“What Are the Trend Drivers?”

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E51280 12 / 2019

COSMETICS | SPRAY TECHNOLOGY | MARKETING WWW.COSSMA.COM

GO FUTURE: INNOVATIONS Fighting ageing in sleep-deprived skin

SPOTLIGHT: GREEN PACKAGING A new approach to eco-friendly packaging

Asita Morgan Cosnova “WHAT ARE THE TREND DRIVERS?”

IMOGEN MATTHEWS Consultant to In-Cosmetics

Indie brands rise to the challenge LEARN • EXPLORE • NETWORK • CREATE

Barcelona • 31 March – 2 April 2020

The leading global event for personal care ingredients

Where personal care ingredients and creators come together

• Source ingredients from up to 150 suppliers • Touch and try the latest innovations • Meet exhibitors from 50+ countries • Learn about future personal care trends • Establish profitable business networks

Organised by: Register and learn more at in-cosmetics.com/global #incosGlobal

7985 INCOS20 210x297mm Master.indd 1 04/09/2019 11:37 EDITORIAL

WHAT TO EXPECT IN 2020?

All exhibitors of Cosmoprof Asia, see from page 54, in Hong Kong were invited to submit COSMOPROF ASIA their most innovative products so that global trend agency Beautystreams could identify A glacier bac- the most striking trends which are certainly bound to have a strong impact on 2020. terium – what has it got to do with the ageing process The trend ASMR stands for Autonomous Sensory Meridian Response. On YouTube, ASMR of sleep-deprived skin? videos on brain-tingling feelings are gaining millions of views daily. In beauty, these are Read from page 12. warming, cooling, vibrating or tingling products enhancing ingredient absorption. Ergo Tech stands for smart devices, beautifully designed. Ergonomic tools and devices upgrade the beauty game, delivering professional-grade beauty treatments that analyse, monitor, diagnose, personalise, zap, track, sync, and enhance. This new wave of smart devices makes cutting-edge innovations for use in the home or on-the-go. Intense Cleanse stands for supercharged cleansing products that protect against the assaults of pollution and that acts as a coping mechanism to ward off city skin. They calm MARKET SURVEY inflammation, banish airborne toxins, restore skin to balanced levels of hydration, and Our new market keep skin feeling clean, refreshed, and damage-free. survey service providers from page 32 shows at a Megawatt Pop stands for high-energy colours that boost emotion and self-expression glance what activities a through creative play. A vivid array of colours bring energy to the face, as well as the company focuses on bathroom cabinet. These joyful hues invigorate with their electrifying positivity. Reduce to Seduce: Fewer products leads to resource-saving. As the most sustainable approach is, quite simply, to consume less, multi-use products, tackle several beauty needs in a single product, are kinder on the wallet and help streamline beauty routines. To find more inspiration for 2020 product developments, just read the rest of this issue. Sincerely yours,

Angelika Meiss Senior editor, COSSMA

More information at FOLLOW US ON: www.cossma.com www.linkedin.com/company/cossma-digital/ www.twitter.com/cossmamagazine www.youtube.de/cossmatv

www.cossma.com l 3 Contents COSSMA 12/2019

12 A glacier bacterium targets an ageing process caused by lack of sleep

16 What tailored solutions address the specific hair issues of African and black consumers? 3 Editorial

10 MARKETS & COMPANIES

10 News

12 GO FUTURE: INNOVATIONS

12 Christina Pickel, Mibelle Biochemistry: For an ice-fresh appearance

16 Penny Antonopoulos, Ashland: Black, beautiful and natural

20 Interview with Jens Müller, Nouryon: Enhancing sensory effects naturally

23 Michelle Strutton, Mintel: International launches

26 INGREDIENTS Find out about the main 32 26 Dr Carsten Dietz, Cosphatec: How to keep creams germ-free activities of service providers in our updated market survey 30 Formulations: Creams & more 31 Ingredients news

32 MARKETING

32 Market survey: Service providers

38 Imogen Matthews, Consultant to In-Cosmetics: Indie brands: Stand out from the crowd

41 Star of the Month: A new perfume experience

4 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 www.cossma.com who restores a peaceful balance? — infini’tea™ biofunctional

All cultures have ancient rituals to restore well-being and balance. Over time, ceremonies have undergone reinvention but more than ever the world yearns for peaceful, stress-reducing, detoxifying therapies.

Capturing the intersection between beauty and health and wellness, Ashland’s new Infini’tea™ biofunctional is a is a unique, ultra-fresh tea serum extracted from live Camelia sinensis tea leaves using Ashland’s proprietary zeta fraction™ technology. Infini’tea™ provides formulators with a solution to restore a peaceful balance inspired by neurocosmetics and the ceremonial ritual of tea. This solution enables a young, fresh, relaxed look for skin.

ashland.com/tea

PHC20-113 Cossma Ad_ Infini'tea.indd 1 11/6/19 3:11 PM Contents COSSMA 12/2019

50 Packaging novelties at Luxe Pack

38Imogen Matthews, Consultant 42 SPOTLIGHT: GREEN PACKAGING to In-Cosmetics explains what 42 Lyne Hélène Bouchard, Louvrette, a Quadpack Company: it takes for indie brands to A broadening choice stand out from the crowd 46 Philipp Wolansky, Awantys: An approach to eco-friendly packaging

50 PACKAGING 50 Luxe Pack: Seeking a trends update 53 Packaging news 54 Cosmoprof Asia: A trends digest and award winners

56 PERSONALITIES & PROFILES

56 Interview with Asita Morgan, Cosnova: Diversity, performance, happiness and more 59 People

61 SERVICES 42 The choice for eco-friendly 08 Download List packaging is broadening 60 Events Diary 62 Suppliers‘ Guide 65 Advertisers’ Index 66 Masthead Page 66 Preview

Front cover picture: Cosnova

6 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 www.cossma.com Advancing natural formulations with Amaze™ SP

Sustainable styling products that deliver outstanding hair manageability, natural look and long-lasting styling retention are within reach thanks to Nouryon’s Amaze™ SP 100% natural polymer. Amaze™ SP can be formulated into a variety of hair styling products ranging from spritzes to mousses and combing creams.

• Improved sustainability and renewability versus synthetic polymers • Lightweight styling for invisible and nude looks • Provides thermal protection up to 230°C • Outstanding anti-frizz and volumizing performance • Compatible with commonly used styling ingredients

Learn more at nouryon.com/personalcare. 00582_181019

advert-COSSMA-Amaze-SP-global.indd 1 10/25/2019 1:26:37 PM SERVICES 8 5 in the ing past industry changes in the packag about the major CEO, JYB Conseils JEAN-YVES BOURGEOIS acquisitions company’s most recent of recycling and the about the complexity CEO, Capardoni STEFANO MEAZZA sustainability latest achievements in about the company’s Sales, Boerlind Director International CHRISTINE WILD l

years COSSMA 12 I2019 SEARCH FOROURWEBTVCLIPS ATWWW.COSSMA.COM More information More for information subscribers Free Downloads - company Louvrette the German packaging on their acquisition of provides background CEO, Quadpack TIM EAVES company ago as a full-service created about 20 years about her company she CEO, Essentia Beauty KATIA DEMARTINO ble packaging innovations in sustaina about his company’s and APAC, Geka Head New Markets ERWIN SCHUSTER

- mulations. Search for the topics you are interested in at for base useful and formulations product articles; scientific references; literature listings; supplier statistics; and data market cover; we that products finished and to extend your knowledge and understanding: more information on the ingredients ics covered in the magazine. You will find On the COSSMA website, we post lots of additional information related to the top Top additionalinformation inDecember from Lombardy. companies different 9 of stories success the inspiring shows report MA’s COSS thriving. is metics cos of field the in active manufacturers packaging and manufacturers tract con of sector the Italy, In TIPS FOR MORE INFORMATION INDECEMBER www.cossma.com search for these topics at For more information,

FORMULATION: COMPANIES: PACKAGING: INGREDIENTS: LOG INANDTAKE FULLADVANTAGE! at www.cossma.com - - - osl-ie ev-n odtoig ar Mousse, Hair KahlWax Conditioning Leave-On Toussle-Time solid, and unpackagedself-preserving products. of creation the in involved challenges the into insights provides Lush, of Co-Founder Constantine, Mo Tubes from paperboard Adaptogen for improved skin health and well-being to of master formulation the art A successful contract manufacturer has more than 1,000 useful additional items www.cossma.com www.cossma.com - -

photo: Nik Merkulov, Shutterstock.com YES. PLEASANT EFFICIENCY.

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CHT_Anz_ConsumerCareKosmetik_A4_DE_EN_ES_180918.indd 1 19.09.18 10:18 News www.geka-world.com Groundbreaking ceremoy positions. office automation solutions and assembly concepts as well as new This extension will be flanked by investments in the latest and metallising, screen printing, logistics and assembly. end of 2020, housing production facilities for lacquering 10,000 square meter extension is to be erected there by to expand the at capacity the more agile and flexible, GEKA EXPANSION www.beautyforum-milano.it wide Bologna in March 2020, from 12 to 16 For salon beauty and nail professionals and companies the next show is Cosmoprof World BEAUTY FORUM MILANO NEW EVENT Live demos took centre stage & MARKETS COMPANIES 10 quality of quality their service. the updatescongress and offered contents to improve the acquired by the German group with 16 stages in the main European capitals owned by needs of today’s consumer. sharing and live demos, with the aim of thefulfilling new and professionals salon for beauty and nail for training, Forum Milano, a Cosmoprof

COSSMA 12 I2019 | In order to make the entire production chain BolognaFiere Cosmoprof. The sessions of Health and Beauty which was recently Sulzer has nowthe works started | BEAUTY FORUM is an event The first edition The of first Geka site in Bechhofen. A event, gathered companies Beauty - the 3D technology inno with global partnership Factory fully personalised cos series of industrial offer launched launched in 2015 The brand was COTY Majority www.albea-group.com tive shapes. tions, in yet-unseen crea metic packaging solu customised packaging 3D printing for vation start-up ALBÉA Partnership www.kyliecosmetics.com www.coty.com over the next three years. lio by more than 1% p.a. ics and skin care portfo core fragrance, cosmet net revenue growth of its will be accretive to the expects the transaction Jenner for $600M. Coty with Kylie partnership a 51% ownership in the

| Coty | acquired Coty

| The company’s is designed to Erpro 3D ------disrupt disrupt the underarm biota The active does not notably antimicrobial triclosan, the company’s deo Particularly, in contrast to the conventional B125 has shown additional advantages. gation of the deodorant active SYMRISE microbiome Axillary www.symrise.com industry, according to the company. microbiome are in theaxillary thefirst readily biodegradable active on the human regardingfindings the of influence the the sensitive underarm biota notably. These microbiome and does axillary not disrupt dorant active has no negative impact on the been known for many years, a re-investi company offers companyhair prod care and offers styling Parent Holdings. Founded in 1994, the www.henkel.com, www.devacurl.com pany employs around 200 people. dollars, mainly in the US market. The com generate sales of around 100 million US Care. In 2019, the business is expected to to of the existing portfolio is complementary The formulas. portfolio of hensivevegan portfolio and “free from” ucts for curly and wavy hair with a compre HENKEL DEVACURL ACQUISITION A professional hair care brand

Month News

OF THE | |

Henkel has acquired While long term efficacy hasWhile long term efficacy

Henkel Beauty www.cossma.com SymDeo Deva

- - - - -

photos: Albéa, Cosmoprof, Devacurl, Dr. Jart+, Geka, Kylie Cosmetics, Seram, Symrise [email protected] THE DROPPERFORCBD www.virospack.com 1 2 ﬁnd Us at Booth 29 & PCD PARIS 30 January2020 K14 MARKETS & COMPANIES News Estée Lauder acquires Dr. Jart+ ACQUISITION ESTÉE LAUDER | Estée Lauder Companies have acquired the NEYRET | The French Neyret remaining shares in Have & Be, the Seoul-based, global skin care Group, founded in 1823, is company behind Dr. Jart+ and men’s grooming brand Do The Right taking over 100% of Seram Thing. The acquisition follows the company’s December 2015 minor- and its subsidiaries via its holding company NTH. After the takeover designed to create more strength in textile/multi-materials decoration for luxury products, both companies will remain independent within the group. Neyret is specialised Estée Lauder’s first acquisition of an Asian-based brand in particular in the weaving, Decoration with ribbons printing and finishing of ity investment in Have & Be. This is the company’s first acquisition ribbons for packaging and of an Asia-based beauty brand. Dr. Jart+ is expected to reach more promotional purposes. The consolidated Neyret Group will have than $500 million in net sales in 2019. Have & Be’s total enterprise annual revenue of almost €40 million and will employ over 800 is valued at approximately $1.7 billion, and stée Lauder Compa- E people worldwide. nies have agreed to acquire the remaining two-thirds of the company. www.neyret.com, www.elcompanies.com, www.drjart.com www.seram.com

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www.virospack.com [email protected] GO FUTURE: INNOVATIONS

For an ice-fresh appearance

Ingredients | What does a glacier bacterium have to do with the ageing process of sleep-deprived skin? Christina Pickel from Mibelle Group Biochemistry explains.

tress and a hectic lifestyle are Molecular chaperones becoming more and more support protein folding Scommon in today’s society Sleep deprivation does not only and frequently result in lack of sleep. cause a tired appearance on the mac- This is often markedly reflected on roscopic level but is also an ageing the skin: The face looks tired and factor on the molecular level. The AUTHOR: Christina Pickel, Study Manager shows visible signs of premature age- cause of this lies within our cells. Mibelle Biochemistry, Buchs, Switzerland ing. Importantly, it has been shown When we do not sleep enough, the www.mibellebiochemistry.com that insufficient sleep, just like UV correct production of proteins in the radiation or oxidative stress, is corre- endoplasmic reticulum (ER) is dis- lated with reduced skin health as it turbed. For cells to survive and func- weakens the skin’s ability to repair tion properly, it is crucial that pro- itself at night and thus accelerates teins are correctly folded upon

skin ageing. production in order to then fulfil their (beauty),Vitaly Shutterstock.com Valua (alps), Stein beauty),(sleeping Peter Drobot Dean figures:Mibelle, photosand

12 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 GO FUTURE: INNOVATIONS

function in the correct shape. This process involves helper proteins called chaperones, which assist in folding proteins. The need for chaperones to facilitate cell regeneration and repair increases upon cellular stress caused by lack of sleep is a process termed the un- folded protein response (UPR). However, recent research revealed that aged cells lose the capacity to activate the UPR, and the cells consequently fail to prevent protein misfolding and aggregation. This leads to an accumulation of Insufficient sleep, just like UV radiation or oxidative stress, accelerates skin ageing wrongly folded proteins which further damage the cells (see fig. 1). To support the skin in coping with cellular stresses due to lack of sleep, our company devel- themselves represent interesting reawakened and harnessed for the oped IceAwake, a novel active in- unique sources for secondary me- development of a novel active ingredient for use in cosmetics. tabolites for cosmetic or pharma- STRESS gredient for skin care. ceutical application. and a hectic life- Following large-scale cultivation A Swiss glacier bacterium for In order to discover and harvest style frequently under optimised conditions and refreshing tired skin such extremophile microorgan- result in lack of extraction of the Iodobacter ssp. Extremophile organisms are mas- isms for use in cosmetics, our re- sleep strain, the extract is spray-dried ters of survival as they are able to searchers undertook an expedi- on a maltodextrin carrier, result- adapt to conditions generally con- tion to a glacier in Valais, ing in the active ingredient sidered as hostile to life. In order Switzerland. Due to the continu- IceAwake. The efficacy of this ac- to thrive in conditions such as ex- ous shrinking of glaciers, mi- tive to reduce ER stress as a cause treme temperatures, pH values or crobes that have been hidden be- of prematurely aged and tired skin salt concentrations, extremophiles low permanent ice for centuries was investigated in vitro and in developed various strategies have become more and more ac- vivo. Extremophiles which help them to cope with cessible in the past decades. A thrive in conditions these stresses. These include, sample of the soil exposed under- such as extreme Iodobacter ssp. extract amongst others, expressing en- neath the glacier was analysed for temperatures, supports ER function zymes that are active even at sub- its microbial content. This is how pH values or salt The effect of Iodobacter ssp. on optimal conditions, and producing the Iodobacter ssp. was identified. concentrations the expression of several chaper- a large number of secondary me- After many years below the gla- ones involved in protein folding in tabolites with various functions. cier ice layer, this cold-tolerant, the ER was analysed in aged fibro- For this reason, extremophiles rod-shaped bacterium has been blasts. After 24 hours of treatment with 1% Iodobacter ssp. extract, the expression levels of key chaperones involved in the UPR were increased by up to 100% in aged fibroblasts compared to untreated cells. Iodobacter ssp. is thus able to counter the age-dependent de- cline in chaperone expression and support cell regeneration and stress responses upon sleep deprivation. In addition to causing ER stress, sleep deprivation also affects a second important cell organelle, the mitochondria. This results in decreased levels of ATP, the cellu- fig. 1: A hectic lifestyle and stress impact on protein folding and lead to cell damage lar energy currency which is also

www.cossma.com l 13 GO FUTURE: INNOVATIONS

Before After 14 days The formulation Energizing Serum are available at www.cossma.com web code: 100321

required to fuel chaperone activity (see fig. 1). Moreover, physical interactions between mitochondria and the Due to the ER, so-called mitochondria-asso- shrinking of ciated membrane (MAM) contact glaciers, microbes points, that are involved in the that have been detoxification of accumulated hidden below misfolded proteins, are reflective permanent ice of cellular stress. To assess for centuries have whether Iodobacter ssp. also alle- become more viates these signs of cellular stress, accessible fig 2: Visible improvement of wrinkle depth and signs a second study was performed us- of tiredness after 14 days of treatment with IceAwake ing cells isolated from an Alzheim- er’s disease (AD) patient. These cells combine mitochondrial im- pairment and ER stress and there- bo-controlled clinical studies. confirmed the effect of applying fore serve as a cellular model of Twenty-three overworked Asian IceAwake twice daily on the wrin- sleep deprivation. IMPROVEMENT women (aged between 41 and 57 kle depth of crow’s feet. Treatment of AD-fibroblasts with improves the years) with little and bad quality Clinical-grade evaluation further 0.01% Iodobacter ssp. extract for flawless produc - sleep were enrolled in the first highlighted a significant reduction 120 min led to a significant in- tion of proteins study. of visible facial tiredness com- crease in ATP levels of 27.5% and increases Volunteers were asked to apply a pared to initial conditions, which compared to untreated conditions. cellular energy cream containing 2% IceAwake was observed in 71% of the vol- In addition, the number of MAM levels twice daily on one half of their unteers after two weeks of treat- contact points, which was in- face, and a placebo cream without ment. creased in AD fibroblasts com- the active ingredient on the other The reduction in wrinkle depth as pared to healthy control cells, sig- half of the face. well as the improvement of tired- nificantly decreased upon After just 14 days of treatment, the ness were also visible in photo- treatment with an extract of Iodo- wrinkle depth of crow’s feet was graphs of male and female volun- bacter ssp. Together, these results significantly reduced by 11.4% teers, see fig. 2. suggest that Iodobacter ssp. ex- compared to the initial conditions Overall, these data demonstrate Extremophiles tract decreased ER stress in the and the placebo product. that after just 14 days of applica- represent inter- sleep-deprived cell model. Moreover, skin radiance signifi- tion, our active ingredient esting sources for secondary metabo- cantly increased by 9.2% com- IceAwake rejuvenates tired skin by Freshness kick for lites for cosmetic pared to initial conditions, as eval- reducing wrinkle depth and visi- sleep-deprived skin application uated by clinical expert grading. ble signs of tiredness as well as The anti-ageing and energising ef- A second study involving twen- increasing skin radiance. fect of our new active ingredient ty-one female and male Caucasian Targeting a novel mechanism of was further tested in two place- individuals (aged 44-66 years) ageing caused by lack of sleep, namely improving the flawless production of proteins and increasing cellular energy levels, “Our new active ingredient targeting a novel regular treatment with this novel ingredient results in visibly reju- mechanism of ageing caused by lack of sleep” venated skin and a fresh appearance in spite of living a hectic life- Christina Pickel, Study Manager, Mibelle Biochemistry style. Q

14 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 www.cossma.com Create the COSSMA of the future now!

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773-19_EA_Leserumfrage_Cossma_210x297_V2.indd 1 18.10.19 13:49 GO FUTURE: INNOVATIONS

The formulations mentioned and additional figures on humidity resistance are available at www.cossma.com web code: 100322 Black, beautiful and natural

Ingredients | African and black consumers around the globe are embracing the natural texture of their hair. What tailored hair product solutions exist to suit their texture preferences and to address their specific hair issues and styling choices?

lack consumers have different tines, their own sensitivities, their attitudes, standards and moti- own values, their own truths. vations behind their desired B 2 style and the products they choose . How to develop formulas for This consumer group is seeking prod- different African hair textures ucts that speaks to their hair texture, So, what factors need to be consid- AUTHOR: Penny Antonopoulos maintains or improves the health of ered when developing products for Global Director of Marketing their scalp and hair, and allows them the varying textures of African hair? Hair Care, Ashland to achieve their desired style without First is the hair itself. This hair type www.ashland.com using chemical treatments. Quite in- is quite fragile. The curl pattern of terestingly, the modern hair care con- African hair can range from wavy to sumer, regardless of age, gender, eth- kinky-coily and can be properly clas- nicity, religion, is influencing the sified into specific hair types using beauty market by their desire for for- de La Mettrie’s model. This model

mulas to fit their own personal rou- eliminates the ethnic origin of con- Shutterstock.comConfidential(hair), Red photo), (lead Kiuikson figures:Ashland, and photos

16 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 In Situ controlled flocculationGO ISCF™ FUTURE: INNOVATIONS new to the world deposition mechanism

sumers and focus on the hair shape such as curve diameter, curl Water Water Water Water Water index, and number of waves3. Based on this model, marketers + + + have a tool to better formulate the + + + + + + + + oil+ + oil+ right product mix for consumers. + + -+ + + + +- + + + + - + + - +- +- The curl pattern of African hair + +- + -+ - -+ + + - +- - - + + - - + - and its elliptical structure influ- - - - + ------+ ence the behaviour of the hair, fig. 2: In Situ Controlled Flocculation (ISCF) method and its resistance to mechanical The positively charged N-DurHance polymer is highly attracted to negatively charged hair leaving the hair with an excess of positive charges. 4 stress . The curlier the hair, the Hair is shampooed (with or without silicones) and the anionic surfactants (SLES) form flocculates on hair surface (in-situ) with smaller the curve diameter and in the cationic polymer. During flocculateenvironmental formation, hydrophobic stressors lauryl groups that from may SLES coatlong-lasting the hair surface, creatinghair acuticle damage hydrophobic layer on the hair surface (no need necessarily for silicones). If there are silicones or other oils present in the turn the higher likelihood it will shampoo, they are attracted to thecause hair surface damage. during the flocculate formation (boosting of repair.silicone deposition) This technology is acti- break since very curly hair does In 1918, the activist vated via its In Situ Controlled not stretch easily5. The SEM im- Marcus Garvey Key technologies to protect, Flocculation (ISCF) mechanism ages in fig. 1 display the different stated “Don’t strengthen and style hair (fig. 2), where it helps restore hair curvature of tightly coiled versus remove the kinks Our team of hair care solvers has to its natural hydrophobic state. less tightly coiled African hair. In from your hair. leveraged its expertise in hair to Hair is shampooed (with or with- addition, the coiling of the hair Remove them from deliver a prescriptive plan for the out silicones) and the anionic sur- prevents the distribution of natu- your brain.” African consumer to help protect, factants (SLES) form flocculates ral oils along the length of the fi- strengthen, and style their hair on hair surface (in-situ) with the bre, resulting in drier hair. As it is based on key technologies. cationic polymer. difficult to over-condition the hair, Consumers monitor damage in all During flocculate formation, hy- consumers seek out products that The natural hair aspects of their hair routine, and drophobic lauryl groups from can bring improved conditioning movement for it still influences what they buy. SLES coat the hair surface, creat- benefits. African Americans 67% of Gen Z consumers around ing a hydrophobic layer on the For those women embracing their emerged as part the world state that how a product hair surface (no need necessarily natural hair, they will use a variety of the “Black is impacts their health/wellbeing for silicones). If silicones or other of styles to enhance their hair beautiful” move- strongly impacts their product oils are present in the shampoo, such as twists, braids, or Bantu ment in the U.S. in choice7. they are attracted to the hair sur- the 1960s knots. As a result, they will spend In South Africa, 86% of consum- face during the flocculate forma- more time and money on a regi- ers are concerned/very concerned tion, thereby boosting the silicone men to condition and moisturise of the impact of pollution on deposition. their hair to maintain hair health, health and appearance8. By pre-applying a system with prevent breakage, and nourish N-DurHance AA2000, such as a their curls. For example, black Black consumers Long-lasting cleansing conditioner or pre-sham- women in the US will use about want to improve conditioning benefits poo mask, and then activating via five products to care for and style the health of The conditioning polymer N-Dur- a shampoo formula, wet comba- their hair6. For those that chemi- their scalp and Hance AA2000 conditioning poly- bility will be improved for easier , and achieve cally treat their hair, they, too, will hair mer is a suitable solution to prime detangling and will also improve their desired style seek formulas that help restore the hair with long-lasting condi- deposition of silicones and oils for without chemical hair health. Lastly, across the treatments tioning benefits without build-up, perceivable dry hair benefits such spectrum, consumers also desire restore hair health, deliver ur- as smoothness, reduced frizz and formulas that help protect against ban-proof protection, and provide softer feel.

Curvature point

Tightly coiled Less tightly curled African hair African hair fig. 1: SEM images of African hair

www.cossma.com l 17 GO FUTURE: INNOVATIONS

shown that you can deliver anti-frizz benefits for curly hair and reduce the appearance of frizz in high humidity conditions.

Protection from sun-induced damages Another environmental aggressor that can impact the health of Af- rican hair is the sun. UV-B radiation cleaves the disulfide bonds and decomposes tryptophan in hair, which in turn leads to altered cuticle cells, increased porosity and roughening of the hair surface. As a result, combing forces fig. 3: FiberHance BM solution (3x) strengthens Caucasian, Chinese are increased, mechanical strength and Afro (South Africa, most curly) hair compared to virgin hair decreases, ultimately leading to hair breakage. To help protect hair from UV induced damage, the hair In addition, N-DurHance AA2000 of pollution. Procataline G2 is a protectant Escalol HP can be added conditioning polymer shields and scalp and hair solution for city to both rinse-off and leave-on sys- repels against dust deposits and dwellers as it helps shelter the tems. Its pseudo-cationic nature pollutants’ penetration. scalp against oxidative stresses, makes it substantive to hair. Stud- So why not start your hair care increase antioxidant defences at ies have shown that it can protect routine while you sleep? The for- the hair root, and reduce hair De La Mettrie’s against tryptophan degradation, mulation Sweet Dreams Overnight damage at the surface. model focuses on across both European and African Mask is designed to pre-treat hair. The next time the hair is washed the hair shape such hair types. In addition, it signifi- This formula is powered by two after using the overnight mask, as curve diameter, cantly reduces disulfide bond complementary ingredients: N-DurHance AA2000 is activated to curl index, and cleavage, even from a rinse-off N-DurHance AA2000 conditioning add lubricity to curly hair, im- number of waves conditioner (as compared to a polymer and Procataline G2 bio- prove combability, and boost control conditioner base without functional, that help deliver a pro- overall manageability. In addition, this ingredient). Furthermore, due tective barrier and shield the hair by improving the hydrophobic to its substantive nature, it deliv- and scalp from damaging effects barrier of the hair, studies have ers less hair breakage and provides on-hair benefits such as improved hair combability and smoothness.

Popularity of hair treatments against hair damage Since 2017, hair treatments targeting damaged hair have been sur- passing conditioner launches in South Africa and Nigeria, reflect- ing the broader trend for consumers seeking in-depth hair repair/ damage control9. To help reinforce African hair and protect its fragile nature, consumers would benefit from rinse-off and leave-on treatments featuring FiberHance BM solution. Evolving from glu- cose-based chemistry, it has a multifaceted mode of action which penetrates deep into the The curl pattern of African hair can range from wavy to kinky-coily cortex to create new hydrogen and and can be properly classified into specific hair types ionic bonds thus supporting the

18 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 GO FUTURE: INNOVATIONS interpack N N WHY IS NATURAL HAIR SO POPULAR PROCESSING & PACKAGING WITH AFRICAN AMERICANS? The natural hair movement for African Americans originally emerged as part of the “Black is beautiful” movement in the U.S. in the 1960s. It helped to ignite a celebration of Afri- can-American style and identity. In 1918, the activist Marcus Garvey stated “Don’t remove the kinks from your hair. Remove them from your brain.” This statement was his message to black women to encourage them to embrace the natural texture of their hair and not succumb to the mainstream hair styles of the time. Fast forward to today, natural hair has become the new normal for black consumers globally1.

damaged internal keratin structure, strengthening the hair and returning manageability to the hair. Designed to optimise multi-bond interactions within the hair keratin cortex, FiberHance BM builds new bonds within and across the structure (dual mechanisms). Testing has shown that it provides up to three times the strength of untreated hair across various degrees of damage and three times the strength of untreated hair across various hair types (see fig. 3).

A sustainable approach to controlling curls Globally, 42% of consumers pay high/very high attention to the ingredients used in the beauty or grooming products they buy10. In South Africa, 64% of consumers seek out beauty and grooming products that contain some and/or only natural ingredients11. While consumers are willing to pay a premium for environmen- tally-friendly formats, they are not willing to sacrifice performance. For consumers looking for a nature-derived solution to better define curls and create long-lasting style, styling formulas with the polymer Styleze™ ES-1 can meet consumer expectations. This Cosmos-validated, biodegradable solution delivers bouncy, defined waves and curls, weather-resistant, durable styles, and 48-hour style retention even in humid conditions. This ingredient is suitable for styling products, e.g. treatments, curl creams, aerosol and non-aerosol mousses. The polymer can help define and control curls and provide 24-hour to 48-hour frizz control.

Adding to the efficacy of hair care formulas As African and Black consumers embrace the natural texture of their hair, they are adopting maintenance and styling habits to achieve hair health and a desired look. They prefer, and expect, hair products tailor-made for their texture, specific hair issues, and styling choices. As an expert in root to tip solutions, our company has a wide portfolio of styling and conditioning polymers that can deliver consumer-expected benefits. In addition, the global network of our hair care solvers provides local expertise and know-how to deliver effective formulas that help protect, strengthen and style the hair of today’s hair care consumer. Q

Credits: Linda C. Foltis1, Anne Clay2, T’prene Clemons1, Eric-Jan De De Feij3, Michael Franzke PhD3, Manuel Gamez-Garcia PhD1, Catherine Gondran PhD2, Bert Kroon2, Lidia Kulcsar1, Roger McMullen PhD1, Tuttu Nuutinen3, Germain Puccetti PhD1, Xin Qu PhD4, Regina Raponi5, Tyler Schiess1, David Streuli1 Ashland, 1Bridgewater, NJ, USA; 2Sophia Antipolis, France; 3Zwijndrecht NL, 4Shanghai, China; 5São Paulo, Brazil

The references and the INCI names of the products are available on the Internet 2019-10-30 interpack 2020_International_Image_103 x 297 + 3mm_COSSMA_4c_8440 2020_International_Image_103 2019-10-30 interpack Messe Düsseldorf GmbH P.O. Box 10 10 06 _ 40001 Düsseldorf _ Germany www.cossma.com 19 Tel. +49 211 4560 01 _ Fax +49 211 4560 668 l www.messe-duesseldorf.de

2019-10-30 interpack 2020_International_Image_103 x 297 + 3mm_COSSMA_4c_8440.indd 1 19.08.19 14:26 GO FUTURE: INNOVATIONS

Enhancing sensory effects naturally

Interview | Jens Müller from Nouryon talks about the current situation concerning synthetic ingredients, microplastics, their replacements and how to obtain sophisticated sensory performance with native and chemically modified

starches, biopolymers and with the help of the company’s Formulation Triangle. Shutterstock.com photo), ViChizh(lead (biopolymer), GiroScience photos:

20 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 www.cossma.com GO FUTURE: INNOVATIONS

N N Interview with: Jens Müller, Global Marketing Manager Personal Care Nouryon, Frankfurt am Main, Germany www.nouryon.com/PersonalCare

COSSMA: What are the most im condemned, despite those decisions portant trends currently in perso lacking sound scientific back-up. nal care? What are the most striking trends Jens Müller, Global Marketing Man- currently in the field of natural ager Personal Care, Nouryon: Con- cosmetics? sumers as well as formulators have learnt to fully trust synthetic ingredi- While there is a need to constantly 100% ents over the past decades. However, innovate, the natural market, allow- these ingredients, often based on po- ing formulators to create new claims natural lyacrylates, silicones or mineral oil, in skin and hair care, we see a strong are under scrutiny from NGOs and trend towards replacing synthetical- Emulsifier the media for their persistence in the ly-derived industry standards by environment and arguable sustaina- more natural product solutions. In bility. These groups are not entirely addition to increased naturalness, re- differentiating between “the good duced aquatic toxicity, and non-per- and the bad” and tend to sensation- sistence in the environment are be- alise the microplastic discussion coming key requirements rather than rather than promote good science. ‘nice to haves.’ Due to this confusion in the market, consumers are demanding cleaner What are the main challenges in INCI labelling of their skin care, hair formulating natural cosmetics? care and styling products, which led many brands to introduce their own Synthetic ingredients are also per- labels claiming non-persistent and ceived as being the work horses of a microplastic-free ingredients. formulation. There is a perception that when using partially- and ful- Emulsun® What is the situation currently ly-natural ingredients it is often a concerning microplastics in per challenge to achieve the same luxu- The new low cost O/W emulsifier sonal care? rious sensory of a cosmetic formula- derived from sunflowers tion. This is not true. In fact, most We see uncertainty in the market. formulators know how to use poly- l INCI: Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil There are several recommendations, acrylates as they have worked with Polyglyceryl-3 Esters (and) Hydrogenated opinions, definitions and guidelines them for years and have used them Sunflower Seed Oil Glyceryl Esters (and) readily available, yet a strict guidance as a crucial technology to meet con- Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl is missing. Microplastic labels are sumer demand for performance. Lactylate flooding the market, with many only With manufacturers starting to use l PEG- and preservative free referring to the INCI description starch-based technologies more l HLB independent and non-ionic rather than the actual technology. broadly, existing production routines l biodegradable and oxidatively stable This leaves many grey areas for inac- need to be adjusted and optimised. l easy to handle curate interpretation. Safe and It is a field where further education l low odor and color non-persistent technologies are being in formulating is required. As an ex- l improved sensory appeal l increased skin hydration l build up viscosity without thickeners “Starch-based technologies require optimised production routines” Jens Müller, Global Marketing Manager Personal Care, Nouryon

www.cossma.com l 21 www.lehvoss.com

191114-LuV_EMULSUN_Anz_COSSMA_RZ-NEU-V3A.indd 1 14.11.19 16:23 GO FUTURE: INNOVATIONS

“Instead of copying synthetic solutions, the styling Formulation examples are available at polymer opens a new field of applications and claims” www.cossma.com web code: 100323 Jens Müller, Global Marketing Manager Personal Care, Nouryon

pert in bio-polymers we support for- effect and intriguing new textures. chemical modification is desired, our mulators with application science What solutions do you offer in this range of native starches around Tap- and product literature; with our bi- field? ioca Pure and Purity 21C offer addi- opolymer masterclass, we offer train- tional choices for particularly clean ing courses to our customers to show With our Formulation Triangle we in- INCI labelling. them how to use biopolymers in the troduced a methodology that helps most efficient way in order to achieve consumers navigate through the en- What solutions does your compa desired textures and skin feels. tire sensory spectrum, by using only ny offer that help companies for three of our natural rheology modifi- mulate natural cosmetics pro What products does your company ers: Amaze XT (Dehydroxanthan ducts? offer in this field and how do they Gum), Structure XL (Hydroxypropyl perform? Starch Phosphate) and Structure Sola- In addition to our wide-ranging port- nace (Potato Starch Modified). Start- folio of rheology modifiers and sen- Our company offers a range of bi- ing from a simple base formulation, sory enhancers, we have recently in- opolymers comprised of brands such the set comprises nine formulations troduced Amaze SP. This novel styling as Dry-Flo, Amaze and Structure. and demonstrates the effects of using polymer provides a touchable, light- These vary from native starches for rheology modifiers at different levels weight hold. Rather than trying to the most natural labelling to chemi- or in combinations. It is a great copy synthetic solutions, the polymer cally modified starches for optimised guideline to achieve new textures or opens a completely new field of ap- performance, stability and product closely mimic the particular skin feel plication possibilities and claims, safety. In addition to the wide variety of polyacrylates. such as decreased drying time versus of consumer perceived benefits (such Once the formulation has been cre- traditional polymers, invisible styling as mildness and aesthetics) these ated, the skin feel can further be al- and hair manageability, while being products can offer to formulations, tered by adding the right sensory en- 100% naturally derived. they are also valuable because of hancer. With e.g. Nylon and PMMA their ability to be readily biodegrad- being banned in several countries, What are the challenges involved able. With our catalogue of products, starches are great alternatives to fill in sourcing ingredients using re we cover a range of functionalities, this gap. Chemically modified newable raw materials? including film formation, rheology starches such as Dry-Flo PC and Dry- modification and sensory enhance- Flo TS are capable of providing an For rheology modification in particu- ment. outstanding skin feel as they signifi- lar, formulators expect batch-to- cantly reduce the oiliness and greas- batch consistency in production. Consumers require personal care iness of formulations due to their hy- While native starches may pose a risk products with a pleasant sensory drophobic surface treatment. If no of slight variations, the effects can be masked by low degrees of chemical modifications. Looking particularly at Structure XL, hydroxypropylation increases performance and consistency significantly, without losing much of the naturalness of the product. Different modifications will provide a variety of textures and benefits, such as increased shear-thinning, foam sensory improvement, low pH efficacy and viscosity build-up. Hence, biopolymers may not only be used in traditional skin care but also all kinds of hair care, shower, Biopolymers may be used in traditional skin care and also in hair make-up and hair bleaching applica- care, shower, make-up and hair bleaching applications tions. Q

22 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 www.cossma.com photos: Mintel hydrating complex with a hemp seed tan Moisturising extender GOLD HEMPNATION featured on the company’s GNPD*. Strutton presents a selection of innovative products recently new product beauty introduction highlights of 2019. Michelle Product development | This month Mintel features some of the O row will become wellbeing partners trends andmore. on forproducts which feature these ture heavily interms ofNPD. Read use atgymorhomecontinuetofea- that tapintoactive beautyfor the their skin’s health, while products become more aware ofthisthreat to area of beauty NPD as consumers Protection from bluelightisagrowth for years tocome. growing importancetoconsumers Waste Sub-Zero aligning withour have focussed onimpactandwaste, of themore interesting introductions across allconsumer categories. Many ity has become a must-have aspect with theircustomers. Sustainabil Trends according toour to serum that balances the mood, novations. From crystals inmake-up , successful brands of tomor- run through many ofthein- is acommontrend which has ver the past year, wellbeing NOTO and senses mist for skin, hair Versatile toning , whichwillbeof 2019 BPC Trend BPC 2019 00 Consumer 2030

- lighter withasoftpinkrose quartz created by Miranda Kerr is certified of basil andylangylang.Theprod- skin, hairandsenses withthesmell with anti-inflammatory andsebum mood, German(blue)chamomile, rodisiac ylang oiltoliftthe passageways, theantisepticandaph essential oil to open lung and nose ter, purifyingyarrow extract, basil ing andhydrating distilledrose wa- toning. Itisformulatedwithcalm- or tofreshen andhydrate withsoft uct canbeusedas alightmoisturiser In Germany, All-inclusive mist basilyarrow tract forenhancingnatural radiance. well as rose quartzpowder crystal ex ganic noniextract andcoconutoilas minous glow. Itcontains certifiedor- hue thatprovides hydration andalu Quartz Luminizer age causedby free radicals. The the skinfrom environmental dam 100 vitamins andminerals toprotect flammatory agent,richin more than rial, antiviral, anti-fungal andanti-in antioxidant, anti-ageing,anti-bacte - are enriched with noni extract, an love, self-esteem andacceptance, and soothing energy toencourage self- quartz, acrystal believed tocarry a origin. They are energised withrose mum of95%ingredients of natural while theformulas contain amini- packs madefrom recyclable plastic, vironmentally friendlyandBPA-free biodiversity, theproducts retail inen organic topromote sustainabilityand In theUK, wellness effects andcosmetic inmake-up pair Crystals sex, multi-usecosmetic brand. Yarrow Mist isacooltoningmistfor Noto Kora Organics Kora is anorganic high- isanatural, uni- range Basil Rose Rose ------and hibiscus, ahempseedhydrating pink rose quartz pink for rose a quartz luminous glow Organic highlighter with a hydrating KORA ORGANICS * Global new products database and B shea butterandglycerin, vitamins E complex, ahydrating blend of jojoba, Technology is formulatedwith and provide 24-hourhydration. It product isclaimedtoabsorb quickly peach andhibiscusfragrance. The everyday moisturiser. It has awhite after exposure toUV lightoras an ing, moisturisingtanextender isused Oil Seed Hemp with Extender Tan Moisturizing biscus The Australian company seedoil hemp with extender tan Moisturising hydrating water. witch hazel, calming lavender and restorative properties, antibacterial Nation web code: 100324 www.cossma.com More information at GO FUTURE: INNOVATIONS 3 features as well as microspheres. , antioxidant white peach www.mintel.com Mintel, London, UK Beauty & Personal Care Global Michelle Strutton AUTHOR: Research Manager White Peach & Hi & Peach White

www.cossma.com

Smooth & Tone & Smooth . Thisnourish Gold Hemp

23 - - HIGHLIGHT OF THE YEAR ADVERTISEMENT

Empress light PCR Colour is a double wall jar of high quality made from post consumer recycled material photo: Berry photo: Bramlage Empress Light PCR colour Sustainability looks better than ever!

he availability of coloured Both the lid and outer layer of the The Empress Light with PCR colours post-consumer recycled Empress Light jar, which are manu- is available in 50ml, 200ml, 250ml T(PCR) plastic for the produc- factured in 95% PCR, can be speci- and 300ml sizes, making it ideal for tion of Berry Bramlage’s popular Em- fied in a range of PCR colours, ensur- family ranges. press Light jar (in all sizes except ing that the sustainability benefits of the 75ml version manufactured in the material are combined with a SAN) means personal care manufac- quality image and on-shelf appeal. turers have even more opportunities to adopt brand-enhancing packaging Equally important, the jar offers a with a strong sustainability profile. sleek and stylish design with the dual-layer construction achieving a Traditionally the use of PCR has luxurious thick-walled effect that tended to produce off-white contain- heightens the user experience while ers. at the same being lightweight and RPC Bramlage Division GmbH & Co. KG easy to handle. part of Berry Global Inc. Now advances in both the reprocess- Braegeler Str. 70 ing and manufacturing stages have To complement the high-end nature 49393 Lohne (Oldenburg) allowed the introduction of a solu- of the jar, Berry Bramlage also offers Germany tion more in keeping with the pre- a wide range of advanced decoration [email protected] mium nature of the market and con- techniques to meet individual brand- www.rpc-bramlage.com sumer expectations. ing requirements. +49 4442 881 0

24 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 www.cossma.com ADVERTISEMENT HIGHLIGHT OF THE YEAR

Berry Bramlage, part of Berry Global, has launched a portfolio of ‘e-commerce ready’ personal care standard packs photo: Berry photo: Bramlage NEW STANDARD E-COMMERCE RANGE! Packaging ready to go for safe travel

erry Bramlage has launched tensive experience in the e-com- Further products will be added to the a portfolio of ‘e-commerce merce sector having worked on a portfolio in the coming months as the Bready’ personal care standard number of custom-designed projects company continues to expand its packs to enable customers to benefit for customers in recent years, includ- range of reliable pack solutions in from speed to market for their new ing in China, one of the fastest-grow- line with the continuing double-digit product launches. ing e-commerce markets. year on year growth of the e-commerce market. The packs – from the company’s While the company continues to of- top-selling Magic Star, Magic SL fer its design skills for the develop- Twist-Up, Empress and Empress ment of specific projects, it also rec- Light – have all been independently ognised the need for a standard certified by a third-party laboratory range to meet the demands of cus- IBE-BVI, an ISTA certified laboratory tomers seeking a speedier route to (member ID: ST-9858) in line with market for their products. RPC Bramlage Division GmbH & Co. KG ISTA 6 testing protocols. part of Berry Global Inc. As well as the reduced lead times, the Braegeler Str. 70 This underlines the containers’ ro- Berry Bramlage solutions offer valu- 49393 Lohne (Oldenburg) bust and durable design that ensures able cost reductions for customers by Germany products arrive at the consumer in minimising the requirement for addi- [email protected] pristine condition, thus protecting tional foam and protective tertiary www.rpc-bramlage.com brand image. Berry Bramlage has ex- packaging. +49 4442 881 0

www.cossma.com l 25 INGREDIENTS

How to keep creams germ-free

Preservatives, antimicrobials | The modern way of preserving a product means making a product unattractive for germs but highly attractive for consumers. Today’s challenges involved in this are described in this short history of cosmetic preservation.

acteria, yeasts and moulds are a product unattractive for germs but an indispensable element of highly attractive for consumers. Such Blife and evolution. On one hand a guiding principle, however, con- bacteria on our skin and in our diges- fronts cosmetic manufacturers with tive system are of high functional typical questions for each new devel- need, on the other hand we intend to opment: AUTHOR: Dr Carsten Dietz protect our food and cosmetics against • Shall I use listed preservatives or Technical Sales Director, Cosphatec undesirable contamination. other antimicrobials? Hamburg, Germany Killing bacteria, yeasts and moulds is • Which substance is best for my less of a challenge than finding the product? right balance: The modern way of • What about the potential for irrita-

preserving a product means to make tion? Shutterstock.comanise), (star LiskaM cane), (sugar Ekkaratk (cream), Solodilova Ekaterina photos:

26 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 INGREDIENTS

“Controversial preservatives can be replaced with inexpensive mixtures of mild preservatives boosted by antimicrobial multi-functionals.” Dr Carsten Dietz, Technical Sales Director, Cosphatec

• Is it possible that the antimicro- Since 1953, more and more toxi- started to replace controversial bials interact with the other in- cological research centres have substances. gredients? PRESERVATION been established and step by step It seems as if for each new trend • Which substances can be certi- The first indica- put a damper on several synthetic a new certification label pops up. fied with different natural cos- tions of preserva- preservatives. A couple of danger- All these labels have different re- metic labels? tion date back to ous side effects starting from al- quirements and it can be hard to • Are there any restrictions re- 5000 B.C. lergic reactions, hormone influ- keep track; in particular for man- garding the allowed dosage? encing effects right up to a ufacturers who export their prod- In order to understand these ques- carcinogenic potential were iden- ucts and thereby are obligated to tions and their back story, we tified or the substances just came fulfil local requirements of other need to dive into the history of under suspicion. Today, some sub- countries. Although, today it is preservation from the start and stances are completely banned highly recommended to reassess also concentrate on the fast devel- and the use of most of the early especially the antimicrobial sys- opment in the last 15 years. In 1930, the inven- synthetic preservatives has been tem of cosmetic formulations The first indications of preservation of parabens restricted. Nevertheless, parabens more than ever. tion go back to 5000 B.C. when simplified preserva- are still used in mass market prod- The variety of user needs is mas- grapes were dried or used to pre- tion tremendously ucts but even large manufacturers sive: European, African and Asian pare wine and vinegar. Romans are starting to search for alterna- skin are as different as the individ- mastered many preservation tech- tives. ual sensitivity to irritating ingredi- niques that are still used today. It seems that in the last ten years ents. Companies such as ours who Vegetables were covered by oil, progress has sped up more than produce raw materials to protect fruits preserved by honey, other ever. Why? Scientific research, cosmetic formulations against mi- food was salted or boiled in salted safety reports and toxicological as crobials, oxidation and instability water. In the late Roman Byzan- well as irritation tests are just are dealing with these challenges. tine Empire, medicals led to the The esters of some pieces of the puzzle. Test We focus on product preservation discovery of distillation; the be- p-hydroxyben- magazines, cosmetic websites and and particularly on alternative ginning of the perfume develop- zoic acid are very rating apps for smartphones are preservation. Thanks to an inter- efficient, highly ment and the usage of alcohol for further powerful tools with a national client network, the man- water-soluble, cover preservation. strong influence on consumer’s ufacturer benefits from a broad a broad pH range The development of synthetic pre- of 3.0–7.0 and are opinions and needs. Whereas in experience of global market trends th th servatives in the 19 and 20 cen- inexpensive the past a certain level of chemical and requirements. Thus, a high tury led to the breakthrough of knowledge was necessary to un- number of antimicrobial products broadband preservation. In 1855, derstand the INCI of cosmetic meets the needs of each cosmetic formaldehyde was discovered and products, in modern days such product line. ten years later a technical produc- smartphone apps make it very As a result of long-term research, tion was realised. In the course of easy to gain a fast and straightfor- our company has defined three the next 100 years, formalde- ward overview of substances and possible stages to effectively re- hyde-donors such as DMDM-Hy- their individual rating. place preservatives. In the first dantoin and Bronopol. In 1930, Organic antimi- Nevertheless, these platforms can stage, criticised preservatives can the invention of parabens had a crobials derived be unfair and misleading when be replaced with inexpensive mix- significant influence on the mar- from sugar care they don’t handle the individual tures of well-tolerated and mild ket and simplified preservation a and anisic acid rating of raw materials transpar- preservatives boosted by antimi- lot. These esters of p-hydroxyben- from star anise ently. As a result of these tools and crobial multi-functionals. zoic acid showed a great effi- have been used in growing awareness concerning The second stage is represented all kind of cosmetic ciency, an acceptable water-solu- chemical components, the pres- by synthetic multi-functionals products for the bility, covered a broad pH range sure on the cosmetic producers is with the big advantage that they last decades of 3.0–7.0 and were inexpensive. just as increasing as the number do not need to be listed as preserv- However, every product has its ze- of new developed healthy ingredi- atives. Thus, there are no restric- nith and the situation changed. ents. Even big multinationals have tions and these products can be

www.cossma.com l 27 INGREDIENTS

The levulinic acid derived from sugar cane and anisic acid derived from star anise are strong organic antimicrobials

used in all kinds of formulations team believes: “Well-proven anti- Formulations and in every dosage. An impres- microbials which have been used are available at sive range of positive properties for decades without any concerns The use of most of www.cossma.com include a strong antimicrobial ef- are like raw diamonds.” the early synthetic web code: 100325 ficiency. A good example for such a devel- preservatives has Finally, the last stage is using opment is our invention of Cos- been restricted completely natural preservation phaderm Sodium LAAS: The le- with the help of natural-certified vulinic acid derived from sugar antimicrobials. This broad prod- cane and anisic acid derived from uct portfolio is a relief for every star anise, are strong organic an- the forefront in industrial coun- cosmetic manufacturer because timicrobials which have been tries due to the increased number many substances are offered as used in all kind of cosmetic prod- of concerned and well-informed both a natural and as synthetic ucts including baby care for the The levulinic acid end-consumers, the green trend version. Once an efficient antimi- last 20 to 30 years. The challenge derived from sugar continues. As the growing number crobial system has been identified, is the workflow and handling of cane and anisic of certification labels and require- acid derived from it is easy to start with the synthetic these acids caused by a low solu- ments within the global market star anise, are versions and replace them easily bility. Transforming them into are challenging for cosmetic man- strong organic by the chemically identical natural salts combined with a spray dry- antimicrobials ufacturers dependable experience versions if a certification is re- ing process results in a new prod- is needed to help navigate through quired. uct that is far more user-friendly regulatory pitfalls. For each individual formulation and also more sustainable. No fur- Cooperation with experts in pres- the best price/efficiency ratio is ther dissolution steps of the acids ervation, such as our company, identified with the help of chal- are needed and the concentration can help bridge knowledge gaps lenge tests. of actives in the mixture can be and workload, including expertise Screening the market for new an- increased to a maximum. This As all the certi- in how to deal with natural cos- timicrobial substances and syn- does not only reduce packaging fication labels metic labels and REACH relevant thesis of new molecules is part of and transportation costs but also popping up have topics. our company’s research. But also storage areas and makes the use different require- Prospectively, new molecules and well-established products get im- of palm-oil derived solvents obso- ments it can be new antimicrobial extracts will be proved continuously for example lete. hard to keep track developed as we gain more knowl- by increasing their user-friendli- In conclusion, as natural ingredi- edge about natural processes and ness. The manufacturer’s R&D ents have come more and more to billions of years of evolution. Nev- ertheless, improving existing substances to work in a more effective way is also gaining in importance. Finally, we can learn from history “Killing bacteria, yeasts and moulds is less of that the current classification is just a snapshot of the current tox- a challenge than finding the right balance” icological knowledge base and it will be interesting to see what new Dr Carsten Dietz, Technical Sales Director, Cosphatec insights the future will bring. Q

28 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 www.cossma.com

INGREDIENTS Creams & more

Formulations | Do you seek inspiration for the development of new creams, lotions, masks, oils, scrubs and exfoliating products? Then our selection here might prove useful. And if you want to take a closer look at the formulation details, just enter the webcode 100326 at www.cossma.com.

Cream to Oil Peeling Infusing Lemon Aloe Stimulating Body The details of the formulations listed BASF Polisher are available at www.cossma.com Greentech Winter Cream web code: 100326 Biesterfeld Spezialchemie Bed Sheet Mask HallStar Daily Cream Skin Care Brenntag Triluronic Face Cream Sublimating Body Scrub Jeen International Sederma Natural Face & Body Lotion OW CLR A Basket Full of Roses Body Scrub Multi-benefit Marine Serum KahlWax Seppic Curl Defining Cream Covestro Charcoal + Scrub Face Mask Thai Wellness Body Butter Kobo Products Sisterna Clean Healing Cooling Cream Croda Soothe My Soul Body Oil AM Sugar Rush Scrubbing Jam Merck KgaA Univar Solutions Essential Beauty Barrier Cream Peach Peeling Bar DSM Protective Cold Cream Nordmann Zschimmer & Schwarz Skin Tone Correcting Cream – “Happy

Day” Hydrafence Cake Cream Shutterstock.com In the January/February issue, we will be focusing on for- Eckart Altana Provital mulations for facial care and colour cosmetics. In our Feb- ruary issue, skin cleansing formulations will take centre stage. All of the information published here has been care- Pre-Shampoo Scrub Images72, Night Repair Face Cream fully assembled. Neither the publishers nor the developers Roelmi HPC4 of these formulations can accept responsibility for its safe- Floratech ty or accuracy. photo:

– ADVERTISEMENT –

30 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 www.cossma.com photos: Puhhha, Fotolia, Maria Avvakumova (décolleté), Blackday (women), Shutterstock.com spots wasIn only observed. 14 days of applying a cream con oxidative stress and In inflammation. vivo a decrease in red smoother skin, improved cellular metabolism and reduction of skin care treatments is still used today removal, for impurity healthier skin ethnicities. in Clay different as one of the oldest of clay effects on beneficial the skin for cleaner, smoother and a microorganism isolated from clay. It mimics the multiple www.lipotec.com was shown, as well as a reduction in porphyrins. taining 3% ingredient an increase of smoothness and softness LIPOTEC For multiple ethnicities www.givaudan.com/activebeauty damages.structural or chemically-induced layer around the hair thatfibre protects them from thermally The biodegradable properties. polymers build film-forming a ing colour due to its and ensures a long-last tects hair from pollution It repairs, but also pro many hair care benefits. ingredient sustainable biomimetic of energy, the starch as natural source fermentation using plant Produced by means of from vegan ingredients. hair care products made ing natural or organic women aged 16–24 seek years, with 25% of British globally in the last five more than doubled vegan products beauty BEAUTY | Launches of GIVAUDAN ACTIVE FOR HAIR CARE SILKVEGAN Enhancing the skin of all of types ethnicities | Silkgel has Uniclay is a biotech ingredient obtained from vegan and - - - improves smoothness The multifunctional product

Month News

OF THE

- www.gattefosse.com GATTEFOSSE EFFICACY ONNECKANDDÉCOLLETÉ network network and has an anti-wrinkles effect. stimulates activity,fibroblasts’ toprovides the support collagen fibre at the décolleté and neck were reduced. The active of natural origin and a questionnaire. The results showed that lines fine and wrinkles a dermatologist’s clinical scoring, a self-assessment of the volunteers 3D acquisitions to analyse the lines fine and wrinkles of the décolleté, to evaluate skin firmness, on the cutometry forearms techniques were applied: skin. Multiple evaluation arms of women with mature on the neck, décolleté and 1% containingformulation to of test a the efficacy clinical test was performed Gatuline In-Tense MB

| A new new A Reduces lines fine on décolleté and neck News

www.cossma.com INGREDIENTS – ADVERTISEMENT –

31 . MARKET SURVEY 32 ASM Aerosol-Service AG, [email protected], www.aerosol-service.com Arthur Edward Associates, [email protected], www.arthuredward.com artefactum, [email protected], www.artefactum.biz www.as-cosmetic-services.de Angelika Schneider - Consulting & Cosmetic Services, [email protected] www.skymatics.com.my AF Manufacturing Services Sdn Bhd, [email protected] www.adfpcdparis.com ADF&PCD organised by Easyfairs Oriex, [email protected] company, e-mail,website ● ○

l yes no

COSSMA 12 I2019 form at form www.cossma.com/service/market-survey and what their main is. activity If you want to be listed here, too, just in fill the entry providers of will service prove helpful. It shows what activities a company focuses on Market survey SERVICE PROVIDERS | If you are looking for new companies to work with, this market survey ● ○ ● ● ● ○

contract services ○ ○ ● ● ○ ○

laboratory services, scientific testing ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

software solutions ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ●

seminars, training, trade shows ○ ● ○ ● ○ ○

business consultants, associations, market research ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

agency (advertising, media, PR, brand, design) ○ ● ○ ● ○ ○

other services and cosmetic products contract manufacturing of pharmaceutical beauty, cosmetic & personal care recruitment r&d, production, filling CPSR manufacturing of any liquid product dispensing and beauty packaging show & congress expert meeting for aerosol,

most important service web code 100327 at www.cossma.com Download this market survey

photo: Makistock, Shutterstock.com MARKET SURVEY

○ no ● yes

Behr's GmbH, [email protected], www.behrs.de ○ ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ seminars for the cosmetics industry BIB Production & Packaging, [email protected], www.bibproduction.nl ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ bag-on-valve Bio-Energo W. Lohmann GmbH, [email protected], www.bioenergo.de ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ private label production BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a., [email protected], www.cosmoprof.com ○ ○ ○ ● ○ ● ● Cosmoprof and Cosmopack trade shows bomo trendline, [email protected], www.bomo-trendline.de ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ airless systems, packaging skin care, full service, private label

Brace GmbH, [email protected], www.brace.de ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ microencapsulation Bridts Corporate Finance GmbH & Co. KG, [email protected], www.bridtscf.de ○ ○ ○ ○ ● ○ ● m & a Brookfield Ametek Engineering, [email protected] ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ ○ rheometers, viscometers, texture analysers www.brookfieldengineering.com Carecos Kosmetik GmbH, [email protected], www.carecos.de ● ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ full service for cosmetics Chem2Market GmbH, [email protected], www.chem2market.com ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ● plant extracts, vitamins Chemspec Europe organised by Mack Brooks Exhibitions Ltd. ○ ○ ○ ● ○ ● ○ Chemspec Europe trade show [email protected], www.chemspeceurope.com

Concept Heidelberg GmbH, [email protected], www.gmp-navigator.com ○ ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ seminars for the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industry Conor Consulting, [email protected], www.conor-bernhardt.de ○ ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ● safety assessments

Cosmetic Valley, [email protected], www.cosmetic-valley.com ○ ○ ○ ● ● ● ○ Cosmetic 360 trade show Cosmetri GmbH, [email protected], www.cosmetri.com ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ ○ GMP ISO: 22716 DataPhysics Instruments GmbH, [email protected], www.dataphysics.de ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ ○ test apparatus, analytical instrumentation

Dema Deutsche Markenprodukte & Vertriebs GmbH, [email protected] ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ● ● niche products www.dema-deutschland.de Dr. Gänsbauer Institut, [email protected], www.gänsbauer.com ○ ○ ○ ○ ● ○ ● safety assessments Dr. Lautenbacher Sachverständigenbüro GmbH, [email protected] ○ ● ○ ○ ● ● ○ consultants, developing new compositions, www.svb-lautenbacher.de toxicological safety reports Dr. Schröder Cosmetica GmbH & Co. KG, [email protected] ● ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ contract services www.dr-schroeder-cosmetica.de Emil Kiessling GmbH, [email protected], www.emil-kiessling.de ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ contract development, contract manufacturing, full service etol Gesundheitspflege- und Pharmaprodukte GmbH, [email protected] ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ contract services, private label www.etol.de

Faber-Castell Cosmetics, [email protected], www.fc-cosmetics.com ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ cosmetic pencils, contract manufacturing Fachpack Trade Show organised by NürnbergMesse GmbH, www.fachpack.de ○ ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ FachPack packaging trade show

www.cossma.com l 33 MARKET SURVEY

○ no ● yes company, e-mail, website contractlaboratory servicessoftware services,seminars, solutions scientificbusiness training, testingagency consultants, trade other(advertising, shows services associations,most media,important PR,market service brand, research design) Forum Institut für Management GmbH, www.forum-institut.de ○ ○ ○ ● ○ ● ○ seminars for the cosmetics industry Galvagni Schönheit GmbH, [email protected], www.galvagni.de ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ private label cosmetics Geka GmbH, [email protected], www.geka-world.com ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ cosmetic packaging GW nature cosmetic GmbH, [email protected], www.gwcosmetic.com ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ AOO Haver & Boecker Particle Analysis, [email protected], www.haverboecker.com ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ ○ particle analysis Heitland & Petre International GmbH, [email protected], www.rosa-graf.de ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ complete range of cosmetic care products Hello! cosmetic projects, [email protected], www.cosmetic-projects.de ○ ● ○ ● ● ● ● market launch safety (PIF, CPSR), claims, CPNG Industrieverband Körperpflege- u. Waschmittel e.V., [email protected], ○ ○ ○ ○ ● ○ ● industry association www.ikw.org Intergate Consulting GmbH, [email protected] ○ ○ ○ ● ● ● ○ consulting and services market entry China www.intergate-consulting.de Jovis enterprises ltd., [email protected], www.druid.ch ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ ○ formulation and regulatory affairs software juravendis Rechtsanwaltskanzlei, [email protected], www.juravendis.de ○ ○ ○ ○ ● ○ ● legal advice related to cosmetics Jürgen Hasel Kosmetische Entwicklungen e.K., [email protected], ● ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ safety assessments www.hasel.eu Jüstrich Cosmetics AG, [email protected], www.juestrich-cosmetics.ch ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ contract manufacturing KHK GmbH, [email protected], www.lipcare.de ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ organic lipcare Klar + Partner AG, [email protected], www.klar-partner.de ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ ○ formulation management and software Kossmann, [email protected], www.kossmann.in ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ promotion of products to Indian brands Krüss GmbH, [email protected], www.kruss.de ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ ○ tensiometers, contact angle, foam analysis L.A. Schmitt GmbH, [email protected] ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ full service www.schmitt-cosmetics.com LAV Management & Service GmbH, [email protected], www.emlyn.de ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ production of natural cosmetics Les Parfumables, [email protected], www.lesparfumables.com ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ testers Lohn-Pack K.A. Wolf GmbH & Co. KG, [email protected] ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ filling, packaging and assembling www.lohn-pack.com LRHQ , [email protected], www.lrhq.de ○ ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ● safety assessments LUM GmbH, [email protected], www.lum-gmbh.com ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ ○ particle sizing and characterisation M B D Markus Bruckner Designer, [email protected], ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ● ○ industrial design www.markusbruckner.com MAG Cosmetics GmbH, [email protected], www.mag-cosmetics.de ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ● full service, contract production hair care MakeUp in ... Shows / Infopro Digital, [email protected] ○ ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ MakeUp shows www.makeup-in.com Mank GmbH Converting Service, [email protected], www.mank.de ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ biodegradable disposables MC Beauty Science UG, [email protected], www.mcbeauty-science.com ● ● ○ ○ ● ● ○ R&D, formulations, production, facial masks, CBD and other actives Merumaya Effective Skincare, [email protected], www.merumaya.com ○ ○ ○ ○ ● ○ ○ skincare Messe Düsseldorf GmbH, [email protected], www.beauty.de ○ ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ BEAUTY trade fair Minebea intec GmbH, [email protected], ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ ○ weighing, inspection www.minebea-intec.com Monti Medical Corp S.A., [email protected], www.montimedical.com ○ ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ● devices Natural Beauty and Spa Event, [email protected] ○ ○ ○ ● ○ ● ○ Natural Beauty trade shows www.naturalbeautyandspa.co.uk

34 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 MARKET SURVEY

○ no ● yes

company, e-mail, website contractlaboratory servicessoftware services,seminars, solutions scientificbusiness training, testingagency consultants, trade other(advertising, shows services associations,most media,important PR,market service brand, research design) Naturkosmetik Branchenkongress / Natural & Organic Cosmetics Conference ○ ○ ○ ● ○ ● ○ congress for natural cosmetics [email protected], www.naturkosmetik-branchenkongress.de PaCos GmbH, [email protected], www.pacos-gmbh.de ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ cosmetic full service PANalytical GmbH, [email protected], www.panalytical.com ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ ○ X-ray diffractometers, XRF spectrometers Pfeiffer Consulting GmbH, [email protected] ○ ○ ○ ● ● ● ● Cosmetic Campus seminars, www.pfeiffer-consulting.com cosmetic GMP consultant QACS Ltd., [email protected], www.qacs.gr ○ ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ the challenge test laboratory Reinhart Rechtsanwälte, [email protected], www.reinhart.legal ○ ○ ○ ● ● ○ ● cosmetic lawyers Rudolf Lenhart GmbH & Co. KG, [email protected], www.lenhart.de ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ Saralon GmbH, [email protected], www.saralon.com ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ ○ printed electronics for smart packaging and print media applications Schindler Parent GmbH, [email protected], www.schindlerparent.de ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ● ○ strategic brand communication Schwan Cosmetics International GmbH, [email protected] ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ● cosmetic pencils, customising, www.schwancosmetics.com contract services, mascaras Seal Master Corp., [email protected], www.sealmaster.com ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ ○ reinforced inflatable seals Sh.Safe-cos, [email protected], www.sh-safe-cos.de ○ ● ○ ● ● ○ ● safety assessments (PIF, CPSR), CPNP, claims Signum Computer GmbH, [email protected], www.signum-vision.de ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ ○ quality control, optical surface inspection Skinfinity, [email protected], www.skinfinity.hr ● ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ luxury cosmetics Skinobs, www.skinobs.com ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ ○ cosmetic testing platform software Software Company Amic GmbH, [email protected], www.amic.de ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ERP software A.eins Spectro Analytical Instruments GmbH & Co. KG, [email protected] ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ ○ X-Ray fluorescence instruments, www.spectro.com ICP-OES analysers Square, [email protected], www.square.fr ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ● ○ packaging artwork and workflow solutions StratiCell SA / NV, [email protected], www.straticell.com ○ ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ efficacy testing using reconstructed epidermis models Summit Events Ltd., [email protected], www.summit-events.com ○ ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ sun protection conference SystemKosmetik Produktionsges., [email protected] ● ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ private label www.systemkosmetik.de Taiki Cosmetics Europe SA, [email protected] ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ masks www.taikicosmetics.com Total Partners AG, [email protected], www.totalpartners.de ● ○ ○ ○ ● ○ ○ development and supply of retail ready cosmetics, make-up accessories Toyo & Deutsche Aerosol GmbH, [email protected], www.td-aerosol.com ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ 2-in-1 aerosol The Dual Blaevoët Specialised, [email protected], www.blaevoet.com ○ ○ ○ ○ ● ○ ● translations Troostwijk Veilingen B.V., [email protected], ○ ○ ○ ● ○ ● ● online auctions for used machinery www.troostwijkauctions.com and production equipment Wagener & Co. GmbH, [email protected], www.wagener-co.de ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ contract manufacturing Weimako GmbH, [email protected], www.weimako.com ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ biobased, sustainable packaging www.cellpen.de Winopal Forschungsbedarf, [email protected], www.winopal.com ○ ○ ● ○ ○ ○ ○ material testing, texture analysis, fragrance and odour analysis Words4Beauty, [email protected], www.words4beauty.de ○ ○ ○ ○ ● ○ ● translations for cosmetics industry Zellaerosol GmbH, [email protected], www.zellaerosol.de ● ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ production and filling of aerosols and liquids

www.cossma.com l 35 Find your suppliers here!

Check the website with detailed online-information for the personal care industry – news, product innovations, addresses, events, books and these selected internet sites: www.cossma.com/suppliers

Lohnherstellung www.intracosmed.ch www.cortex.dk www.molcare-consulting.com www.azelis.com www.viscotec.de www.merck4cosmetics.com � Kosmetika MARKETING � Medizinprodukte � Arzneimittel SERVICEwww.mawi-chemie.de PROVIDERSwww.meding.comIhr Spezialistwww.neopac.ch für www.ﬂ avex.com www.baycusan.com www.gerschon.de Oral-Care-Produkte

BAV INSTITUT DR. LAUTENBACHERHerstellung SACHVERSTÄNDIGEN Hygiene und Qualitätssicherung (auch ATEX-Explosionsschufz) BÜRO GMBH GmbH flüssige und halbfeste Hanns-Martin-Schleyer-Str. 25 www.biesterfeld- Bahnhofstr. 92 JÜSTRICH COSMETICS AG 77656 Offenburg,www.lohn-pack.com Germany www.pfeiffer-consulting.com Produkte www.intobeauty.ch www.bb-kalkar.de spezialchemie.com www.klar-partner.de 82166 Gräfelfing, Germany Phone: +49 (0)781 969470 Auerstr. 39 Phone: +49Abfüllung, (0)89 82020020 Konfektionierung Fax: +49 (0)781 9694720 9442 Berneck, Switzerland Fax: +49 (0)89 82020022 [email protected] (auch ATEX-Explosionsschufz)Phone: +41 (0)71 7261189 [email protected] www.bav-institut.de [email protected] www.svb-lautenbacher.deTuben, Flaschen, Kanister www.juestrich-cosmetics.ch Contract laboratory for food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical companies; laboratory Safety assessments,� R consultantsezepturentwicklung tests, practical advice and trainingcourses in hygiene and quality inspections www.zellaerosol.de www.seufert.com � Anmeldung vwww.vivacell.de on www.hhac.de www.lutz-packaging.de www.cplaromas.com Medizinprodukten KHK GMBH �Gesundheitspflege-und PharmaprodukteRingstr. 9-11 GmbH � 50996 Köln-Rodenkirchen Konrad-Adenauer-Sir.Germany 3 ETOL GESUNDHEITS D-77704Phone: Oberkirch +49 (0)221 985473-0 PFLEGE- UND PHARMACD (07802)9265-oFax: +49 (0)221 985473-10 www.systemkosmetik.de PRODUKTEwww.sili.eu GMBH [email protected] [email protected] www.inolex.com www.symex.de www.sabinsa.com BB MED. PRODUCT www.etol.dewww.khkgmbh.com Konrad-Adenauer-Str. 3 GMBH Private label lip balm 77704Your Oberkirch, Logo Germany Wöhrmannstr. 15 Phone: +49 (0)7802 92650 47546 Kalkar, Germany Fax: here+49 (0)7802 for 9265165 just Phone: +49 (0)2824 2083-0 [email protected] Fax: +49 (0)2824 4877 www.etol.de 60,– [email protected]/en/ www.bb-kalkar.de private-label www.cossma.com www.vmp-chemiekontor.de www.ballerstaedt.de www.kosmetik-konzept.de www.serac-group.com

CARECOS KOSMETIK GMBH KLAR PARTNER AG

Im Fuchseck 10-12 GEKA GMBH Promenade 9 77694 Kehl, Germanywww.fdcconsulting.de www.geka-world.com www.brenntag-gmbh.com52076 Aachen, Germany www.rationator.com www.minasolve.com Waizendorf 3 Phone: +49 (0)7853 92870 Phone: +49 (0)2408 9509-0 91572 Bechhofen, Germany Fax: +49 (0)7853 928777 Fax: +49 (0)2408 9509-29 Phone: +49 (0)9822 8701 [email protected] [email protected] Fax: +49 (0)9822 87119 www.carecos.de www.klar-partner.de [email protected] Cosmetic full service www.geka-world.com Formulation management + software Your logo can be listed here for just 60,– EUR per month – for further information, please contact Dorothea Michaelis | [email protected] 36 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 phone +49 (0)7243 7278-144

948-16_EA_CosmeticNET.indd 3 20.07.17 17:00 948-16_EA_CosmeticNET.indd 3 here! suppliers your Find phone +49(0)7243 7278-144 |[email protected] Michaelis Dorothea please contact information, further Your –for 60,–EURpermonth just for here logocanbelisted www.cossma.com/suppliers news, product innovations, addresses, events, sites: andthese selected books internet – care industry the personal the website for Check with detailed online-information www.systemkosmetik.de www.fdcconsulting.de www.mawi-chemie.de www.intracosmed.ch www.lohn-pack.com www.lipcare.de/en/ www.zellaerosol.de private-label www.pfeiffer-consulting.com 60,– here for just Logo Your www.geka-world.com www.cossma.com www.meding.com www.seufert.com www.seufert.com www.cortex.dk www.sili.eu www.molcare-consulting.com www.vmp-chemiekontor.de www.brenntag-gmbh.com www.derschlag.com www.intobeauty.ch www.vivacell.de www.neopac.ch www.ballerstaedt.de www.rationator.com www.bb-kalkar.de www.inolex.com www.ﬂ avex.com www.azelis.com www.hhac.de 948-16_EA_CosmeticNET.indd 3

of Made in Germany Contract services for cosmetics – 25 years www.mag-cosmetics.de [email protected] Fax: +49 (0)7142 78987111 Phone: +49 (0)7142 789870 Germany 74321 Bietigheim-Bissingen Rötestr. 7 MAG COSMETICS GMBH www.lohn-pack.com [email protected] Fax: +49 (0)6041 4776 Phone: +49 (0)6041 82280 61197 Florstadt, Germany Dorfwiesenstr. 2 GMBH & CO.KG LOHN-PACK K.A. WOLF www.schmitt-cosmetics.com [email protected] Fax: +49 (0)9263 99990-30 Phone: +49 (0)9263 99990-10 96337 Ludwigsstadt, Germany Lauensteiner Str. 62 L.A. SCHMITT GMBH www.kosmetik-konzept.de [email protected] Fax: +49 (0)4524 7007-199 Phone: +49 (0)4524 7007-0 23684 Scharbeutz, Germany Otto-Kipp-Str. 3 GMBH KOSMETIK KONZEPT www.kosmetik-konzept.de www.lutz-packaging.de www.minasolve.com www.baycusan.com here! suppliers your Find spezialchemie.com www.cossma.com/suppliers news, product innovations, addresses, events, sites: andthese selected books internet – care industry the personal the website for Check with detailed online-information phone +49(0)7243 7278-144 |[email protected] Michaelis Dorothea please contact information, further Your –for 60,–EUR permonth just for here logocanbelisted www.systemkosmetik.de www.viscotec.de www.biesterfeld- www.symex.de www.fdcconsulting.de www.mawi-chemie.de

www.intracosmed.ch www.lohn-pack.com www.lipcare.de/en/

www.zellaerosol.de private-label 948-16_EA_CosmeticNET.indd 3

here! suppliers your Find www.cossma.com/suppliers news, product innovations, addresses, events, sites: andthese selected books internet – care industry the personal the website for Check with detailed online-information phone +49(0)7243 7278-144 |[email protected] Michaelis Dorothea please contact information, further Your –for 60,–EURpermonth just for here logocanbe listed

www.systemkosmetik.de

www.fdcconsulting.de www.mawi-chemie.de

www.intracosmed.ch

www.lohn-pack.com

www.lipcare.de/en/

www.zellaerosol.de

www.pfeiffer-consulting.com

60,– here for just Logo Your private-label

www.geka-world.com www.cossma.com www.meding.com www.seufert.com www.seufert.com www.cortex.dk www.sili.eu www.merck4cosmetics.com www.serac-group.com www.cplaromas.com www.klar-partner.de www.skinovators.com [email protected] Phone: +49 (0)5602 9099470 37235 Hopfelde, Germany Bebersches Feld 1 SKINOVATORS GMBH the cosmetics industry Cosmetic GMP, consulting + seminars for www.pfeiffer-consulting.com [email protected] Phone: +49 (0)7082 9492950 75334 Straubenhardt, Germany Landhausstr. 46 GMBH PFEIFFER CONSULTING DIN EN ISO 13485 EN ISO 9001:2000, pharmaceut.products design, brand management, certified DIN Formulation development, packaging www.systemkosmetik.de [email protected] Fax: +49 (0)8276 58490-99 Phone: +49 (0)8276 58490-0 86692 Münster am Lech, Germany Raiffeisenstr. 2 SYSTEMKOSMETIK GMBH www.sabinsa.com www.gerschon.de www.pfeiffer-consulting.com 60,– here for just Logo Your www.geka-world.com www.cossma.com www.meding.com www.seufert.com www.seufert.com www.cortex.dk www.molcare-consulting.com www.vmp-chemiekontor.de www.brenntag-gmbh.com www.sili.eu www.derschlag.com

948-16_EA_CosmeticNET.indd 3

www.intobeauty.ch www.vivacell.de www.neopac.ch

www.molcare-consulting.com

www.vmp-chemiekontor.de www.brenntag-gmbh.com

20.07.17 17:00 www.derschlag.com

www.intobeauty.ch www.vivacell.de www.neopac.ch

www.ballerstaedt.de here! suppliers your Find www.rationator.com www.bb-kalkar.de www.cossma.com/suppliers news, product innovations, addresses, events, sites: andthese selected books internet – care industry the personal the website for Check with detailed online-information phone +49(0)7243 7278-144 |[email protected] Michaelis Dorothea please contact information, further Your –for 60,–EURpermonth just for here logocanbelisted www.inolex.com www.ﬂ avex.com www.azelis.com Tissue masks, beauty application expertise www.taikicosmetics.com [email protected] Phone: +33 (0)1 41220520 France 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt 32 Rue de Bellevue EUROPE SAS TAIKI COSMETICS Full Contract manufacturing + Filling, www.zellaerosol.de [email protected] Fax: +49 (0)7625 925314 Phone: +49 (0)7625 92530 79669 Zell im Wiesental, Germany Wiesenstr. 13 ZELLAEROSOL GMBH Contract manufacturing & packaging www.wagener-co.de [email protected] Fax: +49 (0)5481 806-200 Phone: +49 (0)5481 806-0 49525 Lengerich, Germany Lohesch 60 WAGENER & CO. GMBH www.hhac.de www.systemkosmetik.de www.fdcconsulting.de www.mawi-chemie.de Service www.intracosmed.ch www.lohn-pack.com www.lipcare.de/en/ www.zellaerosol.de WAGENER &CO GANZ EINFACH: LEISTUNG|seit1964 private-label

www.ballerstaedt.de www.rationator.com

www.bb-kalkar.de www.inolex.com www.ﬂ avex.com www.azelis.com www.hhac.de www.kosmetik-konzept.de

www.lutz-packaging.de www.minasolve.com

www.baycusan.com spezialchemie.com www.viscotec.de www.biesterfeld- www.symex.de

www.cossma.com www.kosmetik-konzept.de www.lutz-packaging.de MARKETING www.minasolve.com www.baycusan.com

spezialchemie.com www.viscotec.de www.biesterfeld- www.symex.de www.merck4cosmetics.com www.pfeiffer-consulting.com 60,– here for just Logo Your www.serac-group.com www.cplaromas.com www.klar-partner.de www.geka-world.com

www.sabinsa.com www.gerschon.de l

www.cossma.com 37 www.meding.com www.seufert.com www.seufert.com www.cortex.dk www.sili.eu

www.merck4cosmetics.com

www.serac-group.com

www.cplaromas.com www.klar-partner.de www.sabinsa.com

www.gerschon.de 20.07.17 17:00 20.07.17 17:00 www.molcare-consulting.com www.vmp-chemiekontor.de www.brenntag-gmbh.com www.derschlag.com www.intobeauty.ch www.vivacell.de www.neopac.ch www.ballerstaedt.de www.rationator.com www.bb-kalkar.de www.inolex.com www.ﬂ avex.com www.azelis.com www.hhac.de www.kosmetik-konzept.de www.lutz-packaging.de www.minasolve.com www.baycusan.com spezialchemie.com www.viscotec.de www.biesterfeld- www.symex.de www.merck4cosmetics.com www.serac-group.com www.cplaromas.com www.klar-partner.de www.sabinsa.com www.gerschon.de 20.07.17 17:00 MARKETING

anuncio Kerascalp 210 mm wide 145 mm high COSMA copia.pdf 1 30/10/2019 8:41:09 Indie brands: Stand out from the crowd For today´s well-being & for tomorrow´s well-aging, Product development | The road to success for indie brands can be long we combined ancient ayurvedic secret and advanced and challenging. Imogen Matthews, Consultant to In-Cosmetics, has picked a botanical research in our latest innovation: number of interesting indie brand concepts that show what it takes to succeed.

C TM

reating a cosmetics brand is adults, sees the rise of indie brands Y KERASCALP

the dream of many entrepre- as revolutionary, invigorating what CM neurs, but bringing this he sees as a rather tired traditional A healthy scalp for a healthy hair C MY dream into reality is another matter cosmetics industry. entirely, proving to be the downfall However, he has noted that many CY

of many an indie brand. However, the newcomers use a strategy based on CMY AUTHOR: desire to bring something new and fear and misinformation as a way of K Acts on scalp aging signs before they appear. Imogen Matthews, Consultant to different to the market continues to cutting through the endless product In-Cosmetics, Oxford, Great Britain Awakes and energizes the scalp for a shinier and stronger hair. inspire would-be brand owners and launches. hardly a day goes by without another “Indie brands have created a problem Rebalances scalp & leaves the hair feeling full of vitality. new launch searching for that elusive which is becoming increasingly de- USP. structive to the industry,” he main- Sam Farmer, founder of eponymous tains. “This is perfectly summed up

unisex personal care brand for young in the recent growth of ‘clean beauty’, Shutterstock.com Amasterphotographer, Harborist,The OTO, photos:

38 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 www.provitalgroup.com MARKETING

“With as many as 40% of people worldwide describing their skin as sensitive, a broader choice is neededd” Kate Porter, Founder, The Harborist

a fantastically asinine marketing awash with products for sensitive An interview with Zeze Oriakhi-Sao term used to describe complex and allergy-prone skin, Kate Por- on the creation of her brand Malée chemical formulations. If one ter found it hard to know what Turning the dream is available at brand is ‘clean’, it infers there are would really work. She tried of creating a www.cossma.com cosmetics brand ‘dirty’ brands.” His approach is to everything from celebrity brand web code: 100328 communicate honestly and di- face wipes and essential oil-in- into reality is a rectly with customers by placing fused balms labelled “suitable for challenge his mobile number on the web- sensitive skin” to French phar- page and on the back of every macy brands, but nothing met her work with who really understand product. It’s a bold approach and needs. the causes of skin reactions. “The certainly helps the Sam Farmer “With as many as 41% of people aim is to create products that ad- brand to stand out. in Europe describing their skin as dress the needs of those with re- The elusive USP is Skin issues that cannot be ad- sensitive, it seemed there was a action-prone skin, yet still have what brand owners dressed by existing products are need for more choice,” maintains keep looking for that feel-good factor, both in terms often the driver for new brands. Porter. And to make that happen, of sensorial qualities and brand Although the cosmetics market is she went in search of scientists to ethics.” This led to the launch of

anuncio Kerascalp 210 mm wide 145 mm high COSMA copia.pdf 1 30/10/2019 8:41:09 – ADVERTISEMENT –

For today´s well-being & for tomorrow´s well-aging, we combined ancient ayurvedic secret and advanced botanical research in our latest innovation:

C TM

Y KERASCALP CM A healthy scalp for a healthy hair MY

CMY

K Acts on scalp aging signs before they appear. Awakes and energizes the scalp for a shinier and stronger hair. Rebalances scalp & leaves the hair feeling full of vitality.

www.cossma.com l 39 www.provitalgroup.com MARKETING

“We wanted to create a premium alternative to CBD products that mostly lack efficacy and enjoyment” Gemma Colao, Managing Director, OTO

the first product in The Harborist nately, that means that consumers range in 2017, a balm-gel cleanser, are confused by the dosage re- which won recognition at the Free quirements of CBD in their prod- From Skin Care Awards in 2018. ucts … and often are not clear on Two new products have been de- whether they are made with CBD veloped and the plan is to launch or hemp oil.” NEW LAUNCHES with UK retailers over the next few Colao recognises that launching come with the months. Harper is also seeking into the CBD market is the start of desire to bring Cosmos certification for all formu- a long journey, but will ensure her something different lations, a partnership with an en- place by testing every product to the market vironmental charity and new col- with extensive consumer trials to laborations with UK labs to gather more feedback and testi- expand the range and substantiate monials on the benefits which “sensitive skin” claims. they publish. “This is critical to Gemma Colao recently entered the building trust and reassurance burgeoning CBD market with with CBD users.” The Harborist cleanser aims for reaction-prone skin OTO, a range of CBD roll-ons de- Luxury beauty brand Malée was signed to reduce anxiety, sleep- launched in 2010 by South African lessness and pain. This autumn, entrepreneur Zeze Oriakhi-Sao, Colao expanded the OTO range who drew on generations of Afri- “We have grown as a result of into facial and body skin care with can healing rituals and time-hon- word of mouth which, in my opin- CBD-based products. oured beauty traditions for her ion, is the best form of market- “We wanted to create a premium formulations. In 2020, she will New brands ing.” alternative to other CBD products launch an 11 SKU range of high are driven by skin She has learnt that the time taken in the market that mostly lacked performance, plant-based facial issues that existing to build a brand should not be products cannot efficacy and enjoyment,” states skin care, backed up by consumer underestimated and advises: address Colao. “During our competitor tests and trials. “The market is al- “Don’t invest excessively in inven- analysis, we found that a lot of ways growing and evolving and I tory if you do not have pre-orders brands are falling short when it believe there is room for brands or clear commitment from cus- comes to the dosage of pure CBD that solve specific needs for their tomers. The money spent in hold- oil in their products. Unfortu- audience,” states Oriakhi-Sao. ing excess inventory will reduce your ability to be nimble and market effectively. Focus on having ten repeat customers, then 100 and then 1,000. You will be sur- prised how many repeat customers it takes to succeed.” The road to success for indie The road to brands can be long and challeng- success for ing: those who succeed do so Indie brands can through a mixture of passion, hard be long and work and belief. Q challenging The indie panel discussion, featuring beauty brand owners, will be moderated by Angelika Meiss at next year’s In-Cosmetics Global Marketing Trends pres- entations in Barcelona, from March 31–April 2, 2020. www.in-cosmetics.com/global/

As the Marketing Trends theatre is a popular educational feature at the event, priority passes OTO, a range of CBD roll-ons designed to reduce anxiety, sleep- for a guaranteed seat in the sessions can be lessness and pain, also includes facial and body skin care booked at www.in-cosmetics.com/register.

40 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 www.cossma.com photos: Vincent Gramain A newperfumeexperience find one’sfind personal favourite fragrance. It qualified this time as our Star of the Month. experience using emotion-led a perfume neuronal headset and to visual interfaces Product development M most positive emotional reaction and ite, theperfumethatbrings themthe brand’s 110 fragrances is their favour perience tofindoutwhich of the France can now discover a new ex- tomers in headset and visual interfaces – cus- Thanks totechnologies –neuronal Tapping technology digital into and sensuous brand campaign. of thefragrance, andthecaptivating bottle, the attractiveness of the face being influencedby thebeautyof own emotionalpreferences without that really corresponds withone’s one’s favourite personal fragrance tion sensors was developed tofind fragrance finder powered by emo one’s own signature fragrance. This perience designed tofind sensory, emotion-ledex indscent Guerlain is | Mindscent is a digital technology for a new sensory, Guerlain’s boutiques in new - - - mer President andCEOofthe vour tothatoffragrance, Taking aleapfrom theworld offla- How itworks as they are perceived by thebrain. most feelings can be detected as soon visual interfaces, someofourinner- nologies suchas neuron caps and rokiff ital atNantes University, heand intelligence. As Vice-President ofdig pleted extensive research onartificial a French researcher whohas com team worked with Francky Trichet, lain House Mindscent best matches their personality. For grance from Guerlain’s 110 house fra- was created tofindthepreferred fra- plying the very latest in digital tech- ure when tasting food or wine. Ap- product capable of measuring pleas- researchers have developed a , and the digital innovation , Laurent Boillot,thefor- Mindscent Guer Neu - - - -

www.guerlain.com Paris before being rolled out internationally. Vendôme and rue des Francs-Bourgeois boutiques in Elysées store is initially available at the Guerlain Place The Mindscent app unveiled at Guerlain’s 68 Champs- by emailoronsocialmedia. just afew secondsandcanbeshared match isdisplayed onthescreen in the boutiques, theirperfectperfume among the110 fragrances available in ing several recommendations from recommendations are tried.Aftertest fragrances’ identities, afew without knowing anything aboutthe tomer’s feelingstoguidethem.Then, neuronal sensor analyses thecus looking at aspirational images. The answering afew questions while floral, oriental and woody – before distinct fragrance families –fresh, people are invited toblindtest four a neuronal headset has been fitted, the helpofasales consultant. Once grances inonlythree minutes with

Month

www.cossma.com Star OF THE MARKETING Guerlain l

41 Q - -

SPOTLIGHT: GREEN SPOTLIGHT: PACKAGING 42 l

COSSMA 12 I2019 Lyne Hélène Bouchard,SalesandMarketing Director Louvrette, Company, aQuadpack Germany Kierspe, www.louvrette.de, www.quadpack.com Bouchard from Louvrette, a Quadpack Company, explains. packaging: recycle, replace, reuse and reduce, as Lyne Hélène routesfour complementary to which offers sustainable Packaging A broadening choice | Repack is a sustainable approach to packaging AUTHOR:

S works inbothfieldsto optimisesus- As apackaging provider, Quadpack and processes. to consider two key areas: products can beadaunting task, but ithelps packaging? Navigating the options vegan andorganic, what aboutthe As formulas becomeadditive-free, beauty brands are eager to deliver. day. Consumers demanditand topic inthebeautysectorto- ustainability. Itisthehottest clearer as well as easier toincorpo- major impact, the options become but, by focusingonthefourareas of Ideally, itwould embrace allfour– can applytoaproduct. Of course, more than one category reuse andreduce. tainable packaging: recycle, four complementary routes tosus out a strategy called opment, thecompany has mapped tainability. In terms of product devel Repack, offering replace, - -

photos: Quadpack; Serato (lead photo), Shutterstock.com SPOTLIGHT: GREEN PACKAGING

rate on the drawing board and be- of an ever-growing range of mo- yond. no-material solutions.

Recycle: Meeting the demand Replace: Alternatives for for recyclable materials disposable components By developing packaging solu- Renewable, biodegradable and re- tions that challenge the industry cycled materials are gradually re- norm, our company answers to placing disposable and fos- market demands for recyclable sil-based components. We are materials. From glass packs to mo- continually investigating advances no-materials, polypropylene (PP), in materials to incorporate in our polyethylene (PET) and post-con- packaging, testing ground-break- The YouWood lipstick has an optional refilling mechanism sumer recycled (PCR) plastic coming alternatives such as Sulapac, ponents, our product develop- which uses waste-stream cellulose ment also aims to enhance from the wood industry. disassembling and facilitate recy- The Kierspe factory is able to in- cling. corporate PCR from ocean-waste Spain introduced the first wooden Mono-material packaging makes plastics, PRCR PET and recyclable cap for Burberry Touch for women recycling much easier by eliminat- PET. While injection-moulding WOOD back in 2001. Quadpack Wood ing the need to separate compo- traditionally uses PETG, as it is is another sustain- sources its raw materials from sus- nents altogether. The SusPET jar, easier to inject, the experts at the able material The tainably-managed forests and is produced in Kierspe, Germany, at factory have successfully devel- first wooden cap producing gorgeous standard and for Burberry Touch the injection-moulding facility of oped an injected PET bottle bespoke solutions for the leading for women was Louvrette, a Quadpack Company, which, unlike PETG, can be fully brands. It recently developed an introduced in 2001 and the Light Cream Jar, made en- recycled. eco-friendly pack for German tirely of PP at the Quadpack Plas- Wood is another sustainable ma- brand Cult Care’s new unisex tics factory in Spain, are just two terial captivating the beauty sec- pro-biotic face cream. The pack tor, ever since our wood factory in includes a 60ml glass jar and an engraved cap made of sustainably-sourced ash. “We will be introducing more intuitive Injection-moulding Reuse: Refill solutions for and hygienic refill concepts” traditionally uses waste reduction PETG, as it is Our company has developed Lyne Hélène Bouchard, Sales and Marketing Director, Louvrette easier to inject high-quality refill solutions to reduce waste and minimise carbon footprint. The reuse concept is behind our lines such as the Eco-warrior fragrance pack, as well as lipsticks, jars and airless refill system packs. Refillable jars have always fea- Some 80% of the tured in our portfolio. Some 80% jar production at of the jar production at the Kier- the Kierspe factory spe factory is refillable today. This is refillable today concept is now being improved upon to modernise the options available and we will be introducing more intuitive and hygienic concepts. Louvrette’s airless systems will be refillable from the beginning of Refill solutions next year – a new patented system reduce waste and will be on the market for luxuri- minimise carbon ous, refillable packaging. In addi- footprint tion, Quadpack already offers re- Quadpack’s refillable Eco-warrior is a slim 13% lighter fillable airless solutions from its glass bottle which can easily be disassembled Korean partner Yonwoo, such as

www.cossma.com l 43 SPOTLIGHT: GREEN PACKAGING

The ecological version of the thick-walled jars uses up to 50% less material without a notable difference

its popular Show Bottle, a pack products. From lighter but resist- or reused. A PP pump screw neck which combines Yonwoo’s airless ant glass bottles to weight-reduced is effortless to detach. The cap RECYCLING protection with a test tube shape plastic jars, all creations are care- comes in cork or sustaina- uses waste- that inspires consumer confi- stream cellulose fully developed to avoid any extra bly-sourced wood, both of which dence. from the wood load – saving carbon and money. are biodegradable. In make-up, Quadpack recently industry The Regula Light jar and Konico extended the YouWood range with Light jar produced at the Kierspe Processes: Adopting a lipstick with an optional refilling factory meet functional and aes- sustainable practices mechanism that is easy to re- thetic requirements for thick- The four categories of Repack charge and provides an intuitive, walled jars but are more ecologi- cover the most important areas of cost- and residue-saving feature. cal to produce. Using up to 50% sustainable product development. less material, they have the same As mentioned before, however, Reduce: Cutting down the size impression as their thick- the issue goes beyond product and At the Kierspe amount of material walled counterparts. To the con- must include processes. Like any- factory, PCR from The reduce option looks at cutting sumer, there is no notable differ- one involved in the beauty value ocean-waste down on the amount of material ence in the finished product. chain, packagers need to adopt plastics, PCR PET in a product. High-quality packag- and recyclable PET ing with reduced material usage is incorporated is the perfect blend that drives our company’s sustainable line of “We ultimately seek to manufacture in the region, for the region” Lyne Hélène Bouchard, Sales and Marketing Director, Louvrette

An injected PET bottle has been Production requires less energy sustainable practices in all areas developed which, and there is less wastage because of their business. unlike PETG, can be there is no shrinkage. What’s Every effort is made to ensure the fully recycled more, they are offered with a spe- lowest possible carbon footprint cial additive to enable a matt fin- along our global supply chain and ish without lacquering. our own factories, ultimately Star within all four categories is seeking to manufacture in the re- Eco-warrior, a brand-new fra- gion, for the region. grance pack that pushes sustaina- In Europe, our company is work- bility to its limits. With a bottle ing hard to minimise the environ- made of lightweight glass, infor- mental impact of our manufactur- Louvrette’s airless mation can be engraved directly ing plants. A number of initiatives systems will be on the surface, exempting the have already been undertaken. refillable from the need for paper or ink decoration. At the Kierspe factory, a ventila- The refillable airless Show Bottle from beginning of 2020 the Korean partner Yonwoo combines Designed to be refillable, it can be tion system has been installed at airless protection with a test tube shape easily disassembled and recycled the injection department as part

44 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 SPOTLIGHT: GREEN PACKAGING

“We ultimately seek to manufacture in the region, for the region” Lyne Hélène Bouchard, Sales and Marketing Director, Louvrette

of a controlled energy management programme. The state-of-the-art system is very efficient and requires less energy to complete more work. The heat produced by the injection machinery is utilised to warm the office areas. Conversely, it takes advantage of the low local temperatures outside to cool the machinery and production areas. All scrap material is sorted and recycled and thermoformed trays are col- lected to be reused over and over Cult Care’s new unisex pro-biotic face cream features an again. engraved cap made of sustainably-sourced ash New trays are produced using recycled and or recyclable material, so that the chain is complete. We are sions control system ensures its facil- As a company which partners with working to increase the number of ities exceed environmental regula- others in a hybrid manufacturing/ customers that are involved in this tions now and in the future. sourcing model, we engage with our system. All production waste is recycled into suppliers, as well as customers, to Our company’s Spanish manufactur- animal bedding, chipboard and bio- encourage sustainability. ing division and head office run en- fuel, while an executive project has Supplier conferences and roadshows tirely on renewable energy, saving been completed that will see sawdust are just some of the touchpoints more than 1,400 tons of CO2 over the waste converted to energy for heating where we share our knowledge and last year. and cooling. exchanges ideas and best practice. Quadpack Plastics is developing a The possibility of powering all pro- process to repurpose waste by-prod- duction at the factory with solar en- A sustainable future uct into new packaging material. At ergy is also being studied at the mo- These initiatives are all integral to our Quadpack Wood, a bespoke emis- ment. work towards our chosen sustainable development goals, as part of our commitment to the UN Global Com- pact, which we joined in March 2018. As a result of these combined efforts, our company holds a silver medal from sustainability platform Eco- Vadis.

Easing the path to sustainability Our aim is to increase our positive impact on society, while reducing our negative impact on the environment. By offering stakeholders a clear set of guidelines, backed by responsible practices, we aim to ease the path towards sustainability – for our- selves, for the industry and for the A broadening choice for colour cosmetics planet we call home. Q

www.cossma.com l 45 SPOTLIGHT: GREEN PACKAGING

An approach to eco-friendly packaging

Packaging | Philipp Wolansky from Awantys talks about the challenges involved for the plastic packaging industry when it comes to reducing global greenhouse gas emissions. Find out what his solution is.

46 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 SPOTLIGHT: GREEN PACKAGING

ive years ago, U.S. President sonal care industry is forced to Barack Obama diagnosed: find alternatives to conventional F“The debate [on whether plastics in order to drastically re- there is climate change] is settled. duce its contribution to GHG Climate change is a fact”1. While Many distribu- emissions6, irrespective of one’s the ratification of the Paris Agree- tion partners want point of view on climate change. ment from 2016 by de facto 187-1 either to elimi- As a consequence, the sector is parties illustrates that Obama’s nate plastics predominantly rushed by three completely from view has been globally accepted2,3 groups of stakeholders: their products’ in the meantime, we are nowa- . Currently, 16% of end con- packaging or to 1 days facing the controversy on an- use 100% reus- sumers in Europe, North Amer- other question: What must each able, recyclable or ica and Asia have stopped buy- stakeholder contribute in order to compostable pack- ing personal care products due slash global greenhouse gas aging by 2025 to environmental concerns7. (GHG) emissions to a level that Regarding packaging, research limits the rise of the global aver- suggests that 75% of European age temperature to ‘well below’ end consumers are now influ- two degrees Celsius? enced in their purchasing decisions by the environmental impact of a product’s packaging The challenge (fig. 2)8.

Examining the drivers of CO2 2. The avalanche of distribu- emissions, a recent study by the tion partners’ announcements Centre of International Environmen- to either eliminate plastics tal Law (CIEL) predicts the GHG completely from their prod- emissions of plastics to more than ucts’ packaging (e.g., Iceland, triple by 20504. This development the U.K.9) or to use 100% reus- is over-proportionally driven by THE GLOBAL able, recyclable or compostable the emissions of plastic packaging trend of intro- packaging by 2025 (e.g., Wal- 10 11 12 which represents more than 40% ducing carbon mart , Carrefour , Boots , of all plastics and will grow by pricing schemes Lidl13) sets a benchmark for more than 700% (fig. 1). CIEL un- will put plastic private label manufacturers as derlines that up to 90% of plastics’ prices under well as for brand and license emissions originate from the gen- pressure owners. The latter are particu- eration of plastic (i.e., particularly larly sensitive since they are extraction of raw material, trans- traditionally in a challenging portation and refining) as more position when it comes to re- than 90% of their feedstocks is sisting distributors’ demands12. petrochemical. Hence, plastics’ 3. Legislators have begun to share of the annual global oil con- limit the use of conventional sumption will increase from 6% plastics in consumer goods by to 20% between 2014 and 2050 as either prohibiting their use forecasted by the Ellen MacArthur (e.g., ban on single-use plastic Foundation (EMAF)5. items in the E.U. as of 202114) As a result, EMAF projects that in or by stipulating the share of 2050 GHG emissions from the recyclate in plastic packaging plastic lifecycle will constitute up (30% in the E.U. as of 203014). to 15% of the global annual emis- With more than Prominent voices calling for sion budget as defined by the Paris 60% of its pack- tighter regulations of plastics Agreement. Looking at the global aging made are on the rise. trend of introducing carbon pric- from plastics, AUTHOR: ing schemes, this needs to be fac- the personal care The implications Philipp Wolansky, Deputy CEO industry needs to Awantys, Wiehl, Germany tored into plastic prices going for- In the light of this disruptive trin- find alternatives www.awantys.com ward. ity, cosmetics manufacturers must to conventional And why is this a challenge for the define their plastics strategy. Re- plastics cosmetics industry? ducing or even eliminating pack- With more than 60% of its packaging as done by Lush for a range aging made from plastics, the per- of ‘naked’ products is one avenue

www.cossma.com l 47 Source: Center for nternational Environmental Law(Ciel), 2019 fig. 3: fig. Concept of the new plastics circular economy (based on tons of CO 1: fig. Global greenhouse gas emission index GREEN SPOTLIGHT: PACKAGING 48 decision by the environmental impact of a product’s packaging 2: fig. Shares in of theirconsumers affected purchasing Source: Coleman Parks Research, 2018 Source: Adapted based Foundation,on Ellen 2018,MacArthur WWF, 2019 68% l UK

COSSMA 12 I2019 1.0 69% FR Plastic packagingonly Plastics total “The newcompoundcanbeprocessedinconventionalinjection 1.0 2019 Philipp Wolansky, CEO,Deputy Awantys moulds anddecorated withestablished technologies” 75% 2 emitted p.a.) IT 75% 1.6 TR 77% DE 2.4 2030 77% PL 3.3 81% ES 8.3 75% 2050 ø to to 2025 sets a bench The announcement buying personal The environmental turers turers and brand/ care products due or compostable or compostable able, recyclable America America and Asia their impact of a prod to environmental influences 75%influences mark mark for private of European end uct’s packaging by packaging by label manufac consumers in license owners use 100% reus have stopped Europe, North Europe, North consumers consumers in 16% of end decision concerns concerns purchasing purchasing - - - - • • omy: ples ofacircular plastics econ Fig. 3 depicts three basic princi- cisely, does thismean? E.C. VPJyrkiKatainen. What,pre economy […]”,as summarisedby dations foranew circular plastics Strategy that lays “[…] the foun- pants through itsE.U. Plastics guardrails for all market partici Commission (E.C.)has setclear ble. As aresult, theEuropean tics completelyseems inconceiva to explore. Yet, ceasing touseplas • petrol-/gas-based production GHG emissions comefrom its 90% ofconventional plastics’ cular economy. Sinceupto ways beadded—even inacir- cling, virgin materialmust al- and aqualityloss through recy- Due toanincreasing demand virgin plastics. fossil feedstocks to generate A renunciation ofexploiting process based plastics in the recycling technologies for sorting bio- ment thealready available must also be deployed to imple- Institute ing totheFraunhofer more efficient”whichaccord- for “makingrecycling processes promised anine-digitbudget For this purpose, the E.C. has rates. recycling of increase An streams would cause than 1%ofbioplastics inwaste tamination rates than theless operators accept higher con- comprehensible sincerecycling ‘pure’ streams whichisnot are separated from thesix based which are onlypartlybio- in solutions’ suchas Bio-PET materials. That excludes ‘drop- conversion to100% bio-based climate changerequires the an honest attempt tocombat 16 16 . . Presently, thelatter 16 . Yet, the 4 - - - - - ,

photos and figures: Awantys, Weedezign (lead photo), Shutterstock.com SPOTLIGHT: GREEN PACKAGING

Awyverde is a new line of sustainable primary packaging for customised and standardised designs

currently low recycling rates even sists of abundant minerals such as REACH/SVHC, food safety, migra- in highly developed economic are- chalk. Neither crude oil nor coal or tion properties (Reg. 10/2011 (EU)), as (e.g., E.U. 30%17; U.S. less than natural gas need to be extracted and OK Compost Industrial (by TÜV Aus- 10%, and declining18), illustrate refined but RCM-1801 is produced tria) as well as a proof of its non-pet- that a significant share of global through compounding. This is why rochemical origin. plastics will still leave the cycle in the production of this material sig- As Ted Turner, Chairman of the the foreseeable future. nificantly reduces GHG emissions United Nations Foundation’s board of • That is why a controlled after-use along the value chain. directors, maintained: “We can turn management will be a key lever to In addition, producing Awyverde pri- things around — but we must move reducing plastics’ negative envi- mary packaging does not require any beyond climate talk to climate ac- ronmental impacts. Besides the re- special investments, as RCM-1801 tion”. usability of a plastic item, a plas- can be processed in conventional in- Obviously, a biocompound such as tic’s (industrial) compostability as jection moulds and decorated with the one used for our packaging line a means to return nutrients to the established technologies such as var- Awyverde will not solve all environ- soil is vital in a circular economy nishing or silk-screen printing. mental issues caused by plastics. as emphasised by EMAF5. Up to RCM-1801 can be recycled and may It is, however, an effective now, a large share of waste plas- be disposed in the recycling bin and ready-to-use contri- tics leaks into the environment (code 7). What is more, the material bution to combatting globally (~37% according to the is certified for industrial composting climate change. Q 19 WWF ). In the future, a plastic’s (OK Compost by TÜV Austria). Its bi- The reference list is biodegradability will be key to odegradation takes five to ten years available in the online version minimising the effects on the en- depending on the conditions and ge- of the article vironment. ometry of the parts and releases valuable substances such as carbonate A solution of calcium contained in chalk. In In the light of the complexity of the contrast, fossil-based plastics take current situation, our company has about 450 years to decompose. launched Awyverde, a new line of Third party certificates confirm- 29 & 30 January 2020 sustainable primary packaging for ing the suitability of RCM- Paris Expo Porte de Versailles skin care, make-up and fragrances 1801 to be used for pri- for customised and standardised de- mary cosmetic signs. The line is based on RCM- packaging are avail- The world’s leading event for perfume, 1801. This biocompound can be pro- able and include cosmetics and premium drinks packaging duced at a very competitive price but are not level, 30–90% below that of known limited to and aerosol technology bioplastics such as PLA or PHB. In line with the demands set by a circular economy, it is 100% non-petrochemical. Two thirds of the raw materials are renewable (e.g., rice bran wax) while one third con- Register for FREE using this code: COSS20 www.adfpcdparis.com

Easyfairs_ADFPCDPLD_166x166_Code_.indd 1 13/11/2019 13:29:14 PACKAGING 50 l

COSSMA 12 I2019 H and economic performance, all of centrating onsocial,environmental part of the triple threat strategy con- form inFrance. Those initiatives are will also set upitsown logistics plat- total packaging weight. Thebrand PP canrepresent up to87%ofthe Ecocert labelledairless bottles. PCR PYC-Europe www.heinz-glas.com this elegantlyshapedbottle. emissions were reduced by 46% with dimensions. MaterialuseandCO both bottles have identical external 125 grams. Interestingly enough, 150 mlVictor light bottle weighs only bottle weighs 230 grams whilethe gance. The standard Victor 100 ml ness equatingtoqualityandele acts thegeneral mentality ofheavi- German Packaging Award. Itcounter- category sustainabilityof the Lightweight, einz-Glas presented Victor has developed 6 lines of the winnerin 2 -

formance. Thematerialissuitablefor without compromising overall per plastic reduces environmental impact harvested trees. The BPA-free bio is cellulose derived from sustainably key raw materialusedtomake Tr ēva perience with polarised light. The the rainbow effectsomeplastics ex- Its low birefringence caneliminate thin walls, enablingdesign freedom. with complicatedpartsandinfilling characteristics allow it tobeused skin oils and sunscreens. Its flow ing bioplastics tochemicalsincluding stands up better than other engineer Due toitschemicalresistance, it and reduced environmental impact. that offers both good performance is acellulose-based thermoplastic Eastman Trēva engineeringbioplastic www.cosmogen.fr vation policy. by aresponsible andvisionary inno- which are embodiedand supported - - - packaging trends of today. of the novelties and luxury provided a global vision innovations presented shows. The launches and as this review clearly Luxe Pack in Monaco at everywhere this year’s development was present Events update a Luxury cessories (push dropper, dropper, A widechoiceofinterchangeable ac- pack suitable for prestige products. glass withathickbase makes the two sizes. Itshigh 100% recyclable a square shape and is available in Collection family,tion totheVip has Squared, thelatest addi- Vip Premi’s www.eastman.com mer. Poly performance benefitsofGlass without compromising many ofthe PCR contentitdelivers sustainability pounded polyesters. With40percent sumer recycled content (PCR)com- a new line of propprietary post-con- Polyester is Co Revēl Cristal Eastman mance, safetyoraesthetics. material withnodrop-off inperfor - porates ahighpercentage ofrecycled (ACR), Utilising advanced circular recycling packaging. opaque andcolour-tintedcosmetics | Sustainable Eastman Cristal EV600 incor- Cristal -

photos: Aptar, @DR JLO/Designer Parfums, Eastman, Geka, Heinz, Luxe Pack, Premi, Silgan, Texen, Verescence PACKAGING

flocked applicator, spray pump and cal studies. It is offered with an eco- roll-on) allow to create infinite com- friendly brush, made by Ponzini. binations. The pack can be custom- www.ponzini.com, www.texen.com ised thanks to the versatility of the material glass which can be en- Toly presented a number of material hanced with decorating techniques and design-based solutions to the such as 3D laser or inkjet. challenge of sustainability. Ecozen www.premispa.com Claro is partly made from renewable resources which means one of the Silgan’s expanded PCR beauty and monomers comes from a source personal care product portfolio in Eu- other than oil. Claro is also semi crys- rope now includes an additional dis- talline which means that it can be penser and skin care pump. The dis- recycled with PET. Sulapac is both penser P2000 features the Pure Path bio-based (non-oil) and biodegrada- metal-free fluid path used for the ble. It is partly made out of wood and Geka’s Polymorphe concept: An inner bottle to be combined with metal shells in different shapes most sensitive formulas, and the Aria is claimed to biodegrade faster than Prelude pump provide a cleaner and untreated wood. Sulapac biodegrades more controlled experience. The ex- completely leaving no trace; i.e. no isting PCR solutions include the micro-plastic. Toly also presented SD20c pump and the Mark VII Max various sustainable beauty-packag- fine mist sprayer, which launched ing solutions for both make-up and earlier this year skin care. The company’s refill con- www.silgandispensing.com cepts include their newly introduced refillable lipstick and a wide selection Texen’s first eco-designed standard of compacts. Geka’s exclusive two-com- mascara was developed with the www.toly.com ponent fibre for more volume know-how of its Mayet factory in France and the Texen Lab’s work on Packaging solutions materials. The result is a pack that is beyond a green approach both sustainable and made in Eu- Aptar Beauty + Home, Capsum and product with just one click thanks to rope. The mascara is part of the com- Strand Cosmetics Europe created a the express combination of a skin pany’s eco-design strategy built customisable foundation that can be care or make-up product and a around the Three Rs – Reduce, Reuse, customised as desired. The aim was booster. To create this colour and Recycle. The pack is made from re- to create a foundation compatible care solution inspired by the skincare cycled (PCR) or bio-sourced material with the Neomix packaging, a bottle make-up trend, Strand Cosmetics de- sourced from the company’s materi- with a double dispensing system that veloped compatible foundations and als library and selected after techni- allows the consumer to create a new activator formulas that can compen- sate for colour variations in skin tone over the seasons or provide the perfect dose of glow. Consumers can add to their foundation – available in two light and medium shades for a flawless skin finish – a personalised booster with a choice of two results: a colour-activating serum to adjust the foundation’s shade and match their tan or a light-activating serum available in three effects to give skin a subtle pearly sheen to adjust the shade to suit the occasion. Aptar’s Aptar’s Star Drop is an alternative application method for very fluid foundations Star Drop is an alternative application method for very fluid foundations. The bottle has a new generation valve capable of releasing just the right amount of product drop by drop for a tailor-made dose for ergonomic, Aptar’s Neomix bottle with a double dispensing system for creating a hygienic and waste-free application. new product with just one click Its pipette holds two patents: a cut-

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new CharmingLashes brush features the exclusive two-component EOS- bombyx2K fibre. Its notches serve as bulk reservoir zones and act as volume boosters. Thanks to the two-component fibre with the soft outer shell, the application feels smooth, while the stiff fibre core helps to lift-up the lashes. The Poly- Silgan’s Silgan’s expanded PCR beauty morphe mascara packaging concept Premi’s quare-shaped packaging in recyclable glass and personal care product portfolio is based on a standard inner-bottle with a basic round form that can be used in combination with metal outer shells in a variety of shapes without any need of adjusting the inside bottle. Parts get easily con- nected by a special adapter. Addition- ally, the surface of the metal makes the product a high-quality, high-end Eastman’s jars with 40% PCR content packaging option for all brands. The collection consists of 4 polymorph mascara versions and is playing with new design solutions by using the Texen’s frst eco-designed Heinz Glas: 46% less adapter as a fashion element. The standard mascara material for the light version squared as well as the round version are shown one time with integrated non-visible adapter ring and one time Eastman with visible adapter, highlighted as Cristal EV600 extra design feature. with high www.geka-world.com percentages of recycled Eastman’s Trēva for opaque material and colour-tinted packaging Stoelzle presented the worldwide launch in progress of the designer perfume Promise De Jennifer Lopez. The bottle shows vivid engravings on which a metal plate, the brand’s sig- off base that avoids squirts as well as PureObsession offers sophisticated nature, has just been placed in the a tip, designed to form a beautiful decoration effects on elegant packag- hollow. The fragrance’s colour takes drop. The dispenser is reusable, ing, paired with high-performance on all its light through all the facets while the bottle is recyclable. applicators. The collection includes of the bottle. www.aptar.com, www.capsum.net, a mascara, a lip gloss, a liquid con- www.stoelzle.com www.strandcosmeticseurope.com cealer, a liquid eyeshadow as well as Geka presented two new product col- a multi-benefit make-up brush and a Verescence has also manufactured a lections. The premium collection sophisticated clutch. The mascara’s disruptive glass bottle with its Sculpt’in technology for Illuminare by American lifestyle brand Vince Camuto. N N LUXE PACK MONACO AT A GLANCE The design of the bottle was inspired The 33rd Luxe Pack Monaco had a total of 9,240 visitors, 52% of which were international by the glassworks from Murano, visitors from 98 countries. Attendance from the Middle East grew by 20% with visitors evoking the feminine and sensual from Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, the United Arab Emirates, Kuwait, Qatar, and the Sultanate of curves of a woman. Oman. New visitors made the trip from Ghana, Gambia, Gabon, Cambodia, and the Philip- The asymmetrical organic inner pines. Visitors from Switzerland, Belgium, Finland and Romania are on the rise as are shape was realised thanks to Veres- those from the United States, China, Japan, India, and South Korea. cence’s patented technology, creating The Luxe Pack in Green Award winners were Edelman in packaging solutions, Eastman in a play of light with the rounded outer CSR initiatives. The conferences and debates were attended by a record number of 2,000 shape of the moulded glass and the people. The session, dedicated to sustainable development, attracted over 550 people. delicate pink hue fragrance. Q www.luxepack.com www.verescence.com

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News News OF THE Month 100% RECYCLED AEROSOL WINNERS

Closes magnetically

Magnetic New design options of Ball’s 360° technology BAKIC | The com- Reduction of 20,500 tonnes of virgin plastic per year pany’s magnetic AEROBAL* | And this year’s winners lipsticks has a of Aerobal’s Aerosol Can Award UNILEVER | Dove moves to 100% recycled plastic bottles, magnet technology 2019 are: US manufacturer Ball and plastic-free packs by reducing the use of virgin plastic by in the cap and the Corporation was the winner in the more than 20,500 tonnes per year. Next year its beauty bar base so that the the prototype category with its 360° single packs will be plastic-free globally, and development is lipstick almost closes technology, which enables a wide underway to replace the plastic outer-wrap of its beauty bar by itself and also range of shapes to be created over the multipacks with a zero-plastic material. New 100% recycled remains closed, even entire circumference of the aluminium plastic (PCR) bottles where technically feasible, will be if it is loose in the can. The technology is not restricted to launched in North America and Europe by the end of 2019 handbag or jacket stock shapes but can also produce the – across all ranges. Dove’s new reusable, refillable, stainless pocket. proprietary shapes that the customer steel format deodorant sticks Minim minimises waste by www.bakic.com wants. A special graphic design, which reducing the amount of plastic required. is aligned to the respective relief area, www.unilever.com further enhances the shape’s visual Massager tip impact. The shape gives added grip VIROSPACK | Viro- and is thus a user-friendly ergonomic spack’s new dropper is plus. The 360° technology only comes Recyclable equipped with a mas- into its own when the lithography and embossing interact with this process ESSEL PROPACK | Essel technology. Propack’s Platina and Green The winner among the aluminium Maple Leaf (GML) lamitubes for cans already on the market was oral care, beauty and cosmetics are Coombs Family Farms Maple Stream recyclable. Certified by the Asso- produced by Montebello Packaging ciation of Plastic Recyclers (APR) of Canada. The can has a special in the USA, they can be recycled in shoulder shape for convenient han- the HDPE stream. Both versions will dling and was produced with a white be offered in a HDPE base which For complete skin base coating in dry offset printed falls under the Code-2 plastic care collections Recyclable in the graphics with gloss over varnish. HDPE stream used across the globe for sham- sage tip made of derma- Ten specialist journalists from four different continents poo bottles. The solid tubes have tologically tested met- including Angelika Meiss from COSSMA magazine all required barrier properties, are sturdy and have a bounce al for a cooling effect chose this year’s winners. * International Organisation of Aluminium Aerosol back retaining shape of the tube till end of use. to skin. Container Manufacturers www.esselpropack.com www.virospack.com www.aerobal.org

Sustainable packaging portfolio

GERRESHEIMER | Gerresheimer offers a broad standard range of plastic packaging and customized solutions made from PET, R-PET, and BIO-PET plastics. The company uses recycled materials to make plastic and glass packaging for cosmetics. Containers can be made from up to 100% R-PET. PET-bottles could be made out of up to 100 percent R-PET.

photos: Aerobal, Bakic, Essel Propack, Dove, Gerresheimer, Virospack Gerresheimer, Dove, Propack, Essel Bakic, Aerobal, photos: Up to 100% made of R-PET www.gerresheimer.com

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Hong Kong winners and more

Events | This is our first overview of this year’s Cosmoprof and Cosmopack Asia in Hong Kong, with a focus on the winners of this year’s Cosmoprof and Cosmopack Asia Awards, COSSMA’s roundtable at the show and the Korean, Italian and German participation.

unning from 12–15 November moisturising, whitening, repairing The foot care spray with its exfoliat- 2019, Cosmoprof Asia hosted and oil control properties provides ing and hydrating ingredients re- R2,955 exhibitors from 48 dif- easy multi-mask application. moves dry skin and calluses. ferent countries and regions, show- Dear Dahlia from Korea had the win- In the category natural & organic the casing their new products and ser- ning make-up product. Their Paradise winner was 100% Nature Powder Se- vices across two venues. Dream Velvet Lip Mousse is a weight- rum Smooth & Comfy from Teana Lab- less 100% vegan lip formula with oratories in Russia. The combination And the winners are ... antioxidant and moisturising proper- of loose powder with a moisturising The 10 winning companies of the ties combining lipstick pigment, lip serum is anti-inflammatory and mat- Cosmoprof Asia and Cosmopack Asia tint and a matte finish. tifying. Awards organised with Beautystreams Kemon from Italy won in the hair The winner of the visitor’s choice was were chosen from among 614 entries, product category with their Actyva the Protect & Repair B Perfect Triple an increase of 16% compared with Specifici Cute Gel Base, a regenerating Action formulation by N&B. The foun- the last edition. gel with prebiotic grapevine sap and dation, anti-aging serum and an- plant extracts to modulate scalp mi- ti-pollution product with SPF 15 pro- The Cosmoprof Asia winners croflora, nourish scalp cells and in- tection smoothens the skin. Tenart Biotech from Taiwan, the win- crease scalp elasticity. ners in the category professional and Lovaskin Instant Foot Peeling from the The Cosmopack Asia winners retail, won with the product Masking- Swiss company Novellia Beauty won SinoMach Technologies from Hong dom. The clay mask stick with its in the category hand and nail product. Kong were the winners in the cate-

“A first analysis shows that for most of the German exhibitors the expectations were exceeded – a cautious optimism” Birgit Huber, Deputy Director General of the German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association photos: Cosmetica Italia, Cosmoprof, IKW Cosmoprof, Italia, Cosmetica photos:

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“Cosmoprof Asia confirmed itself as the most important fair in the Asia-Pacific region for the beauty industry” Renato Ancorotti, President of Cosmetica Italia

gory skin care formula. Precision Skin supplier and Erwin Schuster from face and body products. In 2018, this Care Non-Uniform Partition Face Mask Geka, a packaging company focusing category with a value of 127 million customers can use the app developed on packaging systems and applica- euros and a growth of +29% repre- by Dr Goethe Cosmetics to scan their tors. sented more than half of Italian cos- skin, locate problem areas, and then They all presented their latest metics exports to this market, fol- use the face mask that delivers dif- achievements before entering into a lowed by alcohol-based perfume ferent serums to precise facial areas discussion on what challenges are products, with a value of almost 82 accordingly. involved in creating ever more sus- million Euros and a growth of over 8 The winner in the category sustaina- tainable innovations in future. percentage points, and make-up ble was Coreana Bio from Korea. products with 19.3 million Euros. Their Invisible Airy Patch Innovative Country pavilions at a glance Skin Protection delivers skin protec- 24 country, region and group pavil- German Pavilion tion thanks to Extra Cellular Matrix ions showcased new projects from with cautious optimism and Skin Bio Ink via an ultra-fine na- around the globe. This year, 46 companies participated nosheet. As the Country of Honour this year, in the German Pavilion. “The expec- The category skin care packaging saw Korea showcased around 600 compa- tations were not as high as in previ- Virospack as a winner for its Secure nies across all sectors and presented ous years due to the current political Dropper. This cosmetic dropper with seminars and live demonstrations of situation. A first analysis shows that a new safety-lock is childproof. what is new in K-Beauty. for most of the German exhibitors the Global Cosmetics from Hong Kong expectations were exceeded. There won in the category make-up formula Strong Italian representation were many fruitful discussions and with their Emulsion Colour Changing 100 Italian companies, half of which more time for constructive meet- Lipstick. This lipstick with its hydro are Cosmetica Italia members, exhib- ings”, was the conclusion that Birgit emulsion technology reveals its col- ited in Hong Kong, where exports of Huber, Deputy Director General of our upon application and has mois- Made in Italy cosmetics are worth 244 the German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Per- turising and long-wear properties. million Euros. fumery and Detergent Association, Picca International from Taiwan, the The leading category of cosmetics drew from this year’s participation of winners in the category make-up that Italy exports to Hong Kong are German companies at the show. Q packaging, presented an Aluminium Magnetic Bullet Lipstick with the pro- portion 1:1 of aluminium cap and base. The winner in the category visitor’s choice was Bottlemate’s PLA Jar with Coffee Grounds, a jar made of PLA and coffee grounds to reduce plastics. www.cosmoprofawards-asia.com.

COSSMA roundtable at Cosmotalks COSSMA’s roundtable at this year’s Cosmotalks was titled Innovative ap- proaches in natural cosmetics: a 360° perspective. The panellists included Christine Wild from Boerlind as a representa- tive from a global brand, Jeff Huh COSSMA’s roundtable with Christine Wild from Boerlind, from BASF representing an ingredient Erwin Schuster from Geka and Jeff Huh from BASF

www.cossma.com l 55 PERSONALITIES & PROFILES

Diversity, performance, happiness and more

Interview | Even though beauty brands are more occupied than ever with providing safety, transparency and assurance to the consumer, there are far more topics that drive tomorrow’s product trends.

ment is driven by the consumers be- Performance refers to our consumers’ ing far more aware and concerned expectation of receiving high-per- about incomprehensible ingredient forming, long-lasting products. Hap- lists, brand noise, and environmental piness deals with topics such as sen- and ethical scandals. No wonder that soriality as well as more holistic beauty brands are more than ever themes such as wellness and inner AUTHOR: Asita Morgan, Head of Innovation Lab occupied with providing safety, beauty. To name some specific trends Cosnova, Sulzbach, Germany transparency and assurance to the we see for 2020: The 90s fun is com- www.cosnova.com consumer. It is important for con- ing back. Youthful 1990s-inspired sumers to know that whatever they looks include double-space-buns, use on themselves neither harms the glittery eyes and 90s pink lips. This planet, nor animals, nor people. is assisted by trends coming from Working on sustainable alternatives different categories such as chroma for raw materials and ingredients and cheeks or tie-dye nails being the new on initiatives that reduce waste, sup- marble ones or colourful brushstroke COSSMA: What are the most relevant port biodiversity and fairness – these eye looks. trends currently in the field of col- are the issues that are currently at the our cosmetics? top of our agenda. Would you be able to point out Other trends which are definitely on some major regional differences? Asita Morgan, Head of Innovation Lab, our radar right now: Diversity, per- Cosnova: One of the most relevant formance and happiness. There are indeed major regional dif- trends in colour cosmetics these days Diversity talks about a demand for ferences. We usually look to the

is clean beauty. This striking move- personalised and individual offers. Asian and American market for in- Shutterstock.com photo), (lead Samborskyi Roman (lips), Black Margo Essence, photos:

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spiration and compare the obser- something Asian consumers are An article on the vations we make to our market. more concerned about. One of the most Essence Maker Shop First, the speed at which certain Another major difference lies in relevant trends in is available at trends are adapted vary greatly in the style of make-up people prefer colour cosmetics www.cossma.com each region. in each region. To describe it very these days is clean web code: 100339 In Asia, people tend to be more generally: In Asia, the girls have beauty experimental and prone to jump always loved a youthful, cute on trends fast. The trends then look. With bold blush on the tend to arrive in the US before cheeks, thick and straight brows, they finally enter our market. glittery eyes and the gradient lip Even though these stereotypical Another interesting phenomenon in reds and pinks. All that paired looks are still around, we noticed CONSUMERS is that some trends are far more with a fair, clear, glowy complex- that the borders between beauty are far more aware relevant in the Western world than ion. ideals are starting to break down. and concerned they are in Asia. For instance, sus- In the US and here in Europe, you Trends from the US are also pop- about incompre- tainability is a much bigger prior- see arched brows, a smoky look hensible ingredient ular in Asia and vice versa. ity to American and European on the eyes, matte lips with a lists, brand noise, consumers. Interestingly, protec- sharp contour paired with a per- environmental and In what category in colour cos- tion against pollution and UV is fectly covered matte complexion. ethical scandals metics do you see the most potential for innovation and why?

I believe every category in colour cosmetics has potential, especially if you think about personalisation Consumers want and transparency. to make sure that Personalisation can have many the products they facets: you can engage consumers use neither harm in the product development pro- the planet, animals, cess, as we did with our Essence nor people Maker Shop for instance. Consumers are more demanding and are very well informed when it comes to the products they use. They are looking for products that Diversity, perfor- cater to their specific needs. Also, mance and happi- there is still a large group of con- ness are trends sumers who traditionally have not which are definitely been catered to in the past. Per- on our radar right sonalisation appeals to an increas- now ingly eco-conscious consumer, Engaging consumers for personalised products in the product development process which leaves us with many oppor-

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tunities and innovative concepts Innovation needs inspiration but such as vegan-based and wa- this is a process that often takes ter-less formulations as well as a In Asia, people its time. We are currently working “less is more” approach when it tend to be more on different projects to turn our comes to formulations and pack- experimental and ideas and beliefs into reality but aging. prone to jump on they are not yet ready to be pub- trends fast licly talked about. What have been some recent We create new concepts based on major innovations created by megatrends, such as the ones your innovation department? mentioned earlier, trend forecasts and consumer insights. These are trends which may deeply shape our society, behaviour and every- The 90s fun is coming back with day life in the future. features such as pink lips BEAUTY BRANDS We use Design Thinking as a are occupied with method to never lose sight of the providing safety, consumer. transparency and Different tools and methods help Our Innovation and New Business assurance to the us check back in with our con- Hub was founded in the beginning consumer sumers in order to ideate and proof 2019 and consists of around 30 totype different solutions. We people who are divided in differ- learn, understand and sometimes ent teams. fail, we adjust and rework to min- The Trends and Consumer In- imise risk. We need to translate sights team helps us understand the right trends at the right time consumers and their needs and into the right products and ser- problems better. They validate in- Personalisa- vices to be successful and relevant sights and are the base for taking tion appeals to for our consumers in the future. trend and consumer centred deci- an increasingly eco-conscious sions. consumer How is your innovation centre My team in the Innovation Lab Youthful 1990s-inspired structured and how does it finds new ideas that work towards looks include glittery eyes work? solving consumer needs and problems. We create out-of-the box solutions to challenges which can result in devising new or alterna- “The personalisation trend leaves us with tive business models. Our Incubator Team turns new many opportunities and innovative concepts” brands or promising business models into scalable and profita- Asita Morgan, Head of Innovation Lab, Cosnova ble business. Q

58 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 www.cossma.com PERSONALITIES & PROFILES people

FABER-CASTELL to personal reasons. most recently worked Dagmar Chlosta His successor from as Vice President of has been appointed January 2020 will Business Develop- Managing Director be Carsten Knobel. ment for JohnsByrne, of Faber-Castell Carsten Knobel joined a manufacturer of Cosmetics. Prior to Henkel in 1995 and secondary packaging joining the company, has been on the for cosmetics, spirits she served as Chief Management Board and other premium since 2012, respon- markets. Before this, Market officer Carsten Knobel Paul Morris at Schwan-Sta- sible for Finance, he held leadership Dagmar Chlosta bilo Cosmetics in Purchasing and Inte- positions with Berry Plastics, Cosmetic Germany. In this role, she was respon- grated Business Solu- Essence (CEI) and WestRock. sible for the leadership of the areas Global tions. www.qosmedix.com Product & Innovation, Regulatory, Commu- Michael Nilles is nications and all facets of Marketing. Henkel’s new Chief EDELMANN Dagmar Chlosta is a 30-year veteran of the Digital & Information Officer (CDIO). He will Oliver Bruns, the previous CEO of Edelman FMCG industry with a focus on sporting has left the company to take up new goods and cosmetics. She held various be responsible for the combined activities in professional challenges. The company’s senior leadership positions at Adidas and Michael Nilles Commercial Director Dr. Frank Hornung is Under Armour in Germany and the US Integrated Business Solutions (IBS) and digital technologies. He now managing the company together with with responsibility for global operations. Edelmann’s management team. www.fc-cosmetics.com has extensive experience in digital trans- www.edelmann-group.com formations for global corporations. He has successfully transformed core industrial GREENTECH businesses and developed new digital busi- Jean-Yves Berthon, SCHWAN-STABILO ness models. CEO of the Cosmetics division for five years CEO of Greentech www.henkel.com and an expert in and former Group CEO of Schwan-Sta- biotechnology, was bilo Dr Jörg Karas awarded the Achiever OLVEA has left the group for Innovation Award In order to expand its presence in North health reasons after from the CEW France America, Alain Beaudette and John 20 years with the network for being company. Sebastian Jean-Yves Berthon the one who has Schwanhäußer, who launched “an action has been CEO of the or a company whose Group since July, will concept brings a real be taking over from Dr Sebastian Karas as Managing wind of innovation”. Schwanhäußer Christophe Toumit Director along with is the new Sales and the management of the Cosmetics Divi- Marketing Director sion and work with the Cosmetics Executive of Greentech USA. Alain Beaudette John O’Keefe Board to manage the division. He has more than 20 www.schwancosmetics.com Christophe Toumit years of experience O’Keefe have been appointed Sales & Busi- in the cosmetics industry. For 14 years, he ness Development Managers for its vege- has been based in the US/NJ where he has table oils business unit. They are now in VMP CHEMIEKONTOR held various marketing and management charge of the company’s business in the Jörg Spiekermann has joined the team of VMP Chemiekontor as Sales Manager. roles at companies including Firmenich United States and Canada. www.olvea-vegetable-oils.com With his 35 years in and Croda. www.greentech.fr the cosmetics and household detergent QOSMEDIX industry, he previously HENKEL Paul Morris has been named Division Pres- worked for compa- After about 35 years with the company, ident and succeeds Hui Herskovitz, who nies such as SLI including roughly 15 years on the Manage- will be transitioning into a new business Chemicals, Azelis, ment Board and 4 years as its CEO, the development role within the organisation. YDS Chemicals and current CEO Hans Van Bylen, 58, will With over 20 years of experience in the Henkel/Cognis. not be available for a further term due cosmetics packaging industry, Paul Morris Jörg Spiekermann www.vmp-chemiekontor.de

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FAIRS, CONFERENCES AND SEMINARS 2019/20

WHEN? WHAT? WHERE? WHO? 04.–05.12.2019 BDIH Kosmetik-Fachtagung Ludwigshafen BDIH e.V. Germany www.bdih.de 04.–05.12.2019 InnoCosme Shanghai BMAP Global., Ltd China www.bmapglobal.com 04.–05.12.2019 Seminar: Kosmetik- Windhagen Cosmetic Campus GMP ISO 22716 Germany www.pfeiffer-consulting.com 06.–08.12.2019 Beauty Africa Expo Dar-Es-Salaam Grow Exhibitions Tanzania www.beautyafricaexpo.com 17.–18.12.2019 SCC Annual Scientific Meeting New York SCC USA www.scconline.org 14.–15.01.2020 Cosmet’Agora Paris SFC France www.cosmetagora.fr 19.–20.01.2020 Stamegna Network – Beauty Care Milan Stamegna Retail Management Italy www.stamegnaretail.com 20.–22.01.2020 Cosme Tokyo Tokyo Reed Exhibitions Japan Japan www.cosmetokyo.jp 29.–30.01.2020 ADF & PCD Paris Easyfairs France www.adfpcdparis.com 03.02.2020 Beauty Business Day Lyon Beauty Forum France www.beauty-forum.fr 04.–05.02.2020 Seminar: Kosmetik- Frankfurt a.M. Cosmetic Campu Betriebshygiene Germany www.pfeiffer-consulting.com 06.02.2020 LMC Kosmetik-Tagung Stuttgart LMC GmbH Germany www.lmc-service.de 11.–12.02.2020 Luxe Pack Los Angeles Los Angeles Infopro Digital USA www.luxepacklosangeles.com 11.–12.02.2020 MakeUp in Los Angeles Los Angeles Infopro Digital USA www.makeup-in-losangeles.com 12.–13.02.2020 Future of Surfactants Summit Berlin ACI Ltd Germany www.acieu.net 12.–13.02.2020 Seminar: Produktentwicklung Windhagen Cosmetic Campus moderner Hautpflegemittel Germany www.pfeiffer-consulting.com 12.–15.02.2020 Vivaness/ Nuremberg NürnbergMesse GmbH Biofach Germany www.biofach.de 13.–14.02.2020 Seminar: Hautverträglichkeit Hamburg DGK event GmbH Germany www.dgk-ev.de 26.–28.02.2020 PCHi China Shanghai Reed Sinopharm China www.pchi-china.com 29.02.–01.03.2020 BEAUTY FORUM SWISS Zurich Health and Beauty Marketing Swiss Switzerland www.beauty-forum.ch 02.–03.03.2020 Innocos Scottsdale Scottsdale Global Cosmetics Community USA www.innnocosevents.com 06.–08.03.2020 Beauty Düsseldorf Düsseldorf Messe Düsseldorf GmbH Germany www.messe-duesseldorf.de 07.–08.03.2020 BEAUTY FORUM WARSAW Warsaw Health and Beauty Media Sp. z o.o. Spring Edition Poland www.beauty-fairs.com.pl 09.03.2020 Beauty Business Day Nantes Beauty Forum France www.beauty-forum.fr 12.–15.03.2020 COSMOPACK Bologna BolognaFiere Cosmoprof COSMO PERFUMERY & COSMETICS Italy www.cosmoprof.com 13.–16.03.2020 COSMO HAIR & NAIL & Bologna BolognaFiere Cosmoprof BEAUTY SALON Italy www.cosmoprof.com

60 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 www.cossma.com COSSMA HAS THE ANSWER. STAY UP-TO-DATE.

WWW.COSSMA.COM/BLUE

GLOBAL TRENDS IN PACKAGING, INGREDIENTS AND DISTRIBUTION.

627-19_EA_Cossma_Blue2.indd 3 14.10.2019 07:04:03 SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE

suppliers’ Guide

E51280 On the following pages you will 10 / 2019 find a selection of suppliers to the suppliers’COSMETICS Guide | SPRAY TECHNOLOGY | MARKETING WWW.COSSMA.COM

On the following pages you will cosmetic industry. The listing is find a selection of suppliers to the Adeps Lanae cosmetic industry. The listing is GO E5128FUTURE:0 H. Erhard Wagner GmbH SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE 28701 Bremen, Postfach 770120 Applicators in alphabetical order based on STYLING 1–2/ 2016 COSMETICS Tel. (0421) 69360-0, Fax (0421) 6936015 | SPRAY TECHN OLOGY the section headings. | MARKETING www.wagnerlanolin.com Contract Filling A closerGO F loo at WWW.COSSMA.COM UTURE : SUN CARE The US ’s gap i UVA n You can also find a full overview, protection APPLICATORS natureSPOTLIGHT: ased mica Localized application of cosmetic and CUSTOMISATI The tr ON pharmaceutical products end pu GANZ EINFACH: into perspectit in alphabetical order based on with a search function, ve • Foam applicators Kevin Gallagher, Aerosol Mixing Balls Lohnabfüllung at www.cossma.com/guide Croda • Mini-roll-ons “LIMITLESS • blemish sticks for Zellaerosol GmbH LEISTUNG Should your company • akne products Wiesenstraße 13 POTENTIAL • after bite sticks D-79669 Zell/Wiesental HERSTELLEN be listed here? SPOTLIGHT: • markers Telefon 0 76 25 / 92 53-0 FOR INNO Telefax 0 76 25 / 92 53-14 von Salben, SUPPLIERS’Gelen, Cremes, Zahnpasta, GUIDE THEVATION” MICROIOME E-Mail: [email protected] Liquida, Pulver; Suppositorien in PVC- the section headings. Send an e-mail to Internet: www.zellaerosol.de oder Aluzellen. Ho much potential Bauerstraße 22 dorothea.michaelis@ DR. GERD MILDAU SiL ABFÜLLEN CVUA Karl ibeads • sru Tel. +49 (0)89 273 D-80796 72 608-0 München comm he, ® ents on th current legal statu e E-Mail: [email protected] in Alu-, Kunststoff-, Laminattuben, does it have orconcern s g in lass balls f g su lass balls f health-and-beauty.com n care www.cossma.com Cosmetic Ingredients personal care aerosol spr or www.zelinkagmbh.com Tiegel, Flaschen, Beutel, Dosen. We will be glad to send you SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH KONFEKTIONIEREN Phone (++49) 92 7 ays 7 - von pharmazeutischen, kosmetischen, E-Mail: sili@sigmund-lindner9 94 10· Fax (++49) 92 7 details of terms an prices. www 7 - 9 94 99 chemischen Produkten, Nahrungs- und You can also find a full overview, .sili.eu .com Genußmitteln.

Carmine DOKUMENTIEREN C.E. R GMP-gerechte Kontrolle und Doku- OEPER mentation. Modernes Labor mit Hans-Duncker-Straße 13 Tel. 0 40 / 7 34 10 30 . Fax 0 40 / 73 41 03 35 Mikrobiologie. • Rishah Pande, Aloe Vera E-Mail: [email protected] . 21035 Hamburg . http://www.roeper.de Labels C.E. R OEPER with a search function, DSM Hans-Duncker-Straße 13 Tel. 0 40 / 7 E-Mail: [email protected] 10 30 . Fax . 21035 Hamburg 0 40 / 73 41 03 35 . http://www.roeper.de Consultants Mixing + Homogenizing WAGENER & CO BeautyGANZ EINFACH Made Possible. “RECENT RESULTS Sworn Experts :LEISTUNG ADVERTISING FAX-SERVICE: Aluminium Seal Closures Wagener & Co GmbH |seit 1964 Start winning tomorrow’s customer today Developing new compositions • Postfach 1645 · 49516 Lengerich with your entry in the suppliers’ guide Samples/small batches www.baycusan.com at www.cossma.com/guide FAX +49 (0) 7243 7278-227 Telefon 0 54 81 / 8 06 - 0 Toxicological safety reports E-Mail: [email protected] width of column: Product Documentations Internet: www.wagener-co.de price per mm height: IN INNOVATION” Marketability/Export Reports 43 mm A STEP AHEAD for a period of: Please send me an order confirmation for the following ad: Quality assessments EUR 3,10 … protecting your products advertising deadline: Category/ies: SVB Dr. Lautenbacher GmbH Contract Manufacturing 1 year Tel: +089 82020020 Contract Manufacturing symex GmbH & Co. KG Baycusan_Suppliers_Guide_43x80mm.indd 1 Lengstr. 10, 27572 Bremerhaven SEUFERT 10th ❿ ALU SEALS [email protected] TRANSPARENTE □ Yes, day of each month before + Packaging DermatologicalPharmac. + Cosmetics + Fon: +49 (0)471 9840-10 I wish to place a firm order for an entry in the suppliers’ ❿ Fax: +49 (0)471 9840-140 VERPACKUNGEN GMBH guide at a price of publication REEL STOCK IN VARIOUS Clinical Tests www.symex.de PACKED You will receive the EURtext for3,10 my per ad columnwith separate mm for fax. each entry. SPECIFICATIONS ❿ WITH CONDUCTION SEALING MACHINES CosmetiC Should your company Height i. mm: 24.09.15 15:56 Company: ❿ INDUCTION SEALING MACHINES s, INSPIRATION. tattoos Contact: □ ❿ INDUCTIONDR ANKE SEALING GINURG LINERS m & Engelstraße 37, 48143 Münster “Your advertisement Packaging 4 colour (Euro scale) ediCal Street, P.O. Box: To be first published in issue: d www.dermatest.de could be right here” mm Cot eviC □ safety es black and white BALLERSTAEDT & CO. OHG assessment, CPNP etc. Post Code, City: Consulting Regulatory a DE-76401 Rastatt Ho to develop Borderline Products, Claims ffairs, Qm Book now: www.seufert.com Country: GEL-V Call +49 7243 7278-144 Straßfeld 6, 85777 Fahrenzhausen P.O. Box 1124 IEG ERS For a period of: -S SC Essential Oils nailO polishH Tel. +49 (0)8133 – 91 85 90 C LL FDC Consulting Ü A Ü SSS Phone +49 72 22/95 15-0 B

B Fax +49 (0)8133 – 91 85 99

S S Food

Phone: S

E E be listed here? □ 1 year E drugs Cosmetics [email protected], www.rosa-heinz.de QQ www.ballerstaedt.de F U Ü □ A H +49 □ test: 3 month L H II E 89 Safety Assessments Fax: Yes, I agree that you may keep me advised of industry news by phone (including LI R E E www.fdcconsulting.de44109090 IT E N D B IIC ÄT V mobile phone), by e-mail, or in writing! UND SER Lanolin (Adeps Lanae) Alu-Siegelverschlüsse Glitter Effects Alu-Folien Date, Signature • für Glas- u. Kunststoff-Behälter • in Kleinst- u. Massenauflage B iotechnology GmbH SiL • in jeder Größe zu jedem Zweck ig

• Qualität seit 1957 lit ®

DERSCHLAG GmbH & Co. KG SimDerma – Send an e-mail to Stanzerei und Folienverarbeitung rapid and low-cost 57319 Bad Berleburg screening of 30 dermato- Tel.: 0 27 51/20 27, Fax: 0 27 51/20 cosmetic parameters H. Erhard Wagner GmbH 28701 Bremen, Postfach 770120 25 [email protected] Tel. (0421) 69360-0, Fax (0421) 6936015 Filling Lines www.wagnerlanolin.com Maschinen für Aerosole und Phone (++49)SIGMUND 92 LINDNER VivaCellAnzeige 43x40-2.indd 1 Sprühsysteme E-Mail: sili@sigmund-lindner 77 99 dorothea.michaelis@ 410 · · 02.11.15 19:33 www Fax (++49)GmbH 92 – Füll- und Verschliessmaschinen .sili.eu Lip Balm Full Service 77 99 – Prüf- und Sicherheitseinrichtungen 499 – Sortier-, .com – Mess- und Zuführ- Testgeräte und Aufsetzmaschinen COS1602_SuppliersGuide.indd 63 Please note: Issue 3/2016 www.cossma.com Kosmetik - Pharmazeutik - Chemie - Technik - Nahrungsmittelindustrie - www.cossma.comPublishing date: Farben/Lacke - Polyurethanschäume l 63 4.3.2016 health-and-beauty.com Pamasol Willi Mäder AG, Advertising deadline: T +41(0)55 4174040, [email protected], CH-8808 Pfäffikon 15.2.2016 F +41(0)55 4174044 www.pamasol.com hesitate Pleaseto contact do not us if you have any further questions: Sterilization 64 Verpackung l COSSMA 1-2 Dorothea Michaelis Call +49 (0)7243 7278-14421.01.16 11:38 für Kosmetik – Wir machen Ihre I 2016 Selbstabfüller Produkte Dosen u. Flaschen in Plastik u. Glas (Sprühköpfe, Dosierspender, Aromaflaschen, Parfümflaschen, Sprühflaschen ohne Treibgas) steril! We will be glad to send you COS1602_SuppliersGuide.indd 64 BGS – Ihr Spezialist für Auch Kleinstmengen! www.bgs.eu Fordern Sie unsere Unterlagen an R.GERSCHON GMBH Strahlensterilisation. D . 61462 Königstein im Taunus Tel. 06174/7017 WIEHL | BRUCHSAL | Internet: www.gerschon.de BG . S Beta-Gamma-S E-Mail: [email protected] 06174/1312 [email protected] | +49 (0) 2261 7899-0 S Siebdruck ab 300 Stück ervice GmbAALH ( DONAU & C details of terms and prices. o. KG

Wool wax H. Erhard Wagner GmbH 28701 Bremen, Postfach 770120 Tel. (0421) 69360-0, Fax (0421) 6936015 www.wagnerlanolin.com

21.01.16 11:38

 

ADVERTISING FAX-SERVICE: FAX +49 (0) 7243 7278-227 Start winning tomorrow’s customer today Please send me an order confirmation for the following ad: with your entry in the suppliers’ guide Category/ies: width of column: 43 mm price per mm height: EUR 3,10 for a period of: 1 year advertising deadline: 10th day of each month before publication Height i. mm: mm  Yes, I wish to place a firm order for an entry in the suppliers’  4 colour (Euro scale)  black and white guide at a price of EUR 3,10 per column mm for each entry. You will receive the text for my ad with separate fax. To be first published in issue:

Company: Contact: For a period of:  1 year  test: 3 month Street, P.O. Box: Post Code, City:  Yes, I agree that you may keep me advised of industry news by phone (including mobile phone), by e-mail, or in writing! Country: Phone: Fax: Date, Signature

62 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE

Aerosol Mixing Balls Applicators Contract Filling Contract Manufacturing

APPLICATORS GANZ EINFACH: Localized application of cosmetic and Your Fullservice Provider for Aerosols and Liquids pharmaceutical products • Foam applicators ® The LEISTUNG SiLibeads • Mini-roll-ons for • blemish sticks smart way HERSTELLEN glasslass ballsballs ffor • akne products von Salben, Gelen, Cremes, Zahn- • after bite sticks aerosol sprays • markers to your pasta, Liquida, Pulver; Supposi- SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH torien in PVC- oder Aluzellen. Phone (++49) 92 77 -9 94 10· Fax (++49) 92 77 - 9 94 99 product. E-Mail: [email protected] www.sili.eu creative reliable ABFÜLLEN in Alu-, Kunststoff-, Laminattuben, Bauerstraße 22 • D-80796 München experienced Tiegel, Flaschen, Beutel, Dosen. Tel. +49 (0)89 273 72 608-0 E-Mail: [email protected] individual solutions www.zelinkagmbh.com KONFEKTIONIEREN von pharmazeutischen, kosmetischen, chemischen Produkten, Place your company Nahrungs- und Genussmitteln. Biodegradable Glitter in COSSMA’s next DOKUMENTIEREN market survey GMP-gerechte Kontrolle und Dokumentation. Modernes Labor mit Mikrobiologie. Check Glitter www.cossma.com/ brilliant effects for cosmetic products marketsurvey [email protected] for details www.zellaerosol.de

Wagener & Co GmbH SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH www.sili.eu Postfach 1645 · 49516 Lengerich Telefon 05481 806-0 Aluminium Seal Closures E-Mail: [email protected] Internet: www.wagener-co.de www.cossma.com Highest standard of full service for cosmetics!

We offer more than just a 18-3143 Wagener Anz 43x125.indd 1 06.12.18 11:23 production service. … protecting your products Development • Procurement Consultants Production • Filling • Packaging ❿ ALU SEALS Quality assurance ❿ REEL STOCK IN VARIOUS CARECOS Kosmetik GmbH Im Fuchseck 10-12 SPECIFICATIONS Sworn Experts 77694 Kehl • Germany Developing new compositions Fon: 07853 9287-0 ❿ CONDUCTION SEALING MACHINES Samples/small batches [email protected] ❿ INDUCTION SEALING MACHINES Toxicological safety reports ❿ INDUCTION SEALING LINERS Product Documentations Marketability/Export Reports Quality assessments www.carecos.de/en BALLERSTAEDT & CO. OHG SVB Dr. Lautenbacher GmbH GEL-VERS IE CH S L - LÜ Tel: +089 82020020 DE-76401 Rastatt O Ü SS CC Lohnpack-15-07-2019.pdf 1 16.07.19 08:13 SSS A A E E E

B P.O. Box 1124 BB [email protected] Contract Manufacturing Q F II EE U Ü E C A H B E II Phone +49 72 22/95 15-0 L RE N D V IIT ER www.ballerstaedt.de ÄT UND S We are specialized in Producing, Filling and Sealing of Alu-Siegelverschlüsse Standard Sachets Alu-Folien B iotechnology GmbH Magazine Sachets • für Glas- u. Kunststoff-Behälter Onpack Sachets • in Kleinst- u. Massenauflage SimDerma – Contour Sachets • in jeder Größe zu jedem Zweck rapid and low-cost Tissues in Sachets • Qualität seit 1957 screening of 30 dermato- Lohn-Pack www.cossma.com / DERSCHLAG GmbH & Co. KG cosmetic parameters K.A.Wolf GmbH & Co. KG Stanzerei und Folienverarbeitung Dorfwiesenstraße 2–4, 61197 Florstadt, Germany Phone. +49 (0)60 41 / 82 28 - 0 guide 57319 Bad Berleburg [email protected] Fax +49 (0)60 41 / 47 76 Tel.: 0 27 51/20 27, Fax: 0 27 51/20 25 Mail: [email protected]

VivaCellAnzeige 43x40-2.indd 1 02.11.15 19:33 www.cossma.com l 63 COSSMA Eintrag RATIONATOR im Bezugsquellenverzeichnis ab Ausgabe 09/2016 Stichwort: „Filling Lines / Abfüllanlagen"

Größe: 1 Spalte 43 mm breit Höhe: 69 mm

Farbton Orange: C0, M52, Y80, K0

deutsch

Flexible Filling Lines

i Flaschenaufstellen i Abfüllen i Verschließen i Transportieren i RATILIGHT Puck System SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE RATIONATOR Maschinenbau GmbH Tel.: +49 (0)6733 9470-0 [email protected] · www.rationator.de

Kosmetik · Pharma · Chemie

Contract Manufacturing Contract Manufacturing Filling Lines Lanolin (Adeps Lanae) Pharmac. +englisch Cosmetics

M A G Flexible Filling Lines cosmetics

Lip Balm Full Service

i Bottle Handling manufacturing i Filling i Capping attractive goods i Conveying i RATILIGHT Puck System We are your competent PRIVATE LABEL RATIONATOR Maschinenbau GmbH PARTNER for innovative products and quality, Tel.: +49 (0)6733 9470-0 specialising in HAIR COSMETICS. [email protected] · www.rationator.com Depending on your needs, we provide you with our services. Either individual process Cosmetics · Pharma · Chemical Products stages such as just development or contract filling, or complete support from brainstorming to production.

MAG cosmetics GmbH Rötestraße 7 • 74321 Bietigheim-Bissingen Anmeldung von Tel: +49 (0) 71 42 / 789 87-0 Medizinprodukten Fax: +49 (0) 71 42 / 789 87-111 [email protected] www.mag-cosmetics.de Mixing + Homogenizing

Pamasol Willi Mäder AG - CH 8808 Pfäffikon T +41 55 417 40 40 - F +41 55 417 40 44 BE DIFFERENT BE SKINOVATIVE [email protected] - www.pamasol.com Essential Oils Private Label Skin Care Full Service

[email protected] www.skinovators.com Please note: Issue 1-2/2020

Cosmetic Spatulas Packaging Publishing date: 28.01.2020

MEDING GmbH Kruppstraße 8 · D-58553 Halver Filling Lines Tel: +49 (0) 23 53 - 91 58-0 PACKAGING Fax: +49 (0) 23 53 - 91 58-28 COSMETICS . PHARMA [email protected] Advertising deadline: www.meding.com We offer bottles and jars made of glass 02.01.2020 and plastics together with perfect fitted sprayheads and dispencers, flavoured bottles and perfume bottles, as well. Your advertisement Dorothea Michaelis Individual printing on request. Call +49 (0)7243 7278-144 could be right Please contact us: here www.gerschon.de Book now: www.cossma.com +49 6174 7017 I [email protected] Call +49 7243 7278-144 GERSCHON GmbH I Kronberg i. Ts. Germany

64 l COSSMA 12 I 2019 WE HAVE THE ANSWER.

Ashland STAY UP-TO-DATE! www.ashland.com p. 5

Bolognafiere Cosmoprof S.P.A. www.cosmoprof.com p. 68

CHT Germany GmbH www.cht.com p. 9

Easyfairs Oriex www.adfpcdparis.com p. 49

Health and Beauty Germany GmbH www.cossma.com/survey p. 15 www.cossma.com/blue p. 61, 65

Intergate Consulting GmbH www.intergate-consulting.de p. 31

KHK GmbH www.lipcare.de p. 30

Lehmann & Voss & Co. KG www.lehvoss.com p. 21

Messe Düsseldorf GmbH www.interpack.com p. 19

Nouryon www.nouryon.com/personalcare p. 7

Provital S.A. www.provitalgroup.com p. 39

Quadpack INDUSTRIES SA www.louvrette.de / www.quadpack.com p. 29

Reed Exhibition Companies www.in-cosmetics.com/global p. 2

RPC Bramlage Division GmbH & Co. KG www.rpc-bramlage.com p. 24, 25

SystemKosmetik Produktionsges. für kosmetische Erzeugnisse WWW.COSSMA.COM/BLUE www.systemkosmetik.de p. 30

Virospack slu www.virospack.com p. 11

628-19_EA_Cossma_Blue1-3.indd 1 14.10.2019 07:02:22 masthead Page VOLUME 20

Representatives International health-and-beauty.com marcus.reichel@ +49 7243 7278-358 Director Publishing Marcus Reichel ❱ SERVICES 66 brands maybethe subject oflegal protection, even though inthe they assuch magazine. maynot beidentified productnamesand Such useby third parties. their further for product designationsetc. inthis publication implies noauthority copying, andthe storage andeditingusingelectronicmedia.Theuseoftrade names,brand names, translations, microfilms to photo isprohibited useofpublishedmaterial andwillbethe subjectUnauthorised oflegal action.Thisappliesinparticular isaccepted mayoccur. which any iscopyright. for andillustrations responsibility errors Themagazine, includingallarticles The publisherhastaken inthis magazine. to Never allreasonable steps ensurethe accuracy ofinformation Germany GmbH,Ettlingen 2019© Copyright Health andBeauty Staff Editorial Published by Director: Art Subscription THETEAM

Advertising Circulation Production l

Hungary USA and COSSMA 12 I2019 Address Canada Design/ Printing Service Poland Rates Italy

D.A. Fox Advertising Sales Inc., Detlef Fox, SalesInc.,Detlef 19 Fox Advertising D.A. Phone: +48228587955, Fax: +48228587953, E-mail:[email protected] Szulc,ul.Kubickiego 9/3,02-954 Warsaw, MediaSp.z.o.o.,Malgorzata Health andBeauty Poland Phone: +390115637338, E-mail:[email protected] Valprato, Via Zero Venti, 68,10155 Sparti, Loris Torino, Italy Marktweg 42-50,47608Marktweg Germany, Geldern, www.schaffrath.de GmbH&Co.KG Schaffrath DruckMedien L.N. Rolf Jäger, [email protected] edition:€149,digital edition:€99,print edition:€199, digital &print €499 company flat: rates: subscription price/annual Purchase undKosmetik“ and“Aerosol “Parfümerie COSSMA: formerly andSpray Report“ Published: 10 issuesperyear Phone: +497243 7278-162, Fax: +497243 7278-852 [email protected] Germany GmbH Health andBeauty Phone: +361457006600, Fax: +3612013248, E-mail:[email protected] Ágnes Balla,Naphegy tér 8.III.em.(MTISzékház),1016 Hungary Budapest, BusinessMediaKft. Health andBeauty www.hofmann-infocom.de hofmann medienGmbH isacceptable. office viaabankorpost arrangement year.subscription willbebilledinadvance fees Thesubscription onceayear. debittransfer Aquarterly by letterCancellations addressedto willbeaccepted the publishingfirm the onemonth endofthe before The current list of advertising rates isdated 1 ofadvertising list The current Phone: +497243 7278-232, Fax: +497243 7278-227 Beate Bantzhaff Services: Advertising Phone: +497243 7278-144, E-mail:[email protected] Dorothea Michaelis Sales Manager: Phone: +497243 7278-169, E-mail:[email protected] Angelika Meiss andSeniorEditor: Legally responsible party Phone: +497243 7278-0, Fax: +497243 7278-227 P.O. Box 10 11, 04 76258 Ettlingen, Germany Germany GmbH,COSSMA Health andBeauty Phone: Director Publishing:MarcusReichel Phone:+497243Assistant: 7278-311 Georg vonManaging Director: Griesheim Germany GmbH Health andBeauty Phone: +1212 896-3881, Fax: +1212 629-3988,E-mail:[email protected]

+49 7243 7278-358 Angelika Meiss health-and-beauty.com angelika.meiss@ +49 7243 7278-169 Senior Editor

ISSN 1439-7676

th Dorothea Michaelis health-and-beauty.com dorothea.michaelis@ +49 7243 7278-144 Sales Manager st Floor5Penn Plaza,New York, NY10001, USA ofJan.2019.

Beate Bantzhaff health-and-beauty.com beate.bantzhaff@ +49 7243 7278-232 Head of Sales theless, no Support Support

preview and theof UV sustainability filters The latest insights into full light protection ❱ JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 ❱ Do sustainability and Do samplesustainability packaging go together? • • • ❱ published on January 28, published 2020 on January COSSMA 1–2/2020 will be GOFUTURE:SUNCARE SPOTLIGHT: SAMPLES PLUS from PCD and ADF What packaging innovations to expect Cosmetagora Ingredients trends 2020 at ingredients Global sun care trends and new www.cossma.com

photos: DisobeyArt (sun), Shutterstock.com, Africa Studio (samples), Pauline Fabry Find your suppliers here!

Check the website with detailed online-information for the personal care industry – news, product innovations, addresses, events, books and these selected internet sites: www.cossma.com/suppliers

www.geka-world.com www.bix-pack.de www.molcare-consulting.com www.packaging.polpak.pl www.viscotec.de www.merck4cosmetics.com

PACKAGING COSMETICS PHARMA

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www.biesterfeld- www.lohn-pack.com www.pfeiffer-consulting.com www.gloryactives.de www.bb-kalkar.de spezialchemie.com www.klar-partner.de

www.zellaerosol.de www.brenntag-gmbh.com www.rationator.com www.cosphatec.com www.lutz-packaging.de

www.systemkosmetik.de www.sili.eu www.derschlag.com www.juestrich-cosmetics.ch www.symex.de www.sabinsa.com Your Logo here for just 60,– www.lipcare.de/en/ private-label www.cossma.com www.vmp-chemiekontor.de www.ballerstaedt.de www.kosmetik-konzept.de www.serac-group.com

Etiketten im Digitaldruck

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Your logo can be listed here for just 60,– EUR per month – for further information, please contact Dorothea Michaelis | [email protected] phone +49 (0)7243 7278-144

948-16_EA_CosmeticNET.indd 3 14.08.19 07:31 INGREDIENTS & RAW MATERIALS CONTRACT & PRIVATE LABEL MANUFACTURING MACHINERY PACKAGING

2020 COSMOPROF 12 – 15 MARCH 13 – 16 MARCH BOLOGNA, ITALY – FAIR DISTRICT

A new world for beauty Organiser Company of In partnership with With the support of Bologna, Hong Kong, BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a. Las Vegas, Mumbai, Bangkok Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 cosmoprof.com F +39 02 795 036 [email protected]