Target's Challenge Lessons from Nasty
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LESSONS FROM TARGET’S CHALLENGE The embattled retailer faces a tough task in fi nding NASTY GAL a replacement for Gregg Steinhafel, who stepped Sophia Amoruso talks down as chairman and chief executive offi cer. about her new book, PAGE 10 “#GirlBoss.” PAGE 7 WWDTUESDAY, MAY 6, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY WhiteThe dress code for men at The Costume Institute gala at TheHot Metropolitan Museum of Art Monday night stipulated “white tie and decorations,” but Rihanna upped the ante — and the sexiness — with some white of her own in the form of her Stella McCartney gown. For more on the event, which marked the opening of the “Charles James: Beyond Fashion” exhibition, see pages 4 and 5. PHOTO BY EVAN FALK 2 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 6, 2014 WWD.COM John Lewis Marks 150th Anniversary THE BRIEFING BOX To mark the anniversary, the store has IN TODAY’S WWD By LORELEI MARFIL launched a business incubator known as JLab, which aims to identify and develop LONDON — John Lewis is marking technology innovations that will shape 150 years in retail with a clutch of the shopping experience of the future. Joe Zee with Laura and Kate Mulleavy at a cocktail party on Sunday forward-looking projects — and a dash of The festivities officially began Saturday at Curve on Bond Street. For more, see page 11 and WWD.com. nostalgia. The British retailer, founded as with an interactive, 8,202-square-foot exhibi- a draper’s shop in 1864 by an orphan called tion at the Oxford Circus flagship that high- John Lewis, may not be nearly as glamorous lights the retailer’s history. Also on display are as Selfridges, Harrods or Liberty — but it re- specially commissioned items from Alessi, mains the ever-reliable, go-to department Barbour, Jo Malone, Hackett, Le Creuset, store for the British middle class. Levi’s, L.K. Bennett and Alice Temperley. “It It is beloved of the Duchess of gives a real insight to what shopping over our Cambridge, a regular at Peter Jones, the 150 years has looked and felt like, and an op- branch of John Lewis in Sloane Square: portunity for people to see a little bit more She buys her nude tights there; did her behind the John Lewis story,” said Simon pre-wedding makeup shopping at the Fowler, the store’s managing director. MORELAND store’s Bobbi Brown counter, and was For the exhibition, John Lewis tapped spotted hunting for maternity clothes students at the Royal College of Art to LEXIE last year. The store’s tearjerker create what they consider to be the gar- BY Christmas TV ads are eagerly awaited, ments of the future, and the store is also PHOTO and their debut is covered in detail by launching Orla Kiely’s men’s wear. Her the British press. An exclusive Ted Baker debut, 19-piece collection takes its inspi- Of late, the department store has dress for John Lewis. ration from “The Talented Mr. Ripley” On Monday morning, First Lady Michelle Obama cut also been a digital leader, with a slick and has a Fifties Mediterranean feel. the ribbon at the unveiling of the Anna Wintour Costume click-and-collect service that helped it notch 3.3 bil- John Lewis’ historian and archivist Judy Faraday Center at The Metropolitan Museum of Art. PAGE 6 lion pounds, or $5.1 billion, in revenue for the 2013-14 said that as far back as the Thirties, and particularly fiscal year. The John Lewis group, or partnership as in the Fifties, the retailer would regularly bring over Sophia Amoruso, founder and chief executive officer it’s known because all employees share in the profits, exclusive designs from Paris, by Lanvin and other of Los Angeles-based Nasty Gal, traveled to New York to generated revenues of more than 9 billion pounds, or couture houses. “There was a degree of very high- promote her new book, “#GirlBoss.” PAGE 7 $14.04 billion, including takings from its upmarket class trade as well as the more ordinary and more Waitrose supermarket chain. regular John Lewis merchandise,” she said. Otis College of Art and Design’s 32nd Annual Scholarship Benefit and Fashion Show on Saturday featured runway creations from 37 fashion design seniors. PAGE 7 Tiffany Opens on Champs-Élysées Junk Food Clothing unveiled its first store, evoking its playful and nostalgic spirit, on Abbot Kinney Boulevard in store or sales projections, but said it represented Los Angeles’ Venice neighborhood. PAGE 8 By JOELLE DIDERICH a “significant” investment. “Of course we have strong ambitions and the Billabong has tapped American fashion veteran Jeff PARIS — Tiffany & Co. is bringing fresh sparkle to Champs-Élysées must be and will be one of our key Streader as global chief operating officer. PAGE 8 the Champs-Élysées. stores,” he said. “Europe still has important growth The jeweler has opened a flagship at number 62, potential for us, also in terms of openings.” Thierry Mugler’s got a new Angel face: model Georgia marking its most important overseas opening this The store unfurls as a series of spacious areas May Jagger, who officially becomes the fragrance’s face year and joining Cartier as one of the most eminent featuring floors made of Carrara marble or French in July. PAGE 8 jewelers on the famed thoroughfare. oak, and wall panels carved from a single Canadian The corner building, located on the sunny side walnut tree. As RSI Apparels Ltd. workers gathered for payments from of the street, spans 10,765 square feet over three The story of the brand is told through an inter- their factory in Bangladesh, there was a scramble to check and floors showcasing Tiffany’s high jewelry, fine jewel- active screen near the entrance and framed pic- countercheck identities before the factory shuttered. PAGE 9 r y, celebration rings and fashion jewelry, alongside tures dotted throughout the space, which highlight accessories including sunglasses. Tiffany & Co.’s long-standing ties to Paris, where it Marc Jacheet, managing director for France and first opened a store in 1868. Gregg Steinhafel stepped down Monday from the top job at Benelux at Tiffany & Co., said the project was five Design details aimed at accentuating the luminos- Target Corp., sending shares down 3.5 percent on the New York PAGE 10 years in the making. The building, formerly occupied ity of the space include a chandelier and wall lamps Stock Exchange to close at $59.87. in the shape of magnolias de- signed by New York-based artist Gavin Haig has been named chief executive officer of A view of the Tiffany & Co. flagship on the Champs-Élysées. Michele Oka Doner, and guard- Belstaff, and will take up the role on July 21. PAGE 11 rails incorporating a stylized leaf motif in three metallic shades. Town & Country will hold its inaugural philanthropy White gold leaf is a recurring summit at Hearst Tower on May 28. PAGE 11 feature, namely in a wall paint- ing by British artist Hugo Dalton ON WWD.COM of two interweaving ribbons that symbolize commitment. The store carries products EYE: Curve threw a “Star Wars”-themed cocktail party ranging from an Eiffel Tower Sunday night — the unofficial fan-appreciation day of the CO. & charm priced at 170 euros, or film — to toast Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy on $235 at current exchange, to an their fall collection. For more, see WWD.com. TIFFANY 11.2-carat diamond ring that OF retails for 1.9 million euros, or $2.6 million. There are three private sa- FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA COURTESY lons and a library on the top floor @ WWD.com/social that will shortly play host to the PHOTO famed Tiffany Yellow Diamond, TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. by fast-food chain Quick, was completely gutted and re- which will be on loan to the Paris store for a limited WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. built over the course of a year in a spirit that melds the period to fete its official inauguration on June 10. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. house’s New York roots with its exceptional location. Jacheet noted this was especially appropriate, as the VOLUME 207, NO. 91. TUESDAY, MAY 6, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and “The story of this store is New York Art Deco stone was originally cut in Paris in the 19th century. two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine meets Parisian chic,” said Jacheet, standing be- Tiffany & Co. will also unveil a series of ex- Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, tween the store’s three-ton stainless steel door and clusive high jewelry pieces to mark the occasion. Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, a staircase curving around a 50-foot chandelier that Jacheet was sanguine about the prospect of show- NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.