BUYINGGUIDE BEST OF YEAR2020

THIS MONTH

2 VALLEY 31 BURGUNDY 48 SOUTHWEST 51 RHÔNE VALLEY 62 PORTUGAL 72 NORTHERN ITALY 82 CENTRAL ITALY 88 PUGLIA 90 SICILY 92 OTHER SOUTHERN ITALY 93 OTHER ITALY 94 NEW ZEALAND 96 CHILE 99 URUGUAY 100 CALIFORNIA 132 WASHINGTON 138 SPIRITS 140 BEER

Harvest season in Menetou-Salon

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BUYINGGUIDE

will be better from 2021. Organic and biodynamic. Terlato International. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $84

Pierre Morin 2016 Bellechaume (). 94 From a parcel of vines in the village of Bué, A hidden trove of this benefits from the ’s south expo- sure. It has richness, depth and concentration. The dense tannins and bold texture of the black fruits t’s hard to find many benefits of climate are close to attaining the heights of Burgundian are balanced by acidity and a cool, perfumed after- change. However, there is one for vine grow- Pinot Noir, with the same depth and complex- taste. Drink now. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. ers and wine producers in cooler climates. ity. They have learned that wood supports the abv: 13% Price: $31 that ripened erratically are now reg- fruit and doesn’t submerge it. ularlyI capable of going the extra mile, turning The resulting wines are reflected in a recent Alphonse Mellot 2016 La Demoiselle (Sancerre). This wine is structured and out wines that previously could only have been batch of reds reviewed from the regions. Who 93 full-bodied, rich in tannins, black-cherry fruits and made in warmer climes. would have thought that Sancerre could pro- hints of green pepper. Wood aging has smoothed the That’s the case in the eastern duce a 95-point red? Or, that in fruit and brought the beginnings of maturity to the Loire regions of Sancerre and this batch alone, there would be wine. Drink from 2021. Organic and biodynamic. Menetou-Salon. While these Producers have more than 40 wines scoring 90 MS Walker. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $130 areas might be better known for learned to make points or above? , this story is red wines that are These wines are succu- Domaine Bernard Fleuriet et Fils 2018 Les about Pinot Noir. close to attaining lent in rich black cherry tones, 93 Saurins (Sancerre). A new single-parcel red The red wines of Sancerre lifted by acidity that comes from this estate, this wine is structured and firm, and Menetou-Salon, which are the heights of from picking the grapes at just with a crisp red-currant edge and smokiness from wood aging. The wine’s potential is obvious, with made entirely from Pinot Noir, the right moment, and not from Burgundian tannins and acidity backing up the red fruits. Drink used to be mainly thin and Pinot Noir. under-ripeness. They show this wine from 2022. Integrity Wines GA. —R.V. weedy. A few geniuses, such as all that effort put into growing abv: 14.5% Price: $NA the Vacheron family, managed to Pinot Noir in the chalk soils of coax richness from , but mostly the wines Sancerre was worth it—that there was a logic Domaine Matthias et Emile Roblin 2016 Grande Côte de la Vallée (Sancerre). The top were light in profile, with flavors of bell pepper to putting the red vines among the ocean of 93 from the producer, this is impressive. Per- and green herbs. Sometimes, a producer would Sauvignon Blanc. fumed, smooth and mature but still with acidity, the throw wood at the problem and fail. Elsewhere in this Buying Guide, you’ll find wood-aged wine is elegant and spicy. Mature tan- The last six years, starting with the 2014 reviews from Italy, California, New Zealand and nins hold the wine together well, giving structure , there has been a remarkable change. beyond. Check out winemag.com/ratings for and supporting the richness. Drink now. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. Producers have learned to make red wines that thousands more reviews. —Roger Voss abv: 13.5% Price: $45

Domaine Vacheron 2018 Sancerre. From 93 the master of Pinot Noir in Sancerre, this release epitomizes the spicy, perfumed style of wine SANCERRE Domaine Bernard Fleuriet et Fils 2018 produced in the region. It also has richness and 94 Anthocyane (Sancerre). Old vines and fer- density, giving a wine that is worth aging for several Alphonse Mellot 2016 Géneration Dix-Neuf mentation and aging in barrel have produced this years. Drink from 2022. European Cellars. —R.V. 95 (Sancerre). This flagship wine is one of a richly concentrated wine. Big tannins and black abv: 14% Price: $40 pair of releases that celebrate the 19 generations of fruits are laced with acidity and minerality from the the producer. Its structure and ripe, generous black chalky soil. Drink this ripe wine from 2022. Integ- Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy 2018 Sancerre à fruits are still developing, sustained by the wood rity Wines GA. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 93 Nicolas (Sancerre). Bottled unfiltered, this aging and acidity. Age further and drink from 2022. abv: 14.5% Price: $49 richly dense wine still shows young tannins as well Organic and biodynamic. MS Walker. Cellar Selec- as ripe blackberry fruits. Its lush texture bodes well tion. —R.V. Domaine Delaporte 2018 Le Cul de Beaujeu for the future, moving towards a generously struc- abv: 13% Price: $140 94 (Sancerre). For full review see page 7. Cel- tured and perfumed wine as it matures. Drink from lar Selection. 2022. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Alphonse Mellot 2016 En Grands Champs abv: 13.5% Price: $53 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 94 (Sancerre). This sophisticated, ripe wine comes from a high elevation, well-exposed vine- Domaine Vacheron 2016 Belle Dame Pierre Prieur et Fils 2014 Cuvée Maréchal yard. Generous and full, the wine has light tannins 94 (Sancerre). This is a magnificent wine 93 Prieur (Sancerre). This ripe, wood-aged wine and spice from wood aging. The structure and black from a producer that has made a name for its red is mature. Perfumed and with its spice and black fruits are rich and fully mature, although there is Sancerre. The wine is dark, solid and firmly struc- fruits supporting the secondary, smoky flavors, the also potential for further aging. Organic and biody- tured, balanced by rich, dense black fruits that namic. MS Walker. Cellar Selection. —R.V. impart great potential. Drink this wine now, but it abv: 13% Price: $140 Continued on page 24

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander­ ­Peartree, Editor-in-Chief Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor ­Lauren ­Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams,­ Contributing­ Edi- tors Michael Schachner, Lee C. Iijima, Christina­ Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; ­Italian Editor Kerin Simonnet-Febvre 2018 Les Clos Grand O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne­­ Krebiehl­ in Eng- (Chablis). A chalkiness on the nose of this land; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt 97 Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean wine blends with freshly cut lime zest, creating a P. Sullivan in ­Washington; and Beer Editor John Holl in New Jersey. vivid mix of aromas. Although the palate tones Chappellet 2017 Hideaway Vineyard Chap- If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s this down, it still holds immense chalky depth and pellet Estate (Napa Val- initials appear following the note. When no initials appear fol- 96 lowing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more freshness, despite the vintage’s ripeness. The body ley). This wine is 100% varietal and aged in entirely reviewers­ and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all is generous but lifted, with a hint of lanolin accen- new French , the grapes grown on a rocky slope tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by John Holl. tuating the richness. This wine will be even more at 1,425 feet in elevation. Sinewy­ on the palate, it Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its beautiful and chalky with age. Drink 2022–2040. offers flavors of leather, ­mocha and dark berry, with suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us Louis Latour Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.K. background notes of coffee and dark . by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices abv: 13% Price: $95 It packs plenty of punch and opulence while still are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. retaining enviable grace and ­complexity. —V.B. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS abv: 14.5% Price: $140 All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2017 S.L.V. Estate Dutton-Goldfield 2018 Angel Camp Vineyard Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances. 97 Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap 96 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Well ­balanced Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 District).­ From the producer’s first site that was yet opulent in flavor, this superb wine blends a points) are not reviewed. planted in 1970, this wine is sumptuous in black- spicy, earthy, piney aroma with lush, ripe black- SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS berry, fig and dark chocolate. A bright wisp of cassis fruit flavors that are shaded by hints of rosemary Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual- shines on the midpalate, enlivening the bold, supple and baking spices. It’s beautifully complex on the ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price texture. Underlying layers of crushed rock and iron palate and long on the finish. Best through 2028. with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible provide a welcome and intriguing minerality that Editors’ Choice. —J.G. and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled to highlights the finish. Best from 2027–2037.Cellar abv: 14.1% Price: $62 reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but Selection. —V.B. that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In abv: 14.8% Price: $195 general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. Wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less, and are designated Best Buys after surpassing a specific quality-to-price ratio benchmark. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo- cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/ contact-us. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast. net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be Joseph Drouhin 2018 Drouhin Vaudon accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our website. 96 Vaudésir­ Grand Cru (Chablis). A creamy, LABELS nutty haze on the nose of this wine already prom- Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given Brady Vineyard 2018 (Paso R­obles). ises integration. The palate follows through with a the opportunity to submit labels only after the reviews have been Dense aromas of black currant, red flowers ripe, rounded body that has chalkiness, a pithy tex- finalized and assigned to a specific issue. Labels are reproduced 96 and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information and charred meat are wrapped in a rocky edge on ture and a slight warmth that is countered by lem- on label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax the nose of this bottling. There is great cohesion to ony concentration. This big, bold wine portrays the 866.896.8786; or email [email protected] the palate, where rich red fruits are cut by crushed ripeness of 2018, ringing with warmth and fresh- Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at stone flavors, lifted by savory spice and framed by ness. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —A.K. winemag.com/ratings ample acidity and tannins. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $110 abv: 15% Price: $24

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Mira 2015 Schweizer Vineyard Cabernet Sau- Austin Hope 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Dutton-Goldfield 2018 Devil’s Gulch Vine- 96 vignon (Stags Leap District). A 100% vari- 95 Robles). Quite dark in the glass, this reliable 95 yard Pinot Noir (Marin County). This suave, etal wine from a mighty appellation, this is thickly crowd-pleaser begins with hearty aromas of black smooth and intricately flavored wine just wows the concentrated in black fruit, with robust tannins currant, black plum, lush oak and caramel, accented nose and palate with well-modulated baking spices, and oak to carry it through. Specks of coconut and by a hint of olive and loads of clove and nutmeg. The mulled cherries, black tea and cinnamon notes. It’s vanilla contrast against a sturdy wall of black pep- mouthfeel is hearty and rich, with just enough tan- polished, complex and full bodied, but well bal- per, iron and crushed rock, finishing with powerful nic weight to balance the creamy black-cherry, cara- anced, too. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. intensity and length. Best from 2025–2035. Cellar mel and chocolate-ice-cream flavors, which lead to abv: 13.8% Price: $72 Selection. —V.B. an oaky finish. —M.K. abv: 15.5% Price: $377 abv: 15% Price: $56

J. Davies 2016 Jamie Cabernet Sauvignon 95 (Diamond Mountain District). Made from Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2017 Cask 23 Estate Chanson Père et Fils 2018 Montée de Ton- estate-grown grapes, this wine opens in soft, sup- 96 Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap Dis- 95 nerre Premier Cru (Chablis). This wine’s shy ple tannins and a wealth of powerful black fruit. trict). A 100% varietal wine from the best lots of nose allows just brief glimpses of lemon zest and a Expansive and weighty on the palate, it unfurls two of the producer’s prized sites, Fay and S.L.V., slight nuttiness. The nuttiness is equally subtle on integrated acidity throughout. Black pepper, dried this wine is richly expansive in red fruit, balanced the taut, smooth and focused palate that seems to herb and crushed rock components give it an endur- by bright acidity and lengthy structure. Clove, black be a shaft into cool, chalky depths. The long lemon- ing earthiness. Enjoy from 2026–2036. Cellar pepper, black olive and a dash of dark chocolate zest finish is elegant and smooth. Drink 2022– Selection­ . —V.B. mingle on the palate. Best from 2027–2037. Cellar 2040. Vintus LLC. Cellar Selection. —A.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $225 Selection. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $75 abv: 14.5% Price: $295

Kintera Wines 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Dutton-Goldfield 2018 Devil’s Gulch Vine- 95 (Rutherford). Beautifully inviting aromas Arietta 2018 H Block Hudson 95 yard (Marin County). This silky, entice one into a world of blueberry, dark cherry 95 (Napa­ Valley). This is such a spectacular gentle, quietly concentrated wine combines subtle and cassis in this layered, luxurious wine. With showcase of 56% and 44% , mint, pine, and peach flavors, small amounts of and included both from Hudson Vineyards in Carneros. Spicy in adding a suggestion of honey on the finish. While in the blend, it is soft, supple and sultry on the nutmeg and clove, with red and black currant lay- full in feel, it’s not at all fat in texture, but sleek and lengthy palate, with a spicy finish of nutmeg, clove ered throughout, it finishes on accents of cedar, vio- polished. Best through at least 2028. Cellar Selec- and black pepper. —V.B. let and crushed rock. Best from 2028–2038. Cellar tion. —J.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $150 Selection. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $55 abv: 14.9% Price: $150

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Quinta do Vallado 2018 Vintage Port. This Seven Apart 2018 Expedition Cabernet Sau- 95 estate, founded by the legendary Dona 95 vignon (Napa Valley). The inaugural release La Pelle 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- Antónia Ferreira, has produced a massive Port. Dark made by Andy Erickson, this comes from the own- 95 ley). A collaboration between winemaker with tannins and full of opulent black-stone fruits er’s Sage Ridge Vineyard atop Atlas Peak, at 1,400- Maayan Koschitzky of Atelier Melka, viticultur- and prunes, it obviously has a fine future ahead. feet in elevation and planted in 1999. Thick, tannic ist Miguel Luna and vineyard manager Pete Rich- Drink this great Port from 2030. Quintessential and earthy, it buzzes in dried herb, sage, flint and a mond, this stunning white is a must-try, even if Wines. —R.V. rich intensity of blackberry, plum and vanilla. Edi- made in such small quantities that it might be dif- abv: 19.5% Price: $110 tors’ Choice. —V.B. ficult to find. The wine is aromatically exquisite and abv: 15.2% Price: $135 fully realized in tension and texture. Delicate and quenching, the acidity lifts a core of oyster shell, white peach and stone. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $45

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2017 Fay Estate Quinta dos Murças 2015 VV47 (Douro). With 95 Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap Dis- 95 traditional foot treading in open lagars, this trict). From the historic site where Stag’s Leap first field blend has a generously rich and open charac- began, this is nearly 100% varietal, with just 1.5% Merry Edwards 2018 Meredith Estate Pinot ter. Its tannins are firm but ripe—a powerhouse of Cabernet Franc. It delivers a lifted, floral character 95 Noir (Russian River Valley). This wine is spice, black fruits and structure from wood aging. dipped in tangy red fruit. The tannins are pillowy exuberantly layered in bright tones of pomegran- It’s an impressive wine that can be enjoyed now or and supple, with a structure will last. Enjoy­ from ate and strawberry, while textured with integrated until 2025. Now Wine Imports. —R.V. 2027–2037. Cellar Selection. —V.B. tannins and oak. Complementary elements of forest abv: 14% Price: $90 abv: 14.8% Price: $150 floor, black tea and clove play well with the fruiti- ness and enduring lushness on the palate. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $72

Robert Biale 2018 R.W. Moore Vineyard Stasis 2019 Murmur Vineyard Noir 95 Zinfandel­ (Coombsville). First planted 95 (Santa Maria Valley). The early attempts in 1905, this is a relatively cool-climate site that at Gamay Noir on the Central Coast trend toward Mira 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville). imparts great brightness and tart acidity to the fresher styles, but this bottling is reminiscent of a 95 This impressively structured wine, with just wine. A dark cherry flavor is powerfully repre- serious Cru . Aromas of dark berry, crum- 3% Petit Verdot, is ample in a robut blackberry jam sented, alongside baked plum, blackberry and black pled flowers, crushed rock and white pepper lead tone. Iron, tobacco, lavender and dried herb ride pepper. A taut structure suggests this will do well into a palate of boysenberry, plum skin, pepper and along the midpalate with ease. The black pepper with time in bottle. Best from 2028–2033. Cellar purple flowers. The texture is tight, the acidity is on the finish is additionally on point. Enjoy from Selection. —V.B. bright and yet there is compelling density. Editors’ 2026–2036. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $62 Choice. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $144 abv: 14.1% Price: $42

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Claiborne & Churchill 2018 Greengate Ranch Three Sticks 2018 Origin Chardonnay 94 & Vineyard Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). Deli- 95 (Sonoma­ Coast). Tones of crushed salt, oak, Casa Relvas 2018 Herdade de São Miguel cate aromas of red currant, pomegranate and rasp- lemon zest and crème brûlée blend in this beauti- 94 Reserva (Alentejano). This dense, dark red berry are enhanced by touches of rose petal and fully made wine. From the producer’s own Durell blend has a perfumed character, along with young crushed rocks on the nose of this bottling. The wine Vineyard, this white is fermented in concrete egg, tannins and a backdrop of ripe black fruits. Made starts on the palate with a brisk kick, showing wild amphora and stainless steel, aged on its lees to maxi- with Alicante Bouchet, Touriga Nacional and a host plum and rose petal as well as thyme, marjoram and mize creaminess and texture. The power is there, yet of other grapes, this is a big wine that needs to age. lavender. Waves of ever-changing complexity keep it is elegant and balanced. —V.B. Drink from 2022. Quintessential Wines. Cellar coming into the finish. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $55 Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.1% Price: $52 abv: 15% Price: $35

Claiborne & Churchill 2018 Runestone Pinot 94 Noir (Edna Valley). This barrel-selection Cave de Tain 2017 Au Coeur des Siècles bottling is named as an ode to the founder’s former Anthem 2016 Estate Cabernet Sauvi- 94 Selection Parcellaire (Hermitage). Notes of career as professor of Norse studies. It takes a bit of 94 gnon (Mount Veeder). Made by Winemaker honey­comb and pollen offset delicate lemon and time to open, but then doesn’t relent in complex- Jeff Ames, this Cabernet Sauvignon includes 7% apple on the nose of this 100% Marsanne. Sourced ity. Ripe yet crisp aromas of black-raspberry cream, Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot. Aged in 100% from granite and alluvial soils, it’s a juicy, mouthfill- black cherry and toast lead into a grippy palate new French oak, it offers a seamless core of cassis, ing, dry white that’s packed with crisp yellow apple loaded with sagebrush, black plum and earthy herb raspberry and dark cherry, with velvety richness and quince flavors. Pristine fruit and crisp mineral flavors that just grow more intriguing with time. forming a concentrated bond on the palate. —V.B. tones are appealing in youth, but it should continue Drink through 2030. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 15.6% Price: $125 to improve through 2030 and hold longer still. abv: 13.8% Price: $56 Hand Picked Selections. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $97

Bel Colle 2016 Monvigliero (Barolo). Rose, 94 camphor, pipe tobacco, leather and tilled Château de la Crée 2017 La Rue aux Vaches Daou 2018 Eye of the Falcon Reserve (Paso earth are just some of the aromas that appear in 94 (Puligny-Montrachet). The nose of this 94 Robles). This blend of 75% Cabernet Sau- this full-bodied, fragrant red. Elegantly structured, wine is subtle in gentle touches of oatmeal and vignon and 25% Petit Verdot begins with aromas the focused palate features ripe black cherry, lico- lemon. The palate then comes in with chiseled pre- of charred coffee beans, blistered black plums and rice and clove framed in firm, fine-grained tannins. cision and lemony intensity. While hints of honey cherries, with accents of lilac and dried beef. The Fresh acidity keeps it vibrant. Drink 2026–2036. have started to develop, the wine has underlying roasted flavors extend across the palate, bringing Quintessential Wines. Cellar Selection. —K.O. concentration, with a gorgeously chalky texture. It’s together espresso, soy, charred meat and dark fruit. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 taut, bright, stony and long. Domaine Serene. —A.K. The tannins are polished yet hefty. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $70 abv: 14% Price: $75

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Domaine Delaporte 2018 Le Cul de Beaujeu Harrington 2018 Calleri Vineyard Sagrantino Luke 2018 Reserve (Wahluke Slope). 94 (Sancerre). This rich, full-bodied Pinot 94 (San Benito County). The essence of stone 94 Blackberry and other dark-fruit aromas Noir is built aroundx solid tannins. At the same is throughout this bottling of a grape originally from meld with notes of smoked meat, coffee and min- time, dense black fruit balances all that structure, Umbria, Italy. Aromas of river stone, granite and eral. The palate packs a big wallop of rich, layered yielding a powerful wine that needs time in the gravel meet with red currant and underripe straw- black-fruit flavors, with plenty of tannic structure cellar. Drink from 2022. Vineyard Brands. Cellar berry. The palate is brisk in acidity and mineral- to provide support. It’s a power-packed, hedonistic Selection. —R.V. driven, while taut tannins carry bright red-fruit delight. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $53 flavors into a dry finish.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $45 abv: 13.1% Price: $35

Dovecote 2017 Thompson Vineyard Estate Maison Evenstad 2017 La Garenne Premier 94 Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Black plum, Lail 2019 Blueprint Sauvignon Blanc (Napa 94 Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). Hazelnut and a cardamom and more baking spice aromas kick off 94 Valley). This white is fermented in French hint of resin carries the nose of this wine. The pal- the nose of this bottling from a historic vineyard oak barrels, 30% of them new, and then aged in ate adds multidimesional richness in tones of lemon in the newly christened Alisos Canyon appellation stainless steel—offering the best of both worlds. oil, saffron, hazelnut and flint—it is steely precision (approved after this wine was bottled). Flavors of Quenching flavors of stone fruit highlight a rounded, clothed in sumptuous velvet, and will please Bur- lavender, lilac and rose petal meet açaí and pepper- rich palate, dusted in dried herb and earth. —V.B. gundy purists as well as richer Chardonnay fans corns. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $40 with its creamy finish. Domaine Serene. —A.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $80 abv: 13% Price: $125

Dutton-Goldfield 2018 Docker Hill Vineyard Lichen Estate 2018 Moonglow Pinot Noir McKahn 2018 Mourvèdre (Livermore Val- 94 Pinot Noir (Mendocino). Pure, focused fruit 94 (Anderson Valley). Superfresh and power- 94 ley). This substantial, fruit-packed and full- flavors and delicate baking spices give this medium- fully fruity, this medium- to full-bodied wine braces bodied wine overflows with delicious dark-berry to full-bodied wine a sleek but powerful expression. bright, focused blackberry and black-cherry flavors and dark-chocolate flavors while the rich, clinging Concentrated flavors of black cherry and pomegran- with tangy acidity and moderate, grippy tannins. texture is backed by light tannins. With time in the ate are wrapped in light tannins and lifted by bright It has a vibrancy and drama that are wonderful to glass, intricate, complex notes of beef, woodsmoke acidity. It has everything needed to age well. Best ­experience. Best from 2023. Cellar Selection. —J.G. and mushroom appear on the palate and linger on from 2024. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $35 the finish. —J.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $68 abv: 14.9% Price: $42

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Niner 2016 Fog Catcher Estate Grown (Paso Robert Biale 2018 Black Chicken Zinfandel Robert Biale 2018 Varozza Vineyard 94 Robles). This top-shelf bottling is a blend 94 (Napa Valley). The producer’s marquee 94 ­Zinfandel (St. Helena). Brawny and thick in of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Malbec, 15% wine and a nod to its long-standing ties to farm- notes of blackberry, dark cherry and cola, this wine Carmenère and 14% Petit Verdot. Aromas of black ing, this is fresh and earthy in notes of crushed comes from a 40-acre site of head-trained vines at currant and licorice lead into an elegantly framed rock, slate, dried herb and black pepper. The fruit the northern edge of St. Helena. A plush, opulent palate of black plum and violet, bolstered by tan- is layered and sumptuous in flavors of raspberry texture supports the powerful fruit, finishing on nins that are firm but not in the way. —M.K. and black cherry, while supple tannins and a hint of teases of nutmeg and black pepper. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $100 toasted oak provide framing. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $55 abv: 14.8% Price: $50

Portalupi 2018 Shake Ridge Ranch 94 (Amador County). A deft touch of new oak Sante Arcangeli 2018 Lester Family Vineyard and sumptuous, concentrated blueberry and black- Robert Biale 2018 Gaudi Carli Vineyard Bar- 94 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Many cherry flavors are delicious and impressive in this 94 bera (Calistoga). This tiny production wine winemakers pull from this vineyard, but John Bene- full-bodied wine. It is big and superexpressive, lay- is made from some of the oldest Barbera in Napa detti might be closest to mastering the site. Tightly ering cinnamon and nutmeg over the dramatic, ripe Valley, planted more than 80 years ago. Tangy red wound aromas of strawberry, red plum and hibiscus fruit notes framed by moderate fine-grained tan- fruit leads to flavors of just-picked blackberry, with are wrapped in a slightly earthy sage-root element. nins. Best through 2028. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. bright acidity carrying the experience to an earthy The palate snaps with crisp cranberry and rose petal abv: 15% Price: $90 mushroom finish. —V.B. flavors, lifted by white pepper and ­sumac. Editors’ abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $49

Robert Biale 2018 Valsecchi Vineyard 94 Zinfandel­ (Carneros). One of the few and Tatomer 2018 Paragon Grüner Veltliner Quinta do Crasto 2016 Reserva Vinhas oldest vineyards planted to the variety in Carne- 94 (Edna Valley). Tangerine peel, dried lime 94 Velhas­ (Douro). A blend of 30 grape vari- ros, this wine opens in sharp, tangy cherry and and a lightly funky kelp aroma draws the nose into eties from vines at least 70 years old, this wine strawberry flavors dusted with baking spice. Bright this epic bottling by Graham Tatomer. The palate is boasts denisty and a firm structure. It is powered acidity turns up at every level, though the wine extremely dry yet utterly floral, offering flavors of by tannins, dark black-fruit flavors and great con- still maintains plenty of full-bodied power, concen- plumeria, jasmine tea and Mandarin zest. ­Editors’ centration, and is an impressive wine that needs tration and a creamy texture. A finishing touch of Choice. —M.K. time. Drink from 2022. Folio Fine Wine Partners. ­citrus ­underscores its lively nature. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $28 Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $58 abv: 14.5% Price: $45

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Vina Robles 2018 The Arborist Estate Red Three Sticks 2018 One Sky Chardonnay 94 Blend (Paso Robles).­ This is a screamingly 94 (Sonoma­ Mountain). From an estate vine- good deal, offering both hedonistic pleasure and Andis 2018 Old Vine Original Grandpère Vine- yard planted at 1,400-feet in elevation, where cool complexity through a blend of 41% Syrah, 35% 93 yard Zinfandel (Sierra Foothills). Distinctive pockets hug the mountain, this white is bright, Petite Sirah, 12% and 12% . Aro- tones of salt, pepper and sage bring this full-bodied ­grippy and textured. Fennel, flint and lemon peel mas of roasted cherry, smoked meat and cola spice wine to life as they accent the ripe plum and black- flavors wrap around a tense core of stone fruit and lead into a hearty palate of black currant, roasted berry flavors. Mild tannins and a superbroad tex- oak, with shots of acidity that brighten and lengthen game and licorice. It’s balanced by bright acidity, ture make this wine something over which to linger, the ­palate. —V.B. making for a sip that will satisfy many. Editors’ as it no doubt reflects the 19th-century vines from abv: 14.2% Price: $55 Choice. —M.K. which it was made. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 abv: 15.5% Price: $45

Villa Oeiras NV Superior (Carcavelos). This 94 blend of Galego Dourado, Arinto and Rat- Xavier et Agnès Amirault 2016 Le Fondis Claiborne & Churchill 2018 Claiborne Vine- inho is aged for 15 years in wood and comes from 94 (Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil). From deep 93 yard Estate Dry (Edna Valley). Portugal’s smallest appellation. The long wood aging gravel soil to the west of Saint-Nicolas, this wine is Aromas of jasmine, apple, honey and light petrol of this wine has given it an intensity that comes rich and balanced despite its modest alcohol. Ripe, show on the nose of this bottling from a pioneering from great concentration. It has a beautiful texture firm tannins give the wine richness and structure Riesling property. The palate is both crisp and oily, and touches of honey and spice that are memorable. along with some further aging potential. Perfumed offering flavors of lime peel and citrus jelly as well Drink now. Haus Alpenz. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. red-berry fruits offer a fresh take. Drink from 2022. as guava and plumeria. —M.K. abv: 18.5% Price: $31/500 ml Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $28 abv: 12% Price: $46

Vina Robles 2017 Mountain Road Reserve Croma Vera 2018 Grenache (Edna Valley). 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Aro- Zaca Mesa 2018 Bien Nacido Vineyard Hom- 93 Buoyant aromas of raspberry, white pep- mas of f­reshly smashed boysenberry, açaí sorbet 94 age Collection Pinot Noir (Santa Maria per, rose, dried sage, loamy soil and roasted meat and purple flowers make for a vibrant nose in this Valley). An elegant ­lavender aroma meets with make for a layered and dynamic entry to this hearty bottling from the brand’s Adelaida Springs Ranch, ­raspberry, crushed rock and a hint of game on the wine. There is plenty of depth on the palate as well, located just 12 miles from the coast at 1,700 feet nose of this bottling. The tannins are expertly taut, from black raspberry and plum flavors to salumi and in elevation. Those fruity, floral tones are upheld by carrying more floral tones of lavender and rose Turkish delight. —M.K. tight tannins on the otherwise lush palate. —M.K. alongside subdued plum, making for a delicate yet abv: 14.6% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $56 complex display. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $48

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Crū 2018 Solomon Hills Vineyard Pinot Lucia 2018 Garys’ Vineyard Syrah (Santa 93 Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Aromas of iron, Four Vines 2018 The Kinker Cabernet Sauvi- 93 Lucia­ Highlands). This wine is only begin- roasted cherry, sagebrush and potpourri are pleas- 93 gnon (Paso Robles). For the price, this deli- ning to gather the elements that will make it a clas- antly full and rustic on the nose of this bottling cious bottling is hard to beat. Aromas of blackberry sic for years to come, starting with aromas of savory from a coveted vineyard. Light strawberry, roasted pie, caramel and light oak are approachable and dried meat, kelp and charred asphalt. The palate’s red-plum and thyme flavors are fresh yet ruggedly appealing. The palate is wrapped in tight-enough dried purple fruits are lifted by peppercorns, tar delicious on the palate. —M.K. tannins to uphold the joyous black-plum and black- and more seashore influence—elements that will all abv: 14.1% Price: $60 berry-pie flavors, which are enhanced by savory converge in true harmony with time. Drink 2022– touches of meat and black olive. It finishes on a hint 2038. Cellar Selection. —M.K. of mint. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $60 abv: 14% Price: $18

Dovecote 2018 Thompson Vineyard Petite­ 93 Sirah (Alisos Canyon). Petite Sirah is a ­rarity in Santa Barbara County, but this vineyard makes Mettler Family Vineyards 2018 Estate Grown one wonder why. Aromas of lilac, Concord grape, High Valley Vineyard 2018 Zinfandel (High 93 Petite Sirah (). Deep, layered and satu- iodine and elderberry jam slide into an upright, 93 Valley). Pure, delicious black-fruit flavors rated, this inky-colored wine is massively concen- ­acid-washed palate of violet candy and just-smashed and a nicely firm texture make a great combination trated and tannic, but still comes off velvety and black currant. Editors’­ Choice. —M.K. ­ in this full-bodied, high-alcohol but well-balanced generous. Woodsmoke, blueberry and dark choco- abv: 14.8% Price: $55 wine. Hints of mint and cedar accent the black- late are accented by touches of vanilla and cassis. cherry and black-plum flavors while light tannins Best from 2023–2038. Cellar Selection. —J.G. add a good bite to the texture. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 15.9% Price: $32

El Pino Club 2018 Sea Floored Pinot Noir 93 (Sta. Rita Hills). Coiled aromas of raspberry and red cherry meet with a hint of loamy soil on Portalupi 2018 Shake Ridge Ranch Primi- the powerful nose of this bottling. There’s a touch of 93 tivo (Amador County). Absolutely gorgeous savory game at the beginning of the sip, then come Indigené 2017 Parenthesis Syrah (Chalone). black-fruit flavors burst out of this deep, dark, full- flavors of black raspberry paste and cardamom. 93 Like much from this ruggedly dry appella- bodied Primitivo. It is a supergenerous, ripe and lip- Drink now–2033. Cellar Selection. —M.K. tion, this bottling is tightly wound and should stand smacking expression. Blackberry and black-cherry abv: 13.9% Price: $60 the test of time. Dark aromas of black currant, crisp flavors practically overwhelm the palate and linger blackberry, violet, game and graphite lead into a on the finish.Editors’ Choice. —J.G. tense, chalky palate with dark fruit and black pepper abv: 15.5% Price: $40 flavors. Drink 2022–2037.Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $45

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Ruggeri & C. 2019 Vecchie Viti Brut (Valdob- 93 biadene Prosecco Superiore). Honeysuckle Schramsberg 2011 J. Schram (North Coast). and green apple aromas follow over to the polished, 93 Handsome and fully mature, this well-aged vibrant palate, along with green melon and pear. bottle of bubbles is all about complexity. Tempting Quinta dos Murças 2018 Margem (Douro). Tangy acidity lifts the rich flavors while an ele- aromas of toasted walnuts and buttered baguettes 93 This field blend of old vines planted close to gant, continuous perlage provides creamy finesse. are backed by mellow lemon and tangerine notes the Douro River is impressive and also very young. ­WinesU. —K.O. that keep the palate fresh from the start to the lin- It has tight tannins that are still firmly closed, giv- abv: 12% Price: $40 gering finish. —J.G. ing it an initial dry character. But the rich black abv: 12.2% Price: $130 fruit and ripe acidity promise a fine future. Drink from 2023. Now Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $65

Sante Arcangeli 2018 Ananda Pinot Noir Shokrian Vineyard 2018 Moon Unfil- 93 (Santa Cruz Mountains). Named after Wine- 93 tered Pinot­ Noir (Santa Barbara County). maker John Benedetti’s late wife, Melania Ananda Extremely light in the glass, this wine by Drake Benedetti, this bottling combines the grapes from- Whitcraft is sprightly and refreshing, starting with Split Rail and Lester Family Vineyards. It opens aromas of cranberry juice, raspberry, strawberry Quinta dos Murças 2015 Reserva Vinhas Vel- with candied cherry, red currant and wild mint on and hibiscus. It’s crisp and tight on the palate, 93 has (Douro). This wine is made from a wide the nose, leading into a grippy, fresh palate of tart where those red fruit and flower flavors meet with selection of Douro grapes. They give power and red fruit, peppery spices and a smooth finish.Edi - bright acidity. This one goes down all too easily. richness as well as solidly textured tannins and con- tors’ Choice. —M.K. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. centrated black fruits. The wood aging adds spice abv: 14.1% Price: $65 abv: 11.5% Price: $44 and pepper as well as broadening out the structure. Drink from 2022. Now Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

Schramsberg 2017 Blanc de Blancs Méthode Shokrian Vineyard 2018 Opulent Goat Syrah 93 Traditionnelle Brut (North Coast). Lively 93 (Santa Barbara County). A crisp black- citrus flavors are nicely tempered by almond and raspberry-sorbet aroma makes for a fresh, inviting Ron Noble 2018 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir bread-dough nuances in this elegant, well-balanced interpretation of Syrah by Winemaker Alice Ander- 93 (Petaluma Gap). This reserve-level wine and rich-tasting wine. It offers more than fresh son. The palate is grippy in structure, offering tart from a cool-climate site is weighty and robust in fruit, adding aged-on-the-lees complexity for a very blackberry and lavender flavors, clinging to that style, with a creamy texture and plenty of upfront tempting expression. —J.G. snappy and fresh vibe. —M.K. fruit intensity. Brooding black cherry and wild abv: 12.2% Price: $41 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 strawberry layer over sumptuous notes of carda- mom, nutmeg and clove. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $95

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Shokrian Vineyard 2017 Rue Dauphine Pinot 93 Noir (Santa Barbara County). Black rasp- berry, wet clay and rose petal aromas converge on Bel Colle 2016 Simposio (Barolo). Aromas Castelli Family Vineyards 2015 Estate Petite the dynamic nose of this brisk bottling from a vine- 92 of ripe berry, pipe tobacco and new leather 92 Sirah (Ramona Valley). This is a solid wine yard near Los Alamos. The wine is fresh, snappy and form the nose. Firmly structured, the palate offers from a little known Southern California region. lively on the sip, where an energetic tension delivers juicy black cherry, baked plum and star anise Dense aromas of cassis, black plum, barbecued meat bright, easy-to-like flavors of red currant and white alongside close-grained tannins. Drink 2026– and leather lead into a palate wrapped in chalky pepper. —M.K. 2031. Quintessential Wines. —K.O. tannins. Opulent cassis and elegant purple-flower abv: 12.7% Price: $42 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 ­flavors lead into a lavender-scented finish.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

Vina Robles 2018 Estate Petite Sirah (Paso 93 Robles). Quite dark and inky in the glass, Bel Colle 2009 10 Anni Riserva (Barolo). Aro- this bottling begins with aromas of cassis, roasted 92 mas of tar, smoke, pressed rose, leather and Cossart Gordon 2008 Colheita Single Har- meat and a hint of baking spice. Thick, hearty tan- prune slowly take shape in the glass. The aromas 92 vest Verdelho (Madeira).­ At 12 years old, nins frame the savory sip, where teriyaki and roast carry over to the medium-bodied palate along with this wood-aged Madeira has plenty of fruit to go lamb flavors lead to dark berries, moving to vanilla dried cherry and tobacco while fine-grained, dry- with lifted acidity. Orange and candied lemon-peel bean and espresso on the finish. —M.K. ing tannins provide support. It’s still holding up, flavors are preserved by the wine’s total freshness abv: 14.5% Price: $29 but enjoy it sooner rather than later to capture the and spice. Drink now. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. remaining fruit and freshness. Drink through 2024. abv: 19% Price: $48/500 ml Quintessential Wines. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $75

Andis 2018 Painted Fields Old Vine Zinfandel Casa Relvas 2018 Herdade de São Miguel 92 (Sierra Foothills). This well-balanced, lay- 92 Escolha dos Enólogos (Alentejano). Taken Dos Almas 2015 Apogeo de Apalta (Colcha- ered and seamless wine offers tons of fresh black- from a selection in the cellar, this wood-aged wine 92 gua Valley). Blackberry and blueberry aro- berry and raspberry flavors wrapped in a bracing is a rich blend that includes Touriga Nacional, Ali- mas meld with a bit of tar on the nose. A full and texture of fine-grained tannins. Good acidity and a cante Bouschet, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and layered palate brings the intensity, while this Cab- great sense of focus add to its charms. Interestingly,­ others. It has structure as well as powerful black- ernet Sauvignon-lead blend tastes of blackberry, it is made from 50% Zinfandel, 30% Primitivo (the fruit flavors that come through the dark chocolate chocolate and a touch of green herbs. Toasty oak Italian strain of Zinfandel), 10% Petite Sirah and and spice accents. Drink from 2022. Quintessential lends smokiness to a finish that fades with grace. 10% Barbera. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. Wines. —R.V. 1821 Fine Wines & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 15.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $50

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Jermann 2017 Red Angel on the Moon- 92 light Pinot Nero (Venezia Giulia). All about Dovecote 2019 Thompson Vineyard Estate Highway 12 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali- finesse, this linear, balanced red opens with allur- 92 (Santa Barbara County). A light shade 92 fornia). This complex and well-layered wine ing aromas of red forest berry, graphite, smoke and of pink, this bottling begins with delicate aromas of is a true standout. It offers intriguing tobacco, earth underbrush. The elegant palate boasts surprising bubblegum, rose and wet stone. The palate comes and cedar aromas, well-knit flavors of black cherry, freshness for the scorching vintage, featuring juicy alive with zesty acidity and a chalky texture, offer- tamarind and olive, all wrapped in a solid, firm tex- strawberry, pomegranate, white pepper and star ing flavors of peach, citrus and strawberry. —M.K. ture. Composed and well balanced, it will drink well anise. Silky tannins lend a smooth texture. Drink abv: 13.9% Price: $30 through at least 2026. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. through 2023. LUX Wines. —K.O. abv: 13.9% Price: $17 abv: 13% Price: $35

Dovecote 2016 Redtail Thompson Vineyard 92 (Santa Barbara County). Aromas of baked boysenberry and raspberry meld with baking spice, soy and braised beef accents on the nose of this Luke 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Wahluke blend of 34% Syrah, 25% Grenache, 25% Mourvè- 92 Slope). Aromas of fresh raspberry, bitter- dre and 16% Petite Sirah. There’s a fresh snap to Hook or Crook 2018 Field Blend Reserve sweet chocolate and dried herb pop on the nose. the palate, where bright acidity carries flavors of 92 (Lodi). Excellent depth and concentra- The palate is ripe, delicious, fruit filled and lip- tart blackberry, mace and cracked pepper. —M.K. tion give this full-bodied wine a richness that is smacking, displaying a lot of density, intensity and abv: 13% Price: $55 expressed in beautiful flavors of blackberry, blue- texture. Give this beauty a short decant if drinking berry and chocolate. All that lushness is wrapped in the near term. ­Editors’ Choice. —S.S. in a blanket of fine-grained tannins that creates a abv: 14.4% Price: $25 velvety texture. Best through 2026. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

Four Vines 2018 The Biker Zinfandel (Paso 92 Robles). Aromas of fresh berries and crushed rocks make for a tightly wound and focused nose in this bottling. Brisk blackberry-jam and light vanilla flavors converge on the palate, which Indigené 2017 Parenthesis Syrah (Sta. Rita Luke 2018 The Companion Red Blend (Colum- is structurally impressive, wrapped in taut tannins 92 Hills). Dense aromas of baked blackberry, 92 bia Valley).­ This is a blend of 60% Cabernet and solid acidity. —M.K. purple flowers, loamy soil, light smoke andcocoa ­ Sauvignon and equal parts Merlot and Syrah. Plum, abv: 15% Price: $18 dust show on the nose of this bottling. The palate is raspberry, chocolate and cherry aromas lead to an firm and concentrated, offering cassis andviolet ­ fla- explosion of blue- and red-fruit flavors on the pal- vors supported by strong acidity and a tight tannic ate. There is dazzling freshness, a spot-on sense of s­tructure. —M.K. balance and plenty of acid and tannin structure. abv: 14.1% Price: $45 Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $22

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Marchesi Antinori 2017 Villa Antinori Riserva Niner 2017 Heart Hill Vineyard Twisted Spur Planeta 2018 Nocera (Sicilia). Elegant and 92 (Chianti Classico). Aromas of ripe dark- 92 (Paso Robles Willow Creek District). Intense 92 focused, this lithe red offers aromas of fra- skinned fruit, warm spice and blue flower mingle aromas of purple flowers, cassis and a hint of ­vanilla grant blue flower, wild red berry and Mediterranean with a balsamic whiff of menthol. The firm, medium- wafer show on the nose of this blend of 37% Syrah, scrub. Made from vineyards overlooking the sea, the bodied palate offers dried black cherry, licorice and a 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot, 15% savory, ethereal palate delivers juicy strawberry, sour hint of espresso alongside taut, fine-grained tannins. Malbec and 4% Carmenère. There is firm tannic cherry, star anise and a saline note alongside glossy Drink 2021–2027. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. —K.O. framing to the sip, balanced by welcoming flavors of tannins. Vibrant acidity adds even more energy to abv: 14% Price: $35 currant and baking spice that soar across the palate. the mineral tension. Taub Family Selections. Editors’ Drink 2021–2030. Cellar Selection­ . —M.K. Choice. —K.O. abv: 14.9% Price: $75 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

Middle-Earth 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Nelson).­ 92 In addition to pineapple rind, red apple peel and lemon verbena tones, this wine offers gentle accents of warm stone and dried riverside vegetation, too. The acidity is bright and zippy and Robert Biale 2018 Falleri Vineyard Zinfandel there’s lovely purity of fruit on the palate. This is a 92 (Calistoga). Thick, supple tannins wrap ­youthful, vibrant wine that’s expressive of place and Peachy Canyon 2018 Ms Behave Malbec around lifted tones of strawberry and raspberry variety, with an affordable price tag to boot. Copa 92 (Paso Robles). Dense aromas of black- in this wine. From a site planted in 1924, it shows Fina Imports CA. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. berry, ham, coffee and a hint of leather show on the the successful partnership between producer, site abv: 12.5% Price: $17 brooding nose of this bottling. The palate is loaded and ideal vintage, finding balance and nuance that with earthy and savory flavors of bloody meats and impress. —V.B. tobacco, as sandy tannins frame the dark fruit fla- abv: 14.4% Price: $58 vors. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $40

Ron Noble 2018 Estate Pinot Noir (Petaluma Midnight 2017 Titan Tannat (Paso Robles). 92 Gap). Stemmy and earthy, this intriguing 92 Aromas of smoked berry, roasting herbs, Peachy Canyon 2018 Mustard Creek Zinfan- estate wine is lifted in red fruit, with persistent cola spice and black plum skin carry the nose of 92 del (Adelaida District). Aromas of smoked accents of mixed dried herbs. From a relatively this bottling, which is a solid showing of this grape’s blackberry, fennel and oregano are intense but not cool site, it offers structure, lushness and length, Paso Robles potential. Rich flavors of black cherry, overripe on the nose of this bottling, which includes with bright acidity helping to keep it balanced and cola and German chocolate cake show on the palate 11% Petite Sirah. Generous flavors of baked red plum, poised. —V.B. alongside hints of coffee beans and smoked pork. rose petals and tea leaves lead into a graham cracker abv: 14.3% Price: $68 Editors’ Choice. —M.K. finish, all framed in a delicate tension. —M.K. abv: 15.9% Price: $49 abv: 14.5% Price: $42

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Simonnet-Febvre 2018 Fourchaume Premier 92 Cru (Chablis). This wine’s shy nose needs Shannon Ridge 2018 Buck Shack Small swirling to reveal subtle but ripe lemon notes. The Zaca Mesa 2016 Mesa Reserve Estate Vine- 92 Batch Red Wine (Lake ­County). This bold palate comes in with concentration and roundness, 92 yard Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). Although and full-bodied wine boasts a superdeep color, displaying slightly bitter citrus pith. There is a phe- nearly five years old already, this bottle is still firm dense and concentrated blackberry flavors and a nolic edge and a plush body, but the finish shows and tight. Aromas of crisp elderberry, lavender, firm structure. It has the power to stand up to a the inherent zestiness. This wine needs time to white pepper and ­asphalt lead into a palate of black juicy steak or roast, bolstered by fine-grained tan- come into its own. Drink 2023–2030. Louis Latour pepper, violet and iodine flavors, proving intense nins and filled in nicely by opulent black-cherry and Inc. —A.K. and still rigid. Drink through 2031. Cellar Selec- cassis flavors. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $48 tion. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $54

Shannon Ridge 2018 High Elevation Collection­ Bellenda 2017 Sei Uno Metodo Classico Rive di 92 Zinfandel (Lake County). This full-bodied 91 ­Carpesica Extra Brut (Valdobbiadene Prosecco­ and nicely structured wine offers a mix of ripe Superiore). Dry and elegant, this vibrant sparkler blackberry and plum flavors, with light nuances St. Supéry 2018 Virtú Estate Bottled Semil- carries aromas of hawthorn, white stone fruit and of dried sage and aged beef. It’s balanced, complex 92 lon-Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). A blend a whiff of almond. These tones follow through to and distinctive. —J.G. of 54% Sémillon and 46% Sauvignon Blanc, this the crisp, clean palate along with yellow apple and abv: 13.9% Price: $23 barrel-fermented white is crisp and sophisticated. unsweetened lemon drop, accompanied by a refined, Flavors of pea shoot, dried herb, peach and green continuous perlage. Specialty Cellars. —K.O. apple mingle effortlessly on the palate, extending abv: 11.5% Price: $30 long on the ample finish. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

Simonnet-Febvre 2018 Chablis. Lemon zesti- 92 ness on the nose yields a sense of freshness and ripeness at the same time. The palate manages Undurraga 2015 T.H. Hunter Rarities Bonterra 2018 Made with Organic Grapes Mer- to be slender and sinuous despite the warmth of the 92 Garnacha-Cariñena-Monastrell (Cauquenes 91 lot (California). The black-fruit flavors in this vintage and shows an uncommon tension. Paired Valley). Warm berry aromas include a dose of pave- full-bodied and moderately tannic wine go deep with the chalky, textured midpalate, this wine has ment in this Mediterranean red blend. A shock of and broad, filling the palate with rich blackberries a sense of place, finishing with beautiful freshness. bold acidity enlivens the palate and creates a sense and cherries. Hints of cocoa and dark chocolate add Louis Latour Inc. —A.K. of racy crispness. Slightly charred black-fruit fla- interest and complexity, too. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $25 vors show hints of juniper and chocolate, while abv: 13.9% Price: $16 this is jacked up and lifted across the finish. Drink through 2023. Freedom Beverage Co. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

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Brady Vineyard 2018 Cabernet Franc (Paso Lucas & Lewellen 2017 Cote Del Sol Valley 91 Robles).­ Blueberry and blackberry aromas 91 View Vineyard Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sau- are spiced with black pepper, crushed rock and vignon (Santa Ynez Valley). Pleasant aromas of dark loamy soil on the nose of this bottling. The palate berry, toasted wood, coffee bean and roasted cocoa is tightly wound at first, slowly unfurling flavors show on the nose of this bottling. Chalky tannins of dark fruit, smoked wood and more stone, all make for firm tension on the palate, where those wrapped in lingering tannins. —M.K. Cannonball 2018 Eleven Sauvignon Blanc (Dry berry and cocoa tones ride fresh acidity into the fin- abv: 15% Price: $26 91 Creek Valley). Starting off with an inviting ish. —M.K. stone fruit tone, this wine is cohesive and balanced abv: 13.5% Price: $38 in style. Approachable and likable, it delivers lively acidity and floral accents that work well with the fruit richness. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $23

Brady Vineyard 2018 Merlot (Paso Robles). 91 Dark berry, leather and pie crust aromas Marchesi Antinori 2017 Tenuta Tignanello show on the nose of this bottling by Don Brady, 91 Riserva (Chianti Classico). Aromas of warm longtime winemaker at Robert Hall Winery. The spice, French oak, fruitcake and violet are front and palate is wrapped in tightly woven tannins and full center. On the concentrated, firmly structured pal- of seared beef and dark red-fruit flavors, with a hint Crū 2019 French Camp Vineyard Viognier ate, close-grained tannins envelop flavors of rasp- of lilac. —M.K. 91 (Paso Robles Highlands District). Broad aro- berry jam, coconut and baking spice before a coffee- abv: 15% Price: $24 mas of guava, melon, plumeria and jasmine show bean close. Drink 2022–2027. Ste. Michelle Wine on the nose of this bottling. The real reward is the Estates. —K.O. incredibly lively palate, where fresh, zesty acidity abv: 14% Price: $45 delivers clean flavors of pear rind and guava. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

Broken Earth 2017 Limited Release Grenache 91 (Paso Robles). Pinpoint aromas of pome- granate and hibiscus candy are precise and inviting Mettler Family Vineyards 2018 Epicenter Old on the nose of this bottling. Grippy tannins provide 91 Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). This spicy, generous ample structure to the sip, where a brisk raspberry Dovecote 2019 Thompson Vineyard Estate wine does a nice job of blending the baking spice flavor is decorated with wild mint and sage. —M.K. 91 Grenache Blanc (Alisos Canyon). Very light in and maple notes of new barrels with jazzy raspberry abv: 15% Price: $29 the glass, this bottling offers white flower and honey and strawberry flavors. Full bodied and just moder- aromas alongside a mineral-driven edge. There is a ately tannic, it has a big personality. —J.G. chalky structure on the sip, where Key lime sorbet abv: 14.7% Price: $25 and ripe nectarine flavors align. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $35

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Mettler Family Vineyards 2018 Estate Grown Piper Sonoma NV Brut Méthode Traditionnelle Retzlaff 2018 Family Reserve Old Vine Estate 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). This full-bod- 91 (Sonoma County). Combining 70% Chardon- 91 Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Livermore Valley). ied, rich and saturated wine offers abundant black nay, 20% Pinot Noir and small amounts of both This smooth, oak-aged wine brings a bracing, toasty, cherry, black olive and toasted oak flavors on a firm Pinot Blanc and wine from an aged reserve blend, mineral aspect to the inherent citrus and melon fla- texture of moderate, fine-grained tannins. It brings this sparkler is fleshy and lush in an expansive vors, and does it while maintaining good balance a lot of sensory pleasure from its deep, dark color to mouthfeel of fruit and texture. Gravenstein apple, and freshness. It’s a delicious change of pace for a the velvety mouthfeel and baking spice accents that pear and a touch of honey highlight the midpalate, Sauvignon Blanc. —J.G. linger on the finish. —J.G. building to a finish of toast and brioche. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $42 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $22

Quinta do Crasto 2017 Crasto Superior (D­ 91 ouro). From a selection of grapes from the Retzlaff 2014 Estate Bottled Merlot (Liver- quinta’s property up river in Douro Superior, this 91 more Valley). Tempting accents of mint, wine is richly perfumed and structured. The tan- cedar and tobacco surround a solid center of black- My Story 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso nins blend into the juicy richness of the dark fruit, berry and black plum in this full-bodied and lightly 91 Robles).­ Focused aromas of dried cherry, soy, but this fine, ripe wine needs some more time. tannic wine made from organic grapes. It shows leather, smoked oak and coffee candy show on the Enjoy from 2021. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Editors’ some good wood-aged maturity and a satisfying grip nose of this bottling. The mouthfeel is hearty and Choice. —R.V. on the palate. —J.G. full, carrying flavors of blackberry jam, coffee cream abv: 14% Price: $29 abv: 14.4% Price: $36 and a generous helping of oak. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $17

Retzlaff 2018 Estate Bottled Merlot (Liver- Secret Vines 2016 The Original Tannat (Saint 91 more Valley). This expressive wine aged in 91 Mont). Best known in nearby Madiran, Tan- French oak barrels offers a spicy bouquet of mint, nat is also grown in Gascogny’s Saint Mont. This cedar and cigar box followed by powerful and wine offers a broad, rich texture that is still soft- Peachy Canyon 2018 Vortex Zinfandel (Paso focused black-cherry flavors. It’s all supported ening. The tannins typical of the variety are still 91 Robles). Aromas of dark berry, smoke, leather nicely by fine-grained tannins. —J.G. exerting an influence and firm grip alongside the and crushed black rocks show on the nose of this abv: 14.3% Price: $49 black plum fruits. Brickell Wines LLC. Editors’ bottling, which includes 9% Petite Sirah and 8% Choice. —R.V. Counoise. A baked boysenberry flavor meets with abv: 14.5% Price: $20 dried fig and rock tones on the palate. —M.K. abv: 15% Price: $44

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Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2018 Artemis Caber- Astrolabe 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- Böen 2018 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara 91 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). From a blend of 90 ough). With a bit of time in the glass, this 90 County-­Monterey County-Sonoma County). beautiful sites across the valley, including Arcadia reveals itself to be an aromatic bombshell. More This complex, full-bodied and generously oaked Vineyard in Coombsville and Rancho Chimiles in fruit driven than vegetal, it offers notes of lychee, wine offers attractive baking-spice aromas and Wooden Valley, as well as small amounts of grapes passion fruit, lime zest and peach, with a subtle an abundance of pear, apple and honey flavors. It from S.L.V. and Fay, this wine is inviting in dense snow-pea aroma at the back. The palate is bright brings a mouthfilling, smooth texture that’s under- aromas of red fruit, caramel and brioche. With and bouncy, with nicely concentrated fruit and tex- pinned by good acidity. —J.G. dashes of Petit Verdot and Malbec, it finishes on ture. Share a Splash. —C.P. abv: 14.4% Price: $25 accents of tobacco and cedar. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 14.5% Price: $75

Bonterra 2018 Made with Organic Grapes Bartholomew Estate 2018 Estate Grown 90 Pinot Noir (Mendocino County). Cinnamon Undurraga 2019 T.H. Terroir Hunter Sauvignon 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). and clove aromas lead to a juicy, well-concentrated 91 Blanc (Leyda Valley). A bright nose delivers Earthy and thickly concentrated, this robust wine cherry flavor in this medium-bodied, fairly oaky a shot of fresh lime backed by cilantro, vanilla and is intensely flavored and dark. Tobacco, cedar and wine. Light tannins add to the grippy mouthfeel and sea spray. A sleek and juicy palate is cut by piercing clove flavors accent a core of rich blackberry, black help pull the fruit flavors through the finish. —J.G. acidity, while lime, tangerine and tarragon flavors cherry and vanilla, finishing on a dusting of dark abv: 13.8% Price: $18 wrap up on a cleansing finish. This shows all the chocolate. —V.B. attributes of Chilean Sauvignon Blanc at its best. abv: 15% Price: $60 Freedom Beverage Co. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

Broken Earth 2019 Limited Release Fiano 90 (Paso Robles). This bottling begins with Bluewing Vineyards 2017 Cabernet Sauvi- clean, pleasant and yet strong lines of peach, apple 90 gnon (Sonoma County). This is a brawny, blossom and lime peel on the nose. There’s undeni- Vina Robles 2018 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon approachable and likable wine, thick in tannin and able ripeness of guava and other tropical fruits on 91 (Paso Robles). Aromas of roasted black oak. Dark berry, cola, vanilla and a thread of last- the palate, but the texture is chalky and the acidity cherry, fig, caramel and milk chocolate make for a ing baking spice highlight the full-bodied, soft and is fresh. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. rich and gooey entry to the nose of this appellation supple palate. —V.B. abv: 13.1% Price: $24 blend. Lavish, creamy and smooth tannins frame abv: 14.5% Price: $20 the sip, where roasted plum, fig and raisin flavors are framed by a more rigid structure toward the fin- ish. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $26

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Castoro Cellars 2018 Estate Grown Cabernet 90 Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Dark red berries, Cuvaison 2019 Estate Grown Sauvignon cocoa and new leather aromas show on the nose of 90 Blanc (Los Carneros). Lengthy and intense, Carol Shelton 2019 Black Magic Late Har- this reliable bottling from a regional icon. There is this estate-grown white is fermented entirely in 90 vest Zinfandel (Sonoma County). This des- a hefty feeling to the chalky, sandy tannins, zippy stainless steel and aged similarly for another six sert wine is made from a selection of vineyards and acidity and familiar flavors of dark red fruit, herbs months. Kiwi, honey­dew and grapefruit combine blended with 15% late-harvest Petite­ Sirah. Vis- and turned earth. —M.K. around a stony texture of grip and viscosity. —V.B. cous and delicious, it delivers dense flavors of baked abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $24 cherry, vanilla and mocha that blend with balanced accents of baking spice and oak. —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $20/375 ml

Davis Bynum 2017 River West Vineyard Chacewater 2015 Petite Sirah (Lake ­County). 90 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Made 90 This is a well-concentrated, no-nonsense in a thick, full-bodied style with wide appeal, this Castello Bonomi 2011 Cru Perdu Millesimato wine that is superfocused on black-fruit flavors and vineyard-designate­ wine opens with a green olive 90 (Franciacorta). Aromas of white spring laced with the typical blanketing tannins. While a tone and focused acidity. The midpalate delivers flower and white stone fruit form the subtle nose. bit subdued now, it will come around with time. more richness, effusive in toasted oak, vanilla and The vibrant,­ linear palate offers bread crust, orange Best from 2024–2034. —J.G. crème brûlée. —V.B. rind and ripe yellow apple alongside firm acidity abv: 14.2% Price: $28 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 and a lively perlage. It closes on a note of bitter wal- nut. ­Serendipity Wine Imports. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $39

Dixie & Bass 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Crū 2019 Jose’s Rosé (Central Coast). A dark 90 (Columbia­ Valley). The aromas of this wine 90 shade of pink in the glass, this ripe style are ripe and fruitful, with blackberry and black Castello di Neive 2016 Vigna Basarin (Dol- of rosé begins with aromas of strawberry pie and cherry showing pleasing purity.­ There’s plenty 90 cetto d’Alba). Aromas of violet, black- orange cream on the inviting nose. There’s a bright of density and intensity to the flavors.Editors’ skinned berry and spice emerge from the glass. The sizzle of acidity on the sip, where more of those Choice. —S.S. vibrant, mouthwatering palate delivers crushed strawberry and orange flavors arise. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 blueberry, ground pepper and clove alongside pol- abv: 13.8% Price: $20 ished tannins. An almond note marks the finish. Enjoy through 2025. LLS–Winebow. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

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Domaine de la Rivière 2018 Next Door Neigh- Lava Cap 2019 Estate Bottled Sauvignon 90 bor Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). 90 Blanc (El Dorado). Figgy aromas lead to From the Lone Oak Vineyard next door to the pro- subdued but tangy flavors of green apple, mineral ducer’s property, this wine has a rich, confectionary and mild herb in this subtle, medium-bodied, well- opening on the nose. There’s a saltiness underneath Hook or Crook 2018 Reserve Cabernet Sau- balanced wine. It’s not overtly fruity, but well worth the oak, and it’s floral, earthy and well integrated 90 vignon (Lodi). This stalwart, firmly tannic sipping for its complexity. —J.G. on the palate, with lasting flavors of pear, pineapple wine wraps concentrated black-fruit flavors in a full abv: 14% Price: $20 and peach. —V.B. body and grippy texture. It will dazzle with a juicy abv: 14.1% Price: $62 steak or chop, and stay enjoyable through at least 2024. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

Le Garenne 2018 Red (Sancerre). Lightly 90 wood aged, this wine has weight and rich- Dovecote 2018 Quail Valley Vineyard Estate ness as well as juicy red-cherry fruits. A subtle 90 Viognier (Los Olivos District). Tightly woven touch of spice accompanies the lifted acidity. Drink aromas of dried lemon peel, ripe apple, a metallic Kopriva 2018 Ricci Vineyard Unoaked Char- from 2021. Asgram LLC. —R.V. minerality and a touch of nuts show on the nose of 90 donnay (Carneros). Lemon rind, lime and abv: 13% Price: $25 this bottling from Noah and Tamara Rowles’ back- peach figure prominently on the palate of this yard vineyard. There’s bright acidity on the palate, steely, unoaked wine. Light, bright and unfussy, it where flavors of ripe apple, melon and a hint of has lifted acidity that keeps it laser focused and ­banana arise. —M.K. lean. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $35 abv: 12.9% Price: $19

Les Tourelles de la Crée 2017 Premier Cru 90 (Montagny). Although the shy nose of this wine gives little away, the palate shows a fleshy rich- ness of fruit. Overtones of fresh pineapple cluster around a nutty, rounded but fresh core. The finish Lamole di Lamole 2016 Riserva (Chianti has a touch of smokiness. Domaine Serene. —A.K. Dutcher Crossing 2016 Pritchett Peaks 90 Classico). Toasted nut and underbrush abv: 13% Price: $45 90 Zinfandel­ (Rockpile). From a site high aromas lead the nose along with whiffs of menthol. above Lake Sonoma, blended with small amounts The austere palate presents dried cherry, prune, of Petite Sirah and Mourvèdre, this wine is juicy in espresso and tobacco alongside notes of powdered plum and dark cherry. With a soft, integrated struc- sage. Fine-grained tannins leave a drying finish. ture, it builds complexity in the glass, contributing Santa Margherita USA. —K.O. savory notes of black pepper and clove. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 14.7% Price: $51

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Pull 2017 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvi- Luca Bosio 2016 Barolo. Aromas of blue 90 gnon (Paso ­Robles). Concentrated cherry, Rocca delle Macìe 2016 Riserva di Fizzano 90 flowers, baking spices and leather lead the crushed stone, silty dust and light oregano aro- 90 Single Vineyard Gran Selezione (Chianti Clas- way in this firm red. The taut, linear palate offers ripe mas kick off the nose. The palate is rich and vis- sico). Subdued aromas evoking ripe black-skinned black cherry, orange zest and star anise alongside cous in black cherry, nutmeg and vanilla flavors, fruit, toasted nut, new leather and violet form the assertive, close-grained tannins that grip the close. which ride tight tannins and fresh acidity. Editors’ nose. The full-bodied palate features dried cherry, Drink after 2026. Quintessential Wines. —K.O. Choice. —M.K. chopped aromatic herbs and licorice alongside abv: 14% Price: $45 abv: 14% Price: $16 fine-grained tannins. Drink sooner rather than later to capture the remaining fruit. Palm Bay International. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

Michael David 2018 Sixth Sense Syrah 90 (Lodi). Delicious and mouthfilling, this full-bodied wine is drenched in jammy blackberry Quinta do Vallado 2018 Vallado Tinto and blueberry flavors on a rather soft and easy tex- 90 (Douro). Partially wood aged, this rich, Secret Vines 2018 Reborn Varietals Gros ture. The saturated fruitiness stays on the palate dense wine is smooth, maturing well but retaining 90 Manseng-Petit Courbu-Arrufiac (Saint through a lingering finish. —J.G. plenty of its ripe black-fruit flavors. It is a dense Mont). In pursuit of its enlightened policy of finding abv: 15% Price: $18 wine that lingers on a blackberry flavor and lifted and developing old local and native varieties, this acidity. Drink now. Quintessential Wines. Editors’ producer has blended , Petit Courbu Choice. —R.V. and Arrufiac into a fresh while also richly creamy abv: 14% Price: $23 wine. Its sliced apple flavors shine out, bringing acidity and ripeness. Drink now. Brickell Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

Michael Pozzan 2018 Giapoza Cabernet 90 Sauvignon (California). This is a big yet nicely restrained wine, backing its flavors of black cherry and dark chocolate with moderate tannins. Qupé 2018 Syrah (Central Coast). Though Its appetizing texture slowly releases layers of depth 90 founder Bob Lindquist is no longer part of and flavor with time in the glass. Best through this winery, the brand still delivers value-driven 2026. —J.G. Syrah. Aromas of roasted meat, black pepper, lav- Seven Deadly 2017 Red Wine (Lodi). Rich abv: 13.5% Price: $18 ender and light berries kick off the nose, while the 90 licorice, plum and blackberry-jam notes give savory palate blends pepper, crisp fruit and dried this full-bodied wine more than enough fruit flavor, herb flavors into an easy-to-quaff, light-bodied while a velvety texture laced with fine-grained tan- expression. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. nins makes it smooth on the palate. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 15% Price: $16

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My Story 2019 Chardonnay (Paso Robles). 89 Aromas of lime blossom and Key lime pie Viña Chocalan 2017 Gran Reserva Origen­ Car- meet with a chalky restraint on the nose of this bot- 90 menère (Maipo Valley). Olive and ­tomato tling, whose label invites customers to write their leaf aromas meld with pepper and blackberry at names on the front. Flavors of wet stone and lime Noble Vines 2019 242 Sauvignon Blanc (Mon- the base of the nose. A plump, fleshy mouthfeel is zest make for a delicate palate, where sharp acidity 91 terey). Crisp aromas of green apple skin, soft in the middle, while flavors of plum, tobacco, cuts into the finish. —M.K. cut grass and white flowers show on the nose of tomato and thyme carry to a soft finish. Drink abv: 13.4% Price: $17 this bottling, the latest in this numbered series of through 2022. Chocalan USA. —M.S. affordable wines. It’s fresh on the palate in flavors of abv: 14% Price: $18 lime peel, fresh grass and peach, framed by a tense minerality that holds the ripe part in check. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

Seven Deadly Zins 2017 Old Vine Z­infandel Crū 2019 Albariño (Edna Valley). Aromatic 88 (Lodi). This full-bodied, broad and choco- 89 hits of apple blossom, bubblegum, melon laty wine tastes ripe and is quite mouthfilling. Fla- and tuberose show on the nose of this bottling. vors of dried plum, milk chocolate and cedar make a There is compelling tension and sizzling acidity to satisfying blend. —J.G. Muirwood 2018 Merlot (Arroyo Seco). This the sip, which is fresh although very ripe in tropical abv: 15% Price: $16 90 brand is consistently producing affordable flavors of papaya, mango and plumeria. —M.K. wines that punch above their weight class. This wine abv: 13.9% Price: $20 begins with aromas of ash, chalk, red berry and light BEST BUYS pomegranate. These tones continue to the palate, with added streaks of stone, red currant and chalk that hold firm into the finish.Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $15

Michael David 2018 Freakshow Zinfandel Four Vines 2019 Naked Chardonnay (Central 89 (Lodi). Full in feel and firmly structured, 91 Coast). This unoaked bottling carries all this wine is a kind of gentle giant. It offers ripe but the tropical hallmarks of the style, starting with not overt flavors of blackberry and blueberry, with jasmine and guava flesh on the nose. The palate is a well-polished texture despite the moderate tan- generous in both acidity and flavor, showing pine- nins. —J.G. apple, lychee, guava and stone fruit that linger into Noble Vines 2018 337 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 15.5% Price: $20 the grippy finish.Best Buy. —M.K. 90 (California). Polished and well balanced, abv: 13.5% Price: $11 this flavorful and moderately tannic wine fits the bill nicely for a well-priced Cabernet. It has a full body, a concentrated black cherry flavor and subtle hints of chocolate and vanilla. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Bliss 2019 Estate Bottled Sauvignon Blanc Montoya 2019 Chardonnay (Monterey). 89 (Mendocino). Crisp and lively, this wonder- 88 Broad aromas of buttered peach, roasted fully fruity wine lifts bright apple and citrus flavors Chateau Souverain 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon apple, sea salt and daffodil make for a pleasant entry with good acidity for a refreshing, tangy expression. 88 (California). This engaging wine is medium to the nose of this bottling. The palate is ripe in fla- Perfect for lunches and appetizers. Best Buy. —J.G. weight for a Cab and shows authentic varietal char- vors of poached apple and pear, with ample baking abv: 13.5% Price: $14 acter in its savory, interesting mix of black olive, spice to keep it intriguing. Best Buy. —M.K. black cherry and bell pepper flavors. Moderate tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 nins give it a velvety texture. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $10

Guenoc 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (California). 89 Subtle in flavor and well balanced, this Barefoot NV Sauvignon Blanc (California). wine is a bit steely and mineral-like in aroma, then 87 Lemon, lime and snap pea aromas lead to brings light cucumber and honeydew melon flavors Chateau Souverain 2018 Chardonnay (Cali- very fresh, vivid, herbal flavors in this light-bodied, to the palate. It will be a superversatile wine for 88 fornia). This very good wine offers lots of appetizing wine. Best Buy. —J.G. lunch or dinner. Best Buy. —J.G. fruit flavor and a straightforward, slightly crisp abv: 13% Price: $7 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 texture filled out by fresh and pear along- side hints of oaky vanilla and white pepper. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $10

Mirassou 2018 Pinot Noir (California). This 87 smooth, gentle medium-bodied wine ­offers a rich, soft texture and ripe cherry flavors ­accented by a touch of cinnamon. Best Buy. —J.G. Castle Rock 2019 Pinot Noir (Mendocino abv: 13.9% Price: $12 88 County). Fruity and savory flavors mingle well in this full-bodied, smooth-textured wine. It offers ample black-cherry and black-plum notes along with hints of tasty mushroom and beef jus. Chateau Souverain 2018 Merlot (California).­ Best Buy. —J.G. 88 Bold tones of chocolate, vanilla and mint abv: 14.5% Price: $12 start this off. Black licorice and black cherry meld on the palate in this full-bodied and moderately tannic wine. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $10

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BUYINGGUIDE

wine is suave, balanced and totally ready to drink. Domaine Matthias et Emile Roblin 2018 Orig- BEST BUYS Vineyard Road. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 91 ine (Sancerre). A year in wood has given this abv: 13% Price: $35 wine richness and a smooth texture to go with the smoky flavors. Red cherries and spice add complex- Domaine Delaporte 2018 Silex (Sancerre). ity to the wine that needs more time to soften. Drink 92 Named after the flint soil on which the vines from 2022. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. grow, this structured wine has plenty of tannins. abv: 13% Price: $35 They go with the perfumed and spicy black-cherry fruits. Acidity and a juicy character promise aging. François Crochet 2018 Sancerre. This wine Drink from 2021. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. 91 exudes the richness that is now possible in abv: 13.5% Price: $42 red Sancerre. Black-cherry fruits are dense, struc- tured but with the necessary acidity to keep the Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy 2018 Terre de wine balanced as it develops. Drink from 2022. 92 Maimbray (Sancerre). This dense wine has Organic and biodynamic. Old World Imports LLC. Barefoot NV Chardonnay (California). fine tannins that are still softening. Blackberry and —R.V. 86 Charred oak and butter aromas are followed red cherry fruits shine with freshness and richness. abv: 14% Price: $25 by ripe fruit flavors and more butter and toast. The elements have potential and will come together This full-bodied wine is broad in mouthfeel, shows further. Drink from 2022. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. Lucien Crochet 2015 La Croix du Roy plenty of oak influence and has a thick texture.Best abv: 13.5% Price: $30 91 (Sancerre). This perfumed, ripe wine is now Buy. —J.G. fully mature. Although the fruitiness may be dimin- abv: 13% Price: $7 Pierre Prieur et Fils 2016 Domaine de Saint- ished, the texture has softened and opened into a 92 Pierre (Sancerre). This is a ripe, mature and smooth, structured, cherry-jam-flavored, wine. perfumed wine. Juicy fruits have softened into gen- Drink now. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. —R.V. erous tannins to produce a texture that is smooth abv: 13% Price: $32 but has a dry edge. Drink now. Vineyard Road. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23 Michel Vattan 2018 B-C (Sancerre). S o ft 91 and fruity, this wine has a texture that has Roger et Didier Raimbault 2018 Vieilles smoothed out into luscious blackberry flavors. 92 Vignes (Sancerre). Concentrated and dense, Acidity and a hint of pepper add further interest this structured wine demands aging. Ripe black- to the forward fruitiness. Drink from 2021. Boivin cherry flavors are threaded by dry, firm tannins and Selections. —R.V. freshened by the juicy aftertaste. Drink from 2022. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $65 Pierre Morin 2017 Sancerre. Produced from Castle Rock 2019 California Cuvée Pinot Noir 91 several parcels of vines, this wine is ripe and 86 (California). A reduced, flinty aroma gives Alban Roblin 2018 Sancerre. After a year in smoothly textured. There is a succulent character way to pleasant fruit flavors and earthy overtones in 91 wood, this wine has developed a rich, lush to the polished texture and balance between fruit this medium-bodied wine. Best Buy. —J.G. character that cushions the black fruits and softens and the partial wood aging. Drink the wine now. abv: 14.5% Price: $11 the tannins and acidity. The wine is ripe, balanced Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. and ready to drink. APS Wine & Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $27 abv: 14% Price: $30 Alphonse Mellot 2016 La Moussière Château de Sancerre 2018 Tradition 90 (Sancerre). This ripe wine is full of red- 91 (Sancerre). This full, silky-textured wine is cherry flavors broadened by the wood aging. Tan- packed with ripe cherry flavors and toasty notes nins and juicy berry flavors are balanced, giving a from wood aging. It is still developing but the juicy wine that is ready to drink. MS Walker. —R.V. character is already established. Drink this poised abv: 13% Price: $52 wine from 2021. USA Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $34 Clement et Florian Berthier 2018 Sancerre. A 90 perfumed wine with spice and bitter cherry Clement et Florian Berthier 2016 La Croix flavors, this red offers a crunchy texture as well as 91 Renaud (Sancerre). Now mature, this ripe ripe fruitiness. It needs a few more months and will Chateau Souverain 2018 Pinot Noir (Califor- wine has secondary undergrowth flavors, touched be best from 2021. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. 86 nia). This full-bodied wine is smooth and by mushrooms while still guarding some original abv: 12.5% Price: $27 well behaved, offering generally ripe black-fruit fla- black-cherry freshness. The wine is balanced and vors, low tannins and a hint of baking spice. Best ready to drink. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. Domaine Bernard Fleuriet et Fils 2018 Buy. —J.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $40 90 Sancerre. A ripe, smoothly textured wine, abv: 13.9% Price: $10 this is packed with black-cherry and red-berry fla- Domaine Fouassier 2018 Sancerre. This per- vors. Tannins support the fruits and spicy struc- 91 fumed, red-berry-flavored wine was wood ture. Drink from 2021. Integrity Wines GA. —R.V. aged for a year. It is polished, rich in fruits, min- abv: 14.5% Price: $34 erality and light toast. The structure will soften well over the next few months, so drink from 2021. Domaine Delaporte 2019 Chavignol Organic. Opici Wines. —R.V. 90 (Sancerre). In this rounded wine, generous abv: 14% Price: $60 black-cherry fruits are balanced by acidity and a light touch of tannins. This perfumed wine is open,

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 packed with fruit and a peppery edge. Drink the an aromatic character and a ripe future. Drink from wine from 2021. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. 2021. VOS Selections. —R.V. MENETOU-SALON abv: 13.5% Price: $36 abv: 13% Price: $38 Domaine Pellé 2018 (Menetou- Domaine Reverdy-Ducroux 2018 Beau Domaine Merlin Cherrier 2018 Sancerre. This 93 Salon). This succulent, juicy wine has ripe 90 Regard (Sancerre). Packed with red-cherry 88 fresh wine is full of red berries and acidity, cherry flavors, generous tannins and freshness all at fruits, this softly textured wine is ready to drink. with a light touch of tannins. Perfumed and fruity, it the same time. Acidity and fruitiness hold the wine Light tannins give a gentle edge to the acidity and will be ready from 2021. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. together and promise aging. Drink from 2021. DB final fruitiness. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $36 Wine Selection. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $21 abv: 14% Price: $27 Domaine Reverdy-Ducroux 2018 Les Grappes Fleuriet Frères 2018 Renaissance La Magie 88 Entières (Sancerre). This is a juicy wine, Domaine Pellé 2016 Le Carroir (Menetou- 90 des Caillottes (Sancerre). Balanced struc- with bold red-berry flavors and spicy tannins from 93 Salon). Ripe and juicy, this perfumed wine ture and ripe cherry fruits are perfumed, making the whole-bunch fermentation. The fruit is still has a cool character to go with its black-cherry this an open wine. Fragrant and fruity, with a bal- young, with a crisp edge that will soften soon. Drink flavors. Partial wood aging has added spice and a anced tannic core, the wine is almost ready and will from 2021. Asgram LLC. —R.V. smooth texture to the wine’s complexity. Drink from be very drinkable from 2021. Vinifrance. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23 2021. Polaner Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $29 Aurore Dezat 2018 Domaine des Chasseignes Jean-Marie Reverdy et Fils 2018 Silex 87 (Sancerre). Lightly wood aged, this wine Domaine Philippe Gilbert 2017 Les Chan- 90 (Sancerre). This ripe, almost mature wine has young tannins as well as perfumed red-plum 93 delières (Menetou-Salon). Aged for two offers rich black-cherry flavors and a backdrop of flavors. It is still structured, with a tough, dry core years in barrel, this single-vineyard wine is just firm tannins. The ripe fruits have been smoothed by that needs to open up to the fruits. Drink from approaching maturity. Rich tannins have softened a year in barrel, adding spice and a lightly toasty fla- 2022. Premier Wine Co. —R.V. to bring in the ripe blackberry flavors and perfumed vor to the mix. Drink from 2021. TAP Wines. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20 acidity. The wine needs a little more time, so drink abv: 13% Price: $20 from 2021. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. Cellar Selec- Domaine Reverdy-Ducroux 2018 Cuvée Lau- tion. —R.V. Le Garenne 2018 Sancerre. For full review 87 rent Reverdy (Sancerre). This perfumed abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 90 see page 20. wine is entirely about its ripe red-cherry fruits, soft abv: 13% Price: $25 tannins and attractive acidity. Drink this wine now. Domaines Minchin 2018 La Tour Saint-Mar- Asgram LLC. —R.V. 91 tin Célestin (Menetou-Salon). This gener- Roger et Didier Raimbault 2018 Sancerre. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 ous wine is full of ripe black fruits. Tannins give 90 Perfumed and elegant, this has soft tannins a touch of dryness but are already well integrated to balance the red-berry flavors. Depth and concen- Domaine Sautereau 2819 Sancerre. This is a into the ripe berry flavors. The perfumed aftertaste tration come from the rich fruitiness, acidity and 87 soft and light wine. Gentle red-cherry flavors and acidity hold promise for the future. Drink from the firm, dry core. The wine will be at its best from are ripe, with a touch of nutmeg from the partial oak 2022. European Cellars. —R.V. 2022. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. aging. It is a open and ready to drink. Baron Francois abv: 14.5% Price: $29 abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $27 Domaine Antoine van Remoortere 2019 Gitton Père et Fils 2016 Les Herses d’Or 90 Menetou-Salon. This young wine is full 89 (Sancerre). A rich, jammy and dense wine, Domaine Tinel-Blondelet 2018 Domaine la of promise. Red-cherry flavors are enthusiasti- this is full of black-cherry and spice flavors. The 87 Croix-Canat La Vendangette (Sancerre). This cally bright and fruity, backlit by acidity and light wine is still dry, showing some flavors from the domaine owned by the Tinel-Blondelet family has tannins. It should be ready to drink from 2022. wood aging while the fruit opens out. Let it have a produced a structured, ripe and black-fruit-flavored Winemonger. —R.V. bit more time so drink from 2021. Metropolis Wine wine. With solid tannins to partner the fruits, the abv: 13% Price: $29 Merchants, Inc. —R.V. wine is set for further aging. Drink from 2021. H abv: 15% Price: $90 Wines. —R.V. Domaine de l’Ermitage 2018 Clos de Davet abv: 13.5% Price: $29 90 (Menetou-Salon). Black-cherry fruits and Joseph Mellot 2018 Le Rabault (Sancerre). soft tannins sustain this soft, warm wine that has a 89 This generous wine offers ripe fruits and Maison Foucher 2018 Le Mont (Sancerre). juicy character. The texture and tannic edge give the warm tannins. Acidity from the red-cherry flavors 86 Juicy and ripe, this is a fresh, red-cherry- wine shape and will allow it to age further. Drink is balanced with the maturing tannins. The wine is flavored wine. Soft tannins and acidity give the from 2021. The Wine Source. —R.V. ready to drink. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. wine a gentle character. It is ready to drink. Polaner abv: 13.5% Price: $35 abv: 13.5% Price: $26 Selections. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $23 Domaine Philippe Gilbert 2018 Menetou-­ Domaine Anthony Girard 2018 La Clef du 90 Salon. This dense wine is packed with rich 88 Récit (Sancerre). In this polished, smoothly Joseph Mellot 2016 Le Connétable black fruits as well as tannins. It’s a sign of the new textured and fruity wine, ripe red-cherry flavors 85 (Sancerre). A blend of the best Pinot Noir wave of reds from this region, giving rich cherry and are shot through with acidity. It still has tannins parcels, this wood-aged wine is rich and structured. berry flavors, touches of wood aging and some aging enough for it to age further, so drink from 2022. T. The dry core suggests an over-enthusiastic use of potential. Drink from 2022. Organic. Rosenthal Elenteny Imports. —R.V. wood, masking black fruits that have weight in the Wine Merchant. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30 background. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $28 abv: 14% Price: $39 Domaine Jean-Paul Picard 2018 Charlaux Isabelle et Pierre Clément 2018 Classique 88 (Sancerre). In this rich wine, soft tannins 90 (Menetou-Salon). Short wood aging has contrast with the mineral texture and smoky char- enhanced the perfumes of this smoky, ripe and acter. This small-production, wood-aged wine has fruity wine. With acidity as well as red-berry fla-

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BUYINGGUIDE vors, the wine is still buoyant, showing a firm layer ter extraction spoil the potential of the fruit. Integ- black-currant and spice flavors, this perfumed wine of tannins. Drink from 2021. World Wine Source. rity Wines GA. —R.V. was produced from young vines. Hints of toast are —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA balanced by a stalky, mineral character. Still a little abv: 14% Price: $22 tight, the wine will be best from late 2020. Jack Tracy & Cie 2018 Madame des Fontaynes Les Edwards Collection. —R.V. Domaine Chavet 2019 Menetou-Salon. 86 Marnes (Menetou-Salon). This soft, smoky abv: 12.5% Price: $14 88 Touches of wood aging gives this wine gen- wine has attractive red-cherry fruits and a stalky erosity as well as spice. They go well with the black- texture. Crisp and ready to drink, the wine is part of Le Garenne 2019 Chinon. Berry fruits and soft cherry fruits to give a wine that is still young but a new venture from the owners of Château de Tracy 87 tannins give this wine a comfortable, fruity has good potential for richness. Drink from 2021. in Pouilly Fumé. Winebow. —R.V. character. Freshness contrasts with ripe strawberry Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $14 flavors. Drink now. Organic. Asgram LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $21 abv: 13% Price: $18

Domaine de l’Ermitage 2019 Les Pierres COTEAUX DU GIENNOIS SAINT-NICOLAS- 88 Chaudes (Menetou-Salon). Profiting from the ripe vintage, this wine has generous black fruits Clement et Florian Berthier 2017 L’Inédit du DE-BOURGUEIL that are smoothly integrated into the tannic struc- 92 Champ Jacquot Pinot Noir (Coteaux du - ture. All about the fruits and warm aftertaste, the nois). This ripe, wood-aged wine has swathes of Xavier et Agnès Amirault 2016 Le Fon- wine is ready to drink. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. red-cherry flavors alongside spice and crisp, per- 94 dis (Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil). For full abv: 13.5% Price: $23 fumed acidity. A well-structured wine, it is just review see page 9. Cellar Selection. approaching maturity. Drink from 2021. Weygandt- abv: 12% Price: $46 Domaines Minchin 2018 La Tour Saint-Mar- Metzler. —R.V. 88 tin Pommerais (Menetou-Salon). With its abv: 12.5% Price: $35 Xavier et Agnès Amirault 2016 Le Val Renou elegant tannins and ripe fruit, this wine has prom- 94 (Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil). From vine- ise. First, though, it needs to lose its green, young Clement et Florian Berthier 2018 Le Gamay yards on the slope behind Saint-Nicolas, this wine is edge. When that happens (and it will), this will be 88 de Pépé (Coteaux du Giennois). In this ripe and dense. Generous red fruits are shot through a structured wine ready to drink from 2022. Euro- smooth, velvety wine, tannins are engulfed by ripe with a fresher, cooler character from the chalk and pean Cellars. —R.V. black fruits. Acidity and black-cherry flavors give flint soil. Rich tannins promise some more aging. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 freshness as well as a rich, open character. Drink Drink from 2022. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. from 2021. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $55 Joseph Mellot 2018 Les Thureaux (Menetou- abv: 14% Price: $37 88 Salon). This ripe wine is rich in tannins and Xavier et Agnès Amirault 2017 Le Clos des black-cherry fruits. Coming from chalk soils west of Clement et Florian Berthier 2018 Pinot Noir- 93 Quarterons Vieilles Vignes (Saint-Nicolas- Sancerre, this structured wine is still young. It will 88 Gamay (Coteaux du Giennois). This bright, de-Bourgueil). A walled section that forms part of be best from 2021, when the smoother textures will spicy wine offers cherry flavors and a good balance the producer’s Quarterons vineyard has given this show through. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. between structure and fruitiness. Juicy and zesty, it dense wine. It has the lift and freshness proper to abv: 13.5% Price: $20 is ready to drink. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. wines from this appellation but with intensity and abv: 13.5% Price: $17 firm tannins that promise further aging. Drink this Domaine de l’Ermitage 2019 Première Cuvée wine from 2021. Organic and biodynamic. Vineyard 87 (Menetou-Salon). This rounded, soft wine Brands. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. shows light extraction and crisp red-cherry fruiti- CHINON abv: NA Price: $42 ness. It is lightly perfumed, with a touch of tannins to give the wine shape. Drink from 2021. The Wine Domaine Gouron 2019 Chinon. This per- Xavier et Agnès Amirault 2018 Les Quarter- Source. —R.V. 90 fumed wine balances fresh blackberry fla- 91 ons (Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil). The bio- abv: 14% Price: $23 vors and acidity with a rich texture. Vibrant, fruity dynamic farming brings out the bright red-berry and smoky, it offers hints of tannins at the end. fruits of this wine that comes from the lowest part Fleuriet Frères 2018 Renaissance Les Demoi- Drink from 2021. Lanterna Distributors Inc. —R.V. of the Saint-Nicolas slope. It has a fresh feel, open 87 selles (Menetou-Salon). This perfumed wine abv: 14% Price: $20 and lightly textured. The juicy aftertaste hints at is ripe, with balanced red fruits and attractive spici- the core of tannins. Drink now. Organic and biody- ness. The cool-climate freshness is supported by Saget la Perrière 2018 Marie de Beauregard namic. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. tannins and stalky red fruits. Drink the wine now. 90 (Chinon). This wine offers ripe black fruits abv: 12.5% Price: $32 Vinifrance. —R.V. and spicy, smoky flavors. Still young, it has rich abv: 13% Price: $20 potential. Let the fruit and dry core soften and meld. Xavier et Agnès Amirault 2017 Les Gravilices Drink from 2021. Taub Family Selections. —R.V. 90 (Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil). This wine Isabelle et Pierre Clément 2017 Tradition abv: 13.5% Price: $22 comes from deep gravel soils on the approach to 87 (Menetou-Salon). This wine has a stalky the Loire river. It is softly textured and light, with character, juicy red fruits, spicy tannins and a touch Domaine de la Commanderie 2018 Vieilles crisp acidity. With cherry flavors and a perfumed of wood from barrel aging. The wine is ready to 89 Vignes (Chinon). Old vines give concen- aftertaste, the wine is ready to drink. Organic and drink. World Wine Source. —R.V. tration to a wine, as is the case with this densely biodynamic. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 textured, black-fruit-flavored bottling. Tannins and abv: 12% Price: $36 youth are still prominent along with a crisp mineral Domaine Bernard Fleuriet et Fils 2018 edge. Let the wine rest a while and open in 2021. Vignoble de la Jarnoterie 2018 Elégante 86 Menetou-Salon.­ Still young, this structured Jack Edwards Collection. —R.V. 88 (Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil). This wine is wine is dry, with a solid core of tannins that domi- abv: 13% Price: $17 ready to drink now, with its spicy, stalky character. nates the red-cherry flavors. A pepper edge and bit- Bell-pepper flavors partner with the tight structure, Domaine de la Commanderie 2018 Cuvée acidity and crisp red fruits. DHI Selections. —R.V. 87 Médiévale (Chinon). Crisply textured with abv: 13% Price: $24

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 aging. Drink this wine from 2021. Organic and bio- Domaine Marchand & Fils 2018 Kalcaire BOURGUEIL dynamic. Polaner Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 92 (Pouilly-Fumé). From a chalk vineyard, this abv: 13% Price: $42 wine is tight and crisp, with a strong mineral tex- Domaine de la Butte 2018 Mi-Pente (Bour- ture as well as intense spice and apple fruits. This 93 gueil). One of three wines from the La Butte Comte Henri d’Assay 2018 Comte Henry Com- rich wine needs time to soften. Drink from 2021. vineyard, this comes from halfway up the slope. The 93 mune de St-Andelain Argiles à Silex (Pouilly- Elliott Bay Distributing Co. —R.V. positioning gives the wine a rich style, expressing Fumé). From flint and clay soil at the high point of abv: NA Price: $70 the vineyard in its ripe black fruits and fine, dark the appellation, this wine is textured, bright with tannins. It is an ageworthy wine, poised and subtly bold white fruits behind a tautly mineral texture. Domaine Marchand & Fils 2018 Kimmeridg- elegant. Drink from 2022. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Cel- The wine will benefit from further aging to bring out 92 ian (Pouilly-Fumé). This dense wine has lar Selection. —R.V. its full potential. Drink from 2021. Wine Symphony, ripe, spicy fruit and rich apple alongside crisply tex- abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. tured citrus flavors. Weight and concentration are abv: 12.5% Price: $49 restrained by tight acidity. Drink this richly fruity Domaine de la Butte 2018 Le Haut de la wine from 2021. Elliott Bay Distributing Co. —R.V. 92 Butte (Bourgueil). From vines at the highest Domaine Masson-Blondelet 2018 D’Or et abv: 13% Price: $70 point of this vineyard, this wine produces generous 93 Diamant (Pouilly-Fumé). This limited-pro- strawberry flavors and velvety tannins. It is struc- duction wine is a selection of the finest grapes from Domaine Masson-Blondelet 2019 Les Pierres tured, but wears that formation lightly. Drink from the estate. It is a structured, young wine, tangy and 92 de Pierre (Pouilly-Fumé). A parcel of old 2021. Organic. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. full of zesty acidity. The wine’s structure remains vines that belongs to Pierre-François Masson has abv: 13.5% Price: $30 important and needs to soften to give richness in produced this crisp, tight and mineral-driven wine. the future. Drink from 2022. Grape Expectations With its nervy, textured character, the wine needs Domaine de la Butte 2018 Perrières (Bour- (CA). Cellar Selection. —R.V. aging. Drink from 2022. Grape Expectations (CA). 90 gueil). This firmly textured wine offers ripe abv: 13% Price: $30 —R.V. red-fruit flavors. Juicy fruitiness and solid tannins abv: 14% Price: $26 give it a bold profile, dense while fresh at the end. Domaine Masson-Blondelet 2015 Traditions Drink from 2022. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. 93 Cullus (Pouilly-Fumé). Aged in large barrels, Domaine Tinel-Blondelet 2019 Génetin abv: 13.5% Price: $37 this wine is now mature while still having a vibrant, 92 (Pouilly-Fumé). Grown on limestone soil, fruity character. The acidity has been tamed, fill- this perfumed, citrus-flavored wine will be very ing the glass with perfumed white fruits that are attractive. As it softens and the initial shock of acid- OTHER RED WINES touched by spice. Drink this wine now. Suitable for ity dissipates, the wine will develop peach and apple vegans. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. flavors, always keeping its mineral edge. Drink from Domaine de Reuilly 2018 Reuilly. This bal- abv: 13% Price: $38 2022. H Wines. —R.V. 89 anced wine offers red-cherry flavors that abv: 13% Price: $30 are already rounded into the light tannins. Fruity Domaine Tinel-Blondelet 2019 Arelles and smoky, with a crisp texture, the wine is ready to 93 (Pouilly-Fumé). This wine shows all the Joseph Mellot 2017 Grande Cuvée des Edvins drink. Organic and biodynamic. Kermit Lynch Wine minerality and tight texture of a young Pouilly 92 (Pouilly-Fumé). This superripe, wood-aged Merchant. —R.V. Fumé. It also has apple and spice flavors, shot wine is rich with spice and full-bodied pear flavors. abv: 13% Price: $20 through with lime and lemon. The wine needs to It comes from flint soil in the small village of Saint- age, so wait to drink from 2022. W. Direct. Cellar Andelain, giving the wine structure to match the Raphaël Midoir 2019 Cuvée Jean Gamay Selection. —R.V. fruits. Drink now. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. 88 (Touraine). A Gamay with red-cherry fla- abv: 13% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 vors, this has soft fruits and light tannins. Poised and balanced despite its alcohol, it is all about fruit- Didier Pabiot 2018 Eurythmie Bouchié-Chatelier 2018 Premier Millésimé iness. Drink now. Jack Edwards Collection. —R.V. 93 (Pouilly-Fumé). Tight and perfumed, this 91 (Pouilly-Fumé). Having softened well with abv: 14.5% Price: $15 wine offers good balance between the crisp texture the extra year in bottle, this wine is now at its best. and white-fruit flavors. The wine is still developing, Crisp green fruitiness has not entirely gone but Domaines Tatin 2017 La Commanderie the fruitiness coming through the steely texture. has been enhanced by the nutty quality, spice and 86 (Reuilly). This perfumed, softly textured Drink this potentially rich wine from 2021. Organic rounded final texture. The wine is ready to drink. wine offers light tannins and red-cherry flavors. and biodynamic. Polaner Selections. —R.V. Misa Imports. —R.V. Hints of tannins guard the dryness of the aftertaste. abv: 13% Price: $48 abv: 13.5% Price: $38 VOS Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Château de Tracy 2019 Pouilly-Fumé. This Domaine Masson-Blondelet 2019 Les Ange- 92 focused wine has tangy acidity, ripe white 91 lots (Pouilly-Fumé). Dense chalk soil has fruits and a strongly mineral texture. Still young, produced this structured, tight wine. It is crisp and LOIRE VALLEY the wine will evolve into complexity and richness. taut, bringing out tense acidity as well as strong Drink from 2021. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. minerality. This wine demands long-term aging. WHITE WINES abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Drink from 2022. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25 POUILLY-FUMÉ Comte Henri d’Assay 2018 Comte Henry Com- 92 mune de Tracy Calcaires (Pouilly-Fumé). The Domaine Tinel-Blondelet 2019 Domaine la Jonathan Didier Pabiot 2018 Prédilection chalk soil of the village of Tracy, close to the Loire, 91 Croix-Canat La Chantepleure (Pouilly-Fumé). 94 (Pouilly-Fumé). Since starting his domaine has produced this balanced wine. Pure citrus fruits This warm, ripe wine is full of creamed-apple fla- in 2006, the producer has concentrated on organic have a steely character that comes through the tex- vors and ripe white fruits. These contrast with the and then biodynamic practices. That’s evidently to ture. Drink from 2021. Wine Symphony, Inc. —R.V. more textured character that is part of the vibrant the benefit of the old vines in this well-structured abv: NA Price: $49 youthfulness of the wine. Give it time, and the wine wine. The smoothly textured fruit shows baked- apple and pink-grapefruit flavors and is set for

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BUYINGGUIDE will be concentrated and densely fruity. Drink from and expanded its horizons. Drink this generous up front. Drink the wine from 2021. Verity Wine 2021. H Wines. —R.V. wine now. WineWise. —R.V. Partners. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $26

Francis Blanchet 2019 Kriotine (Pouilly- Domaine Masson-Blondelet 2019 Villa Pau- Château de Tracy 2019 Mademoiselle de T 91 Fumé). Grown in a vineyard composed of 90 lus (Pouilly-Fumé). Named after the Roman 89 (Pouilly-Fumé). Zesty and really young, this hard pebbles, this tight, crisp wine offers spice as villa found close to the vineyard, this wine is crisp, wine is still tight and textured. As it softens, the well as fruit flavors. Dense texture and concentra- still young with rich citrus fruits and pure acidity. intense citrus fruits will evolve and bring the crisp- tion give richness and aging potential. Drink from The wine is set for some aging, so drink from 2022. ness into focus. Drink from 2021. Winebow. —R.V. 2022. North Berkeley Imports. Editors’ Choice. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $26 Domaine de Bel Air 2019 Cuvée Riquette Domaine Philippe Raimbault 2018 Mosaïque 89 (Pouilly-Fumé). The stony vineyard for this Jonathan Didier Pabiot 2018 Aubaine Sauvi- 90 (Pouilly-Fumé). A ripe wine, with maturing wine has given intense acidity and firm minerality. 91 gnon Blanc (Pouilly-Fumé). A perfumed, flo- white fruits and softening acidity, this has both They go with the tangy, zesty texture and touches of ral wine, this offers hints of lychees as well as ripe freshness and an open character. Touches of miner- spice to produce a vibrant wine that needs to age. peppered-pear flavors. Still young, this complex ality give a textured edge to this wine that is drink- Drink from 2021. WineWise. —R.V. wine will be ready from 2021. Organic and biody- able now. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $28 namic. Polaner Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $26 abv: 13% Price: $36 Domaine des Rabichattes 2019 Pouilly- Domaine Tinel-Blondelet 2019 Arrêt- 89 Fumé. Still very young, this richly textured Jonathan Didier Pabiot 2018 Utopia (Pouilly- 90 Buffatte (Pouilly-Fumé). Named after the wine has great potential. With its tight apple and 91 Fumé). Close to an in style, this vineyard from which it is produced, this wine is citrus fruits and minerality, the wine is textured is made as naturally as possible. That gives the rounded, ripe with layers of acidity, green apples and likely to soften over the next few months. Drink wine an oxidative edge as well as a deep color. It and a texture that is just beginning to soften. Drink from 2021. Flying Blue Imports. —R.V. also enhances the wine’s acidity while muting its the wine from 2021. Maverick Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 fruitiness. Drink this wine from 2021. Organic and abv: 13% Price: $28 biodynamic. Polaner Selections. —R.V. Domaine Marchand & Fils 2019 Les Kérots abv: 13% Price: $58 Francis Blanchet 2019 Calcite (Pouilly- 89 (Pouilly-Fumé). A blend of parcels across 90 Fumé). The chalk soil of the vineyard has the domaine, this young wine is textured and fruity. Michel Redde et Fils 2018 La Moynerie given this young wine a textured edge. It needs The closed, tight character needs to soften to reveal 91 (Pouilly-Fumé). Named after the producer’s time, because behind this texture awaits bright the wine’s natural fruitiness, with fresh citrus and winery, this wine is a blend of fruit from different white fruitiness and refreshing final acidity. Drink perfumed acidity. Drink from 2021. Elliott Bay Dis- parts of the appellation. A little age has rounded out the wine from 2021. North Berkeley Imports. —R.V. tributing Co. —R.V. the wine, giving richness as well as a bite of acidity abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $25 at the end. Although ready to drink, the wine will be even better from 2021. Kobrand. —R.V. Jean-Pierre Bailly 2019 La Craie (Pouilly- Domaine Masson-Blondelet 2019 Thauve- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 90 Fumé). This softly textured wine hints at 89 nay (Pouilly-Fumé). From a seven-acre vine- herbal flavors, with touches of spiciness. Typical yard, this wine is full and ripe. It shows the richness Bouchié-Chatelier 2019 Argile à S (Pouilly- of Pouilly Fumé, it is still young at this stage, but and generosity of the vintage, giving hints of yellow 90 Fumé). Named after clay and flint soil in should open into white and citrus fruitiness. Drink fruits as well as plenty of fresh acidity. This gener- the vineyard, this wine balances between richness from 2021. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. ous wine is ready to drink from late 2020. Grape and taut steeliness. It is young and crisp, with final abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Expectations (CA). —R.V. zesty acidity. Drink from 2021. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Patrice Moreux 2019 Corty Artisan Caillottes 90 (Pouilly-Fumé). From vines planted on Francis Blanchet 2019 Cuvée Silice (Pouilly- Comte Henri d’Assay 2018 Comte Henry poor, stony soil, this wine is closed, with a tight tex- 89 Fumé). This young wine is taut, textured 90 Pouilly Fumé (Pouilly-Fumé). Blended from ture typical of some young Pouilly Fumé. The wine and full of crisp, sliced-apple fruits. With an edge of a number of parcels across the appellation, this needs time for the freshness of the green fruit to minerality and steely character, it needs time. Drink wine is intense but lightly textured, with minerality show and the wine to soften. Drink from 2021. Ver- from 2021. North Berkeley Imports. —R.V. from flint and chalk soils. Drink this lemon-flavored ity Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 wine from 2021. Artisans & Vines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 12.5% Price: $32 Francis Blanchet 2019 Vieilles Vignes Patrice Moreux 2019 Corty Artisan Silex 89 (Pouilly-Fumé). This wine is young but Clement et Florian Berthier 2019 Pouilly- 90 (Pouilly-Fumé). Fermented using natural already surprisingly open. It has a crisp texture, 90 Fumé. Spicy and zesty, this crisp, mineral- yeasts, this wine is steely from the flint soil and taut yellow fruits, perfumed acidity and an accessible driven wine is packed with young, green fruits and with herbal crispness. The wine is still young, tight texture. Drink from 2021. North Berkeley Imports. a taut, nervy texture. At the moment, the textured and waiting to open up over the next few months. —R.V. character masks the fruit, so let it wait a few months Drink from 2021. Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 and drink from 2021. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 12.5% Price: $24 Saget la Perrière 2019 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly Patrice Moreux 2018 La Loge aux Moines 89 (Pouilly-Fumé). Like many wines from this Domaine de Bel Air 2018 Cuvée des Acoins 90 (Pouilly-Fumé). This ripe wine is full bod- appellation, this release needs aging. It is firm and 90 (Pouilly-Fumé). A ripe, richly textured ied and rich, with generous citrus and crisp pear fla- textured, the citrus fruit showing concentration wine, this has generous white fruits as well as pink vors. Powerful weight and density give an emphatic and a steely tension. The wine needs time to soften, grapefruit and plenty of tangy acidity. The extra texture that may not be subtle but is certainly right drink from 2021. Taub Family Selections. —R.V. year in bottle has softened the tightness of the wine abv: 13% Price: $32

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Bertrand Jeannot et Fils 2018 Auguste strong texture needs to subside before drinking. Sauvignon Blanc aromatic character. Elite Wines 88 (Pouilly-Fumé). From a single parcel, this Wait until 2021. Wine Traditions. —R.V. Import. —R.V. wine is bright, fruity, crisp and textured. With the abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 18% Price: $18 extra year, the wine has gained concentration while still keeping plenty of taut freshness. Drink this Château Favray 2019 Pouilly-Fumé. Still Domaine Lecomte 2019 Quincy. This zesty wine now. Tricana Imports. —R.V. 85 young and tight, this wine has green fruits 88 and tangy wine comes from Quincy, an abv: 13.5% Price: $29 and a strong presence of citrus. Acidity cuts right attractive riverine appellation west of Sancerre. It through to give an intensely crisp aftertaste. Drink has a fresh side to the concentrated texture, with Bouchié-Chatelier 2019 La Renardière from 2021. —R.V. quince and citrus flavors coming together. The wine 88 (Pouilly-Fumé). With a mineral character abv: 13% Price: $19 will be ready from late 2020. Winedom LLC. —R.V. from the flint soil, this wine is tight and textured. abv: 13% Price: $19 Although a little suppressed at this young stage, the Joseph Mellot 2019 Domaine des Mariniers fruit is there, with its herbal edge and green flavors. 85 (Pouilly-Fumé). Fruity and soft, this wine Domaines Tatin 2019 Vin Noble (Quincy). Drink the wine from 2021. Misa Imports. —R.V. has ripe citrus and red-apple flavors, with a light 88 This wine is crisp and fruity, with a touch abv: 13.5% Price: $30 texture. Drink now. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. of herbal acidity. A light wine with citrus and apple abv: 13% Price: $25 flavors, it is ready to drink. VOS Selections. —R.V. Compagnie Vinicole de Val de Loire 2018 Le abv: 13.5% Price: $20 88 Pré Vaujour (Pouilly-Fumé). Soft, fruity and ready to drink, this is a rounded wine. It just hints SANCERRE at minerality that lies behind the wine’s grapefruit REUILLY and orange flavors. Drink the wine now. Deutsch Roger et Didier Raimbault 2017 Vieilles Vignes Family Wine and Spirits. —R.V. 91 (Sancerre). Produced from vines that are up Domaine de Reuilly 2019 Denis Jamain Les abv: 13% Price: $30 to 50 years old, this wine is still fresh, ripe with 91 Fossiles Sauvignon Blanc (Reuilly). The name hints of tropical fruit to balance the crisp citrus. It of this bright, mineral-driven wine recalls the fos- Complices de Loire 2019 Marius Cesar Flu- is full and generous. Touches of minerality provide silized shells that make up the chalk soil of the 88 vium Ligerium (Pouilly-Fumé). This young, contrast. Drink now. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. region. A dense, richly fruity character counterbal- taut wine has gooseberry and herbal flavors and a abv: 13.5% Price: $45 ances the tight texture. Give it a few months and it tight texture. As the wine softens, it will begin to will be poised and elegant. Organic and biodynamic. show citrus and green-fruit flavors. Drink from Complices de Loire 2019 Marius Cesar Silicem Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. 2021. Artisan Wine Selections. —R.V. 89 Terra (Sancerre). This vintage produced rich abv: 12.5% Price: $24 abv: 12.5% Price: $45 wines in Sancerre, and this wine shows the effect of ripeness and open fruitiness on Sauvignon Blanc. Domaine de Reuilly 2019 Les Pierres Plates Domaine Tinel-Blondelet 2019 Domaine la The mineral texture contrasts with the wine’s 88 Sauvignon Blanc (Reuilly). The small appel- 88 Croix-Canat L’Epinette (Pouilly-Fumé). This herbal acidity and tangy citrus aftertaste. Drink the lation of Reully produces attractive, crisp Sauvi- wine is ripe while still tight with acidity and miner- wine from 2021. W. Direct. —R.V. gnon Blanc like this wine, which is very accessible ality. Along with crisp apple and grapefruit flavors, abv: 13% Price: $50 and not too intense. With its open, crisp citrus it has a fragrant aftertaste that will soften into the fruits, it is immediately ready to drink. Organic and fruit. Drink from 2021. People Wine Corp. —R.V. Roger et Didier Raimbault 2019 Les Belles biodynamic. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $29 89 Côtes (Sancerre). Young, crisp and vaunt- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 ing its bright fruitiness, this wine is textured, full Joseph Mellot 2019 Le Troncsec (Pouilly- of grassy flavors and tight acidity. As it ages, this 88 Fumé). A single-parcel wine from clay and vibrancy will soften to give warm apple and lime fla- -SUR-LOIRE chalk soil, this is ripe, full in the mouth and rounded. vors. Drink from 2021. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V. Mango and pineapple flavors come through strongly, abv: 13% Price: $55 Domaine de la Taille aux Loups 2018 Clos de giving richness that goes right through to the end. 94 Mosny (Montlouis-sur-Loire). Single-vine- Drink now. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Xavier Flouret 2019 French Blonde yard wines are a specialty of this producer. This one abv: 14% Price: $25 87 (Sancerre). Produced at the Domaine la from old vines is rich, concentrated and spicy. Bar- Gemière, this wine is crisp and softly textured, with rel aging has added touches of nutmeg to enhance Patrice Moreux 2019 Pouilly-Fumé. This herbal and green-fruit flavors. It is bright, balancing the white stone fruits and mineral-driven texture. 88 wine has good potential. Crisp texture fruitiness and acidity. Drink the wine now. Cognac The wine will be ready from 2021. Skurnik Wines, masks the white fruits and perfumed lemon flavors. One, LLC. —R.V. Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. There is an underlying ripeness to this textured abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 wine. Give it time and drink from 2021 Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. Domaine de la Taille aux Loups 2018 Clos du abv: NA Price: $24 QUINCY 93 Hochet (Montlouis-sur-Loire). Fermented and aged in wood, this wine has a good balance Bertrand Jeannot et Fils 2018 Domaine de Domaine Adèle Rouzé 2019 Quincy. A s o ft between fresh fruits and a denser, oxidative char- 87 Riaux (Pouilly-Fumé). In this perfumed 88 wine with attractive apple as well as more acter. Almonds, cantaloupe melon and ripe acidity wine, ripe white fruits are balanced by well-judged tangy lime flavors, this is well textured and elegant. combine with the toastiness from the wood into a acidity. The wine’s texture and fruits are still young, Poise comes from the light texture and zesty final rich wine that is still developing. Drink from 2022 vibrant and fresh. Give the wine time and drink acidity. Drink now. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. or even 2023. Organic. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. from 2021. Tricana Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 13% Price: $25 Domaine de Chevilly 2019 Quincy. This Domaine de la Taille aux Loups 2018 Les Domaine de Bel Air 2019 Pouilly-Fumé. This 88 crisp, white-fruit and citrus-flavored wine 93 Hauts de Husseau (Montlouis-sur-Loire). 86 grassy and herbal wine has green fruits and comes from the small enclave west of Sancerre. It This ripe, toasty wood-aged wine is concentrated, tangy acidity. The minerality is still forceful and the has a tight, mineral and herbal edge and shows real rich with baked apple, honey and textured acid-

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BUYINGGUIDE ity. The wine’s toastiness is still forward and with edge is still young and the wine will certainly age. Jean-Yves Bretaudeau 2019 Domane du its richness, minerality and generous fruitiness, Drink from 2021. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. 87 Colombier Cuvée des Deux Colombes Sur Lie it needs time. Drink from 2023. Organic. Skurnik abv: 13.5% Price: $NA ( Sèvre et Maine). This soft, rounded wine Wines, Inc. —R.V. has just the right balance between freshness and abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Saget la Perrière 2018 M de Mulonnière ripe white fruits. There is a light touch of pepper as 88 (Anjou). This ripe, nutty and creamy wine well as plenty of brightness in this attractive wine. Complices de Loire 2019 Clair de Lune comes from an estate west of Angers. Smoothly tex- Drink now. Steep Hill Importing. —R.V. 90 (Montlouis-sur-Loire). Baked-apple flavors tured and ripe, it has just a hint of bitterness that abv: 12% Price: $15 come from this fruity wine. Lightly honeyed and will disappear as it ages further. Give it until 2021 with touches of lemon, it is young but already well and it will have even greater smoothness and plea- Hubert Brochard 2019 Les Carisannes by balanced and refreshing. Artisan Wine Selections. sure. Taub Family Selections. —R.V. 86 Hubert Brochard Sauvignon Blanc (Val de Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 Loire). This soft, fruity wine from a 12-acre estate abv: 13.5% Price: $34 showcases the less intense side of Sauvignon Blanc in the Loire Valley. It is fresh with crisp apples and a Clos Saint Fiacre 2019 Chardonnay (Orléans- TOURAINE lively aftertaste. Drink now. Winebow. —R.V. 88 Cléry). From the region close to the city of abv: 12% Price: $14 Orleans where the Loire makes its dramatic turn Complices de Loire 2019 Ponte d’Agrumes from flowing north to flowing west, this floral wine 86 Sauvignon Blanc (Touraine). A soft, tropical is fresh with green-apple fruitiness and perfumed fruit and floral wine, this is packed with freshness, LOIRE VALLEY acidity. It is ready to drink. Lanterna Distributors fruitiness and balancing acidity. It is ready to drink. Inc. —R.V. Artisan Wine Selections. —R.V. SPARKLING WINES abv: 13% Price: $29 abv: 14% Price: $17 MONTLOUIS-SUR-LOIRE Domaine A Deux 2019 VOUVRAY 86 (Touraine). A lightly honeyed wine convey- Domaine de la Taille aux Loups 2008 Triple ing and ripe white stone fruits, this 93 Zéro Millésimé (Montlouis-sur-Loire). The Domaine la Croix des Vainqueurs 2018 Le is attractive and fresh. A touch of minerality adds toasty maturity of this rich wine is impressive. It 93 Bouchet Moelleux (Vouvray). A propor- extra complexity. Drink now. Wine Manager LLC. balances the creamed apple and tight minerality tioned and poised wine, this manages successfully —R.V. by rounding and softening them, giving an elegant, to balance intense honeyed sweetness and well- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 spicy aftertaste. Drink now. Skurnik Wines, Inc. honed acidity. Still young and with a great future —R.V. ahead of it, the wine is already impressive. Drink Domaine A Deux 2019 Sauvignon Blanc abv: 12.5% Price: $99 from 2022. Misa Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 86 (Touraine). This crisp, grassy wine has rich abv: 12% Price: $22 gooseberry freshness. Drink this tight, taut and Domaine de la Taille aux Loups NV Triple fruity wine now. Wine Manager LLC. —R.V. 92 Zéro Brut (Montlouis-sur-Loire). Barrel aging Domaine la Croix des Vainqueurs 2018 Le abv: 14% Price: $18 gives this wine its creamy texture and underlines 92 Bouchet Sec (Vouvray). This beautifully tex- the apple flavors touched by almonds. Acidity and tured wine is full of fruit and minerality. Yellow- and a mineral edge add freshness and structure. Drink baked-apple flavors are tightly textured with acidity OTHER WHITE WINES now. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. and hints of English walnuts. Ripe while light, this abv: 12.5% Price: $30 wine is ready to drink. Misa Imports. —R.V. Saget la Perrière 2014 Château de la Mulon- abv: 12.5% Price: $19 93 nière L’Effet Papillon (Savennières). This is now a rich, mature Chenin Blanc. Its name indicates CRÉMANT DE LOIRE Saget la Perrière 2018 Marie de Beauregard that fruit comes from the famed Clos du Papillon 88 (Vouvray). With flavors of nuts and apri- vineyard of Savennières, giving the wine ripeness Domaine la Croix des Vainqueurs NV Brut cots, this ripe wine has generous fruits and an open and density. The acidity and quince flavors harmo- 90 (Crémant de Loire). A blend of half-and- texture. Well structured, ripe and fruity, it is ready nize well. Drink now. Taub Family Selections. —R.V. half Chenin and Chardonnay, this is deliciously to drink. Taub Family Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $34 crisp. Apple flavors come through the lively mousse abv: 13% Price: $22 to give an elegant wine. It is ready to drink. Misa Domaine de la Commanderie 2018 Cuvée Imports. —R.V. 90 Elégance (Chinon). In keeping with the style abv: 12% Price: $20 ANJOU of this producer’s white wines, this is rich, spicy and peppery from alcohol while also having bal- Gratien et Meyer NV Brut (Crémant de Xavier et Agnès Amirault 2018 Les Quarter- anced fruit and acidity. It comes from a small parcel 89 Loire). Citrus and crisp green-apple fruits 91 ons (Anjou). This rich, wood-aged wine is of old-vine Chenin Blanc on the estate. Drink now. give this wine an attractive cool character. Acidity, impressively structured, with ripe spice, almonds Jack Edwards Collection. —R.V. tangy orange-zest flavors and floral character come and an inspiring floral character. The round, supple abv: 14.5% Price: $19 together well. Drink now. Freixenet Mionetto USA. texture and yellow fruits are generous. Although —R.V. ready to drink, the wine will age at least until 2024. Domaine Gibault 2018 Sauvignon Blanc abv: 12% Price: $18 Vineyard Brands. —R.V. 90 (Touraine Chenonceaux). From the top abv: 13.5% Price: $37 vineyards of Chenonceaux, this wine is ripe and Domaine du Vieil Orme NV Cuvée Gabriel now mature. Balanced and stylish, it shows rounded 88 Chenin Blanc-Chardonnay (Crémant de Domaine de la Petite Roche 2019 Origine green fruits and acidity to match. Drink this wine Loire). A half-and-half blend of Chardonnay and 89 (Anjou). This soft and generous wine has now. Wine Universe Corp. —R.V. Chenin Blanc, this wine comes from Benoist family apple flavors and a pure line of acidity. The textured abv: 13% Price: $21 estate. Full of white fruits and nutty apple flavors,

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 the wine is crisply textured and refreshing. Drink linear, the wine is wonderful. Drink by 2040. Fred- wine’s nose. Very slowly, a pure note of zesty lemon now. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. comes through, illuminating the entire wine. Chalky abv: 12.5% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $NA density, coolness and rich, buffered stoniness give texture and concentration, made distinct by lemon Gratien et Meyer NV Brut Rosé (Crémant Albert Bichot 2018 Domaine Long-Depaquit freshness. The wine already has harmony and poise 88 de Loire). Lightly textured and with crisp 97 La Moutonne Monopole Grand Cru (Chablis). that will only increase over the years. It is elegant fruitiness, this is a pale-colored, elegant rosé. With A subtle nose on this wine references chalk, lanolin and enduring. Drink 2025–2040. Frederick Wild- its cool acidity and perfumed aftertaste, the bottling and lemon, drawing you in with a promise of depth. man & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. is ready to drink. Freixenet Mionetto USA. —R.V. Just as secretive, the palate presents pure lemon abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $18 essence from its depths of chalkiness. The wine is concentrated and bright, with effortless elegance. Domaine des Malandes 2019 Les Clos Grand De Valloie NV Paramour Brut (Crémant de We will have to wait for this profound yet restrained 97 Cru (Chablis). Scents of hazelnut, smoke 87 Loire). This lively wine has attractive citrus wine to reveal itself. Drink 2025–2040. Albert and molten wax blend on this wine’s complex nose. flavors and bright acidity. Crisp pear fruitiness goes Bichot USA. —A.K. A sense of pure lemon oil hovers above. There is with the tangy texture and squeeze of lemon at the abv: 13% Price: $237 something rich and concentrated here, edged with end. Drink now. Asgram LLC. —R.V. lemon that is anchored in chalk. Texture and cool- abv: 12% Price: $17 Albert Bichot 2018 Domaine Long-Depaquit ness is everything here, despite the roundness and 97 Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis). Beautiful sub- generosity. This wine is beautifully fresh and bright. Veuve Amiot NV Pol Clement Brut (Crémant tlety on this wine’s nose recalls smoky lemon, citrus Drink 2025–2040. Milton Road Trading Co. Edi- 82 de Loire). This soft, creamy wine has a soapy pith and molten candlewax. The palate also holds tors’ Choice. —A.K. texture that does no justice to green-apple flavors. these notions, bolstering that lemony waxiness with abv: 13% Price: $165 It is ready to drink. Wine Warehouse Imports. —R.V. thick, layered chalkiness and pithy, mouthwatering abv: 12% Price: $13 freshness. This is concentated and bold, offering Domaine Laroche 2018 Les Blanchots Grand energy and drive, with a contradictory heat emanat- 97 Cru (Chablis). Creaminess on the nose of ing from a cool core. A compelling wine, it needs to this wine comes with the richness of crème fraiche OTHER SPARKLING WINES calm down a little. Drink 2025–2040. Albert Bichot edged with lemon. A velvety palate enforces this USA. —A.K. bright, mellow creaminess, layering it with chalky Domaine de la Taille aux Loups NV Brut Tra- abv: 13% Price: $120 coolness pervaded with zesty lemon. The round- 89 dition (Touraine). The honeyed flavors of ness of 2018 is conserved in refreshing smoothness. Chenin Blanc sing in this attractive wine with its Albert Bichot 2018 Domaine Long-Depaquit Depth is already hinted at on the long, smooth and lemon acidity and pure, clean texture. This bottling 97 Vaudésirs Grand Cru (Chablis). Bright, tender chalky finish. Drink 2025–2045. Wilson Daniels is ready to drink. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. lemon and fragrant summer blossom give a sense Ltd. Cellar Selection. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 of delicacy to this wine’s chalky nose. The chalky, abv: 12.5% Price: $NA concentrated and textured palate is also pervaded Domaine la Croix des Vainqueurs NV Le by lemon zestiness that makes the mouth water. Domaine Louis Moreau 2017 Les Clos (Cha- 89 Bouchet Brut (Vouvray). Two years aging Yet the wine also has generosity and lovely balance. 97 blis). Hints of cool chalk and bright lemon after the disgorgement has just begun the maturing Richness and freshness are anchored in the stony show on this wine’s shy but fresh nose. A whisper process of this peach- and apple-flavored wine. It is depth of the wine, making it a joy to drink. Over the of smoke accompanies the stony, wet-chalk notes. zesty, the creamy mousse and acidity giving a final years the chalkiness will become even more pro- Chalkiness is even more pronounced on the palate, lift. Drink now. Misa Imports. —R.V. nounced. Drink by 2040. Albert Bichot USA. —A.K. pervading texture and body, but also referencing abv: 12.5% Price: $19 abv: 13% Price: $122 lemon zestiness and riper tangerine. Gorgeously fresh now, this alluring wine is certain to evolve. De Valloie NV Paramour Rosé Brut (Saumur). Chanson Père et Fils 2018 Les Clos Grand Cru Drink by 2040. Winebow. —A.K. 84 Softly textured and gently fruity, this is 97 (Chablis). This wine’s shy nose suggests abv: 13% Price: $NA lightly red-currant flavored wine. It is somewhat clear, molten wax. Waxy richness also plays on the unfocused, with a simple aftertaste. Drink now. concentrated palate where everything seems com- J. Moreau & Fils 2018 Les Clos Grand Cru Asgram LLC. —R.V. pact, bundled in richness and almost viscous. There 97 (Chablis). Only a slight quiver of smokiness abv: 12.5% Price: $17 is ripeness but it is measured, and freshness that is intrudes on the wet chalk and lemon nose of this rounded. This wine needs time to come into its own, wine. The palate is striking in its serenity and bal- with the chalky depth becoming even more evident. ance, an apt representation of the ripe 2018 vintage. BURGUNDY Drink 2025–2040. Vintus LLC. —A.K. It offers immense juiciness but somehow, the age- abv: 13% Price: $120 old limestone complexity takes the lead, affirming WHITE WINES that over the years, only depth will matter. None- Domaine Besson 2017 Les Clos Grand Cru theless, the wine has immense charm, smooth CHABLIS 97 (Chablis). The merest touch of tomato leaf texture and absolute freshness. Boisset Collection. precedes an intense nose of wet chalk. On the pal- —A.K. Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2018 ate of this wine, that chalkiness gets stronger and abv: 13% Price: $108 98 Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos Grand Cru projects depth and cool freshness that is augmented (Chablis). While the nose on this wine has a rich by lemony brightness. Elegant, expressive, fresh and Joseph Drouhin 2018 Drouhin Vaudon Bou- sense of creaminess and chalk, an insistent sense precise, it will become more and more of itself with 97 gros Grand Cru (Chablis). Toasted hazelnut, of juicy Mirabelle and ripe lemon breaks through bottle age. Drink by 2040. Multiple U.S. importers. chalk plus the merest hint of summer blossom and with sheer exuberance. Something fresh-faced and Editors’ Choice. —A.K. creaminess combine into a subdued but utterly honest in that fruit expression seems aware of the abv: 12.5% Price: $105 attractive nose on this wine. The palate has the depth and seriousness of the wine. Despite the pro- same sonorous and gentle texture, rich, layered and fundity, the wine conveys an eternal sense of joy. Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2018 giving a real sense of chalkiness. All is pervaded by Concentrated and generous, but also so cool and 97 Les Clos (Chablis). A certain restraint gov- lemon freshness. The ripeness of 2018 is beauti- erns the chalky, nutty and smoky nature of this fully managed here, manifesting itself in an elegant,

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BUYINGGUIDE smooth and cooling wine. Drink 2025–2045. Drey- to reveal more and more of itself. Drink by 2040. Domaine des Malandes 2019 Vaudésir Grand fus, Ashby & Co. Cellar Selection. —A.K. Albert Bichot USA. —A.K. 96 Cru (Chablis). Almost blossomy aromas abv: 13.5% Price: $110 abv: 13% Price: $109 precede pear, lemon and chalk notes on this wine’s nose. The palate presents a full-blown cloud of lem- Julien Brocard 2018 Les Preuses Grand Cru Clotilde Davenne 2017 Les Clos Grand Cru ony, smoky chalkiness on a textured, smooth body. 97 (Chablis). A yeasty, funky, earthy and still 96 (Chablis). A subdued note of wet chalk is A nutty echo of oak adds roundness. The finish is slightly reductive, flinty haze clouds this wine’s the first notion on this wine’s nose, which remains smooth, bright with lemon and long with chalk. nose for now. On the palate, however, three ele- subtle and smooth. The palate continues this deep Milton Road Trading Co. —A.K. ments combine for deliciousness. The wine offers sense of chalkiness, pervading and illuminating it abv: 13% Price: $165 the ripe juiciness of tangerine-tinged stone fruit, with vivid lemon. This wine is compact in body but cool, profound chalky depth and pervasive fresh- sonorous in stature, shining with freshness and Domaine Jean Collet & Fils 2018 Valmur ness. It has energy and animating verve. This little depth. Lovely now, it is certain to evolve and remain 96 Grand Cru (Chablis). The sonorous and genie in the bottle will work its magic over years. fresh. Drink now–2040. Bonhomie Wine Imports. slightly nutty richness of oak for now dominates this Drink by 2040. David Bowler Wine. —A.K. —A.K. wine’s nose with its toastiness. The palate counter- abv: 13% Price: $86 abv: 13% Price: $NA points that with rich and textured chalkiness, along with smooth, soothing creaminess and bright lemon Roland Lavantureux 2018 Vaudésir Grand Cru Domaine Besson 2017 Vaudésir Grand Cru freshness. This wine has elegance and harmony but 97 (Chablis). Chalk, wax, smoke and lemon are 96 (Chablis). An almost mossy green fresh- what really gets you is the vivid yet gentle freshness. intense on this wine’s nose, immediately conveying ness streams from the glass, implying gentle, herbal Drink now–2040 The Source. —A.K. that it is not about fruit but rather stone and place. savoriness. The palate of this wine offers the same abv: 13% Price: $NA The same goes for the palate where a dense texture effortless but insistent freshness. A flinty, stony redoubles on that chalk and smoke. But everything tone amid the chalk adds extra dimension, illu- Domaine Pinson 2018 Les Clos Grand Cru is brightened and pulled into delicious focus by minated by lemon freshness. The sense of chalki- 96 (Chablis). This wine’s open nose is an lemon freshness. This wine has poise, elegance and ness and cooling depth is persistent and strong, unusual but attractive combination of ripe, juicy subtlety. Drink 2022–2040. Kermit Lynch Wine just what you are looking for in this sort of wine. orchard fruit and cool chalkiness. The palate adds Merchant. —A.K. Drink now–2040. Multiple U.S. importers. Editors’ a rounded nutty dimension to the ripeness, with a abv: 13% Price: $NA Choice. —A.K. textured, smooth and rich core that allows glimpses abv: 13% Price: $95 of limestone depth. All the concentration is lightly Simonnet-Febvre 2018 Les Clos Grand Cru worn and for now still clothed in fruit. The real 97 (Chablis). For full review see page 3. Cellar Domaine Billaud-Simon 2018 Les Preuses stony, chalky depth will show itself more with every Selection. 96 Grand Cru (Chablis). Lemon, lemon flower year of bottle age. Drink by 2040. Skurnik Wines, abv: 13% Price: $95 and white summer blossom are like a gentle caress Inc. —A.K. on this wine’s nose. The palate has the same buff- abv: 13% Price: $80 William Fèvre 2018 Les Clos Grand Cru (Cha- ered gentleness and soft aroma, with a concentrated 97 blis). A subtle nose on this wine evokes midpalate that reveals texture and riper, juicier Jean Durup Père & Fils 2017 Vaudésirs Grand chalk made moist with ripe Amalfi lemon juiciness. stone fruit. A smooth finish offers long, lemon 96 Cru (Chablis). An initial, greenish inten- The palate plays these twin notions off each other in freshness. Drink by 2035. Frederick Wildman & sity on this wine’s nose recalls tomato leaf but this a subtle, fresh way, despite the concentration and Sons, Ltd. —A.K. notion is soon displaced by creaminess and zesty depth. This wine is cool and zesty at its core but abv: 13% Price: $NA lemon. On the palate the freshness receives an generous and lightfooted at the surface. Allow this extra dimension of chalkiness and texture, offering to calm down and come forth with its compelling Domaine Billaud-Simon 2018 Vaudésir smooth creaminess buffered by lemony brightness. core. Drink by 2040. Maisons and Domaines Hen- 96 Grand Cru (Chablis). Toasty, nutty richness This is a sinuous, cooling wine with stony depth and riot. —A.K. lays itself like a warming blanket over this wine’s resonance. Gorgeous now, it will reveal even more of abv: 13% Price: $160 nose, but underneath some ripe, lemon-edged itself. Drink now–2040. Linwood Wine and Spirits. stonefruit peeps through promisingly. The palate is —A.K. Albert Bichot 2018 Domaine Long-Depaquit still dominated by that toasty sheen, but it is only a abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 96 Les Blanchots Grand Cru (Chablis). This question of time before the vivid, concentrated ’s nose opens with subtle apple freshness fol- integrates this, making the wine more of a unit. It Joseph Drouhin 2018 Drouhin Vaudon Vau- lowed by lemon brightness. The palate immediately has rich texture, lovely depth, generous fruit and 96 désir Grand Cru (Chablis). For full review see shows rounded, chalky depth, filling the mouth with ripe freshness. Drink 2025–2040. Frederick Wild- page 3. chalky yeastiness that is brightened and cooled by man & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $110 lemon. The heat of 2018 is well managed in this abv: NA Price: $NA elegant wine, expressed in juicy ease but anchored Lamblin & Fils 2018 Les Clos Grand Cru in cooling depth, with a subtle whisper of oak. Drink Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2018 96 (Chablis). Initial, yeasty funk clouds bright 2025–2040. Albert Bichot USA. Editors’ Choice. 96 Valmur Grand Cru (Chablis). The appetizing lemon, chalk and Mirabelle notes on the nose of —A.K. nose on this wine offers creamy, nutty and lemon- this wine. The palate then moves that buffered, abv: 13% Price: $108 scented freshness. The palate adds supersmooth, textured chalkiness center stage. It offers generos- juicy ripeness that suggests yellow apple, juicy ity and beautiful concentration, with a roundness Albert Bichot 2018 Domaine Long-Depaquit Mirabelle and a touch of honey from the ripeness that speaks of lemon, stone, freshness and ripeness. 96 Les Preuses Grand Cru (Chablis). A touch of of 2018. There is wonderful freshness, however, and This wine is expressive, elegant and very long. V&N roast hazelnut lends richness to chalk and lemon on cool, chalky depth that turns this into a balanced, Cellars. —A.K. this wine’s evocative nose. The palate also combines rounded, mouthwatering wine with real dimension. abv: 13% Price: $130 richness and freshness, bedded on a concentrated The finish is zesty and long. Drink 2022–2040. core of cool chalkiness. Lemon oil shimmers around Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. William Fèvre 2018 Les Preuses Grand Cru the edges, as does a slightly pithy bitterness that —A.K. 96 (Chablis). Funky reduction still dominates makes the mouth water even more. This wine makes abv: 13% Price: $NA this wine’s nose with yeasty fumes, but under- you want to delve into its untold depth. It is certain neath bright lemon notes shine through. The palate

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 comes in with compact concentration and bundled Domaine Céline et Frédéric Gueguen 2018 ing. Drink slowly and let it happen to you. Skurnik but buffered energy. Drive and verve are packed in 95 Bougros Grand Cru (Chablis). A hazelnut- Wines, Inc. —A.K. 2018’s generosity, with a slender, bright core that like, slightly lemony creaminess feels like balm on abv: 13% Price: $40 conveys mouthwatering refreshment. The chalky this wine’s subtle nose. The palate also has a sooth- finish is long and fresh. Drink by 2035. Maisons and ing effect, with layered creaminess that is made Garnier et Fils 2017 Vaudésir Grand Cru (Cha- Domaines Henriot. —A.K. up of chalky depth, yeasty smoothness and gentle 95 blis). Nutty, toasty but subtle notes of oak abv: 13% Price: $135 pithiness. Despite the ripeness and slight warmth of come with a tinge of vanilla on this wine’s nose. the wine, it has a cooling streak and tons of concen- These are even stronger on the palate where evo- Albert Bichot 2019 Domaine Long-Depaquit tration. Drink by 2040. T. Elenteny Imports. —A.K. lution already shows, with distinct notes of dried 95 Montmains Premier Cru (Chablis). Chalk, abv: 13% Price: $NA fruit amid the chalkiness, wet earth tones and edge lemon and hazelnut make for a subtle aromatic trio of honey. Lemony freshness highlights all these ele- on this wine’s tender nose. The restrained palate Domaine Daniel Dampt & Fils 2019 Les Vail- ments, creating a lucid picture of concentration, adds real depth and resonance, emphasizing it with 95 lons Premier Cru (Chablis). Subtle hints of generosity and freshness. Drink by 2035. Martine’s a smooth, chalky texture wrapped in a smoky but reduction, wet chalk and yeasty funk play on this Wines. —A.K. revealing cloak. It is elegant and lasting. Drink by wine’s nose, promising depth and longevity. The abv: 13% Price: $NA 2040. Albert Bichot USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. palate reinforces these elements, adding a touch of abv: 13% Price: $68 lemon fresheness. This wine is about about stone J. Moreau & Fils 2018 Blanchot Grand Cru and site—fruit barely gets a look-in, but that is not 95 (Chablis). Notes of yeast, chalk, ripe Amalfi Chanson Père et Fils 2018 Les Preuses Grand necessarily a bad thing. It’s a wine for the long run. lemon peel and white summer blossom unite into a 95 Cru (Chablis). A sense of reduction on this Drink 2022–2040. T. Edward Wines Ltd. Cellar seductive, creamy nose on this wine. Toasty, oaky wine’s nose expresses itself as just-extinguished Selection. —A.K. smoke also hovers but is beautifully subdued. The candlesmoke. Beyond that, waxiness suggests phe- abv: 13% Price: $NA palate also encompasses these notions but focuses nolic richness. The rich palate is cloudlike in its on concentrated, stony depth and pithy texture. It’s generosity. It offers yeast, chalk, lemon, roundness Domaine Jean Collet & Fils 2018 Vaillons smooth, cool and bold. Give this elegant wine some and more of that phenolic, pleasantly bitter edge. 95 Premier Cru (Chablis). Notions of moss and time. Drink 2022–2040. Boisset Collection. —A.K. The finish is long and lasting. Drink by 2035. Vintus green pear peel are bound up in an aromatic citrus- abv: 13.5% Price: $108 LLC. —A.K. oil richness on this wine’s expressive nose. The abv: 12.5% Price: $110 palate comes in with the expected concentration. J. Moreau & Fils 2018 Mont de Milieu Premier This wine is energetic, yet anchored in cool depths 95 Cru (Chablis). This wine’s nose is a picture Chanson Père et Fils 2018 Montée de Ton- of limestone and chalk. It has a salty tang and the of subtlety. Hints of blossom, chalk, pear and lemon 95 nerre Premier Cru (Chablis). For full review allure of textured pear peel and citrus pith. Layers are so tender you feel you have to sniff again and see page 4. Cellar Selection. of fruit and stone play off each other, leaving us to again. The palate becomes a picture of smooth, abv: 13.5% Price: $75 witness and sense the pleasure. Drink by 2040. The gentle harmony and depth. Freshness, fruit, texture Source. Cellar Selection. —A.K. and chalky depth make for a gorgeous constellation. Domaine Alain Gautheron 2018 Bougros abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Boisset Collection. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. 95 Grand Cru (Chablis). Gentle oak on this abv: 13% Price: $53 wine’s nose carries a smoky toastiness. On the pal- Domaine Laroche 2018 Les Clos Grand Cru ate, that toastiness blends with a ripe lemon streak 95 (Chablis). Just a touch of smoke intrudes Jean-Marc Brocard 2019 Butteaux Premier that cuts right through the body with luminosity upon the lemon freshness and chalky depth appar- 95 Cru (Chablis). A hint of petrichor colors and freshness. Concentration and verve from that ent on this wine’s nose. A hint of passion fruit lends this wine’s lemony, bright nose with a stony allure. lemon zestiness counterpoints the essential creami- a tropical spin. The palate focuses on an almost The palate dresses this lemony richness in nutty, ness. It’s a rounded, sonorous wine. Drink 2025– candied lemon richness and concentration that suf- rounded smoothness without denying its mouth- 2040. Charles Neal Selections. —A.K. fuses itself with the chalky depth of the midpalate. watering essence. The midpalate is buffered, chalky abv: 13% Price: $108 This wine is textured, rounded and generous, yet and intense, with reverberating richness and fresh- highlighted by that lemon brightness. It’s a reso- ness that makes this wine a real joy. Multiple U.S. Domaine Alain Gautheron 2018 Valmur nant, rich wine that will evolve. Drink 2022–2040. importers. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. 95 Grand Cru (Chablis). Roast hazelnut, slight Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $47 smoke and toasty richness fill this wine’s nose right abv: 13% Price: $NA away. The palate is also full of smoky, resonant Jean-Marc Brocard 2018 Bougros Grand Cru richness that for now blankets the gentle, lemony Domaine Louis Moreau 2018 Vaillons Premier 95 (Chablis). Lemon oil, flint and creaminess texture and freshness of the concentrated midpal- 95 Cru (Chablis). Hint of wet walnut skin and unite on this wine’s subtle nose. The palate comes ate and smooth texture. This wine needs time but flint are subtle but distinct on the slightly reduced in with a rounded, creamy presence that combines will always have that oaky bent. Drink 2022–2040. nose of this wine. The palate immediately poses yeasty richness, textural charm and chalky depth Charles Neal Selections. —A.K. a thick layer of chalk with airy, salty depth. Fruit with the ripeness and freshness of lemon oil. This abv: 13% Price: $108 almost does not come into it. This wine is all about wine is concentrated, energetic and bold, channel- texture, soil, stone, coolness and salt. The concen- ing its drive towards a lasting finish that lets lemon Domaine Céline et Frédéric Gueguen 2018 tration and vividness are intense. Winebow. Edi- and chalk speak clearly. Drink 2025–2045. Mul- 95 Blanchot Grand Cru (Chablis). A touch of tors’ Choice. —A.K. tiple U.S. importers. —A.K. fresh, ripe lemon zest is all that peeps though on abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $70 this wine’s shy and closed nose. More air reveals lovely hints of petrichor and chalk. The palate is Domaine Vincent Dampt 2019 Côte de Léchet Jean-Marc Brocard 2018 Valmur Grand Cru rounded and textured. Yeastiness and chalky depth 95 Premier Cru (Chablis). Ripe lemon peel, a 95 (Chablis). Reductive smokiness still clings align themselves to bright, ripe lemon, and the lem- whisper of elderflower and cool, chalky depth create to lemon and yeast notes on this wine’s nose. The ony chalkiness lasts beautifully. Drink by 2040. T. an inviting nose on this wine. The palate has a simi- palate has smoky allure from oak, with a textured Elenteny Imports. —A.K. larly light, aromatic touch on its smooth texture, midpalate that speaks of yeast, citrus pith and abv: 13% Price: $NA but also hints at depth and beautiful length. This depth. Chalky concentration spreads cooling fresh- wine is sinuous, smooth, concentrated and satisfy- ness despite the year’s ripeness. While this wine

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BUYINGGUIDE is rounded and sonorous, it is also vivid and fresh, luscious fruit with vivid freshness. The wine offers Chanson Père et Fils 2018 Montmains Pre- with a lemony, chalky and textured finish that lasts. texture and brightness as well as nuance and preci- 94 mier Cru (Chablis). Little escapes from this Drink 2022–2040. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. sion. It’s balanced and lasting. Albert Bichot USA. wine’s closed nose, despite vigorous swirling. A abv: 13.5% Price: $70 —A.K. mere hint of nuttiness appears and is also present abv: 13% Price: $68 on the concentrated palate. The body is rich and Lamblin & Fils 2018 Vaudésir Grand Cru (Cha- smooth, pervaded by chalky coolness despite the 95 blis). A slightly funky nose on this wine Albert Bichot 2019 Domaine Long-Depaquit generous pear fruit. Long and rounded, the finish mixes yeastiness, lemon and earthiness but also 94 Montée de Tonnerre Premier Cru (Chablis). A reveals chalky depth and some creaminess. Vintus comes with a lift of freshness. The palate conveys tinge of smoke resonates on the chalky nose of this LLC. —A.K. lemony, creamy purity, with a free-flowing, smooth wine. The palate plays a similar game, with a chalky, abv: 13.5% Price: $65 joyousness that seems bedded in chalky profun- cool depth and smooth, pithy texture, contoured dity. Sonorous ease belies the depth of this elegant with freshness and subtle, oaky smoke. This refined Clotilde Davenne 2018 Fourchaume Premier wine with astonishing, lemony length. Drink 2022– and elegant combination will stand the test of time. 94 Cru (Chablis). Only a slight notion of wet 2040. V&N Cellars. —A.K. Drink by 2040. Albert Bichot USA. —A.K. chalk escapes from this wine’s closed nose. It gives abv: 13% Price: $130 abv: 13% Price: $73 a little more sense of lemon on the smooth, rounded palate.Pervaded by freshness, it is all about texture Louis Jadot 2018 Les Clos Grand Cru (Cha- Albert Bichot 2018 Domaine Long-Depaquit rather than fruit. Layers of chalkiness and yeast cre- 95 blis). Vivid, creamy, lemony chalkiness 94 Les Vaucopins Premier Cru (Chablis). Hay- ate a mouthfilling but cool and fresh midpalate. It’s dominates this wine’s nose. On the palate, these flower blends with fresh moss on this wine’s gentle subtle, supple and long. Bonhomie Wine Imports. notions are joined by subtle, rounded nuttiness and nose. The palate adds ripe lemon freshness that is —A.K. a sense of generosity and ripeness. Real concentra- mouthfilling, smooth and textured with yeasty rich- abv: 13% Price: $NA tion and texture at the core has chalkiness and a ness that is aligned to chalky depth. This is rounded pithy tang that makes the mouth water. The finish but fresh, ripe but toned. Albert Bichot USA. —A.K. Clotilde Davenne 2017 Blanchots Grand is long and insistent. Drink 2022–2040. Kobrand. abv: 13% Price: $68 94 Cru (Chablis). Buttery richness seeps into —A.K. this wine’s chalky nose and carries onto the pal- abv: 13% Price: $NA Albert Bichot 2019 Domaine Long-Depaquit ate, which shows even more chalk and creaminess. 94 Vaillons Premier Cru (Chablis). Mirabelle, Bright lemon pervades the mellow richness but Simonnet-Febvre 2018 Preuses Grand Cru yeast, chalk and slight nuttiness on this wine’s nose chalkiness is already out in force and will become 95 (Chablis). Scents of green apple and sum- promise generosity on the palate. This duly follows, even more deliciously pronounced. Ready now, the mer blossom play above the chalky nose of this pervaded by ripe lemon zestiness. Although still wine is certain to evolve. Drink 2020–2035. Bon- wine, promising a gentle touch. The palate is con- slightly funky with yeast in places, the wine is lively, homie Wine Imports. —A.K. centrated and buffered with layers of chalkiness and profound and smooth. Allow it to come into its own abv: 13% Price: $NA yeast, all brightened by lemon. Texture, chalk and and drink 2022–2040. Albert Bichot USA. —A.K. roundness are the chief markers here that will serve abv: 13% Price: $58 Domaine Alain Gautheron 2019 L’Homme the wine well for the future. Drink by 2040. Louis 94 Mort Premier Cru (Chablis). Creamy hazel- Latour Inc. —A.K. Albert Bichot 2018 Domaine Long-Depaquit nut and subtle smoke wrap themselves around ripe, abv: 13% Price: $NA 94 Montée de Tonnerre Premier Cru (Chablis). bright lemon notes on the alluring nose of this wine. Lifted and ethereal notes of dried and fresh lemon The palate presents a fuller picture of those same William Fèvre 2018 Bougros Côte de Bou- peel dominate this wine’s open nose. On the pal- notions: smoke, lemon, creaminess and nuttiness. 95 guerots Grand Cru (Chablis). Hazelnut- ate, the focus shifts to a cool, intense, chalky core A subtle texture buffers but also intensifies the like smokiness folds itself around lemon notes on around which freshness and juiciness are bundled. lemon freshness that reverberates throughout the this wine’s creamy nose. The palate comes in with This is concentrated and bright, carrying a cool, body. It’s a taut but rich and resonant wine. Drink rounded pear, portraying the juicy ripeness of 2018 stony undertone. Drink 2025–2040. Albert Bichot 2022–2040. Charles Neal Selections. Cellar Selec- but grounding it in layered, yeasty, chalky and USA. Cellar Selection. —A.K. tion. —A.K. smoky depth. Oaky nuttiness adds extra dimension abv: 13% Price: $73 abv: 13% Price: $58 while lemon freshness makes for luminous length. Drink by 2045. Maisons and Domaines Henriot. Camille & Laurent Schaller 2019 Vau de Domaine Alain Gautheron 2018 Les Preuses —A.K. 94 Vey Premier Cru (Chablis). A subtle hint of 94 Grand Cru (Chablis). The smoky, rich and abv: 13% Price: $140 wet chalk plays on this wine’s otherwise shy nose, nutty embrace of oak for now has a tight hold over promising depth and slenderness. A hint of green the nose and palate of this wine. The ripe, round William Fèvre 2018 Bougros Grand Cru pear adds freshness. The palate comes in with body counters the oak with a smooth, yeasty and 95 (Chablis). Cooling, mossy chalkiness plays smooth, measured tenderness pervaded by a lovely chalky texture and vivid lemon freshness. There is on this wine’s nose, despite the heat of 2018. The sense of depth. Thomas Calder Selections. —A.K. concentration, generosity and texture. This wine palate then displays juicy roundness in the form abv: 12.5% Price: $38 still has to find its center but has all the elements of ripe, yellow pear pervading chalky depth. Rich to age well. Drink 2022–2040. Charles Neal Selec- lemon-peel notes create contour and add mouthwa- Chanson Père et Fils 2018 Fourchaumes tions. —A.K. tering brightness to this concentrated, understated 94 Premier Cru (Chablis). Subtlety marks out abv: 13% Price: $108 wine that comes with subdued but distinct power. this wine’s reticent nose. The palate then sweeps Drink 2025–2045. Maisons and Domaines Henriot. in with taut but juicy freshness, adding pear juici- Domaine Alain Gautheron 2018 Mont de —A.K. ness to that cool, lemon drive. It has concentration 94 Milieu Premier Cru (Chablis). Yeast, ripe abv: 13.5% Price: $130 and a pithy texture that spells depth, coolness and Mirabelle and juicy, golden lemon come together harmony, despite the heat of the vintage. The wine with juicy ripeness on this wine’s inviting nose. The Albert Bichot 2019 Domaine Long-Depaquit is really well done and properly long. Vintus LLC. palate adds lovely texture to this roundness, offer- 94 Les Vaucopins Premier Cru (Chablis). Ripe —A.K. ing pithiness edged by ripe lemon zestiness. It has Mirabelle notes come with the merest hint of pas- abv: 12% Price: $70 concentration and restrained power. The energy of sion fruit before they are swept up in smoky rich- ness. The palate of this wine combines ripe, almost

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 this wine needs to calm. Drink 2025–2040. Charles slightly bitter, pithy element on the textured pal- wine is incisive, unfrilly, bold and totally worth lay- Neal Selections. Cellar Selection. —A.K. ate that emphasizes the chalkiness. This wine is not ing down until it rounds out. Drink 2025–2040. abv: 13% Price: $51 about fruit but about texture, yeast and depth. It’s Milton Road Trading Co. —A.K. an understated, honest take on 2019 Chablis with abv: 13% Price: $72 Domaine Alain Gautheron 2018 Vielles gorgeous length and saltiness. T. Edward Wines Ltd. 94 Vignes Montmains Premier Cru (Chablis). A —A.K. Domaine Jean Collet & Fils 2018 Butteaux friendly, inviting nose combines fresh, ripe Mira- abv: 13% Price: $NA 94 Premier Cru (Chablis). This wine’s closed belle and bright, golden lemon and pits them against nose gives mere glimpses of shy citrus. Concentra- wet chalk. The palate has that same sunny ripeness Domaine Daniel Dampt & Fils 2019 Four- tion and richness become apparent on the palate via but is anchored in a soothing lemony chalkiness. 94 chaume Premier Cru (Chablis). An edge of a ripe but zesty core of fruit that is smooth but dense This depth resonates and sends lasting, clean and warmth and seeming sunshine joins the fresh lem- in texture. There is a sense of fruit resting around a precise freshness amidst 2018’s ripeness. Drink by ony nose of this wine. The palate comes in with core of limestone depth. Lemon-tinged smoothness 2040. Charles Neal Selections. Cellar Selection. roundness and texture, suggesting mellow apple adds appeal at the end. The Source. —A.K. —A.K. flesh that is toned with lemon brightness and has abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $48 gorgeous depth. Profundity is set off by spiky lemon freshness for enlivening contrast. T. Edward Wines Domaine Jean Dauvissat Père et Fils 2018 Domaine Besson 2018 Mont de Milieu Pre- Ltd. —A.K. 94 Fourchaume Premier Cru (Chablis). Sun- 94 mier Cru (Chablis). Ripe, fresh greengage abv: 13% Price: $NA dried hay, Mirabelle plum and a touch of dried yar- notes appear on the aromatic nose of this wine, row make for an aromatic nose on this wine. The which is tinged with lemon, lime and a richer note Domaine de Vauroux 2017 Bougros Grand palate comes in with intense concentration that of candlewax. The palate continues in this compact, 94 Cru (Chablis). Aromas of melted butter and adds dried lemon zest to the aromatic mix, propel- almost oily vein. A concentrated body speaks elo- lemon yogurt dominate the nose on this wine with ling the wine forward with energy and freshness. quently of the 2018 ripeness, but more in terms of milky richness. On the palate this creaminess is There is still depth and precision to be revealed. texture than fruit since everything is brightened by joined by pillowy yeast and chalky depth, contrast- Drink 2025–2040. Fass Selections. —A.K. a tinge of lime. Texture and freshness meld to pres- ing richness with stony restraint. The finish is long abv: 13.5% Price: $50 ent a harmonious and subtle wine. Multiple U.S. and chalky fresh, dominated by bright lemon and importers. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. more yogurt notes. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —A.K. Domaine Jean-Claude Courtault 2018 Val- abv: 12.5% Price: $50 abv: 13% Price: $NA 94 mur Grand Cru (Chablis). Ripe green and yellow apple freshness fills this wine’s nose. The Domaine Billaud-Simon 2018 Mont de Milieu Domaine des Malandes 2019 Fourchaume palate has that same sense of juicy ripeness and 94 Premier Cru (Chablis). This wine’s subtle 94 Premier Cru (Chablis). There’s almost lime- generosity. Freshness is ever-present and rounded, nose reveals hints of lemon, hay and chalk. These like freshness on the vivid nose of this wine, even emanating from some cooler, chalkier depth. The carry over onto the palate where they entwine in though it remains subdued. The palate also has this midpalate texture is creamy and smooth, and pithi- concentrated harmony. There is focus on generosity, cool, understated notion, already giving glimpses ness gives concentration. It’s a generous but well- marked out by the pithy, chalky midpalate texture of a chalky hinterland. This wine is concentrated, proportioned wine. Drink by 2040. Banville Wine and lemony brightness, despite the hot conditions taut, focused and fresh in a very unfrilly, honest Merchants. —A.K. of this vintage. It’s a stony, elegant wine with lovely way. Drink by 2040. Milton Road Trading Co. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $105 depth. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $86 abv: 13% Price: $NA Domaine Laroche 2018 Vieilles Vignes Domaine des Malandes 2019 Mont de Milieu 94 Fourchaumes Premier Cru (Chablis). Hints Domaine Charly Nicolle 2018 Mont de Milieu 94 Premier Cru (Chablis). The nose on this of hazelnut and lemon yogurt play on this wine’s 94 Premier Cru (Chablis). This wine’s subtle wine has a nutty, smoky edge of oak, enticing with generous nose. The body adds rounded, pithy and nose combines ripeness and freshness in its twin a suggestion of dried walnut leaf. A rounded palate yeasty midpalate texture that matches the fullness. notions of greengage and lemon. Slight smokiness reveals layers of chalky depth, lemony intensity, Zestiness lends focus, suggesting that the wine still leads richer candlewax that continues onto the yeasty richness and a kiss of smoky oak. It is the has to find its chalky center, which is undoubt- concentrated, smooth and almost oily palate. It is lemon that sets the tone with its unflinching hon- edly there. Drink 2024–2040. Wilson Daniels Ltd. this rich texture rather than the fruit flavors that esty. Drink by 2040. Milton Road Trading Co. Edi- —A.K. depicts the generosity of 2018 here, as well as exu- tors’ Choice. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA berant juiciness. Cool, chalky depth lends freshness abv: 13% Price: $87 and poise. Serge Doré Selections. —A.K. Domaine Louis Moreau 2018 Vau Ligneau abv: 13% Price: $85 Domaine des Malandes 2019 Montmains 94 Premier Cru (Chablis). The gentle nose on 94 Premier Cru (Chablis). Nutty resonance this wine combines the slight flintiness of reduc- Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2018 mixes with chalky, lemony notes on the nose of this tion with ethereal dried yarrow. The palate is multi- 94 Vaillon Premier Cru Cuvée Guy Moreau (Cha- wine, implying evenness and smooth texture. The dimensional with yeast, lemon, chalk and saltiness. blis). Lemon, petrichor and subtle chalkiness play palate indeed provides textured evenness but cuts Subtle texture and scented freshness are everything on this wine’s subtle nose. The palate adds ripe, it with lemon brightness. This wine is bold, alive here, despite the ripeness of 2018 Winebow. Edi- juicy pear fruit but focuses on freshness and cool- and fresh. It still needs time to find its center, but tors’ Choice. —A.K. ing, soothing chalky depth. Fruit and stone are promises to become glorious. Drink 20225–2040. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA caught in a lovely pas-de-deux and give this wine Milton Road Trading Co. Cellar Selection. —A.K. charm, freshness and length. Frederick Wildman & abv: 13% Price: $82 Domaine Louis Moreau 2017 Valmur Grand Sons, Ltd. —A.K. 94 Cru (Chablis). A funky, earthy tinge on the abv: 13.8% Price: $NA Domaine des Malandes 2019 Vau de Vey Pre- nose of this wine also references fresh chalkiness 94 mier Cru (Chablis). Slightly funky yeastiness and something lactic. The palate wipes any funki- Domaine Daniel Dampt & Fils 2019 Beau- plays on this wine’s nose before pear peel, chalk and ness away with spankingly fresh, ripe and juicy 94 roy Premier Cru (Chablis). Chalky depth lemon become apparent. The palate proceeds in a stone fruit that is pervaded by zesty citrus. An and yeasty funk take turns on this wine’s subtle textured vein, presenting pithiness, chalk, yeast and attractive texture already reveals chalkiness and a nose to draw you in. These notions are joined by a pear peel pulled into focus by bright lemon. This core of mouthwatering pithiness. Lovely now (but

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BUYINGGUIDE decant), the wine will show more of its stony depth Domaine Sébastien Dampt 2019 Les Beu- light notions of ripe Mirabelle on this wine’s nose. with bottle age. Drink now–2035. Winebow. —A.K. 94 gnons Premier Cru (Chablis). In this wine, Gentleness also defines the palate where well-cap- abv: 13% Price: $NA the twin notions of green pear peel and wet chalk tured ripeness is met with smoothest texture and are imbued with subtle, scented florality. The palate a little smokiness, all illuminated by pure lemon Domaine Nathalie & Gilles Fevre 2018 Les reprises the same gentle, smooth and scented theme freshness. This wine has a lovely balance and much 94 Preuses Grand Cru (Chablis). There is some- of lemon, pear and blossom bedded on a yeasty, elegance. Boisset Collection. —A.K. thing ripe and friendly about this wine’s nose, shin- chalky midpalate. This wine is harmonious, fresh, abv: 13% Price: $53 ing with lemony charm and ripe vivaciousness. The layered and resonant, with a salty fillip on the fin- palate has the same welcoming bent, but adds a ish. The Wine House. —A.K. J. Moreau & Fils 2018 Valmur Grand Cru (Cha- cooler, sleeker dimension. It offers a concentrated, abv: 13% Price: $NA 94 blis). The richness of oak expresses itself as smooth body, a gentle, chalky texture and zesty the scent of roasted hazelnut on this wine’s nose. lemon ripeness. The wine is elegant and under- Domaine Sébastien Dampt 2019 Vaillons Smooth and rounded, the palate can handle the stated. Wine Agencies Inc. —A.K. 94 Premier Cru (Chablis). Scented florality hov- oaky resonance that sets the tone. An edge of honey abv: 13% Price: $78 ers above green pear and ripe lemon-zest notes on is balanced by lemony brightness. Concentration this wine’s inviting nose. The palate puts its bun- and freshness signal that this wine will age well. Domaine Pascal Bouchard 2018 Les Vieilles dled force towards that lemon zestiness that per- Drink 2025–2040. Boisset Collection. —A.K. 94 Vignes Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis). The vades the wine with purity and freshness. A yeasty abv: 13.5% Price: $108 rich, almost mealy scent of lemon yogurt makes for texture on the body counters the lemon and buffers a milky nose on this wine. Richness continues as the crispness. The wine is intense and bright. The J. Moreau & Fils 2018 Vaucopin Premier Cru creaminess on the smooth and ripe palate. Yogurty, Wine House. —A.K. 94 (Chablis). Subtle pear, hazelnut and lemon textured generosity remains a central feature tex- abv: 13% Price: $NA shimmer on this wine’s shy nose. The palate brings turally but is countered by a streak of ripe lemon. in roundness and ripeness, think luscious Mirabelle It’s a mellow wine with spiky, welcome freshness. Domaine Vincent Dampt 2019 Vaillons with a touch of honey. Juicy and ripe lemon per- Drink by 2040. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. 94 Premier Cru (Chablis). Yeasty funk on this vades all with its freshness while a smooth texture abv: 13% Price: $100 wine’s otherwise shy nose speaks of youth and com- adds a balmy background. The wine has lovely har- plexity. The palate comes in with vivid freshness mony and balance. Boisset Collection. —A.K. Domaine Pinson 2018 La Forêt Premier Cru that pervades a creamy, concentrated and layered abv: 13% Price: $53 94 (Chablis). This wine’s shy nose gives away midpalate that has a pithy, mouthwatering texture only mossy hints of coolness amid a sensation of and real focus. The finish is alive and lasting, with Jean-Luc Aegerter 2018 Vaudésir Grand Cru lemon. The slender but concentrated palate adds a pure lemon freshness. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. 94 (Chablis). Vivid notes of green pear peel rich, chalky texture of stony depth. There is salti- abv: 13% Price: $40 are pervaded by chalkiness and lemon ripeness on ness too, and cool freshness despite the ripeness of this wine’s open, intense nose. The palate follows 2018. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. Garnier et Fils 2018 Fourchaume Premier with more juiciness and abundant chalkiness that abv: 13% Price: $50 94 Cru (Chablis). Earth, flint, yeast and lemon emphasizes the yeasty yexture. Lemon freshness gather on the reduced nose of this wine, signal- remains throughout, giving contour to the rounded, Domaine Pinson 2018 Montée de Tonnerre ing freshness and layered complexity. The palate smooth body. Misa Imports. —A.K. 94 Premier Cru (Chablis). Mossy, lemony cool- sweeps in with the rounded, ripe juiciness of Mira- abv: 13.5% Price: $100 ness emanates from the glass, promising scented belle plums. All the fruit is caught in a web of pithy, freshness while the tiniest vestige of reduction still flinty and salty layers of yeast and chalk. An ener- Jean-Marc Brocard 2019 Montmains Premier has a flinty tang. A picture of texture, chalk and getic core of cool freshness propels everything for- 94 Cru (Chablis). A slight yeasty, lactic funk brightness, the palate of this wine conveys cooling, ward and makes this wine vivid. Martine’s Wines. plays on this wine’s otherwise fresh, lemony and smooth depth. The harmonious finish is surpris- Editors’ Choice. —A.K. vivacious nose. The palate adds lots of juicy fruit, ingly rounded Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA think ripe, red-cheeked Mirabelle tinged with zesty, abv: 13% Price: $50 limey greenness. Concentrated and bold, the body Garnier et Fils 2018 Mont de Milieu Premier reveals depth underneath all this fruit, harboring Domaine Pinson 2018 Montmain Premier 94 Cru (Chablis). Reduction still clouds this coolness and verve. It’s a compelling wine. Multiple 94 Cru (Chablis). A touch of greengage and wine’s fresh nose but at the same time holds prom- U.S. importers. —A.K. lemon play alongside wet chalk on this wine’s nose. ise for the future. The smooth palate adds deep, lay- abv: 14% Price: $36 The palate then spreads out across the mouth like ered yeastiness that has coolness and freshness at a blanket of chalky coolness, tinged with lemon its core. Insistent saltiness is enticing on the sinous, Jean-Marc Brocard 2019 Vau de Vey Premier freshness. There is concentration, vivaciousness chalky palate. Drink by 2040 Martine’s Wines. Cel- 94 Cru (Chablis). A lifted but guarded sense of and a graceful stony and chalky elegance. The fin- lar Selection. —A.K. lemon zest plays on this wine’s nose, forthright at ish reveals richer creaminess that sits well with the abv: 13% Price: $NA one moment, restrained the next. The palate chan- chalk and lemon. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. nels concentrated but creamy lemon peel, mouth- abv: 13% Price: $50 Garnier et Fils 2018 Montmains Premier watering in its frankness but buffered by lovely 94 Cru (Chablis). A touch of reduction on this chalkiness. Lemony limestone freshness rings long Domaine Sébastien Dampt 2019 Côte de wine’s subtle nose makes itself felt as a hit of wet after the last sip. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. 94 Léchet Premier Cru (Chablis). A shy nose walnut and flint. Flintiness with a pleasant edge of abv: 14.5% Price: $36 on this wine allows just a mere notion of yeasti- walnut-skin bitterness carries over to the palate, ness despite much swirling. On the palate, the zesty, where some warmth speaks of the ripeness of the Jean-Marc Brocard 2019 Vaulorent Premier pithy lemon texture becomes apparent, layered onto 2018 vintage. At its core, this wine is concentrated 94 Cru (Chablis). Mossiness accompanies pear wet chalkiness. A quiet intensity at work here still and intensely salty, edged with freshness and oh so and lemon notes on this wine’s nose along with a needs to evolve. Keep this bottle in reserve and moreish. Martine’s Wines. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. lift of dried hayflower. The palate adds ripe round- wake it up when it is ready. It will be intense, salty abv: 13% Price: $NA ness and intense, multidimensional creaminess that and textured. Drink 2022–2040. The Wine House. takes in yeast, smokiness and chalkiness alongside Cellar Selection. —A.K. J. Moreau & Fils 2018 Montmains Premier Cru abv: 13% Price: $NA 94 (Chablis). Subtle smoke wraps itself around

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 the intense lemon. Drink 2022–2040. Multiple U.S. dow dressing. With its depth, the wine expresses Albert Bichot 2018 Domaine Long-Depaquit importers. Cellar Selection. —A.K. the vintage beautifully. Drink by 2040. Maisons and 93 Montmains Premier Cru (Chablis). Pear peel abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Domaines Henriot. Editors’ Choice. —A.K. and lemon-rind notions on the nose of this wine abv: NA Price: $75 have a slight overtone of passion fruit, signalling Lamblin & Fils 2019 Fourchaume Premier Cru juiciness and ripeness. The palate presents a con- 94 (Chablis). Touches of hazelnut and cream William Fèvre 2018 Vaulorent Premier Cru centrated, textured body that unites power and round out zesty, almost spiky lemon notes on the 94 (Chablis). Green pear freshness edged ripeness, expressed by some warmth on the mid- animated nose of this wine. That same citrus inten- with lemon marks out this wine’s nose. The pear is palate. This is mitigated by the grippy texture that sity is apparent on the textured, pithy and textured rounder and riper on the palate but that freshness lends harmony alongside ripe lemon freshness. This palate, pulsating with freshness on this rounded but remains, leading to cooling, concentrated and chalky wine will benefit from bottle age, so drink 2024– toned wine. The finish is long, chalky and intense. depth. It has elegance and lasting freshness—a tri- 2040. Albert Bichot USA. —A.K. V&N Cellars. —A.K. umph in 2018. Enjoy through 2040. Maisons and abv: 13% Price: $68 abv: 13% Price: $60 Domaines Henriot. Cellar Selection. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $100 Clotilde Davenne 2018 Vaucoupin Premier Louis Jadot 2018 Fourchaume Premier Cru 93 Cru (Chablis). Ripe lemon, chalk and sun- 94 (Chablis). Nutty smoke and flinty reduc- Alain Geoffroy 2018 Vau-Ligneau Premier Cru dried hay make for an aromatic and enticing nose on tion combine enticingly on this wine’s expressive 93 (Chablis). Hay and a hint of yeasty funk play this wine. The palate has the rounded sunniness of nose. The palate is concentrated and even more around lemon notes on the nose of this wine. The 2018 but concentration and freshness provide con- flinty, with a pervasive saltiness that makes the palate has salty savoriness that joins with the lem- tour, aided by the textured, yeasty midpalate. The mouth water. Hazelnut richness from oak seems to ony, yeasty, chalky layers of the midpalate. It shows finish is long and precise, with coolness emanating intensify the savory depth. Gorgeous now, the wine intensity, juiciness, balance and freshness on the from chalky depth. Bonhomie Wine Imports. —A.K. will become even more itself over the coming years. finish. Baron Francois Ltd. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA Drink by 2040. Kobrand. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $50 Corinne et Pierre Grossot 2018 Les Fourneaux Albert Bichot 2019 Domaine Long-Depaquit 93 Premier Cru (Chablis). Subtle but insistent William Fèvre 2018 Fourchaume Premier Cru 93 Beugnons Premier Cru (Chablis). Pear peel, lemon zest is all that the shy nose on this wine 94 (Chablis). Lemon oil subtly pervades the slight smoke, yeast and lemon make for a most appe- reveals. Creamy fullness and softness on the pal- mossy nose on this wine with richness and generos- tizing nose on this wine. The palate has immense ate counterbalances the lemony brightness and sits ity. The juicy palate adds zestiness that plays above elan and flow, with juiciness that references ripe well with the rounded generosity of the vintage. The rounded, smooth yeastiness. Towards the finish this Mirabelle and even a touch of honey. This liveliness, concentrated body has enough freshness to come tapers towards limestone depth, ending with a long however, is anchored in lovely texture that reaches out balanced and supple. VOS Selections. —A.K. echo of lemon. Lovely now, the wine will show its as deep as it does high. Albert Bichot USA. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA truer self with bottle age. Drink 2022–2040. Mai- abv: 13% Price: $65 sons and Domaines Henriot. —A.K. Corinne et Pierre Grossot 2018 Vaucoupin abv: 13% Price: $80 Albert Bichot 2019 Domaine Long-Depaquit 93 Premier Cru (Chablis). The initial whiff of 93 Les Lys Premier Cru (Chablis). Lemony chalk- this wine combines chalk, passion fruit and a milky William Fèvre 2018 Montée de Tonnerre Pre- iness is faint on this wine’s shy nose. The palate floral overtone. The palate wraps these notions in 94 mier Cru (Chablis). Subtle aromatics com- paints a fuller picture, using the broad strokes of fine, ripe lemon zestiness, focusing on midpal- bine pear peel, creamy candlewax and green citrus lemon to reveal brightness, depth and chalky cool- ate texture rather than fruit. The body is rounded into an alluring, fresh nose on this wine. The palate ness. This wine still needs to knit its divergent parts and yeasty, with a lovely, lemony, chalky depth that comes in with rounded ripeness. It redoubles that together but all the elements are there. Wait for lends coolness. The finish is all bright, long, sooth- sense of creaminess that rests on a yeasty, billow- this. Drink 2023–2035. Albert Bichot USA. —A.K. ing lemon. VOS Selections. —A.K. ing texture that is backed by bright lemon. The abv: 13% Price: $65 abv: 13% Price: $NA interplay between freshness, ripeness and texture creates harmony. Lovely chalkiness appears on the Albert Bichot 2018 Domaine Long-Depaquit Domaine Alain Gautheron 2018 Vaillons finish. Maisons and Domaines Henriot. —A.K. 93 Beugnons Premier Cru (Chablis). Notions of 93 Premier Cru (Chablis). Lemon pith and zest abv: 13% Price: $80 lemon, hayflower and lifted, dried lemon peel make spread subtle, fresh but ripe perfume on this wine’s for an aromatic, almost heady nose on this wine. nose. More air brings a notion of ripe Mirabelle William Fèvre 2018 Montmains Premier Cru The palate is concentrated and even bold. This big, plum. The palate also shows ripeness but likewise 94 (Chablis). Ripe lemon notes on this wine’s full wine shows muscle and tone, but in an elegant is pervaded by aromatic, rounded lemon brightness. nose have hints of Mirabelle plum and lemon-peel fashion. Power is anchored in stony depth that lends Underneath a layer of grounding, cooling chalkiness waxiness. The palate is rounded and smooth, but cool freshness. This will be even better with bottle lingers. Charles Neal Selections. —A.K. shot through with ripe lemon zest. This wine is age. Drink 2024–2040. Albert Bichot USA. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $48 fruitier and richer than expected, but buffered by a abv: 13% Price: $65 chalky texture that hints at untold depth. The fin- Domaine Alain Gautheron 2018 Vaucoupin ish reveals the full dimension of the wine. Drink Albert Bichot 2018 Domaine Long-Depaquit 93 Premier Cru (Chablis). A subtle hint of hazel- 2022–2040 Maisons and Domaines Henriot. Cellar 93 Les Lys Premier Cru (Chablis). Ripe Amalfi nut plays on the lemon and chalk nose of this wine. Selection. —A.K. lemon peel shines subtly on this wine’s friendly Rounded and full, the palate is edged with a slight abv: 13.5% Price: $70 nose. On the concentrated palate that lemon note but ripe lemon zestiness that frames a textured turns to zestiness, joined by a fuller, more textured midpalate that displays notions of yeast and chalk. William Fèvre 2018 Vaillons Premier Cru notion of lemon peel. Cool, chalky concentration The finish is rounded but clean and long. Charles 94 (Chablis). This wine’s intriguing nose com- at the core of the wine lends soothing, intriguing Neal Selections. —A.K. bines rich candlewax with bright lemon oil. The pal- depth. Despite the rounded richness there is ample, abv: 13% Price: $48 ate is rounded and smooth, with buffered freshness lasting freshness. Albert Bichot USA. —A.K. on the midpalate. It is here that the sense of chalky abv: 13% Price: $65 Domaine Alain Gautheron 2018 Vieilles depth comes in, conveying a stony, austere hinter- 93 Vignes (Chablis). The shy nose of this wine land for which 2018’s generous fruit is mere win- offers subtle lemon notions. Bearing out the ripe-

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BUYINGGUIDE ness of the 2018 vintage, the palate has an emol- Domaine des Malandes 2019 Côte de Léchet engaging, textured and fresh Chablis that tells the lient and generous roundness that is nonetheless 93 Premier Cru (Chablis). Yeasty richness still 2018 story with bravura. Wine Agencies Inc. —A.K. anchored in chalky, limestone coolness. The lemony, imbues lemon notes on this wine’s nose that also abv: 13% Price: $38 smooth texture really sets off the chalkiness. On the shows apple and Mirabelle ripeness. The concen- finish, the wine is smooth, fresh and appetizing in trated palate then majors on bright, incisive lemon Domaine Nathalie & Gilles Fevre 2018 Vieilles its saltiness. Charles Neal Selections. —A.K. ripeness that still rings with sharp green-apple 93 Vignes (Chablis). Pear and lemon appear on abv: 12.5% Price: $33 freshness. This wine is direct, concentrated and the nose of this wine, alongside tantalizing notions superfresh. Milton Road Trading Co. —A.K. suggesting citrus peel, bergamot and bitter orange. Domaine Besson 2018 Montmains Premier abv: 13% Price: $75 The palate bounds the 2018 generosity with that 93 Cru (Chablis). Ripe Mirabelle plum and wet fragrant citrus zestiness, accompanied by crunchy chalk take the lead on this wine’s enticing nose. The Domaine Jean Dauvissat Père et Fils 2018 firmness and a chalky texture. It has depth, original- palate swings towards the fruit, accenting juicy, 93 Côte de Léchet Premier Cru (Chablis). A sub- ity and expressiveness. Wine Agencies Inc. —A.K. plump ripeness that stands on a cool foundation of tle note of wet chalk plays into lemony ripeness on abv: 12.5% Price: $23 chalkiness and texture. The coolness that emanates this wine’s gentle nose. The palate has smooth, lem- from this core ensures freshness despite the ripe- ony and concentrated flow, showing understated Domaine Pascal Bouchard 2017 Les Vieilles ness of 2018. It’s a beautifully captured, zesty and energy that seems powered by the twin forces of 93 Vignes Montmains Premier Cru (Chablis). concentrated wine. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. warm sunshine and cool, chalky depth. It’s a wine of The nose of this wine opens with yeasty oatmeal abv: 12.5% Price: $45 precision and depth. Fass Selections. —A.K. creaminess. This is expressed even more strongly on abv: 13.5% Price: $50 the smooth, almost emollient midpalate where the Domaine Céline et Frédéric Gueguen 2019 yeastiness smoothes itself along limestone fresh- 93 Vosgros Premier Cru (Chablis). Apple, lemon, Domaine Jean Dauvissat Père et Fils 2018 ness. A sense of salty lemon makes for a long, bright, buttermilk and yeast all show on this wine’s funky 93 Homme Mort Premier Cru (Chablis). Nutty, fresh finish. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. nose. The palate unites these notions on a buffered, roasted notes of oak fill this wine’s nose from the abv: 12.5% Price: $45 concentrated, chalky and lemony body that has first whiff onwards. The palate continues in the subtle depth. The wine is smooth, fresh and under- same way, clothing 2018’s ripe fruit with the hazel- Domaine Pascal Bouchard 2016 Les Vieilles stated. T. Elenteny Imports. —A.K. nut and vanilla notes of oak. Lemony freshness 93 Vignes Fourchaume Premier Cru (Chablis). abv: 12.5% Price: $NA counters this, supported by the smooth, yeasty This wine’s shy nose has a promising whiff of lem- texture. This wine needs time to integrate. Drink ony chalkiness. Concentrated but with a lovely Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2018 2023–2035. Fass Selections. —A.K. sense of tension, the palate offers wet, chalky, stony 93 Vaillon Premier Cru (Chablis). Touches of abv: 14% Price: $55 length, with a gorgeous whiff of oystershell. It lin- flint and smoke play enticingly on this wine’s subtle gers subtly, with an accent on texture and freshness nose. There is nothing restrained, however, about Domaine Laroche 2018 Montmains Premier rather than fruit. Drink now–2030. Multiple U.S. the concentrated body, where citrus pithiness is 93 Cru (Chablis). Earth, chalk, lemon and slight importers. —A.K. as prominent as yeastiness. Smooth, ripe freshness yeasty funk play on the wine’s nose. The rounded, abv: 12.5% Price: $45 gives real drive and contour. Drink by 2035. Freder- generous palate is bundled around a central seam of ick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. ripe lemon zestiness and the juiciness of ripe, yel- Jean Durup Père & Fils 2018 Fourchaume abv: 14% Price: $NA low pear suffuses everything. A pithy, chalky texture 93 Premier Cru (Chablis). Notions of lemon, is a lovely counterbalance and provides an extra cream, hayflower and fresh citrus pith unite into Domaine Daniel Dampt & Fils 2019 Côte de dimenstion. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.K. a soothing, scented and cooling nose on this wine. 93 Léchet Premier Cru (Chablis). Subtle creami- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Citrus pith and lemon brightness define the gener- ness on this wine’s nose is tinged with lemon fresh- ous, creamy but taut palate, layered around a core ness. The palate has the same fresh disposition, Domaine Nathalie & Gilles Fevre 2018 Four- of cool, yeasty freshness. The finish is smooth and dressed in lemon brightness, while lemon sharpness 93 chaume Premier Cru (Chablis). Vivid but soothing. Linwood Wine and Spirits. —A.K. pulls the smooth texture into focus. It has lovely restrained lemon peel notes on this wine’s nose abv: 12.5% Price: $NA length and real depth. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —A.K. suggest tautness. The palate is still tightly coiled, abv: 13% Price: $NA conveying pure lemon oil on its firm body. This wine Jean Durup Père & Fils 2018 Montée de Ton- is intense, bright and still needs to relax into lem- 93 nerre Premier Cru (Chablis). Aromas of Domaine Daniel Dampt & Fils 2019 Les Lys ony ease. The finish is fresh and promising. Drink dried hay, summer blossom and fresh, cold, lemon- 93 Premier Cru (Chablis). Mossy freshness on 2022–2032. Wine Agencies Inc. —A.K. scented cream make for an inviting nose on this this wine’s bright nose tinges lemon notes with abv: 13% Price: $30 wine. The palate comes in with concentration and earthy greenness. The slender but concentrated pal- lemony zestiness. This frames the smooth ripeness ate adds a slightly sonorous texture, rounding out Domaine Nathalie & Gilles Fevre 2018 Mon- and underlines the wine’s soothing, gentle, yeasty the curvaceous lemon brightness. It finishes with 93 tée de Tonnerre Premier Cru (Chablis). A texture. An elegant wine, it is long with creamy, a sense of buttery richness and textured length. T. touch of creamy hazelnut shows amid fresh notes of enticing lemon. Linwood Wine and Spirits. —A.K. Edward Wines Ltd. —A.K. green apple and ripe pear on this wine’s nose. The abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $NA palate comes in with rounded juiciness that cen- ters on smooth, ripe creaminess edged with lemon Jean Durup Père & Fils 2018 Vau de Vey Pre- Domaine de Vauroux 2017 Montmains Pre- freshness. Cool, chalky depth lends extra dimension 93 mier Cru (Chablis). A gentle, creamy, floral- 93 mier Cru (Chablis). Slight notions of corn and zestiness. Wine Agencies Inc. —A.K. tinged cloud of lemon defines the tender nose of this husk and milky creaminess hover on this wine’s nose abv: 13% Price: $38 wine. The palate has buffered smoothness, carrying before lemony ripeness kicks in. Concentrated and lemon freshness and rounded yeastiness in a con- smooth, the palate has a chalky tang that becomes Domaine Nathalie & Gilles Fevre 2018 Vau- centrated but weightless fashion. It is supersmooth ever more evident. This wine is concentrated, long, 93 lorent Premier Cru (Chablis). The flinty and elegant. Linwood Wine and Spirits. —A.K. laced with ripe lemon zest and oh so chalky. Regal resonance of reduction still hovers above the glass. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Wine Imports Inc. —A.K. Bundled and energetic, the palate of this wine offers abv: 13% Price: $NA rounded ripeness along with concentrated, zesty, Jean-Marc Brocard 2019 Fourchaume Premier pithy and textured freshness. Full but toned, it’s an 93 Cru (Chablis). Creamy, almost apple-tinged

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 mellowness makes this wine’s nose feel broad and ing freshness. It’s a harmonious wine with chalky in a restrained, smooth and understated fashion. rich. A mealy creaminess underscores the rich- length. Ideal Wine and Spirits. —A.K. This wine is fresh and totally harmonious. Thomas ness even more. The palate reins this in with lemon abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Calder Selections. —A.K. freshness and a stony, chalky focus that is beauti- abv: 12.5% Price: $29 fully pure. Creamy, mealy mellowness returns on Tremblay-Marchives 2019 Vau de Vey Pre- the finish, accompanied by a bright flash of lemon. 93 mier Cru (Chablis). Slight funk twirls lactic Chartron et Trébuchet 2019 Mont de Milieu Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. and yeasty hints on this wine’ nose. The palate also 92 Premier Cru (Chablis). A creamy hazelnut abv: 13.5% Price: $45 has these unresolved notions but a smooth texture, aroma immediately suggests richness, tinged with bright lemon and lively Mirabelle fruit, along with vanilla. The palate of this wine speads out in lemon- Joseph Drouhin 2018 Drouhin Vaudon Sécher a slight nuttiness, ensure that this wine will find its tinged creaminess, filling mouth and mind with 93 Premier Cru (Chablis). A touch of Mirabelle center. Drink 2022–2032. Jerome Selection. —A.K. lemony smoothness. The finish is all vanilla and juiciness plays amid bright, ripe lemon notes on this abv: 13% Price: $30 lemon pie, with an echo of Amalfi lemon zest. Kysela wine’s nose. The palate also shows this almost lus- Père et Fils. —A.K. cious juiciness of Mirabelle fruit but tapers towards William Fèvre 2018 Champs Royaux (Cha- abv: 13% Price: $38 a cool, concentrated center. There is lovely concen- 93 blis). A subtle hint of tangerine on the nose tration, pithy texture and balancing ripe but zesty dissipates to leave ripe lemon brightness. The pal- Corinne et Pierre Grossot 2018 Chablis. A freshness. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —A.K. ate is concentrated, juicy and fresh, brimming with 92 hint of flinty reduction shows on this wine’s abv: 13.5% Price: $55 lemon-edged Mirabelle fruitiness. Chalky depth shy nose, while more swirling reveals touches of anchors everything in coolness despite the ripe, lemon and chalk. The palate has freshness and an Julien Brocard 2018 Côte de Léchet Premier rounded vintage. Maisons and Domaines Henriot. engaging, chalky texture that plays well with the 93 Cru (Chablis). A touch of reduction blends —A.K. ripeness of the vintage. Lemon and chalk make for with lifted lemon-peel notes on the nose of this abv: 13% Price: $35 a wine with great typicity. VOS Selections. —A.K. wine. The palate also still carries some flinty reduc- abv: 13% Price: $NA tion but opens out into lemony, fresh juiciness. Alain Geoffroy 2019 Chablis. A touch of sum- There’s pithy concentration at the heart and a zesty, 92 mer blossom seems to cling to ripe lemon Domaine Alain Gautheron 2018 Cuvée Emer- cool sense of chalkiness. David Bowler Wine. —A.K. notes on this wine’s subtle nose. The palate comes 92 aude (Chablis). Exuberant zestiness on this abv: 13% Price: $40 in with smoothness and roundness, countered by wine’s nose carries a suggestion of lemon candy. bright, ripe lemon freshness. It’s a smooth, elegant The palate is rounder than the nose suggests, with Lamblin & Fils 2019 Vaillon Premier Cru (Cha- and understated wine, full of verve and freshness. lemon ripeness and good concentration on the mid- 93 blis). Green apple and lemon-oil notes on Baron Francois Ltd. —A.K. palate where stony depth adds dimension. The fin- this wine’s nose come with insistent creaminess. abv: 12.8% Price: $29 ish is warm but balanced and really fresh. Charles The palate is concentrated and vivid freshness Neal Selections. —A.K. streams from its cool, profound core of tart, bright Alain Geoffroy 2018 Beauroy Premier Cru abv: 12.5% Price: $30 lemon freshness. Cooling chalkiness soothes and 92 (Chablis). Hints of fresh yellow-pear peel gives resonance and dimension. V&N Cellars. —A.K. and lemon suggest juicy ripeness. The palate of this Domaine Alain Gautheron 2018 Les Four- abv: 13% Price: $60 wine follows up with juicy generosity but channels 92 neaux Premier Cru (Chablis). A tropical hint the fruit into a cool, chalky texture that becomes of ripeness on the nose of this wine fleetingly evokes Louis Jadot 2018 Montée de Tonnerre Pre- more pronounced towards the finish. A lovely lemon passion fruit before lemony brightness takes over. 93 mier Cru (Chablis). The toasty resonance of freshness lasts. Baron Francois Ltd. —A.K. The palate comes in with almost plump, rounded roasted hazelnut on this wine’s nose spells oakiness. abv: 13% Price: $38 richness, suggesting Meyer lemon. Lemon smooth- With its roundness and juicy, ripe lemon freshness, ness persists on the clean, precise finish. Charles the palate accommodates that woody support and Alain Geoffroy 2018 Cuvée Vieilles Vignes Neal Selections. —A.K. make it part of its rich, textural charm. This is a 92 (Chablis). Creamy hints of yogurt and Mira- abv: 13% Price: $51 deep, rounded wine and the ripeness of 2018 equips belle plum on the nose of this wine suggest ripeness it to embrace that nutty richness. Kobrand. —A.K. and generosity. The palate continues these notions Domaine Besson 2017 Mont de Milieu Pre- abv: 13% Price: $54 but adds fruity concentration held in an almost 92 mier Cru (Chablis). Subtle lemon plays above phenolic texture. Yes, this wine is generous but it stoniness on this wine’s nose, aligned to a yeasty Maison Stéphane Brocard 2019 Closerie des is also structured, with bright, fresh length that will sense of oatmeal richness. Fuller and warmer than 93 Alisiers Vieilles Vignes (Chablis). Apple, allow it to evolve. Drink now–2030. Baron Francois the nose suggests, the palate still has to find its cen- yeast, summer blossom and lemon notions layer Ltd. —A.K. ter, but the chalky concentration and lemon ripe- over the creamy oatmeal nose of this wine. Chalky abv: 12.5% Price: $35 ness will stand it in good stead. Drink 2022–2030. depth becomes apparent on the palate. The saline Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. texture is edged with lemon zestiness that counters Albert Bichot 2019 Domaine Long-Depaquit abv: 12.5% Price: $50 this vintage’s ripeness and stands with concentra- 92 (Chablis). Notes of melted butter accent this tion and finesse. Drink 2022–2040. Ideal Wine and wine’s creamy nose with richness. The palate adds Domaine Billaud-Simon 2018 Chablis. Stony Spirits. —A.K. more generosity but in the concentrated fashion of 92 freshness on this wine’s nose projects steel- abv: 13% Price: $NA lemon oil, creating a texture that is smooth, full but iness alongside a riper notion of juicy Mirabelle also pleasantly bitter. This elegant, salty wine has plum. The palate presents the same delicious jux- Maison Stéphane Brocard 2018 Closerie des resonance and lasting allure. Drink by 2030. Albert taposition. Concentration, freshness, zesty texture 93 Alisiers Vau de Vey Premier Cru (Chablis). A Bichot USA. —A.K. and ripeness all vie for attention. It’s an engaging subtle, smooth lemony cloud of creaminess hov- abv: 13% Price: $28 wine with a vividly fresh finish. Frederick Wildman ers above the glass and draws you in. The palate & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. of this wine continues with this lemon creami- Camille & Laurent Schaller 2019 Vieilles abv: 12.5% Price: $NA ness that slowly merges into chalkiness. Rounded 92 Vignes (Chablis). The slightly smoky, hazel- and smooth, the body is helped along by midpalate nutty resonance of oak acccompanies lemon notes Domaine Billaud-Simon 2018 Tête d’Or (Cha- texture, but despite the warm vintage there is last- on this wine’s elegant nose. The palate combines 92 blis). A subtle, flinty note of reduction gives lemon brightness, nuttiness and creamy texture way to creamy, chalky lemon on this wine’s appe-

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BUYINGGUIDE tizing nose. The palate then sweeps in with unex- Domaine Jean Dauvissat Père et Fils 2018 ripeness with vivid juiciness. The finish is bright pected juiciness and ripeness from the hot summer. 92 Vaillons Premier Cru (Chablis). Hay, chalk and lemony. Wine Agencies Inc. —A.K. A leesy, chalky texture lends coolness and anchors and lemon have overtones of ripe Williams pear and abv: 12.5% Price: $20 the freshness. The finish offers more lovely chalki- juicy Mirabelle plum on the inviting nose of this ness. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.K. wine. The palate holds the same fruitiness and lay- Domaine Passy le Clou 2018 Beauroy Premier abv: 12.5% Price: $NA ers of aroma but it presents them in a more linear, 92 Cru (Chablis). Hints of pear skin, lemon, stony and cool fashion. Rounded and creamy ripe- moss and wet chalk appear on this wine’s nose. More Domaine Céline et Frédéric Gueguen 2018 ness from the 2018 vintage reappears on the finish air reveals touches of blossom and peach. The palate 92 Cuvée 1975 (Chablis). Lemon zest and bil- but has a cooler spin. Fass Selections. —A.K. is juicy and sinuous, edged with ripe zestiness and lowing creaminess are the chief markers on this abv: 13.5% Price: $50 chalkiness. Towards the finish, this rounded ripe- wine’s subtle nose. The palate adds juicy flow and ness attains cool smoothenss and freshness. Wine a supple, yeasty texture that answers to the fruiti- Domaine Laroche 2019 Chablis. A hint of fern Universe Corp. —A.K. ness. Lemon brightness pervades and adds flowing 92 gently accents lemony notes on this wine’s abv: 13% Price: $NA balance. The finish is fresh. T. Elenteny Imports. nose. The palate presents more intense lemon that —A.K. unites ripeness with zestiness. This wine is slender, Domaine Pinson 2019 Chablis. A bright and abv: 12.5% Price: $NA taut, linear and energetic, deriving from that pithy, 92 immediate note of ripe lemon on this wine’s textured zestiness on the concentrated body. Wil- nose has both floral and creamy aspects. These Domaine Charly Nicolle 2018 Per Aspera son Daniels Ltd. —A.K. reappear on the smooth, textured and yeasty palate, 92 (Chablis). Corn husk, slight creaminess and abv: 12.5% Price: $NA where a concentrated body of zesty but calm inten- ripe lemon are the chief aromas on this wine’s nose. sity steals the show. This wine is lively but under- The palate has bright and cooling freshness, with Domaine Laroche 2019 Cuvée Zéro (Cha- stated and harmonious. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. an elegant midpalate texture that conveys yeast and 92 blis). Melted butter, bruised apple and abv: 13% Price: $30 stone. An elegant iteration of a challenging vintage, freshly baked show on this wine’s rich and the wine has a fresh and lasting finish. Serge Doré expressive nose. The palate adds a vividly salty line Domaine Sébastien Dampt 2019 Chablis. Selections. —A.K. of freshness to these rich notions that also play on 92 Only subtle notions of lemon can discerned abv: 13.5% Price: $28 the body, creating lovely tension amid the creamy, on this wine’s nose but the palate brims with lemon appley texture. An alluring finish is pure saltiness. verve and mouthwatering juiciness. Concentration, Domaine Charly Nicolle 2017 Ante MCMLXXX Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.K. energy and unadulterated freshness are anchored in 92 Les Fourneaux Premier Cru (Chablis). When abv: 12.5% Price: $NA cool, profound chalk. The Wine House. —A.K. this wine is first opened, the nose offers just a abv: 12.5% Price: $NA distant hint of ripe, yellow apple. Although even Domaine Laroche 2019 Saint Martin (Cha- further swirling does not awaken more aroma, the 92 blis). A lifted intensity of lemon and hazel- François Martenot 2019 Domaine Aleth (Cha- palate compensates with tense, textured and chalky nut on this wine’s subtle nose promises concen- 92 blis). Yellow apple and lemon frehsness vie freshness. There is lemony, bright concentration tration. The palate presents lemon zestiness and a for attention on this wine’s fruity nose. The palate along with smoothness. Ripe apple appears again on yeasty texture that seems to fizz with freshness. It adds zesty, ripe Amalfi lemon and is an exuberant the finish. Serge Doré Selections. —A.K. has lemony resonance, mouthwatering brightness expression of ripe but coolingly articulated fruit. abv: 12.5% Price: $75 and a rounded body to back it all up. Wilson Daniels There is energy, concentrated zestiness and length. Ltd. —A.K. Advantage International. —A.K. Domaine des Malandes 2019 Envers de Val- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $19 92 mur (Chablis). A slight notion of wet chalk appears alongside hints of lemon zest on this wine’s Domaine Laroche 2018 Vieille Voye (Cha- François Martenot 2019 Domaine Carrion fresh nose. Superbright and more open, the palate 92 blis). This wine’s subtle nose combines 92 Montmains Premier Cru (Chablis). The nose offers cooling, smooth chalkiness pervaded by lem- fresh green-apple peel and bright, ripe lemon. Those on this wine has a slight cloud of unclean funk that ony ripeness. It’s a concentrated, elegant wine with fruity notions add freshness to the taut, bright and thankfully disappears with air. The palate is smooth depth. Milton Road Trading Co. —A.K. concentrated palate that has the warmth of 2018 and gentle, fresh with lemon and textured with abv: 12.5% Price: $51 but also cooling, redeeming limestone depth. This yeasty smoothness. There is lovely balance and a wine is textured, elegant and multidimensional. hinterland of chalky richness. Let this wine breathe Domaine Jean Collet & Fils 2018 Chablis. A Drink by 2030. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.K. and come into its own. Drink 2022–2032. Advan- 92 hint of reduction blends flintily with bright abv: 12.5% Price: $NA tage International. —A.K. lemon on this wine’s nose. The tightly held palate abv: 13% Price: $36 presents a similar picture, pervaded by lemon and Domaine Mosnier 2018 Beauroy Premier Cru anchored in chalky coolness. Intensity at the core 92 (Chablis). Hints of chalk and hay join ripe François Martenot 2019 Les Pommiers Pre- along with riper glimpses of Mirabelle are hallmarks pear on this wine’s nose. Ripeness carries over onto 92 mier Cru (Chablis). A subtle note of smoke of the vintage. The Source. —A.K. the palate where it spreads juiciness and generos- comes with creaminess that hovers on this wine’s abv: 12.5% Price: $NA ity. This is countered by cool freshness and a seam shy nose. The palate adds lemony intensity and that of lemony chalkiness lends focus and length. Mr. hint of smokiness attains a tinge of licorice. The fin- Domaine Jean Dauvissat Père et Fils 2018 Wine. —A.K. ish is bright, intense, tight and lasting. Advantage 92 Héritage (Chablis). An initial flinty note of abv: 13% Price: $40 International. —A.K. reduction dissipates immediately and makes way abv: 13% Price: $30 for hints of lemon and Mirabelle. The juicy, con- Domaine Nathalie & Gilles Fevre 2018 Char- centrated palate of this wine also combines yellow 92 donnay (Chablis). Subtle hints of green pear Jean Durup Père & Fils 2018 Chablis. Fresh plum and bright, ripe lemon, countered by slightly and lemon on this wine’s nose promise freshness. 92 pear and apple notes have suggestions of flinty coolness that has chalky depth. Fass Selec- Mossy, bright overtones add to this impression. peach, cream and hazelnut on this wine’s inviting tions. —A.K. Rounded but fresh, the palate has concentration nose. The palate offers the same, supple creaminess abv: 12.5% Price: $35 and balanced, zesty freshness that frames 2018’s that results from an airy but zesty, chalky texture.

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Deep lemony freshness makes everything bright, nance of oak lays itself like balm on this wine’s fruit, citrus and chalkiness. It finishes bright and cool and smooth. Linwood Wine and Spirits. —A.K. lemony nose. On the palate, the oak, creaminess fresh. Maisons and Domaines Henriot. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA and lemon freshness come together as a harmoni- abv: 13% Price: $40 ous trinity, each holding its own with poise. There’s Jean Durup Père & Fils 2018 Vieilles Vignes depth and freshness too. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.K. Camille & Laurent Schaller 2019 Chablis. 92 (Chablis). A subtle nose on this wine com- abv: 12.5% Price: $37 91 Subtle creaminess unites green-pear peel bines cornmeal, chalk, ripe pear and lemon peel. and lemony brightness on this wine’s gentle nose. The palate wraps these notions in a concentrated, Roland Lavantureux 2018 Chablis. A touch These elements come together on the concentrated, fine web of fresh firmness that counterpoints the 92 of wet walnut accompanies pear and lemon smooth palate where creaminess is countered by juiciness. Generous but firm, the wine offers a beau- on this wine’s fresh nose. Vivaciousness at the core lemon zestiness. Depth intensifies the texture and tiful take on this unusual vintage. Linwood Wine belies the heat of the 2018 vintage. Yes, there is con- freshness. Thomas Calder Selections. —A.K. and Spirits. —A.K. centration and some midpalate weight, but salty, abv: 12.5% Price: $26 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA preserved-lemon freshness dominates the wine and bright finish. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —A.K. Clotilde Davenne 2018 Chablis. Just a touch of Joseph Drouhin 2018 Drouhin Vaudon Mont abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 91 flinty reduction echoes on this wine’s nose, 92 de Milieu Premier Cru (Chablis). A hint of merging into zesty, ripe lemon. The concentrated ripe pear-peel freshness blends with bright lemon Roland Lavantureux 2018 Vauprin (Chablis). palate redoubles that lemon and presents freshness on the nose of this wine. The palate comes in with 92 Resonant notes of roasted hazelnut on the in spite of the 2018 ripeness. This wine is energetic rounded, ripe juiciness edged with lemon pith and nose of this wine sit well with the lemon bright- and bright. Bonhomie Wine Imports. —A.K. peel, giving contour to the generosity. Chalky, lem- ness. The palate carries the same nuttiness but puts abv: 12.5% Price: $NA ony freshness and cooling depth counteract the lemon freshness center stage. This slightly smoky slightly warm finish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —A.K. combination is bedded on a smooth but cooling, Domaine Charly Nicolle 2017 Ante MCMLXXX abv: 13% Price: $55 yeasty texture, with beautiful length. Kermit Lynch 91 (Chablis). A touch of dried corn husk plays Wine Merchant. —A.K. subtly on this wine’s nose while more air brings a Joseph Drouhin 2017 Réserve de Vaudon abv: 12.5% Price: $NA sense of lemony ripeness. The smooth, ripe palate 92 (Chablis). Subtle lemon freshness and a adds a sense of yeasty texture and gives extra sheen sense of Williams pear play on the subdued nose Simonnet-Febvre 2018 Chablis. For full to that lemon ripeness. Salty slenderness on the fin- of this wine. The palate comes in with equal ten- 92 review see page 15. ish is rather elegant. Serge Doré Selections. —A.K. derness and presents a beautiful texture with just abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 12.5% Price: $33 an echo of flinty reduction. This wine conveys restraint, anchored in stone and freshness. Midpal- Simonnet-Febvre 2018 Fourchaume Premier Domaine de Vauroux 2018 Chablis. Fresh ate concentration and almost hidden heat make this 92 Cru (Chablis). For full review see page 15. 91 lemon zest and a hint of wet chalk promise a compelling rendition of the 2018 vintage. Dreyfus, abv: 13% Price: $48 freshness on this wine’s nose. The palate has more Ashby & Co. —A.K. roundness and ripeness than expected but preserves abv: 13.5% Price: $38 Stephanie & Vincent Michelet 2017 Beauroy its cooling, soothing chalky freshness that emanates 92 Premier Cru (Chablis). It takes a bit of swirl- from real depth. This is elegant, concentrated, cool Julien Brocard 2018 Boisonneuse (Chablis). ing for the lemon and chalk notes on this wine’s and supersmooth. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —A.K. 92 This wine opens with a flinty, promis- subtle nose to wake up. Concentrated but gentle, abv: 12.5% Price: $NA ing whiff of reduction. The freshness of the palate the palate unfurls with ease and displays a compact chimes in with zesty purpose and forms a bright core where chalk and lemon unite in a mouthfilling Domaine des Malandes 2019 Cuvée Amandine core to the generous and rounded smoothness of flow. A light, chalky texture supports this and inten- 91 (Chablis). Only the slightest hint of fresh 2018. A textural midpalate provides a lovely back- sifies the length. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.K. lemon peel escapes this wine’s closed nose. The drop for the harmonious freshness of this wine. abv: 13% Price: $46 palate comes in with juicy concentration, almost David Bowler Wine. —A.K. fizzing away with rounded, ripe freshness. There abv: 13% Price: $35 William Fèvre 2019 Chablis. Subtle zestiness is something lively here, bundled around a central 92 insinuates itself on the subtle cornmeal shaft of cool, bright lemon zestiness. It’s refreshing Moillard 2019 Vaucoupin Premier Cru (Cha- notes of this wine’s nose. More air reveals fresh and long. Kosher. Milton Road Trading Co. —A.K. 92 blis). The gentle smokiness of subtle oak green-pear peel. The palate comes in with ripeness abv: 12.5% Price: $52 gives resonance to lemony notes on this wine’s and pervasive citrus freshness. Bright and juicy, the nose. Smokiness also touches the pithy texture and wine has gentle but zesty concentration and fresh Domaine Louis Moreau 2019 Chablis. Notes lemon brightness on the concentrated palate. Bal- resonance. Maisons and Domaines Henriot. —A.K. 91 of green and yellow apple join zesty lemon anced and harmonious, this wine gives enough rein abv: 13% Price: $40 hints on this wine’s appetizing nose. The palate car- to the lemon freshness, yet has that kiss of smoky ries that same fruitiness, marked by both full ripe- oak. Advantage International. —A.K. William Fèvre 2019 Champs Royaux (Cha- ness and aromatic freshness. A bright, lemony vein abv: 13.5% Price: $35 92 blis). Green-pear peel and notions of lemon, cuts through the middle with juicy allure, giving bergamot and tangerine make for a tantalizingly glimpses of cool, appealing depth. Winebow. —A.K. Moillard 2018 Bougros Grand Cru (Chablis). aromatic and fresh but subtle nose. The palate is abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 92 Smoky oak wraps itself like a cloak around bright but smooth, soothed by a chalky texture that this wine’s aromas but lemon peeps through. The carries cooling zestiness to the long finish. Maisons Domaine Mosnier 2018 Chablis. Subtle, palate is similarly rounded and rich with oakiness, and Domaines Henriot. —A.K. 91 almost mossy freshness perfumes lemon but a bright, concentrated core of lemon oil creates abv: 13% Price: $35 notes on this wine’s nose. The palate comes in with freshness and even more richness. Drink 2025– ripeness and concentration, pushing 2018’s warmth 2035. Advantage International. —A.K. William Fèvre 2018 Chablis. A touch of along with a sense of freshness. Bold but honest, abv: 13% Price: $60 92 reduction blends in with a hint of lanolin on this wine has a lovely sense of pithy texture and this wine’s subtle nose. The palate adds zestiness zestiness. Mr. Wine. —A.K. Patricia Raquin 2019 Vieilles Vignes (Cha- to a rounded, smooth and harmonious mix of pear abv: 13% Price: $30 92 blis). The smooth, vanilla-scented reso-

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BUYINGGUIDE

Domaine Mosnier 2018 Vieilles Vignes (Cha- this wine. The palate stays on a straight and narrow trated, fresh and broadens out towards the lemony 91 blis). A subtle sense of flinty reduction can but concentrated path, focused on lemon freshness finish. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.K. still be made out on the slightly lemony nose of this but rounded out with charming, riper notes of pear. abv: 13.5% Price: $36 wine. The palate comes in with slenderness, bright- This wine has quiet intensity, freshness and length. ness and concentration. Unfrilly and honest, the Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. Domaine Alain Gautheron 2018 Chablis. wine carries lemon freshness all the way to the dry abv: 14.5% Price: $28 90 Notions of yellow-apple skin and ripe finish. Mr. Wine. —A.K. lemon peel make for a fruity nose on this wine. abv: 13% Price: $33 Julien Brocard 2019 Boisonneuse (Chablis). While still fresh, the palate has the mellowness of 91 Citrus brightness immediately becomes the 2018 vintage countered by juicy waves of lemon. Domaine Pascal Bouchard 2019 Le Classique evident on this wine’s lively nose, with a sense of The wine offers lovely concentration and a subtle, 91 (Chablis). Even rigorous swirling won’t make boxwood that makes things even fresher. The pal- yeasty texture. Charles Neal Selections. —A.K. this wine’s shy nose give away its secrets. The pal- ate combines freshness and ripeness, majoring on abv: 12.5% Price: $27 ate, however, is an open book of lemon zestiness white and green pear. The finish is balanced, juicy, bedded on smooth, buffering and creamy yeast. It rounded and bright. David Bowler Wine. —A.K. Domaine Besson 2018 Chablis. Notes of offers beautiful concentration and linearity. Mul- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 90 freshly cut yellow apple and ripe lemon tiple U.S. importers. —A.K. almost verge into juicy yellow pear on this wine’s abv: 13% Price: $28 Marius César 2019 Sublimis Vallis (Chablis). A rich nose. The palate displays the same generous 91 very shy nose only gives hints of peardrop and fruitiness and beds it in on a fresh, if rounded, Erick Lavallée Domaine Grand Roche 2018 lemon on the nose of this wine. The palate comes in yeasty texture. It finishes dry and smooth. Multiple 91 Chablis. Hints of cornmeal, yogurt and Mira- with roundness, concentration and ripeness that U.S. importers. —A.K. belle play on this wine’s open nose, suggesting ripe- displays a certain warmth. A smooth, rounded tex- abv: 12.5% Price: $29 ness and creaminess. The palate redoubles on the ture completes the picture. W. Direct. —A.K. Mirabelle richness but lemony brightness keeps abv: 12.5% Price: $43 Domaine Céline et Frédéric Gueguen 2019 everything juicy. Zesty lemon and hints of chalk add 90 Chablis. Subtle lemony zestiness on this coolness to the finish. Classic Wines, Inc. —A.K. Simonnet-Febvre 2018 Bio (Chablis). Subtle wine’s nose comes with a gentle floral dimension. abv: 12.5% Price: $27 91 lemon liveliness characterizes the shy nose The palate lets the lively lemon, which also has a of this wine. The concentrated palate shows some hint of candied peel, spread over the tongue, cov- Garnier et Fils 2018 Chablis. Slight, yeasty warmth countered by ripe lemon-peel zestiness. ering everything in mouthwatering freshness. It is 91 funk tinges lemon notes on this wine’s nose Elegance and a certain self-assurance pervades this bright on the finish. T. Elenteny Imports. —A.K. with a bruised-apple mellowness. The palate comes wine, along with freshness reminiscent of a conifer- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA in with the same easy richness but adds a leesy, ous forest. The finish is bright, appetizing and reso- smooth and salty texture that enhances the appeal. nant. Louis Latour Inc. —A.K. Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2018 This wine is a little off-piste but compelling, despite abv: 13% Price: $NA 90 Chablis. Chalk, hazelnut, green apple, ripe the warm finish. Martine’s Wines. —A.K. yellow plum and lemon all make fleeting appear- abv: 13.2% Price: $NA Stephanie & Vincent Michelet 2018 Chablis. ances on this wine’s vivid nose. There also is a 91 This wine’s gentle nose gives just slight hints lovely touch of smokiness. The palate is more J. Moreau & Fils 2018 Chablis. Notes of lemon- of cornmeal and sundried hay. The palate adds ripe rounded with ripeness than the nose suggests but 91 flecked cornmeal and ripe Mirabelle are dis- notes of yellow pear that come with a gentle pear- still echoes with flinty smoke. This wine is gener- tinct but subtle on the nose of this wine. The palate peel texture augmented by yeastiness. Citrus con- ous but also fresh. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. adds juicy pear to the Mirabelle richness. Yeastiness centration keeps this wine on the fresh, taut side —A.K. anchors the fruit while gentle lemon provides fresh- despite the 2018 heat. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA ness. This wine is rounded and harmonious, with a abv: 13% Price: $33 bright finish. Boisset Collection. —A.K. Domaine Daniel Dampt & Fils 2019 Chablis. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Albert Bichot 2019 Chablis. This wine’s aro- 90 Subtle mossy, cool and lemony chalkiness 90 matic nose combines fresh, crunchy green- shows on this wine’s shy nose. The palate offers Jean-Luc Aegerter 2019 Côte de Léchet Pre- gage with ripe lemon. The concentrated palate con- more rounded fruit than the nose suggests, present- 91 mier Cru (Chablis). Lemon yogurt, cornmeal, tinues with this insistent, bright and engaging fruit ing juicy, ripe pear and pithy, citrusy texture. This is green pear and ripe lemon zest all appear on this duo, adding a slightly pithy texture to the body. The mouthfilling and round, but concentrated and zesty wine’s nose. The palate then sets a more focused finish is fresh and zesty. Albert Bichot USA. —A.K. at the same time. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —A.K. tone with a line of bright, tight lemon freshness abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA but the rounded, creamy texture remains somewhat mealy. The fresh finish continues the concentration Chanson Père et Fils 2018 Chablis. Creamy Domaine des Malandes 2019 Chablis. Notes shown on the body. Misa Imports. —A.K. 90 lemon and a sense of yeastiness and oat- 90 of green-pear peel are laced with lemon abv: 13% Price: $43 meal make for a mellow but fresh nose on this wine. freshness on this wine’s aromatic nose. Winsome The palate speaks of the ripeness of 2018, with a pear fruit and textured pear peel are pervaded by Jean-Marc Brocard 2019 Les Vieilles Vignes de generous sense of apple and ripe pear, and a warmth ripe but zesty lemon freshness on the smooth, con- 91 Sainte Claire (Chablis). It takes much swirl- countered by lemon zestiness. Creaminess is pres- centrated body. Milton Road Trading Co. —A.K. ing to get a hint of lemon zestiness on this wine’s ent from start to finish and rounds out the dry con- abv: 12.5% Price: $43 very shy nose. Equally reticent, the palate is driven clusion. Vintus LLC. —A.K. forward by a core of textured lemon brightness. abv: 13% Price: $34 Domaine Jean Dauvissat Père et Fils 2018 This wine is elegant and a picture of mouthwater- 90 Chablis. Not even vigorous swirling makes ing lemon zestiness. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. Chartron et Trébuchet 2019 Beauroy Premier this wine’s shy nose open. The palate comes in with abv: 13.5% Price: $32 90 Cru (Chablis). Creamy yeast on this wine’s warmth, concentration and a notion of ripe, juicy nose is pervaded by bright lemon zestiness. The pal- apple. There is a slightly textured midpalate and Jean-Marc Brocard 2019 Sainte Claire (Cha- ate follows with intensity that also holds notions of more apple and lemon on the balanced, impactful 91 blis). The slightest touch of flinty reduction bruised apple and citrus pith. This wine is concen- finish. Fass Selections. —A.K. still plays around lemony brightness on the nose of abv: 12.5% Price: $30

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Domaine Jean Dauvissat Père et Fils 2018 mealy, lemony texture. The finish is all bright lemon textured, pithy freshness pulled into focus by lem- 90 Claire (Chablis). Creaminess and some and creamy. Misa Imports. —A.K. ony brightness. It is citrusy and fresh on the finish. nutty resonance appear on this wine’s nose, along- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —A.K. side a hint of lemon zest. The palate has that same abv: 12.5% Price: $19 slightly oaky nuttiness that sits well with the round Lamblin & Fils 2019 Chablis. Slight yeasty body. An enhanced texture makes for a smooth, bal- 90 funkiness blends with green-pear peel, Maison Chandesais 2018 Premier Cru (Cha- anced finish. Fass Selections. —A.K. creaminess and lemon on this wine’s nose. The pal- 89 blis). Notes of cornmeal and lemon yogurt abv: 12.5% Price: $35 ate shows beautiful concentration on a ripe, slightly are the backdrop to ripe Mirabelle plum on this pithily textured body reminiscent of lemon zest. All wine’s fruity nose. Milkiness also pervades the Domaine Jean-Claude Courtault 2018 Cha- is fresh, vivid and juicy. V&N Cellars. —A.K. rounded, smooth palate where pithy freshness 90 blis. Subtle scents of sun-dried hay and abv: 12.5% Price: $38 counters the richness. The finish is clean and bright. fresh lemon make for an appetizing nose on this Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —A.K. wine. The palate comes in with ease and flow. A Louis Jadot 2018 Chablis. Aromas of green abv: 13% Price: $30 zesty concentrated core counters the richness of the 90 and yellow apple, oatmeal and ripe lemon vintage, expressed here via full, juicy Mirabelle fruit zest spell freshness and ripeness in equal measure. Domaine Beaufumé 2018 Chablis. Hints of and lemon. Banville Wine Merchants. —A.K. The palate of this wine follows suit. A fruity, con- 88 corn husk and pear peel are all that this abv: 13% Price: $35 centrated midpalate conveys zestiness and channels wine’s shy nose gives away. Equally neutral, the pal- the ripeness of 2018 beautifully. This is vivid, ener- ate merely pesents its textured, pithy midpalate and Domaine Passy le Clou 2018 Chablis. A lifted getic and bold. Kobrand. —A.K. some freshness. It is clean and bright on the finish. 90 sense of hayflower and lemon peel signals abv: 13% Price: $26 Winebow. —A.K. ripeness right away on this wine’s open nose. The abv: 12.5% Price: $30 palate follows with textured, rounded pear skin Moillard 2019 Coquillage (Chablis). This juiciness and a real sense of russet pear. This is rich, 90 wine’s subtle nose combines fresh green- Jean-Luc Aegerter 2019 Vieilles Vignes (Cha- smooth and fresh. Wine Universe Corp. —A.K. pear peel, lemon and peardrop aromas. The rounded 88 blis). Buttery, mealy richness on this wine’s abv: 13% Price: $NA palate brims with more pear fruit juiciness. All is open nose is edged with fresh lemon. The palate pervaded by lemon-peel freshness that makes for a continues this rounded richness and lemon bright- Domaine Vincent Dampt 2019 Chablis. bright finish. Advantage International. —A.K. ness on an juicy, fresh palate. It is smooth and still 90 Green-pear peel freshness makes for a abv: 12.5% Price: $17 buttery on the finish. Misa Imports. —A.K. lovely nose on this wine. The palate combines pear- abv: 12.5% Price: $21 peel texture with citrus pithiness on the concen- Sainte Céline 2019 Chablis. Breezy lemon trated body while vivid lemon freshness pervades 90 aromas hover gently above the glass. Bright Maison Chandesais 2018 Les Annonciades everything. It is bright, zesty, rounded and mouth- lemon juiciness also plays on the palate of this wine, 88 (Chablis). Something lifted about this watering on the finish. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. which has a slightly textured body of some pithi- wine’s nose suggests candied lemon, while more abv: 12.5% Price: $28 ness. This wine is light, smooth and fresh. Multiple air adds a note of lemon yogurt. The palate shows U.S. importers. —A.K. roundness, warmth and more of that concentrated François Martenot 2019 Domaine Carrion abv: 14.5% Price: $28 lemon vibe. It finishes dry, warm and rounded. 90 (Chablis). This wine’s reticent nose gives Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —A.K. just a hint of reductive funk. The slender palate Tremblay-Marchives 2019 Chablis. Subtle abv: 12.5% Price: $20 carries that same yeastiness that now has an edge 90 lemon zestiness rises gently but steadily of flintiness. It seems like a wine that was awak- from the glass. Real lemon brightness follows on the ened too soon from its slumber. Essentially fresh, slender, focused palate of this wine, which brims PETIT CHABLIS textured and vivid, it just needs to find its center. with vibrance and also shows a little of that beauti- Advantage International. —A.K. ful Chablis chalkiness. The finish is fresh. Jerome Julien Brocard 2019 Les Plantes (Petit Cha- abv: 13% Price: $19 Selection. —A.K. 89 blis). Exuberant fruit jumps from the glass abv: 12.5% Price: $27 with the first whiff. Fresh pear, crunchy greengage François Martenot 2019 La Reine Pedaque and juicy Mirabelle plum combine within a lem- 90 (Chablis). Despite swirling, this wine’s Chartron et Trébuchet 2019 Chablis. Bright ony cloud of freshness. The full-fruited, taut pal- nose reveals nothing but a faint hint of lemon peel. 89 notes of green pear are smooth and inviting ate is merely the manifestation of that fruit, caught Lemon gets more intense on the concentrated palate on this wine’s nose. The palate comes in with the within vivid freshness and real concentration. where zestiness is mouthwatering and enlivening. same smooth freshness, adding citrus zestiness that David Bowler Wine. —A.K. The body is sinuous, lemony and refreshing. Advan- frames the juicy, fruity body. It’s lemony and utterly abv: 13% Price: $30 tage International. —A.K. appetizing on the finish. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Stephanie & Vincent Michelet 2018 Petit 88 Chablis. Ripe pear and gentle citrus char- François Martenot 2019 Les Marouettes Jean-Luc Aegerter 2018 Réserve Personnelle acterize this wine’s nose. The palate brims with 90 (Chablis). Incipient creaminess appears 89 (Chablis). Vivid notions of lemon yogurt rounded pear but comes with a sprightly body that amid fresh green-pear peel notes on this wine’s fill the nose of this wine with lactic intensity and has balance and freshness. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.K. nose. The palate carries that same textured fresh- richness. The palate reins this in a little and adds abv: 13% Price: $29 ness, adding citrus pithiness to the midpalate on hints of green and yellow apple and a sense of juicy the rounded, fresh but harmonious body. Advantage ripeness. There is concentration and freshness at International. —A.K. the core but the lactic richness that dominates this MEURSAULT abv: 12.5% Price: $16 wine. Misa Imports. —A.K. abv: 14% Price: $22 Jehan Emonin 2018 Goute d’Or Premier Cru Jean-Luc Aegerter 2019 Les Opales (Cha- 92 (Meursault). Subtle hazelnut and creamy 90 blis). Creamy hits of lemon yogurt and but- Levert Frères 2019 Chablis. Aromas of corn- lemon play on the nose of this wine. The palate termilk are intense on the nose of this wine. The 89 meal and lemon yogurt fill this wine’s nose comes in with gentle creaminess and concentration. palate brings the same milky roundness backed by a with creaminess. The palate counters this with Smooth and rounded, it offers hints of smoke and

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BUYINGGUIDE enduring lemon intensity. This is compact, generous just a little warmth on the finish, it is balanced and Domaine du Cellier Aux Moines 2017 Beau- and smooth. Misa Imports. —A.K. smooth. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —A.K. 92 regard Premier Cru (Santenay). A shy nose abv: 13% Price: $128 abv: 13.5% Price: $80 on this wine gives little away but the palate comes in with lemon and limestone freshness. Creami- Jehan Emonin 2018 Les Narvaux (Meur- ness lends roundedness and texture but the serene 90 sault). In this wine, toasty hints of oak SANTENAY brightness holds the attention and provides focus. envelope a rich nose of lemon and honeydew melon. The finish brims with buffered lemon zestiness. The palate also shows this oaky richness on ripe Château de la Crée 2017 Gravières Premier Misa Imports. —A.K. fruit. Gentle freshness counters and rounds out the 93 Cru (Santenay). Subtle lemon creaminess abv: 13% Price: $73 concentrated flavors. Misa Imports. —A.K. on the nose of this wine promises texture and fresh- abv: 13% Price: $88 ness. The palate follows through with a chalky core Maison Evenstad 2017 Beaurepaire Premier bathed in buffered lemon zestiness. This wine is 92 Cru (Santenay). Lemon oil, dried corn husk, resonant and round, but anchored in lemony, bright hazelnut and a touch of vanilla come together on the PULIGNY-MONTRACHET coolness. It’s elegant, soothing and moreish, with a nose of this wine. Uniting these notions, the palate lactic finish. Domaine Serene. —A.K. coalesces around limestone freshness and chalky Château de la Crée 2017 La Rue aux Vaches abv: 13% Price: $70 depth. The freshness is enduring but also smooth 94 (Puligny-Montrachet). For full review see and balanced, with a lemon-cream finish. Domaine page 6. Maison Evenstad 2017 Gravières Premier Cru Serene. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $70 93 (Santenay). Lemon creaminess and a hint of abv: 13% Price: $96 hazelnut play on the nose of this wine. On the vivid Maison Evenstad 2017 La Garenne Premier palate, buffered limestone freshness takes center 94 Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). For full review stage. It’s cool, but clothed in rich lemon oil, nutty MERCUREY see page 7. oak and mellow creaminess. The wine has balance, abv: 13% Price: $125 straightness and length. Domaine Serene. —A.K. Château d’Etroyes 2018 Les Ormeaux (Mer- abv: 13% Price: $90 91 curey). A touch of chalk surrounds the lem- Château de la Crée 2016 Puligny-Montrachet. ony notes of wheat bran on the nose of this wine. 93 Evolution is evident in earthy autumn-leaf Maison Evenstad 2016 Beaurepaire Premier Chalkiness continues on the smooth, textured and and calf leather notes on the nose of this wine, 93 Cru (Santenay). Lifted notes of resin have slightly creamy palate, which has lemony overtones. clothed in slight smokiness. While carrying these the merest hint of honey on the nose of this wine. Freshness makes for a bright yet smooth finish. aromas, the palate still seems fresh with lemony The palate follows up with hazelnutty, lemony rich- Kysela Père et Fils. —A.K. energy and drive. It has concentration, chalky tex- ness, bedded on a creamy texture and highlighted abv: 13% Price: $45 ture, power and precision. Domaine Serene. —A.K. with honey overtones that blend with citrus-oil abv: 13% Price: $70 richness. All this centers around a limestone core of freshness, with a chalkiness that has only just MONTAGNY Domaine du Cellier Aux Moines 2017 Les started expressing itself. Domaine Serene. —A.K. 93 Pucelles Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). abv: 12.5% Price: $90 Domaine du Cellier Aux Moines 2018 Les The slightest touch of fresh pineapple hovers above 91 Combes Premier Cru (Montagny). Dried corn corn husk, lemon and hazelnut notes on the nose of Maison Evenstad 2016 Gravières Premier Cru husk and a fragrant note reminiscent of hay and this wine. The palate knits together in a firm texture 93 (Santenay). Lemon-oil notes on the nose of elder leaf make for an intriguing nose on this wine. that relies on creaminess and concentration. Lemon this wine have a fresh chervil accent and residual These aromas also dominate on the precise palate oil notes set an aromatic accent amid corn-husk hint of reductive flintiness. The palate offers pre- that is informed by vivid freshness and linearity. A resonance and richness. Pure lemon dominates the cision, vivacity and concentration. Everything lovely texture endures, as does that fresh elder-leaf finish. Misa Imports. —A.K. seems to reverberate with richness and freshness. note. Misa Imports. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $150 The wine shows an exemplary balance of lemon abv: 13% Price: $55 oil, vanilla, toast and creaminess. Domaine Serene. —A.K. Les Tourelles de la Crée 2017 Premier Cru CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET abv: 13% Price: $90 90 (Montagny). For full review see page 20. abv: 13% Price: $45 Domaine du Cellier Aux Moines 2017 Les Château de la Crée 2016 Charmes (San- 93 Chaumées Premier Cru (Chassagne-­ 92 tenay). Toasty oak, creaminess and lemon Montrachet). Notes of melted butter strike first on on the nose of this wine segue onto a seamless, RULLY the nose of this wine, followed by lemon and a hint rounded palate. Freshness counters the creamy oak of cinnamon. On the palate, roundness and concen- richness but also accentuates the roundness. It’s a Château d’Etroyes 2018 La Chatalienne tration emanate from a textured, rich core. The fin- rich but fresh wine with lovely texture and a lemon- 90 (Rully). Wheat bran, cream and lemon ish is fresh and mellow on this rounded, rich wine. yogurt finish. Domaine Serene. —A.K. balm combine for an appetizing nose on this wine. Misa Imports. —A.K. abv: 13% Price: $60 The palate continues the creaminess and presents abv: 13.5% Price: $135 rounded, gentle fruit. A slightly chalky texture is Château de la Crée 2016 Gravières Premier resonant with toasty overtones, accentuating the Au Pied du Mont Chauve 2017 Les Chenevottes 92 Cru (Santenay). Hazelnut and vanilla notes inherent warmth that is also expressed in the pine- 92 Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet).­ Slight of oak dominate the nose on this wine, immediately apple finish. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.K. notions of yeast, cream and Mirabelle come forth on suggesting roundness. The palate counters this with abv: 13% Price: $45 the shy nose of this wine. These impressions also pervasive lemon freshness. This game of brightness appear on the rounded, creamy palate that makes juxtaposed with richness continues throughout, Château d’Etroyes 2018 Les Fromanges more of its mellow texture than its aromas. It has rendering this wine mellow and vibrant, with a lip- 90 (Rully). The merest glint of reduction adds a core of freshness and lovely concentration. With smacking lemon finish. Domaine Serene. —A.K. a hint of flint to the creamy lemon nose on this abv: 13% Price: $75 wine. More rounded and smooth than the nose sug- gests, the palate has an gentle, creamy core. Fresh-

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 ness caresses the chalky, lemony finish. Kysela Père enticing, bright nose of this wine. The tight palate with a creamy, honeyed core of freshness that’s now et Fils. —A.K. brings in an earthy edge of autolysis that has rich- mellowing. Slenderness is made rich by depth and a abv: NA Price: $45 ness and dimension. Framed with yeasty saltiness sense of bitter honeycomb. All this is set off by lem- and freshness, the wine presents a body of elegance ony freshness and carried by lively foam. Bonhomie and restraint. It’s long and bone dry. Boisset Collec- Wine Imports. —A.K. VIRÉ-CLESSÉ tion. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $20 Domaine Guillemot-Michel 2018 Charleston Clotilde Davenne 2006 Brut Extra (Crémant 91 (Viré-Clessé). A note of Louis Picamelot 2015 Les Reipes Blanc de 92 de Bourgogne). Vanilla-scented notes of apple has the merest touch of smoke on the nose 93 Blancs Extra Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). ripe, yellow apple fill this wine’s nose with gen- of this wine. The palate comes in with smooth Straw, lemon, chalk, earth and yellow apple com- erous, precise mellowness. This sense of vanilla, roundness, still conveying mellow and fresh apple. bine into one enticing aroma. More air adds a gentle salted butter and apple expands on the slender pal- Although the textured palate is almost tannic with sense of ripe yellow apple. The palate of this wine ate, adding depth rather than weight. The lemony, drying phenolics, real freshness becomes apparent comes in with creaminess, lemon freshness and an chalky core serves as a wellspring of brightness and in the depths. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.K. elegant, fine-boned structure. Lovely now the wine freshness. It’s bone dry and compelling. Bonhomie abv: 14% Price: $50 will be even creamier with some bottle age. It’s an Wine Imports. —A.K. elegant, bone-dry and classy fizz. Serendipity Wine abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Domaine Guillemot-Michel 2018 Retour a la Imports. —A.K. 91 Terre (Viré-Clessé). A lifted sense of white abv: 12.5% Price: $30 JCB 2014 No. 13 Rosé Brut (Crémant de Bour- currant fights through on the shy nose of this wine. 92 gogne). A hint of wild strawberry flickers The rounder palate evokes juicy yellow plum and Louis Picamelot 2014 Les Reipes Blanc de on this wine’s subtle nose amid dried orange-peel white peach. A sense of citrus pith adds real texture 93 Blancs Extra Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). notes. On the palate, rounded richness sets the while lemony depths become apparent with more Creamy notions of ripe yellow apple abound on tone, pitched against a fine line of citrus freshness. time on the palate. This is unusual but the wine has this wine’s gentle nose. Lemony, buttery freshness The foam is lively, creamy and fruity, with bottled vivid juiciness and its own sense of depth. Kysela underpins the palate that is rounded by smooth strawberry mellowness. It has depth and resonance, Père et Fils. —A.K. bubbles. The dry body has depth, a chalky echo while lovely notes of truffle begin to appear in the abv: 14% Price: $45 and dry, elegant finish. Serendipity Wine Imports. red-fruited backdrop. The wine is beautiful and lay- —A.K. ered. Boisset Collection. —A.K. Domaine Guillemot-Michel 2018 Quintaine abv: 21% Price: $30 abv: 12% Price: $78 90 (Viré-Clessé). A chalky hint of rounded lemon is shy on the nose of this wine. However, Paul Chollet 2015 Concerto Brut (Crémant Louis Bouillot 2012 Perle d’Or Brut Millé- the palate is awake with juicy yellow apple and rich 93 de Bourgogne). Creamy richness brimming 92 seimé (Crémant de Bourgogne). Notes of melon edged with ripe lemon freshness. The texture with and buttery shortbread notes honeyed sponge cake and gingerbread on this wine’s is smooth and the body mellow. Bright fruit high- defines both the nose and this wine. On the palate, nose immediately promise evolution and richness. lights the chalky finish. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.K. rounded, creamy and rich autolysis surrounds the The palate follows with concentration and inten- abv: 14% Price: $40 central freshness with its salted butter notes and sity, showing evolved notes of candied lemon peel apple ripeness. The foam is smooth and the palate and that gingerbread vibe. There is roundness and Domaine Guillemot-Michel 2017 Quintaine is concentrated. Freshness is pristine and the finish heightened freshness, flanked by candied-citrus 90 (Viré-Clessé). The nose on this wine con- dry. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. richness. The finish is fresh, smooth, dry and long. veys a mellow and fresh cloud of Golden abv: 12% Price: $32 Boisset Collection. —A.K. apple. Mellowness carries through on the palate, abv: 12% Price: $30 with a smooth core of yellow-apple freshness. An Bruno Dangin 2017 Prestige de Constance edge of peppery spice adds interest but smoothness 92 Extra Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). Ripe Louis Picamelot 2014 En Chazot Blanc de and freshness are the chief charms of this wine. red apple is pure and insistent on this wine’s nose, 92 Noirs Extra Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). A Kysela Père et Fils. —A.K. promising freshness and mellowness. The smooth touch of reduction still spreads flinty notions on abv: 13% Price: $40 body delivers salty, ripe Red Delicious flesh that’s this wine’s nose. Depth of fruit becomes apparent creamy and supple but also savory and peppery. It’s on the palate, with smoky notions of crisp but ripe a compelling wine with real personality, vivid fresh- red apple and subtle yeastiness. The bubbles are BURGUNDY ness, lovely balance and pure fruit. Transatlantic fine while a tingling spine of freshness brightens Bubbles. —A.K. everything. Another year of bottle age and this will SPARKLING WINES abv: 12.5% Price: $NA be a stunner. Serendipity Wine Imports. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $34 CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE Cave L’Aurance 2015 Brut Milléseimé (Cré- 92 mant de Bourgogne). Notes of ripe Mira- Paul Chollet NV Brut Zéro (Crémant de Bour- Bailly-Lapierre 2013 Vive-la-Joie Rosé Brut belle and dried apricot point to some evolution on 92 gogne). Golden Delicious apple and salty 93 (Crémant de Bourgogne). Strawberry short- the nose. The fine foam and richness on the palate yeast figure prominently on this wine’s generous cake notes abound on the fresh nose of this wine, carry the same, presenting concentrated, mellow nose. The palate has a creamy, mellow texture, pre- which conveys the fresh fruit, creaminess and rich- freshness and fine, smooth, salty and yeasty autoly- senting fine, smooth bubbles that add excitement to ness of the pastry. The palate puts these all in a sis. Elegant and smooth, the palate has a spine of the ripe apple notes. The bony-dry finish reverber- tight, fresh corset, vivid with liveliness. Fine foam freshness. Allied Beverage Group. —A.K. ates with yeasty, appetizing length. Multiple U.S. makes everything exuberant and bright. The finish abv: 11.5% Price: $24 importers. —A.K. is alluring and dry. Wine Warehouse Imports. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $29 abv: 12% Price: $33 Clotilde Davenne 2011 Brut Extra (Crémant 92 de Bourgogne). A high-toned notion of can- Bailly-Lapierre 2017 Egarade (Crémant de Louis Bouillot NV Fine Réserve Extra-Brut died lemon peel melds into an herbal savoriness 91 Bourgogne). Apple flesh, rye bread and 93 (Crémant de Bourgogne). Fresh and can- recalling crushed yarrow on the nose of this wine. lemon peel make appearances on this wine’s subtle died lemon, cream and angelfood cake figure on the The taut body shows wonderful signs of evolution, nose. They also feature on the palate, accentuated

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BUYINGGUIDE by the fine, gentle foam. This wine is harmonious, ize this wine’s subtle nose. The palate continues over by fruitier, riper Mirabelle plum. The palate fresh and vivid, with a long finish. Wine Warehouse with this fruity gentleness and adds chalk, lemon unites these notions in one smooth, frothy, fresh Imports. —A.K. and salt. With a slender body, frothy bubbles and but rounded package. Fine and smooth, the foam abv: 12% Price: $27 dry finish, this comes together very nicely. Seren- add further charm to this rounded richness. Allied dipity Wine Imports. —A.K. Beverage Group. —A.K. Bruno Dangin 2017 Prestige de Narcès Extra abv: 12.5% Price: $29 abv: 11.5% Price: $20 91 Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). In this wine, subtle aromas include hints of wet chalk, lemon Parigot & Richard NV La Sentinelle Extra Brut Domaine Charly Nicolle NV Brut Nature Pinot peel and yellow apple. The body has precision and 91 (Crémant de Bourgogne). This wine’s shy 90 Noir (Crémant de Bourgogne). Mellow red freshness, outlining these notions with lemony nose reveals only lemony hints of chalk. Touches apple notes on this wine’s nose have a slight but brightness against a yeasty, smooth and creamy of Mirabelle appear on the palate alongside more alluring accent of honey along with chalky creami- backdrop. This wine is elegant and smooth, with notions of chalk and lemon, presented against a ness. On the palate, bright lemon energizes the plenty of charm. Transatlantic Bubbles. —A.K. textured backdrop on a taut body. The finish is dry, creamy, ripe apple flavors that also show a slight abv: 12.5% Price: $NA subtle and enticing. Grand Cru Selections. —A.K. sense of pepper. The bubbles are lively and the fin- abv: 12.5% Price: $28 ish is bone dry. Serge Doré Selections. —A.K. Clotilde Davenne NV Brut Extra (Crémant de abv: 12% Price: $45 91 Bourgogne). Ripe yellow apple is edged with Paul Chollet NV Blanc de Blancs Brut (Cré- lemon on this wine’s nose. On the palate that rich- 91 mant de Bourgogne). Vivid notes of ripe yel- Domaine Labouré-Gontard NV Brut (Cré- ness is pulled into taut, slender focus by full lemon low apple fill this wine’s nose, along with a savory 90 mant de Bourgogne). Cream, yeast and freshness. Salty tanginess clings to the yeasty back- hint of yeastiness. The palate has freshness, yeasty, lemon form a perfect trinity on this wine’s vivid drop, making this wine totally appetizing with its almost salty autolysis and rounded fruit freshness. nose. The fresh palate is lively with bubbles, apple, lemon and salt combo on the dry, long finish. Fruit, yeast and freshness unite on the dry finish. rounded with bready yeastiness and comes with a Bonhomie Wine Imports. —A.K. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. gentle texture. It is dry, appetizing and refreshing abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $29 on the finish. Boisset Collection.Best Buy. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $14 Clotilde Davenne NV Rosé Brut Extra (Crémant Bailly-Lapierre NV Brut Pinot Noir (Crémant 91 de Bourgogne). Notes of red apple have an 90 de Bourgogne). Aromas of Mirabelle and Domaine Pierre André NV Brut (Crémant unusual tangerine highlight on the nose of this wine. ripe, yellow apple fill this wine’s nose with easy 90 de Bourgogne). A hint of candy floss and The palate comes in with slender, vivid brightness fruitiness. The palate adds bready, yeasty texture to peardrop mingles with ripe, mellow apple notes on on a light and taut body. Although the creamy foam the fruit and presents roundness, smoothness and this wine’s nose. The palate adds a yeasty, creamy has yeasty depth, the finish is resoundingly fresh, creaminess, with a dry, fresh and friendly finish. texture and zestiness that makes this wine rather long and dry. Bonhomie Wine Imports. —A.K. Wine Warehouse Imports. —A.K. moreish and enticing. On the finish, it’s dry and abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $25 wonderfully fresh. Misa Imports. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $16 JCB NV No. 69 Rosé Brut (Crémant de Bour- Bailly-Lapierre NV Brut Chardonnay (Cré- 91 gogne). Red apple and dried orange peel form 90 mant de Bourgogne). A slight edge of honey Francois Gleisweiler NV Rosé Brut (Crémant the chief aromas on this wine’s vivid nose. The pal- clings to ripe Golden Delicious aromas on this 90 de Bourgogne). Yeasty creaminess and a ate follows with rounded mellowness bedded on wine’s nose. The palate is rounded with the ripe touch of ripe apple define this wine’s nose, hinting creamy foam and rich yeastiness. Textured, pithy apple fruit, with glints of honey and lemon. It’s a at generosity. The palate is fresh but mellow, with freshness pulls everything into focus. Concentrated harmonious, smooth and fresh wine, with fine foam fine foam underlining the essential smoothness and and bold, this wine would be a gorgeous, rounded and expressive fruit. Wine Warehouse Imports. gentleness. Dry and smooth, the finish combines and dry winter aperitif. Boisset Collection. —A.K. —A.K. richness and freshness. DHI Selections. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $28 abv: 12% Price: $25 abv: 12% Price: $16

JCB 2009 No. 39 Brut (Crémant de Bour- Bailly-Lapierre NV Rosé Brut (Crémant de Louis Bouillot NV Grande Réserve Perle des 91 gogne). Creamy yeast on the nose of this 90 Bourgogne). In this wine, notes of Red 90 Vignes (Crémant de Bourgogne). A subtle wine blends with a high note of dried lemon peel Declicious apple come clothed in a berryish, fruity hint of vanilla clings to notes of warm brioche on and hint of bitter fir honey. The palate adds a sense guise. The smooth, rounded palate also homes in this wine’s rounded nose. The palate sweeps up this of wet chalk and a yeasty, creamy texture, still with on Red Delicious ripeness, layering rich fruit onto roundness in a generous embrace with concentra- that bitter glint of fir honey. With its concentration, berry charm and citrus brightness. This wine is tion and freshness. Bubbles froth with liveliness, well-rounded freshness and considerable flavor, easy, generous, bold and fruity, with a dry finish. countering the autolytic roundness. The appetizing this sparkler will do well with subtle food. Boisset Wine Warehouse Imports. —A.K. finish is dry. Boisset Collection. —A.K. Collection. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $25 abv: 12% Price: $20 abv: 12% Price: $78 Bruno Dangin NV Cuvée Blanche (Crémant Louis Bouillot NV Perle d’Ivoire (Crémant de Louis Picamelot 2016 En Chazot Blanc de Noirs 90 de Bourgogne). The freshness and ripeness 90 Bourgogne). A bright, lithe note of citrus 91 Extra Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). A shy of green and yellow apple flesh strikes with purity on this wine’s nose almost has a floral quality. The nose on this wine gently conveys creaminess, lemon on this wine’s nose. The palate offers the same palate is light, citrus-scented and bright, but has a and yellow apple. Next the palate comes in with a expressive fruit, bedded on smooth, gentle foam smooth core of creamy richness. This combination slender tenderness of fine bubbles and brightness. and a fine, yeasty creaminess that makes this wine of different elements offers enduring appeal. Boisset The body is fresh, flowing, harmonious, zesty and exceptionally easy to drink. It’s refreshing, apple- Collection. —A.K. dry. Serendipity Wine Imports. —A.K. scented and bright. Transatlantic Bubbles. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $20 abv: 12% Price: $34 abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Louis Bouillot NV Perle de Nuit (Crémant de Louis Picamelot 2015 Cuvée Jeanne Thomas Cave L’Aurance NV Brut (Crémant de Bour- 90 Bourgogne). A shy nose on this wine gives 91 Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut (Crémant de Bour- 90 gogne). An initial whiff of rye bread on the just slight aromas of yeast. The palate also has this gogne). Creamy, ripe apple flesh notions character- nose of this wine comes with saltiness that’s taken yeastiness that caresses the light green and yellow-

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 apple flavors. The foam is fine and gentle. This Albert Bichot NV Brut Réserve (Crémant de The palate presents a fuller picture of subtle cream- understated wine is altogether elegant and beauti- 89 Bourgogne). In this wine, an initial whiff of iness, light body and frothy, easy foam that makes fully dry. Boisset Collection. —A.K. reduction blows off to reveal bright notes of Golden this an enlivening, dry aperitif. Serendipity Wine abv: 12% Price: $20 Delicious apple. The palate is light and dry, with a Imports. —A.K. lively fizz, dispersing apple notes alongside lemony abv: 12.5% Price: $19 Maison Chanzy NV Blanc de Blancs Brut (Cré- freshness. Albert Bichot USA. Best Buy. —A.K. 90 mant de Bourgogne). A creamy nose on this abv: 12% Price: $13 Paul Chollet NV Brut (Crémant de Bour- wine reveals hints of shortbread and lemon, which 89 gogne). Vivid notes of ripe, red apple come carry over onto the palate. Rounded but fresh, Bailly-Lapierre NV Réserve (Crémant de with enticing creaminess on the nose of this wine. the body displays a lovely balance between fruit 89 Bourgogne). Fresh red apple and lemon zest The bubbles on the slender palate are frothy and and yeastiness. This harmonious wine is dry and make for an appealing aromatic duo on this wine’s lively, carrying more of that fresh apple fruit. It is refreshing on the finish. Winebow. —A.K. nose. The palate adds a yeasty, bready tone and a rounded, dry but beautifully fresh on the finish. abv: 12% Price: $29 slightly pithy texture, complementing the rounded Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. fruit and making for smoothness and glinting fresh- abv: 12% Price: $24 Moingeon NV Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). ness. It is dry and smooth on the finish. Wine Ware- 90 Creamy, mellow autolysis on this wine’s house Imports. —A.K. Paul Chollet NV Brut (Cré- nose suggests bread and bread crust. Just as mellow, abv: 12% Price: $23 89 mant de Bourgogne). The slightest notion the palate buffers its freshness on the rich, fruity of Red Delicious apple shows on this wine’s yeasty mellowness of ripe apple. The bubbles froth slightly, Bulliat NV Brut Nature (Crémant de Bour- nose. Smooth and rounded, the palate buffers fresh- creating liveliness all the way to the dry finish. K&L 89 gogne). Aromas of green-apple skin and ness with yeasty mellowness. The dry finish car- Wine Merchants. Best Buy. —A.K. lemon peel on this wine’s nose make for a striking ries more of that apple brightness. Multiple U.S. abv: 12% Price: $15 opening. The palate is more rounded and ripe than importers. —A.K. the nose suggests but the bubbles are fine, smooth, abv: 12% Price: $29 Parigot & Richard NV Monochrome Rosé Brut and zesty. On the finish, it is dry and appetizing. T. 90 (Crémant de Bourgogne). A hint of straw- Elenteny Imports. —A.K. Simonnet-Febvre NV Brut (Crémant de Bour- berry blends into notes of rosehip tisane that fill abv: 12% Price: $25 89 gogne). Bright lemon on the nose of this this wine’s nose. The palate is fruity and frothy, wine has a floral overtone of summer blossom. The with a tang of lemon and richer note of dried fruit. Domaine Pascal Bouchard NV Brut (Crémant body comes in with lightness and a fine, creamy It’s resonant and dry. Grand Cru Selections. —A.K. 89 de Bourgogne). Buttery creaminess is the foam that enhances the feeling of weightlessness. abv: 12.5% Price: $28 chief notion on this wine’s rounded nose. The pal- This wine is fresh and easy, with a yeasty backdrop ate counters this richness with apple freshness. that gives substance to the fizz. The finish is dry and Parigot & Richard NV Origines Brut (Crémant Although the bubbles are almost creamy, that but- appetizing. Louis Latour Inc. —A.K. 90 de Bourgogne). Ripe notes of yellow apple teriness sets the tone all the way to the dry finish. abv: 12% Price: $NA on this wine’s nose have a zippy touch of lime. The Connecticut Distributors. —A.K. palate also combines richness and liveliness, ener- abv: 12% Price: $25 Simonnet-Febvre NV Rosé Brut (Crémant de gized by frothy bubbles. Underneath it all, saltiness 89 Bourgogne). Hints of strawberry creep into entices you to sip again and again. Grand Cru Selec- La Burgondie NV Brut Réserve (Crémant de the bright lemon nose of the wine. Fresh, rounded, tions. —A.K. 89 Bourgogne). Ripe apple, almost with a hint bubbly and easy, the palate shows pretty fruit with abv: 12.5% Price: $28 of candied apple, and citrus feature on the fresh, some yeasty backdrop. The finish is dry, bright and fruity nose of this wine. The palate retains the apple refreshing. Louis Latour Inc. —A.K. Paul Chollet NV Rosé Brut (Crémant de notes and adds creamy, fruity richness. Everything abv: 12% Price: $NA 90 Bourgogne). Baked and fresh apple notes is supplemented by fine, smooth bubbles. The finish on this wine’s nose create a sense of mellowness. is dry and fresh. Plume Ridge. —A.K. Victorine de Chastenay 2014 Extra Brut Mil- Salty, creamy and round, the palate offers rich apple abv: 12% Price: $26 89 léseimé (Crémant de Bourgogne). Subtle, ripeness. The finish is smooth and dry, with lovely lemony creaminess spreads from the glass. The length. Multiple U.S. importers. —A.K. La Maison du Crémant NV Brut (Crémant de palate of this wine comes in with frothy foam and abv: 12% Price: $27 89 Bourgogne). Fruity aromas of green and yel- slender freshness that is bedded in a slightly chalky, low apple dominate this wine’s nose. The slender gentle texture. Lemony brightness marks the dry Simonnet-Febvre NV Brut P 100 Blanc de palate also brims with bright apple while frothy finish. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. 90 Noir (Crémant de Bourgogne). A pure note bubbles enhance both freshness and fruit. It’s a abv: 12.5% Price: $25 of ripe, red apple is made brighter by an edge of lively sparkler, with a dry finish. Latitude Wines, lemon on this wine’s nose. The palate shows the Inc. —A.K. Vignerons de Mancey NV Rosé Brut (Crémant same fruit combination but favors roundness, still abv: 12% Price: $16 89 de Bourgogne). The creamy richness Red edged by vivid freshness. All the elements are har- Delicious apple flesh immediately fills this wine’s monious and bright, with a gentle foam and dry fin- Louis Bouillot NV Rosé Perle d’Aurore (Cré- nose with mellowness. The palate presents that ripe ish. Louis Latour Inc. —A.K. 89 mant de Bourgogne). Subtle aromas on the but dry and smooth flavor, too. Frothy bubbles add abv: 12% Price: $NA nose of this wine include yeast, citrus and a touch of liveliness and freshness to the rounded wine and its red apple. The palate has a gently phenolic texture dry finish. Authentic Wine Selections. —A.K. Vignerons de Mancey NV Brut Réserve (Cré- reminiscent of citrus pith, which sits well with the abv: 12% Price: $24 90 mant de Bourgogne). Ripe red and yellow yeasty undertone and the rounded but fresh apple apple create a fruity nose on this wine. The palate fruit. The finish is dry and smooth. Boisset Collec- Albert Bichot NV Rosé Brut (Crémant de has ripe apple mellowness and creamy roundness, tion. —A.K. 88 Bourgogne). A hint of lemon and slight as well as a crisp nature. Bubbles are lively and this abv: 12% Price: $20 whiff of strawberry are shy on this wine’s nose. The dry wine presents a harmonious whole. Authentic bright palate is alive with frothy bubbles that make Wine Selections. —A.K. Louis Picamelot NV Les Brut (Cré- this both rounded and fresh. The finish is dry and abv: 12% Price: $22 89 mant de Bourgogne). Just a hint of freshly appetizing. Albert Bichot USA. Best Buy. —A.K. squeezed lemon appears on this wine’s shy nose. abv: 12% Price: $13

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BUYINGGUIDE

Cave L’Aurance NV Rosé Brut (Crémant de Levert Frères 2018 Rosé Brut (Crémant de Victorine de Chastenay NV Rosé Brut (Cré- 88 Bourgogne). An initial hit of strawberry 88 Bourgogne). Perfumes of ripe, juicy straw- 86 mant de Bourgogne). This wine’s nose gives candy eases into a mellow note of ripe red apple on berries and strawberry candy float from the glass. away only a slight sense of lemon. The palate comes this wine’s appetizing nose. With foamy froth, the The palate of this wine is rounded and fresh while in with earthy, rounded freshness and lively froth. palate presents a picture of mellowness and ease, the bubbles enhance that lovely strawberry note all On the finish, it is earthy, dry and fresh. Skurnik supplementing the rich fruit with subtle freshness. the way to the dry finish. Deutsch Family Wine and Wines, Inc. —A.K. Allied Beverage Group. —A.K. Spirits. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 abv: 11.5% Price: $20 abv: 12% Price: $NA

Champliau NV Brut Authentique (Crémant Moillard 2017 Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). SOUTHWEST FRANCE 88 de Bourgogne). Fresh green-apple notes 88 Ripe red and green apple notes abound on abound on this wine’s fruity nose. The palate shows this wine’s fresh nose. The palate offers exuberant WHITE WINES similar verve, bubbling with liveliness on the slen- foaminess, more apple notes, freshness and slen- der body. It’s dry and apple-scented on the finish. derness. This wine is easy, dry, fruity and lively. JURANÇON Winebow. —A.K. Advantage International. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $28 abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Domaine Cauhapé 2014 Quintessence du 96 (Jurançon). This golden Champliau NV Rosé Brut (Crémant de Bour- Moillard 2017 Rosé Brut (Crémant de Bour- is just an adolescent. Its intense 88 gogne). A hint of wet earth comes with a 88 gogne). A hint of cotton candy is all that richness and flavors of baked apricot and honeyed sense of citrus coolness on this wine’s nose. The shows on this wine’s nose. The palate has creami- almonds are shot through with the signature acid- rounded palate has more of that earthy edge that ness, freshness and fine bubbles but could do with ity that gives this grape in this region its greatness. slowly morphs into citrus pithiness and texture. more fruit precision. Nonetheless, this is refreshing This wine is just drinkable, but to enjoy its beauties, There is creamy foam and a sense of ripe freshness. and beautifully dry. Advantage International. —A.K. wait until 2022. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Cellar Selec- The finish is dry. Winebow. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $19 tion. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $120 Chartron et Trébuchet 2017 Brut Chardonnay Domaine Marie André NV Brut (Crémant de 87 (Crémant de Bourgogne). The shy nose on Domaine Cauhapé 2015 Noblesse du Temps 88 Bourgogne). Fruity notes of white currant, this wine reveals a mere hint of lemony yeastiness. 95 (Jurançon). This beautiful wine, harvested yellow apple and Mirabelle plum are tender on this The slender body has a slightly synthetic aspect of in December 2015, is now mature. The oak aging has wine’s nose. The palate is light, easy and frothy, autolysis but also rounded yellow-apple freshness. integrated, leaving traces of nutmeg to spice up the wrapping its freshness in fruitiness. It finishes dry It finishes dry and bright. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.K. richly honeyed character. It is a smoothly seamless and fresh. Misa Imports. —A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 wine, elegant while also rich. Drink now. Skurnik abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Chartron et Trébuchet 2017 Brut Pinot Noir abv: 14% Price: $35 François Martenot 2018 Brut (Crémant de 87 (Crémant de Bourgogne). The merest hint of 88 Bourgogne). Notes of ripe, green apple have creaminess softens lemon notes on this wine’s nose. Domaine Cauhapé 2017 Symphonie de hints of lime peel and pear drop on this wine’s nose. The palate is frothy, light and alive with bubbles 94 Novembre (Jurançon). Because Jurançon is Fruitiness is also evident on the palate where fine that enhance its inherent freshness. It is dry and a late harvest wine style, grapes can easily be har- fizz adds creaminess to the freshness. The finish is easy on the finish. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.K. vested well into November, The year in wood has dry and bright. Advantage International. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $20 added spice to the honey and the baked apricot fla- abv: 12% Price: $15 vors. The wine is beautifully rich, laced with citrus Domaine des Terres de Velle NV Les Bulles acidity and just ready to drink. Skurnik Wines, Inc. JCB NV No. 21 Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). 87 Extra Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). In this Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 88 Notes of Red Delicious apple on the nose of wine, initial flinty reduction blows off and reveals abv: 13% Price: $24 this wine have a leafy overtone of elderberry. The fresh apple and lemon notes. The frothy palate is mellow palate has an earthy tinge, hinting at chalk easy and light, giving a sense of ripe, yellow-apple Domaine Cauhapé 2018 Boléro (Jurançon). but also wanting a little more definition. Rounded flesh and rounded freshness. Bubbles are lively and 92 Oak aging has brought out the honeyed and smooth, the body comes to a dry finish. Boisset the finish is dry. Ideal Wine and Spirits. —A.K. character of this late harvest wine. It is rich, but Collection. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $25 intensely shot through with acidity to give fresh- abv: 12% Price: $25 ness at the same time as the sweetness. Drink now. Francois Gleisweiler NV Brut (Crémant de Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. La Burgondie NV Rosé Brut (Crémant de 87 Bourgogne). A lifted hint of something akin abv: 13% Price: $20 88 Bourgogne). A strawberry candy note to pine presents itself first on this wine’s fresh nose. abounds on the vivid and fresh nose of this wine. On the palate, a rye-bread notion of autolysis adds Domaine Cauhapé 2019 Ballet d’Octobre The palate adds ripe, red apple freshness as well as yeasty mellowness to this fresh, smooth, dry wine. 89 (Jurançon). The noble grape of Jurançon frothy but creamy foam, making this an easy, joyous, DHI Selections. —A.K. aged in wood gives what is a medium sweet wine, fruity and dry sparkler. Plume Ridge. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $16 beautifully delineated and hinting at yellow fruits abv: 12% Price: $15 and honey as well as spice. The wine will be ready Victorine de Chastenay NV Brut (Crémant from 2021. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. Levert Frères 2018 Brut (Crémant de Bour- 87 de Bourgogne). Notes of fresh pear, lemon abv: 13% Price: $16 88 gogne). Slight notes of red and yellow apple and green apple unite into fruity freshness on this come with tender creaminess on this wine’s nose. wine’s nose. Just as fruity, the palate is also light The slender palate also has lively apple notes and and foamy. The finish is dry and fresh. Skurnik JURANÇON SEC an easy, slightly creamy foam that makes this wine Wines, Inc. —A.K. fresh and smooth. It is dry on the finish. Deutsch abv: 12.5% Price: $19 Domaine Cauhapé 2017 C de Cauhapé (Juran- Family Wine and Spirits. —A.K. 93 çon Sec). Five local grapes, including three abv: 12% Price: $NA that are rare, go into this wood-aged wine. It is a

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 selection from the best of the vintage from each grape, giving a rich wine that is finely balanced and SAINT MONT CÔTES DU LOT now mature. The wood aging shows as do the kiwi and white fruit flavors. Drink now. Skurnik Wines, Secret Vines 2018 Reborn Varietals Gros Château Vincens 2019 La Pierre Levée Char- Inc. —R.V. 90 Manseng-Petit Courbu-Arrufiac (Saint 86 donnay (Côtes du Lot). With some oak aging, abv: 14.5% Price: $39 Mont). For full review see page 21. this fruity wine has creamy acidity and an attractive abv: 13.5% Price: $20 spicy edge. With its pear and kiwi flavors, allied to Domaine Cauhapé 2018 La Canopée (Juran- toastiness, it is a balanced while still young. Drink 92 çon Sec). Aged in wood for 12 months, this Plaimont 2018 Les Cépages Préservés (Saint from 2021. DHI Selections. —R.V. superrich wine is dense, spicy and approaching 89 Mont). A blend of Gros Manseng. Petit abv: 13.5% Price: $22 maturity. Its yellow fruit flavors are balanced by a Courbu and Arrufiac, this wine comes from three tight, zesty character that brings out acidity. The local varieties that are showing their quality. The wine is full though still young, and is likely to be wine is rich with ripe white fruits, tangy acidity and ROSÉS best from 2021. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. intense freshness. Drink now. Brickell Wines LLC. abv: 14.5% Price: $29 —R.V. Lionel Osmin & Cie 2019 Pyréne Le Temps des abv: 13.5% Price: $18 87 Roses Rosé (Comté Tolosan). A rosé from the Domaine Cauhapé 2017 Quatre Temps Négrette grape of Fronton, this is lightly textured 92 (Jurançon Sec). Half-and-half Petit and Gros with spice and peppered raspberry flavors. With its Manseng, this dry wine has touches of honey and CÔTES DE GASCOGNE ripeness and texture, it is probably best as a food apricots as well as deliciously rich ripe apples. As a rosé. Drink now. Vintage Imports, Inc. Best Buy. contrast to all this fruitiness, this fine wine is tex- Domaine Saint-Lannes 2019 Signature —R.V. tured and perfumed and is ready to drink. Skurnik 88 (Côtes de Gascogne). With its blend of abv: 12.5% Price: $10 Wines, Inc. —R.V. and Gros Manseng, this wine brings abv: 14.5% Price: $20 together ripe fruitiness of kiwi and fresh currants, Château Lagrézette 2019 Roseberry Malbec all tied up with acidity. The wine is attractive and 88 Rosé (Côtes du Lot). An attractive fruity Domaine Cauhapé 2019 Geyser (Jurançon ready to drink. Russell Herman Selection. Best Buy. wine with a bite of pepper, this is poised between 91 Sec). A blend that includes rare local grapes —R.V. soft and crisp. Its bright acidity and raspberry fruit- such as Camaralet, Petit Courbu and Lauzet gives abv: 11.5% Price: $13 iness are just right. It’s ready to drink. First Growth complexity and great richness to the two primary Brands. —R.V. Manseng grapes. It’s an impressive evocation of the Plaimont 2018 Domaine de Cassaigne Grand abv: NA Price: $25 region—rich, spicy, citrusy and ready to drink from 88 Vin (Côtes de Gascogne). This ancient 2021. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. estate, just south of the Armagnac town of Condom, Château Lagrézette 2019 Le Rosé de Julie abv: 14.5% Price: $17 is managed by the Plaimont cooperative. This wine 87 Rosé (Côtes du Lot). Made from 100% Mal- is fresh and fruity, touched with honey and apricots bec, this wine has ripeness as well as a rounded tex- Domaine Cauhapé 2019 Chant des Vignes as well as bright citrus flavors. Drink now. Brickell ture. Acidity shoots through, bringing with it rasp- 90 (Jurançon Sec). Crisp acidity allied to pine- Wines LLC. —R.V. berry flavors and shots of orange zest. Drink this apple and kiwi flavors give this wine both freshness abv: 12% Price: $18 attractive wine now. First Growth Brands. —R.V. and bold, vibrant acidity. The wine, a blend of Gros abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Manseng and Camaralet, is ripe, touched by pepper Lionel Osmin & Cie 2019 L’Incomparable Beau and ready to drink. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Best Buy. 87 Manseng (Côtes de Gascogne). Along with Lionel Osmin & Cie 2019 La Dune Domaine —R.V. its partner Petit Manseng, the Gros Manseng is a 87 de Bachen Rosé (Landes). A blend of Merlot abv: NA Price: $15 variety in the southwest of France. This wine and Cabernet Franc from the coastal Landes region, shows its ability to be both bone-dry and honeyed, this is a rounded, red fruit ripe wine. With a hint of Lionel Osmin & Cie 2019 Clos de la Vierge Le ripe and intensely fresh. Drink this perfumed, fruity caramel to point up the acidity and the zesty tex- 90 Carré de Pées (Jurançon Sec). This dry wine wine now. Vintage Imports, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. ture, the wine is ready to drink. Vintage Imports, is rich, full with touches of honey along with ripe abv: 12% Price: $11 Inc. —R.V. apricots. Its dryness comes through in the intense abv: 12.5% Price: $17 citrus acidity and the thrust of freshness to balance Plaimont 2019 Big Born in Gascony (Côtes de the wine’s richness. Drink this delicious wine now. 87 Gascogne). Gascogne is Gascony in English, Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V. and this wine celebrates the light and fresh white SOUTHWEST FRANCE abv: 14% Price: $17 wines from the region. This naturally dry Gascon wine blend of Colombard and Gros Manseng has RED WINES Lionel Osmin & Cie 2019 Clos Cancaillou Le touches of honey as well fresh currants and tight, 89 Lavoir (Jurançon Sec). Petit Manseng in dry brilliant acidity. Drink now. Brickell Wines LLC. CAHORS mode makes powerful wines with high alcohol lev- Best Buy. —R.V. els. It shows in this wine with a burn on the palate, abv: 12% Price: $11 Château Vincens 2016 Graves de Paul but at the same time, there is the grape’s intense 94 (Cahors). Selections from the estate’s top freshness from lemon and honey flavors. Drink from Lionel Osmin & Cie 2019 Pyrène Cuvée parcels and aging in new wood for two years have 2021. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V. 86 Marine (Côtes de Gascogne). The crisp, cool produced an immensely rich wine. Polished and abv: 15% Price: $25 and classic Gascon blend of Colombard, Sauvignon spicy, the wine has serious tannins as well as lay- Blanc and Gros Manseng has yielded a bright, crisp ers of black fruits. The wine is just there, and it is wine, light as a feather and refreshingly fruity. With impressively ready to drink. DHI Selections. Cellar its light touch and lively acidity, the wine is ready to Selection. —R.V. drink. Vintage Imports, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $38 abv: 11.5% Price: $10 Paul Hobbs & Bertrand Gabriel Vigouroux 94 2015 Crocus La Roche Mère (Cahors). This is

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BUYINGGUIDE the top wine from a partnership between California Paul Hobbs & Bertrand Gabriel Vigouroux consultant Paul Hobbs and the Vigouroux family of 90 2016 Crocus L’Atelier (Cahors). One of three MADIRAN Cahors. It is a splendidly rich wine, with licorice, wines produced by California-based consultant spice and swathes of powerful black fruits. There Paul Hobbs in partnership with the Vigouroux fam- Domaine Berthoumieu 2016 MCM is an astonishing amount of freshness as well, with ily in Cahors, this is a rich, densely textured blend 95 (Madiran). Once you’ve negotiated the awk- its acidity and black currant flavors balancing the across different terroirs. It is concentrated, showing wardly heavy bottle, the wine is a great pour. Power- wine’s density. Drink from 2022. Paul Hobbs Selec- licorice flavors as well as black fruit and some firm fully tannic, it is rich in dark berry flavors and dense tions. —R.V. extraction. So even after four years, the wine needs concentration. Because it is still young, its structure abv: 14% Price: $75 to soften. Drink from 2022. Paul Hobbs Selections. and firm extraction are still evident. As it matures, —R.V. this will become a finely balanced wine. Drink from Château Vincens 2018 Origine (Cahors). abv: 14.5% Price: $21 2023. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V. 93 Still totally young, this dense, structured abv: 14.5% Price: $29 and tannic wine shows strong wood aging flavors. Lionel Osmin & Cie 2018 Cahors Malbec Licorice and bitter chocolate emphasize the wine’s 89 (Cahors). A rich and dense wine that has Domaine Berthoumieu 2015 Vitis MCM youth and fine future. Drink from 2023. W. Direct. concentrated black fruits, firm tannins and bold, 95 (Madiran). This is a perfectly mature, —R.V. juicy richness. The wine is balanced, with its struc- superrich and structured wine. The Tannat has been abv: 14.5% Price: $28 ture showing well against the fruit. Drink from tamed with age to produce its ripe black fruits allied 2021. Vintage Imports, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. to a leathery texture. Concentrated and deeply pow- Château Vincens 2017 Origine (Cahors). This abv: 13% Price: $14 erful, this wine is ready to drink. Vintage Imports, 93 pure Malbec wine is solid, dark with tannins Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. and blueberry fruits. It is full and rich, dense with Château Vincens 2019 P.U.R.E. (Cahors). abv: 14.5% Price: $29 ripeness and serious concentration. With its rich- 88 Made without added sulfur, this wine ness still coalescing, the wine could age further, so has fine black fruits and a texture that is already Domaine Berthoumieu 2018 Au Calvaire drink from 2021. W. Direct. —R.V. smoothing out. There are plenty of dark fruits tones 92 (Madiran). This is a big wine in all senses. abv: 14% Price: $28 as well as ripe tannins, with plenty of acidity to bal- Its rich blackberry fruits are dense and concen- ance. Drink from 2021. DHI Selections. —R.V. trated, ripe in tannins as much as fruit at this stage. Paul Hobbs & Bertrand Gabriel Vigouroux abv: 13% Price: $20 Dark chocolate flavors mingle with a solid structure 93 2015 Crocus Le Calcifère (Cahors). Produced to back up the massive fruits. The wine needs time, from vines on chalk soil, the wine is one of three so drink from 2023. Vintage Imports, Inc. Editors’ produced by California-based consultant Paul BUZET Choice. —R.V. Hobbs in partnership with the Vigouroux family in abv: 15% Price: $25 Cahors. Textured with strong touches of minerality Vignerons de Buzet 2016 Odalis (Buzet). as well as tannins, the wine has a richly juicy char- 91 Wood aged for a year, this is a structured Domaine Berthoumieu 2018 Gloire de Virgile acter as well as powerful black fruits. Concentration wine from a selection of grapes across the appella- 88 (Madiran). This a dark and dense wine with and wood aging give the wine its potential, which tion. While still showing firm tannins, the wine also forward rich black fruits and solidly integrated tan- is not yet realized. Drink from 2022. Paul Hobbs has the potential for elegant richness and balance. It nins. It revels in its juicy, bold fruitiness and spice Selections. —R.V. will develop further and be ready from 2021. Serge flavors. Drink from 2021. Vintage Imports, Inc.Best abv: 14% Price: $45 Doré Selections. —R.V. Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $39 abv: 15% Price: $12 Château Lagrézette 2017 Cuvée Marguerite 92 Massaut (Cahors). Of course, this wine is Vignerons de Buzet 2018 Volupie (Buzet). A still young, but it has great potential. Rich, packed 87 wine that is all about ripe black fruits, bold CÔTES DE GASCOGNE with black fruits and with a smoky background, the tannins and a light touch structure. The wine has an wine has weight, density and a fine future with its immediately appealing freshness at the end. Drink Lionel Osmin & Cie 2019 Tannat Sans Soufre black plum skin and acidity well in balance. Drink now. Suitable for vegans. Serge Doré Selections. 91 Tannat (Côtes de Gascogne). From the south- from 2022. First Growth Brands. —R.V. —R.V. west Gascony region and bottled without sulfur, abv: 14% Price: $70 abv: 14% Price: $14 this wine has bold black fruits, ripe tannins and concentration. It is a rich wine, still a little young, Château Vincens 2018 Prestige (Cahors). but with a potential that will soon be realized. Drink 91 Grapes grown on the high terraces above the SAINT MONT this solid, firm wine from 2021. Vintage Imports, River Lot and oak aged are the source of this ripe Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. wine. Its tannins speak of youth, and the wine with Secret Vines 2016 The Original Tannat (Saint abv: 14% Price: $17 its dark black fruits does need to age to smooth out 91 Mont). For full review see page 17. Editors’ the structure and let the blackberry flavors and Choice. Plaimont 2018 Domaine de Cassaigne Grand acidity speak. Drink from 2023. DHI Selections. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 90 Vin (Côtes de Gascogne). This wine’s unique —R.V. blend includes a small percentage of Manseng Noir, abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Plaimont 2017 Cloche Bleue (Saint Mont). a grape that has recently been rediscovered and 89 Dominated by Tannat, this is a richly struc- propagated by the Producteurs Plaimont. The wine Château Vincens 2017 Prestige (Cahors). tured wine. Its bold fruits are full-bodied, edged is smoothly textured and spicy, with a smoky edge 90 This blend of Malbec with some Merlot is a with pepper and with generous blackberry flavors. and rich juiciness. It’s immediately attractive, gen- rich, oak-aged and still young wine. Its dark tannins The wine is just ready to drink. Brickell Wines LLC. erous and ready to drink. Brickell Wines LLC. —R.V. and powerful tarry texture are lifted by the acidity —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $18 and rich black plum flavors. Drink from 2022. DHI abv: 14% Price: $16 Selections. —R.V. Plaimont 2019 Big Born in Gascony Merlot- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 87 Tannat (Côtes de Gascogne). This wine is all about fruitiness and fresh stalkiness. Juicy and packed with red berry flavors, it will benefit from

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 being enjoyed slightly chilled. Drink now. Brickell further. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Edi- 100% Marsanne sourced from three different sites Wines LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. tors’ Choice. —A.I. in Hermitage, it’s opulent but fresh and etched by abv: 13% Price: $11 abv: 14% Price: $105 notes of walnut, pastry and dried ginger. Fermented and aged only partially in oak, it’s an unusually pre- M. Chapoutier 2016 De l’Orée (Hermit- cise expression of Hermitage that should gain com- OTHER RED WINES 96 age). Wisps of tea leaves and caramelized plexity over the next decades. Terlato Wines Inter- honey swirl into freshly pressed apple and pear in national. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. Maison Bertrand Ravache 2019 Aligança this complex, elegant Marsanne. While intensely abv: 14% Price: $130 90 (Gaillac). A typical Gaillac blend of Mer- ripe and unctuous in mouthfeel, it’s a remarkably lot, Braucol, Syrah and , this bright wine has pure sip brightened by soft tangerine acidity and a M. Chapoutier 2016 Le Méal (Hermitage). structure and a fine spice and black fruit flavor. bristling mineral finish. Although enticing young, it 95 Initial notes of smoke and earth dissipate Juicy and full of enticing acidity, the wine is sure to should develop more earthen, honeyed complexities with aeration to reveal perfumed notes of quince, be ready from 2021. Evaki Imports Inc. —R.V. over the next decades. Terlato Wines International. ginger and pear. It’s a rich, expansive white made abv: 13% Price: $25 Cellar Selection. —A.I. from 100-year-old Marsanne grapes grown on the abv: 14% Price: $160 chalk and alluvial soils of the Le Méal vineyard. In Lionel Osmin & Cie 2018 Fer de Soif Mansois youth, it offers pristine orchard fruit and spice, but 88 (Marcillac). From the foothills of the Mas- M. Chapoutier 2016 L’Ermite (Hermitage). it’s a wine that’s better left till 2022 at least. It will sif Central mountains in central France, this wine 96 Enticingly smoky, spicy notes of caramel reward cellaring for decades. 300 cases produced. celebrates a small appellation and its unique grape and honey mingle into plump yellow plum, quince Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —A.I. variety. Delightfully rustic, the wine is fruity, with and apple in this decadently textured Marsanne. abv: 13.5% Price: $190 bright red berry flavors and a lightly stalky tex- Chapoutier’s flagship Hermitage Blanc, it’s a lus- ture. It is young, bright and ready to drink. Vintage cious white matured on lees for 10 months in 100% Cave de Tain 2017 Au Coeur des Siècles Selec- Imports, Inc. —R.V. new oak. The finish is marked by hints of earth, 94 tion Parcellaire (Hermitage). For full review abv: 13% Price: $15 bramble and walnut. Lovely already but best to see page 6. hold till 2026—it will improve for decades. Terlato abv: 14% Price: $97 Domaine Fabien Castaing 2018 Domaine de Wines International. Cellar Selection. —A.I. 87 Moulin-Pouzy (Bergerac). A blend of Merlot abv: 14% Price: $260 Domaine Belle 2017 Hermitage. Sunny yel- and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is soft, ripe and juicy, 94 low apple and pear introduce this opulent, There is a lightly smoky character to go with the Christelle Betton 2017 Arpège (Hermitage). intensely concentrated blend of organic Marsanne red currant and bright acidity. This is an attractive 95 Made from 100% Marsanne, this buxom (60%) and Roussanne (40%), sourced from sandy wine that is ready to drink now. Lanterna Distribu- dry white offers penetrating pear and tangerine limestone soils. While dry in style, it’s an unctu- tors Inc. —R.V. flavors swirled with honey and cream. Fermented ously honeyed white, peppered by oak inflections of abv: 14.5% Price: $16 and aged in oak, it’s an expansive but stately sip vanilla and biscuit. An open-knit but elegant wine that finishes on lingering hints of tea tannins and that’s approachable in youth but will develop savory Lionel Osmin & Cie 2016 Le Pouvoir des dried flower petals. Lovely already but should gain complexities for decades. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Edi- 86 Fleurs (Fronton). Intensely floral, this wine, earthier complexities through 2037. North Berkeley tors’ Choice. —A.I. mainly of Négrette with a touch of Syrah, is per- Imports. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $60 fumed with blackberry flavors and a crisp texture abv: 14% Price: $NA that gives the wine freshness to balance the fruiti- Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet 2016 ness. Drink now. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V. Delas Frères 2017 Domaine des Tourettes 94 Hermitage. Fresh apple, lemon and quince abv: 12% Price: $15 95 (Hermitage). Delicate notes of white blos- are pure and pristine in this freshly composed som and Asian pear introduce this rich, profoundly 100% Roussanne sourced from loess soils. Despite Maison Bertrand Ravache 2019 Origine 1749 textural blend of 90% Marsanne and 10% Rous- being fermented and matured in oak (50% new), 85 Merlot-Malbec (Périgord). With its farm- sanne sourced from three different plots in Her- it’s a remarkably precise, focused expression of yard aroma, this is a rustic wine. It has red fruits mitage. Fermented in oak for 9–12 months, it’s a Hermitage that should gain more depth and nuance that come through the funky character, and they creamy, delicately spiced sip but refreshingly min- with age. Best to hold through 2021—it’s a wine may prevail. Drink from 2021. Evaki Imports Inc. eral, too. It’s enticing in youth but will improve that’s likely to improve through 2036 at least. Fred- —R.V. over the next two decades. Maisons Marques & erick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $25 Domaines USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $90 abv: 15% Price: $105 Gabriel Meffre 2017 Laurus (Hermitage). RHÔNE VALLEY Ferraton Père et Fils 2017 Le Reverdy (Her- 94 Fresh apple and pineapple flavors are 95 mitage). Radiant red apple and quince are swathed in honey and cream in this soft but freshly WHITE WINES accented by spring blossoms, hazelnut and honey balanced dry white. Made from 100% Marsanne in this luscious blend of Marsanne and Roussanne fermented and aged in barrel, it’s a rich, lavish wine HERMITAGE sourced from Les Beaumes and Le Méal in Hermit- that lingers on notes of vanilla, honeysuckle and age. Fermented and aged in oak, it’s a dramatically sweet spice. Stunning in its youth but should gain Delas Frères 2016 Domaine des Tourettes textural, creamy sip that lingers long on notes of complexity for decades. Vision Wine & Spirits. Edi- 96 (Hermitage). Buoyant aromas of marma- nougat and caramel. Delightful already but should tors’ Choice. —A.I. lade, caramel and smoke accent pert yellow apple gain earthier complexities for decades. Sera Wine abv: 13.5% Price: $60 and pineapple here. A barrel-fermented blend of Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. Marsanne (90%) and Roussanne (10%), it’s volu- abv: 14% Price: $90 Gabriel Meffre 2016 Laurus (Hermitage). minous and stately with a waxy, undulating mouth- 94 Burnt caramel, vanilla and spice lend feel freshened by a tangy mineral crush. It’s matur- M. Chapoutier 2017 Chante-Alouette (Her- warmth to this rich, creamy Marsanne. Tangerine ing beautifully, gaining gorgeously honeyed, earthen 95 mitage). Initially restrained aromas of tart acidity on the palate is sunny and soft but aug- tones, but should continue to improve for a decade apple and smoke subside with aeration to reveal mented by a fresh mineral tone. It’s a hedonistic, vibrant pear, quince and tangerine. Made from voluptuous sip that’s welcoming in youth but likely

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BUYINGGUIDE to age beautifully for decades. Vision Wine & Spir- Ferraton Père et Fils 2017 Le Grand Courtil Domaine Melody 2017 Chaos Blanc (Crozes- its. —A.I. 90 (Crozes-Hermitage). Fresh grapefruit acid- 88 Hermitage). While herbaceous and bram- abv: 13% Price: $60 ity lifts softer notes of yellow apple, pear and tan- bly on the nose, this blend of 70% Roussanne and gerine in this sunny, medium-bodied white. Juicy 30% Marsanne offers bright apple and pear flavors. Ferraton Père et Fils 2017 Les Miaux (Hermit- and forward yet refreshingly dry and mineral, it’s It’s a rich, generous sip that’s been fermented and 93 age). Wisps of fresh yellow apple, pear and drinking at peak now but should hold through 2023. matured in wood. An elegant wine that finishes on lemon penetrate this delightfully silken Marsanne. Sera Wine Imports. —A.I. lingering notes of cream and smoked nut. Best now– Accented by hints of walnut skin and ginger, it’s a abv: 13.5% Price: $25 2024. American B.D. —A.I. concentrated sip with a juicy, enveloping palate. abv: 13% Price: $25 Quite lovely in its youth but should gain complexity François Villard 2017 Cour de Recre (Crozes- through 2030. Sera Wine Imports. —A.I. 90 Hermitage). Skeins of caramel, smoke and Jean-Claude et Nicolas Fayolle 2017 La abv: 14% Price: $75 hazelnut mingle into tangerine and yellow pear in 88 Rochette (Crozes-Hermitage). Salted cara- this rich, rounded 100% Marsanne. It’s a luscious, mel notes lend spice to fresh apple and pear in this Jean-Claude et Nicolas Fayolle 2017 Les Dion- yogurt-tipped sip lifted by a fresh mineral under- full-bodied 100% Marsanne. It’s a richly textured, 92 nières (Hermitage). Initial impressions are tone. At peak now but should hold through 2025. pleasantly waxy sip that finishes on a bite of tea smoky and restrained, but a bit of aeration brings Jack Edwards Collection. —A.I. tannins. At peak now. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. out zesty lemon and yellow apple tones here. Made abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 13% Price: $25 from 100% Marsanne aged seven months in old bar- riques, it’s a vibrantly fruity, fresh-footed expres- Pierre le Grand 2017 Crozes-Hermitage. Laurent Habrard 2017 Grand Classique sion of Hermitage. The finish is marked by a crisp, 90 Whiffs of candlewax and hazelnut accent 88 (Crozes-Hermitage).­ Unoaked, pristine tan- mineral lift. Ready now but should hold through delicate apple and lemon in this full-bodied, juicy gerine and pear flavors take center stage in this full- 2027. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. white, a blend of 60% Marsanne and 40% Rous- bodied blend of Marsanne (90%) and Roussanne abv: 13.5% Price: $30 sanne. The palate showcases crisp yellow pear flavor (10%) sourced from loess and granite soils. It’s a edged with crushed stone and salt. Best now–2024. juicy, easy-drinking dry white accented by hints of Misa Imports. —A.I. bramble and underbrush. At peak now but should CROZES-HERMITAGE abv: 13% Price: $25 hold through 2022. Vin de Frog. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $25 Domaine du Colombier 2017 Cuvée Gaby Domaine de la Ville Rouge 2017 Cuvée 91 (Crozes-Hermitage). Layers of smoked nut, 89 Nathan (Crozes-Hermitage). Perfumed NewRhône Millesimes 2017 Romain Duver- vanilla and caramel swaddle fresh yellow apple and notes of white blossoms and anise accent pert yel- 88 nay (Crozes-Hermitage). Delicate notes of pear in this very lavish oak-aged Marsanne. It’s a low plums and apples here. A blend of Marsanne crushed mineral and smoked hazelnut accent fresh full-bodied, richly textured wine that’s pleasant (70%) and Roussanne (30%) grown in alluvial apple and pear in this full-bodied, freshly composed in youth for its pert orchard-fruit flavors but has soils, it’s a plump, softly textured sip with sunny, white. It’s not deeply concentrated, but it is thirst- a concentration and density that suggests it should citrus acidity. The finish lingers on hints of tea leaf quenching. The pristine finish is accentuated by a age even better. Approachable now but should and cinnamon. At peak now. Ripe Wine Imports. salty, margarita-rim tang. At peak now but should improve through 2030. Cape Classics. Cellar Selec- —A.I. hold through 2022. Z Wine Gallery Imports. —A.I. tion. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $50 Fayolle Fils & Fille 2017 Crozes-Hermitage. Domaine les 4 Vents 2017 La Rage (Crozes- 89 Charred underbrush and bramble lend LIRAC 91 Hermitage). A fascinating comparison to the savory contrast to plump, juicy yellow plum and producer’s 100% Roussanne Les Pitchounettes, La grapefruit here. A blend of Marsanne (60%) and Domaine de la Mordorée 2018 La Reine des Rage is made from 100% Marsanne and highlights Roussanne (40%) vinified and matured in stainless 93 Bois (Lirac). Plumes of spring blossom and the grape’s fresh floral and crisp red apple perfume. steel, it’s a refreshingly fruity, sunny dry white. Best grapefruit zest perfume this exuberant dry white. A It’s a full-bodied, lavishly textural wine that’s crys- enjoyed now–2023. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.I. rich, full-bodied blend of six regional white grape talline and mineral. At peak now but should hold abv: 13.5% Price: $25 varieties, it’s buoyantly peachy but maintains a through 2023. Krewe du Bizou Wines. —A.I. fresh mineral balance. At peak now but should hold abv: 13.8% Price: $25 Olivier Dumaine 2017 La Croix du Verre through 2024. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. 89 (Crozes-Hermitage). Hints of salted cara- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Domaine les 4 Vents 2017 Les Pitchounettes mel, yellow apple and pear introduce this 100% 90 (Crozes-Hermitage). Perfumed notes of Marsanne. Full-bodied and lusciously waxy on the Domaine Maby 2018 Casta Diva (Lirac). A preserved quince and tangerine introduce this juicy, palate, it’s a creamy sip with soft, sunny acidity but 92 blend of 60% Viognier and 40% Grenache freshly balanced Roussanne. It’s full-bodied and it’s lifted by a fresh mineral finish. Best now–2023. Blanc, this richly textured white balances the opu- voluptuous but anchored by sunny lemon acidity Chloe Wine Collection. —A.I. lence of oak-fermented Viognier with the peachy and a lingering salty finish. Lovely now but should abv: 14% Price: $25 freshness of Grenache Blanc. Whiffs of vanilla and hold through 2023. Nomadic Distribution. —A.I. smoke are prominent on the nose but integrate abv: 13% Price: $25 Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2017 Crozes-Hermitage. neatly on the palate. The finish is subtle and quite 89 While subdued and earthen on the nose, elegant. At peak now but should drink well through Domaine Mucyn 2017 Les Charmeuses delicate apple and pear notes gain intensity on the 2024. DB Wine Selection. —A.I. 90 (Crozes-Hermitage).­ Waxy yellow apple and palate of this plush, open-knit Marsanne. Sourced abv: 14.5% Price: $NA pear flavors are freshly concentrated in this full- from alluvial soils and matured partially in oak, it’s bodied blend of 60% Marsanne and 40% Rous- a full-bodied, softly edged wine that finishes on Château d’Aqueria 2018 Lirac. Zesty, thirst- sanne sourced from sandy clay and loess soils. It’s lingering mineral tones. Best now–2023. Frederick 91 quenching grapefruit and white peach are lavishly textured, almost honeyed, on the palate but Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I. accented by hints of smoke and hazelnut in this balanced by tangy citrus acidity and a salty, mineral abv: 13.5% Price: $27 full-bodied white. An unoaked blend of five regional finish. Best now–2024. Margaux & Company. —A.I. white grape varieties, it’s a fruit-forward yet abv: 14% Price: $25

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 refreshingly mineral wine that’s best enjoyed young. nectarine flavors. It’s a subdued but refreshing wine doux naturel. Made from 100% Blanc à Kobrand. —A.I. best enjoyed young. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. Petits Grains, it’s sumptuously sweet but freshly abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $24 balanced. Enjoy young to maximize its vitality and perfume. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —A.I. Château de Montfaucon 2018 Comtesse Château de Manissy 2018 Trinité (Lirac). abv: 15% Price: $NA 90 Madeleine (Lirac). Bold proportions of 88 Intensely rocky mineral notes dominate Marsanne and Clairette (augmented by lesser pro- this pert, freshly balanced blend of Grenache Blanc, Domaine de la Pigeade 2018 Muscat de Beau- portions of Grenache Blanc and Picpoul) lend rich- Roussanne and Viognier. Lemon and apple flavors 91 mes de Venise. Elegant, subtle notes of hon- ness to pert pineapple and lemon flavors here. It’s are not deeply concentrated but crisp. The finish eydew and white peach are filigreed by fine shards a medium-bodied, juicy dry white that finishes on is thirst-quenching and clean. Weygandt-Metzler. of minerality in this concentrated, balanced vin a murmur of smoked nuts. At peak now but should —A.I. doux naturel. Juicy peach, apricot and honeysuckle hold through 2023. Maverick Selections. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 flavors are gorgeously concentrated but vibrant and abv: 13% Price: $NA pristine. A pleasantly sweet tipple with a fresh, Château le Devoy Martine 2018 Via Secreta mineral finish. Vitis Imports. —A.I. Château de Montfaucon 2017 Vin de 88 (Lirac). More stony minerality than overt abv: 15% Price: $18 90 Madame la Comtesse (Lirac). Made from fruit, this dry, medium-bodied white is an unoaked­ 99% Clairette with just 1% of Grenache, this is blend of equal parts Bourboulenc, Clairette, Gre­ Domaine la Ligière 2017 Chante Coucou (Mus- such a juicy, thirst-quenching expression of a white nache Blanc and Roussanne. Subtle citrus notes 91 cat de Beaumes de Venise). Intoxicating aro- Rhône wine. While fermented and aged en barrique, refresh the finish. Ready to drink now but welcomes mas of white peach, cantaloupe and honey explode the palate bursts of zesty pineapple and tanger- a bit of aeration before serving. Sacred Thirst Selec- from the glass of this decadent yet gorgeously bal- ine flavors before finishing on delicate whispers of tions. —A.I. anced vin doux naturel. It’s a penetrating, concen- sweet spice and vanilla. Best enjoyed young. Old abv: 13.5% Price: $NA trated wine packed with lip-smacking stone fruit World Import/Export. —A.I. flavor but finishes vibrantly on a kiss of white blos- abv: 14% Price: $37 Domaine des Carabiniers 2018 Lirac. While som. Best enjoyed young. AP Wine Imports. Editors’ 88 initially quite closed and earthen, aeration Choice. —A.I. Château de Ségriès 2017 Lirac. Chalky min- introduces crisp white peach and red apple notes abv: 15% Price: $32 90 eral tones highlight brisk pineapple and in this dry, full-bodied blend of Grenache Blanc white pear in this full-bodied but fresh dry white. (50%), Roussanne (25%) and Viognier (25%). It’s Gabriel Meffre 2017 Laurus (Muscat de Beau- A blend of Ugni Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne and not a deeply concentrated wine, but it is vital and 91 mes de Venise). A touch of caramelized sugar Picpoul, it’s juicy but elegant with a zesty, stony fin- fresh. At peak now–2023. —A.I. introduces this unctuous, lusciously concentrated ish. Best enjoyed young. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA vin doux naturel made from 100% Muscat Blanc abv: 14% Price: $24 à Petits Grains. Flavors of honey, white peach and Domaine Lafond 2018 Lirac. The nose is tangerine penetrate the palate and linger long and Domaine des Maravilhas 2018 Pradau 88 demure here but the palate offers crisp, cut- silky on the invigorating finish. Best enjoyed young. 90 (Lirac). Fresh white peach, pineapple ting yellow apple and pear flavors accented by tangs Vision Wine & Spirits. —A.I. and grapefruit abound in this thirst-quenching, of stony minerality. While full-bodied and plump in abv: 15% Price: $22/500 ml un­oaked blend of Grenache Blanc and Bourboulenc. mouthfeel, it’s a pertly balanced blend of Grenache Medium-bodied and briskly balanced, it finishes Blanc (50%), Roussanne (30%) and Viognier Ravoire et Fils 2018 Manon (Muscat de Beau- on bites of tart pineapple and thyme. Best through (20%) that should drink well through 2023. Alain 91 mes de Venise). While a touch spirity on the 2022. Biodynamic. —A.I. Junguenet Selection. —A.I. nose, intensely ripe honeydew and yellow peach fla- abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $NA vors maintain freshness on the palate of this silky, supple vin doux naturel. It’s a ripe, supple sip with Mas Isabelle 2018 Blanc Roc (Lirac). A touch Domaine Maby 2018 La Fermade (Lirac). balanced sweetness and an invigorating lift of hon- 90 of almond nougat lends richness to crisp 88 Delicate notes of crushed stone lend fresh- eysuckle perfume that lingers on the finish. Mon- pear and white peach in this full-bodied, textured ness to crisp yellow apple and pear flavors in this sieur Touton Selection Ltd. —A.I. blend of five regional white grape varieties. It’s a easy-drinking, unoaked blend of Grenache Blanc, abv: 15% Price: $NA generous, broad-shouldered dry white but main- Clairette and Picpoul. It’s full-bodied but briskly tains crisp tangerine acidity and a bristling mineral concentrated and finishes on a kick of sweet spice. Domaine des Bernardins 2018 Muscat de finish. Best through 2023. Ideal Wine and Spirits. Best enjoyed young. DB Wine Selection. —A.I. 90 Beaumes de Venise. Dusky pink in hue, this —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 blend of 75% white and 25% black Muscat à Petits abv: 14% Price: $NA Grains offers sunny peach and blood orange flavors Vignobles Assemat 2018 Lirac. Bright yellow edged by a touch of aperol-like bitterness. It’s lus- Château de Bouchassy 2018 Eglantine 88 apple and pear extend from nose to finish ciously sweet, even a touch marmalade like, but bal- 89 (Lirac). Bright, juicy pineapple and tanger- in this juicy, fruit-forward dry white. Unoaked and anced alcohol and fresh acidity lead a vibrant finish. ine flavors are etched by veins of crushed earth in unadorned, it’s an easy-drinking, crisply composed Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. this full-bodied but zesty dry white. Unoaked and wine best enjoyed young. Terroirs Wine Export. abv: 15% Price: $20 pristine, it’s a blend of Grenache (40%), Clairette —A.I. (30%), Roussanne (15%) and Viognier (15%) with abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Domaine de Fenouillet 2018 Muscat de a pert citrus finish. Ready to drink now. Gifted 88 Beaumes de Venise. While a touch spirity Grape. —A.I. MUSCAT DE BEAUMES on the nose, whiffs of green herbs and white blos- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA soms carry nicely onto the palate of this profoundly DE VENISE fruity Muscat. Yellow peach and pineapple flavors Domaine Corne-Loup 2018 Lirac. Dusty are a touch syrupy, but balanced alcohol and a lift of 89 mineral tones are demure on the nose ini- Arnoux & Fils 2018 Tresor du Clocher (Mus- minerality lend freshness on the finish. Rosenthal tially, but the palate of this full-bodied, juicy blend 92 cat de Beaumes de Venise). Perfumed notes Wine Merchant. —A.I. of Gre­nache Blanc (40%), Roussanne (30%) and of white peach and honeysuckle introduce this abv: 15% Price: $23 Viognier (30%) offers cutting pineapple and white intensely fruity but pure, almost crystalline vin

WINEMAG.COM | 53

BUYINGGUIDE

RhonéA 2018 Carte Or (Muscat de Beau- should hold further. Sera Wine Imports. Editors’ violet perfume this freshly concentrated Syrah made 88 mes de Venise). Silken, succulent yellow Choice. —A.I. from destemmed grapes and vinified with native peach and marmalade flavors undulate on the pal- abv: 13% Price: $85 yeast. It’s a refreshingly classic, spry expression of ate of this slightly syrupy vin doux naturel. It’s an Côte Rôtie compared with increasingly richer, riper intensely fruity sip with a properly sweet but bal- Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux 2017 ones. The long finish is marked by velvet, persistent anced finish. Metrowine Distribution. —A.I. 94 La Germine (Côte-Rôtie). La Germine is tannins. Lovely already but should improve through abv: 15% Price: $28 this producer’s midrange Côte Rôtie offering rely- 2027. Martine’s Wines. —A.I. ing on older vines than La Chana, and a touch less abv: 13% Price: $55 RhonéA 2018 Domaine du Paparotier new oak than the Maison Rouge. It’s a gorgeously 88 (Muscat de Beaumes de Venise). Intensely pure-fruited expression of cassis and black - Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux 2017 peachy from nose to finish, this supple vin doux ries edged by perfumed notes of lilac, dried thyme 93 Maison Rouge (Côte-Rôtie). Hints of toast, naturel made from 100% Muscat Blanc à Petits and anise. Intensely concentrated and silken on the cinnamon and bramble mingle into ripe black rasp- Grains offers concentrated, honeyed sweetness off- finish, it’s lovely young but should improve through berry and cassis flavors here. Matured 20 months en set by a touch of earthen minerality. Metrowine Dis- 2030 and hold further still. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. barrique (40% new), it’s a softly edged, delicately tribution. —A.I. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. textured sip that falls on smooth, feathery tannins. abv: 15% Price: $18/375 ml abv: 13% Price: $90 Approachable in youth but should gain complexity through 2030. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. Domaine Christophe Billon 2017 Les Elotins abv: 13% Price: $125 RHÔNE VALLEY 94 (Côte-Rôtie). Whispers of fur, charcute- rie and smoke lend savory complexity to luminous Domaine de Bonserine 2017 La Sarrasine RED WINES cassis and mulberry flavors here. A blend of 97% 93 (Côte-Rôtie). A blend of Syrah (and 3% Syrah and 3% Viognier sourced from schist and Viognier) sourced from seven different plots of CÔTE-RÔTIE mica slopes, it’s boasts a gleaming acidic spine and Côte Rôtie, this is a slender, silken sip packed with fresh, mineral undertone that are revitalizing. Rich, juicy black raspberry and cherry flavors. It’s an Domaine Christophe Pichon 2017 La Com- chewy tannins should meld with time and while immediately approachable, fresh-fruited wine but 96 tesse en Côte Blonde (Côte-Rôtie). Packed appealing already, it’s a wine that should peak from maintains classic nuances of smoke, bacon fat and with pristine black cherry and raspberry flavor, 2021–2030 hold further still. Fass Selections. Edi- crushed earth. The finish is marked by fine, feath- this medium-bodied Syrah is a gloriously perfumed tors’ Choice. —A.I. ery tannins. Best now–2030. Frederick Wildman & expression of Côte Blonde. It’s sunny and charm- abv: 13.5% Price: $55 Sons, Ltd. —A.I. ing in fruit profile but elevated by subtle hints of abv: 13% Price: $75 fur, crushed earth and charred bramble, too. While Domaine Christophe Pichon 2017 Rozier tempting in its youth, it should gain complexity 94 (Côte-Rôtie). Sourced from 50-year-old Domaine Martin Clerc 2017 Collet (Côte- well past 2030. Wade & Clark Wine Imports. Cellar vines planted on schist soils, this is a gloriously 93 Rôtie). Intensely ripe, luscious cassis and Selection. —A.I. concentrated Syrah packed with luminous cas- mulberry flavors maintain the same perfumed, spicy abv: 13% Price: $85 sis and blackberry flavors. Prominent oak tones of tone of this producer’s Coteau de Tupin bottling, smoke, vanilla and cacao are balanced by pristine but there’s a breathtaking freshness here accentu- Domaine Martin Clerc 2017 Coteau de Tupin fruit and a bristling acidic edge. It’s lovely in its ated by a pleasantly green, herbaceous tone. It’s a 95 (Côte-Rôtie). Radiant notes of black rasp- youth but should develop depth and complexity moderately full-bodied, freshly concentrated sip berry and black-cherry preserves are accentuated through 2030 and hold further still. Wade & Clark that finishes on fine, feathery tannins. Ready now by complexities of violet, crushed granite and clove Wine Imports. —A.I. but should hold through 2030. Shiverick Imports. in this pure-fruited, supple wine. Matured for 18 abv: 13% Price: $50 —A.I. months en barrique (20% new), it’s a hedonistic, abv: 13.5% Price: $66 spicy sip but briskly structured, too, held upright by Ravoire et Fils 2017 Olivier Ravoire (Côte- piercing acidity and firm, gripping tannins. Lovely 94 Rôtie). Pronounced violet perfume accents Domaine Benjamin et David Duclaux 2017 La already but should improve through 2030 and hold blackberry and black currant flavors in this satin- 92 Chana (Côte-Rôtie). Sourced from young further. Shiverick Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. edged Syrah. Matured for 18 months in new and Syrah vines (15–20 years old) planted on a bedrock abv: 13.8% Price: $71 one-year-old French oak, it’s a lavish wine streaked of gneiss, this is a fresh, pertly composed red. Black by veins of vanilla and smoke but crisp acidity and a currant and cassis flavors are pure and pristine, Ferraton Père et Fils 2017 L’Eglantine (Côte- flurry of green herbs lend freshness to the mid pal- edged by whispers of anise and black pepper and 95 Rôtie). Pronounced notes of char and vanilla ate. Firm, gripping tannins need some time to meld fine, feathery tannins. A youthful, vibrant style of but also fur and black olive perfume this complex, but it should be at peak from 2021–2030. Wine Côte Rôtie to enjoy now–2030. Fruit of the Vines, intriguing Syrah. Blackberry and cherry flavors are Warehouse Imports. —A.I. Inc. —A.I. sultry on the palate but offset by tart cassis acidity abv: 13% Price: $80 abv: 13% Price: $80 and a bristling granitic finish. At peak 2021–2030 but should hold further. Sera Wine Imports. Edi- Vignobles Verzier 2017 Indiscrète (Côte- Gabriel Meffre 2017 Laurus (Côte-Rôtie). A tors’ Choice. —A.I. 94 Rôtie). Savory, herbaceous notes of dried 92 balanced blend of Côte Brune’s power and abv: 13% Price: $60 violets, bramble and charred underbrush lend Côte Blonde’s sunny charm, this medium-bodied elegance to ripe, restrained black cherry and cas- but luscious Syrah calibrates smoky, slightly meaty Ferraton Père et Fils 2017 Montmain (Côte- sis here. This is a slender, sylphlike Syrah with a complexities against pristine blackberry and rasp- 95 Rôtie). A cooling spine of granite lends pert acidic spine and slightly green tannins that berry flavor. It’s a juicy, immediately enjoyable wine freshness to pristinely ripe black currant and rasp- lend a peppery bite to the finish. Should reach peak accentuated by soft, feathery tannins and a linger- berry flavors here. It’s a delicate, finessed Syrah— from 2021–2030 but hold longer as well. Beaune ing whisper of ore. At peak through 2030. Vision more ballerina than powerhouse—but penetrating Imports. —A.I. Wine & Spirits. —A.I. in fruit. Whispers of smoke, licorice and peppery abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $63 herbs linger on the finish. At peak 2021–2030 but Domaine B. Burgaud 2017 Côte-Rôtie. Louis Bernard 2017 Côte-Rôtie. Entic- 93 Intriguing whiffs of fur, charred earth and 92 ing notes of rose petal, charred earth and

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 underbrush accent intensely ripe, glossy cassis Éric & Jöel Durand 2017 Confidence (Cornas). ready to enjoy in its youth but should hold through in this slim, spry Côte Rôtie. It’s intensely ripe 94 Whispers of leather saddle, charred earth 2027. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. but freshly balanced and finishes on pert, upright and smoke penetrate this uniquely rustic Syrah aged abv: 13.5% Price: $32 tannins. Ready to approach now but should hold 18 months in 30% new barriques. Flavors of black through 2027. —A.I. plum and blueberry preserves are intensely concen- abv: 13% Price: $NA trated but freshened by a firm, granitic undertone VINSOBRES and coarse tannins. Approachable now but should improve through 2030. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. Chateau MontPlaisir 2017 Expressions (Vin- CORNAS abv: 13.5% Price: $51 91 sobres). A fresh, invigorating blend of Syrah (60%) and Grenache (40%), this pert, firmly tan- Domaine Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet 2016 Ferraton Père et Fils 2017 Patou (Cornas). nic red offers a structured, elegant expression of 95 Cornas. Hints of bramble, cacao and anise 94 Whiffs of violet candy and licorice lend gor- Vinsobres. Blackberry and cherry flavors are crisp lend spice to penetrating blackberry and blueberry geous perfume to mulberry and cassis here. Made and cutting, etched by bold strikes of garrigue and here. Sourced from high-altitude granite soils, it’s from Syrah sourced from a fully south facing, gran- a lingering minerality. It’s approachable now but a vibrant, freshly composed Syrah. Two years of ite slope, it’s decadently ripe but luminous. Rich, likely to improve through 2027. Amphorium LLC. maturation in oak barrels (50% new) accentuate ripe tannins envelope a long, penetrating finish. —A.I. its rounded mouthfeel and fine-grained, softly tan- Approachable already but should improve through abv: 13.5% Price: $NA nic finish. Should improve through 2037 and hold 2030 and hold further. Sera Wine Imports. —A.I. further. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 Domaine Constant-Duquesnoy 2017 Vinso- abv: 13.5% Price: $70 91 bres. Mouthfilling licorice and cassis flavors Cave de Tain 2017 Arènes Sauvages (Cor- mark this sexy, hedonistic blend of Grenache (60%) Ferraton Père et Fils 2017 Les Eygats (Cor- 93 nas). Maturation in new French oak lends and Syrah (40%). Aged brieflyen barrique, it’s 95 nas). Radiantly ripe black plum and black prominent accents of char, vanilla and nutmeg to luminously fruity but shaded by whispers of char- cherry notes are muted by hints of earth, leather this glossy, black fruited Syrah. It’s a flamboyant, cuterie, clove and smoke. Full-bodied and glossy in and ore in this richly tannic, mouthfilling wine intensely luscious sip packed with crème de cassis tannins, it’s an immediately inviting wine to enjoy sourced from high-altitude sites above the village and mulberry flavors, but precisely composed, too. through 2027. Paul M. Young Fine Wines. —A.I. of Cornas. It’s glossy, perfumed style is enticing in Youthful fruit flavors are immediately hedonistic, abv: 15% Price: $24 its youth but should show even better from 2022 but the coarse, gripping tannins should meld better and improve well through 2037. Sera Wine Imports. through 2030. Hand Picked Selections. —A.I. Pierre Amadieu 2017 Les Piallats (Vinso- Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $100 90 bres). Sourced from Grenache and Syrah abv: 13.5% Price: $55 grown on the northern heights of Vinsobres, this NewRhône Millesimes 2017 Romain Duver- full-bodied but invigorating red offers zesty black- Ferraton Père et Fils 2017 Les Grands Mûri- 93 nay (Cornas). Roasted plum and black cherry berry and cherry flavors. It’s lavishly fruity but 95 ers (Cornas). Pure, unadulterated cassis compote are accented by whiffs of sweet spice and accented by layers of wild thyme, mint and earth. and blackberry extend from nose to finish in this autumn leaves in this powerfully concentrated The finish is velvety and lingers on a warming touch intensely concentrated Syrah. Made from partially Syrah. Moderately full in body, it’s opulent but sub- of vanilla. Ready now but should drink well through destemmed grapes, it’s rich and glossy but shaded tly earthen, too, and finishes on ripe, mouthfilling 2025. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. by hints of dark earth, granite and leather. Ripe, tannins. Approachable already yet should improve abv: 14.5% Price: $20 integrated tannins seem coated in cocoa pow- through 2027. Z Wine Gallery Imports. —A.I. der and chalk. Approachable already but should abv: 13.5% Price: $60 Cellier des Dauphins 2017 Crus des Côtes du improve through 2030 and hold further. Sera Wine 89 Rhône Vinsobres (Vinsobres). This is a rich, Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. Domaine des Remizières 2017 Cornas. This is velvety blend of Grenache (65%) and Syrah (35%) abv: 13.5% Price: $62 92 a bit closed upon opening, suggesting more accented by perfumed notes of cacao, violet and her- earth and smoke than fruit, but some time and aera- bes de Provence. Black cherry and plum flavors are Alain Voge 2016 Les Vieilles Fontaines (Cor- tion coax out ripe, rich notes of black cherry and lusciously concentrated, leading into a long, softly 94 nas). Whispers of violet, licorice and gran- plum compote. It’s a soft, fleshy Cornas accented by tannic finish. A glossy, supple wine that’s ready now ite extend from nose to finish in this moderately hints of smoked nut and leather anise and coated but is structured enough to enjoy through 2025. full, succulent red. It’s a gloriously ripe, finessed in soft, yielding tannins. Approachable now but Plume Ridge. —A.I. expression of 80-year-old Syrah planted on gra- should hold through 2027. French Libation. —A.I. abv: NA Price: $20 nitic slopes. Plump and penetrating, it finishes on abv: 14% Price: $60 chalky, mouthfilling tannins. Quite lovely in youth Maison François-Xavier Nicolas 2017 but should improve through 2027. Citadel Trading. Éric & Jöel Durand 2017 Empreintes (Cornas). 89 Réserves des Quatre Seigneurs (Vinsobres). —A.I. 92 Flavors of spicy black cherry compote and Dark and brooding, this ripe, ruddy blend of Gre­ abv: 14.5% Price: $165 baked plums abound in this rich, almost fleshy nache and Syrah offers densely concentrated black expression of Cornas. Aged in 20% new barriques, cherry and plum flavors accented by char, smoke Domaine Christophe Pichon 2017 Allégorie it’s a soft, open-knit Syrah framed by silky tannins and earth. Full-bodied and lusciously textured, it’s 94 (Cornas). Sourced from Syrah grown on and lingering whiffs of earth and scorched under- a rich, tannic wine that’s appealing in youth but high-altitude granite slopes, this moderately full- brush. Approachable now but should hold through structured enough to enjoy through 2025. MHW, bodied, silken wine offers scintillating black plum 2027. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. Ltd. —A.I. and cassis flavors edged by smoke, earth and iron. abv: 13.5% Price: $39 abv: 14.5% Price: $18 It’s a rich, satisfying wine that’s briskly balanced in acidity and framed by fine, penetrating tannins. Éric & Jöel Durand 2017 Prémices (Cornas). Domaine Autrand 2017 Vinsobres. Brood- Lovely already but should gain complexity through 92 Ripe, luminous plum preserve and cas- 88 ing, heady notes of baked plum and pre- 2030. Wade & Clark Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. sis liqueur abound in this supple oak-aged Syrah. served cherry introduce this powerhouse blend of —A.I. Sourced from younger vines (15–30 years old), it’s a equal parts Grenache and Syrah. It’s a rich, densely abv: 14% Price: $60 fresher, more primary expression of Cornas than the textured wine marked by intense layers of thyme, producer’s Confidence or Empreintes bottlings. It’s

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BUYINGGUIDE sage and bramble. The finish is marked by a kiss of producer’s standard bottling. A luscious sip that Domaine les Evigneaux 2017 Rasteau. warmth. At peak now–2025. Misa Imports. —A.I. finishes long on fine-grained, penetrating tannins. 92 Produced by the Lavau family, this is an abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Ready now but should hold through 2028. Saranty intensely concentrated, lavish blend of Grenache, Imports. —A.I. Syrah, , Cinsault and Mourvèdre sourced abv: 14.5% Price: $25 from a diversity of Rasteau terroirs. Flavors of plum RASTEAU compote and blackberry preserves are accented by Domaine Beau Mistral 2018 La Bastide Saint anise, smoke and granite tones. The finish is framed Brunel Père et Fils 2017 Château de la Gar- 92 Martin (Rasteau). There’s a refreshing by firm, persistent tannins. Ready now but should 93 dine (Rasteau). Vibrant black cherry and restraint to this full-bodied but mineral-focused drink well through 2030. Kinson The Future of plum preserves are etched by veins of dusty mineral blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Black- Wine. —A.I. and earth in this voluptuous but vibrantly balanced berry and cassis flavors are luscious but pristine, abv: 14.5% Price: $30 red. A blend of 75% Grenache and 25% Syrah, it’s framed by dark earth tones and a lifting spray of peppery and focused, finishing on fine, firm tannins acidity. An elegant, invigorating expression of Ras- La Font de Notre Dame 2017 La Source (Ras- and a kick of acidity. Should improve through 2027. teau that’s ready to drink now–2028. The Wine 92 teau). While the nose is quiet, the palate Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. Source. —A.I. of this Grenache-dominant blend explodes with abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $NA lip-smacking black plum and blueberry flavors. It’s unabashedly juicy and fruity but hints of savory Domaine Brusset 2018 La Bastide (Rasteau). Domaine de Verquiere 2017 Rasteau. This is thyme and sweet spice lend complexity. Ready now 93 Bramble and charred garrigue accent ripe, 92 a glossy, succulent blend of Grenache (70%) but should hold through 2027. Cynthia Hurley Wine tangy blackberry and boysenberry in this invigorat- and Syrah (30%) assembled from two distinct ter- Imports. —A.I. ing blend of Grenache and Mourvèdre. It’s a leaner, roirs in Rasteau. Mulberry and cassis flavors are abv: 14.5% Price: $22 brisker expression of Rasteau that finishes on a concentrated and plush but edged by hints of earth, bold, minerally tone. Lovely now but should drink garrigue and cacao powder. An elegant but hedonis- Lavau 2017 Rasteau. Earthen notes of well through 2030. MS Walker. Editors’ Choice. tic sip to enjoy now–2030. French Libation. —A.I. 92 crushed stone and dried porcini lend com- —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $NA plexity to ripe, luscious blackberry and cassis fla- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA vors. A blend of equal parts Grenache and Syrah, it’s Domaine des Escaravailles 2017 La Ponce plump and intensely fruity but balanced by fresh Domaine de l’Espigouette 2017 Rasteau. A 92 Rhône-style Red Blend (Rasteau). Bold notes acidity and a pleasantly bitter rim of minerality on 93 blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvè- of olive and thyme mingle into cassis and plum on the finish. Best now–2027. Kinson The Future of dre, this bright, lusciously fruity wine offers con- the nose of this seductive, sultry blend of Grenache Wine. —A.I. centrated cassis flavors edged by bramble, crushed (80%) and Syrah (20%). It’s gloriously ripe but abv: 14% Price: $NA stone and peppery spice. It’s full-bodied but freshly elegant structured by strikes of fresh acidity and composed, and the finish is marked by fine-grained, a firm mineral finish. Drinks well now but should Rémy Ferbras 2017 Terre de Mistral (Ras- velveteen tannins. At peak now but should hold improve through 2027. European Wine Group. —A.I. 92 teau). Whiffs of charred thyme and sage through 2027. Serge Doré Selections. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA lend savory undertones to ripe, elegant blackberry abv: 14.5% Price: $50 and plum. A full-bodied but stately blend of Gre­ Domaine Elodie Balme 2017 Rasteau. Com- nache, Syrah and Mourvèdre sourced from sandy Domaine des Escaravailles 2017 Heritage 92 plexities of smoke, saddle and charred marl soils, it’s elevated by lingering complexities 93 1924 (Rasteau). Initial notes of smoke and garrigue juxtapose buoyantly ripe, juicy flavors of of spice and earth. Drinks well now but should earth are replaced by pert, sun-kissed blackberries raspberry and blackberry here. It’s full-bodied and improve through 2030. Prestige Beverage Group. and plum with time and aeration. This is a rich, full- gloriously fruity but tinged by just enough savory —A.I. throttle varietal Grenache packed with sultry black notes to maintain elegance. The finish is marked by abv: 14.5% Price: $NA fruit flavors. It’s powerful but subtly nuanced, too, firm, upright tannins. Delightful young but should edged by hints of graphite and licorice. Soft, smooth hold through 2027. Louis/Dressner Selections. Camille Cayran 2017 Rasteau. Brisk mineral tannins make it approachable already but it’s sturdy —A.I. 91 tones juxtapose intensely concentrated black enough to improve through 2030. European Wine abv: 15% Price: $25 cherry and raspberry in this penetrating blend of Group. —A.I. 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah sourced from clay- abv: 15% Price: $NA Domaine la Soumade 2017 Rasteau. Whiffs limestone soils. It’s a full-bodied, intensely fruity 92 of dried thyme, sage and charred earth lend sip but elegant, too, anchored by veins of stony Domaine la Soumade 2017 Á Johanne (Ras- a savory balance to penetrating cassis and cherry earth and fine, feathery tannins. Unoaked and 93 teau). The nose is quiet here, suggesting flavors. A Grenache-dominant blend with Syrah and translucent, it’s ready to drink now but should hold just a whiff of burnt caramel and subtle black fruit. Mourvèdre, it’s gorgeously primary in fruit charac- through 2027. Serge Doré Selections. —A.I. But the palate of this full-bodied blend of Grenache ter yet finessed and firm in structure, too. Gripping, abv: 15% Price: $35 (80%) and Syrah (20%) offers layer upon layer of almost fiery tannins should meld nicely through ripe, pristine black plum and cassis edged by sun- 2030. Serge Doré Selections. —A.I. Cave de Rasteau 2018 Tradition (Rasteau). baked garrigue and smoky charcuterie. A lavish but abv: 14.5% Price: $60 91 Rich, glossy cassis and boysenberry flavors elegant wine with firm, gripping tannins, it should coat the palate of this full-bodied but freshly bal- drink well through 2030. Serge Doré Selections. Domaine la Soumade 2017 Cuvée Confiance anced red. A blend of Grenache (70%), Syrah Editors’ Choice. —A.I. 92 (Rasteau). This is a big, brawny blend of (20%) and Mourvèdre (10%), it’s plush and silken abv: 15.4% Price: $55 Gre­nache, Syrah and Mourvèdre packed with con- in mouthfeel but maintains a mineral briskness centrated black plum and crème de cassis flavors. along with pert, upright tannins that anchor the Cave de Rasteau 2018 Les Peyrieres (Ras- It’s a glossy, decadent sip but subtle shadings of finish. Ready now but should hold through 2028. 92 teau). Earthen whiffs of sunbaked clay and crushed green olive and herbes de Provence lend Saranty Imports. —A.I. buckwheat mingle into plump, juicy black cherry complexity. In its youth, the finish is tightly packed abv: 14.5% Price: $25 and fig in this sultry blend of Grenache (70%), with tannins, but this is a wine that should improve Syrah (20%) and Mourvèdre (10%). It’s a richer, well through 2030. Serge Doré Selections. —A.I. Domaine Beau Mistral 2018 Selection Vie- slightly spicier expression of Rasteau than this abv: 15% Price: $90 91 illes Vignes (Rasteau). A blend of Grenache

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 (60%), Mourvèdre (30%) and Syrah (10%), this nins on the finish may require some aeration and (10%) and Mourvèdre (10%) yields perfume and elegant red is more finesse than powerhouse. Black- time to meld. Serge Doré Selections. —A.I. fruit with just a bit of time and aeration. Black plum berry and plum flavors are ripe but restrained, abv: 15.5% Price: $45 and preserved cherry flavors are ripe and luscious etched by hints of dried thyme and crushed earth. but shaded by savory notes of bramble, sage and Lingering notes of olive and licorice lead a long, Domaine la Soumade 2017 Cuvée Prestige thyme. The finish is quite gripping with tannins. softly tannic finish. Ready now but should hold 90 (Rasteau). Opening whiffs of earth and Best enjoyed now–2027. European Wine Group. through 2028. The Wine Source. —A.I. sun-scorched garrigue dissipate into elegant notes —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $NA of blackberry and cassis with time and aeration. abv: 14% Price: $NA A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, it’s Domaine Caroline Bonnefoy 2017 Rasteau. a bold, richly concentrated sip with a pleasantly Château du Trignon 2017 Rasteau. This 91 Savory impressions of wet earth, tapenade earthen, savory tone. The finish is marked by firm, 88 full-bodied but bristling blend of Gre- and black pepper lend complexity to luscious black chewy tannins. Should meld and improve through nache (60%) and Mourvèdre (40%) offers zesty cherry and boysenberry in this blend of 60% Gre­ 2027. Serge Doré Selections. —A.I. blackberry and cassis flavors. It’s a leaner, slightly nache and 40% Syrah. It’s ripe but restrained in abv: 14.5% Price: $40 puckering expression of Rasteau edged by firm, pen- style, anchored by a firm, mineral backbone and a etrating tannins. Best now–2025. David Milligan long, spicy finish. Enjoyable in its youth but should Domaine Mikael Boutin 2017 M.B. (Ras- Selections. —A.I. hold through 2027. Jerome Selection. —A.I. 90 teau). Accents of wild mint, thyme and abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 14% Price: $NA crushed earth permeate throughout this Grenache- dominant blend sourced from clay and limestone Grand Nicolet 2017 Terre des Bertrand (Ras- Domaine les Grands Bois 2017 Marc (Rasteau). soils. It’s full-bodied and plump, offering ripe but 88 teau). Notes of blueberry and black plum 91 Hints of dusty earth and sun-scorched gar- slightly muted black plum and cherry flavors. The preserves have a jammy, concentrated tone in this rigue on the nose are juxtaposed by ripe, intensely finish is marked by gripping, fine-grained tannins. full-bodied blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan extracted boysenberry and black fig in this unctu- Rosenthal Wine Merchant. —A.I. sourced from clay and limestone soils. Compared ous blend of Grenache (50%), Mourvèdre (25%) abv: 14.5% Price: $NA with previous , slightly earthen, muted fruit and Syrah 25%. It’s a massive, mouthfilling wine notes in this bottling suggest a slightly early matu- accented by spicy kicks of licorice and olive. Fine- Reserve Saint Dominique 2017 Rasteau. rity. Its fine-grained tannins would welcome con- grained but firm tannins should meld nicely through 90 Pristine, sun-kissed blackberries are edged sumption while young as well. Weygandt-Metzler. 2027. —A.I. by crushed stone and garrigue here. A blend of Gre­ —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA nache (80%), Syrah (15%) and Mourvèdre (5%), abv: 14.5% Price: $20 it’s richly concentrated but freshly balanced, too, Domaine Martin 2018 Rasteau. Hints of dried lingering on fine-grained, bitter tannins on the fin- Grand Nicolet 2017 Vieilles Vignes (Rasteau). 91 earth and dusty mineral mingle into ripe, ish. Ready now but should drink well through 2027. 87 Densely concentrated plum and black cherry pristine black currant and plum in this elegant, Grape Expectations (CA). —A.I. flavors are muted by savory notes of crushed earth subtle expression of Rasteau. A blend of Grenache, abv: 14% Price: $20 and tobacco and in this full-bodied blend of Gre- Syrah and Mourvèdre, it’s full-bodied but freshly nache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. It’s a rounded, open- balanced. The finish is marked by soft, feathery Vignobles et Compagnie 2018 Rasteau. knit wine that’s showing glimpses of maturity, so tannins and spicy kicks of olive and pepper. Best 90 Smoky notes of licorice and cinnamon it’s best to enjoy now–2024. Weygandt-Metzler. now–2028. Grapevine Distributors. —A.I. lend warmth to plump black cherry and plum in —A.I. abv: 15.1% Price: $NA this 50-50 blend of Grenache and Syrah. It’s a big, abv: 15% Price: $24 brawny wine that falls on the palate with weight Ravoire et Fils 2017 Rasteau. Inviting hints of and density, but a touch of mineral freshness lifts 91 crushed earth and smoked meat mingle into the finish. The finish extends on ripe, chewy tan- BEAUMES-DE-VENISE preserved black plum in this savory, complex wine. nins. Ready now but should hold through 2025. A Grenache-dominant blend accentuated by Syrah Savorian Inc. —A.I. Domaine la Ligière 2018 Les Garennes and Mourvèdre, it’s plush and voluminous but lifted abv: 14% Price: $17 93 (Beaumes-de-Venise).­ Ripe but pristine cas- by tangs of salt and crushed mineral on the mid- sis and black cherry are accented by savory hints of palate. The finish is long and marked by pleasantly Boissy & Delaygue 2017 Rasteau. Whiffs of roasted beet, anise and violet perfume in this lovely, bitter thyme and lavender notes. Approachable 89 smoke, charred thyme and cured meat lend fragrant red. A 60-40 blend of Grenache and Syrah, already but should drink well through 2027. Wine savory nuances to elegant black cherry and plum in it’s a silky, refreshingly medium-bodied sip edged by Warehouse Imports. —A.I. this full-bodied but restrained red. It’s plush and fine-grained, integrated tannins. The finish wraps abv: 15% Price: $NA rounded on the palate and edged by fine, integrated up on an invigorating mineral tone. Best now–2026. tannins. Best enjoyed now–2025. Monsieur Touton AP Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. Domaine du Trapadis 2017 Les Cras (Ras- Selection Ltd. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $27 90 teau). This Grenache-dominant blend is abv: 15% Price: $15 quiet upon opening but gradually reveals layers of La Grand Comtadine 2018 Hespéria (Beaumes-­ ripe, rich blackberry and mulberry flavors muted by Domaine de Beaurenard 2017 Rasteau. 91 de-Venise). While subdued on the nose, this earth and dusty mineral. It’s opulent but calibrated 89 Glossy cassis and mulberry flavors are ripe ripe but elegant blend of Grenache, Syrah and neatly by bites of acidity and firm, persistent tan- and concentrated in this brawny blend of Grenache Mourvèdre offers plump black cherry and cassis fla- nins. Best now–2027. European Wine Group. —A.I. (80%), Syrah (17%) and Mourvèdre (3%). Soft, vors. It’s a rich, almost creamy, mouthful framed by abv: 14% Price: $NA integrated tannins accentuate its hedonistic, imme- fine-grained, velvety tannins. The finish is marked diately appealing style. At peak now but should hold by kicks of peppery black spice and cut stone. Best Domaine Fond Croze 2017 Rasteau. This is through 2027. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.I. now–2026. Serge Doré Selections. —A.I. 90 a big, hulking blend of Grenache (80%), abv: 15% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $70 Mourvèdre (10%) and Syrah (10%) sourced from 60-year-old vines. It’s a full-throttled, luscious Domaine du Trapadis 2017 Les Adrès (Ras- RhonéA 2017 Terres des Farisiens (Beaumes- wine, but blackberry and cassis flavors are surpris- 89 teau). While initially quite closed on the 91 de-Venise). Intensely mineral, earthen tones ingly fresh on the midpalate. Bold, penetrating tan- nose, this blend of Grenache (80%), Carignan juxtapose gorgeous violet perfume on the nose of

WINEMAG.COM | 57

BUYINGGUIDE this pretty Grenache-Syrah blend. Full-bodied and clay. A Grenache-dominant blend augmented by notes of black plum and cherry are edged by savory decadently concentrated, it offers rich, juicy black- Syrah, Carignan, Mourvèdre and Viognier, it’s full- note of herbes de Provence and dried earth in this berry and cherry flavors offset by crisp acidity. The bodied and silken through a long, integrated finish. full-bodied Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre blend. finish is long and lingers on fine, silky tannins. Best Best now–2024. Metrowine Distribution. —A.I. Plush and open on the palate, the finish wraps up on now–2027. Metrowine Distribution. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 soft, feathery tannins. It’s showing signs of maturity abv: 14.5% Price: $NA already, so drink soon. Boisset Collection. —A.I. Arnoux & Fils 2017 Vieux Clocher (Beaumes- abv: 14% Price: $20 Domaine Saint Amant 2017 Grangeneuve 88 de-Venise). Dark, savory mineral tones lend 90 (Beaumes-de-Venise). Whispers of licorice an earthen undertone to ripe, tangy blackberry and and vanilla accent concentrated cassis and plum in cassis flavors. A blend of 60% Grenache, 35% Syrah VACQUEYRAS this perfumed, lavish red. A blend of cofermented and 5% Mourvèdre, it’s a distinctly restrained Grenache (50%), Syrah (30%), Carignan (10%) expression of the Southern Rhône. Supple, smooth Alain Jaume et Fils 2018 Château Mazane and Viognier (10%) sourced from high-altitude tannins make it welcoming while young. Monsieur 91 (Vacqueyras). While the nose is smoky and vines, it’s luscious and inky on the palate while Touton Selection Ltd. —A.I. restrained, this plummy, pristinely fruity red offers maintaining a purity of fruit. The finish is long and abv: 14.5% Price: $17 loads of sun-kissed black cherry and plum flavors gripped by persistent, fiery tannins. Best now– edged by a stony, mineral undertone. A blend of 2027. DB Wine Selection. —A.I. Domaine Caroline Bonnefoy 2017 Beaumes- 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, abv: 14.5% Price: $21 88 de-Venise. Hints of sandalwood and anise it’s an immediately approachable but elegant wine. lend heat to the nose of this full-bodied red, but the The finish lingers on fine, feathery tannins. Kysela RhonéA 2017 Domaine de la Chêneraie palate is surprisingly brighter and fresher. A blend Père et Fils. —A.I. 90 (Beaumes-de-Venise). Pronounced notes of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, it offers ripe, abv: 14.5% Price: $29 of bramble and sun-scorched thyme lend savory succulent black cherry and plum flavors offset by inflections to plush, creamy blackberry and plum pert acidity and firm, persistent tannins. An easy- Domaine le Colombier 2018 Cuvée G (Vacqu- here. A rich, lavish blend of Grenache and Syrah, it’s drinking sip best enjoyed young. Jerome Selection. 91 eyras). A blend of equal parts Grenache and full-bodied but pertly balanced. Soft, ripe tannins —A.I. Syrah, this producer’s flagship Vacqueyras bottling accentuate its easy, open-knit feel. Enjoy young. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA is jam-packed with gloriously ripe, juicy blackberry Metrowine Distribution. —A.I. and blueberry flavors. Matured in French oak for 12 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Domaine de Fenouillet 2017 Terres Blanches months, it’s a spicy, clove-studded sip with a lav- 88 (Beaumes-de-Venise). Rich, plummy black ishly textured, open-knit feel. A hedonistic pick RhonéA 2017 Terres de Bel Air (Beaumes- cherry and blueberry notes are edged by bramble, that’s ready now but should hold through 2028. 90 de-Venise). Bold layers of licorice, black anise and cola notes. An ample, fleshy blend of Gre­ Jerome Selection. —A.I. pepper and charred garrigue accent rich, almost nache, Syrah and Mourvèdre framed by soft, easy abv: 14.5% Price: $30 unctuous black cherry preserve and cassis. A blend tannins, it’s an immediately approachable wine to of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah sourced from enjoy young. Rosenthal Wine Merchant. —A.I. Domaine les Ondines 2018 Vacqueyras. Whiffs high-altitude clay and limestone soils, it’s a creamy, abv: 14% Price: $NA 91 of sandalwood and violet lend a sultry per- hedonistic sip framed by soft, welcoming tan- fume to ripe, ruddy black plums and cherries on nins. At peak now but should hold through 2024. Domaine les Goubert 2017 Beaumes-de- this voluptuous red. In this mouthwatering blend of Metrowine Distribution. —A.I. 88 Venise. Intensely ripe, ruddy black fruit fla- Gre­nache (75%), Cinsault (5%) and Syrah (20%), abv: 14.5% Price: $NA vors gain freshness and purity on the palate of this the palate is unctuously fruity but freshly balanced full-bodied blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. by streaks of red cassis acidity and a lingering gra- Domaine des Bernardins 2018 Beaumes-de- It’s rich and rounded in mouthfeel, but crisp acidity nitic finish. Lovely already but should drink well 89 Venise. Charry notes of sun-scorched thyme leads a brisk finish marked by firm, upright tannins. through 2028. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.I. and sage accent rich, almost ruddy, black cherry and Best now–2024. Metrowine Distribution. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 plum in this voluptuous Grenache-dominant blend. abv: 14.5% Price: $23 Additions of white grapes like Marsanne and Gre­ Alain Jaume et Fils 2018 Grande Garrigue nache Blanc lend a lift of freshness and vitality on RhonéA 2017 Dom Venitia (Beaumes-de- 90 (Vacqueyras). Whiffs of crème de cassis the midpalate. The finish is marked by velveteen but 88 Venise). Plush and plummy, this full-bodied are accented by smoke and char in this full-bodied, persistent tannins. Best enjoyed young. Kysela Père blend of Grenache and Syrah offers intensely ripe juicy red. The palate is quite pristine, loaded with et Fils. —A.I. blackberry and blueberry flavors accented by san- pert blackberry and black cherry flavors juxtaposed abv: 14% Price: $20 dalwood and cinnamon. While fleshy in mouthfeel, by a tangy acidic edge. The finish is long and marked it’s framed by fine-grained, mouthfilling tannins. by fine-grained, persistent tannins. Ready now but Gabriel Meffre 2017 Laurus (Beaumes-de- A touch of earth lingers on the finish. Best enjoyed should hold through 2028. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. 89 Venise). Whiffs of cedar, cinnamon and young. Metrowine Distribution. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $29 anise mingle into ripe cassis and blueberry in this abv: 14.5% Price: $25 rich, creamy blend of Grenache (50%), Syrah Alain Jaume et Fils 2018 La Grangette des (45%) and Carignan (5%). Sourced from high- RhonéA 2017 Domaine la Brune (Beaumes- 90 Garrigues (Vacqueyras). Blueberry and altitude gypsum and clay soils, it’s a luscious, silky 88 de-Venise). Bold whiffs of thyme and sun- boysenberry notes are intensely ripe but muted by wine lifted by fresh acidity. It’s immediately enjoy- baked garrigue lend savory complexities to ripe, earth tones in this curvaceous blend of Grenache, able but should hold through 2024. Vision Wine & glossy blackberry and fig in this full-bodied blend Mourvèdre and Syrah. Crisp acidity and sandpa- Spirits. —A.I. of Grenache (55%) and Syrah (45%). Tart cassis pery tannins offset its voluptuous mouthfeel. Best abv: 14.5% Price: $NA freshens the midpalate and leads a moderately long enjoyed now–2026. Epic Wines. —A.I. finish edged by fine-grained but parching tannins. abv: 14% Price: $25 RhonéA 2017 Terroir Daronton (Beaumes- Best now–2024. Metrowine Distribution. —A.I. 89 de-Venise). While the nose is intensely ripe abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Domaine d’Ourea 2018 Vacqueyras. and ruddy, the palate of this full-bodied red offers 90 Restrained blackberry and cherry on the elegant, restrained black cherry and blackberry fla- Bonpas 2018 Grand Cardinal (Beaumes- nose gain ripeness and intensity on the palate of vors accented by earthen notes of char and crushed 86 de-Venise). Intensely ripe, slightly stewed this bright, fresh-fruited red. A Grenache-dominant

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 blend accentuated by Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault Les Vins Skalli 2018 Caves Saint-Pierre (Vac- Domaine le Colombier 2018 Tradition (Vac- and Mourvèdre, its spicy, smoky blackberry and 89 queyras). Pristine blackberry and plum 88 queyras). Ripe, sun-drenched black cherry blueberry flavors are layered in soft, silky tannins. flavors are edged by hints of granite and crushed and boysenberry flavors are accented by cinnamon, Ready to enjoy immediately. Thomas Calder Selec- earth in this full-bodied, fresh-fruited red. A blend anise and smoke in this bold, fruity blend of Gre- tions. —A.I. of Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah, it’s nache (70%), Syrah (20%) and Mourvèdre (10%). abv: 13.5% Price: $25 accessibly juicy but zesty and lingers on fine, supple It’s a youthful, immediately accessible wine that tannins. Best enjoyed now through 2024. Boisset should be enjoyed soon for its vivid primary fruit. Louis Bernard 2018 Vacqueyras. Bold blue- Collection. —A.I. These grippy tannins may need a juicy steak or 90 berry and violet aromas perfume this abv: 14.5% Price: $20 burger for balance. Jerome Selection. —A.I. plump but freshly balanced blend of Grenache and abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Syrah. Full-bodied and luscious on the palate, its fig Ogier 2018 Oratorio (Vacqueyras). Glossy and blackberry preserve flavors are approachably 89 blueberry and blackberry flavors are Maison Bouachon 2018 Vacqueyras. Cutting fruity but edged by firm, anchoring tannins. Best accented by clove and spice in this profoundly ripe, 88 red cassis acidity and firm, finely grained enjoyed now–2028. Boisset Collection. —A.I. cream-textured blend of Grenache (65%) and Syrah tannins frame this full-bodied but vibrantly bal- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 (35%). It’s an unctuous, intensely ripe wine bal- anced red. A blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and anced by sunny acidity and fine, baby-soft tannins. Syrah, it’s a juicy, forwardly fruity sip packed with Ogier 2018 Boiseraie (Vacqueyras). Heaps of A hedonistic sip that’s at peak already but should concentrated black cherry and plum flavors. Best 90 blueberry and raspberry jam introduce this hold through 2025. Taub Family Selections. —A.I. enjoyed now–2023. Boisset Collection. —A.I. robust, intensely concentrated blend of Grenache, abv: 15% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Mourvèdre and Syrah. All curves and soft edges, it’s a lavish sip framed by ripe, seamlessly integrated RhonéA 2018 Domaine du Grand Prieur (Vac- tannins. At peak now but should hold through 89 queyras). A blend of equal parts Grenache LIRAC 2025. Taub Family Selections. —A.I. and Syrah amplified by small proportions of Cin- abv: 14.5% Price: $27 sault and Mourvèdre, this is an intensely primary, Château de Ségriès 2016 Secret de la Grange fruity sip loaded with juicy blackberry and plum- 93 (Lirac). Crisp, spice-inflected blackberry Vignobles et Compagnie 2018 Domaine de la preserve flavors. Concentrated but freshly balanced, and black cherry flavors are anchored by a cooling 90 Ganse (Vacqueyras). There’s a refreshingly its easy, approachable style is accentuated by fine, mineral undertone in this stand-out Grenache- tart boysenberry perfume on the nose here, but the feathery tannins. Best enjoyed young. Metrowine Syrah blend. It’s ripe and glossy on the palate but palate of this full-bodied, forward red is ample and Distribution. —A.I. pertly balanced with bristling acidity and a linger- ripe. Flavors of blueberry and fig preserve are plush abv: 14.5% Price: $20 ing stony finish. At peak now but should improve and juicy but held upright by taut, persistent tan- through 2028 and hold further. Kysela Père et Fils. nins. An immediately enjoyable wine that should RhonéA 2018 Fontimple (Vacqueyras). Editors’ Choice. —A.I. hold through 2018. Savorian Inc. —A.I. 89 Intense, concentrated flavors of blackberry abv: 14.5% Price: $55 abv: 14% Price: $20 jam and plum preserves are muted by hints of earth and granite. Voluptuous and mouthfilling, it’s a Domaine de la Mordorée 2017 La Reine des Domaine de l’Oiselet 2018 Vacqueyras. Lus- juicy, boldly fruity sip framed by fine, firm tannins. 93 Bois (Lirac). Black plum and mulberry fla- 89 cious blueberry and black fig flavors are A hint of granite lends elegance to the finish. At vors explode in this luscious, intensely concen- edged by a refreshing granite undertone in this full- peak now but should hold through 2024. Metrow- trated blend of Syrah (40%), Grenache (30%) and bodied, fleshy red. It’s an immediately approach- ine Distribution. —A.I. Mourvèdre (30%). It’s a touch jammy on the palate able, indulgently fruity sip that begs to be enjoyed abv: 14.5% Price: $31 but structured by crisp red currant acidity and fine- in its youth. Firm, grippy tannins on the finish lend grained, grippy tannins. At peak now–2024. Kysela welcome structure. Massanois Imports. —A.I. RhonéA 2018 Terroir Daronton (Vacquey- Père et Fils. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 89 ras). Sun-drenched blackberry and cherry abv: 14.5% Price: $45 flavors are spiced by hints of black pepper and a Domaine le Colombier 2018 Vieilles Vignes subtle granitic undertone. It’s a plush, full-bodied Domaine Coudoulis 2017 Cuvée Bacchus 89 (Vacqueyras). Notes of intensely ripe, sip but crisply concentrated. Tannins are finely 92 (Lirac). Flamboyant skeins of clove and jammy blueberry and plum preserves abound in edged, lingering through a long, supple finish. Best smoke accent profoundly ripe plum and mulberry this rich, deeply fruity blend of Grenache (80%) enjoyed young. Metrowine Distribution. —A.I. here. A 70-30 blend of Grenache and Syrah sourced and Mourvèdre (20%). It’s a rotund, full-throttled abv: 14.5% Price: $20 from 50- to 60-year-old vines, it’s a deeply pene- wine etched by soft, fine tannins, but there’s a hint trating, tannic wine lifted by cooling mineral under- of granite on the finish that’s invigorating. Best Bonpas 2018 Grand Cartulaire (Vacqueyras). tones. It’s hedonistic in its youth but should drink enjoyed young through 2024. Jerome Selection. 88 Brambly blackberry and raspberry flavors well through 2027. Vitis Imports. —A.I. —A.I. penetrate this full-bodied, briskly concentrated abv: 15% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $25 blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah. It’s a zesty, ebulliently fruity sip framed by firm, upright Domaine Coudoulis 2017 Hommage (Lirac). Gabriel Meffre 2018 Saint Barthélémy (Vac- tannins. Best enjoyed young. Boisset Collection. 92 Unctuous, silky blackberry and blueberry 89 queyras). Fresh and unabashedly forward, —A.I. tones are wrapped in rich, chewy tannins in this this full-bodied blend of Grenache and Syrah offers abv: 14.5% Price: $20 powerful blend of Grenache (67%) and Syrah loads of juicy, primary blackberry and boysenberry (33%). It’s an intensely concentrated, deeply fruity flavors edged by piquant bramble and spice. It’s soft Domaine La Rêverie 2018 Vacqueyras. Hints sip marked by smoky accents of anise and vanilla. and rich in mouthfeel but the finish is anchored 88 of smoked nut and char introduce this Ready now but should hold through 2027. Vitis by firm, lingering tannins. Ready to drink now but intensely fruity red. It’s not a deeply nuanced wine Imports. —A.I. should hold through 2028. Vision Wine & Spirits. but is fleshy and hedonistic, packed with flavors of abv: 15% Price: $NA —A.I. black plum and boysenberry preserves. Firm, taut abv: 14% Price: $25 tannins lend a grip of structure on the finish. Best Domaine Lafond 2017 La Ferme Romaine now–2024. Total Beverage Solution. —A.I. 92 (Lirac). Whispers of sandalwood and clove abv: 14.5% Price: $20 lend a spicy, sultry tone to this decadent blend of

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BUYINGGUIDE old-vine Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Partially marked by shards of cut stone and fine, integrated (45%), Mouvèdre (35%) and Grenache (20%). It’s matured en barrique, it’s a creamier, oakier expres- tannins. Best now–2026. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. an opulent, mouthfilling sip kept on its toes by a sion of Lirac, but its juicy cassis and plum flavors abv: 14.5% Price: $35 twist of sour-cherry acidity on the finish. Ripe, inte- maintain freshness and elegance. The finish envel- grated tannins make it ready to drink now–2025. ops the palate with soft, chalky tannins. At peak Domaine Coudoulis 2017 Evidence (Lirac). DB Wine Selection. —A.I. now–2027. Alain Junguenet Selection. —A.I. 91 This is a big, powerhouse wine packed with abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 14% Price: $NA rich, ripe blackberry and plum flavors. An uno- aked blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, it’s Domaine Pierre Usseglio et Fils 2017 Cuvée Domaine Roger Sabon 2018 Lirac by Roger decadently fruity but intently mineral, too, etched 91 Usseglio (Lirac). Heady with aromas of 92 Sabon (Lirac). Pure, unadulterated black- by bristling strikes of stone and earth. Hedonis- vanilla and crème de cassis, this is a rich, con- berry and mulberry flavors take center stage in tic already but should hold through 2025. Vitis centrated Grenache-dominant red (augmented by this plump but freshly balanced red. A Grenache- Imports. —A.I. Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault). Blackberry and dominant blend augmented by spicy accents of abv: 15% Price: $NA cherry flavors are luscious but pristine, accented Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan, it’s a softly tannic by bold layers of pepper, cinnamon and licorice. It’s sip packed with perfumed notes of lilac, violet and Domaine de la Mordorée 2017 La Dame Rousse immediately approachable but firm, gripping tan- bramble. Hedonistic, easy-drinking and quite irre- 91 (Lirac). Sun-drenched cassis and blackberry nins should maintain it well through 2024. Fruit of sistible. European Cellars. —A.I. penetrate from nose to finish in this pristine 50-50 the Vines, Inc. —A.I. abv: 15% Price: $35 blend of Grenache and Syrah. The palate is supple abv: 15% Price: $NA and spry—concentrated without feeling heavy or Alain Jaume et Fils 2018 Clos de Sixte (Lirac). dense. Fine, taut tannins and hints of crushed earth Les Vignerons de Tavel & Lirac 2017 Les Hauts 91 Whispers of smoke and tobacco lend earthen linger on the finish. Ready now but should hold 91 d’Acantalys (Lirac). The nose of this opulent complexities to ripe but pristine blackberry and through 2025. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. Grenache-dominant blend announces itself with cherry. It’s a bold, voluptuous wine framed in firm, abv: 14.5% Price: $33 plumes of plump red cherries, rosemary and lilac. slightly charry tannins but elegant through a long It’s a full-bodied, supple sip packed with fleshy finish. Ready now but should hold well through Domaine Duseigneur 2016 Antarès (Lirac). black plum and blackberry flavors and fresh, spir- 2027. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. 91 Inflections of crushed stone accent zesty ited acidity. A lovely wine that’s ready to drink now abv: 15% Price: $30 cranberry and red cherry flavors in this ripe but but should hold through 2025. Fruit of the Vines, restrained blend of Grenache (60%) and Mourvè- Inc. —A.I. Château de Montfaucon 2016 Baron Louis dre (40%). Sourced from biodynamic fruit, it’s abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 91 (Lirac). Pretty lilac perfume abounds in a full-bodied, concentrated wine that maintains this fruit-forward, invigorating blend of Grenache, vibrance and acidity throughout. Fine-grained Rocca Maura 2017 Terra Ancestra (Lirac). Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre. It’s a tannins accentuate its youthful appeal. T. Edward 91 Zesty blackberry and blueberry flavors are hedonistic sip marked by piquant notes of pepper Wines Ltd. —A.I. marked by piquant accents of cinnamon, smoke and and licorice on the midpalate. The finish is stately, abv: 15% Price: $NA fresh, green herbs. It’s full-bodied and lusciously lingering on firm, upright tannins. Best now–2025. textured but structured by zesty red currant acidity Maverick Selections. —A.I. Domaine La Lôyane 2017 Cuvée Marie (Lirac). and firm, upright tannins. At peak now–2025. Com- abv: 14.5% Price: $22 91 Decadent fruit and rustic earth tones cali- munal Brands. —A.I. brate neatly in this opulent red made from 90% abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Château de Montfaucon 2016 Vin de Mr le Grenache. Flavors of dried strawberries and black 91 Baron de Montfaucon (Lirac). Charred earth figs are accented by toast, cinnamon and leather. Vignobles Boudinaud 2017 Lirac. Whispers of and stony minerals juxtapose crisp, cutting black- It’s a richly fruity yet elegant wine that finishes on 91 anise, black pepper and cardamom lend spice berry and black currant flavors in this vital blend of swathes of savory herbs and bold, chewy tannins. At to sultry blueberry and black plum flavors. A blend 15 classic Rhône grapes, cofermented and matured peak now–2027. Elixir Wine Group. —A.I. of Grenache (60%), Cinsault (20%) and Syrah in oak. It’s vibrantly fruity but savory, too, edged by abv: 15% Price: $NA (20%), it’s a voluptuous, lusciously textured sip lingering veins of smoke and dried sage. Fine but but maintains vitality and brightness throughout. firm tannins grip the finish. Ready now but should Domaine Maby 2017 Bel Canto (Lirac). Fine, feathery tannins make it welcoming in youth, improve through 2025. Kindred Vines. —A.I. 91 Intensely ripe, radiant mulberry and black but it’s a wine that’s concentrated enough to hold abv: 14.5% Price: $42 cherry flavors abound in this rich but freshly bal- through 2025 at least. The Wine House. —A.I. anced Grenache. It’s a luscious, silky sip accentu- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Château Mont-Redon 2017 Lirac. Savory ated by fine, feathery tannins and a kiss of sweet 91 accents of smoke, anise and hazelnut mingle spice on the finish. At peak now–2025. DB Wine Cellier des Chartreux 2017 Domaine les into juicy black plum and dried strawberry flavors Selection. —A.I. 90 Colombettes (Lirac). Savory dried thyme here. A rich, creamy blend of Grenache (70%), abv: 14.5% Price: $NA and mint accent luminous red currant and red Syrah (20%) and Mourvèdre (10%), it’s balanced cherry flavors in this Grenache-Syrah blend. Mod- by lip-smacking red currant acidity and a fine grip Domaine Maby 2017 La Fermade (Lirac). Juicy, erately full in body, it offsets juicy, primary-fruit of tannins on the finish. Delightful already but 91 concentrated blueberry and black plum fla- characters against an invigorating mineral under- should hold through 2025. Frederick Wildman & vors are lusciously ripe but maintain pert acidity tone. At peak now but should hold through 2025. Sons, Ltd. —A.I. in this full-bodied blend of Syrah (50%), Grenache Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA (40%) and Mourvèdre (10%). Unoaked and fruit- abv: 14.5% Price: $22 forward, it’s an immediately pleasing sip with a Domaine Corne-Loup 2016 Lirac. Pristine refreshing, mineral finish. Enjoy now–2025. DB Château Boucarut 2017 Cuvée Ulysse (Lirac). 91 black cherries and red currants are shaded Wine Selection. —A.I. 90 Ripe, fleshy blueberry and blackberry fla- by notes of smoke, anise and black pepper in this abv: 14.5% Price: $NA vors are shaded by dried thyme and menthol notes ripe but crisply balanced red. A blend of Grenache in this forward, unoaked blend of Grenache, Syrah, (50%), Syrah (40%) and Mourvèdre (10%), it’s Domaine Maby 2017 Nessun Dorma (Lirac). Cinsault and Mourvèdre. It’s a plummy, opulent a full-bodied, thirst-quenching sip. The finish is 91 Heady layers of smoke and char mingle into wine balanced by brisk acidity and fine, gripping plump blackberry and cassis in this blend of Syrah

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 tannins. Ready now but should hold through 2025. black plum and cherry flavors, it’s full-bodied and Domaine Pélaquié 2017 Lirac. Succulent One For the Vines. —A.I. plush yet crisply composed and accented by fiery 90 raspberry and red plum flavors abound in abv: 14.5% Price: $NA hints of anise and dried sage. Ripe, fine-grained tan- this unabashedly juicy, fruity blend of Grenache and nins make it immediately accessible, but it should Mourvèdre. It’s primary in fruit but accented by Château d’Aqueria 2017 Lirac. Perfumed hold well through 2025. Marcus Brothers Imports. hints of sun-charred garrigue. The finish is framed 90 whiffs of violet, smoke and anise accent —A.I. by fine, feathery tannins. Immediately approachable luscious blueberry and black fig flavors. It’s full- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA but should hold through 2023. David Bowler Wine. bodied and silken on the palate but balanced by —A.I. fresh acidity and firm, gripping tannins that lend Domaine d’Arbousset 2016 La Vigne d’Yvon abv: 14% Price: $NA an upright edge to the finish. Ready now but should 90 (Lirac). Whispers of smoked nut and lilac hold through 2024. Kobrand. —A.I. perfume accent zesty red currant and sour cherry. A La Font de Notre Dame 2017 Lirac. Ripe, abv: 14% Price: $NA Grenache-dominant blend bolstered by Syrah, Cin- 90 juicy raspberry and red cherry notes are sault and Mourvèdre, it’s voluminous and forward muted by shades of earth and bramble in this full- Château de Bouchassy 2018 Quatuor (Lirac). but maintains a zesty frame of acidity and fine- bodied blend of Grenache (70%), Syrah (25%) and 90 Luminous black fruit and cooling granite grained, firm tannins. Ready now but should hold Mourvèdre (5%). Unoaked and transparent in fruit tones collide in this ripe but invigorating blend of through 2025. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —A.I. quality, it’s an easy-drinking red with a touch of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Sourced abv: 14.5% Price: $NA cooling minerality on the finish. At peak now–2023. from chalky soils and unoaked, it’s a pure, softly Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports. —A.I. tannic sip that lingers on brambly blackberry tones. Domaine des Maravilhas 2018 Canto-Bruno abv: 14.5% Price: $20 At peak now–2023. Gifted Grape. —A.I. 90 (Lirac). Bold strokes of thyme and rose- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 mary lend complexity to fresh, fruity black cherry M. Chapoutier 2017 Lirac. This is a bold, and berry flavors here. A thirst-quenching blend of 90 densely concentrated blend of Grenache Château de Manissy 2017 Avant-Goût du biodynamic Grenache and Mourvèdre, it balances and Syrah packed with luminous blackberry and 90 Paradis (Lirac). Whiffs of preserved black pristine black fruit flavors against a crush of salty plum flavors. It’s opulent but pertly balanced by cherry and crème de cassis are shaded by thyme minerals and just a hint of earth. Ready now but crisp mineral tones and a zippy acidic edge. Firm, and black pepper on the nose. In this blend of 80% should hold through 2024. —A.I. gripping tannins on the end lend foursquare struc- Syrah and 20% Grenache, the palate highlights abv: 14.5% Price: $NA ture. Ready now but should hold through 2025. Ter- Syrah’s sharp, penetrating blackberry and bramble lato Wines International. —A.I. tones along with firm but fine-grained tannins. Best Domaine des Maravilhas 2018 Pradau abv: 15% Price: $NA enjoyed now–2025. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.I. 90 (Lirac). This Syrah-dominant red offers abv: 14% Price: $31 piercing blueberry and blackberry flavors accented NewRhône Millesimes 2017 Domaine de by hints of licorice, bramble and black pepper. It’s a 90 l’Eyrolle (Lirac). Pretty, perfumed notes of Château de Manissy 2017 Trinité (Lirac). straightforward but invigorating wine lifted by crisp lavender and dried thyme lift fleshy blackberry and 90 Hints of smoke, saddle and spice lend cassis acidity. Smooth, fine-grained tannins make it blueberry flavors in this decadent Grenache-Syrah savory nuances to fleshy blueberry and black plum easy to enjoy now–2024. Biodynamic. —A.I. blend. It’s a full-bodied, voluptuous sip edged by flavors. Made from whole-cluster Grenache and abv: 14% Price: $NA soft, feathery tannins. At peak now but should hold aged partially in French oak, it’s a lavish, open-knit through 2023. Z Wine Gallery Imports. —A.I. wine fringed by earth and bitter-herb notes. Despite Domaine La Lôyane 2017 Vieilles Vignes abv: 14.5% Price: $NA firm, bracing tannins, it’s a welcoming wine that’s 90 (Lirac). This is big, brawny blend of Gre- at peak now–2027. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.I. nache (60%) and Syrah (40%) packed with densely Ogier 2018 Lou Caminé (Lirac). This pretty abv: 14.5% Price: $20 concentrated black cherry and plum flavors. It’s a 90 Grenache-dominant blend stands out for voluptuous, decadent wine accented by prominent its glorious violet and lilac perfume. Lusciously Château le Devoy Martine 2018 Via Secreta notes of char, vanilla and smoke. Big, gripping tan- textured and packed with dazzling blackberry and 90 (Lirac). Loads of violet and lilac perfume nins lock down a long finish. Ready now but should plum flavors, it’s an effortlessly fruity, approachable accent fresh, primary blackberry and plum fla- hold through 2025. Elixir Wine Group. —A.I. sip framed by a softly tannic finish. At peak now– vors in this irresistibly fruity blend of Mourvèdre abv: 15% Price: $NA 2023. Taub Family Selections. —A.I. (40%), Cinsault (20%), Grenache (20%) and abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Syrah (20%). It’s not a deeply complex wine but Domaine Lafond 2017 Lirac. This blend of voluptuous and immediately likable. Fine, feath- 90 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah offers suc- Château de Ségriès 2017 Lirac. Fleshy black ery tannins and a touch of minerality linger on the culent cassis and blackberry flavors juxtaposed by 89 cherry and plum flavors are muted by layers finish. Ready now but should hold through 2024. elegant nuances of earth, garrigue and violet. It’s of thyme and sage in this blend of Grenache, Syrah, Sacred Thirst Selections. —A.I. full-bodied but crisply concentrated and finishes Mourvèdre and Cinsault. It’s a full-bodied, boldly abv: 14.5% Price: $20 on fine-grained, gripping tannins. Ready now but fruity sip with just a hint of stony minerality on the should hold through 2024. Alain Junguenet Selec- finish. Immediately ready to drink but should hold Dauvergne & Ranvier 2017 Domaine des tion. —A.I. through 2023. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.I. 90 Muretins (Lirac). Fresh mint and thyme abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $24 mingle into lavender and lilac on the nose of this full-bodied but spirited red. A blend of Grenache, Domaine Notre Dame des Pallières 2018 Le Château Saint-Roch 2017 Lirac. Notes of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault, it offers crisp blue- 90 Pellegrin (Lirac). Zesty and intently min- 89 crushed earth and sage juxtapose pert, pris- berry and blackberry flavors edged by a firm gran- eral, this vital blend of Grenache (80%) and Syrah tine blackberry and cherry flavors in this juicy Gre- ite undertone. A fresh, elegant wine to enjoy now– (20%) stands out for its elegant restraint. Black- nache-Syrah-Mourvèdre blend. Red currant acidity 2024. Massanois Imports. —A.I. berry and cherry flavors are concentrated but crisp, lends bite to the midpalate. The finish is marked by abv: 14.5% Price: $NA framed by silk-tipped tannins and a lingering pep- fine-grained, feathery tannins. At peak now–2025. pery finish. Ready now and quite refreshing. Grape —A.I. Domaine Croze Granier 2016 Bel Air (Lirac). Expectations (CA). —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $NA 90 A spine of granite lends freshness to this abv: 14.5% Price: $16 plummy, perfumed red blend. Packed with juicy

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BUYINGGUIDE

Domaine Giraud 2018 Les Sables d’Arène Domaine Croze Granier 2016 Sisyphe (Lirac). ness and a concentration of fine fruits from the old 89 (Lirac). Ripe, luxuriant black plum and cas- 88 Crisp blackberry and cassis are accented by vines. This a fine wine, ready to drink. Le Wine sis flavors are rich and creamy in this big-bodied savory nuances of barnyard and fur in this elegant, I­mporter. —R.V. blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. A pillowy, decidedly Old World red. It’s full-bodied and richly abv: 13% Price: $30 comforting sip wrapped in fine-grained, integrated concentrated in black fruit flavors but structured by tannins, it’s appealing already in youth but should firm acidity and gripping, assertive tannins. A wine Lima & Smith 2019 Covela Reserva Avesso drink well through 2024. European Cellars. —A.I. that should meld and improve through 2025. Mar- 90 (Vinho Verde). From vines on the northern abv: 15% Price: $22 cus Brothers Imports. —A.I. banks of the Douro river in southern Vinho Verde, abv: 14.5% Price: $NA this wood-aged wine has a fine, spicy character Domaine la Rocalière 2017 Dentelle Noire along with textured, tight green- and apple-fruit 89 (Lirac). Made from 80% Syrah and 20% Domaine La Grangette 2018 La Grangette flavors. Drink this full, generous wine now. Organic. Gre­nache, this is a peppery, smoky expression of 88 des Garrigues (Lirac). Hints of dried earth Kindred Vines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Lirac marked by crisp blackberry and cassis flavors. and smoked nuts accent flavors of black cherry pre- abv: 13% Price: $25 It’s full-bodied but zesty with a finish that lingers serves and cassis liqueur here. An open-knit blend on fine-grained tannins and green, herbaceous of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, it’s full-bodied Quintas de Melgaço 2019 QM Alvarinho tones. At peak now–2024. Cru Selections. —A.I. and juicy with a finish that settles into soft, easy 90 (Vinho Verde). The wine is all fruit, fresh- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA tannins. Ready now and best enjoyed young. —A.I. ness and bright acidity. Along with its great crispness abv: 14.5% Price: $NA and citrus flavors, the wine also has a tense mineral- Laudun Chusclan 2017 Les Cosses Vacquières ity and zestiness that give a fine bite the aftertaste. 89 (Lirac). Smoke and lilac mingle into lumi- NewRhône Millesimes 2017 Lirac. Wild Drink from 2021. Le Wine Importer. ­Editors’ Choice. nous black currant and cherry in this full-bodied 88 mint, rosemary and pert red cherry mingle —R.V. yet Grenache-Syrah blend. Fruit-forward and throughout this full-bodied but crisp red. Its zippy, abv: 13% Price: $25 immediately accessible, its juicy, easy-drinking primary fruit profile makes it appealing in its youth style is accentuated by soft, feathery tannins. Ready but firm, gripping tannins on the finish make it best Howard’s Folly 2017 Alvarinho (Vinho now but should hold through 2025. Cutting Edge accompanied by a juicy steak or burger. Z Wine Gal- 88 Verde). This Alentejo-based winery has Selections. —A.I. lery Imports. —A.I. ventured north to the classic Alvarinho region of abv: 14.5% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Monção and Melgaço to source this now-mature wine. It shows plenty of citrus flavors while also Les Vignerons de Tavel 2017 Domaine de Vignobles Assemat 2018 Réserve Syrah having a edge of toastiness. The wine is ready to 89 Chantepierre (Lirac). Lingering veins of 88 (Lirac). This is a plump, almost cream- drink. Imports. —R.V. smoke, dried thyme and sage lend earthen nuances textured wine packed with flavors of blueberry and abv: 13% Price: $22 to crisp red cherry and blackberry in this blend raspberry preserves. A blend of Syrah (50%), Gre­ of Grenache (50%), Syrah (30%) and Mourvèdre nache (40%) and Mourvèdre (10%), sourced from Lima & Smith 2019 Covela Avesso (Vinho (20%). It’s an ample, full-bodied sip but anchored clay and sandy soils, it’s lifted on the midpalate by 88 Verde). This is a ripe and fruity wine from by fresh mineral tones and charry tannins that coat a fresh mineral tone. Best enjoyed young. Monsieur the southern Vinho Verde that has a touch of spice the finish. At peak now–2025. Fruit of the Vines, Touton Selection Ltd. —A.I. to go with the wine’s crisp tangy texture. The wine’s Inc. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 fruitiness is balanced by the zest and minerality. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Drink this attractive wine now. Kindred Vines. —R.V. Rocca Maura 2017 Lirac. Subtle notes of PORTUGAL abv: 12.5% Price: $19 89 crushed earth and crisp blackberry intro- duce this full-bodied but brisk red. Zippy red cur- WHITE WINES Magnum Carlos Lucas Vinhos 2017 Casa rant and sour-cherry flavors lift the midpalate and 88 Grande Sant’Anna Escolha (Vinho Verde). lead a cooling, mineral finish. Best enjoyed now– VINHO VERDE Poised between youthful freshness and fine matu- 2024. Communal Brands. —A.I. rity, this tangy and crisp wine has lemon zest and abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Magnum Carlos Lucas Vinhos 2017 Casa spiced apple flavors. It is fruity, smoothly textured 91 Grande Sant’Anna Avesso (Vinho Verde). This and ready to drink. Green Bus Imports. —R.V. Cave des Vins de Cru de Lirac 2017 Jean 37-acre estate in southern Vinho Verde is obvi- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 88 XXII (Lirac). Fresh-fruited black plum and ously capable of producing wines that can age. This cherry flavors take center stage in this juicy unoaked is smoothly textured and ripe with crab-apple and Lima & Smith 2019 Tormes (Vinho Verde). blend of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and Mourvèdre. spice flavors, as well as a soft, green-fruit aftertaste. 86 Produced from vines owned by a charita- Whispers of smoke and toasted hazelnut lend com- Drink now. Green Bus Imports. —R.V. ble foundation, this is a crisp wine that has a light plexity to the midpalate, and firm, gripping tannins abv: 12.5% Price: $18 prickle on the tongue, and is bright, fresh, dry and add some structure, too, but overall, it’s a fruity, refreshing with acidity. Drink now. Kindred Vines. easy-drinking sip to enjoy now–2024. Fruit of the Quinta do Regueiro 2019 Foral de Melgaço —R.V. Vines, Inc. —A.I. 91 Old Vines Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). Produced abv: 12% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA from old vines in Portugal’s northern Minho Valley, this is a finely textured, ripe and refreshingly tangy José Maria da Fonseca NV Vindonya V (Vinho Château Saint-Roch 2017 Confidentielle wine. Lemon and tight green-apple flavors have a 84 Verde). A soft, medium-sweet wine, with 88 (Lirac). Intensely ripe, almost ruddy, flavors taut mineral texture that will soften over the next apples and candied orange flavors, this very low of preserved black plum and cherry are lifted by few months. Drink from 2021. MS Walker. —R.V. alcohol wine is light and full of refreshing drinkabil- whiffs of violet and savory earth tones here. Full- abv: 13% Price: $16 ity. Drink now. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. bodied and buoyantly juicy, it offers easy-drinking, abv: 8.5% Price: $12 fruity enjoyment framed by grippy tannins on the Quintas de Melgaço 2018 QM Vinhas Velhas finish. At peak now–2023. —A.I. 91 (Vinho Verde). This Melgaço producer in the Parras Wines 2018 Ruelas Superior Branco abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Minho Valley has made a rich, impressively dense 84 (Vinho Verde). With its prickle on the wine. Lemon flavors are filled out with herbal tangi- tongue and off-dry character, this is a simple, light

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 and fruity wine. Orange zest and citrus dominate have been freshened by a shot of lime. Drink this has touches of minerality from the granite soils. along with bright fruitiness. Drink now. MS Walker. attractive wine now. Douro Vino Selections. —R.V. This texture is given richness by the wine’s hints of —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24 yellow fruits and crisp freshness. Drink this bright abv: 11% Price: $11 wine now. OZ Wine Company. Editors’ Choice. Quinta de la Rosa 2019 La Rosa Branco —R.V. 88 (Douro). A blend of four typical white abv: 13% Price: $18 DOURO Douro grapes, this wine is cool and collected with fine apple acidity and a bright texture. There is a Magnum Carlos Lucas Vinhos 2019 Ribeiro Quinta dos Avidagos 2019 Alvarelhão hint of yellow fruits to add richness to the after- 89 Santo Automático (Dão). From old vines, 92 Reserva Blanc de Noirs (Douro). This is taste. Drink now. Winesellers, Ltd. —R.V. this wine has great richness and surprising matu- unusual: made as a blanc de noirs from abv: 13% Price: $15 rity already. It is the creamy, spicy and yellow-fruit- the rare red Alvarehão grape. The wine is textured, flavored character that has brought it all forward with hints of tannins and certainly with richness. Ramos-Pinto 2019 Duas Quintas Branco and made this ripe wine ready to drink now. Green Full with tropical fruits and spice from wood aging, 88 (Douro). From higher altitude Douro vine- Bus Imports. —R.V. the wine is young and will be better from late 2021. yards, this wine is fruity, bright with acidity and abv: 13% Price: $25 Douro Vino Selections. —R.V. with lively apple and citrus flavors. Its crisp texture abv: 13% Price: $32 could soften a little, so drink from 2021. Maisons Parras Wines 2019 Evidëncia Branco (Dão). Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. 88 This is a rounded, creamy wine, full of apple Quinta de la Rosa 2019 La Rosa Reserva abv: 13% Price: $14 and pear flavors. Its generous ripeness comes from 91 (Douro). Judiciously wood aged, this is a the rich Encruzado in the blend, freshened with a spicy wine, with layers of rich white-fruit flavors. Quinta de Porrais 2019 Porrais Signature touch of Bical and perfumed Malvasia. The wine is The wine has a crisp side and textured acidity to go 87 (Douro). The wine is all about fruit and fresh ready to drink. All Star Wine Imports, LLC. Best with its ripeness and give a fine lift to the aftertaste. citrus flavors. With its lightness and poised balance Buy. —R.V. Drink this wine from 2021. Winesellers, Ltd. Editors’ between fruit and acidity, the wine is textured, crisp abv: 12.5% Price: $10 Choice. —R.V. and ready to drink. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Kelman Wines 2018 Encruzado (Dão). A ripe, 87 creamy wine with fresh apple and tangy Quinta dos Avidagos 2019 Reserva Arinto Quinta do Crasto 2018 Crasto Branco (Douro). acidity, this is fresh, generous and direct. The wine 91 (Douro). This grape, found throughout Portu- 87 A crisp, fruity and lightly mineral textured is ready to drink. Diniz Cellars. —R.V. gal, has produced a young but rich, spicy and smoky wine, this is bright with citrus and kiwi flavors. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 wine. The wood aging has given structure and extra The acidity and the wine’s freshness are now finely richness to the white fruits and intense acidity. focussed, ready to drink. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Magnum Carlos Lucas Vinhos 2019 Escadas Drink this wine from 2021. Douro Vino Selections. —R.V. 85 da Beira Branco (Dão). A soft, ripe wine with —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $20 orange-peel and peach flavors. This has a creamy abv: 13% Price: $32 texture and is fruity, with an attractive soft acid- Quinta dos Avidagos 2019 Avidagos Colheita ity at the end. Drink now. Green Bus Imports. —R.V. Duorum 2019 Colheita (Douro). Crisp, tex- 85 Branco (Douro). This is a light-textured abv: 12.5% Price: $15 90 tured and fruity, this wine is immediately wine that has hints of yellow fruits as well as lime bright and attractive. There is a fine tang of acid- and attractive acidity. The wine is crisp, tangy and ity allied to freshness and lemon-juice flavors. The ready to drink. Douro Vino Selections. —R.V. LISBOA wine’s wood aging has broadened its texture and abv: 13% Price: $12 added attractive toastiness. Drink the wine from Herdade do Rocim 2019 Vale da Mata 2021. Winebow. —R.V. 89 (Lisboa).­ A wine from the Lisboa vineyard abv: 13% Price: $20 DÃO owned by Alentejo producer Herdade do Rocim, this is cool and collected. Its tight acidity is still Quinta de Porrais 2018 Reserva Branco Magnum Carlos Lucas Vinhos 2018 Ribeiro s­eriously fresh and bright and does need to calm 90 (Douro). This fine, wood-aged wine is 93 Santo Vinha da Neve (Dão). Weighing in at down and let the white-fruit flavors shine. Drink bright with apple fruitiness and lightly toasty from a whopping 4.4 pounds, this body-building bottle from 2021. Shiverick Imports. —R.V. the barrels. It is crisp, supple while also textured contains a rather fine wood-aged wine. With its abv: 12.5% Price: $20 with minerality. Drink this attractive wine now. toastiness contrasting with the yellow-fruit and Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. baked apple flavors, the wine is developing into Parras Wines 2018 Quinta do Gradil Alvarinho abv: 13.5% Price: $NA richness, density, offering potential. Drink from 87 (Lisboa). With a bottle weighing in at an 2022. Wine Bridge Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. unnecessary 3.5 pounds, this wine is , Quinta do Crasto 2018 Crasto Superior abv: 13.5% Price: $35 full of cool-climate freshness as well as bright acid- 89 Branco (Douro). This blend of Viosinho ity. It is lightly textured and ready to drink. All Star and Verdelho, grown in the eastern vineyards of Fontes da Cunha 2018 Munda Encruzado Wine Imports, LLC. —R.V. the Douro Superior, has produced a rich, full wine, 92 (Dão). The aromatic combination of the abv: 13% Price: $14 showing minerality, hinting at almonds as well as wood aging and the perfumed fruit is a great intro- tangy orange-zest flavors. It is ready to drink. Folio duction to this rich, smoothly textured wine. With Parras Wines 2019 Quinta do Gradil Colheita­ Fine Wine Partners. —R.V. its ripe white fruits, and touches of spice and pep- 86 Branco (Lisboa). Sauvignon Blanc and abv: 12.5% Price: $29 per, the wine is toasty and ripe. Drink now. EcoValley. A­rinto bring their varied interpretations of acidity —R.V. together in this wine. It is lightly grassy, herbal with Quinta dos Avidagos 2018 Reserva (Douro). abv: 13.5% Price: $30 plenty of freshness and just a hint of orange zest. 89 The blend of Arinto and Viosinho is now Drink now. All Star Wine Imports, LLC. —R.V. mature and touched by toast. The wine’s acidity is Freire Lobo 2018 Vigno Encruzado (Dão). abv: 12.5% Price: $14 fully integrated with the yellow-fruit flavors that 91 Light oak aging has given this delicious, ripe wine intensity, spice and enhanced fruitiness. It

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Casca Wines 2019 Cabo da Roca Chardonnay- of pineapple. The wine is ready to drink. American freshness and lightness. Drink the wine now. LGL 85 Fernão Pires-Vital (Lisboa). This bright, B.D. —R.V. Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. light and fruity wine contrasts the richness of Char- abv: 13% Price: $14 abv: 13.5% Price: $8 donnay with the crisp texture of the two Portuguese grapes. With its fruitiness and lively acidity, the Quinta da Lagoalva Vinhos 2019 Vinha dos Adega de Borba 2019 Montes Claros Branco wine is ready to drink. Cellar Wines Distributing. 86 Vinte (Tejo). Bright, crisp and fruity, this 87 (Alentejo). The wine is soft, rounded with Best Buy. —R.V. lemon-flavored wine is lively and vibrantly fresh. a fine balance between its acidity and ripe white abv: 12.5% Price: $10 With its intense acidity, it is ready to drink. —R.V. stone fruits. With a perfumed crispness from the abv: 11.5% Price: $12 Arinto i­n the blend, the wine is ready to drink. LGL Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. TEJO Quinta da Lapa 2019 Chardonnay (Tejo). abv: 13.5% Price: $9 86 Green-plum and nutty flavors are attractive Quinta da Lapa 2019 Retro Fernão Pires facets of a ripe wine. Its fruitiness is intense at the Herdade de Coelheiros 2019 Coelheiros 90 (Tejo). Fermentation at higher than usual moment and will benefit from a few months more 87 (Alentejo).­ A fresh, crisp and creamy wine, temperatures and long skin contact has created a aging. Drink from 2021. D’Ouro Vino Selections. this is bright with acidity, apple and citrus flavors. wine that has structure and tannins, as well as ripe, —R.V. With a light tang of zest, the wine is ready to drink. textured yellow fruits. This unusual old style of abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Grape2Glass. —R.V. produces a rich wine. Drink from 2021. abv: 14% Price: $16 D’Ouro Vino Selections. —R.V. Quinta do Casal Branco 2018 Fernão Pires abv: 13% Price: $18 86 (Tejo). This crisp and fruity wine is breezy, with herbal flavors and lively acidity. This is tang ALENTEJANO Quinta do Casal Branco 2018 Falcoaria with lemon-zest and grapefruit flavors, ready to 90 Vinhas Velhas Fernão Pires (Tejo). Partly drink now. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. Howard’s Folly 2019 Sonhador Branco aged in wood, this is rich with the concentration abv: 13% Price: $16 90 (Alentejano). The cool mountain vineyards that old vines bring and the spice from the wood. of northeast Alentejo give this wine its crisp texture With its apple and lime-zest flavors, this attrac- Quinta da Lapa 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Tejo). while the granite soils bring in minerality. The wine tive wine easily offers ripeness and freshness. Drink 85 A tropical-fruit style of Sauvignon Blanc, with its hints of wood aging is textured and still now. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. this is softly textured and fruity. Pineapple and yel- young. So wait to drink until 2021. Tuscan Wine abv: 12.5% Price: $45 low fruits come through the wine’s texture and light Imports. —R.V. acidity. It is ready to drink. D’Ouro Vino Selections. abv: 14% Price: $22 Quinta S. Joao Batista 2018 Grande Reserva —R.V. 90 Branco (Tejo). This wood-aged wine has a abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Howard’s Folly 2018 Sonhador Branco (Alen- spicy character, with nutmeg and cinnamon showing 89 tejano). From a field blend, this partially strongly against the citrus and apricot flavors. With Quinta do Casal Branco 2019 Lobo e Falcão wood-aged wine is showing richness, maturity and richness as well as balance, the wine is just reaching 85 Branco (Tejo). Fernão Pires with a touch a fine tension between acidity, fruit and minerality. maturity. Drink now. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. of Moscatel make a fruity, lightly perfumed wine. The wine is perfectly ready to drink. Tuscan Wine abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Crisply textured, with bright citrus and a hint of Imports. —R.V. honey, the wine is ready to drink. Lionstone Inter- abv: 14% Price: $22 Quinta da Lagoalva Vinhos 2019 Monte da national. —R.V. 88 Casta Branco (Tejo). Soft and creamy, this is abv: 13% Price: $13 Casca Wines 2018 Monte Cascas Colheita a smooth wine that has already rounded its youth- 88 (Alentejano). This is a blend of fruit and ful corner. Its acidity and freshness come from zesty Quinta do Casal Branco 2019 Terra de Lobos freshness. Both grapes give the wine a fresh, green- orange and lime, giving a crisp streak that goes 85 Fernão Pires-Sauvignon Blanc (Tejo). The fruit character that’s filled out by yellow-fruit hints through this ready-to-drink wine. Best Buy. —R.V. crispness of the two grapes complement each other as well as the wine’s wood aging. The wine is ready abv: 11.5% Price: $12 well in this floral, fruity wine. It is light and bright, to drink. Cellar Wines Distributing. Best Buy. —R.V. with vibrant, tangy fruitiness. Drink now. Tri-Vin abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Quinta da Lagoalva Vinhos 2019 Special Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. 87 Selection­ (Tejo). A crisp, grassy and per- wabv: 13% wPrice: $10 Herdade do Esporão 2019 V Verdelho (Alente­ fumed blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Verdelho, this 87 jano). A textured, perfumed wine, this is is freshly attractive, with some softness within the rich and attractively fruity. With touches of apricot crisp character of the wine. Drink now. —R.V. ALENTEJO as well as layers of lime and freshly sliced apple, the abv: 12% Price: $13 wine is all about fruitiness. Drink now. Now Wine Adega de Borba 2019 Montes Claros Branco Imports. —R.V. Quinta da Lapa 2019 Alvarinho (Tejo). Crisp 89 Reserva (Alentejo). Wood fermented and abv: 14% Price: $14 87 and textured, this is a fresh, cool example aged, this is a ripe wine. Its acidity and freshness of this grape. It has hints of apricots that give the are tempered by the spicy edge and touches of Herdade do Rocim 2019 Verdelho (Alente- wine ripeness but the main, attractive thrust is of toast. This gives a sophisticated texture to the wine 87 jano). Juicy with some spice and almond fla- tight, tangy citrus flavors. Drink now. D’Ouro Vino that will age a little further. Drink from 2021. LGL vors among the green-fruit flavors, this is brightly Selections. —R.V. I­mports LLC. —R.V. attractive and packed with fruitiness. Drink now. abv: 12% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Shiverick Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $22 Quinta da Alorna 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Adega de Borba 2019 Castelo de Borba 86 (Tejo). A lightly herbal, grassy wine has 87 (Alentejo).­ Antão Vaz is the Alentejo white Monte da Ravasqueira 2019 Ravasqueira great freshness as well as attractive acidity. There variety and this wine shows how its acidity and 87 Reserva da Familia (Alentejano). An intrigu- is also a nod to the warm Tejo climate with hints crispness survives well in the hot climate. Lovely ing blend of Alvarinho and Viognier, the wine is lemony fruit flavors dance across the palate in fruity, crisp and fresh. The Viognier does bring a rounder texture to the mix that is further enhanced

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 by the short wood-aging’s spice. The wine has a is showing a fine nutty character while preserving Casca Wines 2014 Altitude Brut (Távora- perfumed, lively aftertaste. Drink now. LGL Imports acidity and a tangy citrus flavor. With its rounded 90 Varosa). A region south of LLC. —R.V. aftertaste, the wine is at the cusp between freshness the Douro Valley is the source of this wine. Based abv: 12.5% Price: $20 and maturity. Drink now. Aidil Wines/Old World ­mainly on a blend of Touriga Nacional and Malvasia Import. —R.V. it is a perfumed, softly textured wine, with attrac- abv: 13% Price: $25 tive clean apple and peach flavors. With its touch of OTHER WHITE WINES maturity, it is ready to drink. Cellar Wines Distribut- Adega de Cantanhede 2012 Marquês de ing. —R.V. Magnum Carlos Lucas Vinhos 2017 Casa 90 Marialva Cuvée Extra Bruto (Bairrada). Aged abv: 12.5% Price: $30 92 Grande Sant’Anna Alvarinho (Minho). This is for three years on its lees before disgorgement, this a beautifully mature wine. There is spice, toastiness wine has developed an attractive toasty character Quinta da Lapa 2016 Brut Nature Reserva and fine ripe and generous white fruits, all softened that underlines its floral, fruity character. It is a 89 (Tejo). A bright, fruity wine, this has a lively and given richness by the aging. Drink this wine finely wrought wine, ready to drink. Aidil Wines/ mousse and crisp apple and pear acidity. The Arinto now. Green Bus Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Old World Import. —R.V. gives its signature freshness and tight texture. Drink abv: 13% Price: $27 abv: 12.5% Price: $35 now. D’Ouro Vino Selections. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $20 Quinta de Foz de Arouce 2019 Beira Atlantico. Kompassus 2016 Blanc Brut (Bairrada). A 92 This estate, situated just east of Coimbra, 90 crisp, refreshing wine, this is full of citrus Quinta da Lapa 2018 Nana Rosé Bruto (Tejo). has released this wood-aged, perfumed and sophis- flavors as well as delicious floral apples and acidity. 88 Touriga Nacional and Aragonez make a ticated wine made from 100% Cerceal. The wine’s The wine has a light minerality that adds texture fresh, red-currant flavored wine. Its crisp texture fruity acidity blends with the acidity and tense tex- to its freshness. Drink now. Wine Bridge Imports. and clean, bright acidity are just right, giving a ture from the wood, enhancing the crisp apple and —R.V. wine that is ready to drink. D’Ouro Vino Selections. toastiness. Drink now. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $20 —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $30 abv: 12% Price: $18 Adega de Cantanhede 2016 Marquês de Parras Wines 2019 Casa das Gaeiras Branco 87 ­Marialva Baga Blanc de Noirs Bruto (Bairrada). Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2018 Plexus 89 (Obidos). All about the bright fruit and A soft, fruity wine, this has a creamy mousse and 86 (Tejo). This is an attractive, fruity wine, freshly sliced apples, this attractive blend of Arinto, a light texture from the tannins of the Baga grape. crisp with acidity that balances the medium-sweet Chardonnay and Fernão Pires is lifted, crisp, still Its acidity is now softening, giving a hint of toast in flavors. Bright, lively, it is ready to drink. Wine young. It has vibrant acidity and refreshing after- its place. Drink now. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. ­Enterprises LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. taste, totally ready to drink. All Star Wine Imports, —R.V. abv: 9.5% Price: $7 LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $19 abv: 13% Price: $12 Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2018 Plexus Adega de Cantanhede NV Marquês de Marialva­ 85 Tinto (Tejo). Produced from 100% Alicante Lima & Smith 2018 Covela Branco (Minho). 87 Baga Rosé Bruto (Beira Atlantico). The local Bouschet, this red sparkling wine shows slight tan- 88 Made mainly from Avesso, this wine comes red grape, Baga, lends a floral as well as a structured nins and plenty of spice. It is dry, unlike the others from vines grown on the north bank of the Douro character to this wine. Packed with red fruits, red in this range of sparkling wines and will be a fine river at the southern limit of Vinho Verde region. Its currants and raspberries, the wine is crisply tex- food wine. Drink now. Wine Enterprises LLC. Best lemon fruitiness is crisp although there is also some tured and ready to drink. Aidil Wines/Old World Buy. —R.V. richness from the wine’s ripe pear flavors. Drink Import. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $7 now. Kindred Vines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 abv: 13% Price: $25 Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2018 Plexus Adega de Cantanhede NV Marquês de Marialva­ 83 Rose (Tejo). A medium-sweet pink wine, Venâncio Costa Lima 2019 Pioneiro Branco 87 Blanc de Blancs Bruto (Beira Atlantico). Bical this blends Castelão and Tinta Roriz, which has the 88 (Península de Setúbal). The Moscatel and Arinto produce a spicy, lightly peppered wine. benefit of at least being clean and fruity. Drink now. grapes in this white blend add an attractive perfume Its white fruits and acidity shine brightly through Wine Enterprises LLC. —R.V. with hints of lychee and floral character. The wine’s the hints of mineral texture. The wine is ready to abv: 9.5% Price: $7 Fernão Pires grapes bring fine freshness and a crisp drink. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. aftertaste. Drink now. Kysela Père et Fils.Best Buy. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 —R.V. ROSÉS abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Magnum Carlos Lucas Vinhos 2015 Ribeiro 88 Santo Bruto (Dão). This sparkling wine, Fontes da Cunha 2019 Quinta do Mondego produced from white grapes, is crisp and fruity. Its 88 Rosé (Dão). A ripe, strawberry and fresh SPARKLING WINES light apple and pear flavors are zesty with bright fruit flavored wine, this is attractively ripe and bal- acidity shining through the soft texture. Drink now. anced. The wine is warm, full bodied and ready to Adega de Cantanhede 2014 Marquês de Wine Bridge Imports. —R.V. drink. EcoValley. —R.V. 91 ­Marialva Baga Cuvée Bruto (Bairrada). This abv: 12% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 blanc de noirs from the local red Baga grape is a finely made wine. Its hint of structure is balanced by Bernard Magrez NV Ariela Bruto (Portugal). Monte da Ravasqueira 2018 Ravasqueira the bright fruitiness and crisp red-currant flavors. 88 Produced from Pinot Blanc, this crisp and 88 Premium Rosé (Alentejano). Wood-aged for The wine is still packed with fruit, deliciously ready ripe sparkling wine is perfumed, lit by citrus fruits six months, this softly textured wine balances ripe to drink. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. and rounded by creamed apples. A light texture red fruits with a boost of acidity. The wine is attrac- abv: 12.5% Price: $55 holds all this fruitiness together. Drink now. Misa tively fruity, lightly spicy and ready to drink. LGL Imports. —R.V. Imports LLC. —R.V. Adega de Cantanhede 2015 Marquês de abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 13% Price: $30 90 Marialva Bical & Arinto Reserva (Bairrada). Aged for two years on lees, this ripe, mature wine

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Quintas de Melgaço 2019 QM Rosé (Minho). fruits and some fine potential. Drink the wine from 88 A blend of white Alvarinho and red Sousão, PORTUGAL 2022. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —R.V. this is an intriguing wine. Its freshness and citrus abv: 14.5% Price: $87 character comes from the white grape, while the RED WINES Sousão gives the color and texture. Together, they Quinta do Crasto 2016 Touriga Nacional make a deliciously bright and fruity wine. Drink DOURO 94 (Douro). This wine completes a trio of now. Le Wine Importer. —R.V. ­single-varietal wines, showcasing the top grapes abv: 12.5% Price: $30 Quinta do Crasto 2015 Honore (Douro). This of the Douro. This perfumed, ripe and stylish 97 rare bottling blends the quinta’s two top wine is rich with black fruits, while also stylishly Quinta da Lapa 2019 Nana Rosé (Tejo). A vineyards: Vinha Maria Teresa and Vinha de Ponte. restrained. It is just approaching its peak, but will 87 ripe, rounded and balanced wine, this has Made to celebrate the 400th anniversary of the certainly age well. Drink now, but better wait until red-berry fruits and a fine freshness. Crisp while founding of the estate, it is a seriously rich, impres- 2021. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —R.V. also full of generous fruitiness, the wine is ready to sive wine. It brings out the great concentration of abv: 13.5% Price: $78 drink. D’Ouro Vino Selections. —R.V. the old vines in the two vineyards and obviously abv: 12% Price: $15 demands considerable aging. Its rich tannins and Quinta do Crasto 2016 Touriga Franca (Douro).­ powerful black fruits have many years ahead of 93 One of a series of single-varietal wines from Quinta dos Avidagos 2018 Reserva Rosé them. Drink from 2025. Folio Fine Wine Partners. this producer, this wine celebrates one of the essen- 87 (Douro). Aged for three months in wood, Cellar Selection. —R.V. tial grapes of the Douro region. It is a balanced, rich, this deeply colored rosé has spice and toastiness abv: 14.5% Price: $1450/1.5 L black-fruit dominated, while also succulent wine. as much as fruit. It’s mature, ripe with hints of red Generous tannins have been softened by the wood fruits and ready to drink. Douro Vino Selections. Quinta do Crasto 2016 Vinha da Ponte (­ aging into a luxurious texture. Drink the wine now. —R.V. 96 Douro). This originates from a field blend Folio Fine Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $24 from a vineyard that is now at least 100-years-old. abv: 13.5% Price: $78 The wine is concentrated and dense. Fermented in Quinta do Casal Branco 2019 Terra de Lobos open lagars, the wine has great potential for opu- Quinta dos Avidagos 2016 Grande Reserva 86 Rosé (Tejo). Touriga Nacional and Syrah lence and generosity. As the wine’s tannins soften, it 93 (Douro). This is a rich, properly mature make a soft, fruity wine, just lightly textured. With will reveal amazing richness. Drink from 2024. Folio wine that has developed leather and tarry charac- its fresh fruit, red-currant flavors and crisp acid- Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —R.V. ters while keeping its rich black fruits. Aging for ity, this is an attractive, tangy wine that is ready to abv: 14% Price: $242 18 months in wood made the wine rich, dense with drink. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. spice and with a touch of pepper as well as acidity abv: 12% Price: $10 Kopke 2015 Vinhas Velhas Limited Edition at the end. Drink now. Douro Vino Selections. —R.V. 95 (Douro). From old vines growing on the abv: 15% Price: $80 Casca Wines 2019 1808 Colheita Rosé (Beira stone terraces at the producer’s Quinta de São Luiz, 85 Interior). This is a bright, light and fruity this is a fine, ripe, mature wine. Its rich tannins Quinta dos Murças 2018 Margem (Douro). wine that has attractive red-currant and raspberry have smoothed generously into the wine’s black 93 For full review see page 11. flavors. This is crisp, piled with acidity as well as fruits. Secondary flavors, spice and a general sense abv: 13% Price: $65 fruitiness. Drink now. Suitable for vegans. Organic. of opulence give this wine authority. It is ready to Cellar Wines Distributing. —R.V. drink. Wine In-Motion. —R.V. Quinta dos Murças 2015 Reserva Vinhas Vel- abv: 12% Price: $13 abv: 13.5% Price: $90 93 has (Douro). For full review see page 11. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Adega de Borba 2019 Premium Rosé (Alen- Quinta do Crasto 2016 Vinha Mara Teresa 84 tejo). Crisp and ripe, this is a simple, fruity 95 (Douro). From a field blend of vines that are Casca Wines 2018 Bote Sailing Boat Reserva wine, with red-currant and raspberry flavors. lentyP­ now 110-years-old, this is a magnificent wine. Its 92 Touriga Nacional-Touriga Franca (Douro). of tangy acidity gives it a lift at the end. Drink now. rich tannins, dark fruits and perfumed acidity are Perfumed and ripe, this is a firm, concentrated wine LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. just a part of the extreme concentration and con- from its Portugal collection. It shows the Douro’s abv: 12.5% Price: $15 siderable potential. Named after a granddaughter of minerality and structure, bringing out tannins the founder of estate, the wine is ageless. Drink at and ripe black-plum flavors. The wine has a fine Casca Wines 2019 Cabo da Roca Rosé (­Lisboa). the earliest from 2023. Folio Fine Wine Partners. future, and will be best from 2022. Cellar Wines 84 This soft, rounded wine has touches of cara- —R.V. ­Distributing. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. mel to give extra richness to the strawberry flavors. abv: 14.5% Price: $242 abv: 14% Price: $20 It is ready to drink. Cellar Wines Distributing. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $10 Quinta dos Murças 2015 VV47 (Douro). For Ramos-Pinto 2018 Duas Quintas Reserva 95 full review see page 5. 92 (Douro). The latest release of this iconic Quinta da Lapa 2019 Selection Rosé Rosé abv: 14% Price: $90 wine is beautifully structured, packed with black 84 (Tejo). The wine is crisp, clean and fruity, fruits and acidity. Coming from the producer’s with red currant freshness. It does have consid- Quinta do Crasto 2016 Reserva Vinhas Quinta da Ervamoira and Quinta dos Bons Ares, erable acidity that is almost shockingly intense. 94 Velhas­ (Douro). For full review see page 8. the wine is dense, concentrated and certainly age- Maybe by 2021 this will have softened. D’Ouro Vino Editors’ Choice. worthy. Drink this fine wine from 2022. Maisons Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $8 abv: 14.5% Price: $44 Quinta do Crasto 2016 Tinta Roriz (Douro). Quinta dos Avidagos 2019 Avidagos Colheita 94 In the series of single-variety wines from Lima & Smith 2019 Tecedeiras Lilás (Douro). 83 Rosé (Douro). A strawberry-candy flavored this producer, this wine is rich, generously and 91 Bold tannins and rich black fruits mark a wine, this has shockingly bright acidity and a smoothly textured. Tinta Roriz, aka , wine that has youth and also a fine potential. It ­vibrant feel. The wine is ready to drink. Douro Vino gives a powerful, concentrated wine, with ripe black is structured and complex, balancing acidity and Selections. —R.V. black-plum-skin flavors with firm tannins. Drink abv: 13% Price: $12

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 the wine from 2023. Kindred Vines. Editors’ softening well to give a ripe, fruity wine that has softly tannic wine. With rich black plums, a light Choice. —R.V. touches of spice and a smoky character. The wine, touch of spice and a generous, ripe aftertaste, this abv: 13.5% Price: $17 with its red-berry flavors, is ready to drink. Douro wine is attractive and ready to drink. All Star Wine Vino Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. Imports, LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. Quinta do Crasto 2017 Crasto Superior (D­ouro). abv: 14% Price: $12 abv: 13% Price: $10 91 For full review see page 17. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $29 Fontes da Cunha 2019 Mondego Jaen (Dão). DÃO 87 Pale red in color, this is a light, fruity wine Quinta do Vallado 2018 Vallado Tinto that has developed quickly. With its red-cherry 90 (Douro). For full review see page 21. Edi- Fontes da Cunha 2017 Munda (Dão). This fruitiness and soft texture, it is an easy wine to tors’ Choice. 93 ­Alfrocheiro is defiantly Dão in its structure, drink now. EcoValley. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $23 its rich tannins and its strong granitic ­minerality. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 The wine has softened and integrated so that there Quinta dos Avidagos 2016 Premium (­ are some fine secondary flavors balancing this Magnum Carlos Lucas Vinhos 2017 Escadas 90 Douro). This estate, in the Corgo river val- strong texture. Drink this fine wine now. EcoValley. 86 da Beira Reserva (Dão). With three years ley, was created in the 18th century. This rich wine, —R.V. since harvest, this is a fine, rich wine. Its tannins with its fully integrated tannins and black fruits, is abv: 13% Price: $49 and ripe fruit are fully integrated into the generous ripe, still full of life and with a powerful structure. blackberry and smoky flavors. The wine is totally The wine can be drunk now, but will be better from Fontes da Cunha 2015 Munda Touriga ­Nacional ready to drink. Green Bus Imports. —R.V. 2021. Douro Vino Selections. —R.V. 92 (Dão). This is a ripe, perfumed wine, finely abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $42 structured and approaching maturity. Fermented and aged in wood, it has richness, a dense texture Magnum Carlos Lucas Vinhos 2019 Escadas Lima & Smith 2018 Flor das Tecedeiras and black-fruit flavors that have softened into rich- 84 da Beira (Dão). A blend of the classic Dão 89 (Douro). This dense, juicy wine has some ness. With its concentration, the wine has power grapes of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Alfro- bold tannins as well as concentrated black fruits. as well as a warm, opulent character. Drink now. cheiro, the wine has earthy aromas that translate The wine has some freshness in the acidity, as well ­EcoValley. —R.V. into rustic fruitiness. This is a wine for barbecues, as a dry core that needs to soften. Drink from 2021. abv: 14% Price: $45 and easy drinking with fruitiness. Drink now. Green Kindred Vines. —R.V. Bus Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $23 Magnum Carlos Lucas Vinhos 2018 Ribeiro abv: 13% Price: $12 91 Santo Vinha de Santa Maria Cabanas de Viri- Quinta dos Avidagos 2017 Reserva (Douro). ato Reserva (Dão). This is a fine, perfumed wine. 89 Four of the principal Douro grapes, includ- Rich tannins and spicy flavors are moulded by the LISBOA ing 50% Touriga Nacional go into this ripe wine. wood flavors, eucalyptus and rich black fruits. This The tannins are still very present, backed by juicy is a fine, ripe and fruity wine that is still a little Casa Santos Lima 2017 Palha Canas (Lisboa). fruits and touches of wood aging. The wine should young. Give it more time and drink from 2022. 91 This is a satisfyingly ripe, mature wine. The age a further, so drink from 2022. Douro Vino Green Bus Imports. —R.V. black fruits and rich tannins are developing well, ­Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $27 giving a balance between the fresher acidity and the abv: 14% Price: $24 spicier flavors. The wine is ready to drink. Tri-Vin Kelman Wines 2016 Reserva Lagar (Dão). A Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. Duorum 2018 Tons de Duorum (Douro). This 90 classic Dão blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta­ abv: 14.5% Price: $15 88 young, bright and fruity wine is packed Roriz and Alfrocheiro, this wine is still developing. with blackberry flavors. Tannins and a mineral tex- The rich tannins and the mineral texture of the Casca Wines 2018 Bote Sailing Boat Reserva ture are reminders that this comes from the Douro’s wine are still working towards maturity. Fermented 90 Touriga Nacional-Merlot (Lisboa). A year schist soils. That makes for a ripe wine that has in open stone lagars, the wine has a rounded, full in wood has produced a rich, elegant and balanced structure. Drink from 2021. Winebow. Best Buy. character that will bring future richness. Drink the wine. Firm tannins are paired with concentrated —R.V. wine from 2021. Diniz Cellars. —R.V. black fruits, acidity and a fine smoky aftertaste. The abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 14% Price: $30 wine could age a little further, so drink from 2021. Cellar Wines Distributing. —R.V. Monte da Ravasqueira 2019 Terraços de Magnum Carlos Lucas Vinhos 2019 Ribeiro abv: 14.5% Price: $20 88 Xisto (Douro). The schist soil of the Douro 90 Santo Bastardo (Dão). This is a wonder- vineyards is what gives the wine its minerality and fully rich, dense, mineral driven wine. Its power- Parras Wines 2018 Quinta do Gradil Colheita texture. This young wine is striated with this taut- ful tannins and solid structure speak of the granite 90 (Lisboa). This is a rare blend of Tannat ness while also having fine black fruits and acidity. soils of the Dão region. It is still young, bright with and Touriga Nacional. The result is firmly struc- Drink the wine from 2021. LGL Imports LLC. Best red fruits and should age further. Drink from 2021. tured, rich in dark fruits, solid tannins as well as Buy. —R.V. Wine Bridge Imports. —R.V. ripe black-plum flavors. The balance of this wine abv: 14% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $29 is well established, giving a succulent richness to the wine’s density. Drink from 2021. All Star Wine Quinta do Crasto 2018 Crasto Tinto (­Douro). Kelman Wines 2017 Kelman Tinto (Dão). ­Imports, LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. 88 This is a ripe, full and generous wine. 88 This mature, juicy wine, with its soft tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $14 Touches of minerality give the black fruits structure nins and red fruits, is lightly structured and ready but do not detract from the wine’s rich fruitiness. to drink. It has a line of bright acidity that comes Quinta de S. Sebastião 2018 Arreio (Lisboa). The wine is very ready to drink. Folio Fine Wine from the wine’s mature fruitiness. Diniz Cellars. 90 The wine has a generous, rich character Partners. —R.V. —R.V. that is structured by the blend of Touriga Nacional abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 and Cabernet Sauvignon. With some bottle age, the wine has become rich, the black fruits have evolved, Quinta dos Avidagos 2017 Avidagos Colheita Parras Wines 2018 Evidëncia Tinto (Dão). 87 Tinto (Douro). Ripe berry fruits are now 88 This is an open, black-fruit flavored and

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BUYINGGUIDE the tannins have softened and the wine is ready to and Syrah is ready to drink. Wein Bauer Inc. Best perfectly mature and ready to drink. Vinamericas drink. Wein Bauer Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. Buy. —R.V. ­Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $49

Quinta de S. Sebastião 2018 SyTR (Lisboa). Casa Santos Lima 2019 Blend Portugal Adega Cooperativa do Cartaxo 2013 ­Desalmado 90 A rich, wood-aged wine, this has a fine 86 (Lisboa).­ This simple, fruity blend has been 91 (Tejo). This heavy bottle, weighing 3.3 smoky and black-fruit character. Blending Syrah aged briefly in wood to soften the wine’s bright pounds, contains a richly mature wine. It is bal- and Tinta Roriz, the wine has spice, light toasti- fruitiness. With light tannins, blackberry fruits and anced, ripe with spice, hints of wood aging and ness and, above all, bold, rich blackberry fruits. The a touch of spice, the wine is ready to drink. Tri-Vin generous smoky, licorice flavors. At seven years old, wine is just ready to drink. Wein Bauer Inc. Best Imports. —R.V. the wine is totally ready to drink. Wine Enterprises Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $49 Casca Wines 2019 Cabo da Roca Syrah- Quinta de S. Sebastião 2018 Mina Velha 86 Castelão-Aragonez (Lisboa). This bright Quinta da Alorna 2017 Reserva Touriga Nacio- 89 Reserva (Lisboa). Aged for six months in wine brings out its fruitiness as well as light tan- 91 nal-Cabernet Sauvignon (Tejo). Produced wood, the wine has structure and firm tannins. It nins and a warm, open structure. Blackberry flavors from a selection of fruit, this rich, wood-aged wine has a serious, dry character that will give the wine have spice and ripeness as well as a fresh streak at is densely textured. Its firm black fruits are matur- density and dark fruits as it ages. The wine should the end. Drink now. Cellar Wines Distributing. Best ing well, moving from pure fruitiness to spice and be ready from 2021. Wein Bauer Inc. —R.V. Buy. —R.V. perfumes. This is a fine, ageworthy wine that will abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 be ready from 2021. American B.D. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Quinta de S. Sebastião 2018 Q.S.S. 1755 Casa Santos Lima 2019 Topo Red Blend 89 Reserva (Lisboa). The wine commemorates 85 (Lisboa).­ A light, bright and fruity wine, Quinta da Lapa 2016 Reserva (Tejo). This rich the founding of this estate in 1755. With its dark this has red-berry flavors and a fine line in refresh- 91 blend of four grapes is at perfect maturity tannins and firm structure, the wood-aged wine has ing acidity. A little wood aging has tamed the wine’s with its smooth tannins, hints of undergrowth fla- weight and rich black fruits to balance the dry core. fruitiness and it is ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. vors and generous tannins. The wine’s ripeness has Drink the wine from 2021. Wein Bauer Inc. —R.V. Best Buy. —R.V. now matured into a fine spicy character. It is ready abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 to drink. D’Ouro Vino Selections. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $27 Quinta de S. Sebastião 2019 Mina Velha Quinta de S. Sebastião 2019 Forte do Cego 88 (Lisboa). Named after the water source 85 (Lisboa). A smoothly textured, open wine, Quinta da Lapa 2017 Reserva Syrah (Tejo). under the vineyard, this wine is a stylish blend of this has ripe berry fruits, soft tannins and a juicy, 91 This luscious, generous wine manages to har- Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. Its fine tannins friendly character. The wine is ready to drink. Wein ness the perfumes and structure of the grape with and structured black fruits are rich and with a good Bauer Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. great style. It is a rich wine, powerful and dense balance. Drink the wine now. Wein Bauer Inc. Best abv: 13% Price: $10 while also having elegance and freshness. Drink Buy. —R.V. now. D’Ouro Vino Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 14% Price: $18 TEJO Parras Wines 2018 Mula Velha Reserva Quinta da Lapa 2017 Reserva Merlot (Tejo). 87 (Lisboa).­ This is an immediately attrac- Quinta da Lapa 2015 Santa Teresa d’Avila 90 One of a series of single-varietal wines from tive, lightly textured and fruity wine. Black currant 93 Homenagem Reserva (Tejo). The inky-black this producer, the wine is full of brisk red fruits, flavors and juicy acidity are given a touch of wood color of this wine comes from impressive Alicante with juicy acidity and the beginnings of maturity. aging to round the wine out and make it totally Bouschet. It is a rich wine, packed with dense tan- It is a delicious, rich wine that is ready to drink. ready to drink. All Star Wine Imports, LLC. Best nins and perfumes from the wood aging. Bold black D’Ouro Vino Selections. —R.V. Buy. —R.V. fruits give the wine great ripeness and as well as the abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 beginnings of maturity. Drink the wine from 2021. D’Ouro Vino Selections. —R.V. Quinta do Casal Branco 2018 Lobo e Falcão Parras Wines 2018 Ruelas Reserva (Lisboa). abv: 14% Price: $35 90 Reserva (Tejo). A wood-aged blend, this 87 Ripe red fruits with a touch of wood and a wine includes Syrah and a touch of Cabernet Sau- fine, maturing structure, all give this wine richness. Rui Reguinga 2018 Tributo (Tejo). This vignon. It is structured with smoky black fruits and Along with vibrant acidity, the wine is balanced and 93 rich, wood-aged wine has a touch of white a pinch of spice. Produced from a vineyard selec- ready to drink. MS Walker. Best Buy. —R.V. Viognier to soften the power of the concentrated tion, the wine could age further. Drink from 2021. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 black fruits. The wine has a ripe southern feel to Lionstone International. —R.V. it, ­although the firm tannins do give structure and abv: 14% Price: $20 Quinta de S. Sebastião 2019 Miradouro da aging potential. The richness and the structure are 87 Vinha (Lisboa). Bright with red fruits, the developing together. Drink from 2022. Grape2Glass. Terra Silvestre 2016 Grande Reserva (Tejo). wine is open, balancing fresh acidity and a gen- —R.V. 90 Two-and-a-half years in wood have given a tle tannic structure. The wine with its friendly abv: 14.5% Price: $40 perfumed wine that has strong wood alongside the ­character and young, vibrant fruit is ready to drink. wine’s warm black fruits. This rich blend of Touriga Wein Bauer Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. Terra Silvestre 2014 Grande Reserva (Tejo). Franca, Syrah and is stylish and abv: 13% Price: $10 92 Two big, bold grapes (Syrah and Alicante only just ready to drink. Vinamericas Selections. Bouschet) have come together in this mature wine. —R.V. Quinta de S. Sebastião 2019 Portão 9 (­Lisboa). It has flavors of old toastiness, along with rich black abv: 13.5% Price: $49 87 A softly textured, juicy red-fruit flavored fruits that have developed undergrowth flavors wine, this has an attractively perfumed character. and have softened the wine’s tannins. The wine is Quinta da Lapa 2017 Retro Clarete (Tejo). A This lightly structured blend of Touriga Nacional 88 blend of white and red grapes, following a recipe created by medieval monks, this wine is light,

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 fruity with soft tannins and the freshest acidity. is an immediately drinkable wine. With its red-­ to drink. Just wait until early 2021. Aidil Wines/Old Drink now. D’Ouro Vino Selections. Best Buy. —R.V. berry flavors and gentle tannins, it has a friendly, World Import. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12 open feel. Drink now. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: NA Price: $13 Quinta do Casal Branco 2019 Lobo e Falcão Adega de Borba 2018 Montes Claros 87 (Tejo). This easy, soft and fruity wine has 86 (Alentejo).­ An open, fruity and juicy wine, plenty of black-currant fruit flavors that are lifted by ALENTEJO this has simple red-berry fruits. Lit by the acidity the acidity and freshness. Driven by the fruitiness, and spice, the wine is an easy blend of Aragonez, this wine is ready to drink. Lionstone International. Herdade do Rocim 2018 Clay Aged (­Alentejo). Syrah and Touriga Nacional. Drink now. LGL —R.V. 93 Foot trodden in open stone lagars and aged ­Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $13 in an amphora, this wine reflects a traditional way abv: 14% Price: $9 of life. Its rich fruits and opulent texture give it an Quinta do Casal Branco 2018 Red Blend open, full-bodied character, enhanced by the warm 87 (Tejo). Syrah and Alicante Bouschet domi- structure. Drink the wine from 2022. Shiverick ALENTEJANO nate this full, dark-colored wine. It has dark tannins I­mports. —R.V. and ripe juicy blackberry fruits. There is a fine layer abv: 14% Price: $51 Casa Relvas 2018 Herdade de São Miguel Pé of spice to bring out the wine’s richness. Drink now. 94 de Mãe (Alentejano). This vineyard-select Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. J. Portugal Ramos 2018 Marquês de Borba wine, wood aged for 18 months, is powerful and abv: 14% Price: $16 92 Vinhas Velhas (Alentejo). From old vines, dense, and still very young. Rich tannins, licorice this structured blend of Alicante Bouschet, Ara- and spice flavors along with concentrated blackber- Terra Silvestre 2018 Private Selection (Tejo). gonez, Castelão and Syrah has density and rich tan- ries, give this wine power and aging potential. It is 87 Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, hardly a nins. It has solid black fruits and concentration that impressively rich, drink from 2023. Quintessential typical Portuguese blend, gives a stylish wine with gives a rich, licorice and spice flavor to the fruiti- Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. softened tannins and attractive red-berry flavors. ness. Age this wine further, drink from 2022. Aidil abv: 14% Price: $75 A touch of spice and wood add to the wine’s final Wines/Old World Import. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. freshness. Vinamericas Selections. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Casa Relvas 2018 Herdade de São Miguel abv: 14% Price: $19 94 Reserva (Alentejano). For full review see Adega de Borba 2017 Quintas de Borba page 6. Cellar Selection. Quinta da Lagoalva Vinhos 2019 Monte da 89 (Alentejo). This is a ripe wine. Packed with abv: 15% Price: $35 86 Casta Tinto (Tejo). A ripe, spicy wine, this tannins and densely textured, it has black-plum haswood flavors filling out the black-currant fruits. fruits, and a dark color from the Alicante Bouschet Monte da Ravasqueira 2014 Ravasqueira It is young and fruity but perfectly ready to drink. in the blend. Drink this rich wine now. LGL Imports 94 Premium (Alentejano). This is a major wine, —R.V. LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. aged for two years in wood and sustained by sub- abv: 12% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $9 stantial fruit weight. Dense black fruits, rich tan- nins, powerful spice and a finely rounded texture all Quinta da Lagoalva Vinhos 2019 Vinha dos Adega de Borba 2018 Reserva (Alentejo). come together in an impressive concentration. The 86 Vinte (Tejo). Showing toasty flavors and 88 With its cork label as a reminder that this wine is now mature although still showing consid- overripe black fruits, this is a generous wine that wine comes from the Portuguese heartland of cork erable life and freshness. Drink now. LGL Imports has smooth tannins and a juicy aftertaste. Drink production, this fruity wood-aged wine has light LLC. —R.V. now. —R.V. tannins and generous black fruits. It is not for long- abv: 14% Price: $60 abv: 14% Price: $12 term aging and this wine is enjoyably ready to drink now. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. Howard’s Folly 2015 Reserva (Alentejano). abv: 14% Price: $18 93 The top wine from this producer is now PENÍNSULA DE SETÚBAL impressively mature. The blend of Syrah and Ali- Adega de Borba 2018 Castelo de Borba cante Bouschet grown on granite soils brings out José Maria da Fonseca 2017 Pasmados 87 (Alentejo).­ A gentle aging in oak for a few terrific richness along with a cooler elegant side. 90 (Península de Setúbal). With 10 months of months has brought spice to the soft black fruiti- The wine is now developing maturity and is ready to wood aging, the wine, dominated by Touriga Nacio- ness of this wine. It is perfumed, fruity and with drink. Tuscan Wine Imports. —R.V. nal, has velvet tannins, layers of juicy black fruits gentle tannins that have fully integrated with the abv: 15% Price: $55 and a full, rich texture. The tannins show the wine fruit. Drink now. LGL Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. could benefit from further aging, so wait to drink abv: 14% Price: $8 Monte da Ravasqueira 2018 Ravasqueira this stylish wine from 2021. LGL Imports LLC. Best 93 Reserva da Familia (Alentejano). This is a Buy. —R.V. Herdade de Coelheiros 2018 Coelheiros beautifully structured blend of Touriga Nacional abv: 14% Price: $15 87 (Alentejo).­ A fruity, still lightly tannic, and Syrah. Its richness is generous, full of black wine with a dry core, this is a juicy blend of Touriga fruits, ripe tannins and a fine, smooth texture. With José Maria da Fonseca 2018 Vinhas de ­Nacional and Alicante Bouschet. With its layers of a fine jammy, juicy character, along with layers of 88 ­Algeruz Reserva (Península de Setúbal). black fruit and acidity, the wine can age. Drink from fruitiness, the wine is well ready to drink. LGL This wine comes from the recently-purchased Vinha 2021. Grape2Glass. —R.V. I­mports LLC. —R.V. Grande de Algeruz vineyard. A blend of Castelão and abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 14% Price: $20 Syrah, it is perfumed with ripe red fruits and ­plenty of dense juicy fruitiness. Everything is under- J. Portugal Ramos 2019 Marquês de Borba Monte da Ravasqueira 2017 Ravasqueira pinned by the wine’s toastiness from wood aging. 87 Colheita (Alentejo). Wood aged and ripe, this 93 Syrah-Viognier (Alentejano). In the style Drink now. LGL Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. is a rounded, young and fruity wine. With its blend of a Côte-Rôtie blend from the Rhône Valley, the abv: 14% Price: $11 of six grapes, it represents a fine cross-section of wine is richly textured, mature with plenty of ripe the vintage—rich, softly textured and almost ready ­tannins. A mineral texture gives an edge to the wine Venâncio Costa Lima 2018 Pioneiro Tinto that makes it both rich and structured. Black-plum 87 (Península de Setúbal). Soft and fruity, this

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BUYINGGUIDE fruits and acidity show well at the end. Drink this now a generous, rounded wine. It is just beginning this wine is finely balanced and ready to drink. impressive wine from 2021. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. its maturity, with the secondary flavors creeping Lionstone International. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $22 into the black fruits. Drink this rich, full wine now. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Tuscan Wine Imports. —R.V. Casa Relvas 2018 Herdade de São Miguel abv: 15% Price: $22 Herdade do Rocim 2019 Alentejano. Young, 92 Escolha dos Enólogos (Alentejano). For full 88 fruity and full of berry and spice flavors, review see page 12. Monte da Ravasqueira 2019 Dona Vitoria this is full, generous and set to soften, to open and abv: 14.5% Price: $25 90 Coleção Privada (Alentejano). This dense to be ready to drink. Wait a few months and drink wine from the warm vineyards of the Alentejo from mid-2021. Shiverick Imports. —R.V. Howard’s Folly 2013 Winemaker’s Choice ­region has a ripe texture, rich luxurious black fruits abv: 14.5% Price: $16 92 (Alentejano). Now perfectly mature, this is and juicy acidity. Combined together, they have a balanced, perfumed wine. Ripe tannins have been produced a full wine that still has freshness. Drink J. Portugal Ramos 2019 Loios Tinto (Alente- tamed and fully integrated into the ripe black fruits, from 2021. LGL Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. 88 jano). Always fruity and with fresh red blackberry flavors and dense texture. The wine, abv: 13.5% Price: $12 fruits and soft tannins, this is a vibrant wine. Its while ready, could well age further. Drink now or acidity and direct, forward fruitiness are delicious from 2021. Tuscan Wine Imports. —R.V. Monte da Ravasqueira 2017 Ravasqueira and ready to drink. Winebow. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $35 90 Touriga Franca (Alentejano). This grape, abv: 14% Price: $9 normally found in Douro blends, takes on a much Monte da Ravasqueira 2018 Vinha das Romãs richer hue in the southern warmth of the Alen- Parras Wines 2016 Pêra Doce Signature 92 (Alentejano). Named after a single vineyard, tejo. It has spice and full, ripe black fruits lifted 88 (Alentejano). This ripe wine still shows formerly a pomegranate grove, this wine is marked by generous acidity, with tannins to hold every- wood-aging flavors. That gives a strong spicy charac- by its perfumed tannins and dark-black fruits. Its thing together. The wine is just ready to drink. LGL ter and does unbalance the fruit. So the wine obvi- dense texture and young tannins indicate plenty of Imports LLC. —R.V. ously needs more time to bring out the­ ripe dam- potential. Rich and full, it will be ready from 2022. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 son plum flavors. Drink from 2021. All Star Wine LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $28 Casca Wines 2017 Monte Cascas Colheita abv: 14% Price: $14 89 (Alentejano). This perfumed wine, aged for Casa Relvas 2018 Herdade da Pimenta Colheita six months in wood, is ripe and now mature. Juicy Magnum Carlos Lucas Vinhos 2018 Maria 91 (Alentejano). A ripe, perfumed wine, this has red fruits go together with a smoky texture to give 87 Mora Cabernet Sauvignon (Alentejano). solid and rich layers of tannins and blackberry fruit. spice and generous tannins. The wine is ready to Black currant and ripe red berries shine in this At this stage, the wood aging is a strong element drink. Cellar Wines Distributing. Best Buy. —R.V. wine. It does have some dry tannins but they are and this needs to soften into the generous fruits and abv: 13.5% Price: $13 present as a support to the ripe, generous and juicy acidity. Drink the wine from 2022. Quintessential fruit. Drink now. Green Bus Imports. —R.V. Wines. —R.V. Monte da Ravasqueira 2019 Dona Vitoria abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $18 89 Grande Escolha (Alentejano). Although the wine is young, it has an attractive softness and Monte da Ravasqueira 2018 Seleção do Ano Casca Wines 2018 Bote Sailing Boat Reserva fruitiness that make it nearly ready to drink. Black- 87 (Alentejano). Properly rich and bold, this 91 Touriga Nacional-Alicante Bouschet (Alente- berry flavors and fresh acidity are ripely brought is a solid, dense wine. Its tannins are present but jano). One of a range of wines that celebrate Portu- together by the generous fruitiness. Light tannins are well integrated into the black fruitiness. There gual’s regions, this is a ripe, sunny example from the have been softened further by short wood aging. is a freshness as well to this wine, giving a lift and south. Warm tannins come from the year in wood to Drink the wine from 2021. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. fragrance at the end. Drink now. LGL Imports LLC. produce a rich wine, full of dark-black fruits. Give abv: 13.5% Price: $16 —R.V. the wine a few more months and drink from 2021. abv: 14% Price: $14 Cellar Wines Distributing. —R.V. Monte da Ravasqueira 2019 Guarda Rios abv: 14% Price: $20 89 Gold Edition (Alentejano). This is a ripe, Ciconia 2019 Alentejano. The wine is all juicy and fruity wine, made to be drunk young. It 86 about ripe, soft fruits. Berry flavors are Ciconia 2018 The Reserva Blend (Alentejano). has attractive, open black fruits and warm tannins, tempered by the wine’s generous texture, juicy acid- 91 With nine months of wood aging, this ripe, with a fine edge of pepper at the end. Drink now. ity and attractive fruitiness. The wine is ready to structured wine has a spicy edge to go with the LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. drink. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. generous black fruits and rich tannins. Smoky and abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 fruity, the wine does have some further potential, although it can be enjoyed now. Tri-Vin Imports. Casa Relvas 2019 Herdade de São Miguel J. Portugal Ramos 2019 Smart Dog Pingo’s Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 88 Colheita Seleccionada (Alentejano). Still 86 Edition (Alentejano). Smoothly textured abv: 14% Price: $20 young, but with vibrant red fruits and soft tan- and mellifluous, this is an easy wine to drink. Its nins, this is a spicy wine that has both richness and simple black fruits and touch of spice go well with Howard’s Folly 2016 Sonhador (Alentejano). accessibility. Black fruits, with hints of berry as well the acidity to give freshness and softness. Drink 91 From vineyards in the hilly northeast of the as wood flavors, are already coming together. Drink now. Winebow. Best Buy. —R.V. Alentejo, the wine is generous, smoothly textured the wine now. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 and with some further potential. Its ripe tannins abv: 14% Price: $15 and vibrant black fruits are immediately appealing, Magnum Carlos Lucas Vinhos 2018 Flor de offering richness and style. Drink now. Tuscan Wine Casa Santos Lima 2019 Fortissimo (Alente­ 86 Maio Mayflower (Alentejano). The mayflower­ Imports. —R.V. 88 jano). A ripe, bold and spicy wine, this has a is a red poppy that flowers in May in Portugal. The abv: 14% Price: $22 rich, opulent feel to it. That contrasts with the juicy wine is juicy, ripe, full of red fruits and contrast- black-currant fruits that cut through the wine’s ing acidity. It is perfectly ready to drink. Green Bus Howard’s Folly 2015 Sonhador (Alentejano).­ density. A blend of four grapes with wood aging, Imports. —R.V. 90 The Portalegre vineyards of this producer, abv: 13.5% Price: $13 in northeastern Alentejo have produced what is

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Monte da Ravasqueira 2019 Syrah (Alente- guese crystal . Drink now. Folio Fine Wine Fonseca 2018 Guimaraens Vintage Port. This 86 jano). A soft, lightly wood aged wine, this Partners. —R.V. 94 is a beautiful, luscious wine. It has all the is ripe, easygoing and full of young, vibrant fruit. abv: 20% Price: $8500 characteristics of a fine Vintage from this producer, Acidity, fruitiness and light tannins hang together with richness and opulence masking powerful tan- well. Drink now. LGL Imports LLC. —R.V. Taylor Fladgate 2018 Vintage Port. This is nins. Here, though, is a Port that will also develop abv: 13.5% Price: $16 98 an exceptional vintage, most unusually the relatively quickly. It is likely to be ready from 2027. third in a row from this producer. Intensely per- Kobrand. —R.V. Parras Wines 2017 Pêra Doce Reserva (Alente­ fumed, richly structured with dark-black fruits, abv: 20% Price: $58 86 jano). This soft wine still shows its wood concentrated tannins, it is set for seriously long- aging in the spiciness. That complements the red- term aging. The power of the wine, based around Kopke 1980 Colheita Tawny Port. Ripe, berry fruits and gentle mature tannins. The wine is the producer’s Quinta da Vargellas, is magnificent. 94 sweet and with a toffee and caramel char- ready to drink. All Star Wine Imports, LLC. —R.V. Drink this major Port from 2029. Kobrand. Cellar acter, this is a smooth, generous Port. Its intensity abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Selection. —R.V. comes from the concentration of fruit and the 40 abv: 20% Price: $120 years of wood aging that match it. This is a full, mellifluous wine, rich and ready to drink. Wine OTHER RED WINES Kopke 1940 Colheita Tawny Port. The seem- ­In-Motion. —R.V. 97 ingly inexhaustible supply of amazing abv: 20% Price: $100 Parras Wines 2019 Casa das Gaeiras (­Obidos). old tawnies from this producer must surely have 90 From vines around the historic walled city reached its apogee in this magnificent Port. Intense, Ramos-Pinto NV RP 30 Tawny 30 Years of Obidos, this black-fruit flavored wine with its both sweet from the original fruits and dry with the 94 Port. This Port is a triumph. Its age and its ripe tannins is still young but promising plenty, 80 years of wood aging, the wine still has raisin and concentration are on one side of an equation that with its ripeness and warm structure. It is not for dried prune flavors as well as the wonderful con- brings out the elegance of the style of this producer long-term aging, but letting the tannins soften for a centration. Like all old tawnies, this wine is ready and the balance of sweetness, dark-toffee flavors few months will give the wine its real shape. Drink for sipping. Wine In-Motion. —R.V. and acidity are on the other. The wine is very ready from 2021. All Star Wine Imports, LLC. Best Buy. abv: 20% Price: $820 to drink. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 20.5% Price: $115 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Kopke 1981 Colheita Tawny Port. The beauti- 95 ful old gold color of this wine sets the scene Kopke 2000 Colheita Tawny Port. This Casca Wines 2019 1808 Reserva (Beira for a Port that is rich, lusciously sweet but also shot 93 wood-aged tawny is still fresh, boasting 89 Interior).­ For a reserva this is surprisingly through with acidity. It is this balance that makes fruit as well as old-wood maturity. It has ripeness forward and ready. Its ripe black fruits have soft- for a gorgeous wine, ripe and fresh, rich and mature. shot through with intense acidity. With its richness ened the tannins, rounding the structure. A smoky Drink now. Wine In-Motion. —R.V. and balance between raisin and red fruits, the Port edge and bright acidity complete the profile of a fine abv: 20% Price: $90 is perfectly ready to drink. Wine In-Motion. —R.V. wine that is ready to drink. Suitable for vegans. abv: 20% Price: $50 O­rganic. Cellar Wines Distributing. —R.V. Kopke 1960 Colheita Tawny Port. Bottled abv: 12.5% Price: $20 95 after 60 years in wood, this Port shows Quinta do Crasto 2000 Colheita Tawny extraordinary intensity. It has kept plenty of rich- 93 Port. An especially dark and dense Colheita­ Venâncio Costa Lima 2016 Reserva (­Palmela). ness from the original fruitiness, but it is the old Tawny, this has great richness and a fine balance 88 Made from the red grape that dominates gold and wood flavors that bring out concentration between the fruit and the wood-aging flavors. this region south of Lisbon, the wine is ripe, soft and the bite of spirit that opens up the palate at Dates, prunes and blackberry flavors mingle with and mature. With its spice and juicy berry flavors the end. Drink this fine wine now. Wine In-Motion. nuttiness, spice and a fine end of acidity. Drink this well tamed, the wine is lightly peppery, fruity and —R.V. Port now. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —R.V. ready to drink. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $330 abv: 20% Price: $58 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Kopke 1940 White Colheita Tawny Port. Ramos-Pinto NV RP 20 Quinta do Bom Retiro Casa Santos Lima 2019 Al-Ria (Algarve). 95 Although this is a white Port from white 93 Tawny 20 Years Port. This quinta, in the 85 From the southernmost wine region of Por- grapes, those 80 years in wood have transformed heart of the Douro Valley vineyards, has produced tugal, this blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz the color into light gold. Beautifully aromatic, this is an elegant Port, ripe and finely balanced. Its opu- and Syrah, benefits from the sun to give a ripe, red a sipping wine, a meditation wine, with its extreme lent texture gives it a smooth feel, lifted by the fruit character ready for the barbecue. Drink the concentration, almost shocking acidity along with dried fruit, spice and freshened by acidity. This is wine now. Lionstone International. —R.V. rich sweetness. It’s a rare experience, happily ready a delicious wine to drink now. Maisons Marques & abv: 14.5% Price: $15 to drink now. Wine In-Motion. —R.V. Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $950 abv: 20.5% Price: $73

PORT Quinta do Vallado 2018 Vintage Port. For full Kopke 2001 Colheita Tawny Port. As one of 95 review see page 5. 92 a series of great, aged tawnies released by Quinta do Crasto NV Honore Very Old Tawny abv: 19.5% Price: $110 Kopke, this Colheita is still quite young. It has just 98 Port. This is an extraordinary wine. It was hints of the freshness of red fruits that are now created from a blend of very old tawnies (the oldest Croft 2018 Quinta da Roeda Vintage Port. endowed with intense acidity, old-wood flavors and estimated to date from 1873). The resulting wine, 94 Croft’s showpiece estate at Pinhão always great concentration. Dried fruits show through the amazingly perfumed and with a texture like liq- forms the base of the producer’s Vintage Ports. bite of spirit and the mellow aftertaste. Drink now. uid lavender honey is stunningly full of life. What Here it shines on its own in a wonderful perfumed, Wine In-Motion. —R.V. shows most strongly are the perfumes, the intensely richly textured wine. In a dry style, the wine goes abv: 20% Price: $35 floral character and the poise between acidity, wood for richness and nutty, dried raisin flavors. With its aging and freshness. It has been bottled in Portu- structure, it will certainly age. Drink from 2028. Ramos-Pinto 2015 Late Bottled Vintage Port. Kobrand. —R.V. 91 This is a beautifully perfumed wine. With abv: 20% Price: $50 its violet aromas and rich floral flavors, it has both

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BUYINGGUIDE structure and great balance. Black fruits, sultanas wood-aged flavors, deserves to be better known. tobacco. A backbone of noble tannins and vibrant and a poise between richness and great fruits, the Haus Alpenz. —R.V. acidity keeps it impeccably balanced. 2025–2053. Port is still young and will benefit from a few more abv: 19% Price: $23/500 ml Oliver McCrum Wines. Cellar Selection. —K.O. months. Drink from 2021. Maisons Marques & abv: 14.5% Price: $165 Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 19.5% Price: $24 MADEIRA Cantina Bartolo Mascarello 2016 Barolo. 99 Focused and fragrant, this striking red Borges 2018 Vintage Port. This Port is from Blandy’s 1920 Medium Rich Bual (Madeira). offers enticing perfumes recalling violet, rose, red 90 a vintage that is proving to be of great qual- 96 Dark gold-green, this 100-year-old wine is berry and menthol. Showing extreme elegance, ity. The wine has layers of black fruits and dried extraordinary in its age and its flavors. The concen- energy and precision, the palate doles out succulent berries. It is in a sweet style of Vintage, with its tration is immense, sweetness vying with the most cherry, raspberry, orange zest and star anise while a jammy black-plum and prune flavors. It is possible intense acidity in a welter of flavors. Such is its sprinkling of white pepper graces the lingering fin- to drink this wine soon, certainly from 2022, but it focus that it is for sipping rather than drinking—a ish. Taut, refined tannins and bright acidity provide will also age well. JMV USA. —R.V. wine for amazed meditation. Drink now. Premium wonderful balance. Drink 2026–2046. Rare Wine abv: 19.5% Price: $52 Port Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Company. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 20% Price: $2200 abv: 14% Price: $250 Poças 2018 Vintage Port. A special edition 90 bottling to celebrate the 100th anniversary Cossart Gordon 1975 Terrantez (Madeira). Giuseppe Rinaldi 2016 Brunate (Barolo). of the producer, the wine is packed with sweet dried 96 This rarest grape variety on Madeira has an 99 Radiant and already showing impressive fruit, generous tannins and great opulence. The awesome ability to age, with 200-year-old examples depth, this arresting red opens with perfumed berry,­ wine’s structure will allow it to age well, but it has still full of fruit. That makes this 45-year-old wine rose petal, violet, crushed mint and new leather enough richness to be ready soon. Drink from 2022 almost youthful. It is off dry, with shocking inten- aromas. Delicious and austere, it boasts compel- or age for many years. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. sity and concentration. Touches of sweeter toffee ling structure, delivering succulent red cherry, star abv: 19.5% Price: $100 come through the acidity and old-wood flavors. This anise, baking spice and orange-zest flavors framed is an extraordinary experience. Now it has been bot- in firm, refined tannins. Bright acidity provides Quinta do Crasto 2015 LBV Late Bottled tled, the wine will not age further. So savor now. energy and impeccable balance. Drink 2026–2046. 90 Vintage Port. Aged in wood for years before Vineyard Brands. —R.V. Vinifera Imports. Cellar Selection. —K.O. bottling, this fine, mature wine boasts rich tannins abv: 21% Price: $388 abv: 14% Price: $249 that have opened into the ripe prune and date fla- vors. The wine has a sweet profile and is generous Blandy’s 1976 Verdelho (Madeira). The old Mascarello Giuseppe e Figlio 2015 Monpri­ and softly textured at the end. Drink now. Folio Fine 95 gold color presages an intense wine. Acidity 99 vato (Barolo). You can lose yourself just in Wine Partners. —R.V. balances the smokiness and the candied orange-zest the aromas of this drop-dead gorgeous wine, thanks abv: 20% Price: $26 flavors. Medium dry in concept, it is a concentrated to a lovely bouquet that recalls rose, violet, vineyard wine that brings the essence of its flavors together. dust, licorice and menthol. Boasting a winning com- Ramos-Pinto NV RP 10 Quinta da Ervamoira Drink this wine now. Tasted 375ml. Premium Port bination of structure and finesse, the precise, full- 90 Tawny 10 Years Port. This quinta, in the Wines, Inc. —R.V. bodied palate features juicy red cherry, raspberry, upper reaches of the Douro Valley is spectacularly abv: 21% Price: $375 tobacco and white pepper alongside noble, envel- situated near the prehistoric rock paintings of Foz oping tannins. It’s impeccably balanced, with fresh Coa. The Port, still poised between fruit and oak Cossart Gordon 2008 Colheita Single Har- acidity. Drink 2025–2035. Polaner ­Selections. aging shows prunes, black plums and fine acidity, 92 vest Verdelho (­Madeira). For full review see Cellar­ Selection. —K.O. with a bite of spirit. It is easily ready to drink. Mai- page 12. abv: 14.5% Price: $176 sons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 19% Price: $48/500 ml abv: 20% Price: $40 Roagna 2015 Pira Vechie Viti (Barolo). Miles 1998 Tinta Negra Mole (Madeira). 99 ­Another drop-dead gorgeous wine from Quinta do Crasto NV Finest Reserve Port. Pro- 90 Produced from the chameleon grape of this dynamic estate, this elegantly structured wine 87 duced from old vines, of which this quinta­ ­Madeira that has the ability to produce many styles opens with tantalizing aromas of camphor, fra- has many, the wine is soft, raisiny and a great winter of wine, this matured, wood-aged wine has sweet- grant purple flower, ripe berry, sunbaked earth and warmer. Sweet raisins give the wine an open, easy ness as well as the acid intensity typical of aged ­tobacco. Made with fruit from old vines, the young- character that is immediately attractive. Drink now. Madeira. It is a beautifully textured wine that is est dating back to 1937, the compelling palate com- Folio Fine Wine Partners. —R.V. ready to drink. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. bines structure and grace, delivering pristine fruit abv: 20% Price: $17 abv: 21% Price: $154 sensations of strawberry compote and red cherry while licorice, baking spice and truffle add depth. Refined tannins and fresh acidity keep it balanced CARCAVELOS NORTHERN ITALY and vibrant. Drink 2023–2035. Polaner Selections. Cellar Selection. —K.O. Villa Oeiras NV Superior (Carcavelos). For RED WINES abv: 14% Price: $225 94 full review see page 9. Editors’ Choice. abv: 18.5% Price: $31/500 ml BAROLO Giuseppe Rinaldi 2016 Tre Tine (Barolo). 98 Gorgeous, fragrant and structured, this has Villa Oeiras NV Carcavelos. This is a rare forti- Cavallotto 2013 Bricco Boschis Vigna San enticing scents of violet, camphor, orange zest and 91 fied wine, aged for seven years in wood, made 100 Giuseppe Riserva (Barolo). A dazzling red berry. The focused palate boasts great energy, in protected Carcavelos vineyards two miles from showing that combines Old School structure with doling out strawberry compote, crushed raspberry, the ocean west of Lisbon. With a golden color and finesse, this stunning red offers sublime aromas of cinnamon and white pepper alongside taut, elegant plenty of wood and spice flavors, the wine with its rose, camphor, dark-skinned berry and new leather. tannins and vibrant acidity. Just fantastic. Drink richness and link between sweet fruits and drier Full bodied and delicious, the compelling palate 2024–2041. Vinifera Imports. Cellar Selection. delivers fruit purity and complexity, featuring ripe —K.O. Marasca cherry, raspberry compote, star anise and abv: 14% Price: $249

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Oddero 2013 Vignarionda (Barolo). Aromas nins. It’s well balanced, with bright acidity. Drink Roccheviberti 2016 Bricco Boschis (Barolo). 98 of wild berry, rose and star anise mingle 2025–2033. Polaner Selections. —K.O. 89 Aromas of French oak, coconut and orange with scents of pine forest on this compelling, full- abv: 14.5% Price: $112 rind follow over to the palate along with sour cherry, bodied red. Hailing from one of Barolo’s most illus- camphor and a hint of aniseed. It closes on an trious crus, it’s is a classic in the making, delivering Anselma Giacomo 2013 Collaretto Riserva espresso note while grainy tannins clench the finish. juicy red cherry, baking spice and menthol alongside 94 (Barolo). Earthy aromas of underbrush and The Piedmont Guy. —K.O. noble tannins. It’s precise, structured and elegant, leather align with dark spice and blue flower on this abv: 14.5% Price: $80 with a savory, lingering finish. Drink 2023–2043. full-bodied red. Velvety and savory, the enveloping Polaner Selections. Cellar Selection. —K.O. palate is loaded with personality, delivering ripe Tenuta Carretta 2014 Riserva (Barolo). This abv: 14.5% Price: $170 black cherry, licorice, tobacco and game alongside a 87 opens with aromas of forest floor, coco- backbone of noble tannins. It’s a quintessential, old nut and a whiff of eucalyptus. Mirroring the nose, Anselma Giacomo 2012 Vignarionda Riserva school Barolo and that’s a good thing. Drink through the palate suggests French oak, espresso and but- 96 (Barolo). From one of the most legendary 2033. Weygandt-Metzler. Cellar Selection. —K.O. terscotch alongside the barest hint of orange rind. vineyard sites in all of Barolo, this soulful, full- abv: 14.5% Price: $100 Assertive, grainy tannins leave a clenching, abrupt bodied red opens with aromas of leather, truffle, finish. Specialty Cellars. —K.O. tobacco, baked plum and a hint of game. Compel- Bel Colle 2016 Monvigliero (Barolo). For full abv: 14% Price: $160 ling, velvety and delicious, the palate features fleshy 94 review see page 6. Cellar Selection. Morello cherry, crushed raspberry, licorice and bak- abv: 14.5% Price: $75 Tenuta Carretta 2013 Cannubi (Barolo). Aro- ing spice accompanied by firm, polished tannins 87 mas of damp underbrush, oak, menthol and a that lend finesse. It’s already showing beautifully Roagna 2015 del Comune di Barolo (Barolo). whiff of incense form the subtle nose. The lean pal- but will age wonderfully for years to come. Drink 94 Violet, menthol, new leather and wild berry ate shows oak-driven sensations of coconut, exotic through 2032. Weygandt-Metzler. Cellar Selection. aromas waft out of the glass. The elegant palate spice and toasted nut alongside a note of powdered —K.O. offers juicy Marasca cherry, baking spice and a hint sage but it lacks fruit richness. Astringent tannins abv: 14.5% Price: $160 of rusty nail alongside taut, polished tannins. Drink leave a bracing, mouthdrying close. Specialty Cel- 2022–2027. Polaner Selections. —K.O. lars. —K.O. Mascarello Giuseppe e Figlio 2015 Perno abv: 14% Price: $112 abv: 14% Price: $75 96 ­Vigna Santo Stefano (Barolo). Enticing aromas of red berry, baking spice, crushed rose Anselma Giacomo 2015 Barolo. Classic and chopped mint waft out of the glass. It’s all 93 ­ aromas of dark-skinned berry, new BARBARESCO about intensity, complexity and elegance, deliver- leather, underbrush, violet and camphor mingle ing mature Marasca cherry, orange zest, licorice and together in the glass. The full-bodied, chewy palate Roagna 2015 Montefico Vecchie Viti (Barbar­ tobacco before closing on a note of smoky flint. Taut doles out ripe black cherry, crushed raspberry, bak- 99 esco). Showing more strength and intensity but refined tannins provide support while fresh ing spice and tobacco framed in firm, fine-grained than you normally find in Barbaresco, this stun- acidity lends perfect balance. Drink 2023–2030. tannins. It closes on an almond note. Drink 2022– ning red opens with heady scents of wild berry, new Polaner Selections. —K.O. 2030. Weygandt-Metzler. —K.O. ­leather, underbrush and menthol. The compelling abv: 14% Price: $112 abv: 14.5% Price: $71 palate features mature black raspberry, juicy cherry and licorice before finishing on a note of tobacco. Roagna 2015 Pira (Barolo). Leather, forest Varej 2016 Barolo. Earthy and downright It’s still youthfully nervous and austere so give it 96 floor, rose and camphor aromas take shape 93 delicious, this has aromas of forest floor, time to fully develop. Drink 2027–2040. Polaner on this fragrant red along with a whisper of tobacco. violet, new leather, game and tobacco. The full-bod- Selections. Cellar Selection. —K.O. Polished, linear and savory, the elegantly structured ied, enveloping palate doles out fleshy black cherry, abv: 14% Price: $225 palate features juicy cranberry, orange zest, licorice mature plum, licorice and cinnamon alongside fine- and a hint of baking spice. Taut, refined tannins grained, velvety tannins. Give it time to fully unwind Roagna 2015 Pajè Vecchie Viti (Barbaresco). provide support while fresh acidity keeps it nicely and develop. Drink 2024–2031. —K.O. 99 Aromas of camphor, new leather, sun- balanced. Drink 2022–2030. Polaner Selections. abv: 14% Price: $NA baked soil and a whiff of violet shape the nose on —K.O. this enthralling wine. Full bodied and boasting a abv: 14% Price: $112 Bel Colle 2016 Simposio (Barolo). For full concentrated depth of delicious flavors, the struc- 92 review see page 12. tured linear palate delivers mature Morello cherry, Anselma Giacomo 2012 Felice Asnelma 100 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 blood orange, star anise and tobacco set against a 95 Anni Riserva (Barolo). Aromas of under- backbone of firm but refined tannins. Fresh acidity brush, leather, camphor and sunbaked soil form the Bel Colle 2009 10 Anni Riserva (Barolo). For provides balance. Drink 2027–2040. Polaner Selec- nose. Structured and enveloping, the full-bodied 92 full review see page 12. tions. Cellar Selection. —K.O. palate presents dried cherry, blood orange, licorice abv: 14% Price: $75 abv: 14% Price: $225 and tobacco. It’s concentrated with a velvety tex- ture, thanks to firm, fine-grained tannins. Drink Fontanafredda 2016 del Comune di Ser- Roagna 2015 Asili Vecchie Viti (Barbaresco). 2024–2032. Weygandt-Metzler. Cellar Selection. 92 ralunga d’Alba (Barolo). Aromas of black- 98 From one of the greatest vineyard sites in —K.O. skinned berry and baking spice follow through to Barbaresco, this captivating wine boasts enticing abv: 15% Price: $110 the focused, savory palate along with licorice and perfumes of fragrant purple flower, pressed rose, orange zest. It’s linear and structured, with taut, new leather, forest floor and dark spice. The palate Mascarello Giuseppe e Figlio 2015 Villero fine-grained tannins. Drink 2024–2031. Taub Fam- is both elegant and earthy, doling out juicy Marasca 95 (Barolo). This compelling wine opens with ily Selections. —K.O. cherry, crushed raspberry, truffle and star anise enticing aromas of camphor, toasted hazelnut, abv: 14% Price: $54 before finishing on the barest hint of game. Taut, white pepper and pipe tobacco. Demonstrating the refined tannins and bright acidity keep it focused firm’s hallmark of power and finesse, the struc- Luca Bosio 2016 Barolo. For full review see and balanced. Drink 2025–2035. Polaner Selec- tured, focused palate shows Morello cherry, orange 90 page 21. tions. Cellar Selection. —K.O. slice and licorice framed in firm, fine-grained tan- abv: 14% Price: $45 abv: 14% Price: $225

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Roagna 2012 Crichet Pajè (Barbaresco). mocha and vanilla alongside dusty tannins. You’ll Ca’ de Lion Ghione 2017 Le Muccie (Barbera 98 Camphor, truffle, wild berry and new also detect the warmth of evident alcohol on the 87 d’Asti Superiore). Earthy aromas of scorched leather are just some of the aromas you’ll encounter close. Drink through 2022. R.S. Lipman Co. —K.O. earth, dark-skinned berry and leather lead the nose. on this riveting red. The enveloping, delicious pal- abv: 15% Price: $40 The straightforward, accessible palate offers black- ate shows both power and finesse, featuring dried berry jam, vanilla and star anise alongside smooth cherry, pomegranate, star anise and tobacco framed Il Falchetto 2015 Bricco Rocche Riserva tannins. Drink soon. One Vine Wines. —K.O. in noble tannins. Surprisingly bright acidity for the 88 (Nizza). Espresso, ripe black-plum and abv: 14% Price: $NA warm vintage lends balance and even more inten- scorched earth aromas form the subtle nose on sity. Drink 2022–2032. Polaner Selections. Cellar this solid red. The dense, monolithic palate offers Il Botolo 2016 Barbera d’Asti Superiore. This Selection. —K.O. toasted oak, prune and roasted coffee bean along- 87 opens with aromas of mocha, dried plum abv: 14% Price: $950 side ripe tannins and the heat of evident, almost and clove. The warm, straightforward palate offers scorching alcohol. Drink through 2022. Montcalm raisin, cedar and vanilla alongside round tannins. Roagna 2015 Pajè (Barbaresco). Balsamic Wine Importers. —K.O. Vos Vinum Importing. —K.O. 96 notes of camphor meld with ripe dark- abv: 16% Price: $85 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 skinned cherry, leather and dark spice. Delicious and loaded with personality, the enveloping pal- Neirano 2018 Le Croci (Barbera d’Asti Supe- ate doles out juicy black cherry, raspberry jam BARBERA D’ASTI SUPERIORE 87 riore). Subdued aromas evoking cedar, bak- and star anise alongside earthy hints of truffle and ing spice and mocha slowly emerge from the glass. game. Tightly knit, fine-grained tannins provide the Cascina Castlet 2016 Litina (Barbera d’Asti The straightforward, approachable palate suggests framework. Drink after 2025. Polaner Selections. 90 Superiore).­ Aromas of violet, baking spice baked plum, clove and vanilla alongside rounded —K.O. and red-skinned berry lift out of the glass. The juicy tannins. Drink soon. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. abv: 14% Price: $112 palate offers red cherry, raspberry jam and tobacco —K.O. alongside velvety tannins. Drink through 2024. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Tutto Vino. —K.O. NIZZA abv: 15% Price: $22 BARBERA D’ASTI Pico Maccario 2017 Tre Roveri (Nizza). Aro- Cascina Castlet 2016 Passum (Barbera 90 mas of ripe black-skinned berry, forest floor 89 d’Asti Superiore). This opens with aromas Braida di Giacomo Bologna 2017 Bricco and underbrush form the earthy, alluring nose. The of black-skinned berry, cedar and tobacco. On the 93 dell’Uccellone (Barbera d’Asti). Enticing savory, approachable palate offers ripe black plum, dense palate, pliant tannins accompany blackberry aromas of mature black-skinned berry, violet, new tobacco and black pepper alongside polished tan- jam, mocha and clove notes alongside the warmth leather and graphite emerge from the glass. The nins. Enjoy through 2024. LLS–Winebow. —K.O. of evident alcohol. Drink through 2024. Tutto Vino. powerful, concentrated palate offers blackberry abv: 14.5% Price: $30 —K.O. jam, ripe black cherry and black pepper alongside abv: 15.5% Price: $37 fine-grained, enveloping tannins. The rich fruit fla- Tre Secoli 2016 Riserva (Nizza). Aromas of vors counterbalance the warmth of alcohol. Enjoy 90 black plum, tilled soil and baking spice lead Pico Maccario 2017 Epico (Barbera d’Asti through 2026. Soilair Selection. —K.O. the way. The savory, rich palate offers blackberry 89 Superiore). Aromas of black-skinned berry, abv: 16% Price: $75 jam, tobacco and licorice alongside velvety tannins. underbrush and eucalyptus emerge from the glass. Drink through 2025. Wine 4 All. —K.O. The concentrated palate shows black currant, clove Braida di Giacomo Bologna 2017 Bricco della abv: 15% Price: $30 and mocha alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink 92 Bigotta (Barbera d’Asti). Aromas of ripe through 2023. LLS–Winebow. —K.O. black-skinned berry, scorched earth and baking Vite Colte 2016 La Luna e i Falò (Nizza). abv: 15% Price: $50 spice emerge from the glass. The full-bodied, con- 90 Enticing aromas of black cherry, eucalyptus centrated palate offers Marasca cherry, ripe black and tobacco lead the way. The savory, full-bodied Vite Colte 2017 La Luna e i Falò (Barbera plum, black pepper and star anise. Drink through palate delivers crushed blackberry, clove and lico- 89 d’Asti Superiore). Aromas of black-skinned 2025. Soilair Selection. —K.O. rice alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink through berry, cedar and cooking spice emerge from the abv: 16% Price: $75 2026. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O. glass. The concentrated palate offers blackberry abv: 15% Price: $35 jam, clove and licorice alongside firm tannins. Enjoy Braida di Giacomo Bologna 2016 Ai Suma through 2023. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O. 92 (Barbera d’Asti). This opens with mature Garesio 2017 Nizza. Aromas of black- abv: 14.5% Price: $NA black plum, cooking spice, toasted oak and under- 89 skinned berry, scorched earth and mocha brush aromas. The bold, full-bodied palate offers lead the nose. The concentrated palate offers black- CarlindePaolo 2016 Bricco della Cappel- raspberry jam, cherry marinated in spirits, ­vanilla berry jam, vanilla and tobacco alongside polished 88 letta (Barbera d’Asti Superiore). This opens and tobacco alongside velvety tannins. Drink tannins. Enjoy through 2024. Vias Imports. —K.O. with aromas of black plum, cedar and espresso. through 2025. Soilair Selection. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 The dense palate offers black-currant jam, coconut abv: 16.5% Price: $102 and black pepper alongside dusty tannins. Alluvial Vinchio-Vaglio Serra 2015 Laudana (Nizza). Wine. —K.O. Braida di Giacomo Bologna 2017 Monte Bruna 89 Aromas of black plum, underbrush and abv: 14.5% Price: $30 91 (Barbera d’Asti). Aromas of violet, black mocha form the nose. The juicy, approachable pal- cherry and underbrush lead the way. The big, savory ate offers Marasca cherry, clove and white pepper Tenuta San Mauro 2016 Barbera d’Asti palate offers blackberry jam, tobacco and licorice alongside smooth tannins. Drink through 2023. 88 Superiore. Aromas of cedar, mocha and alongside tightly knit, polished tannins. Drink Ionia Atlantic Imports, LLC. —K.O. black plum lead the nose. The dense palate offers through 2024. Soilair Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $29 blackberry jam, toasted oak and licorice alongside abv: 15.5% Price: $29 chewy tannins. Drink through 2023. Good Company Il Botolo 2016 Nizza. The shy nose eventu- Wines. —K.O. Damilano 2018 Barbera d’Asti. Aromas of 88 ally reveals ripe black plum, smoke and abv: 15% Price: $35 90 red-skinned berry, cooking spice and green scorched earth. The dense palate offers prune, peppercorn lead the way. The silky palate offers

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 fleshy black cherry, almond and licorice alongside anise alongside smooth tannins and bright acidity. smooth tannins. Drink soon. Weygandt-Metzler. fresh acidity and pliant tannins. Enjoy through LLS–Winebow. —K.O. —K.O. 2023. LLS–Winebow. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 15% Price: $23 Tre Secoli 2018 Larame (Barbera d’Asti). Giordano 2018 Collection (Barbera d’Asti). Enrico Serafino 2017 Cruva (Barbera d’Asti). 88 Made with organically grown Barbera 86 This simple red opens with aromas suggest- 89 Aromas of black cherry, cedar and baking grapes, this features aromas of red-skinned berry, ing red-skinned berry and baking spice. The easy- spice are front and center. The savory, medium- scorched earth and baking spice. The straightfor- drinking palate offers raspberry and a hint of clove bodied palate offers crushed blackberry, tobacco ward palate offers red cherry, star anise and white alongside pliant tannins. Drink soon. Votto Vines and a hint of orange zest alongside lithe tannins. pepper alongside smooth tannins. Drink through Importing. —K.O. Drink through 2024. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. 2023. Wine 4 All. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 abv: 14% Price: $25 Il Falchetto 2017 Bricco Paradiso (Barbera Vinchio-Vaglio Serra 2018 Sorì dei Mori 86 d’Asti). Toasted oak, vanilla and scorched Marenco 2018 Bassina (Barbera d’Asti). 88 (Barbera­ d’Asti). Aromas of dark-skinned earth lead the way while the dense, syrupy palate 89 Violet, red-plum and baking-spice aromas berry, baking spice and clove emerge from the glass. evokes prune, mocha and coconut alongside asser- emerge from the glass. The juicy palate offers rasp- The juicy palate offers crushed blackberry, star tive tannins. The scorching heat of evident alcohol berry jam, black cherry and star anise alongside anise and a hint of white pepper alongside easygoing dominates the finish. Montcalm Wine Importers. pliant tannins. Drink through 2024. Vias Imports. tannins and fresh acidity. Ionia Atlantic Imports, —K.O. —K.O. LLC. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 16% Price: $35 abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $13

Abbazia 2018 Barbera d’Asti. This opens Vinchio-Vaglio Serra 2017 I Tre Vescovi (Bar- DOLCETTO D’ALBA 88 with dark-skinned berry and cooking-spice 88 bera d’Asti). This opens with aromas of aromas. The easy-drinking palate offers ripe black- black-skinned berry and whiffs of dark spice. The Elvio Cogno 2018 Mandorlo (Dolcetto d’Alba). berry, clove and a hint of white pepper alongside straightforward palate offers black plum, almond 91 Aromas of black-skinned berry, cooking spice round tannins. Drink through 2023. Straitalian. and ground clove alongside supple tannins. Drink and grilled herb emerge from the glass. The envel- —K.O. through 2023. Ionia Atlantic Imports, LLC. —K.O. oping palate doles out juicy blueberry, star anise, abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 almond and black pepper alongside velvety tannins and bright acidity. Enjoy through 2025. Wilson Cascina Castlet 2018 Barbera d’Asti. Aromas Viotti 2016 Ca’ Nova (Barbera d’Asti). Subtle Daniels Ltd. —K.O. 88 of violet, underbrush and clove lead the 88 red-skinned berry and baking-spice aromas abv: 13% Price: $20 nose. The savory, easygoing palate offers red cherry, emerge from the glass. The straightforward palate cinnamon and white pepper alongside pliant tan- offers raspberry, clove and white pepper alongside Castello di Neive 2016 Vigna Basarin (Dol- nins. Drink soon. Tutto Vino. —K.O. smooth tannins. Drink soon. Enoclassica Selection. 90 cetto d’Alba). For full review see page 19. abv: 14% Price: $19 —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 Castello del Poggio 2018 Barbera d’Asti. G D Vajra 2018 Coste & Fossati (Dolcetto 88 ­Violet, black-skinned berry and cedar aro- Bricco dei Guazzi 2017 Barbera d’Asti. This 89 d’Alba). Fragrant blue-flower, dark-skinned mas come together in the glass. The savory pal- 87 has aromas of black-skinned fruit, scorched berry and nutmeg aromas lift out of the glass. The ate doles out blackberry, clove and ground pepper soil and baking spice. The ripe, brawny palate offers fresh, savory palate offers black currant, clove and alongside firm acidity and pliant tannins. 1821 Fine prune and licorice alongside rounded tannins before raw almond alongside polished tannins. Enjoy soon. Wines & Spirits. —K.O. closing on the heat of evident alcohol. Montcalm Winebow. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $16 Wine ­Importers. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 abv: 15% Price: $25 Crotin 2018 La Martina (Barbera d’Asti). Tenuta Rocca 2018 Rocca (Dolcetto d’Alba). 88 Made with organically farmed grapes, this Ca’ de Lion Ghione 2018 L’Altera (Barbera 89 Made with organically farmed grapes, this offers red-skinned berry, underbrush and cake-spice 87 d’Asti). Subdued aromas of underbrush, bak- medium-bodied red opens with aromas of red- aromas. The easy-drinking palate features raspberry ing spice and a whiff of dark-skinned fruit emerge skinned berry, violet and graphite. The juicy palate jam, star anise and cinnamon alongside smooth tan- from the glass. The simple palate offers black plum offers succulent red cherry, star anise and white pep- nins. Drink soon. Vance Vine Selection. —K.O. and clove alongside rounded tannins. Drink soon. per alongside polished tannins. Enjoy soon. Votto abv: 14.5% Price: $24 One Vine Wines. —K.O. Vines Importing. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $28 Dogliotti 1870 2018 Barbera d’Asti. This has 88 aromas suggesting red plum, underbrush Il Botolo 2018 Barbera d’Asti. This opens Voerzio Martini 2018 Rocchettevino (Dol- and baking spice. The juicy, accessible palate offers 87 with subdued aromas of red-skinned fruit 89 cetto d’Alba). Black-skinned berry, licorice raspberry jam, white pepper and star anise along- and cooking spice. The simple palate offers red and cooking-spice aromas form the nose on this side smooth tannins. Drink soon. R.S. Lipman Co. cherry, star anise and vanilla alongside rounded approachable red. The velvety palate offers black- —K.O. tannins. Drink soon. R.S. Lipman Co. —K.O. berry, star anise and white pepper alongside smooth abv: 14.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $13 tannins. Drink soon. HB Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $23 Pico Maccario 2018 Lavignone (Barbera Tenuta Olim Bauda 2018 Barbera d’Asti. This 88 d’Asti). Aromas of violet, underbrush and 87 opens with aromas of vanilla, violet and Enrico Serafino 2019 Dosso (Dolcetto cooking spice emerge from the glass. The savory baking spice. The no-frills, accessible palate offers 88 d’Alba). Aromas of black-skinned berry, palate offers black cherry, raspberry jam and star blackberry jam, almond and star anise alongside licorice and baking spice shape the nose. The light- bodied palate offers black cherry, star anise and a

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BUYINGGUIDE touch of almond alongside pliant tannins. Enjoy shape the nose along with a whiff of blue flower. soon. Dalla Terra ­Winery Direct. —K.O. The firmly structured, medium-bodied palate offers GHEMME abv: 12.5% Price: $18 dried black cherry, star anise, clove and tobacco framed in tight, close-grained tannins. Drink 2023– Ioppa 2015 Balsina (Ghemme). Forest-floor, Cantina Massara Burlotto 2019 Dolcetto 2030. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. 92 alpine-herb, blue-flower and new leather 87 d’Alba. This has subdued aromas evoking abv: 13.5% Price: $60 aromas waft out of the glass. Firm and medium bod- red-skinned fruit and baking spice. The straight- ied, the palate has a racy, linear elegance, featuring forward palate offers red plum and clove alongside Travaglini 2014 Tre Vigne (Gattinara). dried cherry, tobacco and licorice alongside tightly rounded tannins. Drink soon. Selezioni Inc. —K.O. 93 Underbrush, tilled earth, blue flower and wound fine-grained tannins. Drink 2025–2035. abv: 13% Price: $18 wild herb aromas meld together on this racy red. Grand Cru Selections. —K.O. The savory, medium-bodied palate features juicy abv: 13.5% Price: $38 Giorgio Carnevale 2018 Dolcetto di Diano Marasca cherry, cranberry, licorice and flinty min- 88 d’Alba. Violet, tilled soil and cooking-spice eral set against a backbone of firm acidity and taut, Ca’ Nova 2011 Ghemme. Red-berry, rose, aromas lead the nose. The juicy palate offers black refined tannins. Drink through 2026. Taub Family 90 ­tobacco and tilled soil aromas rise out of the cherry, clove and bitter almond alongside smooth Selections. —K.O. glass on this 100% Nebbiolo from Alto ­. tannins. Enjoy soon. PSP Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 It’s still youthfully austere, offering dried Marasca abv: 13% Price: $17 cherry, orange zest and licorice alongside a backbone Travaglini 2016 Gattinara. Enticing scents of of assertive, fine-grained tannins. Give the tannins Giovanni Abrigo 2018 Garabei (Dolcetto di 92 rose, blue flower and perfumed berry mingle a few more years to unclench then drink to capture 88 Diano d’Alba). This opens with aromas of with whiffs of alpine herb and camphor on this fra- the remaining fruit. Tradizione Imports. —K.O. dark-skinned berry, tilled soil and a whiff of char- grant red. Medium bodied and loaded with finesse abv: 14% Price: $39 coal smoke. The savory palate offers blackberry, and energy, the elegant palate doles out ripe black licorice and black pepper alongside smooth tannins. cherry, licorice and tobacco before closing a mineral Ioppa 2015 Ghemme. Aromas of pipe Enjoy soon. Elevation Wine Partners. —K.O. note suggesting iron. Polished tannins and bright 90 tobacco, blue flower and a whiff of baked abv: 14% Price: $26 acidity provide lithe support. Drink through 2026. plum form the nose. On the palate, notes of licorice Taub Family Selections. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. and clove accent a core of dried black cherry. Firm, Giordano 2018 Sorì Costa Fiore (Dolcetto di abv: 13.5% Price: $30 fine-grained tannins provide plenty of support. 87 Diano d’Alba). Subtle aromas suggesting Drink 2023–2030. Grand Cru Selections. —K.O. blue flower and baking spice lead the nose. The Travaglini 2017 Gattinara. Aromas of dark- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 easygoing palate offers cranberry and white pep- 90 skinned berry, violet and dark spice mingle per alongside lithe tannins. Drink soon. Votto Vines with balsamic notes of camphor. Elegantly struc- Ioppa 2015 Santa Fè (Ghemme). Made with Importing. —K.O. tured, the linear palate reveals mature Morello 90 Nebbiolo and Vespolina, this has aromas abv: 13% Price: $20 cherry, licorice and a hint of espresso framed in of camphor, dried botanical herb, underbrush and firm, fine-grained tannins. Give it a few more years a whiff of violet. It’s austere and medium bodied, Salvano 2017 Fosco (Dolcetto d’Alba). This to fully unwind. Drink 2022–2027. Taub Family offering flavors of dried cherry, white pepper and 87 opens with subdued aromas evoking baking­ ­Selections. —K.O. star anise alongside assertive, close-grained tannins spice and ripe black-skinned fruit. The straight- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 that grip the close. Drink 2025–2035. Grand Cru forward palate offers dried black cherry, clove and Selections. —K.O. ­hazelnut alongside relaxed tannins. Drink soon. abv: 13.5% Price: $38 Siema LLC. —K.O. BOCA abv: 14% Price: $30 Carlone Davide 2016 Adele (Boca). Forest COSTE DELLA SESIA 95 floor, camphor, blue flower and new ­leather GATTINARA are just some of the aromas that you’ll find on Cascina Preziosa 2016 Castleng Nebbiolo this structured, vibrant red. Firm and austere, the 91 (Coste della Sesia). Forest-floor and wild- Travaglini 2015 Tre Vigne (Gattinara). Fra- ­vibrant, focused palate has youthful intensity, fea- berry aromas mingle with whiffs of rose and men- 95 grant and showing great class and pedigree, turing mature Marasca cherry, blood orange, white thol. Smooth and concentrated, the medium-bodied this opens with alluring aromas of wild berry, forest pepper and licorice set against assertive, noble tan- palate offers fleshy Marasca cherry, raspberry, lico- floor, new leather and dark spice. On the smooth, nins. Bright acidity keeps it balanced and precise, rice and a hint of white pepper alongside taut, fine- delicious palate, taut fine-grained tannins seam- while an energizing mineral note suggesting flint grained tannins. It’s balanced, with fresh acidity. lessly support ripe Morello cherry, raspberry, lico- caps off the finish. Drink 2028–2041. T. Edward Drink 2023–2028. The Piedmont Guy. —K.O. rice and tobacco before a flinty finish. Drink 2022– Wines Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $55 2035. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $65 abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Le Pianelle 2017 Al Forte (Coste della Sesia). Carlone Davide 2016 Boca. A fragrant blend 90 A blend of 70% Nebbiolo, 20% Travaglini 2015 Il Sogno (Gattinara). Made 92 of Nebbiolo and 15% Vespolina, this linear, and 10% Vespolina, this has aromas of ripe black- 93 with dried Nebbiolo grapes, this has aro- focused red has aromas of rose petal, alpine herb, skinned fruit, menthol and licorice. The aromas mas recalling mature dark-skinned fruit, baking new leather and underbrush. On the racy, medium- carry over to the smooth, medium-bodied palate, spice, flint and menthol. The bold, velvety palate bodied palate, notes of white pepper and star anise along with white pepper and orange zest while fine- doles out baked plum, raspberry jam, vanilla and accent ripe Morello cherry before a savory saline grained tannins provide the lithe framework. Drink nutmeg framed in densely woven, fine-grained tan- finish. Tightly wound fine-grained tannins and a through 2023. Oliver McCrum Wines. —K.O. nins before closing on an almost tangy mineral note. backbone of firm acidity provide the ageworthy abv: 13.5% Price: $50 Drink through 2030. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. framework. Drink 2026–2036. T. Edward Wines abv: 15.5% Price: $120 Ltd. —K.O. Cascina Preziosa 2017 Spanna (Coste della abv: 13.5% Price: $45 89 Sesia). A blend of 85% Nebbiolo and 15% Travaglini 2015 Riserva (Gattinara). Aro- Barbera, this has aromas of exotic spice, blue flower 93 mas of underbrush, camphor and dark spice and a whiff of toasted nut. It’s firm and austere,

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 offering suggestions of dried cherry, orange zest and but the fruit has largely vanished so drink sooner underbrush and spring flower mingle with whiffs licorice alongside tightly knit, close-grained tan- rather than later. Tradizione Imports. —K.O. of bread dough on this 60% Pinot Nero and 40% nins. Bright acidity keeps it energized. Drink after abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Chardonnay. Elegantly sparkling, the linear palate 2022. The Piedmont Guy. —K.O. doles out mature yellow apple, hazelnut, botanical abv: 13.5% Price: $35 herb and citrus zest alongside crisp acidity. CTS OTHER RED WINES Distributing. —K.O. Travaglini 2019 Nebbiolo (Coste della ­Sesia). abv: 13% Price: $28 89 Violet, red-berry and dark-spice aromas Colombera & Garella 2016 Pizzaguerra shape the nose on this young, vibrant red. The 92 (Lessona).­ Intensely fragrant, this has aro- San Silvestro 2015 Dosaggio Zero (Alta Langa).­ savory, easy-drinking palate offers juicy Morello mas reminiscent of freshly picked rose, botanical 91 A blend of 70% Pinot Nero and 30% Char- cherry, licorice and a hint of white pepper alongside herb, perfumed berry and dark spice. Linear and donnay, this has delicate scents of white stone fruit bright acidity and smooth, supple tannins. It shows precise, the focused palate delivers fresh straw- and bread crust. The elegantly sparkling palate the lighter side of Nebbiolo and is ready to enjoy berry, sour cherry, licorice and sage alongside racy offers yellow apple, ginger and of citrus alongside a now. Drink through 2024. Taub Family Selections. acidity and fine-grained tannins. Drink 2024–2036. refined perlage. It closes on a hint of white almond. —K.O. Porto Vino Italiano. Cellar Selection. —K.O. More Than Grapes. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $35 abv: 13% Price: $30

Cascina Preziosa 2018 Vespolina (Coste Braida di Giacomo Bologna 2019 Limonte 88 della Sesia). Aromas of forest floor, dark- 89 (Grignolino d’Asti). Aromas of red-skinned FRANCIACORTA skinned berry, toasted hazelnut and a potpourri berry and cooking spice lead the nose while the of baking spice lead the nose. On the concentrated medium-bodied palate offers succulent strawberry, 1701 2016 Rosé Brut Nature (Franciacorta). palate, a backbone of vigorous acidity accompanies red cherry and hints of white pepper. Bright acidity 94 Made entirely with Pinot Nero grapes cul- dried Marasca cherry, black pepper, ground clove and smooth tannins provide freshness and balance. tivated according to certified biodynamic farm- and minty notes alongside dusty tannins before a For a perfect summer red, serve slightly chilled. ing methods, this gorgeous sparkler offers delicate puckering, mouthdrying close. It’s a bit rustic but Soilair Selection. —K.O. scents of wild red berry, baking spice and bread has charm for sure. Drink after 2023. The Piedmont abv: 14% Price: $24 dough and grilled herb. The vibrant, bone-dry and Guy. —K.O. delicious palate is loaded with finesse, deliver- abv: 13.5% Price: $36 ing juicy strawberry, pomegranate, citrus zest and NORTHERN ITALY baking spice. Fresh acidity and a polished, foaming Colombera & Garella 2018 Coste della Sesia. mousse lend balance and finesse. —K.O. 88 Red-berry, forest-floor, rose and cinnamon SPARKLING WINES abv: 12.5% Price: $NA aromas follow over to the racy palate together with orange zest and star anise. Vigorous acidity and lithe ALTA LANGA Berlucchi 2012 ’61 Nature Dosaggio Zero tannins provide the setting. Give it a few more years 94 (Franciacorta). Bone-dry and elegant, this to fully integrate then drink. Porto Vino Italiano. Ettore Germano 2016 Metodo Classico Extra­ polished sparkler has aromas of spring wildflower, —K.O. 95 Brut (Alta Langa). Delicate aromas of white honey, white stone fruit and bread crust. On the abv: 13% Price: $20 stone fruit, yellow spring flower and a whiff of vibrant palate, a silky perlage accompanies ripe yel- bread crust form the delicate, enticing nose on this low apple, peach and ginger before finishing on an bone-dry sparkler. It’s elegant, vibrant and deli- almond note. Volio Vino. —K.O. COLLINE NOVARESI cious, doling out ripe apple, pear and a hint of gin- abv: 12.5% Price: $62 ger set against an extremely refined perlage. Bright, Ioppa 2019 Nebbiolo (Colline Novaresi). tangy acidity gives it a crisp, pristine finish. Oliver Fratelli Berlucchi 2012 Casa delle Colonne 88 Violet and red-berry aromas mingle with ­McCrum Wines. —K.O. 94 Brut (Franciacorta). Crisp, dry and struc- dark spice on this bright, youthful red. Linear and abv: 12.5% Price: $45 tured, this dazzling sparkler has aromas of yellow racy, the palate shows black cherry, orange zest apple, pear, camphor and bread crust. The aromas and ground brown pepper alongside zesty acidity Enrico Serafino 2016 Oudeis Brut (Alta follow over to the dry palate along with lemon drop and taut tannins. Drink through 2023. Grand Cru 92 Langa). Made with 85% Pinot Nero and and a sprinkling of ginger. A silky perlage provides Selections.­ —K.O. 15% Chardonnay, this has inviting aromas of bread loads of finesse while fresh acidity keeps it focused. abv: 12.5% Price: $14 dough, red berry, eucalyptus and baking spice. The Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O. aromas follow through to the focused palate, along abv: 13% Price: $80 Ioppa 2015 Mualetta Vespolina (Colline with pomegranate, hazelnut and star anise set 88 Novaresi). This spicy red opens with aro- against a refined perlage. Vibrant acidity lifts the 1701 2013 Dosaggio Zero Riserva (Francia- mas of clove, star anise, wild herb and exotic spice. finish. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. 93 corta). A blend of 90% Chardonnay and The round palate is light on its feet, offering Mar- abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Pinot Nero, this elegant, focused sparkler has aro- asca cherry, black pepper and a hint of blood orange. mas of bread crust, wild herb and ripe white stone It’s ready to enjoy, with lithe tannins and fresh acid- Bel Colle 2016 Cuvée Valentina Extra Brut fruit. Made with no dosage, the racy palate features ity. Grand Cru Selections. —K.O. 91 (Alta Langa). Made with 90% Pinot Nero mature yellow apple, Meyer lemon and toasted abv: 13% Price: $20 and 10% Chardonnay, this has alluring aromas of hazelnut set against an elegant, persistent per- field flower, ripe apple, tropical fruit and wild herb. lage. ­Vibrant acidity lifts the rich flavors. Dry Farm Ca’ Nova 2010 San Quirico Nebbiolo (Colline On the dry, radiant palate, firm acidity and a lively Wines. —K.O. 87 Novaresi). This ten-year-old wine has aro- perlage accompany white peach, vanilla and lemon abv: 12.5% Price: $110 mas recalling underbrush, carob, flint, prune and drop, before finishing on notes of thyme and bitter sunbaked soil. The aromas carry over to the rather almond. Quintessential Wines. —K.O. Bellavista 2013 Vittorio Moretti (Francia­ lean palate alongside firm, drying tannins that leave abv: 12.5% Price: $60 93 corta). Chamomile, yellow-pear, citrus-zest a somewhat astringent finish. It still has firm acidity and bread-crust aromas shape the nose on this Giribaldi 2016 Matteo Giribaldi (Alta Langa). blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Nero. On 91 Delicate scents evoking white stone fruit, the elegantly structured, creamy palate, a refined

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BUYINGGUIDE perlage accompanies mature yellow apple, orange Mirabella 2013 Demetra Extra Brut (Francia­ ­refined perlage accompanies the rich flavors. Tavolo rind, walnut and vanilla. Fresh acidity brightens the 92 corta). Dry and classy, this racy sparkler Vigneto. —K.O. rich flavors. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O. opens with delicate scents recalling spring wild abv: 12.5% Price: $65 abv: 12.5% Price: $142 flower and white stone fruit. The elegant, vibrant palate delivers yellow apple, Meyer lemon, bread Ronco Calino 2012 Brut (Franciacorta). ­Mature Bonfadini 2016 Victus Nature (Franciacorta). crust and an energizing mineral note suggesting wet 91 yellow stone-fruit, bread crust and baking-spice 93 Delicate scents of hawthorn and white stone stone set against a polished, persistent perlage. Bac- aromas waft out of the glass. On the palate, a silky fruit form the nose on this bone-dry sparkler. Racy chanal Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. perlage accompanies lemon drop, golden apple and and focused, the precise, savory palate delivers abv: 12.5% Price: $39 toasted hazelnut. Fresh acidity lifts the rich flavors. apple, pear, ginger and citrus alongside a refined, Vineyard Road. —K.O. continuous perlage. It’s full of energy, with bright Antica Fratta 2015 Essence Rosé Brut abv: 12.5% Price: $40 acidity. Bottle to Glass. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. 91 (Franciacorta).­ Aromas of bread crust and abv: 12.5% Price: $50 saline carry over to the racy palate along with yel- Antica Fratta 2015 Essence Noir Extra Brut low apple and pomegranate. Vibrant acidity and a 90 (Franciacorta). Aromas of bread crust, Antica Fratta 2015 Essence Nature (Francia- lively perlage provide the energized setting. Soilair toasted hazelnut and orange rind follow over to the 92 corta). Bone-dry and pristine, this elegant Selection. —K.O. palate, along with ripe apricot, ginger and a hint of sparkler has delicate aromas of white stone fruit, abv: 13% Price: $48 pomegranate. Fresh acidity and a persistent perlage yellow spring flower and a whiff of bread crust. On provide the setting. Soilair Selection. —K.O. the vibrant palate, a refined, continuous perlage and Bonfadini 2015 Aurora Rosé (Franciacorta). abv: 12.5% Price: $55 bright acidity accompany ripe yellow apple, Meyer 91 A fifty-fifty blend of Chardonnay and Pinot lemon and toasted hazelnut. Soilair Selection. —K.O. Nero, this dry, elegant sparkler has aromas of bread Castello Bonomi 2011 Cru Perdu Millesimato abv: 13% Price: $48 crust and mature white stone fruit. The vibrant, 90 (Franciacorta). For full review see page 19. linear palate reveals ripe golden apple, pomegran- abv: 12.5% Price: $39 Antica Fratta 2009 Quintessence Extra Brut ate and a hint of saline alongside small, continu- 92 Riserva (Franciacorta). Bread-crust, chamo- ous bubbles. It closes on a hazelnut note. Bottle to Corte Fusia NV Brut (Franciacorta). White mile, underbrush and mature yellow stone-fruit Glass. —K.O. 90 stone-fruit and yellow spring-flower aro- aromas form the nose on this dry, intriguing spar- abv: 12.5% Price: $50 mas align with a whiff of bread crust on this ele- kler. At eleven years old, it shows complexity and gantly sparkling wine. Bright and linear, the tangy freshness, offering toasted hazelnut, mature golden Corte Fusia 2014 Dosaggio Zero (Franciacorta). palate offers mature yellow apple, lemon drop and apple, unsweetened lemon drop and a hint of saline 91 Aromas of yellow apple, bread crust and hazelnut. Matchvino. —K.O. before closing on a coffee-bean note. A refined per- hazel­nut carry on to the dry, racy palate along with abv: NA Price: $40 lage provides finesse. Soilair Selection. —K.O. lemon zest, Barlett pear and a hint of ginger. Vibrant abv: 13% Price: $65 acidity and an elegant, persistent perlage present Ricci Curbastro 2009 Museum Release Extra­ the energized setting. WBMatch Vino. —K.O. 90 Brut (Franciacorta). Aromas of mature Barone Pizzini 2011 Bagnadore Dosaggio abv: 12.5% Price: $64 stone fruit, bread crust, orange liqueur and cedar 92 Zero Riserva (Franciacorta). Aromas of yel- form the nose. On the subtle palate, an elegant low spring flower, mature stone fruit and bread Ferghettina NV Brut (Franciacorta). Tangy perlage accompanies mature golden apple, orange crust waft out of the glass on this elegantly struc- 91 and creamy, this savory sparkler doles out rind and candied lemon drop before a bitter-walnut tured blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot ripe yellow apple, Bartlett pear and white peach close. Tavolo Vigneto. —K.O. Nero. The precise palate offers ripe yellow-apple, alongside crisp acidity. Small, persistent bubbles abv: 12.5% Price: $75 unsweetened lemon-zest, almond and savory min- provide the background while notes of lemon drop eral notes alongside bright acidity. A refined, persis- and almond grace the close. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. Ronco Calino 2015 Nature (Franciacorta). tent perlage provides finesse. LLS–Winebow. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $39 90 Made with 70% Chardonnay and 30% abv: 12% Price: $60 ­Pinot Nero, this has aromas of white spring blos- Ferghettina 2015 Milledi Brut Chardonnay som, white stone fruit and bread crust. The dry, Berlucchi 2009 Palazzo Lana Extra Brut 91 (Franciacorta). Aromas of bread crust, honey focused palate features ripe golden apple, Meyer 92 Riserva (Franciacorta). Enticingly delicate and white stone fruit lift out of the glass. The brisk lemon and white almond set against bright acidity aromas of chamomile, white stone fruit and bread palate offers tangy orange rind, walnut and mature a vibrant perlage. Vineyard Road. —K.O. crust mingle with whiffs of orange-citrus zest on yellow apple alongside persistent bubbles. It closes abv: 12.5% Price: $40 this dry, elegant sparkler. Incredibly youthful for on a bitter-almond note. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. an 11-year-old wine, it’s well balanced, featuring abv: 12.5% Price: $55 Santa Lucia 2014 Dosaggio Zero (Francia­ mature yellow apple, white peach, ginger and a dol- 90 corta). Aromas of bread crust and toasted lop of vanilla set against a silky perlage. Fresh acidity La Montina 2011 Baiana Pas Dosé Riserva nut follow through to the bone-dry palate along brightens the rich flavors. This proves the serious 91 (Franciacorta). Aromas of pressed chamo- with mature yellow apple and a hint of saline. A aging potential of top wines from the denomination. mile, bread crust and citrus zest waft out of the lively perlage and racy acidity provide energized Volio Vino. —K.O. glass. It’s bone-dry and racy, delivering juicy grape- support. Fantastik Imports. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $92 fruit, yellow apple and saline alongside a lively, abv: 12.5% Price: $NA ­elegant perlage. Wine Affairs. —K.O. La Montina 2012 Brut (Franciacorta). Intrigu- abv: 12.5% Price: $48 Villa 2015 Emozione Brut (Franciacorta). 92 ing aromas include smoke, charcuterie and 90 Delicate scents recalling saline, botani- bread crust on this 100% Chardonnay sparkler. The Ricci Curbastro 2010 Gualberto Dosaggio cal herb and a the barest whiff of citrus form the aromas carry over to the elegantly sparkling pal- 91 Zero (Franciacorta). Aromas of toasted bread subtle nose. On the dry, racy palate, brisk acidity ate along with juicy white peach, grilled herb and crust, mature stone fruit and a whiff of honeyed nut and a lively perlage accompany ripe yellow apple, lemon drop. It’s surprisingly fresh for an eight-year- form the nose. The aromas carry on to the vibrant unsweetened lemon drop and a hint of hazelnut. old bottling, but also has complexity. A silky perlage palate along with mature golden apple and white MPP Selections. —K.O. keeps it polished. Wine Affairs. —K.O. peach before closing on a bitter-almond note. A abv: 12.5% Price: $40 abv: 12% Price: $35

78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Antica Fratta 2015 Essence Brut (Francia­ apple and bitter walnut skin set against a bracing out of the glass. The palate is polished and smooth, 89 corta). Hawthorn, pear and hazelnut aro- perlage. Serendipity Wine Imports. —K.O. featuring yellow apple, orange rind and walnut mas lift out of the glass along with a whiff of medic- abv: 12.5% Price: $40 alongside a silky perlage and bright acidity. Alarich inal herb. The bright, lively palate offers mature ­Distributing. —K.O. yellow apple and bread crust set against a vigorous Monte Rossa NV Blanc de Blancs Brut Char- abv: 12.5% Price: $25 perlage. Soilair Selection. —K.O. 87 donnay (Franciacorta). Aromas of orange abv: 13% Price: $48 rind and walnut are front and center on this bracing Jako Wine 2009 Metodo Classico Brut sparkler. The aromas follow over to the invigorating 89 (Oltrepò­ Pavese). Made entirely with Pinot Ricci Curbastro 2015 Extra Brut (F­ranciacorta). palate, along with yellow-apple skin, bitter nut and Nero, this mature sparkler offers aromas suggesting 89 This vibrant sparkler has a subtle nose sug- brisk acidity. Dark Star Imports. —K.O. bread crust, walnut and orange-flavored liqueur. gesting bread crust and orange zest. The aromas abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Reflecting the nose, the structured palate features carry over to the racy palate along with toasted nut orange zest, brandy soaked apricot and toasted nut and mature yellow-apple skin while a lively perlage Monte Rossa NV Flamingo Rosé Brut (Francia­ alongside a refined perlage. The evolved flavor pro- and brisk acidity keep it vibrant. Tavolo Vigneto. 87 corta). Aromas of walnut and orange rind file shows its age but it still has surprisingly fresh —K.O. follow over to the palate, along with bread crust acidity. Strategic Importers. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $45 and hints of sour cherry. An invigorating perlage abv: 12.5% Price: $80 and bright acidity provide the backdrop. Dark Star Bellavista 2015 Rosé Brut (Franciacorta). Imports. —K.O. 88 Aromas of bread crust and orange liqueur abv: 12.5% Price: $NA LAMBRUSCO DI SORBARA are front and center. The aromas follow over to pal- ate, along with mature yellow apple and toasted Villa 2014 Bokè Rosé Brut (Franciacorta). Paltrinieri 2019 Leclisse (Lambrusco di walnut alongside a lively perlage. Bright acidity 87 Aromas suggesting toasted bread crust, 95 ­Sorbara). Absolutely delicious, this elegant, keeps it tangy. USA Wine West. —K.O. under­brush and hazelnut form the nose. On the racy fragrant wine offers enticing aromas of violet, red abv: 12.5% Price: $39 palate, notes of orange-flavored liqueur and vanilla berry, citrus and baking spice. The bone-dry, foam- accompany pomegranate and apple. Firm acidity ing palate delivers strawberry, raspberry and red Bellavista 2015 Teatro alla Scala Brut (Fran- and an invigorating perlage provide the backdrop. cherry, accented with cinnamon and ginger notes. 88 ciacorta). Aromas of bread crust and orange MPP Selections. —K.O. Crisp acidity gives it a pristine, quenching finish liqueur carry over to the palate along with mature abv: 12.5% Price: $45 that leaves you wanting more. Lyra Wine. Editors’ yellow-apple skin and walnut. Fresh acidity and a Choice. —K.O. vibrant perlage provide the invigorating setting. abv: 11% Price: $25 USA Wine West. —K.O. OLTREPÒ PAVESE abv: 12.5% Price: $35 Paltrinieri 2019 Radice (Lambrusco di Sor- Travaglino 2016 Gran Cuvée Blanc de Noir 95 bara). Made by carrying out the second Contadi Castaldi 2015 Zero (Franciacorta). 92 (Oltrepò Pavese). Made entirely with Pinot fermentation in the bottle, this radiant, lightly 88 Aromas of white stone fruit, toasted nut Nero but vinified as a white wine, this dry, savory sparkling wine opens with heady aromas of citrus, and medicinal herb lift out of the glass. Reflecting sparkler has delicate scents of spring wild flower, violet and a yeasty whiff of bread dough. Bone-dry the nose, the dry palate offers mature yellow apple, pastry dough and ginger. On the focused, structured and delicious, the energized palate delivers tart hazelnut, and a hint of thyme alongside tangy acid- palate, an elegant, persistent perlage accompa- sour cherry, juicy pomegranate, pink grapefruit and ity and an invigorating perlage. USA Wine West. nies bread crust, apple, citrus and white almond. white pepper alongside crisp acidity and a savory —K.O. ­Vibrant acidity keeps it fresh and balanced. Alarich hint of saline. One bottle probably won’t be enough. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Distributing. —K.O. Lyra Wine. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $30 abv: 11% Price: $20 Lantieri 2016 Arcadia Brut (Franciacorta). 88 Aromas of bread crust and orange-flavored Travaglino 2014 Metodo Classico Monte­ Medici Ermete 2018 Metodo Classico Carezza liqueur follow over to the palate along with ripe 92 ceresino Rosé Brut (Oltrepò Pavese). Aromas 92 (Lambrusco di Sorbara). Aromas of straw- yellow apple, lemon drop and walnut. Bright acid- of red berry, rhubarb and botanical herb shape the berries, rose petals and a whiff of brioche follow ity and persistent, steely bubbles provide the back- enticing nose on this vibrant sparkler. Made entirely­ over to the tangy, savory palate along with orange drop. Franciacorta Imports. —K.O. with Pinot Nero, the dry, savory palate offers juicy rind and sour cherry. Bright acidity and an ele- abv: 12.5% Price: $39 pomegranate, strawberry compote, baking spice gant, lively perlage provide the energized setting. and a hint of bread crust alongside crisp acidity. A ­Kobrand. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. Lo Sparviere 2013 Extra But Chardonnay silky perlage keeps it smooth and polished. Alarich abv: 12% Price: $28 88 (Franciacorta). Aromas of bread crust, ­Distributing. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. medicinal herb and a whiff suggesting adhesive ban- abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Paltrinieri 2019 Grosso Metodo Classico dage form the subtle nose on this sparkling Char- 92 (Lambrusco di Sorbara). Bread-crust, straw- donnay. The aromas carry over to the palate, along Travaglino 2011 Riserva del Fondatore Vin- berry, vanilla and orange-rind aromas escape the with mature yellow-apple skin, toasted nut and 92 cenzo Comi Brut (Oltrepò Pavese). Aromas glass. The aromas carry over to the elegant palate orange rind. An elegant perlage provides finesse. suggesting bread crust, mature stone fruit and yel- along with pink grapefruit and star anise set against Panebianco. —K.O. low spring flower form the inviting nose. Creamy tangy acidity. Lyra Wine. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $120 and vibrant, the savory palate doles out ripe yellow abv: 12% Price: $NA apple, orange drop, apricot and toasted hazelnut Castello Bonomi 2012 Dosaggio Zero (Fran- alongside a refined, persistent perlage. Bright acid- Cantina di Soliera NV Il Trovador (Lambrusco 87 ciacorta). This invigorating sparkler opens ity keeps it crisp. Alarich Distributing. —K.O. 91 di Sorbara). Refermented in the bottle, this with subdued aromas suggesting toasted nut, bread abv: 12.5% Price: $33 savory sparkler has aromas of grapefruit, rose and crust, coconut and citrus. The aromas carry over red berry. The lightly sparkling palate doles out juicy to the dry, linear palate along with mature yellow Travaglino 2016 Metodo Classico Cuvée 59 red cherry, citrus, yeasty whiffs of bread dough and 90 (Oltrepò Pavese). Spring-flower, white stone-fruit, citrus and bread-crust aromas waft

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BUYINGGUIDE white pepper alongside tangy acidity. It has a crisp, white stone fruit and a delicate whiff of forest floor close. Bright acidity lifts the rich flavors. WinesU. mouthwatering close. Dark Star Imports. —K.O. form the alluring nose. Elegant and structured, the —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $27 palate delivers ripe yellow apple, toasted hazelnut, abv: 11.5% Price: $NA ginger and a dollop of vanilla alongside a refined, Medici Ermete 2019 Phermento Frizzante persistent perlage. It has intriguing depth and com- La Gioiosa 2019 Brut (Valdobbiadene Pro- 91 (Lambrusco di Sorbara). Refermented in the plexity while fresh acidity keeps it vibrant. Solstars. 90 secco Superiore). Crisp and savory, this pol- bottle, this lightly sparkling wine has aromas of —K.O. ished sparkler has alluring aromas of green apple, red berry, violet, citrus and yeasty whiffs of bread abv: 13% Price: $NA citrus and white almond. The aromas carry over dough. Mirroring the nose, the dry, tangy palate to the dry, gently foaming palate along with tangy doles out juicy raspberry, grapefruit and a hint of Altemasi 2016 Millesimato Brut (Trento). lemon zest. Bright acidity keeps it refreshingly ginger alongside crisp acidity. Kobrand. —K.O. 91 Aromas of white spring flower, white stone vibrant. Ethica Wines. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 11% Price: $27 fruit and bread crust form the nose on this bright, abv: 11% Price: $19 sparkling Chardonnay. The elegant palate offers ripe Paltrinieri 2019 Piria (Lambrusco di Sorbara). yellow apple, chamomile and a dollop of baking spice Villa Sandi 2019 Rive di San Pietro di Babozza­ 91 Fun and refreshing, this dry, lightly spar- set against a refined perlage. Palm Bay International. 90 (Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Intense kling wine presents juicy strawberry, raspberry —K.O. aromas of apple and honeysuckle fol- and orange rind accented by a hint of white pepper. abv: 12.5% Price: $30 low through to the vibrant palate along with can- Made with 70% Lambrusco di Sorbara and 30% died lemon drop and pineapple packed in syrup. Lambrusco di Salamino, it’s crisp and savory, with Rotari 2012 Flavio Riserva (Trento). This Crisp acidity lifts and balances the rich flavors while ultrafine bubbles. Lyra Wine.Best Buy. —K.O. 91 elegant sparkler offers inviting aromas of a foaming palate lends finesse. Folio Fine Wine abv: 12% Price: $15 ­toasted hazelnut, mature white stone fruit and ­Partners. —K.O. bread crust. The aromas carry over to the polished abv: 11.5% Price: $23 Paltrinieri 2018 La Riserva (Lambrusco di palate, along with ripe yellow apple and a hint of 91 Sorbara). Aromas of violet, botanical herb citrus set against vibrant acidity and a persistent Bacio della Luna 2019 Brut (Valdobbiadene and whiffs of walnut form the nose. It’s bright and perlage. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —K.O. 89 Prosecco Superiore). Aromas of green apple savory, featuring juicy pomegranate, pink grapefruit abv: 13% Price: $49 and hawthorn shape the nose. The Granny Smith and a hint of spice alongside a refined perlage. Lyra note follows over to the palate, along with white Wine. —K.O. Altemasi NV Rosé Brut (Trento). Fresh and peach and lemon drop alongside vibrant acidity. abv: 12% Price: $30 90 refined, this bright sparkler opens with aro- A foaming mousse provides the backdrop while a mas of graphite, dried herb and alpine wild ­flower. hint of almond marks the close. Schenk Wines USA. Villa di Corlo 2019 Primevo (Lambrusco di A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Nero, it offers ripe —K.O. 91 Sorbara). Dry and tangy, this sparkler has white stone fruit, pink grapefruit and a hint of bri- abv: 11% Price: $25 aromas of violet, red berry, grapefruit and a whiff oche. Racy acidity and a polished, vibrant perlage of baking spice. Reflecting the nose, the savory, provide the setting. Palm Bay International. —K.O. Bellenda 2017 Metodo Classico Rive di quenching palate doles out juicy sour cherry, straw- abv: 12.5% Price: $30 89 Carpescia Dry (Valdobbiadene Prosecco berry and white pepper, alongside a foamy mousse Superiore).­ Aromas suggesting pastry dough, white and crisp acidity. Ethica Wines. Best Buy. —K.O. flower and citrus waft out of the glass. On the rather abv: 11% Price: $15 PROSECCO sweet, creamy palate, a refined perlage accompanies ripe yellow apple, honeyed almond, fig and candied Ca’ dei Zago 2018 Metodo Classico Dosaggio lemon drop. Bright acidity refreshes the rich flavors. TRENTO 93 Zero (Valdobbiadene Prosecco). Bone-dry Specialty Cellars. —K.O. and savory, this focused sparkler has delicate, entic- abv: 11.5% Price: $30 Maso Martis 2016 Dosaggio Zero Riserva ing scents of aromatic herb, white stone fruit and 95 (Trento). A blend of 70% Pinot Nero and yellow field flower. On the racy palate, crisp acidity Masottina 2019 R.D.O. Rive di Ogliano Extra 30% Chardonnay, this compelling, focused spar- accompanies Bartlett pear, Anjou pear, citrus zest 89 Dry (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco kler offers aromas of white spring flower and bread and flinty mineral notes. An elegant perlage pro- Superiore). Heady aromas of white wild flower and dough. Made with organically farmed grapes, the vides finesse. Ethica Wines. —K.O. green apple lead the nose. The creamy, off-dry pal- pristine, delicious palate offers white stone fruit, abv: 11.5% Price: $40 ate offers ripe white peach, pineapple and lemon alpine herb and juicy Meyer lemon alongside savory drop alongside a foaming mousse. Tangy acidity saline mineral notes. Crisp acidity and an elegant Ruggeri & C. 2019 Vecchie Viti Brut (Valdob- brightens the rich flavors. Tri-Vin Imports. —K.O. perlage provide energy and finesse. For lovers of 93 biadene Prosecco Superiore). For full review abv: 11.5% Price: $27 bone-dry, elegant bubbly, this is for you. Solstars. see page 11. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $40 Merotto NV Dry (Valdobbiadene Superiore abv: 12.5% Price: $67 89 di Cartizze). This rather sweet sparkler Bellenda 2017 Sei Uno Metodo Classico Rive has aromas of toasted hazelnut and ripe apricot. Revi 2016 Rosé Brut (Trento). Aromas of 91 di ­Carpesica Extra Brut (Valdobbiadene The aromas follow through to the foaming palate, 94 wild berry, freshly baked bread and alpine ­Prosecco Superiore). For full review see page 15. along with mature yellow apple, bitter almond and herb lead the nose, along with whiffs of cake spice abv: 11.5% Price: $30 candied lemon-drop notes. Prestige Wine Imports and pink grapefruit. The silky palate shows struc- Corp. —K.O. ture and finesse, delivering juicy strawberry, pome- Ruggeri & C. NV Brut (Valdobbiadene Supe- abv: 11.5% Price: $NA granate, white pepper and white almond alongside 91 riore di Cartizze). Creamy and polished, this racy acidity and an elegant perlage. Vinity Wine lovely sparkler offers enticing scents of white spring Nino Franco 2019 Dry (Valdobbiadene Supe- Company. —K.O. wild flower and Granny Smith apple. On the palate, 89 riore di Cartizze). Aromas of yellow apple, abv: 12.5% Price: $30 a silky mousse accompanies white peach, lemon toasted nut and chamomile form the nose on this drop and ripe yellow pear before a white-almond sparkling . The aromas carry over to Maso Martis 2010 Rare Vintage Riserva the foaming palate along with candied orange rind 93 (Trento). Aromas of bread crust, mature

80 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 and candied lemon drop. Fresh acidity brightens the La Gioiosa NV Extra Dry (Valdobbiadene candied lemon drop and a note bitter almond along- sweet flavors. Terlato Wines International. —K.O. 88 Prosecco­ Superiore). Green-apple, toasted side a lively perlage and crisp acidity. 8 Vini, Inc. abv: 11% Price: $38 nut and chamomile aromas follow over to the palate —K.O. along with candied lemon drop and bitter walnut. A abv: 11% Price: $18 Santi 2019 Extra Dry (Valdobbiadene refined perlage and crisp acidity form the backdrop. 89 Prosecco­ Superiore). Creamy and crisp, this Ethica Wines. —K.O. Santi 2019 Brut (Valdobbiadene Prosecco charming sparkler has delicate aromas of hawthorn abv: 11% Price: $18 87 Superiore). Delicate scents of white spring and ripe stone fruit. The polished palate offers flower and white stone fruit waft out of the glass. white peach, green apple and candied lemon drop La Gioiosa 2019 Asolo Prosecco Superiore. On the crisp palate, racy acidity and a foaming alongside a silky mousse. Vibrant acidity brightens 88 Aromas of jasmine, tropical fruit and green mousse accompany Granny Smith apple and white the rich flavors. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. apple lift out of the glass. The fruity aromas carry almond. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. —K.O. over to the vibrant palate along with white peach abv: 11% Price: $18 abv: 11% Price: $18 and candied lemon drop before a white-almond close. A silky mousse accompanies the rich flavors. Jako Wine NV Extra Dry (Valdobbiadene Bacio della Luna 2019 Extra Brut (Coneg- Ethica Wines. —K.O. 86 Prosecco­ Superiore). Subtle aromas of green 88 liano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). abv: 11% Price: $18 apple, spring blossom and sage follow through to Aromas of green apple, citrus and medicinal herb the brisk, off-dry palate, along with candied lemon are front and center. The aromas carry over to the Merotto 2019 Castè Extra Dry (Valdobbia­ drop. Firm acidity and steely bubbles provide the foaming palate along with lemon drop before a 88 dene Prosecco Superiore). Subdued aromas backdrop. Strategic Importers. —K.O. ­bitter-almond close. Wooden Ships. —K.O. suggesting orange rind, yellow apple and walnut abv: 11% Price: $15 abv: 11% Price: $25 follow over to the racy palate, along with a hint of honeyed almond and a candied lemon-drop note. A Cecilia Beretta 2019 Conegliano Valdobbi- Bacio della Luna 2019 Extra Dry (Valdobbi- silky mousse lends polish, while fresh acidity keeps 85 adene Prosecco Superiore. Aromas of green 88 adene Prosecco Superiore). Aromas of fra- it fresh. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —K.O. apple, citrus rind and medicinal notes are front and grant spring wild flower, tropical fruit and citrus abv: 11.5% Price: $NA center. The aromas follow over to the brisk, simple form the delicate nose. On the vibrant palate, bright palate along with a hint of vanilla and lively, steely acidity and a polished mousse accompany Granny Pizzolato NV Stefany Extra Dry (Valdobbia­ bubbles. Pasqua USA LLC. Best Buy. —K.O. Smith apple, white peach and candied lemon drop 88 dene Prosecco). Made with organically abv: 11% Price: $10 before a bitter-almond close. Schenk Wines USA. grown grapes, this has aromas of green apple, —K.O. pastry cream and citrus. On the off-dry palate, a Bacio della Luna 2019 Dry (Valdobbiadene abv: 11% Price: $25 foaming perlage and tangy acidity accompany white 84 Superiore di Cartizze). Aromas of adhesive peaches and candied lemon drops. Natural Mer- bandage and walnut form the nose. The muddled Bellenda 2017 S.C. 1931 (Valdobbiadene chants, Inc. —K.O. palate is both sweet and bitter, offering ripe white 88 Prosecco­ Superiore). Aromas of brioche, abv: 11% Price: $19 peach, candied notes, astringent medicinal herb yellow apple and toasted nut carry over to the dry and sweet-and-sour sauce alongside harsh, steely palate along with hints of Bartlett pear and lemon Val d’Oca 2019 Millesimato Extra Dry (Val- bubbles. Wooden Ships. —K.O. zest. Bright acidity and a lively perlage keep it 88 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Aromas abv: 11% Price: $35 ­vibrant. Specialty Cellars. —K.O. of ripe white stone fruit, spring blossom and citrus abv: 11.5% Price: $30 zest lead the nose. On the foaming palate, vibrant Bellenda 2018 VS Extra Brut (Valdobbiadene acidity accompanies ripe yellow peach, yellow apple 83 Prosecco Superiore). Fermented in the bottle Cà di Rajo 2019 Cuvée del Fondatore (Val- and vanilla alongside notes of candied lemon drop but not disgorged, this has aromas of medicinal 88 dobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). White and white almond. A creamy mousse offerselegance. ­ herb and adhesive bandage. The pungent aromas spring flower, white stone fruit and a whiff of botan- Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —K.O. carry over to the muddled palate along with hints ical herb form the nose. On the crisp palate, a light abv: 11% Price: $18 of yogurt, bread dough and orange-rind set against mousse and bright acidity accompany green apple sharply brisk acidity. Specialty Cellars. —K.O. and bitter-almond before a lemon-drop close. The Val d’Oca 2019 Rive di San Pietro di Barbozza abv: 11.5% Price: $28 Barterhouse. —K.O. 88 Brut (Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). abv: 11% Price: $NA This has delicate aromas suggesting mature white stone fruit, chamomile and toasted nut. The aromas OTHER SPARKLING WINES Cà di Rajo 2019 Extra Dry (Valdobbiadene follow through to the brisk palate along with ripe 88 Prosecco Superiore). Aromas of toasted yellow apple and roasted hazelnut alongside steely, Zenato 2017 Metodo Classico Brut (Lugana). nut align with grilled herb, white spring flower and invigorating bubbles. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. 92 Creamy, dry and delicious, this opens with white stone fruit. On the palate, invigorating bub- —K.O. aromas of Spanish broom, yellow apple, orange zest bles accompany Bartlett pear, ripe peach and can- abv: 11.5% Price: $33 and bread dough. Refined and savory, the polished died tangerine drop. The Barterhouse. —K.O. palate doles out ripe Bartlett pear, white peach and abv: 11% Price: $22 Ciodet NV Lebano Brut (Valdobbiadene Pro- vanilla alongside a silky perlage. Tangy acidity lifts 87 secco Superiore). Granny Smith apple and the rich flavors. Winebow. —K.O. Graziano Merotto 2019 La Primavera di toasted nut aromas lead the nose on this foaming abv: 12.5% Price: $28 88 Barbara Dry (Valdobbiadene Prosecco sparkler. Reflecting the nose, the tangy palate offers Superiore).­ Foamy and fragrant, this has delicate mature pear and bitter-almond alongside crisp San Silvestro 2016 Metodo Classico Rosé aromas of green apple and candied citrus drop. On acidity. Solstars. —K.O. 86 ­Neboise (Nebbiolo d’Alba). Aromas of adhe- the sweet palate, bright acidity lifts rich flavors of abv: NA Price: $NA sive bandage, walnut and bread crust lead the nose ripe yellow pear, pineapple packed in syrup, candied along with orange zest. The aromas carry over to the orange slice and honeyed almond. A creamy perlage Piccini NV Extra Dry (Prosecco). Packaged in brisk palate, along with honey and bitter-almond set provides the backdrop. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. 87 a stunning ridged bottle, this has delicate against steely bubbles. More Than Grapes. —K.O. —K.O. scents of white spring flower, citrus and a hint of abv: 12.5% Price: $30 abv: 11.5% Price: $NA nut. The tangy palate offers mature yellow apple,

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Volpaia 2016 Il Puro Casanova Gran Selezione tobacco. The chewy palate offers dried black cherry, CENTRAL ITALY 91 (Chianti Classico). Made with organically espresso and vanilla alongside dusty tannins. Drink farmed , this has aromas of underbrush, through 2025. Vino Veritas. —K.O. CHIANTI CLASSICO French oak and dark-skinned fruit. Reflecting the abv: 13.5% Price: $NA GRAN SELEZIONE nose, the firm, elegant palate offers coconut, vanilla, French oak and savory Mediterranean herb set Casale dello Sparviero 2016 Paronza Gran Fattoria Montecchio 2015 Pasquino Gran against firm, close-grained tannins that leave a dry- 89 Selezione (Chianti Classico). Aromas of 92 Selezione (Chianti Classico). Made with ing finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —K.O. black-skinned berry, underbrush and mocha shape 100% Sangiovese, this opens with aromas of under­ abv: NA Price: $213 the nose. The ripe palate offers dried black cherry, brush, cocoa, new leather and sunbaked earth. star anise and espresso alongside smooth tannins. Aged partly in large casks and partly in terra-cotta Castello di Verrazzano 2016 Sassello Gran Drink through 2025. PSP Imports. —K.O. amphora, the chewy, rounded palate doles out 90 Selezione (Chianti Classico). Aromas of abv: 14.5% Price: $40 dried cherry, star anise, tobacco and bitter-almond. under­brush, camphor, moist earth and mature Polished tannins provide smooth support. Drink black-skinned fruit form the nose. On the full- Castello La Leccia 2015 Bruciagna Gran through 2025. Simone International. —K.O. bodied, concentrated palate, close-grained tannins 89 Selezione (Chianti Classico). Cedar, tobacco abv: 14.5% Price: $50 accompany dried black cherry, licorice and roasted and underbrush aromas lead the way. The tight coffee bean before a firm, mouthdrying finish. Taub palate offers Marasca cherry, ground clove and Principe Corsini-Villa Le Corti 2016 Zac Gran Family Selections. —K.O. espresso alongside assertive tannins. Drink through 92 Selezione (Chianti Classico). Baked plum, abv: 14.5% Price: $73 2026. Ideal Wine and Spirits. —K.O. vanilla, menthol and fragrant purple-flower aro- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 mas shape the alluring nose. Made with organically Rocca delle Macìe 2016 Riserva di Fizzano grown Sangiovese, the densely concentrated pal- 90 Single Vineyard Gran Selezione (Chianti Clas- Lamole di Lamole 2016 Vigneto di Campo- ate doles out mature Marasca cherry, licorice and sico). For full review see page 21. 89 lungo Gran Selezione (Chianti Classico). tobacco alongside close-grained tannins that give abv: 14.5% Price: $41 ­Aromas of forest floor, tobacco and camphor fol- some grip to the finish. Drink 2022–2028. Total low over to the rather evolved, subdued palate Beverage Solution. —K.O. San Fabiano Calcinaia 2015 Cellole Gran along notes suggesting prune and a hint of star abv: 15% Price: $60 90 Selezione (Chianti Classico). A blend of anise. Drying tannins provide the framework. Santa 95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot, this has aromas ­Margherita USA. —K.O. Cinciano 2015 Gran Selezione (Chianti Clas- of mocha, cedar and menthol. Made with organi- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 91 sico). Aromas of underbrush, sunbaked earth, cally farmed grapes, the full-bodied palate offers prune and pipe tobacco shape the nose. The full- ripe black plum, licorice and orange peel alongside Villa Rosa 2016 Gran Selezione (Chianti Clas- bodied, chewy palate doles out mature plum, licorice assertive tannins. Drink 2021–2027. Matchvino. 89 sico). Made entirely with Sangiovese, this and toasted hazelnut alongside firm, fine-grained —K.O. opens with aromas of mocha, dark-skinned fruit and tannins. Drink through 2025. Noble Harvest, LLC. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 toasted oak. Packed in an excessively heavy bottle, —K.O. the solid palate offers ripe black plum, espresso and abv: 14.5% Price: $46 Tenuta di Lilliano 2017 Gran Selezione (Chi- vanilla alongside assertive tannins. Drink through 90 anti Classic). This opens with aromas of 2025. Volio Vino. —K.O. Frescobaldi 2016 Tenuta Perano Rialzi Gran mature black-skinned fruit, tobacco and mocha. abv: 14% Price: $65 91 Selezione (Chianti Classico). Mature dark- The concentrated palate shows dried black cherry, skinned fruit, French oak, coconut and blue-flower clove and licorice alongside polished tannins. Enjoy Astorre Noti 2015 Fattoria di Ruppiano aromas are front and center on this 100% San- through 2027. Vos Vinum Importing. —K.O. 88 Gran Selezione (Chianti Classico). This has giovese. On the linear palate, vanilla, espresso and abv: 14.5% Price: $35 aromas of scorched earth, leather and black plum. licorice notes accent a core of black cherry and The solid, no-frills palate offers dried black cherry, blackberry extract. Assertive, close-grained tannins Volpaia 2017 Coltassala Gran Selezione clove and tobacco alongside smooth tannins. Drink provide the framework. It’s still very much on its 90 (Chianti­ Classico). Aromas of exotic spice, through 2023. Alma Wines. —K.O. oak and needs time to fully integrate. Drink 2024– dried aromatic herb, camphor and wood shop shape abv: 14.5% Price: $39 2031. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —K.O. the nose. The austere palate shows dried cherry, abv: 14% Price: $64 prune and licorice alongside close-grained tannins Cantalici 2016 Gran Selezione (Chianti Clas- that clench the lean finish. Give it a few more years 88 sico). Made with organically farmed San- Tenuta di Nozzole 2015 Gran Selezione (Chi- so the tannins can unwind then drink sooner rather giovese, this opens with aromas of espresso, toasted 91 anti Classico). Aromas of black plum, leather than later to capture the remaining fruit. Wilson oak and coconut. The dense palate offers roasted and cooking spice lead the nose. The concen- Daniels Ltd. —K.O. coffee bean, licorice and clove alongside assertive, trated, ripe palate offers blackberry jam, licorice abv: 13.5% Price: $80 drying tannins. Chigazola Merchants. —K.O. and tobacco alongside firm tannins. Drink through abv: 14.5% Price: $67 2025. Kobrand. —K.O. Bibbiano 2016 Vigna del Capannino Gran abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 89 Selezione (Chianti Classico). Subdued aro- Castello di Querceto 2017 La Corte Gran mas of tilled soil, French oak and roasted coffee 88 Selezione (Chianti Classico). This has a shy Tolaini 2016 Vigna Montebello Sette Gran bean slowly emerge from the glass. The dense palate nose that eventually reveals whiffs of leather and 91 Selezione (Chianti Classico). Aromas of plum, features prune, tobacco leaf and espresso alongside tobacco. The densely concentrated, fleshy palate underbrush, tobacco and French oak mingle with a fine-grained tannins. You’ll also notice the heat of is already accessible, featuring prune, blackberry whiff of violet. The enveloping palate features ripe evident alcohol that dominates the finish. Drink extract and licorice set against enveloping tannins. black cherry, roasted coffee bean and licorice along- through 2026. Massanois Imports. —K.O. Drink through 2022. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. side close-grained, drying tannins that clench the abv: 15% Price: $43 —K.O. finish. Drink 2021–2026. Banville Wine Merchants. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 —K.O. Casa di Monte 2012 Le Capitozze Gran Selezi- abv: 14.5% Price: $49 89 one (Chianti Classico). This opens with Castello di Radda 2015 Vigna Il Corno Gran aromas of mature dark-skinned berry, mocha and 88 Selezione (Chianti Classico). French oak,

82 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 coconut, eucalyptus and scorched earth aromas and focused. Drink 2022–2028. 8 Vini, Inc. Editors’ and tobacco alongside supple tannins. Fresh acidity form the nose. Showing the heat of the vintage, Choice. —K.O. keeps it balanced. Total Beverage Solution. —K.O. the densely concentrated palate offers prune, abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 roasted coffee bean and tobacco, alongside tightly knit, close-grained tannins. The warmth of evident Castello di Verrazzano 2016 Riserva (Chianti Aiola 2016 Riserva (Chianti Classico). Truffle, alcohol dominates the finish. Drink sooner rather 93 Classico). Full bodied and savory, this has 91 violet, mature black-skinned fruit, camphor than later to capture the remaining fruit richness. aromas of fruitcake, pipe tobacco, new leather and and oak-driven spice aromas come together in the Panebianco. —K.O. blue flower. Made with organically grown grapes, the glass. Vibrant and linear, the focused palate offers abv: 15% Price: $90 chewy, rounded palate doles out juicy black cherry, juicy Marasca cherry, orange zest, sage and star baked plum and licorice framed in velvety tannins. anise alongside lithe, fine-grained tannins that Livernano 2015 Casalvento Gran Selezi- Drink through 2024. Taub Family Selections. —K.O. leave a rather drying finish. Drink 2022–2026. Hill 88 one (Chianti Classico). This has aromas of abv: 14.5% Price: $40 City Imports. —K.O. coconut, mocha and French oak. On the tight pal- abv: 13.5% Price: $31 ate, assertive, grippy tannins accompany prune, Volpaia 2017 Riserva (Chianti Classico). espresso and sage. Drink through 2024. Amici 93 Aromas of blue flower, spiced plum, new Castello di Monterinaldi 2016 Riserva (Chianti Imports. —K.O. leather and sunbaked earth form the inviting nose 91 Classico). Aromas of leather, underbrush, abv: 14.5% Price: $NA on this pure Sangiovese. Made with organically camphor and dark spice form the nose. The medium- farmed grapes, the smooth, savory palate doles out bodied, firm palate shows prune, mature berry and Querceto di Castellina 2017 Sei Gran Selezione fleshy black cherry, baking spice and chopped mint tobacco alongside tightly knit, fine-grained tannins 88 (Chianti Classico). Aromas of French oak, alongside velvety tannins that give it a polished that leave a slightly grippy finish. Give it a few more coconut and camphor are front and center on this texture. Drink through 2025. Wilson Daniels Ltd. years to unwind. Drink 2022–2028. Bradley Alan 100% Sangiovese. Reflecting the nose, the assertive Editors’­ Choice. —K.O. Imports LLC. —K.O. palate shows raw wood, orange zest, prune and hints abv: 14% Price: $37 abv: 13.5% Price: $35 of exotic spice alongside grainy, drying tannins. Give the tannins a few more years to unwind then drink Fattoria La Ripa 2013 Riserva (Chianti Marchesi Antinori 2017 Tenuta Tignanello sooner rather than later before the remaining fruit 92 Classico).­ This 90% Sangiovese and 10% 91 Riserva (Chianti Classico). For full review see dries out. Vinity Wine Company. —K.O. Canaiolo blend offers enticing aromas of iris, red page 16. abv: 14% Price: $50 plum and underbrush. Made with organically grown abv: 14% Price: $45 grapes, the savory, fragrant palate offers raspberry Villa Trasqua 2012 Nerento Gran Selezione jam, white pepper, star anise and tobacco along- Villa Trasqua 2015 Riserva (Chianti Classico). 88 (Chianti Classico). Cedar, mocha and stewed side fine-grained tannins. Enjoy through 2028. 91 Underbrush, dark-skinned berry and bal- prune aromas lead the nose. The tight palate offers ­Tradizione Imports. —K.O. samic aromas come together in the glass along with blackberry jam, coconut and espresso alongside abv: 13.5% Price: $30 a whiff of tobacco. The juicy, balanced palate offers grainy tannins that leave a rather astringent fin- fleshy black cherry, licorice and chopped aromatic ish. Drink sooner rather than later to capture the Felsina 2017 Rancia Riserva (Chianti Classico). herb alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink through remaining fruit richness. Misa Imports. —K.O. 92 Balsamic aromas of camphor mingle with 2025. Misa Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $32 new leather, scorched earth, pressed blue flower abv: 14% Price: $23 and oak-driven spice. The firm, elegantly structured Viticcio 2016 Prunaio Gran Selezione (­Chianti palate features dried black cherry, licorice and Badia a Coltibuono 2016 Cultus Boni Riserva 88 Classico). Aromas of graphite, espresso, tobacco before a coffee bean close. Close-grained 90 (Chianti Classico). Aromas of exotic spice, black-skinned fruit lead the nose. The ripe pal- provide support, drying finish. Polaner Selections. eucalyptus, fruitcake and a whiff of wood shop ate features toasted notes, roasted coffee bean and —K.O. form the nose. On the full-bodied palate, firm, spiced plum alongside assertive, rather drying tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $60 fine-grained tannins accompany dried black cherry, nins. Drink 2021–2025. Serendipity Wines. —K.O. orange peel, ground pepper and licorice. It’s bal- abv: 14% Price: $NA Marchesi Antinori 2017 Villa Antinori Riserva anced, with bright acidity. Drink 2024–2030. Dalla 92 (Chianti Classico). For full review see page 14. Terra Winery Direct. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $35 abv: 14.5% Price: $36 CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA Ormanni 2016 Borro del Diavolo Riserva Cantalici 2015 Messer Ridolfo Riserva Cinciano 2016 Riserva (Chianti Classico). 92 (Chianti­ Classico). Brawny and envelop- 90 (Chianti­ Classico). Made with organically 94 Truffle, new leather, camphor and fragrant ing, this has aromas of fragrant purple flower, ripe grown Sangiovese, this offers aromas of new leather, purple flower are just some of the aromas you’ll find black-skinned fruit, underbrush and baking spice. ripe dark-skinned berry and mocha. The taut palate on this savory, full-bodied red. It’s concentrated The concentrated, chewy palate doles out juicy offers blackberry jam, licorice and vanilla alongside yet elegant, offering ripe black cherry, licorice and Marasca cherry, plum and blackberry jam accented fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2026.Chigazola ­ tobacco framed in noble, refined tannins. Fresh by vanilla and licorice. Enveloping, fine grained tan- Merchants. —K.O. acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2021–2026. Noble nins provide support while the warmth of alcohol abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Harvest, LLC. —K.O. lingers on the close. Virtuoso Selections. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $38 abv: 15% Price: $NA Casa al Vento 2016 Foho Riserva (Chianti 90 Classico). Underbrush, leather and a whiff Valiano 2016 Poggio Teo Riserva (Chianti Principe Corsini 2016 Villa Le Corti Cortevec- of game form the earthy nose. Racy and focused, the 94 Classico). Enticing scents of fragrant blue 92 chia Riserva (Chianti Classico). Aromas of linear palate offers red cherry, orange zest licorice flower, wild berry, camphor and dark spice take spiced plum, blue flower, botanical herb and a whiff and sage alongside grippy, grainy tannins that dry shape on this elegantly structured red. On the of cedar lift out of the glass. Made with organically out the finish. Classic Wines, Inc. —K.O. smooth, savory palate, supple tannins accompany farmed Sangiovese and 5% Colorino, the smooth, abv: 13.5% Price: $30 juicy Marasca cherry, raspberry compote, star anise savory palate features juicy Marasca cherry, licorice and baking spice. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced Castello di Albola 2017 Riserva (Chianti Clas- 90 sico). New leather, underbrush, balsamic

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BUYINGGUIDE notes of camphor and iris aromas meld together in soil and leather mingle with blue flower and ripe the framework. Drink through 2023. Vino Veritas. the glass. On the austere palate, close-grained, dry- plum. The juicy palate starts off with fleshy black- —K.O. ing tannins accompany dried cherry, blood orange cherry and baking-spice notes before close-grained abv: 13.5% Price: $NA and exotic spice alongside hints of bitter-almond tannins jump in and leave a drying finish. Drink and roasted coffee bean. 1821 Fine Wines & Spirits. through 2022. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —K.O. Casa Sola 2014 Riserva (Chianti Classico). —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $19 88 Subdued aromas suggesting damp earth, abv: 13.5% Price: $30 cooking spice and tobacco slowly emerge from the Castello La Leccia 2015 Giuliano Riserva glass. The straightforward palate offers black plum, Fattoria Montecchio 2016 Riserva (Chianti­ 89 (Chianti Classico). Aromas of black plum, espresso and clove alongside dusty tannins. Drink 90 Classico). Scents of forest-floor, wild-berry leather and underbrush shape the nose. Made with through 2024. The House of Burgundy. —K.O. and baking-spice mingle with a whiff of new leather organically grown Sangiovese and 2% Malvasia abv: 13.5% Price: $NA on this blend of 95% Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvi- Nera, the brawny, savory palate features dried black gnon and Alicante. The smooth, accessible palate cherry, clove and tobacco alongside dusty tannins. Castelvecchi 2016 Lodolaio Riserva (­Chianti offers juicy Morello cherry, cocoa and a dollop of You’ll also notice the heat of evident alcohol. Enjoy 88 Classico). Aromas suggesting French oak, espresso alongside buffed tannins. Drink through through 2025. Ideal Wine and Spirits. —K.O. coconut, menthol and blue flower lead the nose. 2024. Simone International. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $35 It’s medium bodied, offering flavors suggesting sour abv: 13.5% Price: $25 cherry, roasted coffee bean and powdered sage along- Lornano 2016 Riserva (Chianti Classico). side close-grained tannins that leave an astringent Lamole di Lamole 2016 Riserva (Chianti 89 Aromas of black-skinned berry, mocha and close. Serendipity Wine Imports. —K.O. 90 Classico). For full review see page 20. baking spice emerge from the glass. The firm palate abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $25 offers blackberry jam, licorice and clove alongside close-grained tannins. Drink through 2026. Regal Dievole 2017 Novecento Riserva (­Chianti Orsumella 2016 Corte Rizieri Riserva Wine Imports Inc. —K.O. 88 Classico). This opens with aromas of 90 (Chianti­ Classico). Black-skinned berry, abv: 14.5% Price: $25 scorched earth, tobacco leaf and a whiff of violet. toasted hazelnut and underbrush aromas lead The assertive palate offers mature black plum, lico- the nose. The juicy palate offers Marasca cherry, Panzanello 2016 1427 Riserva (Chianti Clas- rice and toasted hazelnut alongside dusty tannins. tobacco and clove alongside polished tannins. Drink 89 sico). A blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Drink through 2024. de Grazia Imports, LLC. —K.O. through 2026. WineMakers Import. —K.O. Cabernet Sauvignon, this brawny red has aromas abv: 14% Price: $50 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA of black plum, scorched earth and roasted coffee bean. The dense palate shows dried black cherry, Tenuta di Lilliano 2017 Riserva (Chianti Clas- Riecine 2017 Riserva (Chianti Classico). star anise and espresso alongside polished tan- 88 sico). Aromas of mature dark-skinned fruit, 90 Aromas of ripe plum, pine forest, exotic nins. You’ll also notice the heat of evident alcohol. sunbaked soil and roasted coffee bean emerge from spice and cedar slowly appear in the glass. Bold Drink through 2027. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. the glass. The linear palate offers blackberry jam, and brawny, the palate offers cherry marinated in —K.O. vanilla and espresso alongside dusty tannins. Drink spirits, prune and licorice alongside velvety, close- abv: 15% Price: $35 through 2023. Vos Vinum Importing. —K.O. grained tannins. You’ll also notice the warmth abv: 14.5% Price: $30 of evident alcohol on the close. Soilair Selection. Barone Ricasoli 2018 Brolio (Chianti Clas- —K.O. 88 sico). Red-berry, menthol and espresso aro- Vignamaggio 2016 Gherardino Riserva abv: 15% Price: $40 mas mingle together in the glass. It’s taut and racy, 88 (Chianti­ Classico). The initially shy nose with flavors suggesting sour cherry, botanical herb eventually releases suggestions of star anise, for- Bibbiano 2017 Riserva (Chianti Classico). and a hint of star anise set against fine-grained tan- est floor and prune. The aromas carry over to the 89 This opens with aromas of mocha, French nins and an acidic backbone. Drink through 2023. ­equally subdued palate along with grainy, rather oak and ripe black plum. The concentrated palate Folio Fine Wine Partners. —K.O. fleeting tannins. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. offers blackberry jam, sage and licorice alongside abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 dusty tannins. Enjoy through 2026. Massanois ­Imports. —K.O. Bindi Sergardi 2015 I Colli Riserva (Chianti Viticcio 2016 Riserva (Chianti Classico). This abv: 14.5% Price: $31 88 Classico). Aromas of black plum, leather 88 opens with aromas of black plum, roasted and ground clove emerge from the glass. The ripe coffee bean and a whiff of toasted oak. The chewy Cantalici 2016 Baruffo Riserva (Chianti Clas- palate offers blackberry jam, star anise and vanilla palate offers prune, espresso and star anise alongside 89 sico). Made with organically grown Sangio- set alongside close-grained tannins. Drink through tightly knit tannins. Drink 2021–2025. Serendipity vese, this has aromas of dark-skinned fruit, mocha 2024. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —K.O. Wines. —K.O. and baking spice. The firm palate offers ripe black abv: 14.5% Price: $43 abv: 14% Price: $NA plum, licorice and espresso alongside dusty tannins. Drink through 2025. Chigazola Merchants. —K.O. Carobbio 2015 Riserva (Chianti Classico). Casale dello Sparviero 2016 Riserva (Chianti abv: 14.5% Price: $36 88 Aromas of coconut, baking spice and toasted­ 87 Classico). Aromas of toasted oak, mocha and oak lead the nose. The tight palate offers blackberry underbrush emerge from the glass. On the dense pal- Castello di Monsanto 2017 Riserva (Chianti jam, espresso and powdered sage alongside assertive ate, drying but fleeting tannins accompany prune, 89 Classico). Aromas of spearmint, toasted tannins. Drink through 2024. Alarich Distributing. orange rind and roasted coffee bean. PSP Imports. oak and a whiff of blue flower form the nose. The —K.O. —K.O. chewy, fleshy palate is already accessible, offering abv: 14.5% Price: $38 abv: 14.5% Price: $26 blackberry extract, licorice and espresso alongside fine-grained, drying tannins. Drink through 2022. Casa di Monte 2013 Le Capitozze Riserva Tenuta di Arceno 2017 Riserva (Chianti Freixenet Mionetto USA. —K.O. 88 (Chianti Classico). Aromas of coconut, 87 Classico).­ Aromas of toasted oak and ­espresso abv: 14% Price: $29 espresso and prune carry over to the tight palate dominate the opening. The dense palate offers prune, along with blackberry extract, roasted coffee bean roasted coffee bean and dried orange slice alongside Castello di Querceto 2017 Riserva (Chianti and powdered sage. Close-grained tannins provide 89 Classico). Earthy aromas of truffle, tilled

84 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 assertive tannins that lead to a mouthdrying finish. Dievole 2016 Vigna di Sessina (Chianti coffee. Supple tannins and fresh acidity keep it bal- Drink through 2023. Jackson Family Wines. —K.O. 92 Classico).­ Enticing aromas of violet, tobacco anced. Drink through 2024. 8 Vini, Inc. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 and new leather lead the nose. The savory, balanced abv: 13.5% Price: $25 palate features black cherry, raspberry jam, star Geografico 2017 Borgo alla Terra Riserva anise and white pepper alongside fine-grained tan- Riecine 2018 Chianti Classico. Dark-spice, 86 (Chianti Classico). This has a shy nose that nins and firm acidity. Enjoy through 2029. de Grazia 90 toasted nut, blue-flower and camphor aro- suggests mature black-skinned fruit and a hint of ­Imports, LLC. —K.O. mas waft out of the glass. Round and savory, the leather. The dense, simple palate offers blackberry abv: 13.5% Price: $60 chewy palate doles out ripe black cherry, star anise extract and a hint of spice. Drink now. 8 Vini, Inc. and coffee bean alongside supple tannins. Drink —K.O. Isole e Olena 2017 Chianti Classico. Aromas of through 2023. Soilair Selection. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $16 91 underbrush, violet, toasted nut and camphor abv: 14% Price: $25 lift out of the glass. Showing the heat of the vintage, the palate features prune, dried cherry, espresso San Fabiano Calcinaia 2018 Chianti Classico. CHIANTI CLASSICO and hazelnut alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink 90 Made with organically farmed 90% San- through 2023. Chambers & Chambers. —K.O. giovese, 5% Canaiolo and 5% Malvasia Nera, this Vecchie Terre di Montefili 2017 Chianti abv: 14% Price: $29 opens with pretty aromas of violet, Mediterranean 94 Classico.­ This has aromas of scorched earth, brush and nutmeg. The savory palate offers black toasted nut and eucalyptus. The lean palate sug- Carobbio 2016 Chianti Classico. Made cherry, mocha and tobacco alongside fine-grained gests prune, blood orange and bitter walnut along- 90 e­ntirely with Sangiovese, this opens with tannins. Drink through 2027. Matchvino. —K.O. side unripe tannins. You’ll also note a green note aromas of violet, black-skinned berry and Mediter- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 suggesting powdered sage on the abrupt, astringent ranean brush. The juicy palate offers black cherry, finish. Domenico Valentino. —K.O. star anise, clove and white pepper alongside velvety Castello di Bossi 2017 Chianti Classico. abv: 13% Price: $30 tannins. Drink through 2025. Alarich Distributing. 89 ­Aromas of wild berry, iris and botanical —K.O. herb lead the nose. On the chewy, accessible palate, Fontodi 2017 Vigna del Sorbo (Chianti Clas- abv: 14% Price: $24 supple tannins accompany ripe Marasca cherry, ripe 93 sico). Made entirely with organically culti- plum and baking spice. Drink through 2022. LLS– vated Sangiovese, this bold red has aromas of baked Castello di Monsanto 2018 Chianti Classico. Winebow. —K.O. plum, pipe tobacco, new leather and French oak. 90 Red-berry, blue-flower and tilled earth aro- abv: 14.5% Price: $23 The full-bodied palate is concentrated yet weight- mas waft out of the glass. On the juicy palate, bright less, delivering black cherry extract, blackberry, lic- acidity and polished tannins accompany Marasca Dievole 2018 Chianti Classico. Made with orice and espresso. Close-grained, velvety tannins cherry, orange zest and a hint of aniseed. Drink 89 90% Sangiovese, 7% Canaiolo and 3% Col- provide the tight framework. Drink 2022–2027. through 2023. Freixenet Mionetto USA. —K.O. orino, all organically farmed, this has aromas of red- Vinifera Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $20 skinned berry, leather and underbrush. The bright abv: 15% Price: $NA palate shows raspberry jam, cinnamon and white Castello La Leccia 2017 Chianti Classico. pepper alongside smooth tannins and fresh acidity. Istine 2018 Vigna Casanova dell’Aia (Chianti 90 Made with organically farmed Sangio- Drink through 2025. de Grazia Imports, LLC. —K.O. 93 Classico). Made entirely with Sangiovese, vese, this opens with aromas reminiscent of black- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 this has energizing aromas of crushed mint, cedar,­ skinned berry, scorched earth and leather. The juicy rose and tilled earth. Vibrant and focused, the struc- palate offers blueberry, star anise and cinnamon Mazzei 2018 Fonterutoli (Chianti Classico). tured palate delivers juicy black cherry, ripe plum alongside polished tannins and firm acidity. Drink 89 The shy nose eventually reveals plum, blue and baking spice alongside taut, fine-grained tan- through 2027. Ideal Wine and Spirits. —K.O. flower and earthy whiffs of truffle and damp soil. nins. It finishes on a licorice note. Give it a few more abv: 14.5% Price: $18 The straightforward, subtle palate is between light years to fully develop. Drink 2023–2028. Oliver and medium bodied, suggesting sour cherry and star ­McCrum Wines. —K.O. Cinciano 2017 Chianti Classico. Aromas of anise alongside dusty tannins. It closes on a coffee- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 90 crushed aromatic herb, incense and sun- bean note. Drink through 2022. Taub Family Selec- baked earth meld with violet on this 100% Sangio- tions. —K.O. Istine 2018 Vigna Cavarchione (Chianti Clas- vese. The full-bodied, savory palate delivers exotic abv: 13.5% Price: $30 93 sico). Aromas of forest floor, blue flower, spice, dried cherry and licorice alongside taut, leather and pipe tobacco shape the nose. The firm refined tannins. Drink through 2025. Noble Har- Tenuta di Lilliano 2018 Chianti Classico. Red- palate is youthfully austere, featuring Marasca vest, LLC. —K.O. 89 skinned berry, Mediterranean brush and ­cherry, orange zest, licorice and botanical herb abv: 14.5% Price: $26 cooking-spice aromas emerge from the glass. The framed in tightly knit, close-grained tannins that juicy, straightforward palate doles out red cherry, grip the finish. Vibrant acidity provides balance. Fattoria La Ripa 2017 Chianti Classico. Made star anise and white pepper alongside polished tan- Needs time. Drink 2025–2033. Oliver McCrum 90 with 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo, nins. Drink through 2024. Vos Vinum Importing. Wines. Cellar Selection. —K.O. both organically farmed, this opens with aromas —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 of black-skinned berry, Mediterranean brush and abv: 14.5% Price: $19 sunbaked earth. The juicy palate offers dried black Castello di Verrazzano 2017 Chianti Classico. cherry, tobacco and licorice alongside polished Villa Trasqua 2016 Chianti Classico. Made 92 Made with organically grown grapes, this tannins. Drink through 2027. Tradizione Imports. 89 with organically grown grapes, Sangiovese, delicious red has aromas suggesting underbrush, —K.O. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this opens with blue flower, eucalyptus and mature black-skinned abv: 13.5% Price: $22 aromas of red-skinned berry, Mediterranean brush fruit. The smooth, chewy palate shows ripe Marasca and leather. The juicy palate offers tart cherry, cherry, black plum licorice and hazelnut. Taut, fine- Geografico 2016 Contessa di Radda (Chianti tobacco leaf and botanical herb alongside polished grained tannins provide the framework and gener- 90 Classico). Lithe and polished, this has aro- tannins and bright acidity. Enjoy through 2024. ate a rather drying finish. Taub Family Selections. mas of red berry, wild rose, menthol and a whiff of Misa Imports. —K.O. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. nutmeg. The savory, medium-bodied palate offers abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $24 juicy Marasca cherry, baking spice and a hint of

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BUYINGGUIDE

Brancaia 2018 Chianti Classico. Aromas of Panzanello 2018 Chianti Classico. Ripe form the delicate nose. Light bodied and easy drink- 88 toasted hazelnut, underbrush and roasted 88 black-plum, underbrush and menthol ing, the fresh palate offers red cherry and the barest coffee bean follow over to the palate, along with aromas shape the nose. The forward palate offers hints of baking spice alongside dusty tannins. Opici prune and aniseed. Close-grained tannins sneak up blackberry jam, star anise and a hint of vanilla Wines. —K.O. on the end and leave a drying finish. E. & J. Gallo. alongside smooth tannins. Drink through 2024. abv: 13% Price: $18 —K.O. ­Selected ­Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 15% Price: $18 Casa Sola 2017 Chianti Classico. Aromas sug- 87 gesting prune, camphor and new l­eather Brancaia 2016 Chianti Classico. Made with Panzanello 2018 1427 (Chianti Classico). form the subtle nose. Showing the heat of the 88 Sangiovese and 20% Merlot, this shows 88 Black-skinned berry, toasted hazelnut and scorching vintage, the medium-boded palate offers aromas ripe dark-skinned fruit, roasted coffee bean roasted coffee-bean aromas shape the nose. The dried cherry, ground clove and a hint of coffee bean and toasted oak. The taut palate presents prune, easygoing palate shows ripe black plum, vanilla alongside close-grained, drying tannins. The House espresso and powdered sage alongside assertive and mocha alongside dusty tannins. Drink through of Burgundy. —K.O. tannins that lead to a mouthpuckering finish. Drink 2023. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $NA through 2024. E. & J. Gallo. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Castelli del Grevepesa 2017 Castelgreve Piemaggio 2016 Le Fioraie (Chianti C­lassico). 87 (Chianti­ Classico). This easygoing red has Cantalici 2017 Baruffo (Chianti Classico). 88 Leather, underbrush and mature dark- subtle aromas of wild berry and a hint of tobacco. 88 Aromas of mature black-skinned fruit, skinned berry aromas form the nose. On the smooth, On the straightforward palate, dusty, somewhat menthol, French oak and blue flower come to the easygoing palate, buffed tannins accompany mature drying tannins accompany dried cherry and a touch forefront. Made with organically farmed Sangio- plum and baking spice notes. Drink soon. Rinasci- of baking spice. Drink soon. Votto Vines Importing. vese, the full-bodied, evolved palate shows the mento Wine. —K.O. —K.O. heat of the vintage, offering dried cherry, prune abv: 13.5% Price: $29 abv: 13.5% Price: $26 and roasted coffee bean while close-grained tannins leave a drying close. Chigazola Merchants. —K.O. Rocca delle Macìe 2018 Famiglia Zingarelli Castello di Albola 2018 Chianti Classico. abv: 14.5% Price: $27 88 (Chianti Classico). Aromas of fragrant blue 87 ­Vinous aromas of just-pressed grapes mingle flower, botanical herb and red berry lift out of the with red berry and blue flower on this tangy red. Casa di Monte 2016 Le Capitozze (Chianti glass. It’s fresh and easy drinking, offering sour The easygoing palate offers sour cherry and ground 88 Classico). Mocha, vanilla and a hint of cherry and hints of spice alongside lithe tannins. clove alongside bright acidity and light tannins. ­violet lead the nose. The taut palate features clove, Palm Bay International. —K.O. Drink through 2022. 1821 Fine Wines & Spirits. espresso and black plum alongside assertive tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 —K.O. nins. Drink through 2024. Vino Veritas. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $19 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Rocca di Castagnoli 2018 Chianti Classico. 88 A blend of 90% Sangiovese with Canaiolo Castello Vicchiomaggio 2018 Guado Alto Casale dello Sparviero 2017 Chianti Classico. and Colorino, all organically farmed, this has aro- 87 (Chianti Classico). Blue-flower, wild-berry 88 This has aromas suggesting dark-skinned mas of violet, toasted nut, forest floor and wild and damp soil aromas form the nose. The zesty, fruit, scorched earth and leather. The straightfor- berry. On the fresh palate, dusty tannins accompany straightforward palate suggests sour cherry and ward palate offers ripe black plum, star anise and juicy Marasca cherry, espresso and hints of baking star anise alongside dusty tannins before closing toasted hazelnut alongside smooth tannins. Drink spice. Drink through 2022. Coeur Wine Co. —K.O. on a tinny note. Drink through 2022. FX Magner through 2024. PSP Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Selection. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 14% Price: $24 Villa Rosa 2017 Ribaldoni (Chianti Classico). Il Poggiolino 2017 Il Classico (Chianti Clas- 88 Aromas of roasted coffee bean, vanilla and Il Molino di Grace 2017 Chianti Classico. This 88 sico). Aromas of underbrush, grilled herb cooking spice lead the nose. The dense palate shows 87 has aromas of toasted oak, sunbaked earth and blue flower shape the nose. On the easygoing clove, espresso and dried blackberry alongside and hints of grilled herb. It shows the heat of the palate, dusty, rather drying tannins accompany ripe close-grained tannins. Drink through 2024. Volio scorching vintage, with flavors of prune and dried black cherry and spiced plum. Drink through 2022. Vino. —K.O. cherry accented by roasted coffee-bean notes. MHW, Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Grainy, drying tannins leave a lean, astringent finish.­ abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. Aiola 2017 Chianti Classico. This opens with abv: 14% Price: $20 Livernano 2015 Chianti Classico. Prune, 87 aromas of scorched earth, underbrush, 88 leather and espresso aromas form the sub- grilled herb and prune. On the palate, dusty, drying Lecci e Brocchi 2018 Ragonaia (Chianti dued nose. The medium-bodied palate offers dried tannins accompany dried cherry and roasted coffee 87 Classico).­ Aromas of toasted oak and roasted black cherry, star anise and vanilla alongside close- bean before leaving a grippy, astringent close. Hill nut follow over to the light-bodied palate along with grained tannins. Drink sooner rather than later to City Imports. —K.O. mature plum and orange rind. Dusty, fleeting tan- capture the remaining fruit. Amici Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 nins leave a rather short, drying close. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Cantalici 2016 Chianti Classico. Botani- Nittardi 2018 Casanuova di Nittardi Vigna 87 cal herb, leather, truffle and plum aromas Livernano 2015 Casalvento (Chianti ­Classico). 88 Doghessa (Chianti Classico). Blue-flower, meld with a hint of blue flower. Made with organic 87 Aromas of ripe black-skinned fruit, scorched plum and menthol aromas form the nose. The grapes, the straightforward palate offers prune and earth and roasted coffee bean lead the nose. The ­medium-bodied palate offers tart sour cherry, pow- tobacco alongside dusty tannins. Chigazola Mer- straightforward palate shows ripe black plum, clove dered sage and aniseed alongside grainy tannins chants. —K.O. and mocha alongside chewy tannins. Drink through that leave a firm, astringent finish. Misa Imports. abv: 14.5% Price: $27 2023. Amici Imports. —K.O. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $NA Carpineto 2018 Chianti Classico. Aromas of 87 blue flower, botanical herb and wild berry

86 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Lornano 2017 Chianti Classico. This has Lecci e Brocchi 2017 Chianti Classico. Leather, freshly pressed cherries and ­blackberries—stems 87 subdued, earthy aromas suggesting leather, 86 scorched earth, violet and overripe plum and all. While the fruit is intense and concentrated, grilled Porcini mushroom, ripe berry and a whiff aromas form the nose. It’s rather light bodied, offer- there’s are earthy base notes of herbs and bramble of violet. Showing the heat of the vintage, it’s full ing suggestions of prune, ground clove and a tinny that tie it all together. It’s full, yet fresh on the pal- bodied, warm and evolved, with flavors reminiscent note alongside dusty tannins that leave a fleeting, ate, showing amazing purity to the berry-fruit fla- of dried cherry, prune and coffee bean set against mouthdrying finish. —K.O. vors. Slicks of crushed stone and herbs keep this drying tannins that leave an astringent finish. Regal abv: 13.5% Price: $20 lifted and energized. This is an excellent offering Wine Imports Inc. —K.O. from an estate winery located in the Pescara­ prov- abv: 14.5% Price: $17 Tenuta di Arceno 2018 Chianti Classico. This ince of Abruzzo. Drink now–2021. The Sorting 86 has aromas of mocha, toasted oak and tan- Table. Editors’ Choice. —A.P. Melini 2017 Terrarossa (Chianti Classico). gerine zest. The assertive, monolithic palate shows abv: 14% Price: $18 87 Aromas of wild berry and dark spice waft raisin, roasted coffee bean and a green note of pow- out of the glass. The straightforward palate suggests dered sage alongside raspy tannins and the heat of Illuminati 2019 Lumeggio di Rosa (Cera- dried cherry, orange peel, clove and powdered sage evident alcohol. Despite the bold tannins, drink 91 suolo d’Abruzzo). This rich wine is an excel- alongside dusty, drying tannins. Frederick Wildman sooner rather than later to capture what little fruit lent example of the Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo style. It’s & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. there is. Jackson Family Wines. —K.O. rounded and ripe in a red-cherry flavor, with a abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 15% Price: $25 textural, gripping mouthfeel that’s cleaned up by tangy acidity and crushed stone. It’s a wine to enjoy Podere La Cappella 2018 Chianti Classico.­ Castello di Querceto 2018 Chianti Classico. year-round, but could be a great choice as a winter- 87 This has aromas reminiscent of dark-skinned 85 Aromas of red berry lead the nose on this time rosato. Drink through 2021. Montcalm Wine fruit, tilled earth and mocha. The dense palate sug- easygoing red. The light-bodied, simple palate sug- Importers. —A.P. gests prune, sage and roasted coffee bean alongside gests juicy red cherry and the barest hint of ground abv: 13% Price: $20 solid tannins. Drink through 2023. ­Artisan Wines, clove alongside dusty, not very persistent tannins. Inc. —K.O. Drink soon. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —K.O. Valentini 2018 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo. Pretty abv: 14.5% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $11 91 closed upon opening, this needs some time to stitch together, so decant or enjoy leisurely over a Poggio ai Mandorli 2017 Chianti Classico. long meal. Tight aromas of pomegranate, coriander 87 Aromas of dark-skinned fruit and cooking CHIANTI COLLI SENESI seed and red currant slowly unfurl on the nose. The spice emerge from the glass. The straightforward ­medium-bodied palate displays a mix of textures palate offers ripe black plum, orange peel and sage Geografico 2019 Borgo alla Terra (Chianti Colli and flavors, from smooth raspberry and racy pome- alongside smooth tannins. Vi. Sco., Inc. —K.O. 87 Senesi). Aromas of ripe red fruit and baking granate, to powdered white pepper and slick wet abv: 13.5% Price: $30 spice follow over to the easygoing palate along with stones. The alcohol shows its face a bit, but it’s well a hint of orange rind. It’s already drinkable with compensated for by the detail of flavor and texture. Rocca delle Macìe 2017 Tenuta Sant’Alfonso lithe tannins and bright acidity. 8 Vini, Inc. —K.O. Jan D’Amore Wines. —A.P. 87 (Chianti Classico). Camphor, underbrush abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $130 and graphite aromas form the nose. On the subdued, straightforward palate, dusty tannins accompany Annona 2018 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo. A bit suggestions of prune and espresso before an abrupt, CERASUOLO D’ABRUZZO 90 closed upon opening, after time this offers drying finish. Palm Bay International. —K.O. a pretty nose of juiced raspberry and cranberry, abv: 14.5% Price: $24 Amorotti 2017 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo. This with orchard blossoms chiming in. A gentle, tannic 93 stand-out Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo starts off grip on the palate comes off like red-apple peel and Villa La Pagliaia 2018 Chianti Classico. This with an engaging nose of fresh-pressed cherry, cranberry skins, while a fresh, lifted tone of river 87 easygoing red has delicate aromas suggest- lemon oil and crushed herbs on the nose. An earthy, rocks gives this pink wine vitality. Enjoy with a bit ing red berry and tilled soil. On the fresh palate, brambly base note underpins it all. There’s weight, of a decant alongside poultry and veggie roasts on relaxed tannins lightly support sour cherry and a presence and grip to the palate, driven by pulsing a crisp autumn evening. Drink through 2021. Third hint of aniseed. Drin through 2023. Vision Wine & flavors of Morello cherry and red currant. Gentle Leaf Wines. —A.P. Spirits. —K.O. tones of rooibos and crushed stone add depth and abv: 12.5% Price: $22 abv: 13% Price: $15 lift to this textural beauty. Drink now–2022. Jan D’Amore Wines. —A.P. Cantina Tollo 2019 Hedòs (Cerasuolo Viticcio 2017 Chianti Classico. Aromas of abv: 13.5% Price: $35 90 d’Abruzzo). Perfumed aromas of apple blos- 87 toast, dark-skinned fruit and mocha emerge som and cherry carry the delightfully floral nose. from the glass. The easygoing palate offers black Francesco Cirelli 2017 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo. The palate is smooth and inviting, offering a tasty plum, clove and vanilla alongside smooth tannins. 92 This textural pink wine was fermented mix of apple peel and tangy raspberry flavors. A bit Serendipity Wines. —K.O. with indigenous yeast in amphora, giving it a bit of cherry-cocktail bitters adds some grip, but inte- abv: 14% Price: $NA of a wild edge. Concentrated aromas of dark cherry grates nicely into the fruit. Drink through 2021. and blackberry meld with accents of rooibos and Vino Veritas. —A.P. La Casa di Bricciano 2016 Chianti Classico. crushed stone on the nose. The medium-bodied pal- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 86 Earthy aromas of leather and truffle lead ate is rounded yet energized, with no harsh edges. the nose along with whiffs of ground clove, ripe Detailed tones of wild berries are lifted by persis- Cataldi Madonna 2019 Malandrino (Cera- plum and violet. The palate is less expressive than tent acidity and framed by crunchy tannins. It’s a 90 suolo d’Abruzzo). Aromas of crushed lime- the nose and already somewhat evolved, offering delicious pink wine to enjoy in the cooler months of stone, red-cherry skin and blood-orange rind make suggestions of dried cherry, espresso and a green the year. Drink now–2022. Zev Rovine Selections. an engaging, fresh start to this pink wine made from note of powdered sage alongside close-grained, —A.P. organically grown . The medium-­ drying tannins that leave an astringent and rather abv: 13% Price: $20 bodied palate boasts tart red-berry, orange and abrupt finish. European Wine Imports. —K.O. herbal spice notes that are wrapped in a gentle tan- abv: 13% Price: $20 Tiberio 2019 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo. This richly­ 92 hued pink wine starts off with a nose of

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BUYINGGUIDE nic frame. Drink through 2021. Vias Imports. Best Valle Reale 2018 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo. Aromas iodine are at the fore of the nose, leading to a pal- Buy. —A.P. 87 of pressed raspberry and cranberry meld ate that’s more giving in its rich black-plum and abv: 13% Price: $15 with a gentle herbal tone on the nose. The red-berry dark-berry flavors. Rich fruit and dark cocoa tones flavors are brisk and bouncy on the palate, with dominate the palate, all wrapped in a firm coating of Cirelli la Collina Biologica 2018 Cerasuolo lifted acidity pushing them along to a mild, yeasty tannins and juicy acidity. Warm spice flavors feel a 90 d’Abruzzo. Rich aromas of juicy red cherry finish. Winebow. —A.P. bit heavy on the robust finish. Gonzalez Byass USA. and cranberry carry meld with an accent of bal- abv: 12.5% Price: $16 —A.P. samic-dripped herbs. Medium to full in feel, the abv: 14.5% Price: $45 palate is broad yet tangy, honed by impressions of crushed stone and red-berry­ skins. It’s a fun wine to OTHER ROSATOS Vespa 2017 Raccontami (Primitivo di Man- geek out over, especially for it’s texture. Drink in the 88 duria). Aromas of tar and iodine are domi- near term. Zev Rovine Selections. —A.P. Il Feuduccio Di S. Maria D’Orni 2019 Fonte nant on the nose, with hints of violet and peppery abv: 12% Price: $18 86 Venna Rosato (Terre di Chieti). Aromas of spice chiming in. The full-bodied palate brings wild thyme and sage carry the herbal-driven nose. robust flavors of plum and blackberry jam, sup- Masciarelli 2019 Villa Gemma Superiore The palate is more expressive in flavors of tart red ported by burly tannins and firm acidity. It feels 90 (Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo). This vibrantly hued cherry and crushed limestone. It shows good lift gripping and mouthcoating, but the fruit is nice and cherry-red Cerasuolo kicks off with brisk aromas thanks to vibrant acidity, with a pomegranate-laden rich. Ethica Wines. —A.P. of red-apple peel and Morello cherry, underpinned finish marking the brisk close. Empson USA Ltd. abv: 15.5% Price: $55 by a soft washed cheese-rind note. The palate is —A.P. rounded and well integrated, echoing the fruit tones abv: 13% Price: $15 of the nose and lifted by tangy crushed stone. A bit SUSUMANIELLO tightly coiled now, this will be an enjoyable pour in Masciarelli 2019 Rosato (Colline Teatine). the winter and spring months of 2021. Vintus LLC. 86 Shy aromas of banana, guava and blood Masseria Li Veli 2018 Askos Susumaniello —A.P. orange carry the delicate nose. The medium-bodied 90 (Salento). Pretty aromas of violet, rasp- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 palate boasts tart flavors of melon and citrus, ending berry and blackberry carry to the light, fresh palate. brisk on a slightly candied tone. Vintus LLC. —A.P. This shows juicy fruit flavors struck against a solid Illuminati 2019 Campirosa (Cerasuolo abv: 13% Price: $14 structure, making this a great red to enjoy as the 89 d’Abruzzo). This entry-level Cerasuolo weather turns slightly cooler. Dalla Terra Winery d’Abruzzo is a very good example of the style at an Direct. —A.P. attractive price. A rounded palate boasts flavors of PUGLIA abv: 14.5% Price: $21 balsamic-dipped cherries and crushed limestone, with a gentle, gripping mouthfeel akin to freshly PRIMITIVO Tagaro 2015 U’Cucci Susumaniello (Valle pressed cranberry juice. It ends brisk and tangy. 90 d’Itria). Opaque ruby in color, this red Montcalm Wine Importers. Best Buy. —A.P. Ronco di Sassi 2016 Riserva (Primitivo di starts off with quiet aromas of black grape and abv: 13% Price: $14 90 Manduria). This rich, enveloping wine ­iodine, but becomes more expressive in a ground melds savory, spicy accents of tobacco and black coffee tone as it sits. It’s smooth and rich in feel, Tenuta I Fauri 2019 Baldovino (Cerasuolo pepper with a dense dark-berry and plum core. It’s filled out by thick-skinned dark-berry and plum 89 d’Abruzzo). Rich red-cherry in color, this suave and seductive on the palate, with polished flavors framed by peppery tannins and balanced Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is inviting in aromas of fresh- tannins and lifted acidity lending structure to the acidity. It’s a bold, gripping red that would do well pressed Morello cherries, with flecks of warm spices rich fruit. For those looking for a comforting red to beside a hearty protein. Eagle Spirits Imports and and earthy rooibos. The medium-bodied palate is enjoy in the cooler months of the year, this fits the Exports. —A.P. fleshy and rounded, driven by a tart cherry flavor bill. Votto Vines Importing. —A.P. abv: 14% Price: $20 and spritzy acidity. A persistent cocktail-bitters note abv: 14.5% Price: $50 arises on the midpalate and extends on the finish. Tenute Rubino 2018 Oltremé Susumaniello Wineberry America LLC. —A.P. Tagaro 2017 Muso Rosso Collection (Primi- 89 (Brindisi). There’s a brambly, spicy edge to abv: 13.5% Price: $15 90 tivo di Manduria). Toasty spice notes are the enticing raspberry and blackberry aromas in prominent on the nose, riding over a rich dark-fruit this wine. The palate is plush and rounded, filled Talamonti 2019 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo. Brisk core. This red is rounded and plush in feel, with out by juicy berry flavors that are framed by gentle 88 aromas of blood orange, red cherry and soft, pliant tannins lending just enough support to tannins and lifted acidity. This is a young, fresh, potpourri carry the nose. The medium-bodied pal- the dense dark-cherry and plum flavors. Accents of easygoing wine that will please many with its acces- ate follows suit, with a slightly tangy wet stone anise and vanilla add interest and give this wine lots sible style. Soilair Selection. —A.P. note chiming in. This is a tasty, straightforward of appeal. Eagle Spirits Imports and Exports. —A.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA pink wine that should be enjoyed in the near term. abv: 15% Price: $20 Panebianco. Best Buy. —A.P. Schola Sarmenti 2017 Antièri Susumaniello abv: 13% Price: $13 Varvaglione 2016 Papale Oro (Primitivo 88 (Salento). This rich, sultry red offers aromas 89 di Manduria). A rich nose of black plum, of dark cocoa, toasted anise and chocolate-covered­ Il Feuduccio Di S. Maria D’Orni 2019 Cerasuolo blackberry and tilled earth mixes with an orange- cherries that carry to the rounded palate. A bit of 87 d’Abruzzo. A relatively quiet nose of red- spice accent in this wine. The medium-bodied pal- fiery Bourbon spice kicks in on the midpalate, but apple peel and crushed raspberry starts this off. The ate is driven by flavors of juicy plum and dark berry, is tamed come the finish. Massanois Imports. —A.P. light-bodied palate is zesty in feel, driven by a tart pushed along by lifted acidity and a slight saline abv: 15% Price: $31 red-cherry flavor that’s held in check by a mild grip note. The tannins are soft and mellow but support- of tannins. Acidity is the main driver here, mak- ive, playing well alongside the rich fruit and warm Tenute Rubino 2017 Oltremè Susumaniello ing this a bright, crisp offering to enjoy in the near spice tones. WinesU. —A.P. 87 (Salento). Aromas of rubber, toasted anise term. Empson USA Ltd. —A.P. abv: 14% Price: $27 and black raspberry carry the nose. The palate is abv: 13% Price: $19 fruity and forward, with slightly jammy flavors of Vigneti del Salento 2016 Leggenda Vigne blackberries and bursting plum. It’s mellow and soft 89 Vecchie (Primitivo di Manduria). Tar and

88 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 in feel, with plenty of acidity lending support. Soilair berry and blackberry, with accents of sweet hay alongside accents of crushed black pepper and Selection. —A.P. and tobacco. It’s rounded and soft on the palate, dried herbs. Firmly medium in weight, the palate abv: 13.5% Price: $NA displaying lightly concentrated flavors of cranberry offers ripe berry-fruit flavors against a backdrop and raspberry framed by mellow tannins and lifted of granite and spice. Well-structured tannins give Cantine Menhir 2019 Pietra Susumaniello acidity. Francoli USA. —A.P. it a firm feel, but lifted acidity and rounded fruit 86 (Salento). This simplistic red starts off abv: 13% Price: $14 lend plenty of balance in this attractively priced red. with aromas of violet and black grape. Jammy fruit Ste. ­Michelle Wine Estates. Best Buy. —A.P. flavors are wrapped in firm acidity, with mellow Claudio Quarta 2018 Sud del Sud (Puglia). A abv: 14% Price: $12 tannins giving it a soft, rounded feel. Francoli USA. 87 blend of 35% Primitivo, 35% Negroamaro, —A.P. 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot and Claudio Quarta 2017 Tenute Eméra Anima abv: 13.5% Price: $19 10% Shiraz, this red starts off with aromas of tar, 87 di Negroamaro (Lizzano). Dense aromas of jammy red fruit and peppery spices. There’s a pleas- baked plum, fig and blackberry carry the rich nose. Tenute Rubino 2016 Torre Testa Susumani- ing roundness and suppleness to the palate where The palate is driven by jammy black-fruit flavors, 86 ello (Salento). This rich wine gushes in juicy red fruit plays alongside tar and warm spices. with plenty of lifted acidity to keep it fresh. The tan- tones of crushed black grapes, blackberry and vio- Gentle tannins frame it all, with balanced acidity nins are firm and a bit sandy, but are a fine match let. It’s sultry and dense on the palate, offering grip- lending lift. Enotec Imports, Inc. —A.P. for the rich fruit flavors. Enotec Imports, Inc. —A.P. ping flavors of thick-skinned dark fruit framed by abv: 14% Price: $23 abv: 15% Price: $20 firm tannins and lifted acidity. It ends fiery hot and peppery, unable to tame the alcohol within. Soilair Tagaro 2017 Passo del Sud Negroamaro-­ Amastuola 2017 Capocanale Merlot (Puglia).­ Selection. —A.P. 87 Primitivo (Puglia). With the blend domi- 86 This accessible red offers tones of raspberry abv: 15.5% Price: $NA nated by Negroamaro, this red kicks off with ripe and red-plum jam, with accents of tar and gera- aromas of bramble berries and cherries alongside nium. It’s light and tangy on the palate, showing a a firm dose of sweet spice. Medium in weight, ripe slight bitter edge in the middle that resolves on the RED BLENDS fruit meets cocoa and toasted anise on the palate finish alongside a firm hug of tannins. Tuscan Vine- to a style that will please many who enjoy a yard Imports LLC. —A.P. Botromagno 2015 Pier delle Vigne (Murgia). rounded wine with sweet spice tones. Eagle Spirits abv: 14% Price: $13 89 A blend of 60% Aglianico and 40% Monte­ Imports and Exports. —A.P. pulciano, this wine offers aromas of dried red ber- abv: 14% Price: $13 Apollonio 2019 Elfo Negroamaro (Salento). ries, crushed black pepper, game and dried hibiscus 86 This fresh, easygoing red is made entirely in on the nose. The palate is developed and soft in Tommasi 2017 Masseria Surani Ares stainless steel and meant to be enjoyed young. Brisk feel, with mild tannins and bright acidity carrying 87 Primitivo-­Cabernet Sauvignon (Puglia). This aromas of red plum and raspberry blend with tones flavors that echo the nose. Enjoy in the near term. accessible red starts off with bright aromas of rasp- of violet and peanut shell on the nose. The palate is LLS–Winebow. —A.P. berry and fig jam, with a bit of a green-herbal tone bright and zesty in red-berry fruit, driven by a puls- abv: 14% Price: $35 riding underneath. It’s light in feel on the palate, ing river of acidity and mellow tannins. Montcalm driven by tangy red-plum and currant flavors that are Wine Importers. —A.P. Claudio Quarta 2016 Cantina Moros Riserva framed by bright acidity and slightly sandy tannins. abv: 13% Price: $17 89 (Salice Salentino). Dense aromas of brandy- Vintus LLC. —A.P. soaked cherries and blackberries meld with a heady abv: 13% Price: $16 Claudio Quarta 2018 Qu.ale (Salento). This dose of anise and allspice on the nose. The medium- 86 light-bodied red blend offers rounded fla- bodied palate is rounded and soft in feel, carried by vors of plum and blackberry. Bright acidity seems to plush dark-fruit flavors with a framing of polished OTHER RED WINES stick out against the ripe, jammy fruit, with a gentle tannins and lifted acidity. Dark cocoa lingers on the film of tannins framing it all. Enotec Imports, Inc. close. Enotec Imports, Inc. —A.P. Tormaresca 2016 Bocca di Lupo Aglianico —A.P. abv: 14% Price: $40 92 (Castel del Monte). Initial tones of coconut, abv: 13.5% Price: $16 anise and cola carry the nose, with dense blackberry Amastuola 2017 Onda del Tempo Organic and black cherry aromas eventually chiming in. Amastuola 2018 Vignatorta Organic Syrah- 88 (Puglia). A blend of Aglianico, Merlot and It’s full and rich on the palate, oozing with seduc- 85 Primitivo (Puglia). A faint nose of blackberry­ Cabernet Sauvignon, this red offers baked fruit tive warm spice tones and gripping dark fruit, all and currant carries a sharpness to it. The palate is aromas of plum and raspberry set against plenty of while polished tannins and well-integrated acidity light and racy in feel, driven by tart berry flavors sweet spice tones. Plush red fruit and anise arise lend to the ample structure. It’s surly in its infancy, housed by brisk acidity and blunt tannins. Tuscan on the palate, framed by slightly gritty tannins and needing time to stitch together. Drink 2023–2030. Vineyard Imports LLC. —A.P. fresh acidity. Tuscan Vineyard Imports LLC. —A.P. Ste. ­Michelle Wine Estates. —A.P. abv: 14% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $70 Villa Schinosa 2018 Laghiglione Rosso Apollonio 2013 Valle Cupa (Salento). A rich Crifo 2015 Augustale Riserva Nero di Troia 84 (Puglia).­ Aromas of charred jalapeño, cur- 88 nose of toasted spice, blackberry jam and 90 (Castel del Monte). Offering a pleasing rant and baked black plum carry the nose, with a plum starts this off. This blend of Primitivo and mix of sweet and savory tones on the nose, this red tin-can accent arising as it sits in the glass. A blend ­Negroamaro is rounded and plush on the palate, filled delves into aromas of black plum, baked ham, anise of Primitivo and Syrah, the medium-bodied pal- out by ripe dark-fruit tones and a firm dose of warm and peppery spice. The medium-bodied palate is ate offers ripe plum and cherry fruit that ends on a spices. It’s well balanced in structure, but leans a rounded in feel, built by a firm grip of tannins but sweet bubblegum note. Mild tannins and soft acid- little heavy on the oak. Montcalm Wine Importers. filled out by rich flavors cherry and plum. Pullano ity hold it all together. Massanois Imports. —A.P. —A.P. Imports. —A.P. abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 15% Price: $27 abv: 14% Price: $26 Amastuola 2016 Aglianico (Puglia). A Cantine Menhir 2018 Pietra (Salento). A Tormaresca 2018 Nèprica Cabernet Sauvi- 83 straightforward nose of raspberry, cherry and 87 blend of 80% Negroamaro and 20% Mal- 88 gnon (Puglia). A pleasingly rich nose of tobacco carries the nose. The palate is light in feel, vasia Nera, this red offers aromas of baked rasp- dark plum and bramble-berry pie carries the nose with clenching tannins drying up the red-fruit fla-

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BUYINGGUIDE vors. It ends superdry and gripping. Tuscan Vineyard side fine-grained tannins. It’s balanced, with bright Imports LLC. —A.P. SICILY acidity. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $16 abv: 14% Price: $NA ETNA ROSSO Ampelon 2017 Passo delle Sciare Rosso ROSATOS Graci 2015 Arcuria Sopra il Pozzo Rosso 92 (Etna). Savory and mineral-driven, this 96 (Etna). Smoke, star anise, mature wild opens with aromas of smoke, mature dark-skinned Claudio Quarta 2019 Tenute Eméra La ­Vigne berry, Mediterranean scrub and blue flower are just fruit, underbrush and camphor. The medium-bod- 90 en Rose Negroamaro Rosato (Salento). some of the aromas you’ll find on this compelling ied palate features concentrated flavors of black Brisk aromas of cantaloupe, grapefruit and red- red. Elegant, structured and incredibly delicious, cherry, raspberry jam, licorice and a sprinkling of apple peel make for a crisp, enticing entry to this the smooth, focused palate delivers juicy Marasca cinnamon framed in fine-grained, rather drying tan- rosato. There’s nice roundness and weight to the cherry, rhubarb, licorice and tobacco alongside a nins before a flinty close. Bacchanal Wine Imports. palate, with flavors of melon and citrus accented by vein of flinty mineral. It’s impeccably balanced, with —K.O. peppery spice. A gentle grip of tannins matches the polished tannins and fresh acidity. Drink through abv: 14% Price: $35 fruit intensity well, making this a well-balanced, 2027. Massanois Imports. —K.O. textured offering. Enotec Imports, Inc. —A.P. abv: 14% Price: $189 I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna 2012 Saeculare abv: 13% Price: $18 92 Riserva Rosso (Etna). Aromas of ripe dark- Terra Costantino 2015 Contrada Blandano skinned fruit, fragrant purple flower, scorched earth Cantine Menhir 2019 Pietra Rosato (S­alento). 95 Rosso (Etna). Intense aromas of rose, and Mediterranean scrub form the nose along with 89 A blend of Primitivo and Susumaniello, under­brush, scorched earth and camphor lead the a whiff of sandalwood. This is a blend of Nerello this rosato is crisp in tones of blood orange, cran- way. Medium bodied and elegantly structured, the Mascalese (80%), Nerello Cappuccio and Alicante. berry and watermelon. The easygoing fruit flavors focused, savory palate delivers ripe Marasca cherry, The palate is both concentrated and weightless, fea- are held in check by a slick of wet stone and zesty, raspberry, licorice and flinty mineral framed in lithe turing dried black cherry, orange zest, licorice and bright acidity. A gentle hug of tannins gives grip to tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. Drink hints of French oak alongside, grainy, drying tannins the close. Francoli USA. Best Buy. —A.P. through 2027. Banville Wine Merchants. Editors’ that sneak up you. It closes on a note of rusty iron. abv: 12.5% Price: $14 Choice. —K.O. Porto Vino Italiano. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $42 abv: NA Price: $75 Ognissole 2019 Pontelama Nero di Troia 86 Rosato (Castel del Monte). Rich aromas Alta Mora 2016 Feudo di Mezzo Rosso (Etna). Pietradolce 2018 Contrada Santo Spirito of strawberry and raspberry meld with a stemmy 93 Elegant and savory, this focused red has aro- 92 Rosso (Etna). This racy red opens with aro- accent of rooibos on the nose. The palate is rounded mas of wild berry, blue flower, underbrush and dark mas of wet stone, wild aromatic herb, violet and in feel, showing a mild vein of ripe red-berry tones spice. The radiant palate has great energy, deliver- ground clove. It’s exquisite and has intense energy, that’s just balanced by a lifted of acidity. It ends a bit ing juicy Morello cherry, licorice and tobacco along- featuring juicy pomegranate, orange zest, star anise drying and a bit astringent. Palm Bay International. side lithe, fine-grained tannins that give it a rather and savory saline alongside firm acidity and taut, —A.P. drying finish. Bright acidity keeps it well balanced. polished tannins. Some may find this too ethere- abv: 13% Price: $13 Drink through 2026. Terlato Wines International. ally delicate, but lovers of extreme elegance will be —K.O. hooked. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $58 abv: 14.5% Price: $48 WHITE WINES Alta Mora 2016 Guardiola Rosso (Etna). Aro- Gambino 2016 Petto Dragone Rosso (Etna). Cantine Menhir 2019 Verdeca (Salento). A 93 mas of fragrant purple flower, underbrush, 91 Elegant and savory, this Nerello Mascalese 88 quiet nose of spring flowers, lemon zest and Mediterranean scrub and fragrant spice shape the opens with heady aromas of wild red berry, blue melon carries to the light-bodied palate. There’s a nose. Focused and elegantly structured, the vibrant flower, wet stone, toasted nut and botanical herb. gentle creaminess to it all, lifted by a delicate vein palate features ripe black cherry, raspberry, licorice The linear, focused palate offers sour cherry, orange of crushed stone and pushed along by zesty acidity. and a hint of saline alongside tightly wound, fine- zest, star anise and espresso alongside lithe, fine- It’s a light, bright wine to enjoy alongside seafood, grained tannins that grip the close. Drink 2022– grained tannins. Bright acidity keeps it balanced. poultry and roasted veggies. Francoli USA. —A.P. 2028. Terlato Wines International. —K.O. Total Wine & More. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $58 abv: 13.5% Price: $58

Mocavero 2019 Curtirussi Verdeca (Puglia). Calcaneus 2017 Arcuria Rosso (Etna). Medi- Palmento Costanzo 2017 Mofete Rosso 87 Brisk aromas of lemon, melon rind and 93 terranean scrub, violet, camphor and 91 (Etna). Red-berry, wet stone, wild-rose and crushed stone carry to the lightly concentrated pal- dark-skinned berry are some of the aromas you’ll Mediterranean brush aromas are front and center ate. There’s a bit of a creamy, yeasty note on the find on this fragrant, full-bodied red. The savory, on this fragrant red. The taut, linear palate presents midpalate, but fresh lemony zestiness rises back to bright palate offers ripe blackberry, juicy blood- sour cherry, saline and aniseed alongside tight, fine- bring a crisp finish. Martin Ulisse Imports. —A.P. orange, ground clove and slate notes offset by taut, grained tannins that leave a grippy finish. Drink after abv: 13% Price: $18 fine-grained tannins. Drink 2022–2029. Giuliana 2023. Artisanal Cellars. —K.O. Imports.­ —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $26 Tenute Rubino 2018 Malvasia Bianca abv: 14.5% Price: $30 87 (Salento).­ Notes of gravel, melon rind and Calcaneus 2017 Feudo di Mezzo Rosso citrus carry the nose of this brisk white wine. Tenute Bosco 2015 Vico Prephylloxera Rosso 90 (Etna). Aromas of scorched earth, grilled There’s a rounded feel to the fruit on the palate, 93 (Etna). Made with extremely old vines porcini mushroom, leather and toasted nut form with juicy white plum and tangy citrus peels meet- planted at the end of the 1800s—some of them the nose along with a whiff of eucalyptus. The lin- ing a slight bitter-almond tone. Soilair Selection. ­ungrafted, this has aromas of eucalyptus, Mediter- ear, assertive palate features dried cherry, orange —A.P. ranean scrub, blue flower, wet stone and a whiff of zest, clove and toasted hazelnut set against a vein of abv: 12.5% Price: $NA French oak. Elegant, savory and focused, the palate salty saline. Firm, close-grained tannins provide the offers juicy red cherry, vanilla and licorice along-

90 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 framework. Drink 2023–2029. Giuliana Imports. Tenuta Monte Ilice 2017 Capinera dell’Etna Smooth and vibrant, the delicious palate doles out —K.O. 89 Rosso (Etna). This opens with aromas of juicy black cherry, blackberry, spiced blueberry and abv: 14.5% Price: $30 red-skinned berry, Mediterranean scrub and lemon tobacco cushioned in velvety, enveloping tannins. zest. The easygoing palate offers juicy raspberry, It’s well balanced, with fresh acidity. Taub Family I Custodi delle Vigne dell’Etna 2014 Aetneus cinnamon and baking spice alongside lithe tannins. Selections. —K.O. 90 Rosso (Etna). Delicately scented, this has Drink through 2023. Wine Icons. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $44 aromas suggesting violet, Mediterranean brush, abv: 13% Price: $29 hazelnut­ and eucalyptus. The linear, elegant palate Planeta 2018 Nocera (Sicilia). For full review offers dried Marasca cherry, aniseed, orange zest and Al-Cantàra 2017 Lu Veru Piaciri Rosso (Etna). 92 see page 14. Editors’ Choice. coffee bean alongside fine-grained tannins. It closes 88 Red-berry, Mediterranean herb and wet abv: 12.5% Price: $NA on an almost salty note. Porto Vino Italiano. —K.O. stone aromas form the nose. Lithe and linear, the abv: 13% Price: $35 palate offers black cherry, aniseed and a tinny min- Planeta 2017 Mamertino. Made with 60% eral note alongside pliant tannins. Total Wine & 91 Nero d’Avola and 40% Nocera, this has aro- Pietradolce 2018 Contrada Rampante Rosso More. —K.O. mas of dark-skinned berry, baking spice and Medi- 90 (Etna). Aromas of rose, exotic spice and abv: 14% Price: $NA terranean herb. Reflecting the nose, the medium- wild berry shape the nose on this fragrant red, along bodied palate has concentrated flavors of dried with whiffs of moist earth and leather. The linear, Ampelon 2015 Le Caldere Rosso (Etna). Morello cherry, blackberry jam and cinnamon set vibrant palate features Marasca cherry, licorice and 88 Blue-flower, Mediterranean scrub and against taut, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2021–2025. a hint of espresso alongside racy acidity and close- over-­mature black-skinned-fruit aromas form the Taub Family Selections. —K.O. grained tannins that leave a drying finish. Drink nose. The ripe palate is rather evolved, offering abv: 13.5% Price: $36 2022–2028. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. fleshy plum, spiced blue berry and a hint of cin- abv: 14.5% Price: $46 namon alongside dusty, drying tannins that leave a Tasca d’Almerita 2016 Tenuta Regaleali Rosso lean finish. Bacchanal Wine Imports. —K.O. 91 del Conte (Sicilia). Aromas of French oak, Terrazze dell’Etna 2016 Carusu Rosso abv: 14% Price: $45 Mediterranean scrub and blue flower are front and 90 (Etna). Scents of Mediterranean brush, center on this vibrant blend of Nero d’Avola and fragrant purple flower and rusty iron meld together Federico Curtaz 2017 Il Purgatorio Rosso Perricone. The palate is still primary and youthfully in the glass. Full bodied but weightless, the lithe, 88 (Etna). Aromas of camphor, exotic spice, austere, offering blackberry, cranberry, licorice and palate features juicy red cherry, star anise and Mediterranean brush and fruitcake lead the nose. On tobacco alongside notes of sage and thyme. Asser- savory mineral notes suggesting rusty nail alongside the linear, rather evolved palate, dusty, drying tan- tive, close-grained tannins provide grippy sup- firm acidity. Fine-grained, somewhat drying tannins nins accompany dried cherry, licorice and menthol. port and a drying, clenching finish. Give it time to provide lithe support. Ethica Wines. —K.O. Palermo Wine Imports. —K.O. unwind and fully develop. Drink 2025–2036. Dalla abv: 14.5% Price: $17 abv: 14% Price: $30 Terra Winery Direct. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $70 Al-Cantàra 2017 O’Scuro O’Scuro Rosso Monteleone 2018 Rumex Rosso (Etna). Aro- 89 (Etna). Made with Nerello Mascalese, this 88 mas of French oak dominate the nose while has aromas of scorched earth, camphor, French oak whiffs suggesting blue flower and wet stone stay in WHITE WINES and exotic spice. The linear palate offers driedcherry, ­ the background. Reflecting the nose, the medium- licorice, vanilla and roasted coffee bean alongside bodied palate offers coconut, espresso, vanilla and Curatolo Arini 1875 2019 Grillo (Sicilia). close-grained tannins. Total Wine & More. —K.O. prune alongside assertive, drying tannins and racy 90 This crisp, tangy white has enticing aro- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 acidity. It’s more about oak-driven spice than Etna’s mas of sea breeze, citrus and white stone fruit. On classic fruit and mineral sensations. Golden Ram the savory palate, bright acidity accompanies white Contrada Santo Spirito 2016 ­Animardente Imports. —K.O. peach, juicy grapefruit and pineapple before fin- 89 Rosso (Etna). Aromas of French oak, abv: 14% Price: $60 ishing on hints of saline and white pepper. Grape scorched earth and vanilla form the nose. The palate ­Expectations (CA). Best Buy. —K.O. is rather evolved, offering prune, dried cherry and Curatolo Arini 1875 2017 Rosso (Etna). This abv: 12.5% Price: $13 star anise alongside grainy, drying tannins. Drink 87 has subdued aromas suggesting scorched sooner rather than later to capture the remaining earth, grilled porcini, violet and menthol. The palate Stemmari 2019 Pinot Grigio (Sicilia). White fruit richness. Kobrand. —K.O. opens with prune, licorice and roasted coffee bean 89 spring-flower and white stone-fruit aromas abv: 14% Price: $NA before assertive, drying tannins generate an abrupt, lead the nose on this tangy white. On the refresh- astringent finish. Grape Expectations (CA). —K.O. ing palate, crisp acidity accompanies yellow apple Cottanera 2017 Feudo di Mezzo Rosso abv: 14% Price: $NA and apricot before finishing on a lime note. Prestige 89 (Etna). Aromas of toasted nut, scorched Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy. —K.O. earth, leather and eucalyptus shape the nose. Full Cottanera 2015 Zottorinotto Riserva Rosso abv: 13% Price: $11 bodied and linear, the taut palate shows dried 86 (Etna). This has subdued aromas of oak, ­cherry, licorice, hazelnut and vanilla. Tightly knit, toasted nut and coconut. The aromas follow over the Pietradolce 2017 Sant’Andrea Bianco (Etna). close-grained tannins leave an assertive, tongue lean, extracted palate along with espresso notes but 88 This has subdued aromas suggesting yellow drying finish. Indigenous Selections. —K.O. it lacks fruit richness and vibrancy. Grainy, drying apple and hazelnut. The aromas carry over to the abv: 14.5% Price: $NA tannins leave a raspy finish. Indigenous Selections. rather evolved palate along with saline notes and —K.O. vibrant acidity. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. Tenuta Monte Ilice 2017 Rosso (Etna). Aro- abv: 14% Price: $80 abv: 13.5% Price: $129 89 mas of red-skinned fruit, underbrush and aromatic herb emerge from the glass. The savory palate offers juicy strawberry, clove and star anise OTHER RED WINES ROSATO alongside smooth tannins. Drink through 2023. Wine Icons. —K.O. Planeta 2016 Nero d’Avola (Noto). Wild- Barone di Villagrande 2019 Rosato (Etna). abv: 13% Price: $29 95 berry, blue-flower, Mediterranean brush 93 Bright and savory, this lightly hued, deli- and exotic spice aromas shape the expressive nose. cious rosato has delicate aromas of spring blossom,

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BUYINGGUIDE stone fruit and a whiff of Mediterranean brush. Made Benvenuto 2018 Mare White (Calabria). A with 90% Nerello Mascalese and 10% Carricante, BASILICATA ROSATOS 89 blend of 60% Malvasia and 40% Zibibbo, the tangy palate offers white peach, blood orange this white delivers detailed aromas of apricot, pot- and pink grapefruit alongside crisp acidity. Savory Cantina di Venosa 2019 Verbo Rosato pourri, ripe lemon and sun-dried hay. There’s a saline notes lift the finish. Omniwines Distribution. 89 (Basilicata).­ This Aglianico rosato boasts pleasing roundness to the palate, with a delicately Editors’­ Choice. —K.O. bright aromas of lychee, papaya and orange blos- viscous texture that’s propped up by integrated abv: 12.5% Price: $19 som. It’s juicy and fruity on the palate, showing a acidity. Flavors of apple, apricot and dried hay are mix of tangy and ripe tropical-fruit tones that man- lifted by tangy orange-laden acidity. Jan D’Amore age to be held in check by a zesty line of orange- Wines. —A.P. OTHER SOUTHERN laden acidity. It’s a bold, forward style that many abv: 13% Price: $21 will enjoy as an aperitivo. Grapejuice Group. —A.P. ITALY abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Ippolito 1845 2019 Mare Chiaro (Cirò). This 89 tasty white seamlessly blends floral, fruity BASILICATA WHITE WINES Taverna 2019 Maddalena Primitivo Rosato and savory elements to yield a delicious outcome. 88 (Basilicata). Spicy, brambly aromas of cur- Orange blossom, yellow apple and crushed salt Cantina di Venosa 2019 Verbo Malvasia rant and raspberry meld with a hints of crushed tones are honed by vibrant acidity, ending smooth 88 (Basilicata). A bold, fruity nose shows a herbs and blood orange on the nose. The light-­ and lifted. It’s a great wine to enjoy alongside fresh wealth of tropical fruit alongside rose petals and -bodied palate echoes the aromas, with a salty, seafood. Soilair Selection. Best Buy. —A.P. white pepper. The medium-bodied palate has nice savory note creeping in on the finish to lift it all up. abv: 13% Price: $14 weight and concentration, with juicy tropical-fruit Zeman Global Selections. —A.P. flavors honed by bright acidity and a floral orange- abv: 13% Price: $15 Statti 2018 White (Lamezia). A blend of blossom tone. Bacchanal Wine Imports. —A.P. 88 Greco and Mantonico, this white offers a abv: 13.5% Price: $17 decently rich nose of apricot and sun-dried hay. BASILICATA RED WINE The medium-bodied palate shows plush flavors of Re Manfredi 2018 White (Basilicata). orchard fruit and melon, with fresh enough acidity 88 Unique for the region, this white is a blend Taverna 2018 I Sassi Primitivo (Matera). keeping it all in check. It ends ripe and open, mak- of Müller-Thurgau and Traminer. It starts off with 86 From a region in Basilicata that boarders ing this a solid offering for those who enjoy fuller-­ brisk aromas of Mandarin orange and white flow- Puglia, this Primitivo starts off with a quiet nose of bodied, soft white wines. Vias Imports.Best Buy. ers that carry to the silken, sultry palate. There’s iodine and tilled earth. The medium-bodied palate —A.P. low verve to the pear and stone-fruit flavors, mak- begins smooth and silken in feel, with tasty red- abv: 13% Price: $13 ing this a wine to enjoy in the near term. Frederick fruit flavors holding court. However, by the finish, Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.P. clenching tannins constrain the fruit and give a dry Librandi 2018 Critone White (Val di Neto). A abv: 13% Price: $26 bite. Zeman Global Selections. —A.P. 87 blend of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Sauvi- abv: 14.5% Price: $22 gnon Blanc, this white starts off with subtle aromas Taverna 2019 San Basile Greco Bianco of peach, apple and sea spray. The light-bodied pal- 87 (Matera).­ Crisp aromas of yellow apple, ate is bright and crisp in orchard-fruit flavors that green pear and blanched almond start off this CALABRIA WHITE WINES are lifted by lemon-tinged acidity. Winebow. —A.P. straightforward yet enjoyable white. It’s tangy and abv: 12.5% Price: $17 lifted on the light-bodied palate, driven by power- Benvenuto 2018 Zibibbo (Calabria). There’s ful waves of citrus-laden acidity. There’s a mild grip 90 a flinty, earthy edge on the nose of this Librandi 2017 Efeso Mantonico (Val di Neto). of almond on the finish. This zesty offering needs white, with rippling tones of ripe melon and white 87 A creamy nose of brioche, lemon curd and some food to counteract all that acidity. Enjoy with flowers riding beneath. The medium-bodied palate melon starts off this barrel-aged Mantonico. It’s vis- seafood or poultry. Zeman Global Selections. —A.P. boasts a delightful array of fruit—from tart citrus to cous and rich in feel on the palate but propped up abv: 13% Price: $15 juicy, ripe white plum and luscious melon. A zesty well enough by bright acidity. Creamed fruit flavors frame of acidity keeps this feeling light and bright, of lemon and melon blend on a buttery soft texture. Taverna 2019 SenSO2 White (Basilicata). with a lifted orange-blossom tone extending on the Winebow. —A.P. 87 With no added sulfites, this hazy, slightly finish. Jan D’Amore Wines. —A.P. abv: 14% Price: $28 spritzy white is made from Pinot Bianco. Aromas abv: 13% Price: $24 of pear juice, tangerine and citron carry to the Librandi 2019 Segno (Cirò). Mild aromas medium-­bodied palate. A gentle tone of savory Ippolito 1845 2019 Pecorello (Calabria). 85 of lemon and white flowers carry a candied yeast lends some grip to the fruity tones, end- 90 Boasting crisp tones of greengage plum, edge to them on the nose. This is bright and zesty on ing briskly on a lemon-kissed banana note. Zeman crushed stone and a bit of melon, this light-­bodied the palate, boasting straightforward flavors of­banana Global Selections. —A.P. white is made solely from the Pecorello grape, and tangy tropical fruit. LLS–Winebow. —A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $14 which is native to Calabria. It’s taut and bright on abv: 12.5% Price: $14 the palate in juicy white plum and lemon, with bits Paternoster 2018 Volcanico Falanghina of stone and a slight herbal edge chiming in. Soilair Statti 2016 Mantonico (Calabria). Fermented 86 (Basilicata).­ A feint nose of lemon, apple Selection. Best Buy. —A.P. 83 in Acacia, this gold-hued white is taut and and blanched almond starts off this straightforward abv: 13% Price: $15 gripping on the palate. Lemon-peel, apricot-skin white. It’s light in feel, with tart lemon and orchard- and pine flavors are wrapped in tannins reminiscent fruit flavors that end on a brisk salted citrus note. Statti 2018 Greco (Calabria). Ripe tones of over-steeped white tea. It ends a bit bitter and Vintus LLC. —A.P. 90 of pear and melon meld with wild thyme astringent. Vias Imports. —A.P. abv: 13% Price: $20 and white flowers in this rich, textural white. It’s abv: 13% Price: $26 rounded in feel yet properly balanced by integrated acidity and a gentle grip of blanched almond. For those looking for a full-bodied, food-friendly white, this is the ticket. Vias Imports. —A.P. abv: 13% Price: $18

92 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 ongrass and shortbread carry the nose of this Fiano. Jermann 2017 Red Angel on the Moonlight CALABRIA ROSATOS A slight spritz on the palate dissipates quickly to 92 Pinot Nero (Venezia Giulia). For full review reveal flavors of lemon and pear that mingle with see page 13. Librandi 2019 Segno Rosato (Cirò). Made a savory yeast tone. Lifted acidity ensures a brisk, abv: 13% Price: $35 90 entirely from Gaglioppo, this rosato starts clean ending. Vias Imports. —A.P. off with an engaging nose of red currant, Mediterra- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Calabretta NV Cala Cala (Vino Rosso nean scrub and watermelon rind. There’s a pleasing, 90 d’Italia). Savory and soulful, this lithe red rounded feel to the palate, boasting juicy red-berry opens with earthy aromas of tilled earth, eucalyp- flavors struck against a dash of blood-orange rind. ROSATOS tus oil, blue flower, game and underbrush. A blend Lifted acidity and gentle fruit-skin tannins provide of multiple vintages of wine made from Nerello the framing for this food-friendly rosato. LLS– Francesco Cirelli NV Amphora 15+16+17 ­Organic Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio grown on Mount Winebow. Best Buy. —A.P. 91 Rosato (Italy). A blend of three vintages Etna, it offers ripe raspberry, orange-zest, baking- abv: 13% Price: $15 (2015, 2016, 2017) of amphora-aged Cerasuolo spice, saline, mineral and gamy notes. Smooth, fine- d’Abruzzo blended and bottled in July 2018, this grained tannins provide support. It’s a bit funky but Ippolito 1845 2019 Mabilia Rosé (Cirò). wine is rich in color and boasts a cozy nose of wild loaded with flavor and personality. Drink through 88 Made from Gaglioppo, this rosé offers tense cherries, softened leather and clay. The palate is 2024. Polaner Selections. —K.O. tones of tangy red berries filled out by creamy ­vibrant and integrated in defined tones of red herryc­ abv: 13% Price: $NA melon and a dash of crushed herbs. It’s light bodied and blackberry, with a delicate interplay between in style, showing a pleasing grip of berry skins lifted lifted acidity and a grip of tannins. There’s a pleas- by a salty, savory undercurrent. Soilair Selection. ing fruit-skin and earthy mineral grip to it all, giving VINO SPUMANTE —A.P. this pink wine a wild edge. Zev Rovine Selections. abv: 13% Price: $18 —A.P. BiancaVigna 2018 Sui Lieviti Brut Nature abv: 13% Price: $50 92 Glera (Vino Spumante). Green-apple, jasmine and bread-crust aromas fill the glass. CAMPANIA RED Villa Guelpa 2018 Vino Rosato d’Italia. Made Smooth and creamy, the savory palate doles out 90 with 80% Nebbiolo and 20% Pinot Nero, Granny Smith apple, white peach, citrus and white Feudi di San Gregorio 2018 Sirica (Campania).­ this has enticing scents of wild rose, woodland ­berry almond alongside a silky mousse and bright acidity. 93 Made from the rare native grape Sirica, this and botanical herb. On the savory palate, bright I­ndigenous Selections. —K.O. offers enticing aromas of fragrant purple flower, acidity accompanies pomegranate, red cherry,­ white abv: 11.5% Price: $NA black-skinned berry and Mediterranean brush. pepper and a tangy saline note before a dry finish. T. The balanced, succulent palate features blackberry, Edward Wines Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. Cantine di Marzo NV Metodo Classcio Extra clove, tobacco and black pepper alongside velvety abv: 12.5% Price: $25 92 Brut 1930 (Vino Spumante). Aromas of tannins and bright acidity. Enjoy through 2028. white stone fruit, bread crust and Mediterranean Terlato Wines International. —K.O. Cirelli la Collina Biologica NV Organic Rosato brush shape the inviting nose. Creamy and fresh, abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 89 (Italy). Aromas of balsamic-dipped cherry, the bright palate delivers ripe apple, pear, pastry freshly cut thyme and blood orange carry a slightly dough and hazelnut alongside fresh acidity and an wild quality about them. The palate is rounded elegant perlage. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. OTHER ITALY and smooth in a rich red-cherry flavor that’s held abv: 13.5% Price: $NA in check by a tangy limestone accent. The tannins WHITE WINES offer a gentle grip, but are polished in nature, mak- Dubl NV Esse Dosaggio Zero (Vino ing this a textural beauty to enjoy in the near term. 92 Spumante).­ Made entirely with the native Selva Capuzza 2019 Campo del Soglio Friulano Zev Rovine Selections. —A.P. grape Greco, this sparkler from Campania has heady 91 (San Martino della Battaglia). White flower, abv: 12% Price: $18 aromas of white spring wild flower, Mediterranean tropical fruit and pear aromas lead the nose. On herb, white stone fruit and bread crust. Racy and the palate, crisp acidity accompanies green melon, Ioppa 2019 Rusin Rosato (Colline Novaresi). elegant, the dry, linear palate offers mature yellow tangy lemon drop and a drop of saline. —K.O. 89 Red berry, blue flower and a whiff of bak- apple, unsweetened lemon drop and a hint of aca- abv: 13% Price: $NA ing spice form the delicate nose on this refreshing cia honey alongside a continuous perlage. It closes ­rosato. Made with Nebbiolo, the savory, racy pal- on a toasted hazelnut note. Domaine Select Wine & Ugo Lequio 2019 Arneis (Langhe). Aromas ate offers juicy strawberry, orange-slice and white-­ Spirits. —K.O. 90 of beeswax, chamomile and mature white pepper notes. Grand Cru Selections. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $80 stone fruit shape the nose. On the medium-bod- abv: 12.5% Price: $12 ied palate, fresh acidity accompanies ripe yellow Dubl NV Rosato Dosaggio Zero (Vino apple, honey and white almond. Wade & Clark 92 Spumante). Delicately scented, this offers Wine Imports. —K.O. RED WINES light aromas of spring wild flower, crushed thyme abv: 13.5% Price: $NA and wild berry. Bone-dry but loaded with flavor, the Villa Guelpa 2018 Longitudine 8.26 Neb- savory palate delivers cranberry, pomegranate, cit- Morgante 2019 Bianco di Morgante (Vino 93 biolo (Vino Rosso d’Italia). Rose, violet and rus and bread crust before a grilled rosemary finish. 89 Bianco d’Italia). Made with 100% Nero red-berry aromas mingle with a whiff of alpine Crisp acidity and a refined perlage provide the back- d’Avola but vinified as a white wine, this bright herb. Juicy and delicious, the smooth, graceful pal- drop. Domaine Select Wine & Spirits. —K.O. offering opens with aromas of white stone fruit and ate features Marasca cherry, blood orange and star abv: 12.5% Price: $75 honeysuckle. The fresh palate offers pink grapefruit, anise alongside polished tannins and bright acidity. white almond and a saline finish. LLS–Winebow. T. ­Edward Wines Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. Scacciadiavoli NV Metodo Classico Rosé —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $30 92 Brut (Vino Spumante). This lovely, radiant abv: 13.5% Price: $19 sparkler has aromas of wild herb, red berry, vio- let and bread crust. Made entirely with the native Basilisco 2019 Sophia Biologico White (Vino Umbrian grape Sagrantino, the dry, focused palate 85 Bianco d’Italia). Aromas of lemon curd, lem- delivers red cherry, pomegranate, orange zest and

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BUYINGGUIDE bitter almond alongside crisp acidity that gives it right delicious Sauvignon from a great vintage and a tleness to the texture to temper all that acidity. This a pristine close. A refined, persistent perlage lends thoughtful producer. Hand-picked and whole-bunch is an affordable example of an iconic and inimitable finesse. Vinity Wine Company. —K.O. pressed with six months on lees, there’s a refreshing wine style. Drink now. Saranty Imports. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $30 ease of winemaking here. The nose is like unbaked abv: 13% Price: $17 apple crumble combined with notes of lemon ver- Dorigo NV Blanc de Blancs Pas Dosé (Vino bena and tomato leaf. The texture is gorgeous, with Tinpot Hut 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- 91 Spumante). White stone-fruit, bread-crust bright acidity and a long lemony, herbal finish. This 90 borough). This fresh, perfumed Sauvignon and hay aromas form the nose on this linear spar- is good friendly and filled with personality. K&L presents a fruit bowl of flavor (citrus, stone and kler. On the bone-dry, rather lean palate, racy acid- Wine Merchants. —C.P. tropical), with bass notes of damp grass and dried ity accompanies yellow apple, unsweetened lemon abv: 13% Price: $20 green herbs. Acidity is lifted but in check, with a drop and white almond alongside an elegant, con- pithy bite and herb-flecked finish. This is a refresh- tinuous perlage. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Giesen 2019 The Brothers Sauvignon Blanc ing, balanced, bone-dry bottling perfect for summer —K.O. 92 (Marlborough). Giesen’s lees and barrel salads. Copa Fina Imports CA. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA aged “The Brothers” is back and, likely thanks to abv: 13% Price: $19 the fantastic 2019 vintage, is better than it’s been G D Vajra NV N.S. della Neve Metodo Classico in several years. It opens with a delicate perfume of Lawson’s Dry Hills 2019 Sauvignon Blanc 91 (Vino Spumante). Vibrant and linear, this honeydew melon, green-apple slices, black-currant 89 (Marlborough). From one of Marlborough’s tangy sparkler offers aromas of rose, red berry and a leaf and honeysuckle. There’s a slight burn of sulfur early grape pioneers, this Sauvignon ticks all the hint of pastry dough. On the racy palate, small, con- on the palate but overall it’s fruit driven and tex- regional and stylistic boxes. It opens on the reduc- tinuous bubbles and lively acidity accompany juicy tural, lifted by a lovely crunch of acidity and a wel- tive, funky side, soon revealing gooseberry, citrus, red cherry, pomegranate, citrus and bread crust come layer of complexity amidst the refreshment. bell-pepper and dried green-herbal notes as it before a dry, crisp finish. Winebow. —K.O. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —C.P. opens in glass. Still very young, there’s a bite to the abv: 12% Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $20 acidity, like sucking on a lemon, that may settle into the wine more with another six months to a year in Scacciadiavoli NV Metodo Classico Brut (Vino Middle-Earth 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Nelson).­ bottle. Mt. Beautiful USA. —C.P. 91 Spumante). Focused and savory, this refined 92 For full review see page 14. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13% Price: $17 sparkler has aromas of chamomile, white stone abv: 12.5% Price: $17 fruit, orange zest and baked bread. The aromas fol- Moon Twist 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- low over to the bright, linear palate along with a Paddy Borthwick 2019 Sauvignon Blanc 88 ough). This classic Marlborough Sauvignon hint of lemon drop. A silky perlage and bright acid- 91 (Wairarapa).­ This is a well-balanced, clas- walks a line between fruity and vegetal, with notes ity provide the backdrop. Vinity Wine Company. sically styled Kiwi Sauvignon from a great vintage. of grapefruit and lemon oil alongside grass and that —K.O. The nose is relatively restrained and layered, reveal- slightly sweaty, feline funk typical to this style. abv: NA Price: $30 ing waxy citrus, crushed green herbs, delicate flo- There’s what feels like a touch of residual sugar on rals and that slightly sweaty funk that’s a signature the palate and textural creaminess balancing plenty Medici Ermete NV Uspanique Rosé Brut of this style. There’s a lovely play between texture of zingy acidity and boisterous fruit. Drink now, 90 Metodo Classico (Vino Spumante). Bread- and acidity on the palate, setting this up to be a with a pool or beach in sight if possible. Kysela Père crust and red-berry aromas follow over to the tangy food-friendly drop. LeVecke. —C.P. et Fils. Best Buy. —C.P. palate along with notes of candied citrus zest and abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 12.5% Price: $13 a dollop of vanilla. Fresh acidity and a persistent perlage provide the background. Kobrand. —K.O. Te Whare Ra 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- Kennedy Point 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 91 ough). While TWR is celebrated more for its 87 borough). There’s what feels like a good beautiful aromatic whites like Riesling and Pinot whack of sulfur to start on this wine. Underneath, Baracchi 2016 Brut Rosé Metodo Classico Gris, the latest Sauvignon is a young yet well-bal- plenty of typical Marlborough Sauvignon notes can 89 (Vino Spumante). Aromas of underbrush, anced drop. Notes of relatively ripe peach and cit- be found: green bell pepper, gooseberry, passion toasted nut, red berry and blue flower form the nose rus fruit run along a spine of green bell pepper and fruit, lemon and a slightly sweaty, feline funk. The on this racy sparkler. Made with Sangiovese, the that feline funk typical to this style and region. On acidity is mouthpuckering, like chewing on a lemon, vibrant palate features pomegranate, sour cherry the palate, complexity is added to the bright citrus but there’s some textural weight here, too. A line of and bread crust alongside persistent, steely bead- fruit and zingy acidity via a chalky texture. This is bright citrusy fruit flows through to finish. Kysela ing. Grapejuice Group. —K.O. a solid and unforced SB that speaks, not shrieks, of Père et Fils. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $40 its origins. Another year or two in bottle should add abv: 13% Price: $22 a whole new dimension here. DJK Imports. —C.P. Gabriele Scaglione NV Metodo Classico Rosé abv: 13% Price: $20 Rubus 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Waipara 89 Brut (Vino Spumante). Made entirely with 86 Valley).­ In line with many in this category, 100% Nebbiolo, this pretty sparkler has aromas Astrolabe 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- there’s a hefty funk factor here. It opens with pun- of violet, red berry and just a hint of bread dough. 90 ough). For full review see page 18. gent oniony, feline notes followed by green-bell- On the lively palate, bright acidity accompanies abv: 13.5% Price: $22 pepper, snow-pea and seashell aromas. Stone and pomegranate, strawberry and a hint of baking spice. citrus fruit peek through the cracks. The reductive, Matchvino. —K.O. Staete Landt 2019 Map Maker Sauvignon underripe elements are more prominent on the pal- abv: 12% Price: $50 90 Blanc (Marlborough). Reflective of the bet- ate where what feels like a small amount of residual ter vintage, the 2019 is a big step up the previous sugar adds a bit of texture and sweetness to the jag- year’s bottling of this wine. This is classic life-of- ged edged acidity. Kysela Père et Fils. —C.P. NEW ZEALAND the-party Marlborough SB with all that’s charming abv: 12.5% Price: $20 about the style minus all that’s sweaty and feline. SAUVIGNON BLANC Passion fruit, grapefruit, lime and peach explode Tomtit 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- from the glass with softer grassier notes following 86 ough). Less boisterous than some in this Fromm Winery 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- in the wake. The palate is equally explosive, like a category, this wine leads with characters of waxy 93 borough). This is an expressive and down- Popsicle on overdrive: fresh and fruity, with a gen- lemon-lime, snap pea and tomato leaf. The style’s

94 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 distinctive feline funk stands out, too. The palate acidity isn’t as lifted as other PGs. Nevertheless fruit purity and length. The oak feels somewhat bit- feels generally underripe, with acidity forced and there’s a lovely texture and food friendliness here ter at the finish. DJK Imports. —C.P. sharp, but there’s a slight creamy texture to add that makes for an easy-drinking drop. Copa Fina abv: 13.5% Price: $30 much needed generosity to what is a mostly skeletal Imports CA. —C.P. wine. Advantage International. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 abv: 12.5% Price: $13 WHITE BLENDS Astrolabe 2019 Pinot Gris (Marlborough). Lexicon 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- 89 This is a solid, and beautifully labeled Te Whare Ra 2019 Toru Single Vineyard 5182 85 ough). This is a straightforward Sauvignon example of a white wine variety that has seen a rise 93 (Marlborough). This coferment combines with a heavy dose of winemaking. Reductive and in popularity in New Zealand. While there’s what the aromatic white varieties TWR is renowned for: sulfuric to start, the Band-Aid and onion aromas feels like a fair whack of sulfur on the nose, this Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Gris. Quiet stifle the fruit and green veg characters. The pal- is nonetheless ripe and fruity, bouncing from the at first, it offers delicate aromas of red apple and ate is watery in texture with searing, cheek-sucking glass with notes of pears, peaches, nectarines, and pear skins, peach, lime blossoms, honeysuckle and acidity, but with a visible line of fruit. Kysela Père a floral-soap character often found in this variety, a mineral streak that shows more prominently as et Fils. —C.P. akin to lavender talcum powder. The palate neatly the wine warms in glass. It’s the palate that really abv: 12.9% Price: $18 balances bright acidity with a slippery texture. It strikes gold—slippery but fresh and elegant, with a remains fruity but is also dry and refreshing. Share whisper of sweetness and a long limey finish. Ultra- Tiki 2019 Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- a Splash. —C.P. food friendly, it combines the best of all three vari- 85 ough). This opens with the unmistakably abv: 13.5% Price: $22 eties into a soft-spoken wine from a sensitive and pungency of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc: bell skilled winemaker. DJK Imports. —C.P. pepper, green beans and tomato leaf followed by abv: 13% Price: $20 lemon-lime and gooseberry. The acidity is cheek CHARDONNAY sucking, with an unforgiving bite that makes it hard Paddy Borthwick 2018 Paper Road CPR (Wair- to take another sip. Could use some riper, fleshier Paritua 2018 Chardonnay (Hawkes Bay). 91 arapa). This is a relatively unusual—but, in fruit and less sulfur. USA Wine West. —C.P. 92 Vibrant yellow in color, this shows a fair this vintage anyway, harmonious—blend of Pinot abv: 13.5% Price: $15 bit of sulfur when first opened, but offers a lovely Gris, Chardonnay and Riesling. Aromas rush from energy and brightness nonetheless. Vibrant lemon the glass: lime oil, red apple skins, orchard blossoms peel, freshly sliced peaches, flower blossoms and a and more subtle dried herbal notes. The palate is PINOT GRIS touch of toast and yeast make up the nose. The pal- highly textured, chalky yet slippery, with zesty acid- ate comes with a silky smooth texture, freshened by ity and a saline finish. A few more years in bottle Lawson’s Dry Hills 2019 Pinot Gris (Marl- a lift of acidity and a lick of oak. This is a charm- should offer it a more honeyed complexity. Drink 92 borough). This is an opulent yet charming ing, grown up wine designed for the dinner table. now through 2027. LeVecke. —C.P. ­Pinot Gris from one of Marlborough’s most historic Whanau Imports. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $22 . Medium-gold in hue, it opens with deli- abv: 13.5% Price: $45 cate aromas of spiced apple, peach, cherry blossom and honeysuckle with saline streaks underneath. Decibel 2018 Testify by Daniel Brenwnan PINOT NOIR There’s an ease and balance to the palate: texture, 89 Chardonnay (Hawkes Bay). This full-throttle­ acidity and flavor all working together seamlessly. Chardonnay, made by a New Jersey native turned Te Whare Ra 2016 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). This Pinot Gris would be a happy companion to a Hawkes Bay-based winemaker, is made in a divi- 95 Anna and Jason Flowerday possess the old- broad array of cuisine, from Southeast Asian fare to sive style that nods vigorously towards Burgundy. est vineyards in Marlborough. This Pinot, while still cheese platter. Mt. Beautiful USA. —C.P. The nose is intensely perfumed—a heady combo of young, sings of brambly red berries layered with abv: 13.5% Price: $17 roasted nuts, seashells and gun flint. The orchard woodsy spice, soy sauce, mushrooms, flowers and fruit is tucked into the background. The oak-driven a stony minerality. The medium-weight palate is a Amoise 2019 Gris Pinot Gris (Hawkes Bay). palate finds more restraint than the nose suggests, testament to restraint and a cool climate. It’s both 91 This is a new, micro-label by Hawkes Bay- thanks to a lovely lift of acidity and a salty finish. elegant and austere, set for the long haul. Tannins based winemaker Amy Farnsworth, whose philoso- This style of Chard is trendy at the moment but eas- are taut, spicy and fine, the fruit taking a back seat phy is “no additives or adulterations of any kind,” ily goes overboard, wiping away any sense of place to the spice. Drink now through 2028. DJK Imports. including sulfur. This Pinot Gris, cloudy and amber- and varietal expression. Whanau Imports. —C.P. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. hued, is a fun and funky nod towards northeast Italy. abv: 13% Price: $44 abv: 13% Price: $30 There’s a bit of fizz at first but it quickly dissipates and then the focus is on the heady aromatics: nec- Paritua 2018 Stone Paddock Chardonnay Koyama 2016 Pearson’s Vineyard Pinot Noir tarines, grapefruit rind, salt, beeswax, butterscotch 89 (Hawkes Bay). This is a sturdy Hawkes Bay 94 (Waipara Valley). Takahiro Koyama started and wildflowers. In the mouth it’s light and refresh- Chardonnay that opens with notes of lemon oil, this label and later purchased Mountford (the ­estate ing—bone dry, with a pithy bite, like chomping on a lime and vanilla bean, with subtler undertones like where he worked for many years). While this wine citrus seed. Don’t drink this too cold, and knock the smoke, nuts and ginger. It’s full bodied and creamy isn’t the most ageworthy, it’s joyful and ­energetic. It whole bottle back straight away, for it won’t hold up in the mouth, with a bite of slightly forced acidity.— smells of all four seasons combined: freshly plucked long. That should be an easy task considering how a modern, polished bottling. Whanau Imports. —C.P. red berries; the warming, woodsy smell of bak- deliciously drinkable it is. Wine Dogs Imports LLC. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 ing spices; a newly bloomed rosebush; black olives Editors’ Choice. —C.P. in brine. The palate is just as the nose suggests. abv: 11.5% Price: $27 Matt Connell Wines 2017 Lowburn Chardon- Medium weight, fleshy fruit is supported by sappy, 88 nay (Central Otago). There’s some lively spicy tannins—an expressive beauty reflective­ of the Middle-Earth 2019 Pinot Gris (Nelson). citrus-fruit characters on this wine, but there’s also exciting Waipara Valley. Whanau Imports. Editors’­ 90 From the Nelson region at the top of the what feels like a green woody note that may be from Choice. —C.P. North Island, this affordable Pinot Gris offers notes the barrel. The palate is lean and angular but offers abv: 13% Price: $55 of pear and honeysuckle, backed by subtler aromas some creamy texture, a crunch of acidity and lovely like ginger and something dustier, like the spine of Koyama 2016 Williams’ Vineyard S Pinot a library book. Fruit on the palate is tangy although 94 Noir (Waipara Valley). With 70% whole

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BUYINGGUIDE bunch fermentation in open-top French barrels, backed by baking spice, crushed rose petals, and needs plenty of air before it relinquishes its reduc- this is an ultraprecise wine that is young now a subtle mushroom note. Light to medium bod- tive, oniony grip. With time, the red-berry­ fruit but should age remarkably well. Tones of kirsch, ied, there’s still plenty of zingy acidity at hand to emerges, as do earthy, savory notes like mushroom prunes, mushroom, charcuterie, baking spice and brighten the ripe berry fruit and spice. There’s a and soy sauce, and finally a lick of oak. The rajectoryt­ woodsy, alpine notes flow into a tightly knit pal- little bitter astringency on the finish and not much on the palate is similar, where biting acidity and ate, wound by sappy, savory, ultrafine tannins. This complexity seems to have been gained from time in vice-like tannins dominate, without fleshy fruit to ­serious and food friendly Pinot needs a decantering bottle, but overall this is holding up nicely. Drink temper and soften things. Mt. Beautiful USA. —C.P. if you are cracking open now, but it will reward the now–2025. Cape Ardor LLC. —C.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 most ­patient imbiber for at least the next decade. abv: 14.3% Price: $60 Whanau Imports. Cellar Selection. —C.P. Tinpot Hut 2017 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). abv: 13% Price: $70 Hans Family Estate 2013 Pinot Noir (Marl­ 86 This starts out on the reductive side, with 91 borough). This bottle-aged Pinot walks to barnyard notes dominating, but it opens somewhat Mountford 2014 Estate Pinot Noir (North its own beat. It’s showing a little oxidation on the with time in glass, revealing plump cherries, spicy 94 Canterbury). This Pinot, from North Can- appearance, and a touch of volatility on the nose, notes of cracked pepper and cloves, violets and terbury’s cool climes, has hit its stride. Traditional but this adds an element of complexity to the red damp earth. There’s mealy oak on the underbelly. winemaking from well-established vines makes for currants, strawberries, roses on stems and cinna- The bone-dry palate is on the thin, watery side, a lively, complex yet crowd-pleasing nose of red mon notes. The palate is lightweight, juxtaposing with angular acidity, astringent tannins and lack- berries, cloves, dried flowers and ground white pep- bright fruit and elegance with a grip of austere, ing some depth and fruit concentration. Copa Fina per. The palate is light weight, with a gentle grip slightly astringent tannins that seem more derived Imports CA. —C.P. of spicy, savory tannins, juicy fruit and some well- from the fruit than the barrel. There’s a bitterness abv: 13% Price: $26 placed oak. Balanced with length and poise, this is to the finish, like biting into a grape seed. This is a a charming drop that’s drinking well now and will wine that’s personality-filled but that doesn’t need hold up over the next few years. Whanau Imports. to shout to be heard. Drink now–2023. Cape Ardor CHILE Editors’ Choice. —C.P. LLC. —C.P. abv: 14% Price: $45 abv: 14% Price: $42 CHARDONNAY

Mountford 2015 Estate The Rise Single Vine- Wild Earth 2014 Special Edition Pinot Noir Valdivieso 2018 Single Vineyard Wild 93 yard Pinot Noir (North Canterbury). The low 90 (Central Otago). A selection of two Pinot­ 91 ­Fermented Barrel Aged Chardonnay (Leyda crop vines for this small, North Canterbury-based clones, this still very youthful wine shows an Valley).­ Aromas of lanolin, lightly smoked oak estate grow in active limestone soils. Woodsy notes ­onion-like reductive funk to start but with air even- and mixed white fruits are on the money and pro- of pine, cedar and spice wander amongst brambly tually reveals red- and black-berry fruit, licorice and vide a red-carpet welcoming. On the palate, this is berries, licorice, flowers and vanilla bean. There’s a subtle but distinctive mélange of spices, herbs and medium in body, with a touch of bite. Integrated oak lovely lifted acidity on the palate and spicy, fine tan- campfire smoke. The palate is still tightly wound, blends with flavors of apple, pear and melon, while nins. The barrel shows, along with more wood-spice gripped by taut, ultrasavory tannins and punctu- this delivers latent oak spice on a healthy finish. flavors, but the fruit is bright and silky. Drink now ated by angular acidity. Despite this, there’s a lovely Drink this excellent Leyda Valley Chardonnay now. through 2025. Whanau Imports. —C.P. silkiness to the fruit and obvious clonal character Global Select Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $90 shining through. It would be worth looking at this abv: 14% Price: $23 again in another few years. Drink 2022–2028. Cape Decibel 2017 Single Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mar- Ardor LLC. —C.P. Undurraga 2018 T.H. Terroir Hunter Chardon- 92 tinborough). Pop this in a or give it abv: 13.6% Price: $60 89 nay (Limarí Valley). Aromas of toast, vanilla, some good swirling to really uncoil it aromatically. peach and apple show a barrel influence in front of When it does release its aromas, it’s a characterful Huia 2015 Pinot Noir (Marlborough). This a round palate that’s a bit short on structure. Briny and tasty drop. Think plump brambly berries, warm 88 five-year-old Pinot bottling is on the dense orange and nectarine flavors offer a touch of the sea, stones, mushrooms and roses. It’s medium weight, side, by Marlborough standards, with an autumnal while this is satisfying but slightly hollow on a fin- with fleshy fruit, crunchy acidity and silky tannins. vibe. It needs air for some of the reduction to blow ish that says “drink now.” Freedom Beverage Co. There’s a lovely spiciness that flows through to the off and then it reveals notes of ripe brambly berries, —M.S. finish. Drink now with rustic, fatty, Pinot-friendly dried violets, earthy spices and meaty undertones, abv: 13.5% Price: $22 fare. Whanau Imports. —C.P. with a bit of soapy oak. The palate isn’t as harmoni- abv: 13% Price: $40 ous as one would hope considering the bottle age, Santa Rita 2018 Floresta Chardonnay (Limarí­ but there’s lifted acidity, a grip of dusty tannins and 88 Valley). Apple and melon aromas are fully Wild Earth 2016 Pinot Noir (Central Otago). oak spice amidst the slightly heavy fruit. USA Wine oaked, while this feels plump and melony despite 92 This is a superfruity Pinot that ranks high West. —C.P. showing some malic zap. Flavors of baked apple and in crowd appeal. Red-cherry fruit bounces from the abv: 13% Price: $28 melon are backed by obvious oak, and this main- glass, followed by vanilla bean, licorice, soy sauce tains its DNA on a plump, slightly chunky finish and subtle floral notes. The palate has an autumnal Invivo 2017 Pinot Noir (Central Otago). This that’s creamy in feel but somewhat bitter in flavor. vibe about it, the acidity crunching like fall leaves 88 is a fruity wine that benefits from a bit of Drink now. Delicato Family Wines. —M.S. underfoot and the savory sinewy tannins and earthy swirling in glass to really make those red cherries abv: 13% Price: $35 umami characters juxtaposing silky juicy fruit. Drink and currents pop. Flower stalks, vanilla and baking now and over the next few years. Cape Ardor LLC. spices line the underbelly. It’s fleshy and ripe in the Viña Casablanca 2018 Nimbus Single Vine- —C.P. mouth, medium in weight and has a silky texture 88 yard Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley). Fresh, abv: 13.5% Price: $40 and chalky, spicy tannins—a straightforward but fruity and easygoing is the best way to describe this varietal Pinot. Seaview Imports. —C.P. well-made but standard Casablanca Valley Char- Wild Earth 2012 Earth and Sky Pinot Noir abv: 14.5% Price: $26 donnay. Saline aromas blend with oceanic citrus 92 (Central Otago). This translucent, cherry- scents, while this tastes of lightly salted apple and hued Otago Pinot is showing slight browning at the Lawson’s Dry Hills 2017 Reserve Pinot Noir orange, with a touch of briny citrus peel. Carolina edges due to bottle age, but other than that, is still 87 (Marlborough). This is an austere Pinot that Wine Brands USA. —M.S. bright and vibrant. Plush cherry fruit dominates, may benefit from some time in the cellar. For now, it abv: 14% Price: $15

96 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Siegel 2019 Crucero Collection Chardonnay SB, while this is clean but lacking in complexity on warmth. Ripe flavors of cassis, black cherry and 87 (Colchagua Valley). Melony fruit aromas the finish. 1821 Fine Wines & Spirits. —M.S. licorice finish steady and long, with dry tannins. enter the tropical zone, with a touch of oak in sup- abv: 12.5% Price: $19 This nonvintage winner is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon port. Good acidity propels flavors of tangerine and from 2017 blended with smaller parts of Cabernet green melon, while this deals a hint of spicy oak on Matetic 2019 EQ Coastal Sauvignon Blanc from 2016, 2015 and 2014. Drink through 2025. a healthy finish. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. 88 (Casablanca Valley). Citrus and melon Santa Rita USA Corporation. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 aromas are punchy and a touch grassy, while this abv: 14.5% Price: $40 features a plump mouthfeel with medium acidity. Santa Ema 2019 Select Terroir Reserva Char- Slightly green and bitter flavors of citrus control the Lafken 2017 Single Vineyard Series Cabernet 85 donnay (Maipo Valley). Mild apple and pear flavor profile, while this coastal SB holds its shape 90 Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Aromas of pencil aromas are friendly, while this fresh and easy Chard on a mostly tasteless finish. Quintessential Wines. eraser, dried cherry, cassis and natural spices are shows some roundness in the mouth. Briny stone- —M.S. savory and complex. On the palate, this is syrupy fruit, apple and dry cheese flavors form the sum of abv: 13.5% Price: $20 and held together by dry tannins. Minty, medicinal this. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. plum and berry flavors settle on spicy, and overall abv: 13% Price: $12 Viña Casablanca 2019 Céfiro Cool Reserve this is quite different than the usual big fruit-oak- 88 Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Apple herbal trio that many Chilean Cabernets revert to. Santa Rita 2019 120 Reserva Especial Char- aromas share space on the nose with pyrazines, Copa Fina Imports CA. —M.S. 84 donnay (Central Valley). Aromas of spiced sea brine and matchstick scents. A fairly full pal- abv: 14% Price: $24 applesauce and vanilla come prior to a plump but ate shows some citric zest, while typical Chilean SB soft palate, with low acidity. A somewhat false flavors of citrus fruits, pickle brine and green apple Dos Almas 2017 Famiglia Zonin Gran Reserva woody flavor dominates generic tropical-fruit finish short. Carolina Wine Brands USA.Best Buy. 89 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Aromas notes, while this loses steam on the finish. Delicato —M.S. of rubbery berry fruits, hard spices, raw oak and Family Wines. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $8 wild brush improve with breathing prior to a pal- abv: 13.5% Price: $9 ate with mildly astringent tannins. Oaky flavors of plum and berry include hints of green herbs, coffee Bodegas Tagua Tagua 2019 Chardonnay OTHER WHITE WINE and baking spices, while this feels dry on a finish 83 (Central Valley). Waxy, stalky aromas are that’s short on fruit and length. Drink now. 1821 low on fruit in front of a lean, acidic palate. Dis- Siegel 2019 Special Reserve Viognier (Col- Fine Wines & Spirits. —M.S. tant apple-like flavors are a touch bitter, and overall 88 chagua Valley). Varietally correct aromas abv: 13% Price: $19 this is fresh in feel but just passable with respect to of white flowers, honey and lemon verbena set up a aromas and flavors. Marquee Selections.Best Buy. medium-weight palate with bright acidity and good Scarlet Vine 2017 Selected Hillside Vineyards —M.S. overall balance. Spunky flavors of green grapes are 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Alto). Smoky abv: 13% Price: $6 offset by a slight banana-like sweetness. Consider oak gives this Cabernet a scent of barbecued meat this right for curries and other spicy foods. Kysela along with latex. A full but creamy mouthfeel seems Dos Almas 2018 Famiglia Zonin Gran Reserva Père et Fils. —M.S. worked and not fully natural in texture. Heavy oak 82 Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley). Skunky abv: 14.5% Price: $18 covers minty berry and cherry flavors prior to a apple aromas are woody and clashing. This is lean flush, oaky finish. Delicato Family Wines. —M.S. in body and ultimately empty. Briny flavors of sea- abv: 14% Price: $20 shells and green-citrus fruits finish with cheeky dry SPARKLING WINE tannins. This smells, tastes and feels underripe. 1821 Fine Wines & Spirits. —M.S. Dos Almas NV Brut (Casablanca Valley). ­Onion CARMENÈRE abv: 12.5% Price: $19 81 and garlic aromas are not appealing, while this Chilean sparkler from the Italian Zonin family Caliterra 2017 Tributo Carmenère (Colchagua feels flat as a board, with no lift. Mustard and bitter 92 Valley). Berry and black plum aromas meld SAUVIGNON BLANC green flavors are barely acceptable. 1821 Fine Wines with an herbal accent in this typical Colchagua Val- & Spirits. —M.S. ley Carmenère. On the palate, this is full and dense, Undurraga 2019 T.H. Terroir Hunter Sauvignon abv: 12% Price: $19 with just enough lively acidic pop. Toasty, spicy fla- 91 Blanc (Leyda Valley). For full review see page vors of smoky oak accent a core of blackberry and 18. Editors’ Choice. cassis, while this is long and slightly tannic on a abv: 13.5% Price: $22 CABERNET SAUVIGNON well-focused finish. Drink through 2024. Seaview Imports. —M.S. Errazuriz 2019 Max Reserva Sauvignon Carmen 2017 Gold Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo­ abv: 13.5% Price: $20 90 Blanc (Aconcagua). Lean, punchy aromas of 93 Valley). Composed from the start, this flush celery, jalapeño and citrus fruits include a pop of but supple Cabernet makes favorable points right off Montes 2017 Purple Angel Carmenère (Colch- cool-coast pyrazines. A pure mouthfeel, with crisp- the bat. Full-fledged cassis and spiced plum aromas 92 agua Valley). Savory, saucy blackberry and ness and acidity frames green-leaning flavors of bell are lush but poised and elevated. A forward-leaning black-plum aromas include common Carmenère pepper and tangerine, while this holds the line on a palate with medium-bright acidity and smooth tan- notes of olive, along with charred oak and asphalt. clean finish with latent acidity. Vintus LLC. —M.S. nins stages cherry, plum and cassis flavors that are A shot of tartaric acidity brightens an otherwise abv: 13% Price: $20 long and pure. Chocolate notes appear on a lightly soft and lush palate, while this tastes of blackberry, oaked finish; drink through 2028. Santa Rita USA spiced black plum and resiny oak. An easy finish Dos Almas 2019 Famiglia Zonin Gran Reserva Corporation. —M.S. with soft tannins wraps things up; drink through 88 Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Basic abv: 14% Price: $130 2024. Kobrand. —M.S. green-fruit and briny aromas set up a palate that abv: 14.5% Price: $95 starts out more bright and balanced than it ends. Carmen NV Vintages Blend II Limited Edition Lime and apple flavors are correct for Casablanca 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Plum, Santa Rita 2018 Pewën Carmenère (Apalta). blackberry and cassis aromas are forward and flush 92 A dark and deep purple color complements as they lead to a grabby, concentrated palate with fully ripe and rubbery aromas of blackberry, sage,

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BUYINGGUIDE bell pepper and rain forest. A juicy bolt of tartaric Valdivieso 2018 Valley Selection Gran Dos Almas 2015 Apogeo de Apalta (Colcha- acidity is probing and amplifies flavors of black 88 ­Reserva Carmenère (Rapel Valley). Hard 92 gua Valley). For full review see page 12. Edi- cherry, blackberry and peppercorn. A solid finish spice, tomato and red-bell-pepper aromas indi- tors’ Choice. that doesn’t demand too much closes this Apalta- cate that a leaner, more fiery style of Carmenère is abv: 14.5% Price: $50 raised Carmenère that’s polished but holds onto on tap. Dry tannins toughen the palate in front of its varietal character; drink through 2028. Delicato minty plum and coffee flavors. Not much fruit sticks Lagar de Codegua 2015 Aluvión (Cachapoal Family Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.S. around for the finish. Global Select Wines. —M.S. 92 Valley). This Cabernet Sauvignon-led blend abv: 14% Price: $70 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 opens with grapy blackberry and black-currant aro- mas followed by a fleshy mouthfeel anchored by Valdivieso 2017 Single Vineyard Carmenère rubbing tannins. Cassis and prune flavors echo a 92 (Peumo). Intense aromas of olive, green MERLOT warm vintage, while this is more about ripeness and tobacco, hard spices and black fruits create the nose power than nuance. Lightly blackened flavors drive on this structured Carmenère. Spicy blackberry Bodegas Tagua Tagua 2017 Des Complicados a finish with mild heat. Drink through 2023. Vino and dark-plum flavors are backed by oak and vari- 88 Merlot (Maule Valley). A compact, gritty Del Sol. —M.S. etal green notes, while this tastes minty on a finish nose includes aromas of rubber, asphalt and dark abv: 14% Price: $29 with clarity and length. Drink through 2024. Global plum. A medium-to-full palate is a bit dull and ­Select Wines. —M.S. baked, while plum, raisin and grainy oak flavors are P.S. Garcia 2015 Facundo (Maule Valley). abv: 14% Price: $23 lightly herbal on the finish. Marquee Selections. 92 Initially this blend of Carignan, Cab Franc, —M.S. Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot smells heavy Apaltagua 2017 Grial Carmenère (Apalta). abv: 14.5% Price: $25 and obtuse, with little pop; airing, however, allows 91 Heavily oaked aromas of graphite and wood this warm-vintage red to breathe and express itself. resin blend with saucy, herbal black-fruit scents Château Los Boldos 2017 Vieilles Vignes A plump mouthfeel is full but a touch soft and to form a powerful nose. This Carmenère from the 88 Merlot (Cachapoal Valley). Raw berry and flabby. Deep flavors of black plum, blackberry and Apalta subsection of Colchagua is flush on the pal- plum aromas are furry at first then a touch green oak are saucy, while lightly cooked berry fruit carries ate and pulpy in feel. Blackberry and resiny oak and funky. A tight-fisted palate with popping raw the finish. Drink through 2023. Vine Connections. flavors turn minty on a finish that goes on and on. acidity is lively but scratchy, while oaky berry fla- —M.S. Drink through 2024. Global Vineyard Importers. vors carry an herbal overtone. Dry tannins make for abv: 14% Price: $35 —M.S. a hard, pulling finish that’s both intense and fiery. abv: 14% Price: $75 Evaton, Inc. —M.S. Undurraga 2015 T.H. Terroir Hunter Rarities abv: 14% Price: $20 92 Garnacha-Cariñena-Monastrell (Cauquenes Concha y Toro 2018 Terrunyo Carmenère Valley). For full review see page 15. 91 (Peumo).­ One of Chile’s most consistently Viña Casablanca 2017 Nimbus Single Vineyard abv: 14.5% Price: $35 excellent Carmenères is playing at its normal high 87 Merlot (Casablanca Valley). Herbal aromas of level, with a glistening dark-purple color and spicy, plum and berry fruits show cool-climate stalkiness Casa Donoso 2017 1810 Cabernet Sauvignon- lightly herbal berry aromas that are purely of the and a touch of green. A medium-bodied palate offers 91 Carmenère (Maule Valley). Blackberry and grape variety. Tartaric burn roughens the palate easy access, while this Merlot tastes of herbal plum black-cherry aromas come across hard and tough, prior to flavors of tart plum, wild berry and pepper. and tomato leaf prior to a lively finish that’s spicy but still honest and welcoming. This hot-year blend Slight heat and burn are noted on the finish; drink but shows edginess and burn. Carolina Wine Brands of Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère offers a through 2028. Fetzer Vineyards. —M.S. USA. —M.S. round, mostly smooth palate with controlled tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $15 nins. Spicy black-fruit flavors are accented by mint and cola notes, while hints of tobacco and herbs Santa Rita 2018 Floresta Carmenère (Apalta). Bodegas Tagua Tagua 2017 Reserva Merlot on the finish confirm the wine’s Chilean roots. 91 Spicy cherry aromas are edgy and lively as 86 (Rapel Valley). Stalky, herbal berry and ­Palmateer Wine Group. —M.S. they open for a fresh, loud palate with an aggressive plum aromas settle on earthy, while this Merlot is abv: 13.5% Price: $37 tannic-acid interplay. Plum and wild-berry flavors crisp on a palate with limited depth and breadth. evolve to include saltiness, while a dark and pep- Red-plum and cherry flavors come with peppery TerraNoble 2017 Lahuen (Chile). Dark-berry pery finish shows a flash of burnt oak as this intense spice and dried earth notes, while the finish offers 91 aromas are accented by whiffs of hot pave- Carmenère from Apalta battles to stay elegant and tomato leaf, pepper and stewy flavors. Marquee ment, olive, coffee grounds and stalky herbal notes. classy; drink through 2027. Delicato Family Wines. ­Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. This Cabernet Sauvignon blend benefits from lively —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 acidity, while plum, wild-berry, spice and oak notes abv: 13% Price: $35 are integrated. An edgy finish with oak and cocoa flavors runs long and is brightened by juicy acidity. Viña Chocalan 2017 Gran Reserva Origen­ Car- RED BLENDS Drink through 2024. MundoVino–Winebow. —M.S. 90 menère (Maipo Valley). For full review see abv: 14.5% Price: $38 page 22. Tutunjian 2015 Entre Valles Maipo- abv: 14% Price: $18 93 Colchagua-Maule­ (Chile). Lusty aromas of P.S. Garcia 2017 Bravado (Itata Valley). Ripe black plum, campfire smoke, baking spices and green 90 berry aromas veer towards sunbaked and Santa Ema 2018 Amplus One Carmenère herbs make for a classic Chilean nose, while this raisiny, with hints of licorice and fennel adding 89 (Peumo). Leathery berry aromas are a bit blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère and Malbec­ complexity to the bouquet. A juicy palate is racier stewed, with hints of soy sauce and hoisin. The pal- is stout yet fresh on a lively, ripping palate. A mix than the nose suggests, with pushy currant-like ate-feel is a blend of soupy thickness cut by tartaric of spiced plum flavors, herbal notes and light oak is acidity. Flavors of cranberry, red currant and pep- acidity, while this tastes of green herbs, yesterday’s integrated and singing in unison, while this is long, pery spice wind down on a lively, fiery finish. Drink coffee and peppery berry fruits. A bit murky through- minty and just a touch green on a full finish;­ drink through 2022. Vine Connections. —M.S. out, this is lightly green and oaky on the finish. ­acificP through 2024. The Imported Grape LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 14% Price: $30 Morandé 2017 Mediterráneo (Maule Val- 89 ley). Gritty, earthy berry aromas are very

98 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 much in the Maule profile, while this blend of five perfumed aromas of citrus fruits and snappy pyr- Cerro Chapeu 2018 Reserva Tannat Rhône varieties feels tight and acidic at first, then azines announce a citric palate with blazing acidity. 89 (Uruguay).­ Blackberry and cassis aromas more open and widespread. Spicy plum, currant and Tangerine and orange-peel flavors are on the bitter are lightly oaked, while this is medium to full in herbal flavors plow forward on a straight-lined fin- and oily side, while green flavors and a citric snap body, with tomatoey acidity. Raw plum and currant ish. Grupo Belen USA. —M.S. share the finish. Total Wine & More. —M.S. flavors are fresh and a bit salty, while this Tannat abv: 14.5% Price: $26 abv: 13% Price: $15 is quite dry and tannic on a rubbing finish. MHW, Ltd. —M.S. Oveja Negra 2017 Lost Barrel (Maule Valley). abv: 13% Price: $15 87 Cherry and plum aromas are kind of fluffy TANNAT and vague, with a touch of oak. This Carignan-led Familia Deicas 2019 Atlántico Sur Reserve blend feels wide and lacking in structure. Minty Cerro Chapeu 2017 Batovi T1 Single Vine- 89 Tannat (Uruguay). Ripe blackberry aromas green flavors of plum, currant and buttery oak fin- 93 yard Tannat (Uruguay). Massive dark-berry are a bit cheesy and wild, with a note of dried beef ish with green tannins—possibly a reflection of a aromas range from blackberry to spiced black adding meaty complexity to the nose. A dry, smack- hot vintage that forced a very early harvest. Total cherry. Following the nose, this is flush and lush ing palate with seizing tannins frames earthy black- Beverage Solution. —M.S. but balanced more than just hefty. Chocolaty oak plum and cassis flavors, while this voluminous Tan- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 blends with ripe berry and spice flavors in front nat is anchored by dry tannins on a savory tasting of a smooth, toasty finish with black-coffee notes finish. Drink through 2023. World Brands. —M.S. and welcome acidity. This feels big and rich. Drink abv: 13.5% Price: $22 URUGUAY through 2025. MHW, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $35 Establecimiento Juanico 2019 Don Pascual WHITE BLENDS 88 Coastal Tannat (Uruguay). A darkly con- Artesana 2018 Reserva Tannat (Canelones). centrated color and compact blackberry and black- Cerro Chapeu 2019 Gran Tradición Petit 92 Dark-berry aromas form a nose that’s quite currant aromas open this leathery Tannat. Flavors 89 Manseng-Viognier (Montevideo). Buttery dense. A saturated palate is packed with concen- of blackberry, cassis and spicy beef jerky finish full oak aromas are out front on this barrel-aged Petit trated power, while blackberry and cassis flavors and warm, with notably full tannins providing tex- ­Manseng (with 10% Viognier). A plump palate is are backed by oak that’s slightly charred and warm- tural support and toughness. Cork Alliance. —M.S. ripe and round on first take, then softer and flat- ing. Hence, dark-chocolate and smoky flavors play abv: 14% Price: $15 ter on the back end. Apple, saline, tropical-fruit out on a muscular finish with some tartaric burn. and citrus flavors are a mixed bag, albeit a good Drink this high-level Tannat through 2025. Austral Pueblo del Sol 2019 Roble Tannat (C­anelones). one, while this runs short on the finish. Drink now. Estates Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. 87 A light rusty-red color and dry, gritty red- MHW, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $19 berry aromas indicate a lighter style of Tannat. abv: 14% Price: $25 Crisp, smacking acidity freshens the palate, while Bouza 2018 B6 Parcela Única Las Violetas cherry, plum and distant prune flavors finish steady. Familia Deicas 2019 Preludio Barrel Select 92 Tannat (Canelones). A nearly black color World Brands. Best Buy. —M.S. 88 Lote N°24 (Juanico). A generalized white- and maximumly ripe aromas of cassis, raisin and abv: 12.5% Price: $9 fruit nose leads to a full and round palate whose road tar announce a typical Bouza Tannat that’s heft is balanced by healthy acidity. Chunky flavors saturated and rich. Given the color, nose and 16% Bizarra Extravaganza 2019 Vino Natural of honeydew melon and banana finish warm and weight, it’s no that this is packed to the 86 Anphora Tannat (Uruguay). Heavily reduced with mild oak spice. Drink this full-bodied Char- hilt with pulpy black fruit and tartaric acidity that aromas of new pavement, onion and tire rubber donnay blend now. World Brands. —M.S. helps with balance. Dark flavors of blackberry, cas- take a long time to settle, while this “natural” Tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $40 sis, espresso and chocolate finish warm, rich and nat made and aged in clay anphora feels compact spicy, with a fiery burn. Drink through 2024. Elixir and lacking in breadth. Saucy blackberry flavors are Establecimiento Juanico 2020 Don Pascual Wine Group. —M.S. backed by a linear finish with olive and rubber notes 87 Coastal Albariño Blend (Juanico). Apple and abv: 16% Price: $48 along with savory berry hints. World Brands. —M.S. pear aromas are light and clean, leading to a lively abv: 13% Price: $25 palate, with fleshy roundness offset by snappy acid- Viña Progreso 2016 Old Vines Tannat (Pro- ity. Peach and citrus flavors are tangy, with a touch 92 greso). This small-batch Tannat from the El Capricho 2019 Tannat (Durazno). Ripe of sweetness. On the finish, this patio-friendly­ traditional Progreso subzone near Montevideo 86 aromas of blackberry and black cherry veer ­Albariño blend (containing Chardonnay and opens with bright berry aromas and a sense of bal- into prune territory, while this Tannat is dense and ­Verdejo) is smooth and clean, with a lasting note of anced freshness. The palate is racy but balanced by jammy in feel. Black-currant and prune flavors are a apple. Cork Alliance. —M.S. nicely extracted fruit, while oaky flavors of coffee touch salty, while this feels slightly dried out on the abv: 12.5% Price: $15 and chocolate aid the core blackberry fruit. A supple finish. Lanciano Imports Inc. —M.S. finish with good flow wraps up this attractive red. abv: 13% Price: $15 Drink through 2023. Copa Fina Imports CA. —M.S. OTHER WHITE WINES abv: 14% Price: $31 Familia Deicas 2019 Extreme Vineyards 86 Suelo Invertido Tannat (Uruguay). This site- El Capricho 2020 Verdejo (Durazno). A Aguará 2018 Special Reserve Tannat specific Tannat opens with reduced aromas of olive, 85 cloudy gold color along with waxy, dusty 91 (Durazno). Brambly berry and oak aromas beef soup and sappy black fruits. A high-acid palate apple aromas open this Verdejo. A full, round lead a nose that includes notes of mint, black lico- is raw and narrow, especially for Tannat. Sour-plum mouthfeel loses some steam and turns more flat on rice and peppery spice. This Tannat named after a and grape-skin flavors finish tart and salty. While the back side, while apple and green-melon flavors rarely seen fox seems a touch austere and acidic on not bad, this is definitely lean and seems under- are slightly bitter and suggestive of grape skins. first take, but over time that translates to freshness. nourished. World Brands. —M.S. ­Lanciano Imports Inc. —M.S. Oaky flavors of black fruits have an herbal tomato- abv: 13% Price: $45 abv: 12% Price: $15 like background, while a touch of oaky vanilla flavor helps smooth out a snappy finish. Drink through Pueblo del Sol 2019 Tannat (Canelones). Pisano 2020 Río de los Pájaros Reserve 2024. Lanciano Imports Inc. —M.S. 85 Earthy berry and raisin aromas are more 84 Torrontés­ (Progreso). A light tan color and abv: 14% Price: $45 generous than this Tannat’s lean and racy palate,

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BUYINGGUIDE which rides along on a beam of fresh acidity. Saucy time this youngster has to breathe, the better it Hyde Vineyard 2017 Larry Hyde Vineyard plum and berry flavors are short, while notes of gets. Cork Alliance. —M.S. 94 Estate Chardonnay (Carneros-Napa Valley). tomato, red currant and plum skins drive the finish. abv: 13% Price: $15 Elegant and vibrant, this well-concentrated and World Brands. Best Buy. —M.S. well-balanced wine is well worth finding for the abv: 12.5% Price: $7 most-special occasions. Lemon cream and toasted OTHER RED WINES oak aromas, luscious pear and marzipan flavors and great acidity all come together beautifully. It has a RED BLENDS Bodegones Del Sur 2019 Vineyard Select long finish and will have a long life. Best from 2023. 88 Cabernet Franc (Juanico). Plum and cherry Cellar Selection. —J.G. Bouza 2018 Monte Vide Eu Tannat-Merlot- aromas are clean and presentable, while this Caber- abv: 13.8% Price: $60 91 Tempranillo (Montevideo). Heavy oak aromas net Franc feels fresh, bouncy and smacking. Cherry accompany berry and cassis scents, while this feels and plum flavors come with mild herbal notes in La Follette 2018 Sangiacomo Green Acres thick, jammy and a bit stewy. Said heavy oak is the front of a straightforward finish. Establecimiento 94 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). From the lead element of a baked and woody black-fruit fla- Juanico. —M.S. great coastal site this white is deliciously high- vor profile, while a saturated finish delivers smoky abv: 13.5% Price: $17 toned and structured, with an earthy underbelly. Its notes along with jammy weight. Elixir Wine Group. seamless structure supports a wealth of integrated —M.S. Cerro Chapeu 2018 Reserva Limited Edition Meyer lemon, wet stone and green apple, finishing abv: 15% Price: $64 83 Estate Selection Nebbiolo (Uruguay). This in a balanced note of baking spice and oak. —V.B. varietal Nebbiolo offers up a blender’s worth of funk abv: 13.9% Price: $38 Aguará 2018 Tannat Blend (Durazno). on the nose: compost, onion, wet wool and stewed 90 Blackberry aromas are earthy, full and rich fruit. A tannic palate feels raw, while flavors of scal- LaRue 2018 Charles Heintz Vineyard Char- in front of a jammy palate with meaty tannins and lion, fennel and berry fruits finish dry and tannic. 94 donnay (Sonoma Coast). This is a beauti- weight. Savory, lightly baked blackberry flavors MHW, Ltd. —M.S. fully made white from the cool-climate site, made in are accented by herbal-tea notes, while this blend abv: 13% Price: $20 tiny amounts. Explosive in floral aromas and an array of Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon and T­empranillo of citrus and stone fruit, it offers great texture and finishes smooth and full. Drink through 2024. breadth, with both a flinty aspect of earthiness and a ­Lanciano Imports Inc. —M.S. CALIFORNIA creamy, memorable finish of bold acidity. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $45 abv: 13.1% Price: $60 CHARDONNAY Artesana 2018 Reserva Cabernet Franc-­ Three Sticks 2018 One Sky Chardonnay 90 Merlot (Canelones). Blackberry and crushed Byron 2018 Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardon- 94 (Sonoma­ Mountain). For full review see peppercorn aromas are a bit rough and grating. A 95 nay (Santa Maria Valley). Expertly layered page 9. full mouthfeel is balanced by lively acidity that aromas of toast, fine-grained oak, smoked apple, abv: 14.2% Price: $55 lends balance. Blackberry and cassis flavors are a nectarine, crushed limestone and light butterscotch touch warm and stewy, while this blend of Merlot make for a nose that should please all types of Char- Auteur Wines 2018 Manchester Ridge Char- and Cab Franc is choppy and mildly tannic on a fin- donnay lovers. The palate is immediately hit with 93 donnay (Mendocino Ridge). This multi-­ ish that tastes ever so slightly green. Austral Estates chalky and fresh acidity, leading into lively flavors layered wine smells crisp and tangy like green apples Wines. —M.S. of sliced Asian pear and finishing with an intriguing and minerals before it goes deeper in the flavors, abv: 14% Price: $19 hint of spearmint. —M.K. bringing out vanilla, cream and apple pie. It’s full abv: 13.3% Price: $NA bodied, well balanced and shows great depth. —J.G. Familia Deicas 2019 Extreme Vineyards abv: 14.2% Price: $55 89 Cerro del Guazuvirá (Uruguay). Jammy berry Dutton-Goldfield 2018 Devil’s Gulch Vine- aromas are wooly, furry and candied, while this 95 yard Chardonnay (Marin County). For full B Cellars 2018 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay blend of Tannat, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Viognier review see page 4. Cellar Selection. 93 (Russian River Valley). Rich and brawny up is high in acidity and clamping. Medicinal plum and abv: 13.5% Price: $55 front, in caramel apple, butterscotch and lemon currant flavors show active kick, while pointy acid- meringue, this vineyard-specific white has tropi- ity adds urgency and intensity to the finish. World Three Sticks 2018 Origin Chardonnay cal flourishes and a savory undercurrent of nutmeg. Brands. —M.S. 95 (Sonoma­ Coast). For full review see page 6. ­Ultimately, the acidity wins out, helping pull the abv: 13% Price: $45 abv: 14.1% Price: $55 wine into a complex, balanced frame of delicious length and elegance. —V.B. El Capricho 2019 Tannat Blend (Durazno). B Cellars 2018 Calesa Vineyard Chardonnay abv: 13.7% Price: $55 88 Early aromas of horseradish and mint give 94 (Sonoma Coast). This wine is richly layered way to lightly herbal and grassy berry aromas, and thick on the palate in tropical fruit and butter- Challen 2018 Dierberg Vineyard Chardon- while this blend of Tannat, Tempranillo and Cab- scotch, finding balance on the midpalate with bright 93 nay (Santa Maria Valley). Aromas of orange ernet Sauvignon feels punchy and chewy. Standard acidity and a bit of grip. Flavors of vanilla and peach cream, lemon zest, baked apple, wet chalk and cin- black-fruit flavors show a minty green accent, while play on the lengthy, baking spice-laden finish. —V.B. namon show on the complex nose of this single- this flattens out on a dense finish with tannic grab. abv: 14.1% Price: $55 vineyard expression. There’s compelling tension to ­Lanciano Imports Inc. —M.S. the palate, where a chalky mouthfeel delivers fla- abv: 13% Price: $15 Hirsch Vineyards 2018 Estate Chardonnay vors of orange zest and crisp, tangy lime. —M.K. 94 (Sonoma Coast). This perennially well- abv: 14.5% Price: $48 Establecimiento Juanico 2020 Don Pascual regarded producer is known rightly for Pinot Noir, 88 (Uruguay). Early aromas of briny berry but farms a small four acres of Chardonnay on its Chappellet 2018 Calesa Vineyard Chardonnay fruits and balsamic vinegar settle on jammy rasp- Fort Ross-Seaview site as well. Reductive, nutty and 93 (Petaluma Gap). Juicy and rich in tropical berry and strawberry. Juicy tightness makes for a flinty, it has prominent acidity and is textured and flavors of pineapple and guava, this white is from raw palate feel, while plum, raspberry, cherry and fleshy in grapefruit, lime and apricot, finishing as five blocks of a cool-climate site farmed by Oscar chocolate flavors are lasting on the finish. The more crisp as it starts. —V.B. Renteria. Stone fruit, toasted oak and moderate abv: 13% Price: $60

100 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 acidity keep it fresh and ample in the glass, with to the sip, where lemon blossoms, baked grapefruit is rich and well integrated, tasting of pear, apple supple succulence and length. —V.B. and a touch of brioche flavors converge. —M.K. and pineapple. Notions of butterscotch and crème abv: 14.1% Price: $49 abv: 13.9% Price: $30 brûlée develop in time, adding to the enviable intensity and sublime lushness. —V.B. Chappellet 2018 El Novillero Chardonnay Three Sticks 2018 Gap’s Crown Vineyard abv: 14.5% Price: $48 93 (Carneros). Rich, layered and salty, this 92 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). From the pro- classic white is rounded and juicy in apple, pear ducer’s marquee site, this wine has a bright entry Sleeping Giant 2017 Paige’s Vineyard Chardon- and a lovely concentration of crème brûlée. Made that evolves into a richly layered, sumptuous med- 91 nay (Carneros). Dark in color and offering from one block planted by the Sangiacomo family to ley of caramel toffee and butterscotch. Stone fruit, toasty richness, this is a sublime white, textured Robert Young clone in 1993, it retains a structure of apple and citrus play against the richness with ease, and layered in Meyer lemon and green apple. Great grace and high-toned acidity that balances the over- providing a balanced, seamless whole. —V.B. acidity lifts it throughout a medium-bodied weight all lushness and length. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $55 and expanse. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $49 abv: 14.3% Price: $50 Wrath 2018 Fermata Chardonnay (Mon- LaRue 2018 H. Klopp Vineyard Chardonnay 92 terey). Light, tight and bright on the nose, Stressed Vines 2018 Petersen Vineyard Char- 93 (Sonoma Coast). This lovely white starts this bottling, whose name implies that the malo- 91 donnay (Russian River Valley). Firm acidity with a touch of reduction, opening slowly in the glass lactic fermentation was stopped halfway through, lifts up a tightness of oak in this crisply structured, to reveal crisp, bright acidity and elegant flavors of offers apple cream and melon flesh on the delicate bright white. Meyer lemon, pear and white peach green apple and Meyer lemon. As it develops further, but intriguing nose. There’s a streak of crushed combine to give it a succulence on the midpalate, the brightness continues, complemented by a subtle stone throughout the palate, where lemon zest, finding a way to indulge a richer note of crème richness of Tahitian vanilla and toasted oak. —V.B. lychee and white melon also show. —M.K. brûlée on the finish. —V.B. abv: 12.9% Price: $60 abv: 13.2% Price: $35 abv: 13.5% Price: $40

Newton 2017 Unfiltered Chardonnay (Napa Zaca Mesa 2018 Sierra Madre Vineyard Char- Böen 2018 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara 93 Valley). This 100% barrel-fermented white 92 donnay (Santa Maria Valley). Warm touches 90 County-­Monterey County-Sonoma County). opens in an intriguing landscape of salty stone and of lemon cream and honeysuckle make for a soft For full review see page 18. toasted oak, inviting one in for more. Creamy on the and approachable core to this bottling, yet there are abv: 14.4% Price: $25 palate in balanced weight and breadth, it offers a sharper edges of grapefruit rind on the nose as well. length of green apple, pear and fresh citrus, finishing The palate is framed in a chalky structure, offering Bravium 2019 Chardonnay (Russian River bright and with a dash of nutmeg and clove. —V.B. mellow flavors of peach, lychee and more lemon and 90 Valley). This is a versatile, well-balanced, abv: 14% Price: $55 grapefruit. —M.K. well-made wine. It’s medium to full bodied and abv: 13.9% Price: $35 offers tempting cream and vanilla aromas, mouth- Ancien 2017 Haynes Old Block Chardonnay filling pear and vanilla flavors and a rich texture 92 (Coombsville). This is a barrel-fermented Allan Hancock 2018 Chardonnay (Santa Bar- supported by good acidity. —J.G. white from a great site, tantalizing in citrus and 91 bara County). Lemon-zest, wet clay and chalk abv: 13.4% Price: $22 stone fruit with a hint of just-cut pear. Floral and aromas make for a fresh and mineral-driven nose earthy, it provides ample structure and balanced on this bottling that’s spearheaded by college stu- Davis Bynum 2017 River West Vineyard weight, the tannin and oak held in check. —V.B. dents. There are touches of apple and riper pome 90 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full abv: 14.1% Price: $62 fruit on the palate, but the structure remains taut review see page 19. and grippy into the finish. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Diatom 2019 Bar-M Chardonnay (Santa abv: 12.5% Price: $14 92 Barbara County). Greg Brewer’s wines are De Loach 2017 Stubbs Vineyard Chardon- always intriguing and sometimes challenging, often Claiborne & Churchill 2019 Chardonnay (Edna 90 nay (Petaluma Gap-Marin County). This recasting what one grape can be. This bottling from 91 Valley). Very fresh and tightly wound aro- full-bodied, barrel-fermented wine is excellent in a a vineyard in the Los Alamos Valley leads with dried mas of crisp apple and pear drizzled with lime juice big, oaky style. It overflows with vanilla and baking- lime, wet wool and citrus pith aromas. The palate is make for a brisk entry to the nose of this bottling. spice aromas, and offers rich, buttery, pastry-like laser-focused on citrus peel and pith and yet some- It’s impressively lively on the palate, where that flavors that linger on the finish. —J.G. how also earthy, reflective of damp sand. —M.K. citrus sharpness cuts into the guava and tropical abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 notes. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $34 Domaine de la Rivière 2018 Next Door Neigh- Eden Rift 2018 Reserve Chardonnay (Cienega 90 bor Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For 92 Valley). A rather opulent style of Chardon- Four Vines 2019 Naked Chardonnay (Central full review see page 20. nay aged on 25% new French oak, this reserve bot- 91 Coast). For full review see page 22. Best Buy. abv: 14.1% Price: $62 tling offers buttered peach, macadamia nut, light abv: 13.5% Price: $11 butterscotch and a hint of lemon zest on the nose. Knights Bridge 2018 Estate Unoaked Char- The palate is toasty with baked apple and blistered Raywood 2019 Chardonnay (Central Coast). 90 donnay (Knights Valley). Fermented and almond flavors, which are cut by zesty lemon peel 91 This offshoot of Castoro Cellars in Paso aged in stainless steel, this wine is freshly layered in leading into a pecan finish. —M.K. Robles makes a solid lineup of affordable wines. pear and apple flavors, with a creamy palate that’s abv: 13.8% Price: $64 This is a fresh style of Chardonnay, offering clean both edgy and bright. The lack of oak doesn’t take melon-rind, white-peach and lime aromas. The pal- away from its ability to deliver both straightforward Sante Arcangeli 2018 Chardonnay (Santa ate is bright and tight, with lime peel, honeydew flavor and ample mouthfeel. —V.B. 92 Lucia Highlands). Crushed chalk, zesty lime and a light touch of guava. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 blossom and balm and a lightly minty forest floor abv: 13% Price: $9 component show on the nose of this bottling from La Kopriva 2018 Ricci Vineyard Unoaked Char- Estancia Vineyard. There’s a river-stone minerality Sleeping Giant 2017 Buena Tierra Vineyard 90 donnay (Carneros). For full review see page 91 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Dark in 20. color and salty in oak, this robust, full-bodied white abv: 12.9% Price: $19

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La Follette 2018 Sun Chase Vineyard Char- of more ripe pome fruit and tropical-flower flavors terscotch flavors fill the palate, giving it plenty to 90 donnay (Sonoma Coast). From the high- that are cut by lime zest. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. appreciate. Best Buy. —J.G. elevation site at the top of the Petaluma Gap region, abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $13 this wine is thick and juicy, with an underlying intensity of fruit and body. Flavors of white peach Wolff 2018 Old Vines Chardonnay (Edna Rodney Strong 2018 Knotty Vines Chardon- and pear come to the fore, matching its herbal 89 Valley).­ From a selection of old vines in the 88 nay (California). Underlying acidity pro- earthiness and length of baking spice. —V.B. estate vineyard, this bottling shows dried apple, vides good balance and palate-cleansing properties abv: 13.9% Price: $50 lemon peel and a fat yellow flower on the nose. The to this flavorful, full-bodied but not overblown palate is forward in fruit, offering poached pear, wine. Light toasted oak and earthy aromas lead to Lepe 2018 Village Chardonnay (Carmel Val- baked lemon and browned butter flavors. —M.K. good peachy flavors. —J.G. 90 ley). Peach blossoms meet with lime balm abv: 13.8% Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 and chalk on the nose of this bottling, which com- bines rich tones with a bright acidity. The palate is Chateau Souverain 2018 Chardonnay (Cali- SeatPocket 2019 Chardonnay (Central both slightly viscous and texturally grippy, deliver- 88 fornia). For full review see page 23. Best 88 Coast). Light aromas of lime blossom, jas- ing ripe peach flavors as well as hits of citrus peel. Buy. mine and orange peel are pleasant if simple on the —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $10 nose of this bottling. It’s very easy on the palate abv: 13.6% Price: $35 with lemon-brioche and toasty oak flavors. —M.K. Claiborne & Churchill 2018 Greengate Ranch abv: 13.8% Price: $25 Sequoia Grove 2018 Chardonnay (Napa Val- 88 & Vineyard Chardonnay (Edna Valley). Very 90 ley). Thick, rich and hearty, this wine has mellow on the nose, this bottling offers wet stone, Sunstone 2018 Reserve Chardonnay (Santa prominent oak and creamy texture, an enduring lemon-peel and light pear-flesh aromas. There’s a 88 Ynez Valley). Dried honeysuckle, smoked opulence that appeals. Baked apple and pear flavors light toast to the palate, where yellow-apple-skin oak, lemon blossom, Pink Lady apple and pomelo highlight the midpalate, finishing in a touch of nut- and more lemon-peel flavors make for a clean while peel arise on the nose of this reserve bottling. The meg and vanilla. —V.B. simple sip. —M.K. smoky flavor is even more prominent on the sip, abv: 14.1% Price: $32 abv: 14.1% Price: $34 where the baked apple flavors are wrapped in gener- ous oak. —M.K. Skyside 2018 Chardonnay (North Coast). Crū 2019 Unoaked Chardonnay (Arroyo abv: 14% Price: $45 90 Light earthy, toasty aromas lead to ample 88 Seco). The nose on this unoaked Chardon- Anjou pear and golden-apple flavors in this very nay is very Sauvignon Blanc-like, featuring tonic- Three Girls 2018 Estate Grown Chardonnay agreeable, full-bodied and mouthfilling wine. Very like aromas of lemongrass, cut grass, wild lime and 88 (Lodi). This very ripe and rather oaky wine good balance and no overt oakiness will make it easy jasmine oil. The jasmine element is strong on the offers enticing smoky, toasted-oak aromas and rich, to pair with food. —J.G. sip too, where Thai basil and spearmint flavors also abundant pear, butter and vanilla flavors. Full body abv: 13.4% Price: $20 show. Pair with spicy and fresh Asian food. —M.K. is accompanied by some good juicy acidity giving it abv: 14% Price: $20 decent balance. —J.G. Valle de Inez 2019 Chardonnay (San Luis Obispo abv: 14% Price: $14 90 County). Tightly woven aromas of chalk and Essere Franco 2018 Estate Grown Chardon- lemon syrup drizzled on nectarine show on the nose 88 nay (Coombsville). This is a rich, thickly Vina Robles 2019 Mistral Vineyard Chardon- of this bottling by Doug Margerum. There is a chalky concentrated white, made in a luscious style, that 88 nay (Monterey). This wine is very peachy tension to the palate, where lemon zest and riper shows opulent layers of crème brûlée, baked pear and somewhat viscous on the nose, with hints of orange flavors lead into a stony finish. —M.K. and pineapple. Barrel fermented, it is made in small tuberose and coconut oil. There is a strong amount abv: 13.5% Price: $18 amounts and appeals in its creaminess. —V.B. of acidity on the palate, where extremely tropical abv: 14.8% Price: $60 flavors of guava, plumeria and more coconut arise. Williams & Heim 2018 Chardonnay (Santa —M.K. 90 Lucia Highlands). Seared lemon peel, seared It’s a Headsnapper 2018 Chardonnay (Mon- abv: 14.5% Price: $23 marshmallow, toasted cashew and a hint of marzi- 88 terey County). White-flower, lime-blossom, pan show on the nose of this bottling. The palate apple-flesh and light toast aromas show on the clean Hook or Crook 2019 Vintner’s Select Chardon- blends that richer, toastier tone of nuts, marshmal- nose of this bottling. It’s soft and smooth on the pal- 87 nay (Lodi). This brass-colored wine slathers low and butterscotch with a brighter seared lemon- ate, where peach, lemon-cream and light butter fla- sawn oak and vanilla aromas over a combo of crisp peel kick. —M.K. vors lead into a riper finish.Best Buy. —M.K. and ripe fruit flavors. —J.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $36 abv: 13.9% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $20

Hook or Crook 2019 Reserve Chardonnay Ivory and Burt 2018 certified sustainable LangeTwins 2018 Merrill Vineyard Chardon- 89 (Lodi). Smooth and well balanced, this 88 Chardonnay (Lodi). Quite rich in flavor, this 87 nay (Clarksburg). Rich and ripe flavors like medium-bodied wine offers a seamless combination full-bodied wine offers plenty of vanilla, butter and peaches and pear syrup ride a soft, mouthfilling tex- of crisp apple and generous pear flavors with some baking-spice flavors on a rather soft creamy texture. ture in this full-bodied wine. —J.G. complexing elements of butter and vanilla. —J.G. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $24 abv: 13.5% Price: $24 abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Maggio 2019 Chardonnay (Lodi). Quite ripe- My Story 2019 Chardonnay (Paso Robles). Montoya 2019 Chardonnay (Monterey). F­or 87 tasting and mouthfilling, this full-bodied 89 For full review see page 22. 88 full review see page 23. Best Buy. wine pours on the poached pear flavors and accents abv: 13.4% Price: $17 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 them with vanilla and nutmeg on a soft texture.Best Buy. —J.G. NSO By Dusty Nabor 2019 Chardonnay Old Soul 2019 Estate Grown Chardonnay abv: 14% Price: $10 89 (Sta. Rita Hills). It’s quite stunning that 88 (Lodi). A steely, dusty aroma starts this this brand can make wines from all-star appella- full-bodied wine off, then rich, ripe pear and but- Toad Hollow 2019 Francine’s Selection tions at this price point. In this bottling, aromas of 87 ­Unoaked Chardonnay (Mendocino County). ­plumeria, ripe pear and wet stone lead into a palate This uncomplicated, medium-bodied wine offers

102 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 straightforward crisp apple flavors and a hint of but- thick texture define this full-bodied, mouthcoating immediately cut by grass, pepper herbs and guava ter. Good acidity keeps it refreshing on the palate. wine. The vanilla and melted butter flavors don’t let skin. —M.K. —J.G. much fruit come through in this pastry-like pour. abv: 13.9% Price: $30 abv: 13.9% Price: $15 Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $6 Noble Vines 2019 242 Sauvignon Blanc (Mon- Barefoot NV Chardonnay (California). For 91 terey). For full review see page 22. Best Buy. 86 full review see page 24. Best Buy. Tailor Made 2018 Creamy Chardonnay (Cali- abv: 14.5% Price: $13 abv: 13% Price: $7 84 fornia). Aromas of butterscotch and cot- ton candy precede heavy baking-spice flavors from Red Mare 2017 Gamble Vineyard Sauvignon Bucket List NV Chardonnay (California). vanilla to nutmeg that coat over any fruit flavors 91 Blanc (Yountville). Hearty with body weight 86 This low-key but well-balanced wine that might lie underneath. It plays a one-note, oaky and pronounced oak, this white succeeds in finding blends good ripe apple and peach flavors with hints song. —J.G. a complex balance between opulence and nuanced of vanilla and butter that don’t overwhelm. Best abv: 13.5% Price: $16 ­elements of green apple, lime and vanilla. Robust Buy. —J.G. and lengthy, it showcases the site and winemaker’s abv: 13.5% Price: $8 Rotation Vineyards 2019 Chardonnay (Lodi). skill in a warm vintage. —V.B. 82 Earthy aromas and milky, lemony flavors abv: 13.7% Price: $24 Lorenzi Estate 2018 Dijon Clone 76 Extended don’t quite come together in this medium-bodied 86 Barrel Aged Chardonnay (Temecula Valley). wine. —J.G. Retzlaff 2018 Family Reserve Old Vine Estate Clean lines of peach and pear skins meet with apple abv: 13.5% Price: $16 91 Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Livermore Valley). sauce and sea salt on the nose of this bottling. The For full review see page 17. extended barrel aging seems to have sucked some Brownstone NV Chardonnay (California). This abv: 13.9% Price: $42 vibrancy out of the wine, as the palate shows baked 81 soft wine has very little color, feels rich and apple, vanilla and very strong oak tones. —M.K. thick on the palate, and its flavors of pear syrup and Amici 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa County). abv: 14.65% Price: $45 canned peaches carry some sweetness. —J.G. 90 With 3% Sémillon, this is tart, textured and abv: 14.5% Price: $9 cohesive, densely layered in lime and lychee, with Martin Ranch 2017 Therese Vineyards Griva an underlying earthiness of dried herb. Medium 86 Vineyard Chardonnay (Arroyo Seco). Mud- bodied, it has a subtle lushness that appeals. —V.B. dled lemon, dried apple, pungent smoke and a hint of SAUVIGNON BLANC abv: 14.1% Price: $25 toasted nuts show on the nose of this bottling. Dried flavors of apple and lemon rind meet with melon on La Pelle 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- Cuvaison 2019 Estate Grown Sauvignon the palate. —M.K. 95 ley). For full review see page 5. Editors’ 90 Blanc (Los Carneros). For full review see abv: 14.3% Price: $35 Choice. page 19. abv: 12.5% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Mirassou 2017 Chardonnay (California). This 86 full-bodied wine is especially smooth and Joseph Phelps 2019 Estate Grown Sauvignon Dutton Estate 2019 Kylie’s Cuvée Sauvi- soft, almost thick in texture, filling the palate with 94 Blanc (St. Helena). Offering tremendous 90 gnon Blanc (Russian River Valley). Tank unctuous vanilla, banana and cream notes. —J.G. value for the price, this is a lively, seamless and tex- fermented, this white is steely, stony and fresh, a abv: 13.9% Price: $12 tured white wine from estate grapes that shows ele- nicely structured celebration of pear, melon and gance and length. Green apple, apricot and lemon- apple blossom. Textured, it is medium bodied and Spellbound 2019 Chardonnay (Califor- grass highlight a sublime core of integrated finesse balanced in acidity and fruitiness. —V.B. 86 nia). This pleasant, easygoing wine blends and complexity. Editors’­ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $27 vanilla, butterscotch and ripe apple flavors on a abv: 14.1% Price: $45 medium body. It is smooth and soft in texture. —J.G. G & C Lurton 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Lail 2019 Blueprint Sauvignon Blanc (Napa 90 County). A sleek, crisp white wine fer- 94 Valley). For full review see page 7. mented in a majority of stainless steel, this is lay- Cocobon 2018 Roasted Oak Chardonnay abv: 14.1% Price: $40 ered nicely in bright apple, lemon and lychee fla- 85 (California). Strong charred oak aromas and vors, with a lasting sense of wet stone. —V.B. flavors are backed by butter and vanilla undertones Cadre 2019 Stone Blossom Sauvignon Blanc abv: 13.9% Price: $25 in this obvious and oaky wine. Best Buy. —J.G. 93 (Edna Valley). Lemongrass, lime-sorbet, wet abv: 13.5% Price: $7 grass, light bell-pepper and lily aromas are remi- Hawley 2019 Hopkins River Ranch Sauvi- niscent of walking through a springtime meadow 90 gnon Blanc (Russian River Valley). Lime, Imagery 2018 Chardonnay (California). A on the nose of this bottling by John Niven, whose lemon and salty wet stone combine invitingly in 85 steely, mineral aroma leads to toasted nut family pioneered the Edna Valley. The palate is this crisp white wine, tart in lasting acidity. Light and butter flavors in this medium-bodied wine. zesty with green grass, shiso chiffonade and minced bodied and balanced in ripeness, it develops further A soft texture carries ripe but vague fruit flavors. jalapeño flavors, with a lingering white-pepper ele- characteristics of green apple, melon and peach as it —J.G. ments into the acid-sizzled finish. —M.K. opens in the glass. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $28 abv: 13.9% Price: $25

Montagne Russe 2018 Farina Vineyard Char- Cannonball 2018 Eleven Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Kaena 2017 La Presa Vineyard Sauvignon 85 donnay (Sonoma Mountain). With an inten- 91 Creek Valley). For full review see page 16. 90 Blanc (Los Olivos District). Lemon-peel, sity of cinnamon and oak, this wine is thick and abv: 14.1% Price: $23 melon-flesh, Pink Lady apple and white-pepper aro- intensely built, with a creaminess on the texture mas show on the nose of this bottling. Dried grass that finishes flat. —V.B. Kaena 2018 La Presa Vineyard Sauvignon and lime pith meet with white flower flavors on the abv: 14.1% Price: $35 91 Blanc (Los Olivos District). Clean and inviting palate, which finishes with a citrus tang. —M.K. aromas of Meyer lemon, lime peel, peach, guava and abv: 13.9% Price: $30 Winemakers Selection 2019 Chardonnay sansho pepper show on the nose of this bottling. The 85 (California). Buttery flavors and an extra- palate hits with a light stone-fruit ripeness but is

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Knights Bridge 2019 Pont De Chevalier Sau- palate and has enough concentration for a lingering flavors of pineapple and guava that lead to a finish of 90 vignon Blanc (Knights Valley). Made in a finish. —J.G. lemon candy. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. sweetly effusive and rich style, this tastes of mango, abv: 13.9% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 pineapple and a hint of vanilla, the oak minimal and well integrated. —V.B. Textbook 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- Flora Springs 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa abv: 14.5% Price: $40 90 ley). Smoothly integrated and soft on the 88 Valley). Thick and meaty on the palate, this palate, this well-made white is light in style and white opens in a sweetness of white peach on the La Crema 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma brimming in fruity peach and apricot. It has a touch nose, following through on the palate with a dry 90 County). Given time in both oak and stain- of grass and dried herb on the finish that contrast tartness of lemon peel and melon. Creamy with a less steel, this lively white is grassy and lively in against the fruit. —V.B. touch of crispness, it finishes with a light accent of stone fruit, with an enduring crispness to the tex- abv: 13.6% Price: $25 baking spice. —V.B. ture. Bright and food-friendly, it offers wide appeal abv: 14.2% Price: $30 and elegance. —V.B. Whitehall Lane 2019 Sauvignon Blanc abv: 13.5% Price: $25 90 (Rutherford). With 11% Sémillon, this Highway 12 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma white is balanced in acidity and weight, with a vis- 88 County). Robustly tropical, this likable Lava Cap 2019 Estate Bottled Sauvignon cosity that presents as opulent and lush. Stone fruit, white is creamy in peach, pineapple and guava, with 90 Blanc (El Dorado). For full review se page Meyer lemon and green apple accent a lengthy, com- a dense richness and enduring likability. —V.B. 20. plex palate of varietal expression and exuberance. abv: 13.9% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $20 —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $25 Michael David 2019 Whole Cluster Pressed Markham 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- 88 Stainless Sauvignon Blanc (Lodi). Ripe 90 ley). With 3% Sémillon and mainly stain- Bliss 2019 Estate Bottled Sauvignon Blanc green-apple and lemon-lime flavors converge in this less-steel aged, this medium-bodied white is juicy 89 (Mendocino). For full review see page 23. richly textured but not heavy wine. It’s smooth on and lengthy, likable in its immediate approachabil- Best Buy. the entry and has enough good acidity to keep it ity. Pear, peach and passion fruit highlight the expe- abv: 13.5% Price: $14 lively on the palate. —J.G. rience on the palate, the wine made from certified- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 sustainable grapes. —V.B. Guenoc 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (California). abv: 14.1% Price: $25 89 For full review see page 23. Best Buy. Oberon 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley).­ abv: 13.5% Price: $10 88 With nearly 25% Sauvignon Musque, Paradise Ridge 2019 Grandview Sauvignon this white is earthy and concentrated in flavors of 90 Blanc (Russian River Valley). Grassy and LangeTwins 2019 Estate Grown Musque ­legume and Meyer lemon. Grapefruit and stone fruit herbal, this resplendent white is creamy on the pal- 89 Clone Sauvignon Blanc (Lodi). Effusive floral follow on the steely palate, finishing in a swirl of ate in a refined richness of ripe peach with a trail and fruit-bowl aromas lead to fresh, tangy lemon- lemongrass and vanilla. —V.B. of vanilla. Made in a lush style, it retains plenty of zest and grapefruit flavors in this light-bodied wine. abv: 13.7% Price:­ $19 underlying acidity to remain fresh and focused in It’s something bright and palate-cleansing for the the glass. —V.B. cocktail hour. —J.G. St. Supéry 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa abv: 13.4% Price: $22 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 88 Valley).­ Made in a rich, rounded style, this has lovely layers of peach, apricot and lemon chiffon, Paradise Ridge 2019 Vineyard Select Sauvi- Silver Spur 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake leading to a soft, supple and seamless finish. —V.B. 90 gnon Blanc (Russian River Valley). Light and 89 County). Classic varietal aromas of snap abv: 13.5% Price: $22 bright with a creamy underlying palate of smooth peas and citrus lead to vibrant, fruity and herba- richness, this impressive white shows a wealth ceous flavors that are absolutely fresh and appeal- Sterling 2018 Vintner’s Collection Sauvi- of passion fruit and guava flavor. It’s ready to be ing. There is just enough acidity to deftly balance 88 gnon Blanc (California). This is a smooth, enjoyed at the table or as an apéritif. —V.B. the fruitiness. —J.G. but lively and fruity wine, emphasizing honeydew abv: 13.4% Price: $28 abv: 13.8% Price: $18 melon and light kiwifruit notes. It’s clean and fresh but also rich and mouthfilling for the varietal.Best Red Mare 2016 Alpha Mare Sauvignon Blanc Badger Hound 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Rus- Buy. —J.G. 90 (Napa Valley). Though not labeled as such, 88 sian River Valley). A stainless-steel fer- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 this is 100% Sauvignon Blanc, given time in bottle mented and aged white, this is steely and citrus- to become a cohesive, richly layered wine of good driven in grapefruit, Meyer lemon and melon. Sleek Barefoot NV Sauvignon Blanc (California). balance and complexity. Meyer lemon, white-flower and crisp, it continues the brightness theme in a 87 For full review see page 23. Best Buy. and tangerine flavors contrast against honey and finishing touch of tangerine. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $7 brioche. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $20 abv: 14.2% Price: $38 Cline 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (North Coast). Charles B. Mitchell 2019 Estate Reserve 87 This deceptively full-bodied wine offers Schug 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma 88 Fumé Blanc (Fair Play). This tangy, lemony light petrol and earth aromas followed by peach- 90 Coast). Crisp, lively and textured, this and light-bodied wine seems rather lean at first sip skin and peach-flesh flavors on a juicy, appetizing white delivers balanced flavors of white peach and yet it offers dabs of vanilla and nutmeg along with texture. It’s lively, flavorful and different. —J.G. tangerine, offering nice length, breadth and under- good acidity and refreshment on the palate. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $13 lying acidity. —V.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $21 abv: 13.2% Price: $25 OneHope 2018 Fumé Blanc (Rutherford). Dry Creek Vineyard 2019 Fumé Blanc (Sonoma­ 87 Textured and intensely flavored, this tastes Shannon Ridge 2019 Urgency Sauvignon 88 County). Stainless-steel fermented and of tart lemon, grapefruit and guava. Full bodied and 90 Blanc (Lake County). This superflavorful inspired by the wines of the Loire Valley, this is a overtly ripe, it packs a lasting punch of concentra- wine is definitely an extrovert. It practically shouts grassy, herbal white with enduring freshness and tion and weight. —V.B. out fresh herb and veggie aromas followed by tangy wide appeal. Value priced, it offers lovely, integrated abv: 14.5% Price: $45 citrus flavors. It feels zingy and nicely acidic on the

104 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Imagery 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (California). Zaca Mesa 2018 Viognier (Santa Ynez V­alley). 86 This smooth and straightforward wine is VIOGNIER 90 Dried apple and honeysuckle meet with medium bodied, fairly neutral in flavor and easy to lemon peel on the nose of this bottling from a sip. —J.G. Terre Rouge 2018 Viognier (Fiddletown). regional Rhône pioneer. The palate is fresher, offer- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 94 Mineral, peach skin and apricot are just a ing apple and pear flavors atop a persistent acidity. few of the aromatic nuances that give this full-bod- —M.K. Montgomery Estates 2018 Sauvignon Blanc ied and well-balanced wine a fascinating Old World abv: 14.2% Price: $25 86 (Napa Valley). This white is thick and oaky, expression. Fresh acidity braces peach and apricot with citrus-driven fruitiness. Medium bodied, it flavors while the mouthfeel broadens with each sip. Vina Robles 2019 Huerhuero Vineyard Viog- has a twist of legume and grassiness on the finish. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. 89 nier (Paso Robles). This is a very exuberant —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 style of Viognier, from the aromatics and flavors to abv: 14.2% Price: $45 the acidity and texture. Aromas of peach, guava, Le Casque 2019 Damiano Vineyard Viognier tuberose and Stargazer lily kick off the nose, lead- SeatPocket 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Califor- 92 (Placer County). Aromas of citrus flowers ing into a palate that is very fresh while loaded with 86 nia). Dried grapefruit-peel and light basil and flavors of ripe pear and marzipan make this bubblegum and guava flavors. —M.K. aromas show on the nose of this bottle. The palate full-bodied, barrel-fermented wine tempting and abv: 13.5% Price: $20 it a bit flat in texture, offering flavors of lime peel delicious. A creamy texture, good depth of flavor and . —M.K. and lingering finish all contribute to its impressive abv: 13.5% Price: $20 quality. —J.G. GRENACHE BLANC abv: 14.1% Price: $30 SIX26 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Ridge 2019 Adelaida Vineyard Grenache 86 Coast). Dried grass, lime-peel and green- Table Eleven 2019 Quail Valley Vineyard 93 Blanc (Paso Robles). Very fresh and pure sage aromas make for a typical nose on this bottling. 92 Viognier (Los Olivos District). Crisp and aromas of honeysuckle, coconut cream and a light The palate is a tad sweeter, with riper apple flavors fresh on the nose, this bottling begins with light kiss of wood show on the nose of this unique bot- and not much acidity. —M.K. honeysuckle and plumeria aromas that are held in tling, which includes 18% Picpoul and 5% Rous- abv: 13.8% Price: $29 place by a citrusy edge of Meyer lemon peel. That sanne. The wine is expertly balanced on the palate, tension carries through the sip as well, where Anjou which is smooth with honeydew yet flecked with Sonoma Collection 2019 Wines for Lunch and Asian pear-flesh flavors are framed by a chalky flashes of lime peel.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. 86 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Valley). Steely backbone and a zesty Key lime acidity. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $30 and high-toned in citrus-driven flavors of lime and abv: 14.5% Price: $25 grapefruit, this wine is light bodied and simple in Dovecote 2019 Thompson Vineyard Estate approach. —V.B. Crū 2019 French Camp Vineyard Viognier 91 Grenache Blanc (Alisos Canyon). For full abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 91 (Paso Robles Highlands District). For full review see page 16. review see page 16. abv: 13.8% Price: $35 Bella Grace 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Ama- abv: 13.9% Price: $20 85 dor County). Bright aromas of bananas and Kaena 2018 Tierra Alta Vineyard Grenache bubble gum make this fruity, medium-bodied wine Hungry Hawk 2019 Viognier (San Diego 91 Blanc (Ballard Canyon). Tangy lemon-peel an outlier. It’s a gushing, effusive style of Sauvignon. 91 County).­ Few San Diego County wineries are aromas meet with richer tones of melon, honey- —J.G. exploring the terroir as diligently as this family-run suckle and peach on the nose of this bottling. Fresh abv: 13.5% Price: $20 winery. This estate bottling is fresh yet rich, with acidity kicks off the palate, where rounded peach light peach and creamy lemon aromas. The palate flavors lead into a finish awash in tart citrus tension. Dogwood & Thistle 2019 Sauvignon Blanc is clean and full, with more peach and apple-pie —M.K. 85 (Mendocino Ridge). This rather light-bodied ­flavors. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $30 wine shows a strong dried garlic aroma, followed by abv: 13.5% Price: $36 onion and dried herb flavors. —J.G. Le Casque 2019 Grenache Blanc (Sierra Foot- abv: 13.6% Price: $22 Dovecote 2019 Quail Valley Vineyard Viog- 90 hills). This medium-bodied wine is fash- 90 nier (Los Olivos District). Steely aromas of ioned in a richer style than many, offering tempt- Lucky Rock Wine Co. 2019 County Cuvée Sau- cold metal meet with a light hint of peach on the ing lemon-zest aromas and generous pear and fresh 85 vignon Blanc (Sonoma County). Thick in tightly wound nose of this bottling. That taut sense apple flavors. A luscious mouthfeel and an addition melon and apricot flavors, this white has a metallic carries to the palate, which also offers more gener- of 18% Picpoul Blanc add to its charm. —J.G. edge and enduring earthiness. —V.B. ous flavors of stewed pome fruit. —M.K. abv: 13.3% Price: $28 abv: 13.7% Price: $17 abv: 14.3% Price: $35 Moniz Family 2019 Grenache Blanc (Califor- OneHope 2018 Estate Grown Sauvignon Dovecote 2018 Quail Valley Vineyard Estate 87 nia). This is a spare and tangy wine that 85 Blanc (Rutherford). This white has a can- 90 Viognier (Los Olivos District). For full review holds its apple-skin and flint flavors pretty tightly. died quality and a lingering flavor of sour lemon. see page 20. Vivid acidity makes it a great palate cleanser. —J.G. Stainless-steel fermented and aged, it finishes in a abv: 14.9% Price: $35 abv: 13% Price: $15 crisp last note of green apple. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $35 Sapien 2018 Viognier (Santa Ynez Valley). 90 Toasty aromas of baked nectarine, dried ROUSSANNE Prix 2018 Moskowite Ranch Reserve Sauvi- white flowers and light nuts show on the nose of 84 gnon Blanc (Napa Valley). This wine tastes this bottling. There’s a line of alkalinity to the sip, Bolt To Wines 2018 Roussanne (Ballard candied in lemon, lime and grapefruit, with a crisp where dried lime and orange-rind flavors meet with 91 Canyon).­ Roussanne can be a challenge, but tartness that is slightly out of proportion to the per- a hint of guava peel. —M.K. it’s deftly handled here, starting with aromas of ceived sweetness. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $32 dried yellow flowers, a touch of peach and a bit of abv: 13.7% Price: $45 marzipan on the nose. There is a waxy heft to the sip, as there should be, yet also a tension to rein in

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BUYINGGUIDE the dried peach, pear, sea-salt and walnut flavors. Sterling 2018 Vintner’s Collection Pinot som and pineapple guava show on the nose of this —M.K. 85 Grigio­ (California). This light-bodied wine refreshing bottling. It’s zesty and lively on the abv: 13.5% Price: $28 is refreshing and clean but almost neutral in flavor, youthful palate, where pineapple and guava flavors offering faint lemon and cucumber notes. —J.G. are cut by lime peel and grapefruit zest, with a hint Le Casque 2019 Roussanne (Sierra Foothills). abv: 13.5% Price: $12 of spicy ginger toward the finish. —M.K. 91 This attractive, full-bodied wine offers sub- abv: 14.1% Price: $28 tlety in flavor, richness in texture and a good sense Tree Fort 2019 Pinot Grigio (Paso Robles). of concentration that gives it length on the finish. 85 Light herbs and dried grass show on the Allan Hancock 2018 Albariño (Santa Barbara It’s a good bet for cellaring, since time should open nose of this bottling. The palate is somewhat flat 90 County). Lime-peel, green-lily, honeydew- up more mineral and lanolin notes. Best from 2022. in texture but delivers acceptable flavors of Granny rind and jasmine aromas make for a nearly tropical —J.G. Smith apples and more dried grass. —M.K. expression on the nose of this bottling by abv: 13.7% Price: $28 abv: 13% Price: $17 and enology students. Key lime flesh and makrut lime leaf flavors pop on the fresh palate.Best Buy. Holly’s Hill 2019 Estate Roussanne (El Terra d’Oro 2019 Pinot Grigio (Clarksburg). —M.K. 90 Dorado).­ Bright aromas and flavors of Anjou 84 Lively green-apple aromas meet heavier abv: 12.8% Price: $14 pear and Gravenstein apple make this medium- flavors and a thick texture in this full-bodied wine. bodied wine lively and satisfying. It feels relatively —J.G. Croma Vera 2019 Spanish Springs Vineyard light in mouthfeel and is absolutely refreshing and abv: 12.5% Price: $17 90 Albariño (San Luis Obispo County). Pear appetizing. —J.G. peels, apple flesh and a squeeze of lime make for abv: 13.2% Price: $22 a crisp and fresh nose on this bottling. The tense RIESLING palate combines more pome fruit with citrus pith, climaxing in a grippy finish. —M.K. PINOT GRIGIO Claiborne & Churchill 2018 Claiborne Vine- abv: 14.1% Price: $27 93 yard Estate Dry Riesling (Edna Valley). For Bota Box 2019 Pinot Grigio (California). This full review see page 9. Crū 2019 Albariño (Edna Valley). For full 88 wine has more flavor than many of its com- abv: 12.5% Price: $28 89 review see page 22. petitors, boasting bright peach and ripe melon in abv: 13.9% Price: $20 the aroma and satisfying white peach on the pal- Talley 2019 Riesling (Edna Valley). Tight ate. It’s medium bodied and mouthfilling.Best Buy. 92 aromas of lime, grapefruit and rainy cement Moniz Family 2019 St.Cin Albariño (Cali- —J.G. show on the nose of this brisk bottling. There’s a flash 89 fornia). Flowers, apricot and flint are the abv: 12% Price: $23/3 L of sweetness on the palate but it tightens quickly key aromas and flavors of this crisp, appetizing, around nectarine, peach and seared orange flavors, medium-bodied wine. It is bright and refreshing Hungry Hawk 2019 Pinot Gris (San Diego extending into a very long and textural finish. —M.K. and should be versatile in food pairings. —J.G. 88 County). Clean aromas of wet stone, lime abv: 12.5% Price: $34 abv: 13% Price: $15 and nectarine show on the crisp nose of this bot- tling. There is a strong sizzle at the front of the sip, Tatomer 2018 Vandenberg Riesling (Santa Garcia 2019 Santa Ynez Vineyard Albariño which drops into riper flavors of pear and apple. 92 Barbara County). Aromas of dried and wet 88 (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). There’s a —M.K. grass, pomelo zest, lime peels and dried seaweed richness to the nose of this bottling, with aromas abv: 13% Price: $30 show on the nose of this bottling. There’s a flash of of baked apple, white flowers and a toasty coconut richness on the palate before the green-peppercorn, element. The palate is ripe with honeysuckle and Sand Point 2019 Pinot Grigio (California). Mandarin orange and light dairy flavors come across baked peach flavors, proving viscous in texture and 88 Lively and well-concentrated, too, this the sizzling texture. —M.K. the slightest bit sweet, with a toasty finish. —M.K. ­medium-bodied wine has good acidity to make it abv: 13% Price: $28 abv: 13.9% Price: $22 appetizing and plenty of tasty green-apple, white- peach and apricot flavors to savor.Best Buy. —J.G. Wolff 2017 Riesling (Central Coast). Intrigu- Kaena 2018 La Presa Vineyard Albariño abv: 12% Price: $11 91 ing aromas of honey, lemon, citrus pith, tan- 88 (Santa Ynez Valley). Dried apple flesh, lime- gerine paste and white flowers show on the nose of peel and a touch of apple-blossom aromas show on Bucket List NV Pinot Grigio (California). A this bottling. There is ample acidiy to the palate, the nose of this bottling. Pear and apple-juice fla- 86 rich texture makes this wine more mouthfill- yet the mouthfeel remains viscous, offering hints of vors appear on the sip, which is smooth rather than ing and expansive than many. It boasts tasty, seem- petrol, lemon peel and orange cream on this smooth, taut in texture. —M.K. ingly sweet honeydew-melon and peach flavors.Best weighty expression. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $30 Buy. —J.G. abv: 12.7% Price: $23 abv: 12% Price: $8 Bannister 2018 Cole Ranch Riesling (Men- WHITE BLENDS Mirassou Sun 2019 Pinot Grigio (California). 88 docino County). Rather rich in mouthfeel 86 This light-bodied wine could pass for a but also tangy, this orange wine shows a true-to- Arietta 2019 Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon Riesling, with its not unpleasant petrol aroma and type brassy color and offers ripe peach and floral 95 (Napa Valley). A blend of 74% Sauvignon lean peach and apricot flavors. —J.G. aromas followed by mild orang- zest and dried apri- Blanc and 26% Sémillon, this superb white is abv: 13% Price: $12 cot flavors. It dampens the typical varietal flavors, robust and complex, with a sophisticated struc- but is well made, fun and different. —J.G. ture and lively underlying acidity. Hints of nutmeg, Winemakers Selection 2019 Pinot Grigio abv: 12.1% Price: $28 honey and flint meet a serious palate of tension and 86 (California). This fruit bowl of a wine length. —V.B. is packed with apples, peaches and melons on a abv: 14.9% Price: $65 smooth, soft texture that brings a sensation of ALBARIÑO­ sweetness on the finish.Best Buy. —J.G. Kaena 2018 Hapa Blanc (Santa Ynez ­Valley). abv: 12.5% Price: $6 Cadre 2019 Sea Queen Albariño (Edna ­Valley). 92 Mikael Sigouin uses a rich-yet-blend of 93 Aromas of peach blossom, apple blos- 50% Roussanne, 25% Viognier, 17% Grenache

106 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Blanc and 8% Albarino to craft a great Chardonnay Cadre 2019 Band of Stones Grüner Veltliner Chuparosa 2019 Kohill Vineyard Semillon alternative. Aromas of baked apple, tangerine peel, 93 (Edna Valley). When his pioneering wine 85 (Ramona Valley). Sémillon is a tough grape white melon and toast lead into an oily palate that family sold off its large brands, John Niven started to work with solo, and this wine, which is golden offers cashew cream and light marzipan flavors, cut his own small project, and the early results are in the glass, smells of oxidized apple juice, orange by citrusy acidity. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. stunning. Best is this Gruner Veltliner, which begins rind and dried mango. There’s an oily quality to the abv: 13.9% Price: $30 with clean and sharp aromas of lime skin, white palate, which is flat in texture and showing similar pepper and green apple peels. The palate is tense notes as the nose. —M.K. Le Casque 2019 Adrian (Sierra Foothills). and green in pome and citrus fruits, with a touch abv: 12.5% Price: $28 92 Great depth, layering and complexity make of briny kelp that coasts into the acid-driven finish. this full-bodied wine something to linger over. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. Notes of pear, cream and vanilla harmonize on a abv: 14.2% Price: $28 SPARKLING WINES nicely viscous texture that extends the finish. It’s a blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Picpoul Vina Robles 2019 Huerheuro Vineyard Thacher 2013 Blanc de Blanc Extended Blanc. —J.G. 92 V­ermentino (Paso Robles). Very light in the 94 ­Tirage Hastings Ranch Vineyard (Adelaida abv: 13.5% Price: $30 glass, this bottling is incredibly aromatic in all the District). Lively aromas of crisp apple, lychee, lemon right ways, offering just enough hints of jasmine, peel, jasmine and apricot blossom show on the nose St. Supéry 2018 Virtú Estate Bottled Semil- plumeria and coconut oil as well as a brisk line of of this sparkling Viognier, which spent six years en 92 lon-Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). For full citrus peel. The palate is vibrant with acidity and tirage. The complexity comes through on the palate, review see page 15. —V.B. scintillating texture, which balance the tropical where apple-skin and lemon-flesh flavors meet with abv: 13.5% Price: $30 tones of tuberose and plumeria extract. Editors’ the wet stone minerality. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $60 Revelshine 2019 White Blend (Russian River abv: 13.5% Price: $20 91 Valley). Presented in a 500 ml aluminum Schramsberg 2017 Blanc de Blancs Méthode bottle that’s refillable and recyclable, vintner Broken Earth 2019 Limited Release Fiano 93 Traditionnelle Brut (North Coast). For full Jake Bilbro combines 95% Chardonnay and 5% 90 (Paso Robles). For full review see page 18. review see page 11. ­Grenache Blanc into a delicious, gulpable package Editors’ Choice. abv: 12.2% Price: $41 of bright stone fruit and pineapple, with plenty abv: 13.1% Price: $24 of under­lying acidity to keep it fresh and crisp. Schramsberg 2011 J. Schram (North Coast). Editors’­ Choice. —V.B. LangeTwins 2019 Estate Grown Moscato 93 For full review see page 11. abv: 13.6% Price: $18/500 ml 90 (Clarksburg). Soaring honeysuckle aromas abv: 12.2% Price: $130 and vivid peach and pistachio flavors make this Winemaker’s Folly 2019 Chapter 1 Vino slightly sweet and light-bodied wine a pleasure Paradise Ridge 2012 Blanc de Blanc Late 90 Blanco (Sonoma County). Vintner Jake Bil- to sip. Best Buy. —J.G. 92 Disgorge (Russian River Valley). Dry and bro goes back to his roots here, as the son of Mari- abv: 12% Price: $15 complex in lemon zest, green apple and stone fruit, etta Cellars’ founder and winemaker Chris Bilbro, this wine has benefitted from extra time in bottle, in this deliciously approachable, cheerful white. Nichelini Family Winery 2019 Caterina showing a lovely persistence of acidity and texture. Combining 80% Chardonnay with the remainder 90 ­Reserve Semillon (Napa Valley). Opening A hint of oyster shell continues its salty, silky and a mix of Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Trousseau Gris, with a buttery nose and touch of matchstick, this savory complements. —V.B. Grenache Blanc and Berger, it’s a tribute to simpler bright white possesses an underlying richness and a abv: 12% Price: $52 times that remains flavorful, textured and bright. lush mouthfeel. Lively and floral, it tastes of lemon Editors’ Choice. —V.B. cake and apple. —V.B. Piper Sonoma NV Brut Reserve (Sonoma abv: NA Price: $24 abv: 12.2% Price: $32 92 County). This sparkling blend relies on 92% Chardonnay, mingling in 8% Pinot Noir. Robust and Wolff 2019 White Wolff (San Luis Obispo Allan Hancock 2018 Torrontés (Santa ­Barbara dry on the palate, it has crisp acidity and a taste of 89 County). Boisterous aromas of poached 89 County). Loads of grapefruit peel, ­guava, oyster shell—both complements to the fresh Man- pear, gardenia and guava are ripe but cleanly pre- jasmine and candied honeysuckle show on the gen- darin orange, pineapple and lemon zest that come sented on the nose of this blend of 50% Viognier, erous nose of this bottling, which is labeled as white to the fore. —V.B. 27% Albarino and 23% Grenache Blanc. Strong wine but is 100% Torrontés. A bright, dazzling abv: 12.5% Price: $25 peach-blossom-oil and tropical tones show on the acidity lifts the palate, where those strong plumeria palate, but it’s zesty and lively to sip. —M.K. and jasmine flavors are unabashedly ripe and floral. Equinox 2017 Brut Ultra Fiano Cuvée (Santa abv: 13.8% Price: $24 Best Buy. —M.K. 91 Clara Valley). Fiano is starting to become abv: 12.5% Price: $14 slightly more popular in California, but sparkling Charles B. Mitchell 2019 Estate Reserve Fiano remains a complete anomaly. As this bottling 88 Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc (Fair Play). A Le Casque 2019 Marsanne (Sierra Foothills). reveals, it works, starting with aromas of orange lively snap-pea aroma is followed by nicely rich 89 This subtle, tangy, medium-bodied wine rind, corn bread, dried white flower and rust. The herb, honey and melon flavors in this full-bodied, shows a great acid-to-ripeness balance and offers a palate packs dried pear and mellow mango flavors complex and lightly earthy-tasting wine. —J.G. combo of subdued apricot and white-peach flavors into the foamy mousse. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $21 to savor. —J.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $45 abv: 13.1% Price: $28 Folktale 2019 Talking Animals Pétillant OTHER WHITE WINES LangeTwins 2019 Diablo Vineyard Moscato 91 ­Naturel (Monterey County). This pét-nat of 87 (Clarksburg). This semisweet wine makes a Grenache Blanc from Mission Ranch Vineyard is Tatomer 2018 Paragon Grüner Veltliner good case for Moscato as a dinner, or better, lunch cloudy in the glass and refreshing on the nose, with 94 (Edna Valley). For full review see page 8. wine. Picture the petrol and peach aromas and lush plenty of grapefruit zest, river stones, lime and a Editors’­ Choice. honey and apricot flavors with fried chicken or fish hint of riper pear. The palate picks up an Asian pear abv: 13% Price: $28 and chips. —J.G. abv: 12% Price: $20

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BUYINGGUIDE note and amplifies the wet rock minerality. It is fun plum notes in this well-balanced, polished wine. in both neutral oak and stainless steel, this is dark and flavorful. —M.K. Freshness and softness are its hallmarks. —J.G. cranberry in color. Strong, concentrated flavors of abv: 12.9% Price: $30 abv: 11.5% Price: $16 cherry, cassis and orange make for a juicy palate of length and grip. —V.B. Piper Sonoma NV Blanc de Blancs (Sonoma Migration NV Brut Rose (North Coast). A light abv: 13.5% Price: $35 91 County). Made from 75% Chardonnay and 87 copper color and rather advanced nut and 25% Pinot Blanc, this is a dry, elegant sparkler dried fruit flavors give this wine a mature profile Topa Mountain Winery 2019 Rosé of Grenache that delivers nuanced flavors of green apple, mango that’s interesting to taste. It’s broad and rather soft 91 (Santa Barbara County). A slightly yellow and grapefruit. Quenching in acidity, it has a linear in texture, dry and a bit lean on the finish. —J.G. shade of pink, this bottling offers white melon, focus that remains consistent and complex on the abv: 12.5% Price: $40 chalk and a splash of citrus on the nose. The pal- palate. —V.B. ate is very grippy with chalky tension, which frames abv: 12.9% Price: $22 Scotto Family Cellars NV Proscotto Semi- generous flavors of melon and plum. —M.K. 86 Sweet Bubbles (California). Crisp apple and abv: 13.5% Price: $28 Piper Sonoma NV Brut Méthode Traditionnelle dried herb aromas lead to sweet, broad floral and 91 (Sonoma County). For full review see page 17. pistachio flavors in this frothy, fruity wine. —J.G. Baca 2019 Ring Around the Rosé of Zinfan- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 12.5% Price: $7/375 ml 90 del (California). Sold in three-packs, this can is made entirely from Zinfandel and aged four Cadre 2017 Ode to Pearls Sparkling Albariño Scotto Family Cellars 2018 Villa Antico Pétil- months in neutral French oak. With an inviting nose 90 (Edna Valley). This sparkling wine shows 86 lant Naturel Rosé of Sangiovese (Lodi). This of cherry, blackberry and cranberry, it is dry, leathery potential for Albariño as a bubbly, starting with soft and frothy wine shows a deep orange color and and satisfying, with balanced fruitiness that appeals. crisp aromas of pear and apple, as well as a touch of noticeable sweetness, giving it an easy, straightfor- —V.B. yogurt. There is sizzling acidity and a pinpoint tex- ward appeal. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $24/250 ml ture on the palate, where the grippy structure offers abv: 11% Price: $25 rounded flavors of yellow apple and white flowers. Belle Glos 2019 Oeil De Perdrix Pinot Noir —M.K. Ultraviolet NV Sparkling Rosé (California). 90 Blanc Rosé (Sonoma County). Made in abv: 13.7% Price: $45 85 Simple cherry and strawberry flavors com- a rich, likable style, this Pinot Noir Blanc is light pete for attention with a dried herb accent in this in color and quenching in strawberry, melon and Erosion NV Sparkler Machine (Napa Valley). dry, light-bodied wine. —J.G. peach. Fleshy and lush, it delivers bold, robust lay- 90 This is a dry, refreshing sparkling wine abv: 12.5% Price: $25 ers of flavor and velvety texture. —V.B. made with 43% Sauvignon Blanc, 43% Chardonnay abv: 12.9% Price: $22 and 14% Sémillon. Simple stone fruit and pineap- ple meet a flinty like stoniness that adds texture and ROSÉS Crū 2019 Jose’s Rosé (Central Coast). For grip, with lasting lemon candy on the finish. —V.B. 90 full review see page 19. abv: 14% Price: $29/250 ml Limerick Lane 2019 Rosé (Russian River abv: 13.8% Price: $20 93 Valley).­ A perennially memorable wine, this Piper Sonoma NV Brut Rosé (Sonoma combines 50% Syrah with 27% Mourvèdre, 20% Grgich Hills 2019 Estate Grown Rosé (Napa 90 County).­ Made from 53% Chardonnay, Grenache and 3% Grenache Blanc. Crisp, meaty and 90 Valley). This is made from 51% Cabernet 39% Pinot Noir, 6% Pinot Blanc and 2% of an aged sublime on the palate, it offers bold, layered flavors Sauvignon, 33% Zinfandel, 10% Merlot and 6% reserve blend, this wine has great pink color and of wild strawberry, blood orange and vanilla bean. Cabernet Franc. Reductive, the oak is nutty and is dry, fresh and fruity. Strawberry, raspberry and —V.B. the palate soft and supple. Strawberry, cherry and tangerine wrap around crisp acidity and a lasting abv: 12.9% Price: $28 Meyer lemon accent a balanced richness lifted by opulence that remains balanced and bright. —V.B. crisp, lasting acidity. —V.B. abv: 12.6% Price: $22 Dovecote 2019 Thompson Vineyard Estate abv: 13.1% Price: $25 92 Rosé (Santa Barbara County). For full review Sosie 2018 Brut Nature First Things First see page 13. Grounded Wine Co. 2019 Space Age Rosé of 90 (Sonoma County). With a richness of nutty abv: 13.9% Price: $30 90 Grenache (Central Coast). This creatively brioche, this warm, winning wine is dry and struc- packaged bottling delivers on the wine front as well, tured, with a depth of oak, baked lemon and high- Terre Rouge 2019 Vin Gris d’Amador Rosé offering aromas of cranberry, raspberry and dark toned acidity. Floral aromatics adorn it further. 92 (Sierra Foothills). This is a serious, savory strawberry—a riper side of rosé yet still fresh and —V.B. and well-structured rose blended from Rhône vari- zesty. It’s softer and mellow on the palate, where abv: 13.5% Price: $30 etals, and is meant for drinking in place of the usual hibiscus, watermelon and fruit-punch flavors pop. red wine. A full body and bracing acidity back up Best Buy. —M.K. Hungry Hawk 2019 Brut Rosé (San Diego interesting plum, rhubarb and melon flavors that abv: 13.1% Price: $15 89 County). Sparkling Mourvèdre is uncom- are concentrated enough for a lingering finish.Edi - mon, at least in California, but this is a solid show- tors’ Choice. —J.G. Kaena 2019 Rosé of Grenache (Santa Ynez ing of its potential. Pale pink in the glass, the wine abv: 14% Price: $25 90 Valley). Simultaneously tight and fruity on combines watermelon aromas with a steely, metal- the nose, this rosé of Grenache shows strawberry, lic tone. Flavors of dried cranberry and rose petal Indigené 2019 Rozane Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sta. cherry-sorbet and citrus-spray aromas on the nose. converge with that tinny minerality on the palate. 91 Rita Hills). Tightly woven on the nose, this The palate lands with riper strawberry and cherry- Editors’ Choice. —M.K. rosé begins with light aromas of strawberry and wet cream flavors, with a light brush of zesty tangerine. abv: 11.5% Price: $32 stone. The palate is driven by zesty acidity and a —M.K. rocky minerality, with subtle, refreshing flavors of abv: 13.9% Price: $25 Weibel Family 2019 Archgate Rose Pinot Noir melon and pink citrus. —M.K. 88 (California). A finely beaded texture and abv: 12.5% Price: $24 LangeTwins 2019 Estate Grown Rosé San- rich mouthfeel are filled in with light cherry and 90 giovese (Lodi). This tangy, light-bodied Salvestrin 2019 Vin Rosé (St. Helena). Made wine shows a particularly vivid coral color, effusive 91 entirely from Syrah and fermented and aged peach and cranberry aromas and bright, crisp fla-

108 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 vors. It’s very well balanced and food friendly. Best straightforward wine that is crisp and likable in freshly cut wood and black-pepper notes don’t leave Buy. —J.G. ­citrus, strawberry and melon. —V.B. much room for fruitiness. —J.G. abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $22 abv: 14.3% Price: $22

Paradise Ridge 2019 Bride’s Blush Rosé LangeTwins 2019 River Ranch Vineyard Frey NV Organic Rosé (Mendocino). Tasty 90 (Russian River Valley). Light-pink in color, 87 ­Aglianico Rosé (Jahant). An earthy, smoky 84 raspberry and watermelon flavors in this this is a nutty, dry and resplendent wine, light, aroma leads to fruity, fresh flavors and medium full-bodied wine are coated in rather heavy baking bright and delicately crafted. Layers of citrus, rose body in this light and tangy wine. —J.G. spices and vanilla. —J.G. petal and wild strawberry mingle with ease. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $22 abv: 13.9% Price: $9 abv: 13.1% Price: $26 Trentadue 2019 Estate Rosato di Sangiovese Manzanita Creek 2018 Rosé of Pinot Noir Revelshine 2019 Rosé (Russian River ­Valley). 87 (Alexander Valley). Cranberry-orange in 84 (Carneros). This is a dry and somewhat 90 This wine comes in a game-changing pack- color, this wine is dark and raisiny, with a richness metallic wine, blended with a tiny amount of Gre- age, a 500 ml aluminum screwcap bottle that’s both that veers into sweet. Christmas spice and leather nache that tastes quietly of wild strawberry and refillable and recyclable. The brainchild of Jake Bil- accent its rustic nature. —V.B. cherry. —V.B. bro of Limerick Lane, the wine delivers plenty of abv: 13.7% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 bang for the buck as well—as it’s a smooth, lovely and crisp celebration of appellated 50% Syrah, Bota Box 2019 Dry Rosé (California). This 27% Mourvèdre, 20% Grenache and 3% Grenache 86 light-bodied wine is clean and straight- PINOT NOIR Blanc that evokes a day of picking fresh berries. Edi- forward. Its aroma is light, and its cherry and tors’ Choice. —V.B. ­raspberry flavors are mild, resting on a soft texture. Anthill 2018 Hawk Hill Pinot Noir (Sonoma abv: 13.2% Price: $16/500 ml Best Buy. —J.G. 96 Coast). From the cool climes of Freestone, abv: 11.5% Price: $23/3 L just miles from the Pacific Ocean, this vineyard- Schug 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sonoma designate captures all the feral, crisp and complex 90 Coast). Inviting in strawberry, watermelon Keynote 2019 Rosé (California). Red-­cherry aspects of site and variety in the right hands. Car- and peach, this is a fruity, likable wine with a touch 86 and sour-cherry flavors light up this bonic, with euphoric red raspberry and strawberry of richness, as well as length and breadth across medium-bodied­ wine, adding a nip of good fruit flavors, it is textured, savory and endlessly bright. the palate. Bright acidity lifts the fruit throughout. ­acidity on the finish. —J.G. —V.B. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: 13.7% Price: $48 abv: 13% Price: $26 OZV 2019 Estate Grown Rosé of Primitivo Dutton-Goldfield 2018 Angel Camp Vineyard Hideaway 2019 S&M Rosé (Santa Barbara 86 (Lodi). This very fruity and dry wine gushes 96 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review 89 County). A yellow shade of pink, this 50% juicy grape flavors on a medium to full body that see page 3. Editors’ Choice. Syrah and 50% Mourvèdre rosé begins with aromas gives it a pretty big mouthfeel. —J.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $62 of baked cherry, brioche, vanilla and the lightest abv: 13% Price: $12 hint of smoke. There is brisk acidity and textural Joseph Jewell 2018 Ryan Vineyard Pinot Noir tension to the sip, where the light smoke tone meets Winemakers Selection 2019 Rosé (Cali- 96 (Humboldt County). The ripe, concentrated with more cherry flavors. —M.K. 86 fornia). Light bodied, this wine offers fruit flavors in this superb medium- to full-bodied abv: 13.6% Price: $32 tasty watermelon flavors and touches of earth and wine range from warm strawberry to brooding black smoked meat. Best Buy. —J.G. cherry and tangy pomegranate. Lightly accented Rotation Vineyards 2019 Rosé (Lodi). A abv: 12.5% Price: $6 with baking spices and moderately tannic, there is a 89 s­avory, earthy aroma blends into juicy bit of nervy tension that bodes well for aging—best peach and delicate spice flavors in this layered, Bucket List NV Pink Moscato (California). from 2024. Cellar Selection. —J.G. complex and distinctive wine. Made from Chenin 85 Floral aromas and lychee fruit flavors make abv: 13.5% Price: $39 Blanc grapes and a dash of Syrah, it is medium to this lightly sweet wine very vivid and boisterous. full bodied and mouthfilling in texture. —J.G. Best Buy. —J.G. Anthill 2018 Campbell Ranch Pinot Noir abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 9% Price: $8 95 (Sonoma­ Coast). This remarkably impres- sive wine opens in an intriguingly edge, earthy nose, SeatPocket 2019 Rosé (Central Coast). Rose Bucket List NV Rosé (California). Good cherry­ leading the way to a lengthy and complex experi- 89 petals and watermelon are strong while 85 and raspberry flavors carry a bit of sweet- ence on the palate. Balanced red-fruit, spice and pleasant on the nose of this bottling. The palate ness in this medium-bodied, straightforward wine. forest notes accent supple, integrated tannin and is more dynamic, from zesty lemon peel to riper Best Buy. —J.G. oak, never losing sight of its coastal brightness and peach-oil flavors, all wrapped in decent tension. abv: 10.5% Price: $8 exuberance. —V.B. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $48 abv: 13.8% Price: $20 Nichelini Family Winery 2019 Rosé of Cab- 85 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made both Dutton-Goldfield 2018 Devil’s Gulch Vine- Michael Pozzan 2019 Giapoza Rosé (Califor- from pressed grapes and a saignée bleed, this 95 yard Pinot Noir (Marin County). For full 88 nia). Melon and prosciutto flavors mingle wine is hearty and dark in color. Cedar, dried herb, review see page 4. Editors’ Choice. nicely in this full-bodied but nicely tangy wine. It ­tobacco and bell pepper make for an herbaceous abv: 13.8% Price: $72 has a traditional salmon color, plentiful aromas and quality that falls a bit flat. —V.B. mouthfilling peach and melon notes. —J.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $30 LaRue 2018 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). abv: 13.5% Price: $16 95 This is a bringing together of three vineyard Vina Moda 2019 Sierra Rose Rosé (Sierra sites, 46% Thorn Ridge, 38% Rice-Spivak and 16% Kenwood 2019 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sonoma 85 Foothills). A smoky, flinty streak dominates Emmaline Ann. Gorgeous and delicious, it sings 87 Coast). Cranberry colored, this is a dry, the flavors of this medium- to full-bodied wine. Its in black tea, rhubarb, violet and orange peel, with

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BUYINGGUIDE bright, delicate structure and underlying acidity. A plum, toasted sage, thyme and loamy soil make for that reveals black-cherry, rhubarb and black-tea tease of dark chocolate lingers on the finish. —V.B. an attention-grabbing sip. —M.K. nuances. It’s distinctive and should age well in the abv: 13.3% Price: $60 abv: 13.6% Price: $60 mid-term. Best from 2023. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $65 LaRue 2017 Rice-Spivak Vineyard Pinot Noir Challen 2018 Zotovich Vineyard Pinot Noir 95 (Sonoma Coast). Tangy citrus undertones 94 (Sta. Rita Hills). The nose on this single- Merry Edwards 2018 Pinot Noir (Sonoma of lemon and grapefruit lift a midpalate that takes vineyard showcase is very spicy yet with a fruity 94 Coast). Jammy plum, strawberry and dark on darker, more savory elements of strawberry, dark core, offering plum and mulberry alongside cola, cherry ooze from the core of this beautifully coastal cherry, clove, nutmeg and tea. Light and delicate cardamom and mace. It’s lush on the palate, with wine, seasoned in dried herb, clove and black tea. on its feet, it holds steady on the lengthy palate in ripe cherry, cola and chai spice, wrapped in a smooth Expressive and varietal, with a thick tannin struc- bright acidity and an elegant richness that provides silky texture that’s delicious and hedonistic. —M.K. ture, it has room to open further and unwind, its ample mouthfeel and structure. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 oak well integrated and its tannins structured. abv: 13.3% Price: $75 —V.B. Claiborne & Churchill 2018 Greengate Ranch abv: 14.3% Price: $48 Maggy Hawk 2018 Jolie Estate Pinot Noir 94 & Vineyard Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). For full 95 (Anderson Valley). A captivating blend of review see page 6. Merry Edwards 2018 Pinot Noir (Russian savory characteristics along with great balance and abv: 14.1% Price: $52 94 River Valley). Supple in tannin and earthy a good fruit foundation make this wine especially in black tea, this appellation wine is delicious, with interesting. Elements of sage, tobacco and earth Claiborne & Churchill 2018 Runestone Pinot depth and freshness. Lively acidity boosts a core of mingle with red and black cherries, and are backed 94 Noir (Edna Valley). For full review see page dark cherry, pomegranate and cherry—the fruit well by moderate tannins and good, nervy acidity. —J.G. 6. Cellar Selection. contrasted in nutmeg and clove. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $65 abv: 13.8% Price: $56 abv: 14.5% Price: $55

Merry Edwards 2018 Meredith Estate Pinot Dutton-Goldfield 2018 Docker Hill Vineyard Merry Edwards 2018 Georganne Pinot Noir 95 Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review 94 Pinot Noir (Mendocino). For full review see 94 (Russian River Valley). Textured, tangy and see page 5. page 7. Cellar Selection. tart in wild-berry flavor, this wine is powerfully abv: 14.5% Price: $72 abv: 14.1% Price: $68 concentrated, full bodied and expansive, the tan- nins supple and supportive of the rich, dense fruit. Peake Ranch 2018 Peake Ranch Vineyard Hyde Vineyard 2017 Larry Hyde Vineyard Secondary characteristics of violet, rose and earthy 95 ­Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Expertly focused 94 Estate Pinot Noir (Carneros-Napa Valley). black tea give it additional intrigue and beauty. and intense aromas of black cherry, clove and star Toasted oak and turned earth aromas are swept —V.B. anise make for a very exuberant and delicious nose clean by vibrant red cherry and ripe strawberry fla- abv: 14.5% Price: $66 on this bottling from this brand’s estate, which sur- vors in this full-bodied, rather broad-textured wine. rounds the winery. Layers of wood spice and black Made by the Larry Hyde family from its famous Merry Edwards 2018 Olivet Lane Pinot Noir cherry are wrapped in soft voluptuous tannins on vineyard-designate property, it has mouthcoating 94 (Russian River Valley). Juicy with brawny the palate, making for a very full and satisfying sip. richness, moderate tannins and great concentration black fruit, this wine offers soft, supple tannins that —M.K. to bring a lingering finish.Editors’ Choice. —J.G. support fleshy ongoing richness on the midpalate. abv: 13.9% Price: $60 abv: 14.2% Price: $70 Varietally satisfying and expressive in velvety tex- ture, it finishes in baking spice and a depth of earth. Auteur Wines 2018 Savoy Vineyard Pinot Joseph Jewell 2018 Alderpoint Vineyard —V.B. 94 Noir (Anderson Valley). A deep dark color 94 Pinot Noir (Humboldt County). Inviting abv: 14.2% Price: $72 and ebullient fruit aromas lead to rich, ripe, vivid strawberry and forest-floor aromas and ripe, gener- black-fruit and tobacco flavors in this full-bodied ous red-cherry and sour-cherry flavors fill out this Merry Edwards 2018 Warren’s Hill Pinot Noir and moderately tannic wine. The wine has a grippy full-bodied, lightly tannic wine An earthy, woodsy 94 (Russian River Valley). Sharp and tangy in texture and seems built for further aging. Best from complexity develops with time in the glass, making crisp citrus, rhubarb and pomegranate, this lively, 2023. —J.G. it warm and enjoyable to sip. —J.G. complex and structured wine shows secondary abv: 14.1% Price: $75 abv: 13.9% Price: $39 characteristics of forest floor, tea and dried herb. Moderately structured and ripe, it offers richness Belle Glos 2019 Balade Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita LaRue 2017 Thorn Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir within a context of balance and grace. —V.B. 94 Hills). A dark, purple-red color in the glass, 94 (Sonoma Coast). Lavender and rose make abv: 14.4% Price: $66 this single-block study begins with spicy aromas of for a floral entry into this wine, which is exuber- cola and root beer as well as intense but not over- antly bright in racy cherry, blackberry and blood Mount Eden Vineyards 2017 The Tanaka ripe berry and cherry aspects, a touch of toasty orange. Offering length and subtle richness, it is 94 ­Project Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). oak and an earthy, tar-like scent. The palate is rich adorned further in clove, nutmeg and vanilla, with This bottling is a personal one for the Patterson with baked boysenberry-pie flavors but also deep ample body weight to match the acidity. —V.B. family, dedicated to funding suicide prevention and complex with loamy soil and more cola spice. abv: 13.8% Price: $75 after the loss of their friend Ron Tanaka. The wine The structure is tightly woven. Drink now through offers hearty aromas of blistered plum, funky mush- 2034. Cellar Selection. —M.K. Lichen Estate 2018 Moonglow Pinot Noir room and hints of dried seaweed and iodine on the abv: 14.7% Price: $55 94 (Anderson Valley). For full review see page nose. The palate also reflects those savory seashore 7. Cellar Selection. elements along with touches of dried cranberry and Challen 2018 Peake Ranch Calera Clone abv: 14.2% Price: $35 mulberry touches. It’s built for aging, so drink now 94 ­Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Dark aromas of through 2032. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. roasted plum and mulberry meet with sumac, pep- Maggy Hawk 2018 Unforgettable Estate abv: 13.5% Price: $80 per and earth on the nose of this single-vineyard 94 ­Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). A dark heart of clonal expression. It’s thick and richer on the pal- black fruit centers this complex and well-­balanced Ram’s Gate 2018 Bush-Crispo Vineyard Pinot ate, where intensely plush flavors of baked cherry, wine. Enticing, spicy clove, cedar and earth aromas 94 Noir (Russian River Valley). Spicy red cherry lead to a supersmooth but well-structured palate and strawberry highlight this seamlessly bright,

110 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 complex and delicious wine from a long-standing black-cherry and cooked cherry flavors that are the nose of this bottling. There’s a silky thickness to vineyard designate. With secondary accents of accented by rhubarb and tobacco nuances. Moder- the sandy tannins, which uphold black plum, thyme ­vanilla, clove and black tea, it provides varietal ate tannins give the palate some heft. It’s a fun trip and even slight basil flavors that will continue to specificity within a lush, opulent and ultimately down the path less traveled. —J.G. converge with time. Drink now through 2032. balanced framework. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $48 Cellar­ Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $75 abv: 14.3% Price: $42 Anthill 2018 Harmony Lane Pinot Noir Sante Arcangeli 2018 Hand in Hand Vine- 93 (Sonoma­ Coast). From a site along Occiden- Challen 2018 Tondre H Block Pinot Noir 94 yard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). tal Ridge, that an be described as cool climate and 93 (­Santa Lucia Highlands). Full aromas of Extremely aromatic in the glass, this bottling from ocean influenced, this wine opens in an exuberance candied cherry and raspberry meet with wild mint a vineyard in the Corralitos area shows smashed of strawberry and raspberry on both the nose and and light licorice on the rich but tightly woven nose cranberry, crushed thyme, bay leaf, green pepper- palate. Soft, silky and delicate in style, it sings in of this block selection. The soft, silky texture is corn and green tea in the glass. The wild mix of bright acidity and lasting savory tones of black tea mouthcoating on the palate, where muscular tan- herbs and cracked pepper pops on the palate, which and forest. —V.B. nins carry delicate flavors of hibiscus and rose petal also offers a juicy cranberry and cherry tone while abv: 13.8% Price: $52 as well as heartier smoked berry flavors. —M.K. remaining light on its feet. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $60 abv: 12.8% Price: $49 Anthill 2018 Peters Vineyard Pinot Noir 93 (Sonoma­ Coast). Opening in a richness of Claiborne & Churchill 2018 Twin Creeks Pinot Sante Arcangeli 2018 Lester Family Vineyard toffee on the nose, this wine is delicate on the palate, 93 Noir (Edna Valley). Roasted cherry, struck 94 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). For full layered brightly and seamlessly in pomegranate, rhu- stone, rose hips and light oak aromas show on the review see page 8. Editors’ Choice. barb and cranberry. Clove, tea and dried herb give it a nose of this bottling. Smoky red-cherry, roasted abv: 13.5% Price: $49 savory, earthy contrast and lasting complexity. —V.B. plum and grilled strawberry flavors meet with a abv: 13.4% Price: $48 touch of pleasant hickory on the palate. —M.K. Table Eleven 2018 La Encantada Vineyard abv: 13.9% Price: $46 94 ­Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Pristine aro- August West 2018 Peterson Vineyard Pinot mas of black raspberry, crushed river stone and a 93 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Red cherry, Crū 2018 Solomon Hills Vineyard Pinot Noir delicate flake of mace converge for a complex and pomegranate, lavender, rose petals and wet clay 93 (Santa Maria Valley). For full review see complete nose on this bottling of the Pommard aromas show on the dynamic nose of this bottling. page 10. clone. The palate is lively and zesty at first, then There is a core of crushed rock minerality on the abv: 14.1% Price: $60 ­offers waves of fresh berry and light fennel pollen—­ sip, where pomegranate, hibiscus and fruit-punch altogether a very focused expression. —M.K. flavors are enhanced by dried herbs and cinnamon- Dutton-Goldfield 2018 Azaya Ranch Vineyard abv: 13.5% Price: $52 laced spices. —M.K. 93 Pinot Noir (Petaluma Gap-Marin County).­ abv: 14.5% Price: $48 This taut and concentrated wine seems to be all Wrath 2018 Ex Vite Pinot Noir (Monterey). about the future. Slightly restrained aromas of 94 Zesty aromas of thyme, tarragon, pine Auteur Wines 2018 Manchester Ridge ­Pinot black cherry and sour cherry lead to deep, tightly needle and peppercorn reveal the whole-cluster 93 Noir (Mendocino Ridge). A distinctive and wound black-fruit flavors that are firmly wrapped style of this bottling, which rests on a fresh black- potent crème de cassis aroma and similarly lavish in fine-grained tannins. Best from 2025.Cellar raspberry frame. The palate is peppery and herbal black-fruit flavors give this full-bodied wine plenty Selection­ . —J.G. as well, tossing wild sagebrush and marjoram in to savor. Laced with fine-grained tannins, it feels abv: 13.7% Price: $62 with toasted tomato and lightly dried cherry flavors. mouthfilling and keeps the focused fruit flavors —M.K. flowing through the lingering finish. Best from 2023. El Pino Club 2018 Sea Floored Pinot Noir abv: 14.3% Price: $38 —J.G. 93 (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 10. abv: 14.3% Price: $75 Cellar Selection. Zaca Mesa 2018 Bien Nacido Vineyard Hom- abv: 13.9% Price: $60 94 age Collection Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Val- Challen 2018 Bentrock Vineyard Pinot Noir ley). For full review see page 9. 93 (Sta. Rita Hills). Pungent aromas of black MacRostie 2018 Manzana Vineyard Pinot abv: 13.9% Price: $48 plum, ripe cherry and creamy baking-spice hits 93 Noir (Green Valley). Grippy, layered and tex- of star anise and mace make for a very compelling tured, this impressive wine is elegantly lean and Anthill 2018 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). nose on this bottling. The palate is full flavored and balanced, with contrasting notions of blood orange, 93 Tangy red fruit and a burst of citrus accent boisterous with baked licorice and stewed boysen- cranberry and forest floor. It impresses in its endur- this juicy, supple and nuanced coastal wine, which berry flavors that are cut by ample waves of acidity. ing acidity and bold structure. —V.B. offers a brilliant contrast of richness and acidity. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $58 Black tea, dried herb and a hint of forest floor add abv: 14.3% Price: $65 savory context and complexity. —V.B. Maggy Hawk 2018 Afleet Estate Pinot Noir abv: 13.4% Price: $39 Challen 2018 Dierberg Vineyard Pinot Noir 93 (Anderson Valley). Light baking spices blend 93 (Santa Maria Valley). Strawberry, sumac, with red cherry and a touch of sour cherry in this Anthill 2018 Baker Ranch Pinot Noir (Ander- French toast spice and crumpled violets make for medium-bodied, deftly balanced wine. An elegant 93 son Valley). Generous and distinctive flavors a very expressive nose on this single-vineyard bot- texture and subtleties in flavor seem to improve it are balanced against a good sour-cherry acidity in tling. The palate is a spice rack of flavors, from car- with each sip. Best from 2023. —J.G. this nervy, individualistic wine. Nuances of black damom to nutmeg to thyme, which decorate the abv: 13.8% Price: $65 tea and rhubarb develop on the palate while mild roasted plum fruit and enhance the soft mouthfeel. tannins add some welcome grip to the texture. —J.G. —M.K. Maggy Hawk 2018 Stormin’ Estate Pinot Noir abv: 13.5% Price: $48 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 93 (Anderson Valley). Silky and polished, this elegant wine offers restrained oak aromas and fla- Anthill 2018 Comptche Ridge Vineyard Pinot­ Challen 2018 Scarlett Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia vors like cinnamon and nutmeg backed by vibrant 93 Noir (Mendocino Ridge). Very ripe and 93 Highlands). Hearty aromas of black cherry red- and black-cherry flavors. Great balance from earthy, this big but relaxed wine overflows with and boysenberry meet with loamy soil and cocoa on light tannins and good acidity give it an appetizing

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BUYINGGUIDE mouthfeel and will help it age well. Best from 2023. Sante Arcangeli 2018 Split Rail Vineyard Boheme 2017 Taylor Ridge Vineyard Pinot —J.G. 93 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Baked 92 Noir (Sonoma Coast). Herbal and evocative abv: 14.2% Price: $65 black-plum, cherry, clove, nutmeg and roasted meat of forest floor and bay, this is a juicy and well-struc- aromas arise on the nose of this single-vineyard tured wine, made in small amounts from a coastal Mansfield-Dunne 2018 Pinot Noir (Santa expression. The palate snaps with buoyant fruit site. Rhubarb, pomegranate and strawberry flavors 93 Lucia Highlands). Rich aromas of black flavors of raspberry and pomegranate, enhanced mingle around a core of bright acidity and grippy plum, blackberry, melted licorice and hearty oak by dried red flower, toasted sagebrush and a bright texture, with a saline edge. —V.B. spice show on the powerful nose of this appella- acidity. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $55 tion blend. The palate is packed with deliciously abv: 13.5% Price: $49 extracted fruit, offering deep, hearty and rugged fla- Eden Rift 2018 Lansdale Block Pinot Noir vors of boysenberry and garam masala spice. —M.K. Shokrian Vineyard 2018 Harvest Moon Unfil- 92 (Cienega Valley). From a block of the Calera abv: 14.3% Price: $39 93 tered Pinot­ Noir (Santa Barbara County). For clone that yielded less than 1.3 tons per acre, this full review see page 11. Editors’ Choice. bottling offers aromas of boysenberry, iron, loam and Merry Edwards 2018 Coopersmith Pinot Noir abv: 11.5% Price: $44 gamy funk on the nose. Fairly heavy, rocky tannins 93 (Russian River Valley). Creamy with high- frame the palate, where blistered black plum and toned, underlying acidity, this wine is well struc- Shokrian Vineyard 2017 Rue Dauphine Pinot more boysenberry meet with dried meat and lav- tured and weighty. Rich layers of strawberry and 93 Noir (Santa Barbara County). For full review ender flavors. Drink 2021–2033.Cellar Selection. cranberry highlight a core of concentrated tannin see page 12. —M.K. and oak, with underlying complements of baking abv: 12.7% Price: $42 abv: 13.8% Price: $78 spice and cola. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $68 Valle de Inez 2019 Pinot Noir (San Luis Eden Rift 2018 Palmtag Block Pinot Noir 93 Obispo County). This vintage of Doug Mar- 92 (Cienega Valley). Boiled raspberry and Merry Edwards 2018 Klopp Ranch Pinot Noir gerum’s more affordable label is a complex and deli- pomegranate aromas meet with rose petals on the 93 (Russian River Valley). Forest, clove, oak cious stunner, beginning with opulent aromas of nose of this bottling, which pays homage to one of and thick tannin make for a hearty entry into this black cherry, wet loam and light mint on the nose. the historic property’s former owners. The palate is perennially impressive vineyard-designate—one of There’s a tight line of stony, loamy minerality on the cohesive in flavor and structure, offering raspberry the producer’s earliest partnerships. Weighty and palate, balancing the wild raspberry, mulberry and and sagebrush flavors. —M.K. powerful, it offers forest floor, tea and wild straw- black-pepper spice flavors.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $78 berry, the acidity lasting and lively. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $66 LaRue 2018 Emmaline Ann Vineyard Pinot Wrath 2018 115/667 Pinot Noir (Monterey). 92 Noir (Sonoma Coast). Youthful and still Oleandri 2018 Lindsay’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 93 Pleasantly rustic in approach, this clonal untangling, this wine is peppery and spicy—a mix 93 (Sta. Rita Hills). This is an ethereally light combo showcase begins with earthy aromas of sage- of white pepper and clove that season complemen- style of Pinot Noir, yet is extremely complex and brush, bloody rust, iodine and dried cherries on the tary components of forest floor and black tea. Crisp engaging on all fronts. Fresh aromas of strawberry, nose. It lands on the palate with ample smoke as orange fruit, raspberry and strawberry provide a wild mint and tarragon lead into a snappy palate well as more blood and iodine, with mulberry at the tanginess that appeals and coats the delicate palate of pomegranate and hibiscus, with a savory white- core and a penetrating bay-leaf kick into the finish. with just a hint of oak. —V.B. pepper spice. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. —M.K. abv: 13.2% Price: $75 abv: 13.7% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 LaRue 2017 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Peake Ranch 2018 John Sebastiano Vine- Apriori 2017 Wentzel Vineyard Pinot Noir 92 ­Another cuvée made from top sites, this cap- 93 yard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Baked black 92 (Anderson Valley). This deep-colored tures the beauty of three sites: 52% Rice-Spivak,­ cherry, nutmeg cream and a prominent amount of and full-bodied wine offers a distinctive blend of 31% Thorn Ridge and 17% Emmaline Ann. Baking licorice spice show on the nose of this bottling from black-fruit flavors accompanied by forest floor and spice, brioche, rhubarb and orange flavors meet an a steeply sloped vineyard on the eastern side of the slightly smoky undertones that add nice complex- undercurrent of salinity and ocean air, with thick appellation. The palate tightens up a bit, showing ity. With time in the glass dried plum and black-tea tannin supporting the bright, racy acidity. —V.B. tart and brisk red plum as well as brushes of euca- nuances come out and the mouthfeel melts into a abv: 13.4% Price: $60 lyptus oil and mint. —M.K. very smooth texture. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $60 abv: 14.1% Price: $60 LaRue 2017 Coastlands Vineyard Pinot Noir 92 (Sonoma Coast). This is not a wine that Ram’s Gate 2018 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Birichino 2017 Boer Vineyard Pinot Noir owner and winemaker Wilson makes every 93 Fruity and earthy in good measure, this 92 (Chalone). Smoke, toasted, crisp red-plum, year. But it’s worth noting when she does. This vin- memorable wine is effusive in baked cherry and racy wild-sagebrush and gamy meat aromas converge tage is balanced in weight and style, with black tea, acidity, the spice components equally intriguing in on the layered nose of this bottling. The palate is raspberry, strawberry and bay leaf mingling around cardamom, clove and pepper. Cohesive and supple equally complex, as toasted sage battles for atten- strong tannin structure and notes of cardamom and on the palate, it is a great showcase for the vintage tion against wild-plum, cranberry and roasted red- vanilla. —V.B. and appellation. —V.B. apple flavors. —M.K. abv: 12.8% Price: $75 abv: 14% Price: $48 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 MacRostie 2018 Pinot Noir (Russian River Ron Noble 2018 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir Boheme 2017 English Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir 92 Valley). Rich in cola and vanilla flavors that 93 (Petaluma Gap). For full review see page 11. 92 (Sonoma Coast). Rose-petal-potpourri aro- accent the core of strawberry, rhubarb and orange abv: 14.5% Price: $95 mas lead to a palate of baked plum, dried currant peel, this wine is cohesive and integrated. Silky and and white pepper in this vineyard-designate from creamy on the palate, it builds tannin weight over Sante Arcangeli 2018 Ananda Pinot Noir the coast. Racy acidity boosts the balanced rich- time, finishing in a balance of black tea. —V.B. 93 (Santa Cruz Mountains). For full review see ness and concentration, finishing in toasted oak and abv: 14.2% Price: $46 page 11. Editors’ Choice. black tea. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $65 abv: 14.1% Price: $55

112 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 MacRostie 2018 Nunes Vineyard Pinot Noir Harrington 2018 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). berry while flirting with bay leaf and dried ginger 92 (Russian River Valley). Thick and savory 91 This bottling, from both the Siletto and spice. —M.K. forest and tea elements combine effortlessly with Woodside vineyards, begins with aromas of baked abv: 14.3% Price: $40 crunchy fruit flavors of cranberry and orange in plum, cherry, dried tarragon, sagebrush and rose- this light-bodied, elegant vineyard-designate. The water. There is a zesty sense of orange rind and V. Sattui 2018 Collina d’Oro Pinot Noir (Rus- concentration gives way to a silky smoothness that tart cranberry on the palate, where dried herbs add 91 sian River Valley). With a bright, fresh rides along the lengthy finish. —V.B. ­nuance. —M.K. opening of wild strawberry and orange peel, this abv: 13.5% Price: $58 abv: 13.4% Price: $30 medium-bodied wine is balanced and well struc- tured, the oak and tannin well integrated into the Merry Edwards 2018 Flax Vineyard Pinot Noir LaRue 2017 Emmaline Ann Vineyard Pinot whole. A lasting note of cardamom and black tea 92 (Russian River Valley). This vineyard-desig- 91 Noir (Sonoma Coast). From a cool-climate sparks on the finish. —V.B. nate is tart and rich in crunchy red fruit, the body, site in a relatively warm year, this light red is bright abv: 14.3% Price: $49 which is full and fleshy on the palate, is rendered in and well structured, with lasting flavors of orange, an opulent style. Toasted oak and supple tannin add cranberry and strawberry. It retains intense savory Wente 2018 Riva Ranch Vineyard Pinot Noir to the weight, breadth and complexity of the wine. elements of forest, tobacco and cardamom, which 91 (Arroyo Seco). Ripe aromas of blistered cher- —V.B. complement and intrigue. —V.B. ries, clove, star anise and dusty earth show on the abv: 14.4% Price: $63 abv: 12.3% Price: $75 nose of this single-vineyard expression. There’s a pleasant herbal spice to the palate, where taut red- Ron Noble 2018 Estate Pinot Noir (Petaluma MacRostie 2018 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). plum, pomegranate, hibiscus and cinnamon flavors 92 Gap). For full review see page 14. 91 Hearty and full bodied in style, this wine is lead into a structurally significant finish. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $68 nonetheless high toned in edgy acidity and cool-­ abv: 14.5% Price: $35 climate vibes, giving a balanced perspective of Wrath 2018 Swan/828 Pinot Noir (Monterey). brightness within its power. Rhubarb, raspberry Wrath 2018 Pommard 4/777 Pinot Noir (Mon- 92 Quite dark in the glass, this clonal blend and forest notes dominate along a silky smooth tex- 91 terey). Baked red cherry, mace and hints of packs intense boysenberry, damson plum and dark- ture of layered tannin and oak. —V.B. French toast spice show on the nose of this clonal strawberry atoms, with vanilla pie crust, light violet abv: 14.5% Price: $34 combination. Toasty oak spice leads the sip, where and tea on the nose. It’s lush and thick on the palate, baked red-fruit, sagebrush and a touch of eucalyp- with flavors of blackberry, nutmeg and French toast, MacRostie 2018 Putnam Vineyard Pinot tus flavors show. —M.K. proving ripe and hedonistic. —M.K. 91 Noir (Sonoma Coast). Robust tannins wrap abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.3% Price: $35 around a core of forest floor, black tea and savory, edgy intrigue in this coastal wine. High-toned acid- August West 2018 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Castelli Family Vineyards 2018 Pinot Noir ity buzzes along a focused palate of wild strawberry, 90 Highlands). Wild-herb, tangy boysenberry 91 (San Luis Obispo County). This bottling from cranberry and rhubarb. —V.B. and dewy pepper-tree aromas show on the nose of a ­Ramona Valley winery comes from the Central abv: 14.4% Price: $58 this appellation blend. There’s a strong amount of Coast, and it shows, with aromas of strawberry, thyme and tea leaf on the palate, as well as snappy mulberry, roasted meat and struck stone. There Martin Ranch 2017 Therese Vineyards Lester flavors of baked raspberry, all sliced by a penetrat- is zippy acidity on the palate, where wild-plum, 91 Family Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Moun- ing acidity. —M.K. mushroom and brown-tea flavors arise. —M.K. tains). Baked cherry, earthy rust, wild-tea and sage- abv: 14.7% Price: $36 abv: 13.75% Price: $25 oil aromas show on the nose of this bottling. It’s cohesive and rich on the palate, where soft tannins Belle Glos 2011 Taylor Lane Pinot Noir Comartin 2018 R-Bar-R Ranch Pinot Noir deliver boysenberry, plum-skin and cracked pepper 90 (Sonoma­ Coast). This magnum from the 91 (Santa Cruz Mountains). Dark aromas of flavors. —M.K. famous site has been given years to age in its big black raspberry, loamy soils and smoky oak show abv: 14.4% Price: $48 bottle, mellowing to show subtle waves of baked on the toasty nose of this single-vineyard expres- cherry and plum along a velvety texture. Light sea- sion. The palate is a mix of brighter, fresh fruit and Ram’s Gate 2018 Roberts Road Vineyard Pinot sonings of nutmeg, clove and cola add to its endur- more dried berry flavors, wrapped in a sandalwood 91 Noir (Sonoma Coast). Spicy and earthy on ing richness. —V.B. oil spice. —M.K. the nose, this wine continues those themes on the abv: 13.6% Price: $299/1.5 L abv: 14.2% Price: $54 palate, showing high-toned acidity and a wealth of black tea and forest floor. Cool climate in nature, Black Ridge 2015 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Dogwood & Thistle 2018 Oppenlander Vine- it has balance and supple tannins, with flavors of 90 Mountains). Herbal elements and singed 91 yard Pinot Noir (Mendocino). An earthy, meaty cherry, strawberry and rhubarb. —V.B. wood aromas meet with riper boysenberrry aspects character sets this full-bodied wine apart from the abv: 14% Price: $75 on the earthy nose of this bottling. Very dry fruits pack. It offers wet stone and dried meat aromas, and forest-floor flavors are wrapped light smoke and nicely concentrated black-cherry and sour-cherry Ram’s Gate 2018 Silver Eagle Vineyard Pinot slightly bitter herbs on the palate. —M.K. flavors and a good nip of tannin in the texture. —J.G. 91 Noir (Russian River Valley). Meaty and thick abv: 14.4% Price: $50 abv: 13.5% Price: $38 in a full-bodied style, this vineyard-designate is also racy in acidity and freshness. Forest floor, black tea Boheme 2017 Occidental Hills Pinot Noir Garcia 2018 Apple Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir and dried herb accent the ample ripeness and girth 90 (Sonoma Coast). Dense tannins gird a 91 (Sta. Rita Hills). Baked red cherry, light cola of black cherry and strawberry. —V.B. ­robust core of toasted oak and black tea in this and a barrel-spice streak of clove show on the abv: 14.5% Price: $80 coastal wine. Sturdy elements of forest floor and nose of this bottling by Jesse Hampton, longtime clove complement wild strawberry and raspberry assistant at Ampelos Cellars. The palate balances Sandler 2018 Cuvée Marcy Pinot Noir (Russian flavors and reach a cohesive whole. —V.B. eucalyptus-like herbs with dark-raspberry jam, and 91 River Valley). Light in the glass with a slight abv: 13.9% Price: $55 remains light on its feet. —M.K. have, this bottling offers aromas of thyme, sage- abv: 13.9% Price: $35 brush, rustic cherry and a touch of tangy red-plum skin. The palate pops with cranberry and straw-

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Bonterra 2018 Made with Organic Grapes woven and clean, with flavors of cranberry and black tea—characteristics that make it appealingly 90 Pinot Noir (Mendocino County). For full cracked pepper. —M.K. varietal. A lift of acidity brightens the finish. —V.B. review see page 18. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.1% Price: $44 abv: 13.8% Price: $18 Montagne Russe 2018 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Barra of Mendocino 2018 Estate Grown Pinot Darioush 2017 Pinot Noir (Russian River 89 Coast). Thick and intense with a savory 88 Noir (Mendocino). Smooth, ripe tasting and 90 Valley).­ Made in a robust, powerfully con- underbelly of dried herb, black tea and forest floor, well rounded, this full-bodied wine is packed with centrated style, this wine is earthy and stemmy, this big wine offers an array of fruity orange peel, broad strawberry and red-cherry flavors and shows with a carbonic liveliness beneath the weight. rhubarb and strawberry. The tannins are structured a relaxed, easy mouthfeel. —J.G. Thick, rich and creamily lush on the palate, it is well and strong. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 made and richly layered. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 abv: 14.8% Price: $74 Böen 2019 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County-­ Peltier 2017 Barrel Aged Cosumnes River 88 Sonoma County-Monterey County). This NSO By Dusty Nabor 2019 NSO Pinot Noir 89 Pinot Noir (Lodi). This well-built, medium- bold and full-bodied wine offers an unusually deep, 90 (Sta. Rita Hills). This is a tart and lively bodied wine has a good, grippy texture to balance dark color, plenty of superripe cherry and berry take on Pinot Noir, done at an amazing price point. ample flavors of grilled plums, cinnamon and clove ­flavors and lavish baking-spice accents. It’s concen- Underripe aromas of tangy red plum, pine needle while leaving the palate clean for the next bite of trated and mouthfilling. —J.G. and eucalyptus lead into a sagebrush-loaded pal- food. —J.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $25 ate of menthol, cranberry and tart plum. Editors’ abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Choice. —M.K. Castle Rock 2019 Pinot Noir (Mendocino abv: 14% Price: $18 SeatPocket 2018 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). 88 County). For full review see page 23. Best 89 Cherry, raspberry and wet stone aromas Buy. Ram’s Gate 2018 Estate Pinot Noir make for a familiar and fine entry to the nose of this abv: 14.5% Price: $12 90 (Carneros).­ Given 16 months in 34% new bottling. A chalky texture frames the sip, which is French oak, with a small percentage of whole-­cluster full of cranberry and raspberry, with a light vanilla Girasole 2019 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Men- fermentation, this wine is earthy and fresh in tangy, and toast finish. —M.K. 88 docino County). Juicy and fresh-tasting, tart strawberry and rhubarb. Thick tannins wrap abv: 13.8% Price: $25 this wine offers plenty of cherry, plum and straw- around and provide structure and breadth without berry flavors that seem to gush out of the glass. It’s overt weight, allowing the wine to finish in sage and Tree Fort 2019 Lush & Juicy Pinot Noir (Arroyo full bodied, but fairly soft in texture and easy to dried herb. —V.B. 89 Seco). This is a value brand to watch, origi- gulp. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $80 nating out of August Sebastiani’s 3 Badge Beverage abv: 14.2% Price: $16 Corporation. Aromas of dried berries, dried flowers, Sleeping Giant 2017 Dearden Vineyard Pinot sandalwood and roasted plums lead into a palate It’s a Headsnapper 2018 Pinot Noir (Mon- 90 Noir (Carneros). Rich and velvety in style, with chalky tension and flavors of cranberry, hibis- 88 terey County). Slightly subdued aromas of this lush red is opulent in blue fruit and baking cus, wild mint and more floral touches. It’s mellow cranberry, wild berry and light stone are delicate on spice. Well-integrated tannins support the power- and tightly woven, which is uncommon at this price the nose of this bottling. Dried cranberry and rose- ful concentration and help to accent the toasted oak point. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. petal flavors show on the palate, which is compel- and lasting note of vanilla. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 ling enough for midweek meals. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $52 abv: 13.9% Price: $10 Wrath 2018 Ex Pinot Noir (Monterey). Dried Talisman 2016 Adastra Vineyard Pinot Noir 89 cherry, shiitake, rusty earth and soy aro- Long Meadow Ranch 2016 Farmstead Pinot 90 (Los Carneros). Earthy and velvety, with mas show on the nose of this umami-rich bottling. 88 Noir (Anderson Valley). Packed with mush- racy acidity, this wine has intensity and full-bodied There’s a hint of oak on the sip, which is intriguing room, toasted oak and grilled plum flavors, this is an weight—the fruit a mix of rhubarb and pomegran- for a wine that did not see strong oak aging, but it earthy, complex wine that’s shows the savory side of ate, tart and tangy on the palate. Black tea and car- works well with the dried cherry flavors. —M.K. Pinot Noir. Full body and moderate tannins give it damom close it out. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $27 an appetizing grip on the palate. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $32 Angels Ink 2018 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). Goldeneye 2017 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley).­ 88 Candied aromas of cherry and berry meet Martin Ranch 2017 Therese Vineyards Griva 89 This attractive, ultrasmooth, full-bodied with hibiscus on the nose of this bottling. There is 88 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco). Tangy wine gently wraps black cherries and mulled plums a decent snap to the tip of the sip, where fresh fruit aromas of smashed plums, roasted wood, turned in soft tannins and modest acidity for a warm, flavors pop, and there’s also compelling tension, but earth and slight game show on the nose of this bot- mouthcoating effect. —J.G. sweetness arises toward the finish. —M.K. tling. There is immense wood spice on the palate, abv: 14.5% Price: $58 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 where slightly sour fruit flavors of red plum and wild berry are wrapped in cedar smoke. —M.K. Maggio 2018 Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Lodi). Argus 2017 Pinot Noir (Carneros). With a abv: 14.8% Price: $36 89 This is a gutsy but well-balanced wine, 88 rich entry of dark cherry and plum, this offering exuberant black-cherry and blackberry fla- approachable red is soft, fleshy and round, with Sandler 2018 Peterson Vineyard Pinot Noir vors, medium to full body and a snappy texture. It’s wide appeal. Integrated tannin and oak provide a 88 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Very light on the very generous and has just a nip of tannin. Best Buy. cushy opulence that underscores its jammy exuber- nose, this bottling offers hints of hibiscus and tangy —J.G. ance. —V.B. plum. The palate shows dried cherry, light oregano, abv: 14% Price: $14 abv: 14.3% Price: $32 a touch of licorice and a light leather flavor, with balanced acidity and tannins. —M.K. Metz Road 2018 Riverview Vineyard Pinot Bannister 2017 Pinot Noir (Green Valley). abv: 14.3% Price: $40 89 Noir (Monterey). Subtle at first on the nose, 88 Silky smooth and robust in tannin, this this bottling offers aromas of strawberry, cranberry, wine offers nuanced red fruit, baking spice and Sean Minor 2019 4B Pinot Noir (California). cherry paste and a hint of rust. The palate is tightly­ 88 This attractive medium-bodied wine is

114 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 smoky and brooding, offering forest floor aromas, Castle Rock 2019 California Cuvée Pinot Noir Juicy on the palate and supple in tannin, this wine hints of charred oak and solid-quality black-fruit 86 (California). For full review see page 24. opens in a swirl of caramel apple, dark cherry and flavors accented by black tea. —J.G. Best Buy. dust—flavors full of tension and powerful concen- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 14.5% Price: $11 tration. Herbal and spicy in equal measure, it deliv- ers robust complexity and intense structure, able Talisman 2016 Wildcat Vineyard Pinot Noir Chateau Souverain 2018 Pinot Noir (Califor- to age well over time. Enjoy best from 2027–2030. 88 (Sonoma Coast). This wine is overtly earthy 86 nia). For full review see page 24. Best Buy. Cellar Selection. —V.B. and savory in style, edgy in stem and dried herb, the abv: 13.9% Price: $10 abv: 14.7% Price: $NA tannins thick and structured. Medium bodied, the fruit leans tart in rhubarb and pomegranate. —V.B. Highway 12 2017 Pinot Noir (California). Chappellet 2017 Hideaway Vineyard Chap- abv: 14.2% Price: $60 86 Jammy aromas give way to a plummy, 96 pellet Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa berry-like flavor in this straightforward, medium- Valley). For full review see page 3. Teachworth 2018 Pinot Noir (Los Carneros). bodied and soft-textured wine. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $140 88 Thick and juicy in dark black fruit, this abv: 13.5% Price: $20 wine offers a wealth of toasted oak, forest-floor and Mira 2015 Schweizer Vineyard Cabernet Sau- black-tea components that work well together. The Old Soul 2018 Pinot Noir (Lodi). Spicy in 96 vignon (Stags Leap District). For full review tannin weight and oak give it a hearty heaviness for 86 aroma and flavor and medium bodied, this see page 4. Cellar Selection. fans of a bigger style. —V.B. wine exudes toasted wood, cinnamon and clove abv: 15.5% Price: $377 abv: 14.75% Price: $60 notes on a smooth, lightly tannic texture. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $13 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2017 Cask 23 Estate Ernest Hemingway Wines 2016 Pinot Noir 96 Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap Dis- 87 (Russian River Valley). This wine opens in Paradise Ridge 2017 Walter’s Vineyard Pinot­ trict). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection. a sweet nose of muddled strawberry and plum, a 86 Noir (Russian River Valley). This wine is abv: 14.5% Price: $295 richness that complements its heartiness of oak and ­reductive and aromatic in oak, with robust under- tannin. —V.B. lying power. Flavors range from dark cherry and Alpha Omega 2017 Drew Vineyard Cabernet abv: 14.4% Price: $64 pomegranate to black tea and cola, with specks of 95 Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). Juicy black fruit vanilla from the wood. —V.B. and rocky minerality combine with force to create a Frey 2019 Organic Pinot Noir (Mendocino). abv: 12.5% Price: $54 lasting impression in this incredible wine from the 87 Effusive, fresh cherry and blackberry aromas wild appellation. Baking spice, clove, sage and herb lead to a rather grippy, lively texture that’s almost Rodney Strong 2018 Knotty Vines Pinot Noir wrap around a length of complex structure and per- effervescent. This gulpable wine packs plenty of 85 (California). Dramatic notes of brown sugar sistent power, with just enough acidity to keep it fruit flavors and has no added sulfites. —J.G. and charred oak in the aroma linger and dominate fresh. Enjoy best from 2027–2032. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 the good cherry and berry flavors in this medium- —V.B. bodied, highly stylized wine. —J.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $NA Love Noir 2018 Pinot Noir (California). This abv: 14.5% Price: $15 87 straightforward, medium-bodied wine shows Austin Hope 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso attractive black-cherry and sour-cherry flavors, a Contour 2018 Pinot Noir (California). This 95 Robles). For full review see page 4. low level of tannin and a smooth texture. —J.G. 84 is a serviceable, medium-bodied wine that abv: 15% Price: $56 abv: 13.5% Price: $16 smells a bit like cough syrup but pulls off decent black-cherry and plum flavors on a smooth texture. Davies 2017 Renteria 360 Vineyard Cabernet Michael Pozzan 2017 Giapoza Pinot Noir (Cali- —J.G. 95 Sauvignon (Oakville). Layered in black olive, 87 fornia). Quite ripe tasting and showing early abv: 13.5% Price: $15 currant and red and black cherry, this wine is effu- maturity, this full-bodied wine offers dried plum sively perfumed, herbal and balanced, with a tre- and raisin flavors, a rich texture and full body. —J.G. mendous amount of underling power. Toasted oak abv: 13.5% Price: $18 CABERNET SAUVIGNON and clove dust the fruit and provide a mineral com- ponent that contrasts well, accentuating its overall Mirassou 2018 Pinot Noir (California). For Joseph Phelps 2017 Insignia Cabernet Sauvi- structure. —V.B. 87 full review see page 23. Best Buy. 97 gnon (Napa Valley). This estate-grown blend abv: 14.9% Price: $100 abv: 13.9% Price: $12 combines 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc, allowing the main variety J. Davies 2016 Jamie Cabernet Sauvignon Tassajara 2018 Pinot Noir (Monterey). Dark- to speak loudest. Gorgeously perfumed, it unfurls 95 (Diamond Mountain District). For full review 87 berry and plum aromas meet with roasted wave after wave of cassis, dusty rock and cocoa see page 4. Cellar Selection­ . meat and red flowers on the nose of this bottling. powder—seasonings that boost secondary charac- abv: 14.9% Price: $225 A creamy texture carries cranberry and river-stone teristics of black and red currant and cherry. With flavors across the pleasant (if simple) palate. —M.K. structure and complexity to spare, it should do Kintera Wines 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 13.5% Price: $15 well over time; enjoy best from 2027–2032. Cellar 95 (Rutherford). For full review see page 4. Selection­ . —V.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $150 Trinity Oaks 2018 Pinot Noir (California). abv: 14.5% Price: $300 87 This firm-textured and tangy wine is nicely Mira 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville). structured for pairing with rich protein dishes. Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2017 S.L.V. Estate 95 For full review see page 5. Cellar Selection. Vivid cranberry and red-cherry flavors are accented 97 Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap abv: 15% Price: $144 by light toast and baking spices. Best Buy. —J.G. District).­ For full review see page 3. Cellar Selec- abv: 13.5% Price: $9 tion. Seven Apart 2018 Expedition Cabernet Sau- abv: 14.8% Price: $195 95 vignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice. Alpha Omega 2017 Beckstoffer To Kalon abv: 15.2% Price: $135 96 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville).

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Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2017 Fay Estate Vina Robles 2017 Mountain Road Reserve Faust 2017 The Pact Cabernet Sauvignon 95 Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap Dis- 94 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). FFor full 92 (Coombsville). From the coolish appellation trict). For full review see page 5. Cellar Selection. review see page 9. in a warm vintage, this robust red offers thick, rich abv: 14.8% Price: $150 abv: 14.5% Price: $56 layers of blackberry, dark cherry and cocoa powder, sinewy tannins providing a sturdy foundation that Anthem Winery 2016 Estate Cabernet Sau- Chappellet 2017 Signature Cabernet Sau- adds to its overall power. Underlying acidity pro- 94 vignon (Mount Veeder). For full review see 93 vignon (Napa Valley). Blended with 10% vides a welcome freshness as a soft finish builds. page 6. Petit Verdot and 8% Malbec this wine delivers —V.B. abv: 15.6% Price: $125 tremendous value, the quality impressive. Sinewy abv: 14.8% Price: $NA and intensely concentrated in black fruit, iron and Bacio Divino 2017 An Artful Red Wine Caber- crushed rock, it has secondary aspects of dried herb Harrington 2018 Wheeler Vineyard Cabernet 94 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Sourced from and leather that expand across the palate volup- 92 Sauvignon (San Benito County). Black-plum, Beckstoffer Heritage Vineyards, this red includes tuously. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. crushed berry and crushed rock aromas show on the 4% Sangiovese. Soft, velvety red and black cherry abv: 14.5% Price: $70 nose of this bottling, which aims to be a leaner style adorn sweet tannin, integrated oak and lifted acid- of Cab. The palate is very tense and chalky, with ity, making for a balanced, cohesive whole of full- Four Vines 2018 The Kinker Cabernet Sauvi- tannins wrapped around the fresh blackberry and bodied richness. —V.B. 93 gnon (Paso Robles). For full review see page black-plum flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $110 10. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.3% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $18 Davies 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena).­ Highway 12 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali- 94 Woody in spice and oak, this appellation Pegasus Estate 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon 92 fornia). For full review see page 13. Editors’ wine is powerfully built, with a lift of acidity that 93 (Santa Ynez Valley). Though five years old, Choice. keeps it fresh and lively in the glass. Cigar box, this wine is still quite young and tightly wrapped in abv: 13.9% Price: $17 tobacco and ample red fruit glide across the pal- a savory coating. Aromas of baked black cherry and ate with ease and length, integrated in tannin and blueberry meet with crushed rocks, dried herbs and Patland 2016 Select Barrel Reserve Stage- weight. —V.B. leather on the nose. The palate is very dry, full of 92 coach Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa abv: 14.8% Price: $85 oregano and more leather, with a bit of black plum. Valley). Dusty, woody oak dominates on the entry of —M.K. this wine, settling into a complementary relation- Diamond Creek 2017 Gravelly Meadow Cab- abv: 14.8% Price: $45 ship with its thick blue-fruit and supple tannin. 94 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Richly con- Clove, black pepper, crushed rock and tobacco pro- centrated yet elegant in style, this wine is brimming Alpha Omega 2017 Stagecoach Vineyard vide savory contrast and complexity. —V.B. in dense layers of baked plum, mocha and leather. 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Atlas Peak). This is abv: 14.8% Price: $NA The tannins are sinewy and supportive, with great a thick and herbal wine from the great site, richly structure and power. —V.B. woven in cigar box, clove and toasted oak. Struc- The Hideaway 2018 Time Will Tell, We Won’t abv: 14.5% Price: $250 tured and dusty on the palate in iron and crushed 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Barbara County).­ rock, it has a richness of underlying cassis and dark Fresh and snappy black- and red-fruit aromas meet Diamond Creek 2017 Red Rock Terrace currant and should do well in the cellar. Enjoy best with wet stone and light herbs on the nose of this 94 ­Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). From from 2027–2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B. bottling. The palate is fresh and fun with black pep- a part of the property deep in rocky soils and rich abv: 14.6% Price: $NA percorns, crisp blackberry and richer black-cherry in iron, this wine offers a wealth of herbal intensity tones that ride acidity into the finish. —M.K. and dusty rock. Light baking spices highlight the Darioush 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa abv: 15.1% Price: $50 well-integrated oak, pillowy tannin structure and 92 Valley). Incorporating 20% Merlot as well elegant black fruit, finishing in a cohesive, seamless as a smattering of Malbec and Petit Verdot, this is Beringer 2017 Distinctions Cabernet Sauvi- whole of ripe balance. —V.B. a rich, layered wine that is soft and supple on the 91 gnon (Napa Valley). Jammy red plum and abv: 14.5% Price: $250 palate. Cedar, black pepper and dried herb highlight cherry highlight a soft, supple palate that presents a seamless stretch of tannin as bold flavors of black as lush and velvety—a reflection of its full-bodied Ghost Block 2017 Ghost Block Vineyard and red currant cut in, finishing in mocha. —V.B. roundedness and rich style. The price point is fair 94 ­Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville). Entirely abv: 14.8% Price: $108 and overdelivers on the wine’s broad appeal. —V.B. varietal, this bold red is herbal and earthy, brim- abv: 14.8% Price: $50 ming in cedar, clove and blue fruit. Robust and Edge 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (­Alexander hearty, it has a graceful undercurrent of freshness 92 Valley). This wine offers outstanding value, Cakebread 2017 Dancing Bear Ranch Cabernet and lively acidity, providing a seamless, structured blending in small amounts of Merlot and ­Petite 91 Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). With 10% experience of length and elegance. —V.B. Sirah and spending 18 months in French oak. Cabernet Franc and 1% Merlot, this mountain wine abv: 14.5% Price: $100 Dark, brooding blackberry and plum flavors meet a is tannic and structured, with brawny, leathery heartiness of toast and caramel in a powerfully built black and blue fruit. Softened on the midpalate, it Janzen 2017 Cloudy’s Vineyard Cabernet Sau- ­experience of approachable smoothness and length. builds additional intensity toward the finish, end- 94 vignon (Napa Valley). From the ­producer’s Editors’ Choice. —V.B. ing in a note of clove, black pepper and toasted oak. estate vineyard on the eastern side of the valley, abv: 13.9% Price: $25 —V.B. this 100% varietal wine opens in a wealth of nut- abv: 14.9% Price: $155 meg, cinnamon and clove, giving it a spicy edge on Eleven Eleven 2016 Laki’s Vineyard Estate the palate. Dark fruit, toasted oak and thick tannin 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak Knoll District). Dusty Nabor 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso wrap around each other in well-integrated layers of This full-bodied, ripe wine is soft and richly layered 91 Robles Geneseo District). Subtle aromas of power and structure. —V.B. in a warmth of baking spice and mellow tannin, the smashed berries and light violet make for a mel- abv: 15.1% Price: $165 fruit jammy and lush. Baked cherry, cassis and a trace low, measured entry into the nose of this bottling of vanilla accent the toasted oak and make for an from an appellation on the east side of Paso Robles. appealingly cohesive experience on the palate. —V.B. The palate is cohesive with açaí, Concord grape and abv: 15.1% Price: $125 dark-berry-sorbet flavors, enhanced by wood spice,

116 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 light pepper and purple flowers, with lingering acid- etal wine, the tannins well integrated and showing cassis and currant. The oak is well integrated and ity into the finish. —M.K. soft, supple appeal. Mocha, toasted oak and vanilla nuanced in toasty notes. There’s a softness to the abv: 14.5% Price: $65 round out the experience on the palate, dotted in midpalate that appeals in balanced lushness. —V.B. black pepper and clove. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 J. Davies 2017 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14.9% Price: $100 91 gnon (Diamond Mountain District). A hearty, Hook or Crook 2018 Reserve Cabernet Sau- iron-rich and red-fruited estate wine from the high- Wilson Creek 2018 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- 90 vignon (Lodi). For full review see apge 20. elevation mountain, delivers this wine with bold, 91 gnon (Temecula Valley). Dried berry aromas abv: 13.5% Price: $24 beautiful layers of complex flavor and texture. Dusty, meet with crushed rocks, dusty soil and hints of crushed rock components add to its earthy core. sagebrush on the nose of this reserve bottling. It’s Michael Pozzan 2018 Giapoza Cabernet Sau- —V.B. lighter bodied in style, offering muddled strawberry 90 vignon (California). For full review see page abv: 14.8% Price: $120 and red-plum flavors with a mineral-driven, rocky- 21. flavored core, leading into an oregano-dusted finish. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Lucas & Lewellen 2017 Cote Del Sol Valley —M.K. 91 View Vineyard Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sau- abv: 13.5% Price: $65 Noble Vines 2018 337 Cabernet Sauvignon vignon (Santa Ynez Valley). For full review see page 90 (California). For full review see page 22. 16. A. Toraño 2016 Mi Cielo Vineyard Cabernet Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $38 90 Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This wine abv: 14.5% Price: $15 has rich red fruit with well-integrated acidity and McPrice Myers 2018 Bull by the Horns Cab- is well structured, with full-bodied ripeness and Paulownia 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (St. 91 ernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Blackberry, ­power. Hints of baking spice and clove liven the 90 Helena). Made from Glass Mountain Vine- lilac, cinnamon and clove aromas converge on the black cherry and cassis. —V.B. yard in St. Helena and Williamson in Oak Knoll, this complex nose of this bottling. The palate ranges abv: 14.8% Price: $55 100% varietal wine is aged in 100% new French from hibiscus and cherry to strawberry and rose oak. Woody, herbal, savory and feral, it has subdued petals, with plenty of layers to keep the taste buds Bartholomew Estate 2018 Estate Grown black fruit, sage, leather and tobacco that ride along entertained. —M.K. 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). For a thickness of tannin. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $20 full review see page 18. abv: 14.4% Price: $145 abv: 15% Price: $60 Mettler Family Vineyards 2018 Estate Grown Pull 2017 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). For full review Beringer 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa 90 (Paso ­Robles). For full review see page 21. see page 17. 90 Valley). This wine offers great value for the Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 quality, a weighty and intense expression of dark abv: 14% Price: $16 plum, woody oak and baking spice. Notes of iron, My Story 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso clove and tobacco add to the firm, supple tannin and Shannon Ridge 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sau- 91 Robles).­ For full review see page 17. structure. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. 90 vignon (Lake County). Big, very ripe and abv: 13.7% Price: $17 abv: 15.5% Price: $22 velvety, this full-bodied wine is packed with black cherry, black fig and a dash of baking spices. It’s Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2018 Artemis Caber- Bluewing Vineyards 2017 Cabernet Sauvi- quite smooth, moderately tannic and easy to sip. 91 net Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review 90 gnon (Sonoma County). For full review see —J.G. see page 18. Editors’ Choice. page 18. abv: 15.6% Price: $32 abv: 14.5% Price: $75 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 Truchard 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Carne- Vina Robles 2018 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Castello di Amorosa 2016 Rapp Ranch Cab- 90 ros). With 10% Cabernet Franc and 1% 91 (Paso Robles). For full review see page 18. 90 ernet Sauvignon (Coombsville). A 100% each of Petit Verdot and Malbec, this elegant red is abv: 14.5% Price: $26 varietal wine from one site, this red is earthy and soft, supple and rounded in cassis and black cherry. wild, with thick, concentrated blackberry and rich Nuanced oak allows room for a hint of baking spice, Whitehall Lane 2017 Leonardini Estate Cab- vanilla. The tannins are intensely structured and clove and vanilla to complement the fruit. Editors’ 91 ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A broad, powerfully smooth. —V.B. Choice. —V.B. fleshy and lengthy wine, 100% varietal, this wine is abv: 14.9% Price: $195 abv: 14.2% Price: $40 dark and brooding in black cherry and cassis, with complementary accents of crushed rock and cocoa Castoro Cellars 2018 Estate Grown Cabernet Whitehall Lane 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon powder. Toasted oak and vanilla round out the plush 90 Sauvignon (Paso Robles). For full review 90 (Napa Valley). A small addition of Petit finish. —V.B. see page 19. Verdot adds to the full-bodied power of this wine, abv: 14.9% Price: $85 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 approachable in its well-integrated tannin and oak. Brawny blackberry and currant ride alongside Whitehall Lane 2017 Leonardini Vineyard Cab- Covenant 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa ­mocha, vanilla and woody toasted notes. —V.B. 91 ernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). Forceful tan- 90 Valley). This is a 100% varietal wine, pow- abv: 14.8% Price: $46 nins dominate in this powerful, youthful wine from erfully structured and full-bodied, with intensely the producer’s own estate. Entirely varietal, it is robust black fruit. Soft, supple tannin and inte- Whitehall Lane 2017 Mancino Lanciatore densely built, ripe and lush in cassis, black cherry grated oak give it a rounded opulence that makes it 90 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Blended and blackberry, with a finishing touch of caramel delicious and enjoyable in its youth. Kosher. —V.B. with 6% Petit Verdot, this is a thick, leathery and oak. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $100 tannic red wine, robust in both new and neutral abv: 14.8% Price: $125 oak. Dry, it offers black currant, tobacco, cedar and Emerson Brown 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon clove within an approachable, full-bodied package. Whitehall Lane 2017 Millennium MM Vineyard 90 (Napa Valley). From a variety of sites, this —V.B. 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). Dark- good-value wine overdelivers on its price point, abv: 14.9% Price: $68 cherry and berry fruit dominates in this 100% vari- offering sanguine notes of olive, crushed rock and

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Allan Hancock 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon moderate tannins. It’s a very good, substantial wine blackberry sauce at first before offering more com- 89 (Central Coast). Ripe red-berry aromas are to pair with red meat. —J.G. plex hints of wild mint and tea leaves. —M.K. jammy on the nose of this bottling, yet the pepper abv: 13.8% Price: $23 abv: 14% Price: $31 and herb components hold the attention. Oregano and pepper meet with oak and dark red fruit on the Chateau Souverain 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Martin Ranch 2017 JD Hurley Cabernet Sau- palate, which shows a slight tang of acidity. —M.K. 88 (California). For full review see page 23. 88 vignon (Santa Cruz Mountains). Candied abv: 13.4% Price: $15 Best Buy. boysenberry aromas lead into tobacco, pepper and abv: 13.9% Price: $10 espresso-bean scents on the nose of this bottling. Buena Vista 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon The fruit flavors are very ripe and syrup-like on the 89 (North Coast). This full-bodied wine is DNA Vineyards 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon palate, where tangy black-plum, coffee and charred quite concentrated and firmly tannic, packing in 88 (Dry Creek Valley). Pencil shavings, cedar oak elements converge. —M.K. dense black-olive and bell-pepper flavors that are and oak accent this medium-bodied, elegant red that abv: 14.2% Price: $30 accented by vanilla and cedar. While a bit gangly is smooth and moderate in structure. Approachable now, it should be pretty tasty after 2021. —J.G. and value minded, it has flavors of dark cherry, cur- Mount Veeder 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.5% Price: $15 rant and vanilla. —V.B. 88 (Napa Valley). Tasting of blueberry coffee abv: 14% Price: $25 cake, this is a soft, supple and approachable red G & C Lurton 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon wine, firm in tannin and robust in dusty rock and 89 (Sonoma­ County). This wine is subdued Donati Family Vineyard 2016 Ezio Cabernet mocha. It delivers bold, robust flavor without fuss. in fruit and earthy in leather, dried herb and barn- 88 Sauvignon (Paicines). Baked cherry, stewed —V.B. yard, with restrained ripeness and classic structure. plum, toasted herbs and concentrated violet aromas abv: 14.5% Price: $44 —V.B. show on the nose of this bottling. The dried herbs abv: 13.9% Price: $NA of marjoram, oregano and pepper rise up during the Mount Veeder 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon sip, where blackberry-jam, smoked meat and black- 88 (Napa Valley). This value-minded red is Hook or Crook 2018 Vintners Select ­Cabernet olive flavors align. —M.K. ­robust in red and black berry and powerful, youth- 89 Sauvignon (Lodi). Bold, concentrated but abv: 14.3% Price: $35 ful tannin. Cedar, dried herb and toasted oak pro- soft, this full-bodied wine boasts a core of black vide structure and seasoning. —V.B. cherry and blueberry, generous baking spice and Kaena 2016 Stag Canyon Vineyard Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $44 woodsmoke accents, all wrapped in a creamy 88 Sauvignon (Los Olivos District). Robust aro- ­texture. —J.G. mas of black cherry, tangy plum skin, caramel and NSO By Dusty Nabor 2018 NSO Cabernet abv: 13.5% Price: $20 cola show on the nose of this bottling. The palate 88 Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Clean lines of is loaded with extracted black-plum fruit flavors, strawberry, raspberry and cherry meet with light Occasio 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Liver- with touches of cocoa, remaining quite tangy into oregano, marjoram, pepper and light smoke on the 89 more Valley). Packed with superripe black the f­inish. —M.K. nose of this bottling. The palate is dusted with fen- fruits, this full-bodied and lightly tannic wine is abv: 14.7% Price: $75 nel pollen that gives depth to the ripe cherry-paste concentrated and mouthfilling. Dried cherries, lines that approach sweetness through the sip. black olives and prunes flood the taste buds. —J.G. Katherine Goldschmidt 2018 Stone Mason —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $35 88 Hill Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $20 A simple, approachable and 100% varietal wine, Opolo 2017 Reserve Collection Cabernet this is brightly concentrated in red fruit, with soft, Raywood 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Central 89 Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Strong aromas supple tannins and well-integrated oak. Having 88 Coast). Dried cherry, cured meat and lava- of dried thyme and oregano lead into blackberry, spent 12 months in barrel, it has heft without being rock aromas show on the nose of this twist-top bot- baked soil and crushed stone on the nose of this heavy. —V.B. tling. Fairly stiff tannins uphold the palate, where bottling. Those herbal elements rise on the sip as abv: 14.3% Price: $24 dark red berries meet with tea-leaf and coffee-bean well, meeting with fig paste and berry jam on the flavors.Best Buy. —M.K. finish. —M.K. Kendall-Jackson 2017 Grand Reserve Caber- abv: 13% Price: $9 abv: 14.8% Price: $55 88 net Sauvignon (Sonoma County). This wine is juicy and intensely powerful, combining 11% Robert Mondavi 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Peachy Canyon 2018 Devine Cabernet Sauvi- Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot into the whole. Con- 88 (Oakville). With 12% Petit Verdot, 12% 89 gnon (Paso Robles). Savory aromas of dried centrated in tannin, oak, blackberry and dried herb, Cabernet Franc and smaller amounts of Malbec and meat, crushed herbs, peppercorn and ripe, dark the fruit comes from predominantly Alexander Val- Merlot, this wine is thick and intensely concen- fruits show on the nose of this bottling. There’s ley, with a splash from Knights Valley, finishing trated in dense red fruit. Supple tannins are dotted a strong cherry-jam streak to the palate, which is with dark-chocolate and vanilla notes. —V.B. in leather, clove and toasted oak. —V.B. lifted by dried herbs and spearmint tones. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 abv: 14.5% Price: $65 abv: 14% Price: $45 LangeTwins 2017 Estate Grown Cabernet Shannon Ridge 2018 Buck Shack Cabernet Porlier 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (T­empleton 88 Sauvignon (Lodi). This robust and mod- 88 Sauvignon (Lake County). Lush, dark and 89 Gap District). Candied red-cherry, tangy erately tannic wine is packed with blackberry saturated with flavor, this velvety textured wine is ­berry and dried fennel-stalk aromas show on the and black-cherry flavors and has a full body that practically syrupy in its degree of concentration and nose of this bottling. The palate combines smashed ­encourages a generous, broad mouthfeel. —J.G. ripeness. Full body and moderate tannins give it a plum and cherry with savory peppercorn, leather abv: 14% Price: $15 good grip on the palate. —J.G. and dried meat flavors. —M.K. abv: 15.2% Price: $35 abv: 14.6% Price: $30 Made by James 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon 88 (San Lucas). Layered aromas of dark berry, Shannon Ridge 2018 High Elevation Col- Skyside 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (North cocoa and wood show on the nose of this bottling 88 lection Cabernet Sauvignon (Lake County). 89 Coast). Well structured and balanced, this from southern Monterey County. The palate shows E­ffusive fruitiness gives this well-structured wine a full-bodied wine fills the palate with ripe but not very tempting profile. It is relatively soft and creamy jammy plum and black-cherry flavors backed by

118 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 on the palate, stuffed with black-cherry and choco- black pepper give a spicy edge to this full-bodied, rind and red vermouth and strong herb and candied late-covered-cherry flavors. —J.G. moderately tannic wine that shows decent black- cherry flavors. Definitely an outlier. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $23 berry flavors underneath. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.9% Price: $48 SIX26 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Great Bear 2016 The Graduate Cabernet 88 Coast). Lighter aromas of red currant, dried 75 Wine Co. 2019 Feliz Creek Vineyard Cab- 82 Sauvignon (Yolo County). Ripe and overripe herb, pepper and wet rocks show on the nose of 86 ernet Sauvignon (Mendocino County). Bay- fruit flavors and a balsamic note make this full- this bottling. There’s a compelling herbal touch to leaf, clove and juicy plum flavors give this smooth, bodied and very mature wine extreme in style. —J.G. the palate, where oregano and marjoram meet with medium-bodied wine a savory profile. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $29 brisk red-plum flavors, leading into a riper finish. abv: 14.8% Price: $20 —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $29 Cuda Ridge 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- CABERNET FRANC 86 gnon (Livermore Valley). An earthy aroma The Counselor 2017 River Pass Vineyard Cab- and chocolate, cherry and tobacco flavors rest on Harrington 2018 Calleri Vineyard Cabernet 88 ernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). With a smooth texture revealing low acidity and soft 94 Franc (San Benito County). Extremely fresh up-front toasty oak and notes of cedar, this full- t­annins. —J.G. aromas of tiny wild berries and red currants meet bodied wine is soft and approachable, with rich, abv: 14.5% Price: $60 with dusty herbs, turned soil, wet rocks, dried meat rounded tannin. The fruit is a mix of dark cherry, and a hint of leather on the nose of this bottling. currant and cranberry, delivering ample flavor and Frey 2019 Organic Cabernet Sauvignon The sip is zesty, lively and very fresh as well, com- body weight. —V.B. 86 (North Coast). Black-pepper and veggie fla- bining those brisk red-fruit flavors with generous abv: 14.5% Price: $25 vors accompany firm tannins and a full body in this acidity and a very rocky minerality. —M.K. rustic but enjoyable wine. —J.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $25 The Show 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cali- abv: 14% Price: $17 88 fornia). This bold and full-bodied wine is Brady Vineyard 2018 Cabernet Franc (Paso very deep in color, offers exuberant crushed berry McManis 2019 Estate Grown Cabernet Sau- 91 Robles).­ For full review see page 16. aromas and very fruity, concentrated flavors that 86 vignon (Lodi). This full-bodied wine offers abv: 15% Price: $26 are nicely wrapped in moderate tannins. —J.G. obvious wood-char aromas and oaky, cedary, pep- abv: 13.8% Price: $15 pery flavors atop bright, fresh cherry-berry fruit. Castelli Family Vineyards 2015 Cabernet —J.G. 88 Franc (Ramona Valley). Extracted aromas Whitehall Lane 2018 Rassi Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 of blackberry syrup and charred wood consume the 88 gnon (Sonoma Valley). Blended with 15% nose on this bottling from San Diego County. There Merlot, this affordable red is nutty and herbal in Old Soul 2108 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). are soy-sauce and smoked beef flavors on the palate, cedar, with strong elements of toasted oak. Dark 86 This is a good, straightforward, medium- as well as a strong berry tone. —M.K. fruit presents as full bodied and deeply concen- bodied wine, offering ripe and juicy berry flavors abv: 13.4% Price: $40 trated, with moderate structure giving it a supple and light tannins. —J.G. foundation of power. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $13 abv: 14.8% Price: $30 MERLOT Sebastiani 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (North Francis Coppola 2018 Diamond Collection 86 Coast). This full-bodied and moderately Arietta 2018 Hudson Vineyards Merlot 87 Claret Cabernet Sauvignon (California). This tannic wine is very ripe and rowdy. Balsamic, 95 (Napa Valley). This is a deliciously memo- full-bodied wine is mostly soft in texture and light woodsmoke and cooked cherry flavors ride a rather rable Merlot, youthful in tannin and oak, with an in tannins, allowing the ample baking-spice, straw- coarse texture. —J.G. herbal, earthy elegance that remains lengthy on the berry and brown-sugar flavors to coat the palate. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 palate. Dark chocolate, crushed rock and beautiful —J.G. black fruit balance against each other and provide abv: 13.5% Price: $21 Winemakers Selection 2018 Cabernet Sauvi- substance and great style. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. 86 gnon (California). A light smoky aroma and abv: 14.9% Price: $75 LangeTwins 2017 Railroad Vineyard Cabernet salt-and-pepper flavors give this wine a good, meaty 87 Sauvignon (Jahant). This wine is rich in fla- expression. It is medium bodied, light in tannin and Arietta 2017 Hudson Vineyards Merlot (Napa vor and texture. It is full in feel and offers dark plum easy to sip. Best Buy. —J.G. 94 Valley). Nutmeg and clove accent a depth of and a bit of dark chocolate on the palate. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $6 complex length and breadth in this vineyard-desig- abv: 14% Price: $32 nated wine, from the coolness of Carneros. Cedar, Pacific Redwood 2019 Organic Cabernet currant and plum adorn the midpalate with a soft- Retzlaff 2016 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sau- 84 Sauvignon (North Coast). Fresh blueberry ness at its heart, finishing in toasted oak and ample 87 vignon (Livermore Valley). This snappy but and grape aromas lead to a rather light texture and tannin. —V.B. full-bodied wine made from organic grapes offers lean herb and berry flavors in this full-bodied wine. abv: 14.9% Price: $75 generous, fresh, red- and black-cherry flavors backed —J.G. by good fruit acidity for a lip-smacking texture. —J.G. abv: 14% Price: $17 Bonterra 2018 Made with Organic Grapes Mer- abv: 14.5% Price: $42 91 lot (California). For full review see page 15. Rare NV Red Cabernet Sauvignon (C­alifornia). abv: 13.9% Price: $16 Rubus 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). 84 A rubber-tire aroma gets this wine off to an 87 This smooth and medium-bodied wine is awkward start, before it shows decent black-plum Brady Vineyard 2018 Merlot (Paso Robles). generous and fruity, adding baking spices for a bit and woodsmoke flavors on the palate. —J.G. 91 For full review see page 16. of complexity. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 15% Price: $24 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Stave & Steel 2017 Bourbon Barrel Cabernet Makor 2015 Westside Bien Nacido Vineyards Vina Moda 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sierra­ 83 Sauvignon (California). This full-bodied 91 Merlot (Santa Barbara County). Roasted 87 Foothills). A topping of woodsmoke and wine is a bit of a jumble, showing aromas like tama- cranberry, iron and fennel stalk aromas show on

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BUYINGGUIDE the nose of this bottling by Jim Adelman, who has on the nose of this bottling, which needs a good run the day-to-day at Au Bon Climat winery for amount of time to unwind and find its footing. The MALBEC decades. The palate’s dried berry and baked cherry palate is both ripe and tangy, combining blackberry flavors are enhanced by crushed herbs and light and clove flavors. —M.K. Cuda Ridge 2017 Reserve Malbec (Livermore pepper spice. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 93 Valley). Wonderful aromas of balsam and abv: 13.5% Price: $NA cedar give way to warm, broad, grilled plum and Postmark 2018 Merlot (Napa Valley). cooked blueberries in this full-bodied wine. Soft Retzlaff 2018 Estate Bottled Merlot (Liver- 88 ­Perfumed in baking spice, this is a soft, tannins give an especially velvety texture that pulls 91 more Valley). For full review see page 17. juicy and rounded wine that will appeal widely and the tempting flavors through a lingering finish. abv: 14.3% Price: $49 is value-minded in price. Dark-plum, cherry and Editors’­ Choice. —J.G. vanilla flavors wrap around the toasted oak and abv: 14.8% Price: $60 Retzlaff 2014 Estate Bottled Merlot (Liver- supple, integrated tannin. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. 91 more Valley). For full review see page 17. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Mount Saint Joseph Wines 2017 Malbec abv: 14.4% Price: $36 92 (Sierra­ Foothills). This absolutely mouth- Sand Point 2017 Merlot (Clarksburg). filling and delicious wine packs extra-ripe black- Bargetto 2018 Regan Vineyards Reserve 88 ­Attractive, complex notes of dried thyme cherry and blackberry flavors into a firmly tannic 90 Merlot (Santa Cruz Mountains). Black- and sage complement tasty red- and black-cherry but and high-octane structure. The intense fruit plum, roasted meat, purple-flower and charcoal flavors in this medium- to full-bodied wine. A concentration is a treat to experience now, but best aromas show on the nose of this reserve bottling. light layer of fine-grained tannins gives it a velvety from 2024. —J.G. The palate is tightly wound, delivering flavors of mouthfeel. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 15.3% Price: $39 blackberry, blueberry, and woodsmoke across a abv: 14% Price: $11 tense tannic framing. —M.K. Peachy Canyon 2018 Ms Behave Malbec abv: 13.9% Price: $40 Vina Moda 2018 Merlot (Sierra Foothills). 92 (Paso Robles). For full review see page 14. 88 Dark and luscious, this full-bodied but abv: 14.3% Price: $40 Muirwood 2018 Merlot (Arroyo Seco). For smooth-textured wine is filled to the brim with ripe 90 full review see page 22. Best Buy. black-plum and blackberry flavors and accented Allan Hancock 2018 Malbec (Santa Barbara abv: 14.2% Price: $15 with cocoa. —J.G. 91 County). This is a fun and sprightly take on abv: 14.7% Price: $32 Malbec by the students at this Santa Maria col- Oberon 2018 Merlot (Napa Valley). With the lege, starting with crisp aromas of black raspberry, 90 addition of nearly 11% Syrah and just under Whitehall Lane 2017 Merlot (Napa Valley). seared beef and crumbled flowers. There is a pep- 2% Zinfandel, this is a hearty red with both fruit 87 Blended with 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and pery spice to the palate, where white-pepper, dried and spice on the nose. Supple, velvety texture is 2% Petit Verdot, this is an intensely built, full- meat and fresh raspberry flavors converge.Editors’ highlighted in bold flavors of cassis, raspberry and bodied varietal wine, tannic and robust in oak. Choice. —M.K. plum, finishing with ease. —V.B. Baking spice, graphite and dried herb season ripe abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.9% Price: $23 c­ranberry, currant and plum. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $32 Europa Village 2017 C’est la Vie Malbec Occasio 2017 Thatcher Bay Vineyard Merlot 90 (Temecula Valley). Roasted cherry, light 90 (Livermore Valley). Absolutely fresh and Maggio 2018 Merlot (Lodi). This medium- clove, caramel and a hint of baked fennel show on alive, this medium-bodied wine is packed with just- 86 bodied wine is centered on good black-fruit the nose of this bottling. Hearty flavors of black- picked blackberry and raspberry flavors that are flavors and generously accented by notes of men- berry meet with licorice on the palate, which is bal- lifted by light tannins and a touch of fruit acidity. It thol, black pepper and olive. Best Buy. —J.G. anced by just enough acid. —M.K. is nicely balanced and appetizing. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 14.9% Price: $45 abv: 14.2% Price: $35 Ryder Estate 2018 Merlot (Central Coast). Kaena 2016 Stag Canyon Vineyard Malbec Midnight 2017 Merlot (Paso Robles Willow 86 Turned soil, dried herbs, clay and dried red 90 (Los Olivos District). Very dark aromas of 89 Creek District). Blackberry, mahogany and fruits show on the nose of this bottling. The soil and black currant, prune and bourbon show on the nose crushed gravel aromas show on the nose of this bot- clay flavors are prominent on the palate, where light of this bottling. There is intense fruit character to tling. The tannins are very firm on the palate, where red-berry tones show in the background and tan- the palate, where lavish tannins frame flavors of a zesty acidity delivers dark-berry flavors. —M.K. nins add grip toward the finish. —M.K. smoked fig paste, thick cassis and loads of vanilla. abv: 15.9% Price: $44 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 Chateau Souverain 2018 Merlot (California).­ Spellbound 2017 Merlot (California). This 88 For full review see page 23. Best Buy. 86 medium-bodied wine offers fresh, tangy Martin Ranch 2016 Therese Vineyards Dos abv: 13.9% Price: $10 red-fruit flavors and a strong baking-spice element 89 Ninas Vineyard Malbec (Santa Clara Valley). of cloves, cinnamon and cardamom. It’s an extreme Toasted grape-seed, dried herbs and black-currant Chelsea Goldschmidt 2018 Guidestone Rise style of wine and memorable for its fragrant spices. aromas show on the nose of this bottling. There is 88 Merlot (Alexander Valley). Made entirely —J.G. solid black fruit to the palate, where cedar and euca- from Merlot, this red is leathery and made in a abv: 13.5% Price: $15 lyptus spice also make for an herbal kick. —M.K. hearty, Cabernet-like style, with thick tannins and abv: 14.7% Price: $42 robust oak. Black pepper, cigar box and dark, brood- Kwaya 2019 Organic Merlot (North Coast). ing fruit figure into the profile, with baking spice 83 Berry and herb aromas and earthy, meaty Wilson Creek 2017 Reserve Malbec (Temecula and vanilla up front on the finish. —V.B. flavors make this full-bodied wine appealing. It 89 Valley). Lightly colored in the glass, this abv: 14.5% Price: $18 turns tannic on the palate and has a smoky finish. bottling begins with aromas of raspberry juice, —J.G. toasted peppercorns, cured meat and charcoal on Kaena 2016 Estelle Vineyard Merlot (Los abv: 14% Price: $18 the nose. The mouthfeel is both delicate and taut, 88 Olivos District). Very ripe aromas of black plum, purple flowers and tart grape juice show

120 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 with flavors of smashed cranberry, light pepper and Folded Hills 2019 Cluster Grenache (Santa tics. While full bodied, the wine is low in tannin and savory meats. It is a light style of Malbec. —M.K. 93 Ynez Valley). This whole-cluster, carbonic stays supersmooth on the palate. —J.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $55 bottling manages to capture the fresh factor of such abv: 14.6% Price: $50 a regime while retaining plenty of unique savory and Arianna 2017 Malbec (Red Hills). This full- spice qualities. Transparent in the glass, this begins Dusty Nabor 2019 NSO Grenache (Paso ­Robles). 87 bodied and mature-tasting wine offers dried with aromas of pomegranate, Ruby Red grapefruit, 91 Tart red-plum aromas play against richer herb and balsamic aromas, tomato-leaf and raisin green sage and eucalyptus. The palate is snappy and strawberry and purple-flower tones on the nose flavors and a lightly tannic texture. —J.G. grippy with raspberry, tarragon and dewy thyme of this very fairly priced bottling. The palate packs abv: 14.5% Price: $55 ­flavors. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. fresh fruit-punch and strawberry flavors with abv: 14.5% Price: $37 pleasantly sour acidity, making for a lively sip. Editors’­ Choice. —M.K. GRENACHE Kaena 2017 Ali’i Grenache (Santa Ynez Val- abv: 14.5% Price: $18 93 ley). This is an attention-grabbing style of Birichino 2018 Besson Vineyard Old Vines Grenache, starting with aromas of candied cherry Hungry Hawk 2018 Estate Grenache (San 94 ­Grenache (Central Coast). From vines and black-cardamom cream. There is a firm grip 91 Diego County). Very light in the glass, this planted in 1910, this wine impresses on multiple lev- to the frame of the sip, where rich and ripe black- bottling from Southern California shows candied els. Aromas of dark berry, strawberry, dried thyme cherry and baked red-currant flavors are spiced cherry, dried hibiscus, chai-spice and crushed stone and turned soil are both rustic and refined. The pal- with mace and nutmeg. Generous acidity keeps aromas on the nose. The palate is crisp with red ate is framed by fresh acidity and a delightful rocky ­everything in check. —M.K. fruit and lively acidity, all laid across a pleasantly minerality, which give depth to the cranberry,­ rasp- abv: 15.2% Price: $55 tense, rocky texture. —M.K. berry and herbal flavors.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $44 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Kaena 2017 Tierra Alta Vineyard Grenache 93 (Ballard Canyon). Lush and lovely aromas of Kaena 2018 La Presa Vineyard Grenache (Los Folded Hills 2018 Estate Grenache (Santa baked currant and frozen strawberry slushie meet 91 Olivos District). This is a Grenache with lots 94 Ynez Valley). Done very much in the per- with wet stone on the juicy yet complex nose of this of guts, starting on dense aromas of charred fruit, sonal style of winemaker Angela Osborne, this is a bottling. The sip lands with intensity and power, cola, rust and turned soil. The is heavy, dense and very lightly colored Grenache that’s full of beautiful structured by firm tannins and buoyant acidity, as rich with dark red and nearly purple fruits, doused aromas of strawberry, rosewater and red shiso leaf, waves of red fruit, spicy pepper and roasted pork in clove and cardamom spice. —M.K. begging for another sip. Brisk red-currant, hibiscus unfold. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $40 and wet stone flavors cling to a taut texture on the abv: 15.3% Price: $50 palate, which finishes with a toasty touch of graham Kaena 2017 Grenache (Santa Ynez Valley). cracker. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. Vie Winery 2015 L’Imaginaire Grenache (Lake 88 Strongly concentrated aromas of cherry abv: 14.2% Price: $70 93 County). Enticing, spicy oak and tobacco syrup and caramel show on the nose of this rich bot- flavors give this gorgeous, full-bodied wine plenty tling. Vanilla and cola spice met with tar and ripe red Harrington 2015 Siletto Vineyard Grenache to like. Attractive earthy and subtly spicy aromas fruits on the palate, where the tannins remains firm. 94 (San Benito County). Grenache is not known give way to complex, perfectly mature flavors and a —M.K. for aging, but this five-year-old bottling remains supersmooth texture. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 15.1% Price: $35 very alive and fresh with aromas of rose petals, car- abv: 14.3% Price: $45 nation and strawberry-basil sorbet. White-pepper Kaena 2016 Alamo Creek Ranch Grenache and snappy cran-raspberry flavors pop on the pal- Grounded Wine Co. 2017 Public Radio 88 (San Luis Obispo County). This bottling ate, finishing on a sour-cherry kick. —M.K. 92 G­renache (Paso Robles). Light aromas of is very dense, extracted and slightly boozy on the abv: 13.8% Price: $30 cranberry, strawberry and cherry are bolstered nose, offering aromas of blackberry pie, nutmeg with an earthy background of freshly dug loam and and bourbon cream. It’s thick on the palate as well, Kaena 2017 Larner Vineyard Grenache (Bal- light sagebrush on the nose of this bottling, which where firm tannins frame flavors of blackberry jam 94 lard Canyon). Lavish spice aromas of root includes 10% Syrah. There’s a compelling balance and prune. —M.K. beer, cola and star anise meet with baked boysen- of toasted sage, crisp red fruit and light smoke on abv: 15.6% Price: $60 berry fruit on the lush nose of this ­multidimensional the flavorful sip. —M.K. single-vineyard bottling. Chalky tannins provide abv: 14.4% Price: $25 Vina Moda 2018 Grenache (Sierra Foothills). tension on the palate, where the berry, flower and 87 Black-pepper and wood-char aromas lead to spice-rack flavors provide plenty to chew on, lead- Midnight 2017 Moonbeam Grenache (Paso concentrated blackberry and woodsmoke flavors in ing into a lingering, vanilla-kissed finish. —M.K. 92 Robles). Dense and gooey aromas of black- this hearty, spicy and full-bodied wine. It’s not very abv: 15.3% Price: $60 berry, red fruit syrup, star anise and chai spice show tannic, so even with all that flavor it sipseasily. ­ —J.G. on the nose of this bottling. There are firm tannins abv: 14.7% Price: $38 Claiborne & Churchill 2018 Spanish Springs that frame the lush flavors of the sip, where baked 93 Vineyard Grenache (San Luis Obispo County). mulberry, plum and fig meet with cardamom cream. This vineyard just miles from the sands of Pismo —M.K. SYRAH Beach makes for very firm Rhône wines, even pre- abv: 15.1% Price: $49 senting Grenache as a perfect candidate for the cel- Terre Rouge 2017 Ascent Syrah (Sierra Foot- lar. Clean aromas of black raspberry, turned loam, Broken Earth 2017 Limited Release Grenache 98 hills). This explosively flavorful, age-worthy dewy sage and a touch of game lead into a minty, 91 (Paso Robles). For full review see page 16. wine combines complexity, power and finesse in a dark-berry palate that’s heavily structured yet still abv: 15% Price: $29 compelling way. Intricate, spicy aromas of graph- playful. Drink 2021–2028. Cellar Selection. —M.K. ite, minerals, black pepper and white pepper lead abv: 14.8% Price: $56 Chiron Wines 2017 Emergent Truth Grenache to a superbly balanced palate of just ripe blackber- 91 (California). A sweet, floral, raisiny aroma is ries, rhubarb and woodsmoke without overdoing Croma Vera 2018 Grenache (Edna Valley). followed by broad and fruity flavors that stay sur- any one element. Great balance and layering are its 93 For full review see page 9. prisingly light for all their sunny, ripe characteris- abv: 14.6% Price: $45

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BUYINGGUIDE hallmarks. Best from 2026–2040. Cellar Selection. Dovecote 2017 Thompson Vineyard Estate Stolpman 2019 Estate Syrah (Ballard —J.G. 94 Syrah (Santa Barbara County). For full 93 Canyon).­ Pure and lively aromas of purple abv: 14.5% Price: $100 review see page 7. flowers, wet rocks and damp soil show on the nose abv: 14.9% Price: $80 of this bottling, which will benefit from a bit of Terre Rouge 2017 Sentinel Oak Vineyard patience. Brisk flavors of raspberry, cola, chalk and 96 Pyramid Block Syrah (Shenandoah Valley). Claiborne & Churchill 2018 Syrah (Edna lavender show much promise on the palate, which Meaty, mineral aromas meet layered and intricate 93 Valley).­ Savory aromas of raw lamb and is tightly wrapped in staff tannins at this young age. flavors of graphite, violet, dried beef and blackberry dried charcuterie meet with light lavender, black Drink 2022–2034. Cellar Selection. —M.K. in this complex and fascinating wine. It goes well pepper and carnation on the savory nose of this abv: 14.1% Price: $30 beyond fruit to bring many enticing nuances of salt, bottling. The palate carries the cured meat element pepper and wet rocks to the palate. Best from 2025. into an array of other flavors, including crisp yet Terre Rouge 2017 High Slopes Syrah (Sierra­ Cellar Selection. —J.G. dark red fruits and rose petals. —M.K. 93 Foothills). This wine exemplifies how com- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 14.6% Price: $38 plex and enticing Syrah can be when it’s not over- ripe, and lets the sage, char and black-pepper aro- Peake Ranch 2018 John Sebastiano Vineyard Claiborne & Churchill 2018 Spanish Springs mas roll. Medium to full bodied, this well-balanced 95 Syrah (Sta. Rita Hills). Darkly roasted aro- 93 Vineyard Syrah (San Luis Obispo County). wine is braced by fine-grained tannins surrounding mas of seared beef, charcoal, blueberry, lavender Crumpled scarlet rose petals, plump violets, açaí satisfying blackberry and black-currant flavors. and purple flowers make for a very intense nose on sorbet and a light hint of charred meat show on Best from 2024. —J.G. this bottling. It’s lavish on the palate, where dark the nose of this bottling. There are ample waves abv: 14.5% Price: $45 berries, nutmeg, star anise and cardamom converge of black pepper on the palate alongside crisp black atop a creamy yet tense mouthfeel. It offers a great ­raspberry, more açaí and graphite flavors, and the Folded Hills 2018 Adolphus Syrah (Santa cohesion of spice, fruit, power and finesse. —M.K. fruit grows much richer with air. —M.K. 92 Ynez Valley). Seared game, pressed black- abv: 14.8% Price: $60 abv: 14.4% Price: $40 berry, roasted meat and a slight hint of sage show on the nose of this bottling. The roasted meat aspect Terre Rouge 2017 DTR Ranch Syrah (Fiddle- Folded Hills 2019 Cluster Nouveau Syrah continues on the palate, where black pepper, ­violet 95 town). This bold, flavorful and nervy wine 93 (Santa Ynez Valley). This brand is deeply and a brush of iodine also play with the grilled creates a great tension between its core of rasp- exploring the whole-cluster and carbonic treat- boysen­berry flavors. —M.K. berry and rhubarb flavors and generous, intrigu- ments to present fresh, lively and quaffable wines. abv: 13.6% Price: $50 ing accents­ of mineral, singed herb and grilled beef Aromas of black raspberry bubblegum, smoked sage carried on good acidity and moderate tannins. Best and thyme kick off the nose, while a mix of savory Indigené 2017 Parenthesis Syrah (Sta. Rita from 2024. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. and fruity tones consume the palate, from red plum 92 Hills). For full review see page 13. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 and roasted strawberry to peppercorns, herbs and a abv: 14.1% Price: $45 leather-kissed finish.Editors’ Choice. —M.K. Wolff 2018 Syrah (Edna Valley). Perfectly abv: 14.2% Price: $37 McPrice Myers 2018 Right Hand Man Syrah 95 packaged aromas of roasted meats, dark 92 (Central Coast). It’s hard to find better value berry fruits, purple flowers and ample baking spice Harrington 2018 McEvoy Ranch Syrah (Marin than what McPrice Myers is doing with his “Hard satisfy all one needs in a Syrah. It’s plush and gener- 93 County). Crystalline aromas of boysenberry Working Wines.” This bottling offers roasted cof- ous on the palate, where hearty baked berry flavors meet with singed sagebrush, white pepper and fee, toasted wood and blistered black plum on the are lifted by mace and star anise, cut by light sage and crushed rocks on the nose of this bottling by Bryan savory, engaging and comforting nose. The palate is bay leaf and laid atop a soft yet penetrating texture. Harrington, one of his final wines before retiring his also toasty, and focused on grilled blackberry flavors. —M.K. brand. Tart black-plum skin and spicy white pepper Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $28 ride taut tannins on the sip, with a singed beef-loin abv: 15% Price: $20 flavor emerging toward the finish. —M.K. Al Lago 2017 Aria Syrah (California). This abv: 13.4% Price: $35 Zaca Mesa 2016 Mesa Reserve Estate Vine- 94 is an impressive bottling primarily from 92 yard Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). For full grapes, including 4% Merlot, grown in the Santa Indigené 2017 Parenthesis Syrah (Chalone). review see page 15. Cellar Selection. Rosa Valley near the Ventura County city of 93 For full review see page 10. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $54 ­Camarillo. Dried and bloody beef, black currant and abv: 14.3% Price: $45 cracked black pepper show on the nose, while the Agharta 2017 Syrah (Central Coast). Focused palate offers an intriguing array of charred bacon Lucia 2018 Garys’ Vineyard Syrah (Santa 91 aromas of boysenberry, light violet and lav- fat, violet, cassis and more pepper. Editors’ Choice. 93 Lucia­ Highlands). For full review see page ender show on the nose of this bottling. The palate —M.K. 10. Cellar Selection. snaps with boysenberry, black-plum and tart elder- abv: 15% Price: $65 abv: 14.2% Price: $60 berry flavors, with a hint of those purple flowers, set atop very strong acidity. —M.K. Cattleya 2018 The Initiation Syrah (Santa Scott Harvey 2018 J & S Reserve Syrah abv: 14.2% Price: $33 94 Lucia Highlands). Few Central Coast wines 93 (Amador County). Wonderful oak complex- age more intriguingly than Santa Lucia Highlands ity gives this full-bodied wine a bounty of clove, Kaena 2017 Tierra Alta Vineyard Syrah Syrah. This wine is black as night in the glass, and cedar and chocolate aromas, leading to a focused 91 (Ballard­ Canyon). Stewed black-plum and offers aromas of asphalt, black pepper, caramel, core of blackberry and black licorice. It offers major prune aromas show on the very rich and ripe nose fudge and black currant. The palate is dense and fine-grained tannins and a mouthfilling texture. of this bottling. The palate is more balanced and wrapped in polished tannins, carrying flavors of Best through 2028. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. judicious, combining the plum and fig flavors with black plum, cassis, coffee and light vanilla. Drink abv: 14.9% Price: $39 pepper, baking spice and coffee cream. —M.K. now through 2038. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $55 abv: 14.1% Price: $70 Shokrian Vineyard 2018 Opulent Goat Syrah 93 (Santa Barbara County). For full review see Martin Ranch 2017 Therese Vineyards Dos page 11. 91 Ninos Vineyard Syrah (Santa Clara Valley). abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Iodine, boysenberry, smoked beef, violet and soy

122 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 show on the dynamic nose of this single-vineyard accented and full-bodied wine. It’s broad in mouth- as well as hints of white pepper and beef. Editors’ expression. The palate is more dense and ripe, offer- feel and leaves a lingering spicy finish. —J.G. Choice. —M.K. ing black currant, baked berry pie, hint of lilac and abv: 14.9% Price: $28 abv: 12.5% Price: $40 cedar and firm tannins. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $32 Terre Rouge 2017 Les Côtes De L’Ouest Syrah Holly’s Hill 2019 Poco Loco Estate Mourvèdre 88 (California). A reduced, earthy aroma at 93 (El Dorado). Smooth as silk and overflow- Zaca Mesa 2016 Black Bear Block Syrah (­Santa first sniff blows off in a few minutes and leads to ing with perfectly ripe fruit flavors, this full-bodied 91 Ynez Valley). Dense, thick and somewhat tasty plum, woodsmoke and chocolate flavors in this but elegant wine is hard to resist. Light tannins and smoky aromas of dark-purple fruits make for a hefty sturdy, full-bodied wine. —J.G. fruit acidity balance the gorgeous red- and black- nose on this bottling from the oldest block of ­Syrah in abv: 14.5% Price: $25 cherry flavors and linger through the finish.Editors’ ­ Santa Barbara County, planted in 1978. Firm tannins Choice. —J.G. and strong acidity frame the palate, where those dark Castelli Family Vineyards 2015 Syrah abv: 14.7% Price: $25 fruits meet with savory cured meat flavors. —M.K. 86 (Ramona­ Valley). Smoked beef-bone, abv: 14.2% Price: $75 extracted lavender and candied grape-sorbet aro- Kaena 2017 Estelle Vineyard Mourvèdre (Los mas arise on the nose of this bottling. There are 93 Olivos District). Rich aromas of black-plum Michael David 2018 Sixth Sense Syrah roasted fennel, smoked berry and baked fruit flavors pudding, purple flower and warm cola-flavored 90 (Lodi). For full review see page 21. on the palate. —M.K. cream show on the nose of this single-vineyard bot- abv: 15% Price: $18 abv: 13.86% Price: $40 tling. The palate combines a floral extract flavor with cardamom, nutmeg and black-plum paste, set atop a Qupé 2018 Syrah (Central Coast). For full creamy texture and finishing with a slight nut tone. 90 review see page 21. Editors’ Choice. MOURVÈDRE —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Stolpman 2018 Mourvèdre (Ballard Canyon). Vina Moda 2018 Syrah (Sierra Foothills). 95 There’s a pure focus to this bottling that Stolpman 2019 Pliocene Mourvèdre (Ballard 89 Ripe, jammy but not quite sweet, this full- will benefit cellaring. Aromas of roasted black plum, 93 Canyon). From a densely planted block of bodied wine overflows with blackberry and huckle- black pepper and lavender lead into a palate loaded own-rooted, head-pruned, “pre-clonal” vines, this berry-pie flavors that are rich and layered. It’s easy with iron shavings, graphite, charred beef and taut still-young bottling begins with aromas of black to swallow and not very tannic. —J.G. elderberry fruit. It’s tight, and ready for years of fruit, wet stone and crumpled violet. There’s fasci- abv: 15.2% Price: $34 enjoyment. Drink now through 2035. Cellar Selec- nating tension and grip to the palate, with hints of tion. —M.K. white pepper, crushed chalk, rose hips and purple- Allan Hancock 2018 Syrah (Santa Barbara abv: 14% Price: $40 flower flavors. Drink 2022–2032.Cellar Selection. 88 County). Rich aromas of roasted coffee, tof- —M.K. fee, black cherry and black pepper show on the nose Birichino 2019 Enz Vineyard Old Vines abv: 14% Price: $65 of this bottling. It plays to two sides of the palate, 94 Mourvèdre (Lime Kiln Valley). This old-vine offering rich fruit as well as tart black-plum skin bottling packs freshness together with constant Mount Saint Joseph Wines 2017 Mourvèdre elements, dusted in a savory white-pepper spice. intrigue, calling for repeated tastes over the course 89 (Sierra Foothills). Black-cherry and sour- —M.K. of multiple days. It begins with aromas of freshly cherry flavors give this full-bodied and moderately abv: 13.5% Price: $18 plucked plum, just-ripe cherries, light herbs, rose tannic wine a good, concentrated core while lively petals and a streak of stone. The palate follows suit acidity keeps it vibrant through the finish. —J.G. Europa Village 2017 C’est la Vie Wine Chateau with tense, grippy tannins, a fresh and light body abv: 13.5% Price: $37 88 Syrah (Temecula Valley). Muddled plums, and refreshing flavors of plum and crushed stone. blackberry, wet stone and a hint of teriyaki show on Editors’ Choice. —M.K. Vina Moda 2017 Mourvèdre (Sierra Foothills). the nose of this bottling. Firm tannins uphold fla- abv: 12.5% Price: $40 87 This full-bodied wine is soaked with meaty, vors of purple flower and black plum, leading into a peppery, oaky notes from the first whiff through the savory midpalate of soy and Worcestershire sauces McKahn 2018 Mourvèdre (Livermore Valley). finish. Even the color has a smoky edge. Moderate and finishing with a vanilla kick. —M.K. 94 For full review see page 7. tannins keep it grippy on the palate. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $40 abv: 14.9% Price: $42 abv: 14.9% Price: $34

Kaena 2016 Alamo Creek Ranch Syrah (San Terre Rouge 2017 Mourvèdre (Sierra Foot- Martin Ranch 2017 Therese Vineyards Vic- 88 Luis Obispo County). Very ripe and rich aro- 94 hills). Aromas and flavors like sauteed 86 toria Denise Vineyard Mourvèdre (Santa mas of blackberry syrup and grape seed show on the mushrooms with beef jus give this full-bodied wine Clara Valley). Very extracted aromas of prunes, fig lush nose of this bottling from a unique vineyard a different, distinctive personality and reveal the and raisin show on the nose of this bottling. Those north of the Santa Maria Valley. Gooey flavors of earthy, gamy aspects of Mourvèdre. It’s a hearty, prune-like elements carry to the sip, where leather, black-plum pudding and black-currant paste lead ­savory wine that charts its own path away from black-pepper and smoked meat flavors arise. —M.K. into a caramel-soaked finish. —M.K. commercial styles. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $34 abv: 15.5% Price: $60 abv: 13.5% Price: $35

Midnight 2017 Nocturne Syrah (Paso ­Robles). Birichino 2019 Mr. Natural No. 3 Enz Vine- PETITE SIRAH 88 Blistered black plum and boysenberry meet 93 yard Old Vine Mourvèdre (Lime Kiln Valley). with a slight wet wool aroma on the nose of this bot- Featuring a label collaboration with illustrations Portalupi 2018 L Venturi Vineyards Petite tling. The palate offers slightly sour black fruits and by cartoonist Robert Crumb, this is a 94 Sirah (Mendocino County). This full-bodied tart berries with a strong acidic backbone. —M.K. done well, starting with lively and peppery aromas wine is serious, powerful and age-worthy. The warm abv: 15.5% Price: $49 of black raspberry, wet rocks and purple-flower layer of fine-grained tannins that cloaks the entic- blossoms. There’s a brilliant sizzle of acidity on the ing woodsmoke, game and blackberry flavors now Scott Harvey 2018 Mountain Selection Syrah palate, carrying crisp raspberry and pluot flavors will melt with time and bring out even more com- 88 (Amador County). Menthol and dill aromas plexity. Best from 2025. —J.G. lead to rich black-fruit flavors in this spicy, oak-­ abv: 15% Price: $42

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Cardella 2017 Francesco’s Vineyard Petite Chacewater 2015 Petite Sirah (Lake ­County). Portalupi 2018 Pauli Ranch Barbera (Mendo­ 93 Sirah (California). Outstanding complexity 90 For full review see page 19. 89 cino County). A savory, earthy expression of and nuance grace this full-bodied, deep and dark abv: 14.2% Price: $28 bay leaves and grape stems gives this medium- to wine. Intriguing aromas of turned earth, tobacco full-bodied wine an interesting twist while plummy and blackberries lead to layered blueberry and Wilson Creek 2017 Reserve Petite Sirah flavors, good acidity and light tannins balance it out ­cedar flavors and a velvety layer of fine-grained tan- 90 (Temecula Valley). A bit lighter in color well. —J.G. nins wraps the palate. Best through at least 2030. than other Petite Sirahs, this wine invites the nose abv: 14.4% Price: $45 Editors’ Choice. —J.G. with aromas of boysenberry, cracked pepper and abv: 13.44% Price: $20 wood spice. There’s a savory streak to the palate, Vina Moda 2018 Barbera (Sierra Foothills). where roasted meat flavors converge with iodine, 86 Beefy, meaty, toasted-oak and black-pepper Dovecote 2018 Thompson Vineyard Petite­ baked boysenberry and pencil shavings. —M.K. flavors dominate this heavily spiced and full-bodied 93 Sirah (Alisos Canyon). For full review see abv: 15.3% Price: $75 wine. —J.G. page 10. Editors’­ Choice. abv: 15.2% Price: $34 abv: 14.8% Price: $55 Hungry Hawk 2017 Estate Petite Sirah (San 89 Diego County). Dried beef, crumpled vio- Mettler Family Vineyards 2018 Estate Grown lets, lavender and leather all show on the nose of SANGIOVESE 93 Petite Sirah (Lodi). For full review see page this bottling, which is a tad lighter than similar 10. Cellar Selection. wines. It’s relatively delicate on the palate, where Saint K 2019 Like the Snows of Yesteryear abv: 14.5% Price: $25 roasted fennel, grilled bacon, red currant jam and 92 White Hawk Vineyard Sangiovese (Santa coffee flavors show. —M.K. Barbara County). Sporting a gun on the label, this Vina Robles 2018 Estate Petite Sirah (Paso abv: 13.5% Price: $55 is a powerful Sangiovese, starting with ripe aromas 93 Robles). For full review see page 12. of black currant, blackberry, lavender and toast on abv: 14.5% Price: $29 Peirano 2018 The Heritage Collection the nose. It’s thick on the palate, where baked and 86 ­Petite Sirah (Lodi). Relatively light and fresh dark-berry flavors meet with dark cocoa and Castelli Family Vineyards 2015 Estate Petite superfruity, this medium-bodied wine shows an violet. —M.K. 92 Sirah (Ramona Valley). For full review see approachable, quaffable side to the varietal. Sweet abv: 14.5% Price: $50 page 12. Editors’ Choice. plums, raspberries and a touch of cherry syrup abv: 14.1% Price: $45 stand out. —J.G. Al Lago 2017 Adagio Sangiovese (California). abv: 14.2% Price: $15 91 Rich and extracted aromas of black cherry, Martin Ranch 2016 Therese Vineyards caramel and creamy fudge show on the nose of 92 ­Victoria Denise Vineyard Petite Sirah (Santa this bottling from the hills above Camarillo, which Clara Valley). Lavender, iodine, tar and dark-berry BARBERA includes 5% Syrah. The palate is viscous, showing aromas kick off the nose on this single-vineyard strong flavors of loamy soil, black-plum pudding expression from south of San Jose. The floral tones Portalupi 2018 Shake Ridge Ranch Barbera and fig, wrapped in creamy tannins and toasty wood of lavender and violet come quickly on the palate, 94 (Amador County). For full review see page touches. —M.K. followed by seared pine needle, dark boysenberry 8. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.95% Price: $65 and cracked pepper flavors, with sticky tannins that abv: 15% Price: $90 rise into the finish. —M.K. Chuparosa 2015 Sangiovese (Ramona Val- abv: 14.8% Price: $35 Robert Biale 2018 Gaudi Carli Vineyard Bar- 90 ley). Italian varieties seem to excel in cer- 94 bera (Calistoga). For full review see page 8. tain corners of Southern California. This bottling Wolff 2018 Petite Sirah (Edna Valley). abv: 14.5% Price: $50 shows candied black plum and berry, with hints of 92 Grown on a 125-acre vineyard that’s just rock, loam and sandalwood on the nose. Very dry four miles from the coast, this may be the coolest E16 2018 Baby Rattlesnake Vineyard Bar- tannins frame the sip, where oak and blackberry vie spot for Petite Sirah on the planet. Aromas of baked 92 bera (El Dorado). Incredible, effusive and for attention. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. boysenberry, lilacs and cola spice lead into a cherry- concentrated fruit aromas leap from the glass in abv: 15.1% Price: $28 cola kick on the palate, with touches of pie crust this full-bodied, generous and focused wine grown and vanilla. —M.K. at 2,300 feet. It pours out black cherry, tart cherry Midnight 2017 Starlight Sangiovese (Paso abv: 14.2% Price: $35 and blackberry fruit, framing them nicely in moder- 90 Robles). Cranberry, red-plum-skin, dried ate tannins and good acidity. —J.G. red-flower and lively potpourri aromas show on the Barra of Mendocino 2018 Estate Grown Petite­ abv: 14.1% Price: $38 nose of this bottling. Tart strawberry and cranberry 91 Sirah (Mendocino). Gorgeous flavors of black- flavors meet with chai spice on the sip, where bright berry jam, mint and dark chocolate make this full- Europa Village 2017 Vienza Barbera (Califor- acidity carries into the fresh finish. —M.K. bodied and mouthfilling wine delicious to sip. While 91 nia). Rustic aromas of dried herbs, light mint, abv: 15.2% Price: $49 firmly tannic, it offers so much ripe fruitiness that clove and dried berry show on the nose of this bot- the tannins are hardly noticeable. —J.G. tling. Hearty flavors of baked berry, wet rocks and Girasole 2019 Estate Grown Sangiovese abv: 14.5% Price: $22 chocolate arise on the palate alongside the remnant 87 (Mendocino). An aroma like smoked black- clove and herb elements. —M.K. berries leads to rich, plummy, black-fruit flavors Hideaway 2018 Petite Sirah (Santa Barbara abv: 14.7% Price: $37 and hints of milk chocolate in this full-bodied but 91 County). Aromas of blistered plum, violet and non-tannic wine. It’s fresh, mouthfilling and easy to roasted beef in blackberry sauce show on the nose Portalupi 2018 Shake Ridge Ranch Barbera swallow. —J.G. of this muscular bottling. There’s a flash of fresh- 91 (Amador County). Reduced at first, this full- abv: 14.5% Price: $14 ness to the palate, where cassis and purple-flower bodied wine brings on powerful black-cherry and flavors are spiced generously with cracked black sour-cherry flavors backed by firm tannins and Lava Cap 2018 Sangiovese (El Dorado). Hints pepper. —M.K. lively acidity. It’s a palate-cleansing wine that will 87 of mint and cedar help give this full-bodied abv: 15.1% Price: $45 pair well with the richest roasts and risottos. —J.G. wine a mature, oak-aged, reserve-style personality abv: 15% Price: $45 despite its young age. Medium tannins and rather

124 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 strong alcohol lend plenty of appetizing grip to the but well behaved wine. It’s full bodied, nicely bal- wine big and bold. The baking-spice, grilled plum texture. —J.G. anced on a big scale, and shows great depth. —J.G. and blackberry-syrup flavors will make it a great abv: 14.2% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 after-dinner pour. —J.G. abv: 15% Price: $40 Kwaya 2019 Organic Sangiovese (Mendocino).­ Robert Biale 2018 Black Chicken Zinfandel 83 A smoky, rubber-boot aroma leads to flavors 94 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 8. Robert Biale 2018 Falleri Vineyard Zinfandel of graphite, charcoal and sour cherry in this rather Editors’ Choice. 92 (Calistoga). For full review see page 14. raw-tasting and full-bodied wine. No added sulfites. abv: 14.8% Price: $50 abv: 14.4% Price: $58 —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $18 Robert Biale 2018 Valsecchi Vineyard Shannon Ridge 2018 High Elevation Collection­ 94 Zinfandel­ (Carneros). For full review see 92 Zinfandel (Lake County). For full review see page 8. page 15. ZINFANDEL abv: 14.5% Price: $58 abv: 13.9% Price: $23

Brady Vineyard 2018 Zinfandel (Paso R­obles). Robert Biale 2018 Varozza Vineyard The Hideaway 2018 Motel Zinfandel (Santa 96 For full review see page 3. Editors’ Choice. 94 ­Zinfandel (St. Helena). For full review see 92 Barbara County). Pristine aromas of black- abv: 15% Price: $24 page 8. berry paste meet with white pepper and wet stone abv: 14.8% Price: $55 on the fresh nose of this bottling, which is one of the Easton 2017 Rinaldi Vineyard Old Vine few from this county. Clean lines of boy- 95 Zinfandel­ (Fiddletown). Earthy, mineral Andis 2018 Old Vine Original Grandpère Vine- senberry, fennel stalk and more pepper and stone aromas and concentrated, nervy but ripe fruit fla- 93 yard Zinfandel (Sierra Foothills). For full consume the palate. —M.K. vors merge in this full-bodied, firmly textured and review see page 9. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 moderately tannic wine. Elements of dried herbs and abv: 15.5% Price: $45 river rocks accent deep wild-berry and roasted­ plum Bannister 2017 Saini Farms Zinfandel (Dry notes. Best from 2024. Cellar Selection. —J.G. High Valley Vineyard 2018 Zinfandel (High 91 Creek Valley). Spicy nutmeg, cinnamon and abv: 14.5% Price: $35 93 Valley). For full review see page 10. clove lead the way to a lively palate of red fruit and abv: 15.9% Price: $32 considerable power, the wine unabashedly full- Limerick Lane 2018 Marquis Zinfandel (Rus- bodied and fleshy. Still, acidity keeps it graceful and 95 sian River Valley). This is a spectacular Portalupi 2018 Shake Ridge Ranch Primitivo lively, with enduring balance. —V.B. showcase and field blend of several incredible sites, 93 (Amador County). For full review see page abv: 15.1% Price: $36 including Banfield (36%), Limerick Lane (23%), 10. Editors’ Choice. Soldini (18%), Bedrock (14%) and Carlisle (9%), abv: 15.5% Price: $40 Birichino 2018 Saint Georges Old Vines familiar names to followers of exceptional Zin. Pos- 91 Z­infandel (Central Coast). This bottling, sessed of tension, power and surprisingly high-toned Tres Sabores 2017 Perspective Estate mostly from 1922-planted vines, is a uniquely freshness, it is layered in crushed rock, iron and 93 Zinfandel­ (Rutherford). This is a captivat- intellectual spin on Zinfandel, proving unlike most just-picked blackberry. The structure suggests aging; ingly complex, inviting and interesting estate wine other takes on the grape and somewhat simple, ­enjoy best from 2028–2033. Cellar Selection. —V.B. from the western edges of the appellation. It is a yet constantly calling out for attention. Aromas of abv: 15.1% Price: $72 mix of white pepper, wild game, wild strawberry red plum, cranberry and light herbs lead into light and raspberry. With texture and structure, it has a strawberry, dried meat and more herb tones, as well Robert Biale 2018 R.W. Moore Vineyard savory element of crushed rock and dust that lasts as a hint of blood. These elements all grow more 95 Zinfandel­ (Coombsville). For full review see on the finish. —V.B. ethereal with time. —M.K. page 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 15% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 14.8% Price: $62 Andis 2018 Painted Fields Old Vine Zinfandel Easton 2019 Zinster Lot 1852 Zinfandel Andis 2018 Old Vine Di Stasio Vineyard 92 (Sierra Foothills). For full review see page 91 (Fiddletown).­ Aromas of dried herbs, rose 94 Z­infandel (Sierra Foothills). This complex, 12. Editors’ Choice. petals, salt and pepper meet lively raspberry and well-spiced but also well-balanced wine starts with abv: 15.5% Price: $25 cranberry flavors in this medium- to full-bodied subtle oak nuances of cinnamon, toast and nutmeg, wine. Made by fermenting whole clusters, it has an then reveals a core of rich, ripe black fruits and a Easton 2018 Zinfandel (Amador County). appetizing nip of tannin to firm up the texture. —J.G. mouthfilling texture buoyed by a touch of grippy 92 Pure, polished and deep, this excellent wine abv: 14.5% Price: $25 tannin. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. starts with a wild-sage and chaparral aroma, then abv: 15.5% Price: $40 pours on concentrated raspberry and blackberry Hawley 2018 Alegria Vineyard Old Vine flavors, accented with a hint of cocoa. —J.G. 91 ­Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). A field Easton 2017 D’Agostini Bros. Old Vine abv: 14.5% Price: $25 blend with small amounts of Petite Sirah and Ali- 94 ­Zinfandel (Shenandoah Valley). Tempting cante Bouschet, this hearty red is thick in interwo- mint and cinnamon aromas lead to rich, ripe black- Four Vines 2018 The Biker Zinfandel (Paso ven tannin and brawny oak, with a plush mouthfeel berry and raspberry flavors that are wrapped in firm 92 Robles). For full review see page 13. throughout. Dark, brooding notes of plum, black- tannins. This absolutely flavor-packed wine from a abv: 15% Price: $18 berry and leather lead to a nutmeg-laden finish. truly outstanding Zin maker will reward cellaring. —V.B. Best from 2025. Cellar Selection. —J.G. Peachy Canyon 2018 Mustard Creek Zinfan- abv: 14.8% Price: $40 abv: 15.1% Price: $35 92 del (Adelaida District). For full review see page 14. Mettler Family Vineyards 2018 Epicenter Old Easton 2017 E Zinfandel (Fiddletown). abv: 14.5% Price: $42 91 Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). For full review see page 94 Meaty, black-pepper aromas and broad, 16. concentrated wild-berry flavors are framed by a firm Portalupi 2018 Shake Ridge Ranch Zinfan- abv: 14.7% Price: $25 structure of tannins and good acidity in this brawny 92 del (Amador County). Opulent fruit flavors and a firm but velvety texture make this full-bodied

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Peachy Canyon 2018 Bailey Zinfandel Barra of Mendocino 2018 Estate Grown pepper and sage. The tannins are supportive and 91 (Adelaida­ District). Juicy aromas of black 89 Zinfandel­ (Mendocino). Fully developed supple. —V.B. plum remain focused and intense on the nose of this dried-cherry flavors give this full-bodied wine made abv: 15.5% Price: $37 bottling. The palate is more complex, carrying fla- from organic grapes plenty of fruit concentration vors of roasted blackberry, black pepper, elderberry while a smooth texture and light tannins add a nice DNA VIneyards 2018 Mud Pie Zinfandel and purple flowers. —M.K. grip to the palate. It’s not quite a fruit bomb, but 87 (Mendocino­ County). This powerful, full- abv: 15% Price: $46 high in ripeness and alcohol. —J.G. bodied wine leads with a maple-syrup aroma and abv: 14.5% Price: $20 then offers fresh raspberry and red-cherry flavors Peachy Canyon 2018 Vortex Zinfandel (Paso accented by vanilla. It’s mouthfilling, has light tan- 91 Robles). For full review see page 17. Hawley 2018 Hawley Vineyard Zinfandel nins and a warm finish. —J.G. abv: 15% Price: $44 89 (Dry Creek Valley). Rich and jammy with a abv: 14.5% Price: $15 handful of Petite Sirah, this wine offers deep layers Peter Franus 2016 Brandlin Vineyard Zinfan- of baked plum, prune, baking spice and vanilla. A OZV 2018 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). This 91 del (Mount Veeder). A field blend also includ- dash of black pepper accents the lengthy, full-bod- 86 smooth, full-bodied and very ripe-tasting ing Mourvèdre, Charbono and Carignan, this wine ied finish. —V.B. wine seems infused with clove and cedar flavors impress in its opening notes of leather and cigar. abv: 14.8% Price: $42 that rob attention from the blackberry notes. —J.G. Thick and concentrated, with generous oak and abv: 14% Price: $12 tannin, it shows brooding flavors of blackberry, dark Husch 2018 Estate Bottled Zinfandel chocolate, dust and rock. —V.B. 89 (Mendocino).­ Attractive cedar and cinna- Europa Village 2016 Vienza Primitivo (Tem- abv: 14.8% Price: $40 mon notes from oak aging spice up this full-bodied, 84 ecula Valley). Quite light in the glass, this moderately tannic wine that has a very good core of bottling shows aromas of roasted fennel and straw- Ridge 2018 Benito Dusi Ranch Zinfandel (Paso ripe red-cherry and raspberry flavors. —J.G. berry balsamic sauce. The palate is sharp with tangy 91 Robles). Aroma of crushed blackberry, black abv: 14.5% Price: $25 acetic tones, though offers a rounded red-fruit plum and fig meet with a toasted grape-seed touch touch in the midpalate. —M.K. on the nose of this bottling from a historic ranch. Michael David 2018 Freakshow Zinfandel abv: 14.7% Price: $40 Firm tannins and flashes of acid frame the sip, 89 (Lodi). For full review see page 22. where roasted fig jam, smoked pork and light prune abv: 15.5% Price: $20 flavors arise. —M.K. TEMPRANILLO abv: 14.8% Price: $35 Midnight 2017 Zinfandel (Paso Robles Willow­ 89 Creek District). Rich, dark and ripe fruit Bodega de Edgar 2017 Gran Reserva Tempra- Beran 2017 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). aromas stop just sort of being too prominent on 94 nillo (Paso Robles). This reserve blend of 90 With old-vine aromas of Christmas spice, the nose of this bottling, which also shows some Paper Street and Denner vineyards, which spent leather and mocha, this velvety wine is hearty on ­purple-flower hints. There is a firm tannic core to 34 months in 100% new French oak, begins with the palate in full-bodied concentration and power. the sip, where dark-blackberry and gooey black- intense aromas of roasted black currant, black Flavors of blackberry, cherry and cranberry domi- plum-sauce flavors arise. —M.K. cherry, coffee cream and asphalt. The palate is thick nate across a persistent richness of style. —V.B. abv: 16.3% Price: $44 yet snappy with berry-like acidity, savory flavors of abv: 14.8% Price: $22 singed tobacco and roasted meat, and a cappuccino Girasole 2019 Estate Grown Zinfandel finish. The tannins are ready, but will last for years. Concrete 2016 Tank No 209 Old Vine Zinfan- 88 (Mendocino).­ Superfruity and fresh, this Drink now–2033. Cellar Selection. —M.K. 90 del (Lodi). This full-bodied wine tastes rich is a very friendly, quaffable version of Zin, offering abv: NA Price: $100 and somewhat spicy, combining quite ripe black- grapey, jammy flavors on a full body that doesn’t berry flavors with cedar and black-pepper notes feel too tough, due to light tannins. —J.G. Peirano 2018 The Heritage Collection Tem- that give it a unique and attractive profile. —J.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $14 89 pranillo (Lodi). Savory aromas of tobacco, abv: 15.4% Price: $20 bay leaf and beef stew meet abundant black-cherry Hawley 2018 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). and blackberry flavors in this full-bodied, moder- Dutcher Crossing 2016 Pritchett Peaks 88 With an earthy opening of mushroom and ately tannic wine. It has more than enough tasty 90 Zinfandel­ (Rockpile). For full review see forest, this is a thick, rich and dusty red wine, made fruit flavors to balance out the firm structure. —J.G. page 20. from dry-farmed grapes. Bold and full bodied, it abv: 14.8% Price: $15 abv: 14.7% Price: $51 offers layers of blackberry, black cherry and vanilla. —V.B. Vina Moda 2018 Tempranillo (Sierra Foot- LangeTwins 2017 Estate Grown Old Vine Zin- abv: 15.1% Price: $40 88 hills). Bold, flavorful and firmly tannic, this 90 fandel (Lodi). Rich plum and focused black- full-bodied wine wraps dramatic toasted oak and cherry flavors give this well-balanced wine a tasty Peirano 2016 The Immortal Zin Zinfandel grilled plum flavors in plenty of grippy tannins and center that’s wrapped in light tannins and a touch 88 (Lodi). Lush, plummy fruit flavors mingle has the concentration needed to keep it balanced. of good acidity. It’s appetizing and well-primed for with more savory, meaty notes in this richly tex- Best through 2025. —J.G. food pairings. Best Buy. —J.G. tured, full-bodied and soft-textured wine. —J.G. abv: 15.1% Price: $44 abv: 15% Price: $15 abv: 14.8% Price: $16

Pellegrini 2018 AV Old Vines Zinfandel Seven Deadly Zins 2017 Old Vine Z­infandel RED BLENDS 90 (Alexander­ Valley). Aged in French oak bar- 88 (Lodi). For full review see page 22. rels, this 100% varietal wine opens in a lightness of abv: 15% Price: $16 Arietta 2018 H Block Hudson Vineyards baking spice, cranberry and dark cherry. Thick tan- 95 (Napa­ Valley). For full review see page 4. nin and a touch of toasted oak make it robust­ on the Trione 2016 Flatridge Ranch Zinfandel Cellar Selection. palate, the underlying acidity subtle and solid, with 88 (Sonoma­ Coast). Thick in tannin and rich abv: 14.9% Price: $150 length and breadth. —V.B. in mocha and marshmallow flavor, this is a ripe, abv: 14.3% Price: $35 robust wine seasoned in savory elements of black Arietta 2018 Quartet (Napa Valley). This 95 blends 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24%

126 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and Harrington 2018 Tempesta (California). into a cohesive whole of complex structure and 3% Petit Verdot. With savory, herbal components 93 B­ryan Harrington championed obscure grace. ­Cedar, pencil shavings, iron and crushed that contrast beautifully against the juicy plum and grapes in this now-retired brand, including the rock provide a savory foundation complemented by dark currant, the wine finishes in toasted oak. Enjoy 64% Corvina, a Venetian grape, that he blended lush richness in the form of dense blueberry, dark best from 2027–2035. Cellar Selection. —V.B. with 36% Pinot Noir in this bottling. Light in the chocolate and nutmeg. Enjoy best from 2028–2035. abv: 14.9% Price: $75 glass, the wine begins with raspberry-paste, rive- Cellar­ Selection. —V.B. stone and damp soil aromas. Lively flavors of cran- abv: 14.9% Price: $75 Daou 2018 Eye of the Falcon Reserve (Paso berry, red currant and candied rose petals show on 94 Robles). For full review see page 6. the fascinating sip, which also offers a tense and Arietta 2018 Variation One (Napa Valley). abv: 14% Price: $75 stony structure. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. 95 Blending 58% Syrah with 42% Merlot both abv: 13.2% Price: $30 grown on Hudson Vineyard, this is an intriguing, Niner 2016 Fog Catcher Estate Grown (Paso impressively structured and powerful wine with 94 Robles). For full review see page 8. Imagery 2017 Gee eS eM (North Coast). enduring grace. It opens in garrigue, iron and oak, abv: 14.6% Price: $100 93 Spicy, complex and mouthfilling, this allur- with refined, supple and supportive tannins. Black ing, oak-influenced wine blends luscious black-fruit pepper and espresso come to a peak on the long fin- Terre Rouge 2017 L’Autre (Sierra Foothills). flavors with baking spices, new leather and tobacco ish, meshing perfectly with the underlying acidity. 94 This full-bodied, aromatic and complex nuances for a fascinating and delicious profile. A vel- —V.B. wine opens a spice box full of cedar, clove, tobacco vety texture of fine-grained tannins nicely wraps up abv: 14.9% Price: $100 and tamarind aromas that lead to meaty, mush- all the chocolate, blackberry and sweet plum flavors. roomy flavors backed by moderate tannins for good —J.G. Ramey 2016 Template (Napa Valley). Ramey balance. It’s hard to find this kind of earthy, spicy, abv: 14.9% Price: $45 95 blends 70% Merlot from Mount Veeder savory and nuanced wine in California. Editors’ with 23% Oakville Cabernet Franc and 7% Cab- Choice. —J.G. Kaena 2017 Cuvée Lucille Charlies Vineyard­ ernet Sauvignon from St. Helena for this winning, abv: 14.5% Price: $35 93 (Ballard Canyon). This blend of 65% complex wine that substantially overdelivers on its ­Grenache and 35% Syrah is powerful and rich, price. Herbaceous and earthy in peppercorn, cedar Vina Robles 2018 The Arborist Estate Red loaded with baked boysenberry, licorice and French and clove, it offers remarkable structure and grace 94 Blend (Paso ­Robles). For full review see page toast spices on the nose. The palate is viscous with around sublime red fruit and cocoa powder. It will 9. Editors’ Choice. flavors of roasted red plum and chai spices, particu- age well. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 larly clove and cardamom. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $85 abv: 15.1% Price: $65 Al Lago 2017 Sonata (California). Roasted Ridge 2017 Monte Bello (Santa Cruz Moun- 93 red-plum and strawberry aromas converge Limerick Lane 2018 Estate Cuvée (Russian 95 tains). This iconic bottling, which hails with cured meat, pepper and seared tomato on 93 River Valley). Combining 63% Zinfandel, from mountaintop vines that produce less than 1.5 the nose of this blend of 43% Syrah, 33% Caber- 27% Syrah and 10% Petite Sirah from the pro- tons per acre, begins with aromas of roasted plum, net Sauvignon, 17% Sangiovese and 7% Cabernet ducer’s estate, this blend invites one in with aromas clove and nutmeg. The blend of 73% Cabernet Sau- Franc. There’s compelling tension to the palate, and flavors of fresh blackberry, nutmeg and vanilla vignon, 15% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot and 4% Cab- where black- and white-pepper flavors decorate the bean. Soft and supple on the palate, it has full-bod- ernet Franc is framed by elegantly tense tannins, as dark-plum and charred meat tones. —M.K. ied intensity with complex accents of black pepper, baked plum, mace and cardamom flavors consume abv: 14.4% Price: $65 leather and coffee. —V.B. the midpalate, while the finish stays quite fresh. abv: 14.8% Price: $85 This epitomizes the definition of Cellar Selection. Anonimo 2016 Red (Paso Robles). This Drink 2021–2042. Cellar Selection. —M.K. 93 inventive blend of 74% Sangiovese, 16% McPrice Myers 2018 Beautiful Earth (Paso abv: 13.7% Price: $230 Mourvèdre and 10% Petite Sirah beautifully cap- 93 Robles). This blend of 64% Syrah, 12% tures dark-strawberry, scarlet-red rose-petal, Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Grenache, 6% Mour­ Anonimo 2017 Red (Paso Robles). This sumac, cinnamon and milk-chocolate aromas on vèdre, 4% Petite Sirah and 2% Clairette Blanche 94 unique blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10% the nose. There is a texture of chiseled stone on the is still young and tight on the nose, but it allows Mourvèdre and 10% Petit Verdot by Hearst Ranch’s palate, where dark berry, pepper spice and a hint of aromas of black currant, cola and seared wood to winemaker Soren Christensen works extremely leather interact with ample acidity. —M.K. emerge. The palate combines black raspberry and well. Aromas of black raspberry, clove, nutmeg and abv: 14.1% Price: $40 lavender onto a taut frame of tannins that release crushed rock leads into a palate that’s both tense in their grip with time. —M.K. structure and yet generous in flavors. Strawberry, Dusty Nabor 2017 NSO (California). Zesty abv: 15.2% Price: $40 sumac, white peppers and rosewater all make a 93 black raspberry, damson plum, cracked pep- showing. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. per, fig paste and a gamy tang show on the nose of Midnight 2017 Zenith (Paso Robles). This abv: NA Price: $40 this Grenache and Syrah blend, which is quite com- 93 is a booming blend of 50% Merlot, 25% plex for the price point. Sagebrush and fennel-bulb Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Malbec and 12% Petit Arietta 2017 H Block Hudson Vineyards flavors meet with roasted red plum and mulberry on Verdot that starts with candied cassis and violet 94 ­Cabernet Franc-Merlot (Napa Valley). A the intriguing palate. Best Buy. —M.K. on the intense and powerful nose. The tannins are 50-50 marriage of Cabernet Franc and Merlot from abv: 15% Price: $15 well polished on the sip yet with just enough edge the well-farmed site in Carneros, this red opens in to carry the dark-fruit, tobacco and lilac flavors into cedar, graphite and iron, with a dusty texture and Harrington 2018 Hard Luck (California). the finish. —M.K. enviable structure. Black currant, raspberry and 93 Baked raspberry and strawberry aromas abv: 15.4% Price: $75 anise combine around a softness and integration meet with clove, wild plum and a hit of herbs on the that endures. —V.B. nose of this bottling. There’s an herbal array to the Peake Ranch 2018 Bellis Noir (Sta. Rita abv: 14.9% Price: $150 palate, where sagebrush flavors meet with rounded 93 Hills). Wet stone, lavender, black raspberry plum, as firm enough tannins run from front to back. and char show on this blend of Syrah and Grenache Arietta 2017 Quartet (Napa Valley). Dark —M.K. from a property where the Rhône grapes are thriv- 94 and brooding, this blends 68% Cabernet abv: 13.4% Price: $25 ing. The palate is hearty with cassis, tart with black

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BUYINGGUIDE raspberry, floral with purple buds, and finished on a and lavender flavors toward the finish. Drink now Black Ridge 2015 Winemaker’s Blend (Santa savory kick of charred meat. —M.K. through 2030. Cellar Selection. —M.K. 91 Cruz Mountains). There’s a structure that abv: 14.8% Price: $40 abv: 14.2% Price: $60 often comes with Santa Cruz Mountain wines that just won’t quit. This bottling begins with aromas of Pegasus Estate 2017 Quadrille (Santa Ynez Dovecote 2016 Redtail Thompson Vineyard oregano, pepper, mahogany, iron and dried cherry 93 Valley). Fresh black raspberry makes for 92 (Santa Barbara County). For full review see on the nose, followed by smoked oak, cured meat a lively aromatic entry to the nose of this blend of page 13. and dark cranberry on the palate. But it’s the tan- 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Petit Verdot, 25% abv: 13% Price: $55 nic core that ensures a long, savory life. Drink now Cabernet Franc and 6% Merlot, while crushed lava through 2035. Cellar Selection. —M.K. rocks add a mineral-like tension. A similar scheme Hook or Crook 2018 Field Blend Reserve abv: 14.3% Price: $40 plays out on the sip, where snappy boysenberry fla- 92 (Lodi). For full review see page 13. vors meet with a rocky minerality, packaged in a tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Chiron Wines 2017 Virtue and Vice (Napa nic frame that should last a while. Drink 2021–2037. 91 Valley).­ This blends 62% Cabernet Sauvi- Cellar Selection. —M.K. Kaena 2016 Hapa (Santa Ynez Valley). This gnon, 34% Merlot, 3% Petite Sirah and 1% Petit abv: 14.6% Price: $50 92 is a very rich kitchen-sink blend of 24% Verdot. Plummy, it is juicy and robust on the pal- Syrah, 22% Grenache, 22% Merlot, 11% Mour­ ate, with supple, integrated tannin and oak. Baking Porterhouse Winery 2016 Porterhouse vèdre, 11% Tempranillo, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon spice and black pepper play on the lengthy finish. 93 Reserve (Santa Ynez Valley). Deep and dark and 4% Petit Verdot, starting with aromas of —V.B. aromas of black-currant pie, clove, vanilla and blackberry jam, black-plum juice, caramel and cola. abv: 14.8% Price: $60 roasted meats emerge from on the nose of this wine, There’s a blast of acid at the tip of the sip and a firm which is almost opaque in the glass. The roasted tannic structure, which envelops the cola, fudge, Claiborne & Churchill 2018 Red (San Luis meat component comes on strong through the pal- caramel and dark-fig flavors. —M.K. 91 Obispo­ County). This blend of 65% Syrah ate, where seared beef and blistered blackberry and abv: 14.9% Price: $45 and 35% Grenache offers aromas of concentrated blueberry flavors ride a generous acidity. —M.K. black plum, boysenberry-pie crust and a hint of star abv: 14.4% Price: $60 Niner 2017 Heart Hill Vineyard Twisted Spur anise on the nose. The palate pops with plum and 92 (Paso Robles Willow Creek District). For full light berry flavors, picking up floral tones of violet San Lorenzo Winery 2018 Rock Garden Hill- review see page 14. Cellar Selection­ . and lilac, as well as a Concord grape touch. —M.K. 93 side (Alexander Valley). Seamless tannin, abv: 14.9% Price: $75 abv: 14.6% Price: $46 earth, cedar and pencil shavings accent this bold blend of 90% Zinfandel with 5% Petite Sirah and Sandar & Hem 2018 Red (Santa Cruz Moun- DNA Vineyards 2017 Coro (Mendocino County). 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Clove and vanilla flavors 92 tains). This blend of 60% Merlot, 30% 91 This full-bodied and firmly tannic wine holds build on the midpalate. The body weight is substan- Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon its ample black-cherry and blackberry flavors pretty tial and brightened in blackberry, currant and cassis. explores the elegant edge of Bordelaise style, start- tightly so it will pair nicely with braises and roasts —V.B. ing with aromas of blackberry jam, dark plum and or a mushroom risotto. Best from 2024. —J.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $48 dark strawberry. The palate is framed by sharp acid- abv: 14.1% Price: $40 ity that cuts into the darker purple fruits and main- San Lorenzo Winery 2018 The Pearl (Alexan- tains a medium body throughout. —M.K. Dovecote 2017 Redtail Thompson Vineyard 93 der Valley). This is a field blend from a vine- abv: 13.5% Price: $44 91 (Alisos Canyon). Focused aromas of black yard bought by proprietor Pete Seghesio’s grand- currant, violet extract and charred beef make for a father in 1896, the site itself dating back to 1892. Shannon Ridge 2018 Buck Shack Small very floral nose on this blend of 31% Grenache, 23% Leading with 55% Zinfandel, there’s Petite­ Sirah, 92 Batch Red Wine (Lake ­County). For full Syrah, 23% Mourvèdre and 23% Petite Sirah.­ There Alicante Bouschet, Carignane and other mixed reds. review see page 15. is black-plum and berry-paste intensity to the sip, Together, they make for a bright, thick and earthy abv: 15% Price: $35 which is delicate in texture and full of purple-flower expression of dense red fruit, cedar and cigar box, and licorice flavors. —M.K. coming together into a full-bodied, impressive Sunstone 2018 Founder’s Reserve (Santa abv: 14.1% Price: $55 whole. —V.B. 92 Ynez Valley). Aromas of dark-red berries, abv: 15.4% Price: $70 warm fruitcake and a touch of toasted grape seed Kaena 2016 Buona Terra Stag Canyon Vine- kick off the nose of this blend of 80% Merlot and 91 yard (Los Olivos District). Strong aromas of Bargetto 2016 La Vita (Santa Cruz Moun- 20% Cabernet Franc. There is a pleasant freshness smashed blackberry sauce and black-plum skins 92 tains). Ripe aromas of damson plum, to the palate, where boysenberry and blueberry show on the nose of this blend of 66% Cabernet ­mahogany and licorice kick off the nose of this flavors meet with roasted wood, cured meat and a Sauvignon and 34% Petit Verdot from a vineyard unique blend of 47% Refosco, 29% Dolcetto and rocky minerality. —M.K. on the eastern edge of this district. Smooth and soft 24% Nebbiolo. The palate is tightly woven with abv: 14.6% Price: $65 tannins are expertly managed on the palate, allow- tannins that rise into the finish, carrying flavors of ing the dark-fruit flavors to pair with the nutmeg boysenberry juice, fennel pollen and wood spice. Toccata 2017 Riseerva (Santa Barbara and mace spice tones. —M.K. Drink now through 2031. Cellar Selection. —M.K. 92 County). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, abv: 14.9% Price: $70 abv: 13% Price: $60 Sangiovese, Merlot, and Petit Verdot offers a roadmap for a successful Super Tuscan style. Aro- Kaena 2016 Kuliouou Cuvée Alamo Creek Black Ridge 2015 San Andreas Red (­Santa mas of roasted black currant and black plum meet 91 Ranch (San Luis Obispo County). Strong 92 Cruz Mountains). There’s an elegant with grilled meats, cola and violet on the dynamic aromas of potpourri, blackberry jam, licorice and ­cohesion to this blend of four traditional Bordeaux nose. It approaches the palate smoothly before more sandal­wood show on the nose of this blend of 65% grapes (minus the Petit Verdot), offering black rigid tannins arise, with dark berry, cardamom and Grenache and 35% Syrah from a hidden vineyard plum, cassis,­ olive, dried meat and nutmeg spice cracked pepper flavors. Drink now through 2032. north of the Santa Maria Valley. The sip is tense in on the nose. The palate kicks off on smooth tannins Cellar Selection. —M.K. structure, which frames the exuberant cassis, fig that slowly rise in firmness, carrying black-plum abv: 14% Price: $39 and baked licorice flavors. —M.K. abv: 15.6% Price: $40

128 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Stolpman 2019 La Cuadrilla (Ballard Canyon). McPrice Myers 2018 High on the Hog (Paso black-currant flavors are wrapped in vanilla tones. 91 This blend of 70% Syrah, 15% Grenache and 90 Robles). Dark baked cherry, cassis, violet —M.K. 15% Sangiovese, which is directed by and ­directly and woody earth aromas show on the nose of this abv: 14% Price: $65 benefits the winery’s full-time vineyard crew, affordably priced red blend. There’s a hearty soil begins with aromas of roasted yet crisp red fruit, component on the front end of the palate, where Vina Moda 2017 Vinas (Sierra Foothills). rose petals and grilled meats, with an underlying oregano and marjoram meet with dark-fruit, soy 90 Flavors like salt and pepper and grilled carbonic tone. The palate is bright and zesty, with and char flavors. —M.K. beef give this full-bodied wine a rich, robust profile. fresh fruits, white-pepper and charred meat flavors. abv: 15.2% Price: $20 Made from mostly Syrah and Petite Sirah, it is con- Editors’ Choice. —M.K. centrated and deep, lightly tannic, with persistent abv: 14.1% Price: $22 Mount Veeder 2017 Reserve (Napa Valley). plum and savory notes on the finish. —J.G. 90 A blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% abv: 15.2% Price: $40 Terre Rouge 2017 Tête-à-Tête (Sierra Foot- Merlot and 6% Malbec, this wine is thick, concen- 91 hills). This big and engaging wine made from trated and powerful in sticky, grippy tannin. Black Winemaker’s Folly 2018 Chapter 1 Vino Tinto Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah is full bodied, ripe, fruit, leather and dried herb combine across a foun- 90 (Sonoma County). Jake Bilbro’s ode to sim- layered and delicious. It gushes with strawberry, dation of toasted oak and baking spice that appeal pler times growing up a winemaker’s son in Sonoma sweet plum and dried cherry flavors supported by in full-bodied intensity. —V.B. County, this red combines 76% Syrah, 19% Zinfan- good acidity and moderate tannins. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $100 del, 4% Grenache and 1% Petite Sirah. Meant to be abv: 14.5% Price: $25 a without fuss, it overdelivers on that Ramey 2017 Claret (North Coast). The pro- premise with bold, approachable flavors of black- Beringer 2017 Quantum (Napa Valley). This 90 ducer pulls from Napa Valley, High Valley, berry, blueberry, wild game and a bit of garrigue. 90 is a hugely concentrated blend of all five Alexander Valley and the Russian River Valley to Soft and easy to enjoy, it’s a great, full-bodied wine. Bordeaux red varieties, leading with 82% Cabernet combine 44% Cabernet Sauvignon with 20% Mer- Editors’ Choice. —V.B. Sauvignon and 7% Merlot. Plum, dark berry and lot, 14% Malbec, 12% Petit Verdot, 8% Syrah and abv: 14.6% Price: $26 earth lead to a midpalate of dried herb, cedar and 2% Cabernet Franc. The result is an outstanding clove, with rich, full-bodied ripeness at its core. value and a food-friendly table wine that is seam- Apriori 2016 Proprietary Red (California). —V.B. less and Old World in style, with ample elements 89 This full-bodied wine is big and bold, abv: 14.8% Price: $60 of structure, black fruit, tobacco, tomato leaf and packed with good black-fruit flavors and supported toasted oak. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. by moderate tannins. It has a mouthfilling texture Chiron Wines 2016 Virtue and Vice (Napa abv: 14.5% Price: $42 and good grip. —J.G. 90 Valley). Blended with 57% Cabernet Sau- abv: 14.5% Price: $36 vignon, 38% Merlot and 5% Petite Sirah, this red is Robert Mondavi 2017 Maestro (Napa Valley). thick in oak and tannin, with an intensity of black- 90 A blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Dashe Cellars 2017 Delta Reds (California). berry and dark-cherry fruit. With accents of leather, Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 89 Rich, fruity and concentrated, this full- gun smoke and toast, it has a juicy finish. —V.B. 2% Malbec. Meaty and iron-filled, it offers power- bodied wine is packed with ripe black-fruit flavors abv: 14.6% Price: $60 fully dense black fruit, tobacco and cedar that dance and wrapped in a big, smooth texture with light tan- along the palate, finishing in toasted oak. —V.B. nins. Carignan and Mourvèdre grapes form the bulk Chloe 2018 No. 249 (North Coast). This ripe abv: 15% Price: $50 of the blend. —J.G. 90 jammy, effusive wine overflows with black- abv: 14.3% Price: $24 berry, black-grape and dark-chocolate flavors on a Sapien 2017 Red (Santa Ynez Valley). velvety texture of fine-grained tannins. —J.G. 90 Crushed boysenberry and violet-paste aro- Pestoni Family 2017 1892 Field Blend (Lake abv: 14.8% Price: $18 mas make for a rich nose on this blend of Sangio- 89 County). This powerful, full-bodied wine vese, Mourvèdre and Grenache. The palate is tighter, based on Zinfandel is packed with wild-berry and Cuda Ridge 2018 Melange d’Amis Reserve offering dried violet, elderflower and jasmine flavors black-pepper flavors on a big structure of firm tan- 90 (Livermore Valley). Well-defined mint and as well as açaí sorbet. The tannins and acidity make nins and ripe alcohol. Earthy, dusty aromas meet cedar aromas lead to vibrant red-cherry and baking- for a long finish. —M.K. dried cherry and berry on the palate. —J.G. spice flavors lifted by balanced tannins and acidity. abv: 13.5% Price: $36 abv: 14.7% Price: $28 This is a well-focused, palate-cleansing wine that will be versatile at the dinner table. —J.G. Sequoia Grove 2016 Cambium (Napa Valley). Retzlaff 2014 Estate Bottled Cabernet abv: 13.8% Price: $55 90 Made from 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% 89 Sauvignon-Merlot (Livermore Valley). This Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, this bold, firmly textured and mature wine is laser-focused Erosion NV The Floor is Lava! (Napa Valley). brawny blend is powerfully dusty, thick and tannic. on vivid cherry flavors from the aroma to the pal- 90 Dark, rich layers of chocolate, tobacco, The structure is impressive and complex, its fruit ate and finish. Red and black cherry and some sour clove and nutmeg highlight a luxurious palate of profile a mix of currant, cassis and plum encased in cherry too are lightly shaded in baking spices and 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Merlot in this prominent oak. —V.B. bolstered by moderate tannins. —J.G. fun, flavorful can. Bold, ripe and supple, it is bright abv: 14.6% Price: $135 abv: 14.1% Price: $42 while also spicy and concentrated. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $59/250 ml Seven Deadly 2017 Red Wine (Lodi). For full Sapien 2017 Estate Reserve (Santa Ynez 90 review see page 21. 89 Valley). This unorthodox blend of Sangio- Harrington 2018 Eros III Cep Sumu Kaw Vine- abv: 15% Price: $16 vese, Mourvèdre and Grenache is intriguing, offer- 90 yard (El Dorado County). Light in the glass, ing deep and dark aromas of black plum, cassis, this blend of 49% Mourvèdre, 26% Syrah and 25% Sunstone 2018 Villa Soleil (Santa Ynez violet and baking spice. The palate is awash in ripe Grenache shows sour strawberry and dank herbs on 90 Valley).­ Strong aromas of berry and cassis fruit, from blistered berries to dark plums, with the nose. Thyme, sagebrush and bay-leaf flavors arise kick off the nose of this blend of 54% Merlot, 24% loads of acidity pumping into the baking-spice- on the palate, where tart black-plum-skin flavors Cabernet Franc and 22% Syrah. It lands with a rich kissed finish. —M.K. dominate. —M.K. heft on the palate, where aged strawberry and gooey abv: 14.5% Price: $52 abv: 13.2% Price: $35

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Topa Mountain Winery 2017 Chief Peak Frey 2019 Biodynamic Field Blend (Mendo­ The Messenger 2018 Chara (Shenandoah 89 (Ventura­ County). Plum paste, strawberry­ 88 cino). Jammy, fresh aromas lead to darker, 88 Valley). Beef and black-pepper aromas give extract, licorice and caramelized berries show on richer black-fruit flavors in this full-bodied and this wine a big personality without totally overdo- the nose of this blend of 60% Syrah and 40% firmly tannic wine. It shows a deep, dark color, tasty ing it. It’s dry, full bodied, moderately tannic and ­Grenache from Ventura County grapes. Fennel-bulb black-cherry and dark-chocolate flavors and has a backs up the oaky, spicy notes with good, subdued and roasted black-plum flavors appear on the pal- lingering finish. —J.G. berry flavors. —J.G. ate, which is medium to lightly bodied in texture. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 abv: 14.2% Price: $25 —M.K. abv: 15.2% Price: $40 Gundlach Bundschu 2018 Mountain Cuvée Z. Alexander Brown 2018 Proprietary Red 88 (Sonoma County). This is an impressive 88 (California). A smoky, beefy aroma and Vigilance 2017 Cimarron (Lake County). This blend, leading with 81% Merlot and 13% Caber- rich, ripe plum and dried herb flavors give this full- 89 concentrated and focused wine empha- net Sauvignon, with smaller amounts of Petit Ver- bodied wine a lot to like and a smooth texture wraps sizes vivid fruit flavors and good acidity for a lively, dot and Syrah. Big, bold and brawny, it broods in it all up. —J.G. mouthcleansing effect. Black-cherry, cranberry and dark fruit, toasted oak and accents of cedar, cigar abv: 14.5% Price: $18 blackberry notes make it engaging, and moderate and dried herb, with ample structure, texture and tannins keep the mouthfeel fresh. —J.G. length. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. Bonterra NV Red Wine (California). Full bod- abv: 14.1% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 87 ied and moderately tannic, this dark-colored wine oozes woodsmoke and blackberry flavors, pre- Vina Moda 2018 Vinas (Sierra Foothills). Lost Poet 2018 Red Blend (California). This senting a very hearty, robust character. Best Buy. 89 There is a nice meaty note in this full-bod- 88 medium-bodied wine offers light herb, —J.G. ied, rich wine blended from Mourvèdre, Syrah and smoked meat and ripe plum flavors accented by abv: 14.5% Price: $23/1.5 L Grenache grapes. It offers delicious berries, plums smoke and baking-spice notes. It’s well balanced and a bit of woodsmoke backed by light tannins. and only lightly tannic. —J.G. Cline 2018 Cashmere Black (California). Big —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $17 87 and smooth, this full-bodied wine made abv: 15% Price: $36 from Petite Sirah and Alicante Bouschet grapes Mount Saint Joseph Wines 2017 Confession offers plenty of jammy fruit and peppery oak flavors, Zaca Mesa 2017 Repose (Santa Ynez Valley). 88 (Sierra Foothills). Solid in quality, and a bit of sweetness and a soft touch in the texture. 89 Broiled berries and a hint of caramel show subtle in flavor, this full-bodied and well-balanced —J.G. on the nose of this blend of Rhône and balances tasty plum and red-cherry notes with abv: 14.5% Price: $15 grapes. It lands with thickness and density on the a lightly gripping texture and good acidity. —J.G. palate, where rich flavors of fig and prune meet with abv: 14% Price: $26 Peirano 2018 Illusion (Lodi). Floral and lico- roasted meat elements. —M.K. 87 rice aromas are backed up by good, rich abv: 14.8% Price: $60 Mount Saint Joseph Wines 2017 Marello grapey, jammy flavors in this smooth and broad- 88 (Sierra­ Foothills). This lively and slightly textured wine. —J.G. Donati Family Vineyard 2016 The Immigrant tangy wine offers fresh red-cherry flavors, soft tan- abv: 14.8% Price: $20 88 (Paicines). Roasted plum, berry, crushed nins and good balance. It’s smooth in texture and rock and strong oak aromas show on the nose of this keeps revealing more fruit flavors through the finish. Retzlaff 2016 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sau- bottling that honors the family’s ancestors. There’s a —J.G. 87 vignon-Merlot (Livermore Valley). Lots of savory streak to the sip, where smoked pork in cran- abv: 14.7% Price: $35 well-ripened dark fruits from plum to blackberry to berry sauce, dried herbs and leather flavors arise. black olive give this wine plenty of flavor to savor, —M.K. OneHope 2018 Vintner Collection (­California). while a smooth and not very tannic texture keeps it abv: 14.1% Price: $35 88 Generous red- and black-cherry flavors give relatively soft on the palate. —J.G. this full-bodied wine plenty to like, while the ­snappy, abv: 14.4% Price: $44 E16 2018 Baby Rattlesnake Vineyard G-S-M lightly tannic texture is appetizing. —J.G. 88 (El Dorado). Wood-char aromas give way to abv: 13.9% Price: $25 Rodney Strong 2016 Knotty Vines (­California). concentrated red- and black-fruit flavors that are 87 Strong cocoa and coffee aromas meet up strongly accented by black-pepper and beef notes Peirano 2018 The Other (Lodi). A light ­herbal with robust black-fruit and sweet-spicy oak flavors in this full-bodied, moderately tannic wine. —J.G. 88 aroma leads to nicely ripe and rich red- and in this full-bodied and moderately tannic wine. It’s abv: 14.2% Price: $38 black-cherry flavors while a full body and moderate not bad at all for the genre. —J.G. tannins give the wine good structure. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Erosion NV Afraid of Clowns (Napa Valley). abv: 14.2% Price: $18 88 Tannic and earthy in cedar and dried herb, Shannon Ridge 2018 Urgency (California). this is a robust, thick and concentrated red, blend- Skyside 2018 Red (North Coast). A tempting 87 Concentrated and full bodied, this deeply ing Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Merlot, Malbec 88 black-fig aroma leads to rich black-fruit fla- colored wine packs in dried plum and raisin flavors and Cabernet Franc. Smooth texture emphasizes its vors and good balance in this dry, lightly tannic and that are tinged with black pepper, milk chocolate rich, velvety soul. —V.B. well-concentrated wine. —J.G. and mint. —J.G. abv: 15% Price: $45/250 ml abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.9% Price: $30

Erosion NV How Big? (Napa Valley). Com- Sunstone 2018 Rapsodie (Santa Barbara Vina Moda 2018 Phoenix (Stanislaus C­ounty). 88 bining 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% 88 County). Roasted blackberry, coffee cream, 87 This robust wine leads with black-pepper Merlot, 6% Petite Sirah, 3% Cabernet Franc and liquid lilac and grape-seed aromas show on the nose and charred oak aromas, then pours ripe blackberry 3% Zinfandel, this is an unabashedly big, soft and of this blend of 70% Grenache, 24% Syrah and 6% flavors on a moderately tannic texture. Blended velvety rich red, thick in toast and blackberry jam. Mourvèdre. Crushed berries and grape-seed tones from mostly Primitivo and Tannat it’s boisterous Roasted marshmallow adds a lasting also show on the sip. —M.K. and tasty. —J.G. note. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 abv: 14.9% Price: $34 abv: 16% Price: $59/250 ml

130 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 75 Wine Co. 2019 The Sum (California). This Harrington 2018 Calleri Vineyard Gamay pepper spice meet with lightly dried herbs on the 86 full-bodied wine seems softened with a 94 (San Benito County). This is a wild spin on acid-driven palate. —M.K. touch of sweetness, and offers lots of graphite, herb, Gamay, full of heady earth tones from first sniff to abv: 13% Price: $44 olive and oak flavors for more of a savory expression finish. Light in the glass, it begins with aromas of than an outright fruity one. —J.G. crushed rainbow peppercorns, smashed olives and Martin Ranch 2017 Therese Vineyards Victo- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 freshly dug mud pit. The palate is loaded with for- 90 ria Denice Vineyard Carignane (Santa Clara est-floor flavors, from the soil to the pine needles, ­Valley). Smashed blackberry jam and lilac meet It’s a Headsnapper NV Radiant (California). with wild-thyme, cherry,­ cherry-pit and tea-leaf with a tart edge on the nose of this bottling of this 86 This nicely blended and smooth-textured flavors all singing as well.Editors’ ­ Choice. —M.K. once prominent grape that is growing in popularity wine goes easy on the tannins and acid, and coats the abv: 13.2% Price: $25 again. The palate is very floral with violet and laven- palate with milk-chocolate and sweet plum flavors. der as well as spicy with black pepper, leading into a Best Buy. —J.G. Harrington 2018 Calleri Vineyard Sagrantino cedar-touched finish. —M.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 94 (San Benito County). For full review see abv: 14.3% Price: $32 page 7. Editors’ Choice. Melodramatic 2018 Red Wine (California). abv: 13.1% Price: $35 Hawk Watch Winery 2017 Solo Barrique Tan- 86 A bit of sweetness rounds the edges of this 89 nat (South Coast). This is a smoky bottling, full-bodied, rich and jammy wine. It is saturated Bodega de Edgar 2018 Gracias Paper Street beginning with aromas of roasted black plum, grilled with blackberry and plum notes and has a smooth 93 Vineyard Graciano (Paso Robles Willow Creek berries and hickory. The palate is loaded with wood texture. Best Buy. —J.G. District). When Graciano was accidentally planted spice and woodsmoke, which are pleasant elements abv: 13% Price: $11 across the Central Coast, vintners were mostly alongside those roasted fruits and lingering tannins. pleased with the result, and this wine shows why. —M.K. It’s a Headsnapper NV Dark (California). This Bolstered by 5% each Mourvèdre, Tempranillo and abv: 15.3% Price: $58 85 full-bodied wine offers heavy tamarind and Grenache, it’s very inky in the glass, offering fresh steak-sauce aromas and beefy, berry-like flavors. It aromas of ­Luxardo cherry and lilac. The palate is Europa Village 2017 Bolero Monastrell (Tem- is quite oaky and obvious in flavor and somewhat full of fresh acidity that cuts through the cassis, 88 ecula Valley). Rusty red-fruit aromas meet tannic in texture. Best Buy. —J.G. violet and açaí flavors.E ditors’­ Choice. —M.K. with bloody earth tones on the nose of this bottling. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: 15.2% Price: $58 The palate shows dried berry, smoke, oak and a vanilla finish. —M.K. Brownstone NV Red (California). Prune, rai- Wolff 2018 Teroldego (Edna Valley). Lush abv: 14.5% Price: $36 84 sin and chocolate flavors saturate this soft 93 and jammy while expertly ripe aromas of and somewhat sweet wine. It’s medium bodied and black ­cherry and boysenberry meet with vanilla and Kaena 2016 Stag Canyon Vineyard Petit smooth in texture. —J.G. baking spice on the nose of this fresh and fun wine. 88 Verdot (Los Olivos District). Very dark in abv: 13% Price: $9 The grape hails from the cooler spots of northeast- the glass, this wine offers dark-plum, fruitcake and ern Italy, which fits the Edna Valley, producing a melted chocolate aromas on a very ripe nose. The Keynote NV Red (California). An oaky sweet- palate of smooth tannins, blackberry-pie flavors mouthfeel is very full and lush, offset by balsamic 84 seeming spiciness dresses up this broad- and spice accents of star anise and mace. Editors’ black-plum flavors, a rich prune streak and baking- textured and full-bodied wine, pouring out cinna- Choice. —M.K. pice elements. —M.K. mon, clove and maraschino-cherry flavors. —J.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $34 abv: 14.5% Price: $80 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Dogwood & Thistle 2018 Testa Vineyard Cari- Rotation Vineyards 2018 Red (Lodi). A 92 gnan (Mendocino). This wine is sleek and SWEET WINES 84 smoky, rubber-tire aroma and black-pepper elegant, combining red- and black-fruit flavors on flavors give this full-bodied wine a dark, charred a smooth texture lifted by subtle acidity and very Covenant 2018 Zahav Late Harvest Chardon- profile. It’s moderately tannic and pretty extreme in light tannins. The raspberry and Bing cherry fla- 92 nay (Sonoma Mountain). Thick and lovely flavor. —J.G. vors are nicely concentrated, lingering through the in flavors of honey, apricot and vanilla, this dessert abv: 13.5% Price: $16 graceful finish. —J.G. wine is balanced and delightful, made from whole- abv: 13.6% Price: $38 cluster pressed grapes and barrel-fermented from late-harvested grapes. It has a lushness on the pal- OTHER RED WINES Midnight 2017 Titan Tannat (Paso Robles). ate that finishes with just a touch of brightness and 92 For full review see page 14. Editors’ Choice. energy. Kosher. —V.B. Harrington 2016 Luna Matta Vineyard Neb- abv: 15.9% Price: $49 abv: 11.7% Price: $28/375 ml 95 biolo (Paso Robles). Nebbiolo lovers should lament that Bryan Harrington is retiring his brand, Europa Village 2017 Vienza Montepulciano Harrington 2017 Angelica Mission (Cali- as he mastered the grape like few others in Califor- 91 (Temecula Valley). Italian grapes seem to 92 fornia). Based on recipes from the days of nia. This bottling is full of spicy plum, raspberry, thrive in this warmer region, as evidenced in this Spanish friars, this dessert bottling is a unique pepper, rose and earthy soils on the nose. The pal- bottling’s aromas of red currant, rose petals, wet shade of ruby brown in the glass, offering aromas ate combines those rocky flavors and structure with stone and sandal­wood. Baked cranberry and rasp- of wood and dried plums. The whole experience is rosewater, light strawberry, tar and nutmeg, ele- berry meet with cigar-box elements and peppery unique, really, including the palate’s mix of fresher ments that will only focus with time. Drink 2023– spice on the palate, which is fresh and light. —M.K. strawberry, bourbon, dank oak, vanilla and cigar fla- 2038. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.4% Price: $36 vors. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 17.5% Price: $36/375 ml Hungry Hawk 2018 Carmenère (San Diego Stasis 2019 Murmur Vineyard Gamay Noir 91 County).­ Roasted red-fruit, rose-petal and Patland 2015 D’Oro Red Dessert Petite Sirah 95 (Santa Maria Valley). For full review see white-pepper aromas make for a cohesive nose on 90 (Napa Valley). Made from Petite Sirah page 5. Editors’ Choice. this bottling of a Bordeaux grape that’s most com- grapes and fortified with Germain-Robin Brandy, abv: 14.1% Price: $42 mon in Chile today. Crisp black raspberry and more this dessert wine is dark and syrupy, viscous in salty dark chocolate, cigar box and Christmas spice. With

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BUYINGGUIDE secondary aromas of sandalwood and fig, it delivers guava, kiwi and pineapple flavors lead to a warm a long life ahead of it. Best from 2022–2026. Cellar great flavor and decadence. —V.B. finish. —S.S. Selection. —S.S. abv: 20% Price: $80/375 ml abv: 14.66% Price: $35 abv: 14% Price: $35

Kaena 2017 Late Harvest Rancho Rio Robles H3 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Horse Heaven DeLille 2019 Chaleur Blanc 25th Vintage 91 Vineyard Viognier (Santa Ynez Valley). A 90 Hills). Appealing aromas of grass, green 92 (Columbia Valley). With 69% Sauvignon slightly dark shade of yellow in the glass, this late- pepper, guava and citrus lead to crisp, tart, lemony Blanc and 31% Sémillon, this wine is still in its harvest wine is full of melon, plumeria and wild- flavors. It’s everything there is to love about this shell at present. It offers aromas of toast, nut oil, flower honey on the nose. It’s viscous and smooth ­variety at a terrific price.Best Buy. —S.S. tropical fruit and lemon zest that need time to get on the palate, where acidity keeps the wine fresh as abv: 12% Price: $15 going. The palate is all about sophistication, show- it grows thicker and sweeter, offering honey, mango- ing a pleasing sense of depth and polish, along with sorbet and creamy orange flavors. —M.K. Airfield Estates 2019 Sauvignon Blanc vibrant acidity. It has all the stuffing to excel in the abv: 11.5% Price: $45 88 (Yakima­ Valley). Guava, pineapple and cit- cellar. Best from 2024–2029, with plenty of life rus aromas lead to light lemon flavors that hang on beyond that. Cellar Selection. —S.S. Dashe Cellars 2017 Lily Hill Vineyard Late Har- the finish. There are good things happening, but the abv: 13.7% Price: $35 91 vest Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). With 11% flavors are light in concentration. —S.S. residual sugar, this late-harvest wine spent eight abv: 12.9% Price: $15 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2019 Riesling (Columbia­ months in oak, soaking in great flavors of baked 91 Valley). The aromas intoxicate, with notes of plum, prune and Christmas ginger cake. With a Waterbrook 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Colum- white peach, lime, jasmine and flower. Off-dry lean- punch of acidity it ­remains vibrant and complex 86 bia Valley). Aromas of dried rose petal and ing sweeter stone fruit and Nestea Lemon Iced Tea within its viscous concentration and supple texture. herb lead to flavors that fall a bit flat, looking for a flavors follow, with a strong sense of acidity thread- —V.B. hook to hang the hat on. Tart acidity lingers on the ing through it. The balance and intensity are exqui- abv: 14.1% Price: $30/375 ml finish. —S.S. site. It’s everything one could want from this variety. abv: 12.34% Price: $13 Best Buy. —S.S. Carol Shelton 2019 Black Magic Late Har- abv: 12% Price: $9 90 vest Zinfandel (Sonoma County). For full review see page 19. CHARDONNAY Lobo Hills 2017 Roth Rock Farm Chenin Blanc abv: 15.5% Price: $20/375 ml 91 (Yakima Valley). The aromas intrigue, with House of Bones 2018 Celilo Vineyard notes of muscat gummy, mineral, toasted grape nuts Europa Village 2004 Bolero Cellars Tesoro 93 Chardonnay­ (Washington). The aromas and whiffs of tropical fruit. It’s rounded in feel, with 90 Del Sol Zinfandel (Temecula Valley). A dark bring notes of muscat, pumpkin puree and lemon an exquisite sense of tension that the acid ratchets shade of brownish red in the glass, this 16-year-old curd, not fully in harmony initially but melding up through the finish. —S.S. dessert Zinfandel smells of prune, raisin, caramel together over time. It’s medium weight and flavor- abv: 12% Price: $22 and cigar wrapper, with enough alcohol to burn the ful, with the vibrant acidity and mineral notes that nose a bit. The palate is quite balanced in texture this vineyard brings. Don’t touch it now. Best after Chateau Ste. Michelle 2019 Cold Creek Vine- and acidity, as lingering tannins uphold the baked 2024. Cellar Selection. —S.S. 90 yard Riesling (Columbia Valley). The aromas prune, cola spice, leather and smoky cigar flavors abv: 13.9% Price: $45 are charming, with notes of lime leaf, white peach rather impressively. —M.K. and wet rock. Just off-dry lemon iced tea flavors fol- abv: 19.5% Price: $50/500 ml Ashan 2019 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay low. It’s a lovely expression of the variety. Editors’ 91 (Columbia Valley). The aromas are pleasing, Choice. —S.S. with notes of ripe, cut pineapple, fig and almond. abv: 12.5% Price: $16 WASHINGTON Rich pineapple and other tropical-fruit flavors fol- low, bringing density and balance. It shows the Structure 2019 Oculus Viognier (C­olumbia SAUVIGNON BLANC v­ariety’s riper, fuller side. —S.S. 90 Valley). Expressive aromas of apricot, abv: 14.2% Price: $NA f­lower and jasmine are followed by full-bodied, Cymbal 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia plentiful stone-fruit flavors. It’s weighty, but with 91 Valley).­ Pear, citrus, kiwi and pineapple aro- Luke 2019 Chardonnay (Ancient Lakes). All of ample acidity to keep it tied together. —S.S. mas are followed by full, fleshy tropical-fruit flavors, 91 the fruit for this wine comes from Evergreen abv: 14.1% Price: $25 with plenty of acidity backing them up. There’s hang Vineyard. Aged in third-fill barrels and neutral oak time on the finish. It’s an enchanting look at the with 50% , the aromas of Lone Birch 2019 Estate Grown Pinot Gris variety’s fuller bodied side and will have a long life apple, pumpkin and talc are plentiful. The palate is 89 (Yakima Valley). Bright aromas of pear and ahead of it. Best after 2022.Cellar Selection. —S.S. bright and fresh, with lemony flavors. It brings tex- cantaloupe lead to fleshy kiwi, papaya and other abv: 14.2% Price: $35 ture and tension. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. tropical-fruit flavors. It’s a cornucopia of fruit, with abv: NA Price: $22 a zing on the finish tying it together.Best Buy. —S.S. Lobo Hills 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Yakima abv: 13.2% Price: $12 91 Valley).­ The aromas are expressive, with notes of gooseberry, kiwi, underripe pineapple and OTHER WHITE WINES Waterbrook 2019 Pinot Gris (Columbia Valley).­ lemon zest, and are thoroughly compelling. The pal- 87 As much about feel as flavor, this wine ate shows a lovely sense of restraint and freshness DeLille 2019 Roussanne (Red Mountain). is a bit reductive out of the gate. Beyond that are to the richly textured kiwi flavors. Mouthwatering 95 The aromas are intoxicating, with notes ­medium-bodied apple favors that bring some heft acidity enlivens it all. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. of apricot, sea shell and herb showing complexity. on this otherwise neutral-seeming wine. —S.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 The flavors display texture, depth, purity, balance abv: 11.79% Price: $13 and length. The acid balance in particular is exqui- Aquilini 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Red Moun- site. It’s an accomplishment for this variety and for 90 tain). The aromas are light, with notes of white wines in the state. It is delicious now but has herb, citrus and whiffs of tropical fruit. Full-bodied

132 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 and plum. The flavors show restraint and sophis- pure dark-fruit flavors follow. It’s a window into a ROSÉS tication, with plenty of stuffing. The acidity of the pure expression­ of the variety, absolutely delicious. vintage brightens it. It has a very long life ahead. Editors’­ Choice. —S.S. DeLille 2019 Rosé (Columbia Valley). Best after 2026.Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $28 88 ­Grenache (47%) and Mourvèdre (45%) abv: 14.2% Price: $160 make up most of this wine, with the rest Cinsault. Airfield Estates 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Pale-salmon colored edging slightly darker, the aro- Gorman 2017 Albatross Reserve Cabernet 90 (Yakima­ Valley). Subtle aromas of match- mas bring notes of satsuma, cherry and watermelon. 93 Sauvignon (Red Mountain). All varietal and stick, cherry and herb lead to plentiful black-cur- The palate is full bodied, seeming quite ponderous. aged in 100% new French oak, the aromas offer rant, plum and herb flavors brightened by tart acids. There’s nice acid, but the wine still gets weighted notes of ripe black cherry, incense and char. Rich, It hasn’t come out of its shell yet but has the stuff- down. —S.S. intense fruit flavors follow. It’s a big hammer of a ing to excel when it does. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $32 wine, bringing power like only this producer can abv: 14.1% Price: $18 bring it. Toast notes linger on the finish.Editors’ H3 2019 Rosé (Horse Heaven Hills). There’s Choice. —S.S. Dixie & Bass 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon 87 just a tinge of color to this wine. Cherry and abv: 15.2% Price: $80 90 (Columbia­ Valley). For full review see page watermelon aromas lead to broad, slightly fat-feel- 19. Editors’ Choice. ing flavors that get bogged down. —S.S. Luke 2018 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.5% Price: $18 abv: 12.7% Price: $15 93 (Wahluke­ Slope). Highly regarded Stone- Tree Vineyard is the dominant fruit source for this Gorman 2018 Old Scratch Cabernet Sauvi- Waterbrook 2019 Sangiovese (Columbia wine. Coffee, dried herb and black-cherry aromas 90 gnon (Red Mountain). Aromas of blue fruit, 86 Valley).­ An appealing pale-salmon color, lead to a palate that brings a whole lot of serious- dried herb, barrel spice and graphite lead to plenti- this wine shows a significant amount of reduction ness to it. It’s rich and dense, full of tannic heft. ful plum flavors. A fresh lick of acidity keeps it all in out of the gate. The palate is light and bright, with a Give it time to stretch its legs—and drink it at a cool focus, despite­ the high labeled ABV. There’s plenty pleasing zip of acidity. —S.S. temperature—to see it at its best. Best after 2025. of tannin to back it up. —S.S. abv: 10.9% Price: $13 Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 15.4% Price: $31 abv: NA Price: $60 Lobo Hills 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon CABERNET SAUVIGNON Doubleback 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla 90 (Columbia­ Valley). Blended with both Mal- 92 Walla Valley). This wine is a blend of fruit bec (13%) and ­Merlot (12%), this wine’s roasted DeLille 2017 Four Flags Cabernet Sauvignon from McQueen, Lefore, Bob Healy, Seven Hills and coffee-bean, scorched earth, herb and raspberry 93 (Red Mountain). This is a blend of fruit from Figgins vineyards. Vibrant aromas of char, dark aromas lead to fruit and barrel flavors that have a Upchurch (30%), Ciel du Cheval (27%), Grand Ciel chocolate, coffee, cherry and barrel spice lead to pleasing acidic lift. It will have a very long life ahead (24%) and Klipsun vineyards (19%). The aromas a pleasingly ­restrained palate, with a tart snap of of it. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. offer notes of sautéed dried herb, raspberry, dry acidity. It shows the variety’s sophisticated side. abv: 14.25% Price: $25 chocolate and earth. Dense, fresh coffee and cherry Best after 2025.Cellar ­ Selection. —S.S. flavors follow. It lingers on the finish, showing a abv: 14.4% Price: $99 Lady Hill 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum- pleasing sense of brightness. It drinks well now 89 bia Valley). The aromas suggest notes of but seems to be immortal. Best after 2026.Cellar Doubleback 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sau- graphite, bittersweet chocolate, cigar box, anise, Selection. —S.S. 92 vignon (Walla Walla Valley). This is all flower and dark cherry. Soft, reserved flavors follow. abv: 14.6% Price: $70 McQueen and LeFore vineyard fruit. Coffee and bar- It needs more tannin structure to fully stand it up rel-spice aromas are in the lead at present. The pal- but it’s an enjoyable expression. —S.S. DeLille 2017 Lot 3 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red ate is packed full of tannins and acid structure, with abv: 14.5% Price: $38 93 Mountain). All of the fruit for this wine the fruit currently playing second fiddle. It needs comes from Klipsun Vineyard. The aromas pull you time in the cellar for the oak to integrate. Best after Lone Birch 2018 Estate Grown Cabernet Sau- in, with notes of cherry, black currant, barrel spice, 2026. Cellar Selection. —S.S. 89 vignon (Yakima Valley). This wine shows earth and whiffs of satsuma. Full-feeling dark- abv: 14.7% Price: $145 much of what there is to love about the 2018 vin- chocolate and cherry flavors follow, bring a sense of tage: a mouthful of plush, expansive fruit flavors, density and chewiness. It shows the vibrancy of the Luke 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Wahluke with plenty of acidity to back them up. One would vintage, with compelling structure and impressive 92 Slope). For full review see page 13. Editors’­ like more aromatically from this quiet wine, but the length. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Choice. palate delivers plenty. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $75 abv: 14.4% Price: $25 abv: 14.2% Price: $13

DeLille 2017 Shaw Vineyard Cabernet Sau- Gorman 2017 The Bully Cabernet Sauvignon H3 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven 93 vignon (Red Mountain). The aromas draw 91 (Red Mountain). Blended with 8% Petit Ver- 88 Hills). The aromas offer barrel-forward you into the glass, with notes of earth, dark cherry, dot and aged in 90% new French oak, this wine’s notes of baking spice and vanilla in front of cherry. flower, black currant and raspberry, showing a com- roasted coffee-bean and dark-chocolate aromas are The r­eserved blue-fruit and spice flavors show pelling sense of detail. The palate is dense, full of up front, followed by notes of cherry liqueur. Plen- pleasing balance. —S.S. plum flavors, backed by tightly wound tannins and tiful, sensuous chocolate and cherry flavors follow, abv: 14.5% Price: $15 accented by bright acidity. Coffee notes linger on the lingering on the finish. It shows both the vintage finish. It’s hard to resist now but will only get better and the winery’s hedonistic style. —S.S. Roaming Dog 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon with time in the cellar. Best from 2026–2032. Cel- abv: 15.2% Price: $50 88 (Columbia­ Valley). Spice and cherry aromas lar Selection. —S.S. lead to lightly sweet dark-fruit flavors. It’s a pleas- abv: 14.1% Price: $75 Virtue 2018 Charisma Cabernet Sauvignon ant easy drinker. Best Buy. —S.S. 91 (Columbia­ Valley). Fruit for this wine comes abv: 14.5% Price: $13 DeLille 2016 Grand Ciel Cabernet Sauvignon from Olsen and Solaksen vineyards. Seeing no new 93 (Red Mountain). The aromas offer notes of oak, the aromas are pulled back, with notes of herb, roasted coffee, cherry, black currant, scorched earth anise, fresh black currant and plum. Exquisitely

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jam, plum, garden greens and spice are followed by richness, lingering on the finish. It’s the winery’s CABERNET FRANC garden-herb and red-fruit flavors wrapped up in a most complete and captivating offering from the whole lot of tannic structure. Give it plenty of time Rocks to date. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Virtue 2018 Temperance Cabernet Franc to open up. —S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $62 91 (Horse Heaven Hills). Fruit for this 100% abv: 14.5% Price: $30 varietal wine comes from Destiny Ridge Vineyard. Betz Family 2018 La Côte Patriarche Red Brooding cigar-box, dried herb and cherry-licorice Airfield Estates 2017 Merlot (Yakima ­Valley). 93 Willow Vineyard Syrah (Yakima Valley). The aromas lead to fruit flavors that show a lovely sense 88 The aromas bring notes of plum, tar and heart of this wine is fruit from the original 1986 of purity, depth and freshness. Editors’ Choice. black licorice. The flavors paint around the edges, plantings at this vineyard, the first Syrah vines in —S.S. offering lightly medicinal flavors and a smoky finish the state. The aromas pop, with notes of mulberry, abv: 14.3% Price: $26 that trails. —S.S. huckleberry, dark plum, leather, fresh clove, spice abv: 14.2% Price: $18 and dark fruit. Full fruit flavors follow, bringing Lady Hill 2016 Cabernet Franc (Columbia tannic heft that augurs well for its longevity. Best 90 Valley).­ There’s a pleasing sophistication Be Human 2018 Merlot (Columbia Valley). after 2025.Cellar Selection. —S.S. to this wine, with its aromas of flower, herb and 88 The aromas suggest notes of cigar leaf, dried abv: 13.7% Price: $62 cherry. Like many wines from this vintage, the fla- herb and cherry. The flavors are restrained, showing vors are light and the tannins are bunched up at nuance. —S.S. Structure 2018 Bauhaus Syrah (Columbia present, but there will be good things there when abv: 14.5% Price: $16 93 Valley). A blend of Wallula (60%) and they stretch out. Best after 2022. —S.S. Stillwater Creek fruit, the aromas are captivating, abv: 14.3% Price: $38 H3 2017 Merlot (Horse Heaven Hills). The with notes of dark raspberry, bramble and herb that 87 oak has a strong influence on the aromas show a piercing sense of purity. The flavors are daz- Lobo Hills 2017 Lonesome Springs Ranch and flavors, with notes of vanilla, baking spice and zling, showing intensity and depth but also elegance 90 C­abernet Franc (Yakima Valley). This is a coconut. It seems under-fruited for the oak impact. and balance. Coffee notes linger on the finish. It’s a 100% varietal wine. Lighter in color than the norm —S.S. frankly delicious wine, but it’s the structure—and for this variety, it offers aromas of spice, flower, abv: 14.5% Price: $15 the quality at this price—that impresses most. Best licorice and raspberry. The palate shows sophistica- after 2023 with an extremely long life ahead of that. tion and elegance. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $30 SYRAH abv: 14.6% Price: $30

Liminal 2018 High Canyon Series Weather- Virtue 2018 Sincerity Syrah (Columbia V­alley). MERLOT 97 Eye Vineyard Syrah (Red Mountain). Com- 93 All of the fruit for this wine comes from ing from a canyon high up on Red Mountain and Wallula Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills. The Luke 2018 Merlot (Wahluke Slope). The aro- aged in 18% new French oak, the aromas pull you aromas pop, with notes of freshly chopped parsley, 92 mas pop, with notes of dark raspberry, choc- into the glass, with notes of mulberry, blackberry, whole tangerine, fresh boysenberry and smoked olate and cherry, showing a bright sense of varietal kirsch, earth, crushed rock, coffee and bacon fat. meat. Rich, layered flavors follow. It brings inten- purity. Ripe, full-bodied, layered fruit flavors fol- There’s depth, intensity, richness, layering, polish, sity and depth, but there is still plenty of freshness. low, with the acidity bringing a lot of freshness and and texture to the palate. The finish is endless. This But it’s the purity and lengthy finish that captivate. exquisite balance. It lingers on the finish. Delicious wine has it all, with the impressive balance, inten- —S.S. and fruit filled, with plenty of structure, it’s hedo- sity, acidity and length separating it far out front. It abv: 14.3% Price: $25 nism at its best—a surefire crowd pleaser. Give a sings from the top of Red Mountain. Best after 2026. short decant if drinking in the near term. Editors’ Cellar­ Selection. —S.S. Betz Family 2018 La Côte Rousse Syrah (Red Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $75 92 Mountain). Cofermented with 6% Viognier, abv: 14.7% Price: $25 the aromas are lifted, with notes of boysenberry pie, Liminal 2018 Block Highlight Series Block fresh flower and orange peel. It’s a mouthful of blue- Structure 2018 Spire Merlot (Yakima Valley). 96 16 WeatherEye Vineyard Syrah (Columbia and purple-fruit flavors, showing impressive fresh- 91 The aromas bring notes of whole orange, Valley).­ Fruit for this wine comes from the highest ness and deftness for this warm appellation. —S.S. sweet flower, raspberry and plum. Plush plum block currently planted on Red Mountain, north fac- abv: 13.9% Price: $62 and pomegranate flavors follow. Coffee notes lin- ing at the top of the ridge, outside the AVA bound- ger on the finish. It brings a pleasing sense of tex- aries. Aged in 25% new French oak, it’s the most Betz Family 2018 La Serenne Boushey Vine- ture, freshness and terrific staying power.Editors’ brooding of the winery’s inaugural releases, with 92 yard Syrah (Yakima Valley). Blackberry, Choice. —S.S. notes of dried herb, blackberry, coffee and clove. It’s smoked meat, plum, dried herb and medicine aro- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 dazzling in its intensity and layering, saturating the mas lead to expressive fruit flavors, with light palate from end to end while still showing fleetness ­Robitussin cough-syrup accents. It puts a premium Virtue 2018 Authenticity Merlot (Yakima of foot. Packed full of tannin and acid, it absolutely on elegance. The most backward initially of the 91 Valley).­ Though not labeled as such, this is sails on the finish. The balance is exquisite. Best 2018 releases, it is tightly clenched at present. Best all single-vineyard Olsen Merlot. Roasted coffee- a­fter 2025. Cellar Selection. —S.S. after 2025.Cellar Selection. —S.S. bean aromas are out front initially, followed by abv: 14.8% Price: $60 abv: 13.9% Price: $62 notes of herb and raspberry. Smooth fruit and bar- rel flavors follow, showing depth and structure. Luke 2018 Reserve Syrah (Wahluke Slope). Luke 2018 Syrah (Wahluke Slope). Aromas of The barrel influence shows more prominently than 94 For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. 92 black raspberry, scorched earth and pome- other inaugural offerings from the winery, smooth- abv: 14.7% Price: $45 granate lead to rich fruit flavors. It’s a no holds ing out over time, but it still impresses. Drink from barred, rich, intense ­Syrah. ­Decant if drinking in 2022 to 2030. Cellar Selection. —S.S. Betz Family 2018 Domaine de Pierres Syrah the near term. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $26 93 (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas offer notes abv: 14.8% Price: $25 of iron, firepit, stem, Mandarin orange and black Airfield Estates 2016 Reserve Merlot ­olive—classically Rocks District. The firepit and Structure 2018 Foundation Syrah (­Columbia 90 (Yakima­ Valley). Aromas of raspberry other savory flavors are intense, bringing textural 92 Valley). This blend of Stillwater Creek,

134 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 ­Wallula and Red Willow fruit is everything there Lobo Hills 2015 StoneTree Vineyard Syrah a wine, rich, layered and intense, with earthshaking is to love about this variety: compelling aromatics 88 (Wahluke Slope). The aromas bring notes intensity and plenty of tension. There’s impressive and great depth of flavor. Alluring aromas of flower of manure, licorice, berry and whiffs of oak spice. tannin and an abundance of acidity to enliven it all. fresh, chopped parsley, boysenberry, smoked meat ­Especially considering the warmth of the vintage, The fruit-filled finish seems near endless. It’s a new and medicine lead to full-bodied layered flavors. the palate is surprisingly reserved, trailing on the benchmark for Rhône-style blends in Washington. Though delicious­ now, it appears it will be near finish. —S.S. Best after 2025.Cellar Selection. —S.S. eternal. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 13.75% Price: $30 abv: 14.9% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Lone Birch ­2018 Estate Grown Syrah (Yakima Betz Family 2018 Bésoleil (Columbia Val- Airfield Estates 2017 Reserve Syrah (Yakima 88 Valley). Showing some reduction initially, 94 ley). Grenache makes up 46% of this wine, 91 Valley). The aromas offer notes of orange oil, the aromas suggest notes of char, black raspberry with Mourvèdre and Counoise each accounting for smoked meat, medicine, fresh herb and dark fruit. and gravel. The palate is deft and up front, trailing a 24% and the balance being Syrah. With the major- An assortment of sleek-feeling orange-peel, plum bit toward the finish but overall showing good bal- ity of the fruit coming from Olsen Vineyard in and savory flavors follow, with the orange notes ance. There’s plenty of value to be had. Best Buy. Yakima Valley, the aromas explode from the glass, showing prominently at present. Coffee flavors lin- —S.S. with notes of raspberry, smoked meat, huckleberry ger on the finish. —S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $13 and white pepper. The palate has dense, textured, abv: 14.3% Price: $30 layered fruit flavors but still remains fleet of foot. There is a compelling sense of freshness and texture DeLille 2017 Signature Syrah (Columbia Val- GRENACHE to it. It’s a complete dazzler. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. 91 ley). Ciel du Cheval fruit makes up 71% of abv: 13.8% Price: $48 this wine, with the rest from StoneTree. Aromas of Liminal 2018 High Canyon Series WeatherEye coffee, lavender, earth and assorted dried herbs are 97 Vineyard Grenache (Red Mountain). The first Cadence 2017 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard (Red followed by a sleek but flavorful palate that shows thing one notices about this wine is the depth of 93 Mountain). Cabernet Franc (42%) is in the the acidity of the vintage. Drink now. —S.S. color for the variety. Coming from the Amphitheater lead on this wine, with Cabernet Sauvignon (33%), abv: 14.6% Price: $46 block, the aromas pop in notes of black raspberry, Petit Verdot (17%) and Merlot following. Brooding rose petal, pomegranate and crushed rock. Red and aromas of black currant, anise, dried and fresh herb, DeLille 2016 Grand Ciel Syrah (Red Mountain). black fruit flavors undulate across the palate, show- scorched earth and boysenberry lead to a tightly 91 The aromas suggest notes of iron, medicine ing deftness, richness and detail. The finish goes packed, highly structured palate, with mouthwater- and earth, along with dark berry. The palate has on as long—longer even than one cares to count. ing flavors. It will be timeless, but best after 2026. depth of flavor but with an acidic snap that ups the Throughout it all, it retains a sense of balance and Cellar Selection. —S.S. ante. —S.S. freshness. It’s a yardstick against which future abv: 14.4% Price: $45 abv: 14.1% Price: $75 Washington Grenache will be measured. Editors’­ Choice. —S.S. Cadence 2017 Tapteil Vineyard (Red Moun- Proper 2018 Estate Syrah (Walla Walla Val- abv: 15% Price: $75 93 tain). Cabernet Sauvignon makes up 43% of 91 ley). This wine could only come from one this wine, with the rest Cabernet Franc (29%) and place, with its aromas of wet rock, savory herb, Virtue 2018 Enthusiasm Grenache (Columbia Merlot. The aromas pop, with notes of raspberry, flower, plum, orange rind and olive brine. The pal- 92 Valley). All of the fruit for this wine comes flower, fresh herb, black currant and scorched earth. ate shows a sense of deftness to the fruit and savory from Thunderstone Vineyard on the Royal Slope, The palate is tightly coiled, packed full of bold tan- flavors, along with the Rocks District’s plush feel. and is fermented as whole berries, with extended nin and bright acids. It’s a classic example of the —S.S. . The aromas aren’t fully ready to reveal vintage, region and this producer’s style. Best from abv: 14.1% Price: $65 their charms on first pour, but they eventually open 2024–2032. Cellar Selection. —S.S. to reveal­ notes of chopped parsley, black pepper and abv: 14.4% Price: $45 Structure 2017 Red Willow Vineyard Syrah pure berry. The palate is full of grace and polish, 91 (Yakima­ Valley). This wine comes from one ramping up in intensity over time, with a lingering DeLille 2017 Chaleur Estate (Red Mountain). of the state’s top Syrah sites. Compelling aromas of finish. It has the stuffing to go the distance.Editors’ 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (65%) and Merlot dark raspberry, bramble, smoked meat and medi- Choice. —S.S. (25%) make up the heart of this wine, with the rest cine lead to plentiful, lightly tacky-feeling fruit fla- abv: 14.3% Price: $26 Cabernet Franc (8%) and Petit Verdot. The aromas vors. The acid of the vintage drives it, and it shows show complexity, with notes of barrel spice, plum, an impeccable sense of balance. Drink in the near- Rôtie Cellars 2018 Little G Grenache (Wash- cherry, scorched earth, herb and licorice. Struc- ish term. —S.S. 90 ington). The aromas intrigue, with vivid tured, rich fruit flavors with lively acids, big tan- abv: NA Price: $35 notes of freshly peeled orange along with gravel and nins and a hyperextended finish follow. It will have red fruit. Orange-peel and smoked meat flavors fol- a very long life ahead of it. Best after 2027.Cellar Gorman 2018 Sleeping Giant Boushey Vine- low. It’s a very pulled-back offering of the variety, Selection. —S.S. 90 yard Syrah (Yakima Valley). Coming from interesting though a bit one-note at times. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $85 one of the state’s top Syrah sites, aromas of spice, abv: 14% Price: $65 dark fruit and sugared plum lead to raspberry fla- Gorman 2018 Evil Twin Syrah-Cabernet Sau- vors that are more restrained than the aromas might 93 vignon (Red Mountain). An 80-20 blend, the suggest. It shows the riper side of the variety. —S.S. RED BLENDS aromas provide appeal, with notes of iron and other abv: 15.6% Price: $60 minerals along with plum and dark fruit. Dense, lay- Liminal 2018 Vineyard Series WeatherEye ered, rich blue- and black-fruit flavors follow, with Gorman 2017 The Pixie Syrah (Red Moun- 96 Vineyard G-S-M (Columbia Valley). Fruit plenty of tannins providing the scaffolding. It’s a 89 tain). Aromas of barnyard, hay and berry for this inaugural wine comes from a new site up ­hedonistic delight, made in this producer’s trade- lead to fruit and savory flavors that are more sleek and over the top of Red Mountain and down onto mark power-packed style. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. and center focused than the norm for this producer. the north side. Grenache makes up 42%, followed abv: 15.3% Price: $65 As with many wines from this vintage, there is a by Mourvèdre (38%) and Syrah. The aromas bring pleasing ­acidic snap. —S.S. notes of pomegranate, mulberry, crushed rock, Cadence 2017 Bel Canto Cara Mia Vineyard abv: 14.8% Price: $45 savory herb and black pepper. It’s a big mouthful of 92 (Red Mountain). Cabernet Franc (73%)

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BUYINGGUIDE makes up most of this wine, with the balance Merlot Gorman 2018 The Devil You Know (Columbia Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of satsuma, cedar, (18%) and Petit Verdot. The aromas aren’t ready to 92 Valley). A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sau- plum and herb lead to plump fruit flavors. It’s thor- reveal themselves, opening to show notes of earth, vignon and Petit Verdot, its barrel aromas are out oughly enchanting. —S.S. flower and fresh herb. The flavors are textured, front initially, with notes of coffee and baking spice abv: 14.2% Price: $54 undulating across the palate. It brings a sense of followed by cherry. Plentiful pit-fruit flavors follow, intensity and freshness that is thoroughly captivat- showing a lovely sense of balance. It’s thoroughly Gorman 2018 The Devil You Don’t Know ing. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. delicious. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. 91 (­Columbia Valley). Like many wines from this abv: 14.4% Price: $60 abv: 14.4% Price: $30 producer, this one puts an emphasis on hedonism, and it brings plenty of it. Plum, coffee, mineral, Cadence 2017 Camerata Cara Mia Vineyard Gorman 2018 Zachary’s Ladder (Red Moun- nougat and cassis aromas lead to ripe, intense but 92 (Red Mountain). This is a rare 100% Cab- 92 tain). It seems that 2018 was a bountiful still-balanced fruit flavors that pack a big punch. ernet Sauvignon from this producer. The aromas vintage, and this wine offers its cornucopia of fruit. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. are compelling, with notes of scorched earth, flower Cherry- and raspberry-gummy aromas are followed abv: 15.1% Price: $30 and cherry, showing an unmistakable Cara Mia pro- by plump, rounded fruit flavors that show impressive file. A dense, structured palate follows. —S.S. depth, layering and plenty of structure to support it Lobo Hills 2017 Right Bank Blend (Columbia abv: 14.4% Price: $60 all. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. 91 Valley). This is Merlot blended with Caber- abv: 14.9% Price: $35 net Sauvignon (18%) and Cabernet Franc (9%). DeLille 2017 D2 (Columbia Valley). Merlot Coffee, cherry and herb aromas are followed by a 92 makes up two-thirds of this wine, with the Luke 2018 The Companion Red Blend pleasingly reserved style. Coffee notes linger on the rest Cabernet Sauvignon along with bits of Cabernet 92 (Columbia Valley).­ For full review see page finish.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Franc and Petit Verdot. The aromas are unique, with 13. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $20 notes of bittersweet chocolate, cedar, black tea, and abv: 14.2% Price: $22 raspberry. The palate is sleek in style, filling in over Rôtie Cellars 2017 Homage (Washington). time, bringing a lovely sense of finesse and balance. Structure 2018 The Newel (Columbia V­alley). 91 Mourvèdre makes up 70% of this wine, with Bright acidity ups the interest. Give it some time in 92 This is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% the rest Syrah (20%) and Grenache. Aromas of the cellar to see it at its best. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Syrah. Its fresh garden-herb, flower stem and ­cherry black pepper, smoked meat, blue fruit and herb lead abv: 14.2% Price: $48 aromas are out front. The fruit flavors are palate to a palate that shows more of the same and brings coating, showing pleasing density and intensity. a sense of liveliness. Olive notes linger on the finish. DeLille 2017 Doyenne (Yakima Valley). This Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Pair it with grilled lamb. —S.S. 92 is 60% Syrah and 40% Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14.3% Price: $28 abv: 15.2% Price: $65 gnon. The aromas bring notes of brown spices, berry and barrel toast. The coffee and cherry flavors are Virtue 2018 Fortitude (Columbia Valley). Airfield Estates 2018 Dauntless (Yakima sleek in feel initially, broadening with time open. 92 This is 48% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvi- 90 Valley). This Right Bank-style blend offers —S.S. gnon and 25% Malbec, with fruit coming from ­Olsen aromas of dark raspberry, black currant, toast and abv: 14.6% Price: $45 and Solaksen vineyards. The aromas are compel- fresh herb aromas. Plum, raspberry and cherry fla- ling, with notes of raspberry, dried herb, plum and vors follow. There is a lot to like. Best after 2022. DeLille 2017 Harrison Hill (Snipes Mountain). cherry, showing mesmerizing purity. Full, achingly Editors’ Choice. —S.S. 92 Two-thirds of this are Cabernet Sauvi- pure flavors follow, with knee-buckling texture. It’s abv: 14% Price: $18 gnon, with the rest Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Its an end-to-end delight. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. ­pleasing aromas of roasted coffee bean, fresh savory abv: 14.4% Price: $24 Cadence 2018 Coda (Red Mountain). Caber- herb, green flower and cherry are followed by light, 90 net Franc makes up 37% of this blend, with elegant flavors. Toasty flavors linger on the finish. Virtue 2018 Unity G-S-M (Columbia Valley). the rest Merlot (29%), Cabernet Sauvignon 23%) It’s a very pretty, elegant expression of this site with 92 Syrah makes up 48% of this wine, with the and Petit Verdot. The aromas are locked up on first a very long life ahead of it. Best after 2027.Cellar rest 32% Mourvèdre and 20% Grenache. With fruit pour, with notes of whole orange, raspberry, cherry Selection. —S.S. coming from Wallula, Des Etes Long, and Thunder- and herb that show freshness. Soft, plush fruit fla- abv: 13.7% Price: $98 stone vineyards and seeing only second-fill and vors follow. It’s less overtly structure-driven than- neutral oak, the aromas are light but intriguing, previous offerings, but still has plenty of longevity DeLille 2018 Métier (Columbia Valley). with notes of smoked meat, medicine, fresh parsley, in it. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. 92 This delicious wine is a blend of Mourvè- plum and berry. It’s beautifully textured but still abv: 14.4% Price: $28 dre (50%), Grenache (28%), Syrah (20%) and sleek and velvety in feel, showing exquisite polish, Cinsault. The aromas bring notes of iron, earth, structure and a long finish. It’s gorgeous stuff at a H3 2018 Red (Horse Heaven Hills). Like dried herb, flower and berry. The palate is pure, can’t-be-beat price. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. 90 many wines from this vintage, this one rich unadulterated hedonism, with superb length. abv: 14.4% Price: $24 packs a fruit-filled wallop. Toast, coffee and blue- Editors’­ Choice. —S.S. berry aromas give way to ripe, plush plum flavors abv: 14.7% Price: $40 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2017 Artist Series that bring a sense of seamlessness. It’s a whole lot 91 (Columbia­ Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon of wine for the money. Best Buy. —S.S. DeLille 2017 Red Willow Vineyard (Yakima accounts for 56% of this wine, with the rest Merlot abv: 14.5% Price: $15 92 Valley). Cabernet Franc (54%) makes up (39%) and smidgen of Malbec and Cabernet Franc. over half of this wine, with the rest Merlot (32%) The aromas are brooding, with notes of barrel spice, Airfield Estates 2017 Runway (Yakima and Cabernet Sauvignon. The aromas are generous, dark chocolate, dried and black cherry. Creamy fruit 89 Valley).­ The volume is turned up on this with notes of barrel toast, fresh herb, raspberry, and barrel flavors follow, showing an appealing tex- wine, with ripe fruit aromas and flavors full of black black currant and soil. Ripe, plush flavors follow, ture. Coffee and raspberry notes linger on the finish. fruit. Grainy tannins back it up. There are interest- showing pleasing purity, freshness and length. It’s a complete charmer. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. ing things happening, but they don’t all entirely Tasty now, it will have a long very life ahead. Edi- abv: 14.5% Price: $65 come together. —S.S. tors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $32 abv: 14.4% Price: $75 DeLille 2017 Minuit (Yakima Valley). Malbec 91 makes up 70% of this wine, with the rest

136 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 Ad Lucem 2016 Day Star Slide Mountain textbook example of what there is to love about this 88 Vineyard (Columbia Valley). This is a blend variety. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. of Tempranillo (38%), Touriga Nacional (37%) and abv: 14.1% Price: $49 Syrah. The aromas intrigue, with notes of pencil eraser, herb and saddle leather. Like many wines Virtue 2018 Vitality Malbec (Columbia from this vintage, the palate is sleek in feel, with 92 Valley).­ All of the fruit for this 100% bright acidity. Drink now. —S.S. ­varietal wine comes from Solaksen Vineyard on the abv: 14.1% Price: $42 Royal Slope. Aged in second-fill and neutral oak, the aromas are brooding initially, with notes of cherry, Airfield Estates 2017 Founders H. Lloyd Miller plum, orange oil and dried herb, showing a sense 88 (Yakima Valley). The aromas aren’t ready to of purity. The flavors are expressive and ­ocused,f reveal themselves, with notes of dark cherry, orange showing density and richness. Editors’ Choice. peel and barrel spice. Full-bodied, lightly smoky —S.S. flavors follow, with mesquite notes on the finish. abv: 14.3% Price: $25 The tannins give a firm, slightly astringent squeeze. It’s bunched up at present. Give it some time in the Rôtie Cellars 2018 Dre Mourvèdre (Washing- c­ellar to stretch out. —S.S. 91 ton). All of the fruit for this 100% varietal abv: 14.2% Price: $50 wine comes from Upland Vineyard on Snipes Moun- tain. It’s chock-full of aromas of freshly ground black Paplow 2016 Boushey Vineyard G-S-M pepper, along with fresh and dried herb. The palate­ 88 (Yakima­ Valley). Grenache makes up 57% has an acidic snap, with plentiful black-pepper­ of this wine, followed by near equal parts Syrah, ­accents. Tasty stuff.Editors’ Choice. —S.S. Mourvèdre and Cinsault along with a dollop (6%) abv: 14.7% Price: $65 of Viognier. The aromas bring notes of black pepper, manure, flower and an assortment of red and black fruit. Full-feeling flavors follow, with theacids ­ SWEET WINE o­ffering freshness. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $NA Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen 2012 95 Eroica Single Berry Select Riesling (Columbia Procedo 2016 Credente Red Willow Vineyard Valley). Compelling aromas of marmalade, honey, 88 (Columbia Valley). Sangiovese makes up lemon and ginger lead to rich, mouthcoating, exqui- 56% of this wine, with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon sitely balanced fruit flavors. The intensity is outra- (22%), Merlot (11%) and Cabernet Franc. Light geous, but it’s the balance and endless finish that aromas of cherry cough drop, flower and herb are separates this wine—a true accomplishment of followed by fruit flavors, with good acids and a firm sheer enjoyment. Best after 2024.Cellar Selection. backbone of tannin. —S.S. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $42 abv: 7.5% Price: $200

Roaming Dog 2018 Red (Columbia Valley). 88 The aromas offer notes of boysenberry and huckleberry. Plush, palate-coating flavors follow, showing impressive balance. It’s a lovely, fruit-filled wine. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $13

Lone Birch 2017 Estate Grown (Yakima Valley).­ 87 The aromas are unusual, with notes of sea- weed, umami and orange peel. Lighter styled, quite smoky flavors follow, with the tannins giving a light squeeze. —S.S. abv: 14% Price: $13

Waterbrook 2018 Mélange Founder’s Red 87 Blend (Columbia Valley). Subdued aromas lead to flavors that seem a bit muddled. It’s some- what off-step with the vintage. —S.S. abv: 13.95% Price: $16

OTHER RED WINES

DeLille 2017 Red Willow Malbec (Yakima 92 Valley). Coming from one of the state’s top vineyards, satsuma, orange-oil and plum aromas lead to palate-staining purple-fruit flavors. It’s a

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clove. It finishes long and alluring on plenty of sweet spices and a puff of pipe smoke. abv: 46% Price: $67

Murray McDavid Òrdha Meas 13 Year Old SPIRITS 94 Scotch (Scotland; Glass Revolution, Las Blended Scotch with added intrigue Vegas, NV). Òrdha meas means golden fruit in Gaelic. Look for a burnished gold hue and mel- low aromas that suggest baked apple drizzled with onventional wisdom about blended Scotch exactly a standard easy-sipper for entry-level caramel. The velvety palate opens on a toffee note is that it’s an everyday dram that’s engi- whisky fans. coupled with fiery clove, cinnamon and black pep- neered for consistency. It’s easy-drinking Despite famously strict regulations from per, while salted caramel flows into the finish. This in terms of flavor and proof, and tends to Scotch’s governing agency, producers employ limited edition bottling is made using a blend of beC priced with an eye toward value. a number of tools and techniques to stretch whiskies from all five Scotch-making regions. abv: 46% Price: $50 While that’s true of many, it’s not uni- boundaries. Just look to “teaspooned” blends versal. In fact, a growing number of blended like Peatside, meaning it’s 99.9% of one sin- Compass Box Hedonism Scotch (Scotland; Scotch bottlings are complex gle malt, and .01% (a teaspoon) 93 MHW Ltd., Manhasset, NY). Fresh aromas and intriguing, and a handful of a sister malt, or Syndicate suggest red apple slices and hint of vanilla. The are clearly priced as special- Many blends are 58/6, which is finished in a sol- supersoft palate rings out with vanilla cookie and custard, finishing long and mouthwatering on sweet occasion sippers. While consis- era system—in other words, produced in limited spices, piquant cayenne and drying hints of cigar tency still is prized, many blends quantities, yielding it may contain tiny traces of wrapper and campfire smoke. Consider this as a are produced in limited quanti- just as few older whiskies. And while fin- dessert pairing. ties, yielding just as few hard- ishing Scotch in casks that pre- abv: 43% Price: $115 to-duplicate bottles as a small- hard-to-duplicate viously held other spirits or Compass Box Myths & Legends III Scotch batch single malts. bottles as small- wines is a long-held tradition, 93 (Scotland; MHW Ltd., Manhasset, NY). The Consider, for example, Hedo- batch single malts. ­mezcal is a relative newcomer third installation of the Myths & Legends series is nism Felicitas, produced by to the toolbox. Witness stalwart light and elegant. Mild honey, coconut and floral Compass Box to celebrate the ­Dewar’s experiment with Illegal honeysuckle tones finesse nose and palate, wind- brand’s 20th anniversary. When the brand ­Mezcal-finished Scotch. ing into a spiced finish marked by a mouthwatering hint of sea salt and the faintest puff of smoke on the launched in 2000, the vanilla-forward­ Hedo- These bottles defy many of the usual expec- exhale. A splash of water pulls it all together. nism was its first product. The new limited-­ tations about blended Scotch and that’s not abv: 46% Price: $153 edition Felicitas comprises three grain whiskies,­ necessarily a bad thing. An old reliable is great each distilled in a different decade. Despite its to have on hand, but since every day is a little Duncan Taylor Politician Blended Scotch custardy plushness—a Hedonism on steroids—­ different, maybe it’s best to have more than one 93 (Scotland; Shand Import, Duarte, CA). So named because it was originally an exclusive for The it’s complex and bottled at 106 proof, not “everyday dram” to enjoy. —Kara Newman Politician bar on Scotland’s remote Eriskay island, this golden whisky has a mild, slightly floral aroma. Hints of almond butter, pear and white flowers lead into a warming toasted coconut finish laced with plenty of tingly white pepper. Best Buy. Compass Box Great King Street Artist’s Compass Box Hedonism Felicitas Scotch abv: 40% Price: $20 96 Blend Scotch (Scotland, MHW Ltd., Manhas- 94 (Scotland; MHW Ltd., Manhasset, NY). set, NY). Part of the Great King Street series, this Released to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Blackadder Puff Adder Scotch (Scotland; is a sweetie of a blended Scotch. The first feather- Compass Box brand in 2020, this special, higher- 92 Glass Revolution, Las Vegas, NV). Not as light sips open with vanilla custard, orchard fruit octane edition of the Hedonism expression is worth overwhelmingly smoky as the name might sug- and coconut cream, rounding into enticing red fruit seeking out. Look for fresh apple and almond aro- gest, this pale-straw blended whisky offers a fresh on the finish. A splash of water unlocks more red mas. The notably soft, plush palate opens with apple aroma. The buttery palate echoes that apple fruit, along with tinges of butterscotch, oak and vanilla custard and warm baked apple, finishing sweetness, layering it with moderate smokiness, spice. Best Buy. gently on a cloud of sweet spices and final burst of coconut and black pepper. With repeated sips, the abv: 43% Price: $37 cinnamon. A splash of water brings more vanilla balance shifts, with smokiness overtaking the fruit forward, so each sip suggests cinnamon buns or and spice, finishing on iodine and saline. Still, it’s Compass Box Rogues’ Banquet Scotch vanilla French toast. a moderate amount of smoke that enhances rather 95 (Scotland; MHW Ltd., Manhasset, NY). abv: 53% Price: $175 than engulfs. Warm golden raisin and dried fig aromas entice on abv: 46% Price: $73 the nose. The rich palate shows cooked and dried Compass Box The Spice Tree Scotch (Scot- fruits—raisin, dried apricot, figs and baked apple— 94 land; MHW Ltd., Manhasset, NY). The name Monkey Shoulder Scotch (Scotland; William plus a smooth layer of marzipan and peppery spice says it all: This is a spice-forward blended Scotch 92 Grant & Sons, New York, NY). This blended on top. The faintest whiff of smoke finishes it off. for sure. The bold aroma evokes fresh apple and Scotch opens with a bright, fresh-cut apple aroma. Complex and ideal for sipping. spice, while the palate shows darker, more warm- On the palate, butterscotch richness gives way to abv: 46% Price: $225 ing flavors of baked apple, cinnamon, vanilla and mild hints of smoke and juicy citrus. This versatile

138 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 pour could be enjoyed on its own or recommended spicy ginger cookies. Adding water releases a slight for mixing. Best Buy. medicinal tinge and even more spice into the finish. abv: 43% Price: $33 Best Buy. abv: 40% Price: $17 The Islay Boys Flatnose Blended Scotch 92 (Scotland; Shand Import, Duarte, CA). Harleston Green Blended Scotch Whisky Golden and bright in the glass, this whisky offers 89 (Scotland; Park Street Imports, Miami, FL). mild aromas of toasted grain, hops and white flow- This golden and bright whiskey has mild aromas of ers. The silky, delicate palate echoes that grainy apple and resin. The palate opens lightly in tones of note, alongside oatmeal and a flicker of gingery oak, vanilla and almond, finishing dusty and spicy spice. Mouthwatering sea salt trails off into the long on nutmeg and cayenne. A splash of water coaxes finish.Best Buy. out pleasing honey sweetness. Best Buy. abv: 43% Price: $35 abv: 40% Price: $26

Compass Box Tobias & The Angel Scotch Wemyss Malts Spice King Scotch (Scotland; 91 (Scotland; MHW Ltd., Manhasset, NY). This 88 Palm Bay International, Port Washington, blended Scotch has a smoky aroma, with honeyed NY). Concentrated vanilla frames the nose and undertone. The light, silky palate echoes that smo- palate. The first sips also reveal mellow cinnamon kiness, wrapped around a comforting core of honey- and cocoa, rounding into a baked apple note on the comb and finishing on mouthwatering salt and brisk warming finish. black pepper. A splash of water relieves the alcohol abv: 46% Price: $55 heat and unleashes a bit more peat smoke. abv: 47.6% Price: $500 Syndicate 58/6 Blended Scotch Whisky 87 (Scotland; Worldwide Libations, Lyndhurst, Compass Box No Name No. 2 Scotch (Scot- NJ). Made with a blend of malt and grain whis- 90 land; MHW Ltd., Manhasset, NY). Pale gold kies, this blended Scotch is finished in a in the glass, this blended Scotch offers a bracingly system—in other words, it may contain tiny traces smoky aroma and faint whiffs of sea air and iodine. of older whiskies. It drinks like a relatively young The fiery palate opens on tones of honey, baked whisky, however. Soft floral aromas are at odds with pear, banana and coconut all wrapped in a wispy the otherwise herbaceous profile of this Scotch. It peated note. A final exhale of smoke and black pep- opens brisk, tingly and slightly mentholated, with per finishes each sip. hints of hops, espresso and bitter orange peel. The abv: 48.9% Price: $145 finish is long and medicinal, with a final citrusy astringency and burst of alcohol heat. Islay Mist 8-Year Scotch (Scotland; M.S. abv: 43% Price: $64 90 Walker, Boston, MA). Made at Laphroaig, the Islay distillery famed turning out uber-peaty Dewar’s Illegal Smooth Mezcal Cask Finish single malts, this blended Scotch offers a more 86 Scotch (Scotland; Bacardi, Coral Gables, FL). moderate approach to peat. Look for a wispy peated This innovative bottling rests an eight-year-old aroma and mild, pleasant smokiness on the palate blended Scotch in a cask that previously held Illegal mixed with almond sweetness. The spiced midpal- Mezcal for one month. The result is smoky tinge in ate segues into a smoky waft. Sip or mix.Best Buy. the aroma and a palate that layers a core of honey abv: 40% Price: $26 with hints of smoke and rubber, finishing brisk and drying with a sprinkle of peppery heat. Murray McDavid 2010 Peatside 6 Year Old abv: 40% Price: $22 90 Scotch (Scotland; Glass Revolution, Las Vegas, NV). This limited edition is a teaspooned Scotch, meaning what’s in the bottle is 99.9% sin- gle malt from one distillery, plus a small amount of whisky from another distillery, just enough to call it a blend. Sweet smoke aromas entice the nose. The palate echoes that note, reading as cigar wrapper and cigar smoke, honey and stewed fruit. Peppery spice and alcohol heat make for a drying, somewhat numbing sip. Adding water unfurls a smokier note. This was finished in Port and PX casks. abv: 46% Price: $65

Duncan Taylor 5 Star Blended Scotch (Scot- 89 land; Shand Import, Duarte, CA). The mild aroma mingles faint hints of dried fruit and smoke. The palate is bolder, advancing with vanilla and gingery heat from the first sip, finishing long and mouthwatering on tones of sugar cookie, cinnamon and black pepper, yielding a flavor that suggests

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flavors of aged soy and fish sauce. It is the umami that brings you back sip after sip as flavors of dark chocolate, Bourbon and caramel slowly unfold on the palate. Drink soon. BEER abv: 11.1% Price: $35/750 ml Finding beauty in barleywine Port Brewing Don’t Drink Barleywine (Barley- 94 wine; Port Brewing Co., CA). A collaboration with the group Don’t Drink Beer, which promotes second mug of barleywine always seems English barleywines are typically more malt the “Barleywine is Life” mantra, this is a straight- like a good idea at the time, but the focused, while American versions can have forward example of the style without the bells and next morning tells a different story. heartier doses of hops that add earthy or fruity whistles of barrel aging or adjuncts. It should age The strong, dark ale is a historical flavors to the brew. nicely, but enjoyed young it has an earthy hop bit- styleA that remains popular with a small sec- Some brewers choose to release barleywines terness accented by raisin, dried tobacco and pine tar. tion of brewers and drinkers, but has largely in the colder months of the year as annual offer- abv: 10.5% Price: $8/19.2 oz fallen by the wayside in the mainstream beer ings. One of the largest and best known is Big- drinking community. foot from Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. In recent Thomas Hardy 50th Anniversary Golden Edi- This is a shame because years, the California-based 93 tion (English Barleywine; MHW Imports, NY). there is real depth and beauty brewery has been offering ver- Packaged in 2018 but still available on store shelves, There is real depth this golden anniversary offering of a revered bar- in this malt-forward style that’s tical packs of the beer, let- and beauty in this leywine is heavy on the Sherry notes, with hints built to age and evolve over time. ting drinkers taste three pre- of aged leather, butterscotch and red berries. It’s a The colors range from deep cop- malt-forward vious years against the current warming ale that’s low carbonation and streamlined per, to tawny brown and gar- style that’s built to batch. Thomas Hardy, a United in mouthfeel. As it sits it releases a whiff of tobacco. net. There are even some nearly ­Kingdom-based brewer also Beloved for a reason, it is never too early to start age and evolve over a collection of this annual release and taste it over black pours. releases an annual barleywine time. time. While fun to look at, the ale, a tradition that stretches abv: 13% Price: $11/11.5 oz real marvel is the oxidized fla- back more than 50 years. vor, which at times resembles wet cardboard Because of its high alcohol content and abil- Weathered Souls Barrel Aged #BIL (Barrel- and is acceptable in this style, especially in ity to age gracefully, a lot of brewers will design 93 aged Barleywine; Weathered Souls Brewing, TX). The color of golden honey and topped with a aged versions. Candied flavors like rich cara- barleywines to condition in spirit or wine frothy off-white head, this barleywine relies heavily mel, butterscotch­ and fudgy chocolate appear barrels, adding exciting flavors to the mix. To on the Bourbon barrels it was aged in. Big on soft in some versions, while tones of aged leather add to the specialness, quite a few brewers vanilla, toffee and a sharp oak kick, the base beer and wet pipe tobacco arise in others. Sherry- choose to dip the bottles in wax, adding to the is somewhat thin, making it easy drinking. It shows like aromas and warming alcohol sensations are presentation. some pleasing oxidation alongside flavors of cara- mel and bready malt. also hallmarks of the style. Cheers! —John Holl abv: 14% Price: $26/500 ml

Sun King Johan Barleywine (Barrel-aged 92 Barleywine; Sun King Brewery, IN). Bursting with aromas of butterscotch and caramel, this dark Lakefront 2019 Black Friday Barleywine tobacco and decadent caramel. It goes down easier mahogany colored ale is sprightly in both its car- 97 (Barrel-­aged Barleywine; Lakefront Brewery, than the posted alcohol might suggest and a full bonation and flavor. Where some barleywines might WI). The strength of this barleywine is that it stands bottle empties quickly. be stodgy, this has life and lift to it, starting with tall on its own and the barrels only play a small role abv: 14.8% Price: $35/750 ml a slightly fudgy note all the way to a mild vanilla in the overall flavor. The wood is important, mind finish. you, and offers up the vanilla and spice components Springdale 2019 Grain Reaper (Barrel-aged abv: 10% Price: $20 /16 oz 2 pack that one expects from Bourbon barrels, but the base 95 Barleywine; Springdale Beer Co., MA). The beer offers tones of caramel, butterscotch and light color of rich caramel, this barleywine starts off with Burlington Beer Co. Mahogany & Tweed minerality. An annual release from the brewery a big, fluffy off-white head that dissipates quickly. It 88 (Barrel-aged Barleywine; Burlington Beer available on the day after Thanksgiving, this will shows some age from both the mature base beer as Co., VT). Thanks to a viscous mouthfeel, there is no age well over the next five years or can be consumed well as the wood it spent time in. Vanilla, oak and a mistaking the maple in here. Reminiscent of pan- immediately. wonderful spiciness mix with red berry, leather and cake breakfast syrup from a diner, this is a sticky, abv: 14.8% Price: $20/22 oz a whiff of wet tobacco. rustic ale, with a faint metallic note on the finish. It abv: 10.6% Price: $12/500 ml was aged in Cognac barrels. Cigar City Leon (Barrel-aged Barleywine; abv: 12% Price: $32 /16 oz 4 pack 96 Cigar City Brewing, FL). This is barleywine Cigar City Stakhanov’s Barleywine (Barrel- has a vinous background, thanks in part to the 94 aged Barleywine; Cigar City Brewing, FL). brandy barrels this was aged in. A special release Thick and nearly black in color, this barleywine from the brewery, it is dark brown in color, with no has many stout-like elements to it. A special, lim- discernable head and a big, boozy kick on the fin- ited release from the brewery in collaboration ish that swirls with notes of smooth leather, pipe with Three Weavers Brewing, this is full of savory

140 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020 berry flavor. A slight salty but dry finish makes this SOUR ALES FRUIT BEERS an easydrinking ale that calls to mind warm sum- mer afternoons. Community Simple Dry-Hopped Sour Ale Atlas Blood Orange Gose (Fruit Beer; Atlas abv: 4% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack 94 (Sour Ale; Community Beer Works, NY). This 95 Brew Works; Washington, D.C). With an sour is wonderfully refreshing, with a decidedly tart herbal thread that weaves between flavors of Key Knotted Root Thick Key Lime Pie Goo (Fruit profile. Notes of melon and pineapple mix together lime, vanilla and honey, this ale is right at home on 90 Beer; Knotted Root Brewing, CO). Imagine nicely but never stand center stage. It gives the a beach vacation. It is brewed with blood orange a decadent slice of Key lime pie that was pureed, brain a workout trying to tease out flavors and aro- and pink Himalayan salt, and both are also on dis- dosed with a little bit of booze and served in a glass. mas, making this anything but simple, but infinitely play with the meaty, assertive citrus character that This is that. From the citrus, to the vanilla, to the enjoyable. A mango flavor appears towards the end emerges halfway through the glass. The finish is tart graham cracker crust, it’s all here with just a slight of the sip, adding one last hit of topical enjoyment and sprightly. earthy pungency in the background. before the dry finish. abv: 4.4% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack abv: 5.6% Price: $20/16 oz 4 pack abv: 6.3% Price: $15/16 oz 4 pack Community Lemon Grass Cream Ale (Fruit New Jersey Beer Co. LBIPA (Fruit Beer; New By All Means Release 001 Sour (Berliner 93 Beer; Community Beer Works, NY). This ale 90 Jersey Beer Co., NJ). This IPA offers up 90 Weisse; By All Means, MT). This is a very is crisp and easydrinking, with an herbal citrus for- big tones of pink grapefruit and orange peel, with delicate ale that occasionally shows pricks of aggres- ward aroma and flavor. It’s beer that would be at intriguing accents of ginger and hibiscus. It plays sion. It shows flavors of honey and graham cracker, home along spicy Asian dishes, or just an afternoon well with the fruit flavors added and is just right for with a mouthwatering savoriness that drinks easy in the yard. Cream ales don’t always get a lot of love, on the bayside of the Jersey shore. but would likely be overwhelmed by most foods. It but they can be a great canvass for brewers. This is abv: 6.6% Price: $11/16 oz 4 pack is perfect for an adult refreshment after a long hike a fine example of a humble style getting a splash of to a camp site. creativity that ultimately benefits the drinker. Überbrew Pink Slip (Fruit Beer; Superlative abv: 4.4% Price: $14/16 oz 4 pack abv: 4% Price: $15/16 oz 4 pack 89 Beer, MT). A raspberry aroma is vibrant on the nose yet disappears on the palate. What remains Community That Yuzu IPA (Fruit Beer; Com- is a gluten reduced, fruit punch that doesn’t have PALE ALES 92 munity Beer Works, NY). This is a low alco- much beer character. Still, it’s refreshing and thirst hol IPA that lets the fruit shine without completely quenching—fine companion to brunch or garden Community Frank (American Pale Ale; Com- dominating the base beer. Intensely citrus forward, parties. 94 munity Beer Works, NY). This ale is grainy this is an enjoyable tart ale that drinks easy and abv: 5% Price:$12/16 oz 4 pack and chewy, with a soft malt character and vibrant refreshes in the process. A lime peel bitterness on pine aromas and flavors. It opens into some grape- the finish keeps the taste buds at attention and wel- Knotted Root Thick Fruit Salad Goo (Fruit fruit, orange peel and caramel tones as the glass comes a fresh sip. 87 Beer; Knotted Root Brewing, CO). This offers empties. It’s a pale ale that is just right for when the abv: 4.6% Price: $16/16 oz 4 pack a big aroma of Piña Colada fruit punch, with a soapy mood calls for something hoppy but not too hoppy. finish. It has a lot of puree in this that overwhelms abv: 4.6% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack Lakefront Pumpkin Lager (Fruit Beer; Lake- the base beer. Cherry, pineapple, mango and rasp- 91 front Brewery, WI). There’s no mistaking the berry, this is a turbid combination that. If slightly Atlas Dance of Days (American Pale Ale; pumpkin pie spice that dominates this lager. It’s frozen, would be just right for a tropical resort in 93 Atlas Brewing, Washington D.C.). This is a like having a slice of pie but in a glass. It shows peak season jaunty pale ale that shows a mellow hop character overwhelming aromas of allspice, clove, ginger and abv: 7.6% Price: $18/16 oz 4 pack and mineral twang. It doesn’t demand too much cinnamon that are mellowed on the palate and then attention from your tastebuds, lending itself to a wiped nearly clean by the finish, inviting another Veza Sur Mangolandia (Fruit Beer; Veza Sur, lazy afternoon on the patio with friends. sip to revive the fall classic. 85 FL). While the label boasts big flavors of abv: 5.7% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack abv: 6.3% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack mango, but they are tough to find. Rather this is big on a generic cotton candy sweetness, hints of can- Roadhouse Trout Whistle (Juicy/Hazy Pale White Lion Fight the Sour (Fruit Beer; White died cherry and even more sugar. 89 Ale; Roadhouse Brewing Co., WY). This 91 Lion Brewing, MA). Light purple in color, this abv: 4.8% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack pours a hazy golden yellow, with a low earthy hop is spicy and herbal tea forward, with some under- profile on the nose. It opens up to lemon balm, a ripe berry bitterness and tartness that finishes dry. little honey and an underbaked white bread grain Brewed with juniper, lemon juice and blackberry, it DOUBLE IPAS aroma. The body is watery and the carbonation is is an homage to a bramble cocktail and a perfectly medium. This would be a hoppy refresher after an suitable stand in. It’s a collaboration with Grist Flying Dog Tropical Truth (American Double afternoon of raking leaves. House Craft Brewery in Pittsburgh. 94 IPA; Flying Dog, MD). Vibrant aromas of abv: 5% Price: $16/12 oz 6 pack abv: 6.5% Price: $4/16 oz pineapple and coconut offer a warm welcome to this IPA that transports you to a warmer climate and a White Lion Pale Ale 2.0 (American Pale Ale; Dust Bowl Kash Crop Orange Mango (Fruit relaxing state of mind. It’s a showcase of what hops 87 White Lion Brewing, MA). This is orange peel 90 Beer; Dust Bowl Brewing, CA). Showing an and adjuncts can do to have a beer stand a little forward and grainy on the aroma, even a little earthy initial combination of ginger spice and vanilla, it taller than others in the category. It finishes with at times. It seems rooted in the British tradition but takes a little while for both the mango and orange a jaunty guava clap that carries through to the next has hints of modern double dry hopping done with a tones to appear in this beer. When they do, it’s with sip. Have this in place of a tiki cocktail. restrained hand. Lower carbonation than most, this a soda-like sweetness that is refreshing and even a abv: 8.7% Price: $14/12 oz 6 pack finishes with a slight pineapple bitterness. little crisp. abv: 6% Price: $13/ 16 oz 6 pack abv: 4.5% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack Lawson’s Hopzilla (American Double IPA; 94 Lawson’s Finest Liquids, VT). The hops are Saint Archer Blackberry Gose (Fruit Beer; a showcase here, with traditional pine, grapefruit 90 Saint Archer Brewing, CA). This pours a and dried citrus flavors and aromas. There is also bright, vibrant dusky pink and is big on a tart red- a boost from a strong malt content that is not shy

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BUYINGGUIDE about flavors of caramel, grape nuts and crusty spicy, peppery milk stout that uses a strong choco- bread. This is an old school IPA that is doing just late malt base to boost up the capsaicin from the fine in a modern hoppy world. peppers that are warming and a little fruity. Cin- abv: 8.7% Price: $15/16 oz 4 pack namon comes on strong after a few sips and helps bring some earthy character to the overall Mexican Lawson’s Triple Sunshine (American Impe- chocolate cake vibe. Not for the faint of heart, this 93 rial IPA; Lawson’s Finest Liquids, VT). This is beer is a fun experiment. a thick, hoppy, mouthcoating beer that grabs your abv: 9.5% Price: $13/12 oz 6 pack palate by the lapels, gives you a good shake and then still holds on for longer. It’s boozy, with flavors of Weathered Souls Black is Beautiful (Imperial pine resin, aged grapefruit peel and a delightful 91 Stout; Weathered Souls Brewing, TX). At first dankness. whiff, there is a bit of ash that comes across but that abv: 10.5% Price: $15/12 oz 4 pack quickly evolves to rich, spicy wet pipe tobacco. That is the flavor that stays until the last sip. There is Lawson’s Double Sunshine (American Double jasmine, chai and a warming herbal quality that is 91 IPA; Lawson’s Finest Liquids, VT). Smooth woven into the recipe of this beer, making it a slow and slightly tropical, with a pine twinge and herbal sipper rather than a quick pint at the bar. Likely to essence on the finish, this double IPA is made for be polarizing at a table of drinkers, this will favor bright sunlit afternoons where there is nothing on the bold. the agenda but to relax with another pint. abv: 10% Price: $24/16 oz 4 pack abv: 8% Price: $15/16 oz 4 pack Pure Pantera (Imperial Stout; Pure Brewing Iron Hill Double Kryptonite (American Double 91 Project, CA). Slightly spicy and a little sweet 91 IPA; Iron Hill Brewing, DE). Dark amber but with whiffs of oxidation, this oily stout would be clear, this double IPA is strong on natural autumnal a fine accompaniment to fresh oysters and steaks aromas of leaves, dried herbs and orange peel. It’s a off the grill, especially towards the later hours of fun, boozy sipper that fits in with a Sunday after- an evening. Brewed with coffee and coconut, it is noon at the pub (or home), when the home team earthy, sweet, thick and fun. is losing and you need something to brighten your abv: 12% Price: $26/22 oz mood. abv: 9.4% Price: $21/16 oz 4 pack East Brother Oatmeal Stout (Oatmeal 90 Stout; East Brother Brewing, CA). Thin, Shmaltz No Shtick (Hazy/Juicy American chocolaty and a little minerally, this has many easy 90 Double IPA; Shmaltz Brewing, NY). This is drinking qualities that make it a fine companion to a no-nonsense double dry hopped IPA that delivers an ordinary day of drinking. No frills, it offers a fine on familiar hop flavor and aroma and kicks you in balance between roasted and sweet notes. the liver while doing it. Mostly citrus heavy hops abv: 5.4% Price: $13/16 oz 4 pack give this beer a warming depth that feels at home with drinking at home in the cooler months. New Jersey Beer Co. Garden State Stout abv: 7.5% Price: $23/16 oz 4 pack 90 (Stout; New Jersey Beer Co., NJ). Slightly smoky and a lot of fun, this stout has depth and soul Knotted Root Perpetually Unimpressed in tones of chocolate and roast coffee. Low acidity 89 (Hazy/Juicy American Double IPA; Knotted and a pleasing sweetness mark the finish. It’s a stout Root Brewery, CO). This is hazy, murky straw col- for every day. ored, with a thick foamy head. Overall, it is thin and abv: 6.6% Price: $13/16 oz 4 pack watery, with some candied lemon, orange blossom a touch of mango juice. Hazy IPA fans will love it for its low hop bitterness and slight astringency on the finish. abv: 8.2% Price: $20/16 oz 4 pack

STOUTS

Atlas Silent Neighbor (Stout; Atlas Brew 95 Works, Washington, D.C.). This is a fun everyday stout that is rich, warming and easydrink- ing. It’s a fine accompaniment to a lunch out or a session during an evening around the firepit. It was brewed with molasses and rye, but won’t weigh you down with alcohol or body weight. It will tickle the taste buds with milk chocolate, a smooth coffee roast and a hint of vanilla bean. abv: 6.7% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack

Seventh Son Qahwah Spiced Imperial Stout 94 (Imperial Stout; Seventh Son, OH). This is a

142 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2020