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Women's Clothing in the 18Th Century
National Park Service Park News U.S. Department of the Interior Pickled Fish and Salted Provisions A Peek Inside Mrs. Derby’s Clothes Press: Women’s Clothing in the 18th Century In the parlor of the Derby House is a por- trait of Elizabeth Crowninshield Derby, wearing her finest apparel. But what exactly is she wearing? And what else would she wear? This edition of Pickled Fish focuses on women’s clothing in the years between 1760 and 1780, when the Derby Family were living in the “little brick house” on Derby Street. Like today, women in the 18th century dressed up or down depending on their social status or the work they were doing. Like today, women dressed up or down depending on the situation, and also like today, the shape of most garments was common to upper and lower classes, but differentiated by expense of fabric, quality of workmanship, and how well the garment fit. Number of garments was also determined by a woman’s class and income level; and as we shall see, recent scholarship has caused us to revise the number of garments owned by women of the upper classes in Essex County. Unfortunately, the portrait and two items of clothing are all that remain of Elizabeth’s wardrobe. Few family receipts have survived, and even the de- tailed inventory of Elias Hasket Derby’s estate in 1799 does not include any cloth- ing, male or female. However, because Pastel portrait of Elizabeth Crowninshield Derby, c. 1780, by Benjamin Blythe. She seems to be many other articles (continued on page 8) wearing a loose robe over her gown in imitation of fashionable portraits. -
The “African Print” Hoax: Machine Produced Textiles Jeopardize African Print Authenticity
The “African Print” Hoax: Machine Produced Textiles Jeopardize African Print Authenticity by Tunde M. Akinwumi Department of Home Science University of Agriculture, Abeokuta, Nigeria Abstract The paper investigated the nature of machine-produced fabric commercially termed African prints by focusing on a select sample of these prints. It established that the general design characteristics of this print are an amalgam of mainly Javanese, Indian, Chinese, Arab and European artistic tradition. In view of this, it proposed that the prints should reflect certain aspects of Africanness (Africanity) in their design characteristics. It also explores the desirability and choice of certain design characteristics discovered in a wide range of African textile traditions from Africa south of the Sahara and their application with possible design concepts which could be generated from Macquet’s (1992) analysis of Africanity. This thus provides a model and suggestion for new African prints which might be found acceptable for use in Africa and use as a veritable export product from Africa in the future. In the commercial parlance, African print is a general term employed by the European textile firms in Africa to identify fabrics which are machine-printed using wax resins and dyes in order to achieve batik effect on both sides of the cloth, and a term for those imitating or achieving a resemblance of the wax type effects. They bear names such as abada, Ankara, Real English Wax, Veritable Java Print, Guaranteed Dutch Java Hollandis, Uniwax, ukpo and chitenge. Using the term ‘African Print’ for all the brand names mentioned above is only acceptable to its producers and marketers, but to a critical mind, the term is a misnomer and therefore suspicious because its origin and most of its design characteristics are not African. -
Sheila Never Go As Fast As You Would Wish!) Don’T Worry – We Will Let You Know When You Can Open That Present!
Bear in Mind An electronic newsletter from Bear Threads Ltd. Volume 4 – Issue 1 January 2012 From The Editor – I hope you will enjoy this newsletter. In it there is lots of information that I think you will find helpful for the 2012! coming months and beyond. And I am looking forward to showing you all that is new at the Creative Sewing Market in Birmingham. Remember the dates are January 15‐16. Seems only yesterday we were turning the calendar to the new millennium of 2000! Indeed this is a new year and an Till Birmingham, Happy Stitching – exciting one as well, for Bear Threads. * We will soon be inaugurating a new website (things Sheila never go as fast as you would wish!) Don’t worry – we will let you know when you can open that present! *I will begin teaching again with several informative as well as fun lectures and projects. There are classes for beginner to advanced, as well as shop owners, too. BIRMINGHAM CREATIVE SEWING Please call for more information. MARKET *We have many new fabrics to entice your spring sewing. Sunday and Monday Honestly there are too many new fabrics to list here, but January 15 and 16, 2012 for teasers, we have brought back the beautiful Ecru in the Marriot Hotel – Hwy. 280 just south of I‐459 Bearissima. AND we have brought back the TRUE LAWN, in white, pink and blue. *We have a new price list that is easier to read and it lists Be sure to see Bear Threads, Ltd. first. -
How Is Chintz Made and Where Does It Originate? Where Is It Commonly
How is chintz 1. It is a closely woven, lustrous, plain weave cotton fabric, printed or made and where plain, that has been glazed with starch or glue and then friction does it originate? calendered. Much used for curtains and upholstery. Where is it 2. It was originally a painted or stained calico produced in India and commonly used? popular for bed covers, quilts and draperies, popular in Europe in 17th century and 18th century, where it was imported and later produced. Europeans at first produced reproductions of Indian designs, and later added original patterns. 3. A well-known make was toile de Jouy, which was manufactured in Jouy, France between 1700 and 1843. Today it usually consists of bright patterns printed on a light background. Which weave is used 1. It is a rich fabric using the Jacquard weave where an all over to produce Brocade, interwoven design usually floral patterns. and where is it used? 2. It is used for upholstery and other interior products and often incorporates gold, silver or other metallic yarns. 3. It is also used in Chinese garments. 4. Brocade is typically woven on a draw loom. It is a supplementary weft technique, that is, the ornamental brocading is produced by a supplementary, non-structural, weft in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads together. The purpose of this is to give the appearance that the weave actually was embroidered on. How are chenille yarns 1. The weft yarn is manufactured by placing short lengths of yarn, called made and how are they the "pile", between two "core yarns" and then twisting the yarn used? together. -
Hunting Shirts and Silk Stockings: Clothing Early Cincinnati
Fall 1987 Clothing Early Cincinnati Hunting Shirts and Silk Stockings: Clothing Early Cincinnati Carolyn R. Shine play function is the more important of the two. Shakespeare, that fount of familiar quotations and universal truths, gave Polonius these words of advice for Laertes: Among the prime movers that have shaped Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy, But not expressed infancy; history, clothing should be counted as one of the most potent, rich not gaudy; For the apparel oft proclaims the man.1 although its significance to the endless ebb and flow of armed conflict tends to be obscured by the frivolities of Laertes was about to depart for the French fashion. The wool trade, for example, had roughly the same capital where, then as now, clothing was a conspicuous economic and political significance for the Late Middle indicator of social standing. It was also of enormous econo- Ages that the oil trade has today; and, closer to home, it was mic significance, giving employment to farmers, shepherds, the fur trade that opened up North America and helped weavers, spinsters, embroiderers, lace makers, tailors, button crack China's centuries long isolation. And think of the Silk makers, hosiers, hatters, merchants, sailors, and a host of others. Road. Across the Atlantic and nearly two hundred If, in general, not quite so valuable per pound years later, apparel still proclaimed the man. Although post- as gold, clothing like gold serves as a billboard on which to Revolution America was nominally a classless society, the display the image of self the individual wants to present to social identifier principle still manifested itself in the quality the world. -
Fabric Dictionary
FABRIC DICTIONARY A Absorbency- The ability of a fabric to take in moisture. Acetate- A manufactured fiber formed by compound of cellulose, refined from cotton linters and/or wood pulp, and acedic acid that has been extruded through a spinneret and then hardened. Acrylic- A manufactured fiber, its major properties include a soft, wool-like hand, machine washable and dryable and excellent color retention. Alpaca- A natural hair fiber obtained from the Alpaca sheep, a domesticated member of the llama family. Angora- The hair of the Angora goat. Also known as Angora mohair. Angora may also apply to the fur of the Angora rabbit. Antique Satin-A reversible satin-weave fabric with satin floats on the technical face and surface slubs on the technical back created by using slub-filling yarns. It is usually used with the technical back as the right side for drapery fabrics and often made of a blend of fibers. Argyle- A pattern designed with different color diamond shapes knit into a fabric. B Bamboo Fabric- Bamboo fabric is a natural textile made from the pulp of the bamboo grass. Bamboo fabric has been growing in popularity because it has many unique properties and is more sustainable than most textile fibers. Bamboo fabric is light and strong, has excellent wicking properties, and is to some extent antibacterial. Barkcloth- A textured woven, usually printed cotton fabric that was popular in the 30s-40s and 50s as an interiors fabric. The prints were often large vines, leaves and florals. Basket Weave- A distinctive technique of weaving that creates a fabric resembling basket work with interwoven fibers. -
British Regulars
British Regulars The appearance of General Burgoyne's Army underwent a tremedous overhaul prior to their arrival at Ticonderoga in the summer of 1777. Their clothing was alterred due to events of the previous fall. In the fall of 1776 Captain John Paul Jones, patrolling the waters off the coast of Nova Scotia, captured the British merchant ship Mellish, destined for Canada and carrying much of the British Army's 1777 clothing supply. The capture of the Mellish would have profound effects on the appearance of the British Army in the following year. By the time General John Burgoyne assumed command of the army in early 1777, the regiments of his army were wearing clothing that was over a year old and had already seen an active season of campaigning. With no new clothing arriving for the troops by February 1777, steps were taken to modify and repair clothing for the upcoming campaign season. A General Order from Major General Phillips that appears in multiple orderly books at the beginning of February 1777 states: The Clothing for the several Regiments not being arriv'd, His Excellency the Commander in Chief allows the Commanding Officers of the Battalions to accommodate the present Clothing as shall be most convenient for the Men, and it is to be repaired so as to serve the Campaign until the new Clothing Arrives A subsequent order, noted in the orderly book of The Royal Regiment of Artillery in early March indicates further attempts at properly equipping the soldiers of the army for the upcoming campaign: 7th March, ...The Commissary to deliver to the Qr. -
Textiles and Clothing the Macmillan Company
Historic, Archive Document Do not assume content reflects current scientific knowledge, policies, or practices. LIBRARY OF THE UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE C/^ss --SOA Book M l X TEXTILES AND CLOTHING THE MACMILLAN COMPANY NEW YORK • BOSTON • CHICAGO • DALLAS ATLANTA • SAN FRANCISCO MACMILLAN & CO., Limited LONDON • BOMBAY • CALCUTTA MELBOURNE THE MACMILLAN CO. OF CANADA, Ltd. TORONTO TEXTILES AXD CLOTHIXG BY ELLEX BEERS >McGO WAX. B.S. IXSTEUCTOR IX HOUSEHOLD ARTS TEACHERS COLLEGE. COLUMBIA U>aVERSITY AXD CHARLOTTE A. WAITE. M.A. HEAD OF DEPARTMENT OF DOMESTIC ART JULIA RICHMAX HIGH SCHOOL, KEW YORK CITY THE MACMILLAX COMPAXY 1919 All righU, reserved Copyright, 1919, By the MACMILLAN company. Set up and electrotyped. Published February, 1919. J. S. Gushing Co. — Berwick & Smith Co. Norwood, Mass., U.S.A. ; 155688 PREFACE This book has been written primarily to meet a need arising from the introduction of the study of textiles into the curriculum of the high school. The aim has been, there- fore, to present the subject matter in a form sufficiently simple and interesting to be grasped readily by the high school student, without sacrificing essential facts. It has not seemed desirable to explain in detail the mechanism of the various machines used in modern textile industries, but rather to show the student that the fundamental principles of textile manufacture found in the simple machines of primitive times are unchanged in the highl}^ developed and complicated machinerj^ of to-day. Minor emphasis has been given to certain necessarily technical paragraphs by printing these in type of a smaller size than that used for the body of the text. -
TEXTILES What Every Homemaker Should Know by Marion Weller, Division of Home Economics
IDqr Jtutnrr.atty nf fltuursnta AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION DIVISION Special Bulletin No. 15 University Farm, St. Paul October 1917 PublisJ.ed hy the University of Minnesota, College of Agriculture, Extension Division, A. D. Wilson, Director, and distributed in furtherance of the purposes of the coOperative agri cultural extension work provided for in the Act of Congress of May 8, 1914. TEXTILES What Every Homemaker Should Know By Marion Weller, Division of Home Economics INTRODUCTION The women of this country are realizing that an intelligent expenditure of the family income is necessary to efficient homemaking. An examination of household budgets, compil ed by investigators-the budgets of individuals and families living on the lowest incomes adequate for physical efficiency-reveals the fact that from 15 to 25 per cent of the income is spent for clothing and home furnishings. It is, moreover, a fact that women are increasingly the I direct retail purchasers; 90 per cent of the money spent for home maintenance , in this country is spent by women. The homemaker who is the purchaser of the clothing and household fabrics should, therefore, know how to buy eco I I nomically, and it is the purpose of this bulletin to give to her such in formation concerning textile fabrics as may be helpful in planning and buying for the household. " There was a time when the production of textiles or woven fabrics for the home was entirely within the home. Women were the creators of these utili ties and ' controlled the quality of the product. They knew when a piece of cloth was all wool and what grade of wool went into it. -
Fabric Supplier List
FABRIC SUPPLIER LIST CANADA Kendor Textiles Ltd 1260 Cliveden Ave Delta BC V3M 6Y1 Canada 604.434.3233 [email protected] www.kendortextiles.com Fabrics Available: Fabric supplier. Eco-friendly. Organic. Knits: solids, prints, yarn dyes and warp. Wovens: solids and yarn dyes. End Use: activewear, bottomweights, medical, lingerie, childrenswear, swimwear, rainwear, skiwear and uniform. Natural & eco items include cottons, bamboo's, modals, linens, hemps, organic cottons & organic linens. Technical items include waterproof/breathable soft shells, antibacteric & wicking polyester & recycled polyesters. Is a proud representative of the British Millerain line of waxed cottons and wools, and are able to provide custom souring. Minimums: Carries stock. In-stock minimum: 5 yards/color. Minimum order for production: 10 yards/color. Gordon Fabrics LTD #1135-6900 Graybar Rd. Richmond BC Canada 604.275.2672 [email protected] Fabrics Available: Fabric Supplier. Importer. Jobber. Carries stock. Knits & Wovens: solids, prints, yarn dyes and novelties. End Use: activewear, borromweights, eveningwear/bridal, medical, lingerie and childrenswear. Minimums: In stock minimum 1 yard. Minimum order for production varies. StartUp Fashion Supplier List 2016 – Page 1 CHINA Ecopel (HX) Co., Ltd. China +86 216.767.9686 www.ecopel.cn Fabrics Available: Fake fur and leather garments. End Uses: Childrenswear, Menswear, Other, Womenswear. Minimums: Min. order 50-100 m Hangzhou New Design Source Textile Co., Ltd. China +86 057.182.530528 Fabrics Available: Knits, Polyester/Man-Made, Prints. End Uses: Juniors Fashion, Menswear, Womenswear. Minimums: Min order 50 m. Nantong Haukai Textile Co., Ltd. China +86 513.890.78626 www.huakaitex.com Fabrics Available: Cotton, Linen. End Uses: Corporatewear/Suiting, Menswear, Womenswear. -
Indian Textiles in the Indian Ocean Trade in the Early Modern Period
Indian Textiles in the Indian Ocean Trade In the Early Modern Period Om Prakash* The Indian Ocean is by far the oldest of the seas in history, in terms of it being used and traversed by humans. Intense commercial activity has been carried out in the Ocean at least over the last two millennia. Networks of trade covering different segments of the Ocean have a history of remarkable resilience without being resistant to innovation. While all kinds of commodities, including precious metals, have figured in the Indian Ocean trade, textiles both for mass as well as elite consumption have always had a very special place, both qualitatively, as well as quantitatively, in this trade. In addition to being used for wearing apparel purposes and as furnishings, textiles have also had an important function to perform in the domain of rituals, exchange of gifts, identity formation and so on. In the domain of economics, textiles often served as currency and as medium of exchange. Being probably the largest, and perhaps the most cost-competitive, producer of textiles of all varieties for centuries, India has been at the centre of Indian Ocean trade in textiles for a long period of time. Indian textiles have figured prominently both in the trade with west Asia and the Mediterranean via the Arabia Sea as well as with mainland and island southeast Asia via the Bay of Bengal. As for the first of these regions, the first century A.D. Periplus Maris * Delhi School of Economics, University of Delhi, Delhi-110007 INDIA. Email: [email protected] . -
The Textile Museum Thesaurus
The Textile Museum Thesaurus Edited by Cecilia Gunzburger TM logo The Textile Museum Washington, DC This publication and the work represented herein were made possible by the Cotsen Family Foundation. Indexed by Lydia Fraser Designed by Chaves Design Printed by McArdle Printing Company, Inc. Cover image: Copyright © 2005 The Textile Museum All rights reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means -- electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise -- without the express written permission of The Textile Museum. ISBN 0-87405-028-6 The Textile Museum 2320 S Street NW Washington DC 20008 www.textilemuseum.org Table of Contents Acknowledgements....................................................................................... v Introduction ..................................................................................................vii How to Use this Document.........................................................................xiii Hierarchy Overview ....................................................................................... 1 Object Hierarchy............................................................................................ 3 Material Hierarchy ....................................................................................... 47 Structure Hierarchy ..................................................................................... 55 Technique Hierarchy ..................................................................................