Magazine It’S February, and It’S Time for Alasita

Home , Ekeko

Express BolivianFree Distribution Issue 15 Magazine It’s February, and it’s time for Alasita. Welcome to the toy-town of Bolivian beliefs, and a uniquely An- dean New Year festivity. Alasita, the annual miniature models fair in La Paz, is a joyous and lively celebration that both encapsulates Bolivians’ diverse past and, many believe, holds the key to their future. The word ’Alasita’ derives from the Aymara language, meaning ’buy me‘, and, as Patrick Dowling investi- gates on p10, the fair is characterised by commerce in miniatures of all kinds. But it doesn’t end there. Eating well is an equally important festival feature, which Helena Cavell indulges in on p18. Nevertheless (and not unlike Christmas), beyond the consumption of all things material and culinary there is a deeper spiritual tradition at work. The festival’s origins are in part symbolised through the Santa Claus–like figure of the Ekeko, an Andean god whose significance is explored by Matthew Grace on p8.

But is it really just Andean belief? Controversy surrounds the interpretation of contemporary Bolivian customs that are the result of Andean and Catholic syncretism. Alasita and the Ekeko legend would not be complete without reference to the role that the Spanish invaders played in shaping these traditions. The extent to which the belief systems have become amalgamated is illustrated by Patrick Dowling’s investi- gation into the Bolivian Virgin Mary on p6. Some post-colonial cultural theorists are worried by that fact that FOLLOW US many modern practices, which today are simply accepted as Bolivian, are in fact the result of a legacy BOLIVIAN EXPRESS @BOLIVIANEXPRESS of suppression that has quashed the original Andean customs. Camilla Swift takes a look at one these practices, that of the Bolivian Kallawayas, or traditional healers (p4), who only recently have been able to live a fragile revival.

WWW.BOLIVIANEXPRESS.ORG Nonetheless, it seems simplistic to reduce modern Bolivian culture to ’pure‘ or original beliefs versus bas- tardised customs. Bolivia today is a country that has developed away from the inferiority complex of the colonised: Alasita and the Ekeko are not Spanish traditions. In Spain, New Year’s resolutions are made whilst eating 12 grapes at each clock stroke of midnight. In Bolivia, the purchasing of miniature models at Alasita Fair gives material reality to people’s hopes for the year to come. Alasita is not about squabbling over entangled origins, but about new resolve and faith in the future. EDITORIAL

Happy Alasita, and Happy New Year, from Bolivian Express.

Several Spanish and Aymara words are marked in bold throughout this issue. By Xenia Elsaesser N.B. Their meanings can be found in our glossary

SCATTERING SEEDS: CATHOLICISM p.6 AND THE PACHAMAMA

EKEKO p.8

HONEY, I SHRUNK A FESTIVAL p.10

NOMADIC HEALING

CONTENTS p.12

ALASITA p.14

Directors: Amaru Villanueva Rance, Jack Kinsella, Xenia Elsaesser, Ivan Rodriguez Petkovic, Sharoll Fernandez. Editors: Xenia Elsaesser, Matthew Grace. Web and legal: Jack Kinsella. Printing and Advertising Manager: Ivan Rodriguez Petkovic. Social and Cultural Coordinator: Sharoll Fernandez. Design: Michael Dunn Caceres CULTURAL CALENDAR p.17 Journalists: Helena Cavell, Patrick Dowling, Camilla Swift, Matthew Grace Our Cover: Patrick Dowling. Marketing: Jack Kinsella. The Bolivian Express would like to thank: Fernando Molina, Daniel Viveros, Rodrigo Barrenechea. Advertise with us: ivan.rp@bolivianex- Bolivian Express press.org. Address: Express Press, Edificio Quipus, 5to piso, Pasaje Jauregui. Grupo Express Press CORNUCOPIA OF Join Us: Mob. 77766791- 70503533 CULINARY DELIGHTS p.18 La Paz – Bolivia, www.bolivianexpress.org February - March 2012 :Bolivian Express @Bolivianexpress ALTIPLANO The Andean high plateau surrounding La Paz

API A thick, wheat-based drink

CARNAVAL Bolivian Carnival

CHUSPA Colourful woven medicine bags

Andean god of abundance and fertility, represented as a miniature EKEKO figurine bearing gifts

FRITANGA Thick, slightly spicy pork stew

FUTBOLÍN Table football

INCENSARIO Pot used by a Yatiri in religious ceremonies and to burn incense in.

KALLAWAYA Nomadic Andean healers

MATE Herbal tea

PACEÑO Person from La Paz

PACHAMAMA Aymara and Quechua Mother Earth

WAKA Sacred hill where spiritual energy is concentrated

YATIRI Aymara religious figure, or shaman SCATTERING

Pachamama Has Provided Fertile Ground for the Growth of Catholicism in Bolivia SEEDSTEXT: PATRICK DOWLING

oming from a Catho- tion to it. And the Spanish, even at the integration, the combining of Spanish lic high-school back- height of their power, were never quite and indigenous culture. ground, I thought I’d able to stop the sun from rising, or the It is, though, an uneasy synthesis, with find plenty of common earth from producing food. plenty of disagreement as to how the ground with the peo- Virgin and Pachamama actually fit ple of Bolivia. After all, So the Spaniards had to adopt a differ- together. Dr. Cajias maintains that al- about 95 percent of ent plan of attack. As Dr. Cajias says, though indigenous belief is superim- Bolivia’s population professes the Cath- ‘The missionaries realised they couldn’t posed on Catholicism in Bolivia, the two olic faith. But 85 percent of Bolivians are completely destroy the indigenous be- systems are still distinct. ‘It is not a fusion. Cof indigenous descent, with ancestors lief after struggling to force Catholicism There is not a temple for the Virgin Mary who worshipped Aymara, Quechuan, on the people. They then decided to and Pachamama,’ Dr. Cajias says. ‘It is and other pre-Hispanic deities. The in- mix Catholic beliefs and figures with simply a symbiosis, because each has fluence of indigenous belief still rever- native beliefs and figures.’ At the cent- its own role in society.’ And for the most berates today, even in the Catholic er of this syncretism are Pachamama part, the two have remained separate. Church. It’s particularly evident in the and the Virgin Mary. Pachamama is an ‘People in Bolivia believe in Jesus Christ Bolivian portrayal of the Virgin Mary. Aymara and Quechuan word loosely and follow Catholic teachings, but they meaning ‘Mother Earth.’ The Andean also adhere to their ancestors’ original The Catholic Church has always por- people saw Pachamama as a mother Andean beliefs.’ trayed the Virgin Mary as chaste, of who gave them food, water, and all course, and Jesus Christ as being born of nature. She was considered a fertile But Father Bravo disagrees with the without sexual corruption. But in Bolivia, mother because of the fertile land. And separate but equal belief. ‘The Church far from being simply the remote and the Catholic figure most resembling a in Bolivia has presented Mother Earth largely silent figure portrayed in Europe- caring mother? The Virgin Mary. as a creation of God,’ he says. ‘Pach- an Catholicism, the Virgin Mary is often amama is so important in the people’s seen as an active and beneficent di- With this the new strategy in place, belief that it can not be ignored, but Pa- vine being. It is not uncommon to see a Catholicism slowly took root. Outside chamama was created by God, and is student ask the Virgin for a good grade Cochabamba, in the town of Quillacol- not a separate goddess.’ In other words, on a test, or to hear a helpless romantic lo, the Festival of Urkupiña is held every the Church accepts the people’s love ask the Virgin for intercession in a star- August, celebrating the fusion of the of Mother Earth because being grateful crossed romance. The Virgin Mary is Virgin Mary and Pachamama. The sto- to Mother Earth is being grateful to God. not just a distant religious figure whose ry of this mingling of two cultures dates ‘The Second Vatican Council recog- only role in Catholicism was giving birth back to pre-colonial times, when the nised that we have to reach people in to Christ; here, she takes center stage indigenous people of the Cochabam- different ways,’ Father Bravo continues. and ‘acts as the Mother of the People’, ba Valley would make offerings to a ‘Bolivian priests are able to understand says Father Ivan Bravo, the vicar of the waca—a sacred hill where spiritual the traditions because we come from Montículo parish in La Paz. energy is concentrated—where Quil- them, and are able to reach the peo- lacollo now sits. This particular waca ple because of it.’ Open-mindedness But why is that? The answer can be was revered for its female energy, and and creativity are helping Catholicism traced back to the introduction of Ca- devotees would make offerings to the stay strong in Bolivia. tholicism in Bolivia. When the Spanish Pachamama there. invaded the Americas, they brought Father Bravo uses the Parable of the with them their Catholic religion, forc- Then, in the late 18th century, when Farmer Scattering Seed, from the Book ing it upon the indigenous people. But Spanish colonialism was in full bloom of Mark, to illustrate Pachamama’s sig- the people, devout to their own gods, and the Catholic Church was trying to nificance to Catholicism. Jesus tells the resisted these advances. ‘The Span- make inroads among the native popu- story of a farmer who throws seeds on ish were able to eliminate the natives’ lation, a young indigenous shepherd girl different surfaces. The seeds thrown on temples, but they couldn’t eliminate was approached by an apparition of rocky soil sprout but then wither in the their beliefs,’ asserts historian Dr. Fern- the Virgin Mary on the waca. The next sun, and the seeds thrown among ando Cajias. The Aymara and the day, when she returned to the hill with thorns are choked out from the sun- Quechua, the dominant tribes in the her parents, the Virgin appeared once light. Only the seeds sown in fertile Bolivian highlands (the altiplano) based again. The girl shouted, ‘Ork’hopiña! soil grow and yield crops. In Bolivia, their faith on the natural world, holding Ork’hopiña!’—‘She’s already on the the seeds of God’s message must the sun, the earth, and the water as hill,’ in Quechua. Since then, the Festival combine with the fertile, fecund, and sacred, and worshipped deities that of Urkupiña is held every year, celebrat- ancient Mother Earth—like Jesus in represented them. The earth provided ing not only the Virgin and her Pach- Mary’s womb—in order to yield a suc- for them, so they had a strong connec- amama predecessor, but also national cessful crop of Catholic Bolivians. 6 ast a look into many inspired in the people, so they cap- star of the Festival of Alasita, and now Bolivian homes, and tured him and cut him into many some are appropriating the Ekeko’s you’ll likely spot a pieces, which they scattered across traditional macho aspect and giving small, moustachioed the land so that the Ekeko could not it a feminist spin. Mujeres Creando, ceramic figurine come back to life. a women’s collective located in La called an Ekeko. These Paz’s Sopocachi neighborhood, has C jolly-looking statuettes But the Ekeko didn’t die. In fact, his introduced a female Ekeka to be de- resemble small men in Andean attire beneficence toward all, even to- buted at this year’s Festival of Alasita. with enormous smiles, and they usu- ward the Spanish, would provide his This figure is a representation of the ally bear accessories that represent lasting legend. In 1781, during an in- cholita, the indigenous female arche- goods people want to obtain in the digenous insurrection led by Tupac type that dominates the altiplano. It coming year. They represent a pre- Katari, an Aymara army surrounded shows the burdens that women car- Colombian god of fertility and abun- La Paz and laid siege to it for six ry—including, in some depictions, a dance, and they’re typically given months in order to force the hated drunk male—in addition to the mate- to newlyweds and people who are Spanish occupier out. A young sol- rial goods they provide. moving into a new house, in order to dier in Katari’s army snuck across bless them and ensure prosperity in lines into the city to visit his paramour, But far from being a radical reinterpre- the future. who was a servant in a Spanish offic- tation of folklore, the Ekeka might be er’s household. While everyone else a rediscovery of ancient beliefs. Some While the provenance of the Ekeko in the city was starving, the young researchers have recently unearthed figure is obscured in history, some soldier delivered food to her daily in legends that indicate there was once scholars date it back to the Tiwa- secret, laying it in front of the girl’s a female Ekeka god, one also worshi- naku culture, which was dominant Ekeko figurine. The Spanish officer, ped for fertility, abundance, and pros- in southern Peru, northern Chile, witnessing the appearance of food perity. It would make sense, as Ayma- and western Bolivia over a thou- every day in front of the Ekeko—and ra belief typically emphasises duality sand years ago. The Ekeko god perhaps willing to cast a blind eye to in nature, stressing the importance of was revered as a phallic symbol, it as long as he received a cut of the both the female and the male. responsible for male fertility. Later, food—popularised the legend of the the Incas adopted the Ekeko, whom Ekeko when the siege was finally lifted, But even as the Ekeko has changed they called Iqiqu. He wandered the and he’s now known to help provide throughout the centuries, one thing altiplano, bringing harmony and for people in need. remains the same: you should never abundance wherever he roamed. purchase an Ekeko for yourself. In the Then the Spanish arrived. Accord- While the Ekeko is now largely de- true spirit of his mythological spirit of ing to legend, they were wary of the nuded of his religious connotations, his giving, the Ekeko only blesses those Ekeko’s power and the devotion he cultural significance abides. He’s the who receive him as a gift.

EText: MatthewK GraceEKO Photo: Terrance Grace

8 tificates.’ Fully armed with the knowl- a gathering of futbolín tables, a popu- human ignorance. But why then where edge of a Bolivian historian, I returned lar section. Having years of experience the streets filled with so many adults, to Alasita the next day to indulge in my playing foosball in my grandparents’ many of whom were clearly educated own desires. I quickly set out to buy a basement during holidays, I thought I business people on their lunch break? miniature new car, stacks of fake mon- would try my luck against a couple of The answer lies in the communal spir- ey and a full set of tiny luggage. I took locals. It was a mistake to say the least, itual tradition. Bolivians don’t buy these my finds to the nearest Yatiri to bless as I was easily defeated 4-1, twice. The miniatures because they are cool look- with coca leaves, incense and alcohol. experience, humbling as it was, felt like ing or funny; but because amulets are Now I had a year to make these things I was reliving part of my childhood all a way of setting goals for the future. a reality. the way in Bolivia. This crazy festival was Alasita allows Bolivians to acknowl- HONEY suddenly making me homesick. edge their desires in an exciting, com- TEXT AND PHOTOS: PATRICK DOWLING Next I set out to experience the carnival munal event. Unlike Catholicism, which , part of the festival. In the rides section, After hearing the ideology behind Ala- preaches the repression of worldly de- a bit further away from the entrance, sita and experiencing the fair firsthand, sires, here, in this crazy festival of mini- I saw more children than at the shops I couldn’t help but question the tra- atures, people are able to voice their on the first day. I encountered a Ferris dition. You buy small, fake money worldly desires without reprimand or wheel, merry-go-round and other rides with life-sized, actual money in hopes guilt. Today’s festival may be devoted that involved some sort of spinning, all that you will become rich? Am I the to a Catholic Virgin in name, but in spirit classic staples of a fair anywhere in the only one not lost in the irony? At first it it remains a celebration of energy, de- world. In the games area I came across seemed to me like a childish display of sire, and Andean abundance.

You buy small, fake money with ‘life sized actual money in hopes I SHRUNK A - , FESTIVAL that you will become rich? Am I the only one not lost in the irony? ‘ olivianos! Dólares! Eu- sorted animal figures. I ask around and sized possessions within the next year. ros!’ shouts the street find that stands sell frogs for good luck, This is achieved by offering your mini- vendor directly in chickens to find a mate and owls to atures to Ekeko, the Andean god of front of me, as similar gain wisdom. To my surprise, the mini- abundance, whose existence dates to cries ring through- ature nature of the festival doesn’t the pre-Colombian era. The concept B out the Sopacachi stop with the food. Tiny baguettes and of this festival, offering miniatures to a ‘ district of La Paz. At palm-sized cakes occupy the pastries god of abundance, dates back even 11:55 the street is swarming with festival section of Alasita. I can’t resist trying the further to the Incan period. However, goers rushing to buy miniatures for the mini-deserts, and find that they taste the original practices were eradicated 12:00 start. To my left, a crowd of peo- as good as the normal-sized ones. My during the Spanish colonisation and in- ple surround a one-stop shop for eve- stomach satisfied, I step back into the troduction of Catholicism. The history of rything tiny: cars, pots of gold, houses, bustling street and collide with a bird- the fair’s development as we know it graduation certificates, alcohol bottles, cage. The owner informs me that, for today is cloudy, but we do know that it luggage and of course, stacks of mon- a small fee of 2 Bs –about $0.30— the has been taking place in La Paz for the ey. To my right, there’s another stand birds will pick out your fortune from a last 240 years. It started when Segurola, selling what appear to be newspapers drawer beneath their cage. While the the mayor of La Paz, converted the the size of napkins and a doll smoking little birds work, my eye spots the first life- feast of the god of abundance into a cigars. Did I enter an episode of the Twi- sized article of the day: a rotund man Catholic celebration. The festival is now light Zone? I step back from the bustling with tools, a miniature car, a flute, and devoted to Nuestra Señora de La Paz. crowd to catch my breath, only to fill other items associated with wealth and my lungs with burning incense. Trying to good fortune hanging from his neck as Today not only do people buy the mini- EVERYONE find the source of the smell, I encounter pots of gold sit at his feet. I read a gold atures in hopes of receiving good for- men and women sitting in the middle sign with the word ‘Ekeko’ (see p8). tune from the Ekeko, but the festival has HAS of the street hunched over incensarios, expanded into a larger cultural institu- DESIRES flower petals, coca leaves, hand bells After sleeping on the unique festival, I tion. Dr. Cajías went on to describe the and bottles of alcohol. At the centre decided to sit down with a Bolivian his- artistic language of the fair: “The arti- the Yatiris chant blessings. These wise torian, Fernando Cajías, to get a bet- sans compete to have their work prized men are dressed in traditional Boliv- ter picture of Alasita. Still very confused and recognised. The miniatures are not ian garb, some displaying crosses from about the meaning and purpose of the just amulets and often become works their necks. Suddenly from above I hear festival, I asked him, ‘What is Alasita?’ of art.’ The festival transgresses simple- a booming noise and jerk my head to which he responded, ‘Alasita is the minded material desires. Newspapers upwards to see a small firework show festival of desires and energy. Everyone sold at Alasita (miniatures, of course) marking the midday hour. Alasita has has desires.’ And there it was, the heart are openly allowed to criticise the gov- begun. and soul of the festival in less than ten ernment. Dr. Cajías also emphasised seconds. He went on to explain that the the ludic language of the fair. ‘There is I wander about to find out what else miniatures are used to represent desires an air of fun and games during the fes- this festival has to offer, only to find that people have. Whether you want tival and within the people. It’s not only more miniatures for sale. The crowd money or love, luck or wisdom, you can buying the miniatures anymore; there consists of mainly adults. How many pursue your desires at Alasita by getting are fake weddings and other perform- Hot Wheel cars do grownups need? I your miniatures blessed by a Yatiri in ances as well. I’ve even had students come across another store selling as- hope that they will become real, life- make me sign their fake marriage cer- 10 11 ravellers only usually encounter Bolivia’s traditional medicine wares at the Mercado de Hechicería, or the Witches’ Market, near Plaza San Francisco in T La Paz. The stalls lining NOMADIC Calle Lineras are heavily laden with a cornucopia of ritual items, including dried llama fetuses and various boxed herbal remedies used to treat everything from rheumatism to stomach pain. However, traditional indigenous medi- HEALING cine in Bolivia dates back millennia, extending far beyond the tourist-laden confines of the Witches’ Market. Travellers only usually encounter Bolivia’s traditional medicine wares at the Mercado de Hechicería, or The Kallawaya, a nomadic group of the Witches’ Market, near Plaza San Francisco in La Andean healers, have a cosmovision Paz. The stalls lining Calle Lineras are heavily laden that incorporates ancestral medical with a cornucopia of ritual items, including dried lla- techniques with a view of humankind ma fetuses and various boxed herbal remedies used and its place in the universe, grounded to treat everything from rheumatism to stomach pain. on devotion to the Pachamama, or However, traditional indigenous medicine in Bolivia dates Mother Earth. The members of this in- back millennia, extending far beyond the tourist-laden digenous ethnic group, based in the confines of the Witches’ Market. mountains north of La Paz, were the of- ficial doctors of the greater Inca state. Their privileged position continued through the Spanish conquest, as the Text: Camilla Swift foreign invaders respected their healing Photo: Michael Dunn skills and medical knowledge.

The Kallawaya use animal and mineral resources to heal, as well as plants, tal- ismans, good-luck charms, and music therapy. Dr. Walter Álvarez Quispe, a fully trained modern medical doctor, is also the executive director of INBOME- TRAKA (the Bolivian Institute for Tradition- al Kallawaya Medicine) and a Kalla- waya with years of healing experience. He says that a Kallawaya can diagnose someone by studying the patient’s eyes and hands. In addition to addressing a patient’s physiological symptoms, a Kallawaya will also treat psychological and social ailments and the environ- ment, including animals, plants, and the Bolivia, with its high altitude, rugged 13 until he was 22, when he started to munities, where patients were treated and their worldview. But with rapid ur- only traditional medicine. The reason is a patient’s home. landscape, and isolated areas of hu- study modern biomedicine. ‘Since a clandestinely. banisation and a population shift to- practical one: traditional remedies are man settlement, offers a unique topog- child, I was obliged to be a Kallawaya ward Bolivia’s cities, modern medicine affordable; modern medicine is not. A The Quechua and Aymara people of raphy and widely varying ecosystems because my grandfather and great- In 1984, traditional medicine was of- is increasingly in use, and the Kalla- typical Kallawaya prescription may be the Andes see themselves as inhabiting from which Kallawaya healers have grandfather were also Kallawaya heal- ficially recognised in Bolivia and a waya are slowly diminishing in number the preparation of a mate infusion made a supernatural universe in which all nat- been able to extend their considerable ers’, he says. ‘First I am a Kallawaya, and governmental ministry of traditional as fewer of their sons learn the tradi- from plants that a farmer most likely al- ural entities—from people and animals knowledge of medicinal plants. With then a [modern] medical specialist.’ medicine was formed. And in 1987, tra- tional skills. ready grows on his land. But even more to plants, mountains, and the earth it- some 980 plant species in the Kalla- ditional medicine supporters were able importantly, the Kallawaya visit their pa- self—are powerful spiritual beings inter- waya pharmacopeia, it rates as one of Kallawaya women—K’awayus—also to gain passage of a law that led to Still, in remote areas throughout Bolivia, tients’ homes. Rural villages rarely have twined in a complex network of mutual the most bountiful in the world. teach the children, and they partici- their own doctors or nurses, and travel- obligation. ‘Every one of us lives bound pate in a number of rites, weave tex- ling miles into a city is rarely possible for by nature’, says Dr. Quispe. ‘Modern From the age of four, young Kalla- tiles, and act as midwives, caring for a poor campesino. For now, despite a medicine may seem to heal quicker, waya learn about plants at home. At pregnant women and babies. ‘ Every one of us lives bound by nature. Modern decline in Kallawaya practitioners, their but natural medicine is still the most 13, they begin to help in the prepara- services are still in much demand. pure. It heals slowly but lasts forever.’ tion of medicines and remedies and, Until quite recently, centuries of repres- medicine may seem to heal quicker, but natural shortly after, they start travelling, taking sion—by both the church and state— But even small villages are becoming The Kallawaya distinguish themselves their prepared medicines with them drove the Kallawaya’s healing arts medicine is still the most pure. It heals slowly increasingly connected to far-away from other Andean ethnic groups by and learning different languages along underground. For years, the Bolivian but lasts forever ’ places and ideas, and very soon accul- their constant travelling. From their iso- the way. Young Kallawaya are always government wouldn’t allow the forma- turation of the patients will be another lated homeland of Bautista Saavedra, accompanied by older, more experi- tion of traditional medicine institutions. threat to the Kallawaya tradition. And north of La Paz, the Kallawaya have enced mentors, who teach them and Only trained doctors and biomedics that’s where INBOMETRAKA sees its mis- ventured all over Bolivia and into parts guide them along the way. Between were allowed to practise medicine, the creation of INBOMETRAKA. when someone becomes ill, he or she sion: ‘We must work to bring back the of Peru, Argentina, Chile, and Ecuador, the ages of 23 and 25, these young Ka- while traditional medicine was con- will likely turn to traditional medicine. In neglected knowledge of traditional An- even as far as Panama. With their chus- llawaya are tested, and, once certified sidered witchcraft and healers were In 2003, UNESCO declared the Kalla- fact, according to Carmen Beatriz Loza, dean and Amazonian medicine to the pa—colourful woven medicine bags— in the healing arts, they can teach and imprisoned for practising it. However, waya cosmovision as an ‘oral and in- the research director of INBOMETRAKA, service of public health’, says Ms. Loza. and the blessing of the gods to protect pass on their knowledge to others. the legacy of traditional medicine con- tangible cultural heritage of humanity.’ 80 percent of Bolivians have called on them on their journey, they set off on tinued throughout those dark days, es- This award created public recognition a natural healer at some point in their As Dr. Quispe says, ‘It is not just medicine, ancient Inca trails to treat those in need. Dr. Quispe travelled from the age of pecially in Bolivia’s isolated rural com- of the value of Kallawaya knowledge lives, and 40 percent of Bolivians practise it’s a way of life.’ 12 13 Name: Iba Delgado Arana Age: 57 Occupation: Cook VOICES FROM THE {

FAIRGROUND My earilest memories A selection of interviews documenting the Alasita fair as lived by paceños. of Alasita are from TEXT: PATRICK DOWLING when I was 15 PHOTOS: IVAN RODRIGUEZ P. AND PATRICK DOWLING years old when I would come with my friends. Now I get Name: Andrea Vera to experience it every Age: 11 year because I come

Occupation:{ Student, 6th grade to cook. My specialty is Fritanga, and the mayor even awarded I have been coming to Alasita with my me a prize for this sister for 4 years. dish. I also love to I love everything make Plato Paceño, a about the festival, festival trademark. I especially the am going to buy some miniatures. I can’t

Name: Christian Quispe more kitchen items wait to buy bags and bags of money, Age: 18 and some miniature and a suitcase for Occupation: Student, 12th grade food stuff because I

travel because it { love to cook definitely works

{ This is my second year working at Alasita, { Name: Teodora Sillo but I have been taking Age: 60 part in the festival Name: Fabricio Barrientos since I was a kid. {

Occupation:{ Housewife Age: 20 I work the futbolín Occupation: University Student - studying Engineering station because it was always my favourite I love everything game at Alasita. I may buy some about Alasita. miniatures this year, I have been coming to Alasita ever I’ve been coming but I always spend since I can remember, but this year for 10 years now money on the games I am going to buy my university and I don’t plan so I get a lot of degree in Engineering and a license on stopping. I’m surprise prizes. I like going to buy a the surprise prize carts to practice. I really enjoy the house and a car because I got these miniatures and decided to make this this year wristbands from them model ship { { 14 { 15 VOICES FROM THE FAIRGROUND

Bolivian Express Grupo Express Press Cultural Calendar Cultural Calendar February - March 2012 Carnaval Season is coming up… If you’re in La Paz for Carnaval 2012, be in the right place at the right time with the help of our cultural calendar.

16-23 February 8 April Carnaval Community Exhibition Patak Pollera Festival. Location: Room 2, Galeria de Arte 21 Performed by the troupes: ‘Los Carinosos del Munay- Times: 9.00-12.00 and 15.00-18.00 pata’ and ‘Los Rajistas de Munaypata’ Location: Zona de Munaypata 24-25 February Time: 11.00 The Students’ Concert Performed by ‘Los Olvidados’ band in memory of the 1-29 February Anata, La Paz’s erstwhile Carnaval. Una mirada por la Alasita y el Carnaval Time:19.00 A collection of photographs by Cordero depicting aspects of both Alasita and 26 February Carnaval in the past century. The Burial of the Pepino Location: Museo Tambio Quirquincho, Evaristo Valle, A ceremony to bury the La Paz festival harlequin, on the Plaza Alonso de Mendoza corner. accompanied by ‘Los Olvidados’ band. Location: Plaza Mayor and San Francisco. 27-29 February Time: 10.00 Book Festival A range of events for all ages. Book sale in El Prado 26 February in honour of Literature Day and La Paz literature. The Sunday of Temptation: Parade of Ch’utas and Pepinos ‘Cámera Boliviana del Libro’ Performed by the San Antonio Dance troupe. and other book clubs will be part Location: Villa Armonía and IV Centenario of the programme. Time: 12.00 Time: 19.00

27 February 28 February Day of our Dear Chocopa Celebration of Franz Tamayo’s Birth Performed by the Centro cultural, A La Paz citizen, his birth will be honoured by UNI- ‘Estudiantina Primavera’ FRANZ and book clubs in La Paz. The distribution of

Location: Cementerio General Area and Gran Poder. pieces of his work will be announced. Time: 11.00 Location: Municipal Library ‘Mariscal Andres de Santa Cruz’, Plaza del Estudiante. 15 March

La Paz Carnaval Awards 28 February Name: Teresa Ticona de Pizarro Awards Ceremony for the municipal competition Story Anthology Presentation in the Anata Parades of Carnaval Paceno 2012. A special ceremony to present the XXXVIII ‘Anthology Age: 52 Awarded by the La Paz government. of Stories’ from the municipal ‘Franz Tamayo’ literature Occupation: Artisan selling toy cars { Location: Casa de la Cultura, ‘Franz Tamayo’ competition. Time: 10.30 Location: Palacio Consistorial. Time: 10.00 29 February I have been an artisan at Alasita for 20 years. I keep coming back because I Carnaval Seminar 29 February love the idea of buying for the desire of having. Unfortunately, I have to sleep Seminar entitled: ‘Changes and Transformations in the Taking Marx into the Twenty-First Century Anata—Carnaval Paceno—in the city of La Paz in the A talk by Juan José Bautista. Ref: 2236656. in the stand because I’m scared that someone will break in and steal all my Twentieth and Twenty-First century.’ Location: Goethe Institut, car models. I sell meat during the other times of the year. My favourite drink Location: ‘Amalia de Gallardo’ Room, Tambo Quir- Avenida Arce 2708 here is Batido quincho Museum and Calle Campos { Time: 18.00 Time: 10.00 17 A breakfast of api and pastel Bolivia has over two thousand varieties of corn, and these are made use of in the typical Andean drink api. Best described as a warm thick smoothie, this drink lacks the over sweetened sickliness that is present in many of its counterparts. It is usually accompanied by a pastel, a type of pastry bread sprinkled with icing sugar - buttery golden goodness to start your day. At a price of a mere eight bolivianos for both, there’s little excuse not to indulge in this tasty breakfast all day long!

9/10 in both attractiveness and taste

plato paceño A plate piled full of carbohydrates designed to beat the cold Andean weather, consisting of corn, lima beans, potatoes, cheese, and, non-traditionally in my case, beef. Although the sight of so much food on one plate was slightly overwhelming (even when shared between two), the variety made for an interesting meal. Initially a bit disappointed by the corn, I was quickly informed that the idea was to eat it in combination with the fried cheese. The addition of the cheese completely changed my perceptions, creating a salty, chewy, more-ish taste. The non-traditional beef was, however, the highlight; thinly cut with a vague hint of spice the steak was tender and delicious!

6/10 in attractiveness and 7/10 in taste churro This fried doughy pastry snack differs a little to its Spanish relative in its appearance, but retains all the sugary loveli- ness that churros should possess. Even after having eaten your body weight in food, this treat is hard to resist. The fact that is it served in a paper bag drenched in icing sugar only adds to its appeal; this snack is a favourite in the Alasita market for tourists and Bolivians alike.

9/10 in both attractiveness and taste

fritanga A thick, slightly spicy, pork stew made with tomatoes and onions, normally accompanied by corn and potatoes. However, unlike the carb-heavy plato paceño, the fritanga is centred around its meat of choice: pork. In fact the amount of meat that makes up this dish makes it well worth the 25 bolivianos you can expect to pay in any stall around Alasita, as well as being a tasty and unique dish. Dining at Alasita: 9/10 in value for money the final judgement In a world full of chain burger restaurants, people could use a little more Alasita food in their diet. Homemade, unpretentious, and quite frankly a bargain, I will be heading back there for dinner as soon as possible to sample a few of the many more dishes Alasita has to offer.

Text:Helena Cavell

18 Photo by Helena Cavell