Walking the Jewish Past?

CEU eTD Collection

The effects of tourism on the interpretations o In Walking the Jewish Past?

partial

fulfilment Department

of Budapest Jewish District

the Submitted

requirements Supervisor: of Erzsébet

to Sociology Budapest,

Central Anthropology

for 2008

Vlad

by Fanni

the

and European Hungary

Naumescu degree

Social

Tóth

University of Anthropology

Master

of

Sociology

and Social f

CEU eTD Collection memory tourism) (Key words:JewishDistrictBudapest,Holo a selective amnesia isimposedfor memories related totheSoviet past. where newforeignheroeshaveemerged, nostalgia Furthermore, atthesame time itbecomes anin streets, whichsimultaneously turns into asacred Jewish space for selective memories. commoditisation ofurban spacephysically reduces th study ofwalkingtours, whichconstitutecertain practicesof placemaking. Ishowthatthe by andaroundJewishidentityandtheexperienceof century. Iarguethatwiththepostsocialist tran memory, whichhasbeenconstructedandshaped historical JewishDistrictof In thisthesis Iam analysing how transnational tourism observes,narrates and sells the

Budapest, Hungary.Thisurbanspaceisalandscapeofspecific Budapest, Abstract ii sformations thisurbanspacebecame structured caust commemoration, socialmemory sites,

ternational enterprise withapositive meaning by different actorsthroughoutthepasthalf bydifferent has been createdforan idealised pastand

e territoryoftheDist the Holocaust. Iexploreitthroughthe rict toanumber of CEU eTD Collection 2. 1. Table

Table Abstract Table 4. 3. 5.

Theoretical Analysis Methodology Discussion 2.1. 2.2. 2.3. 4.1 3.2 3.1 2.4. 4.2. Introduction 2.1.1. 2.1.2. 4.1.1 4.1.3. 4.1.2 4.1.4. 4.2.1The 4.2.2.

of of Analysis Interviews Analysis

History Reminding Alert Representations Analysis 4.2.1.2. 4.2.1.1. 4.2.2.4. 4.2.2.3. 4.2.2.2. 4.2.2.1. 4.2.1.3.

figures: Contents of ......

Naming Urban

...... The The Visual Tourist Structure

walking Contents

......

actors

framework of of of

Jewish Jewish of Simultaneous Commemoration Heroes The The Monuments The

......

the and space the the

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the and ‐oriented ......

the

tour tourists walking

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Jewish of commercial commercial

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interviews

Remembering District District

tours the

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defined narratives of

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narration ...... District

silencing

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tourism ......

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field Socialism

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fall touristic ......

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observations ......

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Jewish iii

space

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10 22 22 19 18 18 15 12 23 22 26 27 41 30 30 29 43 38 36 35 35 33 31

iii iv 6 1 6 7 9

ii

CEU eTD Collection References Appendix Appendix Appendix Appendix 6. Figure Table Figure Figure Figure

Conclusion Books Brochures Online 1: 2: 4: 3:

of

and The Carl Common Map sources 4 3 2 1

......

figures:

and

articles Jewish Lutz ...... of

the

leaflets ......

memorial representations

...... Triangle Jewish

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of

Budapest

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the

(by Jewish Komoróczy

District iv

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et

al.,

1999,

pp.105)

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58 57 56 55 50 59 59 24 25 27 61 61 42 CEU eTD Collection Currently, aninterestingphenomenon ishappe reality andtruthismerged withtheimage Holocaust. Thisplacehas astrongpotentialof the areaofcurrent 6 first areainPest,whereJewswereallowed The JewishDistrictofBudapestisaspecial location for nu tourism. roots andalsotoseekleisure.Commemoratio international visitors, whotravel the form ofwalkingtours,whichareorgani by openingitforcommercialprofit.Tourism appeared changes incultureofmemory andcommemoration appreciation (Gruber,2002).Thepresentrese transition inurbanand socialaspects, aswe Jewish districtsofEasternEuropehaveunderg 2 1 park wascreated three impressive synagogues,locatedinDohány area workshop owners.Furthermore, duringWW2oneof Hungarian was utca

Its During

creation

located and 1 , where55-70thousandJewswere

the

Károly

State,

in last

can

an

körút. phase

be and

area

linked numerous 2

bordered nexttothemain synagoguein of

the

to th

various WW2 and7

foreign by

Király the actors: th

districtsbecame inhabitedbymostly Jewishmerchants and to thecity(andCentralEur big donators

utca,

ghetto

MAZSIHISZ 1.

Nagyatádi forced tostay.Ontheterrito of

Introduction of

to settle down.Later, in theendof19 Jewish

Budapest sed bylocaltouroperatorsforpredominantly

(Alliance becoming aplaceofmemory. Thehistorical n oftheHolocaustbecame closelylinkedto of thenotionheritageJewishBudapest. one significantchangessincethedemocratic arch aims at providi

, Rumbach andKazinczy streets. Amemorial Szabó ning, whichstartedinthemid-1990’s: the ‐ ll as in their historic and ethno-cultural ll asintheirhistoricandethno-cultural Hungarian have shaped theutilis

was the ghettosofcity

utca

of inthe JewishDistri Dohány street to commemorate the Dohány streettocommemorate

located the

(the

origin

Jewish merous reasons.Itwasoncethe

contemporary

on ope) tosearch for their family

the communities ry ofthedistrictthereare

territory ng explanationofhow ation ofurbanspace

Kertész waslocatedinthis ct ofBudapestin

of

of

the

Hungary), utca),

7th th

district. century Dob

the

It

CEU eTD Collection

Holocaust became aninternationalenterpriseut discovery ofCentralEasternEuropeanJewish As Cole(1999,2002),Asworth(2002)andGrube Jewishness. merge theconcepts ofthehistorical Jewish create arepresentation ofJewi newly emerging walking tourscommoditisethe spacewith itshistories andmemories and 3 but alsobecauseitscontribution toth important notonlyduetomoral issues(e.g.“tri political actorsbutalsocommercialised byen showing howspacesof particularmemories canbeappropriated and creatednot onlyby history andsimultaneously integr structured aspecificurbanareaby re-identif the changes inmemory culture inthecontext commoditised andhowisitconsumed byinternational tourists. Themain question istohow historical Jewishdistrictof The currentresearchisaqualitativestudyofth analysis partofthisthesis). emergence of memory tourism areallhighlypa since the re-discoveryof theJewishdistricts, synagogues. Thesewalkingtourspresentanin districts) and theareaofformer WW2Ghe Hebrew both

Shoah

terms ‐ a

term

term when

for

from

the I

refer

Holocaust,

the

to

Bible,

the

events

meaning which Budapest, Hungary.Itfocuseson

of sh District(soldasthe“Jew

is

ating transnationalmemory tour

the preferred “calamity”.

Nazi

terror. eory aboutcommoditisation oftheShoah

district(locatedinthecontemporary6 by

thechangesincommemorative practices andthe Starting

many ying itwithJewishness,linkingtoaspecific 2 tto, byshrinkingittoaterritorybetweenthree e walkingtours,whichre-defineandshapethe

terpreneurs. Thestudyofthisphenomenon is

vialisation” of the mevialisation” ofthe ilised bytransnational memory tourism. The of post-socialisttransformations alteredand radoxical and discursive (as described in the radoxical anddiscursive(asdescribedinthe teresting topicforanthropologicalinquiry, districts,wheretheremembrance ofthe

Jews

from r (2002)argue,therehasbeenarecent to

the

the

early

term showing howtheurbanspaceis ish Budapest”),inwhich they

1940’s

Holocaust. ism. Furthermore, Iaim at

mory oftheHolocaust) it

became In

this the

MA th

standard andthe7

thesis 3 and I

use th

CEU eTD Collection

Ruth E.Gruber’s(2002)categorisation,theremight urban space,whichmight beaworkofreflecting onthe spaceor memory anditsinterpretation,re Jewishness andeventhoughitusestheconceptofWW2Ghetto,avoidsShoah, its Holocaust. Furthermore, thestudy showsthatthisprocess putsa positive image on commoditising ofurbanspaceby and around Jewish Jewish Budapestlockspecificmemories to I arguethatthewalkingtoursbyimagining,recr exclusionary issues. nostalgia and memories oflostrelativeson portrayed aroundthebloo insight into thepastof theJewish District anditsreligiousinhabitants;howevertheyare specific urban spaceofferwalk agencies 1997). Inthis settingthe Jewishdistrictsof by walkingthecities they canrebuild the past, andremember their lost relatives(Hirsch, have started tosearchfortheirrootsinCent (Bodnár, 2001).Aftertheopeningofnationa for gentrification,becausethesedistrictshave and Cracow)canbeexplainedbyreligiousrevi increased appreciationoftheneglectedJewish 5 4 Usually visit imprints

Not Tour

this all

operators

they

the space (the 4 whobycommoditisingcertainelementsof

tourists also

way

to

who

organise

commemorate they of

offer

the lived

tours

Jewish walking

and ming ageoflate-19

to

died) had

District

other

tours

relatives

in ing toursforforeigntourists maining non-judgemental. Instead,

the parts in

are

the

urban

Jewish.

in of

Jewish

Central Budapest, space.

ral Eastern Europe.Theyareofferedtourswhere the topofcontemporary spaceandfocuson However,

District th the regionsoon became thefocusoftourist 3

century Jewish world. They createaspace of

Europe, certainlocations th districts(amongothers central locationwithol l bordersin1989many NorthAmerican Jews

val after1989andalsobythehighpotential eating andwalkingtheareaofhistorical as

are well

bedifferentkindsofnostalgia,suchas according pastand identity andtheexperienceof

and

theJewishpastandlocating itina usually as

they to

the

not

to walk 5 . Thewalkingtoursofferan

countryside. my theconsumption ofit.Using Jewish

the

findings nostalgia iscreatedinthe

district rough structuringand

(kosher) d historicalresources ofPrague,Warsaw, many

to

find tour

of

those

their agencies.

who

CEU eTD Collection

enterpreneurs, wherethere isnointerest inliv Jewishness, whichinvolves dist walking tour of theJewishDistrict. Iwillargue thatitis onlyadisplay,anexhibition of However, ithastobeaskedwhatthebalance between displayandremembrance isinthe devoted torescuersofJewsduringtheShoah, and peaceful co-existence andmutual helpof variousnations. Sincethesememorials are narrated aroundcontemporaryvalues,suchas qualities andimportance. TheWa introduced astheseco synagogue, theWallenberg Memorial ParkandtheCarlLutzmemorial. TheSynagogueis also articulatedthrough specificurbanspaces where theirancestors livedanddiedbecauseof the globallevelitmakes useoftransnationalflow discourses aboutpoliticsofcomme nostalgia andJewishpastbymaking useoflo I examine howthismemory tourism uses positive image toit. victims) thewalkingtoursavoidnegative about heroism andsavingpeoplein to portray reality. Furthermore, by marketing negative past events inapositive way(talking experienced asan imaginary Jewishspace(Gan intellectuals (Gruber,2002). Thirdly, theco the Austrian-HungarianMonarchywhenth life inthepast. Secondly, there pseudonostalgia forstereotypes,similartotheFiddler ontheRoofstagesetimages ofJewish nd largestsynagogueintheworld, therefore yieldingextraordinary might beanostalgia for the lost(and romanticised) worldof anciation. “Museum Judaism” (Gruber,2002)iscreated by llenberg Memorial Park and moration. Atthelocallevelitus connectiontotheHolocaust urban spaceandhowdoesitcommoditise memory, mmoditised contemporary urbanspacecanbe they representheroism andexemplary altruism. cal/global economic reso 4 ing JewsofBudapest,bu ere wasacoffee-housecultureofJewish demonstrating democracy, rightsforfreedoms

tener and Kovács,2007), whichdoesnothave connotationsoftheareaandattachonlya and monuments, suchastheDohánystreet theirJewishidentity.Localandglobalare ofpeople,whoareeagertovisittheplaces the CarlLutz memorial are instead oftalkingaboutthe es theurbanareawhileon urces and by imposing t onlyintheheritage CEU eTD Collection

between differentrepresentations. institutions), theyremain unknowntotheforei there arealternativereadingsofthiscityscape (e.g. byJewishfoundationsandeducational representations oftourism and mostly Jews from abroad.Thespaceis crea industry. TherealitiesofthisJewi by touroperatorsandisshaped I putforwardthehypothesisthatmainstream Jewishrepresentationofth the pastbecome theartefactsoftour. historical Budapest,atthegoldentimes ofthelate19 living sourcesofJudaismbutrathertocreate of thecity.Ifurtherargue thattheaim ofthewalkingtoursJewishBudapestisnottoshow this thesis) Iarguethatthetourclaims toknowtherealitybetter thanthe contemporary Jews commercial material) andthemonopoly overnarrati walking tours(thereisnoHungariantour offered, andthereisalackofHungarian contemporary localsdo notevenknowabout.Becauseof restrictedparticipation inthe The walking toursclaim tohaveinsight knowledge aboutthe Jewishspace, something thatthe services. argument onthefact thatthe tours donot include visitstoactivecommunities and church Jewish memory isnotinterested incontempor from participation) itcan beargued thatthis (there arenoHungariancommercials andnoH and theartefacts ofthedeceased.Since inBudapest thetoursareorgani the methodsofimposingalsoco according totheneedsof the market, in thiscase the tourism sh districtaretheexpectedna form ofcommoditisation of theJewishspaceand 5 ary JewishcommunityofBudapest.Ibasemy ted andre-createdaccording tothenostalgic

gn visitorsandtherefor ungarian guidedtours, apictureofwhat“Jewish”meant inthe on (discussedfurtherin th century.Thus,therepresentationsof rrations of thevisitorswhoare mply withtheserules.Though sed onlyforforeigners excludinglocalJews e theycannotchoose e districtisimposed theanalysisof CEU eTD Collection

participate inconstruc were bannedtoownbuiltpropert synagogue wasalsobuiltinthis allowed theJewishmerchants tostayoverforth in thelife of theJewishcommunity,since itwasthefirst areaof historical Pest, which known fortheiragriculturalproduction. perpendicular positiontothestreets.Thehouses had village-like features. Ithadfreestandi is partofthetoday’s6 The historical Jewish districtof understand itscurrentsituation. particular history,ethno Describing thehistoricalbac 2.1. 6 Inner Erzsébetváros(onthete occupation ofpeopleslowlymoved fr started toreachitstoday’svi course ofthe20 18 ghettoisation

During th centurytheareawasanagriculturalland.Atlastdecadeof18 History

the

course

of oftheJewish District

Jews

th of century during

the

ting theirownhouses. twentieth th

and7 the -cultural values starting from thelate 19 6 , itwasonceathrivingpartofth

WW2. ew. Newhouseswereconstructed kground oftheJewishdistrict

2. rritory ofthecontemporary7

th century district.Eventhoughthearea areaduringthereignofEm Budapest islocated intheheart of the city,onthePest side. It

Theoretical Later ies inthecityand

om agriculturetomerchandising. the due

Only inthebeginningof19 area’s

to

its

6 physical image

ng family houses,whichwerebuiltina

framework allhadgardensaroundthem were andthey e night(intoday’sKirá was only startingfrom the 1860’scouldthey and

first

social

th linked peror Joseph,II.Until1840Jews e city.Untilthebeginningof district)played asignificant role of Budapest,byfocusingonits

decay got abadreputationduringthe

parallel tothestreetsand

to

th extreme it century isinevitable to

got

a th th negative century the district ly utca). Theirfirst

centurythe district anty ‐ Semitism

reputation. and

CEU eTD Collection

Jewish religion(Komoróczy, 1999). houses" allaroundthecity,sincealmost onefour side oftheMargaretBridge. Furthermore, therewerehundreds ofso called"yellowstar not theonlyoneinBudapest.Therewasanintern liquidated (ColeandSmith, 1995).Ithastobementioned thattheghettoin7 Andfinally,itwasliberatedbytheSovietarmy,countryside ofHungary. ratherthan stay herewere actuallyneverdeported toconcentration ca November 1944untilJanuary1945.Secondly,thema ghetto fordifferentreasons(Cole,2002).Firs During the times of theHolo the area,whichdetermined thefutureof predominantly entrepreneurs. During the WW2 theGhettowasestablished ontheterritory of the WW1districtwaspopulatedmostlyby Dohány street,Kazinczy streetandRumbach street ground floorwerebuiltinthis majority of 2-3floorhighbuildings withdecorated facades, courtyards andshopsonthe which alsoreachedthe Historical After theunificationofPest,BudaandÓbuda there werebigcityreconstructingefforts, synagogue turnedintoacommem After theGhetto was liberated by theSoviet Army, theareaaroundDohánystreet 2.1.1. memorials wereerectedimmedi

The

Jewish

District caust theghettoin7

period. Thethreemostremarkab during ately aftertheSecondWorld JewishDistrict.It orative spaceofth Socialism this urbanspaceinasignificant manner. 7

middle andlower classreligiousJews, tly, it operated only for threemonths from tly, itoperatedonlyfor th of the populations of Budapest wereof th ofthepopulationsBudapest ) werealsoconstructed inthisera. Before ational ghetto inÚjlipótváros, atthePest

started todevelopin arapidmanner. The th districtofBudapestwasanon-typical jority oftheJews e Jewishfate(Cole,2003).The first mps, unliketheones from the War. Eventhoughtherecould le synagoguesofBudapest(in who wereforcedto th districtwas CEU eTD Collection

District, itslevelcannot be compared to the the localJewsreceived emigrant visitors w Csizmady, KoszeghyandTomay, 2006).Event signs ofthewar,sinceregime didnot Jewish Districtwasstagnant (Rumbach streetsynagoguewasusedasast big synagogues,whichmiraculously survivedth nationalised allcompanies andthereligious lif Tomay, 2006).Thedevelopment ofthearea were occupiedbypoorpeople,oftentimes byRoma (Csanádi,Csizmady, Koszeghyand After theWW2many oftheorigin importance intheliberation. ideology mutedtheparticularJewishspeci This wasclearlyatop-downprocessofcomm the monuments clearlysuggests: of theHolocaust, andinstead they focused only around theDohánystreetsynagogue.However,they have beenmany locationsallaroundBudapest (translations byCole,2002;emphasi January, 1985. the SovietArmy,liberatorsofourhomeland surrounding theonlyghettoremaining "As aneternalreminder oftheda Another onefrom 1985: 1945." liberating Soviet Army oftheghettostoodhere.The "In theFascistperiodoneofgates during theSocialist decades.The historical buildingsbore the brokedowntheghettowallson18January al residentsdidnotreturnto contemporary situation.Privatecommemorations 8 ficity oftheplaceandemphasised itsown y fortyyearsago,whenthewalls hom theyleadthrough thehistoricalJewish payattentiontoth orehouse). Thedevelopmen e wasalsodiscouragedandevenbanned.The

hough there were Shoah commemorations and hough therewereShoahcommemorations stopped abruptly.TheSocialist government s bytheauthorofthesis) on theSovietliberators. , many of the memorials wereconstructed e war,werenotusedfor religiouspurposes in Europewerebrokendownby emoration, organised by the state, whose organisedbythestate,whose emoration, allfailedtoremember thelocalvictims . 18January,1845- thedistricts.Theirhouses eir renovation(Csanádi, As thetextofone t ofthehistorical CEU eTD Collection

the image ofthearea. in Englishforforeigntourists. The publicurban spaceisthuscommoditised inordertosell well ascourses inJewish culture and thelike for differentgroups(youngJewi offices inthestreetsaroundmain syna trips toIsrael.TheJewishcivilsocietyhasalso restaurants andfoodstoresaremushrooming inth the state.Therewerenewlyerected Dohány streetsynagogue,initiate their ownmemories. GraduallyasacredJewish spacewascreatedinthestreetsaround (Gitelman, 2001).LocalJews,aswelltheones Opening towardsinternationalvi area. and thegradualrenovationof however, the re-discovery of Jewishidentity,th street synagogue werelackingtheamenities of renovation duringtheKádárregime. Thehistoric condition. Thesynagoguesoftheareawerealldamaged duetotheirneglectandlackof The democratic changesfoundtheJewishDistrict ofBudapestinaverybadphysical 2.1.2. whichwasnotque celebrating theRedArmy, official commemorations wereorganisedbyth generally morenarrowframework ofdescribing were raresincemany survivorfamiliesdidnot

The

Jewish

District

after main synagogueledtotheslowemergence oftourisminthe sh boys,peoplerediscoveringthei d byreligiousorgani sitors wasalsoaffectedby

the monuments aroundthemain synagogue;kosher

fall gogue. Thereareschoolswh . A guidedtourisorganisedmany perday times stioned oropposedby 9

modernhousing.Starting from themid-1990’s of

"discovered" thisdistri e birth of thefirst Jewish cultural institutions e stateandwereperformed intheframe of talkabouttheirmemories andtherewasa al buildingsinthe one’s tragicmemories abouttheShoah.The

Socialism in emigration startedtotalkpubliclyabout e district,andtravel sations, thecivilsocietyaswellby

religious revivalinHungary streets aroundtheDohány the localJews. r Jewishoriginetc.),as ct andestablishedtheir agencies sp ere Hebrewistaught ecialise in CEU eTD Collection

identity isdiscussedlater inthisthesis). asliberat RedArmy recalled thememory ofthe Soviets. Intheanti-Sovietatmosphere oftheearly1990’s during thepreviousregime, whiletendedto canonised history.Theyemphasised theheroism of The memories thatpeople claimed torecall Western societies,especiallytheUn framework that reflectvalues oftolerance, „Americanization oftheHolocaust”,aprocess century anditisbecoming ameans ofgetting suppor that theShoah is the onlycommondenominator of in emigration (mainly intheUnitedStatesandIsrael)canidentifywith.Heproposes(2000) Finkelstein (2000)seesthisphenomenon aspart “memories” oftheparticularurban space,wh the BudapestJewishdistrict,providedthatdur memories, buttheycannotremember withoutindi (1993) proposedanotherterm, “collected memory”, becauseas very important onbothindividu with others, aretransmitted andconstructed th individual aswellcollectivememories (H recollecting happensin asocialcontext, Memory andrecollectionofmemoriesisne 2.2.

Reminding

and

Remembering al levelsandcommunityforidentification. Young ited Statestellsaboutitself. therefore ithasabigimpact onbothpeople’s

albwachs, 1980).Collectivememories areshared democracy andhuman rights, qualitiesthatthe 10 after the fall of Socialism allresembled the rough socialinteraction. Thesememories are ing thepasthalfcentury oftheHolocaustindustry,bywhichJews ich contradictedeachother dueto different change theirpositionabouttheroleof ver anindividualact.Bothrecodingand ors whosoonturnedinto of reshapingtheShoahhistoryintoa viduals. This isreflec certainfigures,whowe American Jewish identity inthe late20th t forIsrael.Cole(1999) addsthat there is thelocalJewi he claims, societiesdohave thereweredifferent ted nicelyincaseof dictators(thisdual re nottalkedabout sh community CEU eTD Collection

identity. Therefore themonuments haveacruc constant reminder ofthemembers ofthecommun role ofspacesandthemonument accepted and remembered butitisreconstruc about theidentificationsofits understanding commemorative practicesofacer invented, reinventedandreconstructedby ‘received’ bythepresent.Thepresentis‘hau that thegroupofpeopledecide present isconstructed (Assman, 1997)becausethe The waypasteventsarerepresentedandcomm organisations. present context thatthey experience, theim well. Thewalkingtours therefore, make the always haveasignificantimpact onthememory to theactualpast,sincecircumstances, and thepresent become inseparable. Thus,theeventsremembered areonlypartlyconnected influenced bysocialcontextofthetime of strongly relatedtothepresent.Inthiswa the pastoneneedsnarrativestructures,whicharederivedfrom aculturalcontextandare at beingobjective,andnon-biased,memories ar Both collectiveandcollected memories arediffe urban spaceofthecity). remembering of theindividuals (such asthe memory of theSovietarmy inrelation tothe members. Asitissuggested to remember indicatestheiriden s andbuildings thatrepresent certainpast events becomes a remembering (Bakhurst,1990)bywhich,thepast thepresent”(Assman, 1997,pp.9).Thus,by among whichtheeventisrecalledandnarrated y, memory (thetime remembered) isalways 11 ted throughbothnarrationandbuildform. The posed andnarratedmemories ofthetourist visitors torecall/creat ial roleincollective memories. Communities e oftenpassionate.Furthermore, toremember nted’ bythepastandismodelled, rent from history because while history aims ity about theircollectivememories andtheir emorated isaclearindicationofhowthe emorated tain communityoneca and willin allcases reflectthepresent as events and thepeople(theselectedheroes) above,thepastisnotonly tity. “Thepastisnotsimply e thepastthrough the n alsogetinsights CEU eTD Collection

consequences, perceiving theenvironment andbe with qualitiessuchasliving they areselectiveabout theirreception. Inthe community ofmemory howevertheydonotfully The secondexplanationwhythe reality. identification isgenerated. Themyth thatthey creating anostalgicspherewiththewalkingtours,anemotional bondandaform of envisaged aspositiveandstab It createsabondbetweentheideal Firstly, nostalgiatothehomeland ofone’sances of specialcommunities of memory. the spaceand its imposed memories isinfluenc only throughacertainroute,butalso particular eventsandpeopleth linking memory to specificplaces, definingtheJe key locations in the city. Thewalking toursem The emergence ofmemory tourism canbelinked 2.3. memory tourism, theircaseisspecialfornumerous reasons. Budapest can partlybe considered communities referring totheircommon past,fate,ancestors, of memory areformed andar

Alert walking

in

the ile, wherethe daily life flows

ey areverypowerful..Walking e beingtiedtogetherbycomme urban in thepresentwithoutpast, ised life of one’s parentsandth ised lifeofone’s participating tourists

space 12 post-modern worldtouristscanbecharacterised imposedmemories. Howthetouristsconsume aims andthe like.ThewalkingtoursofJewish

ed bythesocial context, whichtheformation are toldbecomes more realthan the historic tors isoneofthesequalities(Mitchell,1998). phasise collective memories ofallJews.By ing ofleisure(Bauman, 1996).Incontrast to wish DistrictofBudapest, beingselectiveto to therediscoveryofJewishnessanditspast of memory howeversince theyare part of identify themselves withtheevents and ofthewalkingtoursform kindof a in aharmonicmanner. Thus,by tours are“alertwalkings”not talking tostrangerswithout morative practices andsites e lifetheylived.Itisalways CEU eTD Collection

(Urry, 1990),whichisinterested of itsrecommended andattachedvalu qualities described moredetailedintheanalysis,people creation, buttheyarelookedatandperceived. (Urry, 1990).Buildingsandotherartefactsar In themodern contexttheurbanscenerywith as Benjamin (1973)callsit,itisaninst to goawayfrom theordinaryandeveryday experience became completely commoditised, or and resultsinconstanttemporal andspatialos “worthwhile” space, moving togeographically a place andlonging formoreventures determine thei (Rojek, 1993),whosedissatisfactio exists besides it.Thedesire forcontrast is caused bydissatisfactionwithth As theflâneurandpost-modern person,thetourist isalsorestless. Thisrestlessness is recorded (Urry,1990)andwant photographs (Urry,1990).Theaimof Furthermore, contemporary touristsreplace long-term lastingnetworksof any kind,aswelltasksandobligations. relations, tourist usuallyhasaroutetocomplete andis space, nortotime andfloatsinthe masses with tourists hasaplaceofdepartur is always awayfrom home butsimultaneously the “flâneur”(Benjamin, 1973),whoenjoysbeing torecordtheothers. e andacleardestination.While in symbols (signs)andrecolle e presenceandbythestrongur n withpresent experiences, wanting toescape to abetter ance of“phantasmagoria ofcapitalism”. touristsisnevertostayinvisible. the most visiblewiththepost-modern tourists 13 tiedtotime Theyarebothavoiding schedules. cillation (Rojek,1993).Fu In thecaseofDohá e nolongerused,asitwasintheirtime of the roleofgaze oftheflâneur with out cleardestinationand time constraints, the sites no longergotopraybuttheyvisititbecause es. Sitesareconsumed bythe“touristgaze” feels athome at all places, thepost-modern nd culturallydistant placesbecomeshectic on theroadandhavingahome everywhere, r leisure activities. Their escapetoamore gradually turns intoaplacewith ctions. Thesymbols helpsthe the flâneurisneithertiedto ge tofindsomething that ny streetsynagogue,as rthermore, theirurge They wanttobe sights

CEU eTD Collection

community of memory tightlyconnected tothe memories andproliferatememories oftheirance postmodern andtransnationalt the walkingtourthereforealsoyieldssimilar real one(Benjamin, 1973)andtheylosethesens with apictureoftheDohányst small metal versionof theEiffel towerorinthe mechanical reproductionsofthe mystical placeswheretheirances the EiffelTower,StatueofLibertyandinth recommended byothersandthatamoderntouristhastoseeatleastonceinlifetime (suchas locals, norindiscovering thingsfor themselves. Theirprimary goalisto seethesites thatare the participants of middle classmass tourism areneither interested inthe everydaylife of the discovering newthings,likeitwasinthecase television showsandmovies contemporary tourist experiencesareledby experiences andaims atdiscoveringnewforms ofthecollective(Voase,2007), Even thoughthecontemporarypost-modern tourists their direct identification isnot linked to memory of thelostand idealised world of th while onthe surfacethe touristsbecome memb cut referencetoagiven geographical spacethus tourists in orientation in space andrecollecti ourism indicate,eventhoughth reet synagogue).Forthem there (in contrastto theflâneur, original objects(Benjamin, 1973)as tors lived). Furthermore, theyareasmuchattracted tothe thesesitesbutisonlyhelpedbythem. on of memories,on of furthermor 14 eir ancestors andtheev representations,portrayedinguidebooks, qualities. Astheabovedescribedfeaturesof of theflâneur[Rojek,1993]).Paradoxically, e ofsearchingfortheunique.Participatingin stors, theydonotfullybecome members ofa e caseofthe Jewishdistrict ofBudapestthe context ofBudapestJewishdistrictat-shirt they are regularandpredictable. Therefore, ers ofaparticularcommunity ofJewish Budapest JewishDistri seemingly wanttoproliferateindividual whowasledbytheurgeof e visitorsreproducepersonal production isasgoodthe totherealones(e.g. ents of the Holocaust, e, they have aclear- ct butratherofa CEU eTD Collection

simultaneously bydefiningthepastthey alsodefinethepresent.Thesharedmemories and themselves havethepowerofcreating significant eventthathadanimpact onth which peopleremember thepastandasiden Monuments areimportant elements ofnarration, simultaneously affects the identification through them eventhoughthere onlyselectedissuesandpeople.Pastisproducedreproduced commemorating original location(asdiscussed laterinthisthes (in thiscase therescue ofpeopleduringtheShoah)wereraisedfrom itstime-frame and memories, approvedbythestateandlocalJewi and international)isnotlinkedorganically people toremember (beingreminded of)eventsof The monuments intheJewishDistricthavea real environments the ofmemory, “lieux demémoire” the urgetotalkmuch aboutthememories beca completely by theeffortofwriti presented with.InNora’saccount(1996)the Much researchhasbeendoneaboutthememories 2.4. through thenarrationofmemories a collective of contemporary Jewslivinginfreedom anddemocracy, whichisconstituted

Representations (sitesofmemory) havebeencreated

of

the ng “realhistoricalac “milieu demémoire

past nd historiesofselectedtype. is nohistoricalcontinuity processes ofthecommunityaswell.

identities (Berger and Luckmann 1980) and identities (BergerandLuckmann 15 e lifeofacommunity. Thus,monuments in anymore (thememories arethecanonised use wedonothavemuch ofitleft.Therefore, tification points of groups byrepresenting a tification pointsofgroups is) andareplacedinaspacethatis aimed at special position:theywereconstructedfor since theyserveassitesofmemory through “real memories” havebeenalmost erased thepasttowhichits community (bothlocal ofpeopleandaboutth sh Organisations). The remembered events counts” ofthepasteventsandweneed ” (Nora,1996). since wealmostentirelylackthe inthemonuments andthe e historiestheyare CEU eTD Collection

state, thechurch,historians, andvariouscivic The characteristics ofthememorials areshaped urban spaceisperceived 1999). Sinceoneoftheghettoswasonterritory, wherethe walkingtourleadspeople,this bodies, whicharemissing here,areallusedassoci experiences ofdangerandloss, architecture hasan intense emo cult ofdeath(Verdery,1999),si perished duringtheShoahandwereneverburied remember. Bylistingnames themonuments symbolically replaceth present aswell.Firstly,theyguidepeoplein Budapest JewishDistrictdonotonlyrepresent builders/initiators wanted toemphasise. Thus, themonuments of theHolocaustin past andthepresent,sincemonument what makes themonuments important. Furthermor that issignificant(Brockmeier, 2002).Howthepast narration isalwaysperformative anditisnever (narrative) isneededforwhichaculturalrepertoirenecessaryreadingitscodes. The the pastisintegratedinto show how Therefore, monuments neverexis whereonecanalwaysturn. stability, anidentificationpoint, Edwards (1990)noted,thesesites Jewish district of Budapest)canconstitute topeople’s modern identities. AsMiddletonand identical images ofthe past, as aplacewherevictims areburiedsymbolically. represented inamonument or tional power-itmakes peoplef qualities thatare nce inaFoucaultiansenseofpoliticsemotions t inthemselves. Theyarenot symbolically risea evaluating thepastbyshowingwhatandhowto present (Brockmeier, 2002).Aninterpretation 16 movements butalsobyintermediaries, suchas the pastevent butthecurrentnarrating event the pastbuttheyveryconsciouslyshape bytheirinitiatorsand creators, such asthe in cemeteries. Thiscreates averypowerful being politicised(S represents certain valueswhich the e, thereisaconstant al agentsinpoliticalinteraction.(Verdery, bove thechaosofdaily isactivatedandbui in acertainspace (such as the only aboutthehistory,butthey eel fearandgrief,whichare vašek, 2006).Thedead e bodyofthose,who dialoguebetweenthe lt intothepresentis lifeandrepresent , memorial CEU eTD Collection

the 1990sandearly2000(Gitelman, 2001). serving asan additional factor for (re-) identification in the times of thereligious revival of Next totheabovementioned things,itmight contemporary Jewishquarteristheemphasisofapa reading and theyserveintermed observed attheBudapestJewishDistrict,wher emphasising collective memories leadstosocialcohesion(Durkheim, 1915).Thiscanbe The pastwasusedforthesakeofpresent. AccordingtothetheoryofDurkheim, regret wasveryprevalent (Cole,2002) thecrea the media. In thepost-socialist setting ofH iary toolsofsocialcohesio ungary, wherethepoliticsofvictimization and 17 tion ofthisspacehadsocialfunctionsaswell. haveaneffectamong theHungarianJews, e monuments are integratedinto aspecific rticular historyinslig n. Themain philosophyofthe htly idealisedsense. CEU eTD Collection

urban areathattheydefine fortouristicpur product. Ifocused ontheroutes Secondly, Iinvestigated whatistheurban spaceth under theyselltheareaaroundDohány streetsynagogue. way theyidentify andgiveidentity tothelandscape. Ialso didacomparisonof thename very important becauseitdefinestheir approach Firstly, Ilookedattheterms, howthetouropera commercial material. space isutilised bytourism andhowtourism shapesitsmemory. interviews complement eachother andprovi The firstandthesecondpartofresearch, studied urban space,such asdevelopers ofthewa material. Secondly, Iconductedinterviewswith the main actorswhointerpretandshapethe attracting visitorsinto theJewishDistrictof Firstly, Iconductedanalysisof For thepurposeofdatacollectionandanalysis agencies together withtheiradvertisements. I posters. Furthermore, Ialsodidinvestigationofonlinesources,suchaswebsitesthe Budapest. The analysisinvolvedst seven touroperatorsinBudapest,whichoffertoursthehi During thefirstphaseofresearchIconducte 3.1

Analysis

of

the

commercial thatthewalkingtoursfoll the commercial material that udy ofprintedcommercials, suchasleaflets,brochuresand 3.

Methodology material poses astheJewish Di de agoodbasisforunderstandinghowtheurban namely the studyofcommercialmaterial andthe Budapest.Ianalysedboth printe 18 ofcommoditising thegivenareaand alsothe focused my attentionon d analysisofthecommercialmaterial ofthe I utilised two different typesofmethods. Iutilisedtwodifferent lking tours, thetour guides andthe tourists. at theindividual actorsuseasacommercial tors label thestudiedurbanspace. Thisis

ow andontheboundariesof strict ofBudapest. the travelagenciesusefor storical Jewishdistrictof fouraspectsofthe d andon-line CEU eTD Collection

the quotesaredirectly Since thetours areofferedforfo way theactorsapproachareaandmethods language theyuse.Thesenarrativestructures are veryimportant inordertounderstandthe Finally, I analysed the narratives of selli kind ofmessage theytransmit byshowingtheseimages. I analysedwhattheyconsidered as themain ch commercial materials and analysed whatthemain Thirdly, Ilookedatthevisualre also ensuredthatneither theirname, northena promised acopyofthefinalreport. Becauseof asked whethertheyallowpublishingwhat extensive notesduringthe talks.Theinterview semi-structured andwereconductedface-to-f The researchwasconductedinAprilandMa and theWallenberg Memorial Park. participating inthewalkingtours,andwanderingareaofDohánystreetsynagogue different agencies.Furthermore, Iengaged interviews withdevelopers of thetour(manag workings andeffectsoftourism inthispa aim of theinterviews withtheactors of theJewi The secondpartofmy ethnographicfieldwork 3.2

Interviews

and takenfrom them.

field

observations reign visitorsandthecommercial materials are in English, presentations oftheJewishdi ng theurbanspaceto 19 rticular location.Idideightsemi-structured ace. Norecordingwasdone;howeverItook ees wereensuredofth y 2008inBudapest. Alltheinterviewswere

me oftheircompany beopenly statedin will ers oftheagencies) an in many informal chatswiththe tourists sh Districtwastogetabetteroverviewofthe confidentialbusinessinformation theywere aracteristic of thepart consists ofsemi-structured interviews.The places arethatthearea said and ifthey asked forit,theywere how theyutiliseitforcommercial profit. strict ofBudapestinthese eir anonymity andwere urists bystudyingthe icular spaceandwhat d withtourguidesof isrepresented with. CEU eTD Collection

about theeffect ofImre Kertész’s movie Schindler’s list wasfilmed thaninther findings about Cracow, wheretourists aremore memory tourism ortheyarejust their aim of walkingis, morespecifically whether itis apilgrimage forthem, identitysearch, whether theyhavegenealogyinCentralEaster are religiousJews,Shoahsu interested in wherethe visitors usually come interviews focusedontheconsumption oftheurbanspaceanditsactors,tourists.Iwas issues/artefacts. Inaddition,Iwant focusing onthesourceofknowledgeabout monuments wereincluded.Furthermore,Iaske route thetourfollowsandreasonswhy job. Thesecondpartoftheinterviewswasaboutth of origin,religiousaffiliati involved askinggeneralinformati The main topics oftheinterv translations oftheauthor. usually inEnglish andinoneparticularcase (discussed laterindetails)we the thesis. Theinterviews withthemanagers of 7 whether therehavebeen anincreasednumbe novel, with the same title. the samewith novel, title. isafilm his to Budapest. There on his based cominghometown, back of the difficulties and the Shoah during camps. Inthe year 2002 he won the No

Imre Kertész (1929, Budapest ‐ ), on, function atthe workplaceand iews (seeAppendix1,2and3forth re conductedinHungarian.Convers

is a Hungarian Jewish author, who as seekingleisureintheregion bel Prize in Literature for Literature for Prizein his bel book on abouttheinterviewee,involvi 7 ed toknowwhattheaim ofthe rvivors (first,secondorth Nobelprize-winningbook,the from, howoldtheyareonaverage,whether r ofvisitorssince thebookbecame well-known 20 Dutch.Thequotesinthe this exactpathwassetupandwhythose d questionsaboutthenarrationofspace, eal historicalsites,Ialsoformed aquestion n Europe.Furthermore, Iwascuriouswhat thetouragenciesand withthetour guides district andthespec interested intheplaces where Spielberg’s e walkingtouritself.I duration and reasonfordoing the . Keepinginmind Cole’s(2002) Fateless a child was deported to concentration was concentration a child to deported ird generationsurvivors)and e completelistofquestions) ations withthetouristswere tour is.Thethirdpartofthe ng his/herage,sex,country Fateless. Iwasinterested , which describeslife his ial emphasis onexact text arethereforethe was interestedinthe CEU eTD Collection

for generalising. specific memory. narrated memory andhistoryaswellthelinks tourism thearea anditsnarratives. Inthisway, understood thedemand sideofthephenome (identification, creationofnos shaped bythe narrativesoftheguidesandhowitsmemories areutilisedforspecificpurposes interviewing thetour operatorsandguides overview of theofferedtoursandofdiffer While thefirst partoftheresearchabout was basedonit. and whethertouristsareinterestedspecifically 8

Due to time restraints the sample that is used in this research is small and might not be representative enough enough berepresentative might not issmall and this research in isused that sample the to time restraints Due

talgia andthelike).Furthe I acquired thorough knowledgeofhowthespaceis the commercialmaterial providedme withan 21

non and I could experience how consumes non andIcouldexperiencehowconsumes in issueslinkedtothebookandfilm that thataremade betweenthe urbanspaceanda I wascapableoffollowingthestructures of ent definitionsofthe rmore, bytalkingtotourists Jewish district,by 8 I CEU eTD Collection

shaping touristically theJewi present my findingsfrom thefieldobservations provide analysisofthecommercialmaterial of space byopeningitforcommercial profit.Forunderstanding thiscomplexphenomenon, I theHungarianHolocaust culture andcommemorating As mentioned previously,themain aim ofthis differently. Eventhoughthewalkingtoursare seven touragenciesadvertisetheir“product” operators in Budapestwhichofferwalkingtours The focusofmy analysiswas the printed a 4.1.1 4.1 “the tourintheoldJewish through theinternettoindividua which isaterm byKomoroczy(1999).Finally,one District. Onetour operator offers thewalkto calls theirwalkingtourasaoftheJewish visitors onlyintoaverysmall areaaroundtheDohánystreetsynagogue.Oneofagencies of theagenciescalland district ofthecontemporary Budapest,their

Analysis Naming

of

the

the

tours

commercial sell theirtour as“Jewish Budapest”de Quarter inJewishBudapest”

sh DistrictofBudapest. l Jewishtouristsfrom allaroundtheworld, callsthewalk

4. material Analysis use of terminology aboutthisspacediffers.Two 22 Quarter, andanotheroneasatouroftheJewish nd online commercial mate all focusingonasmall segment oftheinner7 research is analysing how changesinmemory and differentiateitfrom othersbycallingit “the old-newJewishDi in theurban spaceoftheJewishdistrict. The thetouroperatorsof

oftheagencies,whichofferskoshertours and interviewswiththemain actors of

haveaffectedtheutilisationofurban (Totally JewishTravel). spite thefact that they leadthe Budapestandthen strict ofBudapest”, rial ofseventour th

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4.1.2 concept foraverysmall space,andassuch,makes theterm “JewishBudapest”ametonymy it wouldbeimpossible towalktheentirecityin though oneofthetours,whichisofferedas As theexamplesshow,thereisnoconsensusaboutth 9 Or triangle”, which isdefinedbythreesynagoguesinthearea).Forexample: the spaceinterms ofitsmonuments andshapes link theareatocontemporary act contradicting features.Tourism do defined byitshistoryandethno historical JewishdistrictofBudapest(K One might wonderwhatistheexactspacethatth of thespacearoundDohánystreetsynagogue.

Metonymy Urban unique athmosphere ofthe former ( ontheterritory Ghetto.” number street -andagreat fascinatingoldbuildings. ofExperiencethe Király mikvah, thefamous Courtyard, Gozsdu the oncemost important streetofPest– Center,the stroll welearnabouttheHall, theJewishCommunity Goldmark [...]. streetsynagogues RumbachTriangle: theDohány, andKazinczy Along the Avenue, WorldHeritages “Walk thepathofhistory of theJewishQuarterinenvirons ofAndrássy Tour Budapest,2008-09,brochure) of theorthodoxtemple.[...]” the orthodoxcentre,thereisapossibilityfor alunchinkosherrestaurantandvisit the HolocaustMemorialsurroundings and ofsynagogue theworld, JewishMuseum visit theDohány Budapest–we “Jewish Tours Ltd.,VisittheJewishQuarte

is

used

space

mostly

defined

in

literature.

by ive Jewish communities and synagogues.Instead, itdefines

It -cultural characteristics, thecontemporary space displays ite. [...] Discover the representatives of the Jewish oftheJewish ite. [...]therepresentatives Discover es notdefineitsboundariesinterms ofstreets,nordoesit

is ( tourism In: EUrama sightseeingtours,SightseeingCity

a trope, omoroczy, 1999)thathad r ofBudapestbrochure,2007)

in “Jewish Budapest”(ittakesonlythreehoursand 23

which itaroundtheirlocation(seetheterm“Jewish Street Synagogue, the second largest StreetSynagogue,the secondlargest thisshortperiod)uses (interior visit), the Jewish Cemetery, (interiorvisit),theJewishCemetery, ofthe Synagogue. Thetourends at

e walkingtoursutilise. a

certain e name of this particularspace.Even

entity In: HiddenTreasure

is

used clear boundariesandwas

to thisnicelysounding

represent Incontrasttothe a

bigger

unit. 9

CEU eTD Collection

WW2 Ghettos). (though partsofthehistoricalJewish Ghetto, whichinBudapestwasnotidenticalwith pointing toitslocationincleargeographicalterms. defining itslocation.Whileitreferstothefact thatitisclosetoAndrássyAvenue,misses Even thoughthesecondexample consumes amu orthodox temple;thesecondquotedtour area aroundtheDohánystreetsynagogue andexpands theJewishspaceonlyslightly, tothe additionally theorthodoxcentre.Whileinfirs suggests that“JewishBudapest Furthermore, there aremany inte boundaries remain vagueanditsspaceisnotde area oftheJewishDistricthowevertheydonotdefineitclearlyingeographicalterms. Its From theabovetwoexamplesit Figure

1:

The

Jewish

Triangle ” isaroundthesynagogueatD is visiblethat rpretations of wherethe Jewish districtwerealsoincluded

of operator coversalargerarea. Budapest 24 the touristagenciesuti

by fined byitsstreetsbut byitsmonuments. Furthermore, itrefers totheconcept of the t quotedcaseitrestrict thehistoricalJewish

Komoróczy ch biggerspace,itis et

al. in theterritory

ohány streetandthereis (1999, District ofBudapestis.It lise theconceptand

pp.105) district ofBudapest s itselftothegated alsouncertainin

of one of the of onethe CEU eTD Collection

can bealsonoticedinth The lackofconsensusaboutwhattheJewishdist street synagoguesfrom “pic the not partoftheJewishDistrict.Furthermore, According totheirperc Figure

2: Quarter.” (In: CITYRAMA Sightseeing Sightseeing CITYRAMA Quarter.” (In: emphasis from thebrochure). and theCemetery (interior visits). Nextweshow theyou famous Jewish Ghetto Capital andthe Monumentsmostof theHungarian the Jewish important “During thetourweshow

Map

of the

Jewish and visit the Dohány Street andvisitthe Dohány eption, theDohánystreetsynagoguew world’s second largestSynagogue world’s second e leaflet of CITYRAMA. e leafletofCITYRAMA.

Distrcit in the inthe ture” oftheJewishDistrict.

(Map Jewish Garden Jewish

author is

taken

of itexcludesboththeRumbach andtheKazinczy

from 25

the

thesis) Tours, Jewish Budapest, brochure; Tours, JewishBudapest, Synagogue the . [...] The tour ends in the Jewish [...]. ThetourendsintheJewish rict ofBudapestisan

website Tree ofLife, Temple ofHeroes

. Wewalkthrough theformer

andthe www.mymap.hu ith thememorials isstrikingly Jewish Museum d whereitislocated

,comments

by

the

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(Benjamin, 1973)aswellinth enough thesesymbols reappearin tourist gazebyplacingtheserepresentationsinto it alsohastocontainasignofcommemoration. JewishDistrictithastobe of theBudapest be usedasmile-stones intheirtravelogue.These satisfies theneedsof “touri Showing thesetwocharacteristicar synagogue butatitscloseproximity they Holocaust memorial, ithasastrongmessage to commercial materials istheTreeoflifewith very fewcasescanthe observerfind aninterior Anothertypicalpicture image ofit. inthe size andarchitecturalfe is locatedattheedgeofhistoricalJewish Budapest JewishdistricttheD its product, theurbanspacecanprovideimporta image areaastheverbaldescriptionof ofthe Jewish district intheprinted material aswell onlineisas important feature inselling the attracting visitorsandassuch,making acomme Representing acertainmonument orsiteisvery 4.1.3.

Visual

representation atures. UsuallytheSynagogueissh ohány streetsynagogueisdisp st gaze”(Urry,1990).Touristsn e photographsbythetourists.

of mostcasesinthegadgets tefacts oftheJewishDistrict

the can commemorate theHolocaustaswell.

touristic asynagogue,andduetoitslinktheHolocaust, the Synagogue in the background. Since it is a theSynagogueinbackground.Sinceitisa 26 district, itisaveryimpressive building withits it. Analysingwhatatouroperatorshowsabout important intourism sinceithasthepowerof Thetourist agenciesserve theneeds ofthe symbols areusuallypredic theircommercialmaterial andinterestingly thevisitors:theycannotonlyvisit rcial profit. Visualrepresentation of the nt information. Incaseofthetouristic

Jewish owed from outside andonlyina layed most frequently.Thoughit

District eed asetofsymbols thatcan serves aspecificreason:it sold inthetouristicspace

table: thusincase CEU eTD Collection

contemporary touristexperience isledbytheurgeofseeing repr particular urbanspacebut also shows theneeds how theproductisnarrateddoesnotonlyreflect th purpose: toselltheirproduct.Th The brochuresandleafletsas wellastheon 4.1.4. (Middleton andDerek,1990). artefacts, thus opening thespace for historic in advertised withsmiling couples,beautifulwo construction ofthespaceexcludescontemporary lif The emphasis isnotonitsliveliness andreligious activity but onitsarchitectural beauty. The Jews, nortourists.Intheinteriorimages of Interestingly, innoneoftheforms ofcommerc Figure agency)

3:

Tourist

Common

representations ­ oriented

narration

of

the erefore, thewayhowcommercial material isshapedand

Jewish

of

District

theSynagogueonecannoticeonlyempty space. the 27 line commercial material haveoneparticular men andthelike)focusesonlyonmere

terpretations andsymbolic return to thepast (Pictures urban ial material arepeople and expectationsofthe tourists. Since the e attitudeofthetouroperatorstowards the e (incontrast withothertours,which are

taken space

from

esentations that are portrayed portrayed are that esentations

the

website visible, neitherlocal

of

EUrama

travel

CEU eTD Collection

Venice this conceptholds true,itisquitequesti “the ancient GhettoofBudapest Thirdly, inordertoattract tourists, suchterm commercial material. internationally recognisedfigureofJudaism bornin representations. NotonlyImre KertészbutThe BudapestJewishDistrictisnotcommercialised throug of Kafka,the which isassociatedwiththemovie aboutSchindlerorPrague, whichisa international levelbutremained there wasahypeofinterest commercial materials neithertohisnovel,nor remembers howhesurvivedtheShoahasate Secondly, eventhoughImre Kertészre “taste specialJewishdishes” andthe like. “experience theuniqueatmosphere”, “truly mys in theworld.Inordertocreatesenseof exclusivity, suchexpressionsareusedas synagogue isnotmentioned byitsname butby Firstly, thefocusisonuniquenessofgi qualities but itistransformed bythe“tourist gaze” anditislooke District asasitebutrather touristic siteisnarrated.Takingtheargument of once inalifetime. Thisisverywellreflected in to seethesights thatarerecommended byothers in guidebooks,televisionshowsandmovies (R asitesfortourists,sinceitis in Hungaryrightaf a “local”culturalproduc ”. Ithastobenotedhowever ceived NobelPrizeforhisbook 28 s are applied asthe“ancientJewishGhetto” ors enage boy,therearenoreferencesmade inthe onable inthe caseofB ojek, 1993),theprimary goalofthevisitorsis odor Herzl,founderofpoliticalZionism, and ven territory.Forexample, theDohánystreet thewayJewishdistrictofBudapest,asa its qualities,asthesecondlargestsynagogue Urry(1990),onecannoteventalkaboutthe and thatamoderntouristhastosee atleast tical andstorytellingco thefilmbasedonit. thedistrict isalsonot excluded from the ter hissuccess,itdidnotspreadto t. Therefore,inc nolongerusedinitsoriginal d atandvisited. that whileinthecontext of udapest. Giventhefact Fateless Despite thefactthat h literaryorvisual dvertised asthecity rner ofBudapest”, ontrast toCracow, , inwhichhe CEU eTD Collection

the secondhalfof19 (Komoroczy, 1999),onecanhardlya that Jews werenotallowed tosettleinthe city untilaslatethe end of the18 In ordertounderstandhowtheJe 4.2. existing memory frames itwas important narrative structuresutilises andinsome caseseventransform the canonisedhistoryand memory. with members living farawayfromeachother, certain group of international visitors, it shared with thelocals(sincetheyusuallydonot history theyspread.Ifthet knowledge thateventhelocalpeopledonot Quarter ofBudapestbrochure,2007),whichev promise “togiveinsightknowledge”(In:Hi can experiencetheoldendaysatmosphere, where Finally, the leaflets and onlinematerials of cer representation ofthe“ghetto”,whileitneglec of historicreality.Asthisexample indica the senseitexistedinmedievalVenicewith concepts cannotbeequatedinanycase.Therefor e, bymerging theconcepts ghettos ofBudapestwasonthete since inBudapestitneverwasacompletely district cannot becalled “Ghetto” inthesame

Analysis

of

the

interviews th century.Furthermore, theterritorywhereJewslivedin7 our hasinsightknowledgeaboutth wish districtofBudapestis rritory ofthe historical Jewi ttach “ancient”totheirhistoric

and has thepowerofcreatingamnemonic community,

field tes, the “tourist gaze”(Urry,1999)createsa ts thedifferencesbetweenconcepts. 29 knowitisquestionablewhosememory and sense that itwas inVenice inmedieval times, Jewishsettlement. ThoughoneoftheNazi tain agents offer a walking tour, where people dden TreasureToursLtd.,VisittheJewish to conductinterviews with thelocaland en localsdonotknow.However,bysharing Nazi terminology resultsinaslightdistortion

there isahiddentreasu observations participate inthetours)butonly witha but alllinkedtoaspecialsocialsiteof shapedbytourism andhowits e spacewhichis sh District,thetwo“ghetto”

al district,thatevolvedin re. Inaddition,they ofthe‘ghetto’in notcommonly th century th

CEU eTD Collection

historic realities,andfinallyonmemory frames. walking tours. Ifocus on the main monuments, and totheirtourists.InthenextpartIdescri terms ofthedifferentagencies andtheircharacte international creators ofthespace.Infollo 10 American press.TheyhadonlyAmericanclient operator wasthefirsttorecognisethisinterest coming from overseastoseetheJewishartefact After thefall of the Kádár-regime my informants these walkshadtobe ledinsecrecy. religion wasnotsupportedduring tour, theywere usuallyledbylocalfamily me in theplacewheretheyparent They wereusuallyindividualvis Jewish DistrictofBudapestduringSocialism, 1990’s orrightafterthe year2000. Eventhou the JewishDistrict.Theywereallestablishe I conductedinterviewswithsevenofthemain touroperatorsof 4.2.1.1. 4.2.1The those

Kádár years.

regime ‐

The actors tour a period

operators

between

1956 s andgrandparentshadcome from itors from theUnitedStatesandCanada,whowereinterested

and the Socialistregime, accordingtothetestimony ofone 10 there was a gradual increase increase wasagradual there

1988,

named 30 d after1989,usuallyinthesecondhalfof there werenoorganisedtoursofferedforthem. mbers orbyacquaintances.Giventhefactthat be andanalyse thenarrati wing partIfirstexamine theinterviews, in s ofBudapest.ChosenTour, aHungariantour and startedtoadvertiseitstoursinNorthern on theheroism, onreligi gh therewerepeoplevisiting thehistorical ele. InBudapestthe ristics before turning to thetours themselves

after

János Kádár, Budapest,organisingwalksin

. Sincetherewasnoofficial the in thenumber ofvisitors

state first agencythatbegun

secretary ve structuresofthe ous specificities, on

of

Hungary

in

CEU eTD Collection

The commonfeatureof alltheofferedwalks is tourists havetheoptionofchoos German, French,Italian, Spanis tohaveitin these toursareledinEnglish,althoughsome operatorsofferthepossibility aspects oftourism initsspace. Synagogue andthebuildingcomple Budapest JewishReligiousCommunitywa were primarily focusedontheinner7 their generaltoursofBudapest synagogue localtouroperatorsdiscoveredabusi Simultaneously withtheincreas around theSynagogue. very expensive,theysooncut participating intheirtours,astheSynagogue concert oftheBudapestKlezmer However, Band. tours, whichinvolvedthevisitofDohányst offering tourstotheJewishDi the cityfrom themid-1990’s onse In thecontextofpost-socialistBudapestand 4.2.1.2. Park andtheMemorial Treeanditends inthe visit totheDohánystreetS District anddonotexceeditsgeographicalboundaries.Thestandard

The walking

tour ynagogue, theHeroes’GardenCemetery, theRaoulWallenberg strict wastheHungariaKoncert their programme and offeredonlywalkingtheir programme tours to the space h orHebrew.Nexttochoosingamong differentagencies,the ing differenttypesoftours. they started toofferspecial e invisitorsandtherenova x aroundit,furthermore itgotth veral walkingtourswereoffe th district. The Cultural and Tourist Centre of the district.TheCulturalandTouristCentreofthe 31 wasnotrenovatedandtheklezmer bandwas s setup,which became theownerof Jewish Museum. However, visitorscanchoose Jewish Museum.However, reet synagogueandtheJewishMuseum witha increased interestfortheJewishmemories of ness opportunityintheJe therewereonlylimited numbers oftourists thatthey focusonthespaceofinner7 “Jewish Budapest”tours,which Kft in1996.Theylinkedtheir tion of theDohánystreet red to visitors. Almost all red tovisitors.Almost all toursinclude e rightofcontrollingall wish space.Nextto an interior th

CEU eTD Collection

Tree anditscreation.The storyofWallenberg from 2000to5000.IntheRaoulWallenbergParkth of peoplewhowereburiedthere,sinceindiffe mentioning Interestingly,ther oftheHolocaust. Then thetourcontinues withawalktoth primarily on itsarchitecturalch their ownstoriesthereisagroup-feelingcreated.Ageneral get into closer relationship withthe visitors, en been toasynagoguebefore.Accordingoneofmy thispartallowstheguideto informants A standardtourstartswithas meal atakosherrestaurantrightnext walks astop isusually made attheCarlLutzmemorial and thetours endwithan optional framed aroundthesethreesynagogues,whicharelocatedinne the spacebetweenDohány,Rumbach the same sites andmonuments. They usuallywalk the nearbystreets.Theroutes extensions, suchasvisittoRumbach andKazi 11 focusing onartefacts,ritualsandinthe Hertz oftengoesunnoticed.Thevisitorsgetan new guideistobemet afterwalkingthestairs tour follows withavisit tothe JewishMuseum 1944 forces problems

Raoul

and

and

Wallenberg

issued in

was

1947.

taken

thousands

However,

‐ (1912

to

Moscow.

of ?),

the

protective

Swedish

circumstances

According

are setupbyindividualagencies, king wherethe visitors come fr aracteristics, onitsreligious as

diplomat

documents totheKazinczystreetsynagogue.

to andKazinczystreetsynagogues.Therefore, therouteis last roomontheHungarian

official of

in

his

Hungary

for

captivity 32 Soviet rent toursadifferent number isquoted,ranging

, thememorial plaqueinthename ofTheodor nczy streetsynagoguesan gage them inthetour and bymaking them tell e Heroes’GardenCemetery,with thefirst Jewish e seems tobenoconsensusaboutthenumber 11 butwithanotherguid overviewofJewishlifeattheexhibition, istoldand hisheroism isarticulated.The the territoryofJewi

in statements and

e main emphasis ispaidtotheMemorial

times families.

death

of

the He

he are om andwhether theyhaveever pects andhistoricalimportance. tour intheSynagoguefocuses

ighbouring streets.Duringthe was however theytendtofocuson Shoah. died

highly Holocaust.

arrested

in

He prison debated. e. However,sincethe

arrived d a walk in some of d awalkinsome of sh triangle,whichis

in

due

1945

to to

Hungary by heart

Soviet

in

CEU eTD Collection

guides ofsome oftheagenciesarenotexclusiv It isimportant tonote who th 13 12 Budapest orHungarybuttheentireregion.They Therefore, theyhavegenealogyinCentralEa Holocaust survivors who setouttovisit the placewheretheirancestors came from Jews according to most ofmy respondents from theUnitedStates,Canada,IsraelandRussia. also ensuredbytheguidesofSynagoguethat educational institutions.Men Groups ofyoungpeoplearerare majority of thetouristswhoparticipateinth According tomy findingsfrom theinterviews 4.2.1.3. Synagogue, Memorial GardenandtheMuseum. that theyhave passedaspecial andverystrict additional examination) ontheterritory of the decision oftheSynagogue’srabbitheyareth Budapest and thattheyareofJewishre have adegreefrom JewishTheologicalSe the sample-guiding intheSynagogue.Attwoofag District buttheyarehired as argue the Jewish

Taken My

Danube,

respondents that

District

into

in The

the consideration comparison

tours.

folklore tourists were

workers evening

with

that

other

my

of tour e transmitters ofthe knowledgeabout

general tourguides.Th

sample tour and women areequallyrepresen sightseeing

and

agencies,

the , andtheycome usuallyas

was

like,

small, tours ligion. Startingfrom2008inaccordance withthe

who

12 the , whoareoftentimes se

e walkingtoursaremiddle-aged oroldpeople. of 33 these

participation base e onlyonesallowedtoleadgroups(provided ely occupiedwithleadin

Budapest, with leadersandguides stern Europeandarein usuallyvisittheJewishTriangle,consisting minary –UniversityofJewishStudiesin

results their thetouristsareusuallyEnglishspeakers Themajority of thevisitors are religious encies, itisaprerequisitethattheguides eir only training isparticipation insome

claims

such have

of

religious

as on to

the ted among thevisitors.Itwas

be the anorganisedgroupfrom

dealt theJewish district are.The Parliament

statistics Jews cond andthirdgeneration

with g groupstotheJewish in of touragencies, the terested notonlyin

the

of reservation.

tour,

highest the

last the

in years. cruise

the

They on 13

.

CEU eTD Collection

the majority of caseslinked to identity search The reasonswhytheinternational general Budapesttoursand (both towhom Ispoke andaccord tragic andshockingconnotations). claimed that onlythemost religiouspeoplego of Prague,Vienna,BudapestandCracow(thoughsome ofmy present aswell. narrated memories thereforethevisitedartefacts do notonly refer totheirpastbutdefine ancestors), theyexperiencealink,form ofid looking atthemonuments oftheheroeswho something aboutthehardshipofNazipers tours theyoftentimes become emotional (withte about everythingtheycanlinktotheirancest made duringthetourtolostrelatives(Verdery, 1999).Theyshowamazement andinterest and theyareveryhappytofindthecultureoftheirancestors.Thereisasymbolic connection respondents among thetourguides also Hungarian,me) togivemore information village (thoughtheycannot ancestors were HungarianJews.Inmany casestheyknowthename of talk about theirancestors. Astheyclaim, th guided tours, in many casesthey revealtheir id pronounceit)andaskthetourguid visits tothecountryside. Furthermore, almost allofthevi tourists decide to visitthe Jewish districtofBudapestisin ing totheaccountof tour claim thatthevisitorsareof ey areAmerican/Canadian/French etc.buttheir 34 ecutions andtheearlyperiodinemigration. By ors andthelifetheymight lived.During the . According tomy own to seeCracow andAuschw ars intheireyes)andnod rescued people(among possiblytheir them entity during thewalks andfeel the needto about thatparticular entification totheplaceaswell e (orincasestheyknewIwas operators)areinterested in ten insearchfortheirroots sitors oftheJewishdistrict tourguideinterviewees location. Manyofmy experiences from the whentheguide tells theruraltownand itz dueto itsvery CEU eTD Collection

site andspecific memory. analysis Iamfollowingtheseaspectstoshowhow and totheJews, religious specificity andfinally thecollective memory of theJews.Inmy and Kazinczystreetsynagogues),themain heroes narration isshaped.Theseissu The narrationofthetoursfollo 4.2.2. for thememories, thehistorical eventsandfo occasionally withmentioning wherethewallofth synagogue. With thepresentationofcemet the Holocaust islinkedonlytotheverylimited the Holocaust Documentation Centre (located in the9 The walking toursneglect tomention suchimportant institutions oftheHungarianJewry as Jewish Budapest(bothhi active synagoguesandJewishorganisationsthelike)areallexcludedfrom touristic the ghetto, theJewishhospitalwhichsavedthousa shooting peopleintotheDanubeduringHolo such asbuildings,sculpturesandmemorials. Budapest. Allthestories toldandeventsmentioned areinrelationtothe exactmonuments, space buton certainmonuments, whichareclai The walking tours, as menti 4.2.2.1.

Structure

Monuments

of

narratives

storic andcontemporary). oned previously,focusnotprim es involvethemain monument ws aspecificstructure

35 r remembrance. Byexcludingtheexistenceof Other aspectsofJewishspecificity(suchas urban space,thegardenofDohánystreet nds oflivesduringthewar,contemporary med tobetheborderstonesofJewish , theparticularhistorylinkedtolocation e Ghettowasthereis ery, themonument oftherescuers,and tourism representsandshapesaparticular caust anditsmemorial, theinternational th districtofBudapest).Duringthetours nd hasissuesaroundwhichthe s (suchastheDohány,Rumbach arily onagivengeographical a closedspacecreated CEU eTD Collection

Giorgio Perlasca there arethe historical heroes,such asRaoulWallenberg, CarlLutz Narration is builtaround specific people aswell, 4.2.2.2. the Shoah,thereseems tobeaninclusivenotionformed aroundthesoldurbanspace. other important artefacts andtestimonies ofJ 18 17 16 15 14 contemporary heroesmentionedpreviouslyhowe Western countriesandtheyallshowed altruism The common featureofalltheheroesisthatth donated considerablesums toJewishin Secondly, therearethecontemporar government member Josephine numerous of son the synagogues Hungarian

Tony Estee Giorgio Angelo Carl the

war Ronald

main Lutz

Curtis

Lauder he

of

Rotta

Perlasca

thesis) saviour ofthousandsHungarianJews.” establishment ofamemorial park Lauder, whoseactivehelpandrema already grewupinfreedomoftheexem “Let this table remind thesurvivors Esther

houses

government.

(1895 lived Heroes

S.

the figures and

to

Lauder (1925

stop Spanish (1906 (1872

the in

‐ Mentzer, 1975),

as

(1910

poverty of ‐

16

the like.

protected ), ‐ donated ‐

, whosavedlivesduringtheHolocaust. rescuing 2004), 1965),

American

consulate

deportation

Swiss –

1992), the and

a Roman

considerable

diplomat, successful youngest Jews

by only

actor

Italian

and the

during at Catholic of

Vatican issued

of

the Jews.

businessman, of from

business Hungarian

end

y heroes,suchasEsteeLauder the nine sums

thousands He high

1942 and

stitutions inBudapest.Forexample:

Holocaust of

kids issued

to

his

priest. woman, rescued

the

the

Jewish

to life named after RaoulWallenberg,the named after

36 udaism together withcommemorative placesof rescuer

immigrants

thousands leader

of theShoahandgenerationthat Hungarian of ey areallfromabroad,morespecifically

was In

towardstheHungarianJewry.Incaseof rkable donationcontributedtothe in

protective

many establisher origin; 1944

who canbedividedintotwogroups. First, Budapest. plary generosity of Sir Ronald S. plary generosityofSirRonald

ver, anotheraspectisemphasised: their he (Translation bytheauthorof the

of of

awarded

he the from many

Originally of Jewry of

was

protective Swiss

documents Hungarian

of the

Jews

fighting

for a

with

death cosmetic Consulate

called: establishing in

a Budapest.

documents, 17

honouree origin. to

marches. for andTony Curtis

persuade Bernard 14

brand. houses

in , AngeloRotta

She, Budapest.

schools,

He

degree

She

Schwartz. declared hiding

together

declared the

was

Hungarian renovating

of He

Jews.

born

the

with

was himself 18 15

, who

After as

and and

one her

a CEU eTD Collection

an American politician wasoriginally call world (e.g.TonyCurtistheAmer Jewish origin andletthe visitors guess th a game” withthetouristsbymentioning theor winners (e.g.EugeneWigner, JánosHarsányi,GyörgyOláhetc.).Thetourguidesoften“play Hungarian JewswhoescapedfromtheNazi Hungarian origin.Furthermore, thereisa 21 20 19 plaque, whichisplacedonthewallofHero not present inthecommemoration sitesofBuda though SáraSalkaházihasbeenre heroesasSáraSalkaházi visitor findthecommemoration ofsuchfemale heroes (Jews andnon-Jews),whohidchildren,cu around thesynagogue.Thereisno nor therecalledmemories thatarenarratedbythetourguidesmentioned inthe space there memorial parksnamed them. after Neither women iscompletely missing from theurban sp While walkinginthetouristic Jewish district, one caneasilynoticethat therepresentation of photographer wasbornasEndreErn and MargitSlachta opposed served Arrow the the

Margit Hanna Sára

Socialist Nazis

Cross Salkaházi as

Szenes anti

Slachta in a

soldier

1944. dictatorship. members ‐ Semitism

(1921

(1899 (1884

of

the

‐ ‐ in ‐ 1944), 1944), and 1974), 21

1944. British , whosavedhundredsofpeoplefromexecutioninBudapest.Even

fought

Member

Roman Roman

army.

against

Catholic

Catholic

She of ican film actorwasbornasBernardSchwartz,TomLantos cently recognisedand

the

deportation was ő Friedmann). mentioning offemale rescuers,forexample thesilent

Hungarian

nun, nun, sent

saviour eir name, how they are commonly known in the eir name,arecommonlyknowninthe how they

the to

37

ed Tamás Péter Lantos and Robert Capa a ed Tamás LantosandRobertCapaa Péter Hungary

of tendency toemphasise thefactthatamong first

regime, there werenumerous Nobelprize- Jewish

pest. Recently HannaSzenesgotamemorial iginal name peopleofHungarian offamous Jews. es Temple, however,itisneithervisiblenor ace. Therearenostatuesofwomen, norare theofficialcanonised"masculine" history of

female red thesickandlike.Neithercan

children.

resistance, In to

1949 gather even beautifiedbytheVatican,sheis

member

She

she

information.

emigrated

was escaped

of

the captured

Hungarian

to to

She the

19 Palestine

and

, HannaSzenes was United

killed parliament.

persecuted

in States

by

1939

the

from

and She

by 20

CEU eTD Collection

studied urban spacethat ofmen. that theroleof womenissilenced andtheircommemoration ismuch lesspresent inthe about andcommemorated asgloriouslye plaque ofHannaSzenes,implying thatfemale are nottalkedaboutnow.Some of Usually they repliedthatbecausethose women phenomenon, theyoftenseemed surprisedbythequestionandcouldnotfindanswerforit. walking toursandduringmy interviewsIaskedthetourguidesforreasonofthis not particularlytowomen, men orchildren(RittnerandRoth,1993).Whenattheendof these monuments byclaiming thattheHolocaust category ofthereligiousprohibit.Anotherna however whythenon-Jewishwomen arenotre public gravenimages ofJewishwomen (B interpretations ofthisnon-pr completely missing from the narratives of approachable because ofthefences.Herst claimed thatduringWW2theGerman army occu by foreign(mainly Western European) heroes(asdi positioning Hungarians, especiallyHungarianJews asthevictims ofhistory,whoweresaved In allthenarrationsbydifferenttouroperators rescued byWesternEuropeanheroesandfinally pillars: Hungaryispositioned The narrationofhistori 4.2.2.3.

Commemoration cal events yields discourses in esence, onebeingtheOrthodoxJewi

and as avictim ofthe mysubjects,afterawhileof

commoditisation .g. Wallenbergis.However,onecanconclude 38 aumel, 1998). Onemight raisethequestion ory and the existenceofhermemorial are rrative explains theabsence ofwomen from were notsosignificant during theShoah,they all the walking tours. , theneglectofroleSoviets. and tourguidethereis heroes arenotforgotteneveniftalked pied Hungary,bywhich theycausedalotof happened toJewishvictims ingeneraland presented, since they do not fall intothe presented, sincetheydonotfall Nazi terror;HungaryanditsJewswere scussed intheprevious subchapter). Itis

the walkingtourandrestsonthree thinking addedthatthereisa sh narrative,whichbansthe acommon of feature There are different Therearedifferent CEU eTD Collection

Arrow Crosssoldiers withtheaim of preventin entrance oftheGhetto)savedth country. Itisalsooverlooked Hungarian), whichwasthemain persecutor of the existenceandterrible and forthebombardment ofmany synagogues.Ho harm tothecountryanditspe mentioning oftheSoviets,unless there isa Soviet ArmyintheHungarian Holocaust. Du In thischangingmemory culture,however,there the reasonforthisphenomenon. sponsored, partlypaidbyaffluentHungarianJews inemigration, itreflectstheposition and states. Furthermore, sincethecreationofme when thecountrymade alotofeffortinre people whohidfamilies, fed children andtheli menlocal rescuers.Thereisno obsession with thememory offoreignheroes,whichgoeshandinwiththeneglect memorial parksaswelllegendsandmyth “discovered” afterthedemocratic changesinHunga of foreign consulates, suchasWallenberg accepted and spreadthatduringtheHungarianHo The secondpillarofthenarration also thecanonisedhistoryofHungary,andthus planned amassacre(Ungváry,1998).Thegeneralis activityoftheHungari ople. Theyaremaderesponsible that attheendofwarth tioning, letalonegratitudeto e lifeoftheJewsatbigGhetto,whenHungarian rests onthememory cultureoftherescuers.Itisgenerally 39 -creating itsrelationswithWestern European question fromthevisito and CarlLutz.Theirpositive memory was theofficialstate s. Itseems thatsince1989thereisanew ring thewalkingtours g the Soviet Army from liberating the Jews g theSovietArmy fromliberatingtheJews morial parksandstatueswaspartlystate ke. Thismemory boomstartedin thetimes locaust themain heroeswerethemembers deportation andkillingtheJewryof is avery debatable issue:therole ofthe ation aboutHungariansasvictims reflects wever, thenarrationneglectstomention an ArrowCrossParty( ry andisfrozeninst e German troops(guardingthe fortheHungarianHolocaust narrative aswell. local resistance,non-Jewish rs aboutthem.While there isusuallyno atues, streetnames, Nyilas Pártin CEU eTD Collection

As itisseenfrom theexamples, theroleof liberators oftheentirecountrybefore1989)who Usually Soviets areclaimed tobetheliberators of Army occupiedHungary,while pushed inthebackground.Inofficialpo Jewry andtheirmemorial plaque during Socialism, Sovietsweretheonlycommem whether itiscalledtheJewish districtortheJe shrinking the JewishBudapestinto thespace which canonlybeaccessedaftersecurityco narrating allthemonuments inasmallurbansp relations. Mapping thememory toterritory ca social circlesareemphasised toterritory,butalsopo Jews”, “theytheforeignheroes”andth becomes acircle(Paxson,2005), Budapest canbeviewedasasiteofmemory, andassuch,ithasitstopography.Memory tours. TakingAminzade's (1992)analysisof Aspects ofcreatingcollective memories canalso constitutes thepast. memory oftheRedArmyistrapped betweenth narratives, whichchallengethecontemporary reflection ofnationalpolitics.Th complicated withthecreationanddiscriminati opposition of goodand suffering Hungarians and thepersecuting Germans. Theirpositiongot s arestillvisiblene in thecaseofBudapestGhettoonecannotclaim this. e neglect of theirrole theref since thenarrationcreatesano 40 around theDohánystreetsynagogue (nomatter the SovietArmy doesnot st-1989 Hungarianhistor e persecutorswhomade Jewssuffer”.These wish triangle).Secondly, memories of social ace (andbig partsofthemevenbehindgates, ntrol andonlyinlimited time), aswell history andmemory, theJewishdistrictof n berevealedinthenotionofplacingand on ofnarrativesabout soon turnedthecountryintoadictatorship. e socialistandpost-soci notion ofnationalhistory.Therefore, the orated heroesandsavioursoftheBudapest be revealed inthenarration of thewalking theGhetto(likethey werenarratedasthe xt to the Synagogue, their memory was xt totheSynagogue,theirmemorywas litical groupingsandeconomical ore iscausedbytheoldsetof tion oftheinclusive“we the past,whichisa iography theSoviet alist notion of what fit intothebinary CEU eTD Collection

of thetourguidesclearly specifiesthat thesp The narratives aboutreligioussp 4.2.2.4. freedom ofreligiousexpression,democracyandhumanitarian actions). in thenarration of thememory circles arealsoemphasised to in some casesRoma people,thatthemonument homosexuals, thementally disabledandthepo Given thefactthatNazis Talmud, isaclearreferencetoJudaism. which whom CarlLutzsaved,eventhoughontheme 1975) rescuedthousandsfrom Na memory ofthosewhoin1944und the SynagoguebutalsoonCarlLutzmemorial inthenei war” (translationbytheauthor).Furthermore, notonlyinrelationtothegatedspacearound from thewallof theJewish Museum: “Inmemo themartyrsis written:“Tocommemorate of made tothetime frame andto the victims. For monuments thereisnomentioning oftheword“J since itmentions agroupof written onthevisitedmemorials, from them memories, personalhistoriesandidentities.Howe are artefacts of Jewishlife aswell. Thepersonal stories of thetourists also refer toJewish

Simultaneous

silencing in Hungarypersecutedmostly Jews(unlikeinGermany, where political groupingsand ecificity oftheurban spaceyield paradoxes. Thecommentary people whowere sufferersofNazism.Onmany ofthe of foreignheroesandthevalu tional Socialistpersecution”.Th er theleadershipofSwissConsulCarlLutz(1895-

and

emphasising nr.208/8workercompany: 1940-1945”andone ace islinkedtoJudaism. 41 it isnotobviousthattheycommemorate Jews, litical oppositionwerealsoundertorture)and example, onthewallofHeroes’ Temple it isinaJewishspaceand themonument was ry ofourheroeswhodiedduringtheworld ver if onereads carefully thetexts which are morial plaquethereisaquotefrom the ew” or“Jewish”there isonly areference economic relations,whichisreflected

Jewishness ghbouring streetit es theyrepresented(suchas ere isnospecificationof Thevisitedmonuments

is written:“In CEU eTD Collection its subjects. erected in ademocratic regime itisinteresti

Figure

4:

Carl

Lutz

memorial

(picture ng toobservewhyitlacks 42

taken

by

the

author

of the

thesis) the clearstatement of

CEU eTD Collection

stories oftheothervisitors.Thereisadialogicprocessgoingon: History andmemories areencounteredinthe the walking toursbecome connectedtoitandsensetheurbanspaceastheirown place. district andlisteningnarr Budapest yieldsmany paradoxesanddiscourses.ThoughwalkingthestreetsofJewish As seenfromtheaboveexamples, commercia sites andmonuments. Theserecollections stories thatweresilenced duringSocialism ar to reinforceJewishnessandnostalg The walking tours utilise aspecific narration to practice (Richardson,2005) Different historiesand temporalities co-exist parts of it,itismore connectedwiththeirre Certeau, 1988), whichexistsonthetopofex tolerant andrecogniseshuman being Jewish,stillrepresentingth The tourists’perceivedBudapest stories towhichtheruinedandol from beingcontemporary tothatoftheHungari space therefore isperceived asbeing communal. of theancestors,anotionth monuments ofthepast,believi remembering but arebeingreminded. Bypart ations abouthistoryandmemories of ofJewishBudapest. ng indiscoveryofhiddentreasu rights andfreedoms. From the e “Jewish Budapest” is born, to which they all belong. The e “JewishBudapest”isborn,towhichtheyallbelong.The d buildingsprovidethescenery. transforms intoaJewish Buda e lifeoftheirancestors, howe ia. Thehistories aswellpersonalmemories andfamily 5. Discussion and connectionsarehowever discursive. inforced common memories thanwiththe reality. 43 and make thewalking touraplace-making e nowhighlightedand reconnected tocertain streets, synagogues,monuments aswellin an-Jewish ancestors.Feel Theurbanspace issymbolicallytransformed emphasise theuniquenessofDistrictand isting urban space,and whileitutilisessome lising andnarratingthe icipating inthe walkingtours, visiting fellow tourists,participants in space pest, whichyieldsqualitiesof res andfindingthelostworld ver itisalreadydemocratic, they createa they tourists arenotonly ings arerecreatedby Jewish districtof place (de CEU eTD Collection

overseas (Cole,1999). and whichreflectsthe valuesandexpectations of monuments locatedatotherparts contemporary andactivelyJewishartefactsofJu only averylimited numberofm picture ofthereality.Thisstatement holdstrue than itcanfulfil. Thus,byshrinkingJewishBudapest time andspace restrictions itis highly impossible Given thefactthatthereareapprox.100.000Jews As thetitles of thewalking tours suggest, the 22 about thenicesecretsof thehistoricaltimes. people theyrescued.Theoldhouses Cracow. Thisisreinforcedbyshowingthestat image similarly tothephenomenon thatGrub intake: therescueiscelebrated,givingth anti-Semitism arenottreated.Commemoration of times whentheHungarianJewswereallpart predominantly from abroad,arebeingshownthe (Hidden TreasureToursLtd.leafletofthe “discover hiddentreasures”andwhereoneisab where thevisitors can “findatrulymystical space oftheinner7 Secondly, thereisacreationof to

These the

Synagogue particular

complex

walking th

district,andmorespecificallyitsJewishDistrict,issoldas aplace in tours,

Dohány

which

street:

“happy olddays”image, ora onuments andsightsinthetour are of thecity. Instead, they createaspace wheretime isfrozen

areintroducedastheoldandmagical placeswhichtalk organised

to

the

synagogue, e HungarianHolocaust apositive, "happy end"

under 44 ues ofsavioursandme Jewish quarter,2007).Th especially fortwoofth tours involve awalkar of apeacefulmulticultural society.Issuesof le to“experiencetheoldendaysatmosphere” er (2002)andCole(1999)describedabout andstorytelling corner”,wheretheycan themajority of Jewishvisitorscoming from daism aswell asneglect important Jewish to walk the entirecit

old buildingsandaretoldstoriesfrom the inthecity(Komoróczy, 1999)anddueto the very tragic events alsogets apositive

the

title into averysmall area, itdistorts the

museum,

of

“Jewish

type ofnostalgia.Theurban and 22

Budapest” . Bythistheyexclude the

the ntioning thenumbersof e agencies,whoinclude ound JewishBudapest. y, the tour offers morey, thetouroffers

memorial e touristswhoare

lead

garden. the

visitors

only

CEU eTD Collection

as theVácistreet,SaintStephe neighbouring streetsandtheyareallinwalking operators. They werepickedamong hundredsfor monuments. However thosespecific monuments metonymy ofthe JewishBudapest.Itsboun open airmuseum. Thismuseum gets aname: th Jewish culture and past arerepresented asif Jewish districtoftheinner 7 Another controversyisthat, some ofthe heroes memory isfrozenintoamemorial ofmetal s more Jewsdiedthere(beingshotinto Pest sideof theDanubewouldhavebeenamo in Újlipótváros,therewas thete Holocaust, thisdistrictwasonlyoneoftheghettos. OnthePestsideofMargaret Bridge, only linked tothememory oftheSecondWorl many districtswhereJewslivedinthebeginning tourism, sincetheyoften refer toitas“the Furthermore, theNazicategorisationisused display ofthepast,memory andofJewishculture. not evenmentioned. The inner7 street, theWallenberg statue andparkinÚjlip district, theironshoes Other veryimportant Jewishsites,suchas complex businessenterpriseswithouthaving for on thebankofDanube,small th districtneveroperatedin these n’s basilica,AndrássyAvenue rritory oftheinternationalghetto.Cole(2002)arguesthat th districtisnowtheonly"offi the Danube) than in hoes, neartheHungarian HouseofParliament. ghetto of Budapest”. This was only one of the Thiswasonlyoneofthe ghettoofBudapest”. the HolocaustDocumentation Centreinthe9 the walking tour wasfollowing a pathway in an 45 ótváros are allexcluded from thetourandare tosellthe"product" whohaverecentlyerected monuments inthe daries areseemingly definedbyimportant re trueHolocaustcomm distance fromothermajortouristsites(such of thetwentieth century anditsimageisnot economic reasons.Sincetheyarelocatedin d War. Additionally, inconnectionto the e Jewish DistrictofBudapest,which isa to investlotofmone were selectedforagivenreasonbytour the ghettoof7 memorial cobblestonesofRáday streets. Forexample CarlLutz,a and thelike),theyform agood cial" Jewishpilgrim site,a ofthecontemporary emoration site,since emoration y intransportation. th district. Their Their district. th

CEU eTD Collection

synagogues, locatedallaroundthec tours formanyyearsalready).The actively their religious affiliation (asmentioned bytwoof my interviewees, both Jewishand leading hundreds ofpeopleintheDohány the Rumbach synagogue,whichisinruins.A there are hardly anypeople at the servic important inthepast;howeveronausualSh major religioussitesforthecontemporary Hung (Dohány synagogue,RumbachsynagogueandKazin according tothetouristbrochureofgui Budapest. ItisnotthegatheringplaceofJe Furthermore, thetouristicJewi hospitals forJewsonBethlentér, protected housesoftheSpanish,SwissandSwedishembassiesallovercity, 21 AjtósiDürer sor,wherenunssavedhundreds of livesfrom theArrowCrossterror; where thousandsofJews werehidingin1944-45) tours ofJewish Budapest.NorareplacesinBu headquarter buildingoftheZionis Even thoughtherearealsomemo stands now.Hisworkislinkedtoth as wellmade 72housesprot Swiss consulduringtheShoah,whoissuedtens of thousandsprotectivedocuments toJews 23 U.S. Embassy onSzabadságtér,alsointhe5

In

fact, it

is

mostly

used

for

religious

ected, neveroperated inthe7

purposes sh district isonly adisplay ofcontemporaryJudaism of Columbus utcaorWesselényi utca). t movement inVadászutca,5 street synagogue,onlythosego rials abouthim memorial (e.g.his roomintheformer ity, whicharenotincludedin e international ghetto and to the5 e inthegreatsynagogueofDohánystreet

only

on abbat (excepttheort ws ofthecontemporaryBudapest.Eventhough 46 nd eventhoughonthemain holidaysthereare th ded tourtherearethree"major" synagogues

da (e.g.the buildings ofRedCrossorVatican, special district)these arenot and openlyJewishbelieversgotosmall arian Jewry. They are big in size and were arian Jewry.Theyarebiginsizeandwere orothersidesofPest czy synagogue),theydonotserveasthe occasions. th

district,wherehismonument hodox Kazinczysynagogue) th the walkingtour.Thisfact dictrictorinfrontofthe there whowanttodisplay visited bythe walking (e.g.69Thökölyútor th districtofBudapest. 23 , letalone CEU eTD Collection

Soviet Army), whohadabig rolein the 20 reflect thecurrentpoliticalid out shockingelements thatwouldemotionally recreated inordertosellthecontemporary "product",the also proves thattheimage ofth 24 and innocaseshocking,itmi Judaism withitshistory,memory andartefacts light ofservingpost-modern the HungarianJewrywillcentre on buildingsto involves trivialisationofmemories a The sumofallthese phenomena resembles thecurrent observable factinIsrael, which particular historiesandmemories. monuments withrestrictedentrancebutalsoth notion ofghettoisationmemory hasbeenex the historyandmemory frames whicharelinked suggests not onlyamonopoly overthespacebut from theJewish Universityandpassedanadditionalexam bytherabbiofSynagogue bytheJewishTouristicandCulturalCentrewhoalsohaveadegree who areemployed only thosecanleadgroupsintheterritory The monopoly ofguidingalsoprovidesaninteres century. Israeli

Zandberg

life

and

(2006)

how

analyses this

intense

the

presence

question

eology andsimultaneously forgettingaboutothers(suchasthe ght affectinemergence ofster tourism might haveunexpected e area,astheJewishdistrictof

of how

Holocaust nd historyoftheShoah(Zandberg,2006)

Holocaust of theSynagogue,Memorial GardenandMuseum th centurylifeof

commemoration 47 touch thevisitors,bycreatingnewheroeswho

e narration of Judaism as such,togetherwith e narrationofJudaism as commemoration panded recentlyanditdoesnotincludeonly to specificselected things thatareattractive to theHungarianJewry.Thus,Cole’s(2002) ting groundforanalysis.Giventhefactthat also overnarrations. Narrations includeall visit, restaurantstoconsume atandsome

the HungarianJewsandallin in eotypes. These stereotypes about

daily turned urban spaceoftheearly21 consequences. Bysimplifying Budapestisonlyartificially

life

into

caused a “Holocaustisation”

its

trivialisation. 24 . By leaving . Byleaving

of

st

CEU eTD Collection

the factthattheypractice itthrough the Even thoughtouristagenciesworkforfinancia imposing discoursesaboutpoliticsofcommemoration. memory, nostalgiaandJewishpastbymaking (Cohen, 1988)butinordertocreateaCentral link culture andmemory tospecific places.To to spa),form atransnationalnetwork byinterac national bordersperpetually(Bin tourism yieldstransnational aspects: visito (non-Jewish) touristicsitesofthecities(e.g.castl but areoccupiedbydisplayJ space isparadoxical: the toursdonot includevis Schindler butalsoseekingleisureintheregi identity search, nostalgia, interest inWW2 a channelthat ismaintained by Budapest andCracow(andinlesserextentofWarsawBratis lava) became participants of of theJewishQuadrangle(Grube Budapest isnotunique;itra various qualitiesandev becomes a kind ofamusement park(a“Disneyla concerts, kosherrestaurantsandtheannualJewi The reinforcedrecreationofth (Cole, 1999). heroes toremember, suchasithappenedinKazimierz, theJewishDistrictofCracow,Poland ery visitorcanchoosefrom itsstereotypicalofferings. Thecaseof udaism ofthebiggest(non-acti ther apartofCentral Euro multiple users,such as byglobaltouristindustry, pilgrimage, der, 2004),adoptvarioustourist e BudapestJewishDistrict r, 2002).TheJewishdistricts imposition ofcommoditised representation,they rs experience many placesatshorttime, cross 48 on. However,theconsumptionofJewish atrocities, coming forimages ofKafkaand use oflocal/globaleconomic resourcesandby l profittheypracticeco urism commoditises notonly urbanlandscape European Jewishspace,itdoescommoditise ting withstrangersofthesameandre- aim, its toactivecommunities nd”?) forinternationaltourists,whichyields es, markets, bathsandthelike).Thistypeof sh SummerFestival. pean phenomenonofthenetwork ve) synagoguesandothermajor is strengthened by Klezmer of citiesVienna,Prague, experiences (gofromchurch mmemoration. Despite The JewishDistrict or churchservices, CEU eTD Collection

urban spaceandemphasising itsmemories thr provide groundsforrecreatingandenforcingJe

49 ough monuments, buildings andthelike.

wish identitythroughwalkinginaspecific CEU eTD Collection

specificity, recreationof identity aswell The urbanspaceofthe JewishDi present. (Berger andLuckmann 1980)andsimultaneously by life ofacommunity.Thus,monume identification pointsofgroupsby and monuments alsoenhance collective memories linking these memories tospecificgeographic places,such asstreets, citysquares, buildings always envisaged as positive and stabile, where thedailylife flows ina harmonic manner. By generates bondbetweentheideali significant partof their identitywithothers interacting withothertouristswho havesimilar memories the visitors feel they share a of Judaism itcreatesanotion Claiming specialmemories ofthedistrict and on severaldifferentlevels. well. The contemporary Jewishquarter of Budape visitors tolookthroughitscons identity. Being critical of its numerous kosher restaurantsthe of Sovietliberators totheemphasis offoreign heroesand recently the establishment of differing aspectsofithavebeenemphasisedat century ithasbeenlinked totheHolocaust monuments andraising questions of collectivememories inth tructed image offorcedrememb districts hasbecome aghettoof representingasignif strict isvery interesting du sed lifeofone’sancestorsa nts inthemselves havethe power of creating identities 6. Conclusion as contemporary narration.From themid 20 . Duringthe walksnostalgia iscreated, which 50 identifying itwithcertain elements and events but dependingontheofficialstatepolitics, different pointsoftime. Fromthecelebration st isa very important institution of memory , because thesefrozen objectscan become defining thepasttheyalsodefine icant eventthathad e visitors.Through walkingand e toitshistory,ethno-cultural ering andseeitsparadoxesas forcedmemories andcreated aboutthem might helpthe nd thelifetheylived.Itis an impact onthe th

CEU eTD Collection

connotations withtheNazi’s Red Army, furthermore, placingtheHungarianna such asemphasising thegloryofWestern Europeanmale rescuerswhileforgettingaboutthe what andwho is remembered and whatarethe as also become commercialised.Politicalinterest Furthermore, theseparticularmemories inthe forgetting in thecommemorative sp and havetolearnfromit,butinrealityth memories. Howeverthisisdiscursive.Seemingl monuments etc.)innarrationandcommemorat Fixating tooneincidentorase exact Sovietheroesareremembered, iftheyar selected heroes(R.Wallenberg, C.Lutz,G.Pe remembering andforgettinghasinterestingfeatur reminding andforgetting,commemorating andsilencinggoingon.Thisdichotomy of into images, stories and stereotypes during the walking tours. There is asimultaneous collective memory of theHolocau certain groupofpeople,andinparticular specific urban space.Thesememories arehowev of post-socialist transformations the memories of thewalkingtoursbecome alllinked toa described reflectasmuch thepastastheyre influenced by thecontext in which theyarer However, therearecontroversies inthesepr in the1940’swhileblaming Germ t ofselectedevents(e.g.therescue st (approvedbythestateandJe ace aroundtheDohánystreetsynagogue. theheroeswhosavedpeople.Thecanonised veal thepresent(Bakhurst ere isasmuch remembering assilencingand 51 rlasca andthelike),whileforgettinggroups(no ecalled and narrated. Thus, theeventsthatare e talkedabout,theyarementioned asgroups). ocesses. Theremembered events are always context oftheBudapest s aswelleconomic considerationsshape y yes,sincewecannotforgetabouttheShoah es: ittendstobeobsessedwithmemory of er veryselectiveandcommemorate onlya ion seems asacting inaccordance with tion intheroleofvi pects that are silenced. Political interests, wish organisati ans forpersecutionscoexist , 1990).Inthecontext ctims neglectingtheir Jewish Districtthey people, theroleof ons) isfrozen CEU eTD Collection

they wanttohearonly thepositive stories about theidealised late19 past inordertogainmemories, evenifthos the JewishDistrictofBudapestand arewilling toseestereot identify with,furthermore tofind theirlost relatives inthemcanoneclaimthattouristsvisit entirely lost,andpeopleneed FollowingNora’s(1996)ar is itarealmemory? special communityofmemory. However,onemight askthequestionwhosememory isitand to generateabondthatmakes tiedtothe them international tourism. historyismerged Canonised of sites(Urry,1990),theurbanspaceismade opentocommoditisation andconsumptionfor defining and shapingthehistoricalurban spaceto By walkingthestreets, narrating thepasthistor (Cole, 2000). with financialinterests,wher cultural repertoireinvolvesitesth shared memories ofthepastandidentifyingas to theirfamily members duringtheShoah? C simultaneously defendingthemselves from having rescue ofpeopleintheShoahtohavenice space thus,isnotonlya recordofthepastbut Exhibiting andtalkingabouthistoryisalwaysa memories, contributetotheirowncultural identity asAmerican Jews. visited thesynagogues,takenphotosofsightsandboughtsouve District ofBudapestandalsoothercities eby Shoah(orratheritsrepres “lieux demémoire” at theyhavetoseeandthus,th in the region?Havingbeenintheregion,having e memories arenottheir 52 ontinuing thislineofargumentation,byhaving and pleasant memories of theirancestors and ies andmemories from aspecific angleandre- offsprings ofCentralEuropeanJews,dotheir place, identifywithitand become partofthe it intentionally creates gumentation that realmemories are almost createaplace,more specificallyascenery withthememories of to cope withthe real eventsthat happened constructive act(Stier, 2003).Theurban (sites of memory) toreplace them, and entation) becomes agoodbusiness ypical nostalgic elementsofthe ey decidetovisittheJewish nirs theycollect theirown own? Furthermore,do and recreates thepast th the touristsinorder centuryandabout CEU eTD Collection

harmonic life of thelate19 historical JewishDistrict(withitstwohundred collective memories ofacertainurbanspaceor acommunity. Simplifying theconceptof call attentionthatvariou (does commercialisingof atrocities leadtotrivia memory levels(whomtoremember, whothe“r utilising methods ofqualitativeresearch.Even District ofBudapestmultiple pe and thepresentaswell.Tounderstandcomplexi only inparticularities.Therefore,byremembering heroes whorescuedanonymous people, commemorates the Jewishfate ingeneral andm Jewish community,whichisnotlinkedto te Hungarian Jewsanymore andvisittheareaastour in emigration, thesecond/thirdgenerationHo that itisaheritageofcontemporary Jewry.Howe as theIronShoesmemorial ortheHolocaust Jewish culture (nor about thepast one), neither fully about Holocaust of Hungary.Giventhefactthat broad evenifitJewishcultureandtheShoahwe encounter contradictions.Claimi because ofitstransformationinto “heritage”. Ho The JewishDistrictofcontemporary Budapestis to coupleofmonuments might easilyleadto s perspectiveshavetobetakenin th century,thecelebrationofcertainforeignrescuersandlinkingit rspectives havetobetaken,asthecurrentstudytrieddoby thecontemporary JewishDistri ng thatitistheheritageof reduce itsconceptto 53 Documentation Centre)onecannotevenclaim thoughthereareambiguiti eal” heroeswere)aswellaboutmoral issues separate from theliving communityof Jews locaust survivors,whodonotidentifyas re important elements inthenational history lisation oftheirmemory), thisstudytriesto ourns thelossof Jewishlife ingeneral, not wever whenasking whoseheritageitis, we year of history) totheideaofnostalgic yearofhistory) ver, is it consequently the heritage of Jews ver, isitconsequentlytheheritageofJews mporal frames andspatial locations. It ty ofhistoriesandmemories Jewish of the ists? Itisratherthe ists? to considerationwhentalkingabout theHungariannationseems too ct isnotaboutcontemporary stereotypical images. commemoration (such heritage ofavirtual es abouthistorical- CEU eTD Collection

memory sites. transnational tourism inrelation tohistorical Jewi the small sample size.Afurtherresearchis results cannot begeneralisedtootherJewish present oftheJewishDistrictBudapest Though thecurrentresearchprovidedacomplex analysis ofhowtourismshapesthepastand memorials. recreating andenforcingJewishidentitythrough itsemphasis onaspecificurbanspaceandits claimed that theJewishorganisationisan the district, similar somehowtothe agencies th difficult anditisconnectedtothefactthat they donotfocusonHungarianJews onlybutontheentity 25 entire Holocaust. Holocaust

As

the world”,

text

survivors.

It

commemorates on

the

the

memorial

Carl Lutz

focuses

a memorial much

on bigger

a suggests, bigger

group,

entity

“Whoever

which ethnic entrepreneur,whichprovidesgroundsfor highlighted itsmain actorsandparadoxes,the

54 than urban spacesofCentralEastern Europedueto Jewish organisationbecameanentrepreneurin

neededtounderstandthemechanisms of also at Idiscussinthisstudy.Itcanbefurther sh Districts due to thei to due sh Districts

the saves

includes

group

a life

of ofJewishpeople. the

is

Hungarian

considered

second

and

Jews, as r complexity associal

third

if

who he

25 generation

has

Theansweris died

saved

during

an

the

CEU eTD Collection

Other comments: back then? Whatarethe Diditchange How wouldyoudefinetheJewishBudapesttoday? Personal view: Information aboutthetour Information aboutthetourists: Interviews with thetourguides/coordinators Appendix

p. o. n. m. l. k. j. i. h. g. f. e. d. c. b. a.

Was thereachangeinthe num tourists? how? Morefacilities Does thegentrification intheJewish District Was therean increase of visitors after Kertesz got theNobelpricefor Fateless? the Holocaust? What arethe touristsinterested in? Personalstories? Nostalgia? Detailed eventsof Holocaust Documentation Centre,activesynagoguesetc. What aboutotherJewishmonuments? W What istheaim ofthetour? Holocaust, religious identity? Pe Narratives: Onwhatistheemphasis?: Why there,whythatroute,thosemonuments interest inWW2,other Reasons forwalking:Pilgrimage, memory Budapest Part ofachain(CentralEuropeanJewi Organised toursorindividuals Holocaust survivorornot,genealogyinCEE? General info count aboutthem: age,sex, How wouldyoudefinetheJewishdistri family, inschool,specialtrai Source ofknowledgeabouttheJewishdist Reasonsforworkingthere? Since whendotheythisjob? General infoaboutthem:

1 iii. iv. ii. v.

i.

Holocaust survivorornot,genealogyinCEE? religion (active/passive) country oforigin sex age reasons forthechange? Æ moretouristsornewbu ning bythetouragencyetc.) ber ofvisitorsin 55

ct ofBudapest sh triangle/quadrangle)ortouristsof ry oforigin,religion(active/passive), hy aren’totherthi affect theinterest of tourists? If yes, tourism, religiousidentitysearch, rsonal stories,hi rict (residentofthedistrict,from thepastcouple ildings, lostoldatmosphere afterSocialism? Howwasit geographically)? geographically)? of years? Reasons? of years? story, architecture, ngs included:e.g. Æ less CEU eTD Collection

6. 5. 4. 3. 2. resp. tourguides) Interviews with thedevelopers ofthetour Appendix

Other comments: What’s yourpersonalviewofBudape Information aboutthetour: Information aboutthetourists General information abouttheagen a. j. i. h. g. f. e. d. c. b. a. d. c. b. a. c. b. a.

change/no changeinyourview? Did thisimage changesincesocialism? If Cooperation withotherwalkingtourag Cooperation withotheractors:e.g.localcouncil,religiousci Has thenumberofvisitorschangedin Has theroutechangedsince theagency Is thereaHungarian Ifyes,howofte tour? Holocaust Documentation Centre,activesynagoguesetc. What aboutotherJewishmonuments? W What istheaim ofthetour? Holocaust, religious identity? Pe Narratives: Onwhatistheemphasis?: Why thatpartofth Which parts of thecity? What isth Bratislava, Cracow,Berlin)? Part ofachain(Jewishquadrangle)or interest inWW2,other Reasons forwalking:Pilgrimage, memory Organised touristgroups Holocaust survivorornot,genealogyinCentral General info count aboutthem: age,sex, How wastheroutesetu Market research: forwhom isthetour organised,howoften,inwhichlanguages religious reasons What werethereasons for establishing it: commercial profit, commemoration,

2

e city,whythatroutandthosemonuments p, bywhom was itsetup or ratherindividuals cy: whenwasitestablished,bywhom st asaJewish (themanagementofthewalkingtouragency, 56 e route? Whiche route? monuments areshown? the last couple of years? Why? thelastcoupleofyears? encies inCentralEasternEurope was established?Ifyeswhyandhow? n? Ifnot,whatisth n? yes,how? What arethe reasons forthe tourists ofBudapest(Prague,Vienna, ry oforigin,religion(active/passive), hy aren’totherthi city today? city today? tourism, religiousidentitysearch, rsonal stories,hi Eastern Europe? vil society,state e reasonforitslack? story, architecture, ngs included:e.g.

CEU eTD Collection

Interview withtheparticipants Appendix c. b. a. m. l. k. j. i. h. g. f. e. d.

Is this thefirst time orhave taken aJewi Why interested inthetour? General infoaboutthem: Other comments: What doyouthinkoftherecreation How doyouseethechangesifthereareany: Socialism: Commemoration andexpressionofJewi If remember SocialistJewi Budapest,characterise: If remember preWW2Jewish Opinion aboutTHEJewishdistrict Satisfied withthetour? Whatare/ Coming toBPonlyseethisoralsosomething else? How didtheyfindoutaboutit?Wa If yes,where? changes onsome processes,people

3 iii. vi. iv. ii. v.

i.

genealogy inCEE? Holocaust survivorornot, religion (active/passive), country/city oforigin, sex, age, (ensuredaboutanonymity): sh Budapest,characterise were theexpectationsfrom it? 57 (e.g.is/wasitmysticaletc.) s itorganisedbyatouroperator? etc. (bothlocalandtourists) sh walkingtourinotherpartsofEurope? sh identitybeforeWW2andduring old Jewish district? old Jewishdistrict? Does ithaveany CEU eTD Collection

7. 6. 5. 4. 3. 2. 1. List ofanalysed/interviewed Tour operators Appendix AVIV Totally JewishTravel Hidden TreasuresLtd Hungarian KoncertLtd. Program Centrum CITYRAMA EUrama

4

58 CEU eTD Collection

Cole, T.AndSmith, G.,(1995),Ghettois Cole, T.,(2002),Commemorating "PariahLands Cole, T.,(1999),SellingtheHolo Cohen, E.,(1988),Authenticitya Certeau de,M.,(1988),TheWriting ofHistory, Brockmeier, J.,(2002),Remembering andFo Bodnár, J.,(2001),Fin-de-MillénaireB Binder, J.(2004),Travellers Berger, P.L.andLuckmann,T.,(1980),TheSocialConstructionofReality Benjamin, W.,(1973),Illuminations, Baumel, J.T.,(1998),DoubleJeopardy:GenderandtheHolocaust,London,Portland: Bakhurst, D., (1990),Social Memory inS Assman, J.(1997).MosestheEgyptian:The Asworth, G.J.(2002),Holocaust Tourism: TheExperienceofKrakow-Kazimierz, Aminzade, R.,(1992),HistoricalSociology andTime; Books References Bauman, Z.,(1996), FromPilgrim toTouris Research, 15,pp.371-386. Vol. 20,No.4,456-480. & London:Universityof International ResearchinGeogr Research GroupTransnationalismWorkingPaper, Historical Geography, Vol. 11,No.4.,pp.:368-371. 1945-2000, packaged and sold; and Psychology, Frankfurt/M.: Fischer. Vallentine Mitchell. (eds) Cambridge, MA:HarvardUniversityPress, Cultural Identity and Collective Remembering

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New York:Routledge. MinnesotaPress. 22, 1,pp.:300-316. capes: Tourism Researchand nd CommoditizationinTourism, caust: from AuschwitztoSchindler:howhistoryisbought, , pp.203-226.London:Sage. aphical andEnvironmentalEduation, Glasgow: Fontana. udapest: Metamorphoses ofUrbanLife.Minneapolis ation andtheHolocaust:Budapest1944, du Gay.London:Sage. t –oraShortHistoryofIdentity,In: oviet Thought.In:D.MiddletonandD.Edwards rgetting: NarrativeasCulturalMemory, 59

Columbia University Press. memory ofEgyptinWesternmonotheism. capes": MemorialisingtheBudapestGhetto, pp. 9. Sociological MethodsandResearch; No 6,September 2004. Transnational Anthropology, Annuals ofTourism , [1966]. Vol.11, No.4. Questions of Journal of Culture

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Mitchell, J.P.,(1998),Thenostalgicconstructionofcommunity: Middleton, D.andDerekE.,(1990),Introduction,inEdwards,(ed.) Komoroczy, G.(ed.),(1999),JewishBudapest.Monuments, Rites,History,Budapest:Central Hirsch, M.,(1997),Family P Frames: Halbwachs, M.,(1980), Gruber, R.E.,(2002),VirtuallyJewish: Gruber, R.E.,(1999),Jewishheritagetrav Gitelman, Z.,(2001),Reconstructing Jewish Gantner, B.E.,andKovács,M.,(2007),Alteri Finkelstein, N.(2000),TheHolo Durkheim, E.,([1915]1976), Csanádi, G.,Csizmady, A.,Ko Paxson, M.(2005),Solovyovo-TheStoryofMemory inaRussianVillage; Nora, Pierre.(ed.).1996.Realms ofMemory. Rojek, C.,(1993),Ways ofEscape:Modern Rittner, C.andRoth,J.K.(Eds.).(1993), Di Richardson, T.(2005),Walki Lectures 1996-1999), Communist EastCe and theSpatialAspectsof in urbanMalta,Ethons, Collective Remembering European University Press. University Press, pp.:242-243. Row. University of California Press. Suffering, Verso. Erzsébetváros, & Unwin. Macmillan. 44 (1):13-33. York: ParagonHouse. TÉT, The CollectiveMemory ntral Europe,in: edited byKovacs,Andras, XX., pp.73-92. TheElementary Forms ofReligiousLife ng Streets,TalkingHistory:The MakingofOdessa, vol. 63,pp.81-101. IdentitiesinBudapest, Anthropolis. , pp.1-22.London:Sage. caust Industry:Reflections on szeghy, L.andTomay, K.,(2006),

reinventing JewishcultureinEurope, Jewish StudiesattheCEU:I.Yearbook(Public hotography, NarrativeandPostmemory, el :aguidetoEast-CentralEurope, Transformations inLeisureandTravel, fferent Voices-Women andtheHolocaust, Communities andJewishIdentities inPost- ng Alternatives: Mapping JewishSubcultures 60 New York:ColumbiaUniversityPress New [1951]. NewYorkandLondon:Harper

Budapest: CEU. theExploitationofJewish Memory andsocialidentity

. London: Renewal ofInner Kennan Institute. Northvale Berkley: George Allen Ethnology London: . Harvard Harvard .

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CITYRAMA SightseeingTours,(2008),Jewish CITYRAMA Zandberg, E., (2006),CriticalLaughter:Humor, Ungváry, K.,(1998),BudapestOstroma ( Young, J.E.,(1993),TheTextureof Memory. Holocaust,Memorials andMeaning Voase, R.,(2007),Individualism andthe'new Verdery, K.,(1999),ThePoliticalLives ofDeadBodies, Urry, J.,(1990),TheTouristGaze, Svasek, M.,(2006),Postsocialism: Politicsan Stier, O.B.,(2003),CommittedtoMemory: CulturalMediations oftheHolocaust, EUrama SightseeingTours,(2008),Jewish AVIV Travel,(2008),TheJewishTria Online Program Centrum TravelAgency,(2008),BudapestSightseeing2008/2009:Programmes, Hidden TreasureToursLtd., (2007),Visitthe EUrama SightseeingTours( SightseeingTours,(2008),SightseeingBudapest,Hungary. CITYRAMA Brochures http://www.cityrama.hu/_/index.php?module=egyszeru&katid=58 Commemoration, Budapest. Haven andLondon:YaleUniversityPress. Berghahn Books. of Massachusetts Press, control andchoice, http://www.aviv.hu/index.php?option=com_c excursions, Budapest,Hungary. Hungary. Hungary. http://www.eurama.hu/index.php?m

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pp.: 110-150. London: Sage. ngle, RetrievedApril15,2008,from: odule=staticpage&id=25&lang=1 in English:TheBattleforBudapest), Corvina Budapest,RetrievedApril28,2008,from: 61 Jewish QuarterofBudapest, tourism of ConsumerStudies,. Budapest,RetrievedApril12,2008,from: PopularCulturea d Emotions inCentralandEasternEurope, ontent&task=view&id=14&Itemid=29 Vol. 28(4):561-579. ': Aperspectiveonemulation, personal Columbia UniversityPress. Budapest 2008-09,Budapest, nd IsraeliHolocaust Vol 31(5),pp.541-547.

. New University

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Program Centrum TravelAgency,(2008),TourofJewishBudapest,RetrievedApril15,2008, Hungária KoncertKft.,(2008),Je Hidden TreasureToursLtd., (2008),JewishQu Jewish Visitor’sService,(2008),PrivateGuides 2008, from: from: http://www.programcentrum.hu/hu/prfrom: http://www.ticket.info.hu/index.php?module=staticpage&id=156&lang=1from: May, 3,2008,from: http://www.greatsynagogue.hu/JQT_meeting.html http://www.totallyjewishtravel. wish CulturalHeritagein 62 arter Walking Tours,RetrievedMarch28, for JewishBudapest and Hungary,Retrieved ogramok/budapest_nappal/zsido_budapest com/tours/heritage/item_687 Budapest, RetrievedMay3,2008,