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Women's Clothing in the 18Th Century
National Park Service Park News U.S. Department of the Interior Pickled Fish and Salted Provisions A Peek Inside Mrs. Derby’s Clothes Press: Women’s Clothing in the 18th Century In the parlor of the Derby House is a por- trait of Elizabeth Crowninshield Derby, wearing her finest apparel. But what exactly is she wearing? And what else would she wear? This edition of Pickled Fish focuses on women’s clothing in the years between 1760 and 1780, when the Derby Family were living in the “little brick house” on Derby Street. Like today, women in the 18th century dressed up or down depending on their social status or the work they were doing. Like today, women dressed up or down depending on the situation, and also like today, the shape of most garments was common to upper and lower classes, but differentiated by expense of fabric, quality of workmanship, and how well the garment fit. Number of garments was also determined by a woman’s class and income level; and as we shall see, recent scholarship has caused us to revise the number of garments owned by women of the upper classes in Essex County. Unfortunately, the portrait and two items of clothing are all that remain of Elizabeth’s wardrobe. Few family receipts have survived, and even the de- tailed inventory of Elias Hasket Derby’s estate in 1799 does not include any cloth- ing, male or female. However, because Pastel portrait of Elizabeth Crowninshield Derby, c. 1780, by Benjamin Blythe. She seems to be many other articles (continued on page 8) wearing a loose robe over her gown in imitation of fashionable portraits. -
The “African Print” Hoax: Machine Produced Textiles Jeopardize African Print Authenticity
The “African Print” Hoax: Machine Produced Textiles Jeopardize African Print Authenticity by Tunde M. Akinwumi Department of Home Science University of Agriculture, Abeokuta, Nigeria Abstract The paper investigated the nature of machine-produced fabric commercially termed African prints by focusing on a select sample of these prints. It established that the general design characteristics of this print are an amalgam of mainly Javanese, Indian, Chinese, Arab and European artistic tradition. In view of this, it proposed that the prints should reflect certain aspects of Africanness (Africanity) in their design characteristics. It also explores the desirability and choice of certain design characteristics discovered in a wide range of African textile traditions from Africa south of the Sahara and their application with possible design concepts which could be generated from Macquet’s (1992) analysis of Africanity. This thus provides a model and suggestion for new African prints which might be found acceptable for use in Africa and use as a veritable export product from Africa in the future. In the commercial parlance, African print is a general term employed by the European textile firms in Africa to identify fabrics which are machine-printed using wax resins and dyes in order to achieve batik effect on both sides of the cloth, and a term for those imitating or achieving a resemblance of the wax type effects. They bear names such as abada, Ankara, Real English Wax, Veritable Java Print, Guaranteed Dutch Java Hollandis, Uniwax, ukpo and chitenge. Using the term ‘African Print’ for all the brand names mentioned above is only acceptable to its producers and marketers, but to a critical mind, the term is a misnomer and therefore suspicious because its origin and most of its design characteristics are not African. -
How Is Chintz Made and Where Does It Originate? Where Is It Commonly
How is chintz 1. It is a closely woven, lustrous, plain weave cotton fabric, printed or made and where plain, that has been glazed with starch or glue and then friction does it originate? calendered. Much used for curtains and upholstery. Where is it 2. It was originally a painted or stained calico produced in India and commonly used? popular for bed covers, quilts and draperies, popular in Europe in 17th century and 18th century, where it was imported and later produced. Europeans at first produced reproductions of Indian designs, and later added original patterns. 3. A well-known make was toile de Jouy, which was manufactured in Jouy, France between 1700 and 1843. Today it usually consists of bright patterns printed on a light background. Which weave is used 1. It is a rich fabric using the Jacquard weave where an all over to produce Brocade, interwoven design usually floral patterns. and where is it used? 2. It is used for upholstery and other interior products and often incorporates gold, silver or other metallic yarns. 3. It is also used in Chinese garments. 4. Brocade is typically woven on a draw loom. It is a supplementary weft technique, that is, the ornamental brocading is produced by a supplementary, non-structural, weft in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads together. The purpose of this is to give the appearance that the weave actually was embroidered on. How are chenille yarns 1. The weft yarn is manufactured by placing short lengths of yarn, called made and how are they the "pile", between two "core yarns" and then twisting the yarn used? together. -
George Paynter Career
Paner Family Baseball Family The Professional Baseball Life & Times of George W. Paynter (Paner) (“the ball player”) So we beat on, boats against the current, borne back ceaselessly into the past - The thing that connects us is love. 1 My Grandfather, George W. Paynter (Paner), was on his own from about age 13 (1884), after his Father died at age 31. 1800s generations spelling of Paner varied, but in Germanic Cincinnati they likely sounded alike. Throughout his pro baseball playing he was Paynter. He died when I was in the 4th Grade (1950). I only knew him from our one or two visits each year to see extended family in Cincinnati. I often heard - “ So you’re the Grandson of George Paner - the ball player”. Though his single game in the Major Leagues was 50+ years earlier “the ball player” title stuck due to his zest for playing more than 20 years, in and out of town, in very competitive pro and semi-pro leagues until age 42, and rooting for the beloved home town Reds all his life. Kevin Costner’s line in Field of Dreams - "I only knew him later, after life beat him down.", spoke of my Grandfather to me. George Paynter’s baseball and life story is compelling: • Strong semi-pro years, then briefly in minors at Lynchburg VA. (April, 1894) • “Cup of coffee” career single game in the National League (August 12, 1894) • Devastating Southern League game beaning ( August, 1896) • Patient in the South’s first Hospital for the Insane in Tuscaloosa, AL (1896) • Wife’s (my Grandmother) trip to gain his release and, teach him skills again • Losing George Jr at age 11, in a gruesome homicide (1905) • Playing another 15 years of very competitive pro / semi-pro baseball and loving the game a lifetime. -
Indian Textiles in the Indian Ocean Trade in the Early Modern Period
Indian Textiles in the Indian Ocean Trade In the Early Modern Period Om Prakash* The Indian Ocean is by far the oldest of the seas in history, in terms of it being used and traversed by humans. Intense commercial activity has been carried out in the Ocean at least over the last two millennia. Networks of trade covering different segments of the Ocean have a history of remarkable resilience without being resistant to innovation. While all kinds of commodities, including precious metals, have figured in the Indian Ocean trade, textiles both for mass as well as elite consumption have always had a very special place, both qualitatively, as well as quantitatively, in this trade. In addition to being used for wearing apparel purposes and as furnishings, textiles have also had an important function to perform in the domain of rituals, exchange of gifts, identity formation and so on. In the domain of economics, textiles often served as currency and as medium of exchange. Being probably the largest, and perhaps the most cost-competitive, producer of textiles of all varieties for centuries, India has been at the centre of Indian Ocean trade in textiles for a long period of time. Indian textiles have figured prominently both in the trade with west Asia and the Mediterranean via the Arabia Sea as well as with mainland and island southeast Asia via the Bay of Bengal. As for the first of these regions, the first century A.D. Periplus Maris * Delhi School of Economics, University of Delhi, Delhi-110007 INDIA. Email: [email protected] . -
The Textile Museum Thesaurus
The Textile Museum Thesaurus Edited by Cecilia Gunzburger TM logo The Textile Museum Washington, DC This publication and the work represented herein were made possible by the Cotsen Family Foundation. Indexed by Lydia Fraser Designed by Chaves Design Printed by McArdle Printing Company, Inc. Cover image: Copyright © 2005 The Textile Museum All rights reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means -- electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise -- without the express written permission of The Textile Museum. ISBN 0-87405-028-6 The Textile Museum 2320 S Street NW Washington DC 20008 www.textilemuseum.org Table of Contents Acknowledgements....................................................................................... v Introduction ..................................................................................................vii How to Use this Document.........................................................................xiii Hierarchy Overview ....................................................................................... 1 Object Hierarchy............................................................................................ 3 Material Hierarchy ....................................................................................... 47 Structure Hierarchy ..................................................................................... 55 Technique Hierarchy .................................................................................. -
Batik of Java: Global Inspiration Maria Wronska-Friend the Cairns Institute, James Cook University, [email protected]
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings Textile Society of America 2018 Batik of Java: Global Inspiration Maria Wronska-Friend The Cairns Institute, James Cook University, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf Part of the Art and Materials Conservation Commons, Art Practice Commons, Fashion Design Commons, Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts Commons, Fine Arts Commons, and the Museum Studies Commons Wronska-Friend, Maria, "Batik of Java: Global Inspiration" (2018). Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. 1080. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/1080 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. Published in Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings 2018 Presented at Vancouver, BC, Canada; September 19 – 23, 2018 https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/ Copyright © by the author(s). Batik of Java: Global Inspiration Maria Wronska-Friend [email protected] Batik, the resist-dyeing technique of patterning cloth through the application of wax, has been known since antiquity in several parts of the world, but it reached its highest level of complexity on the island of Java. While deeply embedded in local traditions and associated with the beliefs, philosophy, and social order of Java, during the last two centuries batik has become a powerful cultural intermediary connecting Indonesia with other parts of the world. -
Sporting News Whisky375
— •••••••••••••••••••••••••••*••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••***••***•••**•••• * EDITED BY : News Barons’ Final Into The West HUGH W. ROBERTS Sporting Trip ••••••••«••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Barons Knocked Out In Indianapolis Saturnalia gf Speed Veteran Jim McGuire In Eleventh Round Three More Human Libes Are Sacrificed; 1 o Succeed Nap Lajoie Three TLbent Abandoned Cleveland, August 21.—James McGuire Guire has been scouting for new players. AND KELLUM GO FINE- Hundred Mile MANUEL will succeed Napoleon Lajoie as mana- He will manage the Clevelanders from the his active services begin- LY AND HIT OF FORMER ger of the Cleveland American league bench, S. Bar- next in the final game Indianapolis, August 21.—Three more in the track. Keene’s car crashed Into a eputtorirgs, gurgling and crackling of the baseball team. Late today E. ning Monday TIED UP THE SCORE—ONE HOLE demons a mimic battle. with Philadelphia of the series. lives were sacrificed today in the satur- prat near the side of the track after it speed resembled nard, secretary of the Cleveland team, present has had of had started to skid. the mechani- As the starting shot rang out the 19 ef- Manager Lajoie, who charge TOO MANY. nalia of speed which has inaugurated Schiller, issued a signed statement to that started cannon balls and a frightful the local team for five years, tendered his cian, sustained a slight fracture of the like of the great Indianapolis motor speedway. drivers fect. McGuire was formerly manager last the realize extent of scramble took place as the daring resignation Tuesday following skull, but did not the the One mechanician and two spectators paid tried to secure go- the Boston Americans and joined disastrous the team suffered dur- the injury, thinking lie h*4 only a slight advantageous places slump the of their lives. -
Publish Newsletters
June 2021 Message from the Editor This newsletter has been in the 'works' for some time, as it became difficult to finalize the material in our pandemic world. However; sometimes, one just has to do it. Pour yourself a cold beverage and enjoy the information provided. Feel free to share the newsletter with friends and family. We can be contacted at [email protected] Happy summer! Pat Sparrer Newsletter Editor, Friends of Textiles & Costume Updates: Indian chintz exhibition & virtual programs The Exhibition, The Cloth that Changed the World, India’s Painted and Printed Cottons, and the companion exhibition, Florals: Desire and Design, have seen a seesaw of openings and closures since March 2020 due to provincial restrictions. However, do not be discouraged! If you have not had the opportunity to visit the Exhibitions they have now been extended to run through January 2, 2022! Registration for the following future presentations is free but required. July 13, 2021, 11 am to noon - New Lives of Indian Chintz Sarah Fee in conversation with Eiluned Edwards and Abduljabbar Khatri, exploring the post- independence revival of Indian crafts. Register for New Lives Figure 1 Abduljabbar Khatri printing a masterwork © Eiluned Edwards, 2020. 1 August 18, 2021, 1 to 2 pm - Scenes from a South Indian court: A newly discovered group of 17th-century kalamkari hangings. Explore an important group of South Indian textiles made in the 17th century for an Indian ruler, possibly Tirumal Nayak of Madurai (ruled 1623-59), with senior researcher Rosemary Crill. Figure 2 Hanging of Scenes from an Indian Court © Berdj Achdjian Gallery, 2021. -
History of Toledo Baseball (1883-2018)
History of Toledo Baseball (1883-2018) Year League W L PCT. GB Place Manager Attendance Stadium 1883 N.W.L. 56 28 .667 - - 1st* William Voltz/Charles Morton League Park 1884 A.A. 46 58 .442 27.5 8th Charles Morton 55,000 League Park/Tri-State Fairgrounds (Sat. & Sun.) 18851 W.L. 9 21 .300 NA 5th Daniel O’Leary League Park/Riverside Park (Sun.) 1886-87 Western League disbanded for two years 1888 T.S.L. 46 64 .418 30.5 8th Harry Smith/Frank Mountain/Robert Woods Presque Isle Park/Speranza Park 1889 I.L. 54 51 .568 15.0 4th Charles Morton Speranza Park 1890 A.A. 68 64 .515 20.0 4th Charles Morton 70,000 Speranza Park 1891 Toledo dropped out of American Association for one year 18922 W.L. 25 24 .510 13.5 4th Edward MacGregor 1893 Western League did not operate due to World’s Fair, Chicago 1894 W.L. 67 55 .549 4.5 2nd Dennis Long Whitestocking Park/Ewing Street Park 18953 W.L. 23 28 .451 27.5 8th Dennis Long Whitestocking Park/Ewing Street Park 1896 I.S.L. 86 46 .656 - - 1st* Frank Torreyson/Charles Strobel 45,000 Ewing Street Park/Bay View Park (Sat. & Sun.) 1897 I.S.L. 83 43 .659 - - 1st* Charles Strobel Armory Park/Bay View Park (Sat. & Sun.) 1898 I.S.L. 84 68 .553 0.5 2nd Charles Strobel Armory Park/Bay View Park (Sat. & Sun.) 1899 I.S.L. 82 58 .586 5.0 3rd (T) Charles Strobel Armory Park/Bay View Park (Sat. -
UA19/17/1/1 Baseball Media Guide WKU Athletic Media Relations
Western Kentucky University TopSCHOLAR® WKU Archives Records WKU Archives 1983 UA19/17/1/1 Baseball Media Guide WKU Athletic Media Relations Follow this and additional works at: http://digitalcommons.wku.edu/dlsc_ua_records Recommended Citation WKU Athletic Media Relations, "UA19/17/1/1 Baseball Media Guide" (1983). WKU Archives Records. Paper 1388. http://digitalcommons.wku.edu/dlsc_ua_records/1388 This Other is brought to you for free and open access by TopSCHOLAR®. It has been accepted for inclusion in WKU Archives Records by an authorized administrator of TopSCHOLAR®. For more information, please contact [email protected]. '83 H illtopper Baseball BRIAN DAY Western Kentucky University COACH MURRIE RALPH ANTONE CRAIG MARTIN 1982 Results Over.1I Record: 37-10 1.787) ave South Diviaion: 11-3 (.788" Champion Date Opponent Results Pitcher/ Record Save 3/ 6 @Georgia Tech L 5- 8 Cam Walker / 0-' 3/1 @Georgia Tech W 6- 3 Doug Metzll -O 3/ 9 @Alabama W 9- 4 Greg Raymer/ 1-0 3/ 10 @Alabama W 5- 2 Cam Walker/ l -' Kevin Benzing 3/ 12 ST. XAVIER (III.) W 3- 0 Doug Meu:I2-0 + ST. XAVIER (III.) W 6- 1 Craig Martin/ l -0 + 3/ 13 ST. XAVIER (III.) L 6- 9 Wade Janssen/ D- ' 3/ 14 INOlANA W 9- 1 Dave OeI8110/ 1-0 + 3/ 17 INDIANA-SOUTHEAST W 10- 0 Cam Walker/ 2-' Doug Matt INDIANA-SOUTHEAST W 7- 0 Greg Raymer/ 2-0 3 / 19 CLEVELAND STATE W 2- 011 Kevin 8enzing/ l -0 3120 INDIANA SfATE L 4- 6 Cam Walkerl2-2 INDIANA STATE W 7- 6 Greg Raymer/ 3·0 Doug Matz 3121 INDIANA ST-EVANSVILlE W 11 - 3 Dava 081811012-0+ INDIANA Sf -EVANSVilLE W 12- 3% Jeff Fletcher/ -
History Lesson 6
Grade VIII - History Lesson 6. Weavers, Iron Smelters and Factory Owners Objective Type Questions (1 Mark each) I. Multiple choice questions 1. ____________ and ____________ were the focussing industries by British rule. (a) Cotton and steel (b) textiles and iron and steel (c) Steel and copper (d) textile and spices 2. ___________ was one of the most important ports of the Indian ocean trade. (a) Bihar (b) Patna (c) Surat (d) Lucknow 3. Calico was derived from _______________. (a) Calicut (b) Chennai (c) Calcutta (d) Canada 4. Chintz, cossaes were ___________. (a) dried cotton (b) nylon cotton (c) printed cotton (d) coloured cotton 5. The Dutch, the French and the English were trading companies from (a) America (b) Australia (c) Asia (d) Europe 6. For coloured textiles, the thread was dyed by the dyer known as (a) Angrez (b) Rangbaaz (c) Rangrez (d) Rangeela 7. The first cotton mill in India was set up as spinning mill in Bombay in (a) 1851 (b) 1853 (c) 1852 (d) 1854 1. (b) 2. (c) 3. (a) 4. (c) 5. (d) 6. (c) 7. (d) 1 Created by Pinkz II. Multiple choice questions 1. One of the most important Indian ports of the 17th century. a. Bombay b. Madras c. Surat d. Vishakhapatnam 2. Bandana patterns were mostly produced in a. Rajasthan and Gujarat b. Rajasthan and Orissa c. Rajasthan and Madhya Pradesh d. Chhattisgarh and West Bengal 3. The job of a rangrez was to a. Weave cloth b. Dye thread c. Transport goods to the markets d. Spin thread on the charkha 4.