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Teijin Inc. is building a carbon production plant in Greenwood, South Carolina (see page 10).

Dear Readers,

Today, American are more than basic fibers, and fabrics. From highly engineered fabrics that keep our warfighters safe to high-strength carbon fibers that fortify aircraft to advanced medical products that help patients heal, textiles are quietly sustaining and improving everyday life. As companies who innovate and manufacture these amazing products, members of the National Council of Organizations (NCTO) are proud to be part of an that gives people better, healthier and more fulfilling lives.

Our fourth annual edition of TEXTURES will take you on a journey that illustrates American textiles’ contemporary renaissance. You’ll get firsthand perspectives and insights from thought leaders and change makers on the groundbreaking developments, as well as real-life stories that personify the ’s impact on our nation and the globe.

Through the various stories included in this publication, you’ll gain insight into the modern U.S. textile sector and the bright, resilient, talented people who make our industry the global leader in product and quality. People who are creatively reshaping the norm. People who aren’t afraid to take risks. People whose inventive strategies and smart, efficient processes are making the world a greener, smarter, healthier and safer place.

NCTO is pleased to share this inside look into a truly amazing industry. We hope this edition of TEXTURES gives you a deeper appreciation for a great American industry that makes an incredibly important and positive impact on each of our daily lives.

Sincerely,

Marty Moran Augustine D. Tantillo Chairman, NCTO President & CEO, NCTO CEO, Buhler Quality Yarns Corp. (a Samil Co.) TOC6.qxd 2/14/19 10:59 AM Page 3

TABLE OF CONTENTS

04 16 NCTO Committees: Milliken — Where Harnessing Expertise To Build Innovation Is Key A Strong U.S. Textile Industry A new Milliken website helps clients access the depth and breadth of Milliken’s technology trove of 09 innovative, amazing textiles. The Textile Journey Of A Pair Of Pants 18 the tag. Not all imports First are created equal. TSG Finishing enhances feel and functionality of fabrics. 10 Carbon Fibers: 21 18 Of The 21st Century SEWBOTS®: Transforming Textile Industry The Sewn Products Industry is investing $600 million in a SoftWear Automation hopes to On The Cover carbon fiber facility disrupt the traditional sewing model TSG Finishing LLC’s DEFEND in Greenwood, South Carolina. ® and bring apparel manufacturing protective finish adds water- back to the United States — and stain-repellent properties creating jobs in the process. to a variety of fabric types.

Cover image courtesy of 24 TSG Finishing LLC USFibers: Innovative And Sustainable Fiber Solutions COMMUNICATE Made In The USA Send comments and story ideas to With a focus on meeting the stories@ NCTO.org. U.S. textile supply chain’s increasing appetite for recycled CONTACT US and sustainable fiber solutions, For more information about NCTO USFibers eyes future growth. and its mission, contact us at 13 (202) 822-8028 or visit NCTO.org. Static Free? — Ascend’s 6,6 Answer Is ENDUR TEXTURES magazine is owned and published by the Nylon 6,6 producer Ascend 26 National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO). Materials is solving ©2019 National Council of Textile Organizations. The Last Stitch All Rights Reserved. problems with its antistatic, No part of this magazine may be reproduced anti-cling ENDUR by Ascend . Why NCTO matters more than ever. without the written consent of the NCTO. ™ Requests for permission should call (202) 822-8028.

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NCTO COMMITTEES

NCTO COMMITTEES HARNESSING EXPERTISE TO BUILD A STRONG U.S. TEXTILE INDUSTRY

ashington, D.C., is a busy ment its four-council structure. These place. Every day, Congress committees inspire vibrant inter-council Wand dozens of federal enti- exchanges of expertise and ideas that ties are making, implement- enable member companies to better ing and enforcing policies on innumerable understand and influence policies affect- matters that affect U.S. textile jobs and ing everything from consumption trade. While some issues are broad and to government procurement and flamma- easy to understand, others are highly bility standards to customs rules. technical, if not arcane. With technical input from all sectors of The National Council of Textile Organiza- the supply chain, NCTO’s committees can tions (NCTO) is structured into four gov- vet policies even more rigorously than erning councils — Fiber, Yarn, Fabric & NCTO’s councils. By harnessing expertise Home Furnishings, and Industry Support and fostering more robust policy delibera- — to help the U.S. textile supply chain form tions, NCTO’s committee systems helps a consensus and speak with one voice on NCTO’s four councils make better- policy matters affecting the sector. informed decisions, while serving as a unifying force for the U.S. textile industry. When the United States enacts new laws or federal agencies make administrative For more information on how NCTO’s four rule changes, some issues recur so often standing committees benefit the industry or are so complex that NCTO has formed and consumers, check out the following special standing committees to comple- TEXTURES’ profiles.

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NCTO COMMITTEES Government Textiles Committee: ENCOURAGING UNCLE SAM TO BUY “MADE IN THE USA”

preservation and expansion of the Berry one must produce the fiber and/or yarn, Amendment, contracting matters, and liai- weave the fabric, dye and finish the fabric, son with other organizations and govern- and finally cut and sew it before a finished ment contracting agencies. product can be shipped to the troops.”

“As a U.S. Army Ranger, I know when equip- “NCTO wants to make sure upstream suppli- ment fails in action, lives can be endan- ers are making today what the military’s gered,” Pence said. “American-made downstream customers will be needing military textiles and clothing are world- tomorrow; if a key input is out of stock, pro- class. Knowing that gives warfighters duction can be delayed for weeks,” Pence said. added confidence going into a mission. … America’s security depends on our mili- NCTO also coordinated closely with the tary having guaranteed access to high-qual- Department of Defense in organizing ity, innovative textile materials, apparel, Advanced Functional Fabrics of America and personal equipment made at home.” (AFFOA). This Cambridge, Massachusetts, innovation center managed by the Massa- Under the law known as the Berry Amend- chusetts Institute of Technology is tasked As a U.S. Army Ranger, I know ment (10 USC 2533a), most textiles and with developing next-generation textile when equipment fails in action, clothing purchased by the U.S. military are fibers that can harvest energy, facilitate required to contain 100 percent U.S.-made data transmission and more. lives can be endangered. fibers, yarns, and fabrics. Additionally, Nick Pence those textile and clothing goods must be NCTO Government Textiles Committee cut and assembled in the United States. PERFORMANCE Chairman; Director of Materials and Trims, Under Armour In recent years, attempts have been made CHARACTERISTICS during consideration of the annual National Defense Authorization Act (NDAA) to of Military Fabrics he single biggest customer for the weaken sourcing requirements for some U.S. textile and apparel supply products — including textiles, apparel, and chain is the U.S. government. The footwear — covered under the Berry Camouflage Department of Defense (DOD) Amendment. NCTO has strongly opposed T Flame-retardant alone purchases more than 8,000 different efforts to undermine the integrity of Berry textile items for use by the U.S. military and and other “buy American” preference laws. Water-repellent other allied organizations, and this figure rises to more than 31,000 line items when Besides supporting domestic preferences, Ballistic-resistant individual sizes are factored into the item NCTO’s Government Textiles Committee mix. Including DOD purchases, the U.S. works closely with the Defense Logistics Insect-repellent government routinely spends more than $2 Agency, the U.S. Army Natick Soldier Sys- billion annually on textiles and clothing. tems Center, Program Executive Office Odor-masking (PEO) Soldier and other entities to proac- NCTO’s Government Textiles Committee, tively anticipate the services’ future textile Anti-static chaired by Nick Pence, director of Materi- and clothing needs and develop the next Abrasion-resistant als and Trims for Baltimore, Maryland- generation of military textiles. based Under Armour, connects member Wound-treating companies from all points in the U.S. tex- “Still, meeting those needs requires careful tile supply chain. Together, these compa- planning,” Pence said. “For example, if the Load-bearing nies oversee issues related to all facets of services say they require 200,000 ballistic- government procurement, including resistant armor plate vests next year, some-

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NCTO COMMITTEES Upholstery Fabrics Committee: SHOWCASING YOUR STYLE, WHILE KEEPING YOU SAFE

ounging in your favorite recliner? and ensuring that they are reasonable, Sporting a vibrant hue on your liv- effective, realistic and affordable is a large ing room chairs? Curling up with a part of the work of our committee.” Lbook on your favorite sofa? Uphol- stery fabrics not only showcase living The committee also works to help make spaces, they also must withstand the rigors sure fabrics meet consumer expectations, of everyday use. In addition to abrasion which include strength and colorfastness, resistance and repelling water and stains, as well as protection from accidental upholstery fabrics also are made with fire spills such as coffee, ketchup and mus- safety in mind to protect their users. tard. Spill protection is achieved using finishes that repel dirt, water and oily sub- Chaired by Michael Shelton, president and stances, and the latest generation of per- CEO, Valdese Weavers LLC, in Valdese, formance fabric finishes are the result of North Carolina, NCTO’s Upholstery Fabrics numerous technical advancements that Committee oversees all upholstered furni- meet regulatory standards designed to ture flammability issues at federal and state protect health and the environment. levels. It also addresses performance stan- dards, chemical regulations, intellectual The committee also has filed public com- property rights and other matters affecting ments with the United States Trade - the upholstery fabrics industry sector. resentative about imported upholstery fabrics, particularly certain products from Tracking flammability standards “The Upholstery Fabrics Committee has China, that violate copyright laws and and ensuring that they are had a full plate in recent years,” Shelton infringe on intellectual property protec- reasonable, effective, realistic said. “Tracking flammability standards tions in the United States. and affordable is a large part of the work of our committee. Photograph courtesy of Valdese Weavers LLC Michael Shelton NCTO Upholstery Fabrics Committee Chairman; President and CEO, Valdese Weavers

“What sets American upholstery manu- facturers apart is our proven track record of continually producing new fabrics with the most fashionable colors and designs anywhere in the world,” Shelton said. “But if overseas competitors can illegally knock off the product, U.S. man- ufacturers are denied the rewards of their unique styling and design, research and development, disincentivizing domestic investment. That’s why the Upholstery Fabrics Committee has been fighting so hard to make sure U.S. Cus- toms and American courts rigorously enforce intellectual property rights.”

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NCTO COMMITTEES Cotton Committee: INFLUENCING POLICY FROM FARM TO FABRIC The most commonly used natural shirts, bedding and other prod- ucts because it is soft, absorbent, breath- able and does not retain odors.

According to the National Cotton Council of America (NCC), U.S. farmers grew 20.9 million bales of cotton in 2017. domes-

estimated 17.7 million bales, including 3.2 million bales by domestic yarn spinners.

“NCTO’s Cotton Committee brings together cooperatives, brokers, shippers, yarn spinners, and fabric knitters and weavers to oversee all policy matters per- taining to the cotton textile supply chain,” Photograph courtesy of Tricia Downing/Pixbay said Cotton Committee chairman Ander- son D. Warlick, chairman and CEO of Gas- tonia, North Carolina-based Parkdale. ness of cotton-consuming mills, it is Warlick said. both farmers and the domestic textile quality, contamination, manufacturing, supply chain,” Warlick emphasized as trade agreements, and relations with U.S. years, the Farm Bill sets policy impacting he explained the importance of main- Department of Agriculture and cotton the prices of all farm commodities. When- taining productive working relation- organizations like the NCC and the Amer- ever the bill comes up for reauthorization, ships with policymakers in Washington, ican Cotton Shippers Association. NCTO’s Cotton Committee teams with D.C. on cotton issues. NCC to press for common sense provi- sions to ensure there is consistent avail- “When you combine world-class farmers, ability and steady consumption of U.S. cotton, while balancing the interests of cheap, reliable utilities, U.S. cotton yarn cotton manufacturers. spinners can compete with anyone in the world and that’s why NCTO’s Cotton Com- mittee works hard to make sure U.S. pol-

When you combine world-class farmers, a good Farm Bill, efficient looms, and cheap, reliable utilities, U.S. cotton yarn spinners can compete with anyone in the world and that’s why NCTO’s Cotton Committee works hard to make sure U.S. policy reflects that position. Anderson D. Warlick NCTO Cotton Committee Chairman; Chairman and CEO, Parkdale

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NCTO COMMITTEES Regulatory & Standards Committee: HELPING TEXTILE COMPANIES RUN SAFELY & SMOOTHLY

usinesses must comply with a host of regulations and stan- Bdards on everything from health and safety to customs reporting and recordkeeping.

Chaired by Jim Booterbaugh, CEO of Washington, North Carolina-based National Spinning Co. Inc., NCTO’s Regu- latory and Standards Committee works to ensure that U.S. textile companies can run their operations safely and smoothly.

“NCTO members recognize the necessity Photograph courtesy of National Spinning Co. Inc. of regulation, but regulations must be well-defined, quantifiable, realistic and “The need for safety is unquestioned,” safety and health matters, (OSHA) and affordable,” said Booterbaugh. Booterbaugh continued. “The Regulatory motor freight regulations to encourage the & Standards Committee works on behalf safe and reasonable transport of products. “A poorly crafted workplace or environ- of NCTO members to make sure mental regulatory regime can drive entire regulations are written in a common Finally, NCTO also liaises closely with ASTM industrial sectors offshore,” he added. sense way that makes them readily under- International and the American Association standable and realistic to comply with.” of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) With California taking the lead, many to establish test methods for textile abra- states have adopted or are looking at Because most regulatory matters are com- sion, tensile and tearing strength, and wet adopting chemical regulations more strin- plex, the Regulatory and Standards Com- processing methods like water repellency, gent than those of the federal government. mittee works with other trade associations among other performance attributes. to address issues collectively. “A multiplicity of standards creates havoc “In practice, the only way to make sure a when you have a nationally distributed “The best way to get a regulation that bene- product performs in the field the same product,” said Booterbaugh. fits all Americans is to work across industry way it was designed to do on the drawing lines,” Booterbaugh said. “One day you’ll be board is to test it,” Booterbaugh said. working with the and the “While testing can be expensive and time next with a consumer advocacy group.” consuming, it ensures textile companies will be able to market performance bene- Other areas where NCTO tries to coordi- fits to the consumer with confidence nate with others include occupational derived from rigorous scientific data.”

The need for safety is unquestioned. The Regulatory & Standards Committee works on behalf of NCTO members to make sure regulations are written in a common sense way that makes them readily understandable and realistic to comply with. Jim Booterbaugh NCTO Regulatory and Standards Committee Chairman; CEO, National Spinning Co., Inc.

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WNO RO RM G A IS D R E E INTO E AD YA B M R I S N F R E LDAT B SO RE I TA F TS I N L A 1 P 2 5

OVENINTO W FA N B R R A I Y C 3

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THE TEXTILE JOURNEY OF A PAIR OF PANTS CHECK THE TAG. NOT ALL IMPORTS ARE CREATED EQUAL.

FIBER IS GROWN OR MADE 1 Cotton, and other fibers are grown and produced in the U.S.

FIBERS MADE INTO YARN 2 Fibers are turned into yarn at manufacturing facilities across the U.S.

YARN WOVEN INTO FABRIC 3 Yarn then is woven or knit into fabric in U.S. facilities.

FABRIC SEWN INTO PANTS 4 U.S. fabric is exported to Central America and Mexico where it is sewn into pants and then shipped back to the U.S. with the “Made In” tag from that country.

FABRIC SOLD AT 5 From U.S. coast to coast, pants are purchased at retail. Placement.qxd 2/14/19 8:23 AM Page 1

INVESTMENT

State-of-the-art, man-made carbon fibers possess a variety of properties, but are especially prized for their high strength and low weight.

CARBON FIBERS: DIAMONDS OF THE 21ST CENTURY TEXTILE INDUSTRY

Teijin is investing $600 million in a carbon fiber manufacturing facility in Greenwood, South Carolina.

he U.S. textile industry is inno- President and CEO Auggie Tantillo. of properties, but are especially prized for vative and resilient. It has perse- “Today, the reverse is true. The United their high strength and low weight. In fact, T vered through economic States has become a popular destination carbon fiber is 10 times stronger than , downturns, changing global for large scale textile investment on the which makes it an ideal mate- market conditions and offshore pressures. part of foreign companies, and in many rial to replace metals in high-tech applica- The industry, as one of the most signifi- cases from Asian companies.” tions. Some of the most common uses of cant sectors of the U.S. manufacturing carbon fiber today include airplane and base, fuels the economy, sustains commu- One such foreign company investing in automobile components, where reduced nities and supports some 1.5 million jobs the American textile industry is Tokyo- weight and high strength can translate into across the United States. based Teijin Limited — a leading global fuel savings. Other applications include technology-driven company operating in wind turbine blades, pressure vessels, med- From 2006 to 2016, the U.S. textile indus- the areas of advanced fibers, and ical devices bicycle frames and tennis rac- try invested $20 billion in new plants and films, composites, healthcare and IT busi- quets (see box on page 12). In theory, the equipment, with $2.4 billion invested in nesses. Teijin Carbon Fibers Inc. (TCF), a possibilities for carbon fiber are limited 2016 alone. In recent years, U.S. manufac- wholly-owned subsidiary of Teijin only by the imagination. turers have opened new facilities through- Limited, recently broke ground on a new out the textile production chain. But $600 million carbon fiber facility in Carbon fibers can be manufactured using American and its Greenwood, South Carolina. a variety of starting materials. Teijin uses highly efficient supply chain — one long a specifically engineered high-quality associated with quality and performance CARBON FIBER — AN ADVANCED polyacrylonitrile (PAN) as a precursor — is also attracting foreign investment. MATERIAL in its Tenax® carbon fiber production process. According to the company, Tenax “Not so long ago, headlines were replete Carbon is a very versatile element that can fibers consist of 1,000 to 48,000 filaments with news of textile and apparel manufac- exist in a variety of natural forms from each featuring a micro turers offshoring their production,” said graphite to diamonds. State-of-the-art, structure. The small diameter — between National Council of Textile Organizations man-made carbon fibers possess a variety 5 and 7 micrometers — of these carbon

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INVESTMENT

Carbon fiber demand is global, and we have been eager to have a plant in the United States for many years. Shukei “Daniel” Inui Teijin Group Corporate Officer, General Manager, Carbon Fibers Business Unit

fibers makes them flexible enough to be of demand from the aerospace and auto- processed using traditional textile manu- motive industries, as well as Teijin’s desire facturing methods such as , weav- to manufacture carbon globally. ing or braiding. When combined with a resin, carbon fibers can be turned into “There is demand for carbon fiber here in composite materials. the United States,” said Shukei “Daniel” Inui, Teijin Group corporate officer, and “Carbon fiber is a next-generation fiber,” general manager, Carbon Fibers Business said Wayne Trotter, director of government Unit at Teijin Limited. “We have a carbon relations, Teijin Holdings USA Inc. “We have fiber plant in Japan, and also in Europe only scratched the surface with the applica- based in Germany, but [we] were missing tions and we see endless possibilities. Every capacity in the United States. Carbon ness. Not only with the incentives and the industry I can think of is going to benefit fiber demand is global, and we have been infrastructure, but also with support of from the textile composites industry. It’s eager to have a plant in the United States the people, we decided on South Car- very interesting and very dynamic.” for many years.” olina,” Inui said.

SIGNIFICANT INVESTMENT PUTS TCF Teijin considered several locations for its The $600 million investment will occur ON HIGH-TECH GROWTH PATH U.S.-based carbon fiber plant, but ulti- in stages. By the end of the fiscal year mately decided on Greenwood, South 2020, one carbon production line will be Teijin’s decision to invest in carbon manu- Carolina. “People here in South Carolina in operation and the facility will employ facturing in the United States was a result always are very supportive of our busi- approximately 70 people. TCF will

Teijin executives and local dignitaries held a ground breaking ceremony to celebrate the $600 million carbon fiber plant investment in Greenwood, South Carolina.

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CARBON FIBER is used in a myriad of products today with yet more still to be discovered. Here are just some of the products that can benefit from the use of carbon fibers.

AERONAUTICS & AEROSPACE PARTS including fuselage SPORTS & LEISURE ITEMS including bicycle frames, fishing 1 panels, wings and engine blades for commercial 5 rods, skis, surfboards, golf clubs, baseball bats, tennis aircraft, military planes, helicopters and unmanned racquets, shoes, protective headgear, musical instruments, aerial vehicles and protective cases for laptops and smartphones

HIGH-END AUTOMOBILE COMPONENTS such as body parts, CONSTRUCTION PRODUCTS including and asphalt 2 wheel rims, seat shells, door sills, braking discs and 6 reinforcement, as well as rebar protective structures

MEDICAL APPLICATIONS including x-ray and magnetic INDUSTRIAL APPLICATIONS including robotic arms and 7 resonance imaging equipment, implantable devices, 3 high-precision engineering parts surgical implements, and medical aids like artificial limbs and braces, wheelchairs and access ramps

RENEWABLE ENERGY APPLICATIONS such as wind 4 turbine blades and rotors, solar panel frames, fuel cells MARINE PRODUCTS including masts, sail cloth, hulls, drive and batteries, and natural gas pressure vessels 8 shafts and propellers

import its precursor material, PAN, from grades of fiber used by other industries of their craft, their workmanship. That’s Japan initially, but may invest in equip- and expand sales to other markets. something we were looking for as well, ment to produce PAN in Greenwood, if and we saw that in the rich heritage, the the demand is there. By 2030, the com- “I think the United States’ demand for textile heritage that exists here in this pany hopes to have several carbon fiber carbon fiber increases more and mainly part of the country.” production lines running with 220 asso- for aerospace and automotive, so we ciates in place. have to follow this demand,” Inui said. Inui added: “As a supplier, we have been “But we are not limited to just these expecting new applications for carbon “We have enough land so it’s not neces- applications, and will manufacture for fiber for many years, and we want to cre- sary to limit to the three lines,” said Inui. other industries including pressure ves- ate new applications and new demand “If necessary we can invest more.” sels, wind energy and any other applica- with our customers. While it’s very diffi- tions we are open to also.” cult, together with our customers, we can Different grades of carbon fiber can be develop these new applications. Our cus- manufactured depending on the end use THE FUTURE OF CARBON FIBER tomers and partnerships are very impor- and required properties, and the lines at tant — people here in South Carolina can TCF will have the flexibility to produce “I see synergies between the carbon fiber support us, and we will grow together various grades of fiber depending on industry and the traditional textile indus- here in the United States.” demand. Capacity at the plant will be try,” Trotter commented. “Carbon fiber is determined by the product mix because of in fact the next-generation fiber, and I Teijin’s goal is to become a leader in the process variations for the different grades. think there are multitudes of yet-to-be- composites industry in the United States Teijin hopes to have its highest-grade fiber identified opportunities to work in con- according to Inui. The company’s com- qualified by the aerospace industry, but junction with textile companies mitment and $600 million investment this process can take several years. In the particularly here in the Southeast. The undoubtedly set them on a path to meantime, TCF will focus on producing folks in the textile industry are very proud achieve this goal.

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FIBER FORMATION

Ascend Performance Materials’ Fiber Center of Excellence in Greenwood, South Carolina, produces nylon 6,6 staple-fiber.

STATIC FREE? — ASCEND’S ENDURNYLON 6,6 ANSWER IS

ylon is a material that plays a pounds as well as specialty and interme- significant role in daily life, but diate chemicals used throughout the poly- Nits performance attributes and mer value chain. In recent years, the extensive applications are company has expanded facilities includ- rarely recognized by the average con- ing capacity increases across its interme- sumer. This man-made , first syn- diate chemicals and portfolio. thesized in 1937, is formed when specific Today, Ascend has sales and technology chemical building blocks called offices throughout the world and six man- Nylon 6,6 producer monomers are brought together to create ufacturing facilities and a technology cen- long chains known as polymers. Because ter in the United States. Globally, the Ascend Performance of its versatility, nylon has traditionally company employs approximately 3,500 been used to create products ranging associates and contractors. In addition, Materials is solving from women’s stockings to Army para- Ascend has announced a $35.2 million problems with its chutes and cording. investment in Greenwood County, South Carolina, that will create 30 new jobs. antistatic, anti-cling Nylon 6,6 is just one type of polymer used ENDUR by Ascend™ yarn. in textiles — other common textile poly- ADDING PERFORMANCE BEYOND mers include nylon 6, polyester, and THE BASIC polypropylene. Today, the uses for nylon 6,6 have grown to include all types of Amongst Ascend’s line of products is apparel, tires, automotive airbags and car- ENDUR by Ascend™, a fiber product dif- pet, among other applications. ferentiated by its unique antistatic tech- nology. It is a filament- or staple-fiber Houston-based Ascend Performance product that can be blended with other Materials is a privately owned, fully verti- fibers and yarns to provide fabrics with cal nylon 6,6 producer, with roots going permanent antistatic functionality back more than 60 years. Ascend special- because it is neither a garment treatment izes in nylon 6,6 resins, fibers and com- nor a coating that can wear off over time.

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FIBER FORMATION

These important properties help design- ENDUR by Ascend™ is a unique anti-static ers improve yoga and performance gear, fiber technology that adds value to yoga loungewear, shapewear, eveningwear, and performance gear, loungewear, childrenswear and medical garments. For and childrenswear among other example, Endur can help reduce bother- garments. The company offers some and potentially harmful qualities in a hangtag program for fabrics such as clinginess and lint and customers using allergenic debris accumulation, while pro- the fiber. viding comfort in chemical-free, next-to- skin applications.

Futhermore, as a unique bicompo- nent fiber, Endur offers perma- nent value. As Schoots explained: “Because of the high temperature at which nylon 6,6 is melted and combined with the carbon, the fiber becomes very abrasion resistant and the carbon does not break off or flake away from the fiber, which is a very important property. In the past people have tried to weave or knit with a yarn that has been coated with carbon at a much The yarn has a bicomponent structure temperature yarn lower temperature featuring one-part nylon 6,6, and one-part extrusion process and the coating conductive carbon. These two compo- to produce a fiber flaked off. If you nents are joined together during the high- that, among other have black specks attributes, eliminates of carbon on the static electricity. machinery and then you run PERMANENT In Endur, the conductive white fabric behind carbon component of the it, you can imagine FUNCTIONALITY fiber grounds and harm- what a problem that is.” In a Fiber lessly moves electricity through the garment, preventing a build- PROOF IN THE TESTING up of static electricity and removing the Endur by Ascend™ is … possibility of an electric shock. To demonstrate that static does not build up in fabrics developed with Endur, “Endur is a speciality fiber product and Ascend employed the American Associa- Static-free the furthest down the value chain that tion of Textile Chemists and Colorists’ Ascend sells,” said Harrie Schoots, (AATCC) Test Method 115 — Electrostatic Cling-free Ascend’s Specialty Fibers Segment Man- Clinging of Fabrics: Fabric-to-Metal Test. ager. “It’s been exciting for me to take the Lint-repellent product out to the brands, retailers and “AATCC’s cling test is a test I think I design folks and explain it to them and pulled out of the basement from the Hair-repellent show them what it can do for their polyester leisure suit days — it tests the apparel products.” static cling of fabrics,” Schoots said. Chemical finish-free “But we also had to show that the static Beyond reducing static within a garment, is not in the fabric, and that’s why our Safe on skin Endur imparts other desired attributes to lab offers the static decay test for cus- a finished product (see box). tomers.”

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Ascend’s static decay test charges a fabric to 5,000 volts, then measures the time it takes for 90 percent of that charge to dis- sipate. “In many cases, fabrics will take more than a minute,” Schoots said. “But in order to show that a material offers static reduction, the time measured has to be less than half a second. Typically, fabrics featuring Endur take 0.01 seconds to reduce the charge. Essentially, if you wear a dress or yoga pants with Endur on a very dry winter day, you would not generate any static electricity when walking or sit- ting for example.” ASCEND: MAKING A DIFFERENCE

Ascend, whose operations are based in Ascend is the United States, has weathered the openly committed storm and resisted moving production to to its employees and other countries. U.S.-based manufactur- is dedicated to a safe, healthy and sustainable workplace. ing has remained profitable for the com- pany, and Ascend has never been more successful than it is today. At the core of this success is Ascend’s open • Volunteers cleaned and repaired 55 commitment to its employees. “The com- homes and served more than 1,000 pany values the communities and individual meals to employees impacted by Hur- employees who are the lifeblood of Ascend,” ricane Harvey in Texas; Schoots said. “Our president and CEO, Phil • Volunteers have built five Habitat for McDivitt, is dedicated to a safe, healthy and Humanity homes on-site at Ascend’s sustainable workplace. Well beyond manu- Chocolate Bayou, Texas; Greenwood, facturing a quality product, his goal is to South Carolina; and Decatur, have no incidents and zero accidents Alabama, facilities; throughout the entire corporation, and he’s • Some 135 college scholarships totaling taken steps to ensure we all know that.” $205,000 have been awarded to team members' children; The company also created the Ascend • Children at Escambia Westgate School Cares Foundation in 2011 after employees in Florida play on a new sensory play- of its Decatur, Alabama, facility were ground that is the foundation’s largest impacted by a tornado. According to the project to date; company: “The Ascend Cares Foundation • Volunteer events at Ascend sites help is about making a difference in the lives of local organizations such as food others. It is led by Ascend employees and banks, animal shelters and schools; supports Ascend families in their time of and The company values the need, provides inspiring opportunities for • A total of 206 families have received community engagement and facilitates financial hardship support. communities and individual community leadership. Funded entirely by employees who are the donations and company match, every dol- Ascend accounts for approximately lifeblood of Ascend. lar donated to the foundation supports one quarter of global nylon 6,6 pro- the work of the foundation.” duction. According to the company, its Harrie Schoots “… vision is to be [a] recognized leader Specialty Fibers Segment Manager, Since its inception in 2011, Ascend in the nylon 6,6 value chain, creating Ascend Performance Materials reports the following tangible accom- new possibilities with nylon 6,6 for plishments made by the foundation: everyone, everywhere, every day.”

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FABRIC FORMATION

Milliken’s Roger Milliken Center — features an Innovation Gallery MILLIKEN showcasing the company’s advanced textile technologies. WHERE INNOVATION IS KEY

A new Milliken website helps clients access the depth and breadth of Milliken’s technology trove of innovative, amazing textiles.

n many ways innovation in the tex- mechanical engineering to find the best IMPROVING ACCESS TO MILLIKEN’S tile industry is synonymous with students of the previous 10 years. This TECHNOLOGIES ISpartanburg, South Carolina-based recruitment effort was at the core of a Milliken & Company. Founded in serious research commitment that con- Through its Performance and Protective 1865, the company’s history in textiles tinues to this day. Textiles division, Milliken serves a range stretches back more than 150 years. of industries including apparel, automo- The Roger Milliken Center (RMC) recently tive and transportation, building and Milliken & Company’s strong culture of celebrated its 60th anniversary. RMC is infrastructure, hospitality, industrial, mili- innovation, which was shaped personally home to the company’s global headquar- tary, interiors, and protective markets. by the late CEO Roger Milliken, began in ters and corporate innovation center — 1945, when the company formally estab- one of the world’s largest privately-held The company’s new website, launched lished its research group. Milliken bet the textile research facilities. under the tagline “Textiles from a Differ- company’s future on continuous product ent Perspective” and located at development — making a corporate com- Today, Milliken operates three divisions — textiles.milliken.com, unifies the diverse mitment to conceptualize and create cut- Performance and Protective Textiles, portfolio of the Performance and Protec- ting edge textiles. To do so, Roger Floor Covering, and Chemicals. With tive Textiles division, showcasing its Milliken personally involved himself in innovation firmly woven into Millken’s breadth of capabilities and highlighting reviewing research and invited preemi- DNA, staying on the forefront of techno- the company’s expertise and next-genera- nent minds in engineering and chemistry logical advances is a priority. When chal- tion products. The website also illustrates to help guide future projects. Milliken lenged to solve a problem, Milliken’s team the successful history of Milliken textiles, also challenged his research associates to of researchers, chemists, engineers and its legacy and ability to collaborate with look for the very best brains in the world. developers work together to create best- customers to solve complex problems. He commissioned his scientists to con- in-class technical solutions, while invest- tact schools that were prominent in ments in innovative technologies ensure “Milliken is synonymous with credibility chemistry, chemical engineering and the company remains cutting-edge. within textiles,” said Jeff Price, president of

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FABRIC FORMATION

are Biosmart® Technology — a patented tal responsibility. Company records also technology engineered to bind chlorine in document its first recycling policy and wash water to the surface of a fabric to the fact that it was reusing packaging and inhibit the growth and spread of bacteria textile materials in its operations in the — and ResQ™ DH — a National Fire Pro- early 1900s. With one of the most ambi- tection Association certified fabric tious environmental policies in the indus- enhanced with moisture wicking proper- try today, sustainability truly is and ties and high breathability to keep fire- always has been an important part of the fighters cool and comfortable. company and everything it does.

“Milliken’s Performance and Protective In addition, Milliken has the honor of Textiles website displays the value of Mil- being named one of the “World’s Most liken front and center,” Price said. “We are Ethical Companies” for 12 years running. enhancing our world through well- The list, published by Ethisphere Maga- thought-out products, crafted to fill a zine, is compiled by the Ethisphere Insti- need and manufactured responsibly.” tute, a leader in defining and advancing the standards of ethical business prac- RESPONSIBLE MANUFACTURING tice. Milliken is one of only 12 companies to receive the honor every year since its Our keen attention to detail and Milliken designs fabrics for performance, inception. unsurpassed quality result in but also takes environmental responsibil- superior textiles that add value ity into consideration intentionally incor- With new tools in hand, Milliken’s diverse to people’s lives. porating sustainable measures from textiles portfolio, built on more than 150- product conception to production. The years of industry experience and award- Jeff Price company continually assesses its net winning research and development, has President, Performance and Protective impacts, seeks greater efficiencies and never been more accessible to customers Textiles Division, Milliken develops new technologies to avoid using looking to solve challenges using innova- harmful materials. Many of Milliken’s tive fabrics. “Our keen attention to detail manufacturing facilities also have and unsurpassed quality result in supe- the Milliken Performance and Protective obtained ISO 14001 certification — the rior textiles that add value to people’s Textiles Division. “Milliken highest global standard for environmen- lives,” Price said. speak for themselves, and this website helps convey our story and fortify our rep- utation in a cohesive online platform.” TAMING COMPLEXITY

Previously, exploring the vast array of tex- tiles available through the division pre- sented challenges because of the sheer number of textiles available. Now, using the new website, customers can navigate through the portfolio by choosing market or by searching key performance charac- teristics to find solutions that best fit their needs. The advanced search page lists the eight markets served by Milliken’s Performance and Protective Textiles divi- sion and 28 key fabric properties. Milliken’s team of researchers, chemists, engineers and developers As an example, if a customer were search- work together to create ing for fabrics with moisture wicking or best-in-class technical solutions. antimicrobial characteristics, 10 search results are returned. Among the results

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TEXTILE FINISHING

DEFEND®, TSG’s protective finish, repels water and stains when applied to a fabric.

FINISHING FIRST TSG Finishing enhances feel and functionality of fabrics.

hether produced using brightness, softness, embossed pattern- knitting, or non- ing, wrinkle resistance, shrinkage control, W woven processes, fabric soil and water repellency, moisture man- most often moves along agement, flame resistance or abrasion the supply chain to be dyed, printed resistance, among others. and/or finished. and printing adds color and pattern to untreated fabric, Hickory, North Carolina-based TSG Fin- transforming it into today’s most popular ishing LLC is an example of a forward- hues or eye-catching designs. thinking finishing company.

Finishing — through either mechanical or Founded in 1901 in Baltimore, Maryland, wet processing methods — adds further by Jacob Levy as “Levy’s International value to a fabric by imparting enhance- Water Shrinking and Drying,” the pri- ments that can improve the look, feel, vately-held company is now run by functionality and performance of a fabric. fourth- and fifth-generation descendants. Finishes can impart properties such as The business first thrived on preshrinking,

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TEXTILE FINISHING

shrinking and softening fabrics under the motto “We expand from shrink- ing.” In the 1920s, Levy opened a facility in TSG regularly uses a basic Philadelphia to be closer to New Eng- tenter frame in creative land’s growing textile business. and innovative ways to supply customers with the exact After World War II, the company devel- finish they are oped a process for foaming latex backings looking for. used in vinyl seat covers. This launched TSG into the upholstery fabrics market and led the company down to High Point, North Carolina, a hub for U.S. furniture manufacturing. Today, TSG’s finishing plants still operate out of Hickory with additional locations in East Conover, North Carolina, as well as executive office space in Pennsylvania.

While finishing wool fabrics for military dress uniforms has been an important part of the company’s business for the past 118 years, TSG’s current mission is to expand its finishing capabilities and offerings. DEFEND® — “YOUR FABRIC + OUR — bring it on. A treatment for a mili- PROTECTION™” tary camouflage product that can only be Upholstery finishing — including woven treated on one side — done.” fabrics for furniture and wallcoverings for TSG’s branded upholstery finish is known residential and contract markets — now as DEFEND®, which the company “I can’t imagine that we would be unable accounts for approximately 60 percent of relaunched in 2017 for its water- and stain- to apply DEFEND to any product,” Rosen- the company’s business. Much of the repellent technology. Still, as a historically stein said. remaining activity is focused on what TSG technical company, incorporating a brand CEO Brian Rosenstein terms “industrial marketing strategy was a new path. “We CUSTOMER-DRIVEN PRODUCTS products,” which includes filtration mate- redefined ourselves and shifted out of our rials, medical products, automotive, comfort zone as we moved into marketing,” TSG has a library of technologies that it crafts, geotextiles, apparel and a variety of Rosenstein said. “Our previous mantra was draws from, but business is often cus- other technical products. we’re the guy behind the guy behind the tomer-driven. guy. But for the most part today, the mar- The company offers a broad range of fin- ket demands a name and a story. You need “On the one hand, we’ve really started to ishing services including coating, fabric to have a brand.” With that in mind, TSG push and market the DEFEND brand, but impregnation, mechanical finishing, toll also trademarked the tagline “Your fabric + people are knocking on our door more coating, engraving, material handling, as Our protection™,” which simplistically, but than ever to solve problems that don’t well as warehousing and distribution. effectively captures what the company involve our core business of woven uphol- Coating and impregnation finishing pro- does and helps to market the brand. stery fabric,” Rosenstein mentioned. vides antimicrobial, flame resistance, water and stain protection, among other DEFEND was originally developed for the The company fields phone calls from cus- treatments. “Being able to protect a fabric woven residential and contract business, tomers — including Fortune 500 compa- from both water- and oil-based stains is but it’s starting to break into other mar- nies — looking for a partner to help them huge across multiple markets,” Rosenstein kets as well, according to Rosenstein. For achieve a certain look or set of properties said. “In addition to upholstery, it’s also big example, producers and the U.S. in a finished fabric. Even in cases where in medical right now. Essential to produc- military have shown interest in DEFEND. production has yet to be attempted, TSG ing medical nonwovens is providing a fab- “What makes DEFEND special is that we approaches each new proposal with a ric that will keep doctors and surgeons can apply it to any fabric,” Rosenstein “not yet,” rather than a “no” attitude. “We protected. But it has to be breathable and said. “There are no limitations. You want have a saying around here that ‘the diffi- have antistatic properties as well. We’re to protect a high ? Fine. High- cult we can do now, the impossible just playing a critical role in that supply chain.” end — no problem. Embroidered takes a little longer,’” Rosenstein said.

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TEXTILE FINISHING

will custom design and build our own or hurricanes and people lose their homes chemical coating systems for a customer. or the roofs, our fiberglass services provide We will stand behind and protect what we durable solutions to people in need,” Rosen- believe is rightfully ours, but we also recog- stein noted. “Business on the filtration side nize the benefit of partnering with both is also increasing because of the wildfires in suppliers and customers. In today’s day California. The air quality out there is really and age, you cannot maintain a solid busi- bad so there is an increased demand for air ness if you don’t value those relationships.” filtration products.”

FUTURE GROWTH Rosenstein sees definite opportunities for TSG in the future. The diverse nature of According to Rosenstein, innovations and the company’s business and involvement staying ahead of design trends are key to in many different markets allows for the remaining successful in the finishing technology crossover and product diversi- industry. “Design trends really push the fication in which TSG finds strength. finishing industry,” Rosenstein men- “We’ve been spread out and diversified tioned. “The latest is this idea of Resimer- over the years, which might lead some to cial, where workspaces are created and say we cannot focus on any particular area Anyone can go out and buy a designed to be more reflective of your liv- to give it the attention it deserves,” Rosen- tenter frame, but it’s what we ing room. We now need to take woven stein said. “But the fact that we were so are able to do with that tenter fabrics that used to be relegated to the diversified and involved in so many mar- frame that sets us apart. part of the home that was seldom used, kets helped us through the recession. fabrics like decorative , and find When one market is down, another one is Brian Rosenstein ways to make them work in heavy traffic up. That diversification, along with our CEO, TSG Finishing LLC workspaces. TSG can definitely help pro- inability to say ‘no,’ now exposes us to long the life of those fabrics using growth areas and sales opportunities.” DEFEND so they don’t have to be replaced TACKLING CHALLENGES WITH every other year. And imagine what that “I think if my great-great-grandfather were INNOVATIVE THINKING could do for the environment?” alive right now, he would be absolutely astonished to see some of the we are According to Rosenstein, “One of the cool Other growing areas of TSG’s business running on those finishing machines,” things about the job is seeing all the differ- include building and filtration products. Rosenstein mused. But Jacob Levy may be ent, highly-innovative things that we are When Mother Nature bears her teeth, the equally surprised to see the company also able to do with our existing equipment.” company is proud to help consumers get staying true to its roots finishing those mili- back on their feet. “When there are tornados tary wool fabrics as it did back in 1901. The existing equipment Rosenstein is referring to is a tenter frame — a piece of equipment for drying fabric while it is stretched and held under tension between THE DEFEND FAMILY two parallel chains — which is central to most textile finishing operations. Options features four finish types built into a tenter frame can differ, but the basic functions of the machine are the same. But according to Rosenstein, what DEFEND DEFEND+ can be done using that machine both a high-performance water incorporates microbe before the fabric enters the machine and and stain repellent that offers prevention and odor after it comes out is something that TSG protection against both control. has excelled at over recent decades. water- and oil-based stains. DEFEND-FREE “Our company is built on intellectual prop- DEFEND-A a non-fluorinated erty and strong partnerships,” Rosenstein adds anti-abrasion and water-repellent finish. said. “Anyone can go out and buy a tenter anti-pill properties. frame, but it’s what we are able to do with that tenter frame that sets us apart. We

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SEWN PRODUCTS AUTOMATION

SoftWear Automation offers a family of SEWBOTS® each with a distinct set of skills for optimal production of various product types. SEWBOTS® TRANSFORMING THE SEWN PRODUCTS INDUSTRY

SoftWear Automation hopes to disrupt the traditional nology that tracks stitching at the needle level and helps coordinate precise move- sewing model and bring apparel manufacturing back ment of the fabric. SoftWear Automation to the United States — creating jobs in the process. has engineered a family of Sewbots, each with a distinct set of skills and capabilities to address fabric handling and construc- ithin the textile supply costly process of sewing. Consequently, in tion. Sewn goods worklines are con- chain, fabrics are cut and order to “chase the cheapest needle,” sewn structed using a Sewbot or combination of W turned into finished prod- goods manufacturers have relocated oper- Sewbots to create optimal single-piece ucts during what is known ations to countries paying the lowest workflows for various product types. as the sewn products stage. During this wages to reduce their overhead. stage, materials are transformed into vari- The LOWRY SEWBOT ®, for example, is ous products such as high- However, Atlanta-based SoftWear Automa- based on a gantry system, and is well-suited apparel, home goods, military dress uni- tion Inc. hopes its fully autonomous SEW- for home goods such as bath mats, towels, forms, life-saving medical supplies and BOT® can disrupt the traditional sewing area rugs, pillow covers and mattress cov- airbags, and more. model and revolutionize the $100-billion ers as well as some medical and automotive sewing industry. Formally established in products, and flags and banners. As technology has evolved, the steps in 2012, the machine vision and robotics this cut-and-sew process have become startup launched out of the Georgia Insti- “When you eliminate the sewing problem, increasingly automated. Designers now tute of Technology after seven years of and automate that facet of the production use computer-aided design software to research and development with the Defense chain with our Sewbots, your equation of visualize new products that are then cut Advanced Research Projects Agency what’s possible in regard to manufactur- by computer-controlled technologies (DARPA) and the Walmart Foundation. ing and scale is endless,” said capable of making precision cuts to fab- From the beginning, Sewbots were devel- Palaniswamy “Raj” Rajan, chairman and rics ranging from lightweight , to oped as an advanced, automated sewing CEO, SoftWear Automation. “Everything heavy , to technical air-bag fabrics. technology that could help regrow the else in the fabric construction chain is cut-and-sew industry in the United States. automated. Fabric construction is auto- Still, the one stage in the production mated, yarn making is automated, cutting chain that has continued to evade All Sewbots feature revolutionary Thread- is automated, … Automating the sewing automation is is the labor intensive and vision and Qualisight machine vision tech- process unlocks enormous potential.”

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SEWN PRODUCTS AUTOMATION

In the case of towels, the you look at T-shirts, there are some Lowry Sewbot reduces the time it takes to astounding statistics — U.S. consumers the outer edge of cut pieces to 45 buy 3.5 billion T-shirts each year and 98- seconds, a 285-percent reduction com- percent of them are imported. Theoreti- pared to the 129 seconds that it normally cally, based on our technology and takes a human operator to perform the calculations, with less than 15,000 Sewbots, same task. we can produce the world’s T-shirts. If you want to produce a billion T-shirts in this In addition to greater productivity, the country, we can integrate here and keep $5 Sewbots also offer increased quality. The billion in the economy, which creates jobs Sewbot’s complex machine vision systems — farming jobs, jobs in the textile sector, can place a needle with extreme preci- retail jobs, and distribution jobs. sion, ensuring consistency and quality in every product. “SoftWear Automation has set a public goal to have the capacity to make 100 mil- “Once you deploy the Sewbot, there is no lion T-shirts within the next five years in training,” Rajan said. “There is no ramp up the United States,” Rajan continued. All SEWBOTS® feature with sewing operators getting up to speed. “Within the next 10 years, we’ll have revolutionary machine Quality, reproducibility — it’s all consistent. capacity for 1 billion T-shirts here in the vision technology that Today, in the same factory from operator to United States.” tracks stitching at the operator over different shifts, you get stitch needle level and helps length and stitch density variation. But you SOLVING PROBLEMS: ON-DEMAND, coordinate precise MADE-TO-MEASURE movement of the fabric. have a higher value, more consistent prod- uct with a Sewbot. Those are the benefits of moving to Sewbot production — reliability, SoftWear Automation envisions an industry AMAZING ADVANCES IN consistency, efficiency.” that makes clothing based on demand and PRODUCTIVITY made-to-measure. “Our plans are to go New worklines are also on the horizon, beyond T-shirts to dress shirts, to shorts, The advances in productivity the Sewbots such as a digital T-shirt workline that into jeans — essentially high-volume basics. represent are nothing short of amazing. SoftWear Automation plans to release If you are buying high-volume apparel, we SoftWear Automation reports that for soon. According to the company, one T- want to try and manufacture most of that in most sewing processes, its Lowry Sewbot shirt workline with one operator can sew can increase output by 150 percent. For all 13 steps required to complete a col- example, it takes the Lowry Sewbot just lared shirt in 162 seconds compared to 10 20 seconds to serge the outer edges of a operators on a sewing line, who take 350 bath mat, a process that takes a human seconds to complete the same tasks. That operator 30 seconds to complete. Over an increase in productivity equates to 1,142 eight-hour shift, the Lowry Sewbot can shirts sewn using the automation technol- serge 1,440 mats, compared to a human ogy in an eight-hour shift versus 669 operator’s 960. Furthermore, SoftWear shirts sewed by humans. Automation reports that one operator can supervise up to six Lowry Sewbots at “The big reveal will change everyone’s per- a time. ception of what’s coming,” Rajan said. “If

If you want to produce a billion T-shirts in this country, we can integrate here and keep $5 billion in the economy, which creates jobs — farming jobs, jobs in the textile sector, retail jobs, and distribution jobs. Palaniswamy “Raj” Rajan Chairman and CEO, SoftWear Automation

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the United States because we want to bring SoftWear Automation’s mass personalization with our on demand, LOWRY SEWBOT® made-to-measure initiative.” is well-suited for home goods production. On-demand manufacturing reduces the need for warehouses to maintain high lev- els of inventory for products that a con- sumer may, or may not, want. Made-to-measure business models address issues with standardized sizing by allowing consumers to purchase clothing that fits and works with their body type. Solving fit issues also helps to reduce the likelihood of apparel item returns and increases profitability for retailers.

“There are many advantages for moving to an on-demand, made-to-measure business model,” Rajan said. “But it can only be accomplished if you are local. As a U.S. company, you cannot do on-demand man- ufacturing if you are not making products mized. The United States offers tremen- about new technologies so they can in the United States.” SoftWear Automa- dous opportunities in that respect. progress from lower-wage, less-skilled tion’s SEWLOCAL™ concept combines on jobs into high-paying positions. demand and made-to-measure ideas with a “The United States is the third largest pro- local production location. “Our technology ducer of cotton, so you can make your According to the report, “Humans offers high-speed industrial manufacturing shirt using local resources,” Rajan said. Wanted: Robots Need You,” published by that can be located in the middle of cities, “The United States also has a thriving Milwaukee-based ManpowerGroup close to the consumer” Rajan said. “Or, man-made fiber and yarn industry, so fin- “… more employers than ever — 87 per- manufacturing could be very close to a dis- ished goods do not have to be limited to cent — plan to increase or maintain head- tribution hub so products can be made and cotton products. For SoftWear Automa- count as a result of automation for the shipped to a customer within 48 hours.” tion to focus on the U.S. market and bring third consecutive year.” The company sur- cut-and-sew manufacturing back to the veyed 19,000 employers in 44 countries to The company also sees tremendous textile sector is just a no brainer. When gain a clearer picture on the impact of advantages of moving to hyper-local man- you look at our vision of on demand, automation on job growth. The survey ufacturing when it makes sense. For exam- made-to-measure using a local supply found that companies investing in digital ple, championship team shirts, which chain, this is ground zero as a country.” technologies and shifting tasks to robots must be made immediately available fol- are the companies creating the most jobs. lowing the completion of a championship FUTURE OUTLOOK: ROBOTS game, are printed for both participating NEED HUMANS “The focus on robots eliminating jobs is teams prior to the event. Following the distracting us from the real issue,” said game, the winning team’s shirts are sent to The mental image of robots joining the Jonas Prising, ManpowerGroup chairman retail, while the losing team’s shirts are existing automation technologies used in and CEO. “More and more robots are being destroyed. “But if you are located close to the sewn products industry may suggest added to the workforce, but humans are the population as a manufacturer, you can significant job losses as human employees too. Tech is here to stay and it's our respon- start production as soon as you get the are replaced by robots. But this stark sibility as leaders to become chief learning results and have the shirts delivered on the vision could not be further from the truth. officers and work out how we integrate same day,” Rajan said. Automated production will create new humans with machines. Learning today jobs, especially in high-cost labor mar- cannot be done as it was in the past.” U.S.-FOCUSED BUSINESS MODEL kets, as segments of the industry return to the United States, according to SoftWear “SoftWear Automation is here to trans- For SoftWear Automation, production is Automation. People are needed to pro- form this industry,” Rajan stated. “And we optimized when the distances from raw gram and maintain the machines, and are giving the industry practically no rea- material to factory to consumer are mini- often workers take an interest in learning sons not to join us on this journey.”

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SUSTAINABILITY

USFibers recycles post-industrial and post-consumer into staple fibers for technical and industrial applications, keeping USFIBERS plastic waste out of landfills. INNOVATIVE AND SUSTAINABLE FIBER SOLUTIONS MADE IN THE USA

With a focus on meeting the U.S. textile supply chain’s domestic polyester trading company. Our president and founder, Edward Oh, had increasing appetite for recycled and sustainable fiber the vision to establish distribution in the Southeast, since it was in close proximity solutions, USFibers eyes future growth. to the end users. We installed our first sta- ple fiber capacity in 2002 and have consis- tently expanded, increasing not only our fiber capacity, but improving our product hether for the automotive, to provide innovative and sustainable line to meet more critical applications filtration, nonwoven, furni- fiber solutions — basic building links of and markets as well. USFibers has even W ture, or geotextile industry, the textile supply chain — to all sectors of received an award for excellence by the USFibers is creating recy- the global market. Its commitment to this Governor of South Carolina.” cled polyester fiber to meet the specific vision is best summarized below: needs of clients. Manufacturing in Tren- RECYCLING – THE BEGINNING AND ton, South Carolina, for more than 25 “USFibers is committed to fighting pollu- THE END OF THE SUPPLY CHAIN years, this growing company has tion by tackling the problem from the embraced “Recycling for a better planet” source by recycling plastic before it ends USFibers recycles approximately 135 mil- as part of its “Excellence Through Innova- up in the landfills. It also lowers carbon lion pounds of post-industrial and post- tion” initiative. footprints by helping companies reclaim consumer waste each year. their plastic rather than expend more USFibers is a minority-owned, ISO energy and resources to manufacture the The company has grown through a contin- 9001:2015 registered company that is products from new material.” ued investment in technology and staff. focused on post-consumer and post- “Our products are dependent on both art industrial recycling. It specializes in man- STAYING CLOSE TO THE CUSTOMER and science — art, in the ability to blend ufacturing both recycled and virgin materials to meet product specifications, polyester staple fiber with an emphasis on “USFibers is a company that is constantly and science in developing and enhancing various technical and industrial applica- evolving,” said Ted Oh, vice president of recycling techniques in order to produce a tions. The company is driven by a vision operations. “We began in 1994 as a consistent product with the most positive

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SUSTAINABILITY

USFibers’ products are used in a variety of end markets from filtration and geotextiles to home furnishings and automotive nonwovens.

RECYCLING, TRACEABILITY IN THE States, thus the need for more industrial MAINSTREAM recycling. We feel we offer the most cost- effective solution by providing our cus- We installed our first staple The business model that USFibers has tomers with one stop shopping.” fiber capacity in 2002 and have adopted will continue to contribute to COMMITTED TO RECYCLING FOR A consistently expanded, increasing significant industry trends of sustainabil- ity and environmentally-friendly supply SUSTAINABLE SUPPLY CHAIN not only our fiber capacity, but chain solutions. improving our product line to As a firm committed to fighting pollution meet more critical applications “Recycling has changed tremendously and at its source by recycling plastic before it and markets as well. advanced technically due to multiple poly- ends up in the landfills, USFibers helps mers mixed in the product stream,” Oh clients enable a reduction in the U.S. textile Ted Oh said. “USFibers has focused on new meth- supply chain’s overall carbon footprint. Vice President of Operations, USFibers ods and technology. Because we recycle our own waste streams, sustainability is “The work itself motivates me,” Zagorski critical to our success. Additionally, we mentioned. “Helping our customers environmental impact,” said Steve must be able to trace all of the fibers we improve their bottom line, while minimiz- Zagorski, vice president of new business produce back to the raw material blend ing the impact on our landfills itself is development. “For both these things, it is that we use and each of its components.” very rewarding.” necessary to have a skilled and experienced workforce. This combination of artistic and “The demand for recycled products con- scientific focus enables us to deliver value tinues to increase over time,” Zagorski to our clients because we manufacture our said. “We see growth in all market seg- fiber to meet precise customer require- ments as the value proposition for using ments. We keep inventory to provide just- recycled materials continues to grow. in-time delivery and have more than 100 Consumer recycling efforts have not kept years of combined technical expertise.” pace with that demand in the United

Our products are dependent on both art and science — art, in the ability to blend materials to meet product specifications, and science in developing and enhancing recycling techniques in order to produce a consistent product with the most positive environmental impact. Steve Zagorski Vice President of New Business Development, USFibers

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Marty Moran Chairman, National Council of Textile Organizations, and CEO, Buhler Quality Yarns Corp. (a Samil Spinning Co.)

Why NCTO matters THE LAST STITCH more than ever.

he U.S. textile industry is experiencing an exciting This is not just a single data point to exemplify a trend. Consider and dynamic period. A new policy environment has a recently published McKinsey study1 demonstrating that apparel Tevolved in Washington that places a greater emphasis manufacturing is returning to our hemisphere in a way thought on domestic manufacturing. Combined with a desire impossible only a few short years ago. Retail, in almost all sectors, for shortening production and sourcing cycles, investment in stresses the need for speed-to-market manufacturing processes, U.S. textile production capacity, including foreign direct underscoring the need for optimized and more local supply chains. investment, has been invigorated, as many look to our shores to grow their capacities. A BRAVE NEW WORLD

I have seen this investment story firsthand. The company for Opportunity is potential, and potential is full of as much which I have the privilege of serving as CEO, Buhler Quality uncertainty as it is excitement. Let’s make no mistake — we Yarns, was launched in 1996 by Hermann Bühler AG, a are in uncharted territory. Growth is certainly welcome news, Switzerland-based textile manufacturer originally founded in but prosperity can often be guided by nearsighted intentions, 1812. This 200-plus-year-history added a fresh chapter when causing us to be the architects of unintended consequences it was purchased by Korea-based Samil Spinning. Our new further down the road. ownership represents a sea-change — Samil Spinning has invested in Buhler Quality Yarns for growth — they see clear This is why our industry needs the National Council of Textile benefits and great potential in Western Hemisphere production. Organizations (NCTO) now more than ever. Our core mission,

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OPINION

to “preserve and enable the prosperous future of U.S. textile manufacturing,” is being put to the test under new light. The United States and our partners in the Western Consider the uncertainty of a potential trade war with China. Hemisphere supply chain are making investments The U.S. Government recently placed duties on many products to better serve brands and retailers — and under 301 Authority.2 This position has touched many products in the supply chain, affecting many textile companies — some ultimately, consumers. Strategic business positively, some negatively. Navigating these new constructs, partnerships are important, but they must also and anticipating next moves by both countries, has become a be combined with a strong voice in Washington significant challenge not just for textile companies, but for to ensure that the investments and relationships brands and retailers as well. are allowed to prosper. In addition, the Trump administration has renegotiated the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA), America’s regional free trade agreement with Canada and Mexico. Since THE TASK AT HAND U.S. textile exports to the combined Mexican and Canadian markets totaled nearly $12 billion in 2017, it is critical that any The United States and our partners in the Western Hemisphere transition to the U.S.-Canada-Mexico Agreement (USMCA) be supply chain are making investments to better serve brands smooth for all parties. and retailers — and ultimately, consumers. Strategic business partnerships are important, but they must also be combined HOW THE U.S. FACTORS with a strong voice in Washington to ensure that the investments and relationships are allowed to prosper. This is a strategy Many brands and retailers are now faced with the decision to that must be recognized and championed — and that is either maintain their current sourcing strategies, or adopt — exactly why NCTO exists. or in many cases, create — new strategies that feature Western Hemisphere sourcing. We must ensure that those working to craft trade and procurement policies hear our voice, understand our Trade challenges factor heavily, but it is also critical for brands challenges, foresee those policy decisions that may have and retailers to recognize the need to contract sourcing lead net-negative consequences for our industry, and enact policy times and to avoid supply disruption. engineered to further our interests. Governmental policy makers are not textile supply chain experts who live and David Sasso — vice president of Sales at Buhler Quality Yarns, and breathe this industry. We are, and thus only we, as a united a veteran expert in textile supply chains — has made a very strong industry, can communicate our interests. argument for Western Hemisphere sourcing in two recent articles. In “Responsive Retail”3 and “What TPP’s Death Means for U.S. I am proud to serve this industry as chairman of the NCTO, Apparel Brands and Supply Chain Management in Uncertain Times”4 and proud to work with and on behalf of all of our members. he argues that, because of the trend-based, mercurial nature of the fashion industry, it is important to be able to react quickly. Shotgun The opportunity is ours to seize. It is a truly exciting time to approaches to fashion can cause two major issues. First, when an be in American textiles. item is ordered in large quantity and sales don’t meet expectations, the result is markdowns and lost revenue. A second possible negative outcome is when an item sells in far greater quantities than anticipated. Supply chains dependent on overseas sources, and shipping constraints often lead to stockouts, leaving profits ABOUT THE AUTHOR on the table and customers looking elsewhere for similar styles. NCTO Chairman Marty Moran has been part of U.S. textile manufacturing for more than 26 years. A native of North Carolina, he serves as CEO of Jefferson, A brand’s sourcing strategy that moves at least a portion of its Georgia-based Buhler Quality Yarns Corp. (a Samil Spinning Co.). Buhler sourcing chain to the Western Hemisphere reduces lead times, is known not only for its high-quality yarn spinning, but also for its deep solving both issues. A Western Hemisphere supply chain holds supply chain expertise, placing Moran at the center of this complex and net-positive potential for brands, retailers, and consumers alike. ever-shifting industry.

1. https://www.mckinsey.com/~/media/mckinsey/industries/retail/ our insights/is apparel manufacturing coming home/is-apparel-manufacturing-coming-home.ashx 2. https://www.trade.gov/mas/ian/tradedisputes-enforcement/tg_ian_002100.asp 3. https://www.buhleryarn.com/blog/how-faster-smarter-supply-chains-can-limit-discounts-stockouts/ 4. https://www.buhleryarn.com/blog/tpps-death-means-u-s-apparel-brands-supply-chain-management-uncertain-times/

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