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Home , Bread, Khubz, Mansaf, Musakhan

Table Talk

The Discussion:

Dec. 2017 Arab-American & Issue #1

Table of Contents

Top Ten Arab-American Street pg. 5-6 Table Talk with Arab Students pg. 7-10 ‘A beautiful ride’ pg. 11-14 How to Make: BREAD pg. 16-18 Around The Table pg. 20 Quick & Easy RECIPES pg. 21-22

Table Talk 2 This issue of Table Talk will focus on Arab American food and culture in the United States. Food is often the fastest way to connect with other people and , and Arab Dear Americans have an abundance of food to share with the rest of the United States. We hope to further normalize the pres- ence of Arab Americans through food, so that they may not Readers, be seen as outsiders or “others” anymore. Many of the dishes we discuss in this magazine have survived time and travel. Even after crossing the Atlantic Ocean, the dishes have maintained their cultural integrity. At the home, Arab families have had to adapt their dishes because of a lack of availability of traditional Middle Eastern ingredi- ents. Meanwhile, restaurant owners have capitalized on the American love of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean foods and have tweaked some of these dishes to be more appealing to the American palette.

3 The stories we have collected for this issue come from a wide range of voices. Arab American students talk about the Lastly, we want to thank the people who have shared their foods they miss from home, be that an hour drive or a four- experiences and culture with us. This special issue would teen-hour flight away. Restaurant and shop owners tell us not have been possible without their openness and gener- their stories and how they have walked the fine line between osity. maintaining cultural authenticity and running a successful business. One reluctant mother divulges some secret family With gratitude, recipes, so that everyone can have a bit of the in their kitchens.

We hope the images, recipes and stories we share with you give you a look into this important part of the Arab American community. We seek to demonstrate that there is so much more to this community than what has been showcased in American media throughout history.

Table Talk 4 Photo by Hannah Kim. Original photos for this magazine have been provided by Hannah Kim.

Top Ten Arab-American Street Foods by Rashaan Ayesh

Falafel This is a delicious chickpea that is as common ٢ ,Traced back to the days of the pharaohs in Egypt ١ are now found on almost every street corner in the homes of Arab Americans as . Different in the Middle East. A is basically a fried ball of people will make it (or buy it) differently according to beans. In Egypt, falafels are made with fava beans and their own tastes. Some may put more or red pep- are actually called ta-amiya. Most Arabs will prefer the per for a little kick. However, they are all a variation of chickpea falafel. The best have a little bit of chickpeas, , garlic, lemon juice, , and inside making the center a light green. Some people . Many people will sprinkle on actually mix the fava and chickpeas. top, but oil is always a must.

Grilled -This is a Levantine style dish, but it is popular through ٤ This white cheese is a mixture of goat and sheep’s ٣ . It’s tangy, salty and every bit delicious. Hallou- out the Middle East. There is a long block of mi has an extremely high melting point for a cheese so (chicken or beef) that rotates along an open heat. As it’s perfect for grilling or frying. Some people enjoy it rotates, the meat is shaved off before falling into a eating it as is. The best way to eat halloumi is to put plate. Some people enjoy eating the meat with maybe it in some pita bread with tomatoes and Middle East- a side of . The most popular way is to roll it up into ern pickles, and then putting it on a press. The a with an assortment of shredded cheese melts just enough so that each bite is trailed by and pickles. Restaurants will throw in tahini or hum- a gooey bridge of cheese. Yet, inside the sandwich, the mus. Shawarma is somewhat similar to a Greek gyro. halloumi maintains its shape. However, the bread is thinner and the meat has a dif- ferent softer texture.

5 Ful Mudammas Tormos Tormos is for lupini beans. And in case it wasn’t ٦ ,This is a hot dish of mashed up fava beans with garlic ٥ tomatoes, lemon and salt. The only way to eat this dish very obvious, Arabs really do love beans. There are of course is with hot pita bread. This is probably one so many different legumes to be found in the Middle of the least involved dishes to make, so look over to East that are incorporated in so many different ways. our Recipes to see how. The best part about ful mu- However, with tormos, they are simply soaked in wa- dammas, and like everything else on this list, it can ter overnight, and salt is added. This is very much so be eaten at anytime. None of these dishes are strictly a snack that can be picked up from a street stall or at a , lunch or dinner. small festival.

Ka’ak bel Semsem Ghanoush This is kind of similar to hummus and kind of not. It ٨ Ka’ak bel semsem is well baked bread with ٧ sprinkled along the top. Ka’ak is actually a pretty is very easy to mix these two dishes up on the table universal word that can speak to both salty and sweet though. They look very similar, except variations of the bread. In downtown Amman, men will is made with and tahini. There is in- be selling this bread off of wooden carts with various volved of course. This is also a dish that is often eaten eggs, cheeses and jams. Ka’ak bel semsem is probably with pita bread. Some people do pick at it with a fork if the American equivalent of . the taste is too much for them.

Manakeesh Knafeh Knafeh is actually a desert. Arabs really do love cheese ١٠ This should not be called the Middle Eastern , or ٩ described as such. That is a very It’s actually pretty in because this is a cheese based dessert. The Nabulsi tune with Middle Eastern foods since it involves bread cheese, which is usually from , is soaked in and various toppings. It’s a warm piece of a sugary syrup before being blanketed with an equal- often cooked in a woodfire . Don’t trust it if it’s ly sweet layer. The pastry is either shredded or not. There are about three main different toppings, packed on top. That is totally a matter of personal pref- even though you could technically put anything. They erence. Knafeh is also topped of with . Most are ground beef, cheeses or herbs (zaatar). In the Middle Eastern deserts involve nuts or cheese. mornings, some people might even bring their own toppings and ask the to throw them on, such as eggs.

Table Talk 6 Table Talk with Arab Students

Marissa O’Neill and Elizabeth Comtois talk with UNC students about Arab food and whether the restaurants near campus satisfy.

Year: Senior Majors: Physics and psychology First Favorite Arab Dish: Hummus falafel Key Ingredients: Chickpeas and lemon juice Significance: “It’s kind of like a childhood thing. Second Favorite Dish: Jew’s mallow Key Ingredients: Molokhia leaves, roasted chicken, rice Arab Food in the Triangle: He liked Jasmine Med- iterranean on Franklin Street before it was closed down. Their Raleigh locations are still open. What he misses the most: While he noted that there are so many things he misses, Jew’s mallow is a top contender because the key ingredient is only grown in the Middle East. He also misses the Palestinian na- tional dish which is made with bread, a from pomegranates, roasted chicken and . Saif Meyhar, Palestinian from

7 Year: Junior Majors: Journalism and public policy First Favorite Arab Dish: Stuffed leaves Key Ingredients: Rice and vegetables wrapped in grape leaves Significance: “Stuffed grape leaves take a long time to make, so we all really appreciate it when somebody takes the time to do it.” Second Favorite Arab Dish: Mastoul Key Ingredients: cooked in a sauce with chickpeas Significance: It’s a common Palestinian dish Arab Food in the Triangle: She doesn’t like to eat in Arab restaurants in the Triangle because they often are not very authentic.

Ayan Ajeen, Palestinian from Wilmington, NC

Year: Senior Majors: Biology and public policy Favorite Arab Dish: Key Ingredients: Rice platter with lamb and (Arabic flatbread) drenched in sauce Significance: Mansaf is not easy to come across in restaurants, so Riziq enjoys it exclusively at home once or twice a month. It’s the go-to dish for large family gatherings, especially for traditional weddings. Arab Food in the Triangle: Riziq finds GRK YEERO on Franklin Street affordable and authentic; he espe- cially likes its shawarma. He remarks that many people only experience Arab food at restaurants, so they have no point of reference when tasting the dishes. “Some- one who’s Arab who knows the will be able to tell if a dish tastes how it’s supposed to.” Riziq Fattah, Palestinian from Wilson, NC

Table Talk 8 “No matter what hardships Middle Eastern people face, one thing they can take with them is their food. It’s one of the ways you learn about your home and identity. Arabs have lost a lot over the years, but the one thing we won’t lose is our identities.”

– Fouad Abu Hijleh

Year: First Year Intended Major: Biostatistics Favorite Arab Dish: Tunisian mlukhiyah Key Ingredients: Ground leaves of the mlukhiyah plant (commonly called Jew’s mallow), meat, oil and Significance: “The recipe has been passed down through many generations in my family as my mom learned how to make mlukhiyah from her mother, and her from her mother, and so on. Each Tunisian family makes the dish a little differently, so no two mlukhi- yahs taste the same.” It’s usually made during holidays like New Year’s or for special life events like buying a house. Arab Food in the Triangle: Nour doesn’t have a fa- vorite Arab restaurant since they usually cater to Mid- dle Eastern cuisine rather than that of . Nour Zarrouk, Tunisian from Raleigh, NC During her time in Chapel Hill, Nour has learned that vary greatly across and within Arab countries.

9 Year: Junior Majors: Nutrition and psychology First Favorite Arab Dish: Mansaf Key Ingredients: Bread, rice, yogurt-based , meat (usually goat or beef), parsley and pine nuts Significance: The dish is originally Jordanian but has spread to the rest of the Levant region. It’s typically made when a family is having a lot of people over, like after a wedding or other big event. “It’s not like ‘Oh, what do you want for dinner today?’, it’s like ‘Oh, you made Mansaf. I’m coming over,’” said Ajeen. Second Favorite Arab Dish: Stuffed grape leaves Key Ingredients: Rice and vegetables wrapped in grape leaves Arab Food in the Triangle: She doesn’t like to go out to eat for Arab food. Rawan Ajeen, Palestinian from Wilmington, NC

Year: Sophomore Major: Chemistry Favorite Arab Dish: Stuffed grape leaves Key Ingredients: , ground beef, cooked grape leaves, served with sliced potatoes, lamb chops and stuffed zucchini Significance: The recipe’s been passed down from generation to generation, with Fouad’s grandma act- ing as the master chef. Because of its time-intensive nature, the dish is a specialty that’s made each time Fouad and his family return to Jordan during winter break. Arab Food in the Triangle: Fouad enjoys the familiar foods sold at Mediterranean Deli, but he notes that the restaurant groups together very different cultures un- der one name. He sees the Western world’s significant influence on Arab cuisine in America, as restaurants Fouad Abu Hijleh, Palestinian from Jordan like Mediterranean Deli in Chapel Hill and Sitti in downtown Raleigh alter the names and recipes of tra- ditional Arab dishes.

Table Talk 10 ‘A beautiful ride’by Elizabeth Comtois

Before its doors even opened for the day, Mediterranean hotel industry – he was transferred to North Carolina from Deli was teeming with energy. Handmade pita bread was Minnesota while working for the Sheraton Hotel, where he , display cases brimming with countless dishes were began as a dish washer. Many promotions later, Jamil ad- being organized, and employees were chatting and laugh- vanced to director of food and beverage in the hotel. The ing while taking stock. Amid the many preparations under- aspiring entrepreneur fell in love with the inclusive, wel- way that Monday morning, Med Deli founder and owner coming atmosphere of Chapel Hill, and in the town he saw Jamil Kadoura did not hesitate in sitting down to speak with the perfect opportunity to set up shop. me about his restaurant. The first few years were not a walk in the park, though. Swift Openings and Risky Beginnings Jamil worked open to close most days, sometimes from 4 a.m. to 11 a.m. the next morning. Although the long hours Jamil opened Mediterranean Deli on West Franklin Street were necessary to keep the restaurant afloat, Jamil couldn’t in 1992 with his wife, mother and sister. Since then, the complain. “The work meant more to me than in previous restaurant has expanded six times, including moving loca- jobs because it was an opportunity for me to celebrate my tions down the street and building upon its current store- culture.” front. Jamil discovered Chapel Hill from his work in the

11 Jamil was well aware that his restaurant was a risk. Med Deli introduced to the Chapel Hill public something unknown: the Arab diet. Adapted to the desert climate, the cuisine incorporates more vegetables and (especially dried) and less meat. For Jamil, though, these were dishes he’s known all his life. Chapel Hill’s unfamiliarity with the cui- sine led Jamil to the broad name of “Mediterranean Deli,” which encompasses many different regions, countries and cultures. The name cast a broad net and captured a greater customer base, which was crucial to the new restaurant’s success in the competitive Franklin Street market.

Adapting Dishes

According to Jamil, Med Deli customers flock to the falafel, hummus, cheese and tabouli, followed by green and stuffed grape leaves. These items are traditionally Arab in nature, but they’ve been adapted in Med Deli’s recipes for the Chapel Hill public. Jamil noted the significant dif- ferences within , particularly the differences between European and Middle Eastern origin. Med Deli includes both, such as making Greek stuffed grape leaves made with onions and Lebanese stuffed grape leaves made with tomatoes. Middle Eastern Mediterranean is where Jamil has his roots.

The dishes customers eat at Med Deli are altered from how Jamil has grown up eating them. While customers order falafel and hummus for any meal, they’re traditionally eaten exclusively for breakfast in the Arab culture. When Jamil eats hummus at home, he adds more garlic, lemon juice and olive oil than is in Med Deli’s hummus. The dishes under- went continuous tweaking as Jamil learned his customers’ preferences and tastes overtime. Early on, Jamil knew he was catering an unfamiliar diet, so he accepted the reality that not all customers were going to love every dish in its traditional form.

The has increased in popularity with support from the scientific community. Applying the busi-

Table Talk 12 “Food is essential to life, but it also gives people the hope to live a second day. ...It brings us together.” ness skills he learned in the hotel industry, Jamil stayed on on the Elon University campus this upcoming January. top of health and diet trends for the restaurant to always be Jamil expressed much thanks to his general manager, who one step ahead of the game. Back in the ‘90s, Jamil cap- is thrilled to serve as GM at the Elon location. italized on the emerging -free trend and opened a gluten-free beneath the Med Deli location that dis- A Greater Purpose: Med Deli in the Community tributes products nationally. When asked which community organizations Med Deli A Growing Business serves, Jamil remarked that the easier question is which or- ganizations does Med Deli not serve. The restaurant hosts Med Deli gradually expanded its presence in the Chapel major fundraisers for those affected by environmental or Hill community. On the UNC-Chapel Hill campus, Med political disasters. A fundraiser for the Haiti earthquake Deli can be found in Lenoir Hall Monday through Friday, relief raised $18,000 in one day, and one for the Pakistani the medical school on Tuesdays and Thursdays, and the flood relief raised more than $17,000. This year alone, a business school once a week. Jamil noted that Med Deli Syrian refugee fundraiser for six families raised more than was brought to the UNC Campus as a healthy alternative $25,000 in two hours. Med Deli hosted a buffet dinner at to other dining options for students. Outside of the Chap- the restaurant, and community members met the families in el Hill circle, Med Deli travels around the state for various person. Jamil makes a point to develop relationships with catering events, ranging from Bar Mitzvahs, to weddings, Chapel Hill community organizations, such as churches, to business meetings. In its newest development, Med Deli mosques, university groups like Table, the Ronald McDon- will open a full-service storefront location in Elon, N.C., ald House and the Orange County Rape Crisis Center, just

13 to name a few. At an annual reception for UNC-CH cam- proud of in his business. The altruistic component reflects pus organization Table, Med Deli helped raised more than the Middle Eastern culture in which he was raised, one $5,000 to feed more than one thousand children. marked by kindness and generosity. In return, Jamil is over- whelmed and humbled by the support he’s received from The community culture comes from Jamil’s own experience the Chapel Hill community. The month after the 9/11 ter- in a refugee camp as a child. Jamil grew up at the height rorist attack became the restaurant’s busiest month since of the Palestinian-Israeli war; at age 7, he and his family its opening. Why? Chapel Hill community members ex- members fled to a refugee camp near the city of Nablus tended their support for Jamil and the restaurant during the called Rafedya in 1967. The refugees were met with very tense and stressful time, one in which the climate toward poor conditions, where sickness and death were rampant, Middle Eastern Americans became strained and hostile. tents were fashioned from blankets and food was scarce. The food they did receive was bread, olives and feta cheese. At the end of the day, it’s the loving, community focus that Jamil noted that there was no relief organization present to firmly roots Med Deli’s culture. “Food is essential to life, help the refugees. Thankfully Jamil only spent three weeks but it also gives people the hope to live a second day,” re- in the refugee camp, but that time defined his interest in flects Jamil. “It brings us together.” helping those in need, especially those in areas devastated by political, economic or environmental upheaval.

Today, Jamil brings his passion for community service to Med Deli. Giving back to the community is what he’s most

Table Talk 14 15 How to Make: PITA BREAD with Mohammed Hraish by Hannah Suyun Kim

Mohammed adds water, , , salt and into an industrial , which kneads the 1. dough for about 15 minutes.

The kneaded dough is then cut into more manageable chunks 2. and shaped into round balls.

Table Talk 16 About Mohammed Hraish:

After working for a pizza company in Chicago for about a year, It has been 14 years since Jerusalem Bakery opened, and Mo- Mohammed Hraish decided that he wanted to open up his own hammed now works with several and employees to run the business. Mohammed, the son of a baker, wanted to follow in the shop. Jerusalem Bakery is known for its freshly baked pita bread footsteps of his father and open his own bakery. His father had and delicious Middle Eastern and sweets at affordable started his own bakery back at home in Palestine in 1947. Mo- prices. A minimum of 3,168 pieces of pita bread are produced hammed visited his sister in Raleigh and liked that life was calmer daily to meet high demands. Though his work is physically strenu- and quieter in the Triangle. He went to a mosque in the area to ous, Mohammed said that he takes it as a form of exercise and that talk to some people there about opening an Arab bakery, and they he loves his business. loved the idea. He then went on to find a unit (that used to be a video store) in Mission Valley, and began renovating the space.

Mohammed then presses each ball into a mold 3. that is placed under a machine that divides each dough ball into 36 equally sized pieces. Each piece makes one pita bread.

These smaller dough balls are placed into a ma- 4. chine that rolls out the pieces into the classic, flat disk pita shape.

17 As pita bread is supposed to be flat, there is no need to proof the dough. The disks are 5. placed onto a slow conveyor belt that runs through the oven heat. The baked bread then comes out of the other side of the oven.

The freshly baked bread is left to cool before 6. being bagged.

The pita bread is bagged to sell. Jerusalem 7. bakery also sells whole- pita bread for a healthier option.

Table Talk 18 19 Around The Table: Need-to-know Arabic Phrases

“Bis-mill-ah” “Law-sa-maht” “Mar-ha-ba” “Shuk-ran” in the name of God please hello / hi thank you

This phrase is traditionally “Law-sa-maht” is used This word is a very casual If someone hands you a dish said at the beginning of a when talking to males, and way of saying hello to any- or compliments you, then meal. Think of it as saying “law-sa-mahti” is used when one. Try to use it with peo- you will probably want to grace but kind of shorthand- talking to females. It is a ple in the same age group, know how to say thank you. ed. It doesn’t necessarily general “please” or “if you or with people you are ex- “Shuk-ran” is the simplest have a religious connotation don’t mind,” and it is a very tremely familiar with. way to to convey that, and as much as cultural. polite way to show respect. it can be used in any setting with anyone.

Culture & Customs

In Arabic culture, hospitality is a highly regarded virtue. Hosts will often insist that you have at least a drink, if not a meal. Rejecting the initial offer of food or drink is a customary practice to show the host that you have come for the company, not just for the drinks or food. After this first offer, it is respectful to accept the meal or drink the host has prepared. Addition- ally, come bearing a gift for your host as a sign of your gratefulness. Enjoy and “bis-mill-ah!”

Table Talk 20 Quick & Easy RECIPES

Green Beans with Tomato Sauce Baked Chicken & Vegetables

Ingredients: Ingredients:

½ , diced 1 whole chicken 3 tablespoons of olive oil ½ cup of baby carrot 7-9 pieces of cubed beef 3-4 diced potatoes 1 ½ – 2 lbs of green beans ½ cup of mushrooms 6 oz (one can) of tomato paste 1 onion 3-4 cloves of garlic 3-4 cloves of garlic

Directions: Directions:

In a pot, cook the diced onion on medium heat On a oven-safe pan, place the chicken, carrots, until olive oil begins to boil. potatoes, mushrooms, onions and garlic.

Place the cubed beef in the pot and let simmer. Sprinkle the meat and vegetables with salt, pep- per and a seven Middle Eastern spice combina- While the meat is cooking, cut the green beans tion. You can by this at your local Middle Eastern into small quarters and add it to the pot. market.

Add the tomato paste to the pot mixture and let Cover the pan in aluminum foil and bake in the the flavors mingle as they cook. oven for two hours.

In a separate pan, fry the garlic cloves and add When ready, serve and enjoy. them to the pot once they are a light brown.

When the meat is fully cooked, serve over rice.

21 Cucumber with Yogurt Salad Soup

Ingredients: Ingredients:

32 fl oz of plain yogurt ½ onion, diced 4 small cucumbers 1 ½ cup of orange 3-4 cloves of garlic ½ peeled potato Mint leaves for garnish 3-4 carrots Salt to taste Salt, pepper and cumin to taste A wedge of lemon

Directions: Directions:

Dice the cucumbers. In a pot with oil, place the diced onion and cook on medium heat. Combine the diced cucumbers with the yogurt. Mix well. Mix the orange lentils into the pot.

Combine minced garlic and salt into mixture. After lentil fully cook, add the potato and carrot to the pot. Mix with salt, pepper and cumin. Serve cold with mint on top. When the mixture is fully cooked, pour it into a blender to blend.

Once blended, pour the soup in the pot to reheat, and serve with lemons.

Table Talk 22