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Tartan As a Popular Commodity, C.1770-1830. Scottish Historical Review, 95(2), Pp
Tuckett, S. (2016) Reassessing the romance: tartan as a popular commodity, c.1770-1830. Scottish Historical Review, 95(2), pp. 182-202. (doi:10.3366/shr.2016.0295) This is the author’s final accepted version. There may be differences between this version and the published version. You are advised to consult the publisher’s version if you wish to cite from it. http://eprints.gla.ac.uk/112412/ Deposited on: 22 September 2016 Enlighten – Research publications by members of the University of Glasgow http://eprints.gla.ac.uk SALLY TUCKETT Reassessing the Romance: Tartan as a Popular Commodity, c.1770-1830 ABSTRACT Through examining the surviving records of tartan manufacturers, William Wilson & Son of Bannockburn, this article looks at the production and use of tartan in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. While it does not deny the importance of the various meanings and interpretations attached to tartan since the mid-eighteenth century, this article contends that more practical reasons for tartan’s popularity—primarily its functional and aesthetic qualities—merit greater attention. Along with evidence from contemporary newspapers and fashion manuals, this article focuses on evidence from the production and popular consumption of tartan at the turn of the nineteenth century, including its incorporation into fashionable dress and its use beyond the social elite. This article seeks to demonstrate the contemporary understanding of tartan as an attractive and useful commodity. Since the mid-eighteenth century tartan has been subjected to many varied and often confusing interpretations: it has been used as a symbol of loyalty and rebellion, as representing a fading Highland culture and heritage, as a visual reminder of the might of the British Empire, as a marker of social status, and even as a means of highlighting racial difference. -
Cloth Without Weaving: Beaten Barkcloth of the Pacific Islands, November 1, 2000-February 18, 2001
Cloth Without Weaving: Beaten Barkcloth of the Pacific Islands, November 1, 2000-February 18, 2001 Unlike most textiles, which are made of interworked yarns, beaten barkcloth is made of strips of the inner bark of trees such as the paper mulberry, breadfruit, or fig, pounded together into a smooth and supple fabric. It is an ancient craft, practiced in southern China and mainland Southeast Asia over 5,000 years ago. From there, the skill spread to eastern Indonesia and the Pacific Islands. While the technique is also known in South America and Africa, it is most closely associated with the islands of Polynesia. In Polynesia, the making of beaten barkcloth, or tapa, as it is commonly known, is primarily women's work. The technique is essentially the same throughout the Pacific Islands, with many local variations. Bark is stripped from the tree, and the inner bark separated from the outer. The inner bark is then pounded with wooden beaters to spread the fibers into a thin sheet. Large pieces of tapa can be made by overlapping and pounding together several smaller sheets. Women decorate the cloth in many ways, and techniques are often combined. Mallets carved or inlaid with metal or shell designs may impart a subtle texture to the surface. Color may be applied with stamps, stencils, freehand painting, or by rubbing dye into the tapa over a patterned board. Glazes may be brushed onto the finished cloth. Each tapa-producing culture has its own vocabulary of recognized decorative motifs. Many pattern names are drawn from the natural world, and the motifs appear as highly stylized images of local flora and fauna or simple geometric shapes. -
URBN Global Apparel Testing/Labeling Manual
URBN INC. GLOBAL Fabric and Apparel Testing Manual Global URBN Fabric and Apparel Testing Manual 4.19.2019.docx IMPORTANT – PLEASE READ, PRINT AND SEND BACK A SIGNED COPY TO: MILLS – [email protected] VENDORS – [email protected] Or mail to: URBN |Building 543 | 5000 South Broad Street | Philadelphia | PA19112 | USA <ENTER> Supplier or /Mill Company Name <ENTER> Contact Person Name: I represent and agree that I read and fully understand the processes and regulations outlined in this document as required by URBN. On behalf of the <ENTER supplier or mill company name>, I agree that the Supplier/Mill will follow these processes and regulations, and that the Supplier/Mill will be responsible for any damages, including lost sales, related to the Supplier/Mill’s failure to comply with any of these requirements. Signed: Date: 2 Global URBN Fabric and Apparel Testing Manual 4.19.2019.docx Contents Section Subject Section 1 Care Symbols Section 2 Labelling Section 3 Fabric Manual and Testing Requirements Section 4 Garment Testing Requirements and Assessment Criteria Section 5 Regulatory Requirements Section 6 China Importing Requirements APPENDIX A CARE INSTRUCTIONS AND SYMBOLS APPENDIX B SGS GB APPROVED LABS 3 Global URBN Fabric and Apparel Testing Manual 4.19.2019.docx Section 1 Care Symbols 4 Global URBN Fabric and Apparel Testing Manual 4.19.2019.docx Care Symbols GB/T 8685 Standard All 5 symbols must display on the care label and in the below order. Please refer to the Appendix for a comprehensive list of all approved symbols. 5 Global URBN Fabric and Apparel Testing Manual 4.19.2019.docx Section 2 Labelling 6 Global URBN Fabric and Apparel Testing Manual 4.19.2019.docx Labelling Care Labels: • Care label wording and translations are available on the Vendor Website. -
160 Argyle St. S. Caledonia
LIBRARY AND ARCHIVES CANADA 1\fJ .OR N } Bib iotheq ie et Archives Canada t I 1,31181151,011,612111,1 3 38 54056 8 3 1111, ir- 11 r... - and Archives Canada , l Library `, Collection I II Newspaper St. y. I 395 Wellington ..y ON4 Ottawa, ON KIA i . Reg. No. 10963 North America's 4 Pub. No. 40016309 194 Celebrating 15 years Okarahshona kenh Onkwehonwene, Six Nations of the Grand Wednesday July 29, 2009 AFN National Chief Shawn. Atleo Atleo takes helm when Bellegarde concedes .^ a a, By Lynda Powless vri t. Editor +. Y... CALGARY- Shawn Atleo is the new national chief of the As- -444to,yt.3 sembly of First Nations (AFN) after a 22 hour marathon vote N .4* 'ISi . the crowd on a rollercoaster ride all night. that sent .r After the nerve racking election unity, as he addressed a crowd of night Atleo has already made his onlookers and dancers in colourful, t first appearance as head of feathered costumes. Canada's national First Nations or- "It's time to come together across y ganization. all of our territories and support His first stop was to the home one another - treaty and non - province of the man he defeated. treaty," Atleo said to loud applause. On Sunday, Atleo, was the guest of Atleo, who is from the Ahousaht honour at a pow wow on the Carry First Nation on Vancouver Island, ' the Kettle First Nation, which is wore a traditional pointed cedar hat T /7 about 85 kilometres east of Regina. and shawl, which were passed . -
Kilts & Tartan
Kilts & Tartan Made Easy An expert insider’s frank views and simple tips Dr Nicholas J. Fiddes Founder, Scotweb Governor, Why YOU should wear a kilt, & what kind of kilt to get How to source true quality & avoid the swindlers Find your own tartans & get the best materials Know the outfit for any event & understand accessories This e-book is my gift to you. Please copy & send it to friends! But it was a lot of work, so no plagiarism please. Note my copyright terms below. Version 2.1 – 7 November 2006 This document is copyright Dr Nicholas J. Fiddes (c) 2006. It may be freely copied and circulated only in its entirety and in its original digital format. Individual copies may be printed for personal use only. Internet links should reference the original hosting address, and not host it locally - see back page. It may not otherwise be shared, quoted or reproduced without written permission of the author. Use of any part in any other format without written permission will constitute acceptance of a legal contract for paid licensing of the entire document, at a charge of £20 UK per copy in resultant circulation, including all consequent third party copies. This will be governed by the laws of Scotland. Kilts & Tartan - Made Easy www.clan.com/kiltsandtartan (c) See copyright notice at front Page 1 Why Wear a Kilt? 4 Celebrating Celtic Heritage.................................................................................................. 4 Dressing for Special Occasions.......................................................................................... -
Chapman Wrttes His Own Epitaph in Closing Hours
■f- ■- . WBfS PRESS RUN) v 4VBHAGB DAILY CIRCULATIOI*' Ot* PHB EVENING HERALD for tjiie month of March, IWBO, 4,736 VOL. XtIV „ NO. .^r HEAVY COATS WILL BE JOHN T. KING IN ORDER FOR EASTER BANDITS IRON Washington, April 2.—^Heavy coats will be needed along the 10 IN R. I. BANK, ; INUCTED FOR Atlantic seaboard for the annual Easter parade Sunday. Fair but cold was the weather bureau's prediction today for GET ALL CASH W N G INCOME the eastern part of the counbry. It will rain tomorrow but the precipitation probably will stop by night. Raid Trust Co. at Phenix, Huge Profits Disclosed/by Negni, Near Deadi, Assert! <$>------------- Handcuff Clerks, Custom ^ federal Probe Into Deal in New-York, April 2.— ^Eighty He Beard Employer Fire .percent o f, the crime in New TIES BOY TO POST; ers, Drive Off wiA $15, York .. is committed by; persons German-own^ Metals Co. FWiraUURYIN under 22 years of age, acCQrd*>^ Fatal Shot— Appeals to 000 to $20,000. ing tb'the annuarreport'of tl^ Stock. PUNISHED IN COURT Children’s* Aid society. B A T H m (P Z •»- Supreme Court Judges Phenlx, R. I., April 2.— The Fal^-lawyers* Last C a4 New York, April 2.— John T. Mrs. Urbanad on Probadon mdht daring bank robbery In the King, former Republican national history of Rhode Island was staged Play Producer Indicteff After CQjnmltteemani of Connecticut, was here today when four masked ban New Trial Petition, to Ifc indicted today for perjury by the for Harsb Treatment of dits entered the banking rpoms of federal grand jury that has been in the Phenlx Trust company and Jury Probe of Famous ‘ CDIDEin Played Tomorrow. -
Fashion Arts. Curriculum RP-54. INSTITUTION Ontario Dept
DOCUMENT RESUME ED 048 223 SP 007 137 TITLE Fashion Arts. Curriculum RP-54. INSTITUTION Ontario Dept. of Education, Toronto. PUB LATE 67 NOTE 34p. EDRS PRICE EDRS Price MF-$0.65 HC-$3.29 DESCRIPTORS Clothing Instruction, *Curriculum Guides, Distributive Education, *Grade 11, *Grade 12, *Hcme Economics, Interior Design, *Marketing, Merchandising, Textiles Instruction AESTRACT GRADES OR AGES: Grades 11 and 12. SUBJECT MATTER: Fashicn arts and marketing. ORGANIZATION AND PHkSTCAL APPEARANCE: The guide is divided into two main sections, one for fashion arts and one for marketing, each of which is further subdivided into sections fcr grade 11 and grade 12. Each of these subdivisions contains from three to six subject units. The guide is cffset printed and staple-todnd with a paper cover. Oi:IJECTIVE3 AND ACTIVITIES' Each unit contains a short list of objectives, a suggested time allotment, and a list of topics to he covered. There is only occasional mention of activities which can he used in studying these topics. INSTRUCTIONAL MATERIALS: Each unit contains lists of books which relate either to the unit as a whole or to subtopics within the unit. In addition, appendixes contain a detailed list of equipment for the fashion arts course and a two-page billiography. STUDENT A. ,'SSMENT:No provision. (RT) U $ DEPARTMENT OF hEALTH EOUCATION & WELFARE OFFICE OF THIS DOCUMENTEOUCATION HAS BEEN REPRO DUCED EXACT' VAS RECEIVED THE PERSON OR FROM INAnNO IT POINTSORGANIZATION ()RIG IONS STATED OF VIEW OR DO NUT OPIN REPRESENT OFFICIAL NECESSARILY CATION -
The Journal of Dr. Tiberius Hess Librarian’S Introduction
The Journal of Dr. Tiberius Hess Librarian’s Introduction A few months ago, a longtime Hamilton resident donated a battered cloth-bound journal she discovered during a renovation. It’s a vivid story written by Dr. Tiberius Hess, a doctor who lived and practised in Hamilton during the Victorian era. In it, Hess claims to have invented a time machine, powered by electricity and steam, and governed by mysterious “nautilus gears”. He wrote of using that machine, called a “Chronocycle”, to travel to present-day Hamilton. The enigmatic Hess wrote of things far beyond the period in which he lived. Fascinating. His journal is divided into two parts. The primary section contains first-person entries about his experiences in Hamilton from 1854 - 1860, with a brief sojourn to 2019. The second section is made up of six “clue sets”. Hess claims these clues point to the location of a set of nautilus gears that he hid somewhere in Hamilton during his brief time-travel here. You can delve into those clues, and try to locate his nautilus gears, elsewhere on this website. The journal entries offer a fascinating glimpse into life in Victorian Hamilton. As befits a time traveller, Hess’s entries jump about in time, capturing his experience more as a rousing tale than a strict chronological account. They mention real historical figures such as: Isaac Buchanan, Sir Allan Napier McNab, James McFarlane and others. Hess lived through actual historic events such as the cholera outbreak of 1854, the Desjardins Canal rail disaster of 1857 and the visit to Hamilton by the Prince of Wales in 1860. -
Lager Beer and Times I Was Obliged to Go Without Room
'X - . ar (Inn V .11 1 if u n n Hi' 'J IP 4 Ml r E r Katabllihed Jalr a, 1853. VOL. XIX., XO. nOXOL,UL,U, IIAWAIIAX ISL.AXDS, WEDXESDAY. MAKCH 11, IS94.; PRICE: 5 CENTS. Xtasincss vTarite. Business CarDs. time opened wide to send nut a llash THE LIFE OF PESTALOZZi, of lightning, at another were half closed as if engaged ou what was go- ing on within; his features now ex- HAWAIIAN M. E. Grossman, D.D.tf. HAWAIIAN HARDWARE CO., pressing a profound sadness, and now The New Jewelry Store again the most peaceful happiness; HARDWARE, One of the Greatest Teachers of his speech either slow or nurried. 503 Fort Street, either oft and melodious or bursting Abstract and Title Co. Cutlery and Glassware the World. forth like thunder; imagine the man ARK PREPARED TO MANUFACTURE ANY 307 Fort Street. and you have him whom we used to THING IN THEIR LINK. call our Father Pestalozzi. Such as 1 3575-l- y have sketched him for you wo loved N"0. MERCHANT 8T. DENTIST, Souvenir Spoons ! him; we all loved him, for H. DAVIDSON, HARD STRUGGLE FOR RECOGNITION. he loved us all; we loved him a specialty. Also, on hand & fine stock J. 93 so warmly that when some time HONOLULU, U. I. EOTXL STRUT of imported passed without our seeing him we were quite troubled about it, and Attorney ind Ccunsellor-at-La- ir. when he again appeared we could not SST'OmcM Hotras 9 a. ac. to 4 p. x. JEWELEY. A 1'aper by l'rofemor II. -
The “African Print” Hoax: Machine Produced Textiles Jeopardize African Print Authenticity
The “African Print” Hoax: Machine Produced Textiles Jeopardize African Print Authenticity by Tunde M. Akinwumi Department of Home Science University of Agriculture, Abeokuta, Nigeria Abstract The paper investigated the nature of machine-produced fabric commercially termed African prints by focusing on a select sample of these prints. It established that the general design characteristics of this print are an amalgam of mainly Javanese, Indian, Chinese, Arab and European artistic tradition. In view of this, it proposed that the prints should reflect certain aspects of Africanness (Africanity) in their design characteristics. It also explores the desirability and choice of certain design characteristics discovered in a wide range of African textile traditions from Africa south of the Sahara and their application with possible design concepts which could be generated from Macquet’s (1992) analysis of Africanity. This thus provides a model and suggestion for new African prints which might be found acceptable for use in Africa and use as a veritable export product from Africa in the future. In the commercial parlance, African print is a general term employed by the European textile firms in Africa to identify fabrics which are machine-printed using wax resins and dyes in order to achieve batik effect on both sides of the cloth, and a term for those imitating or achieving a resemblance of the wax type effects. They bear names such as abada, Ankara, Real English Wax, Veritable Java Print, Guaranteed Dutch Java Hollandis, Uniwax, ukpo and chitenge. Using the term ‘African Print’ for all the brand names mentioned above is only acceptable to its producers and marketers, but to a critical mind, the term is a misnomer and therefore suspicious because its origin and most of its design characteristics are not African. -
Sheila Never Go As Fast As You Would Wish!) Don’T Worry – We Will Let You Know When You Can Open That Present!
Bear in Mind An electronic newsletter from Bear Threads Ltd. Volume 4 – Issue 1 January 2012 From The Editor – I hope you will enjoy this newsletter. In it there is lots of information that I think you will find helpful for the 2012! coming months and beyond. And I am looking forward to showing you all that is new at the Creative Sewing Market in Birmingham. Remember the dates are January 15‐16. Seems only yesterday we were turning the calendar to the new millennium of 2000! Indeed this is a new year and an Till Birmingham, Happy Stitching – exciting one as well, for Bear Threads. * We will soon be inaugurating a new website (things Sheila never go as fast as you would wish!) Don’t worry – we will let you know when you can open that present! *I will begin teaching again with several informative as well as fun lectures and projects. There are classes for beginner to advanced, as well as shop owners, too. BIRMINGHAM CREATIVE SEWING Please call for more information. MARKET *We have many new fabrics to entice your spring sewing. Sunday and Monday Honestly there are too many new fabrics to list here, but January 15 and 16, 2012 for teasers, we have brought back the beautiful Ecru in the Marriot Hotel – Hwy. 280 just south of I‐459 Bearissima. AND we have brought back the TRUE LAWN, in white, pink and blue. *We have a new price list that is easier to read and it lists Be sure to see Bear Threads, Ltd. first. -
Fibers and Fabrics; TX335 .A1 U6 NO
KitlQRr Bureau of Standards Reference book' no' to ygjgtv |Oi Admin. Bldg. taken from the library, gmp STATES Ite.WMENT OF COMMERCE PUBLICATION A11ID3 Db3SbD All103063560 Blandford, Josephlne/FIbers and fabrics; TX335 .A1 U6 NO. 1, 1970 C.1 NBS-PUB-R 1 ^TES ‘‘•‘‘'/I'ti'i'.1'1' 1: BBB8 MB A Consumer’s Guide from the Mational Bureau of Standards NBS CIS 1 IIIIShSs Fibers and Fabrics by Josephine M. Blandford and Lois M. Gurel INFORMATION ABOUT NATURAL AND MAN-MADE FIBERS AND FABRICS TO MEET YOUR PARTICULAR NEEDS. NBS CONSUMER INFORMATION SERIES 1 Editor: James E. Payne Issued November 1970 U.S. DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE Maurice H. Stans, Secretary Rocco C. Siciliano, Under Secretary Myron Tribus, Assistant Secretary for Science and Technology NATIONAL BUREAU OF STANDARDS A Consumer’s Lewis M. Branscomb, Director GUIDE FROM THE) NATIONAL BUREAU OF STANDARDS For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, U.S. DEPARTMENT Washington, D.C. 20402. OF COMMERCE Price 65 cents. NATIONAL BUREAU OF STANDARDS APR 1 0 1971 FOREWORD Technology is changing not only the products you buy, but the marketplace as well. Unfortunately, this is not an unmixed blessing. Products are constantly being improved, but designs are complicated, quality is vari¬ able, and good advice is hard to get. Modern stores and merchandising bring you a wide variety of products; but the large number of choices and the lack of dependable infor¬ mation often make shopping a confusing and frustrating experience. A generation ago the merchant was likely to be a friend of the family.