The Settlement Pattern of Cloth Merchants, Drapers and Weavers in the Textile City of Leiden, 1498-1748

THE SETTLEMENT PATTERN OF CLOTH MERCHANTS, DRAPERS AND WEAVERS IN THE TEXTILE CITY OF LEIDEN, 1498-1748

Roos van Oosten LEIDEN AS A CENTRE OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY a single worker was unthinkable. In Leiden, although The textile industry has played an important role in cloth production was organized as a cottage industry, Leiden from its earliest days. It is estimated that in the there was a high degree of specialization: weaving was Early Modern period a good two-thirds of the working done by weavers and fulling by fullers. The semi- population was active in this industry.1 Whereas in finished and finished products were then subjected to Leiderdorp the weaving, fulling and other steps in the a strict quality control regime.3 The inspections took PAGINA’S 38-51 process of turning wool into cloth might be under- place outside the workplaces in the so-called halls. taken by the same textile worker,2 in nearby Leiden the The textile industry in Leiden before circa 1580 is idea of such a production process being in the hands of referred to as the ‘oude draperie’ (old drapery), there after as the ‘nieuwe draperie’ (new drapery). A hall- m 1. Isaac Claesz. van Swanenburg, De Leidse Stedenmaagd met de mark of the ‘new’ cloth industry was that it was not Oude en de Nieuwe Neringhe [Maid of Leiden with Old and New confined to wool alone, but included wool in combina- Cloth Industries], 1596-1601 (Museum De Lakenhal, Leiden) tion with linen, cotton and silk.4 39

------16 As yet, no In it she re 14 12 . That source has several has source That 15 Urban Bodies Urban 17 Bisschops does mention that full 18 The localization of two hundred practi hundred two of localization The 13 Justin Colson investigated occupational clustering occupationalinvestigated Colson Justin Carole Rawcliffe published her study of Norwich Norwich in of study her published Rawcliffe Carole In his study of Antwerp Tim Bisschops uncovered Turning to the explanations for the we clustering, drawbacks (as do property and taxation records for that One ismatter). that allfor which London, proba The ‘1400’ sample covers data from the period 1380 to dataperiodthecovers1380 from sample ‘1400’ The sample 1420, the data ‘1550’ from the period to 1530 consid size sample the increasesstratagem That 1570. comparison over time has been made. made. been has time over comparison in based London the for on period refer 1400 to 1550, ing records. tenoccupations in of itself,is tioners an achievement given thatbut Antwerp inhabitants 20,000 just had at that point in time, the sample is small. wills. in occupations to ences fortyonly are there 1500, inhabitantsin 40,000 had bly solves author The occupation. to references localizable this shortcoming with sliding, forty-year samples. that no great strides have been made. In particular I would like to mention here studies of Norwich, Ant into ResearchStrasbourg. and Bologna London, werp, the clustering of practitioners of certain occupations presence of twoparts:inventoryan of consistsusually certaininan occupationsareas, and of clustering and begin us Let phenomenon. this for account to attempt such. as clustering with bookacclaimedhighly her initia developed authorities citymedieval how counts tives aimed at keeping the urban populace healthy. theof is one She few researchers to have her depicted findings ina street map where, inaddition to water ways and important markets and buildings, occupa tional clusters are also indicated. It should, however, be noted that it is not entirely clear which historical sources underpin this cartographic ‘occupational to pography’. clusters of ten different occupations around the year using publicly accessible conveyanc 1400 (1395-1404) sance and pollution by assigning settlement zones to various industries. Dyers and tanners were clustered thatdownstreamrivertownso the the centre along of their waste products immediately in located left were occupations smelly theaddition, In cincts. city pre the north-eastern corner ofing the city south-westerly so that wind the blew prevail their away noxious fromleft is fumes it the but city.river, the to close located were dyers and ers erably, erably, but even so the numbers group per remain occupational small. find that although this aspect is covered by Rawcliffe by studiesthe in attention less receives Norwich,it for Bisschops (Antwerp) and Colson (London). The pat tern that Rawcliffenui odour of mapsavoidance the management’, can ‘smellscape be characterized as

------De Leidse De (1596-1601) That is curious All the same, the 5 10 But although the Geschiedenis van de 11 But there But was area one that 8 and the accompanying six vol As we know from other cities as 9 6 As the historian Leo Noordegraaf once put 7 Research has shown that the distinction between The expansion of production was prompted by theby wasprompted production expansion of The The The Leiden cloth industry has been exhaustively How then should research then should How into and interpretation the old and new cloth industry may have been clear-cut than has less been suggested. Posthumus did not explore: whether textile workers in textileworkers whether explore: not did Posthumus geographically were industry clothing new and old the it, ‘It’s all in Posthumus’. ‘It’s it, on street names does not get us very far, however. Most Most however. far, very us get not does names street on one- the suggestingnames street have cities European time existence of an occupational cluster, such as transition was celebrated as a glorious theinpainting history,asdepicted Leiden’s moment in stedemaagd met de oudeen nieuwe neringhe by Isaac Claesz van Swanenburg (1537-1614), (fig. 1). 1). (fig. Swanenburg(1537-1614), van Claesz Isaac by influxhundreds, of not if of thousandsreligious refu tions has received less attention. INTERNATIONALRESEARCHINTO SETTLEMENT PATTERNS hascity the inwealth of spatialdistributionthe While been investigated on more than one occasion in the past, the study of the spatial distribution of occupa terns of textile occupations in Leiden, I would first like first would I Leiden, in occupationstextile of terns settlement theinternational researchinto consider to cities. Europeanvarious in groupsoccupational of ers’ ers’ Street) but relying solely on in those Vollersgracht example, For designations misleading. be to proves Leiden retained that name well into the seventeenth century, yet there were scarcely any fullers still living there as early as 1498. clustered according to trade. Additional research based research Additional trade. to according clustered Vollersgracht (Fullers’ Canal), Plotersgracht (Ploters’ Canal) or Witteleertouwerstraat (White Leather Dress umes of sources by Posthumus N.W. are a veritable gold mine. after product. researched. The over 1200-page gees from the (Catholic) Southern Netherlands. For Leiden, this turnabout spelledand economic thein upsurge endan of beginning aof longthe recesand sion demographic growth. The finishedproduct changed as well: serge, a collective term heavier for different the than typesfeel of flexible more a with fabrics lighter ‘old’ Leiden cloth, rapidly became the most sought- lakenindustrieLeidsche subject has received less attention, that does not mean not does that attention, less received has subject because the historical literature frequently refers to the fact that the medieval city was characterized by strong occupational clustering. well, well, street names were static and at a certain point reality. socio-economic reflect to ceased structured? craftspeople be Before of clustering the of introducing my own research into the settlement pat

BULLETIN KNOB 2020 • 3 40 BULLETIN KNOB 2020 • 3 41 ------reders 24 The cloth was also 26 23 This meant that physical inspection of , the official charged with attaching the lead lead the attaching with charged official the , 25 prenter The The study’s relatively early start year and the rela The The period under consideration here, 1498-1748, specializationdegree of high thethein of Because inspected in the weaver’s home while the fabric was still ‘in the ropes’ on (i.e. the This loom). meant that the to home at weavers the visited quality, attestingto seal semi-finished and finished products took place in the hall, although there were also was in-home wool the inspections. of qualitythe that likely is it example, For inspected in the draper’s home. suses – occupations bound were to occur in sufficient numbers over a longer period. They also had occupations to be whoseexample, for dyers, and practitioners fullers unlike wished, they ever were free settlewhose wherlocations in seventeenth-century Leiden were authorities. city the dictatedby unusual. quite is investigation under period long tively The localization of occupational groups makes great thehistorical of demands sources.Serial sourcescov Clé periodarescarce, especially long pre-1550. a ering shops of location theinvestigated example, for Lesger, in Amsterdam, but serial data were from before 1585 either non-existent or difficult to find. TRADES AND HALLS To ensure the production of woollen tent quality and a standard fabric width, the city of of a Leiden consis inspectioninspecrigorous system. establisheda The serge and cloth the as such trades, sectortextile of tion thatasserted Posthumus hall. a on centred was trades, to “subject be should pieces all that was idea main ‘the the hall”’. way around, with inspection halls being established in established being hallsinspection with around, way neighbourhoods where there was already a lot of tex argumentin my on later we tileHowever, production. will see that there was a for using preference existing hall new a of construction the when that and buildings was contemplated, the availability of (large) plots of land was the key consideration. was determined by the availability of covering thesourcessimilar say to necessaryis which sources, serial alonger period of time. Recently 1498- period the a from series censuses two and registers of ment tax assess were 1748 opened to the public. These records have made it possible to determine whether there was any tradesclusteringcloth of around the Lakenhal (Cloth Hall) and of serge trades around the Saaihal (Serge Hall). Leiden textile industry a great many articledifferentthis In crafts process. production the in involved were I focus on the cloth merchants (cloth buyers, and clothiers), drapers and weavers. This choice was that consideration practical the by primarilyinformed cen and registers assessment tax – used sources the in

------ The work 21 He concluded He 19

Looking at the loca the at Looking 20 22 Colson sees certain agglomeration benefits offered offered benefits certain agglomeration sees Colson Theoretically, the relationship between home home between relationship the Theoretically, The above-mentioned publications, with their indi their with publications, above-mentioned The More indications in that direction are furnished by furnishedare direction that in indications More by the co-location of the same occupations. However, he only suggests an underlying relating to naturallocation in the case of mercers: dealers advantage in luxury, oftensilk, fabrics. In the first half ofthe fif to the reader to work out whether that was downstreamwas that whether out work to reader the to or upstream and based on some form of smellscape management.

finishedor finished productundertheir arm. Assum foot, on city the around usuallymoved people that ing it seems logical that textile workers would opt for a short distance between their residence and the cloth distance). (house–hallhall tain areas of Leiden and that the location of the halls the of location the that and tain Leiden areas of where fabrics were inspected was a critical factor in live. to determining textilechose where workers THE STUDY DESIGN My aim in what follows is to substantiate cer the inoccurred thesisoccupations textile of clustering a that THE TEXTILETHE LEIDEN: INDUSTRYIN vidual merits and shortcomings, helped me to design my research into the settlement patterns Leiden. in workers of textile number of localizedbackground of lack the notice also occupationswill readers minded is small. Historically-transportactivities workers. of the about information tion maps this seems highly likely, but here too the ations were paramount. In this context, Arnaud points Arnaud context, this In paramount. were ations to the residential location of transport workers: carri was there where Market Corn the near lived usually ers an abundance of work, and watermen along the river where the barges were moored. kets and other topographicalfeatures.other and kets a study by Colin Arnaud. For the cities of Bologna (1385) (1385) Bologna of cities the For Arnaud. Colin by study a and Strasbourg (1427 and 1466), two medium-sized cities comparable in population to Antwerp the compared (25,000 he inhabitants respectively), 18,000 and distribution of occupations with the location of mar teenth century they were mainly located in the vicinitythe in locatedmainly were theycentury teenth of the Mercers’ Hall. Colson rightly points out that proximity to the hall might not have been the motivating onlyfactor. As such, this single example does not offerproof that thehouse–hall distanceplayed a role. decisive hall played a central role in the production process: dealers, inspectors and textile semi- a workers without all or with put times, in set at an here appearance that in Bologna the residence of workers who didn’t work from home was mainly influenced by financial means, whereas in Strasbourg occupational consider shop shop and hall might also have come about the other 2. City map by Christiaan Hagen, 1670; details showing the Lakenhal on the Oude Singel (Y) and the Saaihal (X) on Steenschuur (Erfgoed Leiden en Omstreken) BULLETIN KNOB 2020 KNOB BULLETIN

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At 24 metres, the 40 42 The owner proved willing proved owner The (neither adequate nor large 38 from 1642 (fig. 3). In 1671 there1671 3). In from (fig. 1642 Accordingly, for fivedecades (1589- 39 The choice fell on developed plots on the 37 41 A second limitation of tax registers and censuses is censuses andtaxregisters of limitation second A Taxation sources and censuses have their limita There There is more clarity with respect to the Saaihal, The daily traffic toand fromthe halls in Leiden to sell and to vacate the property within seven weeks. Thereafter the demolition of the existing buildings and the construction of the Lakenhal proceeded expe Gezicht op de Lakenhal oth and weavers hundred two or hundred a of talkwas pers. From this we learn that a higher proportion of poor people lived in the of West 345 (39% addresses) districts. addresses) 705 of (37% Norththe and that an occupation is by no means recorded for every relatively are sources Leiden the said, That household. well provided with occupational details. For example, in the tax register for the Tiende Penning an of 1561 occupation was recorded against half the names, in ers who visited the halls daily. TEXTILE OF DISTRIBUTION SPATIAL THE LEIDENIN OCCUPATIONS The first step in discovering whether there was any clustering of textile occupations in the vicinity of the occu these of distribution the map to is halls Leiden pations across the city. But how does one obtain the necessary information about Leiden craftsmen?This is where the aforementionedsuses come in. The most important taxation of these are the recordsVermogensbelasting (wealth tax) of 1498, the and Tiende cen Penning (ten per cent asset revenue tax) the of income 1557, (household Familiegeld Klein the census, 1581 census. 1748 the and 1674 of tax) tions. textileWealthy dealers appear oftenmore than example. for fullers, or weavers spinners, impecunious The Vermogensbelasting 1498 is an exception in this respect; this register also recorded the names of pau suffisant ende genough). Accordingly, root it was genoech decided to erect a new building. ditiously. temporarily being After 1583. in established was which Nazareth former the of accommodatedchurch thein klooster, the hall was Jacobsgasthuis. housed in the former Sint ing. In other words, we should not picture a hall as a discretestructure,largewithin a asroomrather a but building. must have been considerable, for the ten thousand lengths of cloth produced annually were subjected to several inspection rounds. Some idea of Steenwijck-Gaspoel’s van the Susanna from activitygleaned be can lengths of cloth they carried must have weighed pretty weighed have carriedmust they cloth of lengths heavily. Oude Singel canal (fig. 2b). 1640) the Saaihal1640) and the Lakenhal shared this build

------31 , the , looi , the hori The division The pers In the Middle 30 32 upter stede halle stede upter Posthumus doesPosthumus rauwe rauwe persenaars 28 Thereafter inspec Thereafter (later 34 It has been suggested that after 35 and the inspection process itself The sources are unclear on this point, 36 Initially the paertse 33 te paertse te . Presumably it was the weavers who brought After this inspection, known asprenten het 29 27 In the old cloth industry that process had been The The word ‘hall’ as used here does not refer to the where the lead cloth seals were attached to ap to attached were seals cloth lead the where paertsen check thecheck evenness of the weave and the width of the cloth. Ages this submission of wares for inspection was re more straightforward hall.more How one wasjust thereas the unfinished cloth to the hall. After which the weaver weaver the which After hall. the to cloth unfinished the would it where home takenback have cloth the would be collected by the draper. It is also possible that the weaver delivered it to the draper. Whatever the case, deliverytake to draper the for wasimportant thing the craftsmannext in the to passedbe could it that so it of the chain of production. but but it is not impossible that Sint Jacobsgasthuis con the siege there was no longer any full-fledged cloth hall cloth full-fledged any longer no was there siege the or cloth trade. ing buildings were investigated but judged to be nyet ed the capacity of the fulling mills. In 1639 the need for for need the 1639 In mills.fulling the of capacity the ed a new broadcloth inspection hall arose. Several exist tinued to function as an inspection hall for broadcloth. broadcloth. for hall inspection an as function to tinued the Whatever production of woollen the case, by 1631 textiles had increased to such an extent that it exceed – in the town hall, on Breestraat. on hall, town the in – tion took place in the former Sint Jabobsgasthuis on Steenschuur 2a). (fig. It is unclear whethercloth was still In inspected 1574. afterhere Spanish the siegeof any event, the production of woollen fabrics declined steeply in this period. zontal rod over which the cloth was hung for inspec stoodtion) in the wool hall, but from the first halfof it was 1567 centuryfifteenththe until ferred to as to ferred as covered space where textiles were sold, but to the to but textilessold, where were space covered hal proved cloth. It was here that the semi-finished and finishedproducts were inspected toensure that they 4). qualityhigh standardsthe met (fig.

ever, in the new cloth industry several kinds of woollen woollen of kinds severalindustry cloth new the in ever, severalhalls. were there so and produced were fabrics At its high point, textileLeiden’s industry had seven trade ‘No Posthumus, quote To halls. seven and trades without a hall, hall no without a trade’. cloth cloth trades were brought to the relevant hall to be inspected and re-measured by the (inspectors of semi-finishedcloth). not not mention whose job this was subject andthe on the light any sources shed tohe appear not do accessed either. into trades and halls was strict in A draperLeiden. or general the in weaver or draper a simply not was weaver specializedthe of one trades.to If belonged but sense he wanted to switch from the serge to the broadcloth trade, for example, this had to be officially recorded. semi-finishedproducts in both the serge andbroad 3. Susanna van Steenwijck-Gaspoel, Gezicht op de Lakenhal te Leiden [View of the Lakenhal in Leiden], 1642 (Museum De Lakenhal, Leiden)

the 1748 census occupations were recorded for as many the city. A concentration of any occupational group is as 93% of households. By comparison, in Amsterdam described as clustered when over 33% of that occupa- the tax register for the Tiende Penning of 1562 recorded tional group lived in a particular part of the city. In an occupation for only 16% of taxpayers.43 Given the addition, clustering is characterized as modest (33- BULLETIN KNOB 2020 KNOB BULLETIN limitations of the sources it is necessary to bear in 49%), strong (50-65%) and very strong (over 66%). mind that the surveys presented here do not reflect the When looking at the clustering per district it is neces- total number of craftsmen.44 sary to be clear about which division of the city is being As already mentioned, the textile-related occupa- used. The tax registers were grouped according to tions selected for analysis were those of cloth mer- bonnen, the historical term for districts in Leiden. In chant (cloth buyer, reder, and clothier), draper and the 1581 census, for example, there were seventeen, weaver. Drapers occupied an intermediate position but their number and boundaries varied over time.

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3 between cloth buyers and weavers. In 1498 they were Historical research into the distribution of wealth usu- still wholesalers, in 1748 retailers. ally sticks to the division into bonnen. But this is prob- 44 The next step entails linking craftsmen to areas of lematical when making comparisons across several years. For example, over the years, the boundaries of THE OLD CLOTH INDUSTRY: CLUSTERING AROUND the Hogewoerd and Levendaal bonnen underwent sev- THE CLOTH HALL? eral changes. The 1498 tax register includes 114 drapers. Most be- To preclude any ambiguities that might arise from longed to Leiden’s financial elite, although it is also the differing district boundaries, I have used larger clear that there were wide variations in affluence. In units in my research. These are based as much as pos- that respect drapers formed a less homogeneous group sible on natural boundaries in the form of waterways that year than the dyers, for example, among whom such as the rivers Oude Rijn, Nieuwe Rijn, Rijn (Rhine) there was very little difference between minimum and and Vliet, and canals like the Vollersgracht (later maximum assessments. It is clear that the term draper Langebrug). This resulted in the identification of six covers wealthy and less wealthy individuals. There is districts inside the medieval city walls: Centre-old, no question of any clustering in a particular district, Centre-Pieterswijk, North-old, East-old, South and even when the amount of the assessment is taken into West (fig. 5). account: some less wealthy drapers lived in the centre The seventeenth-century city expansion contains while the wealthiest were spread across the entire city. two areas: North-new comprises the districts that were In 1557 and 1561 there was a moderate clustering of developed in 1611 and 1644, East-new most of the 1659 drapers in East-old. In the same period (1544, 1557, city expansion. The South district was also expanded 1561) there was also a moderate clustering of weavers in 1659 but given the modest scale of this expansion no in that district. In other words, the settlement pattern distinction has been drawn between South-old and of drapers in these years corresponded to that of weav- South-new. The expansion areas are typical textile ers. This is logical given that drapers and weavers neighbourhoods and contain a large contingent of would have regularly visited one another’s home for the weavers’ cottages. purpose of exchanging raw materials and semi-finished With this information regarding craftsmen and products. Cloth buyers are mentioned by name for clustering in mind we can now look to see whether it is the first time in the tax registers of 1557 and 1561. possible to mount a plausible case for the proposition Their numbers are small – fifteen in both years – but that the halls were ‘magnets’ that drew the craftsmen unlike the drapers they were strongly clustered in to them and caused or contributed to the observed Centre-old (fig. 6a). This is noteworthy because cloth clustering. buyers were not especially wealthy. Posthumus

4. Isaac Claesz. van Swanenburg, Het vollen en verven [Fulling and dyeing], 1594-1596, detail (Museum De Lakenhal, Leiden) observed the same concentration in the later period THE NEW CLOTH INDUSTRY: CLUSTERING AROUND (1599, 1623, 1644) as well, describing them as small THE SERGE AND CLOTH HALLS? traders whose clientele lived mainly in the Rhine- The occupational designation reder (manufacturer) land.45 appears for the first time in the 1581 census. Although The wantsnijders, too, were clustered together in one and the same person could apparently be regis- Centre-old (fig. 6a). Want is the medieval Dutch word tered as both cloth buyer and reder – two textile work- for broadcloth or woollen cloth, and later on wantsnij- ers identified in the census asreder appear in a differ- ders started calling themselves kleermakers or cloth- ent source for the same year as cloth buyer – the iers.46 Kleermakers did not repair or refashion clothing, locational preference of reders differed from that of which was done by seamstresses or dealers in sec- cloth buyers.51 In 1581 the reders were moderately clus- ond-ha nd clot h i ng ; t he y made ne w clot h i ng.47 Wantsni- tered in East and South (fig. 6a). Five are recorded as jders/kleermakers were also traders. This can be from Flanders and seven of the nineteen reders are deduced from the fact that until 1411 the wanthuis was recorded as having lived less than twelve years in their the name of the place where the cloth trade took place. current abode. This group of newcomers may have The Wanthuis district takes its name from this build- strategically geared their location to that of the Laken- ing.48 The wanthuis w a s pr i ma r i ly i nt ended for wantsni- hal, which at that time was on the Steenschuur. jders, who rented stalls there from which to sell the In 1674 and 1748 the reders were strongly clustered woollen cloth.49 In 1413 the function of the wanthuis in North-new. The respective trade was not recorded was transferred to the town hall.50 for every reder, making it impossible to ascertain whether there were more broadcloth reders than serge reders in the vicinity of the cloth hall. Nevertheless, the 5. The districts and the locations of the cloth halls and the Saaihal strong concentration of reders in this northern district is striking. Wealthy reders might have been expected to settle in the affluent city centre or on fashionable Rapenburg.52 Although the number of reders was small in both reference years, the clustering was strong. The trend was the same in both reference years, making it Rhine oude rijn reasonable to surmise that this locational preference was based on a practical, business-related imperative (proximity to the Cloth Hall). The reders increasingly developed into wealthy industrialists who traded with foreign countries.53 From around 1640 they started to fulfil a new role. In nieuwe rijn order to be able to deliver cloth in greater quantities and more rapidly they increasingly took control of production.54 In the seventeenth century the drapers were relegated to retailers and middlemen and started to 55 l1 Cloth Hall up to 1657 work for the reders. They were expected to be present l2/s Cloth Hall / Serge Hall in the hall awaiting potential buyers on two days a l3 Cloth Hall week, the rest of the week they would have been busy overseeing the various detail workers.56 Sometimes, in addition to these activities, they also wove cloth.57 The Leiden divided into 8 areas broadcloth and serge drapers and serge and broadcloth weavers are mentioned in sufficient numbers in Centre-old the reference year 1674 to make it possible to deter- Centre-pieterswijk mine whether there was any clustering around the Cloth or Serge halls. In 1674 serge weavers were moder- North-new (Urban expansion 1611 and 1644) ately clustered in South, while there was a strong clus- North-old ter of serge drapers in East-old (fig. 6b). Interestingly, they were virtually absent in North-old and North-new. East-new (Urban expansion 1659) However, North-new had a strong clustering of broad- East-old cloth drapers and weavers in 1674 (fig. 6b). west It can reasonably be surmised that in the reference year 1674 the distance between house and hall was a South (inc. SOUTH-Rijnevest, urban expansion 1659) settlement factor in both the broadcloth and the serge 1544 Clothiers n=35 1557 Cloth buyers n=15

< 10%

10-32%

33-49%

50-66%

66-100% 1581 Reders n=17 1748 reders n=19

6a. The distribution of the specified occupational groups against the background of the city maps of Jacob van Deventer (c. 1560) and Christiaan Hagen (1670). The yellow dots mark the location of the halls, compare with fig. 5

6b. The distribution of the specified occupational groups against the background of the city map of Christiaan Hagen (1670). The yellow dots mark the location of the halls, compare with fig. 5

1674 Serge weavers n=25 1674 Serge drapers n=25

1674 Cloth weavers n=12 1674 Cloth drapers n=70 < 10%

10-32%

33-49%

50-66%

66-100% 2020 KNOB BULLETIN 1748 Cloth weavers n=369 1748 Cloth drapers n=19

trades. In the 1748 census, too, the broadcloth reders CENSUS OF 1748: A RICH SOURCE, BUT LACKING were still concentrated in North-new, close to the Cloth PRECISE OCCUPATIONAL DATA Hall (fig. 6a). They lived mainly on Oude Singel, though The 1748 Census makes it difficult to investigate the

• a few lived in North-old on Oude Vest. This is not as far house–hall settlement factor. The first problem with 3 away as it may seem, for it borders the same canal, this source is that there is not a single instance of the which bears a different name on either side. fabrikeur occupational designation, while it is known 47 ------but as but well The broad 61 62 ) exhibited no preference for reders ) in the old city centre where the Cloth Cloth the where centre city old the in ) wantsnijders The The hypothesis that in addition to ‘no trade with This study shows concentrations of seven textile In an exceptional combination of sources, the 1748 1748 the sources, of combination exceptional an In iers, iers, broadcloth drapers, serge drapers, broadcloth weavers, inserge various weavers) parts of theIn city. to adjacent or in clustering a identified it instance each the location of the relevant hall. On their own, each CONCLUSION geo drawn can be the that that is first conclusion The graphical clustering of cloth merchants changedtime. Whereasover in theAges Middle there in Leiden was a strong concentration of cloth buyers and cloth iers( Hall was then located, in Early Modern times wealthy textile merchants ( South the in concentrated they were 1581 area.thatIn and districts,East-new close to the Cloth Hall, which at thatthey time was located In on 1674 Steenschuur. Cloth the where North-new, in clustered strongly were Hall had been located since In 1640. other words, in the reference years the cloth merchants were to found be in the vicinity of the hall. suc hall,halla Posthumus’s trade’ no – a without out cinct characterization of the strictly regulated without cloth hall ‘no also was there – Leiden in industry ing a clustered occupational group’, is reinforced by the distribution of broadclothbroad the drapers, broadcloth1674 In weavweavers. serge and drapers serge ers, drapersboth cloth were stronglyconcen andweavers trated in ByNorth-new. contrast, there were no serge were they district;instead,this in weavers and drapers (East-old Hall Serge the to closer areas in concentrated andSouth). occupationsmanufacturers,buyers,cloth(cloth cloth TaxLandRegisthe of thatlinkedto datawere census ter for 1749. By wayof an example cloth drapers, broadcloth weavers and serge Iweavers looked atcen eighteenth thethe of middle theAround East-new. broadin turythis was area the city, the poorest of cloth drapers in the census lived, without exception, they house a inalways nearly Herengracht, chic the on owned. A few broadcloth weavers also lived Herengracht, on but in rented the housing. They were more frequently to be found in weavers’ cottages Waardegracht.sharpA distinction apparent becomes on the the of value rentalthe values: rental at looks one when dwellings of broadcloth drapers in this district wasthan guilders) that the of broad times (19 four higher cloth weavers (5 guilders), while the serge weavers’ dwellings had a considerably lower value average (2.50 guilders). rental as the large number of small weavers’ cottages and back-to-back dwellings, it also boasted substantial canal-side mansions on Herengracht.

------fabrikeur It is not so much 59 60 In the eighteenth century, the 58 and drapers had previouslywho but also done, In the Census, casethe imprecision of of the 1748 The The third problem with the 1748 Census is the The The second problem is that theCensus con 1748 that there must have been at least 175 in Leiden around Leiden in 175 least at been have must there that this time. mermarkt. The hierarchical differences among textile hierarchicalamong differences mermarkt. The situacantheillustratedoccupationsbe lookingat by tion in 1748/1749. related occupations close to the cloth hall, the crafts the hall, cloth the to close occupations related people would have lived in financial accordancemeans. While acloth merchant might with have their Singel, Vest/Oude LakenhalOude the toon close lived Lam on behind,area the in lived have would weaver a teenth century serge accounted for a mere two per cent cent per two mere a for accounted sergecentury teenth of Leiden’s textile production. 1749: LIVING IN A DESIRABLE AREA The sources from the were period studied 1498-1748 give may This location. and occupation to respectwith rise to though the Even location. incorrect of choice impression the in that role minor wealth a only played there is evidence a concentration of cloth of industry- markably enough not in North-new (fig. 6b). (fig. North-new in not enough markably of degree the determine to difficult it makes source the draperstheoccupationalin weaversandof clustering broadcloth trade. Research into the serge trade also six anddrapers twoserge only since unfeasible proves not is number low registered. That were weavers serge eigh the of middle the in because inexplicable entirely tance (or live–work distance) that tance short,is it although (or is not impossible that the workshops were built East-new because there in were already a lot of weavers living there and because this district had more unde thanNorth-new. land of plots veloped sketchy registration of drapers. In a thirdthere is indicationno theof trade they were active in. of cases Unlike in 1674, the nineteen drapers recorded were strongly broadcloth clustered in East-new and re less, it is stillless, it to the at possible look geographical dis tribution. As in 1674, the broadcloth weavers clustered in North-new, but were now in East-new as well. wasthisthat fact the to related be may clustering This where most of the 86 workshops (proto-factories) for located. were spinners and weavers tains a disproportionate number of broadcloth weav of ers: the86% weavers369 were identified as‘broad accounted broadcloth moment that at Yet weaver’. cloth for only ten per cent of weaver’ the ‘broadcloth city’s whether textile of production. question the raises This Nonethe weaver. for term generic a as used beingwas the house–hall distance as the workshop–house dis was the person who not only distributed work, as the reders increasingly concentrated the work of spinners and workshops. or factories in weavers

BULLETIN KNOB 2020 • 3 48 BULLETIN KNOB 2020 • 3 49

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(2019), Leiden (2019), Holland. Historisch Historisch Holland. III 198, (note 7), LTN , Vol. 28, Berlin/Boston 28, Vol. , Topographien des Alltags: Alltags: des Topographien Het winkellandschap van van winkellandschap Het 51 (2019) 3, 128-132. (2019) 51 (note 7), p. 81 (1415); p. 215 (1446), (1446), p. 215 p. (1415); 81 (note 7), and p. 16 (note 7), Posthumus 1939 I I

, 1550-2000, Hilversum 2013, 37, 37, Hilversum 2013, 1550-2000, , d.d. 1591. 1591. d.d. Bologna und Strassburg um 1400. Europa Europa 1400. um Strassburg und Bologna Mittelalter im 2018, 18-19. Posthumus (note 338 4), 1939 Posthumus (note 345. 4), 1939 Posthumus (note 469. 4), 1939 LTN LTN Posthumus (note 129. From 4), 1939 1 an annual average just of to1589 574 sixunder hundred lengths clothwereof produced. C. Arnaud,C. and 125. 115-116 19), Arnaud(note 2018 Leidenhousingmarket The was rentala market;halfover the population lived in dwellinga they own.did not In1606 theof almost 57% some dwellings5,000 wererental properties (statistics from DatasetSchoorsteengeld). 1606 By1748 theproportion rentalof dwellings had (Dataset risenVolkstellingto79% 1748). detaileda For analysis thisof principle inmedieval Bologna and Strasbourg, see 19). Arnaud(note 2018 on and 367; 366 4), (note Posthumus1939 fullers,see R.M.R. van Oosten, ‘Reading themedieval townscape Leiden:Fullof ers,fullers’ canals and tentergrounds’, MedievalistsLeiden blog Lesger,C. Amsterdam. Stedelijke structuur en win Posthumus (note 449. 4), 1939 Posthumus (note 451. 4), 1939 453. 4), (note Posthumus1939 Posthumus (note 453. 4), 1939 example: For Butchers,example, for appear ineach sampleyear an on average only of eighteentimes. InLeiden,too, tanners werelocated in thenorth-eastern part theSeeof city. Muurling, R.M.Rvan Oosten and S.T.D. ‘Smellybusiness. Declustering con en centratievan vieze stinkende en beroep inLeidenin en 1581’, tijdschrift University. kelbedrijf in de vroegmoderne en moderne tijd fig. 1.8. p. 247 (1447). (note 157. 4),

17 31 21 32 27 18 35 19 29 22 33 25 30 34 23 28 26 20 24

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- 2 (2007) 2, 2, (2007) 2 42 (2011) 3, 42 (2011) 2 (2012), 2 (2012), and London referred to earlier, there is still a need for for stillneed is a there earlier, referredto London and a bigger data set that would make topossible it study settlement patterns not just at district level, but also at street or plot level. the That, mapping in of combination a with with logical the aid walking of a route, computer distancethe program include to perhaps possible such it makeSyntax, would as Space to the hall. The systematic opening up of HistoricalLeiden historical Mapping group study the by sources distanttoo not the realisticinpossibility a thatmakes future. As such, I hope to be able to publish more on this topic. - - - - Economic HistoryEconomic 50); there are some 50); , London/New York 1997, London/New,1997, York c. Urban Bodies. Communal Communal Bodies. Urban ImaginaryCartographies. , Woodbridge 209. 2013, Stadsgeschiedenis , Ithaca 2000, 176-177. 69 (2016) 1, 104–130. 1, 69 (2016) Economic inequalityEconomicpre- in The Growth of the Medieval City. , property, records and theof role editionsusingpage numbers. thedigitized theversionof source (ed.), effect and Causes societies.industrial Florence 2020 369-388. 121-138, esp. 126; A.van Steensel,126; esp. ‘Mea 121-138, suringurban inequalities. Spatial patternsserviceof access insix teenth-centuryNigroin: G. Leiden’, localizedoccupations can beinferred Bisschops’ 12 in 11 and from figures 10, article.largest The group are the fishmongers ( instances 12 dyers.of Review Colson 112. (note 2016 15), las, From Late Antiquity to the Early Four allisBisschops, ‘It aboutlocation. T. GIS spaceinshaping late medieval urban life.case The Antwerp of around 1400’, Archaeologies Postclassical figure The of around hundred two Colson, ‘Commerce,J. clusters, and occupationalgeography Londonof 1400-c.c. 1550’, Evidencefrom the Journal Netherlands’, History Interdisciplinary of Bisschops, Leiden:T. for 333-369; ‘Ruimtelijkevermogensverhoudingen voor pleidooi Een inLeiden(1438-1561). perceelsgewijzeeen analyse van steden stedelijke en samenlevingen Lageinde Landen’, example, Schofield and For Vince,A. J. MedievalTowns. TheArchaeology of BritishTowns Theirin European Setting London/New 2003, York 144; M. Nicho Century teenth 193. Rawcliffe,C. HealthLatein Medieval English Towns Cities and 83-107. community:re-evaluationa theof Noordegraaf 1997 (note 5), 173. 173. 5), Noordegraaf(note 1997 Smail, D.L. Possessionand Identity Latein Medieval Marseille Anextensive historiography includedis in:LesgerC. van andLeeuwen, M.H.D. ‘ResidentialSegregation from the Six teenthtothe Nineteenth Century.

8 9 14 10 16 11 15 13 12

Post . De II Bronnen tot (6 volume (6 ) , Leiden 2003, Leiden2003, , LTN ), the p. for page for the p. ), Geschiedenis The New Draperies De geschiedenis van van geschiedenis De De geschiedenis van van geschiedenis De Leiden. De geschiedenis geschiedenis Leiden. De LTN 33 (1911), 1-95, q.v. 51-52. q.v. 1-95, 33 (1911), Nijverheidwindkracht.op , The Hague 225. 1939, s , The Hague 1908; Posthumus 1939 Posthumus 1939 Hague The , 1908; (Pasold Studies(Pasold inTextile History; , Hilversum 134-135. 2017, Although the Leiden tax assessment registers and de geschiedenisde van Leidschede textiel ( nijverheid1333-1795 Rijks Geschiedkundige Publicatiën; 14), citingWhen the Hague The 1910-1922. source editions ( individual occupation would offer insufficient grounds insufficient offer would occupation individual thathouse–halldistancethe concluding setwas a for Note andcomments. This article was written duringthe Corona lockdown and so thanksare also tothose due sent who booksme and scans. Inaddition totwo anonymous peer reviewersI would like to thank Jaap EvertAbrahamse and Arti Ponsen their for valuable feedback (Leiden) ment ment factor, because it was still possible to live in a areadesirable only a short walking distance from the hall. the two censuses are excellent sources that are inferior to not those used in the case studies of Antwerp tlement factor, but all seven occupations taken togethtaken occupations seven all but factor, tlement er in provide the period sufficient to indica 1498 1674 tions in that direction. This tendency to live close to thehall does not exclude the role of wealth as asettle de Leidsche lakenindustrie, deel 1, de zestiende tot (veertiende Middeleeuwen eeuw) Posthumus,(note N.W. 4); N.W. Posthumus, N.W. Posthumus 321-323. (note 258, 4), 1939, numberinthe source edition, the but easieris to search documentIt number. de Leidschede lakenindustrie deel Nieuwe tijd (zestiende tot achttiende lakenindustrieverwante De i en eeuw). ndustrieën L.Noordegraaf, New‘TheDraperies in theNorthern Netherlands, 1500-1800’, in: N.B. Harte (ed.), in the Low Countriesand England, 1300- 1800 184-189; Oxford 173-195, 10), 1997, Kaptein,H. 141; 3), (note Kaptein2017 DeHollandse textielnijverheid 1350-1600. continuïteitConjunctuur1350-1600 & Hilversum 187-188. 1998, referenced.is Inhis doesreferencehumus not the page N.W. Posthumus, N.W. H. Kaptein,H. 1500- Nederland Energietransitiesin 1900 N.W. Posthumus, zestiende-‘Een N.W. eeuwscheenquetenaar buitennerinde Bijdragen stadde genrondom Leiden’, enMededeelingen van het Historisch B.J. de Vrieseconomischde al.,et ‘Het B.J. leven:spectaculair succes diep en Genootschap verval’, in: R.C.J. van in:verval’,MaanenR.C.J. and S. (eds.), Groenveld 98. q.v. 85-107, van een Hollandse stad Hollandse een van 6 7 5 4 3 2 1

- - -

- -

Leidse

- , Am

, Hilversum,

pation entage c ccu er mentioning o 29% 38% 19% 34% 48% owners renters 30% 50% 27% 93% 70% Armoede en sociale span sociale en Armoede Gezetenburgers. Deelite eenin [Nederlands Historisch[Nederlands Data Ar

pation ith ccu NHDA ning. Sociaal-historische over ning. studies Leiden in deachttiende eeuw the article 28; makes no q.v. 17-44, 1985, numbers.of mention TjalsmaHeiko inforthis kindlysupplied (Oegstgeest) mation (April 2020). humus 1939 (note 4), 930-931 (1672), (1672), 930-931 4), (note 1939 humus figureswere no There (1748). 1098-1099 Productionfigures derived from Post ThisBaldeappliesto Jacob and Claesde Turck,both from Flanders, dealtwho in flannel serge.and This was verified in thedatabase Historischof Leidenin Kaart(www.historischleideninkaart.nl). M.R.Prak, 1700-1780 Leiden stad. Hollandse Peltjes, G.J. 226-228; sterdam1985, Lasten. Twee belastingkohiern uit 1674 ( text The Leiden1985. publication), chive] theof book accessibleis via the Oude Leiden/Janvanwebsite, section Hout 5.3. 711. 4), (note Posthumus1939 Posthumus (note 529-530. 4), 1939 Posthumus (note 810. 503, 4), 1939 Posthumus814. (note 811, 4), 1939 Posthumus (note 564-569. 4), 1939 Posthumus (note 1033. 4), 1939, workshops thatLeidenhad86 at time. East-newboasted cleara concentration workshopsNorth-new but 32 of had remarkablyfewthese of ‘proto-factories’: Tjalsma, H.D. four. just karakter‘Een Diederiks,Noordam and H.D. D.J. isering van Leiden in 1749’, in:H.A. iseringvan Leidenin1749’, Tjalsma(eds.), placeinthe hall. Selling fromwas home allowedastheas long stall rental was stillpaid. Only the sale smallof lengths clothwasof free exciseof tax. W o 867 552 54 646 1335 owners renters 254 1396 3258 2520 6803

51 57 52 59 55 53 58 56 54 60

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St , Hil (1972). guild for mber of entries Tijdschrift voor voor Tijdschrift . He thoughtthat He . possessed ‘few ‘few possessed Nu 3010 1441 290 1910 2757 owners 833 renters 2785 12277 2724 9757 (inside city walls) 14 (2018), 242-255, 242-255, (2018), 14 kleermakers . In the 1578 charter both Inthe . 1578 were not the only ones sell belasting wantsnijders wantsnijders Leiden HistoricalLeidenPopulation e c https://doi.org/10.17026/dans- r ou S 1498 Vermogensbelasting 1502 GedwongenLening 1508 PenningTiende1544 PenningTiende1557 PenningTiende1561 Volkstelling1581 KleinFamiliegeld 1674 Volkstelling1748 Vermogens 1436, 1519, and 1561 referexclusively to and 1561 1519, 1436, wantsnijders terms are used interchangeably. Tran scriptionsvanbyH. Endhoven, available the on OudLeidenwebsite Jan-under van-Hout-archiefonderzoek. q.v. 244. en rijk.vankohier en Het tiende penningde vanAmsterdam (1562)’, Geografie Historische

ing woollen cloth; the drapers and oth erswerepermitted assowell. todo And inthe mid-fifteenth century the of sale clothnecessarilydidnot have totake means’and that theircom number, edelijk verleden in veelvoud. Opstellen Opstellen veelvoud. in verleden edelijk laatmiddeleeuwsestadsgeschiedenisover in de Nederlanden voor Dick de Boer 147. q.v. versum 2011, 137-151, 165. 4), (note Posthumus1908 264-267. 4) (note Posthumus1908 Interestingly, Posthumus was rather dis missiveof medieval paredwith drapers, was small; see Post tax The regis 267. 4), (note 1908 humus terstelldifferent a story. The wantsnijders Posthumus 1939 (note 4), p. 642 states642 p. 4), (note Posthumus1939 example for threesome that in1602 thousandweavers wereactive inLeiden, Incidentally, unclearis it 3500. c. in1667 arrived he how theseat figuresp. (cf. 939). p. andnote5 table 642, 113, Posthumus (note 817. 4), 1939 charters The theof Zimmerman,H. grachtde van ‘Uit Alva. Textielrestenin:H. loep’, de onder Brand,Benders(eds.), and R.J. Nip Databank 1700-1850, Kohier 1748 DANS OudLeiden/Archiefonderzoek Janvan Hout. Dataset H.A. Volkstelling 1748. 1748: DiederiksUniversity) (Leiden and H.D. Tjalsma, 23u-3exj. Overviewsourcesof used.summary A theof datasets (transcriptions) used inis cluded inthe cluded bibliography.

G. van G. Tussenbroek, ‘Geografie van arm 47 49 45 50 48 46 44

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LTN el

(2016), DANS Toelichting LTN doi. (2019). DANS doi.org/10.17026/ https://doi. Historisch Leiden Leiden Historisch (note 7), p. 286 (note 7), , Leiden 1928, 8). This 8). Leiden1928, , doi.org/10.17026/ IV

Ranking the towns. the Ranking Tot cieraet ende aensien ende cieraet Tot DANS DANS (2016). . LTN DANS , p. 160 (17 September 1587); September 1587); (17 160 p. , (2016). III

-Accessdatabase tothe Werkgroep : 68.8 cm. (note 4) p. 178 (17 March 1589). (17 (note p. 178 4) HistorischeVereniging OudLeiden/ ArchiefonderzoekJanvan Hout. Dataset Volkstelling 1581. 1581: Hooymans,M. dans-zkd-sdwn,also accessible via Nieuw licht op de bevolkingsdichtheid Volkstelling steden: middeleeuwse van Leiden deel 1581, 1 & 2 doi.org/10.17026/dans-2ag-e6qc. doi.org/10.17026/dans-2ag-e6qc. Schoorsteengeld 1606: (chimney tax) Dataset 1606, R.M.Rvan Oosten, createdbyWerkgroep Schoorsteengeld, accessiblevia Historischleideninkaart. nl. Klein Familiegeld. Dataset 1674: Gerrit availableJanPeltjes madeit who asan MS HistorischLeideninKaart. Dedataset availableis at org/10.17026/dans-zfy-wu3y, andalso is org/10.17026/dans-zfy-wu3y, accessiblevia Historische Vereniging humus 1939 (note 5), 379. A LeidenA 379. 5), (note 1939 humus easy-datasetFedoraIdentifier, 67435, doi.org/10.17026/dans-zfa-srjh. Dataset Vermogensbelasting 1502. 1502: Bisschops, accessible via T. Historische VerenigingOudLeiden/Archiefonder Posthumus (note 469. 4), 1939 Regulationsdictated that Leidenbroad ‘el’ that longer clothbe no should 35 and no shorter than See 34 ‘el’. Post wasthe same length asan Amsterdam el Vermogensbelasting Dataset 1498: 1498. A.van Steensel, Historisch Leiden in 1498 kaart:vermogensbelasting zoek Jan van Hout. Dataset Gedwongen Lening 1508. 1508: Bisschops, accessible via T. Historische VerenigingOudLeiden/Archiefonder zoek Jan van Hout. vanKohier Tiende penning.de 1544: DatasetA.van Steensel, Historisch Leiden in Kaart: Kohier van de Tiende 1544 Penning LTN deser stede. Arent van ’s-Gravensande van Arent stede. deser architect eningenieur (ca.1610-1662), 133. Leiden2015, Posthumus, Decisiontobuild Lakenhal: I dans-22f-vpwv. vanKohier Tiendepenning.de 1557: DatasetA.van Steensel, Historisch Leiden in Kaart: Kohier van de tiende 1557 penning, G. Steenmeijer,G. (14 March 1631). org/10.17026/dans-zrk-9va3. vanKohier Tiendepenning.de 1561: DatasetNoordam/Oosten D.J. and R.M.R. van Oosten, in Kaart. Kohier van de tiende penning, 1561 (note 7), p. 353 (8 May 1639); Posthumus May1639); (8 353 p. 7), (note and Overvoorde 470 both4), (note 1939 thatmention the building was complet Overvoorde,(J.C. ined1640, Inventarisop van archievende van de hallen,1544-1886 see Steenmeijer Augustbe8 should 1641; 135. 36), (note 2005

37 39 41 36 38 42 40

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Archeologie no. 3, 2017, 36-45. no. 3, 2017, ) and others has conducted UG R ‘Leidsewevershuizen in seriebouw. Een materiëlegetuigenis van “projectontwik keling”eeuw’, Goudenin de Nederland in , The surmise that, in addition to ‘no occupation with oc textile-related seven of clusters reveals study This (shipowners) (shipowners) had moved on. In 1581 they were clus tration in North-new, the districttheLakenhad the where trationNorth-new, in in the of each Thus reference been located since 1640. years, the cloth merchants were to be vicinity found in the of the cloth hall. out a hall, no hall without an occupation’, a case of ‘nooccupationalprevailedgroup’ clustered hall a without cloth drapers, cloth distribution of the by reinforced is there 1674 In weavers. serge and drapers serge weavers, was a strong concentration of both cloth drapers and cloth weavers in North-new. There were, however, no serge drapers weavers or in North-new; they con were centrated in areas closer to the Saaihal (East-old and South). cupations in various districts. In each instance there was a cluster in or adjacenthall.atedtheirown, On individual occupations would to thelocation provide of the insufficient associ grounds forconcluding that the house–hall distanceing a business, was but taken together, the aseven determining occupa tions provide factor enough indications in that direction forin to close living of locattendency This 1674. to 1498 period the at role no played prosperitythat mean not does hall the all, because even within a limited walking from distancethe hall it was still possible to live in a desirable area. Dr. Dr. A. van Steensel ( subsidiary studies for theongoing project, Historisch Leiden in Kaart (Mapping Historical Leiden). tered in the South and East-new districts, once again close to the Lakenhal, which was then situated on the there was a strong concen Steenschuur canal. In 1674 Stof uit hetLeidse

------Utrecht 97. q.v. 91-99, 1991, verleden. Zeven eeuwen textielnijverheideeuwenZeven verleden. B.M.A. de Vries (eds.), B.M.A.Vriesde (eds.), On theOn type buildings of inthis part of thesee R.M.R.city, van Oosten al.,et

trained as an archeologist and n te s n o te O s . van R oo van s .M. The clustering of cloth merchants in Leiden changed Leiden in merchants cloth of clustering The For For this purpose the city was divided into eight dis torical centre where the Lakenhal was then situated, by situated, then wasLakenhal the where centre torical textilewealthymerchants the period Modern Early the over time. Whereas in the Middle Ages there were high were there Ages Middle the in Whereas time. over concentrations of cloth buyers and dealers in the his cupational group lived inbetweenmoderatemade thedistinction been hasthisa in district concerned. With clustering (33-49%), strong clustering (50-65%) and very strong clustering (over 66%). tricts. An occupational concentration is categorizedas is concentrationoccupationaltricts. An clustered when more than one third of a particular oc ment pattern of cloth merchants, drapers and weavers. and drapersmerchants, cloth of pattern ment In other words, was the distance between home and hall a determining factor in where people chose to live? cupational data in seven tax assessment registers and to investigate two censuses from the period 1498-1748 whether the location of the halls influenced the settle torian N.W. Posthumus summarizedstrictlyreguthis Posthumus N.W. torian lated craft system as ‘no occupation without a hall, no hall without anThis articleoccupation’. draws on oc ers went to the Lakenhal (Cloth Hall) and the weavers serge to the Saaihal (Serge Hall). The economic his duced. At theduced. pinnacle this of industry the city had no fewer than seven cloth halls. Merchants, drapers and weavers usually worked from home, appearing at the finished or semi-finished their have to timesset hallat weav products broadcloth inspected Thus quality. for Leiden Leiden was once the foremost textile city in Europe. Under ‘de nieuwe draperie’ (the new cloth industry, a wide varietyfrom 1580), of woollen textiles were pro roo THE SETTLEMENT PATTERN OF CLOTH MERCHANTS, DRAPERSTHE SETTLEMENT OF CLOTH PATTERN OF THE IN LEIDEN CITY 1498-1748 TEXTILE WEAVERS AND historian. She teaches urban archeology at the Faculty the at archeologyurban teaches historian.She of Archeology, Leiden University, and together with Dr. R

H.D. Tjalsma, H.D. ‘Leidse Textielarbeiders in in:J.K.S.achttiende Moes de and eeuw’, for the serge trade for the year 1674, so I so the for serge trade the for year 1674, haveoptedthe for nearest year which for figures. are there