Cotton Programme BRIEFING CONTENTS

Introduction...... 4 Where we’ve worked ...... 6 Traidcraft’s history in cotton..... 7 Context...... 8 Programme approach...... 10 Learning & questions...... 18

Traidcraft Exchange Traidcraft Exchange is an international development NGO that uses the power of trade to bring about lasting solutions For three consecutive years, all our group to poverty. Working with partners, we members religiously attended training implement development programmes sessions related with sustainable farming in Africa and South Asia, work directly and SHG operations. We learnt about with businesses to improve their supply preparation of liquid manure, pre-mid-post chains, and campaign in the UK for harvest management of cotton and food justice in international trade. crops, preparation of vermi-compost and Traidcraft Exchange’s ‘Programme different methods of organic composting, Briefings’ aim to document the and organic methods and practices that approaches, impact and learning reduced costs on chemical fertilisers and achieved by our work within a specific pesticides, improved soil fertility and sector. The focus of this Programme enhanced overall productivity of land. Briefing is cotton. We hope that They also trained us in SHG management, documenting and publishing our work functioning, bookkeeping and up gradation in this way will stimulate discussion with of skills of group members.” others, generating improvements to Kamilini, a cotton farmer and SHG secretary, programming and new collaborations Kalahandi district, Odisha that extend and deepen impact.

Cotton harvesting. Credit: TX

2 Cotton Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange Cotton Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange 3 Introduction to Smallholder cotton Labourers COTTON Simplified producers cotton COTTON supply Traders chain Ginners LINT

Spinners

YARN

Cotton in flower Credit: TX Weavers/Knitters Dyeing/Printing/Finishing CLOTH CLOTH otton is the world’s oldest commercial crop and While cotton seeds are used as oilseeds, cotton is mainly Cone of the textile industry’s most important grown for its fibres, known as lint. After cotton is harvested, fibres, accounting for almost 40% of global textile ginneries separate lint from seeds and waste, dry the lint, W’sale/Retail Cut-make-trim manufacturers production. The cotton industry is worth over then compress it into bales. Spinning mills process lint into Tailors US$50 billion annually, and harvests 25-26 million yarn, which is then woven or knitted into cloth. Printing or metric tonnes of cotton each year. dying adds colour and pattern. Finished textile products are CLOTHING CLOTHING Cotton production provides income and produced by ‘cut-make-trim’ manufacturing and tailoring. employment for around 100 million rural India, China and the USA dominate world cotton households, 90% of which are in developing production, but significant volumes of lint are produced Consumers countries. An additional 250 million people are in central Asia, and East and West Africa, providing vital employed in connected services, such as farm incomes for poor households. World cotton prices can labour, transportation, ginning, baling and storage. be volatile and sensitive to external shocks. In March Many smallholder cotton farmers struggle to make a of trade; poor working conditions including the use Cotton is grown in more than 100 countries, on 2020 for example, cotton futures prices hit a 10-year low decent living, including in leading producer countries of child and forced labour in some contexts; limited about 2.5% of the world’s arable land, making it as governments enforced lockdowns to curb the spread like India and China. Challenges include: low prices availability of high quality seeds, and the dominance one of the most significant crops in terms of land- of Covid-19. Overall, in recent decades cotton has faced for seed cotton; dependence on chemical intensive of GM seeds in India particularly. These challenges are use after food grains and soybeans. Smallholder increased competition from synthetic fibres, resulting in agriculture with associated impacts on human health exacerbated by underlying socio-economic inequalities production is increasingly important to world a downward trend in cotton prices. Generous subsidies and declining soil fertility; increasing pressure on especially gender inequalities, and by the destabilising cotton supply – 90% of cotton farmers cultivate on for cotton farmers in rich countries add to the downward water sources; low levels of producer organisation and effects of the climate crisis. less than 2 hectares of land. pressure on prices. therefore weak capacity to negotiate for fairer terms

4 Cotton Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange Cotton Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange 5 Many seed and pesticide companies have deceived the farmers by making tall promises. Most of the farmers have made huge investments on seed and fertilisers by borrowing money from landlords and failed to return them as the crop has failed. […] Yearly investments on chemical fertilisers and pesticides have made the land infertile; we could observe this with dropping of yields year after year.” Gualu, a cotton farmer from Khalahandi district, Odisha Traidcraft’s Cotton and Gender HISTORY IN COTTON Women play a critical role in smallholder cotton low levels of representation and participation in production, but this is seldom acknowledged or collective organisations; disproportionate health Traidcraft Exchange (TX) is the sister organisation over 2,500 cotton farmers in what is now Kitui County fairly rewarded. Women work in cotton planting, risks from agrochemical use; lack of coverage by of Traidcraft Plc, one of the UK’s leading Fair Trade in Kenya. The programme complements Traidcraft field management and harvesting. Women are also national labour legislation. Women’s wages vary companies. Traidcraft Plc was established in 1979. Its Exchange programmes in the handcrafted textiles expected to lead the critical, but usually overlooked across and between countries, but generally women early product ranges included cotton textiles, and in sector and across south Asia’s jute sector. activity of catering for farmers and labourers. Across are paid less than men – around 90% of the average the 1980s it launched a cotton clothing range. The The programme has been implemented in partnership smallholder dominated countries, women working male wage. Gender inequalities intersect with other practical experience within the wider Traidcraft family with Agrocel Industries, Vericott, Social Educational in cotton face a broadly consistent set of problems. vectors of social exclusion, including caste-based of working with and developing textiles supply chains, & Vocational Association, Navnirman Trust, Forum These include: lack of property entitlement; weak and Adivasi discrimination in south Asia. as well as the challenges faced by cotton’s primary for Integrated Development, Chetna Organic Farmers access to credit; lack of decision-making power; producers as outlined above, informed Traidcraft Association, Business Innovations Supporting the Exchange’s decision to develop a cotton programme in Eradication of Poverty, and Kitui Ginnery. It has been the early 2000s. generously supported by various project grants, Cotton, the environment and the climate crisis To date the programme has worked directly with over including from DFID (now FCDO), Comic Relief, the Big 6,600 cotton farmers and labourers across the Indian Lottery Foundation, and various trusts, foundations and Cotton is widely grown using chemical intensive and that the bollworm pest (which the genetic states of Gujarat, Karnataka and Odisha, and with individuals. agriculture. Studies report that globally cotton modification is intended to address) is developing accounts for 16% of all insecticide use and almost resistance – offsetting any benefit to producers in 7% of all herbicide use. Combined with the terms of reduced pesticide-use and lower costs. extensive use of chemical fertilisers, this results In addition, there are legitimate concerns around 2001 2005 2008 2012 2015 2016 in chemical run-off, leading to the contamination seed sovereignty and the privatization of natural of water sources. Chemical intensive methods capital; producers cultivating GM cotton are TX and TX and partners TX and partners TX publishes TX and TX establishes also exhaust soils, reducing their fertility over the required to purchase new seed every season. In partners work with a expand Seeds of partners a subsidiary long-term, as well as their capacity to regenerate India specifically, the dominance of Bt cotton means initiate cotton major retailer programme Success expand consulting and to absorb CO2. Whilst cotton can be cultivated producers wishing to cultivate non-GM cotton find programme to launch to work with policy paper programme company, Traidcraft in arid and semi-arid areas, it is often grown using it increasingly difficult to access seed. with Fairtrade cotton producers on cotton to work Services India which producers in certified cotton and labourers seed security. with cotton provides services to inefficient water-intensive methods which deplete Partly in response to environmental concerns Gujarat, India. products on UK in Karnataka, producers in other organisations local water-sources. Genetically modified cotton around cotton production, various sustainability high street. and with cotton Odisha. including in cotton. (‘Bt cotton’) has been widely promoted as a solution standards and certification schemes have been producers in to the heavy pesticide use of conventional cotton introduced. Against the backdrop of these Kenya. production. Today GM cotton accounts for nearly controversies and initiatives is the accelerating two thirds of global production, reaching 90% climate crisis which is making rainfall patterns in India. The technology remains controversial. and seasonal temperature variations more Some studies have indicated that Bt cotton unpredictable, acerbating water-stress, and has increased vulnerability to secondary pests reducing yields in some areas.

6 Cotton Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange Cotton Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange 7 Though they knew about these [agricultural] practices, it was not structured knowledge. We consolidated all this knowledge and packaged them systematically. […] I was realizing that families and women themselves did not acknowledge their identity as farmers. Though they do most of the work in the fields, their needs and contributions are largely ignored.” CONTEXTWHERE we’ve worked Kaushalya, cotton farmer and Farmer Producer Company President, Rayagada district, Odisha

Photo: Cotton fields, Odisha. Credit: TX Photo: Cotton ginning at Kitui Phase 1: Ginnery. Credit: TX Gujarat, Kutch and Surendranagar districts 1595 cotton farmers

Gujarat INDIA Odisha Photo: Cotton farmer and Phase 3: Odisha, Kalahandi family, Odisha. and Rayagada districts Credit: TX Photo: Cotton INTRODUCTION TO KENYA Karnataka unloading at Kitui The cotton-to-garment value chain was once a key cotton farmers, Ginnery. Credit: TX 4000 contributor to Kenya’s foreign exchange earnings and critical INTRODUCTION TO INDIA to rural livelihoods. However, since liberalization in 1991, including 2497 women cotton production has suffered. Since 2003 the government India is the world’s largest producer of cotton. It has has expressed a commitment to reviving the declining cotton the largest area of land under cotton cultivation, and sector. Its “Big Four Agenda” includes a target to reach 15% is the second largest consumer of cotton in terms of of GDP from manufacturing by 2022, and cotton has been spinning mill use. However, Indian cotton yields lag KENYA Phase 2: significantly behind other countries. Across India identified as a key potential driver in the turn-around of Karnataka, Raichur district the collapsed textile industry. Cotton in Kenya is grown by there are around 5.8 million cotton farmers, and an additional 40-50 million people are employed around 140,000 smallholder farmers. farmers, including women 407 13 in related activities such as cotton processing and trade. The land holdings of Indian cotton farmers are labourers, including women Kitui County, Kitui and Mwingi District 697 476 predominantly small, with 85% of them less than 2 (under previous administrative system) hectares. Gujarat, Karnataka and Odisha are amongst the country’s major cotton producing states. 2590 farmers

8 Climate Resiliant Agriculture Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange 8 Cotton Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange Cotton Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange 9 Being part of an SHG has not only helped me with inputs in farming but has also given me some discipline in my life. Now I keep a track on my income and expenditure thanks to the training and exposure that I received.” PROGRAMME Thikkayya, a cotton farmer in Raichur district, Karnataka APPROACH Key elements of the Programme Approach The overall aim of Traidcraft Exchange’s cotton on sustainable, climate resilient production practices, Developing producer organisations programme is the economic empowerment of small- as well as women’s empowerment through increasing scale cotton farmers and labourers. This includes a focus women’s visibility, voice, skills and access to resources. Collective working through formation and strengthening of producer organisations has evolved to provide the foundation of the programme approach. Collective working builds social capital. Key Elements of the It enables small-scale producers to: access training and support, strengthen their voice, achieve Programme Approach economies of scale, and improve negotiating power. The programme has facilitated the formation of producer groups at the village level, SUSTAINABLE, and their federation under tiered associations, CLIMATE RESILIENT co-ops or producer companies. Through training PRODUCTION and mentoring, Traidcraft Exchange supports these institutions to be independent, well-run, Developing democratically governed, financially sustainable Credit: TX PRODUCER and business orientated. ACCESS TO ORGANISATIONS BUILDING Links to higher- LOCAL SERVICES BETTER value markets & INPUTS BUSINESSES Achievements • In Odisha, 4000 farmers were supported to Phase 1 of the cotton work in Gujarat did not include organise into 322 SHGs. These were federated a strong focus on building independent producer at the block level under 4 registered ‘Farmer PROMOTING & SUPPORTING organisations, this emerged in phase 2 in Karnataka. Producer Companies’. WOMEN’S EMPOWERMENT THROUGH: • In Karnataka, 407 farmers (including 13 women) • In Kenya, 2590 farmers were supported to Gender sensitisation training and 697 labourers (476 women) were supported to organise into 70 farmers groups. Mentoring women leaders organise into 24 and 46 Self-help Groups (SHGs) In all three contexts, groups were supported with Drudgery reduction respectively. A district-level Producers Executive training on governance, organisation, leadership, Board was established representing both farmer and negotiation skills for developing links with and labourer groups. relevant local services.

10 Cotton Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange Cotton Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange 11 Earlier, I focused only on household work and provided basic support to my husband in agriculture. I did not do much work apart from these responsibilities. Over time, I was lucky enough to get opportunities to understand more about the vast subject of agriculture which helped me become more knowledgeable and in the process, get more respect. My husband was supportive of me though I faced resistance from my mother-in-law initially.” Koushlaya, a cotton farmer and Chairperson of a Farmer Producer Company in Rayagada district, Odisha

Key elements of the Programme Approach cont.

Promoting and Sustainable, supporting women’s Achievements climate resilient Achievements empowerment This aspect has been most fully integrated in Phase 3 in production • In Gujarat, 1595 cotton farmers were supported to adopt Odisha, where the programme has contributed to the organic cultivation. After an initial year of reduced yields, Women’s empowerment has emerged as a The programme has supported increased recognition and visibility of women as cotton overall yield increased by about 16% on average compared central objective of the programme. Based upon producers with the skills and knowledge farmers. to pre-organic. 78% of farmers surveyed reported reduced context specific understanding of the roles to take-up sustainable, climate resilient occurrence of crop disease and pests. Surveyed farmers • Women have taken-up leadership positions within played by women, their needs, opportunities and agriculture. These practices help improve also cited: improved soil quality (65%); better price (29%); SHGs. At the three mixed-gender Farmer Producer constraints, the latest phase of the programme has soil health, improve water efficiency, greater market access (37%). worked to ensure that women, Companies (FPCs)supported by the programme, reduce dependence on chemical inputs, • In Karnataka, 407 farmers were supported to adopt two of the three executive committee positions are and promote the use of eco-system • Are recognised for the critical roles they play organic cultivation. After three years, farmers were positive held by women. Members of the fourth FPC are services. At the same time, the practices • Gain access to greater economic resources about the transition, reporting: reduced costs, reduced exclusively women, so all leadership positions are help increase productivity, reduce costs, and opportunities indebtedness, improved health and improved soils. held by women. and improve product quality. In India • Derive greater and fairer returns from work • As a result of gender sensitisation training women the programme has promoted organic • In Odisha, 4000 farmers were supported to adopt organic and enterprise report increased influence over how household agroecological production; in Kenya cultivation. After 4 years, over 2,800 farmers were • Have greater power in deciding how rewards incomes are spent. In some cases, women report the focus has been on good agricultural practicing multi-cropping with nutritious intercrops, from their efforts are used increased confidence to challenge men over practices. In both contexts, the improving food security. Crop diversification and • Have greater voice in shaping working and alcohol-use and domestic violence. promotion of climate resilient practices agroecological practices were found to improve soil quality. After 4 years, 3577 farming families had achieved at least a living environments • 1896 women farmers are benefiting from has enabled producers to adapt to the 45% increase in farm productivity. This includes working with men to adopt more ‘drudgery reduction tools’ – simple equipments changing climate. gender-equitable attitudes and behaviour. More which significantly lighten workloads and increase • In Kenya farmers were supported to adopt good agricultural information about this core element of the productivity. These include: pushable water carriers, practices. Green gram were introduced as a drought broader TX approach can be found here. lighter sprayers, rotary weeders, hand propelled resistant intercrop with strong market demand. Acreage winnower fans. under cotton cultivation increased: from an average of 1.6 acres/farmer to a 2.8 acres/farmer over three years. • Women farmers also benefit from increased access At project end, independent evaluators found a shift in to finance and control over finance.2230 women perception in the target areas regarding the importance of have been supported to open bank accounts in their cotton as a sustainable source of income in drought-prone name; payment for cotton is made directly to these areas. accounts. In Kenya, gender mainstreaming supported the take-up of leadership roles by women. After 3 years, in 80% of the 70 farmers groups, at least two out of the six group leader positions were held by women. Pushable water carrier, compost production. Credit: TX

12 Cotton Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange Cotton Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange 13 During the last season I sold cauliflowers worth 15,000 rupees, cabbages for 30,000 rupees, brinjals for 20,000 rupees, tomatoes for 5,000 rupees and leafy vegetables for 5,000 rupees. This season in two days I sold pointed gourd worth 3,000 rupees and leafy vegetables worth 2,000 rupees. Earlier we did not get this kind of income.” Padmabati, a cotton farmer in Rayagada district, Odisha

Key elements of the Programme Approach cont.

Access to local services and inputs Building better businesses Links to higher value Small-scale producers often struggle to access the The programme supported producers to markets services they need from government departments see themselves as business-people and The programme has supported small- and from the private sector. The programme has sought to address their producer institutions as business entities. Training scale producers to develop a market-led orientation. this by strengthening links between existing service providers and and mentoring enabled producers to: develop a fuller In India cotton producers have been supported understanding of the cotton value chain; understand producer organisations. In addition, it has catalysed the development to access higher-value markets, e.g. Fairtrade and key financial parameters such as costs, revenue, profits, of ‘grassroots service providers’ to provide last-mile low-cost services organic certified. In Kenya producers have been investment needs; utilise business negotiation skills; and inputs. These individuals, from within target communities, are supported to develop more direct links with key diversify incomes through alternative livelihood options; players such as ginneries. Producer organisations supported to learn new skills and use these to develop enterprises that and initiate value addition where appropriate. have been mentored to bring economies of scale in serve neighbouring producers. ’Grassroots services’ meet producers’ aggregation, transportation and quality assurance. needs for ‘on the doorstep’ support, and provide new sources of income for service providers. Achievements • In Gujarat, alongside income earned through cotton, Achievements farmers were supported to grow and market • During Phase 1 in Gujarat, TX and partners Achievements beneficial rotational crops, including castor, sesame supported the development of new Fairtrade • In Gujarat farmers were linked to ‘Service Centres’, 3 in Kutch and and pulses. Our partner Agrocel invested in adding Intl standards for contract cotton production. 1 in Surendranagar. These provided training, services and inputs at value to these, including through dehulling, pressing TX and partners worked with a major retail cost price. and milling. brand to develop and launch the first range of • In Karnataka 30 active members of the Producers Executive • In Gujarat labourers benefited from the Fairtrade certified cotton clothing on the UK Board were trained to work as Community Resource Persons ’ strengthened business activities of cotton farmers: high street in 2006. The retailer became one (CRPs) providing advisory services to member farmers and SHGs. daily wages between 1.6 - 2.5 times higher than local of the first companies to provide an advance minimum wages. • In Odisha the CRP advisory model was further developed, with 55 payment to farmers for cotton, enabling CRPs trained. Their support was highly valued by farmers: after 4 • In Karnataka 697 labourers and their SHGs were farmers to buy seed without incurring debt. years, 3740 farming families were regularly accessing services. supported to develop new enterprises, including • In Gujarat and Karnataka, all participating producing compost and bio-pesticides for local • A similar approach was developed in Kenya, with 70 ‘lead farmers have benefited from Fairtrade markets, and animal husbandry. farmers’ and 40 local service providers trained to provide certification and assured market access via service and support to farmers. Lead farmers also managed • In Odisha 3290 farmers were trained in business Agrocel. Fairtrade premiums have enabled demonstration plots which served as a key point of information management and market access. Four cotton farmer local communities to invest in their own dissemination. co-ops were supported to transition into registered priorities, including vocational training ‘Farmer Producer Companies’. After 4 years, 326 for women, forestry and horticultural • In all contexts farmers were supported to develop their own women had set-up their own enterprises. plantations, and drinking water facilities at inputs such as compost, liquid fertilisers and bio-pesticides (in local schools. the case of organic production). In Odisha particularly this was • In Kenya, farmers were supported to produce and cited by farmers as a source of pride, enabling independence market green gram as a drought resistant intercrop. • In Odisha cotton farmers benefit from from unscrupulous local traders. Our partner Kitiui ginnery diversified its activities, assured market via Chetna Organic, as well as including exporting green gram to south Asia. organic and Fairtrade premiums.

14 Cotton Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange Cotton Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange 15 We are happy with the increase in income and have been able to manage our family affairs much better now. We have bought a television, a desert cooler, a new mobile phone, and some jewellery, which would have been difficult to afford earlier.” Surekha, a cotton farmer in Kalahandi district, Odisha

Outcome changes... FINDINGS The assessments showed improvements in average than men, with the exception of the ‘Economic Resources’ Economic domain scores across all six assessed domains, for both domain where the change was slightly larger for men Empowerment men and women. For men, the largest change in domain than women. The domain model was complemented The overall aim of the Traidcraft scores was found in relation to ‘Economic Resources’. with three more general review questions, two of which Exchange cotton programme is the economic For women, the largest change in domain score was in had an economic slant and prompted respondents to empowerment of small-scale cotton producers relation to ‘Social Connections’. These findings fit well reflect on their lives over the last 12 months and changes through developing strong, sustainable cotton value with the programme’s aim of economic empowerment experienced over the last 5 years. Positive changes in chains that are efficient, effective and equitable. and its focus on building strong grassroots producer scores in relation to these questions were also found for both men and women, supporting the positive change The simplified “Inner Wellbeing” model organisations as the bedrock of the approach. Changes in domain scores were consistently larger for women noted in the Economic Resources domain. Achievements adopted by Traidcraft Exchange • In Gujarat, as a result of reduced input costs, increased sales and improved prices, 95% of participating farmers reported an increase Wellbeing Wellbeing domain scores at Baseline (2015) and Endline (2019). in income, by 16% on average.. The increased In addition to economic empowerment, incomes enabled farmers to invest in their the programme has aimed to enhance 5 houses and farms, including in irrigation the wellbeing of small-scale cotton producers. In 2011 systems. Traidcraft Exchange embarked on a collaboration with • In addition in Gujarat, 96% of farmers wellbeing and international development experts from reported improved social status (for the University of Bath. Bath’s ‘Inner Wellbeing’ model 4 2.67 example becoming opinion leaders in their and assessment approach developed through the 3.51 3.56 3.46 3.41 3.48 3.46 Wellbeing and Poverty Pathways project was adapted 3.34 3.38 3.39 communities), 74% reported becoming debt 3.20 3.07 3.08 free, and 86% reported improved health. for use in Traidcraft Exchange programmes. The model 2.99 2.89 specifies seven domains which are fundamental to 3 2.83 • In Karnataka, increased yields, reduced input 2.69 2.74 2.66 2.60 costs and increased prices led to over 60% of people’s sense of wellbeing. The domains provide the 2.56 2.55 2.51 farmers experiencing increased incomes. structure to a self-completed questionnaire process 2.29 that generates quantitative scores on a 5-point scale. For women labourers, incomes increased by 2 26% on average over three years. In addition, Traidcraft Exchange used six of these domains and women reported increased self-confidence assessed scores for samples of 140 participaing cotton 1 and improved access to government schemes. farmers in Odisha in June 2015 and March 2019. • In Odisha, over 3000 farmers reported 1 Economic Agency & Social Physical & Competence Values & increased household incomes as a result of 1 Further info about the model and assessment process can Resources Participation Connections Mental Health & Self Worth Meaning reduced production costs, increased acreage be found in: Spencer et al. (2014) ‘Traidcraft: assessing human under production and improved yields. flourishing’ in White and Abeyasekera (ed) Wellbeing and Quality of Women (2015) Women (2019) Men (2015) Men (2019) Life Assessment, Practical Action Publishing.

16 Cotton Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange Cotton Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange 17 Most of us here are either semi-literate or completely illiterate. Comprehending ideas of groups, functions, loans, interests, and repayments is not easy. It took a lot of effort, in fact desperate attempts by some LEARNING & questions of us to convince women to continue in the group then. Our fundamental purpose was to help that remain women in as many spheres as possible by availing the schemes being promoted Increasing focus on women Beyond cotton by various agencies. Integral to this purpose was also the belief that we need The Traidcraft Exchange cotton programme has Whilst the cotton programme was conceived with a to protect and conserve our ecology, developed an increasing awareness of and proactive value chain development approach, it quickly evolved as we realised that frequent droughts, engagement with the critical roles played by women. into a more integrated farm systems approach. It has sudden cloudbursts and erratic rains were When the programme started, women’s role was supported the take-up of intercrops that enable farmers keeping us entangled in poverty. largely unrecognised and unvalued within the to diversify their income sources, such as castor and Even until a few years earlier, we were cotton sector. Women were not afforded the label sesame in Gujarat, and green gram in Kenya. In food all practicing organic farming by default, “farmer”, in part because men are usually seen as insecure communities such as those in Odisha, the except for the certification part. It was the landholder. In many contexts women rarely programme supported the take-up of nutritious food only in the last couple of decades that we receive any of the income from cotton and have security intercrops that also bring ecosystem services have been made dependent on chemicals little decision-making power. The programme’s such as fixing nitrogen and attracting beneficial insects to grow our crops and on the markets for second phase in Karnataka India, included a focus that feed on cotton pests. Some of these complementary our seeds. So turning into organic and on landless women labourers. It supported them crops also presented new business opportunities fair trade farmers was not so difficult to organise into Self-Help Groups and become for Farmer Producer Companies. This approach has for us. It was just a matter of fine-tuning entrepreneurs – producing and marketing bio- enabled vulnerable small-scale producers to spread some practices. The bigger challenge inputs to farmers. A more extensive assessment risk, which given cotton’s exposure to the vagaries of was to convince and give confidence to of the roles played by women and the challenges the international market as well as risks presented by the farmers that agricultural practices faced informed the design of the third phase in the accelerating climate crisis has been critical to the that evolved naturally over centuries Odisha, India. Here programme highlights include programme’s success. In the Kenyan context this learning responding to climatic and geographical the promotion of ‘drudgery reduction’ technologies has informed the development of the TX climate resilient conditions were safer than short term which address practical gender needs by reducing agriculture programme in arid and semi-arid lands quick fixes recommended by chemical the time and energy expended by women on critical (further info: traidcraftexchange.org/kenya-agriculture- fertiliser, pesticide and seed sellers. tasks such as weeding, spraying and transporting briefing). We needed to trust that our traditional water. Women were also supported to take-up knowledge would not fail us in times of leadership positions in Self-help Groups and Farmer distress.” Producer Companies, and gender sensitisation To certify or not to certify training was extended to challenge male attitudes All three phases of the work in India have included a focus Surya, a cotton farmer in Kalahandi district, Odisha and behaviours. A critical component has been on organic and Fairtrade certification. Indeed, Traidcraft the support to women to open bank accounts and Exchange and partners played a central role in developing the direct payment for cotton into these accounts. and testing new Fairtrade Intl standards for contract Increased access to finance and control of income production of cotton, and worked with a major retailer is reported to have positively impacted the role to launch Fairtrade cotton clothing on the UK high street. of women in household decision-making more The work in Kenya also started with an aim of developing generally. a new Fairtrade cotton supply chain, but this was shelved Suvidha. Credit: TX

18 Cotton Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange Cotton Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange 19 If asked about my future I always see it bright, with lots of hopes and aspirations. In the past, I was solely dependent on my peers, but now I have women from my group, who are also supporting me very much. I share all my feeling with them. They don’t see me as they used to look at me in the past. Now they, not only help me financially, by understanding my problems, but also act as a voice for me in my village community.” Hanumanthamma, a cotton farm labourer from Raichur District, Karnataka

Balancing business and GM Cotton… who decides? development objectives 90% of cotton production in India is now genetically The cotton programme has been developed and modified. Producers pursuing non-GM production, implemented with a range of partners included civil such as those within Fairtrade and organic certified society organisations and business partners, both those chains face an increasing challenge in accessing high- with a more conventional commercial outlook and quality non-GM seed. The programme has responded those balancing commercial and social objectives. This to this by supporting seed development clusters and mix has proved to be a clear asset. Business partners, seed banks within participating communities. For both commercial and more social, recognize the producers outside similar programmes, the sheer Vermicompost importance of investing at the small producer level to dominance of ‘Bt cotton’ raises questions about production, strengthen supply chains, secure supply and improve whether producers even have a choice over which mode Odesha. quality. As the programme has evolved, it has had an of production they pursue. This is a concern not only Credit: TX increasing focus on developing grassroots producer because of the contested success of ‘Bt cotton’, but also organisations – both to enable producers to become in relation to business models that accompany the when the 2008 global financial crisis constrained certification specifically, TX partners’ unwavering efficient supply chain actors, and to help marginalised technology. Producers are at risk of becoming trapped market demand. commitment has proved vital, yet market demand communities develop collective voice and assert their in dependency on small numbers of dealers for the accompanying agri-chemicals required for successful Certification standards more broadly aim to improve remains weak and the optimism of the early years has priorities to a wider range of stakeholders. Developing cultivation, leading to exploitative terms of trade. There the economic, social and environmental impact of lessened. strong producer organisations takes time and requires may be a role for civil society to support and amplify cotton and to meet a growing consumer interest deliberate focus. This focus needs to be maintained the views and voices of small-scale producers on these in sustainable consumption. However, for small- whilst at the same time ensuring supply chain Engaging youth critical issues. In 2019 scale producers, working towards certification is not development objectives are met. the Kenyan government without its challenges. Whilst many of the producers During the internal process of programme review, staff approved the introduction participating in the programme report positive impacts at TX noted that perhaps to date the cotton programme Climate crisis of GM cotton. Traidcraft from organic practices, including improved family has ‘missed a trick’ by not deliberately engaging with Exchange’s ‘Seeds of health and rejuvenated soils, questions remain about youth in a targeted way. In India particularly, outward Climatic shocks have had a profound effect on the Success’ report provides whether non-monetary benefits provide sufficiently migration from rural areas tends to involve young men programme. Severe droughts have affected the work, further details on the strong incentives, especially at times when market who seek employment in the large urban centres, but especially in Kenya and Karnataka. In Kenya specifically importance of access to demand weakens. In the words of one programme often end up in exploitative conditions. Rural to urban however, during the worse drought in 50 years, cotton high quality cotton seeds team member, “for farmers, the ability to increase migration and limited economic opportunities are also proved to be a useful resilience strategy as farmers were and some of the key income is paramount”. Within this, it is important to issues in Kenya. More broadly, there is an increasing still able to harvest some cotton whilst experiencing challenges small-scale acknowledge that conversion to organic often involves trend of youth disengagement from farming which may near total loss of most other crops. The programme farmers face. a reduction in yield during transition years – a difficult have long term implications for agriculture’s viability quickly responded by diversifying its focus to a wider hurdle for poor farming families to manage. It is and for food security. Given that most young people do basket of drought resilient crops. As mentioned above, conceivable that organic conversion may be most likely not own land and tend to focus on short-term financial this informed the development of the climate resilient to succeed among the ‘coping poor’, those who can returns, this may require exploration of innovative agriculture programme and underscores the increasing withstand a short-term income reduction. Innovative approaches that incentivise their engagement in cotton importance of adaptative management. financial instruments may be required to compensate in future phases of the programme. income reductions in these early years. For Fairtrade

20 Cotton Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange Cotton Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange 21 Cotton farmer Premenanda, Odisha. Credit: TX Front cover photo: Cotton farming, India. Credit: TX

This ‘programme briefing’ documents the approach, achievements and learning of the Traidcraft Exchange cotton programme. We hope the briefing will catalyse discussion and debate with other like-minded organisations and individuals. The programme has been implemented in partnership Please get in touch to continue with Agrocel Industries, Vericott, Social Educational & Vocational Association, Navnirman Trust, Forum the conversation. for Integrated Development, Chetna Organic Farmers www.traidcraftexchange.org.uk Association, BISEP and Kitui Ginnery. We thank our www.traidcraftservices.in/ partners for their ongoing hard-work and commitment. [email protected] The programme has been generously supported by project grants from the Big Lottery Fund, Comic @TraidcraftDepthin Relief, the Department for International Development www.linkedin.com/company/traidcraft-exchange (now FCDO), and numerous trusts, foundations and individuals. We would like to thank them all for making Registered charity, no. 1048752 this work possible.

22 Cotton Programme Briefing Traidcraft Exchange