THE SHOPKEEPER How Leslie H

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AN ISSUE OF WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY

VISIONARY OF THE YEAR THE SHOPKEEPER How Leslie H. Wexner Reinvented Beauty Retailing

WWD Beauty Inc 2013 AWARDS

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FEATURES

26 The WWD Beauty Inc Awards Our annual editor’s choice business-to-business awards honoring the beauty industry’s brightest people, places, products and ideas from 2013.

40 The Man Who Started It All Leslie H. Wexner, the founder, chairman and chief executive ofﬁcer of L Brands Inc. and recipient of the 2013 WWD Beauty Inc Visionary Award, revolutionized the American retail scene by keeping an unwavering eye trained on consumers.

DEPARTMENTS BEAUTY BULLETIN 14 Blushing Beauty Pink blooms for Spring. 16 Shelf Life Key products hitting stores now. CORNER OFFICE 18 Life at the Top Since assuming the head position at La Prairie, Patrick Rasquinet has led the luxe brand to meteoric growth.

21 My First Job Why the lessons Elana Drell Szyfer learned as a sales associate at a men’s store in New Jersey helped form who she is today.

21 Black Book Star stylist Serge Normant shares his New York City indulgences. CONSUMER CHRONICLES

22 The Big and the Beautiful WWD’s Rachel Brown assesses Costco’s newest beauty layout.

French beauty 24 Shopper Stalker Who’s buying what—and Marine Deleeuw, why—in Brooklyn. seen here at Dries Van Noten, was MISC the undisputed catwalk queen of 12 Pete Unplugged WWD’s executive editor of the Spring 2014 shows, walking beauty, Pete Born, assesses old-school brick-and- in 65 shows. mortar in an omnichannel world.

ON THE COVER: Leslie H. Wexner, founder, chairman and chief executive ofﬁcer of L Brands Inc., photographed exclusively for WWD Beauty Inc by Andrew Spear. CONTENTS Photo illustration by Julien Pacaud. PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI BY PHOTO

WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisﬁed with IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 206, NO. 122. SATURDAY, DECEMBER 14, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501- S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial 9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. Occasionally, we Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices.da Cana Post Publications Mail Agreement No. make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY SI NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, at wwdPrint@cdsfulﬁllment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

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BE AN INSPIRATION

EDITOR’S LETTER EDWARD NARDOZA EDITOR IN CHIEF, W WD

PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY JENNY B. FINE EDITOR The Merchant of Wow JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR orty years ago, Leslie H. Wexner, always an avid reader, made the decision MOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR to eschew fiction in favor of history and biographies because, in his view, BELISA SILVA BEAUTY MARKET EDITOR, MASS reality was much more compelling than make-believe. Yet Wexner’s JAYME CYK EDITORIAL ASSISTANT KATIE KRETSCHMER COPY EDITOR personal tale is the stuff that dreams are made of. In 1963, Wexner ART borrowed $5,000 from his aunt to start The Limited, a clothing store BARBARA SULLIVAN ART DIRECTOR geared towards young women. First-year sales soared to $160,000. Just six years F CONTRIBUTORS later, Wexner took the company public, with shares of The Limited offered at $7.25. SAMANTHA CONTI AND NINA JONES (London), MILES SOCHA (Paris), CYNTHIA MARTENS (Milan), MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN (Los Angeles), Today, the stock trades in the mid-60s range, and Wexner’s company, L Brands Inc., MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE (Berlin), AMANDA KAISER (Tokyo) has evolved into a $10 billion retail powerhouse in the personal care and lingerie PHOTO segments through its superstar formats: Bath and Body Works and Victoria’s Secret, CARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO DIRECTOR LEXIE MORELAND ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR as well as Pink, Henri Bendel and La Senza. The 76-year-old self-made billionaire JENNA GREENE ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR is the longest-serving chief executive of a Fortune 500 company, and he remains as CARTER LOVE BOOKINGS EDITOR EILEEN TSUJI PHOTO COORDINATOR vitally involved in the business today as when he founded the company 50 years ago. ROBERT COHEN PHOTO FACILITATOR JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN, He’s also as outspoken as ever—most recently sparking a fierce industry-wide debate THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOGRAPHERS when he proclaimed department stores irrelevant. CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Whether or not you agree with Wexner on that particular point, his impact on RUVEN AFANADOR, KENJI AOKI, DAN BORRIS, NIGEL DICKSON, HENRY LEUTWYLER, MARK HANAUER, MICHAEL NAGLE, beauty and retailing is undisputed. And for a year that saw so much activity in the JEFF RIEDEL, PHILIPPE SALOMON, DAVID LEWIS TAYLOR, YASU+JUNKO retail arena, we could think of no more-fitting honoree for WWD Beauty Inc’s 2013 Visionary of the Year award. Wexner recently sat down for a rare—and revealing—in- BEAUTY INC ADVERTISING PAUL JOWDY VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER depth interview with WWD’s executive editor of beauty, Pete Born. For a fascinating PAMELA FIRESTONE ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER look at Wexner’s career and life, turn to “The Man Who Started It All” on page 40. ELLIE GHADIMI ADVERTISING DIRECTOR, BEAUTY JILL BIREN WEST COAST DIRECTOR Wexner is not the year’s only success story: 2013 was a year of innovation and BAVA GUGLIELMO INTERNATIONAL DIRECTOR OLGA KOUZNETSOVA ACCOUNT MANAGER, ITALY activity. We saw a myriad of new makeup lines, major retail revamps, a reexamining BRITTANY MUTTERER BEAUTY SALES ASSISTANT of core categories and businesses and an influx of new names into the industry. MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES The WWD Beauty Inc awards celebrates the best of the best. As always, our editor’s JANET MENAKER EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING EMILY CORTEZ EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, CREATIVE SERVICES choice business-to-business awards recognize the brands, products, people and KRISTEN M. WILDMAN EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, EVENT MARKETING JILL WEISKOPF ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, PUBLIC RELATIONS retailers that propelled the industry forward this year. Our coverage begins on page JENNIFER PINCUS DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING 26, and on behalf of everyone at WWD and Fairchild Fashion Media, I’d like to wish FABIO SALLES CREATIVE DIRECTOR JULIA DONAHUE COPY DIRECTOR all of the winners our warmest congratulations. —JENNY B. FINE JENNIFER BORCK SENIOR MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING ALISSA GROSS INTEGRATED MARKETING MANAGER MICHAEL FOUNTAS EVENT MARKETING MANAGER SHAMILA SIDDIQUI INTEGRATED MARKETING MANAGER JULIE JACOBY EVENT MARKETING MANAGER OLIVIA SPADAFORE MARKETING MANAGER ELLYN PULEIO DIGITAL DEVELOPMENT MANAGER AMANDA MULLAHEY ASSOCIATE INTEGRATED MARKETING MANAGER ANNA MESKISHVILI ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER MATT ROWAN DIGITAL DEVELOPMENT COORDINATOR CHRISTINA MASTROIANNI PUBLIC RELATIONS ASSISTANT NADIA BABAR MARKETING ASSISTANT

PRODUCTION DAVID GREENBERG GENA KELLY VICE PRESIDENT, MANUFACTURING CAROLYN HOLBA JULIA GOLDIN AND CHRIS WENGIEL GROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTOR CLAUDIA LUCAS AND KEVIN HURLEY PRODUCTION DIRECTOR HER SON, MAX GINA BOSWELL DAUGHTER ISABEL JILL BREINER ASSOCIATE PRODUCTION MANAGER

CIRCULATION FLASHPOINT ELLEN DEALY SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR JOHN CROSS PLANNING AND OPERATIONS DIRECTOR PEGGY PYLE MARKETING DIRECTOR KUDOS! ALISON EHRMANN MARKETING DIRECTOR SUZANNE BERARDI SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Beauty’s power players came out in full force LYNNE GREENE ALISON CHRISTIE ASSISTANT MARKETING MANAGER in November to celebrate their own. Five women were honored at CEW’s 2013 Achiever Awards—Karen Buglisi, Carolyn Holba, Julia FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA SUZANNE REINHARDT CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER AGNES LANDAU Goldin, Claudia Lucas and Agnes Landau—at MELISSA BRECHER CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER an emotion-ﬁlled but festive luncheon. One DAN SHAR VICE PRESIDENT, GENERAL MANAGER, DIGITAL OUNDATION BY JOHN CALABRESE BY OUNDATION KAREN BUGLISI consensus on what it takes to get to the top? NICOLE ZUSSMAN VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Killer shoes and a keen understanding of MICHAEL ATMORE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT DEVON BEEMER FINANCE DIRECTOR team dynamics. The mood was jolly at the JANET JANOFF BUSINESS MANAGER Fragrance Foundation’s Circle of Champions CARMEN MENDOZA ASSISTANT OPERATIONS MANAGER Awards Dinner, where Art Spiro was honored. Designed to be a roast, most of the speakers had a dicult time ﬁnding anything negative NANCY BUTKUS CREATIVE DIRECTOR to say about the popular executive. Said the PETER W. KAPLAN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR self-eacing Spiro on accepting his award, “I know I’m not the most prestigious GINA SANDERS PRESIDENT & CEO champion in the circle, but I’m truly the

most appreciative.” F CHINSEE; FRAGRANCE GEORGE BY CEW PHOTOS E. SCOTT BEATTIE ART SPIRO

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The Dance of Floors WWD’s PETE BORN analyzes the recent explosion of renovated, revamped and reenergized department-store beauty ﬂoors.

urprisingly, in this omnichannel world not all retail investment is of conceiving a brand first, then distributing it where suitable. As the Lauder headed for digital. This fall, a pile of cash has come home to the group built critical mass on the selling floor, followed by L’Oréal and others, the world of brick-and-mortar, and just in time for the holidays. cosmetics department became a destination—not just an impulse attraction. There has been a seemingly rapid succession of brightly lit, Brands built clienteles with round upon round of new-product launches and sparkling new and expanded renovations of department store promotional firepower of direct mail and gift-with-purchase sales-builders. beauty selling floors, with unveilings hitting a crescendo of one a Beauty became a portal for the store and its various other departments. week this fall. In years past, there was the high-tech dazzle of the As Terry J. Lundgren, president, chief executive officer and chairman of Macy’s new Bloomingdale’s floor at 59th Street, followed by a partial redo of the Saks Inc., said recently, “Our cosmetics department is tied to the full store; this is our SFifth Avenue floor in the flagship, then the modernizing of Lord & Taylor’s front door. If we don’t make a good first impression with cosmetics, the shopping flagship beauty floor. experience is lost. Cosmetics is intended to be our best foot forward.” But the trend shifted into high gear this year with the beginning of Macy’s $400 Some others view the motivation as a fight for market share while shoring up million renovation of its Herald Square flagship, the enlargement of the fragrance the department stores’ defenses against the growing challenge of Sephora, which component at Saks and the Barneys New York transformations on Madison has had a profound impact on cosmetics retailing and merchandising in the last Avenue and in Beverly Hills. Then Hudson’s Bay Co. reworked its floors in six decade. Terry Darland, president of LVMH Beauty, points out that Sephora has stores in Canada, and Nordstrom launched a whole new 16 stores in Manhattan alone, with little cannibalization. beauty concept that is due to be expanded to a total of “If you want to see what is trending in cosmetics, go walk nine stores by January. There also is the long-discussed “The surprise around a Sephora for a few hours,” she says. $200 million redo of Saks on Fifth Avenue, a subject that Arnold Aronson, managing director of retail strategies was rekindled following the chain’s acquisition by Richard should be not that at Kurt Salmon, notes that in terms of contribution to Baker and his recruitment of Marigay McKee from net profit, “in terms of percentage, cosmetics is bigger Harrods as Saks’ new president. Sources speculate that the department stores are than many other departments in a store.” He adds that ground floor will be redone with a target date of 2015. A doing it; the surprise “the cosmetics companies have done a pioneering job in Saks spokeswoman said there is no comment at this time. clientelling.” How to lure customers back has been a hot There was a similar report about Bergdorf Goodman, but is why everyone topic among department store retailers in the last couple a spokeswoman said there are currently no such plans. years as the market-share skirmishes have heated up. Meanwhile in Paris, both Guerlain and Marionnaud have isn’t doing it.” So how important is beauty? Karen Grant, vice redone their flagships on the Champs–Elysees. president and global industry analyst at the NPD Group All this investment in beauty retailing—coming in Inc., cites some publicly available figures showing that such a concentrated time—begs the question: Why all of a sudden? It also makes beauty generates 12 percent of total store sales at Saks, 11 percent at Nordstrom a loud statement—considering all the drilling and sawing—about the essential and 15 percent at Dillard’s. Beauty’s share of sales at Macy’s can be considered importance of the more than $11 billion prestige beauty business in the life of in the same range, she estimates. It also can be deduced that beauty has been North American department stores. gaining on in-store competition for sales. “Historically, we continue to see that “The surprise should be not that department stores are doing it; the surprise is prestige beauty outpaces the total department store,” she says. As the latest why everyone isn’t doing it,” observes Leonard A. Lauder, chairman emeritus of the available example, the September figures showed total prestige cosmetics sales Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. and arguably the most astute connoisseur of department up 6.7 percent while department store revenues as a whole were down 1 percent. stores in the industry. Lauder maintains that the cosmetics business has proven its The spate of floor renovations may also be motivated by a need to compete mettle during the recession as a P&L mainstay. “We’ve reached a historical tipping with cyber retailers, Grant theorizes. “Everyone is talking about showrooming,” point,” he says, referring to “the realization on the part of department stores that she says. “[Customers] come in and don’t buy. The greater the environment, during the recession [the cosmetics departments were] the bedrock of their sales the more likely is the hope that [shoppers] will finish that transaction in-store growth, profitability and sales generation. Those three things give them a stability and go on to other adjacencies,” she says, referring to nearby departments, like in sales and earnings that no other department can bring them.” fashion accessories. “The majority of sales are still going to be generated in the In addition to citing studies showing beauty brands generating more sales on a brick-and-mortar space,” Grant notes, adding that the objective is to make the unit basis “than almost anything,” Lauder ticks off a list of profit-fattening extras: online and offline work together.

“guaranteed sales, no markdowns, demonstration paid and advertising paid.” Darland at LVMH observes that as the entry to a store, a beauty department A M KE RR He should know. Lauder has devoted his long career to fomenting a sea change has to look good, and she has noticed that the architects of the renovations have in retail dynamics by leading a movement to create a community of brands brightened things up with a noticeable increase in counter illumination. She

designed to live exclusively in department stores, rather than the age-old method says: “To me, they are creating showtime.” S BY ILLUSTRATION

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Givenchy Mister Eraser Imperfection Correcting Pen, $33 Yves Saint Laurent Face Collector Palette in Rosy Blush, $50 Diptyque scented candle in Rosa Mundi, $60 Guerlain Météorite Light Revealing Perles of Powder in 04 Doré, $60 Nars Blush in Sex Fantasy and Satin Lip Pencil in Stourhead, $29, $25 Tarte Cheek Stain in Blushing Bride, $30 Dior Vernis Trianon Edition in Perlé 187, $25 Chanel No.5 The Hair Mist, $65

Photographed by Yasu + Junko

Blushing Beauty When it comes to spring beauty, Diana Vreeland would no doubt approve. After seasons of barely there color and nude shades, pink is emerging as a key trend. As the basis for seasonal makeup collections from the likes of Nars, Givenchy and YSL or as a packaging accent, brands are subtly transitioning back into brighter tones. “There is versatility in pink,” says François Nars, founder and creative director of Nars. “Whereas other shades of red lipstick might be a bit too bold, pink is an easier and softer way of embracing color on the lips and on cheeks.” This spring’s milky pinks are an especially attractive iteration, whether in an opaque blush from Nars or a delicately hued candle from Diptyque. Says Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute, “It looks romantic, soft and approachable.”–JAYME CYK

PHOTOGRAPHED BY YASU+JUNKO

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2011 16 WWD BEAUTY INC BEAUTY BULLETIN

Lancôme Visionnaire 1 Minute Blur, $55 StriVectin CC Clinical Corrector Advanced Antiaging Face Tint Broad Spectrum SPF 30, $39 Philosophy Miracle Worker Foundation, $40 SHISEIDO FUTURE JERGENS BB BODY COVERGIRL Physcians Formula SOLUTION LX SUPERIOR PERFECTING SKIN BOMBSHELL VOLUME Youthful Wear Spotless RADIANCE SERUM CREAM Building on its BY LASHBLAST Foundation, $14.95 For its most luxe line, Natural Glow franchise, MASCARA This double- Shiseido was inspired Jergens brings BBs to the sided mascara has a by the glow of Japan’s body with emollients volumizing base coat to Hanadama pearls to and its patent-pending thicken lashes on one increase the production self-adjusting tone end and a glossy topcoat of healthy cells and technology to ﬁrm and for a smooth consistency brighten skin. $225 hydrate skin. $12.99 on the other. $11.99

BLURRED LINES Following the alphabet-cream phenomena, a bevy of beauty brands are launching foundations that borrow from hero skin-care franchises. “We see [foundation] as the last step of your skin-care routine,” says Jill Scalamandre, senior vice president of Philosophy, which is launching foundation versions of its best-selling Miracle Worker and Hope in a Jar antiagers. “It’s only natural ELIZABETH AND DIOR CAPTURE BAREMINERALS JAMES NIRVANA TOTALE DREAMSKIN 7-DAY SKIN DE+OX to evolve your core skin-care franchises one more step.” WHITE Expanding their Dior’s key launch of MINERAL BRIGHTENING empire, the Olsen twins the season, Dreamskin, PEEL Beefing up its are partnering with combines active skin-care business, Sephora to interpret ingredients with Bareminerals’ weeklong SHELF LIFE their unique fashion botanicals from Dior’s peel consists of a vial point of view. The notes, gardens in Burkina Faso for each day to build on which allude to a floral to balance skin tone and the benefits of the prior musk, include peony, texture both instantly application. $75 What’s In Store muguet and musk. $75 and over time. $110 Rounding up December and January’s most innovative products. BY JAYME CYK

NOURISH ORGANIC CLINIQUE TARTE CC COLORED ColorProof DrySpell ULTRA-HYDRATING SUPERDEFENSE DAILY CLAY CC PRIMER Color Protect FACE CREAM ARGAN + DEFENSE MOISTURIZER Available in fives shades, Dry Shampoo, $26 POMEGRANATE Mass- BROAD SPECTRUM Tarte’s CC Primer has John Frieda Colour market body range Nourish SPF 20 Created for sections of pale pink Refreshing Gloss, $12.99 Organic is debuting skin consumers experiencing and sea foam green Redken Color Extend care, including this cream the first signs of aging, nutrient-rich clays to Magnetics Deep with pomegranate, argan this has an enzyme neutralize red tones, Attraction Mask, $20 oil and acai. $22.99 to help minimize UV brighten skin and even Vidal Sassoon damage. $45 out the overall tone. $34 Pro Series Color Finity 2 Minute Shade Precision Treatment, $3.99 TRESemmé’s first heat- activating treatment COLOR FAST A slew of at-home treatments designed to increase the longevity of hair-color services are hitting retail shelves in the TRESEMMÉ PANTENE PRO-V ELIZABETH first quarter. Marketers attribute it to KERATIN SMOOTH 7 DAY DAMAGE DETOX ARDEN EIGHT HOUR consumers’ ongoing desire to prolong the SMOOTH SYSTEM HEAT DAILY REVITALIZING CREAM SKIN PRO- efficacy of salon services. “Customers ACTIVATED TREATMENT SHAMPOO, DAILY TECTANT NIGHTTIME Together, keratin and REBUILDING CONDI- MIRACLE MOISTURIZER are not cutting out the salon completely,” thermal technology, TIONER, WEEKLY DEEP The nighttime iteration says Harry Josh, international creative which is activated by a CLEANSE PURIFYING of Arden’s cult cream consultant for John Frieda. “But they’re flat iron, bonds to the SHAMPOO These helps rebalance skin. looking to glosses and color-care cuticle for weeklong counteract the oxidative After one use, 95 percent smooth and frizz-free stress caused by copper of women reported skin shampoos to keep hair as healthy hair. $6.99 in water. $3.99-$4.99 was soothed. $39 as possible, while increasing time in

between color treatments.” DRURY DAN BY BLOB FOUNDATION IMAGES; MERRITT/GETTY JASON BY PERRY CHINSEE; KATY GEORGE BY PRODUCT PHOTOS

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18 WWD BEAUTY INC CORNER OFFICE

MASTER CLASS Life at the Top Since being named chief executive o cer of La Prairie three years ago, Patrick Rasquinet has overseen meteoric sales growth for the luxury skin-care brand. BY JENNIFER WEIL PHOTOGRAPHED BY MICHAEL NAGLE

n more ways than one Patrick Rasquinet sits on top of the world. Today, the president and chief executive ofﬁcer of La Prairie Group is literally there—in Switzerland’s Interlaken, 1,864 feet above sea level with the majestic Alps rising up on all horizons. He is in town to present La Prairie’s latest skin-care innovation, Cellular Swiss Ice Crystal, launching early next year, to international distributors and journalists. Since Rasquinet’s appointment three years ago, the executive Ihas kept ratcheting up growth for the high-end La Prairie brand, which was founded in 1978 and is part of the German personal- care behemoth Beiersdorf AG. In the nine months to Sept. 30, the brand posted sales growth of 5.4 percent, and is expected to end 2013 with an 8 percent gain despite the current inclement economic environment worldwide.

La Prairie is celebrating its 35th anniversary. To what do you attribute the longevity of the brand? It’s the fact that we could evolve but still stay very true to what we stand for. We always talk about ﬁve big values within La Prairie. These are luxury, innovation, efﬁcacy and the high- touch service—all this nicely wrapped into “Swissness.” Luxury skin care continues to outperform the market, despite a challenging global economic outlook. Why? What is resonating particularly well with consumers? People understand that skin is one of the most valuable assets they have, and that’s why they want to invest in a brand that is able to preserve this agelessness or this youthfulness of skin. They are looking for products that are extremely [effective. There are also] emerging populations that can now afford to buy luxury items. What is most challenging at the moment in luxury beauty, and how are you counteracting those challenges? It is the fact that today the environment is online. When you have brick-and-mortar it’s easy because you have a beautiful counter, you have a beauty adviser really providing high-touch services. But how do you translate this into the online world? IN BRIEF Patrick Rasquinet has spent his career rising through the ranks of Beiersdorf AG. Prior to We are relaunching our Web site starting in January and [as a becoming president and chief executive ocer of La Prairie Group in September 2010, consequence] we are redesigning our entire CRM program. Rasquinet was the general manager of Beiersdorf Russia and the CIS countries beginning in 2005. He also Another challenge is the global consumer—the luxury formerly held the positions of general manager at Nivea Seoul, in South Korea, and sales director at Beiersdorf consumer is a traveling consumer. How do you keep track Brazil. Rasquinet entered the German consumer goods giant in 1993, through Beiersdorf Belgium. Rasquinet if you really want to have a qualitative relation with your is a graduate of the Haute École Économique et Technique (EPHEC) in Belgium, where he studied consumer? At the airport [for instance] we try to register marketing and business administration. the consumers who are buying at the La Prairie store. It

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would be a dream to be able really to follow our relationship with our consumer through a CRM consumer across the world, wherever she is and program. It’s not only about addressing the specific wherever she is in contact with the La Prairie brand. need of the consumer, but we, as well, offer her the What’s been most effective for you in developing possibility to choose the texture with which she is the China? Where do you see yourself on the most comfortable. continuum and how do you see the market La Prairie is particularly known for its skin-care evolving? business. What is the strategy for building the Life at the Top We are currently very selectively distributed in China. makeup and fragrance sectors? [La Prairie will have 40 counters by the end of 2013.] Skin care is what La Prairie is best at and the core It is mainly in the first- and some second-tier cities, of our business. We definitely want to continue and we are now opening new doors at a quite high to expand foundation, because we believe it is the pace. We just opened a new door in Wuhan. We are perfect bridge between skin care and makeup. We do IN THE KNOW really starting to penetrate the second-tier cities and not have any focus on makeup. Our makeup range then maybe have a look at third-tier cities. In the is more of a convenience we offer our consumers. coming 18 months, we should have between 15 and Fragrance is not our core business. We do offer some, The Go-To Guru 20 new doors. but this will not be the focus of coming years. As the cofounder of CityBeautyGuide. [Our in-store, culture-specific] “Diamond Service” What is your assessment of the current retail com, a comprehensive ratings and has been tailored to Chinese specificities and scene? What excites you the most and why? reviews site for New York City spas and salons, Julie Kurtzman considers it her consumer expectations. We really train our beauty Today, you can buy in so many different touch personal calling to find the best beauty advisers within the cultural setting of China. points. It forces brands and retailers to rethink the services in town. Here, she shares her top- China is one of the countries where we advertise way they sell. I think we will see a lot of change five picks for a quick holiday manicure. the most heavily. Another important element is also to in the coming years but I strongly believe that have [exclusives]; the Chinese love to buy for gifting, brick-and-mortar will remain. It will be [an issue] so we need to offer them duo sets or special kits. of being consistent in the way you address your Blooming Nails & Spa What we call the affluent Chinese today is 120 consumer through the different channels. 260 Park Avenue South million people, which is around 8 percent of the total There’s a trend of brands opening [their own] 212-505-6245; bloomingnail.com WHO: Everyone there is really good. population. We estimate that by 2020 that number boutiques in strategic cities. Some are doing WHY: Full disclosure: It’s literally across the will … be around 280 million. So you can imagine an amazing job; it’s offering a new consumer street from my apartment. However, this corner that potential. experience and is an inspiration for us. We have a salon stands out. It’s huge, it’s spotless and I What other emerging markets hold the most few boutiques in Hong Kong, but we are rethinking can count on a flawless mani or pedi followed promise for the luxury sector and why? How do you this model and are looking into a new concept by an amazing chair massage every time. think they will evolve? of retail for our brand, as well. This would be, of Pinky Nail Salon A market we observe very closely is Brazil, which course, very selective in the sense that we do not 2240 Broadway at 80th Street is still extremely difficult because of the very high intend to have hundreds of stores. 212-877-4992 import taxes that turn luxury products into an What does a luxury shopping experience consist of WHO: Anyone Susan (the owner) recommends. inaccessible category there. The Brazilian affluent today? How are you evolving the experience? WHY: Pinky oers a great assortment of nail polish and a nice back massage while your nails consumers are traveling. A big part of our sales in the We developed Diamond Service. We try, as well, are drying. Always a good bet for a solid mani. malls in Miami—in Neiman Marcus, Saks or even to address consumers in their own language. We Bloomingdale’s—are done by Brazilians. We need to give different options of products [to try] and don’t Primp & Polish be present in Brazil more as a communication vehicle tell them what they need to buy. The second thing, 205 North 9th Street; Williamsburg than a selling place. which is essential for us, is facial services. Anywhere 718-965-1900; primpandpolish.com WHO: Anyone. They are all great! Russia is a very important market for us. We just we open a new door we try to have the possibility of WHY: Great manicures, reasonable prices and opened a subsidiary there at the end of last year and opening a [treatment] cabin. If we get the consumer walls of polish. Not to mention, it’s one of the plan to expand, but especially to increase the service in the cabin, she buys La Prairie. coolest looking nail salons I’ve ever seen. A we are providing. Russian travelers are also extremely How are you evolving La Prairie’s spa business? minimalist’s dream in white. important for us in some specific locations like We have 36 The Art of Beauty spas in 15 countries. Spa Butterfly Istanbul or Zurich. Our largest is definitely the U.S. We have a few 155 East 44th Street India is for us still a watch market. A few [other] locations in Europe. We want to work only with spas 212-682-6073; spabutterfly.com/butterfly/ very interesting markets that sound extremely that are able to offer really the ultimate service to WHO: Anyone. They are all really good. promising are Turkey and Thailand. the consumer, and we want also to have exclusivity WHY: Clean and spacious, and a very With skin care being such an arms race in terms of distribution of the brand within these spas and convenient midtown location. of claims, how do you cut through the clutter and fully trained therapists and aestheticians. La Prairie Tenoverten disseminate an effective message? recently opened one spa in Australia. We plan to very Le Parker Meridien lower level Consumers go to La Prairie for performance. We selectively open more spots. 119 West 56th Street would not be able to fight against the giants of the When you look ahead to La Prairie’s next 35 years, 212-767-1010; tenoverten.com industry in terms of communication, so we fight and what do you envisage? WHO: Yangdi. WHY: This jewel of a salon is heaven for any win the battles thanks to the products and the service We will remain true to our values and keep the polish junkie, with Tenoverten’s own line as we offer the consumer. consistency that drove our last 35 years of success. We well as full collections from RGB, Uslu Airlines, We are very selective in the communication we want to challenge ourselves to always deliver the best. Nars, Chanel and Essie. do and keep an extremely intense and engaged Always raise the bar in luxury.

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MATERIAL WORLD MAGIC WAND DuPont, in collaboration with Oriol & Fontanel, is dressing up Remember those pens with stackable nibs from when you were Surlyn, its packaging resin. It’s now possible to put material a kid? LF Beauty has created a similar idea for beauty bus BEST decorations into see-through beauty-product caps and with wands that can hold the likes of a concealer, eye shadow, bottles in a process called Dupont Surlyn 3D Technology, with liner, blush and lipstick or multiple lipstick shades at once, for IN BEAUTY? the D standing for design, decoration and depth. instance. The outer plastic container is customizable, too.

COOL TIDINGS Surface Matters Luxe Pack Monaco this October was chockablock with newfangled packaging ideas. Here, some of our favorites. —JENNIFER WEIL

JOIN

MAKEUP TUTORIAL IN TOUCH Now it’s possible to have your own makeup artist— Promens has created this airless jar for cream, aptly called CEW virtually—all the time. Screen Up 2L, the brainchild of DB Slidissime since it involves one easy ﬁnger swipe (think Technique, is a case holding a reﬁllable color-cosmetics iPhone or iPad) to release a dollop of product. The creation palette complete with a screen to view how-to videos boasts two patents—one for the pouch that’s injected into BY (or any other moving image). the container and another for the jar itself. 12-31-13 TO BE ELIGIBLE TO VOTE IN THE 2014 INSIDERS’ CHOICE

NAIL IT BEAUTY AWARDS After identifying a white space— namely, nail polish samples— NEW DIMENSION Bioplan Beauty executives went Like a ﬂexible squeeze-drink container, sachets about inventing Applidose. Replete are being marketed by LCE SA to hold beauty with a little brush (that appears in a cew.org products. Sporting a nozzle on top, they’re snap), each sample releases lacquer particularly good for samples or other on-the-go when pushed and contains enough

cosmetics items. polish to paint up to 23 nails. SERRAD SABINE BY CHINSEE; SURLYN GEORGE BY AND NAIL POLISH PHOTOS CONTAINER SQUEEZE

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MY FIRST JOB Elana Drell Szyfer Elana Drell Szyfer has had quite a year, ﬁrst being promoted from chief executive ocer of Ahava North America to head of the company’s global operations. In December, she’ll take on a new role, as executive vice president of Kenneth Cole, overseeing strategy, marketing and e-commerce.

My first job was at Sam’s Fine Men’s Clothing in Livingston, N.J. Family- TK ELANA DRELL owned, Sam’s was and still is the go-to neighborhood store for SZYFER Laboribus cusam, corem men’s and boy’s clothing. I worked weekends, summers and experionsed qui school breaks as a way to support my nonpaying New York City internships and my desire for financial independence. As a 17-year-old high school senior, I clearly couldn’t sell expensive men’s suits to titans of industry, so I was relegated to the boy’s department. It was here that I learned to tailor my message to different customers. Thirteen-year-old boys don’t come in to buy clothes alone—it’s usually an entourage (mother, grandmother, often a sibling). I quickly learned that I had to make everyone happy. I had to make sure the kid thought his clothes were cool. Getting his size right on the first try was key. A second round of trying on pants could kill a sale. For the mother, I had to quickly assess whether she wanted classic or something more contemporary and fashion forward (Italian sharkskin—yes, it was the Eighties). Lastly, I had to assure the grandmother—who was Elana Drell Szyfer as a teenager, and the store usually footing the bill—of the high-quality fabrics and reputable manufacturer. where she got her start. I was a young woman, literally, in a man’s world, and I learned a ton. Maurice and Jeff Cohen, Sam’s grandsons, practiced all of today’s marketing best practices before we had names for them. Customer service was king. We knew every customer by name. We practiced suggestive selling—if you bought those pants, these socks would look great. We were pioneers in customer-relationship management: “Hello Mrs. Stern, the new Coogi sweaters just arrived—I’ve put one away for Stanley.” I also learned a lot about managing a team. We were a diverse crew of old-world tailors, teenagers and mature men’s “haberdashers.” The structure was complicated, but it worked. It taught me that the best teams are a diverse collection of people with varied skills and personalities. Twenty-seven years later, Sam’s is alive and well. I am now that woman who is greeted by name, looking for a gift for her husband. And who knew that working at Sam’s would prepare me for a new role with Kenneth Cole, one of the industry’s leading men’s fashion companies?

BLACK BOOK Serge Normant Superstars like Gisele Bündchen and Julia Roberts have hair stylist Serge Normant on speed dial. When he’s not tending to their famous tresses, Normant can be found in one of his two salons or overseeing his namesake hair-care brand. Here, his go-to places to refresh and recharge.

ACUPUNCTURIST : 848 Washington St.; 119 Fifth Ave.; 212-533-8888 Dr. Frank Lipman 212-645-4100 “So easy.” FLORIST: 32 West 22nd St.; 212-255-1800 CELEBRATION DINNER: L’Olivier Florist Atelier APP: Instagram Strip House. 13 East 12th St.; 19 East 76th St.; 212-774-7676 “It’s light and visual, and I love 212-328-0000 “My favorite “The ﬂowers are so chic. They the easiness.” steak in town. I crave it.” have a point of view and a BAKERY: Patisserie Claude CHAMPAGNE: Veuve Clicquot personality that I love.” 187 West 4th St.; 212-255-5911 CHOCOLATIER: Leonidas MOBILE DEVICE: “I am obsessed with the 485 Madison Ave.; Blackberry and iPhone croissants. They remind 212-980-2806 “I know at some point I will me of the ones I ﬁnd in my DERMATOLOGIST: have to let go of the Blackberry, neighborhood in Paris.” Dr. Lisa Airan but I’m still holding on to it.” BUSINESS LUNCH: 910 Fifth Ave.; 212-400-0999 TRAINER: The Standard Grill Dr. David Colbert Eric Forlines 646-644-7738 SZYFER PHOTO BY MICHAEL JURICK BY PHOTO SZYFER

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UNDERCOVER SHOPPER The Big and the Beautiful Costco doesn’t think small—and now the warehouse retailer has beauty in its sights. WWD’s West Coast-based beauty editor RACHEL BROWN visits the retailer’s newest experiment in the category.

n a stand-up routine, comic Zach Galiﬁanakis Rico, and over 100 more than there are in New kids through college and paid off her home in the gets laughs at Costco’s expense. “I was leaving York. Perhaps the imbalance is why Costco can get nice Los Angeles neighborhood of Westwood. Hope, Costco today and thinking to myself, I hope I short shrift in media coverage out of New York, whose patronage of Costco dates back a decade, have seven years of dandruff,” he deadpans. The although the situation is partially because Costco can choose from plenty of stores to shop in, but she GE CHINSEE joke is funny because it rings so true. Costco makes no press-relations efforts. Once when I chooses Costco and chooses it often, visiting about Wholesale is a place for big things: big merch, mentioned possibly writing about the chain to a once a week to buy everything from socks to soap. big bargains, big stores (they run up to 205,000 New York editor, the editor belittlingly compared it She feels she can trust that Costco provides value, R GEO BY ODUCTS square feet) and big business. Costco’s net sales to the likes of a 99 Cents Only Store. she can get all of her shopping done in a single trip,

were close to $103 billion in the year ended Sept. 1, If I’ve learned anything from my years of she frequently discovers new stuff and, of course, PR OWN; Iand it consistently ranks as one of the largest shopping and reporting on shopping, it’s that Costco there are samples and plenty of them. retailers in the country. is no dollar store. Let me offer up my beloved Aunt It didn’t take much prodding for Hope to agree California is home to some 120 Costco stores, Hope as evidence. She’s a boomer, married, college to come with me to Costco in Torrance, Calif., on a

about one-third of the total in the U.S. and Puerto educated and reasonably well off, having put two recent Monday. I’d read that Costco was testing out BR RACHEL BY PHOTOS

BB1312-PG0X-UndercoverShopper.a;6.indd 22 12/3/13 3:15 PM 12032013151614 PHOTOS BY RACHEL BR OWN; PR ODUCTS BY GEOR GE CHINSEE BB1312-PG0X-UndercoverShopper.a;6.indd 23 which occupied about 500 to 600 square feet. The The about500to600square feet. which occupied double take. displays wereat Sephora, Iwouldn’thave done a large images oflovely, makeup-adorned faces.Ifthe immediately. wereshiny blackandwelllit,with They beautyI got there, Inoticedthenew displays nearby orsweater formyto lookforashirt boyfriend.When Idecidedtoheadtheapparelarea wrong Costco. perhaps thedisplays weregone orI’d gone tothe tohave displays, feelingthat Istarted thenagging seeing theminthebeauty aisle andnotlocating the beautywere onlygoing tobeinthenew displays, but, Beauty Ihadthoughtthose especiallyforCostco. Patiartist Dubroff werecreated that byHatch I knew Jenna frommanicurist products Hipp andmakeup customers. members assisting werenostaff There the organization oftheproducts. brands available, thebeauty categories coveredor didn’tseemtoberhyme orreasontothe There Neutrogena, Frédéric Fekkai, Dove,Olay andRoC. represented intheaislewereShiseido,Strivectin, priced from$118to$153.Otherbeauty brands ontheWeb, Later $109.99. Isaw thesameitem brands at good prices.SkinceuticalsCEFerulic was werefromrecognizable theproducts part, the most heard environmentalists theworldoverweeping.For insomuchpackagingIswore beauty products shelving—utilitarian orange towersstacked with aisle. Instead, therewasCostco’s customary aisle tofindmore. overtothebeauty we stroll andHopestore, suggested beauty discoveriesinthe aboutthepotential interest piquedmy definitely That before. seen theproduct Most Wanted.” Hope hadn’t with theslogan“Beauty’s stamped for$19.99 product that includedaLaLicious spotlighted merchandise encountering arowof sauntered in,immediately Hopestore, flashedhermembershipcardandwe dogs werethefoodofchoice.Atentrance tothe friends gettingwherethosehot foranevent together abouther and asoda—andHope told me astory signature hotdogs—itcharges $1.50forahotdog lot. Walking wesmelledCostco’s intothestore, Hope. We finallyfoundaspaceat the edge ofthe congested. “It’slot wasvery always that way,” muttered and affluent city. coastal Torrance, relatively closetoPalos Verdes, abeautiful and Iwaseager tocheckitout.We headedto Wanted Studioat two SouthernCalifornialocations beautynew areasunderthemoniker Beauty’s Most Two women dressedinblackmannedthedisplays, In oftherecognizablebrands, themidst therewere beauty new displaysThe weren’tinthebeauty We arrivedat midday. To my surprise,theparking of lovely faces. If displays the were at Sephora, I wouldn’t were atSephora,Iwouldn’t They were shiny black and wereand They shinyblack well-lit, with large images well-lit, withlarge images “I noticed the new beauty beauty new the “I noticed have done adoubletake.” done have displays immediately. products were predominantly encased in substantial werepredominantlyencasedinsubstantial products isCostco’sNormant As andStrivectin. wont,the Hipp, OrlandoPita,Jessica Wu, Shiseido,Serge werealsoitemsfromJenna around$50.There costs compared toUrban Decay’s Naked Palette, which me awidearray looksat anaffordable ofeye price shadow palette fromPati Dubroff, $17.99, wouldgive Iglancedaround,shepointedoutthat aneye As long she’d beenthere,andshesaidthreemonths. tips.Iasked oneofthesalesassociatesproduct how video screenscommunicating brand messages and and andtext onhandtotest, application, products wasatableandmirrorsfordemonstration and There anyonewomen werereadytoassist whoasked. out too much for the items. out toomuchfortheitems. aren’tshelling and aren’ttakingabigriskbecausethey offerings, brings them,arethrilledtoencounternew have Shecontendedthey faithinwhatproducts. Costco would bewillingtotake achanceonthebeauty shoppers asshedoes,Hope many speculated shoppers humming.KnowingCostco section thenew really get help andsheopineditwouldtake abitofeducation to familiar withmany ofthebrands probablydoesn’t that shoppersaren’t most fact here.The products back sooner than in seven yearstime. back soonerthaninseven probablybe unlike Galifianakis,onethat ensuresI’ll paper. toilet of Charmin In all,notabadhaul—and fashion,16barsofDovesoapanda30-pack Costco an array ofholiday merchandiseand, inproper Hipp andPati Dubroff, two sweaters, somebras, fromJenna$230, onitemsincludingproducts selling briskly. demonstrations daily, andI’m are toldtheproducts aredoingnumerousapplications and makeup artists, staff whichismadeupoftrained ofthestudios, seemtobe:The they Andproductive productive. aremost wherethey todetermine within thestores indifferent arebeingtested studios Ohio. The areas localeslated forColumbus, Studios, withthenext isgoingCostco toopenmoreBeauty’s Most Wanted little abouttheretailer’s plansforbeauty. Apparently, Ihave developers, brands gleaneda andproduct However,Costco. with throughinformaldiscussions nutshardertocrack thanclose-to-the-vest are few As a journalist on the retail andbeauty beats, ontheretail there ajournalist As I certainly did my part. In didmy part. I certainly total,Ispentabout 12032013151616

WWD in three varieties. in threevarieties. hadthecream for instance, Cream fromJenna Hipp, EssentialNailThe &Hand contained multipleitems. packaging that sometimes accustomed to buying beauty tobuyingbeauty accustomed club andshoppersaren’t that isawarehouse Costco butacknowledged curious, are She saidcustomers beautynew areawasgetting. associate onthereception I quizzed the sales I quizzedthesales BEAUTY INC 23

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$267.00* $85.00* TOTAL SPENT TOTAL SPENT

MONOÏ TIKI TAHITI VANILLA OIL, $11 Barone has never used this before, but PHYLIA DE M. CLEAN a sales associate SHAMPOO AND CONDITION sold her on it. CREAM RINSE, $35, $40 These are sulfate-free and good for Sugarman’s curly hair. COWSHED LIPPY COW NATURAL LIP BALM, $8 “This is super-moisturizing,” says Barone.

ANTONIA BURRELL LONDON NATURAL GLOW SOAPSMITH LAVENDER CLEANSING OIL, $68 HILL BODY LOTION, $20 Sugarman likes that this Barone bought this to treat will help prolong the her mother’s dry skin. effects of her weekly facials.

SOAPSMITH LAVENDER BY TERRY OR DE ROSE HILL BODY BUTTER MELT, $18 BAUME PRÉCIEUX, $59 Barone likes how the Sugarman bought lavender smell lingers the last tube of this now- through the night. discontinued shade.

AURELIA PROBIOTIC ILIA PURE MASCARA IN SKINCARE CELL REVITALISE NIGHTFALL, $28 DAY MOISTURISER, $65 “I like to put on a little “I’m very picky about my mascara when I work moisturizer,” says Sugarman. out,” says Barone. “And I SHOPPER STALKER “I was told this wouldn’t was told this won’t run.” weigh down my skin.” The Buy Side

JAYME CYK HEADS TO SHEN BEAUTY IN CARROLL GARDENS, BROOKLYN

SHOPPER: Molly Sugarman SHOPPER: Annette Barone DATE/TIME: 11.16.2013, 5:23 p.m. DATE/TIME: 11.16.2013, 3:45 p.m. STORE: Shen Beauty STORE: Shen Beauty LOCATION: 315 Court Street, LOCATION: 315 Court Street, Brooklyn, N.Y. Brooklyn, N.Y. What’s in Molly’s Bag? What’s in Annette’s Bag?

Molly Sugarman’s facialist and brow technician just started working at Shen On the hunt for a rich moisturizer for her mother, Annette Barone and her Beauty, and recommended that she come explore the niche beauty boutique, sister stopped into Shen Beauty to see what was new. “I’m a big product so the 35-year-old took time out of her Saturday to check out the hype. junkie,” says Barone. “I learned about beauty from my sister.” The trading “I go through these phases where I decide I’m going to make my life better,” broker says she spends $5,000 on beauty annually and is always looking for says Sugarman. “My goal when I came in was to buy a new facial regime.” innovation. When considering new products, she looks specifically for two Sugarman spends $2,000 a year on beauty products and looks to reader things: “I’m a big fan of rich, creamy products that are fragrance-free,” says reviews for insight on new brands and items. “It’s helpful to get a broad Barone. “I also love anything luxe.” When shopping, Barone doesn’t want to swath of people’s opinions,” she says. “Online, you have so many people that feel bombarded and prefers to go online when it comes to department stores. eventually you can find a reviewer who describes an experience that’s close “Shen Beauty is comfortable,” she says. “They’re here to help you. I like to enough to your own.” Working in advertising, Sugarman admits to being browse and I don’t want to be attacked.” When asked why she likes shopping drawn in by product marketing. “I definitely buy into whether it’s true or not for beauty Barone replied, “The whole looking pretty aspect. I turned 50 this

and if it’s going to make my life better,” she says. “Bravo marketers.” year, so it was rough for me.” DENG SONGQUAN BY BRIDGE CHINSEE; BROOKLYN GEORGE BY EICHNER; PRODUCTS STEVE BY SHOPPER PHOTOS *Pretax total.

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Recognizing Excellence in Luxury Service Jade Molina Macutay has provided outstanding MEET JADE MOLINA MACUTAY, service to Urban Decay for URBAN DECAY COUNTER MANAGER AT MACY’S three years. VALLEY FAIR, SAN JOSE, CA

WHAT INSPIRED YOU FOR THIS WORK? All the women that I work with love what they do. I found that passion and drive within myself.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE PART OF BEING A COUNTER MANAGER? Inspiring and coaching people. It’s about leading by example.

ANY ADVICE ON BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS WITH YOUR CLIENTS? Always connect with them and ask questions. If you really show that you care and that you want to teach them, they will always be loyal to you.

WHO WERE YOUR MENTORS? Cole Martin. She was my ﬁ rst Sales Executive.

WHAT’S THE BEST TIP YOU EVER GOT FROM HER? She told me to always enjoy the journey.

WHAT ARE YOUR CAREER ASPIRATIONS? I want to be a Sales Executive and go beyond.

DO YOU HAVE A CLIENT EXPERIENCE THAT WAS ESPECIALLY MEMORABLE? The day I met Claudia, she said she didn’t have time for a makeover. But because I made a connection with her she came back a few minutes later and I did her makeup. She loved it! I ended up doing her makeup for her wedding. Recently she told me that the day we met she was going through a rough time and my attention made her feel better.

WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR FAVORITE BEAUTY PRODUCTS? I’m a total Urban Decay junkie, so there are a few! I love our eye “Beauty is how you feel shadow primer; it’s the best. I love our glitters and our foundation. about yourself inside.” WHAT DOES YOUR BRAND MEAN TO YOU? We’re beauty with an edge. Urban Decay is always feminine, dangerous and fun.

WHAT IS BEAUTY? How you feel about yourself inside.

The L’Oréal Luxe Division is proud to partner with WWD Beauty Inc to recognize, each month, exceptional customer service in luxury beauty. THE WWD BEAUTY INC AWARDS Celebrating the people, products and places that made 2013 a standout year in beauty.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY WENDY PLOVMAND

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BB1312-PG0X-WELL-Awards.a;14.indd 27 12/3/13 2:13 PM 12032013141619 PRODUCT OF THE YEAR

MASS

Color Cosmetics COVER GIRL CLUMP CRUSHER BY LASHBLAST MASCARA After discovering that a majority of women swipe their lashes between 100 and 300 times to achieve their desired look, P&G set out to deliver a mascara to make the task easier. Cover Girl Clump Crusher by LashBlast Mascara—or the “great green machine,” as Esi Eggleston Bracey, vice president and general manager of Cover Girl, called it—features a uniquely curved brush designed to impart 200 percent more volume after 30 strokes. How does it work? P&G scientists measured the size of an average mascara clump as 325 microns, then spaced Clump Crusher’s bristles at 200 microns, ensuring that it would be too tight for clumping. “Clumps are stopped before they even start forming on the brush,” said Dr. Sarah Vickery, P&G beauty and grooming principal scientist. All that work paid off. P&G called Clump Crusher its “most successful” mascara launch in years, and retailers agreed. One mass bigwig described it as the fastest-selling item in store—in any category.

Skin Care L’ORÉAL PARIS AGE PERFECT GLOW RENEWAL FACIAL OIL L’Oréal Paris Age Perfect Glow Renewal Facial Oil slid past the cluttered alphabet cream landscape to be one of the ﬁrst to tap into the oil craze in mass-market stores. Launched quickly on the heels of prestige entries, this blend of eight essential oils capitalized on the positive feed- back on oils in the upmarket, building demand—and excitement—in food, drug and discount stores. L’Oréal touted the format’s multiple beneﬁts, including moisturizing, as a nighttime treatment, a pre-makeup primer and even a neck cream. Retailers also had the healthy glow of success, reporting that Age Perfect Glow Renewal Facial Oil and its companion Replenishing Cream, both priced at $24.99, provided healthy margins in the skin-care department.

Hair Care INFINITI PRO BY CONAIR CURL SECRET Conair’s newest curling device may be called Curl Secret, but there was nothing quiet about its launch. “We believe this is the biggest innovation in hair since [the corporation] introduced the pistol-grip hair dryer in 1960,” said Robin Linsley, Conair’s vice president of marketing. “This is a category that doesn’t yet exist.” Priced at $99.99, the tool curls hair without clamping or rolling, heats up in 30 seconds and features three style settings, for waves, curls and ringlets. There’s nothing loopy about consumer’s response to the device, though: Since its launch in August, Inﬁniti Pro by Conair Curl Secret has sold more than two million units. “For 100 years it’s been the same way to [curl hair],” said Vito Carlucci, director of engineering for Conair Corp. “This is truly a different method.”

Fragrance SONIA KASHUK BATH & BODY Sonia Kashuk, Target’s ﬁrst and longest-standing designer collaborator, has never been one to think small. The makeup artist, who entered the retail chain in 1999 with an exclusive cosmetics and accessories line, conquered new territory this year with bath and body. “What I set out to do 15 years ago was bring luxury to mass,” said Kashuk. “I didn’t want to be a one-hit wonder, I wanted to come back and do it again.” For the range, which includes oils, lotions, creams and body washes, Kashuk tapped perfumer Jerome Epinette of Robertet to create four scents and Buero New York to design the bold black packaging. Prices range from $4.99 for a loofah to $19.99 for an eau de toilette. To launch the line, Target erected a pop-up shop in the middle of Grand Central Station, complete with a bathing beauty and thousands of white bubble balloons. Rising to the top, indeed.

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PRESTIGE

Color Cosmetics GIORGIO ARMANI ROUGE ECSTASY CC LIPSTICK Giorgio Armani staged a one-of-a-kind fashion extravaganza in New York this fall, but that wasn’t the only area of the company making news. In beauty, Armani launched a first-to-market concept with Rouge Ecstasy, a 36-stockkeeping-unit lipstick line called the first “triple-c” lipstick—that is, color, comfort and care. The centerpiece of the technology is a proprietary ingredient called the Melting Cream Complex, which is said to deliver skin-care benefits along with high-impact color. “This new, innovative hybrid product marks the start of a new era in lipstick,” said Véronique Gautier, international general manager for Giorgio Armani Beauty. “It is a solid, melting lip balm with the color intensity of a lipstick, 12-hour hydration and reparative actions.” Also standout: bold red packaging from the master of minimalism and a first-ever digital campaign for the brand featuring beatbox sensation Felix Zenger. All the noise seemed to pay off: Launched in about 180 doors, Rouge Ecstasy was expected to ring up more than $5 million in sales in North America.

Skin Care IBUKI BY SHISEIDO Many marketers have spoken of luring Millennials to their counters, but this year Shiseido put its money where other’s mouths are with the launch of Ibuki. The ﬁrst completely new skin-care line from Shiseido in eight years, the 7-stockkeeping-unit Ibuki is designed for women 25 to 34 years old. The products were created to mitigate the effects of a typical twentysomething lifestyle, which often includes lack of sleep, oiliness, visible pores and rough skin resulting from less-than-optimal nutrition. “By 2017, Millennials will outspend Baby Boomers,” said Heidi Manheimer, chief executive officer of Shiseido Cosmetics America. “This line is designed as a jumping-off point for serious skin care. This is the time to capture their attention.” To that end, Shiseido focused its marketing efforts online, including an Ibuki microsite with product details, education and a rich social experience that allows users to read about the life experiences of like-minded people. Knowledge—and numbers—are indeed power.

Hair Care COLOR WOW ROOT COVER UP After selling John Frieda to Kao Corp. in 2002, Gail Federici traded hair care for the music business. But she soon found a beauty problem she couldn’t ignore: unsightly gray roots. To tackle grays, Federici got her proverbial band back together, reuniting with Frieda and chemist Joe Cincotta to create Color Wow Root Cover Up. “Every- where I went, people were showing their gray because nothing worked [to cover it in between dyes]. I thought if we could crack this problem we’d have another Frizz-Ease or beyond,” said Federici, who spent three years ﬁne-tuning the solid powder pigment before its introduction earlier this year at Ulta and on QVC. Root Cover Up, which is housed in a sleek compact, is part of the Color Wow line, which Federici and her team formulated to address problems common with color-treated hair. “We identify a problem that is pervasive and our objective is to ﬁx it,” said Federici. “I am analytical to a fault, which is why I think we have the success that we have.”

Fragrance MODERN MUSE BY ESTÉE LAUDER Fragrance is the historical backbone of the Estée Lauder brand, and for the launch of Modern Muse, the brand firmly put its stake in the ground. “This is the most important fragrance launch we’ve had in a decade,” said Jane Hertzmark Hudis, global president of Estée Lauder. “Modern Muse captures what it means today to be independent and confident in one’s own sense of self and style.” The importance of this launch was evident in the expectations that circulated through the market, with sources speculating that Lauder would invest about $50 million in promotional support, and was aiming for sales of $95 million globally in year one. Supermodel Arizona Muse starred as the face of the brand, and from the launch period on, her image was everywhere: in print ads, online and on television. Olfactively, the scent broke new ground for Lauder, with a sparkling jasmine note to impart a feminine side and wood accords to represent strength. Lauder’s confidence, it seems, was well placed, with retailers reporting a strong start amid predictions of ending the year in the top 10.

PRODUCTS PHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGE CHINSEE

BB1312-PG0X-WELL-Awards.a;14.indd 29 12/3/13 2:13 PM Mass BRAND NYX COSMETICS NYX Cosmetics is named for the Greek goddess of the OF THE YEAR night, but the brand is besting the competition in the light of day. Founded in Los Angeles by Toni Ko in 1999, NYX has registered an almost 50 percent average compound annual growth rate for the last four years, and it’s doing so as an indie upstart jockeying for space in a mass market ruled by giants. NYX’s success is due to its affordability (prices range from $6 to $9), an extensive range of more than 2,000 stockkeeping units and a warm embrace from the YouTube generation. Last year, NYX started the Fine Artistry of Cosmetic Elites (FACE) Awards, a competition spotlighting rising YouTubers, that garnered 27 million impressions. This year, impressions skyrocketed past 120 million. “The groundswell of awareness is building,” said Scott Friedman, chief executive officer of NYX. Standout launches in 2013 included the ergonomically shaped Curve eyeliner, matte lipstick in 21 shades and the multipurpose Wonder Pencil. “It’s about getting a high-end product, not at a cheap price, but at an attractive price,” said Friedman, a positioning that has carried NYX into thousands of doors— including 1,100 Target doors this year. Currently, about 25 percent of NYX’s sales are international, which Friedman predicts will rise to 50 percent in three years. NYX’s growth shows no signs of slowing. Declared Friedman, “We are on the way to becoming a $1 billion brand in six years.”

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Prestige CHANEL Chanel has spent 2013 moving from success to success, coming off a very strong 2012 with an estimated 10 percent growth in its fragrance and beauty business. Launches like Les Beiges in color and Le Lift in skin care were wildly popular, and the brand’s iconic fragrance business continued to soar. “Chanel has been amazing,” said Karen Grant, senior global industry analyst at the NPD Group. Chanel’s success was underlined by the March announcement that Christine Dagousset, executive vice president of Fragrance and Beauté for the company in the U.S., will succeed Andrea d’Avack as Chanel’s global Fragrance and Beauté president. In Janu- ary, Dagousset will move back to France to become global deputy general manager for Fragrance and Beauté, working with d’Avack in a transition phase. In 2015, she will be named global president, Fragrance and Beauté, with global strategic authority. One of Dagousset’s proudest moments from her time in the U.S.? “We managed to increase share of market while at the same time decreasing distribution,” she said—a true feat. Said Grant, “Dagousset is leaving on a high note.”

BB1312-PG0X-WELL-Awards.a;14.indd 31 12/3/13 2:13 PM CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY AWARD COTY INC. A tragedy in the life of a Coty executive has led to life for more than 36,000 people. When Mechtild Harf was diagnosed with blood cancer in 1990, her husband, Peter Harf, chairman and chief executive officer of Joh. A. Benckiser GmbH (which owned Coty Inc. before its 2013 IPO), and daughter, Katharina, were told that a bone-marrow transplant could save Mechtild’s life. With the odds of ﬁnding a match ranging from one in 20,000 to one in millions, having only 3,000 donors available in Germany at the time made the situation seem hopeless. With the help of family, friends and volunteers, Peter Harf worked tirelessly to recruit 68,000 bone- marrow donors in only one year. Sadly, a match was not found and Mechtild died in 1991. Immediately thereafter, Peter and Katha- rina, along with founding partner Coty, channeled their grief into founding Delete Blood Cancer DKMS, the world’s largest nonproﬁt bone-marrow transplant organization, which has been responsible for saving more than 36,000 lives via transplants. Coty sponsors a celebrity-heavy gala each year to raise funds for the organization, but the real stars are the more than 3.7 million potential donors the company has helped recruit through its dedication to the cause.

DIGITAL Mass DERMABLEND PROFESSIONAL During his keynote address at the 2012 WWD Beauty CEO Sum- INNOVATOR mit, L’Oréal’s Jean-Paul Agon showed a video of Zombie Boy Rick Genest, whose entire body is covered in tattoos save 12 inches of blank space, receiving a makeover compliments of Dermablend, completely eradicating any trace of markings on his body so that he could visit his grandmother. The audience was mesmerized—and so was the public, with the video racking up more than 22 million views on YouTube. This year, the brand upped the ante with an app, Uncover Zombie Boy. Free to download, the app uses 3-D technology to tap each tat and unveil the story behind it (plus what Dermablend product can be used to cover up the ink). To engage consumers and further the message of “Don’t judge a book by its cover,” the app also enables users to upload a picture of themselves to see what they would look like with Zombie Boy’s tattoos and enter a contest to win a trip to New York Fashion Week. Since its launch in August, the app is slated to hit 10,000 downloads by the end of the year, proving this is one idea that’s alive and kicking.

Prestige EM MICHELLE PHAN YouTube superstar Michelle Phan and L’Oréal USA’s Luxe division created a full-scale color cosmetics collection designed to live where the online makeup artist’s outsize persona lives—cyberspace. Less than three months after the August launch of EM, or “sister” in Vietnamese, more than 3.5 million unique visitors had ﬂocked to emcosmetics.com, home to more than 250 stockkeeping units. But the launch was no surprise to Phan’s 5 million YouTube subscribers, or “bunnies” as she calls to them. Phan included fans in nearly every detail of the line’s development, from the design to shade names. The products will live offline as well. Phan and L’Oréal have plans to open a 1,500-square-foot store in December, merging the online and offline worlds in one of the most original ways beauty has seen.

BB1312-PG0X-WELL-Awards.a;14.indd 32 12/3/13 2:13 PM E L Mass Y CAROLYN HOLBA Senior Vice President, Marketing, Maybelline New York- Garnier-Essie D Managing a billion-dollar beauty business that spans multiple categories is no easy task, but for Carolyn Holba, it’s all in a day’s work. Holba, who oversees marketing for Essie, Garnier and Maybelline New York, has taken a systematic approach, leveraging brand DNA as a means to expand. Take Maybelline, which before 2009 was viewed primarily as a mascara and eye brand (think Great Lash), and is now the biggest makeup line in the world. “In order to establish ourselves as a legitimate brand in color categories we needed to be a credible color authority,” said Holba, who began her revolution in 2009 with a Fashion Week sponsorship and bold advertising campaign. With the introduction of a blog, cross-device-compatible Web site and new items for eyes, lips and face, 2013 marked a year of even more expansion for Maybelline. “We want our consumers whenever and wherever to access information,” said Holba, whose sights are now set on elevating Garnier’s skin-care proposition and continued lip and eye innovation at Maybelline. She is on track with her plan: According to IRI, Maybelline, which now sponsors 14 fashion weeks worldwide, has increased its volume four percent and is up six percent in the general color-cosmetics category. Mission accomplished. MARKETER OF THE YEAR

Prestige VERONIQUE GABAI-PINSKY Global Brand President, Aramis and Designer Fragrances Veronique Gabai-Pinsky, the global brand president of Aramis and Design- er Fragrances at the Estée Lauder Cos., doesn’t think small. After being charged with reengineering the company’s fragrance model by chief executive officer Fabrizio Freda a few years ago, Gabai-Pinsky unveiled the considerable fruits of her labors in 2013, with a spate of global launches that symbolize the company’s new approach. First up was the superchic Marni, followed by expansion into the men’s category with Essenza by Er- menegildo Zegna, then the launch of a trio of megastar Michael Kors scents, complete with corresponding makeup and body items. Rounding out the year: a blockbuster Tory Burch scent, exclusive to Bloomingdale’s, which sold an estimated $50,000 on Day One. “The mantra was to make big bigger,” said Gabai-Pinsky of the new business model, “and maximize the potential of our winners.” Coupled with the mandate to improve productivity and proﬁtability, the resulting strategy is one where the quantity of launches has been replaced with quality and a decrease in the promotional activity that often drives the category. “In reality, nobody needs another red lipstick and nobody needs another fragrance,” Gabai-Pinsky said. “If you bring the most fabulous, enticing new fragrance, people will want it. We’re not in the business of answering needs. We’re in the business of creating wants.”

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DOVE REAL BEAUTY SKETCHES Dove has once again captivated consumers without showing a single product. Its Real Beauty Sketches campaign dramatically revealed that many women are their own harshest critic. In the film, Gil Zamora, an FBI-trained forensic artist, draws composite sketches of seven women based on their descriptions of themselves. He then creates sketches of the women based on descriptions from strangers who spent a short period of time with them. The women are each visibly moved when they see the two portraits Mass side by side—the ones based on the strangers’ descriptions are far more flattering. The campaign was an instant success. Less than FLOWER one month after its April launch, the film became the number-one Drew Barrymore’s Flower provided plenty of power viewed online video ad of all time, according to the Viral Video for Wal-Mart to elevate its beauty department. The Chart by Unruly. It has garnered more than 170 million views in luxe-looking Flower served as a centerpiece for a 110 different countries and more than four million shares. “Some new planogram that rolled out this year incorporat- people say, ‘What does this have to do with selling soap?’” Gina ing vibrant LED lighting and die-cut traffic-stopping Boswell, executive vice president of personal care, North America, displays for the color cosmetics collection of more for Unilever, said earlier this year. “But we have actionable insight. than 180 stockkeeping units. Originally in 1,500 In this case, it was that only 4 percent of adult women think they doors, Flower is now rolling out to more Wal-Mart are beautiful, which is deplorable. We also learned that this is a doors thanks to Barrymore’s hands-on approach. universal truth.” She continued, “A universal truth is the best basis (She touted the line from multiple magazine cover for any kind of brand campaign, and we were able to unlock that.” stories and even appears in tutorials.) “I don’t want to sit there and hope it works out. I want to be in the middle, in the mix, making sure it works out,” said the actress at the launch of the brand, which is being produced by Maesa. “It is almost an uncon- trollable desire to be one of the people who is creating. Maybe it is just a type of personality,” Barry- more continued. “I can’t sleep at night. I care.” Jody Pinson, vice president of merchandising at Wal- Mart, called Flower, whose prices range from $4.98 to $13.98, perfect for the retail giant’s “aspirational” shoppers. Shoppers seem to agree: According to industry sources, retail sales are expected to exceed $50 million. In other words, box-office gold. BARRYMORE PHOTO BY EVAN FALK EVAN BY PHOTO BARRYMORE

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Prestige ARDENCY INN When a brand adopts the tagline, “makeup to make you look badder,” you can be pretty sure that it’s not business as usual. With the launch of Ardency Inn, founders Gilles Kortzagadarian and Stephane Siboni delivered on that promise, producing a brand with a decidedly downtown ethos that translates hipster style into innovative formulas and product ideas. The line is divided into three main areas: the all-black Punker, which features inky liners, shadows and even a lip gloss pencil; Modster, where bright colors live, and the natural-toned Americana, whose star product is a Custom Color Concentrate that can be mixed with moisturizer to create a custom foundation. Prices for the line, which launched at Sephora, start at $22 for an eyeliner and rise to $39 for a silicone-free water-based primer. The link to music isn’t simply a marketing ploy for Ardency Inn, which taps musical artists like Marie de Villepin as brand ambas- sadors. “Every season we produce music videos. Our goal is to offer artists a recording studio,” said Siboni. “We see ourselves as a publisher of content.” Added Kortzagadarian, “In a sense we are more of a fashion brand in terms of how we communicate. Our goal with this brand was to combine our passion of makeup artistry and music.”

er e a - g re 0 rt h. er nt n ,” s - - y- y - 8 ” - d BARRYMORE PHOTO BY EVAN FALK EVAN BY PHOTO BARRYMORE

BB1312-PG0X-WELL-Awards.a;14.indd 35 12/3/13 2:13 PM $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT Mass L’ORÉAL PARIS ADVANCED LAUNCH HAIRCARE With the launch of Advanced Haircare, L’Oréal Paris set out to do far more than just cleanse and condition its custom- OF THE YEAR ers’ hair. Instead, the beauty behemoth set for itself the goal of changing consumer behavior and convincing them that a third C in the regimen—namely care—is an integral step in the quest for great hair. “The mass hair category has been fairly banal,” said Karen Fondu, president of L’Oréal Paris USA. “This is an opportunity to shift the paradigm.” To that end, the megabrand unleashed Advanced Haircare— a line five years in the making that was tested on 5,000 women and boasts more than 23 patents. Divided into Total Repair 5, Smooth Intense, Power Moisture, Color Vibrancy and Triple Resist, each of Advanced Haircare’s five sublines features a shampoo, conditioner and complementary treatment. With the help of a star-studded advertising campaign featuring L’Oréal spokeswomen like Jennifer Lopez and Lea Michele, Advanced Haircare was expected to generate a whopping $100 million in retail sales in its first year. The plan seemed to work, with the entire hair-care category posting sales gains after years of flat growth or declines. According to IRI, shampoo sales for the 52-week period ended May 19 in total U.S. multioutlets rose 2 percent to $2.6 billion and conditioner volume for the same period gained 6.2 percent to $1.8 billion. That’s called cleaning up.

BB1312-PG0X-WELL-Awards.a;14.indd 36 12/3/13 2:13 PM Prestige MARC JACOBS BEAUTY Marc Jacobs has never been about cookie-cutter style, so it stands to reason that his debut color cosmetics collection— notoriously hostile territory for a designer—was anything but ordinary. “I believe in individuality. What I think comes across as most stylish and modern is a kind of irreverence and a sort of self-conﬁdence,” he said at the launch. To that end, Marc Jacobs Beauty, a 122-stockkeeping-unit line created in conjunction with Sephora Originals and launched exclusively at the retailer in early August, is broken down into four categories: Smart Complexion, Hi-Per Color, Blackquer (Jacobs’ personal favorite) and Boy Tested, Girl Approved. Jacobs was highly involved in every aspect of development, from packaging to shade ranges to product names (Shame- less, a blush inspired by one of his tattoos, is a favorite—“To me, shameless is just an aspiration,” he quipped). The line may be irreverent, but it’s still serious business: Industry sources indicated sales could reach $15 million in the ﬁrst six months. Shortly after the launch, Jacobs announced he was leaving his post as designer of Louis Vuitton to focus on his signature collection and ready it for a future initial public offering. But don’t look for Jacobs to take a more standardized approach to this, or any other, business. “I like the idea of transforming oneself, making and modeling yourself to H what you feel like being,” he said. “I like the transformative qualities of fashion and fashion to me is not just clothing, it’s the whole ritual of making these choices that will tell the R world who you want to be that day.”

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Mass SHOPPERS DRUG MART Canada’s Shoppers Drug Mart, already the envy of U.S. mass retailers, upped the ante with this year’s debut of its BeautyBoutique prototype. In an ef- fort to give prestige brands a separate home, Shoppers Drug Mart, recently acquired by Loblaw Companies, carved out a store within a store stocked with brands like Urban Decay, Origins and Chanel. There are upgraded fix- tures, digital signage, interactive tablets, testing areas and trained beauty advisers for cross-brand consultations. Shoppers Drug Mart still operates Department Store six freestanding Murale stores, which served as laboratories for the new con- MACY’S HERALD SQUARE cept. However, consumers’ penchant for cross-shopping—research shows 40 percent of Canadian women buy both mass and prestige cosmetics—has the When the world’s largest store decides to transform its beauty floor, it doesn’t think small. In its first chain favoring the one-stop approach. To that end, mass brands are separated major overhaul since the late Seventies, Macy’s Herald Square completely revamped its beauty de- by a wall but easily accessible. While executives wouldn’t disclose numbers, partment with the aim of turning it into one of the world’s top-selling floors. Part of a $400 million officials did say they’ve racked up “double-digit growth” in beauty and an update of the department store, the 27,000-square-foot floor opened in November. While Macy’s increase in overall store sales since the opening of the new BeautyBoutique. executives declined to discuss figures, many executives expect growth rates of up to 20 percent. Newly added brands include Dolce & Gabbana makeup, La Mer and Hermès, while existing brands like Bobbi Brown and Dior have shiny new homes. Calculations based on industry estimates indicate that the revamped floor could generate more than $140 million in annual retail sales. Macy’s makeover garnered universal praise, including from one of the most authoritative experts. “Macy’s has created a unique standard for international cosmetics departments,” said Leonard A. Lauder, chairman emeritus of the Estée Lauder Cos. “It has set a high bar for all our stores to be able to aspire to.”

Specialty BARNEYS NEW YORK Since becoming chief executive officer of Barneys New York, Mark Lee has wasted little time in reimag- ining the retailer, upping the luxe quotient, emphasizing exclusivity and infusing the store with a sleek, contemporary vibe. This year, he and his team turned to the beauty floor, called The Foundation, with makeovers in the New York and Beverley Hills flagships. The results were as polished as the gleaming ter- razzo floors. The firm Steven Harris Architects created a modernist oasis of white with display cases re- sembling chic medicine cabinets. The New York floor was enlarged by 1,000 square feet, while in Beverly Hills, the department’s size almost doubled. Exclusive brands abound, including Frédéric Malle, Byredo and a makeup line from artist Troy Surratt. At the unveiling, Lee spoke of the importance of beauty, said to generate about 7 percent of Barneys’ overall business. “It’s not only the Foundation of our store, but it’s the foundation of our customer’s wardrobe,” he said. “It’s the foundation of giving you the fresh start every day, and the confidence. So it’s a huge complementary part of the total lifestyle.” MACY’S PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; BARNEYS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE THOMAS BY CHINSEE; BARNEYS GEORGE BY PHOTOS MACY’S OSCAR DE LA RENTA PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; RAG + BONE BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE + BONE BY GIANNONI; RAG GIOVANNI BY PHOTO DE LA RENTA OSCAR

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GUCCI WESTMAN Makeup artist Gucci Westman brings a halo of cool-girl chic to everything she touches. Her aesthetic seam- lessly takes on different forms—ultrahip, understated, polished, glamorous—in the many different mediums in which she works, be it runway shows, magazine editori- als, product development or with celebrities. Her versatility has been increasingly on view at Rev- lon, where she was named artistic director in 2008. Since her arrival, she’s had a clear vision for what she could offer: more color, more fun, more fashion and more mo- dernity. She has helped push Revlon’s advertising im- agery forward with a real-life quality that is also aspirational. For instance, in one campaign, the makeup artist not only allowed spokesmodel Emma Stone’s freckles to shine through, she added more using ColorStay eyeliner. Westman has been proliﬁc on the product-development side, too, creating seasonal collections and leaving her mark on the core collection. “The beauty of being able to do this is the collaboration,” she said. “People bring something out of you. It becomes a free ﬂow of ideas.” Westman works regularly with renowned photographers, including Annie Leibovitz, Peter Lindbergh and Mario Testino; her editorial work this year included a slew of covers, such as Katy Perry for Vogue and W and Claire Danes for British Vogue. For her magazine proj- ects, Westman enjoys delving into the narrative. “When you create a character, it’s not about a lip or an eye,” she said. “It’s about the whole picture. I love the epic shots.” Epic: The word could just as easily be applied to the career Westman has created for herself—and her impact MACY’S PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; BARNEYS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE THOMAS BY CHINSEE; BARNEYS GEORGE BY PHOTOS MACY’S OSCAR DE LA RENTA PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; RAG + BONE BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE + BONE BY GIANNONI; RAG GIOVANNI BY PHOTO DE LA RENTA OSCAR on beauty overall.

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FEARLESS, FORWARD LOOKING AND ONE OF THE MOST SUCCESSFUL BUSINESSMEN OF THE LAST CENTURY, LESLIE H. WEXNER CHANGED THE FACE OF AMERICAN RETAILING WITH ONE DECEPTIVELY SIMPLE IDEA THAT HE HAS NEVER VEERED FROM: THE CONSUMER KNOWS ALL.

BY PETE BORN PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANDREW SPEAR

THE MAN WHO STARTED IT ALL

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VISIONARY OF THE YEAR

hen Leslie H. Wexner opened the door of his first Limited shop in 1963, he touched off an American retail revolution that still reverberates. Wexner pioneered the art of replicating vertically sourced chains of specialty stores selling affordable fashion in an era when department stores dominated. In addition to the Limited, he populated the retail landscape with a mushrooming array of Wnameplates, including Express, Lane Bryant, Lerner New York and Abercrombie & Fitch. As the appeal of the apparel business began to wane, Wexner turned to the magnetic attraction of lingerie with Victoria’s Secret. Finally, in 1990, he stepped into the personal care and beauty ring, with Victoria’s Secret Beauty and Bath & Body Works. At age 76, Wexner, founder, chairman and chief executive officer of L Brands Inc., has been at the helm for half a century and counting, and he has opened nearly 10,000 stores. Company sales topped $10.4 billion last year. when it comes to establishing a supply chain. His basic “It would be hard to find someone in the retail industry as smart or smarter than Les principles have never changed as he has moved from one Wexner,” asserted Leonard A. Lauder, chairman emeritus of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., who kind of business to another, but the strategies to bring those developed a warm relationship with Wexner although the two titans never found common beliefs to life have evolved, such as “patterning,” or analyzing ground for a business partnership. the existing business for new product opportunities. Another Wexner is singled out by people in the market for his unshakable grasp of what drives a prized skill is the agility needed to get to market quickly. successful retail business and how to set up an enterprise that will sustain itself, particularly While some critics say he is much more of a merchant than a marketer—he described himself as a shopkeeper at the WWD Beauty CEO Summit in 2006—he is second to none when it comes to keeping a close eye on changing customer whims. Another friend, Dario Ferrari, founder and president of Intercos, attributed at least part of Wexner’s success to his penetrating sense of intuition—“to try to understand what the consumer wants, to anticipate the trend. When he sees a concept, he sees it already transformed [into a product] in the store. Already he can tell you how much money it can make. He’s able to know if it’s worthwhile or not. It’s never gray.” What drives this is a voracious personal interest in the world around him. “He is endlessly curious and that is what keeps him young,” said one observer. “It keeps him engaged, it keeps him ahead of anyone else. It allows him to reinvent business models in both content and execution.” Wexner’s competitive instinct has taken him a long way, with a net worth estimated at $5.7 billion by Forbes magazine. He also has been a strong proponent of philanthropy, with his first ground-breaking $1 million donation to the United Way, a $100 million gift to his alma mater, Ohio State University, and the creation of the Wexner Center for the Arts. This same man, however, can be so private about his business affairs that he almost seems secretive. But, boy, can he loosen up, blithely igniting controversy, as when he recently suggested that department stores are “irrelevant” and a brand like Coach “cut its own throat by growing its outlet channel.” These barbed moments stand in sharp contrast to what some acquaintances say has been his biggest personality evolution: a sense of mellowness brought on by being the father of four THE MAN children, the oldest of whom has entered college. Indeed, while passing time during a photo WHO shoot for this article, Wexner asked a bystander to type “What Does the Fox Say” into the STARTED IT ALL

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search engine of her phone. Wexner then had her play the stores, didn’t necessarily have to be. nonsensical dance song by Norwegian comedy duo Ylvis, When I met Fukuhara and OJ, they explained to me how the channel was in the U.S., but in Europe, as he cajoled and teased passing fellow employees for not it was different. There were specialty stores, perfumeries, if you will. I said, “That’s kind of interesting.” knowing about the viral sensation, which drew 230 million They weren’t interested in selling any of their branded product to compete with the department stores views on YouTube within two and a half months this fall. He, because that would have been disaster. of course, had learned about it at home. Clearly delighted, So I thought, well, we know how to run stores. We know how to do the real estate, we know how to the king of Columbus asked to hear the song again. design stores, we know how to buy stuff, control inventories, train people at retail. I began to speculate, could you take the skills we have in product, which was apparel, and take all the other skills, base of Congratulations on being named the winner of the supply, marketing, merchandise, branding, and could you do it in beauty? WWD Beauty Inc Visionary Award. Last year’s In the course of—I wasn’t spying, I really wasn’t—but in the course of meeting all these people in winner was Yoshiharu Fukuhara of Shiseido, the year the beauty industry, they started telling me about efficacy and formulas and you don’t want to blind before that was Lindsay Owen-Jones of L’Oréal and people or burn their skin. You know, as a fashion merchant, I never thought I was going to hurt the year before that was Leonard Lauder. or injure anybody. [Laughter] It was kind of daunting. Sweaters will never be life-threatening, no It’s interesting because when I was getting into the beauty matter how loose or tight. business, I began talking to Lindsay Owen-Jones. I hadn’t The idea of bottles and caps and labels and fragrance houses, all that stuff was pretty alien. But I knew met him, I just cold-called him because L’Oréal was so about sweaters, and I didn’t know dink about knitting machines either, so I thought that the basic retail significant. I called Leonard Lauder, who I didn’t know, and skills and being customer-centric, that stuff that a shopkeeper is, it would be worth a try. said I had this idea about a specialty-store beauty business. The first bits of product we tried, we put on a few shelves in an Express store just to see what would And I wrote a letter and met Fukuhara. I also talked with happen. We put it in six or eight stores and people bought it. People say, “When you opened your first whoever was running Revlon at the time, who kind of store, did you plan a hundred?” And it’s like, no, I just hoped I didn’t go out of business. When we got dismissed me. But OJ, Leonard and Fukuhara were all kind into the beauty business it was pretty much the same thing. There was no grand plan. of interested. And none of them—and this is at the beginning of the beginning—were interested enough to do anything. No grand vision? They saw their channels through department stores and No. I was a little bit influenced by Fred Segal in L.A. They had a little beauty department and I always supermarkets. They were curious that I was thinking about noticed it when we’d go out there and sample shop and look for fashion trends. [I thought] if they sell it, but not curious enough to do anything. beauty, I can sell beauty. They did it on a few shelves, we’ll try it on a few shelves and see what happens. Leonard was probably the most favorably disposed. I think It’s like, geez, it worked. [Laughter] People liked it. Maybe we could open up a store and see what he was intrigued to do something, to pursue it. We got down happened. We started with Express and it worked. And then we tried with Victoria’s Secret, which we to real discussions and then one day I was in New York and I were just starting. called him up for a cup of coffee. I thought we were dating. [Laughter] He said his mother How has the customer changed over the years, both on the said that they never had any partners and they I get all my fashion and the beauty side? It seems like you’ve changed didn’t want to have one now. along with them. inspiration from People have different preferences. Fashion is an interesting busi- What gave you the idea of going into customers. ness because we’re pack animals, but we don’t all want to look beauty? alike or smell alike or be alike. We always want to express our indi- By nature I’m curious, and everybody knows Just watching viduality, whether it’s in jeans or sweaters or beauty and cosmetics that the world is going to change. We pioneered customers, products. That’s just the human state. The question is, how do multistore fashion retailing at a national level. they express it? Do they express it in clothing or in which smart- I got to thinking, how will the world change? I think I can phone they have or the cover that’s on their smartphone? That’s I saw a lot of people were opening multiple see and sense been a constant and probably always will be. stores—popular-price fashion businesses in The technology, whether it’s travel or communication Europe, in the U.S., jean shops, apparel shops, what they’re technologies, the world has just gotten faster. The customer is the Benetton and knitwear or whatever. There interested in same, but they’re bombarded with so much information that they must have been 20 different people. evolve quicker. Maybe 10 years ago the status-y thing was to have a I was also seeing that apparel was deflating. and then bring Blackberry and then five years later it wasn’t. You could buy a pair of jeans 25 years ago for that back Ideas go through society really quickly. Tom Friedman expressed $25 and you can buy a pair of jeans today for it as the world being flat. So if you shop stores in Moscow, China, $25. There are very few things in the world to the store. Columbus, Madrid, they’re all the same. The shopkeepers and the where you’ve actually seen deflation. customers are about the same speed. I began thinking that fashion apparel wasn’t going to It’s happening in all products. This summer, I had a cup of coffee with Piero Ferrari. We were in be as important in the future as it had been in the past, in Capri and somebody introduced me to him. He was saying that historically their big market was Italy, terms of defining peoples’ personalities, and I didn’t foresee the West Coast of the United States and Germany. Now they sell as many cars in China as they do in electronics defining personalities, or eyewear accessories. America and Germany and everybody wants the same stuff at the same time. Ten years ago, it wasn’t In parallel, I believed that specialists and specialty retailing that way. The half-life of ideas gets shorter. was really an interesting channel of distribution. There were bookstores and toy stores, businesses that had been Have you ever thought about doing multibranded beauty stores again, like Sephora? carved out of the traditional department store business. Just We always think about different businesses, because I just do. But right now, the growth that we have in walking through department stores, it occurred to me that the existing businesses and that growth coming domestically in North America, let alone the rest of the the channel of distribution, which was through department world, has us pretty busy. There was a time when it was challenging even to be in the contiguous 48 states. PHOTO BY ERIC W E ISS BY PHOTO

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Now being in business in North America is and when our businesses were really challenging, but less challenging than having thriving, I made the decision that said a national business was 25 years ago. you could ride a style till the bitter end or if you had to make a choice, maybe You once said that you felt that retail you’d get out early. Somebody said, formats really couldn’t travel. It’s “You know we could’ve sold this for hard to transplant an American retail another six months,” and I’d say, “Well, store to Europe. But now you’ve got I’d rather fall forward, get out of things this experiment in Bond Street with early,” and it forces me to the next. Victoria’s Secret. What changed? Thinking about the lingerie business I was just looking at numbers. We have and the beauty business—was there a great admiration, say, for Inditex, but about next and could we transfer our skills a third of their stores are in Spain and Por- to a different kind of merchandise and tugal. The bulk of their stores are in West- test it and see if it works? And it has, ern Europe and Eastern Europe. So West- shockingly so, in beauty. ern Europe and Eastern Europe are about the same complexity as the United States Why do you think that is? from Moscow to Madrid or Miami to Se- It comes from just basically a shopkeeper attle. You look at the map and you overlay point of view. There are good fashion Europe and the United States [in terms of] merchants in beauty and otherwise that complexity, climates. believe it comes from technology or H&M is pretty much the same. They do wizards and witches in Paris that do this. very well in northern Europe—Sweden, I get all my inspiration from customers. Norway, Denmark, Germany, Austria, Po- Just watching customers, I think I can land. That’s just the orientation of their see and sense what they’re interested in business. They are much less successful in and then bring that back to the store. the United States... You’re known as a great ideas But they’re here. guy. Everybody preaches creative They’re here. And they’re figuring it out. But, Leslie H. Wexner with Jacqueline Onassis in 1991 at a Municipal Arts Society destruction and nobody does it Inditex, I think, came to the U.S. in ’88 or benefit at the Henri Bendel flagship in New York City. except you. You’ve gone from your ’89 and then stopped and went to Mexico own ready-to-wear to beauty to because it was easier. There’s no pattern of European specialty stores coming to the United States and lingerie without looking back. Where do you get your setting the world on fire. Americans understand more about soccer today than they did 20 years ago. But ideas from and what inspires you? fantasy soccer isn’t going to replace the NFL and college and high school football. And the NFL plays a If you accept the fact that the world is going to change and few exhibition games or regular-season games in Europe but I don’t think it’s taking Europe by storm. you accept the fact that it isn’t just the world, it’s your world, I just think packaged goods, real packaged goods, cameras, cars, certain beverages, whether it’s beer and that much or perhaps everything you know will be or soft drinks, there are certain things that are standard and they’ve proven that those things sell around obsoleted at some point, then I think that feeds curiosity and the world. I think fine fragrance might be that. I think great business people are curious. Walt Disney was curious, Steven Spielberg is curious, Steve Jobs was curious. If you were going to start The Limited today, would it be a lot harder? Everybody is in love He said, “All this stuff that I’m seeing around me isn’t very with the omni-customer now. Would it have to be on the Web? good, what would the customer like?” The apparel businesses are tougher because everybody is in the same base of supply in terms of value, Sam Walton was curious in that way, whether it’s looking cost, the same raw materials. Everybody wants to make stuff in the same place. at other channels or how to redefine product or how to apply When we started with our Limited stores, we could go to Italy and make things and they were unique your skills. Sam Walton spent most of his formative years in because nobody else went to Italy making fashion goods. Then we went to Asia and started making a family dime store and he thought that they were obsolete. fashion goods and five or seven years later people started making fashion goods. We had an edge That’s how he earned his living, so he said, “Maybe I could because we knew the customer through our stores and we had a cost advantage because we could do take these skills and translate them to a different scale of some pioneering. business.” I met him when he had eight or 10 stores. He But everybody is making it and the apparel looks the way it looks today because everybody’s making didn’t think he had a national business, he thought he had the same stuff in the same places. There’s no cost advantage. You’ve also had the deflation in apparel. a regional business that was set for smaller cities and he was Forty years ago you had a couture business. It doesn’t exist and the designer business is really a bridge scared to death of going to Little Rock. business. [There has been] enormous compression in apparel. Everybody wants to make things in the Part of it is curiosity, accepting the fact that your world is same place, from the same fabrics. You have a compression from the retail but also cost. I don’t think it’s going to change and [asking] are your skills adaptable and do as interesting. I have one son in college and three kids in high school and they are more concerned about you have a customer sense? Some people think it’s intuition what electronic device they have to express their personality than what clothes they wear. They are much and that’s part of it, [but] part of it is structuring curiosity, more sensitive to whose athletic footwear they have and whose jeans they wear. watching people and saying, “Hmm, that’s interesting.” The people who I’ve mentioned, and some of them I knew So the question about whether you regret leaving ready-to-wear is sort of a dumb question. and some of ’em I’ve read about, could make observations No, it’s not a dumb question. I just think as a buyer, when I was the apparel buyer in the business about customers that were insightful into the future. PHOTO BY ERIC W E ISS BY PHOTO

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You are a voracious reader, always quoting people. just don’t frighten him, he doesn’t see it Harry Truman said all leaders are readers and not all readers are that way.” I used to say about my mom that leaders. Readers read history and biography to get an insight into if fear was a color, she was color blind. She human behavior and an understanding of how people think. I was afraid of nothing. deliberately decided 40 years ago not to read fiction because I There’s a balance. In business we have thought reality was much more interesting. existed successfully for 50 years. Somebody I read history from a biographical point of view and biographies who invested a thousand dollars in our from a biographic—how did people think, what was going on business when we went public would be and how did people deal with these issues, whatever they are. worth close to $40 million dollars today. We One of the first books I read about retailing was a history of don’t talk about that very often. I think I’ve Marshall Field. Give the lady what she wants and be curious been in business 50 years, so 200 quarters about going to base of supply. I thought, gee, that makes sense. of profitability. Sam Walton went to base of supply, Inditex went to base of I’m not afraid of or daunted by change. supply, H&M goes to base of supply, Leonard Lauder went to But I have a really good risk calculator. I base of supply. It’s like, yeah, people do that. don’t bet the ranch. Somebody said to me I don’t know—I might have thought it anyway, but when I after the first store was open and I was read it, I said, “What does this mean to me?” A fashion business thinking about the second, “Don’t screw up is essentially, you’re creating merchandise that has emotional because you don’t wanna go back to square content. And I think emotional content probably means one.” I’ve never lost sight of that. something you don’t have. Your eleven-thousandth McDonald’s I’m challenged by change but in a positive cheeseburger is more sustenance but you see it today with way. I figure I can do this, we can do this, I Chipotle and Flip Side and Shake Shack, people redefining can figure it out. businesses, whether it’s Whole Foods redefining the supermarket I look back, after being in business 50 or Costco redefining the supermarket or Wal-Mart. years, and say I’ve either been extraordi- Again, it’s a customer consciousness. People who anticipate narily lucky or I have a very good risk cal- change, whether it’s political or the stuff that we do, never get culator. I understand the value of money, there with market research. The analytics is not going to predict I understand the responsibilities to asso- the weather a year from today. Right now the sun is shining. I ciates and stakeholders, whether they’re can guess in 10 minutes the sun is still going to be shining. A manufacturers or landlords and people in year from now, it’ll be something else. I respect people who are the business. And I take it seriously. meteorologists and do long-range weather forecasting but I just From the top: Wexner with his parents, presenting want to pay attention [to the customer]. expansion plans, and on the field with the marching band at As you look back on the last 50 years, an Ohio State University football game in 2011. what are you the most proud of ? When you talk to young people, what do you tell them? I made a decision, probably when the What skills do they need? Do you have any rules to give them? business was about 10 years old, that I wanted to find a The way I explain it is, people say you have to innovate or you have to be creative. And I’m saying yeah, balance between big and good. I always wanted to build a you do. Some people have the ability to innovate, some people are inherently creative. Like some people good business, good people, do good things. It’s evolved now probably genetically are athletic, but you still have to have a sport or a coach and you have to work at it. to purpose. If it’s just size, then you might end up like Ali So if you were born with fast twitch nerves you might have the aptitude to be an athlete, but if no one Baba or somebody. There are people who build very large ever coached you, you might just be a bookworm with fast twitch nerves. businesses that if you measure financially are enormously The fundamental part of it is really curiosity and cultivating in yourself the practice of curiosity. successful but they don’t live their lives in the culture of Curiosity isn’t a state of mind. It’s an active thing, whether it’s going out and seeing places, traveling, their enterprises and balanced. It’s really neat that in the watching things. last 25 years or so, associates in the business have donated In the last 20 to 25 years, I get great inspiration from watching TV, popular TV, watching the language maybe a million hours of volunteer time to whatever they are and what’s in and what’s out. You watch a program like Two Broke Girls and go wow, that’s on prime interested in. I think that’s good. time, 8:00 on Monday, on CBS. If that’s in bounds what does that tell me about other attitudes? I mean, Two Broke Girls compared to Friends—Friends almost looks Biblical. You’ve always been big on giving back. Yes, and encouraging people. That part of my definition of You also have this ability to leave things behind, no matter how inured you were in it, and success is that you have to give something of yourself, so it’s just to move on to the next thing. Do you find this at all difficult at times? time, and treasure and really encourage people at every level It’s not that I’m not sentimental. I live so much in the future that thinking back—I think some people to think about their responsibilities, whether it’s to family are lucky because they can be more reflective about a lot of things and they reminisce. I am much more or neighbors or an alma mater, whatever they’re interested comfortable in tomorrow than I am [in] today, let alone the past. The future is always more interesting in. Somebody said to me, “When you retire, you’ll be able to to me personally than the past. From a historical point of view, I look at the past for patterns, a little bit do all this good stuff”—maybe I was 35 years old. I thought, in myself but mostly to understand how other people negotiated from past to future. what if you get hit by a truck? Why would you wait to feel good about yourself? The other side of the coin is people don’t do this not only because they don’t want to give up That notion of being purposed and in a business that really what they have but they’re terrified of the future. So I assume the terror is missing in this finds purpose—I have an argument with these people who equation? sign these giving pledges, when somebody will get all their [Someone was talking to my wife, Abigail,] and she said, “You have to understand that change and scale money. What about all your brainpower? Why didn’t you

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help society for all those years and help solve problems [by] I admire John D. Rockefeller. The modern American medical school changed how medicine was taught even just thinking about them, let alone giving resources? globally and the quality of medicine, the idea of a standardized curriculum, that’s pretty imaginative. And [they] say, “Well it is generous if you give to somebody The idea that in the middle of the country there should be an Ivy League school. He volunteered to give rather than just your children or your dog or something.” that to his hometown in Cleveland and they didn’t want one. He was positive it was a good idea so he If leaders, whether they’re leaders of family, educational started the University of Chicago. That was a big idea. institutions, businesses, if everybody were serious about Or Carnegie saying people ought to be healthy mentally and physically, so we’ll build libraries and working to make their world a better place, whether it was swimming pools in every community that’ll maintain them. The swimming pools weren’t a great idea their neighborhood, their church, their synagogue, alma but the library is a pretty damn big idea. I read that and said, “This is really interesting. These guys really mater, neighborhood, hospital, schools, what a great thing thought about this stuff and they thought about it as young men.” that would be. In your integrated approach to life, do you ever think about retirement or is it not necessary? Is that how you would like to be remembered? At some point if you can’t do what you do, then you say, “OK, I’m going to hang it up.” But it’s like pro I asked myself that question when I was in my late 30s, what football players—Tom Brady is 36 and maybe he’ll be a great pro quarterback till he’s 40. When he can’t will they say about me when I’m gone? And I said, “Who be a quarterback anymore is the time to quit. cares? What do you say about yourself in the here and now?” I choose to think about age in centigrade rather than Fahrenheit. Some people are very old when they’re 40. I think curiosity and optimism are youthful attitudes. I can’t wait till I’m a hundred so I can What do you think defines a successful life? look back. If you’re fortunate and your head works and you’re healthy and you like what you’re doing, I put it in three buckets—yourself, just keep on doing it. friends and family, and then society. People are entitled to have personal, I am much more As long as you think young, you’ll act young. selfish motives, whether it’s promotions, I think so. rank, if you make money you can comfortable in [have] more stuff. The second bucket tomorrow than I You have four kids. How has fatherhood affected you? is how do you think about friends and Abigail and the children give me a sense of responsibility. family? And then how do you think am [in] today, let When you’re a bachelor and you do the kind of stuff that about societal responsibilities. Some alone the past. The I was doing, whether you had success in business or people address it by running for public community responsibility, and you go home you’re talking office, some by being on committees, future is always more to the refrigerator. volunteering time. I’ve decided to tithe interesting to me I can remember right after Harry was born, I kept in time and money. [That’s] very hard thinking, boy, I really have to wear my seat belt and don’t when you’re growing a business and personally than the screw up because I don’t want to embarrass my wife or you’re 35 years old and you’re working past. From a historical my children. an 80-hour week, to give 10 percent of It fulfills you in obvious ways but also it’s kind of nice your time. point of view, I that the kids feel good about you. You know? “Dad that I asked Art Coleman, a business look at the past for was really a good job.” It isn’t how many bottles of Sweet professor and a good friend, and he Pea we sold in Bath & Body, but that I feel good about said, “Everywhere you go, your head patterns, a little bit in myself because of Ohio State, because of Columbus goes with you so people can give you myself but mostly to Community. work to do while you’re traveling, you can make phone calls, you can write understand how other You’ve had these tremendous successes, going from letters, you can do something. Just people negotiated one world to another, but there’ve been some bumps because you’re traveling doesn’t mean in the road, like the launch of Aura Science. Do you that you can’t do anything.” from past to future. learn from things like that? I’ve tried to be thoughtful about how We all learn more from those bumps in the road than the I balance my personal life, my business and my community easy successes because you pause and say, “This seemed like a good idea at the time and it didn’t work life. I never get it right but you know, [I] work at it. It’s a out. What was it?” project. That particular one, Shiseido, a wonderful organization, Fukuhara, his guys were just very cooperative, Every summer I think about what did I do and what am I but instead of beginning with a merchandised marketing plan we began with technology. Shiseido has going to do and what the priorities are to make sure that I’m wonderful skin technology, they’re really good people, so let’s start with the technology and then we’ll trying to be balanced. I think what you’re remembered by is invent a brand. In hindsight, I think you want to begin with a position and then say, “This is what it that you try to get your things in balance. ought to be.” It was kind of seductive and fun to go to Tokyo and work with them. But when I took it apart, I said, “We began at the wrong end of the pipe, at least for us.” Are you satisfied? Do you think you’ve been able to do So I said, “OK, don’t do that again.” it to the best of your ability? Pretty good, pretty good. In thinking about what is success, How do you define leadership? I’ve read a lot. When I was in my mid-30s, I wondered what Leadership has a lot to do with change: changing organizations, changing things to a different place people who made a lot of money, what did they do? I didn’t and then being successful. Leaders typically take their organizations, their governments, wherever, to a know any. [Laughter] I read about Andrew Carnegie and place they would have otherwise not gone. And they take them there successfully. Part of leadership is Andrew Mellon and John D. Rockefeller and others and recognizing the need for change and then having the courage to try to get followers, to lead people to a said, “Wait, Rockefeller, he really put his mind into things.” place they would not have otherwise been. ■

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TOP TABLE A Classic Reimagined

hiseido’s L’Osier restaurant, country can claim more Michelin special on the side.” One dish from a highly praised 40-year-old three-star restaurants than France. the current menu features two establishment, is moving into What’s more, over its four decades rectangular slabs of pan-fried beef a new era under the tutelage of existence, L’Osier has cultivated a with a red wine sauce and a selection of a young chef. loyal client base of well-heeled ladies of spinach leaves, one topped with SOlivier Chaignon, a 34-year- who lunch and business people flush a mixture of preserved onions and old hailing from Montargis in the with generous expense accounts parsley chlorophyll and another with a Loiret region of France, has taken (lunch menus start at about $100 combination of red cabbage puree and over L’Osier’s kitchen from Bruno and a deluxe tasting menu for dinner pomegranate syrup. A bone-marrow Menard as the eatery reopens its runs as high as $385). The restaurant, mousse with a few crispy spiral potato doors after a two-and-a-half-year which seats 36 people in the main chips accompanies the plate. hiatus from Tokyo’s fine-dining scene. dining area and another 10 in a Having worked in Tokyo since The restaurant closed in April 2011 private salon, is almost completely 2005, Chaignon has had plenty of after snagging three Michelin stars booked through the end of January. time to develop an appreciation for three consecutive years. Shiseido But Chaignon, who most recently for Japanese cuisine firsthand but subsequently redeveloped the site, worked as executive chef at Pierre he is also quick to point out that reopening it in late October as part Gagnaire at ANA InterContinental Japanese cooking—particularly its of its new multipurpose building in Tokyo, appears to be taking his small, artful and delicate portions— Ginza. Architect Pierre-Yves Rochon responsibilities in stride. “I’m feeling Star Catcher: Chef Olivier Chaignon is taking has had a broader influence on the the reins at Shiseido’s L’Osier restaurant. gave the dining room a complete face well,” he quips a few days before French culinary scene. “Really, the lift, creating an airy, circular space L’Osier’s official opening. Chaignon truffles from Alba as part of a recent Japanese [traditionally have been] featuring a massive gold-accented has already hooked at least one fan— meal. “All five of my senses were making dishes that are very refined, chandelier and yellow furnishings. and a rather important one. Shiseido totally satisfied,” the executive said. well presented. French cuisine was It’s clear that Chaignon is under chairman, president and chief The soft-spoken chef’s chief mission about hearty food,” he says. “Now in considerable pressure—Japan’s executive Shinzo Maeda sampled the is to keep his diners satiated with France, we’re borrowing a bit from culinary landscape is highly chef’s Parmesan risotto topped with his Japanese-influenced take on the Japanese way.”

scrutinized, especially now that the a scallop mousse and slices of white classic French fare with “something —AMANDA KAISER YUKIE MIYAZAKI BY PHOTOS

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