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Textile Raw Materials TEXTILE RAW MATERIALS By: Dr. Sheraz Ahmad & Khurram Shehzad Akhtar Department of Materials & Testing, National Textile University, Faisalabad GOVERNMENT OF PAKISTAN HIGHER EDUCATION COMMISSION H-9, ISLAMABAD i copyrights @ Higher Education Commission Islamabad Lahore Karachi Peshawar Quetta All rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, or transmitted, in any form or by any means – including, but not limited to, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or, otherwise or used for any commercial purpose what so ever without the prior written permission of the publisher and, if publisher considers necessary, formal license agreement with publisher may be executed. Project: “Monograph and Textbook Writing Scheme” aims to develop a culture of writing and to develop authorship cadre among teaching and researcher community of higher education institutions in the country. For information please visit: www.hec.gov.pk HEC – Cataloging in Publication (CIP Data): HEC Cataloguing in Publication Data (CIP). Ahmad, Sheraz. Textile Raw Material. 1. Textile Industry. 2. Textile Material. I. TITTLE. II. 677.028--ddc23. ISBN 978-969-417-199-9 First Edition: 2017 Copies Printed: 500 Published By: Higher Education Commission - Pakistan Disclaimer: The publisher has used its best efforts for this publication through a rigorous system of evaluation and quality standards, but does not assume, and hereby disclaims, any liability to any person for any loss or damage caused by the errors or omissions in this publication, whether ii Dedication This work is dedicated to the authors, and their families for moral support during the writing of this book. iii Blank Page iv Table of Contents Textile Raw Materials……………………………………………………………………………………….i CHAPTER – 1………………………………………………………………………………………………1 1. Introduction………………………………………………………………………………………..1 1.1 Fiber Introduction…………………………………………………………………………………1 1.2 Fiber classification………………………………………………………………………………..1 1.3 Natural fibers……………………………………………………………………………………...2 1.3.1 Natural fibers of vegetable origin………………………………………………………………. 2 1.3.2 Natural fibers of animal origin…………………………………………………………………...3 1.3.3 Natural fibers of mineral origin…………………………………………………………………. 3 1.4 Manmade fibers …………………………………………………………………………………...3 CHAPTER – 2……………………………………………………………………………………………... 5 2. Seed Fibers………………………………………………………………………………………. 5 2.1 Introduction………………………………………………………………………………………..5 2.2 Classification of cotton fiber with respect to staple length………………………………….5 2.3 Harvesting and ginning…………………………………………………………………………..6 2.3.1 Types of ginning…………………………………………………………………………………. 9 2.4 Chemical constituents of cotton fiber………………………………………………………….11 2.5 Growth rings of cotton fibers…………………………………………………………………...11 2.6 Structure of cotton fiber………………………………………………………………………...12 2.7 Cotton grading and various quality parameters…………………………………………….. 13 2.8 Physical properties of cotton fibers…………………………………………………………... 13 2.9 Chemical properties of cotton fibers: ………………………………………………………... 16 2.10 Applications……………………………………………………………………………………...16 CHAPTER – 3……………………………………………………………………………………………. 17 3. Bast Fibers (Flax)………………………………………………………………………………. 17 3.1 Introduction………………………………………………………………………………………17 3.2 The plant of Flax………………………………………………………………………………...17 3.3 Production and Processing of Flax Fiber……………………………………………………. 20 v 3.3.1 Cultivation………………………………………………………………………………………..20 3.3.2 Harvesting process…………………………………………………………………………….. 20 3.3.3 Rippling………………………………………………………………………………………….. 20 3.3.4 Retting…………………………………………………………………………………………… 21 3.3.5 Breaking and scotching………………………………………………………………………... 21 3.3.6 Hackling…………………………………………………………………………………………. 22 3.4 Structure of flax fiber……………………………………………………………………………23 3.5 Physical properties of flax fibers……………………………………………………………… 25 3.6 Chemical properties of flax fiber……………………………………………………………… 26 3.7 Applications……………………………………………………………………………………...26 CHAPTER – 4……………………………………………………………………………………………. 27 4. Bast Fibers (Jute)………………………………………………………………………………. 27 4.1 Introduction……………………………………………………………………………………... 27 4.2 Development of Fiber………………………………………………………………………….. 28 4.3 Fiber Structure………………………………………………………………………………….. 29 4.4 Chemical Constituents in Jute…………………………………………………………………30 4.5 Cultivation of jute………………………………………………………………………………..30 4.6 Harvesting of flax fibers………………………………………………………………………... 31 4.6.1 Fiber Separation………………………………………………………………………………... 31 4.7 Properties of Jute………………………………………………………………………………. 32 4.7.1 Physical Properties…………………………………………………………………………….. 32 4.7.2 Chemical properties……………………………………………………………………………. 33 4.8 Applications…………………………………………………………………………………….. 33 CHAPTER – 5……………………………………………………………………………………………. 35 5. Leaf Fibers……………………………………………………………………………………… 35 5.1 Introduction……………………………………………………………………………………... 35 5.2 Structure of Sisal fibre…………………………………………………………………………. 35 5.3 Production and processing of sisal fiber…………………………………………………….. 35 5.4 Properties of sisal fibers………………………………………………………………………. 36 5.5 Applications…………………………………………………………………………………….. 36 vi CHAPTER – 6……………………………………………………………………………………………. 37 6. Mineral Fiber……………………………………………………………………………………. 37 6.1 Introduction……………………………………………………………………………………... 37 6.2 Production and processing of asbestos fiber……………………………………………….. 37 6.3 Properties of Asbestos fiber…………………………………………………………………... 38 6.4 Applications…………………………………………………………………………………….. 38 References……………………………………………………………………………………………….. 39 CHAPTER – 7……………………………………………………………………………………………. 41 7. Animal Hair……………………………………………………………………………………… 41 7.1 Introduction………………………………………………………………………………………41 7.2 Classification of the wool fiber…………………………………………………………………41 7.2.1 Classification of wool by Sheep………………………………………………………………. 41 7.2.2 Classification by Fleece: ……………………………………………………………………… 43 7.3 Growth and structure of wool fibers………………………………………………………….. 43 7.3.1 Macro-structure of wool……………………………………………………………………….. 44 7.3.2 Micro-structure of wool…………………………………………………………………………44 7.4 Properties of wool fibers………………………………………………………………………. 45 7.4.1 Structural Properties……………………………………………………………………………45 7.4.2 Physical Properties……………………………………………………………………………..46 7.4.3 Chemical Properties…………………………………………………………………………… 46 7.5 Applications…………………………………………………………………………………….. 47 CHAPTER – 8…………………………………………………………………………………………….49 8. Silk fiber………………………………………………………………………………………….49 8.1 Introduction……………………………………………………………………………………... 49 8.2 Silk in different forms………………………………………………………………………….. 49 8.3 Extraction of Silk from Silkworm Cocoon……………………………………………………. 50 8.3.1 The process of Hatching……………………………………………………………………….50 8.3.2 The process of Moulting………………………………………………………………………. 50 8.3.3 Formation of cocoon……………………………………………………………………………50 vii 8.4 Structure of Silk Fiber…………………………………………………………………………. 50 8.4.1 Crystalline structure in polymers………………………………………………………………51 8.5 Physical parameters…………………………………………………………………………… 51 8.5.1 Thermal and Chemical configuration………………………………………………………… 52 8.6 Processing of silk………………………………………………………………………………. 52 8.6.1 In Vivo processing……………………………………………………………………………... 52 8.6.2 Rheology………………………………………………………………………………………... 52 8.6.3 Solubilisation of silk……………………………………………………………………………. 52 8.6.4 New materials formed from reprocessed silk……………………………………………….. 53 8.6.5 Films and fibers ………………………………………………………………………………... 53 8.6.6 Hydrogels……………………………………………………………………………………….. 53 8.6.7 Sponge materials………………………………………………………………………………. 53 8.7 Degradability……………………………………………………………………………………. 53 8.8 Applications…………………………………………………………………………………….. 53 References……………………………………………………………………………………………….. 55 CHAPTER – 9…………………………………………………………………………………………….57 9. Introduction……………………………………………………………………………………...57 9.1 Man-made fibers……………………………………………………………………………….. 57 9.2 Characteristics of fibers……………………………………………………………………….. 57 9.2.1 Strength…………………………………………………………………………………………. 57 9.2.2 Abrasion resistance……………………………………………………………………………. 57 9.2.3 Resilience………………………………………………………………………………………. 57 9.2.4 Stability …………………………………………………………………………………………. 57 9.2.5 Cohesiveness…………………………………………………………………………………... 58 9.2.6 Plasticity………………………………………………………………………………………… 58 9.3 Classification of manmade fibers…………………………………………………………….. 58 9.3.1 Staple Fibers…………………………………………………………………………………… 59 9.3.2 Filaments……………………………………………………………………………………….. 59 9.3.3 Filament tow……………………………………………………………………………………. 59 9.3.4 Nano Fibers…………………………………………………………………………………….. 59 viii 9.4 Regenerated cellulosic fibers…………………………………………………………………. 59 9.4.1 Rayon fibers……………………………………………………………………………………...59 9.4.2 Acetate………………………………………………………………………………………….. 60 9.5 Mineral fibers…………………………………………………………………………………… 61 9.5.1 Glass fibers………………………………………………………………………………………61 9.5.2 Asbestos fibers…………………………………………………………………………………. 62 9.6 Non-cellulosic manmade fibers………………………………………………………………..62 9.6.1 Nylon…………………………………………………………………………………………….. 62 9.6.2 Acrylic fibers……………………………………………………………………………………. 64 9.7 Spinning techniques of manmade fibers…………………………………………………….. 64 9.7.1 Wet spinning……………………………………………………………………………………. 65 9.7.2 Dry-jet wet spinning……………………………………………………………………………. 66 9.7.3 Dry spinning…………………………………………………………………………………….. 67 9.7.4 Melt spinning…………………………………………………………………………………… 68 9.7.5 Gel spinning…………………………………………………………………………………….. 69 9.7.6 Electro spinning………………………………………………………………………………… 69 CHAPTER – 10…………………………………………………………………………………………...71 10. Regenerated fibers…………………………………………………………………………….. 71 10.1 Introduction………………………………………………………………………………………
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