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COMPILED BY lnderjeet K. Virmani The International Rice Research Institute (IRRI) was established in 1960 by the Ford and Rockefeller Foundations with the help and approval of the Government of the Philippines. Today IRRI is one of the 13 nonprofit international research and training centers supported by the Consultative Group on International Agricultural Research (CGIAR). The CGIAR is sponsored by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, the International Bank for Reconstruction and Development (World Bank), and the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP). The CGIAR consists of 50 donor countries, international and regional organizations, and private founda- tions. IRRI receives support, through the CGIAR, from a number of donors including the Asian Development Bank, the European Economic Community, the Ford Foundation, the International Development Research Centre, the International Fund for Agricul- tural Development, the OPEC Special Fund, the Rockefeller Foundation, UNDP, the World Bank, and the international aid agencies of the following governments: Australia; Belgium, Brazil, Canada, China, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, India, Iran, Italy, Japan, Republic of Korea, Mexico, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, the Philippines, Saudi Arabia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, United Kingdom, and United States. The responsibility for this publication rests with the International Rice Research Institute. Copyright © International Rice Research Institute 1991 All rights reserved. Except for quotations of short passages for the purpose of criticism and review, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in retrieval systems, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without prior permission of IRRI. This permission will not be unreasonably withheld for use for noncommercial purposes. IRRI does not require payment for the noncommercial use of its published works, and hopes that this copyright declaration will not diminish the bona fide use of its research findings in agricultural research and development. The designations employed in the presentation of the material in this publication do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of IRRI concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city, or area, or of its authorities, or the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries. ISBN 971-22-0023-X Contents Foreword v Preface vii Rice 1 Asia 6 Middle East 57 Africa 64 North and South America 67 Europe 75 Australia 78 Beverages and appetizers 81 Soups and salads 99 Vegetables 115 Poultry, meat, seafood, and fish 139 Breads and rolls 181 Desserts 293 Cakes and cookies 209 Pickles and chutneys 223 Kitchen hints 233 Glossary 239 Selected references 252 Foreword Food has many meanings: sustenance, living in the IRRI Staff Housing compound. security, hospitality, home, life. As one of The International Rice Research Institute the chief foods of the world, rice focuses on increasing the efficiency of rice especially occupies a rich and varied place production and the sustainability of rice- in many cultures. Home chefs of the world, growing environments. Scientists from all compiled by Mrs. Inderjeet K. Virmani, over the world conduct research at IRRI should be especially appreciated by those and in collaborating countries to meet that who are fond of the cuisines of different objective. countries, particularly of the rice-based Members of several charitable dishes of cultures dependent on rice. international women's associations, such Mrs. Virmani is an excellent cook in as Suhay in Los Baños where IRRI has its her own right, a skill developed while headquarters and organizations of women living in many countries, and a fine writer, connected with the Asian .Development as you will discover in reading the articles Bank and the United Nations offices in preceding the recipes collected in the Manila, contributed to the cookbook. book. She took great pains to select I hope publication of this book will recipes of exceptional representative foster increased understanding and dishes to include in this compilation, cultural exchange among many conducting personal interviews and international groups. Its publication is a working in the kitchens of many friends. joint endeavor of IRRI and Suhay. A major section devoted to rice and rice-based recipes reflects Mrs. Virmani's Klaus Lampe special interest in rice, developed while Director General Preface This book is the outcome of a joint effort non-vegetarian dishes. Without those by the International Rice Research Institute recipes, this book would not have been and Suhay, the international women's completed. (Each recipe bears the name of organization of Los Baños that supports the contributor and the country where the charitable projects related to food, medical recipe originates. When two countries are care, shelter, and education for the given, the one in parentheses is the native downtrodden. country of the contributor and the other is The extent of the activities Suhay can the country represented by the recipe.) support depends on the availability of My special thanks go to Mmes. Fauzi funds collected voluntarily by members of Bhuiyan and Ilse Zandstra. The secretarial the organization. During my term as help of Ms. Leonida Nazarea is gratefully president 1989-1990, I proposed compiling acknowledged. I would also like to thank a cookbook, to sell for raising much Dr. Thomas R. Hargrove, head of IRRI needed funds to support Suhay's Information Center, for fostering the expanding activities. The members agreed. collaboration with Suhay that made this Consequently, I started compiling and project possible. Thanks are also due Ms. writing this book. Many recipes were Gloria S. Argosino for editing and Mr. submitted by my friends in Suhay and by Ramiro Cabrera for production other colleagues from overseas and supervision. I am grateful to Mrs. Marie- members of the United Nations Women's Luise Kurschner for the illustrations. Group and the Asian Development Bank I hope this book will foster Women's Group based in Manila. My international friendship and cultural interest in rice has been enhanced by my exchange among people of different life in the rice environment of IRRI, and I nationalities. It can further serve as a have devoted a special section to stories souvenir for those who have lived in or about rice in the religious and visited Los Baños, Laguna, Philippines, sociocultural activities of different and who would like to assist in the countries. continuing, extensive charitable activities I am grateful to the members of Suhay of Suhay. and other international women's organizations who generously shared Inderjeet K. Virmani directions for their favorite vegetarian and October 1991 Rice Origin and Distribution brought it to New Caledonia and the The ancient Indian name for rice- Germans to New Guinea. "Dhanya," meaning "sustenance for the Rice cultivation in the United States of human race" — indicates the crop's age-old America dates back to about 1646 AD. The importance. Man has cultivated rice since cereal was introduced in Virginia but was prehistoric times. Specimens of rice first cultivated in South Carolina. Presently, discovered in China date back to 5000 BC. rice is cultivated on a commercial scale in Rice as a cultivated crop in Asia originated California, Arkansas, Louisiana, Mississippi, in tropical India. All Hindu scriptures Texas, and South Carolina. mention rice and all offerings to God Rice has been grown commercially in include rice, an indication of the antiquity Australia since 1924. The North Island of of the crop. New Zealand also grows rice successfully. Rice was introduced into Indonesia by Rice grows from 55 °N latitude to Deutero-Malayans that immigrated to this 37.5 °S, from an altitude of 3,000 m in the region about 1599 BC. Indonesia is the Himalayas to places below sea level. It land where a race of rice called javanica grows on slopes of mountain ranges to originated. In fact, the name Java is said to areas with 2 meters deep standing water. mean "island of rice." Thus, rice is the most versatile food crop Rice came to Japan by way of China. cultivated in the modern world. Japan has long been famous for the excellence of its rice and rice cultivation Food Value methods. Rice has also been grown in Sri About 85% of the rice kernel is Lanka (formerly Ceylon) since time carbohydrates, most of which are in the immemorial. Much later, rice cultivation endosperm. Freshly harvested rice spread farther west. The Greeks learned of contains 72-75% starch. The protein rice from the Persians and medieval content of milled rice is low (8-9%), but its Europe got it from the Saracens. The crop digestibility is high, being 96.5 for the was introduced in northern Italy in the whole grain and 98% for milled rice. The 15th century. The Malays brought rice to fat content of rice is low (2-2.4%); about Madagascar and Indians introduced it in 85% is removed in the process of milling. the East African islands. The Moors The amount of fat-soluble Vitamins A and brought rice to Spain and the Turks D in rice is negligible, but the Vitamin E introduced it over much of the content is considerable. Husked rice has a southeastern part of Europe. The high Vitamin B content, at least one-tenth Portuguese introduced rice in Brazil and that of dried yeast. The riboflavin content the Spaniards in Central America and parts is low and Vitamin C is practically absent. of South America. The crop was Rice loses considerable nutrients introduced in Hawaii in 1853. The French through milling and polishing. Rice 1 Before cooking, it is customary to properly, and cooked in a double wash rice, often with several changes of boiler or over a slow fire—to avoid water, to remove dust, insects, husk, and charring at the bottom—until the other impurities. Washing dissolves some water is fully absorbed.

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