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COSMETIC NEWS WEEKLY

No 608 / July 14 2014 www.cosmeticsbusiness.com Beauty bloggers: a growth business

he blog has come into its own. channel MacBarbie07, is launching her first INSIDE THIS ISSUE Once considered by some, perhaps, fragrance which is called, appropriately, Tas a platform for beauty fans telling Bethany Mota and packaged in a heart-shaped BUSINESS others about their love of , the bottle. It was produced in collaboration A new niche fragrance blog has become a force to be reckoned with American women’s fashion retailer brand launches in with and respected. And bloggers are Aéropostale which already sells the page 3 starting to make their mark beyond vlogger’s eponymous fashion collection. cyberspace. The bigger bloggers have And more recently, California based ASIA FOCUS become a label in themselves, some being YouTube vlogger Dulce Candy Tejeda was China-South Korea free trade approached to work with brands and named YouTube ambassador for Too Faced agreement: good for brands others taking the next step by launching Cosmetics’s Better Than Sex Mascara. page 4 their own lines of cosmetics. But what might be most significant is Last year, beauty vlogger Michelle the growing influence of bloggers as a INTERVIEW Phan launched her first colour cosmetics voice for, or against, brands. Whether they Stephan Bestehorn, Managing line with L’Oréal: em michelle phan. The are just fans of the products or Director, rlc | packaging group YouTube make-up artist had already been professional beauty writers, their reach is page 5 named an ambassador for the brand, as wide and their potential to influence official video make-up artist for Lancôme. buying patterns huge. SUPPLIERS Korean beauty blogger BEAUTIFYMEEH I recently interviewed UK facialist Albéa opens new $14m teamed up with in October to Antonia Burrell, who has her own line of packaging site in China create a limited edition palette of pearl clinics and three years ago launched an page 7 and smoky eyeshadows and has also eponymous range of skin care recently collaborated with the brand on its products. For her, bloggers have played a RETAIL Singing Forest collection. key role in promoting the brand. She Kiehl’s arrives in Montmartre In the UK, Jane Cunningham (AKA thinks what they say can sometimes even with special focus on men BritishBeautyBlogger) has teamed up with have more weight than mainstream media page 8 Marks & Spencer to produce a limited- as “what they write is what they think” so edition collection of eyes, lips, cheek and readers are more likely to believe what PRODUCT nail cosmetic gifts, with packaging they say. According to Burrell, their Japan’s Fancl introduces a illustrated by Nuno da Costa. The line will influence is growing and will continue to seasonal summer be coming out in the autumn. Beating her grow – especially for those bloggers who page 9 to the punch, however, was British blogger are more well known. Tanya Burr who in April launched her own What will be interesting to see, however, SPOTLIGHT range of lip glosses and nail polishes in is whether that influence begins to wane if The conundrum of free-from: Superdrug stores across the UK. their connections with particular brands are ingredients and labelling This month will see the launch of seen to strengthen and/or if they are viewed page 12 another blogger’s wares. Teenage vlogger as promoting their own ranges. Bethany Mota, who runs the YouTube Kathleen Armstrong

1 • CosmeticNews Weekly No608/July 14 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com People

From this month, Graeme Pitkethly will Private label manufacturer Schwan- CosmeticNews Weekly become Unilever’s Chairman for the UK STABILO (Schwanhauber lndustrie HPCi Media Limited & Ireland, succeeding Amanda Sourry Holding) has appointed Dr Jörg Karas as Unit 1, Vogans Mill Wharf, 17 Mill Street, who is moving on to be the Executive Vice Managing Director of Schwan-STABILO London SE1 2BZ, UK President, Global Hair Category, after Cosmetics, effective 1 July, replacing +44 20 7193 1279 [email protected] more than four years in post. Pitkethly has Herta Fischer. Karas joined Schwan worked at Unilever for 12 years, most Cosmetics in 1999 and has lead the Acting Editor recently as Senior Vice President Research and Product Development team Kathleen Armstrong +44 20 7193 8184 Finance – Global Markets. In his new role, for several years. In addition to his [email protected] he will report to Jan Zijderveld, President – responsibility for the Cosmetics division, Reporter Europe. Alongside Pitkethly’s arrival on Karas was also appointed to the Executive Georgia Seago +44 20 7617 7114 the UK & Ireland board, several other Board of the Schwan-STABILO Group. [email protected] leadership changes have been announced: Layout Sub-editor James Simmons, currently Vice President The winners of the UK’s FreeFrom Skin Ross Murdoch [email protected] (VP) – Customer Development UK, has Care Awards have been revealed with been appointed Managing Director of Tropic Skin Care’s Smoothing Correspondents: Unilever Greater Caribbean, while Jill with Organic Bamboo Cloth picking up Argentina Muireann Prendergast Ross, currently Managing Director and VP the Best FreeFrom Skincare Product Australia & Sarah de Castro Brazil Sueli Ortega Customer Development for Unilever award. Botanicals was presented with Canada Marjo Johne Ireland, will succeed Simmons as VP – the Gold award in the category of Best China Keith Crane Customer Development UK. FreeFrom Skincare Brand. France Patricia Mansfield-Devine Germany Annie Kruse Additional winners recognised at the India Chitra Gopalak Cradle Holdings, which includes the event included: Nom Nom Skincare, Italy Corinne Blanché luxury fragrance companies Penhaligon’s which won the Family Skin Care category Japan David Kilburn Poland Jaroslaw Ad amowski and L’Artisan Parfumeur, has announced for its Organic Pregnancy Stretch Butter Russia Eugene Gerden the appointment of Lance Patterson as Camillia and Vanilla; Lavera Men, which South Africa Bambina Wise its Chief Executive Officer and to its Board triumphed in the Men’s Grooming Spain Lola Gavarrón UK Imogen Matthews of Directors. Patterson has over 22 years category for its Sensitive Moisturising US - East Coast Laura Klepacki of retail expertise building luxury brands, Face Cream; and the Elixirs of Life US - West Coast Kavita Daswani including most recently as Co-President of Gardeners Life Hand Cream, which came Tr avel Retail Ke vin Rozario Peter Thomas Roth Clinical Skincare (PTR). out on top in the Hand, Nail and Foot US Sales Manager Prior to his tenure at PTR, Patterson served Care category. Suzi Richardson as a senior executive at Bare Escentuals +1 305 461 0861 [email protected] and several LVMH cosmetic divisions, Lancôme has announced an upcoming Managing Director including , Acqua di collaboration with model and music Colin Bailey-Wood Parma and Bliss. producer Caroline de Maigret which will +44 20 7193 6066 [email protected] result in the development of an original Chairman Anthony Brands has appointed Dana make-up collection, set for launch in 2015. Michael Harrington Kline as Executive Vice President of “I am delighted by this collaboration, +44 20 7193 1092 Global Sales at the company. In her which is unlike any other and which truly mike [email protected] www.cosmeticsbusiness.com previous post as President of Luxury reflects Lancôme,” de Maigret said. “It’s Fragrance and Executive Vice President at the beginning of a lovely adventure with

Subscriptions Fusion Brands, Kline created a luxury this brand that I love so much. A brand +44 20 7193 1279 fragrance division and added a portfolio of that offers a different vision of femininity: [email protected] one year subscription: US$1,585/a1,250/£990 luxury brands, including Diane Von one that is free, intelligent and that a two year subscription: US$2,800/ 2,250/£1,780 Furstenberg, Paul Smith, Betsy Johnson, touches both the heart and mind.” and Oscar de Renta. CosmeticNews Weekly “I am thrilled to have Dana Kline join BRAND AMBASSADORS CosmeticNews Weekly no608 14 July 2014 Anthony Brands as Executive Vice-

Articles published in this newsletter may only be reproduced with President, Global Sales,” commented California based YouTube vlogger Dulce permission. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any statements made in signed contributions or in those reproduced Anthony Sosnick, founder and CEO of Candy Tejeda has been announced by from any other source. ISSN 1953-0633 Anthony Brands. “Kline’s background Too Faced Cosmetics as the US brand’s HPCi includes 25 years of prestige beauty first online ambassador, according to a media industry expertise and she has represented report on WWD. Tejeda will be brands including Our Moment/One representing the recently unveiled Better Direction, Coty Beauty and Christian .” Than Sex Mascara.

2 • CosmeticNews Weekly No608/July 14 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com Business

Symrise secures finance for Diana has secured the financing for acquiring the Diana Group through the New niche brand for France issuing of a u500m bond. Part of a u1.3bn financing concept, the company said the rance has a new niche brand: Parfums de la Bastide. Founded in bond was oversubscribed several times. February by two former Annick Goutal executives – ex-Managing Director William The bond financing has a term of five years F Bouheret and ex-Head of France/Benelux/Global, Anne-Cécile Vidal – the firm will and a coupon of 1.75%. The issue was focus on the concept of Provence as the real home of French perfumery. The juices are supported by Mitsubishi UFJ Securities based on local products for which the region is famous. The company currently has five International and UniCredit Bank as active fragrances: Ardent, based on cedar; Éclatant, based on lemon; Exquise, with fig notes; bookrunners together with Banco Insolite, based on lavender; and Insouciante, based on rose absolute. For its signature Santander, BNP Paribas, Landesbank bottle, the firm has chosen a tall, heavy-based rectangular design, which features a Hessen-Thüringen and J.P. Morgan terracotta-coloured cap and the letters PB in terracotta on the glass, as terracotta is the Securities. The bond will be listed and signature colour of the region. The fragrances cost u125 for 100ml. admitted for trading on the official list of Parfums de la Bastide has collaborated with other Grasse based firms for the the Luxembourg Stock Exchange. production of the fragrances. The formulations were produced by Robertet, the bottle Symrise successfully issued its first by Coverpla and PCW provided the maturation facilities. corporate bond in October 2010 with a At the moment, the brand is sold mainly in the south of France, in 12 points of sale, maturity of seven years. and the firm has just opened a 35sqm showroom in Aix-en-Provence. However, in “With the bond successfully issued, our September, it plans to open a Parisian showroom near the Tuileries and to be present in long-term financing concept for the Diana a further 30 points of sale by the end of that month. acquisition is complete,” said Symrise CFO Bernd Hirsch. “The fact that this was achieved within a very short period of time Patch aims to deliver actives between the purchase offer and completion is a great accomplishment for ustomised battery maker Enfucell and Spanish start-up firm The Ionto Team are all those involved. Symrise will accelerate collaborating on a wearable cosmetic patch that uses ‘iontophoretic’ technology its profitable growth even more with the Cto increase skin permeability. The firms believe it could be used as a delivery successful integration of Diana.” system for cosmetic actives as well as having applications in medicine. The Ionto Team will manufacture and market the product worldwide, principally in Europe, Australia and FDA warns on acne treatments South America. Iontophoresis is a non-invasive technique that involves applying The US Food and Drug Administration micro-currents to the skin. Using a patch with an incorporated printed SoftBattery (a (FDA) has issued a warning that over the technology created by Enfucell) and an ionisable gel increases the skin’s permeability, counter acne treatments can cause severe according to The Ionto Team, leading to faster and more intense absorption of active allergic reactions that could be fatal. It substances into the skin. It can be used alongside other products. has asked brands to place warnings on To demonstrate the possibilities of the technology, Enfucell has created a wearable the product label. “There is currently no patch in collaboration with Finnish manufacturing company Screentec, which consists mention of the possibility of these very of a paper-thin printed battery, electrodes that are placed on the skin and components severe allergic reactions on the product that allow users to evaluate the patch’s performance. Xymox Technologies is labels,” said Dr Mona Khurana, a medical manufacturing and selling the SoftBattery technology in North America. The Ionto officer at the FDA. “It’s important that Team is a spin-off from Martí Tor Impomedic, which offers cosmetics formulations, consumers know about them, and that especially for anti-ageing applications, under the brand name MartiDerm. they know what to do if they occur.” Patricia Mansfield-Devine, Rennes The warning, which has been issued as a Drug Safety Communication, said that the use of certain acne products washes, solutions, cleansing pads, toners manufacturers to add safety testing containing the active ingredients benzoyl and facial scrubs. The FDA said it had instructions on the drug label on products peroxide or salicylic acid can cause rare received 131 reports from 1969 through and to give consumers advice about what but serious and potentially life-threaten- to 28 January 2013. The most serious to do if a reaction occurs. ing allergic reactions or severe irritation. reactions included severe allergy symptoms The organisation mentions, by name, such as throat tightness, shortness of Arthritis drug may treat alopecia the brands Proactiv, , breath, wheezing, low blood pressure, Researchers at Yale university have used MaxClarity, Oxy, Ambi, Aveeno and Clean & fainting or collapse. No deaths have the arthritis drug tofacitinib citrate to Clear, and stresses that the ingredients occurred as yet, the FDA said, but there successfully treat alopecia universalis, a concerned can be found in a wide range of have been over 50 hospitalisations. disease that can cause all of a person’s products, including gels, , face The organisation is encouraging hair to fall out. They are now hoping to

3 • CosmeticNews Weekly No608/July 14 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com Business

to cosmetic applications, as well as hav- ing possibly dangerous side effects, King ASIA FOCUS told news network CNN that he thought conducting more research was worth a try. China-Korea FTA good news... “The possibility should be imagined and should be investigated,” he said. orean cosmetic makers are hopeful that a free trade agreement due to be signed with China before the end of this year will eliminate duties on their make-up drives growth K products when exported. Under current customs regulations, Korean cosmet- Prestige eyebrow make-up was the key ics face tariffs rising to 130% when exported to China. Sales of Korean cosmetics to driver behind growth in the total US Chinese consumers have grown rapidly on the back of the growing popularity of Korean prestige eye make-up category in the year popular culture. Last year, a record 4.3 million Chinese tourists visited South Korea. ending March 2014, according to a market Cosmetics have proved one of their most popular purchases. Many Korean businesses analyst The NPD Group. Dollar sales in see potential in selling at competitive prices directly to consumers in China, and so a the eyebrow make-up segment grew 28% trade deal would be welcome news for cosmetic brands looking to expand in China. and now represents $122m or 11% of “We can anticipate positive results from a South Korea-China FTA, but currently we will total US prestige eye make-up sales. Sales continue to focus on expanding our business in China by offering optimal products and of eyebrow products have increased by services to our Chinese customers,” said a spokesperson for AmorePacific. double digits over the past three years. China is South Korea’s largest trading partner, while South Korea is the third largest However, less than 80% of prestige retail export market for Chinese goods. Experts say a free trade deal would also demonstrate stores are currently selling brow make-up. how closely relations have developed beyond simple economics. Regionally, while the West is the largest region in terms of sales, there is potential for additional growth in the South where ...while Q2 earnings are mixed just 70% of prestige stores are selling brow make-up products, NPD said. ixed results for the second quarter earnings are expected from South “It is becoming increasingly critical to Korea’s three leading cosmetic makers: AmorePacific, LG Household & understand the winning brands and M Health Care and Able C&C. A problem all three share is that consumers are products at a local level,” said Karen looking to economise on all purchases and cut back non-essentials. Domestic Grant, NPD Vice President and Global saturation and intense price competition leave little room for growth and so overseas Beauty Industry Analyst. “In the eyebrow markets are increasingly important. market, for example, while MAC and AmorePacific’s Q1 results were good with sales up 15.9% to KRW931.8bn and are among the top sellers, it is operating profit up 25.3% to KRW175.7bn. Analysts suggest that Q2 results may level niche brand Anastasia Cosmetics that off. Q1 sales for LG Household and Health Care’s Beauty businesses increased 7.5% ranks number one in three of the four US quarter on quarter and 4.8% year on year to KRW454bn. Operating profit increased regions, and Benefit Cosmetics that 57.2% quarter on quarter but decreased 15.8% year on year to KRW66bn. LG H&H is ranks among the top three brands in the expected to perform better in Q2 with improvement in both operating profits and West. Despite differing geographic margins. Less good results are expected for Able C&C since its leading brand, Missha, market dynamics, the right brand was losing money in the first quarter, and is expected to lose more in Q2, though distribution will help influence purchase losses should decline. The company plans to revitalise Missha with new products, behaviour and ultimately drive sales.” with a turnaround expected before the end of 2014. David Kilburn, Tokyo Innovation centre for UK’s northeast The UK’s North East Local Enterprise Partnership has invested £7.4m into The test a topical application for use only on autoimmune disease, Dr Brett King at Yale Centre for Process Innovation (CPI) to affected areas. decided to treat Rhodes with tofacitinib develop a new innovation centre focused The researchers treated 25-year-old citrate (brand name Xeljanz), which is on formulated products. The investment Kyle Rhodes, who had been diagnosed used to treat another autoimmune dis- will be matched with £7m from industry. with the disease at the age of two and lost ease – rheumatoid arthritis. Eight months Complex formulated products include all his body hair by the age of 18. Rhodes later, Rhodes had a full head of hair. His cosmetic creams and gels, detergent also suffered from plaque psoriasis, a dis- and eyelashes also grew back, powders and liquids, paints, inks, adhesives ease which causes scaly red areas of skin as did the rest of the hair on his body. and lubricants. The new centre will focus and was referred to Yale Dermatology for Although other scientists have specifically on the areas of radical product treatment of the skin condition – the emphasised that alopecia universalis is and process design. Located in Co Durham, alopecia had never been treated. unrelated to male pattern baldness and it will provide facilities and expertise to help Since the hair loss was caused by an that the treatment is therefore unsuited companies to develop, prove, prototype

4 • CosmeticNews Weekly No608/July 14 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com Business

and scale up new formulated products. “We will provide both large and small INTERVIEW companies with open access facilities to optimise their formulated products and Stephan Bestehorn, Managing Director, rlc | packaging group prove their benefits in applications, therefore reducing risks associated with product development,” said Nigel Perry, Premiumising sustainability CEO of CPI. remiumisation and sustainability are two current megatrends in the beauty industry, according to Germany based rlc | packaging group. The company has Albéa files IPO to raise $150m Peight specialised sites in Germany, and Poland and an annual Luxembourg based beauty and personal turnover of u230m, serving the beauty, pharma, food and sectors. care packaging specialist Albéa has filed Cosmetic News Weekly spoke to Managing Director Stephan Bestehorn about how it with the US Securities and Exchange meets the demand for sustainable premium products. Commission (SEC) to raise up to $150m in an initial public offering (IPO). Founded in What is the prestige market looking for? 2004, as Alcan Packaging Beauty, the Our customers increasingly want high quality yet sustainable products – in the luxury company was bought by Sun Capital segment as well as in lower price market segments. In short, the beauty megatrends of Partners in 2010 who renamed it Albéa. premiumisation and sustainability are on the rise. We also have to be able to serve the Revenue jumped 63% to $1.6bn for the mass market efficiently. The right processes and machinery allow us to reconcile these fiscal year ended 31 December 2013 due potentially contradictory challenges. to Albéa’s acquisition of Rexam Cosmetics in December 2012, according How have you incorporated sustainability in your processes? to a report on the IPO by Renaissance One finishing technique we offer is MetPaper, a completely recyclable alternative to Capital. BofA Merrill Lynch, J.P. Morgan and PET-coated metallic cardboard. rlc | Silk Touch is used to create a satiny matte and Goldman Sachs are the joint managers of scratch-resistant surface. No acetate film coating is required. Our brandpack design- the deal. No pricing terms were disclosed. ers include options like these from our ‘green chic’ repertoire in their packaging design, while also working to ensure ease of processing later on the packing line. Dermosciences withdraws products Irish aesthetic dermatology company Why are concepts like these relevant for the beauty industry? Dermoceutic Laboratoires has ceased pro- Because they mean shorter development and delivery times and a greater diversity of duction of two of its cosmetic products, products and brands. But customers still want eye-catching packaging that is following a ban on their sale issued in June produced with an efficient use of resources and available any time. This requires the by Malaysia’s Ministry of Health. The right technology and well-coordinated organisation of production and processes. That Ministry had said the two products – is why we work with in-line technologies, for example. They have an enormous Dermaceutic Spot Cream and Dermaceutic potential with respect to cost efficiency that many companies are not exploiting. Spot Peel Cream – were found to contain the scheduled poisons hydroquinone and How important is it to protect against counterfeit products? tretinoin, which are prohibited in cosmetic This has become a big issue for the beauty industry. If I am buying a premium product, products in Malaysia. Products containing I want to be sure that what I am getting is an original. We do everything possible to either of the ingredients are classified as stay one step ahead of the counterfeiters. At our Aachen site, for example, we have pharmaceutical products that require regis- installed technology to help manufacturers identify folding boxes by the fibre structure tration with the Drug Control Authority and of the cardboard. A number of finishing techniques can also be used to protect can only be used under the advice of a against counterfeiting. Sometimes no further treatment of the packaging is necessary. healthcare professional. Dermoceutic told Cosmetic News The rlc group tripled its prestige beauty packaging sales from 2011 Weekly: “Despite strict controls we have to 2013. What was the secret to the company’s success? not gotten satisfactory responses from our Because we work across several industries, we are able to offer our customers the big- manufacturing partner on how this could ger picture. Companies in one industry benefit from another, ideas are passed back happen and how this can be prevented in and forth between different segments, and innovations can be adopted more quickly. the future. Dermaceutic has decided to brandpack, our centre of excellence for comprehensive packaging design, works for all permanently discontinue Spot Peel and target industries and transfers this expertise across the different industries. Our pro- Spot Cream and will no longer work with duction sites in Aachen, Hanover and the Polish city of Poznań have a clear focus on the contract manufacturer which exclusive- the beauty industry. We have also invested u12m in the Beauty division over the last ly supplied the Spot products. None of the three years, particularly in sustainable and in-line finishing and safety technologies. other Dermaceutic products are affected Kathleen Armstrong, London by these issues.”

5 • CosmeticNews Weekly No608/July 14 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com Suppliers

PACKAGING chain partners, has launched a new web- The company was founded in 1829 in site celebrating the benefits of metal Nordhorn by brothers Anton and Carl Bioplan separates and blends packaging and its sustainability agenda. Linde, as a tobacco packaging manufac- Bioplan-Le Papillon US has announced the Whymetalpackaging.com aims to turer, relocating to Denekamp in 1905. launch of Fusion, a mini pack that com- highlight the long-lasting nature of metal Now an international producer of folding bines a thermoformed measured dose and and the connectivity between perma- cartons for cosmetics and other a sachet. The company says the product nent, real recycling, resource efficiency industries, it was acquired by Clondalkin takes blister technology one step further and a working circular economy. The site Group in 2001 as part of the Group's by enabling two distinct formulas to blend is divided into three sections: Why international expansion. upon opening – especially formulas which metal; The benefits of metal packaging; Ken Haan, Managing Director of need to remain separate until use, to mix and The best of metal. Clondalkin Consumer Denekamp, said: “It liquid and powder, or to dampen wipes. “Our website will allow users to obtain is with great pride that we celebrate 185 It works by pressing the thermoformed clear answers to questions they may have years in business. Our company was element whose contents then spread into about metal packaging,” said Ellen founded on entrepreneurial spirit and the formula in the sachet. The sachet con- Wauters, Communications Manager of hard work, all of which remain firmly taining the combined product can then be Empac. “Whymetalpackaging.com, rooted in our culture and will continue to opened for use. The company says the together with other communication lead us into the future.” product is suitable for both small volumes initiatives, will ensure metal offers a very (serum, oil, make-up), as well as for larger attractive and visible sustainability Italian packaging sector ones such as or masks. agenda to its customers.” turnover passes u6bn mark The Italian packaging market broke the Showing the benefits of metal Clondalkin Consumer Denekamp u6bn mark in turnover, up 9.2% on the Empac (European Metal Packaging), the celebrates 185th anniversary previous, according to the second European association for producers of Netherlands based Clondalkin Consumer National Statistical Survey published by rigid metal packaging and their supply Denekamp is celebrating 185 years this year. UCIMA, the Italian Packaging Machinery

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6 • CosmeticNews Weekly No608/July 14 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com Suppliers

Manufacturers Association. Overseas trade reached almost u5bn, accounting for 83% of all turnover. Smaller companies, those with a turnover of up Albéa opens new China site to u5m accounted for 69.4% of the total uxembourg based packaging manufacturer Albéa has announced the opening but contributed just 10% of the total of its new facility in China. Located in Suzhou, which is near Shanghai, it will be turnover in the sector. In contrast, the Lthe only Albéa site to house the firm’s full range of capabilities: tubes, cosmetic 6.8% of companies that have a turnover rigid packaging (mascaras, , compacts, bottles) and dispensing systems. greater than u25m generated 63.8% of Each will be sited in a dedicated building. The company says the 30,000sqm, US$14m the overall turnover in the sector. Food factory is state of the art – highly automated, with integrated decoration and and beverages make up the largest assembly capabilities. segment (63.7%), followed by Suzhou is Albéa’s centre of excellence for mascara packaging (including pharmaceuticals. Cosmetics, chemicals brushes) and dispensing systems in China. The company has four other facilities in and other sectors (including tobacco and China (in Zhongshan, Shenzhen and Shanghai), each a centre of excellence for a tissues) have smaller market shares. particular type of packaging, as well as two sales offices. “The synergies between Albéa’s five industrial sites in China will enhance the INGREDIENTS company’s ability to meet a diverse range of customer needs, while providing a strong for sustainable growth in a vibrant region,” the firm said. Earthoil supplying Neal’s Yard Earthoil (Treatt) is working with UK based organic skin care company Neal’s Yard Heliae takes algae to Japan Remedies to supply the brand with argan seed oil from the Souss Valley area of eliae, a US based developer of advanced algae production technologies, has Morocco. The company says the oil has partnered with Japanese waste management and recycling company Sincere been sourced from the world’s only fair- HCorporation to form a joint venture and develop a commercial algae produc- trade producer – a cooperative of over 60 tion facility in Saga City, Japan. Named Alvita Corporation, it will combine Sincere women which was established in Morocco Corporation’s operational skill, distribution networks and knowledge of the Japanese in 2007. The cooperative members market with Heliae’s proprietary algae production technology to supply natural extract the argan oil using traditional astaxanthin, an antioxidant, to the growing health and wellness market in the region. skills and processes, and handle each “We choose our partners carefully, and the Sincere Corporation has a complementary aspect of the business themselves. culture combined with a long track record of success in Japan,” said Dan Simon, “We’re delighted to be working with President and CEO of Heliae. “This is just the beginning of what we believe will become Neal’s Yard Remedies to supply them with a long term partnership to deliver high quality algae products to multiple markets our fair trade argan oil,” said Melissa throughout the country.” Naish, Vegetable Oils Manager at Earthoil. “Through the great work that the cooper- ative has done, the ladies now have a Dermatologists has criticised the EU for plant species harvested in ‘biodiversity regular income which has not just failing to implement a ban, as a result of hotspots’ in Africa, Europe, Latin America enhanced the quality of their own lives which MI would still remain in many and the Asia-Pacific region for properties but also that of their families. Their leave-on and all hair products. such as UV protection and anti-ageing, as healthcare knowledge and overall literacy “There is no better time to eliminate well as efficacy against age spots or hyper- have improved too, demonstrating the these harmful and unnecessary ingredi- pigmentation. The project is aiming to benefits that can be achieved through ents from beauty products,” said Peter identify the five most promising ingredients ethical and sustainable practices.” Melchett, the Soil Association’s Policy for both cosmetic and agrochemical use. In Director. “It is not right that a consumer addition, it will create an extensive library Soil Association calls for ban needs a degree in chemistry to be sure of compounds, to be made available for The UK’s Soil Association is calling for a they are avoiding such ingredients in a future use by researchers or commercial ban on two preservatives found in high skin or face product, nor that the EU are enterprises. street health and beauty products: repeatedly failing to eliminate these Agrocos Project Coordinator, methylisothiazolinone (MI) and preservatives when the evidence about Professor Leandros Skaltsounis of the methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI). MI their harmful effects is so clear.” National and Kapodistrian University of and MCI are added to selected products Athens, said: “By the end of the project, to prevent growth of bacteria and yeasts Agrocos explores biodiversity novel compounds drawn from the but, the Soil Association says, are known for natural ingredient benefits resources offered by global biodiversity to cause a range of skin irritations and EU Horizon 2020 funded project Agrocos is are expected to be available for use as rashes. The British Association of examining molecules extracted from 1,800 new ingredients in cosmetic products.”

7 • CosmeticNews Weekly No608/July 14 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com Retail

fragrances such as Dolce & Gabbana’s Velvet Collection and Bond No. 9’s Kiehl’s arrives in Montmartre Harrods collection, as well as world exclusives such as London based n 4 July, L’Oréal owned pharmacy brand Kiehl’s opened a new own-name Thomas Kosmala. store in the Montmartre district of at 2 rue de Sèvres. The firm is Mia Collins, Head of Beauty at O already present in the street, in the Bon Marché department store at Harrods, said: “As fine fragrances become number 24. The new 92sqm space stocks the whole range of Kiehl’s offerings, but ever more desired for their sophistication also includes a dedicated barbershop for men, offering hot towels, facial scrubs, and power to captivate the senses, we and moisturising. The look and feel is similar to other Kiehl’s outlets, with were inspired to develop a unique whitewashed brick walls, wooden cabinets, blackboards announcing the products and perfumery concept.” wooden flooring. Harrods’ Salon de Parfums will open The move to cater for men is partly driven by the firm’s recent launch of Oil in September. Eliminator, a range of three products consisting of an exfoliator (u23 for 200ml), anti- shine detoxifying mist (u21 for 180ml) and absorbent moisturiser (u25 for 75ml). Superdrug’s Beauty Studio The firm flagged up the official opening by giving away travel-size products arrives in southern Wales outside the store at 6.30pm every evening from 25 June onwards. Each day had a UK beauty and health retailer Superdrug theme, such as moisturisation or anti-ageing, and products included Ultra Facial (AS Watson) has opened a new beauty Cream and , Powerful Strength Line Reducing Concentrate, Powerful store concept in Cardiff, Wales. Wrinkle Anti-Ageing Set and Ultra Light Daily UV Defense. The shop’s Beauty Studio features a A selection of French celebrities were invited to the launch event, ensuring Brow & Lash bar (a service Superdrug now coverage in French media. These included former Miss France Sylvie Tellier, TV offers in over 200 of its UK stores) with an presenter Doria Tillier, actor Thierry Frémont and literary critic Augustin Trapenard. enhanced service including lash Patricia Mansfield-Devine, Rennes extensions and HD Brows. The shop will also offer a new Gel service as well as Superdrug’s first in-store hair Artdeco opens Parisian flagship salon, Hairspace. This follows Superdrug’s in-store launch of British reality TV star erman premium make-up brand Artdeco has opened the doors to its first Lauren Pope’s brand Hair Rehab London. European flagship store. Located at 53 rue de la Chaussée d’Antin in Paris, The Cardiff store will also feature a Gthe 170sqm shop has been designed around the brand’s cult product: range of cosmetics, skin care and hair furnished in black and white matte and gloss, it aims to give off the feel of an brands and a zone dedicated to perfume. adjustable beauty box. The shop is divided into three sections – Make-up, Nails and Skin Care – each staffed by beauty experts. Two make-up bars in the graphic and FAR Cosmetics aims to decipher design space enable customers to learn how to apply professional make-up with the the natural product problem help of Artdeco beauty consultants. Artisan hair products brand FAR “The store opening marks the start of a new chapter for the brand in France,” said Cosmetics has published a paper Roger Meynlé, Managing Director of Artdeco Cosmetics France and owner of the Paris designed to help retailers explain natural store. “Our rapid growth has brought us to this next level, that’s why we have decided brands to their customers. to open our own store. With outstanding service and this amazing location, we think The 20-page white paper, entitled the store is going to be a favourite destination for our target group.” ‘Helping Your Customers Understand: What Is a Natural Cosmetic?’ aims to help retailers understand some of the most Harrods rolls out retail concept Ford and Xerjoff. The corridor between widely accepted natural product aimed at fragrance aficionados the brand boutiques will feature standards, and to provide suggestions on London luxury department store Harrods architectural columns, embedded vitrines how to decide if a product maker is is unveiling a new retail concept for and decorative light fittings along the actually being true to their natural perfume connoisseurs. The 5,090sqft corridor walls. product claims. Salon de Parfums will present some of the At the end of the corridor will be a The paper also includes a list of world’s finest and rarest scents, alongside separate fragrance gallery, an oval-shaped references as well as a shortlist of bespoke perfume creation and room with luxurious seating and a internationally recognised natural product personalisation services. The space will statement crystal chandelier, stocking a standards that it suggests retailers can also feature 11 dedicated boutiques for selection of scents that the retailer says use as a guide for stocking their shelves leading brands including Bond No. 9, By have been chosen “for their ability to and for answering consumer questions. Kilian, , Clive Christian, Creed, Dior, excite the senses of the most discerning A copy of the report is available on , Henry Jacques, Roja Dove, Tom perfume buyers”. This will include the brand’s website.

8 • CosmeticNews Weekly No608/July 14 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com Products

Josie Natori’s self-titled scent American fashion designer Josie Natori’s House of Natori, has introduced its latest Japan’s Fancl introduces a fragrance, called Josie. The Josie scent opens with a vibrant seasonal summer face powder accord of Asian pear and bergamot mixed apan’s Fancl is introducing limited quantities of a seasonal cosmetic designed to with dewy leaves, before revealing its mitigate the stress that Japan’s summer weather can cause the skin. With outdoor heart of sampaguita, freesia and wild Jtemperatures typically around 30C and humidity in the high 70s contrasting with orchid. The base notes of the fragrance the dry, cooler air-conditioned air indoors, both skin and make-up experience more comprise sandalwood and white musk stress than usual. Periodic typhoons only add to the problems. intensified with patchouli. Called Shining Lucent and described as a ‘watery powder’, the new product The packaging captures the brand’s contains moisturising ingredients that will make the user’s face feel both comfortable design aesthetic with bold black and and cool. In addition, it also contains Fancl’s new formulation of hyaluronic acid, white graphic columns. From the side, the which helps increase the moisture retention of the skin surface, in concert with other bottle’s modern silhouette is juxtaposed ingredients. The enhanced moisturisation is important in withstanding the drying with a see-through dip tube in the effect of air conditioners. fragrance’s signature red. To deal with the problems of excessive oiliness, notably in the T-zone (forehead, Priced between US$22 and $95, the nose and chin), the product contains a ‘sebum adsorption powder’, that adsorbs Josie fragrance is available from select excess oils. This helps keep make-up in place and also helps maintain a silky skin prestige department stores. surface during the hot weather. The Shining Lucent watery powder will be sold through FANCL’s own directly YouTube vlogger Bethany managed stores and by mail order at ¥2,057 (inc tax) from 18 July. Mota gets her own perfume David Kilburn, Tokyo On 28 July, teenage YouTube vlogger Bethany Mota, who runs the channel MacBarbie07, will launch her eponymous Fifth Ferrari fragrance sets off first fragrance. The perfume was created by Beth Pritchard, Principal and Strategic errari, known for its signature rosso corsa or racing-red sports cars and iconic Advisor for Sunrise Beauty Studio, which stallion logo, will release the latest in its luxury men’s fragrance line, Vetiver develops and manufactures third-party FEssence, in October. The fragrance is the fifth in Ferrari’s Essence collection, cosmetics products for major retailers. It which includes Essence Oud, Essence Musk, Leather Essence and Cedar Essence, has head notes of bergamot, ‘red berry which are available at ferrarifragrances.com. mélange’ and white peach; heart notes of To differentiate the new fragrance from hundreds of other vetiver-based candy floss, praline and strawberry flower; on the market Emilie Coppermann, a chemist by training and now much sought-after and base notes of vanilla sugar, crystallised nose with Symrise, blended petitgrain, grapefruit, red pepper berries, cardamom musk and creamy woods. (wrapped in refined orris), hazelwood, tonka bean, patchouli, cedarwood and coffee to The scent will cost US$25 for a 50ml create the light, modern scent. She has created a host of other luxury perfumes, eau de parfum or $12 for a shimmer including Burberry Brit Sheer (2007) and Van Cleef & Arpels Rêve (2013), and was rollerball and comes in a heart-shaped recently awarded the prestigious Prix Lalique by the Centre du Luxe et de la Création bottle whose cap features a removable in Paris. heart-shaped charm that can be worn on A dark grey lacquer-finish bottle in the metallic Grigio Silverstone of the Ferrari a necklace, and a black satin bow. GT colour library encases the scent. In the UK, it will be available exclusively at The fragrance has been produced in Harrods for £79.00. collaboration with American women’s Erika Hatva, London fashion retailer Aéropostale, which already sells a Bethany Mota fashion collection, and will be sold via their Nocibé has make-up covered powder shadow (nine shades), mixing solu- stores, which number around 850 in the French perfumery chain Nocibé has tion for use with loose powders, wet & dry US, mostly based in malls. The firm’s launched a comprehensive new line of shadow (23 shades), cream shadow (six target market is girls aged 14-25. professional make-up: Artist by Nocibé. shades), eyebrow palette (two shades), eye 19 year old Mota specialises in There are 220 skus in the range, cre- contour crayon (six colours, to be ‘haul’ videos on YouTube, where she ated in collaboration with make-up artist launched in September), micro precision displays her most recent purchases and Victoria Monvoisin, with prices around eye crayon (three colours, September reviews them. She has around 6.5 30% higher than the firm’s Classique line. launch), double-ended mascara (black million followers, who call themselves The range for eyes alone includes: eye only),volume mascara; mascara Wonder Motavators. base, liquid eyeshadow (six colours), loose Volume (three colours), make-up corrector

9 • CosmeticNews Weekly No608/July 14 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com Products

Thirty-year-old Brazilian model Raquel Zimmermann has been confirmed as the Pomellato looks to olive face of the advertising campaign for the wood with new fragrance new fragrance. his month, Italian jewellery house Pomellato is launching 67 Artemisia, a unisex Annick Goutal’s Force of Nature fragrance based on olive wood, which has a fruity aroma when dried, and In September, French niche perfume Tartemisia, which is traditionally used as a washing herb in Italy. brand Annick Goutal will launch its new Created by perfumer Annick Menardo of , it has head notes of lemon, feminine fragrance, Vent de Folie (Force mint and neroli; heart notes of artemisia, absinthe, jasmine and violet; and base notes of Nature). of olive wood, vetiver, patchouli and musk. The fragrance is available as an edt in three Created by Camille Goutal, head of sizes – 30ml, 50ml and 100ml – costing u36, u51 and u72 respectively. The juice is pale the firm and daughter of founder Annick, green and comes in a clear, heavy-bottomed ovoid bottle with the letters 67 – the year and in-house perfumer Isabelle Doyen, it of Pomellato’s inception – embossed on the side. There will also be two ancillary has head notes of sweet pea, hedione products: body (u29 for 200ml) and and shower gel (u25 for 200ml), molecule, which lends radiant warmth to which come in tall cylindrical bottles. floral notes, and blood orange zest; heart The products will be available from the firm’s own-name stores and selected notes of geranium, raspberry and black- points of sale in Italy, France, Switzerland and Austria. In the US, they will be available currant; and base notes of white musk from November onwards, in Pomellato boutiques and Saks Fifth Avenue. and cedar bark. The collection ties in with a new collection of silver jewellery created by the firm, The almost-clear juice comes in the which is known for its use of large stones and bright colours. firm’s usual fluted bottle for feminines, in 50ml and 100ml format, with a gold cap and ivory ribbon around the neck. It will L’Occitane’s Aguapé collection cost u74 or 50ml and u98 for 100ml from Annick Goutal shops and points of sale. The fragrance will also be available as gets Brazilian introduction a limited edition of 150 bottles customised rench fragrance firm L’Occitane en Provence has announced the launch of the by Parisian graffiti cooperative Nasty, Aguapé collection of fragrance and body products on its Brazilian website. The which will also be staging editions for use Frange is part of its L’Occitane au Brésil line of products based on, and in shop windows. The limited edition will sometimes including extracts from, native Brazilian plants. be available only at the boutiques in St Inspired by the fragrant Eichhornia crassipes water hyacinth from the Pantanal region, Sulpice and Castiglione, and via the which is said to have a watery, delicate scent, the Aguapé range currently includes an e-commerce site annickgoutal.fr. (Brazilian reals R$65 for 100ml, R$85 for 300ml), deodorising moisturising body lotion (R$50 for 250ml), liquid soap (R$40 for 250ml), vegetable Infallible nails from L’Oréal Paris based transparent soap (R$11 for 75g) and a water hyacinth-shaped solid soap (R$21 L'Oréal Paris is set to introduce Infallible for 100g). It is understood that other products will be added later, including shampoo, Nails, a collection of 12 new double- conditioner and a no-rinse shine spray. ended nail polishes that use a two-step The packaging for the range was designed by L’Occitane’s Artistic Director, Olivier process to deliver a gel-lacquer result Baussan, and the bottles are the same shape as for the other au Brésil ranges. which the brand claims can last up to Patricia Mansfield-Devine, Rennes 12 days. The collection works in two steps: the first is using high-intensity, super- pencil, eyebrow gel and sparkling eyebrow Narciso Rodriguez will launch its latest fine pigments that provide an opaque gel (September launch). fragrance, Narciso Eau de Parfum. colour, while Flex-Resin coats the nail The range also includes a facial make- The scent has head notes of gardenia with a mesh that resists chipping; Step up range and colours for lips and nails, and rose; a heart note of musk; and base two uses smart magnifying agents that with prices ranging from u12.95 to u18.95, notes of vetiver, black cedar and white crystallise the mesh, curing the colour to as well as accessories such as brushes, cedar. The juice appears to be white, a solid surface. temporary eyeshadow tattoos and a false thanks to a bottle design featuring a white The gel formula contains crystal eyelash applicator. The products will be centre and a clear, heavy bottom. polymers that rise to the polish surface, available from all Nocibé stores. “I wanted to create an extremely sexy amplifying colour while magnifying shine fragrance that would turn a man’s head,” and plumping nail volume. Narciso Rodriguez prepares said Rodriguez in the firm’s advance press The Infallible Nails collection will be to launch Eau de Parfum release. “The sensuality becomes a little bit available later this month, with prices In September, New York fashion house more sexy, a little bit more intoxicating.” starting at £7.

10 • CosmeticNews Weekly No608/July 14 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com New media & marketing

TOP TWEETS ON THE STREET Cottage creates TV campaign We track the latest beauty n 7 July, French personal care brand Cottage began its first TV advertising news in 140 characters campaign. The 12-second humorous spots promote the firm’s gourmand Oshower creams. They feature stop-motion ice cream vans filled with Cottage products, which magically transform lamp posts into shower heads as they drive by, @ecostorenz while a voiceover announces the ‘flavours’, such as liquorice, caramel, vanilla, etc. J&J Procter & Gamble, Colgate- The catchphrase for the campaign is “Prenez la vie du bon Cottage” (“Get the Palmolive & Avon phasing out triclosan Cottage good life”). - quiet about replacement buff.ly/VoOyAv “It’s a case of using the original range of the brand, the one we all know,” said Sandrine Flého, the firm’s Director of Marketing. She added that the firm chose @LuxurySociety July for the TV campaign as it is France’s peak month for sales of shower products. The Business of #Beauty Cottage has been owned since 1990 by the Panther Group, which relaunched http://ow.ly/yTtjK #Luxury Brands Look the brand in 1999. It is distributed in large and medium stores in France, and in To for Growth the semi-selective market overseas. The firm has been undergoing a strong upturn in sales, with a rise in 2011 of 23% and the same again in 2012 and 31% in 2013. @TopNewsReviews Shraddha Kapoor to Endorse a Cosmetic Brand: http://bit.ly/1mTIqtO among favourite @insideinvestor Colgate-Palmolive to open factory in online destinations in France #Myanmar http://bit.ly/1jQo0Nj ccording to global digital think tank L2, Yves Rocher holds the top spot as the most preferred online shopping destination for beauty products in @PaulasChoice A France. Thirty-two percent of 1,340 respondents to L2’s 2014 Digital IQ Index: Will coconut oil treat acne? Does it work Beauty | France named Yves Rocher their favourite destination for beauty and personal as a natural sunscreen? The coconut care products. No other brand site made it as one of the top e-commerce truth files http://bit.ly/1cFJARf destinations. The report revealed Amazon.fr as France’s largest internet retailer overall with an @passworksio average of 14 million monthly unique visitors in the third quarter of 2013, followed become a more digital brand, closely by Sephora, which holds 27% of the retail market for beauty in France. an example of #MobileWallet marketing L2 put the success of Yves Rocher down to its being one of the few mass brands & #Passbook usage. tinyurl.com/mzjne7b not available on Amazon.com. The botanical beauty brand has also invested in video content, such as a tutorial about suntanning and protection for various skin types, @Perfume_Society and has a ‘BlogZine’ run by journalists, scientists, mothers and other professions ‘Fragrance is my language for translating giving situation-specific beauty and packing tips featuring Yves Rocher products. the world, it is how I ‘see’ and capture many memories’ - @mejomalone Jumei: raising the standards of @repaqconsulting This cosmetic brand moved to flexible packages to reduce the environmental China’s online beauty industry impact of its packaging. umei, China’s leading online retailer of beauty products, has announced the http://ow.ly/i/5ZK2p introduction of new measures in product quality control in the country’s online Jbeauty industry. Beginning this month, Jumei will start publishing monthly product @noonchi_us audits of supplier and third-party merchants on its website and significantly Yes, this Korean cosmetics ad is really expanding the sample size of spectrum analysis testing. real. Sadly. http://tinyurl.com/mwzp2on The company said its new measures were aimed at reinforcing the its reputation for product quality and reliability with Chinese consumers and were designed to improve @latimes upon the previous system, which was based on monthly random checks of 12% of third- MAC's cosmetics collaboration with party beauty product merchants using outside testing laboratories. Using this system, "The Simpsons" will be available for pre- Jumei said it has been able to identify merchants that were unable to pass quality checks order at Comic-Con http://lat.ms/1ouzjxJ and actively terminate their contracts before any products were shipped to customers.

11 • CosmeticNews Weekly No608/July 14 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com Looking ahead

2-3 SEPTEMBER 25-27 SEPTEMBER PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY AZERBAIJAN SPOTLIGHT BEAUTY DELHI Venue: Baku, Azerbaijan Venue: New Delhi, India Email: [email protected] Email: jasmine@ www.beauty.iteca.az The conundrum of free-from professionalbeauty.in he European cosmetics industry should steer away from www.professionalbeauty.in 25-27 SEPTEMBER claiming its products are ‘free from’ preservatives and other BEAUTIKA WORLD Tsimilar ingredients, which could give consumers the wrong 9-10 SEPTEMBER Venue: Mumbai India impression, according to Martin Seychell, Deputy Director-General IN-COSMETICS BRASIL Email: marketing@ for Health and Consumers at the European Commission. Speaking Venue: São Paulo, Brazil exhiferencemedia.com at last month’s annual conference organised by Cosmetics Europe Email: incos.helpline@ www.beautikaworld.com in Brussels, he said: “All that preservative-free claims do in the reedexpo.co.uk long term is to reinforce the stigmatisation of preservatives, since www.in-cosmeticsbrasil.com 30 SEPTEMBER-1 OCTOBER consumers believe they are wrong.” PACKAGING INNOVATIONS Seychell argued that preservatives have an important role to 9-11 SEPTEMBER Venue: London, UK play. “Many cosmetic products remain in consumer homes for COSMEETING & CREATIVE Email: [email protected] months and their microbiological stability is important,” he BEAUTY PARIS 2014 www.easyfairs.com explained, adding: “nobody talks about this”. Venue: Porte de Versailles, Paris For Dr Gerald Renner, Director of Technical Regulatory Affairs Email: cosmeeting@ 30 SEPTEMBER-1 OCTOBER at Cosmetics Europe, free-from claims are not bad per se, but cosmeeting.com SPAMEETING EUROPE they do risk developing into something bad. “Maybe ‘free from www.cosmeeting.com Venue: Dubrovnik, Croatia colourants’ is OK, since it does not denigrate colourants – it Email: juliette.blanzy@ responds to a lifestyle choice,” he suggested. But other 17-19 SEPTEMBER spameeting.com representatives of the cosmetics industry taking part at the event INTERCHARM UKRAINE www.spameeting.com agreed that free-from claims referring to ingredients such as Venue: IEC, Kiev, Ukraine parabens, sulphates and silicone are “very stupid”, because they Email: intercharm@ 30 SEPTEMBER-1 OCTOBER suggest those substances are bad and when contained in pe.com.ua INNOCOS DIGITAL cosmetics, the whole product is bad. www.intercharm.kiev.ua/eng Venue: New York, US Cosmetics are among the most visible products on the innocosevents.com market, Seychell said, and consumers pick up their information 18-20 SEPTEMBER from the claims that are made by manufacturers and the BEYOND BEAUTY ASEAN 7-9 OCTOBER marketing messages used by companies. He stressed how Venue: Bangkok, Thailand BEAUTY AFRICA important it is that certain technologies used in consumer Email: pamela.foo@ Venue: Lagos, Nigeria products are not stigmatised. “Europe is completely out of the beyondbeautyasean.com Email: beautyafrica@ picture in biotechnology,” he explained, referring to the www.beyondbeautyasean.com informa.com continent’s reluctance to embrace the cultivation of genetically www.beautyafricaexhibition.com modified crops (GMOs). 23-24 SEPTEMBER Nanoparticles, which must be marked on the label when used MAKEUP IN NEW YORK 9-11 OCTOBER in cosmetics sold in the European Union (EU) as ingredients, is Venue: CENTER548, New York COSMOBEAUTÉ INDONESIA another technology that could be at risk of stigmatisation if not Email: contact@ Venue: Jakarta, Indonesia handled with care by the industry, Seychell warned. To avoid that, makeup-in-newyork.com Email: [email protected] he advised: “Industry should inform consumers about the benefits www.makeup-in-newyork.com www.cosmobeauteasia.com they can draw from using these technologies and make a link between the benefits of the products and the technology.” 23-24 SEPTEMBER 16-17 OCTOBER Since 11 January 2013, the cosmetics industry has had THE BEAUTY TRENDS & ANTI-AGEING & SPA CHINA to notify all cosmetic products containing nanomaterials to the INNOVATIONS CONFERENCE Venue: Beijing, China Commission through a ‘cosmetic products notification portal’, six Venue: London, UK Email: [email protected] months prior to placing them on the market. However, so far the www.beautytrendsconference. www.aascevents.com/en submissions do not seem to bear the expected quality, said com Seychell. But Renner defended the industry, saying notifying the 20-22 OCTOBER nanoparticle ingredients is a learning exercise for industry. He 24-26 SEPTEMBER COSME TOKYO believes industry and regulators need to quickly agree on what he COSMOBEAUTÉ THAILAND Venue: Tokyo Big Sight, Japan calls “a common sense approach which shows that nanomaterials Venue: Bangkok, Thailand Email: cosme-tokyo@ in cosmetics are safe and are controlled”. Email: [email protected] reedexpo.co.jp Carmen Paun and Méabh McMahon, Brussels www.cosmobeauteasia.com www.cosmetokyo.jp

12 • CosmeticNews Weekly No608/July 14 2014 • www.cosmeticsbusiness.com