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Culinary Historians of Washington, D.C. May 2018 Volume XXI, Number 8

Save these future CHoW Meeting Dates: The New Southern Latino Table Speaker: Sandra Gutierrez September 9 October 14 Sunday, May 6 (Note change of location) November 11 2:00 to 4:00 p.m. December 9 Trinity United Methodist Church (Langley Hall) January 13, 2019 1205 Dolley Madison Boulevard February 10, 2019 March 10, 2019 McLean, VA 22101 April 14, 2019 (See page 6 for map and directions) May 5, 2019 and her book on the subject Join CHoW as Sandra ex- matter, The New Southern- plains the reasons why this NOTE: This is the Latino Table: Recipes that Bring new culinary movement last CHoW Line until Together the Bold and Beloved was inevitable and discusses September. Flavors of Latin America & where it’s headed today. Have a nice summer! The American South, was on See you after Labor Day! exhibit at the Smithsonian’s She will speak about the Anacostia Community Mu- “Latinx” influence in our seum from 2016 to 2018. Her foodways. Latinx refers to Renew Your other books, Latin American 21 different countries and 21 Membership in Street Food; Empanadas: the different cuisines, each one Hand-Held Pies of Latin Amer- a result of global amalgama- CHoW NOW ica; and Beans and Field , tion. With Latinx estimated for 2018-19! A Savor the South Cookbook, to become the majority of Sandra Gutierrez of Cary, have received rave reviews Americans by 2050, Sandra North Carolina, is is an from both that national and said this will be the largest The membership year expert on the subject of runs from September 1 international press, including ethnic shift in the country Latin American cuisine, The Boston Globe, Wall Street since World War II, changing to August 31. Annual a journalist, and a food dues are $35 for Journal, and The New York Times. what ingredients people will historian. Her more-than buy, and the recipes they individuals, households, 1,000 articles have been In October 2017, Sandra won seek. or organizations. Dues published in The Ox- the grand prize of $1000 include e-mail delivery of ford American, People in in Les Dames d’Escoffier the newsletter CHoW Line. Español, Cooking Club of International’s M.F.K. Fisher America, Cooking Plea- Awards. Her winning story, Dues are $50 for members sures, InStyle, USA Today, “A Voice from the Nuevo who also wish to receive a NBCLatino, Mamiverse, South,” is about the Latino FOX Latino, Southern Liv- population’s influence on mailed, paper copy of the ing, and in newspapers newsletter. Southern food and the Gua- across the country. temalan author’s personal insight into assimilation, Other Benefits: The former food editor of • Priority registration for discrimination, and the birth The Cary News from 1996 of food trends. Read it at: field trips to 2004, Sandra is cred- www.oxfordamerican.org/ • GoogleGroups notices ited with discovering a item/977-a-voice-from-the- • Membership roster new culinary movement nuevo-south

Culinary Historians of Washington, D.C. (CHoW/DC) www.chowdc.org founded in 1996, is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit, educational organization dedicated to the study of the history of foodstuffs, cuisines, and culi- nary customs, both historical and contemporary, from all parts of the world. Donations are tax deductible to the full extent of the law. What Happened at the April 8 Cooperative Supper? Theme: Sephardic Cuisine What a great time we had at CHoW’s annual Cooperative CHoW Programs 2017-2018 Supper, hosted by Shirley Cherkasky, in her community September 10 John Kelly, “Small Plates: Historic room atop her condominium building in Alexandria, Vir- Restaurant Tidbits from the Pages of The Washington Post” ginia. As it has been at our suppers in years past, the view of the Potomac and the city from the 22nd floor of her October 8 Andrew Coe, A Square Meal: A Culinary History building was spectacular. Thank you to Shirley for making possible our annual celebration. of the Great Depression

The theme of Sephardic Cuisine led us all over the globe: November 12 Susan Benjamin, “Survey of the History India, Mexico, Morocco, Curaçao, the U.S., and France, to and Changes in Food as it Relates to Candy…with name a few of the places to which the Sephardic fled. Tasting” They brought their food traditions, blended them at times with new ingredients at the new locations, and introduced December 10 John McQuaid, “The Evolution of Taste” the world to their old and new glorious food creations. Below is a list of CHoW members and their contributions January 14, 2018 Tom Croghan, “Why the Mid-Atlantic to the April supper. will Rival Bordeaux and Burgundy as a Great Wine Photos by Claudia Kousoulas and Dianne King. Growing Region”

Contributors to the CHOW Community Supper February 11, 2018 Paul Anthony Brazinski, “Food Practices in Early Christianity” Francine Berkowitz: Orange and Pomegranate Salad. Francine remembers her mother, whose March 11, 2018 Cecilia Glembocki, “The White House Egg family came from Poland, introducing Roll History” pomegranates to Francine’s childhood neighbors in Riggs Park, Washington D.C. It is likely that Eastern European April 8, 2018 Cooperative Supper, Alexandria House Jews imported pomegranates from the Middle East for Jewish celebrations. May 6, 2018 Sandra Gutierrez, “The New Southern Latino Table” Randy Clarke: Boston Baked Beans. Rabbi and food historian Gil Marks writes in The World of Jewish Cooking and Claire Cassidy and John Rosine: with and The Sephardic Kosher Kitchen Encyclopedia of Jewish Food that beans Currants from by Suzy David. were first cooked by Sephardic Jews, and Claire’s family is Irish/French/Por- that the Pilgrims picked up the recipe in tuguese of Protestant and Jewish Holland en route to the New World. The faiths. The family was forced out Jews living in the Netherlands adapted of Portugal, to Holland, and from their Middle Eastern stew to use local there to Curaçao. The island has ingredients like fava beans, or mo- Dutch, Indonesian, and African lasses, and goose fat. The Shabbat meal dishes. that could cook in residual heat from a hearth or oven appealed to the Pilgrims, Claire and John also brought Tutu, who, as Puritans, also refrained from made with cornmeal, black-eyed peas and lighting fires on the Sabbath. sauce. The recipe is found in the Sisterhood Cookbook, compiled by members of the Mikvé Israel-Emanuel synagogue in Felice Caspar: Tirshi. Pumpkin salad/ spread. A Tunisian dish served with Curaçao. It is the oldest (consecrated 1732), bread and oil. continually used synagogue in the western Adapted from Ronit Treatman’s blog: http://handsonhol- hemisphere. iday.wpengine.com/2011/08/symbolic-sephardic-foods- Mìna de Expinaca Cook- for-rosh-hashanah/ Sephardim serve symbolic foods at Shirley Cherkasky: . Adapted from ing the Sephardic Way the Rosh Hashanah Seder; some have a double-meaning by the Sephardic Sisterhood: Temple and are called “simanim,” or “signs.” Special blessings Tifereth Israel; Los Angeles, 1971. Reprinted in “Jewish are chanted over these dishes. Squash or gourd is called Recipes” from the 1976 Smithsonian Bicentennial Festival of “qara” in Aramaic and Hebrew. Qara can mean “to call American Folklife. The baked dish is made with spinach, No out” and it can also mean “to rip or tear up.” The follow- eggs, mashed potatoes, sharp cheese, and oil. photo available ing prayer is recited over the gourd: “May it be your will Adonai our God that our harsh decrees are torn up and (Continued on page 3) our merits are proclaimed before You.”

2 CHoW Line Laura Gilliam: Ginger Sponge a meat meal. Real Sephardic will Cake with and Pistachios. include a few bitter . Unfortu- From King Solomon’s Table by Joan Nathan. nately, those are illegal in America because Cardamom is used extensively in the foods of the high content of cyanide (though you of India and Scandinavia. Guatemala is only need a tiny bit of bitter almonds for now the largest producer of cardamom. marzipan). https://jewishfoodexperience. com/recipes/homemade-marzipan-masa- Sandy Hoexter: Flan (Almodrote pan/ de Berengena) from Claudia Roden’s The Book of Jewish Food. This recipe comes from Clara Raju: Malida: Bene Israeli Style the Turkish Sephardim in England. Based Sweet Pohe – India. There were three on classic Spanish tortilla (fritatta) which groups of Jews who settled in India. This is based on frying together vegetables dish containing flattened, dried rice pohe( and eggs. were brought by the or poha), coconut, jaggery, pomegranate Arabs to Spain and Italy. The addition of seeds and other ingredients, served by the the cheese to the tortilla made it a dairy Bene Israeli Jews, could be shared with dish to be used on the Sabbath. During the both Hindu and Muslim neighbors. Inquisition, eating this dish gave away the Christian converts (conversos) still attached Liane Rosenblatt: Persian Haroset. to their Jewish faith, and they were thrown From Jewish Holiday Kitchen, by Joan into prison. The classic dish consists of Nathan. The haroset includes dates, eggplant, eggs, bread, and pistachio nuts, almonds, raisins, . The Turkish Sephardic who went apples, pomegranates, orange, to England substituted cheddar for kash- banana, wine or juice, cider vinegar, kaval, which I did as well. cayenne peppers, cloves, cardamom, and . Barbara Karth: Sumac Chicken and Rice with Barberries and Pine Nuts, an Iranian Angela Silverman: Spanish Inquisition dish. Matzas. From A Drizzle of Honey: Lives and Recipes of Spain’s Secret Jews, by David Dianne King: Chicken with Tamarind, Gitlitz and Linda Kay Davidson. “This rec- Apricots, and Chipotle Sauce. A recipe ipe is recreated from records of the Spanish provided by Pati Jinich at www.jewish- Inquisition, based on reports by neighbors foodexperience.com/recipes/chicken- who reported them as suspiciously Jewish tamarind-apricotes-chipotlesauce/. Some behavior.” Sephardim Jews went to Mexico and other Spanish-speaking countries such as Ar- Pamela Simon: Olive Oil Chocolate Mousse (Mousse au gentina. The Sephardim spoke Ladino, a chocolate et à Huile d’Olive). This is a non-dairy dessert from Judeo-Spanish language, sometimes called Ana Bensadón, that complies with the laws of . The literary Spanish, based on Old Spanish, recipe is found in Quiches, , and : My Search which made communication with the local populations in for Jewish Cooking, by Joan Nathan. Sephardic Jews expelled the new world easier. A few of Mexico’s famous specialties, from Spain and Portugal brought cocoa beans to Bayonne, dishes such as Bunuelos, the deep-fried balls of cheese- France, where they developed a skilled chocolate trade. infused dough, originated as a Sephardi No photo available Hanukkah dish. The oil used to fry these savory snacks was originally meant to Amy Snyder: Eggplant Salad and Marinated Olives. invoke the miracle of the oil. Today, there Eggplant was brought to the Middle East are about 40,000 Jews in Mexico, about and Africa by Arab traders 600 Common 37.000 of them in Mexico City. Era. However, earlier carvings of eggplant have been found in two ancient Greek cit- Claudia Kousoulas: Beef Meatballs with ies, Phrygia and Iassos, now within Turkish . (Boun digaz aux Oignons.) A Mo- borders. Amy remembers her grandmother roccan dish from The Scent of Orange Blos- making a salad with raw diced eggplant soms: The Sephardic Cuisine of Morocco, by mixed with other ingredients. Kitty Morse and Danielle Mamane. Olive is one of the seven species named Tina Lima: Almond . Served in the Torah: wheat, barley, grape, fig, in India, among many other countries. As pomegranate, olive, and date. If exiled Jews a side note, Indians didn’t drink tea until couldn’t plant a tree on the 15th day of She- after the arrival of the British. vat, they tried to eat fruits from the trees found in the Land of Israel. Tu B’Shevat Judy Newton: Masapan (Homemade Marzipan). Spain is is sometimes celebrated now as an Israeli the birthplace of marzipan and was first created in the 15th Arbor Day, with an ecological emphasis on century. Jews adopted this candy as a Jewish dessert after replenishing the earth.

CHoW Line 3 Upcoming Events Cultivating America’s Gardens Smithsonian Folklife Festival June 27-July 1 & July 4-8 on the Mall A Smithsonian Libraries, Smithsonian Gardens and Ar- The Smithsonian Folklife Festival, established in 1967, hon- chives of American Gardens exhibition ors contemporary living cultural traditions and celebrates those who practice and sustain them. Produced annually Through May 18 by the Smithsonian Center for Folklife and Cultural Heri- Smithsonian Libraries Exhibition Gallery tage, the Festival has featured participants from all 50 states National Museum of American History, 1 West and more than 100 countries. 14th St and Constitution Ave NW, Washington, DC 20001 The 2018 festival will feature the cultures of Armenia and Catalonia. On July 8, celebrate women artists at an evening concert tribute to the Sisterfire music festivals that Better Said than Done Roadwork produced in D.C. from 1982 to 1989. Daytime Coming up in June are two food-related storytelling presentations will include poetry, spoken word, and reflec- themes. tions from activists on the fortieth anniversary of Road- Better Said Than Done, Inc. is a community of professional work. https://festival.si.edu/ storytellers based in Fairfax, VA. They produce themed, true, personal storytelling shows throughout Northern Vir- Readings ginia and beyond, featuring experienced performers from The New Yorker: The Travel & Food Issue, April 23. their team of spoken word storytellers. With stories rang- There are some interesting articles in this issue, such as ing in length from 7-10 minutes, the shows are energetic, “Bean Freaks: On the hunt for an elusive legume,” by Bur- engaging, and highly entertaining. They may be funny, khard Bilger and “The Maraschino Mogul,” by Ian Frazier. poignant, silly, or unbelievable, but they will convince audiences that life is better in the telling. Felice Caspar forwarded a link to an article about Frank www.bettersaidthandone.com E. Buttolph, the woman who collected more than 25,000 menus that are now housed in The New York City Library. Storytelling at the Lake: Born in Mansfield, Pennsylvania, in 1844, she was first June 20 – Top Chef: stories of dining, wining, and winning known as Frances Editha Buttles. (or trying to). www.atlasobscura.com/articles/frank-buttolph-menu- Lake Anne Coffee House & Wine Bar, 1612 Washington new-york-public-library-collection Plaza, Reston, VA 20190 (703) 481-9766 www.lakeannecoffeehouse.com 6:00 p.m. Doors Open 7:00 p.m. Show Free Admission How to Post to the CHoW Google Group Full drink and dinner menu available for purchase Seating is on a first come, first served basis. The CHoW-DC Google Group is for communicating culinary history matters ONLY. It is not intended to be Last Saturdays at The Auld Shebeen (Downstairs): an open forum. June 30, 2018 – S’Mores: stories about camping, food, and wanting more. You must be a member of CHoW, and your email ad- 3971 Chain Bridge Rd. Fairfax, VA 22030 dress must be in the CHoW database. 6:00 p.m. Doors Open 7:00 p.m. Show $15 at the Door (cash preferred) It’s important to remember that if you change your email $10 Advance Tickets at www.bettersaidthandone.com address, you need to inform the CHoW Membership

St. Nicolas Greek Church of Baltimore’s Folk Director so that it can be updated and you will continue Festival to receive messages and newsletters. June 7-10, noon to 10 p.m. Thursday and Sunday, or noon The easiest way to post a message to the Group is simply to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. 701 Ponca St. Baltimore, through an email. Here’s how. MD 21224 410-633-5020. Free admission • Open a new email www.greekfestival.org or www.stnicholasmd.org • In the address line or “To” box, enter Food service is available all day at the Vegetarian Cafe in [email protected] the large social hall of the church, and a variety of Greek • Enter a subject in the subject box specialty foods and desserts are available at the Greektown • Enter the text of your message Square and Event Center, which is within walking distance o NOTE: If you are announcing an event, please make sure of the church. you include all relevant information, plus a website or phone Free Food Demonstrations of preparing foods such as number for additional information. Keftedes, Dolmades, and with samples at the St. • Please sign your message as a courtesy to everyone. Nicholas Church’s main level, Greek School wing. • Add your email address for replies. http://stnicholasmd.org/churchlife.php?page=Folk • Send the message! DONE! Festival-Eats#boxes

4 CHoW Line BOOK REVIEW Prison Food in America By Erika Camplin Rowman & Littlefield, 2016. Hardback, $38, 140 pages

Like most topics prison-related, food Oklahoma City bomber, Terry Nich- is approached from two points of ols’s request for fresh food and whole view. Prisoners are there to be pun- grains. ished and don’t deserve decent food; or good food contributes to rehabilita- Another means of control are hunger tion. strikes. In 1917, suffragist Alice Paul leveraged her hunger strike to gain With all the talk about food cost and support for her cause. As a result of calories, it’s easy to overlook the fact his hunger strike, John Lennon’s killer, that we are free to choose what we eat. Mark David Chapman was transferred In prison, however, food is an element to a psychiatric unit. of control just as powerful as guards and bars. It marks passing time and To pursue rehabilitation, some prisons is one of the few sources of pleasure. offer culinary training, from kitchen And because of that, it is used to pun- work to gardens, farms, and animal ish, to self-define, and to trade. husbandry. Programs like the Insight Garden Program and others “are be- In Arizona, infamous sheriff, Joe ing recognized for multiple levels of Arpaio withheld meat from prisoners, effectiveness,” reducing recidivism, reserving hot dogs only for incarcer- developing self-control, and foster- ated military veterans. And, just as on ing community. And sometimes, they airplanes, prisoners request kosher grow so much produce that it can be meals, which often include more fresh donated to local food banks. fruit; except in prison, you have to follow-up by attending services. blast-chilled, carefully portioned, No book on prison food would be and re-purposed. The jargon is “re- complete without a final chapter on In all prisons, food becomes a tool for racking,” gleaning uneaten food to be final meals. Death row inmates can barter, but prisoners trading mayon- frozen and served again. request lobster and steak, but they are naise packets for phone privileges is most likely to get a simulacrum from small compared to the money to Some states allow wardens to keep the prison kitchen—a slab of fish or be made off feeding almost 2 million any money they save from their food chopped ground beef. Perhaps that’s inmates a year. Generating more than budget. Others have privatized prison why many ask for a fast food meal, not $34 billion in annual revenue, it’s a meal service, where more corners cut something made in the prison kitchen. business shot through with corrup- means more profit. The result is cheese tion. that won’t melt, cold day after day, and watered-down soda. We are regularly shocked by the high amount spent per year on inmates by But the control of food can be a dou- federal, state, and local correctional ble-edged knife. While most lawsuits facilities—averaging $30,286 nation- about prison food are thrown out of wide. But facilities provide extensive court, some have shaped prison food- service—housing, health care, and ways. Cases in 1979, 1981, and 1991 meals for a national population that affirmed that facilities must be run is larger than most American cities. in a way “compatible with the evolv- Claudia Kousoulas is an editor, writer, But Camplin points out, even though ing standards of decency that mark and educator whose topics include these costs are “shockingly high,” the progress of a maturing society.” architecture, urbanism, and culinary the cost per meal remains low. On In other court cases, those standards history. Her blog is average, the $1.85 per meal hasn’t have allowed vermin-ridden food, appetiteforbooks.wordpress.com increased in 14 years. Most food is two meals a day, and did not uphold

CHoW Line 5 DIRECTIONS TO THE MAY 6 MEETING

Trinity United Methodist Church (Langley Hall) 1205 Dolley Madison Boulevard McLean, VA 22101

From Interstate 495 (Beltway): Take Rt. 123 East Exit #46B, approximately 2 miles towards McLean. Trinity UMC is east of Old Dominion Drive on the right side of Dolley Madison Blvd. at Buchanan Street.

From George Washington Parkway: Take Rt. 123 West towards McLean. Drive about 1.7 miles. (You will pass the Central Intelligence Agency on your right.) Trinity UMC will be on your left.

From Washington, D.C., over Chain Bridge: Stay in the right lane of the bridge. After crossing the Potomac River, turn right at the signal light. That is Rt. 123. Drive 3 miles (you will pass the Central Intelligence Agency), and the church will be on your left.

Parking: Free.

Metro: Take the Silver Line to the McLean Station (1824 Dolley Madison). From there, you would need to take a taxi 3 miles to the church.

Langley Enter here Hall

I-495 Beltway

GW Parkway

O Trinity United Methodist Church Chain Bridge

GW Parkway

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