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Home , German wine, Sancerre (wine)

Reprinted with Permission – Quintesstential Barrington® Magazine –Copyright ©2007 Down Cellar Calling All ABC (Anything But ) Enthusiasts By Jim Bryant PHOTO: THOMAS BALSAMO

any wine lovers have reacted to the MChardonnay overload of recent years by moving to the “ABC” (anything but Char- donnay) school of choosing wine. And great alternatives to Chardonnay do abound. The popularity of has surged over the past decade. While produced in many countries, it’s most famous and dis- tinctive if it comes from or New Zea- land. The two countries’ styles are quite dif- ferent, but neither is aged in . In general, the greatest Sauvignon Blanc comes from a region near the French town of (by which the wine is known) along the River. Sancerre vary by producer but often are medium-bodied, crisp, and dry. They have slightly herbal, grassy, mineral, and gooseberry aromas and are quite acidic. Barrington resident Jim Bryant is pursuing his passion and love of wine as an interna- Sancerre is quite different from Char- tional wine consultant. This follows a 30-year career in senior fi nancial and general donnay and is a far better accompaniment management positions at two Fortune 100 companies. He is the owner of James R. to most foods. Great combinations include Bryant L.L.C. and may be reached at [email protected]. white fi sh, especially halibut, and goat cheese. A similar wine comes from the other side of and $75 but are benchmarks of this . come in varying degrees of dry- the Loire. This wine, Pouilly Fumé, is usually The other important difference between ness and sweetness, and the best examples slightly heavier and fuller than Sancerre. French and New Zealand wines deals with age for decades due the grape’s high acid- Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is closures. Almost all of the former comes in ity. Great Rieslings (generally drier and less very different in style from Sancerre. In most corked bottles, while most of the latter are complicated) come from -Lorraine cases, New Zealand’s offerings are also dry in bottles with screw caps. There is no qual- in France and the Clare Valley in Australia. but have aromas of citrus and tropical fruits. ity difference, but the eliminates can be enjoyed with many foods, Some producers’ wines have these attributes spoilage due to wine being “corked.” although pork seems ideally suited. Other almost to a fault; sometimes experiencing Another alternative to Chardonnay is worthy wines from Alsace-Lorraine include this wine can be like drinking the fruits. wine made from the Riesling grape, which and Gewürztraminer. While almost all Sauvignon Blancs are most often come from , France, Another interesting is Alba- value wines, those from New Zealand aver- or Australia. labels in general rino from , Portugal, and Australia. It age $10 –$16 except for Cloudy Bay, which are diffi cult to decipher, and many people is medium- to full-bodied and is great with is approximately double in price. Sancerre remember starting their wine journey by seafood. Grüner Veltliner from Austria ages ranges from $15–$25 except for those of drinking inferior German wines (such as well, is smooth and of medium weight, and Pascal and François Cotat, which are the ) with high residual sugar. As a is full of minerality with a faint aroma of ultimate expression of this grape and will result, one of the world’s greatest , white pepper; it goes well with veal and sea- age gracefully. The Pascal and Cotat wines Riesling, suffers in popularity due to the fact food and makes a nice aperitif. from average $45 for Monts Damnés and Culs de that much of the best comes from Germany. the Italian region of has a faint Beaujeu and $55 for Grand Coté. Didier Da- Wonderful German producers include J. J. smell of almonds. It goes nicely with light geneau produces two Pouilly Fumés—Pur Prum, Egon Müller, , fi sh. Santé. Sang and Silex—that cost approximately $55 and Schloss Vollrads.

23 July/AugustQuintessential 06–Down Cellar Barrington • QBarrington.com