Advanced Practical Cookery
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ADVANCED fourth edition PRACTICAL COOKERY a textbook for education & industry John Campbell Professor David Foskett Victor Ceserani Hodder Arnold A MEMBER OF THE HODDER HEADLINE GROUP Orders: please contact Bookpoint Ltd, 130 Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4SB. Telephone: (44) 01235 827720. Fax: (44) 01235 400454. Lines are open from 9.00 – 5.00, Monday to Saturday, with a 24 hour message answering service. You can also order through our website www.hodderheadline.co.uk. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this title is available from the British Library ISBN-9780340912355 First published 1995 Second edition published 1997 Third edition published 2002 Fourth edition published 2006 Impression number 109876543 Year 2012 2011 2010 2009 2008 2007 Copyright © 2006 John Campbell, David Foskett and Victor Ceserani All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher or under license from the Copyright Licensing Agency Limited. Further details of such licenses (for reprographic reproduction) may be obtained from the Copyright Licensing Agency Limited, Saffron House, 6–10 Kirby Street, London EC1N 8TS. Cover photo © Sam Bailey. Original photography by Sam Bailey Typeset by Fakenham Photosetting Ltd, Fakenham, Norfolk Illustrations by Barking Dog Art Printed in Singapore for Hodder Arnold, an imprint of Hodder Education, a division of Hodder Headline Plc, 338 Euston Road, London NW1 3BH by Kim Hup Lee (KHL) CONTENTS Acknowledgements v 3 SOUPS 115 Foreword vi Principles of soup making 115 Introduction 1 Consommés 117 Contribute to the control of resources 4 Broths 120 Health, hygiene, safety and security of Purée soups 123 the working environment 9 Chilled soups 130 Establish and develop positive working relationships in hospitality 13 4 EGG DISHES 133 Contribute to the development of recipes and menus 18 FISH DISHES 143 Healthy eating and menu development 29 5 Food safety 37 Fish 151 Assessing the taste and quality of Shellfish 180 dishes 46 6 MEAT DISHES 199 1 HORS D’OEUVRE AND BUFFET Lamb 209 ITEMS 49 Beef 220 Cold preparations 49 Veal 229 Gels and setting agents 52 Pork 234 Sauces, chutneys and dressings 55 Compound salads 59 7 POULTRY AND GAME 241 Miscellaneous 61 Poultry 247 Cold fish preparations 64 Game 267 Buffet items 68 Cold meat preparations 74 8 INTERNATIONAL CUISINE 283 Terrines, pies, ballotines and galantines 75 Caribbean 285 Crostinis and nibbles 86 China 286 Canapés – hot and cold 90 India 289 Indonesia 294 2 HOT SAUCES AND STOCKS 97 Malaysia 296 Stocks 98 Mexico 298 Nages 101 Middle East 299 Glazes 103 Spain 301 Egg-based sauces 104 Thailand 303 Creamed thickened sauces 106 Vietnam 304 Soubises, and vegetable and fruit purées 108 Oil-based sauces 112 iv Advanced Practical Cookery 9 VEGETABLE, POTATO, PASTA AND Ice cream, sorbets and frozen desserts 400 VEGETARIAN DISHES 307 Sauces 403 Meringues and soufflés 405 Potato dishes 311 E’spumas 408 Vegetable dishes 320 Tarts, slices and gâteaux 411 Vegetarian dishes 337 Puddings 419 Pasta dishes 356 Biscuits and cakes 420 Chocolate goods and petits fours 423 10 PASTRY 363 Miscellaneous 427 Preparation and materials 363 Sugar 430 Use of modern techniques and Marzipan 435 equipment 363 Chocolate 437 The basic building blocks 366 Pastillage 440 Pastes and doughs 380 Creams 383 Glossary 441 Sponges 384 Index 444 Yeast products 389 Mousses 398 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS We gratefully acknowledge the following chefs who have contributed recipes to the book: Anthony Marshall; Ron Maxfield; Stephen Goodlad; Mark McCann; John Williams; René Rauvert; Mehernosh Mody; and Atul Kochhar. Additional acknowledgements to Dr Jenny Poulter, Jane Cliff and Pat Bacon for their contribution to the nutritional analysis. We are most grateful to the following for preparing foods for the photo shoots: Yolande Stanley MCA, Senior Lecturer, from the London School of Tourism, Hospitality and Leisure at Thames Valley University; Roger Serjent, formerly of the Conrad Hotel, Chelsea Harbour; John Campbell BSc, The Vineyard at Stockcross; Peter Eaton; and Natalie Mitchell. We would also like to thank the British Pig Executive and the English Beef and Lamb Executive for their generous contribution to the costs of the colour photography, and finally the photographer, Sam Bailey, who did such an exemplary job. vi Advanced Practical Cookery FOREWORD Forte plc was the original sponsor of Advanced Practical Cookery.As its then Chairman I was happy to write the Foreword. Forte no longer exists and I have developed a new company, Rocco Forte Hotels. In recent years there has been a huge growth in interest in food and cooking. There is an increased awareness of what constitutes ‘good food’ and a much greater propensity to experience a wide range of ethnic foods. The explosion of successful restaurants, not just in London but throughout the UK, offering a variety of dishes is witness to this. The excesses of nouvelle cuisine have been left behind, with a return to a more classical approach but still retaining the attractive presentation format of the former. People are also conscious of the health and nutritional aspects of food and are now demanding simpler food that is still well presented. My hotel restaurants are an important part of the product I offer to my customers. They must feel like independent restaurants and attract outside customers. The restaurant must offer glamorous surroundings and value for money. It must offer dishes with which our customers are familiar and feel comfortable, as well as more original ideas. The secret is to keep it simple: too many chefs try to over-elaborate, but the delivery must be to a high quality standard. Advanced Practical Cookery will provide an invaluable source of information for catering students and help them towards a successful career in an industry where there is a huge demand for their skills. The Right Honourable Sir Rocco Forte Introduction INTRODUCTION The content of this book encompasses the with practical application, almost all recipes requirements of those taking Food can be adapted to meet budgetary or any Preparation and Cooking, Kitchen and Larder, other restrictions. and Pâtisserie and Confectionery units at NVQ/SVQ Levels 3 and 4. The Advanced In this edition of the book, John Campbell, Craft qualification awarded by City & Guilds, one of Britain’s top chefs, has made a major Edexcel BTEC Level 3 Advanced Certificate contribution, introducing modern techniques, and Diploma in International Cuisine, and practices and recipes. Many of the dishes can Centra ABC Levels 2 and 3 Pâtisserie be adapted to a range of industrial sectors. Confectionery are intended for those already The key to successful combinations is working in industry, as well as those taking simplicity using a range of high quality fresh full- and part-time courses. This book will be ingredients. useful for those engaged in supported self- John Campbell has included recipes from his study and open learning programmes, and for own establishment, The Vineyard at those wanting to increase their qualifications Stockcross, where he has a number of in the workplace. If reference to any basic accolades including two Rising Michelin stars. knowledge is required, Practical Cookery In the kitchens of the Vineyard he carefully should be found helpful, and The Theory of develops dishes using his knowledge of Catering can assist with any further science and technology. This is evident information. throughout this book. However, before one is However, having acquired the basic culinary able to develop recipes using a scientific knowledge and skills, all students taking approach, a good grounding in classical courses that include practical cookery or cuisine is essential, so that the systems, gastronomy will find this book helpful. The processes and procedures which underpin content will also be useful for those taking professional cookery are learnt and Higher National Diplomas and Degrees in mastered. Culinary Arts. The dishes in this book all follow a classical The aim is to extend the repertoire of catering approach but have been adapted for a modern students and professionals. To gain an industry which demonstrates flair and advanced craft qualification, the chef should creativity. be able to adapt and extend existing recipes, Emphasis has also been placed on to develop their own variations, and have a presentation and healthy, nutritionally broad awareness of a wide variety of balanced alternatives. This has become very ingredients and cuisines. Where appropriate, important with the demand from customers we suggest variations for recipes, with the for more nutritional labelling. intention of stimulating further ways of adapting and creating different dishes. In this book, metric measurements are used Adaptability is essential when producing for two main reasons: younger British dishes that, at first glance, appear impractical students do not understand Imperial and expensive. By using common sense, and measurements and metric is the international 2 Advanced Practical Cookery standard. Metric also makes batching up and I skimmed milk, or semi-skimmed, instead of down, and analysis, easier. For those who full-cream milk prefer Imperial, approximate conversion I minimum use of sugar or, in some cases, charts are provided on the book flaps, for easy reduced-calorie sweeteners reference. I low-fat cheese instead of full-fat cheese. Many of the recipes in this book have been USE AND EASE OF adjusted, incorporating some of these principles as alternatives to be used as and REFERENCE when required. Where we state oil, sunflower oil is recommended other than for fierce heat, Most recipes give quantities for four and ten when pomace olive oil is more suitable. When portions, the most useful combinations for yoghurt is stated, we mean natural yoghurt those working in an operating kitchen, or with a low fat content.