INDEX

A beef, 44–45 kasha varnishkes, 293–294 aakode, 422 beets, 46 kichel, 307–308 aam ka achar, 16 birds, 52 Kiddush, 310 Afghanistan, 50–51, 105, 310, 416–418, blintzes, 57 kishke, 313–315 434–435 borscht, 64–66 kitniyot, 316–317 ajin (Middle Eastern dough), 565 brisket, 74 klops, 318–319 ajwain, 47 brit milah, 75–76 knaidel, 319–321 Akiva, Rabbi, 345 cabbage, 85 knish, 322–324 alcohol, 20–21, 45–46, 309, 313, 436, carob, 90 kreplach, 329–330 511, 517, 534, 604, 623. See also carp, 91–93 kuchen, 335–337 wine carrots, 94 kugel, 338–341 Aleichem, Sholem, 181, 217, 233, 322, caulifl ower, 95 latke, 352–355 352, 485, 495, 516, 521, 599 charoset, 105 lekach, 359–361 Algeria, 115, 348–349, 584 cheese, 109 lentils, 363 allspice, 37 cheesecake, 110–112 liver, 363–365 almond, 244, 302, 310, 376–377, chicken, 118 lokshen, 367–369 385–386, 388, 497, 589, 593, 610 chicken soup, 120–121 mandelbrot, 385–386 almond paste, 273–274, 282–283, chickpeas, 122 mandlen, 386–387 373–375 cholent, 127–129 matza, 394 aloo bondas, 61–62 chremsel, 131 matza brei, 397–398 Alsace, 92, 129–131, 200–201, 203, citron, 181 milchig, 404 208–209, 341–342 compote, 139 miltz, 406 amalou, 21, 302 cumin, 150 mishloach manot, 409 amaretti, 374 dumplings, 166–168 mushrooms, 413 Amkhanitski, Hinde, 141, 168 eggs, 170–171 mustard, 414 amphorae, 617 eingemacht, 174–175 nusstortes, 420–421 anise, 20–21, 59–60, 303 engagements, 610 onions, 428 anniversary, of death, 621–622 etrogs, for Sukkot, 180 oublie, 431 apfelschalet, 203 falafel, 183 Passover, 442 Apicius, 169, 201, 211, 441, 500 farfel, 187 pastida, 447–448 appakarai, 18 fava beans, 191 pickles, 458–459 appetizers, 205–206, 280, 403–404, 411 fennel, 192–193 Pidyon HaBen, 460 apple, 104, 203, 468–469, 506–507, 530, fl anken, 202 pletzl, 470–472 563–565 fl uden, 203–205 pletzlach, 472–473 aqras kibbeh, 306 forspeis, 205–206 plums, 476 Arabs, 412, 443–444, 501, 572, 614, 632 fricassee, 207–208 p’tcha, 485–486 ariyat, 621 frimsels, 209 Purim, 489–490 armon, 116 fritters, 212 radishes, 494–495 arooq bil riz, 22 gedempte fl eisch, 218–219 raisins, 497 ar- rubb, 22 COPYRIGHTEDgefi lte fi sh, 219–223 MATERIALreshinke, 499 artichoke, 409 glatt meat, 226 rice, 502 arucha, 544 goose, 233 rice pudding, 503 arus, 28 gribenes, 239 Rosh Hashanah, 507 Arzoni, Meir, 109 hamantaschen, 249 rugelach, 509–510 ashishim, 363 Hanukkah, 256–257 rye, 511–512 Ashkenazim. See also specifi c countries helzel, 261–262 sabbath bread, 97 by name herring, 263 sauerkraut, 526–527 almonds, 13 honey, 265 schalet, 529–530 apples, 19–20 Hoshanah Rabbah, 267 scharfe fi sh, 530–531 apricots, 20 in Israel, 276 schav, 531–532 aufruf, 28 kasha, 292 schmaltz, 532–534

bbindex.inddindex.indd 639639 77/23/10/23/10 112:172:17 PPMM 640 F index

Ashkenazim. (Continued) Bar Kokhba rebellion, 345, 587 betrothal, 609–610 schnapps, 534 barley, 47, 235–236, 294–295, 330–331, beverages, 136–138, 171–172, 451–452, Seder, 540 614 517–518, 549, 578–581 Shavuot, 550 bar Yochai, Rabbi Shimon, 345–346, Bialystock, Poland, 49 sour cream, 556–557 622 bird, 487–488, 532. See also chicken; sponge cake, 561 basturma, 449 duck; eggs; goose; pigeon; turkey strudel, 563–565 beans, 29–30, 128, 151, 365–366, gribenes, 238–239 stuffed cabbage, 86–87 552–553 helzel, 261–262 sugar, 568 bedikah, 58 kosher, 326–327 Sukkot, 569 beef. See also meatballs libatoportyu pastetom, 363 sweetbread, 571 brisket, 74–75, 144–146 schmaltz, 532–534 tea, 579–580 cholent, 128 schnitzel, 536–537 teiglach, 583–584 corned, 144–146 birth ceremonies, 547 Tisha b’Av, 588 deckel, 155 biscotti, 54, 385–386 tomatoes, 590 fl anken, 202 blessings, 55 tongue, 591 gedempte fl eisch, 218–219 bletlach, 56–57 treibern, 592–593 glatt, 226–227 bloater, 262 Tu b’Shevat, 593 goulash, 234–235 blood, 112, 326 turkey, 595–596 hot dogs, 268 Bnai Mikra, 515 tzimmes, 598–600 khalia, 300–301 bobota, 32 udder, 601 kharcho, 301–302 Bogart, Humphrey, 635 walnut, 605 kishke, 313–315 bogo de bana, 571 weddings, 611–612 kolichel, 325 börek, 63–64, 215 whitefi sh, 616 kouclas, 328–329 botteh, 586 wine, 618–619 kufta, 337–338 boymlteig, 581, 582 yahrzeit, 621–622 liver, 364 braided challah, 97–98 Yom Kippur, 626–627 Loof, 369 Brandeis, David, 249 zemmel, 632–633 lungen, 371 brandy, fi g, 196 Asia, 558–560, 562, 579 miltz, 406 Bratislava, 313 asida, 258 pastrami, 450 bratwurst, 527–528 aubergine, 172 sauerbraten, 525–526 bread. See also challah; matza aufruf, 497 shank, 548 bagaleh, 34–35 Aunt Babette’s, 140. See also specifi c sweetbread, 571 bagel, 35–36 foods by name tongue, 590–591 baking, 71–72 Austria, 27–28, 152–153, 311–313, tzimmes, 600 bialy, 49–50 341–342, 478–479, 536–537, 563, udder, 601 bollo, 59–60 632–633 beer, 309, 511 boyo, 68–70 avatiach, 608–609 beets, 64–66, 174–175, 334–335, 508, dabo, 151 avicas, 43 568 fatoot made with, 189–191 awaze, 47, 48 beigel, 35 fl ammekueche, 200 Axelrod, Wolf, 557 beignets, 634–635 grinding grain, 70–71 Azerbaijan, 337–338, 473–474 Bein Hametzarim, 586 Hamotzi, 254 belehat, 55 hoska, 267 B ben David, Anan, 514–515 injera, 274–275 baba bi tamir, 317–318 benedictions, 52–53, 254, 280, 308–310 kaak, 283–284 baby naming, 76 Bene Israel, 121, 303, 381 kada, 284–285 bagels, 49, 371 ben Kalonymus, Kalonymus, 352, 367, khachapuri, 299–300 baked beans, 552–553 444 khobz, 302–303 bakeries, 394–397, 417 benschen, 52 kimochdun, 310 Balkans, 9, 108, 571 Ben Zakhar, 547 kipfel, 311–313 Baltic Sea, 262 berbere, 620 kubaneh, 331–332 banana republic, 39 berches, 98–99 laffa, 344–345 barbari, 415 Berliners, 566 lahmajin, 347–348 barbecue, 75 Beshalach reading, 259, 594 lahuh, 349–350 barches, 98–99 Beta Israel, 554 lángos, 351

bbindex.inddindex.indd 640640 77/23/10/23/10 12:1712:17 PMPM index G 641

lavash, 355 cakes, 58–59, 101, 160, 356–357, iab, 272 malai, 380–381 359–361, 377–378, 388–389, ijeh, 272–273 melawah, 399–400 398–399, 420–421, 588–589, kaletzin, 285–286 mufl eta, 410–411 631–632, 635–636. See also coffee khachapuri, 299–300 naan, 415–416 cake kreplach, 329, 330 nan, 416–417 candied almonds, 15–16 kuchen, 337 non, 418–419 candied citron, 182 kugel, 341 overview, 70 candy, 126, 165–166, 235, 264, 376–377, labaneh, 344 pandericas, 436–437 472–473, 495–496, 556 latke, 352–355 pita, 466–468 canola, 317, 423 malai, 381 pletzl, 470–472 Carasso, Isaac, 625 masconod, 391–392 pogaca, 476–477 cardamom, 244, 303–304 papanash, 437–438 potatonik, 484–485 cardoons, 23 pasta, 444 pumpernickel, 486–487 Caro, Rabbi Joseph, 177, 447 pastelitos, 445 puri, 488 carp, 220, 221, 577 pastitsio, 446 revanadas de parida, 500 carrot cake, 94 pogaca, 476–477 roscas, 504–505 carrots, 473, 506, 598 in polsterzipfel dough, 478 rye, 511–512 casseroles, 10–12, 27–28, 173–174, 189, quajado, 492 Sabbath, 513 378, 492, 529, 545–546, 573–574 sfoungato, 545–546 seor (starter dough), 542–543 cassia, 132–133 tortelli, 591 Shavuot, 550 Catskills, 66–67 chelow, 242 types of, 72 cayenne, 124 chelow kabab, 296 zemmel, 632–633 celeriac, 18, 95 chemah, 83 bread dumplings, 321 celery, 18–19, 254, 290–291 cherries, 313, 376, 563, 604 bread wheat, 613 Cel-Ray Tonic, 95, 541 chicken Breakstone brothers, 110 Central Europe. See specifi c countries alboronia, 10–11 breba, 196 by name; specifi c dishes by name avgolemono, 29 brides, 28, 570–571 Chagall, Marc, 228, 262 budino di pollo, 77 brinza de vaci, 437 Chag ha’Banot, 257 doro wot, 620 brisket, 144–146 Chair of Elijah, 76 falsche fi sh, 185–186 brit, 499 challah, 267, 507, 626 fesenjan, 193–194 brittle, honey- nut, 556 chametz, 315–316 fricassees, 207–208 brit Yizchak, 76 chamutzta, 333 gundi, 241–242 broilers, 119 charchavina, 390 helzel, 261–262 Brownstein, Harry, 371 Chasidim, 181, 185, 187, 218, 226, 316, keftes, 298–299 brsh (borscht), 64–65 320, 360, 586 liver, 364 buckwheat, 56, 292, 293–294, 316, chatan’s tish, 610 paprikás, 439–440 437 chaykhana, 579 schmaltz, 532, 534 Bukharan foods. See Uzbekistan chazeret, 265–266, 390 schnitzel, 537 bulgur, 41–42, 47, 258–259, 305–306, cheese. See also specifi c cheeses by tabyeet, 572–573 333, 572 name weddings, 611–612 buraniya, 11 almodrote, 11–12 Yom Kippur, 626 burga, 63 bichak fi lling, 51 chicken soup, 320, 329 butter, 361–362, 391, 581–582 blintzes, 57 chickpeas, 61, 183–185, 230–231, butter cake, 388 bolos de queso, 59 241–242, 257–258, 269–271, 299, butter cookies, 67–68, 224–225 bougatsa, 68 344, 547 buttercream, 160 boyos de queso, 69–70 chicory, 390 buttermilk, 272, 405 bulemas, 78 chilies, 47–48, 259–260, 263–264, calsones, 87 268–269, 438–439, 452, 537–538 C custard, 201 China, 166–168, 367–369, 442, 578 cabbage, 130, 288–289, 526–527, 563 fl ammekueche, 200 chocolate, 160, 171–172, 374, 377, cacao, 125, 602 fl uden, 203–205 388–389, 433, 602 cacti, 516–517 gnocchi, 227–228 cholent, 529–530 cafe de bano, 571 gombóc, 230 chopped liver, 364–365 Cairo, Egypt, 490 gomo, 230 choucroute garnie, 527

bbindex.inddindex.indd 641641 77/23/10/23/10 12:1712:17 PMPM 642 F index

chrain, 265 corn, 236, 380–381 doro wot, 620 cilantro, 115, 537–538 corn cakes, 398–399 dough, 7, 151, 274–275, 368–369, cinnamon, 534–536, 633–634 Cornfeld, Lilian, 142, 183–184 542–543, 564, 565, 581–583, 623, circumcision, 75–76 cornmeal, 32, 143–144, 383–385, 398– 634. See also bread; dumplings; citron (etrog), 104, 178–182 399, 437–438 fritters; yeast dough citrus, 179 cornstarch pudding, 379–380 doughnuts, 51, 545, 565–566, 627–628 clatite cu dulceata, 433 cotoletta alla Milanese, 536 doves, 460 cocida madrileno, 250 cottage cheese, 109 Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray Tonic, 95, 541 cockfi ghting, 117 cow, 44, 223–224, 226–227, 272, 405, dried fruit, 31–32, 134, 196, 348–349, cocoa, 125–126 437 475–476, 480, 577 coconut, 374, 381–382, 432, 497–498 cracklings, 238–239, 363, 534 dried meat, 449–450 coconut cream, 135 cream cheese, 109–110, 111, 371, dried mint, 409 coconut milk, 135 509–510 drinks, 136–138, 171–172, 451–452, cod, 135–136 cream puff dough, 634 517–518, 549, 578–581 coffee cake, 21, 33–34, 80, 137, 324–325, crepes, 56, 432–434 duck, 193–194, 364 335–337, 341–342, 505, 534–536 Crete, 105 dumplings coffeehouses, 136, 137 Croly, Jane Cunningham, 141, 208 for adafi na, 1 cold cuts, 28 croquettes, 183–185, 305–307 cholent kugel, 129 common wheat, 542, 613 crushing wheels, 426–427 csipetke, 148 compositum, 138 crusty rice, 585–586 einlauf, 175–176 confi t d’oie, 233 csipetke, 216 fritters, 212 conservatism of cuisine, 192 cucumber, 278–279, 458–459, 578 galuska, 216–217 Conversos, 10, 51, 125, 250–251, 436, cultured milk, 355–356, 556–557 gnocchi, 227–228 602 Curaçao, 55, 105–106 gombóc, 229–230 cookies curd cheese, 73–74, 108, 109, 272 gundi, 241–242 biscocho, 53–54 cured meats, 129–131, 144–146, 449– halkes, 244–245 boterkoeke, 67–68 450, 520–521, 528 khenaghi, 304 by country, 312 currants, 496 klops, 319 ghraybeh, 224–225 custard, 110–112, 201–202, 215–216, 274 knaidel, 319–321 hadgi badah, 244 Czech Republic, 267, 321–322, 324–325, knedlíky, 321–322 impade, 273–274 436 kouclas, 328–329 kaab el ghazal, 282–283 kubbeh, 332–335 kaak, 283–284 D kugel, 338 kichel, 307–308 dabo kolo, 151 manti, 387–388 kindli, 310–311 dacher, 99 papanash, 437–438 kipfel, 311–313 dafi nah, 1 pirogen, 464–465 klaicha, 317–318 dairy, 256, 327, 404–405, 550. See also samsa, 524 lebkuchen, 356–357 specifi c dairy foods by name schalet, 530 ma’amoul, 372–373 dampokht, 434 shlishkes, 553 macaroon, 373–375 Danish Jewish Cookies (Jodekager), 68 spaetzle, 557–558 makroud, 378–379 daragaluska, 216 varenikes, 603–604 mandelbrot, 385–386 dates, 104–105, 318, 372, 378–379, 507 durum wheat, 258–259, 541–542, 613 oublie, 431 datsher, 99 pfefferkuchen, 456 death, 544–545, 621–622 E polsterzipfel, 478–479 debla, 256 egg noodles, 87, 148, 187–188, 208–209, raricha, 497–498 deda’s puri, 488 367–369, 443, 491 reshinke, 499 degradation, 102 eggplant, 3, 8, 10–12, 31, 88, 231, roscas, 504–505 delicatessens, 145, 450, 521, 528 242–244, 375–376 rugelach, 509–510 Denmark, 67–68 eggs, 442, 521, 540, 545, 587. See also sfratti, 546 derlanger, 395 omelets; specifi c dishes by name shirini, 552 derma, stuffed, 313–315 Egypt travados, 592 desayuno, 68–70, 77–78, 210, 505, 570 black- eyed peas, 55 zimtsternen, 633–634 devash, 155, 264–265 blehat, 55–56 Copts, 213 dibs kharoob, 91 coriander, 142–143 coriander, 131–132, 142–143 distillation, 20–21, 430, 436, 505–506 dukkah, 164–165

bbindex.inddindex.indd 642642 77/23/10/23/10 12:1712:17 PMPM index G 643

falafel, 183–185 fl atbread, 344–345, 347–351, 399–400, G ful medames, 213–214 415–419, 466–468, 470–472, 476, G6PD defi ciency, 183, 191 kanafeh, 286–288 488, 550–551. See also matza Gabay, Elias, 323 melokhia, 400–401 Fleischmann, Charles Louis, 623, galaktopita zarka, 215 pigeons, 460 624 Galicia, 244–245 Purim Katan, 490 fl eishidik borscht, 66 game birds, 491 radishes, 494 fl eyshik, 202–203 Gaon, Amram, 4, 24, 290 seor, 543 fl our, 70–71, 121–122, 174, 393, 395, Gaon, Saadia, 4, 515 sugar, 567 502, 511, 542–543, 563, 570 garlic, 6, 289–290, 316, 351, 521 watermelon, 608–609 foglietti, 444 gedempte brustfl eisch, 74 eier kichel, 307–308 foie gras, 364 gefi lte fi sh, 92–93, 185–186, 266 eier un schmaltz, 171 folar, 206 gefuelten hechden, 219–220 einkorn, 612 foot gelatin, 485–486 gehakte eier, 171 Elul, 239 foot soup, 450–451, 498–499 gehakte herring, 205, 263 emmer, 542, 613 forbidden fat, 112–113 gehakte leber, 364–365 empanadas, 63–64 force-fed waterfowl, 364 gelatin, 485–486 endive, 122–123, 390 forshmak, 263 gelato, 549 engagement, 609–610 forshpil, 28 Gellis, Isaac, 156 England, 67, 113, 137, 259, 262, 270, fowl, 51–52 gelt, 255 422, 455, 463, 579 France, 127–129, 138–139, 200, gember bolussen, 59 Ethiopia, 11, 47–48, 138, 151, 272, 203–205, 207–208, 341–342, Georgia 274–275, 554, 620 430–431, 482, 529–530, 560, 568. adzhapsandali, 3 etrog (citron), 194 See also Alsace bazha, 42 frankfurters, 267–268 cherry pastry, 285 F French fries, 455, 483 chizhipizhi, 125 faiglan (spiral challahs), 101 fresh cheese, 107–108, 109, 223–224 gozinaki, 235 farfelach, 187 fresh milk, 405 halek, 106 farfel torten, 204 fresh sausage, 527–528 kada, 284–285 fasts, 587, 611, 626–627 frikeh, 614 khachapuri, 299–300 fat, 532–534, 581 frimsel, 368 khalia, 300–301 fava beans, 42–43, 183–185, 213–214, frittelle de riso per Hanukkah, 212–213 kharcho, 301–302 344 fritters khenaghi, 304 favism, 183 bimuelo, 51 lobio, 365–366 feasts, 489, 544 bolos de queso, 59 mchadi, 398–399 fennel, 17 bonda, 61–62 pkhali, 470 fenugreek, 263–264 doughnuts, 162–163 puri, 488 Ferber, Edna, 137, 335, 420 falafel, 183–185 tkemali, 589–590 fermentation, 102, 274–275, 294–295, gulab jamun, 240–241 German Templers, 224 297, 355–356, 508–509, 617–618, ijeh, 272–273 Germany 623 lokma, 366–367 anisplätzchen, 17 festivals. See specifi c holidays by malpua, 382–383 aufl auf, 27–28 name pizzarelle, 469–470 aufschnitz, 28 feta, 609 Fromenchenko, Eliyahu, 126 braided loaves, 97–99 fi la. See phyllo fruit, 103–107, 280, 315, 337, 348–349, Bundt cake, 80 fi nocchio, 192–193 436, 548–549, 593. See also carrots, 94 First Roman War, 587 specifi c fruits by name coffee cake, 137 fi sh, 6, 205, 219–223, 268–269, fruit butter, 361–362 cookbooks, 140 298–299, 454–456, 507, 530–531, fruit honey, 264–265 doughnut, 162 577–578. See also specifi c fi sh by frumenty, 259 einbren, 174 name ftut, 189–191 einlauf, 175–176 fi sh and chips, 455 fullung, 230–232 essig fl eisch, 177–178 fi sh gelee, 91–92 fund-raising community cookbooks, farfel, 187–188 fi sh yukh, 220 140–141 fricassee, 207 fi snoga, 485 funnel cake, 631–632 frimsel, 208–209 fl aky pastry, 7–8, 280–281, 581–582 furn, 71–72, 347 gedempte fl eisch, 218–219

bbindex.inddindex.indd 643643 77/23/10/23/10 12:1712:17 PMPM 644 F index

Germany (Continued) arroz, 23 gulab jamun, 241 gefi lte fi sh, 219–223 avgolemono, 28–29 halva, 246 gruenkern, 239–240 avicas, 29–30 kasha varnishkes, 293 hamantasch, 248–250 babanatza, 31–32 keftes, 299 helzel, 261–262 bougatsa, 68 kuku, 343 kichel, 307–308 carp, 93 latke, 352–355 klop, 318–319 cheesecake, 110–112 Purim, 490 knaidel, 319–321 galaktoboureko, 215–216 radishes, 495 kuchen, 335–337 ojaldre, 424 sufganiyah, 566 kugel, 338–341 pastitsio, 446 varenikes, 604 lebkuchen, 356–357 patsas, 451 zvingous, 634 lekach, 359–361 pepitada, 452 haricot beans, 43 mandelbrot, 385–386 pita, 466–467 harisa, 190 marble cake, 388–389 reshicas, 54 Hasmoneans, 255 nusstorte, 420–421 roscas, 505 Havdalah ceremony, 45–46, 182, 309, pfefferkuchen, 456 sfoungato, 545–546 516 potatoes, 482 taramasalata, 577–578 hawaij, 190 potato pancakes, 353 tiganite, 585 hefeteig, 581, 582–583 pumpernickel, 486 trahanas, 295–296 heimish, 244 Purim Katan, 490 travado, 592 Heine, Heinrich, 129, 338 sauerbraten, 525–526 wine, 617–618 hellou, 264 sausage, 527–528 Yom Kippur, 627 henna ceremony, 15 schalet, 530 zvingous, 634 herbs, 418, 441, 517, 572. See also scharfe fi sh, 530–531 green beans, 43, 188–189 specifi c herbs by name schnecken, 534–536 green kern (gruenkern), 239–240 herring, 205 seltzer, 541 green onion, 428, 529 Hillel sandwich, 325–326 spaetzle, 557–558 grieving, 545 hilula, 621–622, 628 sufganiyah, 565–566 grindstones, 426–427 hindquarter, 592–593 zemmel, 632–633 grocery stores, 156–157 Hirschfeld, Al, 533 zimtstern, 633–634 grooms, 28, 571 hkaka, 585 zwetschgenkuchen, 635–636 Grossinger, Jennie, 512 holidays, 99, 159, 162, 308–310. See also Gertner, Herman, 152–153 guinea fowl, 594, 595, 596 specifi c holidays by name gesztenyepure, 116 gundel palacsinta, 433 Holland, 59, 67–68, 162–164, 262, 437, ghee, 83 552–553 gheimeh, 304 H Holle, 98 ghiveci, 242–244 Haam, Ahad, 513 Hollekreisch, 98 gingerbread, 356–357 Hadassah, 79, 80–81 Honduras, 39 ginger candy, 472 Haggadah, 4, 138, 441, 442 honey, 101, 235, 247–248, 356–357, gizzard, 487–488 halek/haleq, 105 359–361, 472–473, 507, 546, 556, globi/globuli, 211 halloumi cheese, 108–109 583–584, 598–600 goat milk, 73–74, 108, 194, 405 halva/halvah, 576, 588 horehound, 389, 390 gobbi, 90 Haman’s ear (oznei Haman), 490 horseradish, 390 The Goldbergs sitcom, 220, 222, 354 haminados, 2, 206, 251 Hoshanah Rabbah, 84, 120, 329, 569 Goldfaden, Avrom, 293, 497 Hamotzi, 280 hot dog, 528 Goodman, Augustus, 293 hamoustah, 333 How to Cook in Palestine, 277 goose, 170, 257, 261, 363–364, 521, 532 hand matza, 394–396, 442 huevos de Haman, 206 Grace After Meals (Birkhat Hamazon), handstone, 71 huevos haminados, 2, 206, 251, 252–254 52–53 Handwerker, Nathan, 267–268 huevos kon keso, 210 grains, 17–18, 47, 70–71, 128, 245–246, Hanukkah hummus, 122 294–295, 297, 333. See also specifi c apples, 20 Hungary grains by name bimuelos, 51 aranygaluska, 21 Granada, 490 brisket, 74 chestnut puree, 116 grapes, 4–5, 21, 22, 543, 617–619 bulemas, 78 csipetke, 148 Greece goose, 233 delkel, 158–159 ajada, 6 gribenes, 239 Dobos torte, 160

bbindex.inddindex.indd 644644 77/23/10/23/10 12:1712:17 PMPM index G 645

fasírozott, 188 pilau, 461–463 pasta, 444–445 fl uden, 204 rice, 501 pasticcio, 445–446 galuska, 216–217 rice pudding, 503 pastitsio, 446 gombóc, 229–230 singara, 555 pinzette, 464 goulash, 234–235 ingberlach, 175, 472 pizzarelle, 469–470 káposzta, 288–289 injera, 151, 620 polpette, 478 kindli, 310–311 Inquisition, Spanish, 1, 10 quadrucci, 491 lángos, 351 The International Jewish Cook Book, risotto, 503–504 lecsó, 357–358 27, 360 salami, 520–521 lekvar, 361–362 intestines, 313–315 scacchi, 529 libatoportyu pastetom, 363 Iran, 415–416 sfratto, 546 makosh, 377–378 Iraq, 16–17, 81, 244, 254, 283–284, spinach, 560 nut torte (diós torta), 421 317–318, 332–335, 344–345, 516, sponge cake, 561 palacsinta, 432–434 572–573, 585–586 teiglach, 583 pálinka, 436 Isaac, Erich, 134 tomatoes, 590 paprika, 438–439 Israel. See also specifi c foods/dishes by tortelli, 591 paprikás, 439–440 name pite, 468–469 bread, 70–72 J pogácsa, 477–478 cookbooks, 142 jaggery, 18 salami, 521 Lag b’Omer, 346 jam, 174–175, 249, 478–479 shlishkes, 553 Mimouna, 408 Jefferson, Thomas, 455, 590 sholet, 129 salt, 522–523 jellied calves feet, 485–486 strudel, 562–565 Tisha b’Av, 586–587 jellied carp, 91–92 hyssop (za’atar), 629–630 Tu b’Shevat, 593 jelly doughnuts, 565–566 wine, 616–619 Jennie June’s American Cookery Book, I Yom Ha’atzmaut, 626 141, 208 Iberia, 176–177, 206, 436–437. See also Isserles, Rabbi Moses, 98, 256, 404, jerbeau, 204 specifi c countries by name 447, 523, 540, 611 Jerusalem, 402–403 ic pilav, 462 issik non, 419 Jewish Cookery, 140. See also specifi c idiyappam, 18 Italy dishes by name Independence Day, Israel, 626 artichokes, 24 The Jewish Criterion newspaper, 184, India biscotti, 385 467 aloo makalla, 16 bollo, 60 The Jewish Encyclopedia, 249, 472, appam, 17 bomba, 60–61 485 arook, 22 budino, 76–77 The Jewish Examiner Prize Kosher bananas, 38 buricche, 81–82 Recipe Book, 204 bhaji, 48–49 calsones, 87 Jewish Guardian, 100 biryani, 53 caponata, 88 The Jewish Home Beautiful, 509 bonda, 61–62 cardoons, 90 The Jewish Manual, 140. See also chickpeas, 121 celery, 95 specifi c dishes by name dal, 151–152 chambaliya, 101 jiben halloum cheese, 108–109 fritters, 212 chestnut charoset, 106 Jodekager (Danish Jewish Cookies), 68 ghee (clarifi ed butter), 83 crostata, 147–148 Jordan almonds, 15 gulab jamun, 240–241 fennel, 192 Joseph, Rabbi Jacob, 476 halba, 263–264 fricassee, 207 Josephus, 587 halva, 246 fritters, 212–213 Joyva Corporation, 576 kheer, 303–304 gnocchi, 227–228 Judith, 256 lentils and rice, 412–413 Haman’s ear, 247–248 jujubes, 348 mahmoosa, 376 hamin, 252 malida, 381–382 honey cakes, 359 K malpua, 382–383 impade, 273–274 kaak, 54 mujaddara, 411–413 macaroon, 373–375 kabaluli, 488 nargesi, 418 masconod, 391–392 kabli palau, 435 padhar, 432 minestra, 409 kadayif, 286–288 panir, 437 pancakes, 352 kaffeeklatsch, 335

bbindex.inddindex.indd 645645 77/23/10/23/10 12:1712:17 PMPM 646 F index

Kaiser roll, 633 sausage, 528 Libya, 268–269, 282–283, 375–376, 584 kakosh, 377–378 wine, 618–619 lime, 134, 186 kale, 138 kouclas, 1 liquor kali, 614 koyletsh, 99 arak, 20–21 kallappam, 18 Kramer, Bertha F., 80, 140. See also kirsch, 313 Kander, Lizzie Black, 80, 141, 221. See Aunt Babette’s pálenka, 436 also The Settlement Cook Book krepish, 329 Sabra, 517 kapama, 244 kreplach/krepl, 120–121, 464–465 schnapps, 534 kapparot, 626 kubaneh, 281 vishniak, 604 Karaim (Karaites), 515 kugel, 484–485, 530 Lithuania, 99 kariskik komposto, 549 kugel yerushalmi, 339 lokshen bretl, 367–368 karpas, 18, 103, 523, 540, 629–630 Kurds, 259, 333 loomi, 134 kashk, 79 kutach, 79, 294–296 Lubavitch, 181 kashkaval cheese, 109 kutach ha’Bavli, 295 Lubin, Charles W., 111 Katz, Joseph, 119 kvas, 46 lulav, 153 kaveyos di haman, 195 kvater, 76 lung, 226, 371, 506 kibbeh nayeh, 305 kvaterin, 76 lungi, 90 kibbutzim, 276 Luria, Rabbi Isaac, 540 Kiddush, 280, 618 L kielbasa, 528 lacto-fermentation, 458–459, 508, 526, M kipfel, 509 528 Maccabees, 255 kipper, 262 laffat kebab, 296 machine matza, 396–397, 398 kishke, 528 Lag b’Omer, 90–91, 622 Machzor Vitry, 506 kisir, 572 lakhsha, 442 madrino, 76 Kitab al- Tabikh, 11, 37, 133, 245, 296, lamb, 403, 450–451, 474, 499, 507, Maghreb. See specifi c countries by 306, 412, 597 550–551, 571, 575, 622–623 name; specifi c dishes by name Kitab Wasf al- Atima al- Mutada, 270 Larousse Gastronomique, 91–92, 431 Maimonides, Moses, 101–102, 120, kitke, 99 Las Frutus, 593 194, 228, 290, 291, 295, 316, 414, kitniyot, 423–424 latke, 109, 483 517 Klein, Stephen, 126 lauzinaq, 37 male children, 547 Klitteng, L. C., 152 lavash, 415, 417, 466, 488 Malin, Joseph, 455 knackwurst, 528 Lebanon, 31, 37, 287, 305, 411, 572–573 mamaliga, 380 kneter, 395 Lebedeff, Aaron, 289 mango, 16–17 kneydl, 319–321 leche fl an, 201–202 manna, 97 knishneh, 287 lechem, 70 mansanada, 19 Kohanim, 96 lechem achid, 72 marak adom, 333 Kol Bo, 256 lechem ha’panim, 70 marcheshet, 211 komos, 3–4 leek, 231 marketplaces, 277 kornbroyt, 511 legumes, 1, 151–152, 257–258, 316, 489. marmalade, 493 Kortadura de Fashadura, 15–16 See also specifi c legumes by name maror, 265–266, 290, 325 kosher leil hazohar, 76 marzipan, 14–15 beans, 43–44 Leket Yosher, 98, 356 masabacha, 270 birds, 52 lemon, 5–6, 28–29, 134, 178, 254, 537 masa escaldada, 634 bodek, 58 lentils, 25, 151, 257–258, 316, 411–412, maslin, 72, 511 cheese, 108 545, 587 matfuniya, 333 chicken, 119 lettuce, 390 matza, 131, 212, 308, 442. See also chocolate, 126 Levant. See specifi c countries by name; specifi c matza dishes by name dill pickles, 458–459 specifi c dishes by name matza balls, 319–321 glatt, 226–227 Levenson, Sam, 207 mayim, 606–607 hot dogs, 268 Leviathan, 199 mayim shelanu, 395 mashgiach, 392 Levitt, Adolph, 163 mayonnaise, 6 oil, 423 Levy, Esther, 140 mead, 264 plumba, 476 libation, water, 607 meat, 225–227, 257, 326–327, 404–405. salami, 521 libatoportyu pastetom, 363 See also specifi c dishes by name; salt, 326–327, 522 Liber de Coquina, 591 specifi c types of meat by name

bbindex.inddindex.indd 646646 77/23/10/23/10 12:1712:17 PMPM index G 647

meatballs, 9–10, 22, 188, 193–194, 208, Rosh Hashanah, 507 muerbeteig, 581–582 241–242, 318–319, 337–338, 478 Sabbath bread, 97 Mughals, 462 meat extract, 145 sambusak, 524 muhallabia, 379 meat loaf, 55–56, 188, 319 Seder, 4 Muslims, 25–26, 407–408, 412 meat patties, 289–290, 296, 298–299, Tisha b’Av, 588 337–338, 464 tishpishti, 589 N medias, 161 weddings, 612 na’ama, 287 Mediterranean. See specifi c countries mohel, 76 naan-e berenji, 552 by name; specifi c dishes by name mohn kichlach, 308 naan-e nokhodchi, 552 meerrettich, 265 Molly Goldberg Jewish Cookbook, 220, nahit, 122 Megillah reading, 246, 247 472 naming, baby, 76 Megillat Ester, 409 Mongolia, 387–388 Nash, Monroe, 222 mehl mester, 395 Montefi ore, Judith. See The Jewish Near East. See specifi c countries by melaveh malkah, 336, 516 Manual name; specifi c dishes by name melawah, 281 moretum, 12 The Neighborhood Cook Book, 80, meldado, 621 Morocco 440, 531, 535 melon, 148–149, 451–452, 507, 608– adafi na, 2–3 Nelson, Jimmy, 188 609 alboronia, 10–11 Netherlands. See Holland Memorial Day, Israeli, 626 almond milk, 14 New York City, 36, 49, 110–112, 156– Mendes Seixas, Gershom, 10 almond paste, 15 158, 171–172, 267–268, 323–324, menemen, 547 argan oil, 21–22 450, 512, 553 menorah, 255 brit milah, 76 New York Times, 35, 204, 209, 323 merenda, 257 cardoons, 90 neyyappam, 18 merguez, 528 carrots, 94 neyyapppa karal, 18 mesorah, 52, 595 chermoula, 115 ngozzamodi di pollo con polpotte, 207 metate, 70–71 couscous, 147 noche de Alhad, 399, 516 Mexico, 436 fi sh, 199 noni toki, 419 Meyer, Dr. Erna, 142, 277 Hanukkah, 256 noodles, 186–187, 194–195, 288, mhayara, 287 harira, 257–258 293–294, 338, 341, 346–347, Middle East. See specifi c countries by kaab el ghazal, 282–283 442–445. See also egg noodles name; specifi c dishes by name khobz, 302–303 northern Europe. See specifi c Midrash, 629 kouclas, 328–329 countries by name mikveh, 570–571 matbucha, 392–393 North Sea, 262 milch herring, 262 meshwi, 403 nougat, 630–631 milk, 240–241, 297, 351, 355–356, 379– Mimouna, 407–408 Nova-style smoked salmon, 370 380, 404–405, 500, 502, 570, 601 mufl eta, 410–411 nuts. See also specifi c nuts by name millstone, rotary, 71 naa-naa , 416 baklava, 37–38 Mimouna, 410, 497–498, 631 pain petri, 60 dukkah, 164–165 mint, 416 pastilla, 448–449 klaicha fi lling, 318 Mishnah, 71, 88, 95, 228, 295, 390, 539 preserved lemon, 362 ma’amoul, 372–373 mitmita, 47 raricha, 497–498 makagigi, 376–377 Mizrachim. See also specifi c countries ras el hanout, 498 nusstortes, 420–421 by name sfenj, 545 pletzlach, 472 apricots, 20 tagine, 574–575 sfratti, 546 charoset, 104–105 tufera, 497 sohan asali, 556 chickpeas, 122 warka, 606 teiglach, 583 cumin, 150 weddings, 612 tishpishti, 588–589 etrogs, for Sukkot, 180 yahrzeit, 621 travados, 592 harisa, 259 Yom Kippur, 627 zaban, 630–631 hilula, 621–622 zaban, 630–631 zimtsternen, 633–634 lamb, 351 mouna, 436 lentils, 363 mourning practices, 544–545, 621–622 O pigeon, 461 moussaka, 173 oaf, 52 quince, 493 Mrs. Rorer’s New Cook Book, 23, 75, oats, 236 rice, 501 141, 319–320, 459, 497, 562 obi nan, 417

bbindex.inddindex.indd 647647 77/23/10/23/10 12:1712:17 PMPM 648 F index

offal, 402–403 paprikás, 234, 428 Seder, 539–541 Ohana, Shimon, 337 parakh non, 419 seor, 543 oil, 317, 455. See also specifi c oils by pareve, 327 sponge cake, 561–562 name Pariser schnitzel, 536 pasta. See also noodles oil pastry, 391, 581, 582 Parmentier, Antoine- Auguste, 482 calsones, 87 ojaldre, 64 Parshat Zachor, 340 couscous, 146–147 oleuropein, 426 parsley, 95, 115, 290–291, 572 galuska, 216–217 Olivier, Lucien, 519–520 paschal offering, 539 keskasune, 299 olla poderida, 207 Passover kreplach, 120–121, 329–330 omelets, 125, 170, 206–207, 209–210, afi komen, 3–4 mandlen, 386–387 272–273, 342–343, 397–398, 418 apio, 18–19 masconod, 391–392 Omer, 345–346 arrope, 22 pasticcio, 445–446 onions, 49–50, 171, 234, 253, 293, 364, bimuelos, 51 pastitsio, 446 439, 470–472, 620 borscht, 66 pirogen, 464–465 opium, 481 carp, 92–93 quadrucci, 491 Oppenheim, Daniel Moritz, 255 chametz, 101–102 tortelli, 591 orange, 104, 202, 627–628 charoset, 103–107 varenikes, 603–604 orgeade bolussen, 59 chicory/endive, 123 pasta sfoglia, 81 orten, 395 chremsel, 131 pasteurization, 405 Or Zarua, 127 compote, 139 pastry. See also cookies; phyllo osbana/osban, 1, 584 dumplings, 168 asabia, 24 Oscherwitz, Isaac, 528 eggs, 171 atar, 26–27 osh sevo, 34 eingemacht, 175 baklava, 37–38 Ottoman Empire, 136, 238, 246, falsche fi sh, 185 bola, 58–59 275–276, 424, 594 farfel, 187 boreka, 62–64 ova spongia, 209 fennel, 193 bougatsa, 68 ovens, 71–72, 347, 415, 488 fi sh, 200 boyo, 68–70 oxen, 44 fourma, 207 brik , 72–73 oznei Haman (Haman’s ear), 247–248, fritters, 212 bulema, 77–78 490 gebrochts, 218 burag, 81 horseradish, 265–266 buricche, 81–82 P h’raimi, 269 crostata, 147–148 paczki, 566 huevos haminados, 253 Danish, 152–153 padrino, 76 karpas, 290–291 delkel, 158–159 pain petri, 60 khenaghi, 304 desayuno, 159 pancake bread, 274–275, 349–350, kitniyot, 315–317 fl uden, 203–205 410–411 knaidel, 319–321 foulare, 206 pancakes koraik, 325–326 galaktoboureko, 215–216 appam, 18 lamb, 350–351 gomo, 230–232 ashisha, 25 macaroon, 374 Haman’s ear, 247–248 atayef, 27 maror, 389–390 hamantaschen, 248–250 bimuelo, 51 matza, 393–397 jachnun, 280–281 blini, 56 matza brei, 398 kada, 284–285 blintz, 56–58 Mimouna, 407 kaletzin, 285–286 chremsel, 131 mina, 408–409 kanafeh, 286–288 latke, 352–355 nusstortes, 420–421 khachapuri, 299–300 malpua, 382–383 oil, 423–424 knish, 322–324 matza brei, 397–398 pizzarelle, 469–470 pastida, 447–448 mchadi, 398–399 potatoes, 483 pite, 468–469 palacsinta, 432–433 quajado, 492 Purim, 489–490 pannekoeken, 437 radishes, 495 sambusak, 523–524 tiganites, 585 rice, 502 schalet, 530 pans, 341, 561, 574–575 Russian Salad, 520 schnecken, 534–536 paprika, 9, 234–235, 357–358 scacchi, 529 singara, 555

bbindex.inddindex.indd 648648 77/23/10/23/10 12:1712:17 PMPM index G 649

strudel, 562–565 pickles, 144–145, 149, 157, 205, mahmoosa, 376 subya, 565 262–263, 362, 526–527, 597–598 makoud, 378 sufganiyah, 565–566 pies, 68, 206–207, 408–409, 445–449, potatonik, 484–485 teig, 581–583 530 shlishkes, 553 teiglach, 583–584 pigeon, 448–449, 612 sofrito, 556 warka, 606 pike, 221 pot roast, 74, 177–178, 218–219, zalabia, 631–632 pikholts, 28 525–526 zvingous, 634–635 pilaf, 434–435, 461–463 poultry. See bird pâté, 363 pilchards, 524 povidl, 361 pâte à choux, 634 Pinckowitz, Isadore, 268 Pozsonyi kifl i, 313 peafowl, 594 piperine, 454 preserves, 165–166, 174–175, 249, 362, peas, 151 pita, 184 493 peppermint, 409 placinta, 433 Pressburger kipplach, 313 peppers, 9, 357–358, 392–393, 411. See plätzchen, 17 press, olive, 426–427 also chilies pletzlach, 175 prickly pear (sabra), 516–517 Persia plow, 236 priestly portion, challah as, 96–97 ash, 25 plums, 321, 361–362, 589–590, 635–636 Provence, 4–5 baklava, 37–38 pol, 42–43 prunes, 198, 361–362, 475, 635–636 borani, 62 Poland puddings cardoons, 90 babka, 32–34 ashure, 25–26 charoset, 106 bialys, 50 babanatza, 31–32 chelow, 113–115 carp, 92–93 beleela, 47 faludeh, 186–187 challah, 99 budino, 76–77 fesenjan, 193–194 farfel, 187 galaktoboureko, 215 gundi, 241–242 halke, 244–245 halva, 246 halva/halvah, 245–247 jelly doughnuts, 566 kheer, 303–304 kashk, 294–296 krupnik, 330–331 kissel, 315 kebab, 296–297 makagigi, 376–377 kugel, 338–341 khoresh, 304–305 pirog, 464–465 malabi, 379–380 kuku, 342–343 potatoes, 483 sachlav, 517–519 mezze, 403 potatonik, 484–485 schalet, 530 mujaddara, 411–413 reshinke, 499 sutlach, 569–570 naan, 415–416 vishniak, 604 puff pastry, 81–82, 424, 456 nan, 416–418 polenta, 384 pumpernickel, 511 nargesi, 418 polow, 114, 462. See also chelow pumpkin, 50–51, 591 noodles, 442 pomegranate, 193–194, 301, 507 purifi cation rites, 629 rice, 501 pomegranate molasses, 42 Purim rice and meat dishes, 461–462 ponchiks, 566 biscochos, 54 rice pudding, 502–503 poppy seeds, 308, 377–378, 472, 489 bola, 59 sabzi, 517 pörkölt, 234 chicken soup, 120–121 sharbat, 548–549 porridges, 215, 236, 242, 258–259, 292, chickpeas, 122 shirini, 552 294–295, 383 fava beans, 191 sohan asali, 556 Portugal, 58–60, 68–70, 560, 567–568 fi dellos, 195 spinach, 560 potassium nitrate (saltpeter), 144 foulare, 206 tachin, 573–574 potatoes general discussion, 488 yakhna, 622–623 aloo bondas, 61–62 ghraybeh, 225 zalabia, 631–632 aloo makalla, 16 halva, 246 Pesach. See Passover brik bil batata, 72–73 Haman’s ear, 247–248 Petach Tikvah, 430 gomo, 232 hamantaschen, 248–250 petel, 549 halkes, 244–245 huevos haminados, 253 petitim, 147 knish, 322 kichel, 308 phyllo, 24, 37–38, 68, 72, 81, 215–216, kugel, 339 kindli, 311 383, 424, 433, 448–449 latke, 352–355 kreplach, 329–330 pickelfl eisch, 144–146 mafrum, 375–376 kuku, 343

bbindex.inddindex.indd 649649 77/23/10/23/10 12:1712:17 PMPM 650 F index

Purim (Continued) grape leaves stuffed with, 238 baklava, 38 lebkuchen, 356 kibbeh mahshi, 306 bichak, 50–51 ma’amoul, 372 kitniyot, 317 biscochos, 54 minestra, 409 kouclas, 328–329 black- eyed peas, 55 mishloach manot, 409 kugel, 339 bollo, 60 nuts, 421 malida, 381–382 boreka, 64 poppy seeds, 481 mujaddara, 411–412 brain, 70 rahat lokum, 495 palau, 434–435 bread, 99 raisins, 497 pilau, 461–463 bulemas, 78 roscas, 505 plov, 473–474 cabbage, 84–85 sambusak, 524 risotto, 503–504 carp, 92, 93 samsa, 524 with saffron, 519 carrots, 94 schnitzel, 537 sutlach, 569–570 chard, 103 shirini, 552 tabyeet, 572–573 chickpeas, 122 strudel, 563 tachin, 573–574 compote, 139 sutlach, 570 timman, 585–586 couscous, 147 teiglach, 583 weddings, 612 farfel, 187–188 tishpishti, 589 rice-fl our pudding, 379 fava beans, 192 tortelli, 591 rice noodles, 186–187 fenugreek, 193 travados, 592 rice pudding, 303–304 fesenjan, 193 zaban, 631 ricotta, 109 fi sh, 199–200 zalabia, 632 rihat el kaak, 284 fl uden, 203, 204 risotto, 60 goose, 233 Q robb/rubb, 22 gozinaki, 235 qabuli palau, 435 rocket, 24 gribenes, 239 qata’if, 27, 286 roe, 577–578 halva, 246 quark, 224 Rokeach, Israel, 327 hamud, 254 quern, 70–71 rolls, 49–50, 311–313, 377–378, 436–437, hilu, 264 quince, 104, 305, 507 534–536, 632–633 honey, 265 Romania kaak, 284 R brinza, 73–74 keftes, 299 rabbis, 515, 586, 621–622 cheese, 109 keskasune, 299 Radhanites, 92, 558–560 fl uden, 204 khalia, 301 Radutzky, Nathan, 576 guvetch, 242–244 khobz, 303 ragouts, 242–244, 357–358 halva, 246 khoresh, 304 rain, 607–608 kapama, 244 kugel, 340 raisins, 22–23, 32, 381–382 karnatzlach, 289–290 lebkuchen, 356 randa, 419 malai, 380–381 leeks, 358 Rashi, 290–291, 447 mamaliga, 383–385 lekach, 360 ratafi a, 374 palacsinta, 432–434 ma’amoul, 372 ravioli, 591 papanash, 437–438 mahmoosa, 376 redemption, of fi rstborn, 459 pastrami, 449–450 malabi, 380 relishes, 8–9, 41–42, 88, 115, 124, rahat lokum, 495 melons, 402 263–264, 266, 411, 458, 597 strudel, 562–565 minestra, 409 reshicas, 54 taramasalata, 577 nuts, 421 retachlich, 495 Romaniotes, 180 polows, 114 Reuben, Arnold, 111 Rome, 40, 77, 169, 201, 469–470, 558, pomegranates, 479 rice 587 poppy seeds, 481 appam, 18 roquette, 24 pumpkin, 487 arook, 22 Rosenberg, William, 164 quajado, 492 bachsh, 34 roses, for Shavuot, 550 quince, 493 biryani, 53 rose sorbet, 186–187 raisins, 497 bomba, 60 Rosh Hashanah schalet, 530 chelow, 113–115 apples, 19 sfratti, 546 general discussion, 236 ashure, 26 sohan asali, 556

bbindex.inddindex.indd 650650 77/23/10/23/10 12:1712:17 PMPM index G 651

sponge cake, 561 jaaleh, 280 Sachertorte, 126 strudel, 563 jachnun, 280–281 Safed cheese, 109 taramasalata, 577 kaak, 284 Sages, 3–4, 52–53, 103–104, 117, 255, teiglach, 583 kasha varnishkes, 293 308, 404, 539 tishpishti, 589 khobz, 303 sajj/sag, 71 tongue, 591 khoresh, 304 salads tortelli, 591 kichel, 308 baba ghanouj, 31 travados, 592 Kiddush, 308–310 borani, 62 tzimmes, 599 kishke, 314 cucumber, 149 zaban, 631 knaidel, 320 ikres, 273 zvingous, 634 knish, 322–323 matbucha, 392–393 zwetschgenkuchen, 636 kouclas, 328–329 mechouiya, 399 Rothschild, Baron Edmond de, 619 kubaneh, 331–332 pasta, 444–445 roux, 174 kuchen, 336 potato, 483 Russia, 285–286, 465, 509, 579, 580 kugel, 340 tabbouleh, 572 rutabaga, 597 kugelhopf, 342 with tahini, 576 rye, 72, 237, 486–487 kuku, 343 tarator, 578 malai, 381 tomato, 590 S mandlen, 386 watermelon and feta, 609 Sabbath Melaveh Malkah, 399 whitefi sh, 616 adafi na, 1–3 palau, 435 salami, 528 avicas, 29 pasta, 444–445 salat katzutz (Israeli Salad), 278–279 babka, 32 pastelitos, 445 salidura de boda, 571 biscochos, 54 pastida, 447–448 salmon, 369–371 boreka, 64 patsas, 451 Salonika, 467 bread, 70 pite, 468 saloop, 517–518 brit milah, 76 pogácsa, 477 salsa agraz, 5 cabbage, 85 polpette, 478 salt beef, 144–146 caponata, 88 potatonik, 484 salt cod, 136 carp, 91–92 p’tcha, 485 salted herring, 205, 262 challah, 97–101 quajado, 492 salting, 326–327, 400, 457–458 chicken, 118 regel, 499 saltpeter (potassium nitrate), 144 cholent, 127–129 risotto, 503 samneh/samna, 83 dabo, 151 roscas, 505 samovars, 579 desayuno, 159 Russian Salad, 520 sandek, 76 dolma, 162 sambusak, 524 sandwiches, 325–326, 516 dumplings, 168 schalet, 529 sangak, 415 empanadas, 177 scharfe fi sh, 530 Sapir- Whorf hypothesis, 70 farfel, 187 schnapps, 534 satsebeli bazha, 42 fatoot, 190 sebit, 538–539 sauces fi sh, 199 Sephardic breads for, 59–60 agraz, 4–5 fl uden, 203 shakshuka, 548 agristada, 5–6 forshmak, 205 shkanah, 552–553 ahilado, 6 fritada, 210 sofrito, 555 bazha, 42 gedempte fl eisch, 218 sutlach, 570 chili- based, 124 gefi lte fi sh, 219, 220 tabyeet, 572–573 for dolmas, 161 goose, 233 tagine, 575 hamud, 254 gruenkernsuppe, 240 tea, 580 horseradish, 266 gundi, 242 teiglach, 583 h’raimi, 268–269 hamin, 250–252 t’fi na, 584 khalia, 300–301 harisa, 258–259 tishpishti, 589 khoresh, 304–305 herring, 263 tongue, 591 kissel, 315 h’raimi, 269 tzimmes, 598–600 mafrum, 375–376 huevos haminados, 252–254 wot, 620 tahini, 576 in Israel, 277 zemmel, 632–633 tarator, 578

bbindex.inddindex.indd 651651 77/23/10/23/10 12:1712:17 PMPM 652 F index

sauces (Continued) celery, 95–96 pepitada, 451–452 tkemali, 589–590 chard, 103 peshkado frito, 454–456 tomato, 590 charoset, 104–105 pigeon, 461 walnut, for pkhali, 470 cheese, 108 pita, 467 sauerbraten, 218 chicken soup, 120 pumpkin, 487 sauerkraut, 129–131 chickpeas, 122 Purim, 489–490 sausage, 1, 261, 267, 313–315, 520–521, chocolate, 125 quajado, 492 584 cod, 135–136 quince, 493 savory pastry fi llings, 197 cumin, 150 revanadas de parida, 500 schalet. See cholent desayuno, 159 rice, 501–502 schalet à la Juive, 203 dulce, 165–166 rice pudding, 502, 503 schieber, 395 dumplings, 166 roscas, 504–505 Schimmel, Yonah, 322, 323 eggplant, 173 Rosh Hashanah, 507 schmaltz, 233, 239 eggs, 169 Sabbath bread, 97 schmaltz herring, 262 empanadas, 176–177 sambusak, 524 schvartze retach mit schmaltz, 495 engagements, 610 Seder, 540–541 schwarzbrot, 486–487, 511 etrogs, for Sukkot, 180 Shavuot, 550 scrod, 135 fasoulia, 189 shkanah, 552–553 Second Aliyah, 276 fava beans, 191–192 sofrito, 555–556 Seder, 593. See also Passover fi dello, 194–195 spinach, 560 Sefer Haminhagot, 316 fi sh, 200 sponge cake, 561–562 Sefer ha- Rokeach, 4, 105 fl an, 202 stuffed vegetables, 161 seffa, 147 foulare, 206 Sukkot, 569 semolina. See also specifi c dishes by fourma, 206–207 sutlach, 570 name fritada, 209–210 sweetbread, 571 seniyeh, 305 fritters, 212 tarator, 578 Sephardim. See also specifi c countries Haman’s ear, 247–248 teiglach, 583 by name hamin, 250–252 Tisha b’Av, 588 adafi na, 1–3 Hanukkah, 256 tomatoes, 590 afi komen, 4 huevos haminados, 252–254 travados, 592 agristada, 5 inchusa, 274 Tu b’Shevat, 593 albondigas, 10 Jordan almonds, 15–16 vanilla, 602 almodrote, 11–12 keftaji, 297–298 verjuice, 5 almond milk, 14 keftes, 298–299 walnut, 605 almond paste, 15 kitniyot, 317 weddings, 611, 612 almonds, 13 kouclas, 328–329 Yom Kippur, 626–627 arroz, 23 lamb, 351 zvingous, 634–635 artichokes, 24 leeks, 358 Serbia, 476 avicas, 29–30 lentils, 363 sesame, 246, 269–271, 575–576, 630 bar or bat mitzvahs, 41 matza, 394 The Settlement Cook Book, 139, 141. beans, 43 mechouiya, 399 See also specifi c dishes by name beef, 44 meldado, 621 seudah, 489 bimuelos, 51 meshwi, 403 Seudat David Hamelek, 399 birds, 52 mina, 408–409 Seudat Hamafseket, 587 biscochos, 54 mishloach manot, 409 Seudat Havra’ah, 171, 363 black- eyed peas, 55 ojaldre, 424 Seudat Mafseket, 626 bola, 58–59 okra, 424–425 seudat mitzvah, 76 bollo, 59–60 onions, 428 sfoglietti, 444 borekas, 62–64 oranges, 429 Shabbat. See Sabbath bougatsa, 68 pandericas, 436–437 Shabbat Beraisheet, 251 boyos, 68–70 Passover, 442 Shabbat Chatan, 28 brit milah, 76 pasta, 444 Shabbat Zakhor, 206 bulemas, 77–78 pastelitos, 445 Shabbos ganif, 129 carp, 93 pastida, 447–448 shadd-il- asse , 76 caulifl ower, 95 pastilla, 448–449 shalachmones, 409

bbindex.inddindex.indd 652652 77/23/10/23/10 12:1712:17 PMPM index G 653

shalom zachor, 191 Shevah Minim, 593 khalia, 300–301 shalosh seudot, 263, 516 shikkera babka, 33 kharcho, 301–302 sharab al-rumman , 480 shipudim, 402 kissel, 315 sharope, 165 shish kebab, 296–297 with knaidel, 320 Shavuot shiva, 545 kreplach, 329, 330–331 atayef, 27 shivat ye’mei hamishteh, 612 kubbeh, 333–334 biscochos, 54 Shloshet Hashavuot, 586 lablabi, 344 blintzes, 57 shochet, 551 lagman, 346–347 borani, 62 shortbread, 372–373 mandlen, 386–387 boreka, 64 shortening, 581 melokhia, 400–401 bougatsa, 68 shoti’s puri, 488 minestra, 409 boyos, 68–70 showbread, 97 patsas, 450–451 bread, 99 shtei ha’lechem, 70 regel, 498–499 calsones, 87 Shulchan Arukh, 4, 177, 200, 447–448 tarator, 578 cherries, 116 shuman, 112–113 sour cream, 65, 336, 391 dumplings, 168 shumar, 192 sourdough, 151, 274–275, 542–543 fava beans, 192 shurpa lagman, 346 sour sauce, 254 fi sh, 200 Shushan Purim, 489 Spain fl uden, 203 Sicily, 88, 444 adafi na, 1 galaktoboureko, 215 Silk Road, 133, 558 agraz, 4–5 honey, 265 Silverman, Althea O., 509 agristada, 5–6 kaletzin, 285 Simchat Beit ha- Shoavah , 607 albondiga, 9–10 khobz, 303 Simchat Torah, 15, 19, 85–86, 203–204, almodrote, 11–12 kindli, 311 321, 495, 583 apio, 18–19 kipfel, 313 Singer, Isaac Bashevis, 122, 329, 396, arrope, 22 knish, 323 470, 516 bimuelo, 51 kreplach, 329 siniyya, 305 biscocho, 53–54 kuchen, 336 slaughtering, 44, 326, 551 bola, 58–59 kugel, 340 slav, 491 bollo, 59–60 lekach, 359, 360 slivovitz, 436 boyo, 68–70 mamaliga, 384 Slovakia, 436 bulema, 77–78 mujaddara, 412 Slovenia, 476 candied almonds, 15–16 ojaldre, 424 smen, 83 chocolate, 125 Omer, 345 smoked fi sh, 370–371, 615 dulce, 165–166 palacsinta, 433 sof, 434 fi dello, 194–195 papanash, 438 solet, 541 fl an, 201–202 pastelitos, 445 Solowey, Dr. Elaine, 22, 154 fricassee, 207–208 pite, 468 somloi galuska, 216 fritada, 209–210 radishes, 495 sorbet, 186–187, 549 Haman’s ear, 247–248 rice pudding, 503 sorrel, 531–532 hamin, 250–252 roscas, 505 souks, 277 haminado, 252–254 rose water, 506 soup nuts, 386–387 inchusa, 274 rugelach, 510 soups macaroon, 373–375 sambusak, 524 ash, 25 mina, 408–409 schav, 531 avgolemono, 28–29 ojaldre, 424 sfoungato, 545 avicas, 29–30 pasta, 444 strudel, 563 borscht, 64–66 pastelito, 445 sutlach, 570 chicken, 119–121 pastida, 447–448 tortelli, 591 fatoot, 189–190 peshkado frito, 454–456 varenikes, 604 goulash, 234–235 quajado, 492 sheep, 73–74, 108–109, 194, 228, gruenkernsuppe, 240 revanada de parida, 500 350–351, 450–451 gundi, 241–242 rice, 501 Shemini Atzeret, 554, 569 hamud, 254 rosca, 504–505 sherbet, 432, 549 harira, 257–258 shkanah, 552–553 Sheva Berachot, 199, 507 kashk, 294–295 sofrito, 555–556

bbindex.inddindex.indd 653653 77/23/10/23/10 12:1712:17 PMPM 654 F index

Spain (Continued) sofrito, 555–556 strudel, 563 sponge cake, 561–562 tagine, 575 stuffed cabbage, 86 zvingous, 634–635 t’fi na, 584 stuffed peppers, 453 Spanish Inquisition, 1, 10 tzimmes, 598–600 tachin, 573 Spanish rice, 23 wot, 11, 620 tortelli, 591 spearmint, 409, 416 yakhna, 622–623 tzimmes, 599 spelt, 239–240, 613 streusel, 336 water, 607–608 spices. See also specifi c recipes by stuffed derma, 313–315 zwetschgenkuchen, 636 name; specifi c spices by name stuffed fi sh, 219–223 sumac, 630 ajwain, 9 stuffed grape leaves, 237–238 suppengrün, 240 baharat, 37 stuffed monkeys, 59 Surinam Charoset, 107 berbere, 48 stuffed poultry neck, 261–262 swaddling cloth cutting ceremony, dukkah, 164–165 stuffed vegetables, 85–87, 160–162, 173, 15–16 harissa, 259–260 375–376, 452–453 swanne, 570–571 hawaij, 190, 260 sugar, 580, 603 sweet pepper, 452–453 lekach, 359 sugar beets, 46–47, 174–175 sweet potato, 481 me’orav yerushalmi, 402–403 sugar syrup (atar), 26–27, 240–241, 282, Swiss chard, 102–103 palau, 434 287, 366–367, 592 symbolic foods, for Rosh Hashanah, ras el hanout, 498 Sukkot 507–508 s’chug, 538 ajlouk, 8 symposium, 3–4, 539–540 tabil, 572 apples, 19 Syria za’atar, 629–630 ashure, 26 apricots, 20 spinach, 62, 81–82, 232, 343, 531, beleela, 47 bazargan, 41–42 545–546 bichak, 50–51 brit milah, 76 spirits, 436 biscochos, 54 calsones, 87 sponge, 542 bollo, 60 candied almonds, 15 sponge cake, 388, 420 boreka, 64 engagements, 610 starter dough, 542–543, 623 bread, 99 hamud, 254 steakiya, 277–278 bulemas, 78 ijeh, 273 stews cabbage, 84, 85 keskasune, 299 adafi na, 1–3 citron, 179–180 kibbeh, 305 adzhapsandali, 3 compote, 139 kibbeh mahshi, 306–307 alboronia, 11 couscous, 147 lahmajin, 347–348 alicha, 11 dolma, 162 muhammara, 411 avicas, 29–30 eggplant, 173–174 sebit, 538–539 cholent, 127–129 fi dellos, 195 sofrito, 555 couscous, 147 fl uden, 203 swanne, 570–571 dal, 151–152 goose, 233 tabyeet, 572–573 dimlama, 160 Hoshanah Rabbah, 267 tamarind sauce, 577 fasoulia, 188–189 khobz, 303 yahrzeit, 621 fesenjan, 193–194 knedlíky, 321 Yom Kippur, 627 goulash, 234–235 knish, 323 syrups, 22–23, 26–27, 91, 155, 196, guvetch, 242–244 lebkuchen, 356 480, 548–549, 577, 588–589, hamin, 250–252 makoud, 378 592 keftaji, 297–298 ojaldre, 424 szilvás gombóc, 230 khoresh, 304–305 pastilla, 448 kouclas, 328–329 pites, 468 T krushka, 331 pomegranates, 479 ta’amia, 183 lahm lhalou, 348–349 pumpkin, 487 tabsil, 606 lungen, 371 quince, 493 tabun, 71 offal, 422 raisins, 497 Tachdid ceremony, 76 paprikás, 439–440 sambusak, 524 taftoon, 415 Sabbath, 514 schalet, 530 tahini, 31 shakshuka, 547–548 sofrito, 555 tajine malsouka, 383

bbindex.inddindex.indd 654654 77/23/10/23/10 12:1712:17 PMPM index G 655

ta’liya, 401 Tunisia weddings, 612 tamarind, 41–42 ajlouk , 8–9 zvingous, 634 tamcha, 389, 390 brik, 72–73 turkey (meat), 261–262, 489, 537, tamiya, 183 cardoons, 90 550–551 tandir non, 419 chermoula, 115 Turkish coffee, 136 tanur, 71, 415 fourma, 206–207 Turkish Delight, 495–496 tapuach, 19, 103–104 harissa, 259–260 Turk’s Cap pan, 341, 561 taratur bi tahina, 576 keftaji, 297–298 turnip, 458 tarhana, 79 lablabi, 344 turnovers, 50–51, 62–64, 72–73, 81–82, tarts, 147–148, 200, 274, 468–469, makoud, 378 176–177, 465, 523–524 635–636 malsouka, 383 turtledove, 460 tavla de dulce, 165, 610 tabil, 572 tutu, 55 tea, 416 tagine, 575 tzafun, 3–4 teff, 274–275 t’fi na, 584 tzena, 277 teganon, 574 yoyo, 627–628 Tzimmes Revolt, 600 tenaim shidukin, 610 Turkey tzipor, 52 thickeners, 174 ahilado, 6 thimble noodles, 369 almodrote, 11–12 U Third Aliyah, 276 apricots, 20 udhun, 247 Thompson, Daniel, 36 arroz, 23 Ukraine tie daygi, 435 ashure, 25 babka, 32–34 Tikkun Olam, 254 avicas, 29–30 borscht, 64–66 Tikun Leil Shavuot, 550 baklava, 37–38 challah, 99 Tisha b’Av, 192, 194, 263, 272–273, 412, boreka, 62–64 farfel, 187 451, 544, 548 dolma, 160–162 forshmak, 205 tomatoes eggplant, 173 gogol mogol, 229 ahilado, 6 fasoulia, 188–189 kasha varnishkes, 293–294 arroz, 23 foulares, 206 knish, 322–324 avicas, 29–30 galaktoboureko, 215 Seudat Mafseket, 626 fasoulia, 188–189 gomo de handrajo, 231 varenik/varenikes, 603–604 fi dellos, 195 guvetch, 242–244 vishniak, 604 gomo, 231 halva, 246 ulshin, 390 h’raimi, 268–269 kebab, 296–297 umbles, 422 Israeli salad, 278–279 kefte, 298–299 unniappam, 18 keftaji, 297–298 lokma, 366–367 Ushpizin, 569 kubbeh, 333 manti, 387 Uzbekistan, 34, 50–51, 160, 346–347, lecsó, 357–358 menemen, 547 387, 418–419, 473–474, 524, 579 matbucha, 392–393 mina, 408–409 okra, 424–425 muhammara, 411 V rice with, 501–502 orchid root powder, 517 vadzha, 346 shakshuka, 547–548 patsas, 450–451 vajas pogácsa, 477–478 yakhna, 622 pilau, 462 vakhnacht, 75–76 toné, 488 pogaca, 476–477 valetshovnes, 253 topfen, 313 rahat lokum, 495–496 varnishkes, 604 Torah, 554 sharbat, 549 vasser challah, 99 Tosafot, 291 shawarma, 550–551 vassergiesser, 395 Tosefta, 392 strudel, 562 veal, 185–186, 235, 331, 536, 548 tracta, 203 stuffed cabbage, 85–87 vegetables. See specifi c dishes by trahanas, 295–296 stuffed grape leaves, 237–238 name; specifi c vegetables by treger, 395–396 sutlach, 570 name Tu b’Av, 25 taramasalata, 577–578 Venice, 273–274, 504 Tu b’Shevat, 19, 26, 47, 54, 90, 182, tarator, 578 verjuice, 4–5 251, 382, 421, 632 tishpishti, 588–589 vermesel, 208–209 tufera, 497 travado, 592 vermiculos, 131, 211

bbindex.inddindex.indd 655655 77/23/10/23/10 12:1712:17 PMPM 656 F index

verte du Puy, 363 Yemen kichel, 308 veula, 76 ajin Taimani, 7–8 kreplach, 329 vinegar, 457–458, 525, 597–598 charoset, 107 kuchen, 336 vineyards, 616–619 falafel, 183 kugel, 340 Volk, Sussman, 450 fatoot, 189–191 lekach, 360 hawaij, 260 ojaldre, 424 W hilbeh, 263–264 okra, 424 wafers, 430–431 jaaleh, 280 padhar, 432 waffl es, 431 jachnun, 281 pepitada, 451–452 walnuts, 42, 193–194, 235, 304, 376–377, kubaneh, 331–332 pinzette, 464 411, 470, 589 lahuh, 349–350 Purim, 489 water, 395 melawah, 399–400 quadrucci, 491 weddings, 15, 28, 119, 488, 497, 502, regel, 498–499 quajado, 492 552, 556, 570–571, 631 s’chug, 537–538 quince, 493 Weiner schnitzel, 536 subya, 565 sharbat, 549 wheat, 40, 72, 102, 235–236, 294–295, weddings, 609, 611 singara, 555 393, 437, 488. See also bread; yeshua haben, 76 sutlach, 570 bulgur; semolina; specifi c kinds of yogurt, 62, 294–295, 344, 355–356, tishpishti, 589 wheat by name 578 travados, 592 wheat berries, 25–26, 47, 258–259, 615 Yom Ha’zikkaron, 626 tzimmes, 599 whitefi sh, 221 Yom Kippur zimtsternen, 633 wine, 309, 403, 497, 525, 593, 611 biscochos, 54 yoykh, 220 Wolf, Rebekka, 140 bollo, 60 yufka, 38 wool, 351 bread, 99 wormwood, 390 brit milah, 76 Z wot, 11, 275 chicken soup, 120 zangula, 256 fi dellos, 195 Zangwill, Israel, 59, 187, 199, 221, 368, Y fi sh, 200 454 Yamim Noraim, 506 galaktoboureko, 215 Zeeuwse bolussen, 59 yeast, 274–275, 542–543, 617. See also gundi, 242 Zemurray, Samuel, 38–39 bread hadgi badah, 244 zetser, 395 yeast dough, 7, 162–163, 250, 310–311, harira, 257 Z’man Simchateinu, 569 523–524, 581–583 Hoshanah Rabbah, 267 zmires, 28 Yehi Ratzones, 55, 492 kaak, 284 zserbo, 204 yellow rice, 501, 612 kaletzin, 285–286 zucchini relish, 8–9

bbindex.inddindex.indd 656656 77/23/10/23/10 12:1712:17 PMPM