FALL FASHION ISSUE All the Season’S Riches RALPH LAUREN the Soft Ricky Bag RALPH LAUREN the Soft Ricky Bag
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Compact at first touch, it plays with surprising contrasts: rich yet evanescent, it absorbs quickly and leaves a satiny veil behind. AVAILABLE AT BERGDORF GOODMAN, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE, NEIMAN MARCUS AND LANCOME.COM ART DIR: PAUL MARCIANO GUESS?©2013 SEPTEMBER 2013 WOMEN’S STYLE 42 EDITOR’S LETTER 46 CONTRIBUTORS 50 COLUMNISTS on Perfection 53 THE WSJ. FIVE The five hottest items from the runway. 160 STILL LIFE Sofia Coppola The celebrated screenwriter and director shares a few of her favorite things. Photography by Martyn Thompson What’s News. 67 An Art Maven Turns to Jewels Photography by Katherine Wolkoff New Designs from Maison & Objet A Thai Resort in Dubai 70 Elsa Schiaparelli’s Fashion Revival Hollywood Stars Hit Broadway Harry Winston’s Custom Bridal Rings 72 The Priciest Meal in the Bay Area Warren Platner’s Sculptural Furniture Airbnb for Yachts 74 London’s Revamped Marylebone 76 High Fashion Art Books Regal Watches for Evening 78 Democratizing Upscale Cosmetics Algae’s Beauty Moment 80 Roberto Cavalli’s Brushstroke Designs Technicolor Hues on the Runway Cooperation-Friendly Gaming 82 Painter Balthus’s Favorite Subjects ON THE COVER Photography by Josh Olins. Styling by Alastair McKimm. Dolce & Gabbana white lace and silk dress and Proenza Schouler belt. Beauty note: Idealist Even Skintone Illuminator, Matte Perfecting Primer, Invisible Fluid Makeup, Double-Wear Mineral Rich Loose Powder, Pure Color Eyeshadow in Wild Truffle, Lip Conditioner, all Estée Lauder. THIS PAGE Photography by Ben Weller. Styling by Zara Zachrisson. From left: Lanvin coat, Ralph Lauren Blue Label turtleneck and Hermès clutch; Céline coat, top and skirt and Gianvito Rossi for Altuzarra boots (on both looks). For details see Sources, page 158. 144 37 0913A_WSJ_TOC_03.indd 37 7/24/13 11:33 AM 07242013115722 Fascinating Zip Necklace, transformable into a bracelet, coloured sapphires and diamonds. Unveiling of the redesigned 85 148 New York flagship Winter 2013 THe exchange. 85 PATTERN RECOGNITION 96 THE BUSINESS OF BEING The Design Library is the fashion and NASTY GAL decorating worlds’ best-kept secret. Sophia Amoruso turned an eBay store By Marian McEvoy into a $240 million company. Photography by Mark Mahaney By John Ortved 88 SATURDAY GROUP FEVER 100 THE RISE AND RUIN OF A The fashion marketing firm has found MODERNIST MASTERPIECE an expansive but nimble business model. How one of the most important By Zöe Wolff Modernist houses—designed by Eileen Gray, with murals by Le Corbusier— 90 THE BRANSON WAY was nearly destroyed. Holly Branson emerges as the new face By Alastair Gordon of the Virgin brand. By Joshua Levine Photography by Ambroise Tézenas FROM LEFT Shelves filled with patterns Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme since 1906 at Hudson Valley’s Design Library; designer Isabel Marant at her company headquarters, in Paris. GET WSJ. SATURDAY A Saturday-only subscription to The Wall Street Journal gives a weekly fix of smart style and culture. Includes OFF DUTY, a guide to your not-at-work life; REVIEW, the best in ideas, books and culture; FROM LEFT: MARK MAHANEY; ANGELO PENNETTA and, of course, the monthly WSJ. Magazine. 1-888-681-9216 or www .subscribe.wsj.com/getweekend. Follow us on Twitter and Instagram @WSJMag. Visit our online boutique at www.vancleefarpels.com - 877-VAN-CLEEF 132 72 124 Fall fashion issue 104 LUSH LIFE 144 NAVAL ACADEMY 152 COLLECT IT David Webb In the Brazilian wilds, a reclusive art If you buy one thing this season, The mid-century jeweler’s Twin Frog collector has created a fantastical make sure it’s a navy coat. Bracelet remains one of the house’s THERE ARE EXCEPTIONS outdoor art museum. Photography by Ben Weller top sellers. TO EVERY RULE. By Tony Perrottet Styling by Zara Zachrisson Photography by Ilan Rubin Photography by Josh Olins Styling by Alastair McKimm 148 THE CULT OF 154 FASHION’S MANE MAN ISABEL MARANT Over the past three decades, hair 124 MARRAKECH The fashion designer is taking stylist Guido Palau has created many TO THE MAX her vision to the masses in of the industry’s iconic looks. The restored riad of Countess a collaboration with H&M. By Harriet Quick Marta Marzotto reflects By William Van Meter Photography by Fabien Baron la dolce vita, Moroccan-style. Photography by Angelo Pennetta By J.J. Martin Photography by Matthieu Salvaing 132 PORTRAITS OF THE VENICE BIENNALE Artists, curators, gallerists and collectors of the world-famous art fair pose for the camera. Photography by Daniel Jackson ROYAL OAK DIAMOND SET IN STEEL. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT New York–based artist Andra Ursuta, whose work is included in the exhibition AUDEMARS PIGUET BOUTIQUES. 646.375.0807 “The Encyclopedic Palace” at the 55th Venice Biennale; Countess Marta Marzotto at her home in Marrakech; San NEW YORK: 65 EAST 57TH STREET, NY. 888.214.6858 Francisco’s Saison offers the Bay Area’s most expensive meal, using rare ingredients and custom-designed plateware. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DANIEL JACKSON; MATTHIEU SALVAING; BARTHOLOMEW COOKE BAL HARBOUR: BAL HARBOUR SHOPS, FL. 866.595.9700 AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM editor’s letter HIDDEN TREASURES ILLUSTRATION BY ALEJANDRO CARDENAS WILD THINGS Anubis and Bast explore the art installations at Inhotim in Alexander McQueen. Chris Burden’s Beam Drop is in the background. HEN I WAS THINKING of locations for Across the channel, we spend time with the founders hair down with Guido Palau, the legendary hair styl- our fall women’s fashion story, I kept of Saturday Group, fashion consultants who wear a ist whose creativity is behind some of fashion’s most returning to Inhotim—an extraordi- dizzying array of creative hats. And earlier in the sum- iconic moments. nary installation of contemporary art mer, photographer Daniel Jackson flew to Venice, Italy, The world and its many treasures are a constant Win southeastern Brazil. What better way to showcase to photograph the major players from this year’s art source of surprise and delight. We hope you find inspi- the sculptural silhouettes and intricate detailing of biennale. Then we went south, to Ulusaba, Sir Richard ration—fashion or otherwise—in the pages of WSJ. the season’s showstopping looks than against a lush Branson’s private game reserve in South Africa to forest of indigenous eucalyptus and palm, in a set- meet his daughter, Holly, a former medical doctor who Fall colour, a lavish feast for the senses, in sumptuous ting that features works by dozens of artists, such as has emerged, along with her brother, as a leading phi- jewel tones and molten metallics, where no taste is too extravagant and no Matthew Barney and Doug Aitken? lanthropist and an heir-apparent to the Virgin empire. Our globe-trotting continued in Paris, home to the Back in upstate New York, we were amazed to dis- behaviour beyond limits. Indulge in shades that dare you to resist. effortlessly chic Isabel Marant, the French designer cover a hidden treasure, courtesy of writer Marian whose singular brand practically kept indepen- McEvoy: The Design Library, a trove of millions of fab- Kristina O’Neill maccosmetics.com/macindulge dent women’s boutiques afloat during the economic rics that serves as an endless source of inspiration for [email protected] downturn, thanks to her obsessed customer base. fashion and interior designers. And, finally, we let our Instagram: kristina_oneill 42 wsj. magazine Editor in ChiEf Kristina O’Neill CrEativE dirECtor Magnus Berger ExECutivE Editor Chris Knutsen Managing Editor Brekke Fletcher fashion nEws/fEaturEs dirECtor Elisa Lipsky-Karasz publishEr Anthony Cenname global advErtising dirECtor Stephanie Arnold dEsign dirECtor Pierre Tardif businEss ManagEr Julie Checketts brand dirECtor Jillian Maxwell photography dirECtor Jennifer Pastore Coordinator Molly Dahl sEnior Editor Megan Conway ExECutivE ChairMan, nEws Corp Rupert Murdoch ChiEf ExECutivE, nEws Corp Robert Thomson MEn’s stylE dirECtor David Farber prEsidEnt, ChiEf ExECutivE offiCEr, dow JonEs & CoMpany, publishEr, thE wall strEEt Journal Lex Fenwick fashion MarkEt/aCCEssoriEs dirECtor David Thielebeule Editor in ChiEf, thE wall strEEt Journal Gerard Baker sEnior dEputy Managing Editor, thE wall strEEt Journal MEn’s stylE Editor Tasha Green Michael W.