• Backroads Drives • 50% Off Hotel Deal • Zell am See GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for , Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe THIS ISSUE: • Driving the Autobahn

DEAR DRIVING IN EUROPE SUBSCRIBER This month Gemütlichkeit offers advice on renting and driving a car in Europe, wrapping it all up with five of our favorite backroads routes. May 31, 1995 n these weak- person/per day. Even the Getting the Best Hotel Rate land — dropped. Two dollar days, Major hotel chains behave like weeks in a snazzy little Opel second-class German Rail airlines. An unoccupied hotel room, I economics dictate, Corsa — perfectly comfort- Twinpass (five days travel like an empty airplane seat, is rev- among other able for two persons — in in one month for two enue forever lost. And like airlines, things, our mode of travel Germany is slightly less adults traveling together) hotels use advance bookings to in Europe. Most of us go than $275, including tax. costs two persons a total of determine future occupancy rates. there in twos, threes and Figure another $160 for $267. That’s still $26.70 per As soon as the crystal ball predicts fours and the cost of two, enough fuel to go 1400 miles day/per person and travel empty beds, the discount programs three or four rail passes is (more than 100 miles a day is limited to Germany. are trotted out. That’s why, for usually more expensive and you’re spending too So, let's say you’ve example, one can book a double than one rental car. The much time in the car) and room at the Hotel Sofitel in Zürich done all the math and countryside is cheaper than the per person/per day reluctantly decided this summer for $138 when the the city and the way to get lowest “rack” or published rate for transportation cost is a little against those splendid deep into it is by car. the cheapest double room is about over $15. The per person/ European trains. Now (Europe’s network of trains $215. per day cost of a Eurailpass you want to know what is indeed remarkable but is $33. The Flexipass, at kind of car to rent and These larger chain hotels have many villages and country $398 per person, is cheaper what to expect on the a variety of discount programs ready hotels aren’t served by overall, but it only allows highways of Germany, to dust off anytime the house isn’t rail.) five days travel in two Austria and Switzerland. full. They are so numerous it be- In 1995, rail passes in- months’ time. That’s nearly Here are our thoughts on comes difficult for in-house and creased in price while rates $80 per day. A better deal is these matters as well as a outside reservations services to be the Europass which limits consistent in their price quotes. for the most popular catego- look at of some of our ries of rental cars — at least travel to five days in three favorite backroads drives. A San Francisco television sta- in Germany and Switzer- countries for $280 or $56 per Continued on page 3... tion recently performed a hotel booking experiment. Though lim- Gemütlichkeit Destination Special Business ited to large, chain hotels in San Class Fares Francisco — Hiltons, Marriotts, ZELL AM SEE Hyatts, etc. — the results are in- on Swissair structive to anyone reserving a ho- ell am See is a pensionen (bed & breakfast) his summer, in ad- tel room anywhere in the world. pleasant, though and vacation apartments. T dition to the price reduc- busy resort, well- In fact, a booklet published Z tions already exclusively The survey first called each situated as a base by the Zell am See tourist available to Gemütlichkeit hotel’s 800 toll-free booking num- location for exploring office lists nearly 100 ber to ask the double room rate on subscribers, Swissair now Austria’s lovely Pinzgau apartments for rent. a specific date. The next call was to region or as a stopover for offers subscribers even the hotel directly, again requesting north-south and east-west In winter, Zell am See is greater reduced rates in a double room on the same date. travelers. And, since it is the center of a highly Business Class on select- The third call, like the second, direct popular ski region. In ed flights from Chicago to the hotel, differed in that the on the line between Salzburg and Innsbruck, summer the town still and Los Angeles. In or- caller aggressively sought the best bustles, but the pace slows der to qualify, you must possible price, such as AAA or AARP there is frequent rail ser- somewhat and hotel prices purchase an economy membership discounts, corporate vice. discounts or any other special rates are lower. class excursion fare. This The region has a multi- fare has no advance pur- that might lower the price. Four Though the town itself tude of hotels from which chase requirement, no hotels were surveyed. The results? has no special charm and to choose as well as a minimum or maximum substantial list of Frühstück- can be seen in no more than Continued on page 2… Continued on page 6… Continued on page 8… May, 1995 chain hotels. We suggest a fax inquiry seeking the Europe. We recommend their convenience and DEAR SUBSCRIBER lowest rate for the type of room desired. Ask about the favorable exchange rate. On our April trip we Continued from page 1 special rates: weekend rates, senior citizens rates took a few traveler’s checks but didn’t cash a single • Except in one instance, where the 800 quote or any other discounts that might be available. (A one; our sole source of local currency was ATMs. and the quote direct from the hotel were exactly the word of caution: this could not only get you the Use a debit card instead of a credit card; you won’t same, no two calls to the same hotel yielded the cheapest room but the least desirable one as well. pay interest and the transaction fee will likely be same price quote (though even in this case the If you need a quiet room, a view room, a balcony, less (make sure your credit card doesn't charge a aggressive, discount-seeking caller later got a etc., be sure to specify that in your inquiry.). conversion fee). lower price). Smaller, family-operated European hotels Traveler's checks are not yet extinct and you • In all cases the lowest price was obtained by don’t offer the variety of discounts one finds at a will still want to carry some. If you buy them in a the discount-seeker. In one instance, the 800 toll- Sofitel, a Steigenberger or a Hilton, but still they foreign denomination, be sure to shop the ex- free service quoted a $185 rate, the hotel slightly are often open to negotiation. In April, we were at change rate. Traveler's checks from American less and the discount seeker was offered a rate of the Hotel Landhaus in Saanen, Switzerland, about Express or Thomas Cook may be free but a bank is $69. three kilometers down the road from chic and almost certain to offer a better exchange rate. expensive Gstaad. The hotel was virtually empty, • In every case but the one mentioned above, the manager complained, because certain affilia- Odds & Ends the price quoted by the hotel was lower than that tions with other hotels in the region — including The May issue of the excellent Consumer quoted by the 800 toll-free service. Gstaad — forced her to agree to rates higher than Reports Travel Letter (subscriptions $39, phone she felt necessary. She strongly indicated a will- orders 800-234-1970) evaluates hotel voucher • Here’s how it played at one hotel. The 800 ingness to cut room prices on a case-by-case programs. Among those in which the average toll-free service said the hotel was fully booked. basis in times of low occupancy. voucher costs more than the hotel's rack rate are: The “non-discount” direct-to-the-hotel caller was MinOtel (11% higher), German Hotels' told rooms were available and given a quote. The moral of all this is: ask for the room you Wundercheck (2%); Best Western's Euro- Finally, the discount-seeker was not only told want, then ask for the lowest price. Guestcheque (1%). Not all vouchers were above rooms were available but was quoted a substan- rack rate. CRTL noted these good deals: Best tially lower rate than the second caller. Easy Money In Europe Western-Darmstadt, Germany $91 and Nürnberg We had just been presented with the bill $104; Holiday Inn-Frankfurt $135, Hamburg $135, One thing seems crystal clear: in order to following dinner in a Lausanne restaurant. There Munich $107; Geneva $135; Wundercheck-Baden- obtain a discount you must ask for it. Last month, were six of us. Foolishly I had assumed the Baden, $112. for example, we called to book a room at a Hilton restaurant would accept one of my credit cards. I Hotel in San Diego. “Yes sir,” said the toll-free was mistaken, the bill required more cash than I Vienna's Kursalon im Stadtpark has reopened booking service, “we can offer you a queen-size had. So what now? Not surprisingly — remember and concerts will again take place each day, April- room for $139.” We next asked this simple ques- we were in Switzerland — only a few steps up the October, at 4-6 p.m. and 8-9:30 p.m. Mozart's tion, “Don’t you have a better rate than that?” street from the restaurant was a bank. It had an birthplace, at Getreidegasse 9 in Salzburg, has “Well, sir, the best I can do for that room is our ATM that accepted my Citibank Visa. In two been completely renovated and is now open daily. special ‘bounce-back’ rate of $109.” Had we not minutes I had the cash I needed. Now, back in the Travelers who want to see Berlin’s historic asked for the lower rate we would have paid the office nearly a month later, my Visa bill discloses Reichstag for the first time are advised to skip the extra $30. And who knows, we might have done that the 600 Swiss francs the machine spit out cost town during the period June 17 to July 6 when the better calling the hotel directly. me $535. That’s an exchange rate of 1.12 , considerably better than the over-the-counter rate famous old building, bullet hotels and all, will be The San Francisco results coincide with our of 1.10 or 1.09 in effect at that time in Switzerland. covered in a silver polypropylene fabric, courtesy own experiences over the past nine years. We have In addition there was a $10 transaction fee (2% or of the artist Christo. Those who have already always recommended getting a price quote from maximum $10, minimum $2) and about $3.00 eyeballed the Reichstag, but who would like to see both the hotel in Europe and from any U.S. reser- interest figured from the transaction date. In the what it looks like gift wrapped, may encounter vation service, especially when booking well-known past couple of years ATMs have proliferated in difficulty finding accommodations. The city’s ho- tels are rapidly filling for this event.

Vol. 9, No. 5 HOTEL RESTAURANT RATING KEY May, 1995 GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe Rating Category Scale Hotel Rating Criteria Unacceptable 0 -. 3 People/Service 30% Editor & Publisher: Robert H. Bestor, Jr. Adequate 4 - 7 Location/Setting 15% Associate Editors: Elizabeth Schiller, Bruce Woelfel Average 8 - 11 Guestrooms 30% Contributing Editors: C. Fischer, R. Holliday Above Average 12 - 15 Public rooms 5% Design & Composition: Paul T. Merschdorf Excellent 16 - 20 Facilities/Restaurant 20% Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Subscription Dept:. Andy Bestor, K. Steffans Special Designations Restaurant Criteria Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published monthly by UpCountry Publish- G By virtue of location, decor, Food 65% ing, 2892 Chronicle Avenue, Hayward, CA 94542. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521- special charm, warmth of Service 20% 6722 or 510/538-0628. FAX: 510/582-8296. Subscriptions are $67 per year management, or combina- Atmosphere 15% for 12 issues. While every effort is made to provide correct information in this tion thereof, an especially publication, the publishers can make no guarantees regarding accuracy. pleasant establishment. Second-class postage paid in Hayward, CA. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: $ Offers significant value. Gemütlichkeit, 2892 Chronicle Ave., Hayward, CA 94542

Gemütlichkeit 2 May, 1995 Rates for minivans have skyrock- pean motorists will drive faster than DRIVING EUROPE eted in 1995 and substantial savings you; not only on the Autobahn but in Continued from page 1 can be realized by renting two mid- towns and on country roads. On sized sedans. narrow alpine roads, especially, the CHOOSING A RENTAL CAR locals know the road better and are Finally, we don’t recommend For two persons the Opel Corsa simply willing to go faster and pass renting in Italy or Austria. Rates in (Ford Fiesta and VW Polo are also in in places you wouldn’t dream of. So both countries are very high and Italy when another car looms in your this category) is fine, especially for requires the purchase of theft insur- those who plan to avoid the Auto- mirror, get out of the way. ance which is about $14 per day. bahn. There is adequate trunk space THE AUTOBAHN (covered hatch), the car looks good THE EUROPEAN DRIVER and is fun to drive. Virtually every Gemütlichkeit’s philosophy has In general, drivers in Europe are European rental car these days comes always been tied to backroads travel; better than American drivers (o.k., with a tape player in addition to a leisurely meanders through the pretty o.k., California drivers). They are radio and the Corsa is no exception. countryside, stopping at whim to look better trained, much more predictable at a church or quaff a beverage under If you plan to spend significant and, believe it or not, more courteous. a chestnut tree. time on the Autobahn, move up to the Rarely do they cut you off, pass on next category — Opel Astra, Ford the right (illegal) or follow too closely But for most of us, there will come Escort, VW Golf. These cars are in situations where passing is impos- a time in almost every trip when we comfortable at 80 to 90 mph and have sible. In addition, a motorist attempt- have to get somewhere fast. Then, it’s a larger trunk — figure one big suit- ing to turn from a side street or thank the Lord for the Autobahn. But case, two small ones and maybe a driveway into a long, slow line of these wondrous roads, particularly in garment bag and/or a soft duffel or vehicles almost never has to wait to Germany where there is no speed two. They come in both two-door join the line. In California, that driver limit, are serious business. At 80 to and four-door models, occasionally is trapped until the last car passes; in 135 miles per hour things happen with a sunroof and are perfectly Germany, Austria and Switzerland, much more quickly than on our more comfortable for three adults who go he or she will be quickly waved into sedate (but less predictable) freeways easy on the luggage. the line. and turnpikes. For two couples, our choice is the But what about those Autobahn First-time Autobahn drivers will midsize Opel Vectra/Ford Mondeo bullies who tailgate at 100-plus mph? either enjoy the fast driving or be category, which comes with four Well, for one thing, Germany has appalled by it. One quickly learns doors. Trunk space is a little iffy, cracked down and the practice has that only the fastest drivers — 180 to however, and we suggest a visit to diminished in the last few years. By 240 kilometers per hour (113 to 138 your local Ford dealer for a gander at the way, if you’re being tailgated you miles per hour) — can live in the left the trunk of a 1995 Ford Contours are going too slow. Move over! lane. At lower speeds they are repeat- (the U.S. version of the Mondeo). edly required to vacate the left lane by On the other hand the natives faster cars. Some cars will come up The next size category — Ford want you to drive by their rules. Pass on them so quickly they virtually Scorpio/Opel Omega (both about the on the right, fail to signal or do materialize in the rear view mirror, size of a Ford Taurus) — is substan- something unexpected and they’ll let left turn signal blinking and occasion- tially more expensive. To get a bit you know with a scowl, a wagging ally— if the car in front is slow to more legroom and trunk space you’ll finger or, yes, a flash of the head- react — headlights flashing. It doesn’t pay two to three times the cost of the lights. (We’ll never forget the story of take a car going 125 mph long to Vectra/Mondeo. And by the way, a friend who had driven all day overtake one going 90 mph. the pricey BMW 316i or Mercedes through rain and snow from Italy to 180C cars are no larger than the Garmisch-Partenkirchen where it was Left Lane/Rght Lane Dilemma Vectra/Mondeo category. a clear but very cold day with much Picture this: you are in the right snow on the ground. At a stop light lane cruising at a sensible (for Germa- Those who must have customary he pulled his mud-covered Fiat ny) 140 kmph (88 mph). Suddenly, American amenities and size will pay alongside a spotless, gleaming Mer- just as you round a long curve, is a dearly. The typically available full- cedes driven by an ample German giant truck going 60 mph in your lane. sized cars such as the Volvo 960, matron. She first eyeballed the Fiat Your rearview mirror reveals a BMW BMW 730 and the big Mercedes Benz for a few seconds and then, after in the left lane closing like a low- models start at around $600 per week making eye contact with my friend, flying jet at about 115 mph. The plus tax. Air-conditioned cars in scowled at his dirty car while shaking choice is to either stand on the brakes Germany are rare and fabulously her head from side to side and wagg- and pray you don’t rear-end the truck, expensive. Air is more readily avail- ing an index finger at this abomina- or jump on the accelerator, switch to able in Switzerland but only on large, tion.) the left lane, and pray the ‘Beamer’ more expensive rentals. Some mid- doesn’t rear-end you. sized cars in come with air. Almost without exception, Euro- Continued on page 4…

Gemütlichkeit 3 May, 1995 1:150,000 (1 cm=1.5 km) is best. In ell (about 65 km south of the Vienna- DRIVING IN EUROPE Austria and Switzerland, the Die Salzburg Autobahn, exit St. Pölten), Continued from page 3 Generalkarte series published by Mairs along the Salza river southwest to The foregoing scenario under- Verlag of Germany fits the bill nicely. Hieflau, is through some of Austria’s scores a major Autobahn danger; the The Austria series consists of nine most uninhabited countryside. Before huge difference in speed between maps and includes Italy’s Südtirol. setting out, fill your gas tank and lanes. If there are only two lanes in Four maps are required for Switzer- purchase food and drink for a picnic your direction, the left one will have land. In Germany, your choice is Die lunch. There are few restaurants vehicles traveling 50 to 80 mph faster Generalkarte (37 maps) by Mairs or the along the way, but several lovely than the big trucks in the right lane 1:150,000 ADAC Karten (24 maps) spots for picnics. Including stops for which are only going 60 miles per published by the German Auto Club. sight-seeing, figure about three hours. Michelin rules the roads in France hour — slower on hills. Those who The countryside is quietly spectac- and their series for that country want to drive 75 to 100 mph are ular. The road runs beneath limestone includes 40 individual maps at a scale caught in a no-man’s land, too slow cliffs eroded into extraordinary for- of 1:200,000. for the left lane and too fast for the mations and the ravine slopes are right. A high level of concentration is These maps do more than help covered with green conifers and de- required for this sort of driving, you find your way. Scenic roads are ciduous foliage that make this drive particularly if you venture in that 75- edged in green and symbols or special especially lovely in the fall. In places 100 mph no-man’s land. markings indicate such things as pan- where the valley widens, the farms Running With a Fast Crowd oramic views, picturesque towns, and grazing cattle seem like set piec- If you have a fast car and want to historic towns, special routes (wine es, perfectly roads, for example), footpaths, church- placed on the MARIAZELL compete with the left lane fliers you’ll St. Pölten have to be especially alert. Passing a es, castles and even golf courses. broad meadow. 65 km 75-mph line of traffic when you’re The river runs so Gusswerk As every Gemütlichkeit reader clear that, if you going 110 becomes a major problem knows (see Gemütlichkeit, rather quickly if one of them decides February 1995), we strong- Palfau to change lanes in front of you. There ly recommend Michelin’s Wildalpen might be some bailout room on the Red Guides for Germany left shoulder but that’s your only and Switzerland (there is Weichselboden escape. Watch every vehicle in the no Michelin Red Guide for HIEFLAU right lane very carefully for the first Austria). They are essen- sign of a lane change. tial to the auto traveler for look closely, you will be able to see ALSO TO CONSIDER many reasons, not the least being fish swimming — from your moving their many city maps. For example, car. Signage you probably don’t want to spend $6 Autobahn signs are a bright blue, to $10 in advance on a map for a The few villages that comprise except in Switzerland where they are midsize city such as Bamberg. Since civilization along this road, such green and the signs for secondary you’ll see the city on foot, and a town Weischelboden, Wildalpen, Palfau roads are in blue. plan is available free at the tourist and Grossreifling are tiny and very Yes, They Have Radar office, the principal need is for some- quiet. thing in the car to get you to your Though you won’t get a ticket on Our recommendation is to over- hotel when you arrive and get you the German autobahn for speeding night at Mariazell, where a Benedic- out of town when you leave. Miche- (unless there is a posted speed limit) tine priory was founded in 1157 and lin Red does that for about 150 cities you can for other violations. On Pope John Paul II said Mass on Sep- in Germany and about 40 in Switzer- lesser highways, particularly in the tember 13, 1983. The town attracts land. countryside, there are radar speed pilgrims who come to pray for the traps. Justice is swift; one pays on the indulgence of the Madonna of Maria- spot in cash. zell. Inside the Basilica see the strik- Maps and Other Driving Aids Five Favorite ing Chapel of Miracles and the Schatz- Don’t think that nice map the kammer (Treasury) with its collection tourist office sent you for free is in Backroads Drives of the votive offerings of hundreds of any way suitable to guide you in your years of pilgrims, from simple draw- backroads travels. Each of our three ings by children to heirlooms of great

countries has a complex network of #1 Mariazell to Hieflau value. roads and detailed maps are essential. Austria Simple, inexpensive rooms are Use the free map as a planning device Necessary maps: Die Generalkarte #2 available at Gasthof Zum Alten Brau- and for an overall perspective of the Austria haus, just off the town square, no country. A scale of 1:200,000 (one more than a couple of hundred yards centimeter equals two kilometers) or This beautiful, peaceful route, from the pilgrimage town of Mariaz- from the church.

Gemütlichkeit 4 May, 1995 Gasthof Zum Alten Brauhaus, 5 yellow road at Klais into . feld and the interesting wine town of Weiner Straße, 8630 Mariazell, tel. Wipfeld (great stone house and barn). It's easy to become confused, and 03882/2523. Next, cross the Main again, this time you may have to stop often to consult by ferry (1 DM). the map, but this drive is worth it. #2 Füssen to Mittenwald Go on to Lindach, Kolitzheim and Post-Hotel, Obermarkt 9, D-8102 Herlheim. Next is Alitzheim and Germany Mittenwald, telephone 08823/1094, then along the edge of the Steiger- Necessary Maps: ADAC #15 fax 08823/1096. wald Naturpark to Knetzgau and Traffic on the German Alpine Pension Heim, Aufmberg 8, Seeg north to Hassfurt, another interesting Road in Southern is heavy at D-87637, tel. 08364/258, fax 08364/ town. Continue north to Hofheim all times, but especially in summer. 1051 then east and a little south to Ebern, Here is a route from Füssen east to once a walled city and full of half- the charming town of Mittenwald via #3 to Coburg timbered buildings. From here use the most deserted of country lanes. the map to pick your own route into Füssen is the town nearest Bavaria’s Germany Coburg. One way is via Sesslach, yet famed Royal Castles and Mittenwald Necessary maps: Die Generalkarte another picturesque town with is known for its violin-makers. Along #16-#14 for Germany, or ADAC narrow cobbled the way is one of Germany’s most Karte #9-#10. streets and a fine COBURG renowned churches, the Wieskirche stone church. The scenery on this drive is (“church in the meadows”), a Rococo pleasant and restful rather than Sesslach masterpiece. spectacular. On it you will cross the You may want to start from Seeg, Main River on a little ferry, visit a Hassfurt a village 14 kilometers northwest of pilgrimage church in a mead- Ebern Füssen, and its friendly and inexpen- ow, encounter interest- Sulzheim Knetzgau sive little Pension Heim. From Seeg, ing medieval towns, Gramschatz Zellingen first go east to Rosshaupten then on pass by Franconian Bamberg gray and yellow roads to Lechbruck vineyards, see few

and on to Steingaden. Just south of tour buses and MARKTHEIDENFELD Würzburg Hotel Anker, Obertorstrasse 6, Steingaden, from red road #17, get on enjoy some of Marktheidenfeld, D-97828, tel. the gray road to Litzau and the Germany’s prettiest farm country. 09391/60040, fax 09391/600477 Wieskirche. This part is very tricky, Begin at Marktheidenfeld, just Schloss Neuhof, Neuhofer Strasse the signs are mostly for hikers. Follow north of the Autobahn between 10, Neu Neershof-Coburg, D-96450, the ones pointing to the Wieskirche. Aschaffenburg and Würzburg where tel. 09563/2051, fax 09563/2107 After visiting the church — 30 to 45 are found the excellent Hotel Anker minutes — return to the gravel road and its Weinhaus Anker, a wonder- and continue southeast to Unternogg #4 Bern to Brienz ful restaurant. In Coburg, 47 kilome- and Altenau. This is true backroads ters north of Bamberg, you might Switzerland travel, more trail than highway. overnight in the country at the Necessary maps: Die Generalkarte There are many places to stop for a moderately-priced Schloss Neuhof. #2 Switzerland picnic in the woods. The hotel is actually in Neu Neer- The obvious and quickest way Upon reaching the red road go left shof, six km east of town. Coburg from Bern to Brienz is via the Auto- toward and then right on itself is worth at least a day's sight- bahn along the south shores of the seeing. Thunersee and the Brienzersee

Lechbruck Steingaden Head north from Marktheiden- through Interlaken. Our route, Roßhaupten feld to Karbach and however, goes through the Emme Litzau Seeg Wieskirche Zellingen, through Saulgrub Valley and into the Bernese Oberland Altenau Birkenfeld and Billing- by way of the Glaubenbüelen Pass. Füssen shausen. At Zellingen, On it you’ll see picturesque farm

Unternogg AUTOBAHN TO MUNICH go through the tower villages of the Emmental and finish Eschenlohe gate and cross the Main. with a wonderfully scenic and pan- From there go to Retzs- oramic mountain pass road. the yellow road to Bad tadt (where there is a Kohlgrub. Before Mur- Garmisch- Actually, we began at Worb and Partenkirchen wine festival each July) nau turn right and south its excellent and moderately-priced Mittenwald and Gramschatz. toward Grafensschau and Gasthof zum Löwen. From there on to Eschenlohe. From there you Then it’s Hausen and St. Hubur- proceed via Zäzwil to Langnau, a must go south on the major highway tus-Verein, a pilgrimage church and prosperous Emmentaler farming through Garmisch-Partenkirchen then an Augustinian Monastery. Then on town and site of a simple country east and finally south, taking the to Fährbrück, Opferbaum, Schwan- Continued on page 6…

Gemütlichkeit 5 May, 1995 try — though it will take a bit more FAVORITE DRIVES time unless your ultimate destination ZELL AM SEE Continued from page 5 is southern Switzerland — is to turn Population: 8,000 hotel offering good value, the Land- south at Landeck on red road #315. Altitude: 2,484 feet gasthof Hirschen. The kitchen is Just north of Nauders at the Italian Tourist Office border, veer right and a little west on better than average and you may want Kurverwaltung Zell am See to stop for lunch. Then continue on to red road #27, entering Switzerland at Schalkl. Then follow the Brucker Bundesstrasse signs towards Zernez. A-5700 Zell am See. LUCERNE staying on #27, passing Phone 06542/2600-0 Schüpfheim Langnau through Scuol. Fax 06542/2032 At Susch, you can Disabled Access: Not suitable BERN choose to continue on south Closed: November Worb to such destinations as St. Giswil Moritz, Pontresina and Parking: Free Lugano, or go northwest Other: Free pickup at rail station over the beautiful Flüela- Rating: ABOVE AVERAGE 14/20 G $ Schüpfheim and Brienzer pass to Davos and on to Rothorn Hotel Feinschmeck turn south onto the Zürich. Recently refurbished yellow road over BRIENZ EDITOR’S the pass (make sure ZELL AM SEE with lots of mirrors, CHOICE it is open) to Giswil. Once down the Continued from page 1 marble and brass, this family mountain at Giswil you can elect to owned and operated hotel couldn’t be a couple of hours, its location on the turn right to Brienz or go left to Luc- more centrally located. Guestrooms lake surrounded by mountains is erne. are large and modern with the usual quite lovely and nearby are two of four-star amenities. Most appealing Gasthof zum Löwen, Engistein- Austria’s most notable attractions. of the public rooms is the atmospher- strasse 3, Worb bei Bern CH-3076, tel. Visitors should take one day to drive ic, cozy Franz-Josef Stuberl, where, 031/83 23 03, fax 031/839 58 77. the spectacular Grossglockner Road depending on the hour or the occa- and another to cross the Gerlos Pass, Landgasthof Hirschen, Langnau sion, locals drop by for a glass of stopping at the Krimml Waterfalls. CH-3550, tel. 035/21517, fax 035/ wine, a bowl of soup, afternoon tea or 25623. Hotel Berner a late-night brandy. The welcome is lively and friendly from energetic and Top value among the effervescent Phillip Prodinger, who Innsbruck to Switzerland hotels reviewed here. EDITOR’S #5 CHOICE has taken over the Feinschmeck’s Chalet-style building in a Austria/Switzerland management from his parents, Ger- residential area with flowered balco- hard and Frieda. Necessary maps: Die Generalkarte # 8 nies and pleasant grounds. Most for Austria and Die Generalkarte #1 guestrooms have separate sitting Address: Hotel Feinschmeck, Dreifal- and #3 for Switzerland. areas and private balconies. Many tigkeitgasse 10, A-5700, Zell am See have separate rooms for toilet and Phone: 06542/2549 bath/shower. Restaurant offers a Fax: 06542/254949 Landeck INNSBRUCK selection of vegetarian dishes. Very Location: Center Arlberg Tunnel warm welcome. A sedate, comfort- Rooms: 27 doubles, 2 singles with AUSTRIA cable TV, radio, phone Zürich Pfunds able hotel. Flüelapass Chur Address: Hotel Berner, Nikolaus- Proprietor: Phillip Prodinger Davos Nauders Gassner-Promenade 1, A-5700 Prices: Singles 870 to 1370 AS ($85-$134), SWITZERLAND Susch ITALY Zell am See doubles 1380 to 2280 AS ($135-$223) Phone: 06542/2557 Facilities: Sauna, solarium, two Fax: 06542/25577 restaurants St. Moritz Pontresina Location: Residential area five Credit Card: All minute walk from center Disabled Access: Not suitable Rooms: 27 doubles, 3 suites, all with Closed: Never lake view, balcony, cable TV, radio, Parking: Free phone, hairdryer Rating: ABOVE AVERAGE 13/20 G Motorists traveling west across Proprietor: Eric & Anita Berner Austria and into Switzerland will Prices: Singles 700 to 1350 AS ($69-$132), Der Waldhof encounter heavy traffic if they choose doubles 1100 to 2300 AS ($108-$225) Typical Austrian resort hotel with the traditional Arlberg Tunnel route Facilities: Indoor/outdoor pool, above average amenities and such and then Bludenz and Feldkirch. A outdoor terrace guest activities as wine tastings and much more scenic way into the coun- Credit Card: Visa candlelight fondue dinners. Gues-

Gemütlichkeit 6 May, 1995 troom furnishings and decor do not Fax: 06542/2570-35 pungent and nicely melted and the quite match Der Waldhof’s stylish, Location: Residential area 10 minutes veal in the Schnitzel tender and almost elegant, public rooms. walk from center delicious. Accompanying pommes Address: Der Waldhof, Schmitten- Rooms: 17 doubles with telephone, frites were perfection. Salads glis- strasse 47, A-5700, Zell am See most with balcony. tened with the freshest greens and vegetables, and the dressing had just Phone: 06542/2853-0 Facilities: TV in rooms can be rented the right tang to it. It seems pointless Fax: 06542/2853-28 Proprietor: Family Gruber Location: Residential area, five to describe such meals, since we’ve all Prices: Singles 300 to 380 AS ($29- had these dishes before. Seldom, minute walk from center. Free $37), doubles 600 to 720 AS ($59-$71) shuttle to train station however, have we had them this Facilities: No lift, sauna good. Rooms: 48 doubles, 5 singles with Credit Cards: cable TV, radio, phone, minibar Not accepted Other starred items in our notes Proprietor: Josef Loferer Disabled Access: Not suitable were a terrific celery soup and a Prices: Singles 1010 to 1740 AS ($99-$170), Closed: Never dessert called Heidelbeerpalatschinke doubles 1820 to 3280 AS ($178-$322) Parking: Free mit Vanillia Eis, a hip-enhancing Facilities: Sauna, fitness room, Jacuzzi, Rating: ADEQUATE 6/20 $ combination of warm blueberry-filled heated outdoor pool, massage crepes with powdered sugar and Credit Card: All cinnamon, vanilla ice cream, sliced A Gem of a Restaurant almonds and Schlagobers (whipped Disabled Access: Not suitable cream). Closed: Nov. to mid-Dec., first two Gasthof Steinerwirt weeks in May Where one finds locals having a Steinerwirt serves very good Parking: Free drink and playing cards one finds Tauern Gold vom fass (18 AS/$1.78) and what for us was a first, Jungwein Rating: ABOVE AVERAGE 14/20 good food. Though this is still a theory and not yet a law, it seems to Premiere. The time was November Hotel Heitzmann be a more reliable way of choosing a and, like France’s Nouveau Beau- Very good four-star hotel in town restaurant than looking at the cars jolais, Jungwein Premiere is the first red center. Refurbished three years ago. parked out front (an unpretentious wine of the vintage. Delicious. A Several guestrooms, including the restaurant with well-heeled custom- small carafe for two persons was 70 gorgeous wedding suite, come with ers is supposed to mean good food) or AS ($6.93) private Jacuzzi. Hotel also offers trying to pick up subtle quality indi- Not including wine and beer, the vacation rentals on the lake's oppo- cators from the menu posted at the meals for two persons averaged about site shore starting at about 1100 AS entrance. 450 AS ($44). ($110) per day for four persons. Actually, a tip on the Gasthof This place is worth going a bit out Address: Hotel Heitzmann, Loferer Steinerwirt, where we enjoyed two of of your way for. Bundesstrasse 4, A-5700, Zell am See the best down-to-earth meals of the Gasthof Steinerwirt, Dreifaltigkeit- Phone: 06542/2152 past year or so, came from Phillip gasse, Zell am See, A-5700, tel. 06542/ Fax: 06542/215233 Prodinger, whose Feinschmeck Hotel 2502, fax 06542/357871. Credit cards Location: Central is next door. The four ruddy-faced o.k. Inexpensive to moderate. Rooms: 30 doubles all with satellite card players at a nearby table were Rating: ABOVE AVERAGE 15/20 G $ TV, phone and radio. simply icing on the cake. Proprietor: Rudi Heitzmann Though most tables in the Steiner- Prices: Singles 890 to 1260 AS ($87-$124), wirt’s wood-paneled main dining EUROPE doubles 1480 to 2220 AS ($145-$218) room are covered with white and Facilities: Steam bath, sauna, solari- pink linen and have a vase of cut TRAVEL um, massage flowers, its easy going atmosphere is Credit Cards: All right up our alley. You'll feel perfect- BRIEFING Disabled Access: Yes ly at home in blue jeans. Apartment/Chalet Rentals Closed: Nov. to early December, two The Steinerwirt’s menu lists the Interhome, a Swiss company, says weeks in April same tried and true Austrian dishes it is Europe’s leader in weekly villa, Parking: Free as thousands of other Austrian restau- chalet and apartment rentals and Rating: ABOVE AVERAGE 13/20 rants; but like the Green Bay Packers boasts 20,000 listings in 13 countries. of the 60s, who used the same basic Pension Alpenrose plays as other teams, the Steinerwirt A recent news release from the Simple bed and breakfast. just executes them better. company recommended booking early for the 1995/96 ski season and Earthy, friendly. All but two rooms Prosaic dishes like Schnitzel or have private balcony. Cordon Bleu are raised to a higher offered a few examples of available Address: Pension Alpenrose, Schmit- level at the Steinerwirt. In both, the rentals guaranteed in dollars: a tenstrasse 22, A-5700, Zell am See crust was perfectly crisp and grease- studio for two persons in Grindel- Phone: 06542/2570 less. The Cordon Bleu’s cheese was wald in early December for $696/ Continued on page 8… Gemütlichkeit 7 May, 1995 For the most part these reservations for the 50% SWISSAIR DEAL TRAVEL BRIEFING are big chain hotels of the discount once their project- Continued from page 1 Continued from page 7 Sheraton, Radisson, Marri- ed occupancy rate reaches stay, and allows for one free week; a two-bedroom ott genre and located in 80% and one paid ($50) stopover. apartment for six persons major cities. For more information The upgrade to Business in Verbier in February for Their value, however, is call 800-445-4137 or send Class is available for an addi- $1,317/week; a one-bed- undeniable. In Lausanne, check for $48.00 to Enter- tional $500 each way from room luxury condo for tainment Travel Editions, Los Angeles, or $400 each for example, members can three persons in Innsbruck 40 Oakview Dr, Trumbull, way from Chicago. select the 116-room Hotel in December for $1,292 per de la Paix or the 54-room CT, 06611. VISA and For example, the week. The literature also Victoria. Double rooms at Master Card Accepted. Gemütlichkeit subscriber says a “simple but ade- the Victoria range from 190 economy excursion fare quate” studio in Château Sfr. to 265 Sfr. The EE 50% from San Francisco is $1388 d’Oex can be rented for as discount makes them 95 to READERS' — $1538 less the $150 little as $250 per week. subscriber reduction — 133 Sfr. At today’s ex- making the roundtrip via In addition, Interhome change rate of 1.2 Sfr. to the FORUM Los Angeles $2388. The is currently offering a 5- dollar, that’s four-star normal Business Class fare 10% discount on all book- accommodations for from Austria Train Deal is $3448. ings made before the end of $79 to $110 double. Having I received your April There are restrictions: June and a 20% discount just returned from a trip 1995 issue in the mail today throughout 1995 (except that included five nights in • Offer is good only on and noted the German train during the period July 8 to Lausanne, we can assure flights from Los Angeles, deal that Jerry Elenz wrote you such prices are a SR107/109/106/108, and August 12) on condos in about. Not only is this offer tremendous bargain. Dou- on SR 125/124 (Mon/ Lucerne. for local trains a great deal, bles at de la Paix go for the 15 DM price for travel Tues/Wed) from Chicago. Also of interest is the from 215 to 310 Sfr. or, at all weekend is for up to and It is not applicable to any company’s standby pro- the EE discount, 113 to 155 including five people! That other gateway or flight gram which offers dis- Sfr. ($94-$129). works out to as little as 3 number. counts of up to 50% on DM per person. The offer • Upgrading is for the bookings made less than For cost-conscious runs through December 31, transatlantic portion only. one week prior to arrival. travelers who plan to spend One way is permitted. much time in major Euro- 1995 and may be purchased Travel must be completed Interhome, 124 Little pean cities this summer, the at any German rail station. by 28 October 1995. Falls Road, Fairfield NJ $48 would be well spent. There is another inter- 07004, phone 201-882-6864 • Seats are capacity esting train offer from or 800-882-6864 (bookings Here’s how the pro- controlled. The upgrade is Austria to other European only), fax 201-808-1742. gram works: on a confirmed basis only, countries. The City Star waitlisting is permitted, but 1/2 Off Hotels • You must identify Ticket (easy to pronounce standby at the airport is For those who aren’t yourself as an Entertain- even for non-German not. bothered by the mind- ment member when mak- speakers!) allows travel • Reservations and numbing similarity of ing a reservation. from any Austrian city. ticketing must be done by large, business style hotels, • The discount applies There are City Star Tickets Swissair. The offer is good membership in Entertain- from Austria to the Nether- from US origin cities pro- only to a hotel’s published ment Europe offers real rack rate, not to any group, lands, Germany, Hungary, vided there is a Swissair value. For $48 one receives and Italy. The first person published fare and the convention, corporate or a membership card good pays the discounted price, routing is via Los Angeles other discount. According for 50% off at some 700 the 2nd through 5th pas- or Chicago (Mondays/ to the EE directory, if a hotels in Europe. Gemütli- sengers pay 1/2 the dis- Tuesdays/Wednesdays hotel advertises a special chkeit recently reviewed counted price. It depends only). promotional rate to the EE’s 1995 directory of general public that is lower partly on how far within Swissair’s MD-11 participating hotels and Austria and also how far aircraft offer six abreast than the Entertainment found 10 in Austria, 15 in from the Austrian border seating in Business Class discount, 10% will be Germany and 19 in Swit- that one is traveling but it with generous seat recline deducted from that rate to zerland. In addition there doesn’t take much travel to and legroom. There are ensure EE members get the are 18 participating hotels more flight attendants to best price. make this a very attractive in Budapest and two in attend to your needs and to option. • Participating hotels serve the several courses of Prague. are not likely to accept John Nielsen, Vienna your in-flight meals. Austria

Gemütlichkeit 8 May, 1995