ISSN: 1309-3851 the the 2015 march complete guide to go guide to ® Ç ENGEL DREAM KÖY Spring Shopping Trend G Cul ourme F A OF t ... and mu ... and PAR ural Attural istanbul t R e st K HOMEK ra LI auran c h more ct ion F E ts s s

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Istanbul March 2015 the guide

10 SIGHTSEEING & museums Major sightseeing attractions plus museums and events.

18 Galleries National and commercial art galleries.

22 entertainment & NIGHTLIFE The latest information on İstanbul’s concerts and clubs.

30 shopping Major shopping areas and our choice of the best speciality stores

44 dining Listings by neighbourhood and cuisine

58 ESSENTIALS Transport and useful information. Tips for getting around town.

Contents on the cover 4 HOT DATES 22 JAZZ TREE CONCERT SERIES ÇengelköyPark Homes: The Moscow State Academy of Choreography Enjoy a tribute concert to legendary jazz New Project, New Dreams is staging Coppelia, famous Latino singer Julio saxophonist Stan Getz, at Salon IKSV. STAY IN TOUCH Iglesias performs at Ülker Sports Arena, and actor Follow us on twitter Hugh Jackman is on stage at Zorlu Center PSM. 64 MY PERFECT DAY @where_istanbul

Samim Hatipoğlu, founding director of Kronos Like us on facebook.com/ 8 ORGANIC MEDITERRANEAN Development, shares his favourite spots in whereistanbulmagazine

FLAVOURS İstanbul. Where is the largest global Make sure to sample Chef Giovanni Terracciano’s publisher of visitor magazines, available in the finest hotels and Swiss and Italian dishes at AzzuR Restaurant, operating in 76 cities worldwide. at the Mövenpick Hotel İstanbul. march 2015 I WHERE İSTANBUL 1 Your traveling companion since 1936® ®

wheremagazine

WHERE MAGAZINE İSTANBUL EDiTORIAL EDITOR Dilek Koç MANAGING DIRECTOR Gürkan Kınacı Contributing editor Emma Levine englısh edıtorıal dırector Bob Beer Designer Tijen Tezel contrıbutors Ardan Zentürk, Özden Akbal deputy edıtor Özlem Aykın Kınacı oaykin@ whereistanbul.com.tr photo edıtor Sami Atalan consultant Aynur Koç responsıble edıtor Aslı Koç ADVERTISING & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT SALES DIRECTORS Zeynep Sezer [email protected] Selen Uzeroğlu Kaya [email protected] busıness development & marketıng marketing dırEctor Mahmut Bölükbaş [email protected] productıon productıon manager Aybüke Kevser assıstant Selda Ceylan Toprak controller Yıldırım Uğurgelen

where (c), cee & turkey dıvısıon United Guides Hungary MANAGING DIRECTOR András Wiszkidenszky regıonal manager Bianca Otero

Managing Director Europe Morris Visitor PublicationS Chris Manning MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN & CEO William S. Morris III PRESIDENT William S. Morris IV PUBLISHER DSTİL TASARIM İLETİŞİM TİCARET LTD. ŞTİ. Teşvikiye, Deryadil Sok. Şeren Apt. 104/10, Şişli 34365, İstanbul Tel: 0212 296 0039 Fax: 0212 225 0552 Prınted by turkuvaz matbaacılık yayıncılık A.Ş. Akpınar Mah. Hasan Basri Cad. No.4 Sancaktepe, İstanbul Tel: 0216 5859000 Fax: 0216 585 9130 Issue No.61 ISSN: 1309-3851 Publication type: Monthly periodical Plan ahead for your next visit to İstanbul, subscribe to where istanbul: 12 issues for overseas subcriptions $50. Contact: [email protected] Facebook: Where İstanbul Magazine Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

CONCIERGE ADVISORY BOARD Union Internationale des Concierges d’Hotel “Les Clefs d’Or” is an International Association of Concierges. Registered at 12, Rue Cambon, 75001 Paris, France. Members are as follows Ali Öner - Intercontinental İstanbul Cengiz Görkem - Çırağan Palace Kempinski İstanbul Halil Tınaztepe - Four Seasons Bosphorus Hakan Taşpınar - Four Seasons Sultanahmet Koray Tüfekçi - Park Hyatt İstanbul Maçka Palas Cenk Caner - The Ritz - Carlton, İstanbul Sedat Tuncay - Sheraton Hotel Ankara Adnan Öner (President) - Swissôtel The Bosphorus Alparslan Yıldız - The Grand Tarabya Kaan Özkan - Raffles İstanbul Fetih Güçlüer - Shangri La Bosphorus, İstanbul Endorsed by the Society of the Golden Keys of Turkey

2 WHERE İstanbul I MARCH 2015 WELCOME Editor's Letter The Arrival of Spring Another brand new month is upon us. As the weather warms just a bit more, it gets easier to wander the city to your heart’s content. Concerts, exhibitions and shows await visitors, and a vast choice of venues prepare to welcome new guests. The ‘Jazz Tree’ concert series presents a tribute concert to the legendary saxophonist Stan Getz at Salon IKSV (p. 22), and elsewhere İstanbul prepares to host an exciting line up of famous performers. At Zorlu Center PSM, popular actor Hugh Jackman (p. 25) performs a selection of songs from famous musicals, while at the Ülker Sports Arena, Spanish star Julio Iglesias sings songs full of love as well as mirth (p. 25). For lovers of classical music, the Borusan Philharmonic Orchestra performs for two days with several different guest artists, and German pianist Joseph Moog is on stage at The Seed (p. 23). İstanbul’s galleries are as lively as ever, with no end of interesting exhibitions. You can view the Alberto Giacometti exhibition opening at the excellent Pera Museum, alongside its continuing exhibition Life is Short, Art is Long: The Art of Healing in Byzantium (p. 18). At Salt Galata, Nikolaj Bendix Skyum Larsen dedicates his exhibition End of Dreams to immigrants who have lost their lives in their attempt to cross the Mediterranean (p. 21). As the season changes, so do the winds of fashion; major shopping malls like İstinyepark and Kanyon are setting out their new collections for the spring. The warming weather is also enlivening the pace in outdoor shopping areas like İstiklal Caddesi and Nişantaşı. Along with all the other attractions İstanbul has to offer, don’t miss the classical sights on the Historic Peninsula, including the Blue Mosque (p. 16), Hagia Sophia Museum and the Basilica Cistern (p. 12)! Wishing you a lovely, fun-filled stay in our city, DİLEK KOÇ Editor, Where İstanbul

MARCH 2015www.wheretraveler.com I İstanbUl WHERE 3 Where now | CALENDAR MARCH See Medusa sculptures at the underground 1 Basilica Cistern on the Historic Peninsula (p. 12) Dine on local cuisine in a classic Turkish 2 meyhane in the historic Flower Passage. Spoil yourself with a very modern shopping HOT DATES 3 spree at Kanyon Shopping Centre (p. 33) View the Seven Hills-İstanbul at Hobi 4 Gallery (p.20)

TUESDAY-FRIDAY Enjoy the ultimate Turkish bath experience at 5 Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı (p. 39) Meet movers and shakers in the publishing 6 world at the Book Fair at CNR Expo (p. 20) 7 Don’t miss the concert by Karsu, the renowned 17-20 Turkish pianist, at Zorlu Center PSM (p. 24) Admire the intricate tiles in the magnificent HUGH JACKMANN 8 Süleymaniye Mosque (p. 16) Famous for films such as Wolverine, Explore the historic neighbourhood of X-Men and Les Misérables, Australian 9 Fener-Balat with quaint streets. actor Hugh Jackman now shows off View the Newroz exhibition celebrating the his skills as a singer and dancer. 10 coming of spring, at Gallery Apel (p. 19) The Tony Award-winning star Head to Babylon for a concert by Turkish performs with a backing of a 11 alternative rock band Peyk (p. 24) 27-member orchestra and dancers Check out handcrafted ceramics and regional (p. 25). 12 kilims and carpets at Nakkaş (p. 35) See centuries-old carpets and manuscripts at the 13 Museum Of Turkish and Islamic Works And Arts (p. 10) SATURDAY Celebrate the 45-year career of Latin singer Julio 14 Iglesias, performing at Ülker Sports Arena (p. 25)

Enjoy fresh seasonal fish on the menu at Sur Balık 15 Restaurant in Arnavutköy (p. 49)

See priceless treasures at Topkapı Palace, the 16 old residence of the Ottoman Sultans (p. 16) 14 Enjoy the musical show by Tony-award winning 17 JULIO IGLESIAS Hugh Jackman at Zorlu Center PSM (p. 25) Throughout his 45-year career, Take a tranquil Bosphorus cruise to admire the 18 waterfront summer houses. Julio Iglesias has received Grammy's and countless other Savour sushi, seafood and succulent kebabs at 19 Izaka Restaurants & Bar-Lounge (p. 50) music awards, and given over 5,000 concerts in 600 cities. Hear the See Gencay Kasapçı’s exhibition The Infinity of a Dot 20 at Gallery Selvin 1 (p. 19) Spanish superstar’s dulcet tones on this, his last world tour, and let Catch a concert honouring the American jazz 21 saxophonist Stan Getz at Salon IKSV (p. 22) yourself be one of the millions he has enchanted (p. 25). Enjoy Sunday brunch at the stylish café bar 22 Mangerie in Bebek (p. 47) Hunt for gifts at longstanding store Paşabahçe FRIDAY-SUNDAY 23 with authentic Turkish glass items (p. 39)

Be dazzled by ancient tombs and manuscripts at 24 the excellent Archaeological Museums (p. 14) Savour authentic Cantonese and Szechwan 25 dishes at the Hilton’s Dragon Restaurant (p. 46) See a retrospective exhibition of Mehmet 27-29 26 Güleryüz’s paintings at İstanbul Modern (p. 20) COPPELIA Be wowed by underwater life, from sharks to One of Russia’s foremost ballet 27 starfish, at Sea Life Aquarium (p. 12) companies, 63 members of Dance away to deep house music at Colonie, the Moscow State Academy of 28 the latest trendy venue in Karaköy (p. 50) Choreography performs Coppelia, Enjoy Moscow State Academy of Choreography’s with music by French composer 29 Coppelia at TİM Show Center (p. 25) Léo Delibes, at TİM Show Center Experience classic French cuisine at the (p. 25). 30 stylish Brasserie Cognac in Akmerkez (p. 46) See Robert Montgomery’s installations from 31 recycled materials at İstanbul’74 (p. 20)

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Where Now | İSTANBUL in 2015

GATEWAY TO NEW HOMES An exciting new housing complex has arrived in the city. ÇengelköyPark Homes is built on 65,000m2 of land overlooking the Bosphorus in İstanbul.

6 WHERE İstanbul I MARCH 2015 Situated between the two Bosphorus bridges on The villas have four different floor plans and seven İstanbul’s Asian side, the area offers a vast choice types of exterior elevations. The villas range from of fine restaurants, entertainment, quality schools 414m 2-605m2, each including its own covered two- and distinctive neighbourhoods. The development car parking space. The project also provides social includes 27 striking villas in a variety of architectural activities, with two indoor swimming pools, an designs, 116 two-storey townhouses, 73 residences, outdoor swimming pool, a fitness centre, a spa and and a communal retail centre including a mini-market, hiking trails. cafes, restaurants and beauty salon. ADVERTISING FEATURE ADVERTISING

Selimoğlu Demirland İnşaat San. Tic. A.Ş. Mehmet Akif Ersoy Mah. Bosna Bulvarı Özçelik Sok. Çengelköy T: 444 2866. www.cengelkoypark.com

MARCH 2015 I İstanbUl WHERE 7 Where Now | İSTANBUL in 2015

AZZUR RESTAURANT

Giovanni Terracciano plus I love artichokes in olive oil and fried Executive Chef mantı. Kebabs are also high on my list.

What are the ‘must haves’ in your kitchen? What are your I must have semolina, which is a flour to signature dishes? make fresh pasta. I cannot do without a a mixture of different cultures. At times, At AzzuR Restaurant, we good quality pure olive oil – and of course it can be really chaotic. For me, İstanbul is offer a contemporary my pasta machine. a traditional city with a modern touch. Mediterranean-style menu featuring Swiss classics and Italian-inspired dishes. What new culinary trends do you predict What are your favourite places in My signature dishes are deep-fried prawns for the future? Molecular cuisine, organic İstanbul? When I have free time, I always and calamari with tartar sauce and tomato food and slow food concepts are becoming go with my family to our summer house in dip, squid ink carnaroli risotto and grilled increasingly popular. People want to eat Silivri. There is a local restaurant there that wild sea bass on spinach and asparagus. healthier food and chefs are creating their I really love, Çamlık. They bring you meat The veal strips served with traditional signature dishes from this perspective. and a fired-up grill, and you cook it yourself. Swiss rösti are very popular. At AzzuR Restaurant, we have a specific Go When we’re in Istanbul, we love to spend Healthy menu designed to showcase the time along the Bebek seaside. Recently, What is your opinion of Turkish cuisine? best regional seasonal ingredients, as well I’ve really grown fond of Karaköy too. I really like Turkish cuisine; it has so many as to inspire refreshing body balance. similarities with Italian food. Both cultures www.moevenpick-hotels.com. use nearly same ingredients but often in How would you describe İstanbul as Büyükdere Cad. 4. Levent. different ways. My favourite dish is künefe, a city? İstanbul is a city full of diversity, T: 0212 319 2929.

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The Museum Of Turkish and Famous Figures Islamic Works And Arts Reopens The museum is also home After two years of restoration, the The Museum of Turkish and Islamic Works to one of the world’s largest and most important carpet And Arts – the first Turkish museum of its kind – is once again open to visitors. collections, numbering some he museum was founded in the late 19th İbrahim Paşa Palace. A gift from Sultan Süleiman 1,700 pieces. Look out also century, in order to prevent the works of the Magnificent to Grand Vizier İbrahim Paşa, the for the stonework collection, T the pious foundations, considered the palace is notable as a very important example of which includes stone capitals, most unique examples of Islamic 16th-century architecture. milestones and inscriptions and Ottoman art, from The museum is home to Islamic from the early Islamic, Seljuk, being removed from the artworks dating from the earliest Umayyad and Abbasid country. Housed in the Islamic periods to the 20th century, periods. former soup kitchen of covering important eras such Sinan the Architect’s as the Umayyad, Abbasid, splendid Süleymaniye Maghreb, Andalusian, Seljuk, mosque complex, Mamlouk, Safavid and Ottoman the museum was periods, plus works from the completed in 1913 Caucasus. and opened to the At Meydanı Sok. 46, public a year later. In İbrahim Paşa Sarayı, Sultanahmet. 1983 it was moved to T: 0212 518 1805. www.tiem.gov.tr its current location, the

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events and ceremonies, the museum hosts various Miniatürk Sightseeing events. Wed-Mon 9am-4.45pm. Requires prior Covering an area of 60,000 square metres, appointment by phone. TL 20. Topkapı Palace 1st Miniatürk is the largest model park in the world, Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnıcı) Courtyard, Sultanahmet, Eminönü. displaying 105 1/25 scale models of major The largest covered cistern in İstanbul, named after T: 0212 512 0480. F5. structures in the Turkish and former Ottoman a basilica once located nearby. Built during the region. Open daily between 9am and 7pm. reign of Justinian I (527-565) to provide water for Hagia Sophia Museum Admission fee: TL 10. www.miniaturk.com.tr. neighbouring palaces. 143m long, 65m wide, (Ayasofya Müzesi) Borsa Durağı Mevkii. İmrahor Cad. Sütlüce. with a total area of 9,800 square metres. Open Built between 532 and 537 by Byzantine Emperor T: 0212 222 2882. Off map. daily between 9am and 5.30 pm Admission fee: TL Justinian I in the old city centre, Hagia Sophia, or 20. www.yerebatan.com. Alemdar Mah. Yerebatan Church of the Holy Wisdom, is the oldest and most Ottomanya Cad. 1/3, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 522 1259. F5. quickly constructed cathedral in the world, and Designed with educational fun in mind, the Cistern Of Philoxenos fourth largest in terms of its area. A masterpiece family attraction Ottomanya teaches Ottoman of art, history and architecture, it served two culture through entertaining interactive games (Binbirdirek Sarnıcı) Abrahamic religions -916 years as the central and workshops, and by experiencing the life of The second-largest water reservoir in İstanbul church of the Byzantine Empire and 477 years as an Ottoman city dweller. Combining art, history, after the Basilica Cistern, this structure was built mosque - before being converted into a museum entertainment and technology, Ottomanya in the 4th century according to Byzantine sources. in 1935. Tue-Sun 9am-5pm. Admission fee: TL 30. includes game areas, a movie theatre, workshops When Emperor Constantine I rebuilt the city, it Museum Pass Point Ayasofya Meydanı, and gift shops in a 3,800 square meter space. was constructed to provide water to the Byzantine Sultanahmet. T: 0212 522 0989. F5. Daily 10am-10pm. www.ottomanya.com. palace. Columns bear pyramid-shaped capitals. Mall of Istanbul, Ziyagökalp Mah. Süleyman The Cistern of Philoxenos serves as a museum İstanbul Aquarium Demirel Bulvarı, Mahmutbey, Başakşehir. today. Daily 9am-8pm. Admission fee: TL 10. The İstanbul Aquarium is the world’s largest T: 0212 801 0460. Off map. www.binbirdirek.com. İmran Öktem Sok. 4, thematic aquarium, and has received huge positive Binbirdirek, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 518 1001. F5. response from the public. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sapphire Observation Deck Dolmabahçe Palace Museum Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. www.istanbulakvaryum.com. A hot destination since the day it opened, Şenlikköy Mah. Yeşilköy Halkalı Cad. 93, Florya. Sapphire’s observation deck offers a stunning 360° (Dolmabahçe Sarayı Müzesi) T: 0212 444 9744. Off map. panorama that takes in the Galata Tower, Hagia Commissioned by Sultan Abdülmecit I, this palace Sophia, the Bosphorus and more. Daily 10am-10pm. was built between 1843 and 1856. It reflects the Jurassic Land www.istanbulsapphire.com. Emniyet Evleri, Western influence in Ottoman architecture in Jurassic Land invites you to discover the world Eski Büyükdere Cad. 1/1, Levent. the late 18th century. Design contains eclectic of the dinosaurs, where these most magnificent T: 0212 268 8383. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). elements from the baroque, rococo and creatures – the last of which died out 65 million neoclassical styles. It served as Atatürk’s residence years ago – come back to life. Designed in an Sea Life Aquarium during the early Republican Period and hosted ‘edutainment’ concept combining fun and Turkey’s first public aquarium, Sea Life Aquarium many high level foreign guests before being education. Daily 10am-8pm. Museum Pass is situated in the huge Forum İstanbul shopping converted into a museum. Daily open except centre. In addition to observing marine life, visitors Advantage Point (15% discount on tickets) Mon&Thu 9am-4pm. Admission fee: TL 40. www.jurassicland.com.tr. Forum İstanbul, Kocatepe can also experience one of the most breath taking www.dolmabahce.gov.tr. Dolmabahçe Cad. Mah. Paşa Cad. Bayrampaşa. T: 0212 640 8088. activities of a life time; Diving with Sharks. Mon-Sun Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 9000. B7. Shopping Centre Map (p.36). 10am-8pm. www.visitsealife.com. Forum İstanbul Shopping Center, Kocatepe Mah. Paşa Cad. 5/5, Galata Tower (Galata Kulesi) Maiden’s Tower (Kız Kulesi) Bayrampaşa. T: 0212 640 2740. Located in the Galata district, it was built in 1348 by Built on a small Bosphorus islet off the coast of Shopping Centre Map (p.36). the Genoese in addition to the city walls to defend Üsküdar, the Maiden’s Tower has been at the the region from outside attacks. The tower has centre of many myths. According to one, it was Yıldız Palace, Şale Mansion a superb panoramic view of the Bosphorus, the built by an emperor to protect his daughter who he (Yıldız Sarayı, Şale Köşk) Golden Horn and the city. The restaurant located saw die of snakebite in a dream. The effort proved Part of Yıldız Palace, Şale Köşk is one of the most at the top floor of the tower offers Turkish and futile as the snake hid itself in a fruit basket and fascinating examples of 19th-century Ottoman international dishes. Daily 9am-8.30pm. bit her anyway. Having served as a customshouse, architecture. It consists of three main buildings Admission fee: TL 18,5. www.galatatower.net. watchtower, lighthouse, radar station, and constructed in between 1880 and 1898, located Bereketzade Mah. Büyük Hendek Cad. 2, Kuledibi, warehouse throughout its 2,500-year history, it in a garden surrounded by high walls. Its last two Şişhane. T: 0212 293 8180. D4. also marked the entrance of the Bosphorus. The sections were constructed to host Kaiser Wilhelm foundations and most of the lower storey of the II during his visit to İstanbul. Daily except Mon-Thu Galata Mevlevihanesi tower were built during the reign of Mehmet 9am-5pm. www.millisaraylar.gov.tr. Admission fee: Founded in the late 15th century, this Mevlevi II, and it took its final shape during the reign of TL 10. Palanga Cad. 53, Yıldız, Beşiktaş. lodge is a fine place to acquaint yourself with the Mahmut II. Daily 9am-12am. Museum cafe Mon-Fri T: 0212 259 8977. A8. Islamic Mystic philosophy and practices which 9am-5pm, Sat-Sun 9am-5.30pm. Live music-dinner hold such an important place Anatolia’s cultural (Reservations required) 8.15pm-12.30am. Museum heritage. Operating as a museum since the last Pass Advantage Point (25% off adult tickets and museums quarter of the 20th century, this historical site 20% discount on Breakfast/Lunch/Dinner/Brunch consists of three floors, including the Semâhâne, Adam Mickiewicz Museum purchases) www.kizkulesi.com.tr. where the dervishes perform their famous ritual Residence of one of Poland’s three national poets, Salacak Mevkii, Üsküdar. T: 0216 343 4747. D7. whirling dance. The museum’s collection also who came to Turkey during the Crimean War to organize the Polish troops on the allied side. includes calligraphic panels, musical instruments, Mall of İstanbul Sledding Run Tue-Sun 9.30am-4.30pm. Admission free. Serdar costumes and other items from Mevlevi culture. As part of its Winter Festival, the Mall of İstanbul Ömer Cad. Tatlı Badem Sok. 17, Dolapdere. Daily open except Mondays 9am-4.30pm. offers the best of winter fun with Turkey’s longest T: 0212 237 2545. B5. Museum Pass Point sledging run. Its three different courses, a total of www.galatamevlevihanesimuzesi.gov. tr. 300 meters long, it allows 50 people to sledge at Aşiyan Museum Galip Dede Cad. 15, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 4141. D5. the same time. There’s also an ice rink at the end of Residence of prominent poet and writer Tevfik the run. Open for three months, it lets you get your Hagia Irene Museum (Aya İrini Müzesi) Fikret. Personal belongings of Tevfik Fikret and fill of winter fun! Daily 10am-10pm. Located in the outer courtyard of the Topkapı Abdülhak Hamid as well as photographs and www.mallofistanbul.com.tr. Mall of Istanbul, Palace, Hagia Irene is a Byzantine structure dating belongings of other prominent members of the Ziyagökalp Mah. Süleyman Demirel Bulvarı, back to the 4th century. It is the second largest Edebiyat-ı Cedide literary movement. Free of Mahmutbey, Başakşehir. T: 0212 801 0460. Byzantine church after Hagia Sophia and the only charge. Tue-Sat 9am-4pm. Bebek, Aşiyan Yolu 15, Off map. one with a surviving atrium. Also open for special Beşiktaş. T: 0212 263 6986. Off map.

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foremost of its kind in the world. It is actually three different museums under the same administration: The Archaeological Museum, the Ancient Orient Museum (Eski Şark Eserleri Müzesi) and Tiled Kiosk Museum (Çinili Köşk Müzesi), which together form an outstanding attraction in the city. www.istanbularkeoloji.gov.tr. Tue-Sun 9am-6pm. Admission fee: TL 15. Museum Pass Point

(10% discount at the Shop and Café) Cankurtaran Mah., Alemdar Cad. Osman Hamdi Bey Yokuşu, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 520 7740. E5. İstanbul Modern Non-profit cultural institution offering exhibitions and events held with the support of private individuals, institutions and establishments as well as local governments through joint projects. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu 10am-8pm. Admission fee: TL 17. www.istanbulmodern.org. Meclisi Mebusan Cad. Liman İşletmeleri Müd. Antrepo 4, Karaköy. T: 0212 334 7300. D5. Museum for the History of Science and Technology in Islam (İstanbul İslam Bilim ve Teknoloji Tarihi Müzesi) This museum displays modern copies of inventions and discoveries by Muslim scholars which were used for centuries but largely forgotten. The displays illustrate clearly how works of Islamic science in areas including astronomy, geography, mathematics, optics, medicine, chemistry, technology and architecture were discovered, reached Europe via various routes, and gradually absorbed into those cultures. Wed-Mon 9am-

6pm. Museum Pass Point Gülhane Parkı İçi, Eminönü, Fatih. www.ibttm.org. T: 0212 528 8065. E5.

Mustafa Kemal Museum This three-storey house in the Akaretler Row Houses, where the founder of the Turkish Republic Mustafa Kemal Atatürk stayed frequently between 1912 and 1919, was also the residence of his mother Zübeyde Hanım, his sister Makbule Atadan and his adopted son, Abdurrahim Tunçak. Now a museum Magnificent Mosaics displaying Atatürk’s belongings and historical items from the time. Daily 9am-4pm. Admission and Frescoes free. Süleyman Seba Cad. Akaretler Sıraevler, 36, A former Byzantine church that served as a mosque during the Ottoman period, the Chora Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 3329. A7. Museum (Kariye Müzesi) serves today as a museum. A typical Byzantine structure, the Military Museum (Askeri Müze) museum’s rather simple brick exterior belies the spectacular mosaics, marble facings and Constructed in 1841 as a Military Academy, this ornamental bas-reliefs inside (p. 14). building serves today as the Military Museum. 5,000 objects selected from the museum’s collection of 45,000 items include arms, uniforms, tents, flags, swords, helmets and Ottoman-era Beylerbeyi Palace Museum magnificent mosaics and frescos are among the artefacts. One of the oldest military bands in the (Beylerbeyi Sarayı Müzesi) finest examples of Byzantiane art. Daily except Wed world, the Janissary Band gives concerts between Built by architect Serkis Balyan during the reign 9am-6pm. Admission fee: TL 15. Museum Pass 3 and 4pm. Wed-Sun 9am-5pm. Admission fee: of Sultan Abdülaziz (1861-1865), this replaced the Point Ayvansaray Mah. Kariye Camii Sok. 26, TL 4. www.tsk.tr. Valikonağı Cad. 2, Harbiye. previous wooden waterfront palace. Previously Edirnekapı, Fatih. T: 0212 631 9241. C2. T: 0212 233 2720. B6. it was generally used in summers, particularly to Doğançay Museum host foreign heads of state including the Prince Naval Museum (Deniz Müzesi) Housed in an historical 5-storey building, this of Serbia, King of Montenegro, Shah of Iran and Largest maritime museum in Turkey and among the museum presents paintings by Adil Doğançay and French Empress Eugenie. Garden contains a most important worldwide with its rich collection his world-renowned son Burhan Doğançay. Free of cafeteria and sales booths. Daily except Mon&Thu of 40,000 items. Barges, marine uniforms, charge. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free. 9am-5pm. Admission fee: TL 20. Abdullahağa Cad. manuscripts, scale models, standards, maps, www.dogancaymuseum.org. Hüseyin Ağa Mah. Beylerbeyi, Üsküdar. T: 0216 321 9320. Off map. paintings, sultans’ seals, coats of arms, galleys, Balo Sok. 42, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 7770. C5. navigation tools and weaponry. Tue-Sat 9am-5pm, Chora Museum (Kariye Müzesi) İstanbul Archaeological Museums Admission fee: TL 6. www.denizmuzeleri.tsk.tr. First built as part of a monastery in 534, this is the (İstanbul Arkeoloji Müzeleri) Deniz Müzesi Komutanlığı, Barbaros Hayrettin Cad. only remaining structure from a larger complex. Founded in 1891 by painter and archaeologist Beşiktaş. T: 0212 327 4345. B7. Since its construction, it has seen major renovations Osman Hamdi Bey, this museum houses artefacts in the 11th and 14th centuries. The modern Panorama 1453 History Museum from the many civilizations that have left their building consists mostly of the portions renovated Witness the conquest of İstanbul 560 years later marks upon history. It is also the first museum during the Ottoman and Republican periods. Its and relive the moment Mehmet II entered the city. founded in Turkey, and considered one of the ten

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Open daily between 8am and 6pm Admission fee: gift shop purchases) www.rmk-museum.org.tr. an art and culture centre. Highlights include the TL 10. www.panoramikmuze.com. Maltepe Mah., Hasköy Cad. 5, Hasköy. T: 0212 369 6600. B3. old engine rooms preserved to establish an Energy Topkapı Kültür Parkı Panorama 1453 Tarih Müzesi Museum, plus contemporary art exhibitions and Sadberk Hanım Museum Topkapı, Zeytinburnu. T: 0212 415 1453. Off map. cultural events. Tue-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am- Funded by the Vehbi Koç Foundation, this museum 8pm. Admission fee: TL 15. Pera Museum is located in a renovated old waterfront mansion. www.santralistanbul.org. Eski Silahtarağa Founded by the Suna and İnan Kıraç Foundation, Exhibiting a collection of archaeological artefacts, Elektrik Santralı, Kazım Karabekir Cad. 2/6, Eyüp. museum hosts three permanent collections it earned the 1988 Europa Nostra Award for its T: 0212 311 7809. Off map. including Anatolian weights and measures, Kütahya modern museum practices. Thu-Tue 10am-5pm. tiles and ceramics, and orientalist art, consisting of Admission fee: TL 7. Museum Pass Advantage TBMM Department of National Palaces 300 paintings. Tue-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 12am-6pm. Point (You can buy the ticket with a special discount) Art Museum Admission fee: TL 10. Museum Pass Advantage www.sadberkhanimmuzesi.org.tr. Büyükdere The Apartment of the Heir Apparent at Point (20% off adult tickets and 10% discount on Cad. 25/29, Sarıyer. T: 0212 242 3813. Off map. Dolmabahçe Palace, itself an architectural symbol Perakende Artshop and Pera Café) of the princes’ adoption of a free lifestyle, has been Sakıp Sabancı Museum www.peramuzesi.org.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 65, converted into a world-class museum. Opened in The main building of this museum is a villa built in Tepebaşı. T: 0212 334 9900. C5. March 2014, the museum displays 202 paintings 1927 by Italian architect Eduard De Nari for Prince depicting the late Ottoman Empire. 174 of the Press Museum (Basın Müzesi) Muhammad Ali Hasan of the Egyptian Khedive works are from the National Palaces Collection; Transformed into a museum in 1988, this is the family. Purchased by the Sabancı Family in 1950. In the remaining 28 are from Topkapı Palace. first press museum in Turkey and the fourth in the 1998, it was given to Sabancı University along with Tue-Wed 9am-5pm. Fri-Sun 9am-5pm. world. The incredible variety of objects exhibited its collections and furniture to serve as a museum. www.dolmabahce.gov.tr. Dolmabahçe Cad. includes lithography samples, platen machines, The mansion houses a rich calligraphy and painting Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 9000. B7. letterpresses, proofing tables, old typewriters and collection. Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 10am-6pm. telex machines. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Admission 10am-8pm, Wed 10am-8pm. Free entrance at The Carpet Museum free. Divanyolu Cad. 76, Çemberlitaş. Wednesdays. Museum Pass Advantage Point (TL Home to one of the world’s most extensive carpet T: 0212 513 8458. F4. 8 for adult ticket and 10% discount on Museum Gift collections, the Charitable Foundations Carpet Shop) www.sakipsabancimuzesi.org. Sakıp Rahmi M. Koç Museum Museum’s houses historic carpets of high artistic Sabancı Cad. 42, Emirgan. T: 0212 277 2200. Off map. The first major museum in Turkey dedicated value, traditionally bequeathed to mosques according to ancient Islamic tradition. From the to the history of transportation, industry and Santralistanbul 14th to 20th centuries and created with regional communication. Located on the shores of the The first power plant in the Ottoman Empire, designs in Anatolia’s various weaving centres, Golden Horn, its collection includes thousands of this complex was later upgraded in keeping with Turkish carpets and prayer rugs plus Iranian and objects from gramophone needles to ships and advances in technology and served İstanbul until Caucasian pieces make a dazzling display. aircrafts. Tue-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. 1983 as the Silahtarağa Power Plant. Now within Cankurtaran Mah. Bab-ı Hümayun Cad. Admission fee: TL 12,50. Museum Pass Advantage the campus of a private university, the historical Soğukçeşme Sok. Fatih. www.halimuzesi.com. Point (20% off adult tickets and 10% discount on building has recently been renovated to serve as T: 0212 512 6993. Off map.

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mosque, visitors should cover their arms and legs; stained glass. Süleymaniye, Beyazıt. The Museum of Innocence The Masumiyet Müzesi (‘Museum of Innocence’), women should cover their heads. T: 0212 532 0623. E3/E4. inspired by the 2008 novel of the same name Eyüp Sultan Mosque Valide Sultan Mosque (Yeni Camii) by Nobel prize-winner Orhan Pamuk, is the first Located in Eyüp on the northern tip of the Golden Located in Eminönü Square next to the Egyptian museum in history inspired by a novel and made Horn, where one of the first followers of Islam, Ayyub Bazaar (Spice Market), this mosque in the centre reality. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission fee: El-Ensari was buried after he was killed during the of a complex is one of the most glorious of the TL 25. Museum Pass Advantage Point (30% off Arab siege of Constantinople. Mehmed II ordered monumental mosques built on the coastline. It was adult tickets, 10% discount on Museum Gift Shop the construction of a shrine and a mosque on the commissioned by Safiye Sultan in 1597 and built by and Café) www.masumiyetmuzesi.org. location. The first mosque, which was completed in Architect Davud Ağa, an apprentice of Sinan. Çukurcuma Cad. Dalgıç Çıkmazı, 2, Beyoğlu. 1458, was later destroyed, with the present structure Upon his death in 1598, Dalgıç Ahmet Çavuş T: 0212 252 9738. C5. constructed by Uzun Hüseyin Efendi between 1798 became its architect. Largely destroyed by a fire in The Quincentennial Foundation and 1800. Eyüp. T: 0212 418 9393. A1. 1660, it was reopened in 1665. Eminönü. E4. Museum Of Turkish Jews Hirka-i Şerif Mosque (500. Yıl Vakfı Türk Musevileri Müzesi) Built in 1851 by Sultan Abdülmecid in Ottoman churches AND (Also Known As Jewish Museum) style, to house the Hırka-ı Şerif (the cloak of the Historical documents, information and objects Prophet Mohammed presented to him by Uwais al- SYNAGOGUES documenting the 700-year of history of Jewry in the Qarani) this mosque is open throughout the month Churches and synagogues hold an important place Ottoman Empire. A work by sculptor Nadia Arditti of Ramadan. Daily 10am-4.30pm. Fatih. in the vast cultural geography of İstanbul, which to commemorate the Turkish-Jewish soldiers fallen T: 0212 631 6453. D2. has served as capital of three major empires over while defending their country greets visitors at the 1,600 years. The following are the most important entrance. Mon-Thu 10am-4pm, Fri&Sun 10am-2pm. Kılıç Ali Paşa Mosque of Istanbul’s churches and synagogues for their Admission fee: TL 10. www.muze500.com. This mosque, designed by Mimar Sinan, resembles history and architecture. Synagogues require a Karaköy Meydanı, Perçemli Sok. 1 (Behind Selanik a small Hagia Sophia, and is adorned with famous permit, available from the İstanbul Chief Rabbinate. Arcade), Karaköy. T: 0212 292 6333. D5. Iznik tiles of the period. It also includes a külliye, or T: 0212 293 8794. complex consisting of a Turkish bath, a tomb and a Topkapı Palace (Topkapı Sarayı) madrassah. Tophane, Beyoğlu. D5. Armenian Patriarchate Built in 1478, during the reign of Mehmet II (the Just a 20-minute walk from Hagia Sophia, the Blue Conqueror), Topkapı Palace served as the seat Nuruosmaniye Mosque Mosque and Topkapı Palace. In 2001, almost the of government of the Ottoman Empire and Commissioned by Sultan Mahmut I in 1748, this entire Armenian community of İstanbul celebrated the residence of Sultans for 380 years, until mosque was completed during the reign of his the 540th anniversary of the Armenian Patriarchate the construction of Dolmabahçe Palace. It was brother Osman III, built by Mustafa Aga. With its at this church. Open Mon-Fri 9am-4pm. organised as a museum during the reign of baroque style and the three-dimensional stone Sevgi Sok. 6, Kumkapı. T: 0212 517 0970. B4. Abdülhamid II, but not opened to the public until patterns, it is one of its kind in world architecture. 1924. It consists of several sections, including The mosque’s two minarets feature the first stone Ayios Dimitrios Church the Imperial Gate, the First Courtyard (Court of combs used instead of lead ones. Nuruosmaniye, Unusually for a 16th century Greek Orthodox the Janissaries), the Second Courtyard (Divan Eminönü. T: 0212 513 0692. E4. church, it displays clear Ottoman architectural Square), the Third Courtyard (Enderun Courtyard), influence. Formerly the church of Ayios Athanasios, Ortaköy Mosque the Fourth Courtyard (Imperial Sofa) and the it is said to have changed its name when an icon of Located next to Ortaköy Pier, this mosque was Harem. Guided tours in the Harem section require St. Dimitrios was brought here from a small church commissioned by Sultan Abdülmecit to Karabet additional ticket purchase. Wed-Mon 9am-4.45pm. in the Kasımpaşa district. Kurtuluş Square, the last Balyan. The structure underwent restoration Admission fee: TL 30. Harem, 9am-4.45pm. bus stop on Kurtuluş Cad. Ateşböceği Sok. 2, Şişli. between 1960 and 1972. It is a baroque structure Admission fee: TL 15. Museum Pass Point T: 0212 250 6248. Off map. featuring a single dome with two slim minarets. www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr. Sultanahmet Meydanı. White stone was used for walls, mosaic and T: 0212 512 0480. E5. Beth Israel Synagogue marble for the mihrab, and porphyry for the pulpit. Built in 1920, this synagogue provides religious Yıldız Palace Museums Ortaköy, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 359 5908. A9. services under the Neve Shalom Foundation. (Yıldız Sarayı Müzeleri) It is the most active synagogue in Turkey. Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque Complex of former imperial Ottoman pavilions and Bomonti, Kazım Orbay Cad.Efe Sok. 29, Şişli. One of the most famous landmarks of the Turkish villas representing the last examples of Ottoman T: 0212 240 6599. Off map. and Islamic world, Sultanahmet Mosque is a highly palace architecture. The first building in the area admired structure by all visitors. An example of was constructed during the reign of Ahmet I in Church Of St. George Of Fener Greek classical Turkish art, it is the only one of its kind to the 17th century. The palace in its current form Orthodox Patriarchate be originally built with six minarets, and stands out was built at the order of Abdülhamid II in 1880, The centre of the Orthodox Christian world, this on the city’s skyline from the Bosphorus. It is also who wanted his seat of government beyond church hosts many relics including the column on known as the Blue Mosque for the İznik tiles that the reach of bombardment from the sea. Items which Jesus was whipped and remains of three adorn its interior. Entering the structure through exhibited today originally belonged to the palace, great saints. Fener Rum Patrikhanesi, Dr. Sadık one of its three gates, visitors are greeted by its rich including Abdülhamid II’s personal belongings Ahmet Cad. 35, Haliç. T: 0212 531 5152. C3. and colourful ornamentation including engravings, and gifts presented to him, and products of the tiles and stained glass windows that complement Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church Yıldız Porcelain Factory still located on the palace the grandeur of its exterior. Sultanahmet. Located at the intersection of Sıraselviler Street and premises. Wed-Mon 9am-4pm. T: 0212 458 4468. F4/F5. İstiklal Street in Taksim, this church is a synthesis of www.yildizsarayi.com. Admission fee: TL 10. Byzantine and modern architecture with a cruciform Museum Pass Point Yıldız, Beşiktaş. Süleymaniye Mosque plan and twin bell towers. Daily 9am-5pm. T: 0212 258 3080. A8. Commissioned by Sultan Süleyman I (Süleyman the Meşelik Sok. 11/1, Taksim. T: 0212 244 1358. C5. Magnificient), this mosque was built between 1550- 1557 by Sinan the Architect. Described as a work St. Anthony Of Padua Church MOSQUES from Sinan’s apprenticeship period, the mosque is Roman Catholic church with the largest İstanbul’s mosques are among the most actually part of the Süleymaniye Complex (Külliye), congregation in İstanbul. The entrance to the outstanding witnesses to the city’s long history. also including a madrasah (religious school), church is between the two apartment buildings Each has a unique history and architecture, and library, hospital, bath, soup kitchen, treasury where priests reside. Reinforced concrete is open to visitors at vario times of the day. and shops. Resting on four massive columns, the construction built in Italian neo-Gothic style by The following is a list of some of the highlights. mosque’s dome is 53 metres high and 26.5 metres architect Guillio Mongeri. Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Most open daily from dawn to sunset. in diameter. Its interior is subtly decorated, with Sun 9am-12.30pm, 2pm-5pm. No admittance during the Friday prayer times the windows on the mihrab wall executed in with İstiklal Cad. 171, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu. between approx 12pm-1pm. Before entering the T: 0212 244 0935. C5.

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Fascinating Byzantine Health Secrets Beliefs The exhibition, Hayat Kısa, Sanat Uzun: Bizans’ta Şifa Sanatı (‘Life is The exhibition also explains Short, Art Long: The Art of Healing in Byzantium’) at the Pera Museum daily rituals practiced from the Roman to Byzantine period explores the world of medicine from the Byzantine to late Roman intended to preserve health, periods (to 26 Apr). protect from disease and demons, and purify the body urated by Brigitte Pitarakis, it takes a and soul. fascinating look at the healing practices Cof the Byzantines and their main figureheads. These were based on religion (Apollo), magic (Asklepios), and the founders of rational medicine and pharmacology, Hippocrates and Dioscorides (religion, magic, rational medicine), the healing centres and ‘doctor-saints’ of Byzantium. Artefacts on display include medical and botanical manuscripts, beautifully carved marble objects, amulets, medical instruments, rare printed books and archival photographs.

Meşrutiyet Cad. 65, Tepebaşı. T: 0212 334 9900 www.peramuzesi.org.tr

18 WHERE İstanbul I MARCH 2015 GALLERIES

Akbank Sanat address themes of being a student, education and Gallery İdil From 11 Mar: Niekolaas Johannes Lekkerkerk, school. Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. 4-28 Mar: Painter Zeki Kıral, aged 69, exhibits winner of the Akbank Sanat International Curator www.dairesanat.com. Boğazkesen Cad. 76A, original pieces inspired by the art of calligraphy. Competition, assembles works by 14 artists in the Tophane, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 5259. C5. Mon-Sat 11am-6pm. www.galeriidil.com.tr. exhibition Sesle Avlanan (‘Percussive Hunter’). Doğançay Museum Valikonağı Cad. 45-47, Nişantaşı. Tue-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. T: 0 212 283 2383. A6. To 7 Jun: In recognition of the museum’s 10th www.akbanksanat.com. İstiklal Cad. 8, Beyoğlu. anniversary, the exhibition Picture the World: Galerist T: 0212 252 3500-01. C5. Burhan Doğançay as Photographer is a collection To 21 Mar: Eureka, curated by South African artist ALAN İstanbul of nearly 100 photographs by Burhan Doğançay. Kendell Geers, consists of photographs, videos, To 14 Mar: In Küçük Harfli Tarih (‘History in Mon-Sun 10am-6pm. www.dogancaymuseum.org. sculptures and installations by international artists Lovercase’), artist Ceylan Öztürk refers to a Balo Sok. 42, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 7770. C5. that transform the body into a vehicle for protest. historian’s subjective viewpoint and explores the Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. www.galerist.com.tr. Meşrutiyet Gallery Apel individuality of the artist in the writing of history. Cad. 67 K1, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 1896. C4. To 28 Mar: Yeni Gün (‘Newruz’) presents works by Tue-Fri 11am-7pm. Sat 1pm-7pm. İstanbul and Diyarbakır artists that deal with the Gallery Selvin 1 www.alanistanbul.com. Asmalı Mescit Cad. 5/2, 21 March Newruz (spring equinox) festival and its 9-29 Mar: Modern Turkish painter Gencay Kasapçı Tünel, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 9453. C5. symbols of spring, nature, reproduction, creation presents recent works in his exhibition Noktanın Almelek Art Gallery and peace. Tue-Sat 11.30am-6.30pm. Sonsuzluğu 2 (‘The Infinity of Dot’). Tue-Sat From 21 Mar: Objektiften Tuvale Nostalji www.galleryapel.com. Hayriye Cad. 5A, 11am-7pm. www.galeriselvin.com. Dere Sok. 3, (‘Nostalgia from the Lens to the Canvas’) consists Galatasaray. T: 0212 292 7236. C5. Arnavutköy, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 263 7481. Off map. of photographs of old İstanbul by renowned local photographer Ara Güler, rendered on canvas by painter Erol Deran. Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. www.almelekartgallery.com. Cevdetpaşa Cad. 99/1 Bebek. T: 0212 265 3851. Off map.

ART350 To 12 Apr: Brigitte Spiegeler’s solo exhibition Mekânların İzinde (‘Tracing the Locus’) portray a clear reflection of travellers in different countries, cities and spaces. Daily 11am-7pm. www.art350.com. Bağdat Cad. 350, Erenköy. T: 0216 369 8050. Off map. Arter To 5 Apr: The exhibition Zamancı (‘Timekeeper’) presents 25 videos selected from various periods and series by Ali Kazma, focusing on his ten-year artistic journey. Many of the works are on display in Turkey for the first time. Tue-Thu 11am-7pm, Fri-Sun noon-8pm. www.arter.org.tr. İstiklal Cad. 211, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 3767. C5. Block Art Space To 28 Feb: The group exhibition, Dalgalar (‘Waves’) shows works by Turkey’s best new media artists in the genres of information, art and technology. The exhibits range from basic elements of nature, such as sound and light, to the brain, financial fluctuations and the tides of everyday life. Tue-Sat 11am-6.30pm. www.blokartspace.com. Faik Paşa Cad. 22, D:2, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 8382. C5.

Borusan Contemporary To 22 Mar: Ortak Zemin: Toprak, Su, Hava (‘Common Ground: Soil, Water, Air’) – the second of the ‘Selections from the Borusan Contemporary Collection’ exhibition series centres upon the theme of Water. The works feature representations of water in a natural and cultural context. Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. www.borusancontemporary.com. Perili Köşk, Baltalimanı Hisar Cad. Rumeli Hisarı, Sarıyer. T: 0212 393 5200. Off map.

Bozlu Art Project To 21 Mar: In his sculpture exhibition Kırmızı Çizgi (‘Red Line’), Evren Erol’s works use metaphors for the relationships between change, opposition, rejection and acceptance. Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. www.bozluartproject.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 45/131, Unlimited Works Galerist continues its ‘Carte Blanche’ series with Eureka, an exhibition İsmet Apt. D:1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 232 7232. A6. curated by South Afrcian artist Kendell Geers. The exhibits, by international Daire Art Gallery artists who turn the body into a vehicle for protest, continues until 21 To 28 Mar: The group exhibition Çoktan Seçmeli March (p. 19). (‘Multiple Choice’) brings several artists together to

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Gallery Zilberman To 7 Mar: The joint exhibition Ne Dedin Ne? PG ART GALLERY (‘Say What?’) brings a variety of artistic positions Yonca Karakaş, p. 21 together to examine how global capitalism affects Fairs society, and the conditions of belonging in various countries. Tue-Fri 11am-7.30pm, Sat noon-7pm. www.galerizilberman.com. İstiklal Cad. Mısır Apt. CNR BOOK FAIR 163, K:3 Beyoğlu. T: 0212 251 1214. C5. The CNR Book Fair is attended by over 250 publishing houses and civil society Hobi Gallery organizations. 5-24 Mar: Yeditepe İstanbul (‘Seven Hills Istanbul’) www.cnrkitapfuari.com brings together Turkish impressionists Ayhan To 8 Mar Türker, Muhsin Kut and Mustafa Pilevneli, who CNR Expo Yeşilköy present their diverse views of İstanbul through different techniques, styles and approaches. Tue- Sat 11am-6pm. www.hobigaleri.com. Valikonağı Cad. Pasaj 73, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 2337. A6.

Hush Gallery To 9 Mar: In Personhood II, Greek artist Manolis Anastasakos embodies the tense atmosphere created in 2010 by the IMF and EUs monitoring of Greece in 2010, as well as by the media’s provocation. Mon-Sun 11am-7pm. İSTANBUL JEWELLERY SHOW 2015 www.hushgallery.org. Rasimpaşa Mah. Considered the most important event in İskele Sok. 29/A, Kadıköy. T: 0532 285 4904. the jewellery and timepiece industry, the Off map. ubiquitousness, similarities and dissociation from Istanbul Jewellery Show is a meeting point their surroundings. To 15 Mar: Gülşah Bayraktar for over 1,250 companies in the jewellery, İstanbul’74 presents miniatures constructed on wood surfaces, diamond, precious stone, pearl, silver, watch From 18 Mar: Exhibition by exciting modern artist in her exhibition Kendine Yakın (‘Closer to Self’). and equipment sectors. Robert Montgomery, using a wide variety of Tue-Sat 11am-7pm, Sun noon-6pm. www.istanbuljewelryshow.com techniques from light installations to watercolours. www.mixerarts.com. Tomtom Mah. Boğazkesen 12-15 Mar Mon-Fri 10am-7pm. www.istanbul74.com. Kuloğlu Cad. 45, Tophane. T: 0212 243 5443. C5. İstanbul Fuar Merkezi Mah. Turnacıbaşı Cad. 9, K: 2, Neşe Apt. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 3948. C5. Pera Museum To 26 Apr: Painter and sculptor Alberto İstanbul Modern Giacometti’s first comprehensive exhibition in To 12 Mar: İstanbul Modern hosts the Artists’ Turkey, created with a retrospective approach, Film International programme, which focuses on presents his fruitful artistic life in his Montparnasse modern video art and takes visual artists’ moving workshop. To 26 Apr: Exploring a slice of world works, animations and films to all corners of the medical history, the exhibition Hayat Kısa, Sanat world. To 28 Jun: Ressam ve Resim: Mehmet Uzun: Bizans’ta Şifa Sanatı (‘Life Is Short, Art Long: Güleryüz Retrospektifi (‘A Painter and Painting: The Art of Healing in Byzantium’) examines the A Mehmet Güleryüz Retrospective’) highlights art and practice of healing from the late Roman the rich expressive journey and transformation period through the late Byzantine period. Tue-Sat of Güleryüz’s career from the 1960s to 2010. It 10am-7pm, Sun noon-6pm. www.peramuzesi.org.tr. demonstrates how he explored media such as Meşrutiyet Cad. 65, Tepebaşı. T: 0212 334 9900. C4. İSTANBUL WINDOW 2015 sculpture, engraving, theatre and performance. The 16th İstanbul Window Fair is the second- Tue-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu 10 am-8pm. largest fair in the industry, displaying www.istanbulmodern.org. Meclis-i Mebusan Cad. products by close to 700 brands. Liman İşletmeleri Sahası 305, Antrepo 4, Karaköy. www.istanbulpencerefuari.com T: 0212 334 7300. D5. 11-14 Mar Tüyap Kongre Merkezi İş Sanat Kibele Art Gallery From 6 Mar: İrkildim Uyandım Bir Daha Uyumadım (‘I Was Startled, I Awoke, I Did Not Awake Again’) displays the 50-year artistic career of renowned Turkish painter Muzaffer Akyol. The works are based in the Anatolian region and focus on art at the centre of social responsibility. Tue-Sat 10am- 7pm. www.issanat.com.tr. İş Kuleleri, Levent. T: 0212 316 1580. Off map.

Kare Art Gallery To 28 Mar: In her exhibition Subliminal Manzaralar (‘Subliminal Landscapes’), Pakistani artist Mehwish Iqbal presents her prints and textile pieces that explore the place of today’s women and children. ENERGY İSTANBUL Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. www.kareartgallery.com. The Energy and Environmental Technologies Abdi İpekçi Cad. Ada Apt. 22/8 2/F, Nişantaşı. Fair and Conference is attended by T: 0212 240 4448. A6. domestic and foreign investors in the sector. www.cnrenergyistanbul.com Mixer 19-21 Mar To 15 Mar: Yok-yer (‘Non place’) focuses on sanatorıum venues such as airports, entertainment and CNR Expo Nostomania, p. 21 shopping centres, which stand out with their

20 WHERE İstanbul I MARCH 2015 GALLERIES

Pg Art Gallery Pleasure –500 Years of Turkish Coffee’) explores 5-29 Mar: The group exhibition Weltschmerz the history of the beverage, from the botanical (‘World Ache’) presents the work of artists characteristics of the coffee tree and importance Candaş Şişman, Çınar Eslek, Devran Mursaloğlu, in Ottoman culture to its spread through the world. Jak Baruh, Kerem Ozan Bayraktar and Yonca The exhibition features 800 artefacts dating to the Karakaş, in which they address the perception of 16th to 20th centuries. www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr. reality. Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. Sultanahmet Meydanı. T: 0212 512 0480. E5. www.pgartgallery.com. Boğazkesen Cad. 76/B, Tophane. T: 0212 252 80 00. C5. BOZLU ART PROJECT UniqMüze Kırmızı Çizgi (‘Red Line’), p. 19 To 10 Jun: Muhteşem Yüzyıl: Teşhir-i İhtişam Rahmi M. Koç Museum (‘Magnificent Century: Exhibition of Glory’) To 16 Jun: Consisting of historic miniature houses presents the décor, costumes and accessories intended as toys, collectors’ objects, hobby Berna Gülbey Derman’s recent oil paintings used to create the enchanting atmosphere of the materials and store window decorations Hayallerle depict oppressive patriarchal visuals that reduce popular television programme Muhteşem Yüzyıl Dolu Küçük Evler (‘Dolls’ House’) presents doll women’s bodies to nothing but sexual objects. (‘Magnificent Century’), which which was set during houses created in Germany, France and America www.spacedebrisart.org. Hoca Tahsin Sok. 15/ K:1, the reign of Suleiman I. Daily 10am-8pm. from the 19th century onward. Tue-Fri 10am-5pm, Karaköy. T: 0212 244 2131. Off map. www.uniqistanbul.com. Maslak, Ayazağa Cad. 4, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. www.rmk-museum.org.tr. Sarıyer. T: 0212 276 0156. Off map. Hasköy Cad. 5, Hasköy. T: 0212 369 6600. B3. Topkapı Palace (Topkapı Sarayı) To 10 Mar: Hattat Neyzen ve Bestekar Kadıasker Zorlu Center PSM Sadberk Hanım Museum Mustafa İzzet Efendi (‘Calligrapher, Ney Player To 8 Mar: The World Wildlife Fund has worked To 31 May: Pabuç, Sadberk Hanım Müzesi and Composer Kadıasker Mustafa İzzet Efendi’) towards the preservation of nature in Turkey for 39 Koleksiyonundan (‘Shoes From The Sadberk Hanım includes inscriptions, verse and Hilye-i Şerif years. Doğa Seni Çağırıyor (‘Nature is Calling You’), Museum Collection’) presents women’s enduring (descriptions of the Prophet) and Holy Korans held to benefit the Fund, consists of paintings and passion, shoes, with examples of ornate footwear executed in different calligraphic styles, plus sculptures by 52 different artists. from the early 19th to the early 20th century. Thu- his ney (cane flute) and calligraphic works by his www.zorlucenterpsm.com. Zorlu Center PSM, Tue 10am-5pm. www.sadberkhanimmuzesi.org.tr. teachers and students. To 16 Jun: Bir Taşım Keyif Büyükdere Piyasa Cad. 27-29, Sarıyer. Fuaye Alanı, B3 Katı, C Kapısı önü. – Türk Kahvesinin 500 yıllık öyküsü (‘A Drop of T: 0212 242 3813. Off map. T: 0850 222 6776. Off map. Sakıp Sabancı Museum To 8 Mar: The major new exhibition Kadınlar, Kuşlar, Yıldızlar (‘Women, Birds, Stars’), reveals the mature style of Spanish artist Joan Miró, when women, birds and stars became a major part of his expressive language. Tue-Sun 10 am-6pm, Wed 10am-8pm. www.sakipsabancimuzesi.org. Sakıp Sabancı Cad. 42, Emirgan. T: 0212 277 2200. Off map.

Salt Beyoğlu To 29 Mar: Focusing on the problems and dangers faced by migrants from various lands, Nikolaj Bendix Skyum Larsen dedicates his new installation Düşlerin Sonu (‘End of Dreams’) to the many migrants who have lost their lives while attempting to cross the Mediterranean. Tue-Sat 11am-6pm, Sun noon-8pm. www.saltonline.org. İstiklal Cad. 136, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 377 4200. D5.

Sanatorium To 28 Mar: Erol Eskici’s exhibition Nostomania consists of recent works. In light of the world nostomania, which symbolizes the desire to return to a home scarred by violence, Eskici brings the worlds of children and adults face to face. Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. www.sanatorium.com.tr. Asmalı Mescit Mah. Asmalı Mescit Sok. 32/A, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 6717. C5.

Schneidertempel Sanat Merkezi To 8 Mar: Tan Oral’s cartoon exhibition Eğlencelik (‘For Fun’) presents his views of everyday life in a mirthful language. Mon-Fri 10.30am-5pm. Sun 12am-4pm. www.schneidertempel.com. Felek Sok. No.1 Karaköy. T: 0212 249 0150. Off map. Sismanoglio Megaro Miniature Worlds 7-29 Mar: Konstantinos Kerestetzis’s works reflect his memories of İstanbul. Mon-Fri 3pm-8pm. Gülşah Bayraktar’s recent works in his exhibition Kendine Yakın (‘Close to Self’) focuses on www.sismanogliomegaro.com. Istiklal Cad. 60, how individuals construct their identity. On show at Mixer (to 15 Mar), the artist shares her Galatasaray. T: 0212 244 9335. C5. fantasies as miniatures, created in her own original style with references to photographs

Space Debris Art she found by chance (p. 20). To 22 Mar: In Karşı Duruş (‘Counter Stance’),

MARCH 2015 I İstanbUl WHERE 21 ENTERTAINMENT

Saxophone Legends The Sound Known as the finest tenor saxophonist who ever lived, The Caz Ağacı (‘Jazz Tree’) concert series commemorates the Stan Getz was known as legends of jazz at Salon İKSV (Mar-Apr). ‘The Sound’ for his warm, lyric playing style. He showed his he Jazz Tree series at Salon İKSV skill in the bebop and cool jazz brings together the country’s finest styles popular in the late 1940s, T saxophonists to commemorate the but it was his popularisation of music and lives of saxophone greats Stan Getz bossa nova that earned him his and John Coltrane. Featuring their immortal place in history. work, it brings together vocalists, saxophonists and jazz trios, along with colourful visual effects. The series celebrates its fifth year with its Stan Getz tribute on 21 March at Salon İKSV, with vocals by Sibel Köse, Ülkü Aybala Sunat and Evrim Özşuca, Meriç Demirkol and Tamer Temel on sax, Kürşad Deniz on piano, Volkan Hürsever on bass and Ferit Odman on drums. The concert is hosted by theatre actress Funda Eryiğit.

Nejat Eczacıbaşı Sok. Binası, Sadi Konuralp Cad. 4, Şişhane. T: 0212 334 0841. www.saloniksv.com

22 WHERE İstanbul I MARCH 2015 ENTERTAINMENT

www.theseed.com.tr. Emirgan Mah. Sakıp Sabancı jazz’s most renowned female vocalists, Patricia Cad. 42, Emirgan. T: 0212 323 6050. Off map. Barber performs jazz classics. Nino Moschella feat. Jehan Barbur, 18 Mar, 8.30pm: Multi- Tim Show Center instrumentalist Moschella joins Barbur, a top Fazıl Say, 12 Mar, 9pm: Renowned Turkish vocalist and composer. www.babylon.com.tr. pianist and composer Fazıl Say performs his piece Asmalı Mescit Mah. Şehbender Sok. 3, Beyoğlu. Ses – Opus 40, which he composed in memory T: 0212 292 7368. C5. of the 37 intellectuals who lost their lives in the Sivas-Madımak fire. www.timshowcenter.com. Beyoğlu Hayal Kahvesi Büyükdere Cad. Derbent Mevkii, Maslak. Fredrika Stahl, 14 Mar, 10pm: This offbeat T: 0212 286 6686. Off map. Swedish jazz vocalist performs unusual pieces from her album Off to Dance. CONCERTS: JAZZ www.hayalkahvesibeyoglu.com. Meşelik Sok. 10, Taksim. T: 0212 245 1048. C5. Babylon Erik Truffaz Quartet, 4 Mar, 8.30pm: Erik Truffaz Caddebostan Cultural Centre takes the stage with his own blend of jazz with Fatih Erkoç – Kerem Görsev Trio, 11 Mar, new trends such as electronica, drum ’n bass and 8.30pm: Top Turkish jazz musicians Kerem Görsev hip-hop. Patricia Barber, 15 Mar, 7pm: One of and Fatih Erkoç share the stage. www.ckm.gen.tr.

PATRICIA BARBER 15 Mar, 7pm Babylon, p. 23

CHILDREN İş Sanat Cultural Center Keloğlan, 15 Mar, 3pm: An entertaining performance of the traditional arts of Meddah (storytelling) and ortaoyun (public/street theatre), exhibiting the rich folk poetry and fairy tale traditions of Anatolia. www.issanat.com.tr. İş Kuleleri, Levent. T: 0212 316 1083. Off map. CONCERTS: CLASSICAL İş Sanat Cultural Center London Philharmonic Orchestra with Christoph Eschenbach & Ray Chen, 3 Mar, 8pm: Stunning young violin virtuoso Ray Chen is the guest of the Orchestra, directed by German pianist/conductor Eschenbach. www.issanat.com.tr. İş Sanat Kültür Merkezi, İş Kuleleri, 4. Levent. T: 0212 244 4499. Off map. Lütfi Kırdar Anadolu Auditorium Borusan İstanbul Philharmonic Orchestra – Haydn’s The Seasons, 12 Mar, 8pm: Directed by Sascha Goetzel, the orchestra hosts the Salzburg Bach Chorus in a performance of The Seasons. Borusan İstanbul Philharmonic Orchestra – Michel Camilo, 19 Mar, 8pm: Under the direction of Gürer Aykal, the orchestra welcomes pianist Michel Camilo. www.icec.org. Gümüş Cad. 4, Harbiye. T: 0212 373 1100. A6. Young Master İstanbul Resitalleri Playing the most difficult piano compositions with ease, German pianist Joseph Moog The Seed performs in The Seed as part of the İstanbul Resitalleri concert series (12 Mar). The young Joseph Moog, 12 Mar, 8pm: Skilled German virtuoso will include works of Chopin, Scriabin and Rubinstein in his programme (p. 23). pianist Joseph Moog takes the stage as part of the İstanbul Resitalleri series.

MARCH 2015 I İstanbUl WHERE 23 ENTERTAINMENT

Bağdat Cad. Haldun Taner Sok. 11, Kadıköy. T: 0216 467 3600. Off map.

Nardis Jazz Club Q & A Mikado, 3 Mar, 9.30pm: Inspired by the interplay between music and literature, this group displays a distinct avant-garde style in their performance. Barış Tokgöz Janusz Szprot – Young at Heart, 6 Mar, Turkish band Peyk, on stage at 10.30pm: Pianist and composer Szprot joins Babylon (11 Mar), stands out with its several Turkish and Polish artists. Şallıel Bros, 9 Mar, 9.30pm: The young jazz artists perform own original music, unusual lyrics and their original take on funk, jazz and soul classics. eccentric style. We spoke with lead Flapperswing, 12 Mar, 9.30pm: Consisting of guitarist Tokgöz about their music. guitars, double bass, saxophone and vocals, this band plays jazz pieces from the 1920s and 30s. Luis Ernesto Gomez y La Descarga Band, 13 Mar, 10.30pm: This group blends Latin takes fredrıka stahl on world music with their own compositions and 20 Mar, 10.30pm hot rhythms. Yinon Muallem-Funky Dervish & Beyoğlu Hayal Kahvesi, p. 23 Rast Ensemble, 16 Mar, 9.30pm: Composer and percussion master Yinon Muallem performs Turkish and Jewish music. Ceyda Özbaşarel rock group Vega performs from their most recent Band, 17 Mar, 9.30pm: The band plays their own album, Hafif Müzik (‘Light Music’). Caspa, 20 Mar, compositions plus a modern interpretation of 10pm: London master DJ performs a combination jazz and pop. Dilek Sert Erdoğan-Moments, 21 of dubstep and hip hop sounds. www.babylon. Mar, 10.30pm: Erdoğan performs cult songs from com.tr. Asmalı Mescit Mah. Şehbender Sok. 3, the 80s and 90s with a soul and jazz twist. Önder Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 7368. C5. Focan’s Swing A La Turca, 30 Mar, 9.30pm: Focan and his band play jazz arrangements of Beyoğlu Hayal Kahvesi Turkish semi-classical music. www.nardisjazz.com. Gece Yolcuları, 5 Mar, 10.30pm: Maintaining What does music mean to you? Kuledibi Sok. 8, Galata. T: 0212 244 6327. D5. their place at the top of the charts, this group Of course first of all, music means life itself to define their music as ‘melodic pop-rock’. Aylin all our members. All of us have our day jobs Nublu Aslım, 20 Mar, 10.30pm: Rock vocalist and in a variety of areas, but by writing songs Frankie Chavez, 13 Mar, 11pm: Portuguese songwriter Aslım performs her original songs. guitarist Frankie Chavez plays indie and jazz and making music, we help our dreams Birth of Joy, 26-28 Mar, 10pm: The Dutch rock sounds deeply rooted in the blues. band performs with flawless style. come true and share our feelings about life, www.nubluistanbul.net. Sıraselviler Cad. 55, love, human rights, politics, wars and many www.hayalkahvesibeyoglu.com. Beyoğlu. T: 0533 096 4931. D5. Meşelik Sok. 10, Taksim. T: 0212 245 1048. C5. other issues with others, and reinforce our own friendship. Salon IKSV Bostancı Gösteri Merkezi Stan Getz, 21 Mar, 10.30pm: Widely hailed as Sezen Aksu, 6-7-8 Mar, 9pm: Turkish pop diva Which musicians and composers do the finest-ever tenor saxophonist, the late Stan Sezen Aksu performs three days of concerts for you admire? We all have great respect for Getz is celebrated by top names in the Turkish jazz female audiences during World Women’s Day local poets and composers, like Aşık Veysel, scene in this tribute concert. Phronesis, 27 Mar, week. Göksel, 21 Mar, 9pm: Foremost female Neşet Ertaş, Aşık Mahsuni, Erkan Oğur, 9.30pm: The London-based jazz trio perform from Turkish pop vocalist Göksel performs a program Barış Manço and Cem Karaca. As for world- their recent album, Life to Everything. of old favourites and new hits. famous musicians and groups, Pink Floyd, www.saloniksv.com. Nejat Eczacıbaşı Binası, Sadi www.bgmonline.net. Bostanlar Arası Sok. 8, Led Zeppelin, Deep Purple, Queen, Jimmy Konuralp Cad. 5, Şişhane. T: 0212 334 0700. C5. Bostancı. T: 0216 384 7210. Off map. Hendrix, Orchestra Baobab, Walk Off The Zorlu Center PSM Bronx Pi Sahne Earth, Oi Va Voi, The Beatles and Bob Marley Karsu, 7 Mar, 9pm: Blending jazz, blues, soul, Sahte Rakı, 6 Mar, 9pm: These powerful rock are some of our favourites. funk and Turkish music into their own unique mix, and blues musicians enrich their music with a What has been your most memorable Karsu plays highlights from their new album. theatrical performance. Baba Zula, 7 Mar, 9pm: www.zorlucenterpsm.com. Barbaros Bulvarı Performing modern music inspired by traditional concert? Recently we played our third album Kavşağı, Koru Sok. Beşiktaş. T: 0850 222 6776. folk songs, this veteran group has a healthy dose launch concert in Salon IKSV, İstanbul. That Off map. of funk and electronic styles as well. Maroon 4, 14 was a very well rehearsed concert with great Mar, 11pm: British band The Maroon 4 – Maroon 5 choreographic elements, including video CONCERTS: POP, Tribute Act performs popular hits by the pop-rock shows about the histories of our songs, and LA band. www.kafepi.com. Asmalı Mescit Mah. huge artworks and paintings projected on the TURKISH & WORLD Terkoz Çıkmazı 8/1, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 1063. C5. walls of the auditorium. Babylon Caddebostan Cultural Centre Tell us about the programme of your AraabMUZIK, 5 Mar, 8.30pm: The stage name of Sunay Akın-Moğollar, 9 Mar, 9pm: Modern-day producer and DJ Abraham Orellana, an American upcoming concert at Babylon… In our storyteller Sunay Akın and the legendary Turkish with roots in Dominica and Guatemala, performs concerts, we perform all the songs that we’ve rock band Moğollar perform a blend of storytelling, electronic music. Elliphant, 7 Mar, 8.30pm: poetry and music. www.ckm.gen.tr. Bağdat Cad. composed and recorded as Peyk so far. We also Ellinor Olovsdotter, better known as Elliphant, Haldun Taner Sok. 11, Kadıköy. T: 0216 467 3600. have some surprise new songs that haven’t yet performs a show ranging from hip hop to R&B, Off map. been recorded. electronic music and pop. Peyk, 11 Mar, 8.30pm: Known for their unusual, ironic lyrics and out-of- Galata Mevlevi Lodge What are your impressions of İstanbul? the-ordinary style, Peyk performs from their latest Sema Töreni, 8 Mar, 5pm: A traditional Mevlevi İstanbul has been home to many historic album Teslim Olma (‘Don’t Surrender’). Yelle, 14 (‘whirling dervish’) ceremony, performed to music civilizations. It’s always exciting to tour the Mar, 10pm: The French band sings toe-tapping by Zekai Dede. various districts like Beyoğlu, Cihangir, Kadıköy, songs from their latest album Completement Fou. www.galatamevlevihanesimuzesi.gov.tr. Sirkeci and Sultanahmet. Vega, 19 Mar, 8.30pm: Long-standing Turkish Şahkulu Mah. Galip Dede Cad. 15, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 4141. D5.

24 WHERE İstanbul I MARCH 2015 ENTERTAINMENT

Unite The Mic, 15 Mar, 6.30pm: These three Korean stars perform mostly rap music in several different languages. Arash, 24 Mar, 9pm: Prominent pop star, the Iranian-born Arash, performs new songs and old favourites with his own dance group. www.uniqistanbul.com. UNIQ İstanbul, Maslak Ayazağa Cad. 4, Sarıyer. T: 0212 350 9100. Off map.

Zorlu Center PSM Hugh Jackman, 17, 18, 19, 20 Mar, 9pm: Award- winning Australian actor Hugh Jackman displays his skills as a singer and dancer in this one-man show. www.zorlucenterpsm.com. Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, Koru Sok. Beşiktaş. T: 0850 222 6776. Off map. GECE YOLCULARI 5 Mar, 10.30pm DANCE Beyoğlu Hayal Kahvesi, p. 24 Tim Show Center Los Reyes Del Tango, 8 Mar, 8.30pm: Powerful modern-day performers of the love, passion and Garaj İstanbul www.timshowcenter.com. Büyükdere Cad. longing that is Tango, along with six of the finest Feridun Düzağaç, 6 Mar, 11pm: This popular Derbent Mevkii, Maslak. T: 0212 286 6686. Off map. tango dancers in the world. Coppelia: Moskow singer songwriter performs his melancholic love State Academy of Choreography, 27-29 Mar, songs. Leman Sam, 13 Mar, 11pm: Hear this Ülker Sports Arena 9pm: Among the world’s finest ballet companies longstanding singer with her calming, clear voice. Julio Iglesias, 14 Mar, 9pm: Living legend Julio in the world, the Moscow State Academy of Kord Vokal, 14 Mar, 10pm: On the occasion Iglesias takes the stage with entertaining and Choreography performs Coppelia, with 63 dancers. of Tıp Bayramı, a celebration of medicine and romantic songs during his last world tour. www.timshowcenter.com. Büyükdere Cad. its practitioners, a group composed entirely of www.ulkersportsarena.com. Barbaros Mah. Derbent Mevkii, Maslak. T:0212 286 6686. Off map. medical professionals presents a programme Ihlamur Sok. Batı Ataşehir. T: 0216 687 2100. of lively, rhythmic music. The Haunted, 15 Mar, Off map. MUSICAL 9pm: One of the biggest metal bands to come Volkswagen Arena Zorlu Center PSM out of Sweden in recent years performs as part of Goran Bregovic, 7 Mar, 9pm: Balkan music Romeo e Giuiletta, 1 Mar, 2.30pm & 7.30pm: the 100% Metal concert series. composer Goran Bregovic, who has written A brilliant and sensitive musical rendition of www.garajistanbul.org. Tomtom Mah. Kaymakam countless film scores, performs with his Wedding Shakespeare’s famous play about undying love. Reşat Bey Sok. 11A, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 4499. C5. and Funeral Band. Laidback Luke, 14 Mar, 9pm: www.zorlucenterpsm.com. Barbaros Bulvarı The veteran of major music festivals takes the Jolly Joker İstanbul Kavşağı, Koru Sok. Beşiktaş. T: 0850 222 6776. stage with exciting, high-rhythm songs. Bu Gece Hicaz, 18 Mar, 9pm: Clarinet duo İlkay Off map. Ergül and Rifco combine Turkish and Western musical styles and melodies. Hakan Vreskala, 19 Mar, 9pm: Vreskala is known for his original songs on the subjects of love and rebellion. www.jjistanbul.com. Hüseyinağa Mah. Balo Sok. 22, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 249 0749. C5. İş Sanat Cultural Center Türk Rock Antolojisi, 20 Mar, 8pm: This Turkish rock anthology presents slices of Turkish rock history from the 70s to the present day. www.issanat.com.tr. İş Kuleleri, Levent. T: 0212 316 1083. Off map.

Küçükçiftlik Park Opeth, 22 Mar, 9pm: Swedish Metal band Opeth perform from their latest album The Pale Communion as part of the 100% Metal concert series. www.kucukciftlikpark.com. Kadırgalar Yokuşu 4, Maçka. T: 0212 231 3045. B6. Salon IKSV Mark Lanegan Band, 18 Mar, 9.30pm: Alternative rock legend Mark Lanegan leads his band with his inimitable deep gravelly voice. Lara di Lara, 20 Mar, 10pm: Electronic music with solos by vocalist Dilara Sakpınar. www.saloniksv.com. Nejat Eczacıbaşı Binası, Sadi Konuralp Cad. 5, Şişhane. T: 0212 334 0700. C5. Tim Show Center The Kings of Tango Melihat Gülses & Ghada Shbeir, 5 Mar, 9pm: Tango overflows with love, longing and passion, and Los Reyes del Tango, on stage at Two great names in Turkish and Arab music join TİM Show Center, are some of its finest performers (8 Mar). The Argentine orchestra is forces in their unmissable concert Şark Bülbülleri (‘Nightingales of the East’). joined by dancers hailed as the six finest tango performers in the world (p. 25).

MARCH 2015 I İstanbUl WHERE 25 NIGHTLIFE

A World of Music Under Original Sounds One Roof West London’s master of dubstep, DJ and producer Hosting an endless variety of artists and musical styles, Caspa performs at Babylon Friday night, March 20. Babylon is a pioneer in İstanbul’s music and entertainment.

abylon, in the Asmalımescit Babylon’s events go far beyond concerts – neighbourhood, takes a distinctly they also extend to theatre, dance workshops, Bintercultural approach, documentaries and more. offering an endless selection This month, Babylon welcomes of different musical styles. electronic music group Elliphant, Working continuously one of the top groups on the to bring sounds from European jazz scene, the Erik around the globe, Truffaz Quartet, plus bands the club works as such as Peyk and Vega to its a venue for both stage. local and foreign musicians, solo and in Asmalımescit, Şehbender Sok. 3, Beyoğlu. collaboration. T: 0212 292 7368. One of İstanbul’s www.babylon.com.tr most exiting venues,

26 WHERE İstanbul I MARCH 2015 NIGHTLIFE

menu includes the classical mezes plus a tempting programmes and drum shows. MEYHANE & FASIL range of original in-house cold and hot mezes. www.mormeyhane.com. Beyoğlu: Tepebaşı Mah. Meşrutiyet Cad. 83/1, Beyoğlu. Galata Meyhanesi Outstanding items include sea bass purée with T: 0212 293 9821. C5. Kuşdili Cad. 99, This meyhane serves the flavours of Turkish cuisine sumac, shrimp-stuffed squid, and zaatar (herb) Kadıköy: Kadıköy. T: 0216 345 8484. Off map. as well as fasıl music, with a four-member group bread. Mon-Sat 5pm-2am. www.afilimeyhane.com. Ahmet Yesevi Cad. No:6/A Ataşehir. including violin, kanun, oud and drum providing Asmalımescit Mah. Meşrutiyet Cad. Oteller Sok. 1 Ataşehir: T: 0216 469 9273. Off map. a quintessentially Turkish atmosphere. A, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 1121. C5. Mon-Sat 7.30pm-00.30am. www.galata.com.tr. Aheste Orhan Adli Apaydın Sok. 5/A, İstiklal Cad. Beyoğlu. This warm, retro-style restaurant offers 20 different Bars & Clubs T: 0212 293 1139. C5. mezes from Turkey, Iran, Armenia and Greece, 29 Food Bar including favourites such as calamari with hummus, Garibaldi Meyhanesi Ulus 29 Lounge’s new reincarnation, 29 Food Bar sweetbreads and artichoke confite. There are live Named after Giuseppe Garibaldi, this Beyoğlu maintains its impressive elegance with its stylish jazz performances to enhance the evening. meyhane serves a rich selection of Turkish mezes décor and objects d’art. Must-tries include their Daily 9am-12am. www.ahestegalata.com. and features a fine group of musicians playing the asparagus tempura and Peking duck roll; they also Hacı Mimi Mah. Serdar-ı Ekrem Cad. 30A, Beyoğlu. best of Turkish classical music for a classic İstanbul make a mean Bloody Mary. Mon-Fri 12pm-3pm, T: 0212 245 4345. C5. evening out. www.garibaldi.com.tr. Mon-Sat 10am 7pm-3am, Sat 7pm-4am, Sun 7pm-2am. -1am. Perukar Çıkmazı 3, İstiklal Cad. Beyoğlu. Duble Meze Bar www.group-29.com. Ahmet Adnan Saygun Cad. T: 0535 719 0343. C5. Duble is on the terrace of a building given to the Ulus Parkı içi 71/1 Ulus. T: 0212 265 6181. Off map. Italian musician Giuseppe Donizetti, as a gift by Gurme Boncuk Anjelique Sultan Abdülmecit. The menu specialises in mezes You’ll find home-style dishes and fresh fish in this Three-storey venue overlooking the Bosphorus, a made with seasonal vegetables and seafood. nostalgically-decorated meyhane in a bustling combination of restaurant, club and bar. The sea- Wed, Fri and Sat nights are livened up by the music street. Favourites on the menu include salt-cured level floor offers the exotic flavours of East Asia, of DJ Aslı Köse. Sun-Thu 6pm-1am, Fri-Sat 6pm- sardines and red snapper ‘kokoreç’. Mon-Sat 12am- while the middle and top floors serve fine French 2am.www.dublemezebar.com. Meşrutiyet Cad. 85A 1am. www.gurmeboncuk.com.tr. Asmalımescit Sok. dishes. Different music on each floor, sometimes by K:7, Palazzo Donizetti, Pera, Beyoğlu. 17C, Beyoğlu. T: 0536 528 9891. C5. well-known DJs. Daily 6.30pm-4am. T: 0212 244 0188. C5. www.anjelique.com.tr. Muallim Naci Cad. Kalamata Meyhane Salhane Sok. 5, Ortaköy. T: 0212 327 2844. A9. Sortie’s Tavern took its new name after its relocation Mor Meyhane Flavour-filled cuisine and unlimited entertainment to Akaretler. Its warm atmosphere and simple Arabesque are the hallmarks of Mor Meyhane, which serves interior become even more inviting with live music A refreshing departure from the typical Lebanese on both sides of the city with branches in Beyoğlu, performances five days a week. The venue is run by restaurant with its predictable hummus, belly Kadıköy and Ataşehir. In all its branches you’ll find one of the few female tavern owners in Turkey, Beyza dancers and oriental glitz, Arabesque successfully all the best-loved mezes, alongside colourful fasıl Gürbüzer, who also prepares the mezes herself. combines the oriental spirit with contemporary Daily 7.30pm-4am. Sortie, Muallim Naci Cad. 54, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 258 8788. Off map.

Latife Hanım Meyhanesi This meyhane with its ‘Republican’ theme is full of photographs of Atatürk and modern women of the new Turkish Republic, with Turkish classical songs playing round the clock. The meze selection is quite varied; make sure to sample the topik and lakerda. Sun-Thu 12pm-12am, Fri-Sat 12pm-1am. www.latifehanim.com. İstiklal Cad. Bekar Sok. 22/A, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 0068. C5.

Safi Meyhane This modern meyhane in Şişhane serves mezes in the bar as well as the dining room. Home-style dishes feature for lunch, and the mezes include new flavours plus the venerable classics. Music ranges from 70s and 80s Turkish pop and classical. www.safimeyhane.com. Meşrutiyet Cad. 84, Şişhane. T: 0530 240 4908. C4.

Zarif Bir Meyhane Operating at the entrance to this venue presents the original meyhane experience with its menu, music, fasıl ensemble and blue-and-white décor. The menu offers delicious traditional meyhane-style dishes like stuffed vine leaves with sour cherries, the Armenian speciality topik made from lamb, courgette dish kaşkarıkas, and leek croquettes. Mon-Sat 7.30pm- 2am. www.zarifi.com.tr. Çukurluçeşme Sok. 13, Sıraselviler, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 5480. C5. Cool Atmosphere, Great Music modern meyhanes With its décor, clientele and presentation, popular Karaköy club Gaspar is everything Afili Meyhane you ever wanted. Featuring after-dinner DJ performances, Gaspar is an especially The hanging lamps, transparent chairs and modern good alternative for a weekend night out. decor all set Afili apart from typical meyhane style, Müeyyezzade Mah. Necatibey Cad. Arapoğlan Sok 6, Karaköy. but its most outstanding difference is that its mezes are made to order. Prepared by female chefs, the T: 0212 293 6660.

MARCH 2015 I İstanbUl WHERE 27 NIGHTLIFE

nightlife. With walls decorated by famous Beirut finest food and DJ performances anywhere. together at this gastropub featuring Italian, graffiti artist Yahya Muhakkin. Daily 8pm-2am www.fenixistanbul.com. Thu-Sat noon-4am. Spanish and world cuisine. DJs play every night. Taşkışla Cad. 19, Demokrasi Parkı Yanı, Maçka. Sun-Wed noon-2am. Nispetiye Cad. 79, Etiler. Tue-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri & Sat 5pm-5am, Sun T: 0212 231 0356. B6. T: 0212 265 5588. Off map. 5pm-midnight. www.kiki.com.tr. Kiki Sıraselviler, Sıraselviler Cad. 42, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 5373. C5. Babylon Fosil Kiki Ortaköy, Osmanzade Sok. 8, Ortaköy. Enjoy concerts, an extensive menu, cocktail With its unusual retro décor and unique cocktails T: 0212 258 5524. Off map. pitchers, electro, house, chill out and world such as Libido and Oh Papatya, Fosil is the perfect music. Daily 8pm-4am. www.babylon.com.tr. place for a night of rock music, from Jim Morrison Kloster Asmalımescit, Şehbender Sok. 3, Beyoğlu. to Elvis, The Beatles and Guns N’ Roses. The work of a host of talents, this venue is one T: 0212 292 7368. C5. Mon & Tue 4pm-midnight. Wed-Sat 4pm-4am. of the latest on İstanbul’s nightlife scene. With a www.fosil.com.tr. Kemankeş Cad. 34/C, K:3, capacity of almost 2,000, and featuring three large Babylon Lounge Karaköy. T: 0507 812 8531. D5. floors and a terrace, it welcomes top local and One of New York’s most cutting edge music foreign DJs and outstanding names in electronic venues, Babylon Lounge is a place where young Garajistanbul music. Hüseyin Ağa Mah. Kamer Hatun Cad. 10, musicians create, discuss, meet the masters, and A contemporary performance arts centre located Beyoğlu. T: 0533 258 9393. C5. develop new ideas and projects. With its own in Beyoğlu, staging a variety of performances inc unique musical scene, its stage is open to anyone theatre, dance, festivals, exhibitions, and concerts. Le Fumoir Pavillion and everyone making good music. Mon-Sat Daily 8.30pm-2am. www.garajistanbul.org. Tomtom This Bar In The Çırağan Palace Kempinski 5pm-2am. www.babylon.com.tr. Jurnal Sok. 4, Mah. Yeni Çarşı Cad. Kaymakam Reşat Bey Sok. İstanbul boasts a splendid view directly onto the Asmalımescit. T: 0212 245 3800. C5. 11/A, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 4499. C5. bosphorus. With palm trees, water pipe service and comfortable seating, the venue exudes Biber Bar Gaspar Romance Savour, premium cognacs, malt whiskies, Homely atmosphere suitable for dinner and drinks Located in an old three-storey, high-ceilinged exclusive wines, champagnes, and cocktails. Daily with jazz or lounge music in the background. The building this Karaköy venue is always full to 5pm-1am. www.kempinski.com. Çırağan Cad. 32, menu of mainly İstanbul and Southern American overflowing thanks to its quality French food and Beşiktaş. T: 0212 326 4646. Off Map. cuisines includes steaks to burgers, salads, tapas, great music. Mon-Thu 7pm-2am. Fri&Sat 7pm-4am. filet mignon and chicken shish kebab. Müeyyeyzade Mah. Necatibey Cad. Arapoğlan Limoncello Daily 3pm-2am. www.biberbar.com. Sok. 6, Karaköy. T: 0212 293 6660. D5. Named after the famous Italian liqueur, this Cevdet Paşa Cad. 26/A, Bebek. Off map. exclusive boutique nightspot boasts colourful Hayal Kahvesi furniture under lemon trees, fresh fruit cocktails, Bird This popular venue hosts live performances by and performances by top name DJs. Tue-Sat Unique flavours from world cuisines are served up different bands every night. 10pm-3am. www.limoncello.com.tr. Süleyman Seba in a warm atmosphere dominated by music from www.hayalkahvesibeyoglu.com. Cad. 34, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 258 9822. B7. the 50s and 60s. The menu here features mostly Hayal Kahvesi Beyoğlu, Daily 4pm-4am. İstiklal Cad. meat dishes with impressive portions, such as steak Meşelik Sok. 10, Taksim. T: 0212 244 2558. C5. Lucca tartare and green curries, with their own special Hayal Kahvesi Çubuklu, Daily 4pm-4am. Spacious restaurant-bar with ample armchairs, long cocktails. Mon-Sat 11am-2pm. www.bird.com.tr. There are 2 restaurants; Tapas and İstanbul Balık. wooden tables and a high ceiling, serving as a café Meşrutiyet Cad. 103, Şişhane, Beyoğlu. Burunbahçe, Eski Gazhane Binaları, Çubuklu. until 7pm, after which the menu offers a blend of T: 0212 245 7085. C4. T: 0216 413 6880. Off map. world cuisines and the DJ performance takes over. This is one of İstanbul’s most popular bars, and Bleu Lounge & Grill Hodjapasha Culture Center popular with the after-work crowd. Daily 10am- With a Bosphorus view and comfortable ambience, This cultural centre located in the historic 2am. www.luccastyle.com. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 51/B, Bleu serves tempting cocktails and gourmet Hocapaşa Hamam presents an ever-changing Bebek. T: 0212 257 1255. Off map. flavours all day long. In addition, they feature a series of exhibitions and performances, presenting different style of live music every day of the week. the finest examples of Turkish culture. The brick Masquerade Club Daily 10am-2am. www.ritzcarlton.com. and stone building with its high central dome hosts Famous R&B singers and DJs from Turkey and Ritz Carlton, İstanbul, Askerocağı Cad. 6, Şişli. many fascinating events including the Mevlevi abroad perform music from around the world T: 0212 334 4188. B6. Sema Ceremony (Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat & Sun 7.30pm) at this new club with a capacity of 2000. Making and the Hodja Pasha Dance Show (Tue & Thur 8pm, a name for itself with its unusual concepts and Chilai Sat & Sun 9pm) performed by the Hocapaşa performances, Masquerade creates a visual and Located directly on the Bosphorus, the venue Dance Team. www.hodjapasha.com. musical celebration. Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 11pm-5am. brings a breath of fresh air to İstanbul’s nightlife Ankara Cad. Hocapaşa Hamamı Sok. 3B, Sirkeci. Yıldız Posta Cad. Sinan Pasajı 38/26 Gayrettepe. with its unusual contemporary décor and bold T: 0212 511 4626/4636. E5. T: 0212 347 1347. Mobile: 0533 027 0387. Off map. dishes prepared by renowned chefs. The three- floor dining complex includes a sushi bar, bistro, Indigo Members İstanbul lounge, bar, dining room, pastry shop, charcuterie Known as a temple of electronic music, this club An impressive-looking Bosphorus nightspot where, and art gallery. Daily 10pm-2am. offers a vibrant programme based on alternative the excellent DJs play mostly Turkish hits, with the www.chilai.com.tr. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 60, Bebek. and electronic music, with new sounds and fun continuing until the crack of dawn. T: 0212 263 6315. Off map. reflecting the developments in the world of Tue-Sat 10pm-4am. Muallim Naci Cad. 71, Ortaköy. music. Fri, Sat 11pm-5am. T: 0212 236 7357. Off map. Corridor www.livingindigo.com. İstiklal Cad. Akarsu Sok. This dark and intimate bar located in the deepest Mısır Apt. 1/2/4/5, Galatasaray. Mojo corner of the Milli Reasürans Çarşısı (market) hosts Just off İstiklal Caddesi and much frequented T: 0212 244 8568. C5. art shows and photographic exhibitions. House by artists and writers, Mojo is loved for its music during weekdays changes to 80s tunes later Jolly Joker İstanbul alternative rock, jazz, ethnic and rock music as in the evening; alternative rock and popular hits With its fine acoustics and infrastructure, this well as live music by local and foreign bands on from the 80s and 90s dominate the sounds during is a groundbreaking venue in sound quality in Wed-Sun 9pm-4am. www.mojobeyoglu.com. weekends. Mon-Sat 5pm-1.30am. Milli Reasürans Turkey. Among the many genres performed are Büyükparmakkapı Sok. 26, Beyoğlu. Çarşısı, 47-48, Abdi İpekçi Cad. Nişantaşı. live electronic, acoustic, funk, pop, rock, hip hop, T: 0212 243 2927. C5. T: 0212 343 0241. A6. house and techno. Mon-Sat 9pm-3am. www.jjistanbul.com. İstiklal Cad. Balo Sok. 22, Nardis Jazz Club Fenix İstanbul A true jazz club for real local jazz fans, with live Beyoğlu. T: 0212 249 0749. C5. This restaurant and nightclub, with a magnificent music nightly modern, ethnic and creative non-jazz high-ceilinged bar decorated with palm trees, Kiki works. Extensive menu inc finger food, steak and serves dishes from around the world. One of the Cocktails made with homemade syrups, a chicken plus salads and desserts. Mon-Sat 8.30am- city’s most elegant spots, it offers some of the comfortable environment and great music come

28 WHERE İstanbul I MARCH 2015 NIGHTLIFE

1.30am. www.nardisjazz.com. Galata Kulesi Sok. 8, Hotel Jumeriah, Meşrutiyet Cad. 52, Tepebaşı, meze (appetizers). Mon-Sat 12pm-1am. Galata. T: 0212 244 6327. D5. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 3774000. C4. www.sofyali.com. Asmalımescit, Sofyalı Sok. 9, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 0362. C5. Nomads Pop At Nomads, dishes are served with pita bread on This venue in Nupera has something to suit every Suada Club large brass trays, accompanied by DJ Hakan’s taste, playing top hits from the 80s to the present. İstanbul residents and visitors alike take refuge sublime mix of Arab and Western music. With a With its informal atmosphere and great selection from the heat of summer in the soft Bosphorus bright, airy garden surrounded by alcoves with of drinks, Pop has become one of the most popular breeze sweeping the pool and restaurants of Suada pillows and couches, and Bosphorus views from the spots in Pera. Fri, Sat 11pm-4am. Club. Easily accessible thanks to its central location top floor. Tue-Sat 8pm-2am. www.nupera.com.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 67, Tepebaşı. in the city, and housing six restaurants, Suada Club www.nomads.nl. Muallim Naci Cad. 65, Ortaköy. T: 0212 245 6070. C4. is sure be a hot spot this year as well. An ideal spot T: 0212 258 0777. A9. for an aperitif after work, the middle bar of Suada Raw Club entertains its guests throughout the summer Nublu With a minimalistic and underground atmosphere, with live performances. www.suadaclub.com.tr. One of New York’s most cutting edge music Raw boasts a state-of-the-art sound system, top Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 263 7300. Off map. venues, Nublu is a place where young musicians DJs and live music performances. Appealing to create, discuss, meet the masters, and develop a 25-45 crowd that loves to dance, international Sultana’s 1001 Nights Show new ideas and projects. Mon-Sat 10pm-2am. DJs play disco, house and techno all night long. Venue offering authentic Turkish-themed shows. www.nubluistanbul.net. Sıraselviler Cad. 55, Quench your thirst with its range of delicious Tables surround a raised centre stage, featuring Beyoğlu. T: 0533 096 4931. C5. cocktails. Wed, Fri, Sat 8pm-late. shows that begin with belly dancing, followed by www.rawistanbul.com. Necatibey Cad. 66, folk dances and a harem show. Ottoman Cuisine.

Nupera Karaköy. Off map. Daily 9am-5am. www.sultanasb-nights.com. Launched in 2001 in the 200 year-old Passage Cumhuriyet Cad. 40/D, Elmadağ. de Petit Champs, Nupera houses a variety of Reina T: 0212 219 3904. B6. restaurants, a bar and private club with an open Gazing over the Bosphorus, you can begin terrace during the summer – something for your night out dining in one of its six different Supper Club everyone. Daily 6pm-12am. Fri&Sat 6pm-4am. restaurants featuring diverse themes. Part of a chain launched in Amsterdam, this www.nupera.com.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 67, Tepebaşı, Entertainment every night with chill out, pop and nightclub offers electronic, chill out, funk and Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 6070. C4. Turkish pop music. Very glamorous; phone to make house music, and an alternative menu. Daily reservations. Daily 7pm-4am. www.reina.com.tr. 11.30pm-5am. www.supperclub.com. Muallim Naci

Orient Express Bar Muallim Naci Cad. 44, Ortaköy. T: 0212 259 5919. A9. Cad. 65, Ortaköy. T: 0212 261 1988. A9. Breakfast, Turkish and Mediterranean treats and a wide variety of snack dishes served on an elegant. Sofyalı 9 Unter, Karaköy The meals are complemented by original cocktails Very popular two-storey restaurant with the Unter’s ground floor is a café, the next is a lounge, plus domestic and foreign wines served all day. atmosphere of an Aegean-Mediterranean taverna. and the top floor a party space. Try the Caipiroska Daily 10pm-2am. www.jumeirah.com. Pera Palace Greek music and cuisine including a choice of 33 cocktail with Jaegermeister, and the long relaxed Sunday breakfasts. Private overnight parties with music by DJs promise great entertainment until dawn. Tue-Thu 9am-12am, Fri 9am-2am, Sat 9am- 2am, Sun 9am-10pm. www.unter.com.tr. Kemankeş, Karaali Kaptan Sok. 4, Karaköy, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 5151. D5. TURKISH MUSIC Cahide Salonika Greek Bistro & Lounge Cahide specialises in Aegean mezes, plus live performances of Greek music by Buzuki Hakan. Mon-Sat 8pm-1.30am. www.capamarka.com.tr. Süleyman Seba Cad. 42/46, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 219 6530. B7.

Club Albüm Turkish pop parties every night, at this nightspot overlooking the Bosphorus, are followed by live percussion and dance shows. The deluxe drink menu serves a host of original, tempting cocktails. Daily 11pm-5am. Muallim Naci Cad. 71, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 236 7256.Off map.

Hittpera Playing Turkish songs from past to present, this venue hosts prominent DJs, plus top cocktails and nonstop entertainment. Tue-Sat 11.30pm-4am. Meşrutiyet Cad. 89/A, across from the Pera Palace Hotel, Asmalımescit, Beyoğlu. T: 0536 594 1139. C4.

Şamdan Etiler Aegean Breezes Offering a magnificent interior and selections Cahide Salonika offers delicious Aegean-style mezes, and also promises a great from world cuisines, Şamdan turns into a popular evening of entertainment with Greek music by Bouzouki Hakan and exciting live entertainment spot at night. The evening starts with soft chansons, replaced by disco hits as the shows. night progresses. Daily 8.30pm-5am. Süleyman Seba Cad. 42-46, Akaretler, Beşiktaş www.etilersamdan.com. Nispetiye Cad. 92, Etiler. T: 0212 219 6530. www.capanarka.com.tr Office: İhsan Aksoy Sok. 5/8, Çamlık, Etiler. T: 0212 257 3042. Off map.

MARCH 2015 I İstanbUl WHERE 29 SHOPPING

Lord of the Rings A Special Jewellery designer Sevan Bıçakçı’s dazzling, award winning designs combine Publication the history, stories and visual qualities of the Byzantine and Ottoman eras to from Assouline create designs much admired the world over. ‘Sevan Bıçakçı’, a book that explores the designer’s life, haping precious stones with his own unique was released with a special cutting technique, Bıcakçı works with a vast exhibition and party at New S range of designs, from grand sultan rings to York Sotheby’s. It is now fantastic single-edition sea creatures that cover the available at Assouline Bebek, entire hand. With his signature ‘reverse carving’ Assouline City’s Mahalle and technique, the designer works images of monuments Assouline Beymen Zorlu like Hagia Sophia, Topkapı Palace and Süleymaniye Center Boutiques. Mosque, plus mythological figures, animals and birds in astounding detail. Beguiling with the stories they tell and their amazing craftsmanship, the designs are greatly sought after by the world’s most sophisticated and discerning collectors.

Grand Bazaar, Molla Fenari Mah. Gazi Sinanpaşa Sok. 16, Eminönü. T: 0212 520 4516. Zorlu Center, Levazım Cad. Koru Sok. 2-188, Zincirlikuyu 16, Eminönü. T: 0212 353 6633. www.sevanbicakci.com

30 WHERE İstanbul I MARCH 2015 SHOPPING SHOPPING

galleries. With its national and international brands, SHOPPING CENTRE MAP pleasant cafes, restaurants and quality nightlife, it is a favourite area especially with İstanbul’s elite crowd. Nişantaşı lies at busy hub of several major streets (the busiest of which are Teşvikiye, Valikonağı and Rumeli Avenues) and it’s easy to get to, a quick dolmuş ride from Taksim Square. A6. SHOPPING CENTRES Akasya Acıbadem This largest shopping mall on İstanbul's Asian side offers famous world brands, 10 movie theatres, a concert hall, a theatre, and Kidzania, where children can meet, play and take part in over 60 different activities. Daily 10am-10pm. www.ak-asya.com. Çeçen Sok. Koru Etabı, Koru Kule, K:36, 192, Acıbadem. T: 0216 428 3132. Off map.

Akmerkez Offering the best local and foreign brands in an elegant shopping atmosphere as well as an array of entertainment and social venues, Joker Entertainment Park promises a good time for children and adults alike. Papermoon, located at the Ulus entrance, serves Italian cuisine. Daily 10am-10pm. www.akmerkez.com.tr. Major Shopping Makers, Jewellers, Mirror Makers, etc. This is the Nispetiye Cad. Etiler. T: 0212 282 0170. place for hand-woven carpets, jewellery, traditional Shopping Centre Map (p.34). Areas Turkish art, famous Turkish style silverware, copper, bronze giftware and decorative objects, ceramics, Aqua Florya Akaretler Row Houses onyx, leather products and souvenirs from all over This shopping mall offering world-class brands Built in 1875 by Ottoman Sultan Abdülaziz, the Turkey. Mon-Sat 8:30am-7pm. and entertainment hides an added surprise: The beautiful Akaretler Row Houses has a new lease on www.kapalicarsi.org.tr. Beyazıt-Eminönü. E4. İstanbul Aquarium, the largest thematic aquarium life since its huge renovation. New life has been in the world. Learn about aquatic life in the world's breathed into this Beşiktaş neighbourhood and it’s Çukurcuma oceans, lakes and rivers, and enjoy a meal at one now one of İstanbul’s foremost cultural quarters, World-renowned for its antique shops, this of the many cafes and restaurants overlooking the offering a host of colourful art galleries, stylish area has the atmosphere of an old Ottoman Marmara Sea. Daily 10am-10pm. cafés and restaurants, and a tempting selection neighbourhood. Antique shops are scattered www.aquaflorya.com.tr. Şenlikköy Mah.Yeşilköy of designer shops. Officially named Şair Nedim through the streets. Mon-Fri 9am-7pm. Sat-Sun Halkalı Cad. 93, Florya. T: 0212 574 5900. Off map. Caddesi, this sloping street, with the W Hotel as 9am-7pm. Çukurcuma Cad. Firuzağa Mah. a prominent landmark, is lined with commercial Faik Paşa Cad. Turnacıbaşı Sok. Beyoğlu. City’s galleries such as Rampa, Art On Gallery and T: 0505 709 3857. C5. City’s Nişantaşı is a centre of fashion and style. Galerist, and design house Autobahn. Find luxury Leading national and international brands, Egyptian (Spice) Bazaar jewel-encrusted pieces at Sevan Bıçakçı, tasteful delightful cafés and restaurants, dazzling Alongside the New Mosque (Yeni Cami) and next linens and household items at Haremlique, and architecture. Entertainment for children and 7 to the Flower Market, the Egyptian Bazaar is one of prepare for the Big Day at Vakko Wedding. Should movie theatres. Citylife’s cinema foyer with its the oldest covered bazaars in İstanbul, renowned you need a break after all that browsing and peerless sea view adds to the pleasure. The fun for its herbalists. In addition to spices, Turkish shopping, tempting treats await at stylish Cafe lasts late into the evening. Daily 10am-10pm. delight (lokum), and other souvenirs, natural Minyon (part of W Hotel), or taste top Turkish wines www.citysnisantasi.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 162, medicines, herbs, flower seeds, roots and barks of paired with cheeses at Corvus. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 3333. A6. www.akaretler.com.tr. Süleymen Seba Cad. rare plants used in traditional medicine as well as a Maçka, Beşiktaş. B7. vast selection of dried nuts, delicatessen products and other food items are available. Daily 8.30am- Guidelines Bağdat Caddesi 6.30pm. Eminönü Square. E4. Named after Murat IV’s successful campaign to This directory, grouped by category, is a list of recapture Baghdad, this posh street on İstanbul’s İstiklal Caddesi establishments recommended by the editors of Asian side extends from Kızıltoprak in Kadıköy to In the historical district of Beyoğlu, which was the Where Magazine and includes regular Cevizli in Maltepe. The section between Suadiye primary neighbourhood of the foreign community advertisers. and Caddebostan is especially well known for its as well as non-Muslim Ottoman subjects, Beyoğlu MAP LOCATIONS exclusive shops, cafés and restaurants frequented gradually attained a European look with the arrival Note that the references in bold at the end of by local youth and business people. Many top of foreign embassies as well as Christians from Galata, eventually forming a new community in each listing (A1; B5 etc) refer to the coordinates Turkish and world brands have at least one shop on the street maps on pages 70-71. here. Well served by public transportation, this 17th-century İstanbul. The allure of the street faded in the 1970s but was followed by major bustling street with its chic restaurants and cafes information revival in early 1990s. It is now a the city’s major is an excellent place to go window shopping and Visitors should note that Value Added Tax (VAT) people watching. Off map. entertainment district, full of bars, clubs, cafés, varies between 8% and 18% and is generally restaurants, and scores of top shopping brands. included in the price of goods. Overseas visitors Covered (Grand) Bazaar Beyoğlu. C5. can shop tax-free in Turkey recouping around 5 Built in 1461, this amazing complex, the world’s to 13% of these amounts, respectively. oldest shopping center, is a colossal maze taking Nişantaşı Look for shops with signs for Global Refund in 66 streets and 4,000 stores— all covered. Each Nişantaşı is both a lively and bustling (T: 0212 232 1121) and DSD Refund street in the Bazaar is named after the specific neighbourhood and an area known for its exclusive (T: 0212 546 0790). guild that once inhabited it, such as the Kalpak shopping centres, brand-name stores, malls and

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Demirören İstiklal Opened upon the rebuilding of the Sin-Em Han, home in the 1930s to the famous Saray pudding shop and the Lüks cinema, this 25,000 square metre venue is home to a host of famous shops including Sephora, Brandroom, the Satürn technology chain, the Gap and Atasun Optik. Daily 10am-10pm. www.demirorenistiklal.com. T: 0212 249 9999. İstiklal Cad. 52-54, Beyoğlu. C5.

Galleria A major shopping centre featuring world brands as well as a broad range of restaurants, entertainment, sports activities and striking interiors. Daily 10am-10pm. www.galleria.com.tr. Sahilyolu, Ataköy. T: 0212 559 9560. Off map.

İstanbul Cevahir The city centre’s largest shopping mall lets you shop any time you want. In addition to a slew of top-rated stores, it also boasts cafés and restaurants offering flavours from around the world, a movie theatre, state theatres and the Fun Lab Entertainment World for children. Daily 10am- 10pm. www.istanbulcevahir.com. Büyükdere Cad. 22/A, Şişli. T: 0212 368 6900. Off map.

İstinyePark In addition to the top brands this shopping centre offers, it stands out with its architecture. Designed to cater to a host of tastes and needs, it demonstrates a distinct concept with 147 clothing stores and 43 world brands. Various theme areas including Brands Street, Nostalgic Marketplace and Children’s Entertainment Centre in addition to nearly 40 cafés and restaurants, and 12 movie theatres inc a 3D IMAX screen. Daily 10am-10pm. www.istinyepark.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. 73, Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 5555. Shopping Centre Map (p.34).

Forumİstanbul In addition to shopping, Forum İstanbul offers an extensive choice of leisure activities. At the top of the list of attractions is Turkuazoo, Turkey's first and biggest aquarium. The mall also boasts a 10-screen movie theatre, a game and entertainment centre, bowling alley, play spaces for children and a host of dining choices. Look out for the newest addition: Jurassic Land, an 8000-m2 family entertainment centre set due to open later this year. Daily 10am- 10pm. www.forumistanbul.com.tr. Kocatepe Mah. Paşa Cad. Bayrampaşa. T: 0212 443 1350. Shopping Centre Map (p.36).

Kanyon Major shopping centre with 160 stores, 9 movie theatres and a health and sports club. Pleasant atmosphere offering the best Turkish and world brands, gourmet restaurants, cafés, open air performances and dazzling colours and sounds. Restaurants and cafés in Kanyon offer early breakfasts and late dinners. Daily 10am-10pm. www.kanyon.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Levent. T: 0212 317 5300. Shopping Centre Map (p.34).

Mall of İstanbul Offering both indoor and outdoor street shopping, this mall contains around 350 shops, elegant gourmet restaurants, cinemas, arts events and MoiPark for children. One of Turkey’s largest shopping malls, it also features the Traditional Art Street offering examples of Turkish art. Daily 10am-10pm. www.mallofistanbul.com.tr.

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colossal glass hemisphere for a roof. The chic mall SHOPPING CENTRE MAP also houses world-renowned brands including Marks&Spencer, C&A, Banana Republic, and Zara. Daily 10am-10pm. www.palladium.com.tr. Barbaros Mah. Halk Cad. 8/B, Ataşehir. T: 0216 663 1500. Off map.

Sapphire At 261 metres high, İstanbul Sapphire is the city's tallest combined shopping mall and andresidential building; it’s also Turkey’s first ‘green’ structure, and one of few such buildings in the world. Combining western, traditional and modern architecture, Sapphire presents a modern shopping experience with prestigious world brands and entertainment. Daily 10am-10pm. www.istanbulsapphire.com. Emniyet Evleri, Eski Büyükdere Cad. 1/1, Levent. T: 0212 268 8080. Shopping Centre Map (p.34).

Trump Towers Mall This mall that offers shopping, movies, a place to perform music, a gym and a convention hall also has a play center and ice skating school for kids. Daily 10am-10pm. www.trumpistanbul.com.tr. Karkuyusu Sok. 19, Şişli. T: 0212 348 7867. Off map.

Vialand Turkey’s first world-class mega theme park offers a host of different entertainment alternatives including a show centre, shopping centre, a 5000- seat auditorium plus a train, a roller coaster and other rides and theme zones. www.vialand.com.tr. Yeşilpınar Mah. Girne Mah. Eyüp. T: 0212 618 9797. Off map.

Zorlu Center This mall in the heart of the city is home to luxury boutique stores including Beymen, plus Turkey’s first outlets of brands such as Brooks Brothers, Industrie Denim, Cos, Lanvin, Pomellato, Stella McCartney and Superdry. The venue also has 14 cinemas, including two VIP cinemas with 1,600 seats each. Daily 10am-10pm. www.zorlucenter.com. Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, Koru Sok. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 924 0124. Off map. Süleyman Demirel Bulvarı, Mahmutbey, 1. Levent. T: 0212 344 0660. Başakşehir. T: 0212 801 1000. Off map. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). ANTIQUES AND Marmara Forum Optimum COLLECTIBLES The Marmara Forum shopping centre is home to Bringing the outlet concept into the city centre, world brands, and brings new ideas and trends Optimum İstanbul serves nearly nine million visitors Horhor Antique Centre This seven-storey building is famous with local to Turkey. In addition to famous men’s, women’s a year in the bustling neighbourhood of Kadıköy antique collectors, and each object here has a and kids’ clothing and lingerie brands – including on the Asian side. In addition to famous brands like Tommy Hilfiger, Fracassetti and Diesel, you’ll story, from armour worn by an English knight in Massimo Dutti, Benetton, Mango, Lacoste, DKNY, find local brands like Derimod, Vakko and Atasay. his last battle, to the massive armchair of a French GAP and Armani Kids – you’ll also find top national There’s a huge daylit food court and open-air aristocrat. Daily 10am-6pm. www.horhor.com. and international jewellery brands like Atasay, terraces, plus a 540 m2 ice skating rink. Kırk Tulumba Sok. 24, Horhor, Aksaray. E2. Gülaylar, Assos and Swarovski. The mall is also Daily 10am-10pm. www.optimumoutlet.com. Khaftan Art & Antique home to 15 cinemas, and the largest Food Court İstiklal Sok. 2/B, Yenisahra, Ataşehir. A delightful venue hosting a collection of fine in İstanbul, with 65 different cafes and restaurants. T: 0216 664 1414. Off map. And not forgetting the two separate terraces with antiques and works by modern Turkish artists. Khaftan’s vast array includes Ottoman era textiles, views of the Marmara Sea. Daily 10am-10pm. ÖzdilekPark İstanbul ceramics, silverworks, oriental paintings, books, www.marmara-forum.com.tr. Osmaniye, Home to 140 stores, a hypermarket, an electronics market, children’s play areas, Cinetime cinemas, engravings and maps collected both in Turkey Çobançeşme, Koşuyolu Bulvarı 3, Bakırköy. plus restaurants and cafes seating a total of and abroad. Also available are oil paintings by T: 0212 414 9494. Shopping Centre Map (p.32). 1,500 people. Daily 10am-10pm. contemporary Turkish artists, miniature paintings MetroCity www.ozdilekparkistanbul.com. Büyükdere Cad. and calligraphic art. Daily 9am-7pm. www.khaftan.com. Şifa Hamamı Sok. 16, Accessible by subway, this shopping centre 181, Şişli. T: 0212 386 8850-51. Off map. Sultanahmet. T: 0212 458 5425. F5. offering world brands, restaurants, and book stores Palladium is also popular for its regular events. Beymen Club Largest shopping centre in İstanbul’s Asian side. Portakal Art And Culture House and Vakko stores offer top-line smart and smart- In addition to 170 large stores, movie theatres and The Portakal Family has contributed to Turkish arts casual men’s and women’s clothing. Daily 10am- an excellent food court, it also includes a 32-storey and culture for three generations, since early 20th 10pm. www.metrocity.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 171, residence. Its inspiring architecture includes a century provide art consultancy services for private

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museums, institutions and special collections. of the President of Turkey! Daily 8.30am-7.30pm. Fratelli Italia De Delfino. www.corentte.com. Mon-Sat 9am-7.30pm. www.rportakal.com. www.loomart.com. On the boutiques floor of Mim Kemal Öke Cad. İkizler Apt. 14/3, Nişantaşı. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 8, Nişantaşı. The Ritz-Carlton. Gümüşsuyu, Askerocağı Cad. 9, T: 0212 247 0445. Off map. T: 0212 225 4637. A6. Elmadağ. T: 0212 252 5095. B6. Damat/Tween Sahaflar Çarşısı Mevlana Rug Store The Damat Collection’s main fabric line consists The oldest market to have survived from Ottoman Carries the best collection of carpets from each of specially woven, environmentally friendly, wool times, it is located on Beyazıt Square in the region of Turkey. Carpets of wool on wool, wool and wool blend Bio-Tech fabrics that are both historical neighbourhood of Beyazıt, next to the on cotton, silk on silk also carries semi-old and old sophisticated and eye-catching. Daily 10am-10pm. Grand Bazaar. A must-see for booklovers visiting carpets from all around the world with a staff since www.damat.com.tr. Valikonağı Cad. 63, Nişantaşı. the Grand Bazaar, with old and new Turkish and 1950. Daily 7.30am-9.30pm. T: 0212 343 8550-51. A6. foreign books, as well as old banknotes, coins and Sultanahmet Mah. Torun Sok.1, Sultanahmet. stamps. Eminönü, Çadırcılar Cad. 103-203, T: 0212 517 1260. F4. Ermenegildo Zegna Beyazıt. E4. The brand offers two distinct lines inc Zegna Sport Nakkaş and Z Zegna. Particularly the environmentally In İstanbul's old Sultanahmet district, there's a truly friendly Oasi Zegna Cashmere jumpers in basic Bookstores remarkable store: Nakkaş. Built over a beautifully colours appeal to both sight and touch. restored 6-century Byzantine cistern, Nakkaş D&R www.zegna.com. Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. offers fine wearings, ceramics and jewellery in the Abdi İpekçi Cad. 46/A, Nişantaşı. Offers a broad selection of books, tradition of quality crafts manship. A visit to this T: 0212 241 6500. A6. music, films, electronics, games, gifts and column-filled cistern is the first step to an exciting stationary in a modern and relaxed atmosphere, shopping adventure. Daily 9am-7pm. Hugo Boss with 45 stores throughout İstanbul. Check website www.nakkasrug.com. Nakilbent Sok. 13, Bringing together modern accessories and casual for the nearest store. Daily 10am-10pm. Sultanahmet. T: 0212 516 5222. F4 / F5. and sporty lines, Hugo Boss offers endless choices www.dr.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon inc ready-wear, watches, accessories, lingerie, Shopping Centre K:1, 179, Levent. T: 0212 353 0870. bodycare products and more, under lines including Shopping Centre Map (p.34). Clothing – Children its Boss Black, Boss Orange, Boss Green and Boss Miki House Selection. Daily 10am-10pm. Carpets Japan’s most famous and prestigious children’s www.hugoboss.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. brand, Miki House is a favourite for boys and girls İstinyePark Shopping Centre 339/468, Sarıyer. Agora Halı aged up to ten years old. There’s a vast choice of T: 0212 345 6001. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). This amazing store’s 18,000-piece private items from clothing, bags and packs, a wide range La Misura collection includes regional carpets such as Old of shoes, toys, hats and other accessories. Kazak, Konya, Sivas, Bergama and Uşak, plus the A leader in custom tailoring, La Misura designs a Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.mikihouseturkey.com. wide range of made-to-measure suits, tuxedos, exciting Contemporary Art collection. Maçka Cad. Narmanlı Apt. 24/B, Nişantaşı. www.agorarug.com. Nuruosmaniye Cad. coats, shoes, accessories and more. T: 0212 236 3649. A6. Türbedar Sok. 9, Cağaloğlu. T: 0212 528 7441. E4. www.lamisura.com.tr. Levent Cad. 54, 1. Levent. T: 0212 283 0022. Off map. Loomart When it comes to aesthetics, LoomArt is Clothing – Men committed to the best in carpet design. Its Corentte Clothing – huge collection includes unusual antique pieces Known for its made-to-measure shirts and suits, from Kerman, Konya and Tabriz (Iran), funky plus silk and cashmere neckties, the company Men & Women contemporary pieces with bold designs and bright uses fabrics from famous brands such as Charles Armani colours, and woven kilims. Some of its larger Clayton, Loro Piana, Valentino, Dormeuil, Vitale Armani’s İstanbul branch offers the trendsetting creations as the Pera Palace Hotel, and residence Barberis Cononico, Ermenegildo Zegna, and brands Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, Armani

Cote d’Azur Style World renowned brand Diane von Furstenberg’s Riviera collection now awaits fashion lovers at Beymen stores. Known for her iconic wrap dresses and printed designs, the spring-summer collection is grounded in the philosophy of easy-going, active and attractive elegance (p. 38).

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for its outlandish, unique styles, this store presents one of the designer’s most astounding collections in a contemporary atmosphere. Mon-Sat 10am- SHOPPING CENTRE MAP 8pm. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 46/B, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 7575. A6.

Zara Spanish brand offering men’s, women’s and children’s clothing. Some of its stores, inc Zara Home, feature home furnishings and accessories. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. www.zara.com. Metro City Shopping Centre G, 1. Levent. T: 0212 344 00 44. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). Clothing - Women Barbara Bui Reflecting the energy and strength of the urban woman, Barbara Bui has represented sophisticated Parisian style for 27 years. This season’s collection embodies a powerful rock spirit, and sculptural designs. Mon-Thu 10am-8pm. Fri & Sat 10am- 8.30pm. Sun noon-8pm. St. Regis İstanbul, Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 35-1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 230 3752. A6.

Brandroom Offers apparel for all occasions by select brands inc Balmain, Alexander Wang, Versace, Diane Von Furstenberg, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Salvatore Ferragamo, Jeans, EA7 and Armani Junior all in one place. H&M Tom Ford, MCQ, Catherine Malandrino, Ashish, You’ll also find a wide range of accessories Operating in cities around the world since 1947, Emilio Pucci, Thomas Wylde, Paul & Joe, See including watches, glasses, perfumes, jeans, H&M offers fashionable, quality products for men, by Chloe, Vivienne Westwood Anglomania lingerie and jewellery. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 41, women and children at attractive prices, and also and Helmut Lang, as well as broad selection of Nişantaşı. A6. stocks attractive local textiles. Daily 10am-10pm. cosmetics. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 12pm-8pm. İstinyePark Shopping Centre, İstinye Bayırı Cad. 73, Burberry www.demsagroup.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Sarıyer. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). Clothing for women, men, children and babies Polat Palas 63, Maçka. T: 0212 241 6049. A6. inc a winning mix of classic and funky raincoats, Massimo Dutti separates and accessories. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Bottega Veneta The perennial choice of people unwilling to Comfortable, quality footwear and handbag Sun 12am-6pm. www.burberry.com. Abdi İpekçi compromise on their appearance in a busy Cad. 1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 241 5516. A6. designs offering elegance and luxury. and fast-paced business life. Daily 10am-10pm. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. www.bottegaveneta.com. Dolce & Gabanna Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre The creation of Italian designers Domenico 211/310, Etiler. T: 0212 282 0939. 463, Sarıyer. T: 0212 335 6790. Dolce and Stefano Gabanna, this famous brand Shopping Centre Map (p.34). Shopping Centre Map (p.34). dazzles the eyes with its brilliant designs. The new Mavi collection makes heavy use of wool with black, Chanel Appealing to a vast range of tastes in jeans and gold and lamé designs. Daily 10am-10pm. World-renowned French brand Chanel offers casual clothing, this world-renowned Turkish brand www.dolcegabbana.com. Zorlu Center, Barbaros a wide range of products from ready-wear to also offers exclusive concept products for special Bulvarı Kavşağı, Koru Sok. Beşiktaş. accessories, beauty products and watches. Chanel occasions. Daily 10am-10pm. T: 0212 306 3398. Off map. counts Nicole Kidman, Victoria Beckham, Lily Allen, www.mavi.com. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Catherine Denevue and Audrey Tautou among its Emporio Armani Shopping Centre 235/238, Etiler. celebrity clients. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Italy’s most famous fashion brand, Emporio T: 0212 282 0423-24. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). Abdi İpekçi Cad. Nazen Apt. 65, Maçka. Armani offers ready-to-wear, jewellery, lingerie, T: 0212 368 6300. A6. glasses and watches while renewing itself with the Network appealing and unique designs of its EA07 watch Network is a global brand inspired by the Dior and Kaka jean creations. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. multicultural character of the 21st century, Highly distinguished world brand with John www.emporioarmani.com. İstinyePark Shopping introducing new trends for men and women. Galliano’s haute couture, men’s-women’s Centre 519, Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 6110. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 10am-7pm. prêt-à-porter, home decoration, skin product and Shopping Centre Map (p.34). www.network.com.tr. Teşvikiye Cad. 103, Nişantaşı. jewellery designs, Dior’s perfumes are also the T: 0212 236 6579. A6. choice of top world personalities. Daily 10am- Giorgio Armani 10pm. www.dior.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. Ralph Lauren The miraculous Italian line that shapes fashion with İstinyePark Shopping Centre 478, Sarıyer. Athletic and inspiring garments, coats and jackets its simple yet stylish collection stands out with its T: 0212 345 5930. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). casual, smart designs ideal for business life. Daily give the feeling of an American holiday. Ralph 10am-10pm. www.giorgioarmani.com. İstinye Bayırı Lauren offers unique choices for lovers of the Escada Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 518, Sarıyer. classics with its Purple Label and Black Label lines Prestigious international fashion house offering T: 0212 345 6110. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). and more casual selections with Polo Ralph Lauren. luxury apparel, accessories and fragrance Daily 10am-10pm. www.ralphlauren.com. collections for daytime, weekends and evenings. Gucci İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.escada.com. Italian fashion brand with shoes, handbags, 410-411, Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 7012. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 25/1, Nişantaşı. luggage, leather goods, furs, a ready-to-wear Shopping Centre Map (p.34). T: 0212 247 8483. A6. collection and much more. Daily 10am-7:30pm. www.gucci.com. Maçka Cad. Maçka Palas 33/C, Tom Ford Fendi Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 2080. A6. One of the world’s most prestigious brands, famed The Italian brand has launched a new boutique

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which will house handbags, shoes, small leather goods, watches, jewellery. Daily 10am-10pm. Zorlu Center, Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, Koru Sok. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 999 9810. Off map.

Louis Vuitton Ready-to-wear dresses as well as bags and accessories from the famous monogrammed leather by Marc Jacobs. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. www.louisvuitton.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 23, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 246 6975. A6.

Lurre Located in two of İstanbul’s loveliest Bosphorus neighbourhoods, Tarabya and Ortaköy, Lurre combines comfort and elegance with a wide selection for today’s urban woman. The gowns dazzle with their fine details, brilliant embroidery, and transparent silk and chiffon fabrics. Ferahevler Mah. Adnan Kahveci Cad. 43, Tarabya. T: 0212 223 0043. Off map. Mecidiye Mah. Muallim Naci Cad. 17/19, Ortaköy. T: 0212 236 3387. Off map.

Max Mara Max Mara covers all the bases for lovers of classic styles, providing a casual look for women of all ages. Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm. www.maxmara.com. Teşvikiye Cad. 7, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 259 6550. A6.

Miu Miu Designed as an independent brand by Prada, Miu Miu’s trendy footwear and dresses appeal to the child in you. Daily 10am-10pm. ww.miumiu.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 58, Sarıyer. T: 0212 329 8158. Shopping Centre Map (p.34).

Prada Considering fashion, luxury and style a mission that goes beyond the mere production of clothes, bags, and shoes, this famous Italian brand leads the world in fashion and style. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. www.prada.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 34, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 368 8450. A6.

Saint Laurent Known For His Designs Aimed At Daring, Feminine Women, The French Designer’s Shops Offer A Range Of Bold Pieces. Daily 10am-10pm. www.ysl.com. Zorlu Center, Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, Koru Sok. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 306 3390. Off map.

Salvatore Ferragamo Creativity and passion have been passed down through generations in the Ferragamo family, and with close attention to quality and detail, Salvatore Ferragamo has become known as the shoemaker for the stars. In addition to purses and shoes, the brand’s other lines of clothing have also had great success. Daily 10am-8pm. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Polat Palas, 63, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 241 6049. A6.

Stella McCartney The daughter of former Beatles member Paul McCartney, the British designer is known for her creations for famous personalities including Madonna, Jude Law and Gwynneth Paltrow. Daily 10am-10pm. www.stellamccartney.com. Zorlu Center, Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, Koru Sok. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 306 3396. Off map.

V2K Designers Prestigious Turkish couture offering elegance and a modern style. Carries many famous hip brands

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under its collection. Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. www.v2kdesigners.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 31/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 9498. A6. Turkish Designer Valentino The Italian fashion designer’s elegant shops offer Stores haute couture designs dominated by red and A46—Stylish brand and destinations for women black, collectors’ pieces, women’s accessories and who want to remain elegant both day and night. glasses. Daily 10am-10pm. www.valentino.com. www.a46.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Kaşıkçıoğlu Apt. Zorlu Center, Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, Koru Sok. 42, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 233 9031. ARZU KAPROL— Beşiktaş. T: 0212 306 3392. Off map. Arzu Kaprol couture reflects femininity, comfort and private use. www.arzukaprol.com. Serdar-ı Ekrem Cad. Kamondo Apt. 22, Galata, Beyoğlu. Coiffeurs T: 0212 252 75 71. ATIL KUTOĞLU—With an emphasis on materials like silk, cotton, wool, cashmere and Bahçecik leather in his collections, Atıl Kutuoğlu has a long Leading establishment providing the latest trends. list of international customers including Jessica Its quality and well-trained, specialized staff Alba, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Naomi Campbell and ensure customer satisfaction. Member of Haute Elizabeth Jagger. Known for his sleek eveningwear. Coiffure Française and İstanbul Artistic Coiffeurs www.atilkutoglu.com. Teşvikiye, Bostan Sok. 9/2, Association. Mon-Sat 9am-7.30pm. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 260 6067. www.bahcecik.com.tr. Ulus, Ahmet Adnan Saygun BAHAR KORÇAN—World-renowned designer Bahar Cad. Dostlar Sitesi, 5/1A, Ulus. T: 0212 257 6822. Koçan uses handwoven silk, Japanese wool textiles, organic cotton and bamboo fiber plaits. Off map. The Ritz Carlton Hotel Süzer Plaza Çarşısı. www.baharkorcan.org. Şahkulu Mah. Serdar-ı Ekrem T: 0212 244 5954. B7. Sok. Seraskerci Çıkmazı, Ferah Apt. 5, Galata, Erdem Kıramer Beyoğlu. T: 0212 293 6855. CENGİZ ABAZOĞLU— An established brand in Turkey, Erdem Kıramer Starting as a designer of leather and ready-to-wear ATIL KUTOĞLU works with Paris-based Dessange Paris, bringing brands, this designer then opened his own workshop the world’s innovations to Turkey. Its hair designs where he features his haute couture collections. His first boutique in Nişantaşı. www.cengizabazoglu.net. successfully reflect the latest in hair fashion in Abdi İpekçi Cad. 24/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 234 5242. GAMZE SARAÇOĞLU—A member of the Fashion newspaper, magazine and TV shootings, fashion ÇİĞDEM AKIN—Original and distinct designs pre- Designers Association, Saraçoğlu has worked for shows and similar events. Daily 9am-7pm. pared for special days carrying all the features made brands like Zara, Marks & Spencer and Apple. www.erdemkiramer.com.tr. Maya Residence, Bebek for individuals who follow the trend. Abdi İpekçi Inspired by life and humanity, her designs are all Mah. Otlukbeli Cad. Yol Sok. 16/17, C Blok, Etiler. Cad. Erkan Apt. 28/4, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 248 1177. expressions of her joy and positive outlook. T: 0212 352 1195. Off map. DENİZ KAPROL—One of Turkey’s foremost brands www.gamzesaracoglu.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. in jewellery and accessory design, Kaprol embel- Isparta Palas 19/3, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 6973. Hairvana lishes her elegant designs with meticulously chosen İPEK KRAMER—İpek Kramer is an important brand in Newly opened on Nişantaşı’s Abdi İpekçi Avenue, precious stones, and creates personal designs for her haute couture nightwear in Turkey. www.ipekkiramer. hair and beauty salon Hairvana is a step above customers. The necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings com. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Shopping Centre 363, the crowd with its experienced team and quality and brooches in her exclusive collections are sure Etiler. T: 0212 282 0143. GÖNÜL PAKSOY—Creativity service. It’s a top choice for women who care about to impress. www.dkaprol.com. Bağdat Cad. Noter that bears the marks of Turkish culture and history. beauty, and there’s also a men’s section. Sok. Lütfiye Apt. 21/3, Şaşkınbakkal. T: 0216 386 8600. From clothes to accessories, shawls, pillows and www.hairvana.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Kaşıkçıoğlu DİLEK HANİF—The first Turkish designer to present slippers, all of her designs are unique, special and Apt. 42/7 K:2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 234 4434 - 36. A6. her own couture collection at Paris Haute Couture reflective of her inner world. Teşvikiye, Atiye Sok. 1, fashion week. www.dilekhanif.com. Maçka Cad. Ralli Teşvikiye. T: 0212 236 0209. ÖZGÜR MASUR—Always Apt. 37/2, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 219 3723-24. striving for innovation and uniqueness in his collec- Department Stores ELİF CIGIZOĞLU—Introduces volume even to the tions, Özgür Masur is especially noted for his low most classic garments with the added origamic de- necklines, miniskirts and shorts, and finely-crafted, Beymen tails. www.elifcigizoglu.com. Teşvikiye Cad. Alhamra bold, brilliant and sexy designs. www.ozgurmasur. Beymen Men is renowned for its eye for fine detail, Apt. 28/3, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 0012. com. Ihlamur Yolu Cad., Can Apt. 11/5, Nişantaşı. special fabrics and quality. Beymen Women offers T: 0212 233 0678. ÖZLEM SÜER—With avant garde, timeless garments with romantic, nostalgic and neo-romantic designs, Özlem Süer offers alternatives ATIL KUTOĞLU feminine details that will never go out of fashion. for day or night. Party dresses, bridal gowns, concert Leading international brands also available. designs and boutique designs in over 60 shops www.beymen.com.tr. Nişantaşı, Mon-Sat 10am- abroad. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.ozlemsuer.com. 8pm. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 23/1, Nişantaşı. Özlem Süer House: Büyükçiftlik Sok. 20, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 3734800. A6. Zorlu Center, Daily 10am- T: 0212 240 5738. Özlem Süer Suadiye: Bağdat Cad. 10pm. Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, Koru Sok. Beşiktaş. Plaj Yolu Sok. 12, Suadiye. T: 0216 445 9043. T: 0212 306 3300. Off map. DERVİŞ-RAŞİT BAĞZIBAĞLI—In addition to his achievements as a haute couture designer, Raşit Boyner Bağzıbağlı is also on his way to transforming his Its men’s, women’s, children’s wear, active ready-wear brand B. Rushh into a global brand. sportswear, footwear & accessories, cosmetics and www.rasitbagzibagli.com. Levent Cad. 34, 1.Levent. housewares departments offer a vast selection of T: 0212 283 8772. SİMAY BÜLBÜL—The brand’s local and international brands. Daily 10am-10pm. personality is infused with an urban feel of the streets, İstinyePark Shopping Centre, İstinye Bayırı Cad. reflected by those who wear them. Her earthy de- Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 5070-77. signs feature unusual cuts, tooled leather and ragged details. www.sim-ay.com. Bereketzade Mah. Kuledibi, Shopping Centre Map (p.34). Bağdat Cad. 360, Kuleçıkmazı 17, Galata. T: 0212 292 7899. Suadiye. T: 0216 385 1409. Off map. SONGÜL CABACI—Appealing to the woman in Harvey NicholS search of an elegant, avant-garde look, Cabacı Kanyon Shopping Centre is the home of this creates designs that epitomise the blending of ultimate luxury designer destination. Spread over plastic arts and fashion. www.songulcabaci.com. 3 floors, it offers over 300 of world’s top designer Hacı Mimi Mah.Serdar-ı Ekrem Sok. Hoca Ali Yokuşu, 25/1, Galata. T: 0212 245 9136. labels in ladies’, men’s and children’s wear, cosmetics, fashion, and home accessories, also including premium brands. Daily 10am-10pm.

38 WHERE İstanbul I MARCH 2015 SHOPPING

www.harveynichols.com. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Ottoman, Enamel Glass, Calligraphy on Glass, imported earrings, necklaces and bracelets in Kanyon Shopping Centre, Levent. Mosaic, Ashura, Boutique Glass and others, many colours and styles. Mon-Sat 8:30am-7pm. T: 0212 319 1155. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). as well as crystal, porcelain/ceramics, and Kapalıçarşı, Koltuk Kazancılar Sok. 27, Eminönü. accessories. Daily 10am-10pm. T: 0212 528 69 72. E4. Vakko www.pasabahcemagazalari.com. Büyükdere Cad. This leading Turkish brand presents its own 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre G 141, Levent. interpretation of today’s fashions in men’s and T: 0212 353 0732. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). Hammams women’s wear while remaining true to its superior Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı fabric and manifacturing quality. Tash Corner (Bath of Roxelana) Daily 10am-10pm. www.vakko.com.tr. A warm, welcoming shop offering handmade Commissioned in 1556 to Mimar Sinan by Sultan İstinyePark, İstinye Bayırı Cad. 501/504 İstinye. designs, from silver and semiprecious stones, to Suleyman I, this hamam was named after his wife T: 0212 345 5832. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). Hürrem Sultan, popularly known as Roxelana. Kanyon Shopping Centre, Büyükdere Cad. The Haseki Hürrem Sultan Hamam has recently 138/140, Levent. T: 0212 353 1080. been restored and reopened as one of the most Shopping Centre Map (p.34). Zorlu Center, important treasures in the Ottoman-Turkish bath Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, Koru Sok. AV Z011 AV tradition. It was the first bath in which the men’s 1002, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 708 3333. Off map. and women’s sections were built to the same plan. Daily 7am-11pm. Cankurtaran Mah. Ayasofya Gift & Collectables Meydanı 2, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 517 3535. F4. Cashmere House Cashmere House is the place to look for exquisite latest styles of cashmere shawls from Nepal and Kashmir, as well as genuine silk shawls produced in the Turkish cities of Bursa and Denizli in a wide variety of colours and styles. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm. www.cashmerehouse.com.tr. Keseciler Cad. 49-51, Grand Bazaar, Beyazıt, Fatih. E4.

Gali Collection, The This home and marine collection features nature-inspired forms alongside contemporary hand-crafted silver jewellery. View the fine silver collection, and Gali-designed slippers to ward off the evil eye. Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 10am-5pm. www.thegalicollection.com. Kültür Mah. Küçük Çamlık Sitesi, Esra Sok. E Blok 2H D2, Etiler. T: 0212 234 0138. A6.

Godiva For a wonderful romantic moment or a surprise treat, this world-famous Belgian chocolatier is the GIORGIO ARMANI sweetest choice. Creating the finest chocolates İstinye Bayırı Cad. since 1926, Godiva’s tradition and legendary İstinyePark Shopping Centre 518, Sarıyer. flavour await you. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm, Sun 12am- T: 0212 345 6110. 6pm. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Ünsal Apt. 6-4, B, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 246 4186. A6.

Hiref Reflecting Anatolian art and culture in the world of contemporary Turkish design, Hiref has now added its new Bakır, Beykoz and Abdan collections to its offerings. Daily 10am-10pm. www.hiref.com.tr. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre 50-51, Levent. T: 0212 353 5450. Shopping Centre Map (p.34).

Lokum İstanbul Creating unique and original designs on İstanbul’s European side since 2005, Lokum İstanbul features Turkish delight, cologne, candles, confections, cards and very special fabrics. Daily 10am-8pm. www.lokumistanbul.com. Kuruçeşme Cad. 15, Kuruçeşme, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 287 1528. Off map. Mevlana Ceramic A single store seeling their own line of quartz and ceramic plates, vases and tiles, all made locally. Every item includes its own certificate of authenticity. Daily 7.30am-9.30pm. Sultanahmet Mah. Torun Sok.1, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 517 1260. F4.

Paşabahçe Boutique The right address for delightful premium glassware, with special collections such as

MARCH 2015 I İstanbUl WHERE 39 SHOPPING

İznik Works offers the centuries-old glory of Turkish 10.30am-7pm. www.cartierboutique.com. Abdi Homewares tile and pottery making. The finest examples of İpekçi Cad. 20, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 1317. A6. Alhammam İznik tiles in blue, green and white embellish the A world of accoutrements of historical and store. Mon-Sat 8.30am-7pm. Chopard World-renowned brand in jewellery and watches, modern hammam culture including soaps, copper www.iznikworks.com. Grand Bazaar, Takkeciler Sok. Chopard has established itself as a landmark with products, scrubs and luffas, peshtemals, towels 82-84, Eminönü. T: 0212 522 4242. F5. and hammam bowls. An excellent place to find the its custom design products. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, perfect gift or to treat yourself. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. Piculet Sat 10.30am-5.30pm. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 13/A, www.alhammam.com.cn. Çarşıkapı, Nuruosmaniye This store’s speciality is its pillow collection, crafted Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 1775. A6. from fine velvet fabrics, each with its own story. Cad. 10, Sofçuhan Girişi, Nuruosmaniye. Collection In addition to the pillows, choose from velvet- T: 0212 512 2002. E4. Since its founding, this brand has followed the upholstered Ottomans, elegant easy chairs, tables, trends and innovations in the world of jewellery and Armaggan ornate lampshades and specially-designed jacquard timepieces, and successfully represented world- This exclusive store's new Nuruosmaniye outlet and linen kilims. Daily 10am-10pm. renowned brands. Mon-Sat 10am-10pm. presents a wide variety of specially designed www.piculetstore.com www.piculet.com City’s Büyükdere Cad. Kanyon Shopping Centre objects, such as jewellery, naturally-dyed textiles, Nişantaşı, Teşvikiye Cad. 12, Mahalle Katı, Nişantaşı. 131B/132A, Levent. T: 0212 353 0975. carpets, leather goods, textiles and fine dining, all T: 0212 373 2760. A6. under one roof. Not only that, but it is also home Shopping Centre Map (p.34). to Nar Gourmet, Nar Restaurant, Nar Café, the Yazzma Gasia Culinary Arts Center (YESAM), the Armaggan Art This shop selling shawls, scarves, kaftans, slippers and pillows in a riot of colours has something to Gasia is a manufacturer and wholesaler of design Gallery and Bora Travel. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. jewellery, specializing in 24 karat hand hammered www.armaggan.com. Nuruosmaniye Cad. 65, suite any taste. The authentic products fit not only products. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. Beyazıt. T: 0212 522 4433. E4. classic decor, but modern homes as well. Mon-Sat 8.30am-7pm. www.yazzma.com. www.gasiajewelry.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 21/1, Beymen Home Kapalıçarşı, Takkeciler Sok. 58-60, Eminönü. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 2715. A6. Leading world brands in everything from T: 0212 524 6841. E4. Gilan decoration to home textiles, lighting to table The number one name in haute couture jewellery in design as well as one-of-a-kind products by Istanbul, Gilan brings the brilliance of the Ottoman, world-renowned designers. Objects created of fine Jewellery Roman and Byzantine eras back to life. materials such as crystal, brass and bronze. Daily Alef Jewellery Daily 10am-10pm. www.gilan.com. Four Seasons 10am-10pm. www.beymen.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. With a solid background in the traditional Hotel İstanbul at the Bosphorus, Çırağan Cad. 28, Akmerkez Shopping Centre, Etiler. goldsmith trade, Alef Jewellery Workshop works Beşiktaş. T: 0212 258 2163. Off map. İstinyePark T: 0212 316 6900. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). on the principles of flawless technique, aesthetics Shopping Centre, İstinye Bayırı Cad. 459, Sarıyer. Chakra and originality. Created with stones including T: 0212 345 5008. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). Towels and bathrobes from bamboo fibre that smoky quartz, onyx, amethyst and blue topaz, the Sevan Bıçakçı softens when washed, in a variety of colours and collection features brilliant rings, necklaces and Award-winning designer offering much sought- patterns. Cosmetics specially produced for Chakra elegant bracelets in designs that are anything but after pieces, particularly the unique and highly in Paris under the brand Chakra SPA Collection ordinary. www.alefgaleri.com. Hacı Emin Efendi valuable ring designs. Flawless handmade also available. Drop by for an alternative look at Sok. 4-A, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 241 3558. A6. diamond jewellery and special collections echoing houseware. Daily 10am-10pm. www.chakra.com.tr. Arte Gioia Turkish handiwork have captured the attention of Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre B2, For those in search of fine watches, jewellery collectors worldwide. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Levent. T: 0212 353 0757. and pens, this shop offers the ultimate in luxury www.sevanbicakci.com. Zorlu Center, Barbaros Shopping Centre Map (p.34). design. The high-prestige items include watches Bulvarı Kavşağı, Koru Sok. Beşiktaş. Crate & Barrell by Greubel Forsey, Cartier, IWC, Ulysse Nardin, T: 0212 353 6633. Off map. With shops in Canada, Mexico, Dubai and Franck Muller, Montblanc, Graham, Corum, Bovet Tektaş Watches & Jewellery Singapore, this American furniture, decor and and Girard-Perregaux; pens by Montblanc, OMAS Offering luxury watch and jewellery designs home accessories chain now has an İstanbul and Montegrappa and jewellery by GARDIN. Daily by Patek Philippe, Audemars-Piguet, Breguet, branch, offering stylish, comfortable products. 10am-10pm. www.artegioia.com. İstinye Park, Chopard, de Grisogono, Breitling, Gucci, Caran Daily 10am-10pm. www.crateandbarrell.com.tr. İstinye Bayırı Cad. R410, Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 6506. d’Ache and Swiss Kubik. Daily 10am-10pm. Zorlu Center, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 353 6575. Off map. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). Akmerkez, www.tektassaatcilik.com.tr. Kanyon Shopping Akasya Acıbadem, Acıbadem Mah. Çeçen Sok. K:1, Nispetiye Cad. 116, Etiler. T: 0212 282 1901. Centre, Büyükdere Cad. 1/9, 4. Levent. 371, Üsküdar. T: 0216 510 5757. Off map. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). T: 0212 353 0555. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). Dantell Aspendos Jewellery Tiara A wonderful new place for fine bed linens, Offering designs inspired by Anatolian civilizations, Tiara Jewellery offers a splendid collection tablecloths, towels, pillows, napkins and bathrobes, Apendos Jewellery uses motifs including mosques, of jewellery inspired by the artistic history of including the Dreamy Whites, Everyday Glamour, old Ottoman scripts, ancient mosaics, and the Anatolian civilizations and the creativity of Spring Garden, Ecclechic and signed Tuvana arts of calligraphy and woodcarving. Featuring contemporary artists. Made of the highest Büyükçınar’s Tuvanam For Dantell collections. diamonds and colourful natural stones, the quality gold, platinum and semi-precious stores, Special exclusive design accessories also available. collection includes unique designs like tassel the jewellery collection features the utmost in Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. www.dantell.com. necklaces whose times date back to Ottoman craftsmanship and quailty. Daily 9am-6pm. Teşvikiye Mah. Şakayık Sok. 56/17 Nişantaşı. times. www.aspendosjewellery.com. www.tiarajewellery.com. Yavuz Sinan Mah. T: 0212 224 0867. A6. Teşvikiye Cad. 29/A Şişli. T: 0212 225 6956. A6. Ragıp Gümüş Pala Cad. 69, Unkapanı. Haremlique Bvlgari T: 0212 526 6363. F5. Company offering own production of luxury Leading name in Italian-style jewellery and Tiffany & Co. linens and towels as well as fine silks, cashmeres, precious fashion pieces since 1884. Mon-Sat 10am- Renowned for its rare and magnificent diamonds, upholstery and home accessories for the finest 9pm. Bayıldım Cad. 2, Swissôtel the Bosphorus, Tiffany & Co. has for decades been the world’s homes, yachts and boutique hotels. Mon-Sat 10am- Maçka. T: 0212 259 0227. B7. premier jeweller and America’s finest house of 7pm. www.haremlique.com. Zorlu Center, Beşiktaş. Cartier Boutique design. Tiffany style is defined by groundbreaking T: 0212 236 3843. Off map. Watches, wedding and engagement rings, designers and glamorous collections. Mon-Sat İznik Works diamond jewellery and other luxury items are 10am-6.30pm. www.tiffany.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. A homely store in the heart of the Grand Bazaar, available from this leading French brand. Mon-Sat Atiye Sok. 9/B, Teşvikiye. T: 0212 219 8346. A6.

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Check out their special new designs in their Kingdom and the United States, it offers Turkish Zeytinburnu and Nuruosmaniye stores. Daily delight or lokum, hard candies, nut pastes, halvahs 8am-6.30pm. www.kuzu.com.tr. Bab-ı Ali Cad. 7/A and dragees. Daily 8am-8pm. İstiklal Cad. 83/A, Cağaloğlu. T: 0212 513 5898. F5. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 2804. C5.

Bebek Badem Ezmesi Perfumery Sweet shop famous for its almond and pistachio pastes. Products are always fresh and made from Jo Malone top-quality ingredients. Daily 9.30am-8pm. Cevdet Try and choose the best perfumes from a broad Paşa Cad. 53/C, Bebek. T: 0212 263 5984. Off map. range of products from Jo Malone, which adheres to the philosophy that perfume should match the Faruk Güllüoğlu person’s skin and character. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Popular both in Turkey and around the world, Sun 12am-6pm. www.jomalone.com. Güllüoğlü in Karaköy has served traditional Turkish Teşvikiye Cad. 33, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 231 4416. A6. baklava and other sweets for two centuries with the same meticulous care at every stage in the process. La Déesse Mon-Sat 7am-7pm. www.gulluoglu.com.tr. Turkey’s first ever perfume design boutique, La Rıhtım Cad. Katlı Otopark Altı 3-4, Karaköy. Déesse is perfect for anyone who wants to create T: 0212 293 0910. D5. his or her own special fragrance. You can also find the world’s most exclusive brands, including Keiko Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi Escapefromsofa Mecheri, which was inspired by Turkish delight. The origins of coffee culture throughout the Lüleci Hendek Cad. Beyoğlu. Daily 9.30am-7.30 pm. www.ladeesse.com.tr. world today can be traced back to Turkish coffee. T: 0212 252 3340. Teşvikiye Cad. 31/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 230 0001. A6. For centuries, coffee was originally purchased as green beans to be taken home, roasted in pans, Sephora then ground in hand cranked mills or mortar and More than 10,000 brand-name products in a Urart pestles. This long, tedious and exhausting process variety of categories from makeup to skin-care This jeweller in bustling Nişantaşı stands out had to be undertaken every time to savour a cup of plus exclusive secret formula products unique to with its unique, modern designs that draw upon coffee. Daily 8am-7pm. www.mehmetefendi.com. Sephora. Daily 10am-10pm. www.sephora.com. and interpret the very special works of Anatolian Rüstem Paşa, Hasırcılar Cad. Tahmis Sok. 66, İstinye Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre, civilisations and cultures. Mon-Sat 9.15am-7.15pm. Eminönü. T: 0212 511 4262-63. E4. L326-327, İstinye. T: 0212 345 6035. www.urart.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 18/1, Nişantaşı. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). T: 0212 246 7194. A6. Watches Shoes & Bags IWC Schaffhausen Leather & Fur The famous luxury watch brand presents its Pilot’s Christian Louboutin Desa watch celebrating the history of aviation. Other This season, timeless French designer Louboutin Established in 1972, this brand now operates with notable models include Aquatimer Diver; the is renowned for his high-heeled, red-soled shoes. 73 stores in Turkey and 2 abroad. In addition to Da Vinci; Ingenieur, celebrating technology and The Summerissima is one of the many striking leather products, it also produces silk, chiffon, engineering; and the Portofino, created in honour shoes from the collection. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, cashmere and knitwear skirts, jackets, trousers, of 1930 Portuguese sailors. Mon-Sat10.30am-7pm. Sun 12am-8pm. www.christianlouboutin.com. Abdi coats and accessories. Daily 10am-10pm. www.iwc.com/turkey. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. Altın İpekçi Cad. 22/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 296 7870. A6. www.desa.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. 1, Nişantaşı. Sok. 4/A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 224 4604. A6. T: 0212 232 1290. A6. Bağdat Cad. 443/A, Suadiye. Deriden Panerai T: 0216 416 4368. Off map. İstinyePark Shopping Local distributor of world-famous brands inc Opened in 1860 in the city of Florence as a watch- Centre 398, Sarıyer. T: 0212 245 6740. DKNY, Timberland, Sebago, Kowalski, Calvin Klein, making workshop and a shop, Panerai has its Shopping Centre Map (p.34). Bikkembergs, Boticelli, Lion, Palladium, Logan, and roots deep beneath the sea. Providing sensitive Buffalo. Daily 10am-10pm. www.deriden.com.tr. Deriden measuring instruments for the Italian Army, the Çırağan Cad. Vapur İskelesi Sok. 1, Ortaköy. Local distributor of world-famous brands inc company specialised in diving watches for special T: 0212 261 7666. A9. DKNY, Timberland, Sebago, Kowalski, Calvin Klein, operations of the Undersea Commandos. Bikkembergs, Boticelli, Lion, Palladium, Logan, and Giusseppe Zanotti Design Mon-Fri 10am-6.30pm, Sat 10am-4.30pm. Buffalo. Daily 10am-10pm. Glamorous women’s footwear by this Italian www.panerai.com. Abdi İpekçi Cad. www.deriden.com.tr. Çırağan Cad. Vapur İskelesi designer is excellent for social functions with its Altın Sok. 2/2, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 291 5959. A6. Sok. 1, Ortaköy. T: 0212 261 7666. A9. dressy style that emphasizes femininity. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giuseppe-zanotti-design.com. Derishow Abdi İpekçi Cad. 24/26, Nişantaşı. Wedding Clothes Establishment providing fine leather products and T: 0212 232 0745. A6. different designs for its customers since 1987. Beymen Bridal Beymen offers a host of bridal dresses to women Daily 10am-10pm. www.derishow.com.tr. İstinye Tory Burch Bayırı Cad. İstinyePark Shopping Centre 507, This U.S. designer, who made a name for himself preparing for that special day, and is Turkey’s exclusive source for top designers including Lanvin, Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 5908. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). with his flats named after his mother Reva, offers a luxurious collection of leather and patent leather Christos, Amsale, Kenneth Pool, Romona, Keveza, Koç Deri bags, accessories, shoes, flats and boots in its Valentino and Albertta Ferretti. Mon-Sat 10am- Established in 1968, Koç Deri manufactures for single location. Daily 10am-10pm. 8pm, Sun 12am-8pm. www.beymen.com. Abdi global brands including Armani and Dolce & www.toryburch.com. Zorlu Center, Barbaros Bulvarı İpekçi Cad. 23/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 4800. A6. Gabbana. One of the most widely known stores Kavşağı, Koru Sok. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 306 3394. Vakko Wedding in the Grand Bazaar, it is also a favourite Off map. of many celebrities. Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. Vakko style meets designer wedding gowns by www.kocderi.com. Grand Bazaar, Kürkçüler Çarşısı world-renowned fashion brands including Oscar De La Renta, Vera Wang, Emanuel Ungaro, Elie by 22/46, Eminönü. T: 0212 527 5553. E4. Turkish Delicacies Elia Saab, Marchesa, Vera Wang, Monique Lhuillier, Kuzu Deri Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir Reem Acra and Valentino, to create an epic Keeping up with fashion with the finest leather An international brand with an extensive exports atmosphere. Daily 10am-10pm. and fur goods since 1960, Kuzu Deri also has network spanning the world from Japan to New www.vakko.com.tr. Zorlu Center, Barbaros Bulvarı branches in France, Sweden, Norway and Russia. Zealand, the Middle East, Latvia, the United Kavşağı, Koru Sok. Beşiktaş. Off map.

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The Joy of Fish on the Special Valentine’s Day Bosphorus Temptations Located right on the Bosphorus in the 150-year-old Körükçü Mansion, Holder of the prestigious title ‘Grand Officier Maitre Sur Balık Arnavutköy continues to be a magnet for diners with a Rotisseur’, Chef Rudolf van passion for seafood. Nunen has created a very special line-up of flavours for erving mainly Mediterranean food plus to please any seafood aficionado. Items on his Valentine’s Day menu, Love a selection of fish dishes from around the menu are brought from the dishes’ home Transmission. After a romantic Sthe world, the restaurant beckons region, including sea bass from the cold dinner, couples can enjoy live with its incomparable view. Sur Balık keeps waters of the Black Sea, and freshly caught music and a DJ performance in it simple, with attractive white décor, crisp calamari. Some of the must-try items include Rudolf Bar. white tablecloths and photographs of old fish in their own special breading, and baked İstanbul on the walls. fish in vine leaves that go through three Featuring light neutral tones, the different processes in their preparation. restaurant’s decor is both simple and chic, The perfect place for anyone who wants with paintings on the walls and striking to gaze at the beauty of İstanbul from the lighting providing stunning accents. Serving Bosphorus, the 200-seat Sur Balık Arnavutköy from 7pm-11pm, Rudolf provides the perfect welcomes guests for both lunch and dinner. spot for those in search of healthy, elegant Bebek Arnavutköy Cad. 52, Bebek. dining. T: 0212 257 2743. www.surbalik.com The food is masterfully prepared and sure

44 WHERE İstanbul I MARCH 2015 best of İstanbul dining

Park Fora Since 1996, Park Fora has been renowned as one of İstanbul’s most elegant restaurants, which you instantly feel on entering its waterfront terrace. In keeping with the exclusive ambience, it’s matched by a stellar Bosphorus view, amazing park setting and outstanding service. There’s a huge variety of beautifully presented seafood, such as stuffed anchovies and marinated sea bass, plus a brilliant selection of wines from around the world to raise the bar for restaurants throughout the city. Muallim Naci Cad. Cemil Topuzlu Parkı İçi 54/A, Ortaköy. T: 0212 265 5063 www.parkfora.com

Tapasuma Located in the Sumahan Hotel in Çengelköy on İstanbul’s Asian side, Tapasuma possesses a calming atmosphere, mainly thanks to its location overlooking the Bosphorus, plus its striking design with its attractive stone walls. In addition to seasonal fish, Tapasuma’s menu offers unusual Turkish and Mediterranean dishes and bite-size Turkish mezes. Some of its outstanding items include shank of Thracian lamb yahni, and kibbeh cooked on a griddle. Boat service from Kuruçeşme is available. Kuleli Cad. 43, Çengelköy. T: 0216 401 1333 www.tapasuma.com

The Galliard Bringing a fine dining and bar concept to İstanbul, The Galliard boasts elegant design accented with handmade crafts and discerning art pieces. Its extensive menu offers selections from Mediterranean, French, Spanish and Italian cuisines, plus a choice of 52 different cocktails. And to top all that, the venue also features live music. Nispetiye Cad. Etiler Apt. 104/C, Etiler. T: 444 0 223 (reservations) www.thegalliard.com

La Petite Maison The smart, rustic restaurant La Petite Maison blends fresh seasonal ingredients of the Côte d’Azur and neighbouring Liguria region to produce delicious flavours of French Mediterranean cuisine. Try their simple, healthy dishes with seafood and fresh pasta and you’re transported to the olive groves of southern France. Maçka Palas, Maçka Cad. 33/B, Şişli. T: 0212 232 0232 www.lpmistanbul.com.tr

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selections. HHH Daily L & D. www.hori.com.tr. HHHH Daily L & D. Sinanpaşa Mah. Hayrettin AEGEAN Grand Hyatt Hotel, Harbiye Mah. Taşkışla Cad. 1, İskelesi Sok. 1, Beşiktaş.T: 0212 275 8888. B7. Lokanta Maya Şişli. T: 0212 230 9000. B6. Wagamama A warm, simple restaurant with a menu focusing Miyabi Sushi Extensive menu offers distinctive asian flavours. on Aegean and Mediterranean specialities, Maya The elegant restaurant serves top-class Japanese A big hit with noodle lovers, this restaurant offers a uses only fresh seasonal ingredients. Some of the food in a modern atmosphere. Featuring natural pleasant and entertaining dining ambiance. favourites include chicken liver pate, marinated sea wood décor and a Zen garden, it offers a wide HHH Daily L & D. www.wagamama.com.tr. bass and fish croquettes. HHH Mon-Sat L & D. variety of Japanese dishes plus a sushi menu. HHH www.lokantamaya.com. Kemankeş Cad. 35 A, Büyükdere Cad. 185, Kanyon Shopping Centre, Daily L&D. Zeytinoğlu Cad. Yaren Sok. 6/ 14-15, Karaköy. T: 0212 252 6884. D5. Levent. T: 0212 353 0474. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). Akatlar, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 352 0222. Off map. Zuma ASIAN & Far EASTERN Maromi Japanese dining traditions, alive and well in the The restaurant has been an Istanbul hit since the heart of İstanbul. Exciting interior is an extra Banyan day it opened, enhanced by a mystical atmosphere attraction to this restaurant overlooking the The exquisite flavours of the Far East. Famous for with decor brought from Japan. Stars on the menu Bosphorus. Japanese and world cuisines available its omelette varieties from 20 countries. Menus include tofu salad and calamari crepes, and for at sushi and grill bars. Booking required. include samosa with Vietnamese-style vegetable dessert, green tea ice cream. HHH Daily L & D. HHHH Daily L & D. www.zumarestaurant.com. chili sauce, Singapore-style noodles and sushi. www.divan.com.tr. Divan İstanbul, Asker Ocağı Salhane Sok. 7, Ortaköy. T: 0212 236 2296. A9. HHHH Daily L & D. www.banyanrestaurant.com. Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 315 5500. B6. Muallim Naci Cad. Salhane Sok. 3/2, Ortaköy. P.F. Changs T: 0212 259 9060-70. Off map. This Chinese bistro is famed for its delicious food, brıtısh Dragon Restaurant authentic décor and fine service, and the majestic Tom’s Kitchen Delicious dishes by Hong Kong chefs served in a horses that greet its guests at the door. Exotic Tom’s kitchen serves comfort food favourites in a spacious interior decorated in classical Chinese flavours in portions large enough to share are relaxed and environment, from breakfast to dinner. style. Specialties include crispy duck and stir-fried accompanied by a good choice of wines, special Menu highlights include fish pie, steak tartare, dishes. HHHH Daily L & D. www.hilton.com.tr. cocktails, sake and beer. HHH shepherd’s pie. HHH Daily B & L & D. Hilton İstanbul, Cumhuriyet Cad. Harbiye. www.pfchangs.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. 94, Etiler. Zorlu Center, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 353 6677. Off map. T: 0212 231 6200. B6. T: 0212 358 6060. Off map. Hori Shang Palace bıstro With its traditional Japanese menu, serene music Exciting classical and innovative Chinese dishes and lush green garden, Hori is everything you are served alongside information on the cuisine. Brasserie Cognac De Monsieur Ballon would want in a Japanese restaurant. The menu Favourites include Peking duck, filet mignon slices Serving some of Istanbul’s finest French cuisine, includes sashimi, sushi and fried and steamed marinated in Chinese wine, and ginger seafood. Brasserie Cognac is located on the ground floor

46 WHERE İstanbul I MARCH 2015 DINING

of Akmerkez shopping mall. Remaining true to including the famous Viennese blend. The Limonata Apartment authentic French brasserie style, the elegant “Eiskaffee” with ice cream is a summer favorite. Limonata is one of İstanbul’s most fashionable restaurant serves classics like duck l’orange and HHH Daily B, L & D. www.cafewien.com. spots. Enjoy a delicious lunch or dinner, or choose mussels marinière. Daily B, L & D. Maçka Cad. Reasürans Çarşısı 62, Teşvikiye. from an impressive selection of cocktails at the www.brasseriecognacturkiye.com. Etiler Nispetiye T: 0212 233 7860. A6. unique Limonata bar. HHH Daily L & D. Cad. Akmerkez AVM, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 352 5050. Bostan Sok. 13, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 373 2300. A6. Clock Tower Cafe Shopping Centre Map (p.34). Located in the private gardens at the entrance NaN Şişhane Mangerie of Dolmabahçe Palace, the Clock Tower Café is NaN Şişhane’s Aperitivo Italiano are the perfect Mangerie has been a top eating spot for Istanbul a wonderful destination year round, with indoor way to unwind; the wood-dominated, minimalist and Bebek socialites. With its extensive menu and and outdoor sections. Located right on the décor with brick walls and hanging lamps add wine list to match, plus a commanding view of Bosphorus, enjoy hot and cold drinks, breakfast warmth to the mood. Offering Turkish and world Bebek Bay, it’s become an Istanbul classic. Try the and snack foods in a relaxing, historic atmosphere. cuisine, it’s a wonderful new hangout. lamb and hand-cut noodle salad, the skewered Daily 9am-2am. Dolmabahçe Sarayı outer garden, www.nanşişhane.com Meşrutiyet Cad. 102 A, shrimp and Mangerie burger. HH Daily B, L & D. Dolmabahçe Cad. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 9000. B7. Şişhane, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 0174. C5. www.mangeriebebek.com. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 69/3, Çinili Cafe Ritim Galata Küçükbebek. T: 0212 263 5199. Off map. Serving Assyrian and regional specialities plus This café’s high ceilings and smart décor give it a Nişantaşı Brasserie original dishes, this comfortable spot in the Grand distinct historical atmosphere with its lively mood With décor by Zeynep Fadıllıoğlu, Nişantaşı Bazaar is a boutique café also offering antiques and delicious choice of snack foods, it’s the ideal Brasserie is one of İstanbul’s most popular spots. and specially designed giftware. The menu spot for a break on your tour of Galata. The menu offers classic dishes adapted for modern includes sweet treats like apple pie and homemade Galata Kulesi Sok. 3/D, Galata, Beyoğlu. tastes, including French onion soup, duck’s liver, cakes, and lunch dishes of mantı, hummus and T: 0212 292 4929. C5. steak Tartare, and ‘Café de Paris’ filet mignon. stuffed köfte from Turkey’s southeast. HHH Daily B, L & D. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Bostan Sok. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. Kapalıçarşı, Halıcılar Cad. 97, CAFE, restaurant& 23/1, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 343 0443. A6. Eminönü. T: 0212 520 9504. E4. Fes Café BAR CAFE Nestled in the Grand Bazaar, Fes Café with its Ada Bosphorus Ottoman -and- contemporary style interior, is an It is an ideal place to relax while sampling Café Wien ideal spot for a coffee break without having to delicious dishes while enjoying a stunning view European-style coffee and cakes made in house, leave the authentic atmosphere of the bazaar. of the Bosphorus. The space is open and airy and offering a Viennese style café atmosphere. 26 HH Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. www.fescafe.com. breakfast on the terrace overlooking the water is a pastries and 18 coffees and to choose from, Halıcılar Cad. 62, Kapalıçarşı. T: 0212 528 1613. E4. special treat. HH Daily B&L&D.

MARCH 2015 I İstanbUl WHERE 47 DINING

www.adakitapcafe.com. Muallim Naci Cad. 1. Bebek Cad. 115, Akıntıburnu, Arnavutköy. Öksüz Çocuk Sok. 1, Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 263 4829. Off map. Guidelines T: 0212 263 9003. Off map. Arnavutköy Balıkçısı This directory, grouped by category, is a Gazebo A cozy restaurant with simple, unpretentious compendium of establishments recommended Located in an old seaside mansion in Yeniköy, decor complemented by nostalgic photos of the by the editors of Where Magazine and includes with magnificent Bosphorus views, Gazebo offers Arnavutköy waterfront. The menu includes cold regular advertisers. flavours from all corners of the globe. Must-try mezes like mackerel with soy sauce, salt-cured tuna MAP LOCATIONS dishes include the filet mignon with Cafe De Paris and sea bass salad, and hot appetizers like sauteed Note that the references at the end of each list- sauce, Lebanese kebab, and lamb shank. B, L & D. monkfish, fried calamari and fish croquettes. ing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to pages 70-71. www.gazebo-ist.com. Köybaşı Cad. 75, Yeniköy. HHHH Daily L & D. www.arnavutkoybalikcisi.com. T: 0212 299 8487. Off map. 1. Cadde 4, Arnavutköy. T: 0212 257 0525. Off map. GENERAL information Reservations for most restaurants are strongly Noi Restaurant & Bar Balıkçı Sabahattin advised. Check when booking that the restau- Set up as a glassed-fronted, enclosed winter Extensive fish menu and excellent service, rant will accept your credit card. Value Added garden, this restaurant offers an excellent located in the historical area of Cankurtaran, Tax (VAT) is automatically included in the bill, panoramic view of the city. Start the day with its near Sultanahmet. The skillfully prepared fish but tips are generally not added. A 10% cash delicious breakfast spreads including homemade is especially good with rakı, and the mussel gratuity is common. granola, or enjoy dinner of global cuisine. Daily pilaf and courgette with yoghurt come highly PLEASE NOTE: ALL RESTAURANTS & B, L & D. www.noiistanbul.com. Otlukbeli Cad. recommended. HHH Daily L & D. BARS ARE NON-SMOKING. Bebekköy Sok. 4, Etiler. T: 0212 287 1506. Off map. www.balikcisabahattin.com. Şehit Hasan Kuyu Sok. 1, Cankurtaran, Fatih. T: 0212 458 1824. F5. The House Café index to abbreviations B: Open for breakfast L & D: Open lunch & The House Cafe was established in 2002 at an Bebek Balıkçı dinner only. apartment building in Teşvikiye. In a short period of This restaurant located in the upmarket time, the cafe became a success with its seasonal neighbourhood of Bebek on the Bosphorus serves PRICES and fresh ingredients providing food, wide range a full array of seafood, with specialities including Prices per person for three courses and coffee, of beverages and cosy environment. grilled and pan-fried fish, and fish cooked in paper. no alcohol. www.thehousecafe.com. The House Cafe Ortaköy, HHHH Daily L & D. www.bebekbalikci.net. H – TL 0-30 per person HH Salhane Sok. 1, Ortaköy, T: 0212 227 2699. Off map. Cevdet Paşa Cad. 26/A, Bebek. T: 0212 263 3447. – TL 30-60 per person HHH – TL 60-90 per person The House Cafe Teşvikiye, Atiye Sok. 10-11, Off map. HHHH – over TL 90 per person Teşvikiye. T: 0212 259 2377. A6. Chef Mezze Located actually in the Bosphorus, this restaurant contemporary offers fresh seafood plus Middle Eastern, calamari with almond tarator and mackerel with Mediterranean and Aegean mezes. Shrimp risotto aioli. It also boasts incomparable views of the European and linguini with lobster are two of the most- Prince’s Islands. HHHH www.galatalibalik.com. Circle Brasserie ordered specialties. Daily L & D. HHHH Plaj Yolu Sok Suadiye Park, A Blok 18, Kadıköy. Located in the Mualla Hanım Mansion, Circle www.chefmezze.com. Sortie, Muallim Naci Cad. 54, T: 0216 410 3959-69. Off map. Brasserie offers casual fine dining in a romantic Kuruçeşme. T: 0530 067 5040. Off map. Kıyı atmosphere, directly on the sparkling waters of the Çengelköy İskele Restaurant A unique fish restaurant on the Bosphorus with Bosphorus. The menu offers a tempting variety, Best fish restaurant on the Asian side, both for wood-paneled décor and photographs and from asparagus risotto to lamb shanks, octopus the quality of its fish and its Bosphorus view. paintings by Turkish artists that give an intimate marinated in wine sauce and delicious pizzas. Established as a Greek coffeehouse in the early club feel. Try the delicious seafood and liver dishes. HHHHDaily B, L & D. www.circle.com.tr. Köybaşı 1800s, it became a Greek tavern before assuming HHH Daily L & D. www.kiyi.com.tr. Haydar Aliyev Cad. Daire Sok. Mualla Hanım Yalısı, 5/A,Yeniköy. its current form in 1950. Specialties include grilled Cad. 186, Tarabya. T: 0212 262 0002. Off map. T: 0212 262 8455. Off map. calamari in soy sauce, shrimp in vine leaves, turbot, HHH Nicole sea bream, haddock and gurnard. Daily L & D. Limani Nicole occupies an elegant terrace with a view www.cengelkoyiskelerestaurant.com. This comfortable restaurant on the shores of the of the Historic Peninsula, the Prince’s Islands and Çengelköy İskele Gazinosu Sok. 4, Çengelköy. Bosphorus specialises in fresh seasonal fish with beyond. The chefs create new interpretations T: 0216 321 5506. Off map. traditional sauces. Look out also for favourite items such as octopus yahni: oven-baked octopus with of classic flavours, with fresh vegetables from Del Mare vegetables. HHH The Grand Tarabya, Haydar Feriköy’s organic market, focusing on freshly- Excellent location on the Bosphorus with a Aliyev Cad. 154, Tarabya, Sarıyer. caught local seafood and native Kıvırcık lamb. delightful view, especially inviting at sunset. www.thegrandtarabya.com. T: 0212 363 3300. HHHH Daily D. Tomtom Suites, Boğazkesen Cad. Extensive Italian and Greek menu: Try specialities Off map. Tomtom Kaptan Sok.18, Beyoğlu. including mussel ravioli, paella, and fish on mashed T: 0212 292 4467. C5. eggplant. Also accessible by boat from Kuruçeşme Park Fora on the European side. HHHH Daily L&D. Nopa Popular restaurant offering delicious seafood and Among the cafés you’ll find this elegant restaurant www.del-mare.com. Kuleli Cad. 53/4, Çengelköy. high-quality service. Appetizers include salted T: 0216 422 5762. Off map. with a long bar, vertical gardens on its walls, a bonito, octopus salad, shrimp roquefort and grilled glass ceiling and an exclusive cocktail menu. Eftalya calamari. Fishcakes and salt-baked fish highly Recommended dishes include exotic seafood With a maritime-themed interior complete with recommended. HHHH Daily L & D. specialities, plus beef ribs roasted for 12 hours, and mermaid reliefs, choose your fish and enjoy www.parkfora.com.tr. Muallim Naci Cad. Cemil lamb shank menu for two. HHHH Daily L, D & N. appetizers with marvellous Bosphorus views. Topuzlu Parkı 54-A, Ortaköy. T: 0212 265 5063. A9. Atiye Sok. 6, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 327 5868. A6. Be sure to try the tomato and onion salad, fried Poseidon calamari and seasonal fish varieties. HHH Daily L Seafood at its best against a magnificent view & D. www.eftalya.net. Arnavutköy Mah. 1. Cad. 32, FISH & SEAFOOD of İstanbul. Specialties include stuffed calamari, Arnavutköy. T: 0212 287 2520. Off map. baked as well as Greek-style grilled octopus, Akıntıburnu Suadiye, Kazım Özalp Sok. 60, Suadiye. This lovely restaurant in Arnavutköy offers a cold meats, a variety of Turkish and foreign wines T: 0216 350 0152. Off map. glorious Bosphorus view, freshly-caught fish and and a special şöbiyet (cream-filled baklava) from seafood, and mezes prepared daily. The mackerel Galatalı Balık Gaziantep. HHHH Daily L & D. with soy sauce, baked shellfish and quince dessert Galatalı Balık serves Cunda cuisine (from Turkey’s www.poseidonbebek.com. Küçük Bebek, Cevdet are some of the favourites. HHH Daily L & D. northwest coast) including Aegean wild greens, Paşa Cad. 58, Bebek. T: 0212 287 9531. Off map.

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Sur Balık Arnavutköy Kuleli Cad. 43, Çengelköy. T: 0216 401 1333. Off map. béarnaise sauce, miso soup, tofu and tuna tataki Sur Balık is located in a simple 150-year-old salad, and a selection of Asian desserts. Tarihi Karaköy Balıkçısı seaside mansion, with walls sporting old İstanbul Guests can also enjoy live jazz performances This historical fish restaurant offers fresh fish every photographs. Sea bass marinated with basil, (Fri&Sat). HHH Daily 11am-11pm. weekday between 12pm and 4pm. Fish is displayed anglerfish ricado and profiteroles with tahini are www.martiistanbulhotel.com. at the entrance; select your fish and wait for it to be just a few of the highly-recommended treats. Abdülhak Hamit Cad. 25/B, Taksim. prepared by expert chefs. HHH Daily L & D. HHH Daily L & D. www.surbalik.com. T: 0212 987 4020. C5. www.tarihikarakoybalikcisi.com. Tersane Cad. Bebek Arnavutköy Cad. 52, Arnavutköy. La Brise Brasserie T: 0212 257 2743-44. Off map. Kardeşim Sok. 45, Karaköy. T: 0212 251 1371. D4. A brasserie with an Art Nouveau décor, La Brise Tapasuma offers always seasonal cooking and a great Tapasuma serves traditional Turkish treats in hot french selection of drinks. Unmissable dishes include and cold tapas form, along with fresh fish from steak tartare, duck confit and Chateaubriand. Brass the Bosphorus and a range of mezes. Enjoy the HHH Daily L & D. www.brasserielabrise.com. panoramic views on the shores of the Bosphorus Combining two types of contrasting cuisine in Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 11A, Nişantaşı. – there’s also a boat service available from luxurious simplicity, the menu at Brass offers T: 0212 244 4846. A6. Kuruçeşme. HHH Daily L & D. www.tapasuma.com. such treats as bouillabaisse and filet mignon with La Petite Maison With a menu that takes you to the French Riviera, this restaurant with high ceilings and a formal garden is pure French. The cuisine focuses especially on the dishes of Nice and the Mediterranean; the grilled lamb sautéed in herbs is one of the stars of the menu. Daily L & D. www.lpmistanbul.com.tr. Maçka Palas, Maçka Cad. 33/B, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 232 0232. A6. INTERNATIONAL Agatha Restaurant The main restaurant of the recently-reopened Pera Palace Hotel, Agatha combines French, Italian and Turkish flavours – all on the route of Orient Express – and presents them in a stylish atmosphere. Very good wine list. HHH Daily B, L&D. Pera Palace Hotel, Meşrutiyet Cad. 52, Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 377 4000. C4.

AzzuR Restaurant Bringing famous Mövenpick dining to İstanbul, AzzuR Restaurant’s menu offers Mediterranean flavours plus the original tastes of modern Turkish cuisine. Head Chef Giovanni Terracciano’s homemade pasta, Italian-style pizzas and exquisite risottos are just a few of the must-try items on the menu. Daily B, L & D. www.moevenpick-hotels.com. Büyükdere Cad. 4.Levent. T: 0212 319 2929. Off map.

Bej Karaköy With a menu offering both Turkish and European cuisine and fresh fruit cocktails, this French-style restaurant stays open into the night on weekends. Make sure to sample the salads and desserts. HH Mon-Thu 10am-12am, Fri & Sat 10am-2am. Sun 10am-5pm. Kemankeş Cad. Fransız Geçidi İş Merkezi, 11 A, Karaköy. T: 0212 251 7195. C5.

Cafe Sofa This delightful café with a simple, home-style décor, offers a menu of dishes from around the world. In addition, it also serves its special coffee and cocktails day and night. HHH Daily B, L & D. www.thesofahotel.com. The Sofa Hotel, Teşvikiye Cad. 41-41 A, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 368 1818. A6.

Can Oba Restaurant It may be small in size but it’s huge in quality. This restaurant offers delicious dishes created by chef Can Oba and his team, including their signature fish soup and seafood with a tempting choice of sauces. Mon-Sat L & D. Hoca Paşa Sok. 10, Sirkeci. T: 0212 522 1215. D6.

Cantinery This restaurant, featuring decor by American

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designers Roman & Willams, offers a wide range of old city the restaurant is a choice for extended superb 360-degree view, the Maiden’s Tower innovative dishes including lobster burger, shrimp luncheons, after-work cocktails, and dinner dates. serves as a coffee house during the day and carpaccio, codfish gyoza and mastic cheesecake. Divan Brasserie’s menu is a journey through restaurant in the evenings, with tasty international The fresh Italian-style breads baked daily are Mediterranean cuisine and international classics. cuisines. Live music by local and international especially delicious. Daily B, L & D. Zorlu Center, HH Mon, Wed, Sun L&D. Thu-Sat L&D&N. musicians after 10pm. Accessible by boat service Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, Koru Sok. Beşiktaş. www.divan.com.tr Tom Tom Mah. İstiklal Cad. departing from Salacak on the hour. T: 0212 353 6365. Off map. Merkezhan, K:5 & 6, 181, Beyoğlu. HHH Daily L & D. www.kizkulesi.com.tr. Salacak T: 0212 243 2481. C4. Mevkii, Üsküdar. T: 0216 342 4747. D7. Cipriani This international restaurant chain is, famous for Divan Brasserie Bebek Kitchenette its unique approach to world dining. The interior The brasserie offers breathtaking views and a menu A quality chain with locations throughout İstanbul, is striking with its walnut and earth-toned interior that combines the best of Turkish and international Kitchenette boasts a broad array of dishes and low tables, and the menu offers all the classic cuisine, including classic and modern flavours, including breakfast, starters, sandwiches, salads, flavours of Harry’s Bar in Venice. HHH Daily L & D. complemented by an extensive wine cellar. pastas, meat, fish-seafood, fresh bread, cakes, and www.cipriani.com. Edition Hotel, Levent Mah. HHH Daily B & L & D. www.divan.com.tr. Cevdet exclusively produced house wines, olives and olive Büyükdere Cad. 2/1, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 317 7787. Paşa Cad. 28/A, Bebek. T: 0212 263 2973. Off map. oils. HHH Daily B, L & D. www.kitchenette.com.tr. Off map. The Marmara Taksim, Gümüşsuyu Mah. Takı Zafer Divan Brasserie Kalamış Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 292 6862. B6. City Lights This is an excellent choice for those looking to Commanding a breathtaking Bosphorus view from escape the city’s hustle and bustle, a safe haven La Delicatesse Restaurant the roof of the Taksim Ceylan Intercontinental of calm and elegance where you can enjoy Looking for something different? Hotel, City Lights adds live music, delicious food, Divan chefs’ most enticing specialities, against a Try La Delicatesse to take in the colours of the fine wines and a great selection of cocktails. If it’s backdrop of white sailboats riding at anchor. seaside and enjoy the enchanting moonlight with an exclusive evening you’re after, look no further. HH Mon-Fri B, L & D; Fri & Sat B, L, D & N. family and friends, and savour dishes prepared with HHHH istanbul.intercontinental.com.tr. www.divan.com.tr. Amiral Fahri Korutürk Yat Limanı, care and love. HHH Daily L & D. Intercontinental İstanbul, Asker Ocağı Cad. 1, Kalamış. T: 0216 414 5703. Off map. www.cinarhotel.com.tr. Çınar Hotel Fener Mevkii, Taksim. T: 0212 368 4444. B6. Yeşilköy. T: 0212 663 2900. Off map. Galata Kiva Colonie One of the most notable products of the Laledan This neo-bistro concept restaurant’s dark coloured multicultural Ottoman civilization is its cuisine. Kiva Boasting an open buffet breakfast with over 250 seating and hanging lamps blend well with its offers the perfect opportunity to rediscover the items with 80% organic ingredients, and Arab, bright atmosphere. Boasting its own in-house secret flavours of Anatolia. Also with a branch on Asian and sushi corner between 6.30am and 11am. charcuterie, the kitchen turns out favourite dishes the Asian side. HHH Daily B, L & D. Galata Tower Legendary Çırağan Brunch on Sundays from 12pm- from around the world. Pizzas from a wood oven, Meydanı, Şahkulu, Şah Kapısı Sok. 4, Beyoğlu. 4pm. Laledan Restaurant serves an all-day dining Asian specialities, grilled meats, and desserts such T: 0212 292 98 98. C5. menu, with delicious comfort food and regional HHHH as crème brûlée are just a few of the offerings. Globe, The specialties. www.kempinski.com. Daily L, D & N. www.colonie.com.tr. Kemankeş Cad. This smart hotel restaurant offers an innovative, Çırağan Palace Kempinski İstanbul, Çırağan Cad. 87/A, Karaköy, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 2103. D5. interactive dining experience. The restaurant 32, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 236 7333. B8. Compass Roof Restaurant&Bar serves four major world cuisines: western-style La Torre Located in the Titanic Hotel in Kartal, this spot Grill, Mediterranean, Asian and local specialities. Exclusive Located in Le Méridien İstanbul Etiler, offers many special flavours ranging from seafood Daily B, L & D. Hilton Istanbul Bomonti Hotel & featuring creative takes on Mediterranean and to select Far Eastern dishes. Savour the variety of Conference Center, Silahşör Cad. 42, Bomonti, Şişli. Turkish cuisine by award-winning chefs. Try the cocktails while enjoying live music in the elegant T: 0212 375 3000. Off map. stuffed köfte with cheek of beef, and the crab and charming modern ambiance. HHH Daily D. Huqqa tartare appetizer. HHH Daily L & D. Kaptan-ı Derya Cad. 37, Titanic Business Hotel, This world cuisine restaurant overlooking the www.latorre-restaurant.com.tr. Le Meridien Kartal. T: 0216 453 5050. Off map. Bosphorus is dominated by lively décor featuring İstanbul Etiler, Cengiz Topel Cad. 39, Etiler. pastels and geometric designs. The menu includes T: 0212 3840000. Off map. Cook Book both regional Turkish and Italian dishes; the Pizza Serving in the Sheraton Hotel, Cook Book has Masa Funghi Carnaval and Oreo Dream Cheesecake are a serene atmosphere with its high ceilings, Dishes include salmon sashimi, bresaola followed well worth a try. No alcohol. HHH www.huqqa.com. mezzanine floor, wood panelled walls and white by grilled meat, poultry and fish courses, as well as Muallim Naci Cad. 56, Kuruçeşme. tablecloths. The menu is international, with an pizza and pide from a wood oven. The chocolate T: 0212 265 0666. Off map. emphasis on Mediterranean cuisine. Must-try souffle is well worth the calories. Frequented by items on the menu include the İskender kebab, İst Too celebrities. HHH Daily L & D. mezes, fried mozzarella, cheesecake brownie and This spot between Dolmabahçe Palace and the www.masainternational.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. blueberry soufflé. Daily 6.30am-11pm. Naval Museum serves fine Japanese, Southeast İstinyePark Shopping Centre 486, Sarıyer. www.sheratonistanbulatakoy.com.tr. Sheraton Asian, Mediterranean and Turkish dishes, including T: 0212 345 5323. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). İstanbul Ataköy Hotel, Rauf Orbay Cad. Sahilyolu, a good selection of sushi and noodles. Midpoint 10, Bakırköy. T: 0212 413 0600. Off map. Mon-Sat L & D. HHHH www.shangri-la.com. Select varieties from international cuisines, warm Shangri-La Bopshorus, Hayrettin İskelesi Sok. 1, Delicatessen architecture and unparalleled presentation. Among Beşiktaş. T: 0212 275 8888. B7. Featuring dishes that combine Turkish tastes, the many choices, the vegetable fettucini and thin local ingredients and international delicacies, Izaka taco salad, Cajun basket, Bosphorus kebab and the extensive menu includes breakfast, starters, Serving on the terrace of the Park Bosphorus Carribean dessert are particularly worth a try. sandwiches, fresh ravioli, lasagne, meat and fish Hotel, Izaka Restaurants & Bar-Lounge actually HH Daily B, L & D. www.midpoint.com.tr. courses as well as an extensive wine list. HHH consist of four different restaurants: The Midd, Abdi İpekçi Cad. 59, Nişantaşı. Daily B, L & D. www.delicatessenistanbul.com. Mezze Mare and Hitode Sushi-Bar. Izaka ensures T: 0212 219 9401. A6. Nişantaşı, Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 19/1, Nişantaşı. an unforgettable experience, not only with its Nikol T: 0212 225 0604. A6. Pera, Asmalımescit Mah. delicious world cuisine but also with its stunning This concept shop and kitchen turns out Oteller Sok. 10-B, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 244 8455 - 56. C4. Bosphorus view and fine music. Daily L & D. Park chocolates, pastries, organic cookies, snacks, Bosphorus Hotel İstanbul, Gümüşsuyu Mah. İnönü Divan Brasserie Beyoğlu salads and more. Take a close look at the décor; Cad. 8, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 377 8888. B6. The brasserie is residing on top of a renovated everything in this modern vintage venue is for sale! han (large commerce building). With a terrace Kız Kulesi (Maidens Tower) HHH Daily B, L & D. www.nikolgalata.com. Serdar-ı overlooking the Bosphorus and the historic Located in the middle of the Bosphorus, with Ekrem Sok. 9, Galata. T: 0212 251 5158. D5.

50 WHERE İstanbul I MARCH 2015 DINING

Park Şamdan Darülaceze Cad. Okmeydanı, Şişli. Ulus 29 A classic venue in town, Park Şamdan offers T: 0212 314 4242. Off map. Flavours from around the world by international an extensive menu of delicious Turkish and chefs who prepare sushi and Mediterranean dishes Turkuaz Restaurant international delicacies. Wide variety of local and plus Turkish specialties such as kebab and pide. Restaurant offering delightful international foreign liquors and cocktails. HHH Mon-Sat L & D. Dazzling panoramic view of Bosphorus. Booking HHH www.parksamdan.com. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 14, flavours. Daily B, L & D. required. HHHH Mon-Fri L & D, Sat-Sun D. Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 0710. A6. www.dedeman.com. Dedeman İstanbul, www.club29.com. Adnan Saygun Cad. Yol Sok. 71/1, Yıldız Posta Cad. 50, Esentepe. Ulus. T: 0212 358 2929. Off map. Parlé T: 0212 337 4500. A7. This elegant and sophisticated restaurant serves W Lounge fine international cuisine in its own unique style. Tuti Located in the W Istanbul hotel, the newly Highlights of the menu include filet mignon with In the middle of the city, this stylish restaurant renovated W Lounge offers an elegant, welcoming Cafe De Paris sauce, roast duck and seafood salad boasts a menu with world flavours, plus a fine wine environment. The menu is mostly Mediterranean with goat cheese. HHHH Daily L & D. cellar with over 200 selections. HHH Daily B, L & D. and world cuisine, offering tapas and Turkish mezes Zorlu Center, Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, Koru Sok. www.themarmarahotels.com. The Marmara Taksim, plus risottos and fajitas and other popular dishes. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 353 6340. Off map. Taksim Meydanı. T: 0212 334 8300. B6. www.wistanbul.com.tr. Vişnezade Mah. Süleyman Picasso Restaurant Ottoman and Spanish cuisines are well represented on Picasso’s a la carte menu and in the buffet. HHH Daily L & D. www.barcelo.com. Millet Cad. 186, Barceló Eresin Topkapı. T: 0212 631 1212. Off map.

Robin’s Galata With one of the finest views of the Galata Tower, this restaurant welcomes you with its warm, serene decor. The decidedly French-influenced menu includes lobster, foie gras and entrecote among its most popular selections. Daily L & D. www.robins.com.tr. Galip Dede Cad. 56, Galata, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 245 9443. D5.

Rudolf Restaurant Located in 10 Karaköy hotel, the 62-capacity Rudolf Restaurant embraces the Slow Food movement. Its unique menu includes Mediterranean and world cuisine, with house specialities cherry wood smoked salmon, and five-spice duck breast with pineapple carpaccio. HHH Daily 7am-11pm. www.rudolfkarakoy.com.tr. Kemeraltı Cad. 10, Karaköy. T: 0212 703 3325. D5.

Sarnıç A restaurant dating to the Repuclican period housed in a cistern at the end of an old Ottoman street. Favourites include shrimp cocktail, crepe Bosphorus, paçanga börek, Karsky Oriental, and desserts like fried bananas and pineapple with ice cream. HH Daily D. www.sarnicrestaurant.com. Soğukçeşme Sok. 26, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 512 4291- 0212 513 3660. F4.

Sky Bar A la carte restaurant on the top floor of the Plaza Hotel with one of the finest panoramic views of the city, featuring international cuisine and fine service. HHH Tue-Sun D. www.theplazahotel.com.tr. Barbaros Bulvarı 165, The Plaza Hotel İstanbul, Balmumcu, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 370 2020. A8.

Starboard Restaurant Enjoy al fresco dining complemented by a spectacular setting along the Bosphorus. The restaurant draws local and foreign guests with its innovative Mediterranean menu highlighting fresh seafood dishes. HHHH Daily B, L & D. Çırağan Cad. 46, Radisson Blu Bosphorus Hotel, Ortaköy. T: 0212 310 1500. B8.

Sultan Restaurant Elegant, wood-dominated interior reminiscent of palaces surrounded by glass walls. The talented kitchen team produces select flavours from Turkish and world cuisines. HHHH Daily L & D. www.grandcevahirhotel.com. Grand Cevahir Hotel,

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Eataly With 24 branches including New York, Chicago and RANCHERO several Italian cities, this new venue of the market- Reasürans Çarşısı 53, Nişantaşı. restaurant chain offers top-quality Italian cheeses, T: 0212 219 8550. pastas, sauces and more. Featuring fine food and quality shopping, Eataly scores high points with its pizzas and desserts HHH Daily 10am-11pm. Zorlu Center, Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, Koru Sok. Beşiktaş. www.eataly.com.tr. T: 0212 336 6600. Off map.

Emporio Armani Ristorante This casual dining spot features a cafe and bar on its lower floor. The furniture, dominated by ivory and black, is accompanied by Armani sparkle on the wall. The menu features outstanding traditional Italian and Mediterranian flavours including scallops with cream sauce, capesante and classic Italian panna cotta. HHH Daily L & D. İstinye Park 519, İstinye, Sarıyer. T: 0212 345 6140. Shopping Centre Map (p.34).

Fratelli La Bufala Known for its buffalo mozzarella, this restaurant is also famed for its Neapolitan-style pizzas. Taste the superb cheese on the pizzas themselves, and you can even order it in single 125- or 500-gram portions. Delicious! HHH Daily L & D. www.fratellilabufalaistanbul.com. Kar Kuyusu Sok. Seba Cad. 22, W Hotel, Akaretler, Beşiktaş. Aqua Trump Towers Mall, Zemin K:13 Şişli. T: 0212 381 2121. B7. One of the most talk-about restaurants in İstanbul T: 0212 347 99 00. Off map. with its master chefs, unparalleled service and Veranda Grill & Bar Jamie’s Italian excellent location. Modern interior. Mainly Enjoy a wonderful combination of alfresco dining With a creative menu featuring authentic gourmet Mediterranean and Italian dis hes, minestrone with a Bosphorus view, and select Turkish and dishes made with the freshest ingredients, Jamie’s soup, line caught sea bass filet, mixed sea-food international dishes including delicious kebabs and menu includes delicious köfte, chicken with plate. HHHH Daily B, L & D. 6am-11pm. fresh charcoal-grilled fish and burgers. Or head to couscous, and treats from around the world, in www.fourseasons.com. Four Seasons Bosphorus, the bar for a wonderful cocktail with a breathtaking a warm, welcoming environment. HHH Daily L & Çırağan Cad. 28, Beşiktaş. İstanbul sunset. HHH www.hilton.com.tr. D. www.jamieoliver.com. Zorlu Center, Barbaros T: 0212 381 4059. A9. Daily D. Hilton İstanbul, Cumhuriyet Cad. Harbiye. Bulvarı Kavşağı, Koru Sok. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 353 6808. Off map. T: 0212 343 8081. B6. Carluccio’s The İstanbul branch of this restaurant, named after Mezzaluna View Point Restaurant famous chef Antonio Carluccio himself, serves Mezzaluna serves cold appetizers and carpaccios, The first Art Tech hotel in Turkey, Point Hotel authentic Italian flavours in a relaxed, authentic thin crust pizzas baked in a wood oven, and fresh Barbaros Roof restaurant with its excellent atmosphere. Check out their gourmet market. hand-made pastas all in a colourful, cheerful Bosphorus view offers an open buffet featuring the HHH Daily B, L & D. Kanyon Shopping Centre, atmosphere. HHH Daily L & D. exquisite flavours of Turkish cuisine. Büyükdere Cad. 185, Levent. T: 0212 353 0545. www.mezzaluna.com.tr. Mim Kemal Öke Cad. 21, HHH Daily B, L & D. www.pointhotel.com. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). Nişantaşı. T: 0212 231 3142. A6. Point Hotel Barbaros, Esentepe Yıldız Posta Cad. 29, Şişli. T: 0212 337 3000. A7. Cento Per Cento Morini With a concept based on everyday Italian food, From the décor to the quality service, Morini is Vogue starters are served in snack-sized portions so it’s pure New York. The home-made pastas reign Vogue Restaurant & Bar, located on the top floor easy to sample a wide range of dishes. Chef’s supreme here; the favourite of celebrities such as of BJK Plaza, welcomes guests once more with its homemade ravioli, fresh pastas and classical Catherine Zeta Jones, Brad Pitt and Heidi Klum, its refurbished décor and delicious food. Serving high Neapolitan pizza by-the-meter are some of the dishes are created by Michelin-star chef Michael quality Mediterranean cuisine plus a lengthy sushi highlights. HHH Mon-Sat L & D. White. HHHH Daily B, L & D. Daily B & L & D. menu, it offers a host of dishes from Chilean sea www.centopercento.com.tr. Abdi İpekçi Cad. Zorlu Center, Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, Koru Sok. bass to lamb shanks. HHHH Daily L&D. Zati Apt. 36, Nişantaşı.T: 0212 232 6202. A6. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 353 6767. Off map. www.voguerestaurant.com. Akaretler Spor Cad. 92, BJK Plaza A Blok K:13, Da Mario Papermoon Beşiktaş. T: 0212 227 4404. B7. With a typical southern Italian atmosphere This elegant venue serves unique Italian delicacies. and delicious Mediterranean dishes including Its spacious bar and café are open all day, and homemade fresh pastas and pizzas from the wood loved by İstanbul high society. Reservations ITALIAN oven. Extensive wine list. HHHH Daily L & D. recommended. HHHH Daily L & D. www.istanbuldoors.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. www.papermoon.com.tr. Nispetiye Cad. Akmerkez Antica Locanda Dilhayat Sok. 7, Etiler. T: 0212 265 5186. Off map. Shopping Centre 224, Etiler. T: 0212 282 1616. The former bakery of the Taxiarchis Greek Shopping Centre Map (p.34). Orthodox Church – İstanbul’s largest Ottoman- Del Mare era Greek church – is now a restaurant serving Excellent location on the Bosphorus with a Ristorante Italia traditional Italian food. Favourite menu items delightful view, especially inviting at sunset. With a simple, grey-dominated decor and art-lined include the Sardinian-style potatoes with mint and Try specialities including mussel ravioli, paella, and walls, the menu here features traditional Italian stuffed homemade fagottini. HHH Wed-Sat L & D; fish on mashed eggplant. Also accessible by boat dishes created by Chef Massimo Bottura. Tue-Sun Tue-Sat D; Sun L. www.anticalocanda.com.tr. from Kuruçeşme on the European side. HHHH L & D. www.osteriafrancescana.it. Zorlu Center, Satış Meydanı 12, Arnavutköy. T: 0212 287 9745. Daily L & D. www.del-mare.com. Kuleli Cad. 45/1, Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, Koru Sok. Beşiktaş. Off map. Çengelköy. T: 0216 422 5762. Off map. T: 0212 336 6600. Off map.

52 WHERE İstanbul I MARCH 2015 DINING

www.halatrestaurant.com. Rahmi Koç Museum, Müzedechanga lebanese Kumbarhane Cad. 2, Hasköy, Sütlüce. The restaurant takes in breathtaking Bosphorus Al Bushra T: 0212 369 6616. B2. views and centuries-old pine trees, with an Nestled on the 9th flor of Hilton İstanbul, Al Bushra excellent menu to match. Be sure to try the fresh Lacivert promises a delightful and unforgettable dining blackeyed peas with hazelnut tarator, filet mignon Exquisite Mediterranean flavours combined with experience featuring authentic Lebanese dishes with green bulgur pilaf, tortellini with spinach and by expert chefs, select wines and a brathtaking a most romantic Bosphorus view. The restaurant lor cheese, mosaic pastry and chestnut tiramisu. Bosphorus view. HHH Daily L & D. delights its guests with seasonally changing menus HHH Tue-Sat L & D, Sat-Sun B. www.hilton.com.tr. Hilton İstanbul, Cumhuriyet and excellent seafood. Anything that comes out www.changa-istanbul.com. Sakıp Sabancı Cad. 42, Cad. K:9, Harbiye. T: 0212 343 8081. B6. of the sea, from calamari to octopus, mussels and Atlıköşk, Emirgan. T: 0212 323 0901. Off map. shrimp as well a vast selection of fish. Brunch on Sundays. HHHH Daily L & D. Orange Restaurant MEDITERRANEAN www.lacivertrestaurant.com. This venue offers the flavours of Moroccan, Körfez Cad. 57/A, Anadolu Hisarı, Beykoz. Algerian, Lebanese and Turkish cuisine. 34 Restaurant A wide variety of grills, daily set menus and T: 0216 413 4224. Off map. Personalised service with live kitchen shows southern Mediterranean specialties promise form just part of the exclusive atmosphere at 34 La Mancha a delightful experience. HHH Daily B, L & D. Restaurant. Its ‘Food under the Sun’ concept, Serving a mix of Italian, Moroccan and Spanish www.orangemedgrill.com. Kayışdağ Cad. 1 /1, based on Mediterranean and Turkish cuisine, cuisine, La Mancha offers a delicious variety İstanbul Marriot Hotel Asia, Ataşehir. ensures a unique dining experience. Daily L & D, of hot and cold tapas dishes, fresh seafood T: 0216 570 0038. Off map. Taşkışla Cad. 1, Taksim, Beyoğlu. and Costalatele alla Toscana, along with 150 T: 0212 368 1234. C4. Sunset Grill&Bar wine selections and cocktails. Daily L & D. This well-known İstanbul venue offers a A’jia Restaurant www.lamancha.com.tr. Muallim Naci Cad. 107, magnificient Bosphorus view accompanied by an With its unique fusion of contemporary Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 257 1144. Off map. exclusive wine list and Mediterranean cuisine. interior design and 18th-century architecture Bar opens in the evenings, offering an entertaining Mia Mensa in a spectacular Bosphorus-front location, this HHHH This restaurant, serving Mediterranean and Italian night with a DJ. Booking required. Mon-Sat restaurant has a reputation for quality service. L & D. www.sunsetgrillbar.com. Adnan Saygun Cad. HHHH cuisine plus international dishes, is enhanced by Daily B, L & D. www.ajiahotel.com. Yol Sok. 2, Ulus. T: 0212 287 0357-58. Off map. Çubuklu Cad. 27, A’jia Hotel, Ahmet Rasim Paşa its enchanting Bosphorus view. Try the flounder Yalısı, Kanlıca. T: 0216 413 9300. Off map. with lemon sauce, the four-cheese pizza and the Topaz tiramisu. HHH www.miamensa.com. Chic restaurant offering traditional and modern Bloom Muallim Naci Cad. 64/C, Kuruçeşme. Turkish/Mediterranean cuisine. The traditional This high-ceilinged spacious venue has another T: 0212 263 4214. Off map. Turkish menu includes yuvarlama soup and chard surprise – a wide green terrace filled with grapefruit, olive, pomegranate and orange trees. The stars of the menu include dishes cooked in their stone oven; try beef tas kebabı, and köfte with kashar cheese, to name just a few. HH Daily B, L & D. Ambarlı Dere Cad. 6, Ortaköy. T: 0212 288 6582. Off map.

Flamingo Mediterranean cuisine with a focus on Italian takes centre stage at this high-end restaurant, which converts into a nightclub after dinner. Items include pizzas, pastas and risottos, plus desserts including chocolate mousse, chocolate tart and tiramisu. The Prosecco cocktail comes highly recommended. HHHH Mon-Sat L, D & N. www.flamingoist.com. Asker Ocağı Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 232 6868. B6.

Frankie Boasting three different sections, choose from the terrace, city lounge and main restaurant. Among the most impressive offerings are their artichoke mücver in cheese fondue, and talaş börek on a bed of beef. Or stop by in the evening and enjoy live music along with their signature passion fruit cocktail. HHH Daily L, D & N. Sofa Hotel, Teşvikiye Cad. 41, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 230 6666. A6.

Galliard, The Serving predominantly Spanish, French and Italian cuisine, specialities at this contemporary elegant restaurant include homemade pastas, plus their special bread with walnuts, raisins and wine. Tue-Sat L, D & N. Sun & Mon L & D. No Ordinary Venue www.thegalliard.com. Nispetiye Cad. 104, Etiler. The elegant A’jia Restaurant, located inside a traditional Ottoman mansion perched on T: 444 0 233. Off map. the waterfront, combines a breathtaking Bosphorus view with the historic fabric of İstanbul. Halat Restaurant Delicious Mediterranean dishes pair with a rich selection from its wine cellar, plus it’s a very Located inside the Rahmi M. Koç Museum, this popular destination for Sunday brunch. restaurant boasts an eye-catching interior where sailboats are used for décor. The menu is based on Çubuklu Mah. Çubuklu Cad. 27, Kanlıca Mediterranean cuisine with an extensive local and T: 0216 413 9300. www.ajiahotel.com foreign wine list. HHH Daily L & D.

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stuffed with meat and bulgur; the modern menu spirit of the street. Karkuyusu Sok. Şişli. features roasted cheek of beef, celeriac puree, NOI T: 0212 3487867. Off map. crème brulée with foie gras and sweet marsala Otlukbeli Cad. HHH sauce. Daily L & D. www.topazistanbul.com. Bebekköy Sok. 4, İnönü Cad. Devres Han 50, Gümüşsuyu. steakhouse Etiler. T: 0212 249 1001. B6. T: 0212 287 1506. Dallas Steakhouse This restaurant on the Yeşilköy coast serves a great variety of specially marinated steaks, in a warm, MEXICAN comfortable atmosphere. Menu favourites include Ranchero tomato, mozzarella and arugula salad, smoked veal, Presenting fine Mexican cuisine with authentic and the lokum burger . Daily L&D. tableware and kitchen equipment shipped from www.dallassteakhouse.com.tr. Yeşilköy Mah. Mexico, its extensive menu includes real tortillas Mürvetli Sok. 6/A, (Shah-İnn Hotel Girişi), Yeşilköy. and tortilla chips made fresh daily. HH Daily T: 0212 663 6345. Off map. L&D. www.ranchero.com.tr. Reasürans Çarşısı 53, Maçka Günaydın Et Restaurant Nişantaşı. T: 0212 219 8550. A6. With a wood-dominated, historic feel, this spot serves a variety of kebabs and meats. Try the MODERN OCAKBAŞI smoked meat platter, succulent steaks and the hand-churned ayran HHH Daily L & D. Ali www.gunaydinet.com. Swissôtel the Bosphorus, Matbah With a view of the historic peninsula, high ceilings Bayıldım Cad. 2, Maçka. T: 0212 258 1203. B7. Offering authentic specialities from Ottoman and a modern design, Ali’s menu is devoted mainly Palace cuisine in an historical setting, Matbah in to kebabs and meats. Specialities include their N Burger the Historical Peninsula is surrounded by iconic signature Ali Kebap and the traditional pumpkin This cosy restaurant’s menu includes the Nusret buildings like Topkapı Palace and Hagia Sophia. dessert served with tahini and ice cream. HHH Burger, Lokum Burger and Sucuklu Burger, along HHH Daily B, L&D. www.matbahrestaurant.com. Daily L & D. Arap Camii Mah. Tersane Cad. 45/ 4, with a selection of köfte and meats. The tulum Caferiye Sok. 6/1, Sultanahmet. Grifin Han, Karaköy. T: 0212 293 1011. C5. cheese salad and baklava are some of its most T: 0212 514 6151. F4. popular dishes. Daily L & D. www.d-ream.com.tr. Peymane Abdi Ipekçi Cad. 57/A, Reasürans Çarşısı, Nişantaşı. Tuğra Restaurant Located in a five-storey registered historical T: 0212 231 2470 - 71. A6. A favourite of gourmets, this venue serves classical building, the restaurant also contains a charcuterie Ottoman dishes accompanied by live Turkish with fine cheeses and cold meats. Above the Nusr-Et classical music in an authentic atmosphere on the In keeping with Nusret’s decor, meats are brought entrance is a VIP salon, with an indoor dining room waterfront. HHHH Daily D. on teak planks and served on white porcelain. The on the top floor. The kebab grill lends an elegant www.kempinski-istanbul.com. Çırağan Cad. 32, restaurant focuses on meat, salads and wine; meats decorative touch. HHH Daily L & D. Çırağan Palace Kempinski İstanbul, Beşiktaş. are cooked to order. HHH Daily L & D. Nispetiye www.peymane-lacucina.com. Tophane, Tomtom, T: 0212 258 3377. B8. Cad. 87, Etiler. T: 0212 358 3022. Off map. Boğazkesen Cad. 65/1, Tophane. T: 0212 244 0955. Beyoğlu, Meşrutiyet Cad. Evliya Çelebi Mah. 94/A, The Market @ Bosphorus Beyoğlu. T: 0212 251 5314. C5. PUB Minimalist design meets classic Turkish and world cuisine, with classic meats, steaks and burgers, plus Divan Pub Elmadağ foie gras and a selection of seafood. Daily B, new anatolıan The extensive and tempting menu includes a range L & D. HHH Kuruçeşme Mah. Muallim Naci Cad. 56, of local specialties, including döner kebab. Mikla Kuruçeşme. T: 0212 257 4111. A9. Daily B & L & D. www.divan.com.tr. Mikla opened in October 2005. The initial idea was Divan İstanbul, Asker Ocağı Cad. 1, Taksim. Steak N More Istan’bull to create a refined but contemporary “İstanbullu” T: 0212 315 5500. B6. Synonymous with its chef Fikret Özdemir (p. 4), this Restaurant. Both the menu and the general feel restaurant concentrates mostly on meat and fish. of the Restaurant reflect the Turkish-Scandinavian Ph Pub All dishes are made from 100% Turkish meat, plus background of Mehmet Gürs. HHHH Mon-Sat D. A wide variety of appetizer buffets, grills and its local cheese and wines. Try the piri piri shrimp, www.istanbulyi.com. The Marmara Pera, Meşrutiyet desserts are served from 11:30am to 8:30pm in PH lamb shanks, and künefe for dessert. HHH Daily L Cad. 94, K:7, Taksim. T: 0212 293 5656. C4. pub on the lobby floor. HHH Mon-Sat L & D. & D. www.radissonblu.com. Radisson Blu Hotel, www.theplazahotel.com.tr. Barbaros Bulvarı 165, İstanbul Şişli, 19 Mayıs Cad. 12, Şişli. The Plaza Hotel İstanbul, Balmumcu, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 375 0000. Off map. ottoman T: 0212 370 2020. A8. Asitane Restaurant thaı Specializing in Ottoman Court cuisine, this is an sPECIAL SPOTS exciting venue with a menu based on the 1539 ÇokÇok Thai Restaurant & Bar ‘Book of Feasts’. The menu offers specialties like Mahalle Rich authentic Thai menu in a sophisticated chestnut soup, shrimp-stuffed calamari, hassa Located on the top floor of City’s Nişantaşı setting. Created by an award-winning female Thai börek, kırma chicken kebab, sea bass biryan and shopping centre, Mahalle offers a variety of chef, designed by renowned Singaporean architect saffron-scented zerde for dessert. HHH Daily L & D. services under one roof from a butcher to a flower Kay Ngee Tan, and managed by a London-trained www.asitanerestaurant.com. Kariye Camii Sok. 6, shop, greengrocer, bookstore and coffee shop. management team. HHH Daily L & D. Edirnekapı. T: 0212 635 7997. C2. There’s something for every need and occasion. www.cokcok.com.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 51, Tepebaşı. Daily 10am-10pm. www.citysnisantasi.com. T: 0212 292 6496. C4. Deraliye Restaurant Teşvikiye Cad. 162, Nişantaşı. This restaurant serves the finest that Ottoman T: 0212 373 3333. A6. Pera Thai cuisine has to offer, very close to the Basilica Outstanding presentation of Thai cuisine, which Cistern and Topkapı Palace. Try the stuffed Trump Cadde has risen to prominence in recent years. Jazz and vine leaves with sour cherries, lamb neck with Located on the terrace floor of Trump Towers ethnic music tunes provide a smooth ambiance for prunes, and almond halva dusted with powdered Shopping Centre, this is home to event spaces plus dinners. Original flavours and exotic atmosphere sugar. Daily L & D. www.deraliyerestaurant.com. brands including Limonata, Bali Bey, Nezih Kebap, from Thailand brought to guests in a simple interior Divanyolu Cad. Alemdar Mah. Ticarethane Sok. 10, Rumi Tantuni, Fiorucci, PapaBubble and Plus Kitchen. decorated with authentic objects. Sultanahmet. T: 0212 520 7778. F4. It’s an ‘avenue with a view’ which creates the carefree Mon-Sat L & D. HHH www.perathai.com.

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Meşrutiyet Cad. 74/A,Beyoğlu. specialities featuring local products, inc Braised Süleymaniye Mosque, the Blue Mosque and other T: 0212 245 5726. C4. Artichoke, Hengel Ravioli, cold cress-nettle soup historic landmarks from its terrace. The Turkish and puff pastry with lamb ragout. HHHH Daily B, cuisine is complemented by a warm and nostalgic L & D, Sunday brunch. www.fourseasons.com. interior filled with original paintings, imperial TURKISH Tevfikhane Sok. 1, Four Seasons Sultanahmet edicts, quilted turbans, calligraphy and ornate tiles, Bir Tat Et Lokantası Hotel, Sultanahmet. T: 0212 402 3000. E5. all originals.www.zeyrekhane.com. HHH Tue-Sun B, L & D. Zeyrek Mah. İbadethane Arkası This warm and inviting spot serves all types of Sofyalı 9 Turkish cuisine. Its menu is especially famous for its Turkish and Greek tunes provide the background to Sok. 10, Zeyrek, Fatih. T: 0212 532 2778. D3. offal including tripe soup, liver and sweetbreads. warm conversation, while at least 25 mezes tempt Daily L & D. Kalfa Çeşme Sok. 16, Koşuyolu. the taste buds - from classics like chard stuffed TURKISH (MODERN) T: 0216 553 6664. Off map. with mince meat, çoban kavurma, fincan pastry and ‘Albanian style’ diced fried liver, to seafood Casita Boğaziçi Borsa Very popular for its mantı, a Turkish dumpling delicacies like mussels in red wine sauce, grilled A classic in İstanbul dining, this restaurant’s served with yoghurt, and tripe soup, Casita also shrimp and octopus. Daily L, D & N. updated menus capture the flavours of Turkish offers temptations like Bodrum’s famous çökertme www.sofyali.com.tr. Asmalımescit Cad. Sofyalı Sok. cuisine with a Western twist. The result is stunning. kebab, garlic mushroom casserole and “paper 9, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 3810. C4. Paintings by famous artists exhibited in the entrance welcome guests into this elegant venue. doll” dessert. This restaurant is open 24 hours Yeni Lokanta HHH daily. HH Daily L&D. www.casita.com.tr. Atiye Sok. Rustical, and decorated simply with tiles, trees Daily L & D. www.borsa.com. 3, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 327 8293. A6. and flowers, Yeni Lokanta serves traditional dishes Lütfi Kırdar Convention & Exhibition Centre, Harbiye. T: 0212 232 4201. A6. Günaydın made with ingredients from Anatolia. The bulgur salad with sour cherries, mantı filled with dried This simply-decorated two-storey restaurant, with Borsa eggplant and rice pudding with hazelnuts are some a spacious garden, serves delicious kebabs and A classic in İstanbul dining, this restaurant’s of the must-try offerings. HH Mon-Sat L & D. other grilled meats. The mainstays of the menu updated menus capture the flavours of Turkish www.lokantayeni.com. Kumbaracı Yokuşu 66, are the fındık lahmacun (an appetizer-sized version cuisine with a Western twist. The result is stunning. Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 2550. C5. of the familiar ‘Turkish pizza’), stuffed köfte and Paintings by famous artists exhibited in the chopped kebabs, including their special pistachio Zeyrekhane entrance welcome guests into this elegant venue. kebab. HHH Daily L&D. Near the Zeyrek mosque, originally part of a HHH Daily L&D. www.borsa.com. İstinye Bayırı Cad. Kazım Özalp Cad. 58, Şaşkınbakkal. monastary, and entered through old wooden İstinyePark Shopping Centre, Sarıyer. T: 0216 417 9209. Off map. houses, this restaurant offers a breathtaking view of T: 0212 345 5333. Shopping Centre Map (p.34). Karaköy Lokantası Located across from the customs house, this restaurant looks like a French bistro from the outside, but the Ottoman style interior with its turquoise tiles and wrought iron railings gives the feel of a warm, welcoming tavern. Specialities include mezes like mashed broad beans and smoked octopus, plus skewered lamb and fish pastrami. HHH Daily L & D. Kemankeş Cad. 37/A, Karaköy. T: 0212 292 4455. D5.

Ma’na A nostalgic venue with a meyhane atmosphere, serving Turkish delicacies with Turkish semi- classical music in the background. The impressive rakı menu offers 33 different varieties. As in any meyhane, the mezes reign supreme; they also serve a very good kadayıf pastry for dessert. HHH Mon-Sat L&D. Kemankeş Mah. Fransız Geçidi 53/8, Karaköy. T: 0212 293 0993. D5.

Raika The immensely varied cuisine of Anatolia is served in an innovative presentation, with strong emphasis of seasonal ingredients. Located on the terrace floor of The Marmara Taksim, and boasting a panoramic view of the city, the bar with its magnificent view is the perfect spot for early evening get-togethers. HHHH Daily L, D & N. The Marmara Taksim Hotel, 20/F, Taksim. T: 0212 2433773. C5.

Refik Restaurant One of the best taverns in town for 65 years, this spot is an İstanbul classic with its congenial atmosphere. Pastırma in paper, ‘Albanian style’ Irresistible Turkish Delights fried diced liver, and lamb roulade are just a few of Boasting a panoramic city view, Raika presents a creative take on traditional Turkish cuisine. its delightful specialities. HHH Mon-Sat D. Appetizers include goat cheese and grilled pepper salad, and cacık with almonds, with www.refikrestaurant.com. Asmalımescit Cad. popular main dishes including sea bass with bean puree and fresh sorrel. Sofyalı Sok. 6, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 2834. C4. The Marmara Taksim, K:20, Taksim Seasons T: 0212 243 3773 www.raika.com.tr Spacious antique-themed interior surrounded by glass. Seasons Restaurant serves Turkish

MARCH 2015 I İstanbUl WHERE 55 DINING

Core Grill & Bar (salt-cured bonito) and the chef’s special desserts. try the lamb’s trotter soup, hünkar beğendi and Radisson Blu Hotel, İstanbul Asia’s restaurant Daily B, L & D. HHH www.raffles-tr.com Raffles semolina halvah. HH Daily L & D. Mim Kemal Öke is bright, relaxed and friendly. Ingredients from İstanbul, Zorlu Center, Barbaros Bulvarı Kavşağı, Cad. 21, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 225 4665. A6. various cuisines blend harmoniously with Turkish Koru Sok. Beşiktaş. T: 0212 924 0200. Off map. Kanaat Lokantası dishes, with the chef’s specialties including chicken Surplus Kanaat offers a stunning menu of 100-120 dishes schnitzel with kadayıf pastry and their Core kebab. With views of both the historic peninsula and Pera, prepared daily including meat dishes, olive oil HH Daily L & D. www.radissonblu.com. this restaurant serves fine Turkish cuisine. Must-try dishes, desserts, ice creams and yoghurt. Radisson Blu Hotel, İstanbul Asia, Yakut Cad. dishes include the roast lamb, satır köftesi and lamb No alcohol. HH Daily L & D. Daily 6:30pm-11:30pm. Ataşehir. T: 0216 579 1100. Off map. taraklık. HHH www.surplus.com.tr. Ragıp Gümüş Cad. www.kanaatlokantasi.com.tr. Selmanipak Cad. 9, Dai Pera 54, K: 3-4, Eminönü. T: 0212 520 1002. E5. Üsküdar. T: 0216 341 5444. D8. Blending İstanbul’s vast history of Balkan, Kandilli Borsa Rumelian, Albanian, Jewish and Armenian Excellent ambiance in the garden of the historical elements with a modern vision, the venue offers TURKISH (tradıtıonal) Adile Sultan Palace on a hilltop overlooking a traditional İstanbul flavours including white bean Darüzziyafe dazzling Bosphorus view. Top Ottoman palace stew with meat, Albanian-style liver, baked mantı Superb Turkish cuisine, with a lengthy menu dishes and traditional Turkish cuisine, the menu and quince dessert. HH Mon-Thu 9am-2am. reflecting centuries of Turkish dining traditions. also includes surprising blends of Mediterranean, Fri&Sat 9am-4am. Sun 10am-2am. Yeni Çarşı Cad. Located in the Süleymaniye complex and and Far Eastern cuisines. HHH Daily L & D. 54, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 8099. C5. seating over 1000, Darüzziyafe is an ideal place www.borsarestaurant.com. Adile Sultan Sarayı, to experience select Turkish dishes along with Divan Lokanta Vaniköy Cad. 12, Vaniköy, Üsküdar. delicious sherbets and desserts. HH Daily L & Divan Lokanta creates an innovative menu by T: 0216 460 0304. Off map. D. www.daruzziyafe.com.tr. Şifahane Cad. 4, combining the best of Turkish and Mediterranean Süleymaniye. T: 0212 511 8414. E3. dining, plus Divan’s signature dishes. The Kaşıbeyaz Bosphorus Don’t be misled by its thoroughly modern 21st- copper-leaf bar and ceiling-hung glass sculptures Develi century decor; this restaurant serves traditional shimmering golden red set the tone in an inviting Located on legendary Kalamış Bay, Develi offers Turkish cuisine. Dominated by meat and kebabs, and elegant atmosphere, with countless vintage a delightful atmosphere and stylish decor. Fine the menu also features home-style dishes and a wines in illuminated racks. HHH Daily L & D. Gaziantep and Turkish specialties include Ali Nazik variety of sautéed and fried dishes. Daily L & D. www.divan.com.tr. Divan İstanbul, Asker Ocağı kebab, küşneme, maş piyazı, muhammara, and www.kasibeyaz.com.tr Köybaşı Cad. 10, Yeniköy. Cad. 1, Taksim. T: 0212 315 5500. B6. Antep style stuffed dried eggplants. HHH T: 0212 299 5000. Off map. Daily L & D. www.develikebap.com. FerahFeza Münir Nurettin Selçuk Cad. Kalamış Marina, With décor alluding to the local artisan tradition, Köşebaşı Kadıköy. T: 0216 418 9400. Off map. this new venue boasts two breezy terraces This internationally-recognized chain restaurant offers meat dishes from Adana and Tarsus region overlooking Galata Tower and the Historic Feriye Lokantası based on traditional recipes. The gavurdağı Toros, Peninsula. Favourites on the menu include salmon Historical building that housed a police station a Abaganos fındık lahmacun, şaşlık kebab and in vine leaves with tahini sauce, and bean casserole century ago. Menu offers Turkish and Ottoman semolina halvah are especially good. Playground with grilled octopus. HHH Daily B, L, D & N. cuisines, with excellent Bosphorus views and stylish HH www.ferahfeza-ist.com. Kemankeş Cad. 31/5, ambiance. Specialities include sauteed lamb available for the kids. Daily L & D. Karaköy. T: 0212 243 5154-55. D5. fillet and pumpkin dessert. Heated terrace in www.kosebasi.com. Bronz Sok. 5, Maçka, T: 0212 230 3868. A6. Gile Restaurant winter. HHHH Daily L & D. www.feriye.com. Çırağan Cad. 40, Ortaköy. T: 0212 227 2216. Young chefs Cihan Kıpçak and Üryan Doğmuş add Mabeyin Off map. a contemporary edge to familiar flavours, creating Located in the historical Mabeyinci Manor. Enjoy new flavours such as filet mignon with fenugreek, Hacı Abdullah Lokantası traditional Turkish cuisine in an exquisite setting. 24-hour lamb shank, and Saroz shrimp grilled over A long-established restaurant with a 121-year Ideal choice for those who want to combine history red pine. HHH Daily L & D. history, ensuring continuity of Ottoman culinary with the distinct flavours of southeastern Turkish www.gilerestaurant.com. Şair Nedim Cad. tradition, serves specialities including lamb-based cuisine in a quiet, peaceful atmosphere. HHH Akaretler, Sıra Evler B Blok. 14, Akaretler. meat dishes as well as soups and pilafs. Daily L & D. www.mabeyin.com. Eski Kısıklı Cad. 7, T: 0212 327 1166. A7/B7. HH Daily L & D. www.haciabdullah.com.tr. Kısıklı. T: 0216 422 5580. Off map. Atıf Yılmaz Cad. 9/A, Taksim. T: 0212 293 8561. C5. Münferit Nar Lokanta This chic, modern tavern-style restaurant is right at Hamdi Et Lokantası With its menu of traditional Turkish and Ottoman the entrance of the Galata Residence. The menu A classic İstanbul dining experience, this specialities, Nar Lokanta celebrates the Ottoman offers a combination of traditional and modern restaurant’s glass-covered terrace offers a culinary tradition. Outstanding dishes include flavours, including marinated sea bass, hot grilled panoramic view of the city. With more than 40 stuffed köfte, palace-style mantı, and şekerpare shrimp on humus, black couscous with mussels, kebabs on the menu; plum kebab and poppy seed with figs and poppyseeds. HHH Mon-Sat L & D. poached sea bass with clams, and shredded cheek kebab are highly recommended. HHH Daily L&D. www.narlokantasi.com. Nuruosmaniye Cad. 41, K:5, of beef with orzo. HHH Mon-Sat D. Yeni Çarşı Cad. www.hamdirestorant.com.tr. Tahmis Cad. Çemberlitaş. T: 0212 522 2800. E4. 19, Taksim. T: 0212 252 5067. C5. Kalçın Sok. 11, Eminönü. T: 0212 512 5424. D4. Pandeli PeyDerPey Havuzlu Lokanta An İstanbul classic located in the Egyptian Market, Boasting a fine view of the city from the terrace of Experience five centuries of history in this its walls are covered with glamorous İznik tiles. the Hotel Richmond, PeyderPey serves Ottoman restaurant nestled in the Grand Bazaar, featuring With its Turkish delicacies, Pandeli is an ideal stop and Turkish cuisine with a modern presentation. exquisite Ottoman architecture. Specialties among during a visit to the old city and the markets. Must-try items include tempting mezes, grilled its home-style dishes include mashed eggplant, HH Daily L. www.pandeli.com.tr. Mısır Çarşısı 1, rack of lamb and incir uyutması, a special pudding roasted lamb and Abant-style kebab. Eminönü. T: 0212 527 3909. E5. thickened by figs. Daily L & D. www.peyderpey. HH Mon-Sat L. www.havuzlurestaurant.com. Safran com Hotel Richmond İstanbul, İstiklal Cad. 227, K:6, Gani Çelebi Sok. 3, Kapalıçarşı, Eminönü. Multi-award winning venue with a magnificent Beyoğlu. T: 0212 243 0999. C5. T: 0212 527 3346. E4. Bosphorus view matched by a Turkish and Rocca Hünkar Nişantaşı Ottoman-themed menu and interior. Live classical Offering classic Turkish and Mediterranean Cosy, spacious, serving traditional Turkish dishes Turkish music every Wed and Fri. HHH Daily D. specialities with a modern presentation in three and desserts. Popular choices include wrapped istanbul.intercontinental.com.tr. Intercontinental menus: From the Sea, From the Land and From the liver, tandoori lamb stew and lamb casserole with İstanbul, Asker Ocağı Cad. 1, Taksim. Marketplace. Dishes include lamb tartar, lakerda yoghurt; for a truly Turkish dining experience T: 0212 368 4444. B6.

56 WHERE İstanbul I MARCH 2015 DINING ESSENTIALS USEFUL INFORMATION Emergency, Medical Emergency Ambulance Public. Open 24 hours. T: 112. Medline Private ambulance service. Open 24 hours. T: 0212 331 2000 - 444 1212. American Hospital Vehbi Koç Foundation American Hospital is a foundation-owned, acute general care hospital. Each year the Hospital serves 150.000 patients, providing a comprehensive array of primary care and specialty services. The medical staff includes over 500 active and visiting physicians. The Hospital is accredited by the Joint Commission International. www.amerikanhastanesi.org. Güzelbahçe Sok. 20, Nişantaşı. T: 0212 444 3777. Medamerican Outpatient Clinic MedAmerican Outpatient Clinic, located on the Asian side of İstanbul, is an outpatient clinic of the American Hospital. The clinic offers a wide array of medical, surgical, and ancillary health care services. www.medamerikan.com. Cemil Topuzlu Cad. 46 Çiftehavuzlar. T: 0216 468 2555.

Emergency, Dental Dentistanbul First and only dedicated dental hospital in Turkey. Specialised and experienced staff, fully equipped operating room, ambulance and bed services. www.dentistanbul.com.tr. Yıldız Cad. 71, Beşiktaş. Ask The Concierge T: 0212 444 0347. Pharmacies Pharmacies are open during day until 7.30pm. This month we speak with Özgür Sezek, concierge Every day, a different pharmacy remains open for 24 hours as a night pharmacy in every at the Radisson Blu Bosphorus Hotel. neighbourhood. The names of the night pharmacies are displayed on the window of every pharmacy. Pharmacists can check blood pressure, dress minor wounds and provide ow would you describe İstanbul? and İstanbul Kebap. Our other restaurant, recommendations on medical assistance. İstanbul is like a fairy-tale city: you Zuma, is a famous Japanese restaurant. Our www.treczane.com. have to feel and experience it to restaurants also feature DJ performances at H Useful Numbers enjoy it; you have to fall in love with it. I’ve weekends. İstanbul Directory, 11811. lived in İstanbul for 33 years and I’m still Which of İstanbul’s restaurants should Turkcell Directory, 11832. discovering new places. It’s an irresistible visitors try? Some of my favourites are destination, and has something to meet Avea Directory, 11855. Italian cuisine at Il Conte and Da Mario on Vodafone Directory, 11842. everyone’s expectations. the Asian side; on the European side I like Same Area Calls, just the 7 digit number. What parts of İstanbul must visitors see? Sunset, Topaz, Hanedan, Arnavutköy Sur Area Codes in İstanbul, Europen Side: 212, They should of course see Sultanahmet Balık and Park Fora. Asian Side: 216. From Area to Area, 0+area code+number (Blue) Mosque and Hagia Sophia. Then What do you like to do in İstanbul during they must go to Bankalar and Kemankeş International, 0+0+ country code+area your free time? I love the Florya area and code+number. Streets in Karaköy, home to popular venues enjoy drinking tea in the tea gardens here. like Fosil, Colonie, Unter and Gaspar. For I also love wandering through Karaköy and breakfast, Çerkezköy Kahvaltı Salonu is a Beykoz. When I’m in Bakırköy, I eat döner airLINEs perfect first choice. and quince dessert at Abdülkadir Lokanta. Air France What about the city’s hidden treasures? Also, I head to the Tramvay Kafe on İstiklal www.airfrance.com.tr. Emirhan Cad. 145 Atakule The Fener-Balat neighbourhood, Tekfur Caddesi, and Chilay in Bebek. A Blok Dikilitaş, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 310 1919. Palace, Mihriman Sultan Mosque, the What about some uniquely İstanbul Anadolu Jet Underground Mosque in Karaköy, the Arap experiences? Some of the loveliest things www.anadolujet.com.tr. Cumhuriyet Cad. Mosque and the Etz Hayim Synagogue in for visitors are the traditional Turkish bath Gezidükkanları 7, Taksim. T: 0212 444 2538. Ortaköy are my personal favourites. ritual at Kılıç Ali Paşa Hamam in Tophane, Atlasjet Tell us about your hotel restaurant… fish sandwiches in Eminönü, pistachio www.atlasjet.com. T: 0212 444 3387. At our Starboard Restaurant, we serve paste in Bebek, and pickle juice at the Spice British Airways Turkish and world cuisine; some of the Bazaar. www.britishairways.com.tr. Maslak Mah. Bilim Sok. favourites dishes are the Bosphorus köfte 5, K:15, Şişli. T: 0212 367 9292.

58 WHERE İstanbul I MARCH 2015 ESSENTIALS

Emirates Atatürk Airport Sabiha Gökçen Airport T: 0216 585 5000. www.emirates.com. Şişli Plaza, 19 Mayıs Cad. 5/7, The first and largest of İstanbul’s two airports www.sabihagokcen.aero. A Blok K:8, Şişli. T: 0212 315 4545. this is situated 24 km west of the city centre, on LOST LUGGAGE OFFICE the European side. With both international and Gulf Air Sabiha Gökçen Airport: International Terminal domestic flights operating round the clock, it www.gulfair.com. Cumhuriyet Cad. 131, Harbiye. Lost Luggage Office T: 0216 588 8802. Domestic boasts fully equipped emergency health services. T: 0212 231 3450. Terminal Lost Luggage Office T: 0216 588 8650. The airport is accessible by metro; however, a taxi KLM is recommended, particularly if carrying heavy www.klm.com.tr. Emirhan Cad. 145, Atakule A Blok luggage. Regular shuttle buses run by ground K:14, Dikilitaş, Beşiktaş. T: 0212 310 1900. services provider Havataş approx every 30 mins AIRPORT TRANSFER Havataş: Offers shuttle services to and from the Lufthansa depart to and from Taksim, stopping at Aksaray, airport every half hour between Atatürk Airport- www.lufthansa.com.tr. Etiler and Bakırköy. Check for schedule. Taksim and Sabiha Gökçen Airport-Kadıköy / Atatürk Airport International Terminal, Yeşilköy. Havaş Call Center T: 0212 444 0487. Sabiha Gökçen Airport-Taksim. T: 0212 354 8888. www.havas.com.tr. Atatürk Airport Enq T: 0212 463 3000. www.havatas.com.tr. T: 444 44 36. Pegasus Airlines www.ataturkairport.com. www.flypgs.com. T: 0212 444 0737. LOST LUGGAGE OFFICE GETTING AROUND Singapore Airlines Atatürk Airport: TAV-(International and Domestic www.singaporeair.com. Terminals Lost Luggage Office) T: 0212 465 3000. Buses EGS Business Park Plazaları B2, K:8, 278, Yeşilköy. Sabiha Gökçen Airport The City buses and Bus Rapid Transit systems are T: 0212 463 1800. run by the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality. Located on the Asian side, Sabiha Gökçen Airport Payment is with the İstanbul Kart – an electronic Turkish Airlines (THY) is 40 km from Kadıköy, 12 km from Pendik and 50 card purchased for a deposit fee at sales points. www.turkishairlines.com. Cumhuriyet Cad. km from Taksim. A smaller airport, this has some Valid on buses, trams, metro and ferries, it is easily Gezidükkanları 7, Taksim. international flights but mainly domestic flights, charged at machines located in many stations, and T: 0212 444 0849. plus all the budget airlines. Transport to and from provides half-price transfers. Ticket prices vary the airport include city buses, and taxis. As the according to distance. www.iett.gov.tr. airport is far away from central locations, ground airports Information Line T: 0800 211 6068, services provider Havataş also runs buses to and Headquarters T: 0212 245 0720. İstanbul has two major international airports; one from Kozyatağı and Taksim. on the European side and the other on the Asian Havataş Call Center T: 0212 444 0487. Ferries side. www.havas.com.tr. City ferries operate out from Sirkeci, Eminönü

MARCH 2015 I İstanbUl WHERE 59 ESSENTIALS

BOSPHORUS TOURS Half- and full-day Bosphorus and Princes’ Islands Tours.

İdo Nostalgic Bosphorus Tours • Eminönü Dep. 10.35am - 1.35pm • Beşiktaş Dep. 10.50am - 1.50pm • Anadolu Kavağı Dep. 3pm - 5pm T: 444 44 36.

Bosphorus Tours By Private Boats Half-day tours on private boats. Historical venues such as the Çırağan Palace and Beylerbeyi Palace may also be included in the programme. www.plantours.com. T: 0212 234 7777.

Swissôtel Owned by the hotel, The İstanbul, extends the elegance of Swissôtel to the Bosphorus as well with its fine decor and food service. Brunch, lunch and dinner served during the tours. and Karaköy piers all day long to the Bosphorus, Kazlıçeşme-Ayrılık Çeşmesi 6am-11.40pm. T: 0212 326 1100 ext. 8272. the Asian side, and Princess Islands. Ayrılık Çeşmesi-Kazlıçeşme Sea Taxis Visit www.sehirhatlari.com.tr. for the latest 6am-7am (10 min) updated timetables. T: 0212 444 1851. www.deniztaksi.com.tr. T: 0212 444 4498. 7am-10am(7min) Su Samuru Metro 10am-4pm (10min) With their specially built boats and a well-trained The underground railway in Istanbul has 4 4pm-8pm (7min) team of captains, this sea taxi gives 24-hour service European lines (3 in service, all will be extended; 8pm-12am (10min) year round. www.su-samuru.com. 1 under construction); 2 Asian lines (1 in service, FEES T: 0533 777 7718. will be extended; 1 under construction), with 65 İstanbul Kart/Akbil electronic ticket stations inservice. www.istanbul-ulasim.com.tr. and all others: FAMILY TRAVEL SERVICES M1-Aksaray-Atatürk International Airport Full rate: 2,15 TL Student: 1,10 TL Disabled, M1A: Aksaray, Emniyet/Fatih, Ulubatlı/Topkapı, 65 Years and over: Free of Charge Hotel Momcierge Bayrampaşa-Maltepe, Sağmacılar, Kartaltepe/ Transfer Fees: Providing English-speaking babysitters, rental Kocatepe, Otogar, Esenler, Terazidere, Full rate: (1st transfer) 1,60 TL equipment (cribs, strollers, high chairs etc), Davutpaşa/Yıldız Teknik Üniversitesi, Merter, (2nd transfer) 1,50 TL transfers with car seats, kid-friendly tours and Zeytinburnu, Bakırköy-İncirli, Bahçelievler, Ataköy- (3rd, 4th and 5th transfers) 1,30TL other services in Istanbul and Bodrum. Şirinevler, Yenibosna, DTM/İstanbul Fair Center, Student: (1st transfer) 0,45TL, www.hotelmomcierge.com T: 0531 777 4580. Airport (2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th transfers) 0,45TL M1B-Esenler, Menderes, Üçyüzlü, Bağcılar, Kirazlı Taxis HELI SERVICES M2-Yenikapı-Hacıosman The bright yellow taxis are available around the Helicopter Tour Yenikapı, Vezneciler, Haliç, Şişhane, Taksim, clock, and are best hailed on the street. It is best Helicopter Tour offers touristic heli tours over the Osmanbey, Şişli/Mecidiyeköy, Gayrettepe, Levent, to avoid taxis waiting outside major tourist venues city and rents its helis for any destination. The 4.Levent, Sanayi, İTÜ Ayazağa, Atatürk Oto Sanayi, and hotels. Fares should always run on the meter, company has three types of tour with different Darüşşafaka, Hacıosman with the same tariff now for both day and night. content and length; the small tour, the big tour and M3-Başakşehir Ensure the meter is running as soon as you get in, the mega tour. www.helicoptertouristanbul.com. Metrokent, Başak Konutları, Siteler, Turgut Özal, and refuse to take a journey where the driver tries T: 0533 969 0977. İkitelli, Sanayi, Olimpiyat Ziya Gökalp Mah, İstoç, to agree a price in advance. Mahmutbey, Yeni Mahalle, Kirazlı These are a safe mode of transport day and night. Luxury TRAMS AND FUNICULARS Train transportation Istanbul is served by three separate tramway SİRKECİ TRAIN STATION systems. The Asian side has a heritage tramline, Yasaroglu Limousine & Luxury Services TCDD station located on the European side. whereas the European side has both a heritage Based in İstanbul, we offer unforgettable Visitors may buy tickers at the counter here for all tramline and a modern tram system. Istanbul is experiences in luxury services. Together with destinations to Europe and elsewhere in Turkey. also served by two underground funicular rail- the top model luxurious vehicles all the time, ways, of very different ages and styles. Trains to anatolian Turkey depart from Haydarpaşa professional and presentable drivers fluent in station near Kadıköy on the asian side. at least a foreign language and all the luxurious MARMARAY For enquiries, www.tcdd.gov.tr. T: 0212 527 0050. transportation solutions such as private aircraft, A major transportation infrastructure project of yacht and helicopter, Yasaroglu Limousine & 76km-long commuter rail system, Marmaray’s Seabuses Luxury Services has been offering the best quality 13.6 km railway part is opened in Oct. 2014 and; Seabuses operate on 19 lines, and serve 32 points. service since 1980. 444 0 925. www.ido.com.tr. T: 0212 444 4436. connecting European and Asian sides of Istanbul [email protected] via a 1.4 km immersed tube tunnel beneath FAST FERRY LINES www.yasaroglulimousine.com the Bosphorus. Marmaray joins the stations at Yenikapı-Bursa-Yenikapı • Yenikapı-Bandırma- Yenikapı, Sirkeci and Kazlıçeşme in Europe with Yenikapı • Yenikapı-Yalova-Yenikapı • Pendik- the stations at Üskudar and Ayrılık Çeşmesi in Yalova-Pendik. RENT A CAR Asia, making it possible to cross from Old Istanbul

in Europe to Üsküdar in Asia in a matter of INTER-CITY SEABUS LINES Airport Tours www.airport-tours.com. Atatürk Airport minutes. www.marmaray.gov.tr Bosphorus Line: Beşiktaş-Kadıköy International Terminal, Yeşilköy. T: 0212 465 4550. TRAIN HOURS PRINCES’ISLANDS SEABUS LINES Ayrılık Çeşmesi-Kazlıçeşme Kabataş-Kınalı-Burgaz-Heybeli-Büyükada- Avis Ayrılık Çeşmesi-Kazlıçeşme 6am-12am. Bostancı. www.avis.com.tr. T: 444 2847.

60 WHERE İstanbul I MARCH 2015 ESSENTIALS

Budget T: 0212 528 6821. Branch, At Meydanı 31, Greece, www.greekembassy.org.tr. Turnacıbacı www.budget.com.tr. T: 444 4722. Sultanahmet. T: 0212 518 1800. Sok. 32, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 393 8290.

Eurocity Rent A Car Tourism Information Offices Germany, www.germanembassyank.com. www.eurocityrentacar.com. Atatürk Airport Sultanahmet, At Meydanı, T: 0212 5181802 - İsmet İnönü Cad. 16/18, Gümüşsuyu. International Arrivals Terminal, Yeşilköy. 0212 5187454. Taksim, Hilton Hotel entrance, T: 0212 334 6100. T: 0212 603 6266 - 68. Elmadağ, Taksim. T: 0212 233 0592. Yeşilköy, Atatürk Airport, Yeşilköy. India, www.indembassy.org.tr. Cumhuriyet Cad. Interlimousine T: 0212 465 3151 - 0212 465 3547. 18/7, Dörtler Apt. Elmadağ. T: 0212 296 2131. www.interlimousine.com.tr. Inter Kat Otoparkı, Cemal Reşit Rey Konser Salonu Altı, Harbiye. Italy, www.consistanbul.esteri.it. Boğazkesen T: 0212 444 9977. TOURISM polıce Cad. Tom Tom Kaptan Sok. 15, Tophane, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 252 5437. Rentel Yerebatan Cad. 6, Sultanahmet. Providing a top-notch car rental service to T: 0212 527 4503. Japan, Büyükdere Cad. 209, Tekfen Tower K:10, İstanbul’s visitors with its expert rental staff. 4. Levent. T: 0212 317 4600. Dependable, well-equipped luxury car fleet, V.I.P. chauffeured vehicles, rental and VIP transfer Korea, Kaptanpaşa Mah. Piyale Paşa Bulvarı, services, with efficient, quality service. BOSPHORUS TOURS Orta Doğu Plaza K:19, Okmeydanı, Şişli. www.rentel.com.tr. Irmak Cad. Kaşkaval Sok. 21, T: 0212 368 8398. Private Bosphorus Yacht Tours Beyoğlu. T: 0212 444 1 434 These VIP yachts will give you a Bosphorus Malaysia, Halaskargazi Cad. 150, Çankaya Apt. experience like no other. Recommended by K:4, D:7, Şişli. T: 0212 247 1728. sıghtseeıng Istanbul’s finest hotels including the Swiss Hotel, Russia, www.turkey.mid.ru. İstiklal Cad. 219, Four Seasons, The Ritz Carlton and more, our Big Bus Tours Beyoğlu. T: 0212 292 5101. yachts will give you all the comforts of a 5-star Big Bus Tours provides the perfect introduction hotel as you enjoy the beauty of the Bosphorus. to İstanbul, a city that straddles two continents: Saudi Arabia, Konaklar Mah. Çamlık Cad. A special occasion in one of our yachts will go Europe and Asia. This carefully designed tour Akasyalı Sok. 6, 4. Levent. T: 0212 281 9140. from special to unforgettable. takes people to the major landmarks and historic www.kiraliktekneler.com. Arnavutköy Mah. South Africa, www.southafrica.org.tr. sites. www.bigbustours.com. Dulkadiroğulları Sok. 22, Beşiktaş. Alarko Holding A.Ş. Muallim Naci Cad. 69, Bindirdirek Mah. Dostluk Yurdu Sok. Yeşil Apt. 1/5, T: 0212 251 5272. Ortaköy. T: 0212 227 5200. Sultanahmet. T: 0212 283 1396. Spain, Karanfil Aralığı Sok. 16, 1. Levent. SPECIAL TOURS consulates T: 0212 270 7410. İstanbul Walks Argentina, Süzer Plaza, Askerocağı Cad. 9, K: 16, Switzerland, Büyükdere Cad. 173, 1. Levent The only travel agency which organises more 34367, Elmadağ, Şişli. T: 0212 243 1170. Plaza A Blok K:3, Levent. T: 0212 283 1282. than 40 İstanbul tours in English, inc the Istanbul Azerbaijan, Sümbül Sok. 17/1, Levent. United Arab Emirates, Classic, Bosphorus, Dolmabahçe Palace, the T: 0212 325 8042. www.uaeconsulate.com.tr. Jewish Quarter, Blue Mosque Area, Bosphorus Büyükdere Cad. Meşeli Sok. 11, 4. Levent. Cruise, Walk in Asia and much more. China, www.chinaembassy.org.tr. Kireçburnu T: 0212 317 9257. www.istanbulwalks.com. Şifahamamı Sok. 1, K:1, Mah. Mısırlı Cad. Memduhpaşa Yalısı 6/8, Sarıyer. Sultanahmet. T: 0212 516 6300 - 01. T: 0212 299 2634. United Kingdom, www.britishembassy.org.tr. Meşrutiyet Cad. 34, Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu. Finland, Yeni Çamlık Cad. Ayaz Sok. 5, 4. Levent. T: 0212 334 6400. TOURISM T: 0212 283 5737. City Tourim and Culture Directorate USA, www.istanbul.usconsulate.gov. France, www.consulfrance-istanbul.org. İstiklal www.istanbulkulturturizm.gov.tr. Main Office, Alay İstinye Mah. Kaplıcalar Mevkii 2, İstinye. Cad. 8, Beyoğlu. T: 0212 334 8730. Köşkü, Gülhane Parkı içi, Eminönü. T: 0212 335 9000.

We let our customers enjoy the beauty of the and customer satisfaction with our unparalleled Bosphorus to the fullest. We work with Turkey’s VIP Bosphorus Tour. In short, we love our work. elite agencies and companies as well as İstanbul’s We know that the Bosphorus is worth seeing and five-star hotels. Our portfolio also includes experiencing. The full beauty of the Bosphorus is ultra-luxury yachts to meet our customers’ needs. hidden in the details, and the details are hidden in Den Den Yachts guarantees the finest conditions Den Den Yachts.

Arnavutköy Mah. Dulkadiroğulları Sok. No:22 Beşiktaş /İstanbul Tel: +90212 251 52 72 Mobile: +90533 447 10 47 www.kiraliktekneler.com • [email protected] • [email protected]

MARCH 2015 I İstanbUl WHERE 61

Central Istanbul Map

T: +90212 251 52 72 www.kiraliktekneler.com [email protected] [email protected] ∆ PRIVATE YACHT RENTAL [ WHERe IN Ista nbul] My Perfect Day

Where do you head for Turkish and Ottoman cuisine? I love Kiva in Galata, and Borsa Lokantası in Kandilli. Kiva’s stuffed grape leaves are especially good.

Where do you head for nightlife? I go quite frequently to Lucca in Bebek. Samim I also really like Huqqa and The Market in Hatipoğlu Restaurant in Karaköy. (Founder of Kronos Development) Samim Hatipoğlu is founding Do you have a favourite neighbourhood or street? I think Kuzguncuk is the most partner of Kronos Development. undisturbed neighbourhood, in that it has Now his projects are Brooklyn managed to preserve its old character. It’s Park İstanbul and Çengelköy great fun to visit the little shops and art Park. He kindly spoke with us galleries there. I also enjoy having tea and about his favourite spots in smoking a water pipe in Çengelköy’s cafes around the ancient plane tree. İstanbul.

Which of İstanbul’s fish restaurants do you enjoy? My top place for fish is Façyo in the Kireçburnu neighbourhood; I just love the peace and quietn there as well as its nostalgic location. My favourite meze there is the grilled shrimp.

How do you most like to spend your weekends in İstanbul? I like to ride my bicycle from the Bosphorus to Sultanahmet and have breakfast there. Where is your favourite place in İstanbul On the Asian side, I love walking along the to shop? waterfront. I also enjoy going to shows at I like to shop on Bağdat Caddesi, and the the Kadıköy Süreyya Opera, and playing road that leads from Galatasaray down to the backgammon in the Bebek Cafe. waterfront. My favourite designer is Atıl Kutoğlu.

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