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Home , Kyaikto, Kyaukmyaung (Sagaing), Meiktila, Myingyan, Setse, Taukkyan

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Get the right guides for your trip

PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 1 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip

Welcome to Welcome to (Burma) ...... 2 Myanmar 10 Top Experiences ...... 6 (Burma) Need to Know ...... 12 If You Like...... 14 Month by Month ...... 16 Itineraries ...... 18 CREDIT Responsible Travel ...... 21 SHOESTRINGSHOEHOESTRING HEALTHY TRAVEL PHRASEBOOKSPHHRASEBOOKSO • Big tripstrips, Planning Your Trip ...... 27 10 Surreal & Traditional the edge of a chasm. Ride a small budgets colonial-era mansions. Mee To travel here is to encounter men wear- monks who have taught the ng skirt-like longyi, women smothered or feisty elderly Chin wom Multicountry TOPn thanakha (traditional make-up) and • tattooed with intricate desi Regions at a Glance ...... 31 EXPERIENCESbetel chewing grannies with mouths full

16 Top Events Water Festival (Thingya Month mid-April Taungbyone Nat Pwe Fe by August or early Septemb Looking for other travel resources? Independence Day, 4 Ja Tazaungmon, October Month or November Responsible Travel Ananda Pahto Festival, January Geographically beautiful and populated Key Points gentle people, Myanmar is also notorio » Travel independently rather than in a big for its human rights abuses. The Unit Nearly every active paya a week-long one at Kandaw- (p 51), the largest pay tour group. Nations, Amnesty International and H Shwedagon Paya (Buddhist temple) or ky- gyi Lake (p 48) in . in Myanmar. man Rights Watch are among the ma Is there a more stunning monument to religion in ? We don’t think so. In fact, the » Where possible, avoid using businesses sheer size and mystical aura of Yangon’s gilded masterpiece may even cause you to question respected bodies who have called the cou aung (Buddhist monastery) 1 owned by the government or those closely community hosts occasional your inner atheist. But it’s not all about quiet contemplation: Shwedagon Paya (p 71 ) is equal parts linked with it. try’s military rulers to account for their im Manao Festival religious pilgrimage and amusement park and your visit may coincide with a noisy ordination prisonment and mistreatment of politic celebrations of their own, z Costumed dancing, » Spread your money around, ie buy dissidents, use of forced labour, and viole often called paya pwe or copious drinking of rice souvenirs across the country, not just in crackdowns on peaceful demonstrations, ‘pagoda festivals’. Many Yangon. beer and 29 cows or buՖ alo April witnessed in September 2007. occur on full-moon days sacriÀ ced to propitiate nats Don’t compromise locals by your actions While joining in the » Many countries, including the US, Ca and nights from January to (traditional spirits) are part or topics of conversation. frolics of Thingyan ada, Australia and those of the Europe March, following the main Union, have and continue to apply econom of this Kachin State Day be fun, note that it » Do talk to locals – they relish outside rice harvest, but the build- event, held in on contact. sanctions. In 1995 the NLD also called for steaming hot in My tourism boycott (see p318 ), which led to cr up can last for a while. All 10 January (p 236) » Contribute to local charitable causes. during this month. icism of previous editions of this guideboo such festivals follow the with many locals of In 2010 this controversial travel boycott w Advance Reading o՗ cially dropped by the NLD, who now w Culture Shock! Myanmar, Saw Myat Yin come independent tourists who are mindf To Myanmar with Love, ed Morgan of the political and social landscape; ho Edwardson ever, those on large group package tours a Burma/Myanmar: What Everyone Needs discouraged. to Know, David I Steinberg Lonely Planet believes the answer to t The River of Lost Footsteps, Thant Myint U question of whether to visit Myanmar Freedom From Fear, Suu Kyi something that everyone has to decide f Perfect Hostage, Justin Wintle themselves; the box on p22 sums up the m Nowhere to Be Home, eds Maggie Lemere jor pros and cons. If you do go, this gui and Zoë West has been researched and designed to ma mise how much of your travel budget go directly to local people and minimise ho much goes to the regime. The chapters on p 290, p 293 and p3 1 are all good starting points for getting grips with the past and current situation

LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP PAGE UNDERSTAND For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, Learn about the big picture, so you advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas 289 MYANMAR chapters lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine (BURMA) can make sense of what you see

ches, then, to everyone’s surprise, called a national exploring the couldn’t lose. But at the 1990 election the NLD won machinations eats. The military simply refused to transfer power of Myanmar’s Myanmar (Burma) ted oliticians into jail. military government. Myanmar’s trade with its neighbours (particularly and its membership of Asean, have enabled the Lonely Planet in numbers tand increased international scorn and Western Today ...... 290 ry’s aggressive reaction to the 2007 protests (the

History ...... 293 3rd century 1st century 850 BC BC BC 70 12 100,000,000 190+ According to Burmese The Mon, who Possible founding o chronicles, Abhiraja migrated into the Beikthano (name People of Myanmar of the Sakiyan clan Ayeyarwady Delta from after the local word fo languages spoken seconds pass Lonely Planet guidebooks countries covered from founds present-day Vishnu), a Pyu tow Taguang, 127 miles (and from China before east of current-da by our writers between posts sold, and still counting by a Lonely Planet (Burma) ...... 307 north of ; his that), establish their Magwe; it’s believe son travels south and capital, , and to have Á ourished fo founds a kingdom at have À rst contact with about 400 year on our Thorn Tree guide Politics, Economics Reli gion & Belief Rakhaing (Arakan). . Faith and superstition go hand in hand in Myanmar. About 89% of the travel forum ar people of Myanmar are Buddhist, but many also pay heed to ancient

en animist beliefs in natural spirits or nats. Locals are proud of their beliefs f a and keen to discuss them. Knowing something about Buddhism in par- & Sanctions ...... 315 Ma ticular will help you better understand life in the country. Freedom of religion is guaranteed under the country’s constitution. ch However Buddhism is given special status. Myanmar’s ethnic patchwork ive rch of people also embraces a variety of other faiths, among which Islam and Environment & Wildlife .. 322 s. Christianity are the most popular. Buddh ism STAY IN TOUCH The Mon were the À rst people in Myanmar to practise mean Eating in Myanmar in Doctrine of the Elders) Buddhism, the oldest and most conservative lonelyplanet.com/contact form of the reli ion. King Asoka, the great Indian em eror, is known to hiih(khhGld L d’)d i h (Burma) ...... 328 AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ lonelyplanet Religion & Belief ...... 338 %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 facebook.com/ Arts & Architecture ...... 344 Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607 against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Aung San Suu Kyi ...... 352 Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK 186 City Rd, London, EC1V 2NT management of the world’s forests. %020 7106 2100, fax 020 7106 2101 newsletter

myanmar-11-cover.indd 2 31/08/2011 11:08:09 AM PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 34 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

Temples of p149

Northern Myanmar p233 Mandalay & Around p199 Western ^# Myanmar Eastern p268 Myanmar Bagan & p166 Central Myanmar p111 Around ^#Yangon Yangon p36 p73

Southeastern Myanmar p91

PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 359 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

Directory A–Z ...... 360 ho (Mar Listi ordered b and divide Transport ...... 371 with regard » budget (do Directory $20) » midrange (do to $60) Health ...... 383 A–Z » top end (over Business H tiled rooms with air-con, a Language ...... 387 Accommodation refrigerator and a private Government o՗ bath with hot water. cluding post o՗ Myanmar has hundreds Nearly all accommodation telephone centr of privately run hotels and choices include breakfast in Monday to Frid guesthouses licensed to their rates. StaՖ at most can 4.30pm. Shop Index ...... 399 accept foreigners. To get also change money, arrange day to Saturd he licence they supposedly for laundry service (starting to 6pm or la ust keep at least À ve rooms at K1000 per load at budget only half-d reach a certain standard. guesthouses), rent bikes, Restaura many are simple fam- arrange taxis, sell transport 9pm, w uesthouses or mini- tickets, and À nd you local open Map Legend ...... 407 metimes with just English-speaking guides. bo t, a fan that At night, all hotels and ht (when other accommodation op a tions must Àll in po

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY John Allen, Allen John Smith, Jamie Smith Look out for these icons: Our author’s A green or No payment o recommendation S sustainable option F required

YANGON ...... 36

AROUND YANGON . . . 73 DELTA REGION ...... 74 Thanlyin & Kyauktan ...... 74 Twante ...... 75 ...... 76 Chaung Tha Beach ...... 80 Ngwe Saung Beach ...... 83 Around Ngwe Saung ...... 85 NORTH OF YANGON ...... 85 Taukkyan ...... 85 Bago (Pegu) ...... 86

SOUTHEASTERN MYANMAR ...... 91 ...... 93 Mt Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) ...... 93 (Moulmein) . .96 Around Mawlamyine . . . . . 101 KAYIN STATE ...... 104 Hpa-an ...... 105 Around Hpa-an ...... 108 TANINTHARYI (TENASSERIM) REGION . . 110

BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR ...... 111 BAGAN ...... 113 Nyaung U ...... 116 Old Bagan ...... 121 Myinkaba ...... 123 New Bagan (Bagan Myothit) ...... 124 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

AROUND BAGAN ...... 126 INLE LAKE ...... 177 ...... 247 Mt Popa ...... 126 Nyaungshwe ...... 178 Around Shwebo ...... 249 Salay ...... 128 The Lake ...... 184 MANDALAY TO LASHIO . . .250 ...... 129 Around Inle Lake ...... 188 ...... 250 ...... 130 KENGTUNG & BORDER Around Pyin Oo Lwin . . . . .255 Around Monywa ...... 132 AREAS ...... 192 Kyaukme ...... 257 Kengtung (Kyaingtong) . . .193 ...... 135 Hsipaw ...... 258 Tachileik ...... 197 YANGON–MANDALAY Around Hsipaw ...... 262 HIGHWAY ...... 135 KAYAH STATE ...... 198 Lashio ...... 263 ...... 136 THE FAR NORTH ...... 266 Nay Pyi Taw ...... 139 MANDALAY & AROUND ...... 199 ...... 141 WESTERN YANGON–BAGAN MANDALAY ...... 201 MYANMAR ...... 268 HIGHWAY ...... 143 AROUND MANDALAY . . . . 223 RAKHAING STATE ...... 270 (Prome) ...... 143 ...... 224 Ngapali Beach ...... 270 Around Pyay ...... 145 Ayeyarwady Bridges . . . . .225 Thandwe ...... 274 Magwe ...... 148 (Ava) ...... 225 (Akyab) ...... 275 ...... 228 TEMPLES OF Mrauk U (Myohaung) . . . .279 ...... 230 BAGAN ...... 149 Around Mrauk U ...... 286 Paleik ...... 231 THE TEMPLES ...... 153 CHIN STATE ...... 287 Yankin Hill ...... 231 Old Bagan ...... 154 Mt Victoria (Nat Ma Taung) ...... 287 North Plain ...... 156 NORTHERN Kalaymyo () ...... 288 Central Plain ...... 159 MYANMAR ...... 233 Myinkaba Area ...... 161 MYITKYINA & THE UPPER New Bagan Area ...... 163 AYEYARWADY ...... 235 South Plain ...... 163 Myitkyina ...... 236 Nyaung U Area ...... 164 Around Myitkyina ...... 241 Myitkyina to Bhamo . . . . .242 EASTERN Bhamo (Banmaw) ...... 242 MYANMAR ...... 166 Around Bhamo ...... 244 THAZI TO INLE LAKE . . . . . 167 Bhamo to Katha ...... 244 Thazi ...... 167 Katha ...... 245 Kalaw ...... 170 Katha to Kyaukmyaung . . .246 Pindaya ...... 175 Kyaukmyaung ...... 246 › Myanmar (Burma) Top Experiences › CHINA Hkakabo (TIBET) Razi 0 200 km (19,321ft) 0 120 miles THIMPHU Pangsaw BHUTAN Pass Putao

River CHINA Brahmaputra Sumprabum Hsipaw Khamti Springboard for discovering INDIA tribal village life (p258) River Hpakant KACHIN Indawgyi STATE Lake Myitkyina

Chindwin Bagan Homilin Amazing plain of Pyin Oo Lwin BANGLADESH Gange ancient temples (p113) Cool off at this hill station (p250) s Tamu Bhamo River Katha Ruili DHAKA Kawlinn ver Mu-se Ri Namkham SAGAING dy Tiddim DIVISION Kalaw arwa Kalaymyo Trek out to minority Chindwin Lashio Ayey villages (p170) Thanlwin Rive Ye-U Namhsan Shwebo Hsipaw r Kyaukme Minigun Pyin Oo Monywa Lwin S h a n

Sagaing P l a t e a u River VIETNAM Mong La Amarapura Mandalay SHAN MANDALAY STATE CHIN Pakokku DIVISION STATE Mong Ping Paletwa Nyaung U Myingyan Pindaya Kunhing Kengtung Mt Victoria Bagan Mt Loilem River Mrauk U Teknaf (10,016ft) Popa Meiktila Loi-Mwe Salay Namsang Inle Lake Discover the former Maungdaw MAGWE Nyaungshwe Fishermen, ruined stupas Rakhaing capital (p279) Mrauk U Kalaw Inle Tachileik Mekong DIVISION Minbu and floating markets (p177) Minbya R Lake Ayey Mae Sai Sittwe a Magwe RAKHAING k Taungdwingyi h 20º N STATE arwad a NAY PYI Pyinmana Chiang Rai i Loikaw LAOS n TAW g y Lawpita 18º N

16º N

y Yinnbye Kyaukpyu B a g o KAYAH Kyun Ramree STATE Pyay Taunggok Padaung Taungoo Manaung Shwedaung Sittoung Pasauwng

Kyun Thandwe Y BAGO Ngapali Beach o River DIVISION m Y o m a

a VIENTIANE 14º N River Kanthaya KAYIN Bay of STATE Hinthada Bengal Gwa

Expressway Yakyi

Yangon-Mandalay Bago AYEYARWADY Chaung Tha Beach Thaton Mt Kyaiktiyo Ngapali Beach DIVISION YANGON Ngwe Saung Yangon DIVISION Hpa-an A gilded, gravity-defying Superb sand, sun Pathein Twante Kawkareik Mae Sot rock (p93) and seafood (p270) Myaungmya Kunyangon MON Mawlamyine Dedaye Letkhokkon STATE 12º N Gulf THAILAND of Mouths of the Mottama Payathonzu Ayeyarwady Three Pagodas Pass Ye Sangkhlaburi Shwedagon Paya Dazzling temple in Yangon (p43) Yebyu Maungmakan Dawei 10º N BANGKOK Zalut TANINTHARYI CAMBODIA DIVISION 90º E Andaman Palaw Islands A N D A M A N (INDIA) S E A Myeik 92º E Archipelago Myeik 94º E Tanintharyi 96º E Bokpyin 98º E Gulf of 100º E Thailand

102º E Kawthoung Ranong 104º E OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS John Allen Coordinating Author; Bagan & Central Myanmar, Temples of Bagan, Western Myanmar Before his fi rst visit to Myanmar in 2001, ‘John’ took advice from experts and fellow travellers on whether he should go to what he knew was a brutal military dictatorship. He found a country brimming with beautiful sights and gentle people who were delighted to have the chance to interact with those from beyond their borders. A freelance author and photographer who has produced many guides for Lonely Planet since 1999, including several in Southeast Asia, John was delighted to return to the country a decade later as the coordinating author of this guidebook.

Allen John Smith Around Yangon, Eastern Myanmar, Southeastern Myanmar, Yangon ‘Allen’ fi rst visited Myanmar in the late ’90s while working as an English teacher in Bangkok. Despite several subsequent visits, never did he suspect that later he’d be authoring the very book that fi rst guided him there. A native of Oregon transplanted to Southeast Asia, Smith is a freelance writer and photographer who likes writing about and taking photos of food most of all, because it’s delicious.

Jamie Smith Mandalay & Around, Northern Myanmar ‘Jamie’ is the author of several travel guidebooks cover- ing Southeast Asia. And like many frequent visitors to the region, it’s Myanmar that has long been his favourite destination thanks in great part to the stoic humanity and spontaneous delight of its long-suff ering people. When not researching travel publications, Jamie is most likely to be found in suburban Belgium, coastal England or in Azerbaijani jazz clubs playing the same old blues riff s he learnt 20 years ago in Japan.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 11th edition – Dec 2011 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 469 4 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2011 Photographs © as indicated 2011 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’