Ageing Changing face ‘Sauvignon is It’s fair to say that Sauvignon Blanc is not short of detractors. Some wine lovers view it as evolving, and is irredeemably obvious and limited. Sommeliers Sauvignon resent its popularity for stifling diversity on increasingly capable their wine lists. One Master of Wine has ‘hater of Sauvignon Blanc’ on her Twitter profile of meaningful summary. Specific varietal criticism can result Blanc on occasions when I recommend a Sauvignon evolution in Blanc, for example on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen, Surely not? There are those who wouldn’t even when such feedback is rare regarding other the bottle’ varieties. There is also a widespread body of put Sauvignon in their glass, let alone their cellar. opinion that holds Sauvignon in its purest But, says Peter Richards MW, winemakers the form does not make a wine for ageing. world over are now producing wines with the Sauvignon Blanc, it seems, is an easy target. structure to improve over many years Such varietal prejudice, while in some ways understandable, is premature. Because, strange as it may seem for such an historic Here’s a question for you. Be honest. When grape variety (parent of Cabernet Sauvignon, you reach for that special bottle of white wine close relation to Chenin Blanc and Pinot), we you’ve been carefully ageing, how often is it a are only just starting to appreciate the real Sauvignon Blanc? I’d hazard a guess that the potential of Sauvignon Blanc. likes of Chardonnay and Riesling spring more The global figures tell the first part of an readily to mind (and to hand) in this context. intriguing story. According to Kym Anderson’s Nothing strange in that – from top sites and rigorously researched Which Winegrape producers, these varieties have a proven track Varieties are Grown Where?, Sauvignon Blanc is record of ageing and developing well. Indeed, one of the fastest growing varieties in the sometimes they positively need bottle ageing world by plantings. In 1990, it was the 25th in order to soften and blossom into their full most planted variety worldwide, with potential. The implicit assumption is that the 44,677ha (hectares) of vineyard. By 2010, it world’s finest whites either need or should be had shot up to 8th spot, having more than able to mature in bottle. doubled its surface area to 110,138 ha – its By and large, I tend to agree with most of most popular homes being France, New this. What I take issue with – increasingly Zealand, Chile, South Africa and, oddly, vehemently, it has to be said – is the notion Moldova. What this means is not just that that Sauvignon Blanc is a grape variety that Sauvignon is in demand – but that more than doesn’t have the capacity and potential to do half of its global vineyard is relatively young. all these things, or indeed that it is not already What’s more, the first commercial release of making wines that we wine lovers can and Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand was the should be stashing away and eagerly returning 1979 vintage, and it wasn’t until the 1980s Left: Robert to later on. The more I taste, discover and talk and 1990s that this novel take on the grape Mondavi’s Reserve about this intriguing grape variety, the more really took off. The advent of Kiwi Sauvignon Fumé Blanc can I’m convinced that we wine drinkers still have changed the face of the wine world, suddenly mature well for much to learn about Sauvignon Blanc and its giving the grape a totally new stylistic 15 to 20 years. true potential for diversity, quality and paradigm compared to its previous heartlands Right: the 1978 ageability. In short, we’re at risk of missing out of Pouilly-Fumé in the Loire or Pessac-Léognan vintage of on something good. And no real wine lover in Bordeaux. But the intervening few decades Domaine de
would ever want to do that. Photograph: Keith Leighton/Alamy Stock Photo are the mere blink of an eye in wine terms, ➢ Chevalier Blanc
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‘Sauvignons from Pouilly and Sancerre take on an inimitable truffley bouquet after a couple of years in bottle’ Denis Dubourdieu
and it has taken time for producers to learn from each other, as well as their own vines, and refine the craft of Sauvignon in the new global context. In short, Sauvignon is evolving before our eyes – and, as a direct result of this progress in the vineyards, is increasingly capable of meaningful evolution in the bottle. Hidden potential One man who is more of an authority than most is Denis Dubourdieu, Decanter’s current Man of the Year. The respected winemaker and professor of oenology at the University of Above: New Zealand’s ‘I love Sauvignon Blanc – I could wear it as Bordeaux runs a research lab and has taken a Cloudy Bay now has perfume!’ enthuses Marlborough producer keen interest in the science of Sauvignon, sufficiently old vines Jules Taylor. ‘But I also think that aged helping other producers with his insights and and the experience Sauvignon is beautiful. We’ve shot ourselves in producing many a fine version himself (his necessary to produce the foot promoting it as something that’s just Above: Robert Mondavi’s To Kalon vineyard, home Doisy-Daëne Sec being regularly one of my ‘great alternative and suitable for drinking early. It does come down to the I-Block of 60-year-old Sauvignon vines favourite dry Sauvignons from Bordeaux). ageworthy styles of to how you like to drink your Sauvignon, but Dubourdieu is a firm believer in Sauvignon’s Sauvignon’ we should focus on how well the variety can Sauvignons have aged much more consistently capacity not only to express terroir, but also to work when it’s oaked, wild-fermented or under screwcap closures, which Cloudy Bay ‘The key is age in bottle. showing sub-regional expressions – as well as implemented from 2002 and 2003, than ‘Of course, there’s Sauvignon Blanc and how it ages.’ under corks – another evolutionary detail that the terroir, there’s Sauvignon Blanc,’ he chuckles. ‘I adore has arguably helped to usher in the new era of Sauvignons from Pouilly and Sancerre, which Richness and finesse Sauvignon Blanc. the age of the take on an inimitable truffley bouquet after a I found palpable proof of Taylor’s assertions For those in the know, the upper Loire in couple of years in bottle. It’s a variety that can when tasting hundreds of Kiwi Sauvignons, France is a fine source of good, ageworthy vineyard and make ageworthy wines, depending on the some comfortably more than a decade old, at Sauvignons. The likes of Didier Dagueneau, terroir and vintage, when it is grown in the The International Sauvignon Blanc Celebration François Cotat, Henri Bourgeois, Masson- the style’ right climate, low in pH and rich in aroma (the first of its kind) in Marlborough, February Blondelet, Vacheron and Vincent Pinard all Geneviève Janssens precursors. In fact, the ageing capacity of some 2016. The likes of Cloudy Bay, Dog Point, Huia, make wines that develop textural richness and (left) Sauvignons is astonishing. Some of my oldest Jackson Estate, Spy Valley and Wither Hills all finesse as they age, as recent tastings back to Clos Floridène [Bordeaux] whites from 1993 or showed straight Sauvignons that had evolved the early 1980s have proven. For Sancerre Blanc Reserve and I Block Fumé Blanc. The key 1996 are still alive,with remarkable bouquets. beautifully, with vivid lime-pith purity and producer Alphonse Mellot: ‘Sauvignon is the is the terroir, the age of the vineyard and the Most of these wines are drunk too young.’ wonderful texture and energy. These were greatest white grape, along with its cousin style – our To Kalon vineyard gives wines with Having been lucky enough to relish the wines that still had Sauvignon’s aromatic Riesling; those who think otherwise are fools. low pH and high acidity, which are the keys for Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, Graves 1978 and expression, albeit evolved, but were more For a great Sauvignon to be made, though, it the wine to age well.’ the 1992, I appreciate Dubourdieu’s point. about the palate texture, weight and harmony. needs a man who has understood Sauvignon, In South Africa’s Stellenbosch region, But it’s true that many Sauvignons are made to ‘Ageability should be a fundamental quality his terroir and vineyard.’ When it is made well, ageing Sauvignon is a matter of personal taste be sold and drunk young, which also has the of fine wine,’ asserts Cloudy Bay viticulturist Mellot asserts, Sancerre can age ‘15 years at for Johan Reyneke: ‘Mass-market Sauvignon benefit for producers of generating swift Jim White. ‘If we want our Sauvignon to be least’, and sometimes much more, going on to appeals to the novice,’ he says. ‘As the palate returns and keeping bank managers happy. considered one of the great wines of the world, develop ‘delightful hints of truffles and petrol and ability to enjoy more complex wine And certain styles just don’t reward ageing, ageability needs to be part of its DNA. For that, – both savoury and mouthwatering’. develops, the more serious or ageworthy especially those with residual sugar or an you need grapes to be ripe but not too ripe, Sauvignons are right up there with some of the overtly green character (the result can be an with good but not green acidity and lowish Fresh appraisal best offerings available to the wine drinker.’ unholy concoction of sweaty sweetcorn). But yields giving density and substance. We now In California, head winemaker at Robert Reyneke’s point echoes that of Dubourdieu: producers in all parts of the world are now have the vine age and experience to make Mondavi, Geneviève Janssens is also a fan of with Sauvignon, it’s a matter of horses for starting to see the long-term benefits of great alternative and ageworthy styles of ageing Sauvignon. ‘Our Sauvignon ages very courses. Not every producer will want – or be
crafting genuinely ageworthy Sauvignon. Sauvignon.’ Tellingly, White adds that the Leschinsky(2) Chris Photographs: well – we still enjoy 15- to 20-year-old Fumé able – to make ageworthy Sauvignon, and ➢
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not every wine drinker will want to drink aged winemaking globe, can and will – and in an Sauvignon. The use of oak and techniques ever-growing variety of styles. This, if you like, such as wild yeast fermentation, extended lees is Sauvignon’s second coming – after the contact and blending with other varieties – initial Kiwi revolution turned the world of typically Semillon, as in Bordeaux or Western Sauvignon on its head, we’re now starting to Australia – are some of the tools most see the experience, fine-tuning and long-term commonly used by winemakers to give vision that are necessary to make nuanced, Peter Richards MW is Sauvignon Blanc more complexity and ageing ageworthy Sauvignon Blanc, among producers the Decanter World potential. Yet they will all make different from Sancerre to San Antonio and beyond. Wine Awards Regional styles, and each iteration won’t appeal to So, early adopters and real wine lovers take Chair for Chile everyone, however sensitively done. note. If you want to be ahead of the curve, The important point is that, while not all choose your producers with care and start For our panel tasting of Sauvignons can or should age, an increasing making room for fine ageworthy Sauvignon in 83 Sancerre 2015s, number of them, from all corners of the your cellar. I certainly am. D turn to page 89
10 Sauvignon Blancs that will go the distance
Dog Point, Section 94, vintage of the barrel-aged, Sauvignon- was also a revelation: time in the cellar Marlborough, New Zealand led blend, but it’s true to the beautiful brings out a wonderful lime-scented, 2013 96 tangerine-scented, tense and pure style toasty, honeycomb complexity. Drink £19-£25 Cambridge Wine, of this fast-improving property. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 13.5% Hennings, James Nicholson, 2016-2025 Alc 13.5% Laithwaite’s, The Wine Society, Domaine de Chevalier, Vin Cognito, Woodwinters Didier Dagueneau, Silex, Blanc, Pessac-Léognan, Stunning intensity. Smoky, Pouilly-Fumé, Loire, Bordeaux, France 2012 92 citrus-infused, spicy and France 2012 93 £59-£65 Corkr, Crump Richmond compelling. It’s a full-on £63-£75 Clos & Cru, Crump & Shaw, Georges Barbier, oaked style but is also very Richmond & Shaw, Harrods, In Millésima, R&B, Woodwinters harmonious and savoury. Tremendous Vino Veritas, Jeroboams, Justerini It’s gone up a bit in price of stuff. Drink 2016-2022 Alc 14% & Brooks, Roberson late, but this property has a Hardly textbook Sauvignon, track record for eminently Reyneke Reserve White, Stellenbosch, with its peachy, floral, stoney ageworthy Sauvignon- South Africa 2012 95 tones, but this taut, dominant blends. Engaging if £24 (2013) Connolly’s, Harvey Nichols, profoundly mineral white youthful flavours of ripe lemon and James Nicholson, The Guildford Wine Co, SA ages superbly: the 2002 was dynamic, buttered toast. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 14% Wines Online energising and hugely complex tasted in A beautiful single-block, barrel-aged late 2015. Drink 2018-2027 Alc 13% Bay of Fires, Sauvignon Sauvignon from this inspired Blanc, Tasmania, biodynamic producer. This is nutty, Henri Bourgeois, Les Côte des Monts Australia 2014 91 citric, mineral-infused and super- Damnés, Sancerre, Loire, France 2014 £12.21 Accolade Wines gastronomic. Drink 2016-2023 Alc 13.9% 93 Has a wonderfully tight, POA Les Caves de Pyrène focused style with complex, Aquitania, Sol de Sol Both subtle and vivacious. Stony, chalky, grassy, lemony flavours. Sauvignon Blanc, Traiguén, perfect marriage of variety and site (a Succulent, with a touch of Malleco Valley, Chile 2014 94 steep slope in Chavignol). Needs time to sweetness, but it’s well £19.95 Winety develop more savoury complexity (the balanced by the vivid acidity. Elegance from the cool, 1988 was on fine form recently). Drink Drink 2016-2020 Alc 12.5% cloudy south of Chile’s wine 2016-2024 Alc 13% territory. Tense acidity and Ravine Vineyard, Sauvignon Blanc, discreet oaking mean this Cloudy Bay, Sauvignon Blanc, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Sauvignon will develop in Marlborough, New Zealand 2015 92 Canada 2014 91 depth and nuance over time. £21.95-£24 Cambridge Wine Merchants, N/A UK www.ravinevineyard.com Drink 2016-2021 Alc 13.5% Connollys, Drinkmonger, Harrods, Jeroboams, Elegantly oak-aged, this is a refreshing Majestic, Millésima, Roberson, Woodwinters wine. Well worth seeking out if you’re in Château Brown, Blanc, Pessac- The 2015 vintage of this famous, LVMH- the mood for something different. Léognan, Bordeaux, France 2013 94 owned name is spot-on, showing its Drink 2016-2020 Alc 12.5% £25 Fine & Rare classic earthy, peapod and green plum There’s more Semillon than usual in this flavours. The beautifully evolved 2005 For full details of UK stockists, see p103
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