In the January/February 2010 issue of La Cucina Italiana ...
In the article “Grappa” Ian Wolff recommends: Grappa Aromatizzata: Nardini Aquavite “Naridni uses the ancient botanical ruta, known for its medicinal qualities, which imparts spicy notes of evergreen.”
Grappa Plurivitigno: Allegrini Amarone Grappa “Like its wine, comes from the Amarone blend of Corvina Veronese, Rondinella and Oseleta grapes that have been dried using ancient technique of appassimento. There are notes of cherry with pronounced hints of allspice and clove brought out by a year in oak.”
Jacopo Poli “A trailblazer in the evolution of grappa, gets hold of this prized vinaccia to make a delicate, aromatic grappa that spends four years on oak without losing the pleasing spice from the Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc blend.”
In his article, Wolff also quotes Winebow’s Scott Tallon … “The evolution of grappa is ongoing. In a nod to Scotch producers and their experimentation with aging in different types of barrels, Winebow’s Tallon reports that there are grappa distillers using Rhum Agricole, sherry and other types of casks for aging. These grappe aren’t available in the U.S. yet, but, as he puts it, ‘They are going to blow some minds out there, and totally change your perspective on what is grappa.’ And whether you gravitate to a purist’s grappa, a clean and clear giovane, or prefer the smoothness and depth of a grappa invecchiata, there’s no doubt that drinkers and distillers are finally recognizing its full potential.”
Complete article is included below.
The remnants of winemaking give birth to Italy’s most hard-charging and notorious libation. While its rugged reputation precedes it, grappa has a delicate and sophisticated side that emerges at the hands of expert grappaioli.
by Ian Wolff
WHETHER IT’S CROATIA’S SLIVOVITZ or a 40-year-old Scotch, France’s Armagnac or America’s bourbon, spirits have long been a distillate of national identity. They fill both pocket flasks and crystal decanters, uplifting the downtrodden as well as the wealthy. The same goes for grappa, Italy’s hard- hitting libation. For generations, grappa was a rudimentary spirit distilled from the pomace of grapes, seeds and stems left over after wine has been pressed, revered by vineyard workers and laborers while frowned upon by those who considered it too unrefined. But a new respect for the quality of the grape pomace, called vinaccia, sourced from some of Italy’s finest vineyards and wineries, has opened up a whole new world of distinguished grappe. Grappa’s origins and its notoriety as a roughneck liquor stretch back to the Middle Ages, when peasantry had to make the most of meager supplies and no scrap was wasted.
In his book Grappa: Italy Bottled , Ove Boudin points out that while wine went to royalty, the peasants were given the leftovers of winemaking, the vinaccia, to do with what they could. They made a rudimentary wine by adding water to vinaccia and called it vinello. As early as the 13th century, Boudin notes, a crude form of grappa was made in Tuscany, Veneto and Piedmont by boiling the mixture into a potent and inexpensive drink. Early distillation of vinaccia was first documented in the 17th century writings of Jesuit monks. But with the industrial revolution and development of steam power, grappa took an evolutionary leap as distillers moved from small, backyard stills to complex machines with massive boilers and towering columns. Nonetheless, its reputation as a fiery, rough drink would prove difficult to shake. Today, grappa comes from pomace of some of the best wineries in Italy, from Piedmont and Tuscany to the rough terrain of Sardinia. This is the most important advancement of the spirit, because it is the quality of the vinaccia as much as the skill of the grappaiolo (grappa-maker) that leads to an excellent grappa.
Well-crafted grappa will have a signature bouquet and aromatics derived from the type of vinaccia from which it’s made. In a way, grappa can be thought of as the essence of the grape. A grappa from Barolo, for instance, highlights the tannic backbone and spicy palate of Nebbiolo, the main grape of the region, and a grappa di Teroldego focuses the lively, bright flavors of that grape from Trentino. Moscato grappa might have notes of apricot or banana, and Brunello di Montalcino grappa, which is distilled from vinaccia of that appellation’s famed Sangiovese clone, will hint at sweet peppers and cranberry. Distillers like Paolo Marolo, who has been making his grappa at Marolo distillery since 1977, pay special attention to sourcing the best vinaccia available. Marolo gets pomace for his Brunello di Montalcino grappa from well-known winemakers like Giancarlo Pacenti, who was heralded by Wine Spectator as the best winemaker in the appellation. The vinaccia for Jacopo Poli’s grappa di Sassicaia comes entirely from that world-renowned vineyard. Scott Tallon, spirits director at wine and spirits distributor Winebow, says, “Old school grappa was a field blend of pomace. Today’s grappas are mono- varietal and aromatic blends from sincere craftsmen.”
With this new respect for vinaccia, there’s also a new respect for the varietals used in making grappa— an approach trailblazed in 1973 by the family-run Nonino distillery with their monovitigno, or single varietal, grappe. Paolo Boselli, an importer of Italian wine and spirits and a former president of Campari, says, “To produce grappa means not only to get alcohol, but to create a product that carries to the palate the characteristics of the identity of the grape varieties used.” Grappa’s complex aromatics give insight to the liquor, and are an important part of enjoying it. The bouquet exudes the true essence of the grappa’s source and reveals any flaws, either in the vinaccia itself or in the distillation process. Grappa produced from old vinaccia or vinaccia from poorly destemmed and crushed grapes, or grappa distilled hastily or without proper care, can be easily detected by its smell. Even the slightest trace of a petroleum- or diesel-like scent is a dead giveaway. Antonio Nardini, who’s family still runs the distillery they founded in 1779, emphasizes the importance of fresh vinaccia. They source their pomace from DOC producers nearest their two distilleries. “We require that the pomace is delivered within 24 hours of pressing,” he says. This demand for fresh vinaccia has also led to new relationships between wineries and distillers to exchange vinaccia, and has even led some wineries to give exclusive rights to their vinaccia.
THE ART OF DISTILLATION is crucial for capturing the aromatics and flavor of a particular vinaccia. There are many points during the process at which a distiller can negatively or positively influence his grappa. But the main hunt is for the cuore, the heart of the spirit. This involves carefully monitoring every step of distillation. As steam rises from the vinaccia in the boiler, the vapors rise through the distillation column and convert back to liquid. The first, and lightest, vapor that condenses is the testa, or head, followed by the cuore and finally the coda, or tail. The distiller’s goal is to separate the testa and the coda, which are unwanted, from the cuore. This is never a clear-cut operation, since the grappaiolo has to be careful not to discard favorable elements in the distillate. There are two types of distilleries, either continuous or discontinuous. The continuous still is the industrial standard. Uninterrupted batches of vinaccia are fed into boilers around the clock, allowing producers to process up to 200 tons of vinaccia in a day. Artisanal producers use a discontinuous still. These stills are laborious to operate, and can only distill one batch of vinaccia at a time, and must be cleaned and reloaded after each batch. There are three types of discontinuous stills, and these stills give the distiller much more control over his grappa.
One of the most common discontinuous methods is distillazione a vapore diretto, where vinaccia, rather than being placed in a boiler like other methods, is put into direct contact with steam, which picks up flavor and aromatics as it passes through the vinaccia. As distilleries’ ties to the wine industry have grown, grappaioli have also taken up barrique aging. As in winemaking, barrique aging has its proponents and detractors, with some arguing that a true grappa comes out of the still in its pure essence, called grappa giovane or bianca, young or white, which is notable for its clean, clear body. Aging a grappa in barrique takes a delicate touch, and a heavy hand can result in a dominating flavor that outweighs the nuances of the grappa.
Yet the reward can be an aged grappa, or grappa invecchiata, with a softer, rounded flavor and a color ranging from light straw to rich nut-brown, depending on the type of barrel and the amount of aging. Bertagnolli’s Koralis grappa blends pomace from Chardonnay, Teroldego and Traminer, and is aged for two years in barrique for a full-flavored and dark grappa. Marolo distillery ages Moscato grappa for five years and retains the grape’s aromatics and vibrant flavor. Each grappa has its own signature, a collage of flavors and aromas as varied as its origins, vinaccia and touch of the grappaiolo.
To fully appreciate these nuances, some prefer specially designed grappa glasses to concentrate flavor and aroma, but wine glasses or brandy snifters also work perfectly well. What’s important is that the glass releases the full bouquet of the spirit, since the nose is as important as the flavor when drinking grappa. Grappa is not necessarily the fiery spirit many think of it as. For initiates, it’s worth starting with a more delicate, aged grappa from an aromatic grape like Moscato or Gavi. From there, progress through the regional grappe, like those from Brunello di Montalcino. As one’s palate becomes familiar with grappa’s shades, unaged grappe will reveal all they have to offer.
The evolution of grappa is ongoing. In a nod to Scotch producers and their experimentation with aging in different types of barrels, Winebow’s Tallon reports that there are grappa distillers using Rhum Agricole, sherry and other types of casks for aging. These grappe aren’t available in the U.S. yet, but, as he puts it, “They are going to blow some minds out there, and totally change your perspective on what is grappa.” And whether you gravitate to a purist’s grappa, a clean and clear giovane, or prefer the smoothness and depth of a grappa invecchiata, there’s no doubt that drinkers and distillers are finally recognizing its full potential.