LESSONS FROM TARGET’S CHALLENGE The embattled retailer faces a tough task in fi nding a replacement for Gregg Steinhafel, who stepped talks down as chairman and chief executive offi cer. about her new book, PAGE 10 “#.” PAGE 7

WWDTUESDAY, MAY 6, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY

WhiteThe dress code for men at The Costume Institute gala at TheHot Metropolitan Museum of Art Monday night stipulated “white tie and decorations,” but Rihanna upped the ante — and the sexiness — with some white of her own in the form of her Stella McCartney gown. For more on the event, which marked the opening of the “Charles James: Beyond Fashion” exhibition, see pages 4 and 5.

PHOTO BY EVAN FALK 2 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 6, 2014 WWD.COM John Lewis Marks 150th Anniversary THE BRIEFING BOX To mark the anniversary, the store has IN TODAY’S WWD By LORELEI MARFIL launched a business incubator known as JLab, which aims to identify and develop — John Lewis is marking technology innovations that will shape 150 years in retail with a clutch of the shopping experience of the future. Joe Zee with Laura and Kate Mulleavy at a cocktail party on Sunday forward-looking projects — and a dash of The festivities officially began Saturday at Curve on Bond Street. For more, see page 11 and WWD.com. nostalgia. The British retailer, founded as with an interactive, 8,202-square-foot exhibi- a draper’s shop in 1864 by an orphan called tion at the Oxford Circus flagship that high- John Lewis, may not be nearly as glamorous lights the retailer’s history. Also on display are as Selfridges, Harrods or Liberty — but it re- specially commissioned items from Alessi, mains the ever-reliable, go-to department Barbour, Jo Malone, Hackett, Le Creuset, store for the British middle class. Levi’s, L.K. Bennett and Alice Temperley. “It It is beloved of the Duchess of gives a real insight to what shopping over our Cambridge, a regular at Peter Jones, the 150 years has looked and felt like, and an op- branch of John Lewis in Sloane Square: portunity for people to see a little bit more She buys her nude tights there; did her behind the John Lewis story,” said Simon pre-wedding makeup shopping at the Fowler, the store’s managing director. store’s Bobbi Brown counter, and was For the exhibition, John Lewis tapped spotted hunting for maternity clothes students at the Royal College of Art to LEXIE MORELAND last year. The store’s tearjerker create what they consider to be the gar-

Christmas TV ads are eagerly awaited, ments of the future, and the store is also PHOTO BY and their debut is covered in detail by launching Orla Kiely’s men’s wear. Her the British press. An exclusive Ted Baker debut, 19-piece collection takes its inspi- Of late, the department store has dress for John Lewis. ration from “The Talented Mr. Ripley” On Monday morning, First Lady cut also been a digital leader, with a slick and has a Fifties Mediterranean feel. the ribbon at the unveiling of the Costume click-and-collect service that helped it notch 3.3 bil- John Lewis’ historian and archivist Judy Faraday Center at The Metropolitan Museum of Art. PAGE 6 lion pounds, or $5.1 billion, in revenue for the 2013-14 said that as far back as the Thirties, and particularly fiscal year. The John Lewis group, or partnership as in the Fifties, the retailer would regularly bring over Sophia Amoruso, founder and chief executive officer it’s known because all employees share in the profits, exclusive designs from Paris, by Lanvin and other of -based Nasty Gal, traveled to New York to generated revenues of more than 9 billion pounds, or couture houses. “There was a degree of very high- promote her new book, “#GirlBoss.” PAGE 7 $14.04 billion, including takings from its upmarket class trade as well as the more ordinary and more Waitrose supermarket chain. regular John Lewis merchandise,” she said. Otis College of Art and Design’s 32nd Annual Scholarship Benefit and Fashion Show on Saturday featured runway creations from 37 fashion design seniors. PAGE 7

Tiffany Opens on Champs-Élysées Junk Food Clothing unveiled its first store, evoking its playful and nostalgic spirit, on Abbot Kinney Boulevard in store or sales projections, but said it represented Los Angeles’ Venice neighborhood. PAGE 8 By JOELLE DIDERICH a “significant” investment. “Of course we have strong ambitions and the Billabong has tapped American fashion veteran Jeff PARIS — Tiffany & Co. is bringing fresh sparkle to Champs-Élysées must be and will be one of our key Streader as global chief operating officer. PAGE 8 the Champs-Élysées. stores,” he said. “Europe still has important growth The jeweler has opened a flagship at number 62, potential for us, also in terms of openings.” Thierry Mugler’s got a new Angel face: model Georgia marking its most important overseas opening this The store unfurls as a series of spacious areas May Jagger, who officially becomes the fragrance’s face year and joining Cartier as one of the most eminent featuring floors made of Carrara marble or French in July. PAGE 8 jewelers on the famed thoroughfare. oak, and wall panels carved from a single Canadian The corner building, located on the sunny side walnut tree. As RSI Apparels Ltd. workers gathered for payments from of the street, spans 10,765 square feet over three The story of the brand is told through an inter- their factory in Bangladesh, there was a scramble to check and floors showcasing Tiffany’s high jewelry, fine jewel- active screen near the entrance and framed pic- countercheck identities before the factory shuttered. PAGE 9 r y, celebration rings and fashion jewelry, alongside tures dotted throughout the space, which highlight accessories including sunglasses. Tiffany & Co.’s long-standing ties to Paris, where it Marc Jacheet, managing director for France and first opened a store in 1868. Gregg Steinhafel stepped down Monday from the top job at Benelux at Tiffany & Co., said the project was five Design details aimed at accentuating the luminos- Target Corp., sending shares down 3.5 percent on the New York PAGE 10 years in the making. The building, formerly occupied ity of the space include a chandelier and wall lamps Stock Exchange to close at $59.87. in the shape of magnolias de- signed by New York-based artist Gavin Haig has been named chief executive officer of A view of the Tiffany & Co. flagship on the Champs-Élysées. Michele Oka Doner, and guard- Belstaff, and will take up the role on July 21. PAGE 11 rails incorporating a stylized leaf motif in three metallic shades. Town & Country will hold its inaugural philanthropy White gold leaf is a recurring summit at Hearst Tower on May 28. PAGE 11 feature, namely in a wall paint- ing by British artist Hugo Dalton ON WWD.COM of two interweaving ribbons that symbolize commitment. The store carries products EYE: Curve threw a “Star Wars”-themed cocktail party ranging from an Eiffel Tower Sunday night — the unofficial fan-appreciation day of the CO. charm priced at 170 euros, or film — to toast Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy on $235 at current exchange, to an their fall collection. For more, see WWD.com. 11.2-carat diamond ring that retails for 1.9 million euros, or $2.6 million. There are three private sa- FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA lons and a library on the top floor @ WWD.com/social that will shortly play host to the & OF TIFFANY PHOTO COURTESY famed Tiffany Yellow Diamond, TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. by fast-food chain Quick, was completely gutted and re- which will be on loan to the Paris store for a limited WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. built over the course of a year in a spirit that melds the period to fete its official inauguration on June 10. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. house’s New York roots with its exceptional location. Jacheet noted this was especially appropriate, as the VOLUME 207, NO. 91. TUESDAY, MAY 6, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and “The story of this store is New York Art Deco stone was originally cut in Paris in the 19th century. two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine meets Parisian chic,” said Jacheet, standing be- Tiffany & Co. will also unveil a series of ex- Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, tween the store’s three-ton stainless steel door and clusive high jewelry pieces to mark the occasion. Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, a staircase curving around a 50-foot chandelier that Jacheet was sanguine about the prospect of show- NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West incorporates 1,837 glass rods — a nod to the com- ing such high-value items in a store without an air- Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 6356, pany’s founding date — that evoke the bugle beads lock entrance on one of the world’s busiest streets, Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. on a flapper skirt. at a time when the French capital has been plagued Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address “The Champs-Élysées is the most beautiful av- by high-profile jewel heists. changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. enue in the world,” he asserted. “I think you have to consider those issues with a If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with “There are plenty of other magnificent places, but lot of calm, distance and professionalism,” he said. your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be this has a special aura because it’s Paris, because “We are doing what needs to be done — and I won’t mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request it’s the city of fashion and creation, and France is reveal any details — to make sure we can do our to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse the world’s top tourist destination with 83 million job, which is to make our customers happy.” permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. visitors a year. Yo u have 100 million people walking The executive said that while the economic situ- Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we down the Champs-Élysées every year,” he added. ation in Europe remains “difficult,” he was upbeat believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR The new flagship, Tiffany & Co.’s fourth point of about the brand’s prospects. “I think we are lucky DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED sale in the French capital, is designed to increase to operate in a sector that is fairly immune to the TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, the jeweler’s visibility in Europe and further crisis. Why? Because people always have nice UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND afield. Jacheet would not disclose the cost of the things to celebrate,” he said. OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. NASTY GAL WAS NEVER BY THE BOOK. NOW BUY THE BOOK.

BY SOPHIA AMORUSO FOUNDER AND CEO OF NASTY GAL

IN STORES TODAY NASTYGAL.COM 844-GIRLBOSS 4 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 6, 2014

Taylor Swift in Sarah Jessica Parker in Oscar de la Renta Oscar de la Renta and and Harry Winston. Fred Leighton.

eye

The Jamesian Society Donna Karan and Calvin Klein Bradley Cooper in . in Ralph Lauren Purple Label.

THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART was filled with a bunch of rule-breakers on Monday night. “I’m a rebel,” A$AP Rocky shrugged, his mouth full of silver gleaming, before heading into the “Charles James: Beyond Fashion” exhibition at the annual Costume Institute gala. It was a sentiment echoed, sartorially, by most male guests — Prabal Gurung, Andrew Rosen, Joseph Altuzarra, Michael Kors, Olivier Theyskens, to name a few — who eschewed the dress code specifications of “white tie and decorations” in favor of the standard tux. “Someone stepped on them and they fell off,” Derek Lam cracked when asked where his coattails were. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez said the tails have a “shortening” effect — they tried them on and didn’t like it. “We called Anna [Wintour] and she gave us her blessing,” Hernandez said. Though only a small portion of the men followed the dictum, they garnered the most attention. “Men, we don’t get a lot of variation,” John Legend said while snailing up the receiving line in his vintage Ralph Lauren look. “It’s nice to get to do something outside the norm. It’s different, I like it.” Further into cocktails, Johnny Depp thought a new dressing mandate was in order. “This dress code should be mandatory for most events,” he said of his Ralph Lauren tailcoat, which he wore complete with spats and cane. Tom Ford is already onto the trend. “Actually, we do live in London,” said the designer. “And in June we sometimes dress in white tie.” Gisele Bündchen surveyed the room. “I’ve never seen a man in a tailcoat before, but it’s very interesting,” the model said as her husband, Tom Brady, stood nearby in a standard tuxedo. “Ver y chic.” Just as dinner was about to be seated, Kanye West and Kim Kardashian blew in. “I don’t have much to say,” the predictably terse West growled when asked about his dress-code-heeding ensemble. “It’s Lanvin. That’s all I’ll say.” Oscar de la Renta’s decorations included his Légion d’Honneur Marion Cotillard as well as a special honor he received from the King of Spain. “My in Dior haute Kanye West and wife said I look like a Latin American dictator,” said de la Renta. couture and Kim Kardashian “I said, ‘That’s what I am.’” Harry Winston. Suki Waterhouse in Burberry. in Lanvin. — TAYLOR HARRIS, KRISTI GARCED AND MARC KARIMZADEH WWD TUESDAY, MAY 6, 2014 5 WWD.COM

Beyoncé in Givenchy Lupita Nyong’o haute couture. in Prada and Cartier.

Rachel McAdams in Ralph Lauren and Harry Winston.

Blake Lively in Gucci Première.

Emma Stone in Thakoon and Emmy Rossum in Andrew Garfield in Carolina Herrera and Band of Outsiders. Van Cleef & Arpels.

Joan Smalls in Vera Wang.

Karlie Kloss Katie Holmes in in Oscar de Marchesa and la Renta. Harry Winston. FALK STEVE EICHNER AND EVAN Lily Allen in Chanel Johnny Depp in Ralph haute couture. Lauren Purple Label. PHOTOS BY 6 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 6, 2014 First Lady Helps Open Wintour Costume Center

By MARC KARIMZADEH Michelle Obama in Naeem Khan cutting the ribbon, flanked by Thomas Campbell, FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE Anna Wintour and Emily Rafferty of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

NEW YORK — So much for just another WWD.com/ mopey Monday morning. fadhio-news. On this particular one, an impres- sive fashion crowd made its way to The Metropolitan Museum of Art for the unveil- ing of the Anna Wintour Costume Center replete with First Lady Michelle Obama cutting the ribbon. Timed in conjunction with The Costume Institute’s “Charles James: Beyond Fashion” exhibition, every fashion designer in town showed up — from Michael Kors to Francisco Costa, Calvin Klein and Donna Karan to ’’ Tommy Hilfiger, , Vera Wang, Diane von Furstenberg, Kenneth Cole, Reed Krakoff, Proenza Schouler’s Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough and Zac Posen. There was also a heavy European contingent — all here for Monday night’s Costume Institute benefit. Wintour, herself a fixture in fashion week front rows, had an impressive one in her own honor. A sampling, there was Franca Sozzani, seated next to Riccardo Tisci, then Donatella Versace, Sarah Burton, Raf Simons, Stella McCartney and her husband Alasdhair Willis, Victoria Beckham, Giancarlo Giammetti, , Giambattista Valli, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli and Michael Kors and Tor y Burch Diane von Peter Copping. In another row, Oscar de Furstenberg I am here because la Renta and Sarah Jessica Parker, both cochairs at Monday night’s Costume I have such respect Institute benefit (alongside Bradley Cooper and Wintour). The evening’s chair, Aerin Lauder, also delivered remarks. and admiration for “It’s a very different Monday morn- ing from what I am used to,” Jason Wu this woman who marveled, scanning the room, which also included Baz Luhrmann and Catherine I am proud to Martin, Mario Testino, Jonathan and Lizzie Tisch and Iris Apfel (the Tisches and Apfels made significant contribu- call my friend. tions to the center’s renovations). As Jacobs put it, “With Anna, nothing — MICHELLE OBAMA is average.” That of course includes the presence of Obama, though Jacobs some-

math behind Charles James’ designs, and think, ‘Maybe I should pay closer attention to geometry this semester.’” She also expressed hope that once they visit the new Anna Wintour Costume Center, they will be inspired to see the rest of the museum. “Maybe they will spend an afternoon learning about Islamic or Asian art, maybe they will check out the photographs or view the endless galleries of American art.” She added that it is fitting to honor Wintour, who has used her platform as ed- itor in chief of Vogue beyond the pages of the magazine, disclosing ’’there is a White House fashion project in the pipeline. “Today, Anna and I are working on an idea to bring students to the White House for a fashion workshop,” Obama said. “The idea is to show young people what Ralph Lauren, it takes to succeed and how important it JOHN AQUINO Marc Jacobs and Stella McCartney is for them to commit to their education. Oscar de la Renta and Alber Elbaz. Anna understands that those of us who

PHOTOS BY have been blessed with opportunities to succeed have an obligation to reach what deflected on that point. “It’s true, the two designers’ entwined history. “I “But the truth is I am here today because back and bring others along with us, and but, well, Anna is our first lady.” said, ‘Let me see if I can make it for you.’ of Anna. I am here because I have such not just with words and praise but with “It’s an incredible turnout,” said We held the factory open for him for the respect and admiration for this woman meaningful sustained support.” Beckham. “It’s so nice to see so many weekend, and I think he’s very happy.” who I am proud to call my friend. And I Her overall message was one of in- people I know.” Thomas Campbell, director of The am here because I am so impressed by spiration. “ Yo u are here because we With such buzz about the gala’s dress Metropolitan Museum of Art, described Anna’s contribution not just to the fashion want you to dream bigger, you are here code — white tie and decorations — The Costume Institute as “a forum to ex- industry but to the any causes she shares because we believe in your progress Beckham disclosed that husband David plore not just what we wear but what this and cares about, particularly this great and we know that if you commit to your wouldn’t be in tails. “He is wearing a white medium can evoke. Our clothes punctuate American museum.” education, if you work like never before, jacket,” the designer said. “He didn’t real- a much larger conversation about who we Obama had a direct message for the if you have the courage and fail and ize he had to, and just found such a beauti- are, and how relevant our history is.” students from the Fashion Institute of fail and fail again until you finally suc- ful Ralph Lauren tuxedo that he liked.” To that end, he called the naming of the Technology and the High School for the ceed, then one day you will be just like Speaking of Lauren, he dressed sev- new Center after Wintour “a fitting tribute,” Fashion Industries, who were also in the the legendary designers who are here eral men for Monday night’s gala, includ- citing that her “ceaseless enthusiasm and audience. Like them, she hoped students today,” the First Lady offered. “One day ing his onetime arch rival from the Bronx, advocacy have been so significant to us.” may “come initially because they love you can be up here in the fashion indus- Calvin Klein. Lauren recalled getting Obama then took the stage to an en- clothes and they love shopping, but then tr y, or in any industry you choose. When Klein’s call at 8 a.m. last Thursday morn- thusiastic reception. they will learn that fashion is not just about that happens for you, I hope you give ing. “He said, ‘Ralph, I need help. I didn’t “I know that Anna hates being the cen- what we wear, but that fashion is also a back and see who you can bring up with think I was going to wear tails and don’t ter of attention, so this is all probably kill- business. It is an art, it’s a career that in- you, like Anna does.” know what to do,’” Lauren said, describ- ing her, but we love it,” she said. (Wintour volves science, engineering, accounting and For her part, Wintour was visibly ing the moment as an emotional one given herself refrained from making remarks.) so much more. People can learn about the moved by a sustained standing ovation. WWD TUESDAY, MAY 6, 2014 7 WWD.COM

Otis College of Art and Design Sophia Amoruso at the Crosby Street Hotel in Hosts Senior Fashion Show .

LOS ANGELES — Otis College of Art ular 20th-century dances. Student and Design’s 32nd Annual Scholarship winners were Hye Mi Kim for Max Benefit and Fashion Show on Saturday Studio, Natalie Salvador for Dosa and featured runway creations from 37 fash- Isabel Toledo, Arthur Thammavong ion design seniors. The graduating class for David Meister, Michelle Song for was charged with creating collections for Todd Oldham and Mark Manangan for this year’s design mentors: Amé Austin of Western Costume. Thammavong also Max Studio, Christina Kim of Dosa, David won Designer of the Year. Meister, Isabel Toledo, Todd Oldham and In addition to the prizes awarded Bobbi Garland of Western Costume. to students, the school presented its Their mandates were to design ar- Creative Vision Award to Eddie Bauer chitecturally inspired separates, ethe- president and chief executive officer real handcrafted dresses, convert- Michael Egeck, the Design Legend Award ible jersey evening dresses, plus-size to Leon Max and the Design Innovation LEXIE MORELAND sportswear, Native American-inspired Award to Isabel and Ruben Toledo.

gowns and costumes inspired by pop- — MARCY MEDINA PHOTO BY

Michelle Natalie Sophia Amoruso Talks ‘#GirlBoss’ Song Salvador THE WINNERS was estimated to have sales of almost for Todd for the By Oldham’s Dosa RACHEL STRUGATZ $130 million. The e-tailer moved be- project. project. yond wholesaling and built a signifi- NEW YORK — Sophia Amoruso, found- cant in-house design team housed in a er and chief executive officer of the Los 50,000-square-foot space in downtown

Angeles-based digital darling Nasty Gal, Los Angeles. Amoruso has also been came to town to promote her new book vocal about plans to open a physical “#GirlBoss” — and promote it heavily store in the near future. — but she still managed to squeeze in a “Most people who read this book will little fun. be leagues ahead of where I was when “Saturday night I went to Paul’s Baby I started Nasty Gal,” Amoruso said. “I Grand, except I woke’’ up feeling like s--t hope they will be confident that they can Sunday,” Amoruso told WWD Monday, seat- achieve whatever they want.” ed on a couch in her suite at the Crosby She has also started the #GirlBoss Street Hotel here. “But I’m glad I got it out Foundation, focused on empowering of my system before the onslaught begins. the next generation of female entrepre- Maybe I’ll have toast, but I’m not doing any neurs within the creative community. A more drinking this week.” portion of proceeds from the book will The “onslaught” is a packed schedule go toward the cause, and four times a of appearances, where the iconoclas- year a grant will be awarded to a female tic ceo will speak with the BBC, ABC, pursing a creative role — ranging from “Good Morning America,” NPR and $500 to $15,000. Each recipient will gain Katie Couric about her new book. exposure through the foundation and She will also partake in less tradi- Nasty Gal’s digital channels. tional promotional activities — like And on May 19, Nasty Gal will go back an event today based on chapter four, to its vintage roots — bringing back a “Shoplifting and Hitchhiking Saved My special eBay store for 10 days. Here, Amoruso weighs in on advice, obstacles and her favor- ite thing to do in New York City:

Most people who read BEST ADVICE: “‘Cash is king.’ — this book will be leagues My dad.” WORST ADVICE: “Usually really ahead of where I was technical advice that urges me to ignore my gut and use some text- book thinking. I don’t even ask for when I started Nasty Gal. advice half the time. I’ve always — SOPHIA AMORUSO taken advice with a grain of salt.” WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR BIGGEST Arthur Natalie OBSTACLE?: “Myself. I’m really good Thammavong Salvador for Life,” where Amoruso will talk about at getting in my own way and creating ex- for David the Isabel dumpster-diving for bagels. The brand cuses for not doing things. Everything is Meister’s Toledo for will give away 50 signed books between so much easier when you do it — in an- project. Lane Bryant 8 a.m. and 2 p.m. in Union Square along- ticipating, things are a lot more painful. project. side four #GirlBoss-emblazoned dump- I’ve had to learn to bite the bullet and do sters filled with bagels (wrapped in things — rather than obsess beforehand.” plastic and also affixed with #GirlBoss stickers). Amoruso will make an appear- MOST IMPORTANT LESSON THUS FAR: ance, the exact time of which will be re- “There is no normal. What my job was a vealed on Twitter this morning. few years ago was completely different “This was Christian’s idea. It’s really than what it is today. As soon as I have it cool to have people with more insane dialed in, the company changes and the ideas than I do,” she said, referring to team changes and my role changes as a Nasty Gal’s vice president of brand’’ mar- result. What the company needs is al- keting, Christian Parkes. ways evolving, and I don’t get to choose Taxi toppers that say, “If this is a what I want to do as much as I thought I man’s world, who cares? #GirlBoss” would be now — which is OK. It keeps have been making their way around the me in this position of learning new city. And the company set up a working things and keeping me humble. There is Hye Mi FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE hotline at 1-844-GIRLBOSS offering a always something I don’t know, and I’m Kim for “quick guide to an awesome life” that comfortable with that.” the Max WWD.com/ features advice from Amoruso on fash- Studio fashion-news. ion, work and money. FAVORITE THING TO DO IN NEW YORK CITY: “I project. The ceo admitted to staying up late really like Roberta’s Pizza in Bushwick.” Sunday grilling herself — and getting grilled — on Nasty Gal’s philosophies, WHAT SHE DOES WHEN SHE’S NOT WORKING: which include sayings like “Own it,” “No a- “Play with my poodle, Donna Summer, -holes” and “Have fun and keep it weird.” and hang out with my boyfriend. I just

AMY GRAVES Nasty Gal had humble beginnings. moved into a house [in the Hollywood Amoruso started selling vintage looks Hills] that I bought two years ago that out of her apartment via an eBay store was being renovated. I like to hike

PHOTOS BY in 2006 — and by 2013, the company around the hills.” 8 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 6, 2014 Billabong Taps Streader BEAUTY BEAT platforms we need to improve Georgia May Jagger to Front Mugler Scent By EVAN CLARK our speed to market, inventory turn and product margins,” Fiske THIERRY MUGLER’S got “Beware of Angels.” BILLABONG has named said. “We have identified supply a new Angel face: model Georgia In Europe, the print ads American fashion veteran Jeff chain as a major opportunity for Georgia May Jagger. May will make their debut on Streader global chief operating profit improvement and one of Jagger officially be- Jagger June 23, with TV following officer. the seven strategic comes the fragrance’s in September. In the U.S., Streader worked Jeff Streader planks in our turn- spokeswoman in July. print, digital and TV adver- most recently in around program.” Jagger’s mother, Jerry tising is planned for fall. private equity, as Streader noted, Hall, lent her image to Jagger’s quite fond of operating partner “With Billabong’s the fragrance from 1995 Mugler apparel, as well. at Marlin Equity, global footprint, I to 1997. Former faces in- She said she planned to but before that he believe there is a clude Eva Mendes and wear a custom Mugler served three years great opportunity Naomi Watts. creation to the Met ball as Guess Inc.’s se- to create scale and “My mother was a muse of Mugler and ap- Monday night. “It’s very sleek, and very black and nior vice president capability across peared regularly in his Paris runway shows. I have not as poufy as the theme — but the best part is I of supply chain and the company, ben- such wonderful memories of the fragrance and feel quite comfortable in it,” said Jagger, noting that earlier held lead- efiting both our my mother’s involvement with the Mugler brand,” this was her first Met ball. “It was incredible to go ership roles at VF cost structure and said Jagger, who also works with mass color brand through the Mugler archives and see so many in- Corp., Kellwood growth profile.” Rimmel. “It’s very special to me to be following in credible dresses. It was quite inspiring to see it all.” Co., Oxford After an ex- my mother’s footsteps.” “Over the last 20 years, Angel has become a Industries and Fasturn Inc. tended battle involving a host TV and print ads, photographed by Sølve cult fragrance, among the top 10 best sellers in the Streader reports to Neil of bidders, Billabong sharehold- Sundsbø, were shot last December, said Jagger. world,” said Sandrine Groslier, global president of Fiske, chief executive officer of ers approved a refinancing deal “It was a very creative ad. At one point, I was Clarins Fragrance Group. “Today, we want to offer the Australian company. this year that gives U.S. investors painted blue and covered in sparkles. I was still Angel a muse worthy of its audacity and magnifi- “Jeff’s deep experience in Oaktree Capital Management scrubbing glitter off at Christmas! But I actually cence. Georgia May Jagger is a charismatic and global supply chain and opera- and Centerbridge Partners a 40.8 quite enjoy a different makeup look sometimes,” intelligent woman, blending an innate glamour tions will help us build the global percent stake in the company. she said with a laugh. The ads carry the tag line with a rock attitude.” — JULIE NAUGHTON Junk Food Shows Eclectic Spirit in L.A. Store

rapid gentrification transform- foot space, accentuated with a By KHANH T.L. TRAN ing the mellow neighborhood brick archway, skylights and bow located just a mile away from truss ceiling, across the street. LOS ANGELES — After 16 years Venice Beach. While Junk Food New York-based Rag & Bone de- of making T-shirts emblazoned falls into the casual camp with clined to comment. with flying superheroes, legend- knit-centric neighbors such as Junk Food’s debut in direct- ary rockers and cuddly cartoon Aviator Nation and Alternative to-consumer retailing can help characters, Junk Food Clothing Apparel, LFrank Jewelry posts offset declining wholesale has unveiled its first store that a security guard on the side- revenue for its parent com- evokes the same playful and walk to protect its diamond and pany, Delta Apparel Inc. of nostalgic spirit. sapphire-encrusted baubles. Greenville, S.C., which posted Opened on Abbot Kinney Gant, Jack Spade and Kendall $490.5 million in sales in its last Boulevard in Los Angeles’ Conrad sit in between as con- fiscal year. In its second fiscal Venice neighborhood over the temporary options on the strip, quarter that ended March 29, weekend, the 2,500-square-foot whereas Caudalie and Le Labo Delta said sales of Junk Food space displays Junk Food’s help beautify locals. products fell 3 percent due to knits printed with licensed and Mike Palermo and As a result of the fashion “softness at larger retail cus- original graphics in what comes Jennifer Somer influx, retail rents on Abbot tomers.” Along with Salt Life, across as a midcentury modern Kinney have surged. Yearly Art Gun, Soffe and The Game, beach hut decorated by Etsy. In Culver City, Calif.- the front room, candylike globe big bright beads and a 10-foot- store designer Danny Gonzalez based Junk Food lights made for the 1904 World’s wide rug is woven from Junk customized weather-beaten is part of Delta’s Fair hang from exposed raf- Food T-shirts that were dyed signs and carved a cash register branded division, ters, metal pipes functioning as every color of the rainbow. Local out of mahogany and white mar- which reported clothing racks are looped with craftsmen commissioned by ble. In the back, a green couch that second-quarter and Fifties-era hoop chairs re- sales fell 4.6 per- strung with climber’s rope de- cent to $50.3 million marcate a living room, where from $52.6 million a customers can lounge and par- year ago. In the past ticipate in weekend activities, year, Junk Food like children’s art classes. more than doubled “We like the idea of this the positions in its place where people go beyond retail and e-com- buying a T, ” said Junk Food cre- merce department, ative director Mike Palermo. which now includes Also elevating Junk Food be- five out of its total yond its knits that retail from 120 employees. $30 to $70 are wares for the Junk Food is home and bathroom and appar- also launching sub- el for men, women and children brands to comple- from other brands. In addition ment its massive to jeans from Tellason, Genetic licensing business. Denim, McGuire and Joe’s Jeans Retailing from $58 that complete the laid-back look, to $176, Stray Heart the store also carries Baggu landed in bou- leather totes, Malin + Goetz tiques this spring soap, Hortense jewelry and vin- with women’s Ts tage clothing. A 200-square-foot and tank tops bear-

DONATO SARDELLA DONATO The new store eyewear shop-in-shop for Classic on Abbot Kinney ing phrases such Specs is a harbinger of future re- Boulevard. as “drop out” and LA LAME tail partnerships. “fashionably late.” , Exclusive Suppliers of Stretch Fabrics PHOTOS BY “It’ll bring the whole aspira- For men, K38, tional beach lifestyle to life,” said rents run between $108 and $168 named after a secret surf spot in Junk Food president Jennifer a square foot, or more than triple Baja, Mexico, is offering T-shirts STRETCH AND RIGID ALLOVER AND NARROW LACES, PVC LEATHER, SPACERS Somer. “To not have that [other from $30 a square foot a decade printed with the names of wave- POWER MESH, MICROFIBER KNITS, METALLIC TULLE AND LACES, FOIL merchandise] in the store is a ago, according to Blatteis & riding destinations, like “Pt. GLITTER, FLOCK, EMBOSSING, BURNOUT PRINTS ON: MESH, TRICOT AND VELVETS huge miss for the customer and Schnur Inc. and LoopNet. Dume” and “San O.” The store NOVELTY ELASTIC TRIM: METALLIC, SHEER RUFFLES, LACE, PRINTS AND RHINESTONES the whole brand experience.” Junk Food expects annual is the only place that will sell The opening of Junk Food’s sales for the store to range be- K38, which retails from $49 to store accelerates the fashion tween $700 and $1,000 a square $69, before the line expands to industry’s takeover of Abbot foot. Moreover, the brand’s exec- Beams in Japan in the fall. Kinney, whose split between utives and neighbors are buzzing “This is really the time when LA LAME, Inc. high-end sophistication and re- about the arrival of Rag & Bone, we’re taking the brand to the laxed casualwear represents the which is securing a 4,200-square- next level,” Somer said. WWD TUESDAY, MAY 6, 2014 9 WWD.COM

TEXTILES Alliance Pays Displaced Workers as Inspections Continue

in Mirpur, Dhaka, was due for a becomes the difference in treat- By MAYU SAINI review panel Monday. Workers wait to ment for workers in the same A fourth factory, Bay Fashions be paid at RSI building, a BGMEA official ob- CHITTAGONG, Bangladesh — Ltd., also in Chittagong, has Apparels Ltd. served. Although the alliance As workers at RSI Apparels Ltd. been referred to the review is making the payment to their gathered for payments from their panel as well. workers, the others will get noth- factory, there was a scramble to Rabin explained that, ac- ing when their factories close check and countercheck identi- cording to the law, if the owner down as the entire building poses ties last week, in a solemn mo- has another facility within a dis- structural risks for occupants. ment before the factory shuttered. tance of 8 kilometers, workers This is going to initiate labor The Alliance for Bangladesh are under obligation to go that unrest, something that the gar- Worker Safety has agreed to pay distance. If they do not wish to, ment industry can hardly afford workers of factories that are shut then the owners are not obliged at this time, he said. down for safety reasons 50 percent to compensate the workers. “We appreciate that the of their wages for a period of two Jan Fabrics reportedly has Alliance is helping with payments months. The other half is paid by another factory into which the to workers,” Anjan Shekhar Das the factory owner. workers have been absorbed at of RSI observed, “it makes a huge Payments were being made the present time. difference. But we want the oth- on the first floor of the RSI plant. RSI Apparels, which was re- SAINI MAYU ers, like the accord, to come for- The total amount — 2.03 million viewed on April 17 and 18, was shut ward with similar help.” taka, or $26,260 at current ex- down two days later, Rabin said. RSI Apparels was also on a PHOTO BY change, was paid to the workers, Payments were made to the list of factories that Wal-Mart au- with the amount of 44,146 taka, workers last Wednesday in a But there was no trouble. lose any of that trust. The cost of dited last year and barred from or $570, left pending to the 10 process overseen by factory offi- Following recommenda- all these things is very high.” production after the retailer un- workers who were not present. cials, nine members of BRAC, an tions by the team of inspec- He explained that part of dertook in-depth inspections in The workers were both tear- international development agen- tors, by the alliance or the the reason Rana Plaza was Bangladesh relating to electrical, ful and grateful. The factory, cy that is helping to disburse the accord, a review committee such a severe case was not sim- fire and building safety. “These started at the location in 2001, payments and a member of the makes a final decision. This ply structural damage. “Rana facility audits are conducted had some old hands and many alliance itself, along with sever- is a powerful committee com- Plaza was a different sort of ac- by accredited and internation- of them touched the feet of the al security personnel from the prising representatives of the cident. On many of the floors ally recognized auditing firms product manager in respect and government. government; the accord; alli- of the building, there were 500 and are based on our Ethical gratitude and a farewell. Ahm Mojammal, senior pro- ance; Bangladesh University of KVA generators and the vibra- Sourcing scope. A factory that The alliance is a group of 26 gram manager of BRAC, told Engineering and Technology, or tions from each caused severe has been assessed as ‘red-failed/ retailers and brands including WWD that 340 people were paid. BUET; the Bangladesh Garment structural damage. After Rana unauthorized’ is one in which Wal-Mart Stores Inc. and Gap Inc. The decision to close the factory Manufacturers and Exporters Plaza, BGMEA inspected facto- our independent audits have that has been conducting inspec- appears irrevocable and hard to Association, or BGMEA, and ries to ensure that no such situa- found serious violations of our tions for structural, electrical fix because of the level of struc- the Bangladesh Knitwear tion would be replicated. At this ethical sourcing standards. Red- and fire safety in supplier facto- tural damage. The workers leav- Manufacturers & Exporters time, the inspection teams that failed/unauthorized factories are ries. About 450 inspections out of ing know they will find other Association, or BKMEA. are checking should take more not permitted to produce mer- 630 have been completed so far. jobs, but not at this factory. Anjan Shekhar Das, who is immediate measures, such as chandise for Wal-Mart,” the com- Separately, the Accord on “We were very cautious and managing director of RSI, is also reducing the load of the produc- pany had noted at the time. Fire and Building Safety in were very aware as we made a director at BGMEA and under- tion line, reducing the number Alliance payments are made Bangladesh represents more these payments, to make sure it stands the complexity of the situ- of workers at a location, and give from a $5 million worker-safety than 150 European retailers and was the right person,” said Ahm ation in which he finds himself. factory owners an exit plan.” fund, which is being used for the brands and is inspecting more Mojammal. “We checked iden- “It is a very dangerous situation Two other factories in the disbursements that come up as than 1,545 factories, of which tity cards, photographs of the for the owners,” he said. “We are same building as RSI Apparels inspections proceed. They will about 350 have been completed. person, the records within the grateful for the help and appre- — Kent Garments Pvt. Ltd. and continue to be made in associa- RSI is one of two factories company, and when we faced a ciate that the alliance is putting ShahChand Garments Ltd. — are tion with BRAC. that has been shut down re- problem, asked other workers to in this money and working to de- reportedly part of the National Meanwhile, the alliance is cently after inspections by the help us make that recognition. velop the garment industry. But on Tripartite Action Plan, under also making another round of alliance teams. The other, Jan Payments were made in cash the other hand, as in this factory, which the 1,200 factories that are critical checks. Last week, a com- Fabrics, is also in Chittagong. and signatures taken on rev- it is in a rented building and there not being covered by the alliance mittee of electrical, structural “There are structural integ- enue stamp paper. is nothing we all can do to make it and accord are being inspected and safety experts flew in from rity issues in both,” M. Rabin, Those that didn’t get pay- work. Meanwhile, we have some by engineers from BUET with the the U.S. and along with a local managing director of the alli- ments from the alliance, such as goods in transit, we are working International Labor Organization team in Dhaka, will check back ance, told WWD. the administrative staff and driv- with banks, with orders, with our as a neutral observer. on factories that have already un- MAM Garments Ltd, which is ers, raised a murmur of protest. clients and are struggling not to The question at this point dergone inspection, Rabin said.

be sustainable for five years. I don’t see it Looking Beyond the Five-Year Plan in Bangladesh sustainable for 10, 15, 20 years. At some point between now and this first five-year Retailers and brands created two sepa- “There is no substitute for the level program, there has to be engagement with By KRISTI ELLIS rate safety initiatives in the wake of the of activism on the part of your compa- the government to build capacity and to tragedies in the country. North American nies,” Donaldson said. “There is also no have them understand that the long-term WASHINGTON — The factory tragedies companies formed the Alliance for substitute for the involvement of the EU responsibility and health of their economy in Bangladesh have transformed the Bangladesh Worker Safety, now comprising and U.S., and the key donor countries relies on their own ability [to enforce].” rules of ethical sourcing in developing 26 companies including Wal-Mart Stores like the Netherlands.” Avedis Seferian, president and countries, but questions remain about Inc., Target Corp., Gap Inc. and VF Corp. Nate Herman, vice president of interna- chief executive officer of Worldwide how sustainable the industry’s efforts The second initiative — the Accord on Fire tional trade at the AAFA, said the “big ques- Responsible Accredited Production, will be when the five-year commitment and Building Safety in Bangladesh — has tion” confronting the industry in light of the stressed the need for more government in Bangladesh ends. 150 companies, including H&M, Marks & accord and alliance expiring in five years involvement and industry incentives that Industry and labor officials tack- Spencer, Carrefour, Primark and C&A. is, “How do you make the changes that are reward the good players. led that question at a recent American Companies taking part in both initia- happening right now in Bangladesh sustain- “ Yo u can talk about improving in-fac- Apparel & Footwear Association confer- tives made a five-year commitment to able over the long term?” tory conditions and circumstances, and ence, acknowledging that improvements improve fire, electrical and structural Darling agreed. “That is probably better fire equipment and new fire en- have been made in Bangladesh’s gar- deficiencies in Bangladesh. the biggest challenge that is being faced gines, but if those fire engines can’t get ment industry in the wake of the Tazreen Nancy Donaldson, director of the right now. The Bangladesh government to the factory because the traffic does not Fashions Ltd. fire and Rana Plaza build- International Labor Organization’s has not been particularly engaged over allow that to happen, this conversation ing collapse that claimed the lives of more Washington office, called the industry the last 10 years that the industry has ends up being fairly moot,” Seferian said. than 1,240 workers in the past 18 months. initiatives “groundbreaking,” but ques- grown, and faces its own internal politi- “ Yo u have to have more capacity building “With the goal of inspecting [about tioned how sustainable they would be cal issues and challenges.” and more government involvement.” 2,200 factories] by July, I think there three to five years from now. Darling said Bangladesh’s national That being said, Seferian said the in- has been a huge commitment to stay in “We think what sustainable means is building code has been in place for 10 to dustry can’t rely on the Bangladeshi gov- the country,” said Rick Darling, execu- a living wage, which has already hap- 15 years and was “pretty adequate” until ernment alone, but needs to create more tive director of government and public pened,” she said. “[The Bangladeshi gov- Rana Plaza exposed the government’s incentives for good practices and compli- affairs at Li & Fung Trading Ltd. “It’s a ernment] did a first round of changing weak enforcement mechanism. ant factories. He said the “silver lining” long-term commitment to realize that our labor laws and the regulations are pend- “So the sad thing about this whole in a “very dark cloud” in Bangladesh is industry makes a lot of money out of a ing now, but more work needs to be done. process is the laws were in place — the that other apparel producing countries country like Bangladesh and has a great This is very basic stuff.” fire safety codes were in place…and they have taken notice. obligation to go in and make sure that She said the ILO’s Better Work were never enforced,” Darling said. “So “Countries like Cambodia are taking people who work in our supply chain are Bangladesh program recently launched, while the industry is taking on the role of steps [to raise the minimum wage and im- safe and empowered, and able to a make but since it is on such a “big scale,” of- government — it has hired civil engineer prove conditions],” he added. “Myanmar is decision on their own when they see ficials are working on a geographic basis firms to do inspections, for example — it looking to have capacity building up front. something going wrong in the factory.” to “create density for best practices. isn’t sustainable in the long term. It might They all want to head this off at the pass.” 10 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 6, 2014 Tough Search Ahead, as Steinhafel Era Ends

Target has hired from outside the com- Gregg Steinhafel they get newness.” By SHARON EDELSON pany in recent years, naming Jeff Jones Other candidates Berglass would rec- executive vice president and chief mar- ommend include Ahrendts and Farah. TIME FINALLY RAN OUT for Gregg keting officer in 2012 and last month, Bob “Roger was never given the platform,” Steinhafel — and now Target has the tough DeRodes was appointed chief informa- Berglass said. “There would be no one task of finding a new chairman, chief ex- tion officer, succeeding Beth Jacobs, who between Roger and the consumer. I think ecutive officer and president in the midst was ousted as a result of the data breach. he would be an extraordinary leader.” of the retailer’s ongoing struggles. Target said it was continuing its search to Whoever takes over will face mas- Steinhafel, 60, stepped down Monday fill two subordinate posts, chief informa- sive challenges in repairing Target’s after six years in the top job and sev- tion security officer and chief compliance reputation that was damaged by the eral months of speculation he might officer. DeRodes, who will lead the com- data breach and fixing its ill-fated ex- be pushed out, sending Target’s shares pany’s information technology, worked pansion into Canada while improving down 3.5 percent on the New York Stock at the Center for CIO Leadership, the the merchandising in its U.S. stores. Exchange to close at $59.87. They have Department of Homeland Security, the Steinhafel’s tenure was a troubled one, slowly recovered from the damage done U.S. Secretary of Defense and the U.S. and industry analysts said his depar- by disclosures of a massive data breach Department of Justice. ture was the result of a confluence of in December since hitting a 52-week low “They have to cast a wide net,” said factors, with the data breach perhaps of $54.66 in midday trading on Feb. 4. Kirk Palmer, president of Kirk Palmer GOMBERT EPA/ANDREW BY PHOTO being the last straw.

Moody’s said this is “a very inop- Associates, a search firm in Manhattan, “In the last 10 years, the company has portune time for a change at the top of of finding Steinhafel’s successor. “It the data breach. It really hurt the com- placed big investments on a number of Target given the challenges the compa- depends on how far afield they want to pany financially. Now they have the ex- fronts, including PFresh remodels, the ny is facing on multiple fronts, namely go. Certainly they could go into the gro- pense of taking the step to move to chip 5% Red Card and deep investments in the credit card breach and its potential cery industry. Target has to be mindful and PIN technology. They need to take Canada,” said Charles Grom, a retail ana- fallout, a sluggish start to its Canadian of how [Wall] Street is going to respond. that step to rebuild confidence.” Target lyst at Sterne Agee. “We would argue that expansion and a’’ difficult operating en- They have to look at companies with a has said it will spend $100 million to im- these investments have not delivered the vironment in its core U.S. market.” The certain scale. There aren’t a lot of peo- plement chip and PIN technology. “When returns that the company originally ex- credit-rating agency said it is not taking ple capable of running a company as all the lawsuits are settled, it’s going to pected, which has led to significant deteri- any action at this time. large as Target,” which had $71.3 billion cost Target more than $100 million. oration in the company’s brand equity and Target tapped chief financial offi- in sales last year. Target could have prevented this breach. uninspiring traffic and frequency trends. cer John Mulligan as interim ceo and “There aren’t that many companies They were getting signals but weren’t In retrospect, the company may have been hired search firm Korn Ferry to find with that size and scale in our business. picking up on them.” better served developing a world-class Steinhafel’s successor. His departure — Why not take someone in the number-two “Certainly the data breach was the omnichannel-Internet presence, which it no reason was given for him stepping position at Macy’s Inc., like Peter Sachse?” final straw,” said Amy Koo, senior ana- severely lacks today, to compete with mul- down; he still has to work out his com- “Target’s number-one challenge is lyst at Kantar Research. “Target has had tiple retailers on a number of fronts.” pensation package, and he will remain Amazon,” said Matt Nemer, a retail ana- a lot of challenges for the last several Steinhafel worked for Target for 35 a consultant to Target in the interim — lyst at Wells Fargo. “They’re going up years. The loss of shoppers in general” years and was named president in 1999. set off an immediate guessing game as to against somebody that has more breadth, has been the most troubling. “They’ve He became ceo in 2008 and chairman who might take the reins of the nation’s better shipping and a great loyalty pro- had a notable number of missteps in in 2009. He started as a merchandising second-largest discounter. gram.” Nemer said Target has been market expansion in Canada. And there’s trainee with the Minneapolis-based mass how they’re approaching urban. They’ve merchant in 1979. reached a steady stage of saturation of Target’s board cited his skills in lead- the suburban box,” but Target’s efforts ing the company “through unprecedent- There aren’t a lot of people capable of to infiltrate dense urban neighborhoods ed challenges, navigating the financial in the U.S. and Canada has been slow. recession, reacting to challenges with Target is reportedly testing one Express Target’s expansion into Canada and suc- running a company as large as Target. store and eight City Targets, the smaller cessfully defending the company through — KIRK PALMER, KIRK PALMER ASSOCIATES format retail concept. a high-profile proxy battle.” A more fundamental question may “The last several months have test- be whether Target has lost some of its ed Target in unprecedented ways,” The names that have surfaced as po- playing catch-up with its Web site ever touch in terms of merchandising. “How Steinhafel said in his letter of resigna- tential candidates cover familiar faces, since it brought it in-house in 2011 from relevant is Target in indicating what’s tion. “From the beginning, I have been long shots and simply speculation, in- Amazon, which was operating the site. cool today?” said Koo. “It doesn’t have committed to ensuring Target emerges cluding Ken Hicks, chairman, president “They could go outside the indus- the same resonance that it used to have. from the data breach a better company, and ceo of Foot Locker; Glenn Murphy, try and hire someone with a digital For a retailer that rested its laurels on its more focused than ever on delivering for chairman and ceo Gap Inc.; Diane Neal, background. Target is ripe for a new fashion credentials, it can’t define what’s our guests. We have already begun tak- former ceo of Bath & Body Works; Greg direction and an infusion of new lead- cool anymore. Target has to find someone ing a number of steps to further enhance Sandfort, ceo of Tractor Supply Co.; Peter ership and new thinking,” said Carol who has some experience and knowledge data security, putting the right people, Sachse, chief stores officer of Macy’s Spiekerman, president of New Market of the fashion world, and they have to be processes and systems in place. With sev- Inc.; Sharon McCollum, cfo of Best Buy; Builders. “It has been insular, but look- very good at marketing.” eral key milestones behind us, now is the Mindy Grossman, ceo of HSN; Andy Bond, ing outside may be gaining momentum. “Could they get someone out of re- right time for new leadership at Target.” chairman of Asda’s executive committee; The template for the types of people tirement like Allen Questrom?” Nemer Following the news of Steinhafel’s Neil Ashe, president and ceo of global who would be good choices include asked, referring to the retired ceo who dismissal, prior to the opening bell, e-commerce at Wal-Mart Stores Inc., and Marigay McKee and Angela Ahrendts. turned around Barneys New York and Target’s shares slipped in early trading Sharen Jester Turney, president and ceo The two women have th’’is right-brain, J.C. Penney Co. Inc. “There’s not a lot of and didn’t rebound. of Victoria’s Secret. Industry observers left-brain, open-minded-but-minding- potential people, so you have to be cre- Target has had a tough time attract- also threw out such names as Marigay the-numbers type of balance. Someone ative. There’s Wal-Mart’s Bill Simon or ing shoppers lately. The retailer rang up McKee, president of Saks Fifth Avenue; from Amazon or Google or platforms Neil Ashe, who runs the global e-com- 2.7 percent fewer transactions in 2013 Angela Ahrendts, senior vice president that are expanding into more of a re- merce business. Target’s long-term suc- than 2012, including a 5.5 percent drop of retail and online stores at Apple, who tail sensibility and that have the digital cess over a decade-plus has been driven in the fourth quarter, the worst result just took the post after serving as ceo of DNA could be good. Retailers hiring by merchandising, unique product and since Target began reporting the met- Burberry; Karen Katz, president and ceo from consumer packaged goods compa- great marketing.” ric in 2008. The difficulties of getting its of Neiman Marcus; Roger Farah, presi- nies is becoming yesterday’s model very Les Berglass, founder and chairman Canadian operations up and running dent and chief operating officer of Ralph quickly. It’s going more toward the digi- of Berglass + Associates, said Katz of contributed to a 45.9 percent reduction Lauren, and Bill Simon, president and tal space. Neiman Marcus “has done the most fabu- in Target’s fourth-quarter profits, to $520 ceo of Wal-Mart U.S., who no doubt would “There are a lot of shifts happen- lous job of taking the wall down between million, and a 34.3 percent drop in full- be barred from taking the job by a non- ing in retail,” Spiekerman continued. the digital universe and brick-and-mor- year net income, to $1.97 billion. Hurt compete clause. “[Target] is in the midst of playing a tar universe. What Karen has does fabu- by the breach and excessively difficult There also has been speculation that mean game of catch-up in the digital lously at Neiman’s is she challenges the weather, fourth-quarter revenues slid Target might lure back Robert Ulrich, space. In the meantime, Wal-Mart is consumer in a way that the consumer 5.3 percent, to $21.52 billion, while same- 70, who was Steinhafel’s predecessor. He really putting the pedal to the metal, understands. She could return a patina stores sales were off 2.5 percent during stepped down in 2008 when he reached and Target hasn’t fully awakened to the to the business.” Katz would know Target the crucial three-month period. Target’s mandated retirement age of 65. opportunity of leveraging its physical from the holiday collection Neiman’s did The recent data breach was ultimate- Given the breadth of the names ban- scale. One of Target’s top priorities has with the discounter two years ago, al- ly a major factor in the company’s deci- died about by industry insiders, one been to make sure online unique items though that was widely viewed as a fail- sion to halt share repurchases, which thing is apparent: There is no clear are able to make their way into physical ure for both retailers. have been a mainstay of Target’s finan- candidate. Target has always been an stores. It used to be that making sure Berglass suggested Diane Neal, who cial model. “In light of these challenges, insular company, developing talent and online assortments matched in-store is on the Fossil board, and previously Nomura believes that a change in leader- promoting from within. Industry ana- was important. Now, digital space is ran Bath & Body Works, among other top ship at Target could be a positive catalyst lysts seemed to believe that the fact that being viewed as an endless aisle. Target retail assignments. “Diane understands and could likely include an individual Target hired a search firm may rule out is one of the few retailers that remains contemporary retail better than most. from outside the corporation,” said re- as a contender Kathryn Tesija, executive store-centric.” She would be a dark horse,” Berglass tail analyst Robert Drbul. “While this is vice president, merchandising and sup- “Target is adrift,” said Max Goldberg, said, citing her specialty experience at clearly not the departure that we or Mr. ply chain, at the retailer. president of Goldberg and Associates, a BBW as well as Gap, Mervyns and as a Steinhafel likely envisioned, he was in- “It’s a testament to the fact that they -based consultancy that helps merchant for a long time at Target. strumental in many successful initiatives know what they like, they develop ex- businesses from start-ups to Fortune “Target needs newness at point of over the years and helped Target become ecutives and they keep them,” said one 500 companies formulate branding and sale,” Berglass said. “That’s number one. a leader in the retail industry.” search executive. “Clearly they’ve made business strategies. “Target is absolutely It hasn’t lost its franchise with consum- — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS the decision to go outside.” shell-shocked from what happened with ers, who are incredibly forgiving when FROM ARNOLD J. KARR WWD TUESDAY, MAY 6, 2014 11 Inside Other Criteria’s SoHo store. WWD.COM

the discrepancies between the wealthiest and those at the other end of the spectrum. FASHION SCOOPS Based on the Forbes World’s Billionaires list for 2013, Bertelli, together with his wife Miuccia Prada, and other fashion giants BELSTAFF’S NEW BOSS: Gavin Haig has been night before the Met ball — to toast Kate including Giorgio Armani, Luxottica’s Leonardo named chief executive officer of Belstaff, and Laura Mulleavy on their fall collection. Del Vecchio and Renzo Rosso, is among the 10 and will take up the role on July 21. Notables — Karolina Kurkova, Michelle richest Italians with assets amounting to An announcement is expected today. Harper and Jenny Shimizu, Anya Ziourova, Irina 75 billion euros, or $104 billion at current Haig, 50, succeeds Reinhard Mieck, ceo of Kravchenko, Keegan Singh, Ryan Korban and exchange. But Bertelli, in an interview Belstaff ’s parent Labelux Group, who cohost Kirsten Dunst, who wasn’t doing with La Repubblica on Monday, took issue had been filling the role temporarily. interviews — dotted the space. The with Censis’ view of Forbes’ ranking and Harry Slatkin, one of the original investors sisters were also on hand to sign limited- of Mickey Mouse, an exclusive jewelry its disapproving attitude towards wealth. in Belstaff alongside and edition tomes, each hand-painted by collaboration with Los Angeles-based “I don’t like to be labeled as Scrooge Labelux, exited as ceo last year. their oft-collaborator Rebekah Miles. fine jewelry brand Hoorsenbuhs and McDuck; we are industrialists who operate Haig, who is British, spent the past “I made them a little planet,” Borissova self-portraits by Tim Noble and Sue Webster, in different sectors, who work also on 20 years at Compagnie Financière continued, motioning over to the titled “Black Bottoms,” wherein the Saturdays and provide jobs to thousands Richemont, where he most recently installation at the center of the room — artists “basically ink their a-- of people,” Bertelli said in the served as international managing mannequins sheathed in the fall collection holes and sit on the paper,” FOR MORE interview. The entrepreneur director of the company’s biggest brand, standing in heaps of sand, sprinkled with said Jason Beard, creative SCOOPS, SEE contended that it is wrong to add Cartier. During his tenure at Cartier, he gold glitter, like a trio of spectacularly director of the company, a negative connotation to those also spent 12 years in Tokyo, where he dressed astronauts who’d just crash- during a walk-through of the WWD.com. that create jobs and wealth. Censis was simultaneously president and ceo of landed on a strange planet. “We wanted store Monday. “So something captures only a part of today’s both Cartier and Richemont Japan. Prior something artsy fartsy,” Borissova said. for everyone.” situation, he said, “but does not to Cartier, he worked for Dunhill, another During a break from signing The Broome Street store marks Other provide in-depth explanations.…Inflation Richemont brand, and Wedgwood. duties, Laura said the fete was a bit Criteria’s first overseas expansion — the and working under the table [marked ] — SAMANTHA CONTI of a dress rehearsal for her. “It’s nice company has three other stores, two in the Eighties and GDP was growing 2 to 2.5 and mellow, but it’s good practice London and one in Devon, England, close percent. Now there is the euro and we are MAY THE FOURTH BE WITH YOU: “George Lucas for tomorrow, for being around a lot to Hirst’s home. The 3,000-square-foot in a phase of deflation, but in our company doesn’t let anyone do anything ‘Star Wars,’ of people,” she said, as a light-saber space in SoHo carries original prints from we don’t have even one temporary except Rodarte,” said Curve’s Nevena duel from the film was projecting on the 35 to 40 artists the company works employee. The reality is much more Borissova. “He just loves those girls.” the wall behind her. “The Met, that with, as well as editions, books and artist- complex than how it is described.” The pixie-sized boutique owner was situation, it can be a little daunting.” designed decorative objects, such as rugs, Bertelli praised Prime Minister flitting around her new Bond Street The night before, Net-a-porter’s Alison wallpaper and vases. Cofounded by Hirst in Matteo Renzi’s “first steps in the right store in Manhattan, where a “Star Wars”- Loehnis rolled out the welcome wagon 2005, Other Criteria has collaborated with direction” in terms of economic policies themed cocktail reception was being for Christopher Kane with a dinner at the artists including Ashley Bickerton, Polly Borland, and redistributing money to the poorer thrown on Sunday night — the unofficial Waverly Inn. “I’m here till Wednesday, if Gary Hume and Sarah Lucas. — JESSICA IREDALE classes. Once again, he said that a priority fan-appreciation day of the film and the I survive till then,” the designer cracked is to “reduce the difference between in his charming Scottish brogue. He was BERTELLI HITS BACK: Prada Group ceo the total costs for a company and the coming up for air after a barrage of air Patrizio Bertelli has a bone to pick with amount that ends up in the pockets of the kisses from a gaggle of his New York- Censis, the Italian center that carries workers,” given the country’s heavy tax based fashion fans — Dree Hemingway, Alexa out socioeconomic studies and research, rate. The entrepreneur urged for “cuts Chung, Vanessa Traina, Caroline Sieber, Carolyn which highlights that the net worth of the on inefficiencies” to prompt a pickup in Murphy and Harley Viera-Newton. “I have the 10 richest Italian individuals together consumer spending. Asked to comment Met, then a few things on Tuesday,” he totals as much as that of 500,000 industrial on the antieuro movements, Bertelli said said. “I’ll be slightly hung over, but it’s a workers in the country — underscoring that “it would be a disaster” without the good excuse.” — TAYLOR HARRIS how the economic crisis has heightened European currency. — LUISA ZARGANI

NEW CRITERIA: Among the inventory at Kirsten Dunst Other Criteria, the retail arm of Damien flanked by Hirst’s art and publishing venture, LEXIE MORELANDLEXIE Laura and Kate opening today at 458 Broome Street Mulleavy. store in New York’s SoHo, are a new

PHOTO BY silk-screen print of Hirst’s interpretation

The day of the summit will commence with a keynote address by Bloomberg, MEMO PAD followed by four main topical discussions, including subjects like OUT ON THE TOWN: Town & Country is education, world hunger, philanthropy finding ways to give back — with its first and technology, and global responsibility. ever philanthropy summit. The 168-year- At lunch, a Q&A session will commence old magazine will hold its inaugural with Fielden and Clinton. event at Hearst Tower on May 28 with The entire summit was put together guests including former New York City in a matter of five months, said Jennifer mayor Michael Bloomberg, Chelsea Clinton, Bruno, the magazine’s publisher. But Hunter Biden, Trudie Styler, Donna Karan and the attendees will be limited. “It’s Geoffrey Canada, among others. for a very ‘curated’ audience,” Bruno “There was always that saying that if emphasized. The 200 invitations were you had money, you were supposed to sent out via Fidelity Charitable, a find a way to share it,” said Jay Fielden, sponsor of the event. Other sponsors the publication’s editor in chief. “It’s include Cadillac, Harry Winston, City our job to fulfill the mission of the of Hope and Loews Regency. — DAVID YI magazine and following interesting people doing interesting philanthropic LOS ANGELES TIMES REBOOT: The things. At the summit we’re highlighting Los Angeles Times has launched these very people.” a redesigned Web site featuring a Fielden said the event was an streamlined layout, fully responsive organic process that brought the design and ad content to suit readers publication’s “T&C 50 Philanthropists” on any device; almost half of the Times’ list to life. traffic comes from mobile users. Site “Half of the guests were already navigation has moved to the left, allowing included in our T&C 50 Philanthropists the screen to appear less cluttered and list,” said Fielden of the publication’s more visuals-heavy, with photo and video December philanthropy issue. “We took galleries embedded within each story. into consideration what the causes Each page also features an endless were, and how they would be more scroll that allows readers to select innovative and make us unlike other content they would like to see. A new summits. It’s intergenerational and Neighborhoods section allows readers to solution-oriented.” select a specific area of the city from a map, COMMAND ATTENTION The summit will kick off on the then get all the news stories geocoded for evening of May 27 with a screening of that area, as well as restaurant reviews TAKE CENTER STAGE. ADVERTISE TO AN ENGAGED AUDIENCE IN the documentary “Generosity of Eye,” at and crime stats. The navigation bar also WWD.COM’S EXTENSIVE RESORT COLLECTIONS COVERAGE. Lincoln Center’s Walter Reade Theater. includes a Visual Browse filter that lets The film chronicles actress Julia Louis- readers peruse top stories via a page filled Dreyfus discovering her father Gérard with images rather than text lines. There ONLINE: JUNE 2014 Louis-Dreyfus’ passions of art, justice and is also an increased social emphasis; each education collide through his act of selling story features a button that allows readers his collection of major works of art. The to share a brief summary via social media, proceeds from all of the sales benefited contact reporters and follow their posts. For more information, contact Pamela Firestone, Associate Publisher, WWD, Canada’s Harlem Children’s Zone. — MARCY MEDINA at 212.630.3935 or pamela_fi [email protected] Replace cotton in your clothing and

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