November / DEcember 2013

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A Palatial Dream: Marrakech’s Royal Mansour Deconstructing Chaos: Beirut’s Reconstruction Alice Temperley and Her Grown Up Dresses Artistically Redefined: Net a Porter’s Art Capsul UAE 40AED QAR 40QAR KUW 3KWD Taymour Grahne’s New York Space BAH 4BHD OMAN 4OMR EUR 8.50EUR USA 11USD UK 7GBP LEB 16,000LBP JOR 7JOD EGY 65EGP 2 3 4 5 6 7 Damas Corporate Damas Corporate Masquerade Masquerade 30x48 EN 30x48 DPS.pdf EN DPS.pdf 1 11/12/13 1 11/12/13 5:09 PM 5:09 PM

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Editor In Chief Head of Strategic Planning, Rebecca Anne Proctor Sales and Business Development Naji Haddad Editorial Assistant Cassidy Hazelbaker Sales and Business Development Director Art direction Ayman Haddad Elle Moss and Aggie Bainbridge Sales and Business at Drew London Development Director Tarek Al-Kaaki Web Developer Mohammed Atalla Italy and Switzerland Sales Agent Gea Aprile distribution 14 15 Yaman Toutounji

Published by For all advertising queries Mediastar FZ-LLC contact Twofour54, P.O. Box 77898 [email protected] Abu Dhabi For all editorial queries UAE contact +971 2 234 6164 [email protected] ISSN 2226-1362 Official Partner and Advertising Representative Fierce International Printed by Dubai Internet City United Printing and Publishing, Abu Dhabi Business Central Tower A - 2803 P.O. Box 502979 Dubai UAE +971 4 4215455 Masquerademag.com fierce-international.com COntributors

Ellen Pearlman reports on the opening of Taymour Grahne’s eponymous space in New York’s Tribeca area as well as the gallery’s exhibition of works by Iranian artist Nicky Nodjoumi (page 148). A two-time finalist for the Andy Warhol/Creative Capital Arts Writers Grant, she helped establish The Brooklyn Rail, winner of the Andy Warhol/Creative Capital Publishing Grant. She is a member of The International Association of Art Critics and in the current edition of Who’s Who in America. She has written for Time Out Beijing, Yishu Magazine of Contemporary Asian Art, Art Asia Pacific, Sculpture Magazine, Hyperallergic, Leonardo Magazine and Furtherfield.org. London-based author Henry Hemming reviews Saudi artist Abdulnasser Gharem’s show at Ayyam Gallery’s London space in A Saudi Arabian Trickster (page 152). Hemming is the author of four books including Misadventure in the Middle East, In Search of the English Eccentric and Abdulnasser Gharem: 16 Art of Survival. He has written for The Times, The Washington Post, The Economist and The Financial In The Art of Detox (page 130) Times. henryhemming.com Laura Snook travels to Palace Merano in Italy to review Born in San Francisco and of Iranian origin, in From Chador to Fancy their renowned detox program. Clothes: Iranian Women’s Search for Identity Mojgon Davari writes Formerly a public relations and on the enforced Iranian chador and how Iranian women are making marketing accountant for Rawaj it more fashionable (page44). In 2003, Davari obtained a Bachelors International, Snook is now a degree in Fine Art from the Tehran University of Art and Architecture. dedicated freelance writer focusing She later obtained a Masters degree in Middle Eastern Studies from In Discovering Central Asian Art on health, travel and luxury hotels King’s College in London. A trained painter, Iranian artists such as (page 160) Lemma Shehadi around the world. She is also the Manouchehr Motabar, Hossein Maher and Shabboo Dejpour have explores the region’s burgeoning founder of Laura Kate Australia, a taught her throughout her studies. Davari was formerly a news writer landscape for Contemporary art. workout that blends yoga, Pilates at Iran’s Press TV and her writing has been published on presstv.com. The article is the result of her and dynamic exercise. Snook has She’s currently Assistant Director of JAMM Art Gallery in Alserkal exploration in the region this also contributed to Haute Living. Avenue in Al Quoz, Dubai. summer when she road-tripped London-based journalist Frankie Rozwadowska covers across Central Asia to explore the several topics regarding the psychological and physical benefits region’s art scene. Shehadi obtained of a good night’s sleep (page 138); The Power Of Positive her MA in Pan-Romanticism Thinking (page 140), the popular 5:2 Diet (page 136) and from the University of Warwick. fitness beauty products to assist one’s daily workout routine. She regularly writes for Apollo Rozwadowska graduated from the University of Nottingham magazine’s online publication in before working for the beauty department of Tom Ford. Now addition to The Independent and a freelance beauty writer, her work has been published in 1883 other publications in the UK and Magazine, Hip & Healthy, Beach Tomato and Condé Nast’s Middle East. Tatler magazine. She has also worked as a stylist for beauty shoots and high-end editorials.

Also writing in this issue are Annabel Treon, Sarah Bladen and Robert Codero. the Editor's Letter

In his Critique of Pure Reason, Immanuel Kant beautiful metropolis and the experience to wrote that “All knowledge begins with experience. be gained within, they can accept the beauty An experience, whether it is positive or negative, that comes from its perpetual contrasts. We becomes a driving force for our everyday actions incorporated the grace of warm and colorful and interactions with others. While we often coats, sleek dresses and garments from the condone what is bad and upsetting, it is often latest fall and winter fashions into the streets of through what is ugly and uncomfortable that Marrakech, while rich and elegant fabrics further we develop and become more aware of our true accentuated the opulence of the majestic Royal selves. What often appears as failure might Mansour hotel. 18 19 be seen as half a success - for without this experience, we’d be farther away from forging the Experience comes when contrasts meet. This way to achieve our goals. As Thomas Edison once idea can also be found in features such as wrote, “Many of life’s failures are people who did Deconstructing Chaos, which explores Beirut’s not realize how close they were to success when reconstruction - an ongoing process that seeks they gave up.” Failure is thus a part of succeeding to maintain the city’s historic buildings, often and our experiences are what drive us to reason despite their references to the country’s many with what does and doesn’t work. wars, as well as build modern high rises. It is also explored in an article regarding the Iranian Experience is also about confronting the chador that investigates how designers in Iran unknown. The highlight of this issue’s photo are making this compulsory headdress more shoots is Marrakech. A city of contrasts, the dirt fashionable thus turning what is seemingly and the glamour of this intriguing North African an object signaling restraint into something metropolis are constantly juxtaposed. One walks beautiful. The creations of designers such as down a dusty street full of hustling vendors, Alice Temperley, Paul Ka and Emirati Madiyah their colorful djellabas often tarnished with a Al-Sharqi illustrate our fashion pages and bit of sand as they sell trinkets, food and other provide us with a glimpse into their artistic vision miscellaneous items, while just a bit away are the influenced by a variety of eras, cultures and glistening towers of stunning Moroccan palaces contemporary culture. They ultimately strive to full of an Oriental richness that one reads of in replicate how to dress the modern woman - one books. Western pop music can often be heard who is confronted with the task of playing many in contrast with popular Arabic songs signaling roles, more so than ever before. once again a vibrant contrast between what is modern and traditional. Experience is preserved by memory. These uncomfortable contrasts, difficult situations and The rough and chaotic scenes that one edginess that we all confront are encapsulated experiences in Marrakech can be just as repelling forever in time by how we remember. After as they are intriguing. The edginess of the city all, the truth of an experience lies in how one can easily give rise to feelings of instability and perceives it - in how one reacts to it. And so, bewilderment as the traveler finds him or herself the knowledge that Kant wrote of, is solidified in unfamiliar and uncomfortable situations. But through experience. Positive or negative, it all this is part of the city’s charm. Once one learns becomes just a memory - a moment in life’s to embrace the madness that is this vibrantly journey. Letters to the Editor

Dear Editor, I enjoyed reading about Ahd Kamel’s film Sanctity. I don’t speak Arabic so I wouldn’t be able to understand the film but I am interested in women’s roles in Middle Eastern society and it sounds like this has made a big impact. Thanks for keeping us in the loop! Emma, London

Dear Emma, We’re so glad that you enjoyed reading about this outstanding film. At Masquerade we love to feature the most inspiring stories from both East and West to bridge cultures and build mutual understanding. We’ll definitely keep you updated with future initiatives!

Dear Editor, I was pleasantly surprised to see the article about in vitro fertilization in your last issue. Difficulty conceiving is an issue faced by 20 many couples in this region but due to the private nature of local culture, it is not talked about much even if the attitude towards the procedure is becoming more accepting. It is nothing to be ashamed of and I was happy to see Masquerade was initiating a discussion on the subject matter. Sara, Dubai

Dear Sara, As you mentioned, difficulty conceiving is a problem faced both in the Middle East and abroad, and we hope that by Dear Editor, shedding light on procedures I read your article on Youssef Nabil on the offered locally we can inform Masquerade Magazine website. Nabil’s words hit readers of options they may be home to me as I am a Syrian artist residing in wondering about but are too shy the US. I found many parallels between Nabil’s to discuss publicly. Although mentality and my own. Syria is always present in my IVF is not for everyone and is work. Especially within the context of the current known as a quite controversial conflict, death is a subject that constantly reappears procedure, it offers the in my painting. Thank you for highlighting artists possibility of having the baby from the region. Samir, New York many so desperately seek. Dear Samir, Thank you for your words. Youssef Nabil is an inspirational artist whose work encompasses many poignant subjects from his experiences inside and outside of Egypt. Personal transformation is a theme that is applicable to us all as is death. We are constantly changing and adapting to the world around us and Youssef Nabil Self-portrait With Roots. Los Angeles. 2008. Hand-coloured gelatin silver print. with this we are also learning to come to terms with the Image courtesy The Third Line, Dubai. meaning of our own existence. contents Masquerade Magazine ISSUE 9

SOUK FASHION LUXE List 26 Royal Serenade 92 Must Have: North African Adventure 102 Ralph Lauren Soft Ricky Bag 30 Cinematic Tales 110 Good Luxe: GUCCI’s Chime for Change 32 Good Luxe: Furla Foundation MAde in Italy 34 SURRENDER Beauty Bazaar: FItness 126 UNMASKED The Art of Detox 130 A New Journey in Scent 134 Behind the veil: An Original Disposition 38 THE FAST Diet 136 Avant-Garde Abayas 40 Sleeping Beauty 138 From Chador to Fancy Clothes 44 The Power of Positivity 140 Deconstructing Chaos 48 Enchantment

22 DECADENCE Artistically Redefined 144 23 Watches: Fairytale Sparkles 54 coming of age in New York 148 Fantasy Jewels 56 A Saudi Arabian Trickster 152 Treasure TROVE 58 From Les Russes with Love 156 An artistic fusion 60 A Central Asian Fixation 160

EXPRESSION SERENDIPITY City Style: animal instincts 64 A Palatial Dream 166 Alice Temperley and Jet set Marrakech 170 her Grown-Up Dresses 70 Kyoto calling 174 Paule Ka: Taking a Bow 74 On Truth 178 EDGY and EXPERIMENTAL: Madiyah Al-Sharqi 78 Diary of a Fashion Buyer 80 A Simplistic Turn 82 Modern Wares for Modern Women 84 A Fascination with the Faraway 86 Fall Trends Simplistic Glamour 88

FRONT COVER Photography Greg Adamski Dress VIONNET at Saks Fifth Avenue Styling Dresscode by Farah Necklace VENNA at Sauce Makeup Toni Malt Shoes JIMMY CHOO Hair style Eddie Sanyer Model Aida @MMGEventz

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LUXE List Must Have: Ralph Lauren Soft Ricky Bag Good Luxe: GUCCI’s Chime for Change Good Luxe: Furla Foundation MAde in Italy LUXE List

Our selection of inspirational items.

By Cassidy Hazelbaker

2013 Vespa 946 Marc by Marc Jacobs Atkinsons Jarre AeroSystem One Many Middle Eastern cities are known for their Umbrella Perfume Range by Lalique Speakers traffic congestion but with the limited edition Winter raindrops don’t stand a chance against For over 200 years, Atkinsons has been After four years of research and development, 2013 Vespa 946, you can zip through traffic the this chic Marc by Marc Jacobs umbrella. perfecting perfumes for the highest echelons of Jarre Technologies has devised a unique, studio- Italian way. A quintessential Italian icon, the Featuring a durable dome covered in an uplifting British society. Influenced by the quintessential quality state-of-the-art sound system for use Vespa is both a means of transportation and a geometric pattern formed from soothing shades English manners, traditions and heritage, the at home. The speaker unit is composed of two piece of art. Designed with reference to the of blue, the umbrella conveniently pops into place Emblematic, Legendary and Home collections directional speakers and a box beam, and accepts earliest prototypes with amentities such as ABS with the click of a button on the handle. The feature striking fragrances fit for a queen. For all digital formats. It is compatible with iPhones braking, ASR traction control and a 4 stroke collapsible umbrella closes into a portable pouch the first time, this olfactory genius is available in and iPods and also contains a USB port. The 26 27 125cc monocylinder engine, the Vespa touts low that can easily fit into a handbag. the Middle East, with a range of products from exterior of the speaker is decorated by Lalique consumption and reduced emissions. marcjacobs.com perfumes, eau de toilettes and candles. crystal that features the iconic Art-Deco style vespa.com Available at Bloomingdale’s Dubai Masque de Femme motif. Longchamp jarre.com Valentino Gloves With autumn and winter comes traveling to cold Pois Clutch architect of dreams The Longchamp Pois clutch adds a pop of Architect of Dreams, written by Jeromine Savignon Charlotte Olympia weather climates, and these Valentino gloves are 60’s-inspired retro color to any outfit. Composed and Gilles de Bure, is a recently released volume just the trick to keeping your hands warm in Glitter Kitty Heels of a velvet cotton body and trimmed in patent from luxury Publisher Assouline. It chronicles These flats are the most stylish sparkling shoes cool temperatures. Crafted from fine black and calfskin, the clutch is lightweight, with a black La Mode en Images, the firm which produced since Dorothy’s red slippers. Charlotte Olympia’s beige leather, these ‘rockstar’ gloves are at once nickel snap fastening the upper flap. The graphic many of the luxury world’s most imaginative and iconic kitty motif is incorporated into this flat, provocative and feminine. The studded straps design is loud and bold, with layers of overlapping complex fashion shows and events, from Dior to which features a small heel to put a little spring fasten with an adjustable buckle to make sure black, white, cream and either fuchsia or cumin Yves Saint Laurent to Cartier. The book follows in your step while remaining ultra-comfortable. they fit snugly and keep the cold out. colored dots endlessly filling the bag’s exterior. the creative process from design dreams through The pink glitter motif makes these a great valentino.com longchamp.com to implementation. conversation starter, and are a chic way to update assouline.com your daytime ensemble or a fun alternative to heels at night. Available at Harvey Nichols Dubai Carrera y Carrera Serpiente Bracelet In honor of 2013, year of the snake, Carrera y Carrera has introduced a new bracelet to its Bestiario collection. The Serpiente bracelet portrays the battle of two golden snakes, intricately intertwined and differentiated only by the line of white diamonds running the length of one snake while brown diamonds line the back of the other. The bracelet is a tribute to the sculptural origins of the brand. carreraycarrera.com Tod’s Limited Edition Sunglasses

Tod’s new limited edition unisex sunglasses channel the elegant simplicity which is iconic of the brand. A sleek, contemporary take on a design from the 60s, the glasses are made from acetate with glass lenses. They are available in tortoiseshell brown, mustard yellow and light blue, and come with a color coordinated case to keep them safe and scratch-free when being stored. tods.com

EBEL Quartz watch Messika Maharadja Ivanka Trump Versace Bright Akillis Puzzle EBEL recently introduced the oversized Necklace Metropolis Bracelet Crystal Perfume Toi & Moi Ring 36mm Onde timepiece, which is sophisticated, Messika’s statement-making Maharadja Inspired by New York City, where Ivanka grew Contained within a bottle showcasing the At once creative and elegant, the Akillis Puzzle feminine and simple. The newest addition to necklace has been redesigned, without the pear up, this bangle is part of the Metropolis line, the brilliance of cut glass, Versace’s newest fragrance Toi & Moi ring is a new take on the quirky the Onde family, the watch is set in polished in the middle. The necklace is composed of first of four within her new Journey collection. Bright Crystal is made for a poised and bold between-the-finger ring. Featuring two puzzle stainless steel and features a Swiss quartz seven pendants, aligned gracefully around the Designed with 1920’s art deco in mind, the woman. The scent is at once crisp and floral and pieces - one in polished white gold and the other movement. The mother-of-pearl dial is protected wearer’s neck. Each pendant contains small sleek band of the bracelet is made in 18-carat features notes of pomegranate, lotus, magnolia, encrusted with small pavé diamonds set in white by anti-reflective sapphire crystal, while the pear-shaped diamonds, with a rim of delicate yellow gold and slips elegantly onto the wrist. peony, and yuzu. A final note of amber and musk gold, the pieces adorn the hand without touching crown is set with 18 diamonds. Additionally, the diamonds encircling them. The collar is crafter Small diamonds line the rim of the bangle and add a delicate oriental dimension. each other. This missing piece may be the right 28 29 watch is water resistant to 50 meters. from white gold and contains 66.21 carats of come together in the middle, forming the Greek versace.com fit in your jewelry collection! ebel.com diamonds in total. key IT symbol which is the trademark of the akillis.fr messika-joaillerie.com collection. Valentino Sunglasses MCM Bag Available at Bloomingdale’s Dubai Add a touch of dark mystique to your ensemble Louis Vuitton W Bag One of latest releases from MCM, this blue Miller Harris with the new rockstud sunglasses from Louis Vuitton’s latest design, the W bag, has a satchel is the perfect accessory for the business Rose en Noir Candle Alberto Moretti Valentino. These shades are vintage-inspired three-part body which recalls the angles of the woman on the go, with both handle and shoulder and give a punch of attitude as well as an Throw yourself full force into autumn with 24-Carat Gold Shoes letter W. The geometric shape is both elegant strap available to carry it as you like. Textured intriguing texture to any stylish outfit. The this deep, dark fragrance from Miller Harris. Presented at the Monte Carlo Grand Prix, the and trendy. Contrasting fine leather with the leather and gold metal hardware update this rouge version is crafted from red acetate and Heavy notes of Turkish rose, pepper and violet first ever 24-carat gold and velvet high heels traditional and iconic Louis Vuitton monogram, classic style in a modern way. Its light weight features 464 small red crystals and two larger dominate the base of ambrette, patchouli and have arrived in the Middle East and are available the bag is a youthful take on a great classic. The ensures it won’t burden the wearer, even when studs on either side of the frames, while the noir tabac noir, and are complemented by light notes exclusively at Level Shoe District in the Dubai interior contains multiple pockets in which all filled with papers or accessories. version is made from black acetate and contains of coriander and cumin. Utterly oriental, this Mall. These unique pumps are designed by the your daily accessories can be organized. mcmworldwide.com 300 small crystals and 277 studs. mysterious and charming perfumed candle will Tuscan Alberto Moretti in collaboration with louisvuitton.com valentino.com scent your home and provide cozy candlelight by shoemakers HORO, and consist of simple, which to dine or relax. elegant lines to complement the gold coat. Avaialble at Bloomingdale’s Dubai albertomoretti.com Must Have: Ralph Lauren Soft Ricky Bag

By Cassidy Hazelbaker

Ralph Lauren’s new take on its iconic Ricky bag retains the elegance and simplicity of the original while incorporating an updated and softer element.

Autumn sees a return to routine after the carefree, relaxed summer holiday. An accessory to brighten the shorter, darker days is the timeless Ralph Lauren Soft Ricky bag, which is the 30 31 more comfortable, lightweight, slouchy update to the classic Ricky bag. Made from supple, durable nappa calfskin, the bag also features custom-crafted hardware. The top rim of the bag softly arcs, with a sturdy handle that allows the tote to be hand-held or worn on the shoulder. Two buckles on either side can secure the side panels for a sharper look, or left unfastened to lean out on either side, giving the bag its soft form from which its name is derived.

Either way, the bag is a reliable staple for the autumn and winter months. It is available in fuscia pink, clementine, lime green, red and lemon for those who like bright accessories, and white, navy, and gold for those who prefer more neutral tones.

ralphlauren.com Available at Harvey Nichols Dubai. Good Luxe:

funding platform dedicated to women. People Other strategic partners working with Gucci Crowd funding is all can simply go online and choose from a variety to ensure the project goes forth are the Kering the rage these days, and of education, health and justice-oriented Foundation for Women’s Dignity and Rights, Gucci has chosen it as the projects, choosing from 28 sub-topics such Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation, Hearst as child brides, maternal health or human Magazines, Facebook, and The Huffington motor behind their latest trafficking to find a project that resonates with Post, among others. philanthropic venture, them. All projects have been carefully screened Chime for Change. Cassidy by Catapult to make sure they are legitimate In order to involve more people in the Chime Hazelbaker investigates. and sound. Each project has a goal amount of for Change campaign, Gucci organized The money and followers can track the percentage Sound of Change Live charity concert, which of progress towards the project’s goal amount. took place on 1 June at London’s Twickenham Once an initiative has been funded, the project stadium. Beyonce, Ellie Goulding, Florence provides follow-up reports to donors who can and the Machine, Jay Z, Jennifer Lopez, John then see the change their projects have made Legend, Mary J Blige, Rita Ora, Timbaland and Crowd funding: a platform that allows individuals within the local community. many others performed. The 50,000 attendees to donate small amounts of money to a cause were able to donate the cost of their ticket to the which interests them. The idea is that when spare Fully funded projects include the Afghanistan project of their choice. Overall a total of $3.9 change, which is nearly inconsequential to an Institute for Learning’s reproductive health million was raised through ticket sales, online individual, is collected en masse, it can become a workshops, which educates women who then donations and mobile giving, supporting 210 meaningful amount in support of a cause. Gucci relay the information to their families and projects in 81 different countries. has under gone a more traditional approach to communities, for which over $3,000 was raised fundraising and has adopted this dynamic and between four supporters, and Awakening: Many luxury philanthropy ventures depend on modern method to further their philanthropic Women on the Frontlines of the Arab Spring, celebrities and corporate sponsors to raise funds ventures. “Gucci has a long history of supporting an initiative to fund a documentary about at big events, or require purchasing a luxury women, and we know that the solutions exist women who were involved in protests, for which item in order to give back. Gucci’s Chime for all around us. There are hundreds of credible, $50,000 was raised between five supporters. Change allows anyone to get involved, as there dedicated organizations around the world is no minimum requirement for donations. The There are many initiatives focusing on the online donation method is straight-forward and 32 actively supporting the advancement of girls and 33 women,” said Frida Giannini, Creative Director Middle East. Some initiatives focus on urgent highly accessible, making it very simple to chime for Gucci. “My vision for Chime for Change was aid, such as funding for the Doctors of the for change in the world. GUCCI’s Chime for

to facilitate further awareness and fundraising by World office in Qah, Syria, which provides bringing together a global community to support medical services to Syrian refugees, while some the important work that is already happening.” focus on long-term approaches, such as Rights Change in the Aftermath of the Arab Uprisings, which By Cassidy Hazelbaker Chime for Change was established in February supports a conference and workshops for Islamic All images courtesy of Gucci. 2013 by Salma Hayek Pinault, Beyonce, and feminists and activists who want to preserve Gucci’s Chime for Change is an ongoing effort; Frida Giannini, with a mission to promote women’s representation and gender equality in visit Catapult.org to donate to your project education, health and justice to every woman. post-uprising governments. of choice. Gucci partnered with Catapult, the first crowd chimeforchange.org Good Luxe:

Giovanna Furlanetto speaks about Furla Foundation’s influence in the art scene, its various initiatives, and the influence aspiring artists have on established luxury design Furla Foundation: houses. Cassidy Hazelbaker reports.

MAde in Italy Marina Abramovic sits in a white long-sleeved Furla Foundation has sponsored a variety of blouse, speaking evenly in measured phrases. The exhibitions and events through the years. In Serbian-born ‘grandmother of performance art’ addition to The Abramovic Method, 2013 has describes the experience between a performance seen the exhibition I Did Not Say Or Mean artist and observers in a documentary titled ‘Warning’ by Chiara Fumai and curated by Stefano By Cassidy Hazelbaker The Abramovic Method. The screening of this Collicelli Cagol, in order to explore the absence documentary on 30 August at the Venice Days of the feminine subject in history through video section of the 70th Venice Film Festival was the performances and was located at Fondazione latest initiative put forth by Fondazione Furla, the Querini Stampalia. who are struggling to find backing can cross in philanthropic branch of the Italian luxury design order to establish themselves on the art scene. house Furla. The Accademie Eventuali is a workshop “I think the exchange between art and fashion project focusing on fine arts students from offers precious ideas and inspiration that can be Established in 2008, the Foundation furthers and Italian academies. A joint effort between Furla translated into design. Creativity, inventiveness supports the Furla Art Award, which was created Foundation, Carisbo Foundation, MAMbo gallery and originality are what really matters and young in 2000. Giovanna Furlanetto, the President of and Xing, the workshops take place in Palazzo artists have a much more far-sighted and dynamic Furla, set up the foundation in order to further Pepoli Vecchio and allow selected students to learn vision of the future compared to the fashion promote cultural projects in Italy and abroad. As from renowned artists to explore the dynamic city system players,” says Furlanetto. “What was born an Italian, art and design were always important around them through various artistic mediums. as a pure patronage initiative also became a new 34 to Furlanetto on a personal level and as part of her chance for the company in terms of talent, and 35 heritage. When asked about the state of art and The Furla Talent Hub project promotes aspiring we greatly benefited from the perspective and the situation of emerging artists in contemporary designers by giving them the opportunity to create aesthetic of the artists.” A win-win situation for Italy, Furlanetto replies, “unfortunately our their own collection under the Furla brand. Up- everyone involved. Benissimo! country doesn’t invest in art, as it should, and-coming designers see their line displayed in a especially considering its time-honored tradition top luxury design house, while Furla profits from and cultural richness. Italy doesn’t really reflect the fresh ideas of new designers. Many of Furla the precious history of patronage and commitment Foundation’s projects are joint collaborations with Furla is available in the UAE at Mall of the inherited from the past. Today, above all, the other influential organizations in the fields of Emirates, Mirdiff City Centre, and Galeries independent activity of companies, institutions art and design, which increases the foundation’s Lafayette, The Dubai Mall. and private foundations represents the only way ability to reach artists from different fields. For more information visit fondazionefurla.org to support contemporary artists and talents who would otherwise have very few opportunities to Influential in the Furla Foundation alongside emerge and express their creativeness.” Furla Furlanetto is Chiara Bertola, who is the curator of Foundation and the Furla Art Award thus fill a both the Furla Art Award and Querini Stampalia. void in the promotion of the arts in Italy. “Through “She has a wide artistic and cultural knowledge this initiative I try to do something useful and and she’s very close to young and emerging talents. beautiful for a country that has given so much in Since the very beginning, we have worked side by the past and where the success of the company side at this initiative to promote and support the itself is deeply rooted,” she continues. Italian Contemporary art scene at the international level,” says Furlanetto. The foundation is comprised of several initiatives: The Furla Art Award, various exhibitions and Furla as a brand is based in Bologna and takes pride events, Accademie Eventuali, and the Furla Talent in its commitment to being 100 percent Italian. Hub. The Art Award, which is a collaboration Characterized by its uncompromising quality and between Unicredit Group, Querini Stampalia, craftsmanship, the brand is entrepreneurial and MAMbo gallery and Furla, is given every year to forward thinking. Leveraging its rich heritage, promote an emerging artist who works in any of a Furla is a global example of elegance, refinement variety of mediums, from photography to painting and style. Though Furla is a key player in the to performance. luxury goods market, the Furla Foundation creates a bridge on which aspiring artists and designers

Above: Picture of people laying on reclining Above & Below: Portrait of Maria Abramovic. Photography chairs performing the Abramovic Method. by Laura Ferrari. Portrait of Giovanna Furlanetto. Photography by Laura Ferrari. Both images courtesy Fondazione Furla. Image courtesy Fondazione Furla. 36 UNMASKED 37

behind the veil: An Original Disposition Avant-Garde Abayas From Chador to Fancy Clothes Deconstructing Chaos It has been said that imitation is the sincerest it be a clear morning, an angry conversation, form of flattery, but what’s sincere about or a glimpse of a stranger crossing the street. imitating an individual to the point where Inspiration is there, everywhere, why does it you strip them of their own originality? What have to be coming from or limited to a certain happened to flattery being direct and clear? person’s work? Behind the Veil: I believe some people use that as an excuse to justify their weak act of imitation. Flatter In the art world, we started by learning the someone by listening to their opinions and by basics; painting a master study and admiring understanding and appreciating them, by asking the techniques of the great minds that came them for help. Not by taking away what makes before us. We were eventually taught to look them their original self and applying it to your up to those who made great changes in our own personality. Be direct, perhaps inspired, current art world; the daring, the conceptual, but do not think, justify, or mistake any act of and the unusual artists. We were asked to find imitation as flattery. inspiration in what they did, their techniques, An Original their concepts, and the impact they left in All of us are actively trying to reach the goals Modern art. But no inspiration ever crossed we set. However, each individual has their own as complete imitation, instead we understood way of achieving success. As humans, we need their works, and created something that was Disposition to know that we have reached a place that fills us completely original. To be inspired by someone, with pride. We work, think, write, create art, and is to hold their individuality in great respect. go through our daily lives hoping for something at the end of the line. That makes me think, Individuality begins with understanding is success contagious? If one person becomes yourself, appreciating your differences and successful, do others feel intimidated by that delving into the uniqueness that you own. Who By Al Meem success? Maybe the success of one person puts a are you? Think about your beliefs, personal target on their back to be imitated. It seems like opinions, and actions towards anything you the easy way out, and some imitators achieve come across; think about what makes you who quick success by copying someone and possibly you are. Let go of all the people you want to Al Meem discusses the complexities editing out the mistakes. be, the people you consider as idols, and and risks of creative imitation. concentrate on yourself. No two people are Having been in the art and design world for a the same. I truly believe that every person is 38 39 few years now, I have gained insight into the an original, a creative soul, which may have motives of imitators, and believe me, it is an lost its way seeking perfection. People need easy lifestyle. It seems that imitators are those to understand that perfection is not an ideal who fail in finding their own sense of self and thought or a simple place to reach. Perfection is are looking for the easiest way out: by copying obtained by accepting what makes you different other people. It begins by finding someone they and celebrating it. admire, someone who has spent a fair share of their own time discovering them, understanding The best way to avoid imitation is to find the and appreciating their own being, and ends in courage to deal with life as it comes. Wake up in imitation. Imitators step on other people for the morning with a little bit of ambition, some their own personal improvement; they start determination and a lot of dedication. Believe by imitating personal traits, specific behavior, in yourself and the beauty you can bring to life, style, looks, and even specific works! They do whether it was in a creation of art, a beautiful not consider what efforts, thoughts and passion letter, the way you dress, or a successful career each individual puts into their work. Through in design. One needs to focus on a path of their this insight, I found that imitators are divided choice, start at a slow pace and follow through. into two kinds: those who mistake imitating and Admire the success of others, be inspired by copying with inspiration, and those who choose their devotion and passion and concentrate on to imitate aiming for personal success regardless how successful you can be. There is no need of their knowledge and neglecting the damage to be distracted by others: stop comparing. In to be caused in the process. most cases comparing yourself to others could lead to the desire to imitate. Leave aside the It seems that most of the imitators are what comparison and come up with something new, we call nowadays “inspired people.” There has innovative and original. There is no need to fear always been a vague line between “inspired” criticism, it only makes you stronger. Challenge and “copied.” Nowadays, many people do not your mind into being innovative and original by understand the difference. Being inspired can being yourself. lead to great works, amazing outcomes, and unlimited creativity. Inspiration can be found Share your thoughts by dropping me a line at View of woman with head cover viewing Sheikh Zayed grand mosque. in every single aspect of our daily lives, whether [email protected] Photography by Grant Faint. Image courtesy Getty Images. Ava n t-Ga r de

Abayas principle part little; we just barely made enough to cover the of Arabic cultural and religious dress, many rent.” She and her Chinese partner would go to By Rebecca Anne Proctor sources date the appearance of the abaya to clients’ homes to take their orders and would Apre-Islamic times in the 3rd century AD. then come back to their rented space and design Traditionally a long black robe-like garment the clothes. worn by women in the Arabian Peninsula and many parts of the Islamic world, today many The new Abaya Arabic designers are giving the abaya a more Al-Madani explains how in the beginning, she contemporary and feminine look. Emirati Sara and her partner were just taking orders and Al-Madani is one such designer. Her graceful creating as they went along. “We started with Sara Al-Madani’s abayas merge silhouettes and refined lines are combined a few clients and then the circle grew,” she says. western modernism with the classic with more edgy components of leather, lace and By the second year, she stopped taking orders design of the female Islamic dress. risqué cuts endowing her abayas with an avant- and began creating her own trends instead of At once edgy and seductive, Al-Madani’s garde character that liberates the wearer. just listening to the demands of other women. The business grew to around 35 staff and three abayas are determined to marry the Al-Madani’s infatuation with fashion began branches. Her avant-garde designs became 40 traditional with the progressive. when she was a teenager. Creative and much sought after. 41 Rebecca Anne Proctor meets Al-Madani determined, the designer, now 27, was raised to in Dubai to learn about what it means believe that if you want to achieve something, Even so, it is hard to create something global you must do it for yourself. Encouraged by her while also retaining the heritage and the “I wanted to to take a fashionable risk. parents, she set out to start her own business. In tradition of the Islamic female dress. Al- 2005, her hard work paid off and she launched Madani’s abayas incorporate leather belts, metal mix tradition with modern her own fashion label, Rouge Couture. The spikes, elaborate head dresses, masks and rich fashion in a different way, name of her brand reflects the bold style of embroidery - many elements of which have never a way that will make a woman the women who wear her creations. “I wanted before been incorporated into an abaya. She has look trendy and fashionable a name that would be appealing to women often been called the “abaya engineer” in the and the word “rouge” is catchy and familiar in market for the meticulous ways in which she while wearing traditional every language,” she explains. “It means red in creates her designs. “I just do abayas, nothing and modest pieces.” French, but also “lipstick” - it’s very feminine else,” she says. “But they are not your traditional and alluring.” Bold and fiery like the color red, abayas. My designs marry the history of the Sara Al-Madani Al-Madani’s couture designs are about mixing abaya with modern fashion. This has been very eastern and western fashion tendencies. “I hard to do.” wanted to mix tradition with modern fashion in a different way, a way that will make a woman Al-Madani doesn’t have a degree in fashion. look trendy and fashionable while wearing Her studies were in film making. F“ ashion is traditional and modest pieces,” she says. also a film,” she says. I“ t is also about imagining something and giving it life - enabling it to The beginning wasn’t easy. She initially had a move.” The creation of her designs involves Chinese partner who would often go abroad first drawing and sketching. She then makes and sell electronics to get extra cash, while Al- what she calls “the first draft” followed by the Madani sold several items that she owned. “I final piece. The process can take anywhere from sold my own stuff to start the business,” she several hours to days of work. “I love drawing says. “But in just a few months we managed something and then bringing it to life; I love to get 20-25,000 AED.” This was just enough being a trendsetter,” she says. “Being a part of to rent a small place in Sharjah. “It was in the the fashion industry itself is just as amazing as middle of nowhere - in a construction area, but it fun and challenging.” Her favorite designer is it was a start,” she recalls. “Our income was very unsurprisingly, Alexander McQueen. One can “I want to take religion out of the equation. It’s not about religion at all, I create something and how someone wants to wear it is up to them.”

Sara Al-Madani

see the resemblance of the late artist’s edgy yet elegant creations mirrored through her own work; he also took fashionable risks. “He is a true creator and my mentor,” she says.

Pushing Boundaries Her abayas push cultural boundaries in an often uncomfortable way. Al-Madani has often received criticism for damaging traditional Islamic dress. “I’m not,” she protests. “These people think that the abaya is a religious symbol and it is not. Religion is about covering the hair

42 and the body. What you cover yourself with has 43 nothing to do with it.” Such adamant beliefs come at a time when the Gulf is undergoing rapid development. There seems to be a constant fight to converse one’s cultural heritage, while Al-Madani’s accomplishments go beyond If we can set a healthy set of standards, then also modernizing to mirror the progression of the realm of fashion. She has been elected Dubai surely can become one of the leading the region. Such new takes on women’s cultural as an ambassador to represent the Sharjah capitals for fashion in the world.” and religious dress are often difficult to swallow Business Woman Council. She was elected for those desiring to fight for things to stay as an example to women who aspired to start The future looks bright for Al-Madani. Her the same. “I want to take religion out of the their own business and who possessed a desire great hope is for her brand to be distributed equation. It’s not about religion at all,” says Al- for entrepreneurship. Al-Madani has also been worldwide. “I want my designs and the abaya Madani. “I create something and how someone honored as the Brand Ambassador for Natura tradition to be accessible to people around wants to wear it is up to them.” A case-in-point Bissé in the Middle East, a luxury skincare spa the world,” she says. Creating something is was when she saw someone wearing one of her brand from Barcelona, Spa. Her key task in never easy. “Fashion is a challenging industry. “Fashion is a transparent dresses meant to cover a wedding this role is once again to educate young women You either make it, or you’re pushed aside and challenging industry. dress out in Dubai over other clothes in a more about the importance of self-confidence in forgotten,” says Al-Madani. “It’s a jungle and You either make it, or you’re seductive fashion. “This was the woman’s order to achieve business success. Other awards you need to survive through your art.” Rouge choice,” she says. include L’Officiel’s Young Designer of the Year couture, like Al-Madani, is about “daring to pushed aside and forgotten. Award in 2012 and Emirati Entrepreneur of the wear” - it is about crossing boundaries, mixing It’s a jungle and you need The young designer thus takes the traditional Year Award from SME Stars of Business Awards heritage with modernity and not being afraid to to survive through black of the abaya and tries to make something in 2011. She continues to be a guiding source wear what you feel - and this is the message that your art.” creative out of it. “The culture and personality of inspiration for women in the UAE eager to is transmitted beautifully through her fashion

of the abaya is black; it can never be another foster their creativity. designs. Sara Al-Madani color,” she says. “I don’t like colors, so I stick to cuts,” she says. Every month Al-Madani creates The avant-garde designs of Al-Madani come a new collection while most designers create at a time when Dubai is gaining ground in only three collections per year, for the seasons the international fashion industry. The young of winter, summer and Eid. Her creativity leads designer is harsh in terms of what the region the way; it is her drive as is her desire to give needs in order to get to the next level. “What back to her culture through something that we are lacking are the fashion critics,” she says. opens the way to fashionable innovation. We need constructive criticism in order to grow. For more information visit rouge-couture.com From Chador to Fancy Clothes

he Islamic establishment also been reported when women resist arrest, By Mojgon Davari in Iran may be intensifying a campaign of provoking female police officers to drag the By Mojgon Davari imposing more restrictions on the dress code culprits into security vans, and then take them Ttolerated by the hard liners, but women in Iran to police stations. are facing a challenge of their own: bright colors, chic clothes, high heels and fanciful jewellery Tina, 27, says she was arrested in 2007 in a - in what can be deemed as a silent revolution main square in central Tehran even though she of dumping the black, featureless, head-to-toe was accompanied by her family. “I was wearing chador covering the whole body except hands a medium-length manteau and very light make- In the past decade, however, and face, and manteau introduced in the 80’s, up. I thought I was safe hijab-wise,” she says. “A Iranian women have faced a and replacing them with vibrant and design woman with a black chador jumped out of the outfits in the course of the past decade. van and told me to get in. I was shocked. I asked new challenge in a unit called her to explain what exactly was wrong with ‘Morality Police’ The radical change is seen as an unwelcome my attire, but she did not answer and instead - frequently patrolling guest for the regime, but it is not unprecedented tried to force me into the van. When I resisted, the streets in Iran, even in for Iranian women who in the past 100 years she called her colleague to help her drag me in 44 have been forced to remove their ‘hijab’ - a cover the van,” Tina said. But that was not the end the hotter seasons, to ensure 45 envisaged as mandatory by hard line clerics - of her shocking experience. “Then a policeman women are properly covered. and also forced to observe it. came and tried to grab my arm. I was surprised The enforced Iranian chador because I didn’t really think that a policeman has become a way for women to express In the late 1930’s, Reza Shah sought the is allowed to touch a woman. But he did and themselves. Mojgon Davari explores elimination of the practice as part of a plan to finally pushed me into the van.” the chador’s political origins and how modernize Iran. But it was met with opposition from the clergy, as well as many Iranians who It is noteworthy that the forced removal of the Iranian women are vying to make traditionally stand up for their customs and hijab 70 years ago, and its forced observance it more stylish. religious beliefs. The opposite happened in today, have been opposed by the population. the aftermath of the Islamic Revolution of 1979 as the theocratic government enforced On 4 September 2013, a local website reported Sarah, 31, says what is called fashionable in Iran the mandatory hijab. Although the rule was that a senior cleric was beaten by a man in is different from the Western world, but she drastically tightened during the Iran-Iraq war northern Iran after the cleric told his wife to knows many who are stylish in their own way and of 1980-1988, the regime loosened its grip on properly cover herself. In two separate incidents observant of the hijab as well. “The dress code the society in the 90’s as well as its enforcement in Tehran in July this year, two women, known in Iran prevents the people, especially women, to of the law, particularly after the election of in Iran as “promoters of virtue and preventers follow their tastes in fashion but it’s still possible to Mohammad Khatami, a pro-reform cleric, as of vice”, were beaten by two young women be chic and fashionable even with hijab,” she said. President in 1997. after they told them to observe the hijab. Such physical quarrels often follow verbal arguments It would not be an exaggeration to say that the In the past decade, however, Iranian women between the two sides. In a rare incident, a Iranian women have silently revolutionized the have faced a new challenge in a unit called woman removed her headscarf in public after fashion industry under their garments. Even in “Morality Police” - frequently patrolling the being approached by the morality police, the early years after the revolution, most Iranian streets in Iran, even in the hotter seasons, to drawing much attention on social media. women preferred the manteau over the chador. It ensure women are properly covered. is through the manteau’s gradual transformation These incidents illustrate the frustration that that Iran’s fashion industry redefined itself. I“ Many have been arrested for not doing so, many Iranian women feel over the forced believe among Muslim countries, Iranian women though they are usually released shortly after. observance of the hijab. However, many young care the most about how they look and how The usual suspects are young girls who worry Iranian women try to find ways to incorporate fashionable they dress up while also observing more about their appearance, and thus are more their desire to be fashionable with the need to the hijab. The number of manteau designers we Women entering Sheikh Loftollah Mosque in Imam Square Esfahan, Iran. into looking fashionable. Bitter incidents have observe the hijab. have in Iran should say it all,” says Serina, 30. Photography by Bruno Morandi. Image courtesy Getty Images. Farnaz Abdoli, the famous designer of “Poosh”, says she has tried to design clothes that correspond to current social norms in Iran. “As a young Iranian girl who lives in a society with a lot of restrictions, the main factor for me in beginning my work was to design clothes that would be both beautiful and practical. In other words, I wanted to design clothes that could be worn in the streets of Iran,” she says. “I looked at it from my own point of view, from the point of view of a girl at my age who has a high taste and wants to wear something which is beautiful, different and practical.” Abdoli says some designers who only copy Western styles often fail because they simply become unusable.

Some women meanwhile believe being fashionable innately contradicts the hijab - as some think the hijab in Iran is meant to attract no attention whatsoever. Raha, 31, says the Islamic establishment does not want women to be attractive to the opposite sex - even if hair and body curves are totally covered - when out on the street. “What they want is for women to remain uniform by wearing loose, dark clothes with no identity like the chador, rather than wearing colorful, fashionable clothes,” she said.

46 47 This is what Poosh has tried to challenge. The the problem is, every now and then, they change says even different organizations have different brand has helped women to distance themselves their rules. What you wear today might not be dress codes. “I’m not a fashionable girl, but the from uniformity, to find their individual identity acceptable tomorrow. There is no easier target worst thing about the hijab in Iran is that it and find a way to express themselves with their than women for them to scare and pressure,” says depends on people’s taste to some extent. I wear a clothing. They have put innovations into their Forouzan, 45. manteau and scarf, and I go to Azad University,” designs through bright colors, avant-garde which is a private university. cuts and fabrics while abiding by the norms The most recent attacks have been directed at and restrictions that they face in their work, “leggings”, which have become very popular in “Nobody there tells me anything about my hijab. such as the length of sleeves and shirts and the recent months. These tight-fitting stretch pants I wear the same outfit at government universities collar width. This might seem difficult in the are frequently seen in the designs of Poosh. and they prevent me from even entering the beginning, as Abdoli says women entering her compound. The only thing they all seem to prefer shops were worried that their choice of clothing A Facebook page called “I Hate Leggings” was is the chador,” said Rana. might draw too much attention; however, she says created in August 2013 where supporters come they slowly realized they could wear the clothes to condemn women wearing them. “I created this With the failure of the chador and even the without trouble as a collective courage flourished page to confront the cultural attack by Western unfashionable manteau, the struggle between by seeing other women wearing them. countries that have trapped young Iranians the Islamic-approved dress code and chic, trendy “As a young Iranian girl who lives through leggings,” says the administrator of the outfits have entered a new phase. And with the in a society with a lot of restrictions, In order to keep up with the fast development page. Similar disapproval can also be seen in hardliners having a lot of sway within the regime the main factor for me in beginning my of the fashion designing industry in Iran, the many hard line blogs and websites. to enforce the observance of the hijab, Iranian work was to design clothes that would be Ministry of Culture and Islamic Guidance has women are fighting back by introducing more organized fashion and clothing festivals in On the other hand, there are many Facebook alternatives by designing fashionable clothing. both beautiful and practical.” the past two years. The next regime-tolerated pages in support of leggings. One page has more The battle is far from over. Farnaz Abdoli exhibition is scheduled for 2014. than 76,000 followers. “Most of the pictures seen in this page have been sent by the girls who wear The event has been welcomed, but many young leggings,” according to the page’s description. women still prefer dresses similar to those designed by Poosh. However, the hard line Many believe that the issue and the crackdown establishment always focuses on loopholes, to on improper hijab has growingly become a matter disallow what attire was once allowed. “Being a of personal opinion, with supporters arguing that This Page & Facing Page: Images courtesy of woman in Iran means there is a constant struggle there is no definite set of rules to make clear what Poosh, Spring / Summer 2013 Collection. in being stylish and beating the restrictions. But clothes can and what cannot be worn. Rana, 31, pooshdesign.com Deconstructing Chaos

Sunday summer By Cassidy Hazelbaker morning in Beirut: the glow of sun rays illuminates a block of buildings, whose cream- Acolored facades reflect the light onto the worn streets below. Here and there, a lone tree tenaciously holds its ground between two high- rises. A sidewalk is formed from little gray square tiles; some are chipped and dirtied with age, others buckle slightly around growing tree roots, but still, the walkway is resiliently more or less intact. Somewhere in the distance the call to prayer floats into the breeze; contrasting but not clashing with the cross of a nearby church which looms overhead.

48 49 Elsewhere in the Middle East the work week Real estate developers stand to profit from the result being much more effective in making has begun but Beirut clings on to the standard valuable real estate. It is easy to tear down a promoters and the ministries behind them European weekend, a nod to its French- dilapidated building, replace it with a modern think twice before issuing a demolition decree.” mandated past. The last day of the week structure, and sell it. Even historical buildings, Though activists who campaign to save Beirut’s thus becomes a time for family gatherings, with their significant places in Lebanese heritage buildings are passionate, they are few in beach-going, and power shopping in the city’s history, hardly receive any protection from numbers. International assistance in this field is assortment of malls. As the clock ticks closer to the government, which takes little initiative to usually given only to government institutions, noon, the city awakens; car engines stir to life preserve these buildings. Citizens have become which makes it difficult for an NGO such as and the cacophony of car horns begins. Some activists, doing all they can to promote the APLH to receive exterior support. “Nowadays families drive towards the hills, seeking the preservation of their city’s historic buildings. in Lebanon the activities of a ‘private’ NGO like cooler temperatures of their family villages. One such group of activists is the Association for APLH are for the protection of ‘public interest’ Others stop by the neighborhood bakery, the Protection of Lebanese Heritage (APLH). “I against a ‘public institution’ like the Ministry of selecting freshly-made sweets to serve to visitors grew up in the heart of Beirut, in a 1930’s house, Culture, which favors activities within ‘private later in the day. Tradition, energy, and spirit surrounded by even older houses, with their interests,’” says Ingea. meld to form the magical place that is Beirut. gardens, iron gates and elegant stonework. Then those houses started disappearing… so I opened The frustration is echoed online, in groups Beirut is architecturally as diverse as the people a Facebook group to gather like-minded people. such as Save Beirut Heritage, which functions The magical city of Beirut who reside within it. Ottoman style houses With a small core of committed members, we as an alert system to properties that are at risk contains many layers within its reflect Lebanon’s past under Turkish rule while took the Facebook group from online activism of demolition. Members share photos, maps ornate French details recall Lebanon’s European into a full-fledged NGO,” explains Pascale and news articles documenting the destruction, architectural make-up. Cassidy Hazelbaker influence. Many of the structures within these Ingea, President of APLH. criticizing the lack of government support to explores the city’s fascinating structure eclectic streets are deteriorating due to neglect preserve the city which they all proudly love. and what is being done to restore it and abandonment. Also prevalent within the “Never have so many traditional buildings after countless years of destruction. city’s streets are the marks of destruction; ever- been destroyed- in Beirut more than 100 were Architecture in present reminders of the darkness of civil war counted in the past two years,” laments Ingea, a Post-War Society which Lebanon underwent for fifteen years, referring to the corruption rife within the Many residents of cities that have seen conflict from 1975 to 1990. Shiny post-war buildings government which easily sways those within the find it therapeutic to completely tear down and sit side-by-side with bullet-riddled edifices. The Culture Ministry to sign off on the demolition rebuild, symbolically wiping away the painful remains of bomb-blasted homes slowly crumble and dismantling of heritage buildings. “We memories of destruction. In Beirut this has with the elements, their metal skeletons transferred our energy from the street due to been the case in the downtown area, which protruding from piles of concrete rubble. the futility of it, and took matters to court, the was effectively razed, rebuilt and rebranded Image courtesy of APLH

“To me this fight was one of survival: I want to live in a human city and the heritage clusters inBeirut give me that. I was fighting for the Beirut I wanted my children to grow in, to love and respect.”

Mona Hallak

“When history, identity, and be transformed into a cultural center, museum “Usually the younger generation is more collective memory are weighed of the city of Beirut, and an urban planning enthusiastic about heritage preservation as they against money, money wins meeting place. Beit Beirut seeks to be a neutral feel the need to have a better urban environment in a mercantile society with community meeting space that promotes the and have come to appreciate the qualities of no civic belonging,” says love of Beirut to all visitors, regardless of which heritage clusters in many areas like Jemmayze Hallak, musing on both community they belong to or in which area of and Achrafieh where most heritage buildings the real estate situation in Beirut they reside. The building’s restoration have turned their charming ground floors to Beirut and Lebanese society should provide a place for meeting and restaurants and pubs,” adds Hallak. Young in general. “The Lebanese reconciliation, a space for memory so as not to Lebanese are highly active on social media, have not since the end of be swept up by amnesia. Contrary to what some providing a powerful platform to spread the the civil war engaged in a call a wound still too raw to touch, Hallak says, word about Beirut’s rich heritage and beautiful serious nation-wide attempt “I think that human feelings unite, loss unites, historic buildings that are at risk. 50 at reconciliation. People have pain unites, and people who lost beloved ones 51 not forgiven. People want to find relief in other peoples’ stories about their Recently, Minister Selim Warde formed a avoid remembrance but in own loss. I think going down to the essential committee of architects and urban planners effect they are actually falling human experience of a human soul during to review demolition permit applications and into the trap of fighting war will present a memory to share and build also decline those of unique and important again.” upon rather than numbers and dates and names buildings. “The pressure from owners is huge to fight upon. It is time to look at the war as and it is a brave step in the absence of a law This desire to preserve a whole, to try to assimilate it, accept it and for heritage protection,” says Hallak. “The last Beirut’s historical buildings forgive, or else we might fall into its trap again.” draft of a law was approved by the government and to make a statement in 2006 and sent to parliament, where it rests in within Lebanese post- Beirut’s Architecture a drawer ever since.” war society led to the in Contemporary Society establishment of the Beit Though appreciation of Beirut’s rapidly Citizens should keep Facebook posting, into über-luxurious shopping, dining and office Beirut (Beirut House) project in 2003, after disappearing historic buildings is increasing, tweeting, and holding candlelight vigils for spaces by the development company Solidere. six years of tireless campaigning for a decree there remains much work to convince many their treasured heritage. Perhaps with enough Though many supported the move, others did of expropriation for the Barakat building, Lebanese that this architecture is worth saving. pressure, politicians will reopen this drawer not. Some critics claim that downtown Beirut which Hallak finally received. “The loss of In a delicate post-war society that is slowly to prioritize Beirut’s historical preservation. has lost its soul and is no longer accessible to the Downtown Beirut to Solidere had its toll healing its civil wounds in the midst of regional The fate of Beirut’s older buildings ultimately average Beiruti, while others cite that by erasing on many preservation activists who became sectarian conflict, a topic which unites members depends on government legislation. Until then, all vestiges of war, Lebanese are ignoring and convinced that we stand helpless against real of different religious and social groups is a Beirutis will continue to go about their lives, glossing over their past without addressing estate greed. I personally never was discouraged. valuable tool. “Architecture is a common trait spending time with family and friends, enjoying lingering social, religious and political discord. To me this fight was one of survival: I want to of the people and normally when something their country’s beautiful mountains and beaches live in a human city and the heritage clusters in threatens this, it is enough reason for the people and tensely awaiting regional developments. The The demolition of downtown Beirut was a Beirut give me that. I was fighting for the Beirut to stand up to this common threat,” observes sun’s rays will still illuminate the Mediterranean shocking sight to Lebanese architect Mona I wanted my children to grow in, to love and Ingea. “The problem is that not all Lebanese skyline of Beirut as the sun rises and sets, as Hallak, who recalls ”the sight of the Burj respect,” explains Hallak. feel this is a threat. Many simply welcome new days begin. Ingea and Hallak, in addition Square being flattened by bulldozers was too this ‘newness’ because they would rather have to others, will continue their campaigning painful and my first reaction was that we lost The Beit Beirut project involves the restoration towers and malls than historical buildings. We for change. our downtown to a real estate company; we have of one of the most damaged buildings along the differ as Lebanese, by how we view culture, to save the rest of Beirut’s heritage.” Green Line, Damascus Street, which used to be history and tourism. Many of us don’t identify All images courtesy of the author unless a sniper post during the war. The building will with historical buildings.” otherwise specified. 52 DECADENCE 53

Watches: Fairytale Sparkles Fantasy Jewels Treasure TROVE An artistic fusion Rolec

Watch es: Fa iry ta le Spa r kles

By Cassidy Hazelbaker

Blancpain

Found in silver, gold and white Among them is Blancpain’s with lots of diamonds, these Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe diving watch for ladies, which timepieces are elegant and simple and elegant in crisp white, dreamy creations. drawing on the vintage collection for inspiration while incorporating the latest modern calibres to ensure correct time keeping whether under the sea or on the land. Omega’s De 54 Ville Prestige timepiece features a 55 mother of pearl butterfly with a patterned face and encrusted with 50 sparkling diamonds around the white gold bezel and a diamond-pavé butterfly between seven and eight o’clock. Glaschutte’s Pavovina warms the wrist with its elegant red gold cushion- shaped face marking each hour with a dazzling diamond. Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Lady-Date Just Pearlmaster features a slightly larger 29 milimeter case, which glitters with large diamonds set in rose gold around the bezel. Van Cleef & Arpels’ Charms Watch in Rose Gold completes the set, showcasing a plethora of pavé diamonds around the bezel and the band, complete with a diamond-encrusted alhambra charm. Über-feminine and elegant, these sophisticated timepieces bring out the princess in Glaschutte each modern woman.

Van Cleef & Arpels

Omega Pendant and earrings in rose gold, diamonds, and South Sea pearls. Fa n tasy Utopia’s assortment of marine-themed pearl jewelry recalls crustaceans, coral, an octopus and Jewels miniature clams, parting their diamond-encrusted halves to reveal the Udazzling pearl inside.

56 57

Roberto Coin’s pieces transition from sea to land as elephants and lizards

come alive through flashing gems. IR IS

The geometric design of the 5.10 M y a

M a collection recalls the shrubbery found r is e ar H Stern continues the aquatic in the arid plains of south of the Sahara. ri ng s i n 18 enchantment with more whimsical K Rose g old a nd d interpretations of clams and squid, iamo ds. n wrapping their tentacles around exquisite gemstones. Cast in H Stern’s signature R nobel gold and set with white diamonds, Hthis is the best kind of hidden treasure. Treasure TROVE onfident and poised, The idea for Kanzi came Roberta Calarese wears a chic black abaya as along after discussions she greets me at Harvey Nichols, Dubai. The with her cousin, Chantal By Cassidy Hazelbaker CItalian-born founder of Kanzi Jewels has much Sassoli de Bianchi, who to be proud of- her brand first launched on 4 moved to Dubai a few September showcasing three different collections. years ago. Seeking a The designer seems to fit in effortlessly with creative outlet from the both the local Emirati culture, into which she is finance world, Calarese discussed the concept and green sapphires, blue tanzanite, mother of married, as well as her traditional Italian heritage, with Sassoli de Bianchi, who is now the Design pearl, and pink opals. All three collections feature transitioning from one to the other and blending Director. “We wanted to do something out of the diamonds prominently through nearly all of their them together to create a persona every bit as box. We asked ourselves, what are the things that pieces, notably as sparkling little accents in the elegant, unique and dynamic as her new jewelry we love?” recalls Calarese. “We wanted our jewelry settings. Roberta Calarese’s Kanzi Jewels line. to be wearable, fashionable and statement-making, merge her Italian origins with the Emirati but also elegant. Elegance is key!” she declares It is a wonder how Calarese juggles her roles as Born into a traditional and conservative Italian emphatically. a mother, successful executive and now jewelry heritage of her husband thus transforming cultural family, she spent the first 19 years of her life in one designer. “Kanzi is a hobby for me. I don’t mind 58 differences into startling jewelry creations. of the most beautiful and artistically rich countries The cousins aimed to not launch just another spending my free time doing it. The tradeoff 59 of the world before moving to London, where she jewelry brand, but instead create pieces that though is time for myself, which is zero!” she Cassidy Hazelbaker meets Calarese joined the fast-paced and male-dominated world could become means of expression for the wearer. laughs. The busy businesswoman is always on of investment banking. Her career brought her “Emirati women are very unique. They are the go, whether dashing between meetings or to learn the secrets. to Dubai in 2000, which was a pivotal time for individualistic, creative and they love to express traveling abroad to source gemstones. Her family Dubai’s financial sector. I“ have had opportunities themselves boldly in color. They love to make is always close to heart and she combines her to work with top people from around the world,” a statement!” she observes. “We have designed passions by incorporating her children into the she says. “I was in the right place at the right time.” Kanzi for these women. We want our jewelry creative process, taking their opinions on new to fulfill the different parts of a personality; we designs. Even her husband has contributed, by Calarese has proven to be a superstar in the want our clients to express their moods through proposing the brand’s name. ‘Kanzi’ comes from financial scene; she is currently the Chief Legal their jewels,” explains Calarese. “Emirati taste in Arabic and means ‘my treasure.’ Calarese found it Officer of the IFCD Authority, the DIFC Data jewelry is still very traditional but it is evolving an exotic and accurate description for the jewelry Protection Commissioner and the Secretary of the towards more trendy pieces.” line. Treasure it is, indeed! Board of Directors. Contrary to what some people may assume about a woman working in finance in Kanzi’s three collections are distinctly different Kanzi Jewels are available exclusively the Middle East, Calarese elaborates, “I feel very but all retain the elegance that is such an integral at Harvey Nichols Dubai. appreciated here. Women here have incredible part of the brand. ‘Vintage’ is characterized by opportunities, if [they] are capable and have the bold, geometric pieces in more neutral, earthy right support.” Of her own experience, she states, moonstones, emeralds, and geodes. ‘Rose e “exposure to any culture enriches you; Confetti’ is, true to its name, full of über-feminine Facing Page Clockwise from Top makes you a better person. I have pink quartz and white agate set in pink gold. The Left: Earrings containing 18 carat a great capacity to adapt to settings and details are remarkably delicate; many white gold, diamonds with pink quartz roses. Ring containing 18 my surroundings. It’s of the rings have pink gold and diamond detailing carat white gold, white diamonds with green important to respect that wrap around the stones, recalling a lovely calcite cabochon. Ring containing 18 carat yellow gold, diamonds, sapphires and grey, pink and white the culture you’re in. garden in which vines twist around a garden pearls. Earrings in 18 carat gold, silver, gray and As they say, when in trellis. ‘Les Exclusives’ is the most fantastical of black diamonds. Ring containing 18 carat rose gold, diamonds and blue topaz. Rome…!” the three collections, comprising whimsical shapes Above: Kanzi founder Roberta Calarese. and a plethora of vibrant gemstones, including Below Left to Right: Ring in 18 carat gold, sapphire, emeralds and white diamonds. Earrings containing 18 red ruby cabochon, orange spessartite, pink, blue carat white gold, diamonds with mother of pearl stars. an artisic

fusionBy Rebecca Anne Proctor recious gemstones, an intriguing to the similarities between the use of natural materials and a fervent desire to architecture in buildings and always stay in tune with the times - these are all that found in jewelry. Both art Pelements that have allowed Swiss fine jewelry forms focus on the incorporation Adler to make its mark. But besides the brand’s of varying textures, materials unique artistry, what has set it apart from other and have the potential to become Carlo Adler Swiss fine jeweler Adler now has boutiques in the jewelers is its special relationship with the East. icons that stand the test of time. world’s major cosmopolitan metropolises. Apart from Other innovative campaigns over the last several brand will have six boutiques through which to The story of Adler began in Istanbul in 1886, years include “Memoires de Femmes, Memoire welcome their global clientele including Geneva, its unique artistry, what distinguishes the brand is its when Jacques Adler, a Viennese-trained goldsmith, du Monde Campaign.” This was the brand’s Gstaad, London, Hong Kong, Tokyo and Doha unique relationship with Istanbul and special vision moved to the city to establish a workshop producing longest running campaign and it was dedicated and Adler’s haute joaillerie jewels will travel of beauty. Rebecca Anne Proctor reports. jewels that were soon bought by royalty around the to women of the world. Revealed in a series of among the boutiques. world. This was a time when Istanbul was known powerful and dream-like images of women in as one of the major capitals of jewelry - an ideal sepia photography, the campaign cleverly referred Adler is increasingly spending more time in the place for artistic dialogue and exchange between to a time when more and more women began to Middle East region. “Traditionally the Middle prominent and inspiring jewelers. In 1972, nearly obtain professional and entrepreneurial jobs. East has been great consumers of jewelry,” says 60 a century later, Jacques’ grandson Franklin Adler, This allowed for an increase in buying precious Adler. “There is a great history there and today 61 transferred the company to its now headquarters jewelry, hence Adler’s advertisements that would the consumers in the region for high class jewelry in Geneva. Since then, the Adler family has been place the needs of the contemporary women at are very educated and know exactly what they personally involved in the trade from all aspects the forefront of their jewelry production. want.” Adler comes to the region twice a year of the business - from buying and polishing and feels that each time is a way to better “test” Beauty is gemstones to design and crafting its jewelry During the 1980s, the brand also began the market and observe the trends that are being especially what items as well as running an exclusive network of incorporating steel, wood and silk into its designs. promoted in order to see if they will fit with boutiques around the world. These materials were then combined with Adler’s vision. For example, the brand’s latest you don’t see.” sapphires and emeralds into creations that took collection is about promoting carbon fiber - a Carlo Adler “We are multi-cultured,” says Carlo Adler, the a daring new approach to conventional jewelry. material usually connected with industry. “It is brand’s president, who left his job in commodity “We realize that jewelry is not just about gold very challenging to work with carbon fiber, but it trading to join the family firm. “We were born in and diamonds,” says Adler. “We are a firm that is an extremely interesting material,” he explains; Turkey, but went to school in the UK and moved spends a lot of time in research and development. “It has a unique grain and sensibility. We love to Switzerland. Obviously having been born in We were the first to try non-precious metals. We working with different textures.” a place like Turkey and being surrounded by started by using wood and then later we tried beautiful things has influenced our jewelry and titanium and in the last few years we have been Ultimately, the result of such explorations is our lives.” experimenting with carbon fiber.” to make something beautiful. We aim to make beautiful jewelry,” says Alder. “But in order What is pivotal to the nature of Adler is its In December 2013, the brand will open its to obtain beauty, one must be able to master unique marriage of Western and Eastern artistic renovated flagship store in Geneva as well all things people don’t see - the polish must traditions. A quick look at Adler’s advertising as a shop-in-shop in Doha, Qatar, Adler’s be perfect as does the technique in which the campaigns over the last 40 years reveals a brand first commercial presence in the region. The jewelry piece is made. Beauty is especially what that sees a jewelry piece in tandem with the artistic house has been presenting its jewelry in Qatar you don’t see.” expression inherent in a theater performance since 1988 and has now decided to have a Facing Page: Rings from the Cameleon Collection. or architectural creation. From 1985 to 1993 permanent presence in the country Above: Sail rose cut diamond earrings. the brand bridged artistic disciplines with its through their local partner, Amiri Below: Paradise blue ring. All images courtesy Adler. ‘Building Campaign’ creating advertisements Gems. Adler’s shop-in-shop will be of Adler jewels crafted to replicate the lines of located in the heart of Doha’s luxury For more information visit iconic buildings. The campaign drew attention district. From December 2013, the adler-joailliers.com 62 EXPRESSION 63

City Style: animal instincts Alice Temperley and her Grown-Up Dresses Paule Ka: Taking a Bow EDGY and EXPERIMENTAL: Madiyah Al-Sharqi Diary of a Fashion Buyer A Simplistic Turn Modern Wares for Modern Women A Fascination with the Faraway Fall Trends Simplistic Glamour City Style animal instincts

By Sarah Hassan

Animal prints have returned to rule on

64 the runway this season, with designers 65 heeding the call of the wild from the catwalk to the sidewalk.

Safari-ready ensembles, calf-hair spotted separates and shimmering tones for evening appeared from New York to Paris, as fashion returned to time-honored staples of leopard print with ethnic- inspired accessories and classic shapes in black and white.

Whether sleek and spotted in the office, casual in neutrals on the weekend or sexy and shining in the evening, take a cue from queens of the jungle and own the cat’s walk.

Young woman with a cheetah on a leash. Photography by Brad Wilson. Image courtesy Getty Images Lion Black Panther

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Office Night WEekend Office Evening Weekend

Silk Blend Top Carven Dress Halston Sunglasses Roland Mouret Quilted Leather Skirt Roberto Cavalli Open-Back Gown Burberry Prorsum Leggings Les Chiffoniers Leather Pencil Skirt Tory Burch Sandals Rene Caovilla Dress Tomas Maier Top Temperley London Pumps Gianvito Rossi Draped Top Helmut Lang Pumps Gianvito Rossi Bracelets Isabel Marant Bag Chloe Glasses Illesteva Clutch Anya Hindmarch Suede Wedge Sneakers Giuseppe Zanotti Cat Eye Glasses Prism Clio Calf Hair and Leather Sandals Earrings Kenneth Jay Lane Black & White Clutch Proenza Schouler LEOpa r d BENGAL TIGER

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Skirt Roland Mouret Dress Preen By Thornton Bregazzi Silk Bomber Jacket Equipment Bag Marc Jacobs Silk Jersey Jumpsuit Issa Skinny Jeans Kenzo Suede Pumps Jimmy Choo Printed Calf Hair Clutch Lanvin Jersey Top The Row Belted Silk Jacket Marni Sandals Charlotte Olympia Sweater Equipment Blouse Helmut Lang Pumps Christian Louboutin Denim Skinny Jeans Frame Dress Alexander Wang Necklace Kenzo Studded Clutch Valentino Bag Marc By Marc Jacobs Leather Gloves Lanvin Loafers Katie Grand Loves Hogan Earrings Herve Van Der Straeten Sneakers Common Projects Earrings Lulu Frost All items are available via net-a-porter.com Alice Temperley and her Grown-Up Dresses

British designer Alice Temperley’s exquisite dresses have become popular with celebrities worldwide. Annabel Treon speaks with the designer in London on her imaginative designs, Middle Eastern presence and furthering the world of Temperley. al iceBy Annabel Treon “Luckily I am always inspired and my mind works overtime in this department!”

Alice Temperley

a Master’s degree at the Royal College of Art. continents and a number of collaborations. do every week of the year and have two people result.” Part of a close knit family, Temperley To support herself, she used all the fabrics she Temperley’s recent presentation of her upcoming to help me organize it. I also am a quick decision works with all of her three siblings in different made to create dresses and sold them in shops in spring 2014 collection at London Fashion Week maker and have a fantastic team around me that capacities. For example, her sister Matilda does London and Los Angeles. Therein a passion for was well received by fashion critics. “My SS14 makes everything possible.” all the photo shoots while her brother Henry the fashion business was born. collection is very much Temperley dipped in works on the Temperley film content. heady, ethereal romance,” she says “I dreamt To date, Temperley recognizes career highlights As her business grew into a brand, Temperley about celebrating life in a rich, full and fragrant ranging from the opening of her first ever shop Temperley’s motivation is simply put - her started to draw inspiration from everywhere, Sicilian adventure, dressed in luxurious fabrics under her flat in London’s Notting Hill, to being passion. “I love what I do, if I didn’t it would be making sure to document her findings. “Luckily I with detailed textures and delicate patterns and chosen by Anna Wintour to represent designers in impossible,” she professes. “It is such an honor am always inspired and my mind works overtime prints. The look is of fresh, effortless luxury their 20’s in a large feature shot by Annie Leibovitz when someone wears your clothes, famous or Soon to be in its 14th year, Temperley London has in this department!” She laughs. “I take my with new trapeze shapes and rich voluminous for American Vogue in 2004. She was awarded an not. I like to see any woman in Temperley, if it artist friend Frederick Wimsett travel over and become an integral part of the British Fashion inspiration from life, travel, interiors, old films, silhouettes with minimal accessories, in a warm MBE by Her Majesty the Queen at Buckingham is someone in an airport somewhere or someone paint incredible golden peacocks on the walls.” landscape. Renowned for feminine silhouettes screen sirens from old Hollywood and my library. and gentle color palette of burgundy, pink, blush, Palace in the 2011 New Years Honours and is walking down the street. It is as flattering as and exquisite dresses, the brand has won the Everything and anything can inspire so I collect lilac, black, mint and white.” As with most of her proud of the fact that she has been able to stay seeing someone in the public eye.” She prefers not Indeed the region has grown to be their third hearts of fans across the globe, from Keira things and references all the time.” work, all in all, it is a celebration of femininity. independent. Even when faced with financial to use specific muses, describing the Temperley largest market after the UK and USA. Temperley Knightley to Emma Watson, Pippa Middleton crisis, Temperley has found ways to weather the Woman as one who cannot be pinned down to believes that the brand is well suited to the to Anna Wintour. As creative director for the She describes her design process as “organic and Temperley carefully co-ordinates this theme storm and connect with her consumer, embracing one person, nationality, age or personality; she is Arabic market. “The way Arabic women dress brand, Alice Temperley is real and down to earth; fluid.” Her collections are well thought out and throughout her Alice by Temperley and Temperley technology and innovation. Temperley has also independent, strong, appreciates her femininity, in private is very expressive - they are not shy to humble and unassuming. She is a breath of underpinned by thorough research. “My research Brides lines as well. “Whatever I design, I design been chosen to present her collections online pays attention to detail and “appreciates dress up for an occasion and make a statement. fresh air in an industry that can often be daring is an organic process that changes seasonally,” she with the aesthetic I believe in,” emphasizes rather than over the catwalk. The designer investment pieces.” We are known for our dresses, especially our long and attention-seeking. Temperley’s consistent explains. “I am constantly looking for inspiration the designer. “All three lines are a part of me personally curates her favorite selections on the occasion wear, which the Arabic customer really passion for creativity and feminism has been at and ideas and often refer to my treasured archive and true to who I am and how I dress; fantasy Temperley London website. From concessions in stores such as Saks Fifth responds to, and our details and embellishment. the heart of her success. A quintessential Brit, which I began as a child. Since then it has taken and femininity, practical and unpretentious, Avenue and standalone presences in Dubai I find the Arab customer very fashion savvy and she is charmingly delightful and real, with a on a life of its own with additions being made from approachable luxury. I am a woman designing Temperley attributes her success to simple, honest and Doha, the Middle East is becoming an well informed and I love designing for their warm reminiscence of a mischievous country girl my travels and different periods of my life. I know for women. I know how we want to feel - elegant, hard work. “We have worked incredibly hard increasing focus for the brand. “The Middle sensibility.” A frequent visitor to the region, behind the smart exterior of a highly successful that I can sift through the rails and chests and feminine and timeless, but also the best version of to get to where we are in a tough environment East has always been very supportive of what Temperley is currently working on bringing in business woman. invariably come out with a concept for a new print, ourselves. I never believe a dress should wear the and it has used every single bit of energy and we do and a natural customer - some of my some limited edition kaftans and is exploring the shape or texture. It is so important to record one’s owner; the dress should only but compliment her.” drive humanly possible,” she says. “Over the last first private clients were from Saudi - and potential to incorporate Abayas into her range. Temperley grew up in rural Somerset on her findings, as often the inspiration isn’t tangible year we have restructured our business and are it continues to be a strong area of growth for parents’ cider farm where her creative streak but rather a moment in time, a view or an idea. I This year has seen Temperley with her hands full looking forward to the next phase in growth with us commercially.” Temperley London have But Temperley’s ambitions do not end here. “The was evident from a young age. “I was always have a wonderful studio at my home in Somerset from launching a new website, moving to a new our new CEO Ulrik Garde Due and my strong partnered with the Salam Group in Doha, past thirteen years seem like a lifetime on one making things,” she recounts. “I was fascinated in England, a beautiful bright room with views Mayfair HQ and a second Somerset collection for team that has taken me ten years to build. I also working on their store concept together. “Both hand, and on the other it just like the beginning,” by patterns, sewing, painting, cutting things up of the greenery outside. This room is the perfect John Lewis, to photo shoots in Dubai’s deserts, have very supportive friends and a great team.” of my stores, at the Gate Mall in Doha and The says the designer. “There are so many things I to make textile pieces or clothing - I remember environment for creativity and also where I store appointing a new CEO, launching a new store She credits her family for helping her develop Dubai Mall in Dubai, have been designed in a would still love to do, a children’s range, home being in trouble for constantly breaking my some of my archive pieces so I can work here in Doha and setting up a blog. All this while the capabilities required to be successful in her decadent way. I oversaw all the interior design ware, perfume. I want to transform Temperley mother’s sewing machine. I had a real urge to without any disruptions for hours on end.” running business as usual as well as being a business. “My mother has always encouraged my for both stores so it is completely bespoke with into an all-encompassing - a World of Temperley create and would spend hours drawing and devoted mother to her young son, Fox. “I started creative side; she is very free spirited, talented white marble flooring throughout and black lifestyle... .” She is certainly on her way. making things that I would sometimes sell at Her inspiration has translated neatly into with two collections a year and now do about and creative with everything she applies herself marble detailing. It also has lovely touches local village shops.” Temperley later left sleepy commercial success as her business has gone from 16 (1000 items) so my timetable is relentless to - from mud building to etching. My father has such as changing rooms featuring Temperley’s Alice by Temperley & Temperley London are Somerset for a faster pace of life at Central Saint strength to strength with presence in now over and extremely organised,” says Temperley of her always done things for himself and has a hard own print wallpaper and individually sourced available at Saks Fifth Avenue Dubai & Bahrain. aMartin’s College of Art in London followed by 40 countries, stand-alone stores across several extraordinaryl schedule. “I know what I have to icework ethic. We are all fiercely independent as a antique mirrors and chandeliers. I had my fine temperleylondon.com French ready-to-wear brand Paule Ka is renowned for its modern and elegant attire boasting classic, geometrical shapes and colors. Rebecca Anne Proctor speaks with the brand’s founder and designer Paule K a Serge Cajfinger about his artistic influences and how the little black dress remains Taking at the heart of his creations.

74 a Bow 75

Symmetrical contrasts of black and white with white and very graphic (very Paule Ka) that I By Rebecca Anne Proctor flashes of monochromatic pastel tones that vary bought when I was young.” In 1974, Cajfinger from season to season. This sounds like the opened up a multi-brand store in Lille with his palette of a painter eager to reflect life’s everyday mother and aunt whose name was “Paule”; the vicissitudes onto the canvas. It also describes surname “Ka” is a reference to “Cajfinger.” The the creations of Serge Cajfinger, designer and shop carried designers who have now become founder of the Parisian fashion label Paule Ka. pivotal names in fashion including Alaia, Simplistic and refined lines have been at the Montana, Mugler and Kenzo. “The influence of heart of Cajfinger’s work ever since the brand these Parisian labels as well as my relationship opened its first boutique in 1987 in the heart of with various clients sharpened my knowledge Paris’ Marais. But more than anything, it is the of the female form and what women ultimately little black dress that was and continues to be desire to wear,” explains Cajfinger. In 1987, the defining source of inspiration for the brand. he left Lille to begin an adventure of his own and set up the Paule Ka label in Paris. The Born in Lille, France, Cajfinger spent his brand now boasts its headquarters on rue Saint childhood in Brazil with his family. He returned Honoré in Paris and has around 55 boutiques to France during the late 1960s and began his worldwide, including a recently opened store in immersion into the world of fashion. “By the age New York. of eight I already knew that I wanted to be a designer. During the holidays, my family often The Little Black Dress went to New York. I remember being fascinated The story of Paule Ka ultimately begins with the by fashion and especially by department little black dress. This evening or cocktail dress, stores such as Bergdorf Goodman,” he says. “I cut simply and often quite short, returned to remember a unique pair of trousers, black and favor during the 1950s in the post-war era and during a time of sexual conservatism. Cajfinger are found in the curves of a piece of furniture to Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau, Cajfinger’s was attracted to the garment’s strength and by Paulin, the grace of a building by Brazilian desire was to offer women an imaginative The way in which Paule Ka creatively simplicity, especially when it was worn on the architect Oscar Niemeyer, the solid colors jewelry line filled with poetic fantasy - much reconfigured the classic bow says it all. This is a era’s style icons, such as Jackie Onassis Kennedy, of a canvas by Mark Rothko and the kinetic like the artist’s work themselves. Shape thus brand that constantly revisits traditional forms in order to redefine what is classic in the present Audrey Hepburn and Princess Grace Kelly. “As sculptures of Alexander Calder. Through the says it all. It can signify strength, femininity and “At the origin of my creativity are a kid, I was fascinated by the elegance and Paule Ka collections I constantly desire to elegance - all principal tenets of Paule Ka. day. In such a way, Paule Ka goes beyond the strength of Jacky O all dressed in black at the harmonize these various artistic compositions. conventional means of fashion design and aesthetic encounters, these are found in the burial of her husband,” recalls Cajfinger. “The My work is a representation of my imagination The Bow breaks down stereotypes of what form and curves of a piece of furniture by Paulin, the grace timeless little black dress she was wearing has as well as the ideals of elegance and modernity.” For Paule Ka’s latest Spring/Summer 2014 function should be. All the while, the brand of a building by Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, continues to reflect the grace and Hollywood become the most elegant piece of any woman’s collection, the bow has once again proved itself the solid colors of a canvas by Mark Rothko and the wardrobe. The period of the 50s and 60s was The geometric forms found in modern Brazilian to be a defining creative trait. Bows were found glamour that is not easy to find in today’s very positive. Women were so optimistic and it architecture are a pertinent reference within on cropped blouses made out of short shirt contemporary fashion circuit. Celebrities kinetic sculptures of Alexander Calder.” is for this reason that this era still influences the designer’s work. “I have always been very sleeves in a manner that extended both sides including Eva Longoria, Rihanna, Sarah Jessica Serge Cajfinger me today.” sensitive to Brazilian architecture, such as that just enough so that they could be tied. It was Parker and Selena Gomez are just some of the of Niemeyer, which marked my childhood in a clever way to revisit one of the brand’s staple names that have worn Cajfinger’s dresses. Paule Today, Cajfinger continues to reinvent and Brazil, or even that of Marcio Kogan today,” characteristics. Bows were also found with a Ka is about elegant versatility. “Whether or not rework the little black dress. The garment can he explains. “Niemeyer’s constant research tromp l’oeil effect on the bodice of cocktail dress; you’re a celebrity, every woman wants to feel be found in a peplum style, with long and short for new forms is something that I inspire to the two sides of the bow had been disjointed so beautiful and elegant while also remaining true sleeves, collars and in a slim-fit for seductive through my designs.” Given the brand’s lack that it barely resembled a bow. These dresses to themselves,” he says. “And this is what my eveningwear. The garment, as are the rest of of embellishment and artful decor, the artistic were laden with a print inspired by the ceramics creations are all about.” Paule Ka’s designs, is also greatly influenced form of Cajfinger’s creations is one of the of Vallauris – also seen on other evening dresses by Cajfinger’s interest in visual art and principle characteristics of his work. The jewelry in a graphic black and white pattern as well as architecture. “At the origin of my creativity are pieces created for the brand’s Fall/Winter 2013 an abstract flower print – references that pay aesthetic encounters,” says the designer. “These collection are another case-in-point. A tribute tribute to the designer’s artistic inspiration. EDGY and EXPERIMENTAL: Madiyah

Al-Sharqi “It’s important to remember that fashion is very much a business. There is a lot to understand and learn about that side of the industry.”

Sheikha Madiyah Al-Sharqi

78 By Sarah Bladen 79 The designer says that her own sense of style bygone eras. I love how Marie Antoinette used the financial district of Dubai. She also tries reflects that of her fashion collections. I“ would to dress. I like the look that air hostesses had to find time for photography, horse riding and describe my taste as young, feminine and in the 1960s. I also adore the architecture and travelling - she especially likes relaxing in her experimental. I like to have fun with fashion lifestyle that existed back in the day - the Palace family home in London. One of Dubai’s most and push the boundaries.” of Versailles really inspires me and the era of the sought-after designers, Enlightenment does too.” Keen to make her label an international It’s perhaps no wonder then, that Al-Sharqi cites sensation, Al-Sharqi displays a level-headed Sheikha Madiyah Al-Sharqi, Being the daughter of the ruler of Fujairah, the British contemporary artist Tracey Emin as In her upcoming spring 2014 collection, savvy business sense. “It’s important to talks to Sarah Bladen about Al-Sharqi grew up surrounded by haute one of her key creative influences. E“ min’s art Al-Sharqi has chosen a softer pastel palette with remember that fashion is very much a business. couture. From an early age, the 23-year-old her breakthrough moment and work was so fresh when she first burst on to the stunning embroidery and her usual gorgeously There is a lot to understand and learn about that Emirati watched tailors create lavish custom- her head-turning Autumn/ scene, but today, her pieces still feel original. feminine silhouettes. “I can’t give too much side of the industry - it’s certainly not just about made gowns in her palatial family home in The timelessness of her art is incredible. And away, but it’s gearing up to be my favorite line beautiful fabrics and stunning photo shoots. Winter collection. Fujairah. And by the time she reached her teens, I find her neon text art particularly intriguing,” yet.” Personally, my fashion education was crucial, Al-Sharqi had fallen head over heels in love with she admits. it’s one thing to be creative but if you don’t know the design process - the fashion world was her Unlike many designers who have a wish how to technically master these creative ideas, it intuitive calling. Maybe there was a touch of Tracey Emin in list when it comes to dressing celebrities, is really going to hinder your success.” the Emirati designer’s last collection, which Al-Sharqi says she hasn’t given Hollywood stars While studying at the prestigious French featured pops of neon as well as ladylike lace much consideration. “Of course, it would be a Besides dreaming of owning her own boutique fashion university, Esmod, she interned with the and wonderfully louche silhouettes. compliment for someone famous to wear one of one day and taking on the rest of the world, the renowned Lebanese designer Abed Mahfouz. my designs, but I haven’t really thought about it Emirati designer hopes to expand her product “It was an amazing experience watching Abed,” This fall, Al-Sharqi has taken a darker, edgier much. I’m always delighted seeing any woman range to include accessories and shoes. “Let’s says Al-Sharqi. “I gained so much insight from approach, influenced by the Art Deco period. wear a Madiyah Al-Sharqi outfit. I want to give see what will happen, it’s been an amazing him about the whole creative process. What I Her Autumn/Winter collection showcases women everywhere a feeling of self-confidence journey so far,” says Al-Sharqi. We imagine this learned was priceless.” several scene-stealing pieces created from a in their femininity, as well as a feeling of fashion princess will go a long way! range of sumptuous fabrics. “My Autumn/ being comfortable enough to step outside their When the Emirati designer launched her Winter collection has jewel tones. And I mixed comfort zone.” eponymous label, her first collection was heavier fabrics like leathers, furs and jacquards snapped up by Boutique 1 and Symphony - two with light crepes,” she says. When the stylish designer isn’t poring over Madiyah Al Sharqi is available at Symphony, of her favorite stores. “Seeing my pieces hanging patterns or flying over to Paris to soak in the S*uce and Mahani in Dubai and Cream in next to major international designer labels was Al-Sharqi’s other inspirations shine through fashion week shows, she loves dining at the Jeddah. For more information visit a huge breakthrough for me. It was such an in this collection too. “I’m constantly in awe of Argentine steak restaurant, Gaucho located in madiyahalsharqi.com enthralling feeling,” admits Al-Sharqi. Francisco Costa put out his 10th anniversary collection for Calvin Klein this season. Incorporating the concept of found, organic materials. One of the most stunning pieces was this printed snakeskin coat that included strips of old movie posters!

Leading up to Fashion month, this collection as well as his I always feel both excited and 10 years as Women’s Creative apprehensive. While I am eager to Director of Calvin Klein. see the work of the many designers I admire, I know the long hours Paris Fashion Week: that I face in the coming weeks. Yet September 24 - despite all of this, when I look back October 2 I am always deeply appreciative of the Paris is an amazing city with which to end experience and moved by the immense Fashion month. It’s visually stunning and talent I have the privilege to work with. presents some of the most elevated collections, all of which set the tone for this season. The greatest part of my job is working closely with the talented designers The Rochas collection felt magical as the models we carry on Moda Operandi. This swept down the runway in luxurious metallics. Kenzo made a big splash with their ocean-themed SS14 show, season I attended shows, appointments, Valentino also featured a beautiful held in a large film complex on the outskirts of Paris. presentations, meetings, dinners and collection inspired by the Roman parties in New York, Milan and Paris. opera, drawing out elements such Some of my favorite shows were Proenza as stately robes, ornate gold jewelry, Schouler, Delpozo, Rosie Assoulin, and and comprising a rich color palette. Christopher Kane’s amazing Prabal Gurung in New York; Aquilano cotton-candy like fiber tops Rimondi and Marni in Milan and Rochas I also loved seeing Daniela Villegas’ looked like beautiful works of and Valentino in Paris. stunning jewelry collection art up close in the showroom in Paris. Many of her pieces New York Fashion Week: integrate real insects, feathers, Diary of a September 5-12 porcupine quills, as well as It is always great to kick off fashion month on pebbles or wood, into the metal 80 home turf in New York and to set the stage and stones, drawing attention 81 with some of my personal favorites. I loved to the need for balance and Fashion Buyer Proenza’s metallic pleated skirts and dresses - respect in nature. Her nature- both elements that ended up being big trends. inspired one-of-a kind jewels By Indre Rockefeller Delpozo was oozing with sophistication and are nothing short of magical. femininity, while Rosie Assoulin in only her second collection managed to stake her claim on One of my favorite evenings in Paris was at the utterly wearable elegance. CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund and Tommy Hilfiger Indre Rockefeller, Moda Operandi’s Director hosted Americans in Paris Dinner at Monsieur of Ready-To-Wear gives us her impressions Right before flying to Europe I attended the New Bleu that I attended with Wes Gordon. of the September shows - the biggest York City Ballet’s Gala. This was a treat for me because as a former professional ballet dancer I When in Paris, I love staying in the First Hotel month in the fashion calendar. welcome every opportunity to see New York City especially in early fall when the city is bustling Ballet. But it also presented me with the perfect with energy. Time to myself is rare occasion to wear one of my favorite looks from during fashion month but it’s Thom Browne always presents his collections in a very theatrical manner making it one of the the Delpozo SS14 runway. wonderful when I can start the day highlights of New York fashion week. by taking an early morning walk Milan Fashion Week: in the Tuileries. September 18-23 In Milan it was the beautiful embellishments that caught my eye on the runway. Marni stood out with floralappliqués , while at Aquilano Rimondi it was the rich jewel tones and beautiful embroidery that caught my eye. For more information visit Rochas (above) was one of my favorite While in Milan, I had the opportunity to SS14 collections in Paris. It was almost modaoperandi.com magical. interview Francisco Costa, Women’s Creative Marni’s blossom-filled SS14 Director of Calvin Klein. He walked me through collection was embodied in beautiful three-dimensional Delpozo captured my imagination in his spring 2014 collection and we had the Rosie Assoulin (left) is one of my floral appliques on skirts New York. The collection was such a favorite new designers. For the second opportunity to discuss the inspirations behind and tops. sophisticated version of femininity and the season in a row she has produced a craftsmanship was impeccable. collection of timeless, easy-to-wear pieces that are certain to be long-term staples in my closet.

Paris is always such an invigorating end to fashion month. It’s beautiful everywhere you turn! Diesel Black Gold Tory Burch DVF Dennis Basso

Victoria Beckham Tommy Hilfiger CLASSIC Glamorous The The Fairy Delpozo EDGE Sport Crop Top Princess

Ensembles with a more classic Glammed-up athletic attire has One of the latest trends of Gowns popped up in several edge were found at Tory been found across the runways for the season is to bare some designer shows this season in what Burch, where the designer several seasons, but this time even skin and show one’s midriff! appeared to be a revisit of the 18th incorporated her interest in travel more designers took to the trend. New York Fashion Week century ball gown. Madrid-based with American wear reminiscent of Luxurious athletic wear featured witnessed lots of shrinking crop label Delpozo showcased ball the 1960s. This was seen through a dress code that was at once tops, bra top and even guests who gowns with elaborate embroidery. Capri pants and shift dresses comfortable, sporty, elegant and picked up on the trend and wore While still a niche luxury brand, imbued with the designer’s bold assuredly feminine. Windbreakers, tiny tops showing a nicely toned Delpozo’s designs were all the rage A Simplistic prints and combined with an track pants and racer backs were stomach. At Tibi, Elizabeth and and much talked about in New Upper East Side polish of simple found at DKNY’s show, while at James, Alexander Wang, Rachel York for their fanciful looks and cardigans and just-above-the-knee Vera Wang sporty chic was seen Zoe, Tommy Hilfiger, Derek Lam, elegance. Ethereal gowns were also 82 flared skirts. At Victoria Beckham with crop tops, the use of mesh BCBG Max Azaria and DVF, found at Marchesa, where models 83 the focus was on the silhouette. and also zip-up track jackets. among others, the crop top made a sauntered in romantic, princess- Turn The designer’s high hemlines and While Tommy Hilfiger is known continuous appearance. The item like dresses. Chiffon gowns were By Rebecca Anne Proctor fitted dresses featured a specific cut for his more boyish wear, his came in all shapes and forms - from embroidered with blue and green N Y and were accompanied by minimal sporty ensembles were dosed with a typical shell-shaped crop top as flowers and decorated with vintage accessories. Even Diesel, a brand elegant slim-fitting pants, crop seen at Richard Chai Love, layered lace details. Dennis Basso’s show known for its street and casual tops and tapered racing jackets. under an oversized jacket, as was also included ball gown ensembles wear, simplified things in a few Sporty vests were worn on top of seen at Rag & Bone, with a zipper, - one in particular was strapless outfits by staying clear of too much short evening dresses at American such as spotted at Helmut Lang, and hugged at the torso while décor and sticking with the basics. Dennis Basso’s show - as if to state or snuggly hugging the torso as featuring a bold black and white There seems to have been One look showed a white skirt that even an elegant dress can be was found at DVF. At BCBG Max floral print. Ralph Lauren’s show a paradigm shift in luxury this incorporating additions of mesh- combined with something more Azaria, the designer chose to forgo boasted a mod line-up of vibrant season. Instead of opting for garments like laser cut fabric coupled with down-to-earth. the skin-hugging silhouette and opt shades, illustrated by his cobalt a white blouse and cardigan. The for a more voluminous shirt in a blue silk gazaar gown worn by with a lot of fluff and accessories, outfit added a certain lightness, ease cropped style with larger trousers Karlie Kloss who walked down the many designers presented ensembles that and minimalism to the collection. slightly gripping at the waist. Also runway in confidence and grace - were minimalist and simple in nature, Other brands such as Helmut seen were more sporty styles an enrapturing sight indeed. returning to a more classic style. Lang and Rebecca Minkoff at Lacoste and Tommy similarly brought things back Hilfiger. The crop top Rebecca Anne Proctor reports. to the basics with simplified gives off an obvious bold

Ralph Lauren outfits, monochrome colors gesture - baring one’s and not too much décor. skin is almost an act Carolina Herrera injected of defiance and self- a lot of diversity into this assuredness against a season’s collection. Her more universal trend. pristine elegance was It is both strong and exemplified in an ivory sexy and here to suede shift, beautiful stay for spring and N Y blouses and a full skirt summer. of viscose with a layer of organza - sophisticated and classic with a slightly modern Tommy Hilfiger edge. Dennis Basso Marchesa BCBG MAXAZARIA Spring / Summer 2014 collections at Milan Fashion Week revealed designs for an increasingly bold, busy yet always feminine Modern modern woman. Wa r es Robert Codero reports. for Prada Emilio Pucci Modern life requires women to play many roles. She’s a mother and entrepreneur, a gallerist and a Architectural Marvels blogger, or a politician and a master yoga instructor. With a design process similar to taking Marni Modern Whatever their activities may be, Milanese flat, two-dimensional blue prints and designers collectively created clothes for today’s turning them into habitable structures, many hyperactive women. If we were to characterize say that fashion, at its highest creative level, is Dolce&Gabbana Alberta Ferretti the Spring / Summer 2014 season’s muse, she’s architecture for the human body. Since the Athletic ACcess Women an athletic architect who loves to work and play. brand’s inception in 1978, Gianfranco Ferre In fashion, to be sporty and stylish was once an By Robert Codero Moschino has been known as the house that the tenets of oxymoron. This season, however, many designers architecture built. Thirty-five years later, now conveyed that women could look active and chic designed by Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron, at the same time. Arguably, the most influential Work and Play 84 the house’s design codes are still largely intact. show was Miuccia Prada’s defiantly loud and Moschino, a storied Italian label celebrating its 85 They are in the form of outsized folds of long utterly confident collection for Prada. Although 30th anniversary, sent clothing down the runway wrap skirts, loose angular tops and origami- much of the clothes didn’t veer much from the fit for various professions like cheeky uniforms for like belts that resembled well-considered design bankable easy-to-wear silhouettes she is known maids and nuns. The label, however, also offered flourishes of modern Japanese buildings.B ut to for, what she lacked in form she made up with a gingham prints in dresses, perfect for country court a younger audience, they paraded these masterful mash up of materials for the powerful, outings. At Tod’s, Alessandra Fachinetti’s strong architectural clothes with devil-like hair-and- modern woman’s wardrobe. This season, those collection of neutrals featured an enticing array make up, which was inspired by Gia Carangi, the signature knee-length shifts now come with of simple, yet über sophisticated workwear beautiful yet troubled American model from the shiny paillettes, outsize rhinestones, striking clothes including powder blue and maroon 1970s and 1980s. mural-inspired prints of faces and rib knit details. men’s inspired power suits, which were also Coats were worn with sports bra-inspired tops found in several collections including Emporio While Piaggi and Citron took a structural and Mary Jane shoes were bejeweled and coated Armani (worn with culottes) and Trussardi. approach, Tomas Maier’s softer sensibility at with rubber, which were paired with colorful But Fachinetti’s eyelet blouses and dresses Bottega Veneta yielded geometric textures from tube socks worn by athletes from the past. And were perfect for a sunset dinner in Mykonos. layering, panelling and intricately tucking fabric, those bags, in delicious colors and prints, were as At Dsquared2, the overwhelming number of which were winning in a variety of voluminous covetable as ever. Other blue-chip houses also got swimsuits and straw hats suggested a saucy beach skirts and gorgeous cocktail dresses. Maier has a into the sporty game. Amid a sea of the brand’s outing. Dolce and Gabbana’s glamorous dresses penchant for using deep saturated colors, which signature graphic prints, Peter Dundas at Pucci have always been a go to for a vacation-loving in Fendi’s colorful collection took somewhat of showed a sweatshirt with leather gym shorts and a Saint Tropez set. This season, the collection a backseat. But Karl Lagerfeld still managed to jumpsuit in shocking orange of parachute silk. At featured photographic prints of ancient Roman capture striking gradients by layering light, silk Gucci, it was decidedly relaxed with transparent columns worn with gladiator belts, which has all chiffon fabrics in various shades of red. Giorgio blouses revealing underwear with seam details the makings to be hits at retail. Alberta Ferretti Armani also took the ethereal route with painterly that resembled tennis dresses. Marni’s minimal, also mined her roots with a nod to the south of hues in skirts and blouses and silk pastel shawls yet experimental looks were topped off by visors, Italy. Ethereal, yet delicate lace dresses and flirty Versace that were folded about the shoulders allowing striped belts and rubber sole platform sandals, eyelet skirts were adorned with ribbon trimmings the fabric to move mellifluously through the air and Aquilano. Rimondi’s sophisticated and and floral embroideries strategically-placed as the models walked. Ferragamo folded skirts lustrous dresses had sweatshirt-inspired stitching around the waist. Speaking of florals, vaguely to create asymmetrical shapes and hemlines, details. If these stalwarts were courting a younger Hawaiian prints of petals were seen in a number Fendi Missoni gave fringe effects in one number by customer, then Philip Plein, a young, Milanese of relaxed, cotton pieces all over MSGM’s highly vertically slashing a series of white silk fabrics upstart designer, is cultivating his. Plein’s outing graphic collection. But the most winning take worn over a black shift, and Versace layered wide had more than a whiff of urban wear with on florals were by No.21. They used the tropical elastic panels in bodices that anchored drop- baseball caps, net tops, black and white referee pattern as cut outs in a salmon jacket, which look waisted skirts for its rock and roll themed outing. shorts and metallic and leather varsity jackets. delightfully decayed. Missoni Celine Chanel Jean Paul Gaultier Alexander McQueen

Paul Ka Yves Saint Laurent artsy floral The Biker Tribal Jacket Tendencies

Fascination The worlds of fine art and While flowery patterns certainly The Biker Jacket was reborn The allure of faraway, exotic fashion have always had seem to be a recurring theme in the this Paris Fashion Week. cultures was captured on the an interesting relationship. realm of fashion, this season took This tough leather item has runway this season. From Africa There’s Yves Saint Laurent’s famous floral to new heights. A romantic become the new must-have of the to Latin American and the Asian Mondrian dress, Schiaparelli’s work air filled with poppies, roses and season, replacing the long popular continent, the Spring/Summer with the farawayBy Rebecca Anne Proctor with Jean Cocteau and Salvador camellias was found on wonderfully boucle tweed cardigan. For his 2014 collections were rich in Dali, among other artists, and flowing shift dresses, skirts and last show at Louis Vuitton, Marc references to folklore, indigenous most recently, the collaborations pants. At Balenciaga, Alexander Jacobs gave the biker jacket an cultures and tribes. This was Marc Jacobs initiated for Louis Wang presented a set of floral pieces elaborate makeover and decorated seen through the incorporation of Vuitton. And here it was once again made with leather embroidered it with everything from flowers, rich embroidery, drapery, graphic - fashion inspired by art was a key with thread and then printed into feathers and precious gems. prints and tribal jewelry in shows 86 trend for the Spring/Summer 2014 a swirling motif onto pants, shorts At Saint Laurent, a brand now by Alexander McQueen; the late 87 collections. and cardigans - a design only to known for its elegant grunge designer was often said to have be made via expert tailoring. Nina style, the leather jacket was found turned to National Geographic Chanel went to great lengths to Ricci’s motif of flowers was seen in a sleeveless version worn in a for his creative inspiration. The state its artistic reverie in Paris, with on ethereal dresses reminiscent of carefree manner with shorts and McQueen outfits were laden Lagerfeld turning the Grand Palais Monet’s rich landscapes. Lebanese short skirts. Elsewhere, Jean-Paul with references to African into a giant art gallery. Each piece designer Elie Saab also picked up Gaultier showed the piece in a headwear, Celt knits and Zulu- on display was laden with references on the motif with white dresses corset-style, enhancing its more type cow tails in what seemed to both to real works of art as well as and pant suits splashed with what seductive appeal. It was also seen at be a nod to the history of ethnic the creations of Mademoiselle Coco. seemed to be a colorful bouquet of Balenciaga with rounded shoulders fashion. Similarly, Givenchy This included an installation of two flowers, adding a romantic touch to and coupled with stiff, high-waisted and Valentino picked up oversized Chanel 2.55 bags, with his feminine designs. shorts. At once bold, modern and the trend, with the latter one situated on the wall and the now distinctly feminine, the biker emphasizing African other on the floor wherein guests jacket is the new modern classic. tribal embroideries in that carried similar bags could take turquoise and coral pictures. The clothes themselves colors on capes, paneled referenced visual art through skirts and ponchos. graffiti totes and backpacks, At Givenchy, designer brushstroke prints and colorful Riccardo Tisci presented A return to something more natural, camellia knits and accessories in the a spring and summer form of sketchbooks. show also with tribal- subdued and organic was seen at Paris inspired designs seen Fashion Week. Gone were the rich At Celine, garments were inspired through bronze fitted embellishments and digital prints that by Brassai’s photographs of Parisian dresses and an earthy have dominated the runways for many graffiti. Knitted tunics and coats palette reminiscent of worn with gauze skirts featured indigenous African seasons and in came a new form of lots of primary colors. Similarly at tribes. Inspiration decoration: exotic culture and fine art. Prada, illustrations by the likes of for this Paris Rebecca Anne Proctor reports. Jeanne Detallante, Gabriele Specter Fashion Week thus A and El Marc were found printed seemed greatly to be drawn from on looks and also on the walls. afar - uniting an ever-increasing Nina Ricci This new trend promises a spring globe-trotting culture through and summer wardrobe laden with Balenciaga contemporary fashion. painterly accessories. Valentino Louis Vuitton Fa ll Trends Simplistic Glamour

88 By Sonia Abdulbaki 89

Left to Right Top to Bottom: Must-haves for the Fall/Winter season of 2013 reflect a season of ladylike Carolina Herrera, Oscar De La Renta, nostalgia intertwined with modern aesthetics. Characterized by simple, Lanvin, Donna Karen, Ingie Paris, Biyan, Ruthie Davis, Andrew GN, retro, bold print and ultra-feminine styles, the new womenswear trends Balenciaga, Chloe reveal a woman who can take retro, lady-like styles and immerse them into contemporary femininity. This is someone who can easily go back to the basics and create an outfit by layering it for chic creativity and personal interpretation. Looks come with clean finishings, are flawlessly cut, cropped and oversized tees. The styles also include floral, which represents the classic beauty of a woman with a luxurious and refined touch.

This season’s conservative approach might be mirrored by the global economic turmoil, empowering the lady-like fashion icons such as Michelle Obama and Kate Middleton. It is inspired by Baroque and Victorian dimensions yet presented with a modern structure. A color palette choice from the collection is white, representing the season’s fashion contrasts. All items are available at Saks Fifth Avenue Department store in Dubai and Bahrain.

All items are available at Saks Fifth Avenue Department store in Dubai and Bahrain. 90 FASHION 91

Royal Serenade North African Adventure Cinematic Tales 92 Royal 93 Serenade

Extravagantly patterned dresses in rich fabrics of silk, velvet and meticulous embroidery are showcased amidst the colorful tiled walls, majestic gardens and majlis areas of the Royal Mansour. This is where Moroccan extravagance meets high fashion.

Photographer Nicolas Menu Fashion Stylist Santa Bevacqua Fashion Assistant Gabriela Sena Make up Corinne Gues @ B-Agency Hair Vinz @ B-Agency Model Stefania Ivanescu

Long Silk Dress Gucci Gold Leather Shoes Christian Louboutin 94 95

Silk Coat, Silk Dresses with Fringes & Silk Embroidered Trousers Silk Strapless Dress Covered with Sequins Dolce & Gabbana DRIES VAN NOTEN Shoes Christian Louboutin 96 97

Brown Silk Dress with Sequins PRADA Velvet Shirt & Silk Embroidered Skirt With Sequins D2 Squared Shoes RenÉ Caovilla 98 99

Velvet Dress Alberta Ferretti Silk Embroidered & Sequined Knee Length Dress Elie Saab Shoes Christian Louboutin 100 101

Embroidered Wool Mini Dress Valentino Jacket & Trousers GUCCI Vibrant street scenes and market places make up a backdrop laden North with extreme contrasts in Marrakech. Warm fall and winter coats, elegant boots African and seductive robes further enlighten this otherworldly Adventure North African abode.

102 103

Photographer Nicolas Menu Fashion Stylist Santa Bevacqua Fashion Assistant Gabriela Sena Make up Corinne Gues @ B-Agency Hair Vinz @ B-Agency Model Stefania Ivanescu

Cashmere Sleeveless Coat VICTORIA BECKHAM Cuissards CELINE 104 105

Cashmere Coat SONIA RYKIEL Cuissards CELINE Mustard Wool Coat BOTTEGA VENETA Bags from Marrakesh Bazaar Cuissards CELINE 106 107

Wool Coat with Fur Sleeves and Collar PRADA Lace Body AGENT PROCATEUR Cuissards CELINE Shoes CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN 108 109

Cashmere and Wool Coat PAULSMITH Cuissards CELINE inematic � Tales A subdued and dimly-lit private cinema in the opulent Jumeirah Zabeel Saray hotel serves as the location for our Dubai photo shoot. 110 111 Through images akin to the luscious texture of an oil painting we showcase a seductive selection of spring and summer gowns, leather attire and light shimmery fabrics.

Photography by Greg Adamski Styling by Dresscode by Farah Makeup by Toni Malt Hair style by Eddie Sanyer Model Aida @MMGEventz

Python suit GUCCI Belt worn as necklace CHANEL Pumps CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN 112 113

Top, Gloves, Skirt & Shoes DIOR 114 115

Dress BALENCIAGA at Harvey Nichols Necklace MARNI Earrings RANJANA KHAN at Saks Fifth Avenue Dress & Ring in hair NINA RICCI Shoes CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN 116 117

Dress GUCCI Shoes CHRISTIAN DIOR 118 119

Dress ANDREW GN at Boutique 1 Dress MARC JACOBS Bolero as neckpiece NINA RICCI Necklace LOUIS VUITTON Gloves MARNI 120 121

Dress JENNY PACKHAM at Boutique 1 Tail coat BALENCIAGA Earrings CHANEL Skirt DONNA KARAN at Saks Fifth Avenue Hat Stylist’s own Bangle KENNETH JAY LANE at Harvey Nichols 122 123

Top and trousers CATHERINE MALANDRINO Earrings OSCAR DE LA RENTA at Saks Fifh Avenue Pumps CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN 124 SURRENDER 125

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Can a detox really be life changing? Laura Snook experiences the famed Chenot Detox at the Palace Merano, Italy to find out.

Many places claim to be ‘life changing’ - typical the famed Miss Upton, but something of the ready to be subjected to this prized rigmarole of marketing jargon seemingly designed to draw sort. The epitome of the classic bombshell - a Palace Merano’s Chenot Detox. in poor individuals who don’t bother to scroll shining beacon of hope. “Welcome to Italy,” down the pages of Google. I was thus left a bit announced my driver Fabiano in his thick What is it that attracts guests to the acclaimed dubious when researching Palace Merano and accent. Indeed I thought, as I questioned detox of this luxury hotel? I soon discovered its various ‘life changing’ reviews. whether detoxing could perhaps create such a that the majority of guests were all avid 130 131 work of art as the woman I had just seen. On my followers of Henri Chenot. A French expert in As an avid health devotee, a ‘detoxing getaway’ way to experience what Tatler and Conde Nast Chinese medicine, naturopathy, and a pioneer is probably not the first idea that springs to mind have labeled as the “Most Life-Changing Spa of bio-energetic psychology, Chenot created the when considering long-term health solutions. in the World” along with “The Best Medical method of Biontology - a philosophy that aims However, after three years of living in Dubai, my Thermal and Natural Spa,” I guess I was about to rebalance our meridians, return us to our daily rituals of blueberries, water fresh from the to find out. optimum weight and combat accelerated ageing. coconut, and a gastronomic selection of organic I was definitely intrigued. delights muddled with 4.5 liters of water, I was The entrance of the Palace Merano exuded still feeling like something just wasn’t quite a neoclassical opulence through columns of At 8 o’clock the following day my daily detox right. So, without too much procrastination I marble and endless rows of chandeliers and treatments began, consisting of massages, decided to give Palace Merano a chance and see gold. I had arrived casually dressed in Reebok hydro-mud therapy, energy treatments, doctor what all the raving reviews were about. After tights and trainers and started to wonder if I visits, dietetic assessments and the infamous all, how difficult can meridian clearing in the was a bit out of place. detox diet. I was visiting for only five days, even mountains of Italy really be? though a standard Chenot Detox usually lasts This thought was quickly over-ruled when for seven to 10 days. And so my journey to the ultimate detox guests clothed in crisp, milky-white robes began destination began. As I drove away from the to emerge. They wore no designer hand bags, no From your initial program, you are welcome Verona Airport, I passed by a roadside billboard haute couture garments and no expensive jewels to make additions, dependent on your needs. covered with a gorgeously buxom blonde. Not - there were just individuals and their robes, These are thoroughly discussed with your own

Entering the Palace Merano, its grandeur and neoclassical opulence immediately confirmed this was where the A-Listers P and jetsetters of the world come to cleanse and renew. personally assigned doctor. I was recommended The rest of the daily program was dedicated After spending five days at Palace Merano I Purifying Diet, a diet that uses no salt, no sugar to have additional treatments of osteopathy, to receiving energy treatments, maintaining began to uncover what sets Chenot’s Biontology and is enriched with nutritious ingredients. colon-hydro therapy and oxygen-ozone therapy. the strict detox diet, and completing any other Philosophy apart from other detox methods. “When detoxing, we need to look at food first,” It was also suggested that I include the extra- extra-curricular activities I had chosen. In short this is where the best of the best explained Dominique Chenot. “35 years ago, curricular activities of Pilates, Nordic walking reside. Chenot and his wife have dedicated Henri gave me a list of ‘allowed’ foods. At the and the esteemed Dominique Chenot cooking Something I particularly enjoyed about the over 40 years to creating the optimal cocktail time, his favorite was seaweed, and so I started class, a one hour interactive tutorial dedicated Chenot Detox was the level of analysis and of disciplines including: Anthropology, to experiment. We ended up with our entire to teaching guests the philosophy behind the thorough investigation that is conducted prior Philosophy, Chinese Medicine, Bio-Energetic kitchen covered in it. Reels and reels of it. We Hypo-toxic Purifying Diet along with the to commencement. From bone tests to body Psychology, Naturopathy, Psychology and learned very quickly that it expands with water!” different cooking methods employed. composition analysis, blood tests, hormone Human Sciences. Looking at Henri’s wife, But why are the portions so small? I pondered. tests, urine samples and energy evaluations, a Dominique Chenot, who is in charge of the “It’s this deprivation that helps to stimulate the After the first day, I soon fell into a delightful team of top medical professionals and dieticians Aesthetic and Dietetic Biontology Department, detoxing process,” she explained. “The body rhythm. I’d wake up early, pull back the curtains determine exactly how your body is performing. this was not a philosophy to be challenged. reaches into its own resources, furthermore But why are and step out to my grand balcony overlooking Specialists thus discover what your body requires drawing on stored energies, of which it begins the portions so small? the continuous unfolding of the Italian hills in order to achieve the ultimate cleanse and Combining the principles of Chinese medicine to excrete.” Right, so the famed ‘less is more’ beyond. I would then trundle down for my detox rebalance. This is not a mass-produced, one size with the most advanced methods in Western concept is in fact very true to its word. breakfast with a skip in my step, always to be fits all program; rather every individual is treated medicine, the idea behind Biontology is to “It’s this deprivation that welcomed by the pleasant rings of the waiter’s on a case-by-case basis, and provided with a create a balance between mind and body, yin As I neared the end of my stay I began to reflect helps to stimulate the 132 ‘buongiorno signora!’ program and treatments specific to their needs. and yang, to minimize the problems brought on the question I set out with: Is Palace Merano 133 on by modern living: stress, tiredness, toxicity really life-changing? I now boasted a leaner detoxing process.” From there I would head down to the Spa zone, Armed with the confidence that I was in fine and their consequences. The result of this is frame, slimmer thighs and was filled with healthy whereupon my massage therapist, known as health and just needed a little tweak here and the elimination of toxins and, consequently, the knowledge. I had learned invaluable lessons Explains Dominique Chenot the ‘Marvelous Margherita’, would work her there, I was yet to find out why my lifestyle back stimulation of cellular regeneration. about how to maintain the quality and nutrition magic. Blissfully indulgent, each daily session in Dubai had me often feeling so lethargic. My of food as well as theories behind digestion was dedicated to eliminating my body’s energy personalized evaluation soon revealed that my It was the daily portions of food that really and how best to absorb a food’s nutrients. Yes, blocks using cupping glasses while moving what kidneys were in overdrive. It turns out that astounded me. These included dishes such as Palace Merano was life-changing. seemed to be an imaginary channel underneath drinking 4.5 liters of water a day might have spelt ravioli with vegetables and walnuts, and my skin. been a bit much for them to handle! pearls of tapioca with orange and poppy, all of which were presented with artistic beauty. This hour-long massage was always followed Additionally, a 3D graphical analysis of my Admittedly, the portions were ‘tinkerbellishly’ by what is referred to as the Hydro-Energetic organs’ energies highlighted that the right side small, but the taste and the sight compensated Cure, a daily treatment that acts on the body’s of my brain was completely white. Apparently for the size and had my senses in overdrive. lymphatic and blood circulation and involves the color white means an overactive level of being lathered with algae and clay, then left activity. This reading meant that I’m anxious, The Dietetic Biontology Department of Chenot to marinate before being hosed down with an emotional and over think things- something has undergone years of culinary trial and error Malmightily powerful hydro jet. that I surely need to change. to create what is referred to as the Hypo-toxic For more information visit palace.it A New Journey in Scent By Rebecca Anne Proctor

“My beloved Florence, Roberto Cavalli has launched his first scent the love for the tradition for men - Just Cavalli for Him. The new fragrance plays off the of fine Florentine leather idea of strength, virility and grace. Rebecca Anne Proctor speaks to craftsmanship and the Cavalli about his new launch, Italian heritage and his continuous passion that is breathed admiration for the city of Dubai. through the artisanal workshops of my city have With a long list of enrapturing women’s artist by discipline, Cavalli trained at the School perfumes, acclaimed Italian designer Roberto of Fine Art in Florence. Given the variety of areas consistently been a source Cavalli has finally launched one just for men. within the fashion industry that Cavalli’s work of inspiration for me.” ‘Just Cavalli for Him’ is a leather fragrance has covered as well as his own artistic upbringing, Roberto Cavalli with a top note of pimento, a middle one of it is of no surprise to learn of his appreciation of vetiver and a base note of leather. Alluring and the visual arts and the result they have had on his instinctively familiar, the scent is created for designs. “I have always liked all forms of art and a man who is self-assured, charming and acts have consistently been fascinated by the visions without restraint or inhibitions. This is a man of different artists,” he says. “I love seeing how who is at once bold and spontaneous and takes they are able to transform reality into fantasy.” life as it comes to him. The ability to transform reality into fantasy is 134 135 Like Cavalli’s distinctive designs, this is a certainly inherent in all of Cavalli’s creative perfume that will exude the innate personality of endeavors. The designer’s mark on the city of the wearer. The scent opens with a note of wild Dubai is a particular case in point. In 2009, he pimento symbolizing seduction and virility. This opened the Cavalli Club, a hip nightspot known is closely followed by a sophisticated central note for its opulent interiors, Italian cuisine and jet-set of vetiver wood, which provides an earthy and guests. His presence in the UAE now includes smoky quality to the perfume. The rich base note stores in Falcon Tower, Mall of the Emirates and of leather heightens the depth and voluptuous The Dubai Mall. He has also recently opened a quality of the fragrance. ‘junior’ store in the Mall of the Emirates that offers merchandise for children and teenagers up Perfume making is just one of Cavalli’s creative elegant man with a strong personality,” explains to the age of 16. “The Middle East today is one of ventures. “I’ve always loved exploring different Cavalli. “He is fearless.” The ad print was shot the most strategic markets and Dubai represents artistic avenues,” says Cavalli. “And I love the by Mario Sorrenti and envisions the embrace the ‘window to the Middle East.’ I believe greatly processes involved in making fragrances. I of two lovers after what seems to have been a in the potential of this market,” he says. Cavalli wanted to give my clients something young passionate chase for reconciliation imbued with can regularly be spotted in Dubai partying at and irresistible and the ‘Just Cavalli for Him’ the trademark Cavalli animal print, while the TV his eponymous club where he recently hosted perfume is exactly the epitome of that as well as campaign shows the pursuit of the two lovers in a a birthday party for his wife Eva. The Middle the idea of love for life itself.” The fragrance was way that is remarkably Cavalli in vision and style East continues to be a source of inspiration for conceived by master perfumers Domitille Bertier - at once earthy and serendipitously seductive. his work. “I have many expansion plans for the and Clément Gabarry of the International Middle East. But I love surprises and I do Flavors and Fragrances Company (IFF). “The Since his foray into fashion forty years ago, not want to unveil them just yet! You’ll process to find the right scent was very long,” Cavalli has consistently attained new creative just have to wait and see.” explains Cavalli. “We had many trials, but as heights with his label while also remaining true soon as I smelt this particular fragrance I fell in to his Italian heritage. “My beloved Florence, the love with it.” love for the tradition of fine Florentine leather craftsmanship and the passion that is breathed Moreover, the perfume’s character is revealed through the artisanal workshops of my city have All images courtesy of Roberto through an evocative campaign shot with rising consistently been a source of inspiration for me,” Cavalli. The Just Cavalli for young Brazilian model Marlon Texeira. The face he says. “Florence, and the unique character of Him fragrance is available at all R of the new Just Cavalli for Him, Texeira exudes Italian craftsmanship, will always be among my Sephora outlets in the Middle a casual elegance and natural sense of style. The biggest inspirations. Such inspirations can be East. For more information visit c ‘Just Cavalli for Him’ man is a contemporary and found in each one of my collections.” A visual cavalli.com or sephora-me.com Quickly becoming one of the I was still a little reserved, worried that on my most popular diet trends, the Fast Diet sheds pounds ‘fasting’ days I would turn into a food obsessed and supposedly has a ton of health benefits. demon, foaming at the mouth while dreaming of donuts but with no energy to actually go and get Frankie Rozwadowska tries it out herself. one. So I caught up with Mimi Spencer, a top THE London journalist and Dr. Mosley’s co-writer of The Fast Diet book. 45 years old, she looks like Forget Atkins, Dukan, The South Beach Diet What drew me to the diet wasn’t just the obvious she’s in her 30’s, and is lean and slim having lost and surviving off cabbage soup - there’s a weight loss, but the other ways it’s said to boost 23 pounds since starting the diet in October last new weight-loss plan in town, which not only your body and health. Yogis, monks and numerous year. In fact, she’s lost so much weight that she now promises to rid you of those excess pounds, but religions have recognized the benefits of fasting only fasts once a week to maintain her fabulous also boasts a staggering list of health benefits. for centuries, and it’s used in Indian Ayurvedic figure. After trying (and failing) numerous diets The idea is that for two days a week you ‘fast’, medicine, Chinese Medicine and South (ring any bells?), she was attracted to the idea of eating one-fourth of your daily calorie intake American Medicine to aid the detoxification and only watching what she ate for two days a week (500 calories for women, 600 for men) and on cleansing processes. It’s therefore no wonder that instead of denying herself her favorite foods all the other five days you can eat what you want. after health tests revealed Dr. Michael Mosley, the time - the main reason she thinks The Fast That means cakes, chips and chocolate - if you an award-winning British medical journalist, Diet has proven so popular. “The success lies in really want it. And let’s be honest, who doesn’t? wasn’t in the best of shape, he decided to compliance - the idea that you are not dieting all Hailed as the diet for foodies, it’s revolutionized investigate fasting further - testing the theory the time, so it’s psychologically far easier to do the way people eat and think about food, simply that drastically cutting back on calories can than a traditional long-haul diet regime. There by dedicating two non-consecutive days a week affect your health. Not only did he lose a lot of are no complicated rules to follow; the strategy to ‘fasting’. The Fast Diet book has topped the weight (one stone in five weeks), his post-fasting is flexible, comprehensible and user-friendly. UK’s bestseller list and word is rapidly spreading test results were staggeringly different. His blood There’s no daily slog of calorie control - none of around the world of glucose levels (which the boredom, frustration or serial deprivation FAST its success. It’s even “There are no had been borderline that characterizes conventional diet plans. It’s reported that stars like diabetic) were back to part-time, so you never feel serially deprived, and Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez complicated rules to follow; normal, his cholesterol you will still enjoy the foods you like - some of Diet the strategy is flexible, Forget Atkins, Dukan, levels (previously high the time. Tomorrow is another day - when you By Frankie Rozwadowska The South Beach comprehensible and enough to warrant eat normally without worrying about calorie Diet and surviving off user-friendly.” medication), were down counting.” 136 cabbage soup - there’s to a healthy range, 137 a new weight-loss plan Mimi Spencer and his IGF-1 levels She advised I fill up on lots of nutrient rich in town, which not only (insulin-like growth proteins and vegetables on my fast days, as this promises to rid you of factor hormone) stayed satiates hunger and won’t cause a peak in blood those excess pounds, but low. This is vital sugar levels. Also, it is crucial that I listen to my also boasts a staggering for being slim and body. Some days you just won’t feel up to fasting. list of health benefits. The idea is that for two healthy because, as its name suggest, IGF-1 has Don’t stress, do it the next day. That’s the beauty days a week you ‘fast’, eating one-fourth of your growth-promoting effects on almost every cell of it - you can pick and choose the days that work daily calorie intake (500 calories for women, in the body, keeping cells constantly active. It’s for you. 600 for men) and on the other five days you important to have sufficient IGF-1 levels when can eat what you want. That means cakes, chips you are young and growing, but in later life high So that was that. I’ve now been on the 5:2 diet for and chocolate - if you really want it. And let’s levels lead to accelerated aging, diabetes and just over two weeks, and although my first ‘fast’ be honest, who doesn’t? Hailed as the diet for diseases - including cancer. was by no means easy (do not use it as an excuse foodies, it’s revolutionized the way people eat to consume everything in sight the night before, and think about food, simply by dedicating two At the University of Southern California, bad idea) I’ve realized that hunger is easily non-consecutive days a week ongoing research by Professor Valter managed, the pangs pass and on my ‘feed days’ to ‘fasting’. The Fast Diet Longo (whom Dr. Mosley worked I (amazingly) am not tempted to binge. Herbal book has topped the UK’s closely with) has also shown that a tea, miso soup and carrot sticks are saviors, as bestseller list and word is number of repair genes switch on is The Fast Diet Cook Book, where they’ve rapidly spreading around when IGF-1 levels drop. So to look kindly counted the calories for you. I’ve lost four the world of its success. better, cut your risk of illness and pounds, am able to go about my daily activities It’s even reported that live longer - intermittent fasting with the same, if not more, energy than before, stars like Beyoncé, Jennifer seems to do the trick. It lowers my cravings for junk food are decreasing, and I’m Lopez and Hugh Jackman blood pressure, reduces the risk becoming more aware of how I eat. I’d almost go are fans of intermittent of Polycystic Ovarian Syndrome, so far as to say I look forward to my fast days. fasting. So is the 5:2 for asthma and mental illnesses Maybe. It’s early days, but so far The Fast Diet you? Well, I decided to give (including Alzheimer’s and and I are fast becoming friends. it a go and see if I really could Parkinson’s), while increasing have my cake, eat it, and lose focus, concentration, mental weight too. clarity and, of course, fat burning. For more information visit thefastdiet.co.uk It is not just a saying or an old wives’ tale - sleep really does make you more beautiful. Heidi Klum gets 10 hours a night, while Penelope Cruz clocks up 12 - and Eva Mendes claims she would get the gold medal if sleep became an Olympic sport. Those glorious hours when we are dreaming of magical lands or far-away places are when our skin goes through vital processes of restoration and repair, and when our metabolic rate rises to replenish dead cells at the surface. Today sleep is seen as a luxury and not a necessity, and a whopping one in three people suffer from sleep problems. The result? We’re turning into a world of puffy-eyed, energy-less zombies, surviving on sugar and Starbucks to make it through the day. Not a pretty sight.

A lack of sleep can lead to a startling array of health electricity and electronics.” This means watching the core of the body. But while you’re dreaming Moroccan cedrus oil blends issues, from depression and anxiety to weight TV or checking your emails before you turn out away, the parasympathetic nervous system takes beautifully with olive oil, gain, heart disease, high blood pressure, diabetes the light. Even sending a text message or a quick over - directing the flow of blood to the skin. Bulgarian Lavender and and memory loss. Most of us need an average of tweet can impact your night’s sleep, as electronics This increase of oxygen in the skin’s cells allows evening primrose oil in eight hours of sleep per night, but this can range and technology stimulate the brain - switching it receptors in the blood vessels to obtain amino Molton Brown’s Sleep Sleeping from 6-10 hours depending on the individual. on, not off. Artificial light prevents the release acid molecules, which help drain toxins and Cedrus Body Oil. Deeply If you wake up feeling groggy and are in need of the sleep-promoting hormone, melatonin, and fluids whilst building collagen. This means no fragrant, its restful aromas of a nap come the afternoon, it’s safe to say you enhances alertness, not exactly what you want puffiness and instead, supple, smooth skin. Not aid relaxation and help your are not getting enough shut-eye and we all know when you’re about to go to sleep. Dr. Khaldoun enough shut-eye also means higher levels of stress senses to unwind while what that feels like. It’s hard to concentrate, you strongly advises avoiding these activities, hormones, which cause increased inflammation your body is cocooned in have less energy and motivation to do anything, replacing them with relaxing experiences like and the acceleration of aging and worsening a calming and nourishing Beauty you feel more emotional and irritable and you are having a warm bath, reading a book or listening of blemishes. It also reduces the skin’s ability oriental oil. Available at less likely to want to exercise. If just one night to music - allowing both our bodies and minds to to stay hydrated, making for a dull, lackluster Molton Brown Dubai Mall of too little sleep can have this effect, you can slow down and start the resting process. complexion. & Faces

138 By Frankie Rozwadowska imagine the damage repeated sleep loss can have 139 on your mind and body. Sleep boosts immunity Dr. Khaldoun also believes diet plays a key factor So shut down, turn off and get some shuteye. For a perfectly perfumed pillow guaranteed and gives your cells time to repair themselves as in how we sleep. In a world of processed, sugar- You’ll feel better, look younger and be healthier to send you into a sublime slumber, try the “Sleep that knits up the raveled it’s when our growth hormone is secreted. This laden meals and coffee shops on every corner, for it - turning you into a Sleeping Beauty fit for L’Occitane Aromachologie Pillow Mist. A blend sleeve of care,” said Shakespeare’s Macbeth. hormone is anabolic, meaning it helps to build up it’s little wonder that what we are putting in a fairy-tale. What a dream. of 100 percent natural essential oils, including And sleep does to care of us when we are unraveled. proteins needed to repair cells and tissues. Sleep our bodies is affecting how we are turning them lavender, tea tree, and geranium. It also contains also allows your brain the time to ‘reorganize’ off. Before bed avoid sweets and caffeine, but A session with Dr Khaldoun Mozahem softening lime blossom extract to calm, soothe And yet so many of us have trouble getting enough sleep. thoughts and emotions, keeping us mentally also heavy, fatty meals. Consuming a big stodgy costs 600AED. For more information visit and ease away anxiety and stress - helping to Frankie Rozwadowska reports on how necessary sleep balanced and physically healthy. meal at night means your digestive system goes americancenteruae.com promote a peaceful, repairing sleep. Available at is for our overall mental and physical wellbeing. into overdrive - likely to lead to a disturbance in all L’Occitane Boutiques A ‘normal’ night’s sleep is divided into three sleep. 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Available at reduces feelings of exhaustion. Available at Neal’s lifestyles we lead and the impact of technology, system is in control - keeping blood flow near The Product House and selected spas Yard Dubai Mall The Power of Positivity A man is By Frankie Rozwadowska ‘Modern day life is filled with constant stress. We often forget the power of our thoughts to but the product channel positive energy to get us through difficult situations. Frankie Rozwadowska explores how of his thoughts. necessary it is to train our minds to focus on the good in order to combat the bad. What he thinks,

Is the glass half full or half empty’? We all answer to Noora, a big reason why “social media and each case, your brain closes off from the outside he becomes.” ‘half full’, but is that because we know that’s technology impacts our everyday lives. Social world and focuses on the negative emotions of

Mahatma Gandhi what we should say? The reality is, the majority media allows us to compare our lives to others. fear, anger, and stress. Negative emotions prevent of us would say ‘half empty’, but we know that It’s easy to look in the mirror or a magazine and your brain from seeing the other options and how we answer this question is a strong reflection tell yourself you aren’t good enough, that you’ll choices that surround you.” on how we look at life. Negative thoughts act as never be that pretty or that skinny. When we a barrier - an inhibitor that stops us from seeing constantly compare ourselves to others we enter Both Kobty and Christensen believe meditation and experiencing new things while preventing into a vicious egotistical cycle; we constantly is one of the most effective ways to channel us from dealing with and adapting to everyday feel the need to achieve more, change ourselves positivity and clear out negative thoughts, situations or coping with stress. They also affect instead of focusing on what we have. This will especially in difficult or stressful situations. It our health, with research proving that positive never prove self-satisfying.” helps us focus on learning to be in the present thinking creates lower levels of distress and moment. As Christensen says, “very often we 140 depression, reduced risk of illness, and longer It’s in these situations that positive thinking can are going around at 100 kilometers an hour, 141 life expectancy. So why don’t we want to say ‘half radically change how we feel about ourselves not even conscious of our thoughts or how full’? Can we re-train our minds to become more and, consequently, about our life. Instead of we’re doing in any one minute. Meditation and positive? We can if we want. focusing on the negative in a situation, focus on mindfulness slows us down, making us aware the positive. Noora uses the example of someone of the now - allowing us to live in the present The brain is extraordinarily powerful, responsible who discovers they didn’t get their desired job. and not in the past or future.” If you are new to for everything from keeping our hearts beating “The positive thinker is more likely going to meditation, Kobty suggests starting with a simple and our limbs moving to managing thoughts think of ways he can do better and resolve the process, “all it takes is for you to relax and allow and emotions. There are numerous sayings situation, whereas a pessimist is likely to dwell peaceful thoughts to enter your mind. Use words suggesting the power of thought, for example on the situation and do nothing to help himself.” or sentences that are meaningful to you, for ‘mind over matter’ or ‘you can do anything example ‘I am a good person’, ‘I have people that you set your mind to.’ If our mind controls By adapting our attitudes in this way, we love me.’” everything, and we control our mind - then we subconsciously open the door to many new and hold the key to our happiness. It’s all about The exciting opportunities. Sabina Christensen, a Kobty also suggests making a list of the things Law of Attraction, the principle that ‘like attracts Personal Development Consultant at LifeWorks in your life that cause you stress according to like.’ If you think positively, positive things and Dubai, strongly believes that “the benefits of the level of anxiety they cause. This helps you people will generally come your way. Likewise positive emotions don’t stop after a few minutes of recognize what you find difficult and to focus negative thoughts bring about negative people good feelings subside. In fact, the biggest benefit on positive ways to overcome them. Christensen and experiences. that positive emotions provide is an enhanced recommends writing down positive experiences ability to build skills and develop resources for every day. A study published in the Journal of Yet the challenge is that positive thinking is use later in life.” Therefore, negative thoughts Research in Personality showed that those who easier said than done. We get stuck in a rut, shut you off from the world, limiting what you wrote about a positive experience every day, picking up bad habits and allowing stress or see, altering your perception of the good in any for three consecutive days, versus those who negative people to affect our state of mind. Noora situation and the options available to bring wrote about a control topic, had more positive Kobty, a Counseling Psychologist at the German about beneficial change. F“ or example, when experiences and better mood levels. So set aside P Neuroscience Center in Dubai, advises that to you’re stressed out about everything you have to some time for yourself, surround yourself with change our way of thinking we must assess our get done today, you may find it hard to actually people who believe in you - and soon you will ‘self talk’, our everyday thoughts. “It’s how you start anything because you’re paralyzed by how too. When you’re faced with a tough or stressful see yourself and things around you. If you realize long your to-do list has become. Or, if you feel situation, use the power of your mind and positive you’re a pessimist, then that’s where to start - bad about not exercising or eating healthy, all thoughts to get you through. Soon that glass learning to change your self thoughts.’” This is you think about is how little willpower you have, won’t just be half full - it will be overflowing. something we are all guilty of, and according how you’re lazy and don’t have any motivation. In 142 Enchantment 143

Artistically Redefined coming of age in New York A Saudi Arabian Trickster From Les Russes with Love A Central Asian Fixation Contemporary art and fashion come together once again for Net-a-Porter’s Art Capsul, a project that invited some of the biggest names in the art world to create bespoke garments exclusively for the fashion website. Rebecca Anne Proctor reports.

The intimate relationship between exhibitions alongside visual artists, such as fashion and art has long been noted. Terence Koh. From Schiapparelli, Salvatore Dali, Coco Chanel, Jean Cocteau, Marc Jacobs, Louis While the premise of Art Capsul is Vuitton and many others, fashion and inspirational, what is perhaps even more Contemporary art seem to be more closely pivotal is why an online fashion retailer such joined than ever before. In recent years, as Net-a-Porter wanted to launch such an we’ve seen a host of luxury powerhouses initiative. “We wanted to bring artists and sponsor Contemporary artworks and haute couture together to create wearable Artistically projects around the globe. These include artwork,” says Holli Rogers, Net-a-Porter’s Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama’s collection Fashion Director. “Our customers are for Louis Vuitton last year, Christian Dior’s always our main source of inspiration, and collaboration with Chinese artists and with this limited edition collection, we’ve most recently, Damien Hirst and Miuccia been able to showcase these garments in an Prada’s Doha desert juice bar. Now we have exhibition context, bringing our customers 144 Redefined another fruitful collaboration between the together with collectors and people from 145 two artistic genres: revered online fashion the art world.” Moreover, the pieces that retailer Net-a-Porter has enlisted some of were created were each specially-crafted in today’s most celebrated artists including resemblance to the best of haute couture. Marina Abramovic, George Condo, “We also wanted to help produce really Terence Koh, Vik Muniz and Mickalene extraordinary pieces; thousands of hours Thomas to envision bespoke garments that of craftsmanship went into the making will be available on a unique, made-to- of these garments,” adds Rogers. The order basis, exclusively on the fashion site. garments showcased elements found in the artists’ best-known works. For example, The Art Capsul is part art exhibition and you can expect gold leaf from Marina part capsul collection. Curated by Stacy Abramovic, pearl motifs from Koh, silk Engman, a curator based in New York and screens from George Condo, photographic known for her work bridging fine art with prints from Vik Muniz and Swarovski other art forms, including music and film, crystals from Mickalene Thomas. the Art Capsul showcases elements found in the artists’ most renowned artworks. The artists themselves were selected on “Art Capsul celebrates originality, vision, the basis of their work and what they could and uniqueness inherent in the forms and bring to the aesthetic of an haute couture traditions of haute couture and art,” says garment. “The aim was to select different Engman. “Artists give life to their artwork artists who work in various primary through their own distinct vision, and this mediums and for each to bring their own special art project series celebrates this unique and personal aesthetic to their as an extension of their existing vision piece,” explains Rogers. “Stacy selected and practice.” The project is very much the following artists based on this brief; an extension of Engman’s work, which Condo is mostly known for his paintings, has presented fashion designers, such as Muniz for his composed photographs, Karl Lagerfeld and Marc Jacobs, in her Abramovic for her performance work, and

Opening Page: Elle gown designed by Mickalene Thomas. This Page, Above to Below: Peau d’Anne Gown by Vik Muniz. NBy Rebecca Anne Proctor A Koh, a multimedia artist, works in sculpture and Renowned for his oil paintings, Condo’s piece installations.” Thus the staple elements in each is entitled Opus 1 (Babydoll, Park A) and draws artist’s oeuvre ultimately were reflected in the inspiration from his Nannies series. The garment clothes that were created. alludes to a Swiss chalet nanny and is in the form of an urban parka jacket from the back, while Abramovic’s Energy Clothes are a case in point. on the front it is a silk-chiffon baby doll dress Using 100 percent silk taffeta parachute fabric that is almost transparent and trimmed with fox in seven colors with seven magnets per piece, fur. The title is significant as it marks the artist’s Abramovic created first foray into fashion - Opus, meaning “work” seven in Latin, and the number designating it as the parachute first work. silk jumpsuits, Working primarily in photography and collage, inspired by the Thomas’s oeuvre is consistently preoccupied with seven phases of the the subject of beauty. She is known for exploring moon. notions of femininity and identity within Each jumpsuit includes seven contemporary culture and the inherent beauty pockets, each containing a small magnet that can be found within everyday scenes of to denote energy points in the body. The garments popular culture. For Art Capsul, she created Elle, effectively coordinate each day of the week with her first textile pattern in a digital vector image planetary coloring, while also emphasizing the file. The piece was inspired by the fabric of a dress relationship between the colors that we wear and that her grandmother gave her as a child. The their influences on our emotions and every day pattern has been superimposed onto a duchess actions. “Energy clothes are the simplest and satin gown that Thomas hand-sculpted, before most lucid expression of the theme of energy I she added paint strokes to the underskirt. The have ever presented,” says the artist. “Magnets, gown is encrusted with Swarovski rhinestones. colors and body sites transpire as conductors of “Art Capsul light, lucidity and energy.” Abramovic’s outfits Net-a-Porter’s Art Capsul epitomizes the create a systemic relationship between everyday marriage of art and fashion. Perhaps the most celebrates originality, garments and the cycles of the universe. distinct difference between the two realms vision, and uniqueness 146 is that a fashion item is functional - it has an inherent in the forms and 147 An artist who is highly ornate in artistic vision everyday purpose, whereas the art object, as traditions of haute and craft, Koh’s work spans a variety of artistic innovative and creative as it is, serves solely for genres from epic operas to complex installations the pleasure of our eye. Here are artworks that couture and art.” and sculptures, incorporating a wide range of have become functional as fashion items - a true Stacy Engman influences including Medieval and Gothic as marriage of artistic disciplines. “Both fashion well as contemporary street culture. For the Art and art are forms of creative expressions, which Capsul, Koh created the Pearl Bomber Jacket. can influence and depend on one another,” says

Made from 100 percent sustainable cotton and Rogers. “We wanted to get involved, as our Opposite Page: 20,000 hand-stitched and applied faux pearls customers are increasingly interested in finding Energy Clothes by Marina Abramovic.

from Swarovski, Koh has created the jacket in forever pieces, and these garments are truly an Left to Right Top to Bottom: his signature palette of white as tribute to his occasion.” These exclusive items are truly one-of- Terence Koh. Opus 1 Baby Doll Parka by George Condo. Pearl Bomber sculpture Boy by the Sea, a self-portrait that was a-kind and the type of fashion items that Net-a- Jacket by Terence Koh. Close up initially installed by the ocean in Yokohama. The Porter shoppers will cherish. As stated by Alison of the Elle gown designed by Mickalene Thomas. Mickalene jacket is inspired by the contemporary bomber Loehnis, President and Managing Director of Thomas and Stacy Engman. jacket popularly worn on the street, while it Net-a-Porter, “These unique, bespoke works are is at the same time heavily embellished with covetable, fashionable and highly collectible.” Swarovski pearls to reflect a highly fetishized luxury item. The Art Capsul was announced by Net-a-Porter at a private reception at The Upper House during Brazilian-born artist Vik Muniz’s Peau d’Âne Art Basel Hong Kong in May 2013. The luxury Gown - meaning “donkey skin” in French - fashion online retailer then revealed garments references the 1970 cult film Peau d’Âne starring during an exclusive preview during Paris Haute Catherine Deneuve. In the film, a princess asks for Couture Week this past July. The items have gowns to be made that are seemingly impossible surely made history and add to the ongoing to create, in order to get rid of an unwanted tale of the collaborations between the worlds of suitor. Her demands are fulfilled. Muniz’s gown fashion and art. depicts a floral scene with hummingbirds in high-resolution print set on duchess satin. The appliqué technique he used reflects that which All images courtesy Net-a-Porter. he incorporated in his Retratos de Revista series. Art Capsul by Stacy Engman is available Similarly, here he layered cutouts of the same on a made-to-order basis exclusively via Pfabric on top of the entire surface of the gown. Net-a-Porter.com’s Personal Shopping team. coming of age in New York

A view of the interior of Taymour Grahne Gallery and Nicky Nodjoumi’s exhibition Chasing the Butterly and Other Recent Paintings. By Ellen Pearlman

148 149 Taymour Grahne recently opened his new 4,000 American interest in art from these regions is NICKY NODJOUMI square foot split-level Taymour Grahne Gallery growing, as the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Nicky Nodjoumi was born in Kermanshah, Iran in the Tribeca district of Manhattan. It includes the Los Angeles Contemporary Museum of Art in 1942. In 1974 he earned his MFA from the City Taymour Grahne has opened his a main exhibition space upstairs, and a project and the Museum of Modern Art in New York are College of New York, after which he returned space downstairs. Grahne, born in London all acquiring key pieces. When asked if certain home to Iran. He discovered that SAVAK, the eponymous gallery in New York City’s to Lebanese and Finnish parents is the well- topics are taboo, Grahne replied, “There are secret police under Shah Mohammad Reza Tribeca district with a startling show known blogger of Art of the Mideast, a website certain things you can’t show in museums but Pahlavi had files of all of his activities in New of works by Iranian artist Nicky Nodjoumi. devoted to a dialogue about Middle Eastern Art. collectors do collect ‘controversial works.’ The York. Interrogating him, SAVAK concluded he Ellen Pearlman reports on Grahne’s new Convinced the time was ripe to exhibit artists collectors have a very open mind.” Though deeply was not fit to teach, but could exhibit once a neglected by the discourse of Eurocentric art, interested in groundbreaking art, he does draw year. In 1980, after the Islamic Revolution, the space and Nodjoumi’s artistic Renaissance. he combined his aesthetic instincts with his the line at provocation for provocation’s sake. Museum of Modern Art in Tehran mounted a practical side, earning an MA in art business retrospective of Nodjoumi’s work. An article from Sotheby’s Institute of Art. The result was The inaugural exhibition for the gallery is appeared in Jomhouri-e Eslami, the official so successful in 2012 he was named as one Iranian artist Nicky Nodjoumi’s Chasing the newspaper of the Islamic Republican Party. of Modern Painter’s “50 Most Exciting Art Butterfly and Other Recent Paintings. Grahne Written by Mirhossein Mosavi, an artist, Collectors under 50.” admits he is drawn to artists who delve into architect, and chief editor who later became the their past using historical, cultural and political Prime Minister of Iran, it denounced the show Starting with works from the Middle East and elements. He says, “I know Nicky’s political as anti-revolutionary, anti-Khomeini, and pro- North Africa, Grahne is expanding to include work could not be shown in Iran or certain Western imperialism. Nodjoumi recounts that South Asian and Central Asian artists. His track elements at least would not be shown in Iran. the article “warned people to not look at this record is impressive; four of his artists were part Nicky’s work takes you back to key moments in painting, it is so convincing you will think what of the 55th Venice Biennale: Tarek Al-Ghoussein his country’s history, and there are modern and is happening is true but it is not true ….. it is an for Kuwait, Mohammed Kazem for the United non-Iranian themes in it as well.” Nodjoumi, allegorical painting, but in my experience I found Arab Emirates, Camille Zakharia for Bahrain, an Iranian-American who studied in Iran, has it did have some power.” Two weeks later, tipped and Albert Yonathan Setyawan for Indonesia. lived for decades in Brooklyn, and is therefore off that there would be trouble if he stayed in the The gallery presents public programing, panel representative of the gallery’s global emphasis. country, he left everything behind and fled to discussions, artist and curator tours, film It also helped that Grahne opened his gallery New York. Yet his allegorical, figurative works did screenings and lectures. Each exhibition has the same week the Asia Society’s seminal Iran not fare well with the conceptual and minimalist its own catalogue or monograph with essays Modern show launched, featuring two of styles in vogue at the time, and he spent years Taymour Grahne in his New York space. written by leading curators and scholars. Nodjoumi’s political paintings from 1976. honing his process until attaining his first show. “I know Nicky’s political work could not be shown in Iran or certain elements at least would not be shown in Iran. Nicky’s work takes you back to key moments in his country’s history, and there are modern and non-Iranian themes in it as well.”

Taymour Grahne

150 151 Nodjoumi creates his background is often Asia Society wanted to see those canvases but he painting by beginning empty, and the images “doubted they would take it…it showed it was with small sketches, are slapped against the not a rosy situation.” Those pictures now form drawings and studies horizontal line of the the cornerstone of the Iran Modern exhibition. using images garnered canvas, thus forcing from newspaper clips the human body to Nodjoumi is deeply aware of “the power of and photographs of loom large in the the image to endure,” and muses that “these people in power. The pictorial plane by dint people are so scared of it and will do anything images range from of its “monumentality.” to prevent it from being seen.” Now, with this Persian metaphors, His black and white gorgeous solo show at Taymore Grahme, and his snatches of Iranian ink drawings are inclusion in Iran Modern, he is fielding requests iconography and subtler and more from museums around the world, guaranteeing apparitions plucked spacious. The 2012- that his images will, indeed, endure. from his imagination. 13 series of large They are laid out diptychs, triptychs and as if taken from a four paneled pieces scene of some absurd on display at Taymore theatrical production. Grahme are slathered Opposite Page: Nicky Nodjoumi. Caught in the Game. 2011. After putting them together in a collage-like with broad strokes, de-saturated ink washes Oil on Canvas.182.88 x 127cm. manner, he paints large-scale figures onto a and splattered dots, freeing the tension between Above: Gallery view including the artworks all Nicky Nodjoumi: The Accident. Four Panels. 2013. Ink on Paper. 85 x 168 inches. canvas that can then confront the viewer in a background and foreground so that one blends Intriguing Gesture. Triptych. 2013. Ink on Paper. 85 x 126 decidedly Neo-Expressionistic style. His animal into the other. inches. Untitled. 2013. 28.5 x 22.5 inches. Study for Time to Pray. 2011. Ink on Paper. 28.5 x 22.5 inches. Study for Tear Gas or human characters are often sliced in half and Butterflies. 2011. Ink on Paper. 28.5 x 22.5 inches. and reassembled in an odd disjointed way atop Nodjumi had a few paintings lying dormant Left: Nicky Nodjoumi. The Inauguration of New President. 2013. Oil on Canvas. 38 x 33 inches. one another. Nodjoumi says this disruption is in his studio for over 30 years that he was not a reference to images of dismembered bodies able to take to Iran. They were, he says, “too All images courtesy of Cary Whittier. and Taymour Grahne Gallery, New York. from the American-Iraqi war. The top sections radical. The red color, showing a Communist, represent known reality, while bottom reveals a was not allowed… (but) in the U.S. they (the Chasing the Butterfly and other Recent Paintings hidden aspect that creates an unstable discourse art world) didn’t care about it (the paintings).” ran until 19 October. For more information visit between two opposing points of view. The Curators, in preparation for Iran Modern at the taymourgrahne.com Renowned Saudi artist 152 Abdulnasser Gharem’s first solo show 153 in London reveals some of his most popular works as well as several poignant new ones. Henry Hemming reports from London.

A Saudi They stand in line, unaware that they are being detailed intersection of tribal and individual filmed. To begin with, these men look alike in identities within the setting, and in this case the their regimented white thobes (an ankle-length setting is the key. The men lined up in prayer white garment worn by men in the Gulf) and are at the Riyadh Book Fair, which despite its the effect, as you can imagine, is impressive. We prosaic-sounding name, has become one of the Arabian are hard-wired to be impressed or afraid by the most controversial and tense cultural events sight of a near uniform group acting as one. Yet anywhere in Saudi Arabia. look a little closer at this group, part of a video installation in the London exhibition of Saudi “Everyone is just waiting for something to artist Abdulnasser Gharem, his first solo show happen,” explains Gharem. “The book fair is now outside the Gulf, and an alternative picture will like a cultural war, which for me is interesting. In Trickster emerge. As the video develops it ceases to be a my country you have two kinds of ignorance. The portrait of unthinking unity, but of endless first is holy ignorance when everyone follows what and endlessly subtle variations. The men are of the holy men say. The second is an established different heights and ages, some of them boys ignorance. This is when people have just one way By Henry Hemming not much older than ten, others not actually in of thinking. Books can change this. Praying in thobes, there are those too old to kneel when public reminds us of the power of the holy men, required while no two beards or moustaches are it’s like a performance. At the Book Fair you have alike. But it is in the keffiyehs (a cotton headdress both of these things.” worn by men in the Gulf) that you see the most

Left: Abdulnasser Gharem. The Path from the performance of The Path. 2007. Above: Abdulnasser Gharem. Portrait of the Artist from the Performance Flora and Fauna. 2007. Digital print on limited arch archival Gicleé Da Vinci paper. 60 x 85 cm. 154 “The book fair is now like Yet Gharem is not out to make a partisan point. With no formal training - there are no art colleges Here is a refrain which plays out through his sheet of plastic 155 a cultural war, which for me “I’m not on one side. I’m a witness,” he says. in Saudi Arabia - Gharem spent the years after work. His London solo show will contain a surrounding a As with so much of his oeuvre he engages with completing his military training learning about series of three enormous hand-carved stamps tree. Another is is interesting. In my country you modern Saudi history and the politics of now to art in his spare time. By the late 1990s he began made by Moroccan craftsmen, each one a a concrete block have two kinds of ignorance. present what he calls ‘an unofficial history’, the to order in as many art books as he could afford direct descendant of that original stamp. There covered in small leitmotif of his upcoming exhibition in London. and otherwise scoured the embryonic internet will also be stamp prints on paper such as The rubber stamps and The first is holy ignorance Taking place at the Edge of Arabia space in south- for more information. He taught himself English Stamp (Inshallah) and The Stamp (Moujaz). In positioned at the when everyone follows what west London, in partnership with Ayyam Gallery, and produced and occasionally exhibited ground- each Gharem challenges our notions of formal entrance of the the holy men say. the exhibition will include many of Gharem’s best breaking work alongside a handful of other young bureaucratic approval, the power that goes with gallery. Visitors known works along with new pieces such as the Saudi artists such as Ahmed Mater and the poet a stamp and to what ends these objects are used. are forced to take The second is an established Riyadh Book Fair installation and one recently Ashraf Fayadh. The last of these pieces is also timely. a detour. ‘For me shot in Medina. the recent history ignorance. This is when people have Yet the problem they faced was one which remains “In Arabic ‘Moujaz’ means ‘in accordance with of the Middle East is like this. We are asked to the lives of these people, seeing them as refugees just one way of thinking. Riyadh Book Fair is typical of Gharem’s new to this day in Saudi Arabia, even if it is reduced. Sharia law,’” he explains. “Many Saudi banks use take a detour. We are told things will be fixed from their home. “You look at the news in Syria,” direction. He has recently found a position at the Every work put on display required a complex this slogan to bring in new customers. People soon. But really you must never put your faith he adds, “and there you see the same thing. Books can change this. cutting edge of the accelerating cultural evolution negotiation between what the artist was after, what want their bank to be approved by Sharia. But in concrete.” Empty homes, demolished homes and refugees; within Saudi Arabia and now collaborates with his family might think, how it would reflect upon recently some of these banks were exposed for really, I want to be a witness to this, to make Praying in public reminds us groups like the Saudi comedy collective Telfaz11. his tribe and what was acceptable at that historical breaking the rules. They were not Sharia.” Over Yet perhaps the most poignant work in this new people look at these things in a new way.” of the power of the holy men, Together they set up earlier this year the Amen Art The Stamp (Amen), moment in the eyes of the the summer of 2013, when the twitter hashtag exhibition is Manzoa, part of an ongoing series it’s like a performance. Foundation. For many young creatives in Saudi Ministry of Culture and Information as well as the # took off (it translates to emerge out of a chance encounter with a Arabia Gharem is a pioneer, and much of that is local religious police. These worries even followed roughly as #salaryisnotenough), generating group of impoverished fishermen. They had been At the Book Fair you have both down to the struggle he has endured over the years him abroad when in 2008 Gharem was selected to millions of tweets and becoming an outlet for a bought out of their homes by the government which has consequently opened up the Saudi art take part in the first Edge of Arabia exhibition in frustrated Saudi youth, these banks and their use but had since spent most of the money on qat. of these things.” scene. the Brunei Gallery in London’s School of African of the word ‘Moujaz’ became a target. Over their houses the word Manzoa was daubed, Abdulnasser Gharem and Oriental Studies. which means “to be demolished.” On seeing it, Gharem first came to the world’s attention in 2011 Other works in the exhibition include a photograph Gharem improvised a performance by painting Abdulnasser Gharem ran from 9 October to when his sculptural installation Message/Messenger In the days before the show opened Gharem had of his famous Flora and Fauna performance the same word onto his shirt and moving around 8 November 2013 at the Edge of Arabia space. sold at Christie’s Dubai for $842,500 (including the various works removed. Part of his response was to in which he spent an afternoon living inside a the shantytown. Since then he has documented For more information visit edgeofarabia.com buyer’s premium), one of the highest prices paid for produce an over-sized wooden stamp emblazoned a work of art by a living Arab artist. From a distance with the words ‘Have a Bit of Commitment’ and Above Left to Right: Installation view of The Capitol Dome at #COMETOGETHER, All images courtesy of the artist and Edge of Arabia, London. this represented one man’s sudden arrival. Yet for to fly out to London and stamp it onto the walls Men At Work from the Series Restored Behaviour. 2010. Edge of Arabia, London. 2012. Gharem it was no more than a milestone after a of the gallery, thus authorizing everything in the The Path from the performance of The Path. 2007. Abdulnasser Gharem withThe Stamp (Amen) II. Date 2011 Road to Makkah (Detail). 2012. Industrial Rubber Stamps decade of producing art. show. on Plywood. All by Abdulnasser Gharem. Photography by Alex Maguire. From Les Russes

156 with Love 157

By Sarah Marie Hassan

Léon Bakst. Variation of the original set design from Scheherazade. After 1910. Watercolor, metallic paint and graphite on paper. 73.82 x 103.51 cm. Image courtesy McNay Art Museum, San Antonio. Gift of Robert L. B. Tobin. n the early twentieth century, in the Pared down from its London predecessor, When there are many across multiple floors - evokes a the public’s taste. One can see the blending of span of twenty years, Serge Diaghilev, the grand Art Danced with Music is a jewel-box of an different mood based on the ballet it presents: stage design with interior decorating - Bakst’s Russian impresario from Perm who claimed no exhibition that allows the visitor’s eye to wander the primary colors of Petrushka contrast with the sets for Scheherazade - costumes paired with Itrue gifts of his own, changed the course of dance, a bit slower. For its presentation, the V&A, which hothouse hues of the Orientalist Scheherazade high fashion - Coco Chanel’s sporty swimsuits art, music and theater. His ingenious recognition houses the largest collection of Russes material before you wander into the golden, pastel world for Le Train Bleu - fine art with performance - of potential and talent in others led him to in the world, made use of its inventory almost of Daphnis & Chloe and Afternoon of a Faun, Picasso’s designs for Parade and countless other 158 forge some of the most successful collaborations overwhelmingly so with everything from business and further into the jarring, angular landscape innovations that allowed the Ballets Russes to be 159 between choreographers, composers and painters ledgers, blood-stained toe shoes, receipts for wigs of The Rite of Spring, the now-infamous woolen at once cutting edge and highly traditional. seen on the world stage through his legendary and dancer’s passports on display. The National costumes designed by Nicholas Roerich circling a “You can have many exhibitions on the Ballets company, the Ballets Russes. Gallery took a different approach. “There was a platform in front of a screen playing the Joffrey Russes, but you are not going to have the same Serge Diaghilev’s decision to use core material in order to give a Ballet’s recreation of Nijinsky’s failed ballet set to exhibit twice,” Kennel explained. Her words ring legendary Ballets Russes Much has already been written. History has unique perspective of the evolution of art in the Stravinsky’s unsettling score. true. The Ballets Russes was opulence, educated were a catalyst at the turn invited the constant re-telling of the Russes 20th century,” explained Sarah Kennel, Associate opulence on a historical scale and stands as one of the twentieth century tales, from the scandal-driven opening night Curator in the Department of Photographs at Though Diaghilev famously refused to have his of the greatest cultural achievements by any of Le Sacre du Printemps, to the fiery affair the National Gallery of Art. “The Victoria & performances recorded, the exhibit does rely country in the twentieth century - even though for a marvelous interchange between Diaghilev and his prized danseur noble, Albert was able to highlight the strength of their on film to beautifully supplement the material Russia never had the chance to experience the between the artistic the tempestuous and troubled Vaslav Nijinsky, to collection and explore the process of putting on objects - faded, sweat-stained costumes can only fruits of Diaghilev’s labors first-hand. The sheer disciplines of dance, music, the miles traveled, costumes lost, funds drained a performance, and we wanted to do something speak so much on their own. Performances by depth and breadth of material left behind by the visual art and theater. and stars made in between the fruitful years of different - I was more interested in how to present legendary dancers in roles first created by the Russes makes for a daunting legacy to interpret 1909 and 1929. The Ballets Russes acted as an the company chronologically through its ballets Russes - such as Rudolf Nureyev as the faun in generation after generation, and with the current The fruits of this incredible eyewitness to vastly changing cultural and societal and the artistic movements each one paralleled.” Afternoon of a Faun and Mikhail Baryshnikov age of novelty when it comes to the media and time are explored in the norms, interpreting the latest trends in art and as the titular role in Prodigal Son - allow the artistic expression, perhaps that is the most National Gallery of Art’s music from Traditionalism to Romanticism, This desire is echoed at the beginning of the contemporary viewer to entrench themselves legendary contribution of all: whatever we may Diaghilev and the Ballets Exoticism, Modernism and Cubism. Diaghilev show with the placement of the coronation robe in the productions, and the thrill of seeing an think we have done, whatever topic we may cover challenged his company and the artists he from Boris Godunov, a staple in the Victoria and original costume paired with a film of the work in the here and now, one only has to search the Diaghilev and the Ballets Russes, 1909-1929: Russes: When Art Danced employed to constantly ‘astound him’ - a demand Albert’s costume collection. Intricately stitched in which it first appeared is available throughout repertory of a company who never performed in When Art Danced with Music ran at the National with Music. Sarah Marie he first famously made to Jean Cocteau according and lavishly beaded, this opulent example of the exhibition. This allows for one of the most the country whose name they bore during the Gallery of Art in Washington D.C. until Hassan reports from to the French artist’s journals - and this challenge Russian costume design for the opera’s title role important aspects of the Ballets Russes to shine turn of the century to realize how behind the 6 October. Washington D.C. was accepted in many forms, from Prince Igor to seduces the viewer upon entry and speaks to through: how Diaghilev relentlessly reinvented times we might really be. Scheherazade, Petrushka, The Afternoon of a the company’s Russian origins. Quick to move his company to appeal to and premeditate For more information visit nga.gov Faun, The Rite of Spring, Parade and countless onto the Russes first productions, which laid the other productions. Acting as a post script to the groundwork for Romanticism and Classicism, the This Spread Left to Right, Above to Below: Natalia Goncharova. x 59 x 40 cm. Image courtesy Artists Rights Society New York/ Valentin Serov. Anna Pavlova from Les Sylphides, poster for the Victoria and Albert Museum’s monumental 2010 show explores the folkloric costumes from Prince Design for the back cloth for the final Coronation scene from The ADAGP, Paris and V&A, London. first Russian season. 1909. Color lithograph. 256.2 x 201.5 cm. exhibition, Diaghilev and The Golden Age of the Igor, the breathy tulle and winged ensemble for Firebird. 1926. Watercolor. 57.5 x 78.5 cm. Image courtesy Image courtesy V&A, London. V&A, London. Aleksandr Golovin. Costume worn by Fyodor Chaliapin in the title Ballets Russes 1909-1929, the National Gallery Lydia Lopokova in Les Sylphides, and then to the role in the Coronation Scene from Boris Godunov. c.1908. Silk, Diaghilev and John Brown, New York. 1916. Photograph by Bain of Art in Washington, D.C. has staged their own drawings and set designs for Petrushka, whose Léon Bakst. Costume for title role from The Blue God. c. 1912. metal, glass & pearl beads, fur and paint. 200 x 165 x 70 cm. News Service.10.16 x 15.24 cm. Image courtesy Ms. Anna and Tunic made from mixed fabrics, braids, embroidery, sequins and Image courtesy V&A, London. Mr. Leonid Winestein. tribute to Les Russes with Diaghilev and the menacing curtain of a city at twilight with ghouls paint. Image courtesy National Gallery of Australia, Canberra. Ballets Russes: When Art Danced with Music. flying overhead designed by Alexandre Benois is Léon Bakst. Costume for Nymph from The Afternoon of a Faun. Giorgio de Chirico. Costume for a Male Guest from The Ball. c. 1912. Silk chiffon, lamé, metallic ribbon, cotton. Image recreated on the painted walls. Each room - and 1929. Mixed fabrics with painting and appliquéd medals. 163 courtesy National Gallery of Australia, Canberra. Marker’s main achievement has been to “create a network between regions,” Carver explains. “A lot of plans and collaborations come out of Marker. The Yasayan Biennale 2013 in Yogyakarta, Indonesia focused on the UAE and Saudi Arabia thanks to a connection made at our Indonesia Marker section in 2011. Since our West Africa Marker in 2013, shows by West African artists in Dubai have increased.”

Guiding Slavs and Tatar’s approach to Marker in 2014 is Central Asia’s pivotal role in Islamic history. “It is a blind spot that is particularly relevant to the Muslim world.” He points to cities like Bukhara and Samarkand, which were once historic centers of Islamic learning and culture. “It’s shocking that the Middle East has forgotten about this region.”

Slavs & Tatars have looked at Central Asian Islam before. Their 2012 show Not Moscow Not Mecca at Vienna’s Secession looks at what Payam called the “syncretic” Islam of Central Asian countries, including by the beach with Siberian tourists at the Western China - a hybrid of different Issyk-Kol lake of Kyrgyzstan. religions and customs. “This is relevant A Central to the Gulf today which has a reasonably Also prominent are remnants of a Soviet modern and homogeneous view or religion past. In Bukhara, I found an abandoned and nationhood,” explains Payam. Soviet vending machine among the city’s minarets and sumptuous mosaics. In Asian Fixation The show included a bowl of inflatable Tashkent, a toy shop is frozen in time: watermelons on a steel Ottoman table. The “Savsplastjal” or Soviet Plastics is a small fruit reflects three ethnicities that once kiosque with plastic toys, closed since the 160 ruled Central Asia: its biggest exporters early 90s, where it remains unchanged. 161 are Iran and Turkey, but it is also a popular

By Lemma Shehadi fruit in Russia, where it grows along the This overwhelming Russian presence is Volga River. All three countries continue felt in the Contemporary art of the region. to have an impact on the region today. An exhibition of Contemporary Kazakh With its emphasis on color, pattern and artists at the A. Kasteev State Museum For this year’s Marker section, the curated section ornamentation, this zany show mirrors in Almaty reveals this. Alexander Ugay’s of Contemporary art galleries that focuses on as the region’s long history of craft and 2011 series Workers in Emptiness, shows specific region, Central Asia will be the highlight. artisanship, an important theme for Slavs cut outs of Kazakh construction workers Lemma Shehadi explores the burgeoning art scene & Tatars as they prepare for Marker 2014. against a white background. These surreal “Craft continues to play an important images, devoid of perspective, echo and in this increasingly popular region. role in the Contemporary arts of both the subvert social realism, the art form that Caucasus and Central Asia,” says Carver. dominated throughout the Soviet Union. This is seen in the work of Kazakh artist They are also reminiscent of the 1932 Almagul Menlibayeva, among others. work Lunch a Top a Skyscraper, the iconic In recent years there’s been a notable growth in they reveal cultural links that have been shadowed as well be talking about Klingon,” he quips. “But American photograph of workers on a the market of Contemporary Central Asian art. by history and the media. Their most recent book the region has been at the center of world history Through religion, craft and also language, scaffolding overlooking New York City, “People often ask, why Central Asia? A better Friendship of Nations: Polish Shi’ite Showbiz for over two millennia”. the historic ties between Central Asia and demonstrating the artist’s outlook towards question is: why not?” says Payam Sharifi, part (Sharjah Art Foundation, 2013), looks at the the Gulf are numerous. “We hope to make the West. of the collective Slavs & Tatars, artists who historical relationship between Poland and Iran. “For most of the art world these places are still those connections between the regions will be curating Art Dubai’s Marker section a mystery,” says Antonia Carver, director of Art and Dubai visible,” adds Carver. Also at the exhibition were photographs in March 2014. Curated by artists for the first If that sounds crazy to you, then Slavs & Tatars Dubai, but a growing art scene is slowly being by video and performance artist Almagul time, the annual international art fair’s Marker have succeeded. “We bring together things acknowledged. She points to the increasing Meanwhile, it is difficult to ignore Menlibayeva. Along typical Kazakh series highlights a different emerging art scene that appear antithetical or mutually exclusive. presence of Central Asia and the Caucasus at the cultural and political influence of landscapes such as the Steppe, she or region every year. The focus will be on the What do Iran and Poland have to do with one international art fairs like the Venice Biennale. the Russian settlement in the region, photographs and films herself wearing Caucasus and Central Asia, and having toured another?” Such questions are important in an The Laura Bulian Gallery in Milan regularly which continues to shape Central Asian local textile in addition to colorful and three countries from the latter this summer, I am age of buzzwords, where “Iran” is more typically exhibits and represents Central Asian artists. countries today. For instance, I drank finely woven silk tapestries. Her 2010 anxious to hear Payam’s - or Slavs & Tatar’s - take associated with “nuclear weapons” and “America” This year, Sotheby’s selling exhibition At the Russian lemonade in Almaty, and lounged work at the State Museum, Madonna of on the region. than it is with countries like Poland and the Crossroads was the first selling exhibition of Central Asian cities of Bukhara and Samarkand. Contemporary art from both regions to be held Facing Page: Almagul Menlibayeva. Madonna of The Djumaliev. Spring#2. 2009. C-print. 60x90 cm. Slavs & Tatars may at the outset appear as “Central Asia and the Caucasus have generally by an international auction house. Curator for Great Steppe. 2010. 70 x 107 cm. Lambda print on Kasmalieva&Djumaliev. Spring#3. 2009. C-print. alu-dibond. Image courtesy American-Eurasian Art 60x90 cm. Kasmalieva &Djumaliev. Spring#4. 2009. enigmatic as Payam himself, but their message is become obscure to Western audiences. If you Contemporary Arts of the CIS, Suad Garayeva Advisors LLC. C-print. 60x90 cm. very clear. Focusing on what is known as Eurasia, talk to Americans about Uzbekistan you might says the sale “exceeded expectations.” This Page Above to Below: Kasmalieva & Djumaliev. AHotel. 2007. C-print. 60x100 cm. Kasmalieva & All images courtesy Laura Bulian Gallery. 162 163

the Great Steppe shows a young girl in a white of life that was ended by collectivization of the Kyrgysztan in the 1920s, which to this day in the first Central Asian Pavilion at dress, wearing giant horns while holding a baby 1930s. is the scene of clashes between its Kyrgyz the Venice Biennale in 2005. This year’s goat. In the background is the vast and golden and Uzbek inhabitants. Osh had been Pavilion included Akhunov’s work who also Steppe, with its clear blue sky that is depicted in In The Aral Beach #2, a model stands barely placed by Stalin in Kyrgysztan, as a way participated at dOCUMENTA (13), the the Kazakh flag and passport. What is typically clothed in front of a rusty ship in the Aral Sea. of weakening nationalist unity within the prestigious art event in Kassel, Germany an iconic Western image, the Madonna with Like the abandoned toy shop I saw in Tashkent, Soviet republics. last year. Meanwhile, Menlibayeva’s work her child, is here placed within the context of the former USSR is here represented as an age was recently acquired by Louis Vuitton, nomadic Kazakh rituals and culture. of decay, a wasteland in the desert. The Aral Sea The 2006 video installation A New Silk and MOMA PS1 screened her short film was once one of the world’s largest lakes. A failed Road by Gulnara Kasmalieva & Muratbek Transoxania Dreams in June. Though they reference Western culture and an irrigation project by the Soviets caused the water Djumaliev documents the contemporary international art practice, the emphasis on local to recede, leaving a desert seabed considered to Silk Road in Kyrgyzstan. No longer Though participants for Marker 2014 craft and landscape in the works of Menlibayeva be one of the world’s worst ecological disasters with nomadic traders exporting textiles have not yet been selected, the artists and others echoes depictions of the country by of the 20th century. Menlibayeva humorously leaders. “Humor [in art] is a way of disarming by caravan, the road accommodates cited give an outline of Contemporary modern Russian and Kazakh painters of the turns this dismal setting into a fashion shoot. people without being dogmatic,” says Payam, as industrial trucks transporting mass art practice in Central Asia. Often 20th century. Russian intellectuals and painters we talk about Akhunov’s work. I particularly like produced goods. Having done the trip conceptual, they draw on influences that who moved to Kazakhstan from Tsarist Russia In Uzbekistan, Vyacheslav Akhunov, a his Lenin fly-swatters, which he took to protests myself, on a 13 hour car journey from the shaped their countries today: their Islamic onwards depicted the vast expanse of the Steppe, Contemporary artist and self-proclaimed in the 70s, disguised as pro-regime placards. capital to the Uzbek border, I found the and nomadic pasts, the Eastern Bloc and the mountains above Almaty and the lives and philosopher uses humor to subvert power. work particularly evocative of the Kyrgyz their current international outlook. With customs of the nomadic Kazakh people. These Hiding his work from the authorities in the 70s In such works, power and control are exposed social and physical landscape: a grim, Slavs & Tatars’ innovative approach to the motifs were in turn used by Kazakh painters of the and 80s, most of it is confined to musings and as artifice, a lesson Akhunov might have decaying urban existence contrasts to the region, this may be one of the art world’s 50s and 60s, who, echoing the rise of nationalist drawings in a notebook, including a drawing of learned at an early age. He was born in Osh, idyllic mountain nomads. highlights of 2014. sentiment, harked back to their pre-medieval way empty pedestals intended for the monuments of a predominantly Uzbek city made part of These artists, among a handful of others including many from Tajikistan, have This Page Above to Below: Before the Before, After the After Facing Page Above to Below: Kasmalieva & Djumaliev. Racing. Slavs and Tatars, PrayWay (installation view). 2012. Silk (installation view). 2012. Industrial foam, concrete, 2007. C-print. 24x35 cm. Image courtesy Laura Bulian Gallery. and wool carpet, MDF, steel, neon. 390 x 280 x 50 cm. received worldwide critical attention. A Art Dubai will take place from 19-22 water-resistant paint. 145 x 72.5 cm. Almagul Menlibayeva. Aral Beach #2. 2011. 91 x 122 cm. Photography by Patricia Staffa. Image courtesy Künstlerhaus New Silk Road travelled to galleries across March 2014. For more information visit “Not Moscow Not Mecca” (installation view). 2012. Duratrans light box. Images courtesy American-Eurasian Art Stuttgart. Secession. Vienna. Both images courtesy Secession / Oliver Advisors LLC. the globe, and the artists were featured artdubai.ae Ottenschläger. A 164 SERENDIPITY 165

A Palatial Dream Jet set Marrakech Kyoto calling On Truth Commissioned by the Moroccan Royal family, the Royal Mansour in Marrakech is an architectural wonder Palatial presenting the best in North African art, design and culture. Rebecca Anne Proctor reviews the hotel and marvels Dream at some of its secrets.

Rebecca Anne Proctor

One arrives at the Royal Mansour after a quick At the heart of the Royal Mansour is the Majestic Riads drive through the bustling city of Marrakech. central courtyard. An area for waiting, rest and One passes through several Andalusian The colorful culture and rich contrasts found in leisure, it is open to the sky and features bronze courtyards lined with fragrant trees boasting this North African city quickly dissipate as soon suspended lamps, Andulsian cabinets made ripe fruit until they reach their own riad, a

166 as the ancient honey-colored city walls of the in Cordoba, banquettes inlaid with mother- three-storey building set around a colonnaded 167 hotel open, welcoming the newcomer into an of-pearl and stunning tile mosaic and marble courtyard. I was escorted to my riad by a butler aura of calm, stunning Moroccan architecture fountains. This is an incredible dream world who proceeded to guide me around each of my and enrapturing gardens. The first thing that that one might fantasize about after reading three floors explaining how everything worked. moves guests is the smell of jasmine which A Thousand and One Nights. During my stay, I He also pointed out the specially-designated A fills the air, offering a sweet and serene scent sat here several times in silence and delighted in butler entrance from what appeared to be a - a reminder of the tranquility of this special the calming sounds of trickling water from the hidden door on each floor. From this entrance, place. As soon as I entered this marvelous nearby fountain. he would enter in order to serve breakfast, abode, friendly staff took my belongings while lunch and dinner as well as help with whatever I was treated to dates and cool buttermilk - the else was needed. Over the third floor was a traditional refreshment served to travelers in charming terrace where I could sunbathe as well the desert. as view a magnificent skyline of the rooftops of Marrakech. This was much more than a hotel An incredible silence fills the air of the Royal - it was as if I had been given my own private Mansour. It is paradise for one who is worn from abode. And then, as if by magic, my friendly days of flights and car rides - a site that resembles butler seemed to disappear into thin air. At first what one has always envisioned North African it was a bit alarming and took me by surprise; palaces to be: a mirage of opulent Arabian how could he have been so present and then so courtyards. Every inch of the hotel is made quickly leave and in such silence? with exquisite workmanship. There are acres of intricate zellij mosaics, a terracotta tile work It takes about a day to realize that the Royal covered with enamel in the form of chips that are Mansour is filled with secret passageways and then set into plaster; cedar ceilings and geometric underground tunnels that make this magical painted wood - all elements representative of the coming and going so effortless. The hotel North African ambiance in which the hotel is premises constitute a city itself. There are situated. The furnishings found throughout quarters for the staff, several kitchens and many the hotel are equally lavish and include Suzani storage facilities in order to equip the impressive embroideries from Bokara, suede cushions 3.5 hectare estate comprised of 53 two and and throws, and lots and lots of silk. Such rich three- storey riads. Within the riads one finds accompaniments further enhance the intimate swimming pools, dining rooms, a roof top and highly artistic character of the hotel. terrace, magnificent bedrooms and kitchens. The king of the riads, the Riad d’Honneur, venue La Table, which serve both French and would be equivalent to a Presidential Suite in Moroccan cuisine, are all overseen by Michelin- any major luxury hotel. It boasts two pools, starred chef Yanick Alléno and boast the gardens, a private spa and underground cinema. most fragrant and colorful dishes as well as Golf carts make it easier to move quickly from impeccable service. one place to the next. The spa is a wonder of its own. Bathed in The Royal Mansour serves as a way to keep natural light, the Royal Mansour Spa is Moroccan ancient crafts and traditions alive. enclosed within an impressive white glazed Moreover, it emphasizes the country’s tradition pavilion encircled by a moat. It houses 13 of royal patronage. During the 1990s, Hassan treatment rooms, including three private spa II, the father of the present King Mohammed suites. Treatments range from ancient holistic VI, constructed a mosque in Casablanca. The rituals using all natural Moroccan products to Royal Mansour was the reigning King’s project the latest anti-aging facials from Chanel, Sisley and he oversaw every aspect of the estate, which and Dr. Hauschka. At the heart of the spa is an was entirely built in three-and-half years and authentic hammam that provides guests with a involved around 1,400 craftsmen who worked traditional Moroccan bathing ritual combining on the hotel every day during the first year the hot sauna, fragranced steam room and cold of construction. It opened in July 2010. The plunge pools. There is also a manicure and detail and care that pedicure suite readily have gone into the available as well as a creation of the Royal It is paradise for one hair salon for a full Mansour ensure that who is worn from days range of treatments it is not just another of flights and car rides - from Leonor Greyl. luxury hotel to be a site that resembles what Other facilities include 168 found in Marrakech’s an indoor swimming 169 burgeoning landscape one has always envisioned pool, Watsu bath area of glamorous abodes. North African palaces and fitness center. The hotel is a to be: a mirage of opulent landmark of Moroccan Feeling calmed and culture. It effectively Arabian courtyards. revitalized after a brings together the hectic travel schedule, I architecture, cuisine, sadly parted ways with hospitality and art my impressive riad. In that make this North just three days I had African country so become accustomed rich. Within each to its grandeur and riad are artworks in the form of sculptures the friendly staff who silently came and went and paintings - many of which are made by from my quarters. The Royal Mansour recreates Moroccan artists. For example, in the cigar another world - you feel as if you’ve stepped lounge there is a bronze appliqué frieze made by back in time or perhaps more accurately, into the British-born Moroccan artist Yahya. Such a culture that is quite foreign from what we details reveal the unique care that the hotel has are used to. It’s a hotel fit for kings and queens invested in the Moroccan cultural arts, thus as well as everyone else who desires to know preserving the country’s heritage as much as it Marrakech and Morocco through and through. emulates it. After it all, one is driven back through the Opulence for the Senses haze of bustling Moroccan streets and the The sheer beauty of the Royal Mansour’s Royal Mansour seems to be but a dream in stunning architecture and surroundings are the midst of so much madness. Perhaps such even further enhanced when one pays a visit to an extreme contrast is all the more reason why the spa or eats in one of the hotel’s three top- such a palatial structure seems so luxurious - it notch restaurants. La Grande Table Francaise, prompts us to dream even more. which has been rated the best French restaurant in North Africa, the slightly less fancy La Grande Table Morocaine and the all-day dining All images courtesy of Royal Mansour. jet set Marrakech

By Cassidy Hazelbaker

170 171

For decades Marrakech has been a symbol of oriental luxury. Its red buildings and palm trees surrounding opulent palaces have attracted some of the world’s most refined characters. Cassidy Hazelbaker reports on Marrakech’s glamorous lifestyle throughout the ages. Every street scene is a window onto a traditional past mixed with a vibrant present.

172 or many, the mention of contributed to Marrakech’s reputation as a perusing the shops in the souk - an anonymity Saint Laurent spent considerable time in flock to Marrakech, drawn to its oriental allure, can be found. The Bahia palace is set on two acres 173 ‘Marrakech’ conjures up images of camels beautiful place of culture and learning. From unavailable to them in Europe. The opening Marrakech, restoring the Majorelle Gardens unique architecture, and historical significance. of gardens and boasts magnificent courtyards. crossing caramel sand dunes towards an adobe- the 13th to the 16th centuries, Marrakech went line of John Lennon’s song ‘Child of Nature,’ that had been planted and designed by artist Once a prime stop on the hippie trail, Marrakech The Majorelle Gardens house the Museum of styleF city. The tradition and authenticity captured through an unstable period as rivalries and which was intended to go on The Beatles’ 1968 Jacques Majorelle in the 1920s and 30s, when now regularly appears in the repertoire of the Islamic Art, and many visitors enjoy this dose within such an image, peppered with some disputes between various clans and families self-titled album, begins with “On the road to Morocco was under the French protectorate. world’s most glamorous globetrotters. A plethora of culture and tranquility within the high- colorful glamour, is in many regards an accurate resulted in the destruction of many parts of the Marrakech…” Bleu majorelle, a special shade of cobalt blue that of luxury hotels and riads offer travelers a deluxe paced city. The Museum of Marrakech and the portrayal of the city. Along with Fes, Meknes, city. Glory was restored to the city in the 16th was used extensively throughout the gardens, experience in one of the world’s most vibrant Museum of Moroccan Art provide more insight and Rabat, Marrakech was one of the four century with the arrival of the Saadian dynasty, John-Paul Getty Jr., son of the Founder of Getty fascinated Saint Laurent and always remained cities. The Royal Mansour, La Mamounia, Taj onto the craftsmanship and traditions which former imperial cities of Morocco. Its grandeur whose wealthy sultans constructed opulent oil company, was another big personality of a special shade to him. Saint Laurent often Palace, Four Seasons and Delano, among others, make up the city’s heritage. Perhaps Marrakech’s has been maintained throughout the centuries palaces and restored heritage buildings and the time who found Marrakech to be a place of travelled to Marrakech to find inspiration and offer visitors the warm oriental hospitality most prominent mosque, the Koutoubia mosque, and heightened over the last several decades with landmarks that had previously been damaged. wonders and delights. An enormously wealthy refuge. In 1980, he and his partner Pierre Bergé and comfort for which the region is known. with its striking minaret punctuates the city’s the appearance of foreigners lured and inspired Marrakech once again became a thriving hub for philanthropist, he and his second wife Talitha purchased the gardens. After Saint Laurent’s Traditional dishes such as lamb tagine and skyline. The Kasbah mosque is another centrally- by the exotic charm of the city. travelers from the Maghreb, sub-Saharan Africa spent a significant amount of time in the city. An passing in 2008, his ashes were scattered in the coucous can be found on the menus of top- located place of worship, from which the call of and the Mediterranean. iconic photo of the couple posing on the roof of Majorelle Gardens, with Bergé stating “…one day quality restaurants throughout the city, while a prayer streams forth five times a day, beckoning Marrakech in History their villa, John-Paul clad in a hooded djellaba I will join you under the Moroccan palms.” cup of Moroccan mint tea with a honey-flavored worshippers. Founded in 1062 by the Berber chieftan Abu Golden Era while Talitha wore billowing white harem pants sweet in the courtyard of a traditional riad is a Bakr ibn Umar, Marrakech quickly became a hub The 1960s and 70s saw contemporary Marrakech and was draped elegantly with a richly colored Patrick Guerrand-Hermès, great-great-grandson memorable moment. This incredible city for cultural exchange for trade, culture and religion, as travelers from soar to fame in the glamorous jet-set circle of silk kaftan, was later published in Vogue and of the founder of Hermès, Thierry, is another continues to mystify the traveler. For centuries Sub-Saharan Africa, the Maghreb and Andalusia the era. From fashion to music and culture, the further perpetuated the idea of Marrakech as a notable aristocrat who has left his mark on The city of Marrakech is composed of narrow Marrakech has been a crossroads of people and crossed paths in the ochre city. Many mosques who’s who of the day could be found in lavish blend of hippie-chic. The Gettys were known for Marrakech. Stationed in Morroco as a calvaryman alleys and wide streets, with pedestrians places, as Mediterranean, Asian and African and Quranic schools, known as madrasas in villas, spending the days and nights enjoying their sumptuous and decadent parties, hosted in the 1950s, he developed an intense interest and donkeys sharing the roads with cars and cultures intersect to shape this ever-evolving Arabic, were established, promoting study extravagant parties and frolicking around at Le Palais du Zahir, the palatial villa they had in oriental art and horses. Guerrand-Hermès motorcycles. Every street scene is a window onto city. Marrakech has appealed to traders, scholars, and dialogue between religious scholars. The the Medina. The ‘anything goes’ atmosphere purchased while on their honeymoon in 1966. later became a president of the Federation of a traditional past mixed with a vibrant present. artists, writers, designers, entrepreneurs and techniques employed by architects and craftsmen of Marrakech at the time was alluring and It was in Marrakech that Yves Saint Laurent International Polo and a notable art collector, There are quite a few sights to see. First stop on travelers, all drawn to the magnetism of this great from Andalusia blended with Sub-Saharan contrasted with more regimented social codes crossed paths with the enchanting Talitha. Saint and in 1984 he purchased and redeveloped Ain el the must-see traveler’s list is the Jemaa el Fnaa North African city. It comes as no surprise that forms resulted in the creation of a distinctive that, though slowly breaking, were still present in Laurent was once quoted as recalling, “I knew the Kassimou, a villa built for Leo Tolstoy’s daughter, Square- the main square and market place in the some of the greatest musicians and designers of architectural style filled with domes and arches Europe and the United States. youthfulness of the Sixties. Talitha and Paul Getty Olga. The villa is now part of the Polo Club de old city. By day, snake charmers, souvenir stalls our time have left their hearts in Marrakech; such prevalent throughout the city. An irrigation lying on a starlit terrace in Marrakech, beautiful la Palmarie and houses Guerrand-Hermès’ art and juice vendors crowd the square, in which a city will surely continue to charm all who pass system installed in the 12th century enabled The Beatles and The Rolling Stones both found and damned, and a whole generation assembled as collections. tourists and locals alike gather. By night, food through its majestic gates for decades to come. the construction of many gardens and orchards, inspiration and refuge in the exotic city. In if for eternity where the curtain of the past seemed vendors sell local dishes to the lingering crowd. which attracted writers from Andalusian Spain Marrakech they could roam the streets wearing to lift before an extraordinary future.” Marrakech Today Marrakech also contains a traditional souk, where Images Left to Right: Medina Marrakech, Morocco, image courtesy Magnus Manske. Marrakech Majorelle image courtesy and further promoted cultural exchange and hooded djellabas, blending in with the crowds Visitors from all over the world continue to everything from carpets to spices to leather goods Luc Viatour. Medina of Marrakech, image courtesy Russavia Kyoto callingBy Cassidy Hazelbaker Today Tokyo is Japan’s vibrant and bustling capital, but for more than one thousand years, Kyoto was the

174 country’s imperial capital. The city remains the cultural 175 heart of contemporary Japan, and its residents are fiercely proud of their city’s history and traditions. Cassidy Hazelbaker reports.

Sleepy and jet-lagged, I arrived in Kyoto to find hotel, while the iconic Kyoto Tower is across small bites of a variety of Japanese dishes such a crisp autumn breeze and a woman in a kimono the street. Sleek and modern, Hotel Granvia as shrimp tempura, fresh vegetables, baked awaiting me. “Welcome to Kyoto,” she said as is a shiny glass structure, reflecting the high fish, Kobe beef, glutinous rice, salad, and miso she performed a respectful bow, the first of rises which surround it. A glass atrium covers soup. After dinner I retire to the Sky Lounge many I was to see in the coming days and an the communal walkway connecting the hotel, at the top of the hotel. With live music in the act that I later learned to execute myself. This department store and train station, providing background, it is a great place to enjoy an after- dainty woman was called Tomoko and had a light and a sense of space to the packed walkway dinner drink and watch the twinkling lights of short haircut, sweet smile and a heart as big as underneath. this ancient and still vibrant city. Japan. Any trace of trepidation I faced towards being in a foreign culture surrounded by a The hotel lobby echoes traditional minimalistic First stop on my list is one of the myriad of language I knew nothing of was quickly erased elements of Japanese design while maintaining temples found in Kyoto. I am greeted at the by this woman’s kindness and reinforced by the a comfortable atmosphere. My room’s décor is entrance of Kiyomizu Dera Temple by the many personalities with whom I subsequently mostly composed of neutrals and warm beiges resident Buddhist monk. He is tall and quite interacted. while the white fluffy bedding is a welcome sight striking, wearing white garments topped by a after my long flight. My room offers a beautiful black robe complete with a golden sash. Exuding After a 90 minute car ride from Osaka airport, vista of the cityscape and the Toji temple (the an air of tranquility, he accompanies the tour I arrived to the Hotel Granvia, which is located tallest pagoda in Japan) with majestic mountains around the temple complex. The temple was directly in front of Kyoto Central station, in the background. first built in the 8th century halfway up the making it an ideal sleeping spot for those taking Otowa Mountain, but faced several fires and the bullet train to or from Tokyo. Unlike many Hotel Granvia contains a plethora of dining was thus rebuilt in the early 17th century. The large cities around the world, the area around options with cuisines from all around the world, construction was orchestrated by the Shogun the station is clean, pleasant and energetic. The near and far. My favorite is the authentic bento (lead Samurai) Tokugawa Iemitsu, and was built ten-story Isetan department store is next to the box served in Le Temps Restaurant, containing using a special method that doesn’t use a single nail to hold all the boards and pillars pistachio-nougat dessert topped with a tender fig. twice a year, during holiday times, and speaks to in place. Instead, all the building Even after living five years in Paris, I can safely her friends occasionally though they’re very busy components fit together like say I rarely have eaten so well. with exams at the moment, she explains. Asked a puzzle. Designated by if she had seen the film Memoirs of a Geisha, UNESCO in 1994 as a One of the highlights of Kyoto is a visit to an she giggles that she watched it on Youtube. historic monument of okiya- a Geisha boarding house. I am granted Perhaps the biggest surprise is seeing her eyes Kyoto, the main hall the opportunity to speak with a maiko- geisha in light up at the mention of Justin Bieber and the is an open room that training- which allows me a glimpse into what girly giggle that she cannot suppress. Perfectly leads onto an enormous is traditionally a private and quite secretive at home in the classic world of a geisha, there is terrace which juts out element of Japanese society. The boarding house also room for modernity within her - symbolic over a hillside and offers ‘mother’ greets us, explaining that the teenage of the historical city in which she resides. panoramic views of the maiko is under her sponsorship, taking classes city. Popular legend during to master the great Japanese traditional arts, To have a more traditional and authentic the Edo period said that if while as the sponsor she provides food, lodging Japanese experience, I checked into the you jump from the terrace, and exquisite kimonos- a very expensive part of Yoshidasanso Ryokan. The ryokan (traditional which stands at a height of 13 a geisha’s life. inn) was constructed in 1932 as a residence meters, your wishes will come for the Emperor of Japan’s uncle and was true. The practice is now prohibited As the maiko enters, one cannot help but to transformed into an inn 16 years later. Built but the ancient legend has inspired a stare. White face, pursed red lips, and elaborate from beautiful cypress wood, the ryokan modern-day Japanese idiom - to ‘jump over coiffeur, she is captivating. But a girl of 18, her contains six bedrooms, each comprising elegant the veranda of Kiyomizu Temple’ means to poise and confidence are those of a distinguished futons and furniture. All the rooms have full- undertake a daring adventure. Wrapping back lady. She glides rather than moves; not once does length windows looking onto the beautiful around to the entrance, I bid goodbye to the she make a sudden, swift movement. Every turn garden that surrounds the house, and one Kyotomonk. I admire the three-tiered pagoda and the of her head or twirl of her feet is deliberate and even has a terrace overlooking the surrounding niomon gate that stand guard to the temple, and measured as she expertly performs a traditional hills and a nearby pagoda. The tatami floor is turn around for one last glimpse of the monk, dance and plays a song on the koto, a large smooth and silky to touch, and the embossed only to see that, in the blink of an eye, he has stringed instrument. wall coverings shimmer in the sunlight. A vanished into the bright colors and intricate chrysanthemum motif, allowed only to decorate Drinking the tea involves details of Kiyomizu. royal residences, is prevalent throughout the a precise rotation of the tea house and is a reminder of the ryokan’s imperial bowl, which must be turned 176 Omnipresent in Kyoto is green tea - whether As the maiko enters, connections. The entire space is the definition 177 flavoring various dessert items or being one could not help but stare. of tranquility. halfway before consumption consumed by locals in cafes. In order to truly White face, pursed red lips, and then returned to its grasp the significance of the beverage to Japanese Reputed to be one of the most luxurious tradition, I meet with a tea ceremony master. An and elaborate coiffeur, ryokans, Yoshidasanso is as respected for its original position after occupation open to men and women, masters she was captivating. accommodation as for its gourmet kaiseki-style completion. study and train between 10 to 15 years before But a girl of 18, her poise and cuisine. Sitting down to a candle-lit table, I achieving certification. I observe the complex confidence are those of am treated to multiple courses of traditional process of brewing and filtering the tea, which Japanese dishes such as pumpkin soup, grilled involves quite a line-up of pottery, ladles, bowls, a distinguished lady. barracuda with chestnut, and scallops with napkins and a bamboo whisk. The final result is sweet petit potatoes. The presentation is a neon-green foamy tea, with a thick consistency impeccable- mini bites arranged artistically and a surprisingly smooth taste. Drinking the tea on handmade pottery plates, while rice and involves a precise rotation of the tea bowl, which soup were served in traditional Japanese must be turned halfway before consumption lacquered bowls. Tomoko, who had greeted me and then returned to its original position after at the airport, is the daughter of the owners of completion. Tea is accompanied by namakashi After, she sits to speak to us about her life Yoshidasanso and is our hostess for the evening. sweets, which usually are composed of a semi- path. I grappled to fully comprehend how it Her warm hospitality makes the dinner and the sweet dough with a red bean filling. must be to grow up in contemporary Japanese entire stay very personal. Wearing the flower- society, attending school, laughing with friends, patterned kimono that is provided in my room, Of the many delicious meals I enjoyed during shopping in malls, and then to break away from I feel right at home. my stay in Kyoto, one stood out: a lovely lunch it all at 15 to pursue the very structured, mature created by Chef Patron Inoué Téruo of the and private life of a geisha. Was she still able to Kyoto is a destination worth many weeks of Restaurant Pontocho Misoguigawa. Chef keep in touch with her former classmates? Was a traveler’s time. Whether in search of high Téruo studied with a three star Michelin chef she able to see her family? Did she ever wear culture, cuisine, hospitality or history, the in France and subsequently fuses French Belle western clothes and go into the city? I wanted city has it all and more. Unlike so many cities Époque cuisine with the Japanese Kaiseki style. to know how it is to exist in a traditional way in grappling to preserve the old while embracing the Téruo uses fresh, local ingredients and fine such a modern world. Her eyes twinkle as she new, in Kyoto the comforts and conveniences of French imports to produce course after course explains her profession. The only time she can modernity coexist harmoniously with some of the of innovative gourmet delights. Among the be truly anonymous is once every few weeks, world’s most regimented and respected cultural highlights is aubergine mousse with caviar and when she undoes the elaborate coiffeur to wash traditions. The most important product of my poached shrimp, lightly-grilled Kobe beef in a her hair. Like any teen, she dons jeans and a top visit to Kyoto, however, is the desire to return- to demi-glace sauce, langoustine au gratin, and a and heads to the cinema. She sees her family experience more of the city’s wonder. On Truth

The truth is rarely pure 178 and never simple. 179

Oscar Wilde

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