BBolivianolivianEExpressxpress FFreeree DDistributionistribution / IIssuessue 2244 / 22012012 MMagazineagazine THE END OF WORLD ISSUE Directors: Amaru Villanueva Rance, Jack Kinsella, Xenia Elsaesser, Ivan Rodriguez Petkovic, Sharoll Fernandez. Editors: Amaru Villanueva Rance, Matthew Grace. Juan Victor Fajardo, Pedro Pablo Siles Web and legal: Jack Kinsella.Printing and Advertising Manager: Ivan Rodriguez Petkovic. Social and Cultural Coordinator: Sharoll Fernandez. Design: Michael Dunn Caceres Journalists: Theo Haynes, Harriet Marsden, Caroline Risacher, Niall Flynn, Joel Balsam Our Cover: Marco Antonio Guzman Rocabado (Marco Tóxico). Marketing: Jack Kinsella The Bolivian Express would like to thank: Raul Peñaranda, Gustavo Verduguez, Eduardo Rojas, Wilmer Machaca, Estela Machaca, Susanna Rance, El Garden, Marco Tóxico, Pablo Bredow, Team Street Riders, Alejandro Liebers, FELCC, Mario Bolivian Express Durán, Gilmar Gonzales Advertise with us: [email protected]. Address: Express Press, Edifi cio Grupo Express Press Quipus, 5to piso, Pasaje Jauregui. Join Us: Mob. 78862061- 70503533 - 70672031

La Paz – Bolivia, www.bolivianexpress.org December 2012 :Bolivian Express @Bolivianexpress

EXPENSIVE SMILES p.8

TALL TALES OF LA PAZ p.10

SEÑORAS p.12 Y SEÑORES

HO HO HO p.14

CONTENTS AND A PIRATE DVD

ENCHULAME LA MAQUINA p.18

CONSTELLATION SACABA p.21

GRAND DESIGNS p.24

‘GUESS WHO’ FACESOF EL ALTO MARKET p.26

CULTURAL CALENDAR: FOTOGRAFÍA BOLIVIANA p.28 WILLCAPARU Corn - based snack CARNICERA/O Market butcher

TUCUMANA Fried pasty fi lled with meat and CHARLATANES Charlatan vegetables

VENDEDORES CALLEJEROS People who sell on the street EKEKO Andean god of abundance and prosperity DIABLADA Traditional folkloric Bolivian dance COMPADRES Term used to address the parent of Colloquial slang for something lame, tacky, Y COMADRES CHAPI rubbish or of low quality a godchild. More generally, a social traditional bond not based on blood, DESPROTEGIDOS not protected by digital rights management Often involving patronage software; free to be copied CASA TRANCA Motorway toll booth House

FAVELAS Poor neighbourhood in Brazil TRENZA Plait/braid Literally ‘buy from me’ in Aymara. A fair with ALASITA pre-hispanic origins fair where miniature goods are sold QUECHUA Indigenous language and culture of the FERIA people of the central Andes Fair/Market ALTIPLANO The high plateau in South America’s western TALLER Workshop and central Andes

CHOLITA Andean highland woman, typifi ed by her distinc- PICARDIA mischierousness tive bowler hat and wide skirt JUEGUITO A little game

TIEMPO DEL PACHAKUTI Cyclical - Time/Space Upheaval MOCOCHINCHI Popular drink made out of dried peaches 6 EDITORIAL PHOTO: joel balsam How Bolivia Is to Going Survive the Apocalypse As We Know It World . . . The Endof the the world?The global This mayseem far-fetched,yetoverthelast yearsfewhaven’twe allwitnessedtheslowblighting of of theworldandgeneralchaos. ment, magneticpolarshift,meteor strikes,solarstorms—allofwhichwillmostlikelyinduce atotalblackout lisation isgoingtochangeradically duetoaseriesofeventsandcatastrophessuch asplanetaryrealign- date wewillarriveattheend ofthe5,125-year-longcycleinLongCountcalendar, meaningthatcivi- The worldisgoingtoendon December21,2012,theMayawarnedus.According to theirbeliefs,onthat fi nancial crisis,thunderous earthquakesinIran andHaiti,city-crushingtsunamis inJa- Might be something worth writing home about. Might besomethingworthwriting homeabout. side over the other by providing better climate and energy. The winter solstice on December 21 will mark side overtheotherbyprovidingbetterclimateandenergy.ThewintersolsticeonDecember21willmark summer intheNorthernHemisphere.ThisexplainshistoricalNorth-Southinequalities,whichfavoredone Apparently, theendofMayancalendarcorrespondstoa5,125-year-longso-calledgalactic life ginning ofanewepochinhistory.LakeTiticacaisconsecratedplacewhere,accordingtothelegends, national celebrationontheshoresofsacredLakeTiticacatocelebratecomingchangesandbe- In thisspirit,andfollowingthetrendofend-of-the-worldparties,Boliviangovernmentisthrowingitsown other, theeraofelVivirBien. 21 willmarkthebeginningofanewerainwhichhumankindcanliveharmonywithnatureandeach ing totheancestralprehispanicbeliefthatplanetaryalignmentcorrespondsanewage,December But maybetheworldisnotactuallygoingtoend;itjustendofasweknowit.Accord- doomsday scenarios. is takensoseriouslythatevenNASAhaspublishedinformationrefutes—orattemptstorefute—these York City—thissurelymustbeevidencethattheendisnearandcivilisationabouttoend.Thethreat pan andSriLanka,droughtfoodshortages,theArabSpring,snowstormsHurricaneSandyinNew by By CarolineRisacher fl N.B. fi ying llamas, trailing across the burning La Paz sky like one of the proverbial horsemen of the apocalypse. ying llamas,trailingacross the burningLaPazskylikeoneofproverbialhorsemen oftheapocalypse. rst appearedfromtheunionoffatherSunandmotherMoon.

Their meaningscan befoundinourglossary Several Spanishand Aymarawordsaremarkedin bold throughoutthisissue. architecture, and love andthebeginningof new cosmiceraofcommunityspiritand this statementtomean),it’s‘thestartofa Coca-Cola, assomepeoplehavetaken David Choquehuanca(butnottheendof era’, announcedBolivianForeignMinister alistic values:It’stheendof‘Coca-Cola the endofcapitalism,egoismandindividu- Pachakuti harmony forMotherEarth’—the ing thenewcycle;atimeofbalanceand by ‘closingthenon-timecycleandreceiv- to Boliviainorderwelcomethisnewera vitation tothenationsofworldcome President EvoMoraleshasextendedanin- To celebratethiscosmicdawn,Bolivian fl its antipodeancounterpartdevelopsand the Northtosomeverydif a newbeginningfortheSouth,openingup activity, tucumanas tic traf surrounded byimpossiblebuildings,fran- uniqueness andpossibilities.Hereweare understatement—it’s atestimonytoits And sayingthatLaPazisamadcityno or asolarstorm. be affectedbyasmallmagneticpolarshift ness thatcharacterizesLaPazcouldhardly apocalypse? Thegeneralanduttermad- Bolivia couldsurvive,andthriveafter,an dictions. Afterall,whatothercountrythan mated bytheseMayanandAymarapre- It’s easytoseehowBoliviacouldgetani- 21st, youseean So don’tbesurprisedif,come December . nights, andgringosfromallovertheplanet bles hangingdownthestreets,sparklylight bags, cloggedtoilets,junglesofelectricca- pimped-up cars,juiceandmilkinplastic teeth, constantstrikes,TheStrongestfans, ourishes. willcaparu fi c, thestreetcacophony,dancing pajpakus . Moreover, this year also marks . Moreover,thisyearalsomarks onposters,incessant cholitas era’. era’. ekeko , fakeof adorned with golden adornedwithgolden riding a sleigh pulled ridingasleighpulled fi fi cials, whimsical whimsical cials, cult timeswhile mocochinchi Tiempo del Tiempo del fi rework rework 7

holita fashion is certainly and most expensive option available, gage them in conversation, or even eye catching, thanks to it continues to enjoy great popularity. better, make them laugh out loud. their sequined shawls, mul- A dentist told me “Typically women Like every well-established fash- ti-layered polleras and dis- ask for heart-shaped design, whereas ion, there are slow but constantly tinctive bowler hats. How- men want something more rectangu- evolving innovations in the world of ever, once you get talking lar”. golden smiles. A notable change to many cholitas you may has been the introduction of eco- notice a special something Back home in the UK, metallic mouths nomical and durable materials such in their uniquely radiant smiles - their are more often associated with rap- as chrome, which is said to be the teeth are crowned and adorned with pers such as Goldie and Juvenile. I most comfortable when eating. Yet all manner of metallic ornaments. Curi- somewhat doubt that rap artists and despite the seemingly burgeoning ous to learn more, I set out to investi- cholitas have too much in common, industry created around this cosmet- gate, visiting several dental practices yet when it comes to this goudy oral ic procedure, Dr. Israel Quispe tells across La Paz’s Zona Norte and El Alto. fashion, it’s not unthinkable they us this fashion has seen its day, and have similar motives. From grillz to that many of his customers who had After speaking with several dentists, it heart-shaped tooth-jewelry, this phe- this done a decade or two ago are became obvious that there is a great nomenon is the lovechild of relative now requesting the removal of these variety both in the design and appear- wealth, ostentatiousness, and pride. teeth, reverting to a somewhat more ance of this dental work, with prices to Indeed, I am told it is often monied natural look. suit all budgets. Someone with a slen- carniceras and prominent merchants der wallet may only spend something who can afford the most extravagant These smiles can also be more ex- like Bs. 300, and have just one or two smiles. pensive than fi rst meets the eye. Dr acrylic/porcelain teeth implanted Quispe also told us of a rather harrow- and then covered in chrome or sil- Despite the fact that they are ever so ing story of people with gold teeth ver. A cholita looking to splash out proud, very few are willing brandish in El Alto who had been victims of may spend upwards of Bs. 3000 to fi ll these beauties for the camera. This violent attacks: thieves had smashed their mouths with gold and platinum was certainly apparent after every their teeth out with stones just to steal crowns. single cholita in sight rejected our re- the gold which, I should add, rarely quest for a photograph. We came even adds up to gram. There are cer- Gold is certainly the classic choice, to realise that the only way of seeing tainly moments when you pay the full and despite being the least durable these teeth in all their glory was to en- price of having an expensive smile. 8 THE FALSE POLICEMAN quite elaborate and extremely diversi- DON’T: Ever get into a taxi that gives fi ed. The name comes from the tale of you a bad feeling. Vague advice, we VICTIM: Your usual tourist the far away uncle who just left a con- know... siderable inheritance. WHO AND WHAT: an accomplice ‘grin- BLACK MARKET JUNK go’, a false police station, a policeman In one version of this scam, the con man impersonator, and a taxi or a car. asks for money for the trip and promises VICTIM: Any potential buyer and, of to return a bigger amount - which, of course, the smiling tourist MODUS OPERANDI: This is one of the course, never happens. more elaborate scams. WHO AND WHAT: black market vendor, Step one: The innocent tourist - gener- In another version, someone drops an electronic equipment box, plastic ally alone - is accosted by another such envelope in sight of you and the per- tourist looking for directions or asking to petrator. He goes to inspect and fi nds MODUS OPERANDI: You think you are take a picture. it is fi lled with cash. He comes up to you buying a proper piece of equipment, Step two: the victim is quickly befriend- and says that, as you are the only ones a laptop, a camera, speakers, a tel- ed by the new tourist when a police who saw it happen, you should split the ephone. You are shown the ‘display offi cer appears, asking for their papers cash. You agree and he takes you to a item’ and given a ‘brand new box’ as a routine check-up. The other tour- place away from the public eye. Here complete with cellophane wrapper, ist complies easily, but when the victim his accomplice is waiting. Together they but when you return home, possibly shows his/her papers (passport, immi- immobilise you and free you of your boasting about the bargain you just gration sheet) something appears to possessions. got, realise that the interior of your pur- be wrong. chase is simply full of plastic and junk. Step three: the policeman asks both of DO: Follow the maxim: ‘If it’s too good them to follow him to the station to sort to be true, it probably is.’ DO: Check the merchandise if possible out the situation. The accomplice acts as if it’s perfectly normal and follows DON’T: Ever give money to strangers. DON’T: Buy electronic equipment from without hesitation. the black market Step four: the clueless victim is taken to some recluse location where he or EXPRESS TAXI THE STAIN she will be lightened of all valuables: KIDNAPPING: credit cards, passport, camera, etc. In VICTIM: Bag-carrying pedestriann some variations the victim is taken to a VICTIM: Your typical tourist, specially cash machine where he or she will be when inebriated MODUS OPERANDI: A helpful passerby, prompted to give up their PIN number. warns the clueless victim of the (usu- WHO AND WHAT: an ordinary looking ally mustard) stain on his jacket/bag/ DO: Ask for proper identifi cation and taxi, a driver, one or two accomplices, shirt that has been subtly placed there only talk to a police offi cer in uniform. sharp/hard objects and weapons. by an accomplice. Embarrassed, the victim is offered help to clean the stain DON’T: Ever follow unidentifi ed stran- MODUS OPERANDI: The innocent and with tissues proffered from the passerby. gers into a vehicle (or anywhere for that disoriented tourist coming out of the bus When they place their bags on the fl oor TALL TALES matter). terminal hails a taxi, thinking it will lead to remove their stained item of clothing, him to a nice and comfy hotel. Howev- the accomplice runs past and steals er, he is being taken to a cash machine the bags. The ‘helpful stranger’ offers to ‘CUENTO DEL TIO’ under the threat of a sharp pointed ob- chase after the thief, never to be seen OF LA PAZ (THE UNCLE’S TALE) ject. again. VICTIM: The elderly DO: Call for a radio-taxi if possible, DO: Wait until you’re somewhere safe check the car’s licence plate number and private before wiping off a cloth- WHO AND WHAT: a well-spoken and is printed on the insides of the doors, en- ing stain. persuasive perpetrator, an accomplice, gage the driver in conversation before HOW TO AVOID GETTING false documents, counterfeit money you get on (to negotiate a fare). If you DON’T: Accept help from strangers on look at his face for long enough he’ll be the street, or leave your bags on the MUGGED IN THE CITY MODUS OPERANDI: These thefts are scared of being identifi ed. fl oor for a single second. Text: Caroline Risacher 11

Boteros, lanceros, monrre- of delinquents you might encounter in ing their pockets. ros, descuidistas, cuenter- the city. Some are your usual pickpock- os, jaladores, pildoritas, ets. Others are physically aggressive, or One can sit and admire the versatility secuestro express, cum- try to drug you. And the more creative and creativity of petty thieves in Bolivia. breros, carreros, cogoter- bunch, the ‘cuenteros’, are good with They constantly fathom new tricks to os, documenteros....’ Thus words, knowing how to extort unholy deceive and rob their innocent victims. began Lieutenant Llusco’s sums of money from us their unsus- Even though La Paz is hardly as dan- enumeration, upon being pecting victims. gerous as other South American capi- asked what types of crimi- tals; tourists and locals are well advised nals roam the streets of La Paz. Care- Last week, for instance, the police to avoid falling prey to these crooks by fully taxonomised and all-too familiar disbanded a group of ‘pildoreros’ taking the necessary precautions. to the Police’s ‘Crimes Against Prop- operating in nightclubs. Their modus erty’ department, those are the types operandi involved drugging their Please behold some scams you might victims unconscious before empty- experience here in Bolivia: 10 Le ha robado algo?’. ‘Did - Bolivia’s inter-province coaches - would think about buying a necklace he rob you?’. The primary where the hard work of attracting like this. assumption as to why I a crowd has already been done for might want to locate one them. Despite initially disregarding the paj- of these public salesmen paku as no different from the average is petty street theft. This On a 12 hour journey from La Paz door to door salesman back home, quick fi re answer - the re- to Sucre, a man in jeans, polo shirt, two friends travelling on the fl ota fell sponse of a kiosk-working denim jacket and baseball cap victim to his ploys and made purchas- Cholita upon my request jumps on board and stands at the es. And what can I say about the al- to discover the wherea- front. Just when you thought you leged silver: last time I checked, real bouts of a pajpaku - speaks volumes had a chance to get away from the silver didn’t rust that quickly. about these characters. It explains, chaos and commotion of the city; a quite plainly, that no-one goes look- chance to escape the frantic hustle Pajpakus are much more than just ex- ing for pajpakus, but rather, one and bustle and spend some quality cellent public speakers. They combine stumbles upon them and often re- time alone with your iPod. And then a range of skills that make them scarily mains entranced against their own you’re reminded that you’re in Boliv- perfect for their job: public speaking, conscious will. It explains their soci- ia. A loud, booming voice greets the persuasion, salesmanship, decep- etal image: they are con-artists. It ex- passengers in identical fashion to the tion, hypnosis, psychology - the vast plains that they are viewed as peo- man in El Alto. ‘Senoras y Senoras, es- majority of these entrepreneurs never ple who are toothless when it comes timados amigos...’ Just about to nod fi nished school, and yet they have ap- to making money. off and my much needed slumber propriated the techniques taught at is interrupted. I suddenly wished I’d top sales schools around the world. As I stood and watched a man in El never got on the bus. Alto’s Plaza de Autos selling medi- There is one major difference between cine for colon cancer, I was struck by For the next 30 minutes, he hypnotis- the vendedores callejeros and pajpa- three particularly impressive traits: his es his audience, starting with a ques- kus. Their success depends on much ability to attract and retain a crowd, tion (unapparent if it is rhetorical or more than a client approaching a his humour (despite his complete not) to engage his clients; ‘Ladies stall. It depends on their loquacity and lack of spontaneity), and his appar- and Gentlemen, what do you lose ability to put any fear, embarrassment ent confi dence in his product. Un- when you fall in love?’. The previ- or timidity to one side and manipulate derneath a parasol by his portable ously uninterested passengers are their audience. In their arsenal, they kiosk, the pajpaku stands equipped intrigued and start to yell a series of have an ability to deceive with con- with a bucket of his remedies in eye- answers until someone fi nally brings fi dence: to talk for hours with enthusi- drop sized vials, several A3 prop the charade to an end: ‘the heart’ asm, as their crowd stands fi xated and cards with a host of graphic pic- is the answer. He has achieved Step hypnotised by the ludicrously inviting tures, a microphone headset, and a One in capturing his audience. Now techniques used to draw and retain bucket full of cash. He starts, just like it is time for him to introduce his their attention. every pajpaku,by politely addressing product, and a pajpakus introduc- his audience. ‘Señoras y señores, es- tion wouldn’t be complete without Similar to the ‘Bid TV’ sellers in the timados amigos...’ an impossibly verifi able claim to be- Western world, a lot of their language, gin with. ‘This is real silver, ladies and although cringe-worthy to some, is From here on in, it is a battle be- gentlemen’. incredibly effective. At times, their tween his persuasive sales technique mouth seems to work faster than their and your sometimes subconscious He unfurls a display of silver chains brain. Many of them attended oratory desire to leave; a battle frequently and necklaces, rhapsodising about classes, obtaining instruction over dic- SEÑORAS lost by the client. He addresses the their necessity in everyone’s life. He tion and pronunciation. According to crowd throughout his pitch, starting explains the quality of his product an article in La Luciérnaga, José Ca- every sentence with ‘amigos’ or ‘es- and the incredible deal on offer. ‘This huana, who sells biographies of former timada gente’, continuously captur- necklace, ladies and gentlemen, sells Bolivian President Rodríguez Veltzé, ing the attention of the stream of po- in jewellery shops for 150 Bolivianos. not only took oratory classes but prac- Y SEÑORES tential clients walking by. He boasts Ladies and Gentlemen, today, I will be ticed for months in front of a mirror confi dence in his product by offering selling it for a mere 50 Bolivianos’. He before selling his products in public Derived from the Quechua word for owl, pajpaku is the term a sample to each and every mem- marches down the central aisle of the each Sunday. ‘Seducing people is an ber of the surrounding circle. He lies, bus, handing out a necklace for each art’, he believes. Watching a pajpaku, used in Bolivia to denote the innovative salespeople who op- I presume, about his product’s pop- passenger to inspect closely, not once captivated by their charisma and erate in bustling city squares, inter-city buses and crowded ularity and common use in Europe breaking his speech, casting a spell of enthusiasm, it seems unlikely that just and North America, places he can trust between himself and everyone anyone could master such an art. market places. They rely on nothing more than their own be almost certain the majority of his on board. business acumen, rhetorical prowess and inventiveness. audience have never visited; plac- Being a pajpaku is a rare gift. Apart es that breathe confi dence into his Then he goes in for the kill. He hits from being a trade, it is also a per- They are artists and masters of oratory, yet seen by some as product’s effectiveness. The serious you with an unrefusable offer. He an- sonal survival strategy. They have charlatanes...Niall Flynn talks us through matters that have to be confronted nounces that he’s willing to reduce his discovered a way to live based on are presented with light-hearted hu- own price, and brings it down to 20 persuasion and opportunism. They his experience of the pajpakus. mour. ‘Si estas embarazada, por fa- Bolivianos for the chain, plus 10 Boli- are master entrepreneurs, testament vor no tomes, si lo haces, tu bebé va vianos for each attachable ‘charm’ to the country’s inventiveness and a salir caminando’. ‘If you are preg- or pendant, in the shape of hearts, need to adapt to unpredictable mar- nant, please do not take it, if you do, moons and crucifi xes. And that’s not ketplaces with both innovative prod- TEXT: NIALL FLYNN your baby will walk out’. all. Having made his initial sales, he ucts and differentiated sales pitches. PHOTO: JOEL BALSAM He doesn’t stop talking for longer cheekily unveils a rack of smaller chain Whether up in La Feria de El Alto on than a second. bracelets, which he is willing to sell to Sundays, amongst the stolen electron- those who have already purchased ics and second hand clothes, or on Pajpakus are also known to frequent a necklace for the bargain, discount- an inter-city fl ota, they will stand and the seemingly interminable bus ed price of 5 Bolivianos. At this point reel off their rehearsed speech once journeys, waiting in the congested I asked myself, who, upon boarding again. ‘Señoras y señores, estimados streets of El Alto to hop onto a fl ota the bus, actually wanted, needed or amigos...’ 13 legal system and the light potential What we have is an access issue. There among Bolivians for domestic produc- punishments. simply are not suffi cient distribution out- tion and local artists, there is very little HO HO HO AND A PIRATE DVD Luis calls for stronger punishments for lets to get your hands on music or fi lms for wealthy transnational companies. pirates. But this seems logistically un- in their original, legal forms – or, the Basically, few people care if the Ameri- feasible. originals are far too expensive. If piracy cans are losing money. People do not Harriet Marsden takes us on a tour of some of the places and players in the pirate Mauricio Ruiz, another lawyer from La did not exist, only a small elite of the see how this affects Bolivians. Paz, estimates in a press statement in country would have access to this me- industry in Bolivia: 2012 that without piracy there would dia. The estimated trade losses due to While the lawyer Max Orellana de- be 10,000 people out of a job. Luis musical piracy was around 15$ million clares that ‘piracy impedes innova- Dorn’s estimates are even higher – he at the turn of the millenium, primarily tion’, Roger disagrees entirely. In addi- From a pavement in downtown La Paz alongside Eusebio, a street vendor of believes 30,000 people’s livelihoods due to lack of action from the Bolivian tion to selling pirated DVDs, his business pirate DVDs. are dependent on piracy. ‘It is ridicu- government, high levels of police cor- allows him to spread original Bolivian lous that they would try to fi ne me,’ ruption, and lack of commitment of material, which would otherwise be declares Eusebio from his roadside SENAPI and Bolivian judiciary – but who lost. Indeed, he declares his business a Through the offi ce of Luis Dorn, a well-respected lawyer with a particular in vigil. ‘I could never pay that fi ne – it is losing? ‘cultural project’, stressing the impor- wouldn’t work. If they put me in prison, I tance of access to fi lms, literature and terest in intellectual property, don’t know what my wife and children Not Eusebio, who earns just a few Boli- music for cultural growth. He also en- would do’. vianos for every DVD sale. Luis explains courages his customers to copy their that the real money in piracy goes to DVDs amongst themselves, and pass To the doorway of an established pirate DVD shop with Roger, its owner So, in theory, the government is tack- the ones recording or copying, not them on. He ironically names his DVDs ling this problem, yet in reality the indus- those who are on the front line selling. ‘desprotegidos’. try is thriving. Supply and demand – if To Petrus, the lead singer of one of the most popular bands in the city. the only possible way for the average Bolivia has not traditionally been a Even Luis - although he declares him-

et’s say you’re in Bolivia this spiderweb give people access to Eusebio, our local DVD street vendor, Bolivian to purchase music or videos is source of pirated music and fi lm. Un- self morally against piracy - recognises for the fi rst time, and universal culture, or does it damage what he would do if a police car drove through illegal means, then that is what til recently, most of the pirated goods the important role it plays in conserving you hear a band you the country’s creative industries? past. Would he quickly pack up and will occur, laws notwithstanding. Piracy sold in Bolivia were imported from Peru traditional Bolivian music and inde- like, or fancy renting a From the legal to the illegal, and cre- hide his wares? ‘A policeman is one of is morally and, to a certain extent, le- and Colombia. Interestingly, Petrus, pendent fi lms. However, he also warns DVD for the night. You ator to distributor – this web sprawls my best customers!’ he grins. gally tolerated, as it makes available who records his music in Bolivia, must of a state of ‘intellectual drain’, and soon notice the near- across every echelon of society. One resources from around the world that send it to Peru to be copied onto CDs. explains that, with the legal failings complete absence of thing that is clear from the start is that Even if the correct laws and means otherwise would be closed off. These come back to Bolivia and are concerned with intellectual property, original material in the it is impossible to stand infl exibly on one of enforcement were in place, carry- sold, legally. Some of these are taken local intellectuals prefer to publish L country - no large re- side of the argument. ing out the punishment is harder than Consider the case of Roger, the own- back to Peru to be copied, illegally, their work abroad. He estimates that cord shops to speak of it sounds. There actually exists legisla- er of a legal-ish shop selling DVDs. and these come back across the bor- 80% of musicians have their music reg- and just one or two video clubs with an Luis Dorn, a highly educated and spe- tion that states that all preparatory It looks like any normal DVD rental der to Bolivia as pirate copies, expand- istered in Europe, particularly Germa- impoverished catalogue. And well, the cialised lawyer, looks at me across his proceedings, such as inspections, must shop, except you actually buy the ing his reach. Although he scorns the ny and France, while photographers reliably unreliable internet connection mahogany desk and stresses that the be carried out with prior notifi cation of fi lms, and they are all copied from Peruvian pirates, he admits that this are publishing photos of Bolivia in Italy. - incidentally, one of the slowest in the case is far from simple. He calls piracy the defendant. Of course, in this way originals. He is quick to point out that situation amuses him greatly. So, Bolivian cultural output begins to continent - means that downloading ‘an informal, living economy’, towards the police lose the element of surprise. what he does has a ‘social function’ belong to other countries. This, he em- is out of the question. Do not despair which the government ‘turns a blind Even more strangely, the target is en- and therefore, he claims, is not strictly Petrus, incidentally, is not losing out ei- phasises, is a ‘sad paradox’. though, as the gods of entertainment eye’.‘They’re not really interested in titled to object to the search – and a illegal (see the Bolivian Constitution ther. He explains that for a Bolivian mu- may be smiling down on you. fi ghting against piracy’, he tells me dis- judge must rule on this objection, wast- for an understanding on how the il- sician, a pirate copy of their music is a So, it is clear that there is a strange di- dainfully. ing more time and money. legal can become legal if it’s in the huge compliment. ‘It’s the only way to chotomy when it comes to piracy in Wandering through the streets of La interests of society). He also explains get our music out there’, he says, ‘and Bolivia. People need it, people love it, Paz in the cold evening air, you sud- In theory, video and music piracy of Lawsuits can take up to fi ve years of that his fi lms are used by NGOs, cin- most of the money a musician earns and although the government consist- denly notice a man on the street with this sort is totally outlawed and a pun- court proceedings just to determine if ema clubs, and even seven Bolivian comes from gig ticket sales’. The more ently makes shows of tackling it, in re- an impressive array of DVDs laid out ishable offence. However, Luis explains there even was a copyright infringe- universities. people that hear their music, the more ality they are forced to let it lie. Some on the pavement, in proper cases with that the 1322 Law of 1992, designed to ment. And even if the court fi nds that people come to their concerts. ‘It’s believe it destroys industries and dam- legitimate-looking covers. He shows protect intellectual property, sets out the software was indeed pirated, there As a customer of Eusebio tells me, part of our lives and cultural mindset’. ages the idea of intellectual property, you recent Hollywood blockbusters for punishments too lenient to act as a has to be a damages trial – yet more smiling, ‘If it weren’t for these men, Roger, too, is sceptical about losses, and yet our musician declares oth- just a few Bolivianos. You can’t believe deterrent to pirates. He also mentions money, time and bureaucracy. Luis my dates would be chapi!’ And when because he maintains that without erwise. Our lawyer calls for stronger your luck - you’re sorted. Before you the creation of a national intellectual explains wryly (and unsurprisingly) that I ask her how often she buys a pirate the pirate industry ‘nobody would buy punishments – and yet acknowledges know it, you’ve become a cog in the property entity, following the IIPA’S ‘musicians do not like entering into le- DVD, she answers plainly: ‘whenever I these fi lms; nobody would see them’. the intrinsic diffi culties in the prospect. underworld of Bolivian piracy. calls for revision of copyright laws – the gal proceedings’. have a date’. Our street seller claims that without snappily named SENAPI. So, who is really losing out? this livelihood, he, alongside countless In 2006, the International Intellectual In other cases, street vendors have at- ‘Look at this street’, Eusebio points other families, would starve. Our shop Property Alliance (IIPA) reported that However, this organisation is under- tacked the police as anti-piracy ac- out. ‘It is full of people like me, and The underlying concern in interna- owner names his pirated DVD business 90% of fi lms and music in Bolivia came funded, and is lacking in both trained tions were taking place. To date, there it’s only one street. If they arrest me, tional discussions of this problem? The a ‘cultural undertaking’. from pirated sources, with 80% for soft- personnel and the means with which has never been a fi nal civil judgment they arrest everybody. And all those US market. While the US (in theory) ac- ware - the fi gures are among the high- to enforce intellectual property rights. for copyright infringement in Bolivia. families would have no money’. knowledges that Bolivia’s government It is also clear that evicting video and est in Latin America. It would be grossly Although the Worldwide Organisation does not prioritize American concerns DVD piracy in Bolivia remains a far- inaccurate to say that piracy in Bolivia of Intellectual Property (OMPI) exists to Luis goes on to name a legal intellec- An important factor to consider is the for intellectual property law enforce- fl ung possibility. While the poverty lev- is a contained, or even containable protect the rights of the author, in real- tual property issue which he fi nds par- poverty of the average Bolivian, an ment, they continue to press their own els and access issues remain the way issue. It is a massive, sprawling, amor- ity it allows for countries to self-regulate. ticularly comical – and disappointing. estimated half of whom are living on stance upon the nation, disregarding they are, this industry cannot be eradi- phous industry. In short, any Bolivian attempts to bring When the diablada, a typical Bolivian less than $2 USD per day. In one of the unique situation of piracy in Bolivia. cated- notwithstanding the 30,000 piracy under control are hamstrung by dance, began to appear in Peru, Bo- the poorest countries in South Amer- The approach taken by the US Em- people who depend upon it. Eusebio This so-called industry is an exten- failings in their own legal system and its livia made a formal, legal complaint ica, buying a full price DVD or CD at bassy in La Paz is changing the mindset sums it up: ‘I don’t know about the sive spiderweb of smugglers, lawyers, corresponding enforcement. against the country for infringement of 20 dollars would seem ludicrous to of the Bolivian public. They’re trying to laws or the punishments. I can’t tell pirates, musicians, distributors, and copyright. They did this in the name of most – even if they were available. persuade Bolivians to pay much higher you where my movies come from. But many, many consumers – a network to We must also consider the corruption folklore protection. So, Peru, in retribu- As Roger points out, ‘my customers prices and acknowledge that piracy I get them and I sell them and this is which a vast majority of Bolivians are in that is rife in the police force. Stand- tion, decided to initiate proceedings would not buy original price DVDs. is ‘stealing’ and ‘wrong’. However, my life. And there will always be peo- some way connected. I wonder, does ing on the street by Plaza Avaroa, I ask in Bolivia, relying on the failings of the They can’t afford to’. while there is considerable sympathy ple like me’. 14 15 photo: Joel Balsam

‘FOR, BEHOLD, I CREATE NEW HEAVENS AND A NEW EARTH: AND THE FORMER SHALL NOT BE REMEMBERED, NOR COME INTO MIND.’

ISAIAH 65:17 ENCHULAME LA MAQUINA PIMP MY RIDE, BOLIVIA Neon lights more evocative of the Christmas season than high-performance motoring; oversized exhausts with noises so strange they suggest engine malfunction rather than power; unsightly spoilers so hyperbolic it’s only possible to think they make cars less aerodynamic, not more. These are some of the sights I encountered when I fi rst arrived in La Paz, usually on inner-city taxis driven by heavily hair-gelled young drivers. I wanted to fi nd where these cars were, erm, pimped out. My investigations led me to talleres scattered across various parts of town: from Cota Cota to San Pedro.

One day, while walking up the calle Landaeta I spotted a yellow Subaru which actually looked good. The car’s own- er, Romer Fernandez Martinez, was a man on a mission with a serious passion for driving. He was happy to explain to me how he went about tuning his car, its sound system and, of course, the costs associated with turning an average car into one that wins competitions. Just like the movie series The Fast and the Furious, Martinez and around 20 of his friends compete against other drivers from around Bolivia on empty roads. They call themselves STR, Street Team Rac- ing. In contrast to the chapi looking taxis found all over La Paz, these guys certainly sounded (and looked) like the real deal. So, I arranged to meet them and learn more about the Bolivian high-performance car scene. TEXT: THEO HAYNES PHOTOS: MICHAEL DUNN, jOEL BALSAM, GUSTAVO VERDUGUEZ, and niall flynn CONSTELLATION SACABA

the ch’askitas, named after the quechua word for star, are sacaba’s latest girl-band export. amaru villanueva rance went to meet these folk starlets to learn their story, and left with three goddaughters; three more than he had bargained for. TEXT AND PHOTOS: AMARU VILLANUEVA RANCE

FACT FILE fi rst met the Ch’askitas and of a blur. A pigeon stood on Jhonny’s over soon, I just phoned Benita’, Dally The Race their entourage on a Sunday head. We laughed. They asked us to told me. She then picked up the phone, Late at night on select empty streets of El Alto or La afternoon in the Plaza Muri- recommend a place with a good view, dialed a number and said ‘Doña Cris- Paz, cars line up for a quarter mile race, revving their llo. Vigorously waving their and an hour later we found ourselves tina, can you please send Daniela over engines and giving it their all in order for a chance to sequined green polleras to taking them to the mirador Killi Killi, in her orange pollera?’ She hung up. win the big prize. The winner gets money for tuning the rhythm of a zapateo, the which offers some of the most panoptic ‘She’s coming right over’. Suddenly my or a brand new sound system. Four times a year, ma- three girls sung, smiled and views the city has to offer. Bricks, clouds, phone rang. It was Doña Benita with jor events take place around Bolivia that can bring danced to a huayño rasping erosion and chaos – the improbably some strange news: ‘Araceli doesn’t in massive crowds. outi of a tinny handheld speaker. The majestic Illimani dominating the back- Palacio de Gobierno served as a curi- drop. Nothing out of the ordinary. All I ous backdrop, and the innumerable know for certain is that by the end of ing, Japan Tuning, 1/4 Mile Club, Stallions, and Hot Wheels. The pigeons which overcrowd the plaza the afternoon Esme and I had agreed competition grew and grew across Bolivia, on street corners and seemed characteristically unfazed - if to be godparents to the Ch’askitas. in special tracks where four major country-wide events take place anyone was paying attention, it cer- annually. These drag races can draw massive crowds. tainly wasn’t them. A crowd, which I Two weeks later I found myself some soon discovered I was a part of, gath- 400 kilometres south of La Paz, in their The Game ered around them with a certain uncer- hometown of Sacaba, the second larg- There are three kinds of racers: those in it for the audio, those in it for tainty. This was no ordinary street per- est city in the department of Cocha- the tuning, and those in it purely for the race. Street Team Racing’s formance. Camoufl aged among the bamba and home to over 100,000 red Mitsubishi Evo is a pure racing car with the ability to go 0-100 crowd, wearing a khaki utility vest, was people. No sooner had I arrived, I was km/h in less than six seconds. Meanwhile, Martinez’s yellow Subaru, a man holding a large video camera. being served unfi nishable amounts of albeit extremely fast, is more dedicated to audio and tuning with Meet Jhonny, manager and padrino to food by Benita, and drinking beer with an earth-thumping and trunk-fi lling subwoofer. Some teams like the Ch’askitas. Jhonny, Dally and her husband Juan. Japan Tuning are, as their name suggests, more in it for the tuning Meet my new compadres and co- than the racing. Racecar or not, part of the game is looking good. I don’t remember how or why but my madres. Decals, stickers and neon lights all add to the effect and make friend Esmeralda and I soon started these cars stand out even among the shoddily tuned up taxis. talking to a lady with a big warm smile and gold crowns around her teeth (see The Life p.6). ‘We’re fi lming the girls’ fi rst music That was in August 2011. I returned to Street racing is a hobby and not a full time job. Speeding up and video. That is my daughter Araceli’, she visit the girls a few weeks ago, and got down Bolivia’s mountains may be enjoyable, but it costs quite a lot said, pointing to the smallest one of the a chance to catch up with them and to maintain. However, despite occasionally being pestered by the three. Meet Benita, an unmistakably learn a bit more about how they came pacos, the team don’t seem too worried about police trouble. In Cochabambina chola. into existence and where they’re fact, the driver of the white Honda is a police offi cer (though he heading. doesn’t work in the city). The girls fi nished dancing and came over, ice-creams and juices in hand. Dally and her husband welcomed me The Team The Price Seemingly accustomed to media at- into their home and sent their young- Just four years after The Fast and the Furious told the Car prices are not much better in Bolivia than they are abroad tention, they courteously introduced est daughter Danielita to the shop to world - just like in ‘30’s advertisements - that cool cars as they have to be imported, which involves high shipping and themselves to Esme and me. ‘Me sacas buy a bottle of Coca-Cola, the Bolivian can get you fame and girls, in 2005 La Paz’s oldest and customs costs. Riders spend several thousand dollars souping up una foto?’ – ‘will you take my picture?’ equivalent of putting the kettle on and want to come and see you’. most famous street racing team was born. R-Evolution their cars for the race or simply to show off on the narrow La Paz Meet Araceli. It goes without saying she offering their guests a cup of tea. To my ‘What’s wrong?’ I asked. ‘I’ll put her on started it all in only two years later that more teams streets. Bolivian drivers do save on gas, which costs over fi ve times is not camera-shy. surprise, out of the three girls I only found the phone’. A quivering voice greeted joined the fold, among them were Street Team Rac- more in the UK. The rest of the afternoon is somewhat Liliana there. ‘The other girls are coming me on the other end. ‘Padrino? I’m em- 20 21 barrassed’. I could hear her sniffl ing. It Las Estrellitas, the Spanish word for ‘star- by the river. I was leaving the house turns out that, taking advantage of the lets’, but soon learned the name had and crossing the street, when a car end of the school year, Benita had got- already been taken. So they called hit me on the shoulder. To get away ten Araceli’s hair shaved off. Last time I them Las Ch’askitas, instead, which is the driver then ran over my leg’. saw her she proudly posed her striking the Quechua expression. Daniela was hospitalized for over a trenza. ‘Her hair was too thin and didn’t month. ‘I cried a lot but the doctor grow much’ Benita would later explain, She soon invited Araceli, Doña Benita’s told me “be thankful you still have ‘shaving it all off makes it grow back daughter to the band. ‘But we couldn’t a leg – you almost lost it”. After a stronger and thicker’. Two things sud- have a band with just two girls, we had while I was still sad, not because of denly made a lot more sense. Firstly, the to fi nd one more’, Dally tells me. Con- my accident, but because I thought logic behind a seemingly unspeakable veniently, she and her husband own I would no longer be part of the act of cruelty. Secondly, Araceli’s reluc- the local television channel, Canal 31, Ch’askitas. That was the hardest part tance to come and meet me. Jhonny so they decided to call for a televised of it all’. The hit-and-run (and pos- helped me to talk her over ‘don’t be audition for the third Ch’askita. ‘Over sibly drunken) driver was thankfully embarrassed Chelita, we won’t think 30 girls turned up but many of them left caught at the tranca further up the any less of you’. We went to pick her up crying after they didn’t make it through road. However, Daniela’s mum Cristi- at her house in Jhonny’s car. As a curi- the successive audition rounds’. In the na tells me that the man responsible ous aside, while ch’aska means star in end, Daniela was the one who shone barely paid $1000 ‘but the bills came Quechua, it is also used in the Andean through after three attempts. to over $6000. I am now in debt, but region to denote someone’s hair, es- what can I do. When your daughter pecially if it’s ruffl ed. Ch’askosa is the is hurt, you do whatever it takes to kind of thing you’d say to a girl who fi nd the money’. had morning hair, with that non-delib- Weeks after forming they made their erate just-woken-up look. Hardly what fi rst public appearance at the festival of While Daniela was in hospital the I encountered when Araceli came to La Virgen de Amparo (Our Lady of Ref- other Ch’askitas went to visit her. greet us. She was wearing a cozy hand- uge), one of the largest cultural events Even after she came out, she was still in the recovery process and could barely walk, let alone dance. The group had to carry on so they found two replacements. Dally tells me ‘I would speak to Daniela on the phone. She would ask “will I still be Despite the diffi culties the band to write in saying what they wanted later learn that Dally is the stage name able to be part of Las Chaskitas?” have continued to work hard and for Christmas. One boy wrote in ‘all of the girls’ mother, a compound and I would tell her that she would move from strength to strength. I really want are the Ch’askitas’. Lili- formed by the fi rst syllables of each always be a part of the group, but Highlights over the past year include ana has also broadened her artistic of their names (Daniela and Liliana). the most important thing was for her appearing in front of a crowd of horizons by taking part in an action Her real name is Margarita, and she leg to heal and for her to get better”. 2,500 people, as well as performing fi lm about gangs and the drug trade is an occasional actress as well as a Dally quickly points out that ‘none in Sacaba’s neighbouring regions. TV producer. Jhonny later adds: ‘We of the other girls we tried fi tted in as well as Daniela. The three girls just What lies ahead for the girls? They get along. They’re there for each cholito continue expanding their musi- other when they’re going through bandido cal repertoire, though their parents a hard time’. She was out of action and Jhonny (their manager/godfa- for a whole year, and in the past ther), are adamant about keeping two months she recovered enough the content of their songs relevant and was able to come back. Cris- Cholito bandido to their age group. ‘We don’t want tina states fi rmly that ‘because of eres culpable them to sing the Chuculún or El Ne- her accident I wanted her to move gro Está Rabioso. The Sirenitas [an- forward no matter what. I wanted Para que llorando other folk girl band from Tarata] sing to give her that support because it’s songs such as these. It’s not appropri- what my mother was never able to te cante ate’. They’ve planned a music video give me’. for next year for the song Colesterol. Dally explains: ‘we want to relate the knitted pink hat over her head, which in Cochabamba. They performed Te añoro en la noche content of the video with what the her friends helped her use to conceal alongside the ‘Cholitos’, their male- songs lyrics are about. In this song a pair of artifi cial trenzas. The Ch’askitas character dancing counterparts. Inter- Te canto en el dia a woman and a man sing to each were primed for the cameras, and the estingly, one of them was performed other. He says he doesn’t want to get three girls led me into one of the sets in by Danielita, Liliana’s younger sister. No me hagas reproches fat, yet she keeps offering him fatten- Canal 31. ‘Can you take some pictures Without a hint of embarrassment she Volveré algun dia ing foods’. I asked the girls to sing me of us here?’ Liliana half-asked and half- tells me ‘when I wear a chullo I look like some of the lyrics: ‘do you want me to ordered. a little boy!’ The girls’ self-assuredness prepare you a chicharrón, or a slice of shines across, not through arrogance ham, or do you prefer fried chicken my Jhonny tells me there used to be a and boastfulness, but through a dis- Cholito bonito love?’ ‘None of that for now my dear’. group called Las Chismositas (the little tinct lack of self-consciousness. Ch’askañawicito gossip queens), originally conformed Dally is aware of the tensions inherent by two sisters. Liliana was invited to take Like shooting starlets, their trajectory in managing a girlband and raising a part, but things quickly turned sour. launched them to places far and child. ‘We keep moving forward but we always tell them that what’s most ‘They made her feel bad. She sang bet- wide, leaving behind them a trail don’t demand too much from them important is humility. To greet po- ter than the other two girls but they still of admirers and stolen hearts. One at a number of private venues and because they’re still young and they litely, express themselves naturally in turned the volume of her microphone day, disaster struck. weddings across the country. Last are in school. But if they are still interest- front of people, treat everyone with down during performances’. Enough Christmas they were also involved ed in this later down the line we’re go- respect. The girls understand this’. was enough. Doña Dally soon took her Daniela remembers it as follows: ‘it in Canal 31’s campaign to collect ing to support them to continue mak- After a short pause he adds: ‘I thank daughter Liliana out of the group and was a Monday. I got home and left presents for Sacaba’s less fortunate ing music’. The girls have no shortage God because I’ve always wanted decided to start a new group from the house to go and look for my sis- children. Thousands came pouring of artistic role models. Jhonny himself to have a daughter. He gave me scratch. They considered calling them ter who was washing clothes down in. The channel also asked local kids has played in several folk bands, and I three’. 22 23 POST-APOCALYPTIC DREAM HOMES Bright, tall, new, and uniquely Boliv- also try to make the homes com- And they don’t come cheap. Some ian, the new style of homes in El Alto pletely different from anything you houses can be worth over a million and La Paz is eccentric - to say the have seen in Bolivia - or in the global USD, and many owners are forced least. West for that matter. into debt after making this enormous GRAND DESIGNS Some 20 years ago, nouveaux riches Upper levels are added simply for status statement. While many of these started erecting colourful monstrosi- parties, family gatherings or as a leg- new homeowners use architects, ties right beside the precarious homes acy for future generations. Bottom some people cut costs by doing the of their neighbours. These aren’t your fl oors are often used for businesses, architecture work themselves. APOCALYPTIC ARCHITECTURE average modern day stock market restaurants or shops. As we enter the End of the World, young, urban professionals (YUPPies) One theory is that the houses are these homes represent a new gold or insurance moguls. Instead, these based off of the miniature styrofoam sequin jacket for Bolivia’s mountain- members of Bolivia’s popular class homes found at Alasita Market. The capital region. Instead of building Text: Joel Balsam who mostly earned their money as toys are traditionally used to repre- windowless, unsafe buildings there is merchants or traders. sent what someone wants or dreams now an attention to aesthetics (cha- Photo: Amaru Villanueva As a chest-beating sign of status, of. In this theory, some people real- pi or not) and a desire to be unique these owners build their homes as ized their dreams and made their from both colonial past and Western large and as bright as possible. They own Bolivian Barbie DreamHouse. infl uences. PHOTO: diego maxi posadas

AT THE END OF DAYS

‘It’s been a historical dilemma for An- Makeshift, unfi nished, windowless and are rarely hired. Building unsafely can dean cities’, said Bolivian architect with enough stories to fi t generations earn the builder little more than a slap Mijael Bumuller. ‘An increase in demo- to come, homes litter the interior of La on the wrist from government regula- graphics causes thousands to move to, Paz’s crater valley and along the sides tors. Instead, Mother Nature provides and build on, the side of mountains’. of the cloud-scraping mountainside. her backlash. Annual landslides have You see it in Rio de Janerio in the world Many of them built illegally. swept hundreds of homes off the famous favelas, you see it in Peru, in Technically, every new home or add- mountain-side, leaving only rubble in Chile and of course in the picturesque on requires an architect or geologist their wake. After the end of the world,

sky-high city of La Paz, Bolivia. for consultation, but in reality, they expect La Paz to be reborn. PHOTOs: mario landivar 24 25 6. - B - 6.

If the end of the world arrives on De- walked through Bolivia’s largest and Thieves run rampant through the busy cember 21, as the Mayans predicted, most chaotic market, a place where market, so hold on tight to your be- D - 5.

two things will survive: cockroaches many Pacenos themselves say they longings, unless you want to involuntar- ‘GUESS WHO’ FACES OF and the Feria de El Alto. Every Sunday would never go, we felt like circus freaks. ily donate an iPod to the feria fund like E - 4.

and Thursday, thousands fl ock to one we did. In fact, it is probably safer if you EL ALTO MARKET of South America’s largest fl ea markets The feria predates the formal founding stay home and play ‘Guess Who’ Faces F - 3.

and encounter everything: from pigs of the city of El Alto, which was merely de El Alto—The Game. To play, simply the game and ’80s retro American football jackets a suburb of La Paz until its incorporation read about fi ve vendors we met on our A - 2.

to snakes and minibuses, all for a frac- in 1987. But in 1960, the feria was noth- recent outing and try to match them DESDE UN ALFILER HASTA UN TRACTOR AGRÍCOLA tion of the price that they’d be in the US ing more than a simple apple market, with their products. Stumped? Follow C - 1. -FROM A SAFETY PIN TO A FARM TRACTOR- or UK. home to a handful of stalls in a quiet the trusty hints at the bottom of each

Text and photos: Niall Flynn, Joel Balsam town on the altiplano. It has since ex- vendor bio. Walking down the streets of La Paz, the panded to an estimated 10,000 ven- answers pasty white face of a gringo can turn dors across dozens of city blocks, cover- Happy El Alto Games! May the more than a few heads. So, when we ing a vast twenty-fi ve square kilometres. odds be ever in your favour!

PHOTO: harriet marsden

a f b PICK YOUR MATCH e c d

Cecilia has worked at the feria In a muddy patch on the ‘I want to be a doctor’, says A 70 year old man sits on a We stumble upon three young Even beneath her heavy hat, for thirty years, even before the side of the feria, a stern and the confi dent 11-year-old who chair in front of a heap of . . . girls. One is small, quiet and Tiffania’s face and piercing city of El Alto existed. Back then serious old cholita, reluctant is manning a stall alone. That unusual antiques. You would afraid. The second is shy, but brown eyes are hypnotising. At the feria, she claims, was no to give her name, does not ambition makes his parents be a miracle worker if you does the talking. The last is just 16 years old, there is some- more than ten stalls. Now look at mince words for small talk or proud. Every Sunday (and could get any of these prod- cheeky and mischievous. ‘What thing about her innocence that it. Cecilia quickly fast-tracked to descriptions. ‘How is the prod- Thursdays, if he doesn’t have ucts to work. Still, Guzman is it for?’ we ask while pointing at makes us uneasy. Tiffania was becoming our Bolivian mother. uct?’ we ask. ‘Normal’, she to go to school), Eduardo urged us to move on quickly the product. Making a whistling one of very few vendors happy Instead of us asking her the ques- replies. ‘Is it hard to work in the works at the feria while his to allow for more potential sound and an explosion with their to talk to us. Six months working tions, she was the interrogator: Feria?’ ‘Normal’, she responds parents sell the same prod- buyers—as if anybody was mouths, they said ‘Jueguitos!’ in the feria hasn’t depleted ‘Where are you from?’ ‘Did you again while quickly ushering ucts on the other side of the buying anything at Guzman’s Clearly, we weren’t going to her enthusiasm, something arrive here by boat?’ ‘Where us away. Her hard-working market. So you think 11 is too stall. Guzman is rather new to buy the product for cooking like can’t be said for many of the have you been in Bolivia?’ And suppliers are only employed young to work in the feria? the feria, having only worked many of the cholita homemak- older vendors. Every single on. Her questions came with a for two or three years before Well, Eduardo has worked there for fi ve years. He used ers were. The girls immediately day, she and her mother trek genuine sense of curiosity, ac- she gets rid of them, but they there since he was 5. to be a construction worker, picked up on this and made the to a different market—a job Tif- companied by a nervous giggle. don’t really seem to mind. but too many years on the new sales pitch, just for us gringos. fania sees herself doing for the As if worried about our view of job ruined his back and There is something scarily entre- rest of her life. Their products Bolivia from what we saw at the forced him to change his oc- preneurial about three young arrive in South America from feria, she proclaimed, ‘Bolivia is cupation. The result? He now girls having a better market- Germany and China. Due to not like Africa, you know.’ That sits by the old abandoned ing strategy than most adults. Bolivia’s landlocked status, their was her way of defending the hint: you’ll find his products, railway line in El Alto with his Embellishing on the quality of their products are obtained from country she loves. but you won’t find a shop like dusty collection of.. product, the cheeky girl claimed the Chilean port of Iquique—in eduardo’s anywhere in the that they personally travelled to addition to a monthly trip to the global north. and, in such an im- Peruvian-Bolivian border. poverished city, most might find Brazil to pick up the goods, even hint: at 5 bolivianos a pop, that eduardo’s products are when the box clearly stated the her product boasts positive rather useless. still, eduardo product was not legal to sell in hint: her products were some of the claims he makes around 300 most popular in the market. and af- effects for many aspects of that country. health and well-being, includ- bolivianos a week, with his most ter doing some research, her stuff hint: tiffania’s products are ing curing pneumonia. you never popular product going for 25 looked like it passed the quality— hint: the product is used probably the most practical and know until you try it. we did. bolivianos. hint: junk. and affordability—test. for cooking. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. reliable of all.

26 27 Bolivian Express Grupo Express Press Cultural FOTOGRAFIA BOLIVIANA Calendar Editor: Sandra Boulanger December 2012 Review: Sharoll Fernandez ENCUÉNTRANOS EN FACEBOOK

‘Photography is not about the thing photographed. It is about how that thing looks photographed’ Garry Winogrand

xperiencing Bolivia is inex- the freshest possible snapshot of Boliv- hours looking for the most rigorous com- plicable. Descriptions are ia’s perennially innovative photography position (Herbert Müller) and to travel almost invariably wanting, scene. with those who take an interest in the and can leave us with a apparent simplicity of some people’s lingering sense of narrative Fotografía Boliviana is a communion lives in a single shutter (Michael Dunn). injustice. In this book, Sandra of images, an earnest homage, a dia- Furthermore, this book provides you Boulanger invites us to shed logue even. It features a vastly diverse with with the opportunity to appreciate our preconceived notions group of 65 local photographers, who the chromatic hues in a set of rusted tin before reading, and in that project an equally diverse presentation roofs (Tony Suarez) and to experience spirit, to look at the country of 460 photographs. The journey through the inebriating grace of a shark (Wolf- anew. Most remarkable is the monu- Bolivia takes the reader through its col- gang Leander). It is through these mani- mental effort involved in bringing to- ours, textures, faces, rhythms, concerns, fold eyes that the book invites us to ac- gether one of the most comprehensive riches, pains, stories, solemnity, vigour cess a Bolivia that we may or may not collections of Bolivian photography to and picardia. This collection gives us have seen. On this journey, we will most date. At nearly 400 pages, this megalith the rare chance to travel alongside art- certainly discover as to why Bolivia is as of contemporary local photography is ists who have the patience to spend inexplicable as it is. 28 PHOTO: caro rejas

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Photo: Katyussa Veiga