AN ISSUE OF WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY VISIONARY OF THE YEAR THE SHOPKEEPER How Leslie H. Wexner Reinvented Beauty Retailing WWD Beauty Inc 2013 AWARDS BB1312-PG0X-Cover.a;6.indd 1 12/3/13 3:31 PM $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT THE BUTTERFLY EFFECT INCREDIBLY FANNED OUT VOLUME R E N R O C O T R E N R O C S E H C A E R – N IG S E D IC R T E M M Y S A NEW “THE BUTTERFLY LOOK IS MY ULTIMATE MUST-HAVE.” Bianca Balti REVOLUTIONARY WING-TIP BRUSH INSTANTLY VOLUMIZES FROM THE ROOTS AND STRETCHES LASHES TOWARD THE OUTER CORNER. EXPLORE ALL THE LOOKS AT BUTTERFLYMASCARA.COM ©2013 L’Oréal USA, Inc. Simulation of actual product results. Lashes styled with Voluminous ButterflyTM Mascara. Lash inserts were used to fill in natural gaps. THE BUTTERFLY EFFECT INCREDIBLY FANNED OUT VOLUME R E N R O C O T R E N R O C S E H C A E R – N IG S E D IC R T E M M Y S A NEW “THE BUTTERFLY LOOK IS MY ULTIMATE MUST-HAVE.” Bianca Balti REVOLUTIONARY WING-TIP BRUSH INSTANTLY VOLUMIZES FROM THE ROOTS AND STRETCHES LASHES TOWARD THE OUTER CORNER. EXPLORE ALL THE LOOKS AT BUTTERFLYMASCARA.COM ©2013 L’Oréal USA, Inc. Simulation of actual product results. Lashes styled with Voluminous ButterflyTM Mascara. Lash inserts were used to fill in natural gaps. ª true glowª curl secret SONIC SKINCARE SOLUTION REVOLUTIONARY SHINY CURLS 300 oscillations per second for professional facial cleansing action! 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Hair goes in & the perfect curl comes out — every time! tSFEVDUJPOJOPJM tQSPGFTTJPOBMCSVTIMFTTNPUPS tSFEVDUJPOJOUIF tUPVSNBMJOFDFSBNJD BQQFBSBODFPGSFEOFTT tIFBUMFWFMTUJNFSTFUUJOHT tWJTJCMFJNQSPWFNFOU JOQPSFTJ[F $MBJNTCBTFEPOJOEFQFOEFOUDMJOJDBM UFTUJOHBOEDPOTVNFSTVSWFZT true secret of beauty REVEALING SKIN & HAIR INNOVATION www.trueglowbyconair.com www.curlsecret.com 8 WWD BEAUTY INC FEATURES 26 The WWD Beauty Inc Awards Our annual editor’s choice business-to-business awards honoring the beauty industry’s brightest people, places, products and ideas from 2013. 40 The Man Who Started It All Leslie H. Wexner, the founder, chairman and chief executive officer of L Brands Inc. and recipient of the 2013 WWD Beauty Inc Visionary Award, revolutionized the American retail scene by keeping an unwavering eye trained on consumers. DEPARTMENTS BEAUTY BULLETIN 14 Blushing Beauty Pink blooms for Spring. 16 Shelf Life Key products hitting stores now. CORNER OFFICE 18 Life at the Top Since assuming the head position at La Prairie, Patrick Rasquinet has led the luxe brand to meteoric growth. 21 My First Job Why the lessons Elana Drell Szyfer learned as a sales associate at a men’s store in New Jersey helped form who she is today. 21 Black Book Star stylist Serge Normant shares his New York City indulgences. CONSUMER CHRONICLES 22 The Big and the Beautiful WWD’s Rachel Brown assesses Costco’s newest beauty layout. French beauty 24 Shopper Stalker Who’s buying what—and Marine Deleeuw, why—in Brooklyn. seen here at Dries Van Noten, was MISC the undisputed catwalk queen of 12 Pete Unplugged WWD’s executive editor of the Spring 2014 shows, walking beauty, Pete Born, assesses old-school brick-and- in 65 shows. mortar in an omnichannel world. ON THE COVER: Leslie H. Wexner, founder, chairman and chief executive officer of L Brands Inc., photographed exclusively for WWD Beauty Inc by Andrew Spear. CONTENTS Photo illustration by Julien Pacaud. PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI BY PHOTO WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 206, NO. 122. SATURDAY, DECEMBER 14, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. 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MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. BB-1312-PG0X-TOC.a;9.indd 8 12/3/13 5:12 PM INTRODUCING BE AN INSPIRATION #modernmuse © 2013 Estée Lauder Inc. 10 WWD BEAUTY INC EDITOR’S LETTER EDWARD NARDOZA EDITOR IN CHIEF, W WD PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY JENNY B. FINE EDITOR The Merchant of Wow JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR orty years ago, Leslie H. Wexner, always an avid reader, made the decision MOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR to eschew fiction in favor of history and biographies because, in his view, BELISA SILVA BEAUTY MARKET EDITOR, MASS reality was much more compelling than make-believe. Yet Wexner’s JAYME CYK EDITORIAL ASSISTANT KATIE KRETSCHMER COPY EDITOR personal tale is the stuff that dreams are made of. In 1963, Wexner ART borrowed $5,000 from his aunt to start The Limited, a clothing store BARBARA SULLIVAN ART DIRECTOR geared towards young women. First-year sales soared to $160,000. Just six years F CONTRIBUTORS later, Wexner took the company public, with shares of The Limited offered at $7.25. SAMANTHA CONTI AND NINA JONES (London), MILES SOCHA (Paris), CYNTHIA MARTENS (Milan), MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN (Los Angeles), Today, the stock trades in the mid-60s range, and Wexner’s company, L Brands Inc., MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE (Berlin), AMANDA KAISER (Tokyo) has evolved into a $10 billion retail powerhouse in the personal care and lingerie PHOTO segments through its superstar formats: Bath and Body Works and Victoria’s Secret, CARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO DIRECTOR LEXIE MORELAND ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR as well as Pink, Henri Bendel and La Senza. The 76-year-old self-made billionaire JENNA GREENE ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR is the longest-serving chief executive of a Fortune 500 company, and he remains as CARTER LOVE BOOKINGS EDITOR EILEEN TSUJI PHOTO COORDINATOR vitally involved in the business today as when he founded the company 50 years ago. ROBERT COHEN PHOTO FACILITATOR JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN, He’s also as outspoken as ever—most recently sparking a fierce industry-wide debate THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOGRAPHERS when he proclaimed department stores irrelevant. CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Whether or not you agree with Wexner on that particular point, his impact on RUVEN AFANADOR, KENJI AOKI, DAN BORRIS, NIGEL DICKSON, HENRY LEUTWYLER, MARK HANAUER, MICHAEL NAGLE, beauty and retailing is undisputed. And for a year that saw so much activity in the JEFF RIEDEL, PHILIPPE SALOMON, DAVID LEWIS TAYLOR, YASU+JUNKO retail arena, we could think of no more-fitting honoree for WWD Beauty Inc’s 2013 Visionary of the Year award.