Prep. fragrance, Eaude with hislatest sticks to hisroots Tommy Hilfi ger SCENT NEW TOMMY’S Over 2012 Show Dates Milan vs. New York CALENDAR CLASH he said. earlier, running July,”shows in the even see some to like would ers design- Italian several anything, “If Paris. and London between in want topostponeitsshowstoolateintoSeptemberorbe“squeezed” We havetoredefine thecalendaralltogether.” next year,” September Boselli said. “What are the reasons behind this arrogant step? in later dates York show New the set single- handedly has CFDA the why understand don’t we and years, three wasonlyfortheshortterm. ond Thursdayrule sec- the claimed Boselli week. following the off kick will shows the Day,Labor after days three start shows years, three next the for but September.YorkNew the means that — year this like — Sometimes and February in Thursday second the on season collections the off kick to agreed — Paris and Milan York,London, New — capitals Council ofFashion DesignersofAmerica. York’sNew by Italians the upon foisted was believes he calendar a at out lashing Fashion, of Chamber Italian the of head Boselli, Mario with side, Milanese the in thorn a become that’s date a — 13 and Londonarediggingintheirheels. WANTSMILAN TOSHAKEUP WWD Vuitton. battle withLVMH MoëtHennessyLouis victory inFrench courtinitsongoing building uptothekeyholidayseason. increase inarow—andmoreareahead 1 percentinAugust,thefourthmonthly the Britishcapital. watch, alongwiththingstodowhilein up ontherunwaysandhereareafewto FASHION: Get Ready forLondon Inflation IsBack aRound Hermès Wins NEWS: FINANCIAL: While itwouldnotimpacttheFebruary shows,Boselliexplained fi not and does “united it stands as chamber,added, rm,” The he next the on decide and down sit should we years, three “After fashion four the of organizations fashion governing the 2008, In The spring2013showsareslatedtokickoffinNewYork onSept. FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER16, 2011 PAGE 12 HermèsInternationalwonakey London’sdesignersarenext By Apparelpricesleapedover LUISA ZARGANI

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PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO Ralph Lauren paid a visit to the decade with everything from cloches fromcloches paidavisit tothedecadewith everything Ralph Lauren COLLECTIONS WOUND DOWN. FOR MORE, COLLECTIONS WOUNDDOWN. FORMORE, Something Something to Gatsby-esque suits, but it was the gorgeous eveningwear and to Gatsby-esque suits,butit wasthegorgeous eveningwearand knockout accessories thatgavethecollection itsrazzle-dazzle. PROENZA SCHOULER, CALVINPROENZA SCHOULER, KLEIN THE STANDOUTS THE NEWYORK AS COLLECTIONS AND L’WREN SCOTT WEREAMONG Here, oneexample: a floral lamégown withsilverplumage. NEW YORK Twenties SEE PAGES 6TO 10 SPRING

2012 2 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2011 WWD.COM Hermès Wins Key Ruling in Battle With Arnault siders an unwelcome suitor. By Joelle DiDeRich lVMh revealed in July it had increased its stake in hermès to 21.4 percent in the first half from the 20.2 PaRis — hermès has won a big victory in its battle percent it declared last December. with Bernard arnault. hermès chief executive officer Patrick Thomas, a French court ruling Thursday gave hermès speaking in shanghai where he was celebrating the international a major boost in its fight to block first anniversary of the group’s chinese luxury label what appears to be a creeping takeover attempt by shang Xia, reiterated his wish to see lVMh reduce its arnault’s lVMh Moët hennessy louis Vuitton, saying shareholding. Thomas made the comments before the that hermès can group family-owned shares into a publication of the Paris court ruling. nonlisted holding company by year-end. “The outcome is that hermès will become very in- The court of appeal rejected an appeal by mi- dependent, and one day there will be a solution that nority shareholders, who were seeking to overturn a we will find with them. We are not at war. it’s not a January decision by France’s stock market authority financial fight, it’s a cultural one,” he said. “i’m not The homepage of the new site. aMF exempting hermès from rules that would have saying that theirs is bad and ours is good, i’m just say- required it to launch an offer for outstanding shares ing it’s different, so we don’t want to live with them.” as part of the operation. The Dumas, Puech and Guerrand families col- The family members who filed the request to pool lectively own more than 70 percent of the shares in Updated Moncler Site their shares, which include hermès artistic director hermès international, a limited partnership structure Pierre-alexis Dumas, greeted the court decision. that guarantees they keep control of management. “The creation of this company, which will become The holding company will group 50.2 percent of Goes Live on the Web effective in the coming weeks, will lastingly reinforce the company’s capital and will have priority purchas- MilaN — Moncler’s new online boutique is a further the independence of the hermès group, the pursuit of ing rights on the remaining shares held by the family step forward in the brand’s retail push, fitting in with the its strategy of creativity and artisanal excellence and members participating in the initiative — some 12.6 strategies mapped out by new owner, Paris-based invest- the respect of its values,” they said in a statement. percent of capital. ment firm eurazeo. officials at lVMh could not be reached for com- “The majority will remain within the family, which With innovative graphics, the italian outerwear ment. colette Neuville, president of the French is a very strong signal of its attachment to the compa- brand’s corporate site and its virtual store, optimized association for Minority shareholders, or aDaM, said ny and the fact that it absolutely does not want to sell, for iPad, are now under the single moncler.com ad- she was disappointed by the court’s decision. whether in the short, medium or long term,” Diaz said. dress, operated by Yo o x Group. in addition to the signa- “From a legal standpoint, this sets an extremely he added that roughly 10 percent of capital was ture Moncler collection, the site includes the Moncler dangerous precedent and completely threatens the held by family members who are not joining the hold- Grenoble line; Moncler s, by sacai designer chitose abe; legal security of minority shareholders in family- ing group. They include Nicolas Puech, the brother and Moncler V, by Visvim designer hiroki Nakamura, owned groups in future,” she said. Neuville added of Bertrand Puech, the executive chairman of emile which can all be browsed in the “news” section. that she has two months to decide on the next step, hermès sarl, which represents the family shareholders. The virtual boutique is available in five languages — which could include a further appeal. Trading in hermès shares was suspended Thursday italian, english, French, spanish and German — and in olivier Diaz, a lawyer for hermès, said any such move in expectation of the ruling, and was scheduled to re- 27 countries. Yo o x manages online stores for designers would not block the creation of the holding company. sume today. shares in hermès closed up 2.5 percent and brands ranging from Giorgio armani and Roberto Though lVMh chairman and chief executive of- Wednesday at 268.30 euros, or $367.24 at current ex- cavalli to Marni and Bally. ficer arnault has said he is not seeking full control change rates, representing a 71 percent leap since the Remo Ruffini, Moncler’s president and creative di- of the maker of Birkin handbags and silk scarves, start of the year. — With contributions from rector, said the launch was “a crucial point within our hermès has vowed to protect itself from what it con- casey hall, shanghai global strategy. our retail network is also being expanded through the Web. Further initiatives that have already been planned will respond even better to the require- ments and the demands of a world which, on one hand, Ungaro, Giles Deacon Decide to Part Ways is increasingly globalized and which, on the other hand, selection of groovy vintage jewelry from its archives, demands exclusive proposals in retail outlets.” By Miles socha designed by the late artist oskar Gustin for the house The company is also expanding its brick-and-mor- in the sixties and seventies. tar units. since July, Moncler has opened boutiques in PaRis — emanuel Ungaro sas and Giles Deacon said aronsson said the brand would strive to be both Tokyo; Rome; italy’s luxury tourist destination Forte Thursday that they have “mutually decided” to end “modern and rooted in the past.” dei Marmi; Beijing; antwerp; Vienna; and copenhagen. their collaboration. london-based Deacon, who is slated to present Planned in the near future are units in Naples, Geneva it is understood the spring-summer 2012 collection, his signature Giles line on Monday during london and five venues in china. to be paraded oct. 3 at salle Wagram, will reflect the Fashion Week, presented two collections for Ungaro, There currently are 64 Moncler stores. work of the in-house team. recently steering the brand in a sexed-up direction. in June, Moncler decided to pull the plug on its pro- “We have a hugely talented design and merchant Reached on Thursday, Deacon said: “i’ve been posed initial public offering in Milan and said it had agreed team in place to mine and further develop this heri- having some serious meetings with potential inves- to sell a 45 percent stake to eurazeo for 418 million euros, tage,” said Jeffry aronsson, the american turnaround tors over recent months about developing the brand or $571.2 million at current exchange rates. The transac- specialist who joined Ungaro as chief executive offi- potential for Giles, especially in fine jewelry and ac- tion valued Moncler at 1.2 billion euros, or $1.6 billion, rep- cer last June. “We are all aligned with and dedicated cessories. Those talks are progressing well, and they resenting a multiple of 12 times earnings before interest, to our mission to prepare Mr. Ungaro’s legacy to be are in advanced stages.” taxes, depreciation and amortization, or eBiTDa, last year. perpetuated.” in recent years, Ungaro has experimented with Ruffini retained a 32 percent stake, while private eq- aronsson, who has been ceo at Donna Karan a range of rejuvenation formulas, including a short- uity firm The carlyle Group owns 17.8 percent. international, Marc Jacobs international and oscar de lived attempt to jump-start the brand by installing tab- Prior to the eurazeo deal, carlyle and Ruffini held 48 la Renta, has yet to elaborate on his strategy for the loid sensation lindsay lohan as artistic adviser. percent and 38 percent, respectively. French house, founded in 1965 and synonymous with entrepreneur asim abdullah has controlled the at the time, Virginie Morgon, eurazeo’s director of in- feminine frills, vibrant prints and the color fuchsia. Ungaro brand since 2005, when he bought it from vestments, said the equity fund was attracted to the fact however, he told WWD, “We are all here to serve salvatore Ferragamo. since that time, its has seen an that Moncler has yet to develop its retail channel, with the brand in a modern way. i make new discoveries array of designers come and go: Vincent Darré, Peter its stores pulling in less than a quarter of total revenues. every day about the talent within these walls.” Dundas, esteban cortazar and estrella archs, who The plan is to increase the retail share to 50 percent in Providing a glimpse of its future direction, during had been hired to work beside lohan. the midterm. last year, the Moncler line registered sales Fashion’s Night out on sept. 8, Ungaro presented a — With contributions from samantha conti of 278 million euros, or $367 million. — luisa Zargani

toDay on WWD.CoM To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is SeCtorS in thiS iSSue [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. ■ EYE: See more pictures from the V magazine COPYRIGHT ©2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. fASHION 1,2,6-10,19 BEAUTY 12,14,16 party, David Copperfield’s birthday party and VOLUME 202, NO. 58. FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2011. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except LUXURY 2 EYE 17,18 Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two They Are Wearing: NYFW, as well as more from additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, fINANCIAL 4 MEDIA 17,20 the cocktail party and viewing of Elizabeth which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY DENIM 4 LONDON PREVIEW 20 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Taylor’s couture collection at the home of Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Marty and Barbara Zweig at WWD.com/eye. Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax ■ NEW YORK fASHION WEEK: See the Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O .Box 503, Daily Quote latest collections, as well as backstage and RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR front-row pictures, at WWD.com/runway. DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA ■ BUSINESS: See more financial news at 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as WWD.com/business-news. printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have I don’t think there will no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or ■ ONLINE THIS WEEKEND: Story of the Week up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four be a lot of pushback from weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR Nicole Trunfio at the DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the V magazine party. request to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, please contact Scoop ReprintSource at 800-767-3263 or consumers because the via e-mail at [email protected]. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at ichner

price increases are being e P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND done subtly at retail. Steve TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY — Andrew FitzpAtrick, HinsdAle AssociAtes. pAGe 4 REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER

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w16a002b;15.indd 1 9/15/11 7:06 PM 09152011190703 © 2011 Estée Lauder Inc. © 2011

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Imagine having nothing to hide. New . Even Skintone Illuminator The fi rst fast-acting Serum from Estée Lauder Research to dramatically reduce the look of acne marks, discolorations and dark spots. Instantly, skin looks fresh and radiant. In a clinical test, 62% of women showed a signifi cant improvement in skintone—in just 2 weeks. Proven gentle and effective for all ethnicities. Oil-free formula. Go to esteelauder.com to learn more. 4 WWD friday, september 16, 2011 WWD.COM Apparel Price Rise continues Pepe Readies for U.S. Return By KRIsTI eLLIs The U.s. and Canadian rights to By ARNOLD J. KARR Pepe have been held since 2000 by Jean WAsHINGTON — Inflation in apparel prices is hitting the Design, headed by Ziad Jebara. Jebara boiling point. PePe JeANs London is preparing for is the brother of Assad Jebara, presi- A surprising 1.1 percent jump in retail apparel prices in a second British Invasion of the U.s. dent and chief executive officer of Alpha August is serving as the harbinger of even higher inflation to The London-based jeans com- Garment, which markets Zana-Di Jeans. come through the crucial holiday season as increases in cot- pany has bought back the rights to Financial terms of the transaction ton prices make their way through the pipeline. The August its name and trademarks in the U.s. weren’t disclosed. Pepe had no comment figure marks the third consecutive month retail apparel and Canada, and is planning to re- on the strategy for its North American prices rose more than 1 percent on a year-over-year basis. launch the brand in those initiative other than to say that details Looking at the 12-month figure, the August number was even markets during the fall would be disclosed in “coming months” worse: prices climbed 4.2 percent in August versus August and winter 2012 seasons. and that it was in the process of search- 2010, according to the U.s. Labor Department’s Consumer Pepe’s move to take ing for a ceo to head U.s. operations. Price Index released Thursday. the brand in-house for In addition to its core jeans line, Nor are things expected to get that much better soon. While North America follows Pepe markets 73, a premium denim col- cotton prices have dropped to about $1.06 a pound after spiking a period in which it’s ex- exclusive lection, and the Andy Warhol by Pepe to more than $2 a pound in March, experts have predicted there perienced a resurgence Jeans collection, launched in 2007. It could be another bump in cotton to $1.25 to $1.45 a pound due in europe and begun to acquired the Hackett brand in 2006. to the continuing wildfires and drought in Texas, which could expand its operations in An investor in Pepe since 2005, the impact current crop projections, as well as weakening consumer Asia and Latin America. The spanish private equity group Torreal demand. Reports from Pakistan this week said heavy rains have brand is sold in over 7,000 whole- sA holds a 31 percent stake in the com- caused substantial damage to cotton crops all over the country, sale doors spanning 30 countries pany while its management, led by Carlos leading to a shortage and a 15 percent hike in local cotton prices. and operates about 300 stores of its A look from Pepe Jeans. Ortega, owns 30 percent. L Capital, the “Apparel inflation has been consistently high for the past own. However, North American activity has been lim- private equity arm of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis four months due to previous increases in cotton prices, ap- ited to a handful of stores in Mexico and a limited Vuitton, and Arta Capital invested in the company in preciation of China’s currency, and probably cost pressures wholesale clientele that includes Dr. Jays. While the 2010 and own 12 percent and 16 percent of its equity, in Asian apparel factories,” said Chris G. Christopher Jr., se- in-house line generally has sold at premium price respectively. L Capital took a 60 percent stake in direct nior principal economist for IHs Global Insight. points, much of the U.s. product is sold at $25 to $30. sales fashion firm Captain Tortue Group last month. The retail apparel price gain was the largest in the month of August since a 1.2 percent increase in retail apparel pric- es in 1998, according to sarah Hutchinson, an economist at the Labor Department. “Traditionally, the apparel index shows larger increases Esprit Exits N.A. in Major Revamp in september [than August] due to the introduction of fall- esprit is also shuttering unprofitable stores. winter merchandise,” she said. “We were a little surprised By eLLeN sHeNG The company said it is shutting down 80 such retail by this high increase this month. This has been the fourth stores — 65 in europe and 15 in Asia — incurring a month in a row of higher-than-normal apparel price index HONG KONG — esprit unveiled Thursday a drastic loss of 1.7 billion Hong Kong dollars, or $218 million, increases that have been reported.” restructuring plan that includes pulling out of the as a result. The closures include all 10 directly man- Women’s retail apparel prices, which rose 1.9 percent in North American market and a few other european aged retail stores in spain, Denmark and sweden August compared with July, and girls’ apparel prices, which countries as the company posted a 98 percent plunge which posted 256 million Hong Kong dollars, or $32.9 spiked 3 percent in August, were the main drivers behind in full-year net profit. million, in retail sales in the fiscal year 2011. the inflation in the apparel index, Hutchinson said. On an esprit said it has made a “strategic decision” to Van der Vis also unveiled an 18 billion Hong Kong annual basis, women’s retail prices were up 4.2 percent and divest operations in North America, exit from re- dollar, or $2.3 billion, “transformation” plan to “give girls’ retail prices were 9 percent higher than August 2010. tail operations in spain, Denmark and sweden, and the brand back its shine and recover its profitability.” Andrew Fitzpatrick, director of investments at Hinsdale close down certain additional nonprofitable stores esprit’s multibillion transformation plan in- Associates, said retailers are looking at markdowns and elsewhere to focus on better performing markets. cludes a focus on core markets such as China, “slowly bumping up prices,” which he expects to continue The decision will affect 93 directly managed retail Germany and Benelux, opening around 200 new into the holidays. stores in North America. stores, and refurbishing stores across its entire net- Fitzpatrick said he doesn’t see real inflation overall, not- Ronald Van der Vis, group chief executive officer work. Van der Vis also outlined plans to improve the ing that apparel price increases are coming from a low base of esprit, also said the company is “exploring all op- product offering by using better fabrics, detailing and from a period of deflation for the past 20 years. tions” to divest the brand’s North American holdings. and workmanship, and some restructuring of the “I do see that these prices are picking up slowly but sure- This is the third consecutive year of decline in design and sourcing departments. ly…so that even if they do keep increasing there probably annual profit for esprit, which has been struggling In monetary terms, the plan includes spending won’t be as much of a backlash as might be expected,” he said. with weak consumer sentiment in europe as well as 2.7 billion Hong Kong dollars, or $346 million, on Fitzpatrick does see prices “bouncing in the upward di- higher material and labor costs. The company issued retail store expansion, another 3 billion Hong Kong rection through the holidays,” but he believes retailers have a profit warning earlier this month, but Thursday’s dollars, or $384 million, in retail store refurbish- some room to pass them onto consumers. results were still well below expectations. ment, as well as 11.5 billion Hong Kong dollars, or “With rising raw materials and transportation costs, they are “The brand has gradually lost its soul over the past $1.47 billion, in cumulative additional operating pretty much forced to execute some price increases and I think few years. The heritage of the brand has been neglect- expenditure over the next four years. About 30 per- that will be the right way to go for retailers,” Fitzpatrick said. ed and the company lost its customer focus,” Van der cent of all spending will be dedicated to China. “I don’t think there will be a lot of push back from consumers Vis said in a prepared statement at a news conference. Because of the increased spending, the company because the price increases are being done subtly at retail.” esprit posted net profit of 79 million Hong Kong dol- said it expects to post an operating margin of 1 to 2 The overall CPI rose 0.4 percent in August after jumping lars, or $10.1 million, for the year ended in June, down percent, which analysts say would be close to a zero 0.5 percent in July and were 3.8 percent higher than a year from 4.2 billion Hong Kong dollars, or $543 million, the net profit during the transformation period. esprit also earlier. The core index, which excludes the volatile food and year before. Revenue came in at 33.7 billion Hong Kong said it expects to post a 3 to 5 percent decline in sales energy sectors, increased 0.2 percent and was up 2 percent dollars, or $4.3 billion, about flat with the year before. in the next fiscal year, as well as a 2.1 billion Hong from a year earlier. speaking at a presentation to analysts and Kong dollar, or $269.3 million, loss as a result of divest- Christopher said higher prices are “increasingly becom- media, Van der Vis said the company has engaged ments. esprit shares fell nearly 10 percent Thursday. ing a problem for strained household budgets,” adding that, a private bank to explore all options for its North After the “transformation” period, the company ex- “Wage growth and job prospects have been lackluster in American holdings, which have shown a combined pects to post operating profit margin of about 15 percent. recent months and many Americans are feeling the pain of loss of 1.6 billion Hong Kong dollars, or $205 mil- Aaron Fischer, analyst at CLsA in Hong Kong, higher prices.” lion, over the last four years. That includes a sale, said he thinks the transformation plan “makes — With contributions from licensing, or closure. The ceo said he would prefer a sense” and is “the right plan” but still carries a lot Arthur friedmAn, neW York partnership and would not sell the trademark. of risk.

of worldwide marketing and TV and studio licensing for WBCP. ‘Gossip Girl’ the collection On the Way The line will expand into handbags and serena van der Woodsen and Blair Waldorf. accessories for spring, but the length of the By MARCy MeDINA “This is Romeo & Juliet’s first enter- partnership has yet to be determined. “We’re tainment venture, and ‘Gossip Girl’ was a still working out the line plan for the fu- LOs ANGeLes — “Gossip Girl” is about to natural choice for a partner, as the show ture, but we have a long-term relationship get a lot busier. is synonymous with fashion,” said David planned that will see the line expand into Los Angeles-based contemporary label shamouelian, chief executive officer of other product categories,” said Zarakas. Romeo & Juliet Couture has partnered Romeo & Juliet Couture. The Romeo & Juliet collection repre- with Warner Bros. Consumer Products and The studio’s consumer products divi- sents the first time the show is officially Warner Bros. Television Group, which pro- sion has partnered before with proper- branded as a clothing label on a large scale. duces the CW show, to produce a collection ties ranging from “The Wizard of Oz” to “We have done a handful of pop-up, that will premiere at Coterie on sunday and “Catwoman,” but this is its first young short-term apparel projects in the past, but sell at Kitson, Neiman Marcus and saks adult television collaboration. Gossip Girl by Romeo & Juliet Couture is Fifth Avenue for fall, just in time for the se- “‘Gossip Girl’ as the inspiration for a the first to create a contemporary and ac- Scott . a ries’ season five premiere on sept. 26. fashion line makes for the perfect design cessible line of apparel that gives us a plat- The collection, priced from $80 to $200 muse because there’s an endless supply form to bring that signature fashion inspi- A sequin retail, includes embellished tops, bottoms, of inspiration. It wasn’t a decision about ration to the public in a more significant Darnell minidress with novelty sweaters, outerwear and draped chif- whether or not to pursue this collection, it way,” said sonia Borris, senior vice presi- dolman sleeves. fon dresses with touches of leather, pleats was about finding the right partner,” said dent, marketing and operations at Warner

Photo by and prints, inspired by characters including Maryellen Zarakas, senior vice president Bros. Worldwide Television Marketing.

w16a004a.indd 1 9/15/11 7:57 PM 09152011195822 Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. YOUTUBE.COM/LIVERUNWAY Lips: Eye Studio® Color Explosion™ Eyeshadow in Blue Blowout, Eye Studio® Color Plush™ Silk Eyeshadow in Sapphire Siren, Shine Sensational™ Lipgloss in Minty Sheer. © 2011 Maybelline LLC. 6 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2011

COLLECTIONS YORK 2012 NEW THE END SPRING (ALMOST) With the exception of one hurricane-delayed show, the New York collections finished off with high polish, a bit of irony and a new play on the slipdress.

Ralph Lauren: “Never worry about the facts. Just project an image to the public.” So said that great style sage Diana Vreeland. One of the many wonderful things about fashion is that designers need not hoist the albatross of accuracy, but are free to manipulate any theme, thought or inspiration as suits their creative purposes. Flappers may have been the bad girls of their day, but you wouldn’t know that from Ralph Lauren’s demure take on Twenties’ style, a mood foreshadowed by Wednesday’s fabulous accessories presentation, as clearly old T.J. Eckleburg’s eyes glanced toward a cruel end for a guy named Gatsby. It made for a lovely show, and if one would have liked the romance tempered with a tinge of irony, such isn’t Lauren’s way. Still, there was an element of surprise. His set telegraphed high- polish, highbrow glam: crystal sconces flanking a pristine white doorway; floor covered in huge, diagonally set white glass tiles, as if awaiting Fred and Ginger at their spiffiest. Instead, out came Valentina in faded floral skirt and “vintaged” — read: shredded — cardigan, looking as though she’d broken out prettily threadbare Jazz Age relics at the height of the Depression. She proved something of an aberration and, happily, Lauren didn’t dwell on the wrecked sweater notion, crossing over to tony languid separates in mash-ups of blues, greens, pinks and corals, all worn under insouciant cloches. Though these day looks charmed, in this lineup, evening (and the accessories) stole the show. One wondered if Lauren was inspired by the wedding gowns he made this summer for daughter Dylan and daughter-in-law Lauren. He also may have recalled his glorious all-white collection of 10 years ago, which he designed before, but showed after, 9/11, its gentility somehow so right for the moment. Either way or neither, the mostly white and silver gowns — Jean Harlow satins, floral metallics, crystal encrustations — dazzled.

Proenza Schouler: When you walk into a fashion show — not just any show, but that of New York’s much-adored, cool designing duo — to find the runway carpeted with a brown rec room rug, it can only mean one thing: irony. To some degree that played into Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez’s spring collection for Proenza Schouler. Their inspirations included Fifties car interiors; Googie architecture, and the work of Morris Lapidus, the man behind Miami’s Deco crown jewel, the Fontainebleau hotel. “ Yo u know, all that questionable-taste architecture,” said Hernandez during a preview, leading one to believe they had a so-tacky-it’s-chic trick up their sleeves. That turned out to be a gross underestimation — thank god. Even with a look at a smattering of key pieces — spongy, snug cropped sweaters and a cobalt A-line skirt in papery eel skin that formed one-half of one of the lineup’s best looks — which indicated the collection was to be a serious, sophisticated affair, the show in full came as a wonderful surprise. McCollough ▲ Ralph and Hernandez worked their throwback references with originality, precision and Lauren expert craftsmanship. They didn’t shy away from the so-called bad-taste elements, like tiger-print car interiors and the orange, green and gold palette that has been considered an anathema since it fell out of fashion in the late Seventies. Rather, it was all masterfully handled on slim, retro-modern shapes that had sex appeal and grace. The gut of the collection was an intersection of pinup and sultry secretary. Bustier tops were paired with mean pencil skirts in a mash-up of neon and tropical prints. Ye t there was a crafty undercurrent throughout. The main shoe was a platform clog, hand-painted like wood veneer, with a peep-toe and square stub heel. And raffia was woven into color-blocked knits and remarkable dresses that had cutout maillot tops and wide-weave cage skirts. For the finale, the designers embroidered vaguely Hawaiian florals on tulle dresses with open backs and narrow skirts. It might have been the first time a banana-leaf print was seductive.

Calvin Klein: The slipdress is no small moment in Calvin Klein’s minimalist lore. Back in the Nineties, he catapulted it into the fashion stratosphere with various permutations, including the skimpy, sexy kind that Alicia Silverstone famously trotted out for her disapproving father in 1995’s “Clueless.” Francisco Costa’s spring collection for the house was predicated on a more ethereal version of the lingerie based on a body-skimming, below-the-knee cut. It was a positively gorgeous exercise in building a collection of distinctive pieces around a single concept. Costa introduced his slipdress in a peachy nude that brought to mind household underpinnings of the Forties. Retro in color only, the dresses were done with layered bralette effects, darts, sheer insets and winding seams that provided subtle decoration while boosting the look’s demure sensuality. It was great to see Costa engage with something so delicate when he often fixates on structure, volume and architectural construction, here gracefully adapted to a gentler form. Sturdier tailoring was interspersed throughout with variations on the classic, satin-lapeled tuxedo jacket, usually worn with matching culottes. Still there was a cohesive softness to the clothes, which came in shades of pale yellow, hazy lilac and gunmetal that blended beautifully with the blush tones. By comparison, the interlude of black styles was slightly jarring. But in a season when designers have been patting themselves on the back for shunning black, Ralph Lauren it was almost a relief to see it again. WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2011 7 WWD.COM

Calvin Klein Calvin Klein Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler

FOR MORE REVIEWS, SEE WWD.com/

runway. GEORGE CHINSEE AND THOMAS IANNACCONE JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 8 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2011 FOR MORE REVIEWS, SEE WWD.com/ runway. L’Wren Scott Elie Tahari Isaac Mizrahi

COLLECTIONS YORK 2012

NEWSPRING

L’Wren Scott: With her ever-evolving than usual and Scott mixed them with silk à la Loretta Young were singular Scaling back makes perfect sense. designing skills, L’Wren Scott has great ease — lots of metallic brocades sensations. Given Scott’s very hip, ever- As Mizrahi pointed out, the line is become much more than Mick Jagger’s and rich embroidery, including the red expanding fan base, she can afford to do tightly edited — just 18 dresses — and girlfriend. While she did use a song from cashmere cardigan worn with white it her way. expensive. So he prefers to show it the famous rocker’s first album with his cropped pants and the chartreuse directly to his customers, women in the new band SuperHeavy, “One Day One version over a striped silk shirt and long Isaac Mizrahi: This season the runway market for something fancy. Inspired by Night,” as a jumping-off point for her skinny jersey skirt. A L’Wren Scott show “felt a little beside the point for my “floral camouflage,” he shot against a collection, these clothes were all her. is not necessarily a cohesive collection, business,” said Isaac Mizrahi. He backdrop emblazoned with an exploded Scott tied it together, explaining, “I but rather a wonderfully random wanted to keep it small so he showed peony print that also appeared on two want women to be able to go straight selection of influential decades, colors, his collection to WWD while shooting dresses. Aside from the short, straight from day to night in hyper-glamour.” silhouettes and fabrics that the designer his spring look book Thursday morning. cocktail styles and a single wispy Undoubtedly, that statement included loves. For instance, two of her best Last season got too big, he said, because leopard-print floral “cover up,” the women like Daphne Guinness, Ellen looks, the red flared coatdress, trimmed “we had to have all these people and look was quite grand. Gowns were cut Barkin and Rachel Feinstein, who were in handmade white lace, and the long, so many more models.” Not to mention in the exaggerated lines of a sketch in attendance. Fabrics had more texture belted shirtdress in rose iridescent dyed poodles and cakes. artist with slim bodices, mermaid skirts WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2011 9 WWD.COM

delicate harem pants, a fine python print for casual trousers and sheer pleating details. Gold embroidery s Gant by t Michael on linen jackets and accessories Bastian like tasseled belts enhanced the rich feel of the clothes, while slightly faded hues added a casual, elegant element to the collection.

naeem khan: It wasn’t so much a collection as a whole bunch of really beautiful beaded dresses. Naeem Khan has years of experience in eveningwear and the loyal customers, including First Lady Michelle Obama, to prove it, but there wasn’t a lick of continuity here. Looking for a glamorous caftan in an on- trend garden floral? He’s got it. A minimalist beaded column in ruby red? Yes siree. Golden goddess gown, retro Forties frock and pink ribboned princess poof? Check, check and check. When combined with the ear-splitting soundtrack led by Marilyn Manson’s “Sweet Dreams,” confusion was perhaps the only thing left to feel. Yes, they were gorgeous, but a point of view other than “I can do anything” would have been welcome.

Bill Blass: Jeffrey Monteiro sought to repeat the polish and refinement of his fall effort for Bill Blass, this time with a nautical theme. All the expected trappings showed up: a red, white and blue palette, anchor motifs, gold buttons and stripes. While the collection was not uncharted territory, there were still some nice pieces in the mostly commercial lineup, such as the group of little sailor shorts paired with matching sweaters and navy or white jackets that looked young and sporty, as did some long skirts with loose, cropped tops. A bit of sex appeal came through on dresses in revealing fabrics, high slits or long racer backs.

naeem Threeasfour Gant by Michael Bastian: It was a khan “sunshiny day” at Gant as Michael Bastian did an about face from last season’s heavy Swedish winter wares. “Everything I know about Hawaii, having never been there myself, is filtered through the Brady Bunch’s vacation there,” a grinning Bastian said. Ergo loads of good basics followed in fun summer colors like orange and blue and playful patterns including turtles, hippos, plaids and stripes all layered with abandon. For women there were rugby dresses with exaggerated lace-up necklines and retro- feeling embroidered knits, while for men seersucker blazers were paired with tank tops and cargo shorts. Surely Greg and Marcia A would approve. itr m Threeasfour: The trio of Adi Gil, obert

r Gabi Asfour and Angela Donhauser nd

A have always enjoyed pushing

boundaries be it traditional design one or, in this case, inspiration. Set ACC

nn in St. Patrick’s Old Cathedral iA

Bill s and dubbed InSHALLOm, their Blass A enchanting Middle Eastern- hom

t inspired collection explored the idea of unity and friendship as it and flamboyant embellishments, like the relates to multiculturalism. There Chinsee, e

gigantic wreaths of bows that adorned the G were cutaway coats with seams waist of a hot-pink gown. sliced open to reveal a different fabric underneath and flowing elie Tahari: Ancient Egypt — the land cotton dresses, many with a Jewish of gods and goddesses, Pharaohs and star print, which were layered Geor Centeno, A

one very glamorous Cleopatra. This, y under rope harnesses. The often A along with early 20th-century-hourglass l controversial Muslim Keffiyeh tA silhouettes, served as the guiding scarves were another common inspirations for Elie Tahari. Combined, denominator, draped around the two could have made for a strange necks, used as pattern or for

concoction, but Tahari pulled the looks John Aquino, tassels bordering tops. Contentious

together in one of his most polished by or not, these were beautiful, efforts to date. The sophisticated lineup wearable clothes that just also

included gold mesh dresses and skirts, Photos happen to have something to say.

w16a008(9)a.indd 2 9/15/11 9:03 PM 09152011210411 10 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2011 WWD.COM Milan Contests Sept. Sandro, Maje to Open New York Units country, “We have offices in SoHo and a logistics center Fashion Week Dates By SHARON EDELSON in New Jersey,” he said. “We take a lot risks in terms of {Continued from page one} retail and capital investment. We control what we do. We that shows later in September would fall “too late NEW YORK — Two French brands are setting their sights immediately understand what works, so we’re efficient for production.” squarely on Manhattan. and reactive.” With 450 stores in Europe, Biousse expects CFDA chief executive officer Steven Kolb and Sandro and Maje, siblings in the Groupe SMCP corpo- to have 50 stores in the U.S. in 18 months.” Caroline Rush, his counterpart at the British rate family, are tapping into the growing contemporary A 1,200-square-foot Maje store will bow on Oct. 12 on Fashion Council, were adamant that the second market. SMCP, which last year sold a 51 percent stake to Spring Street in SoHo. Sandro is looking for a space in Thursday rule was a long-term agreement. “I hold LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s private equity arm SoHo. Separate Sandro women’s and men’s stores of 1,500 confident it was not a three-year agreement and I L Capital, also has U.S. ambitions for Claudie Pierlot, an- square feet will open on Oct. 26 on Bleecker Street, where would not be doing my job for American designers other brand in the stable. Maje will open a store on if we had negotiated short term,” Kolb said. “We are becoming a the same day. Biousse said “That’s what we agreed to and that’s what we’re large and strong group,” he’s scouring the Upper moving forward with, and I know nothing else oth- said Frederic Biousse, East Side, Upper West erwise,” he added. “If we hadn’t changed to that chief executive officer of Side, Union Square and second Thursday from two years ago, fashion week SMCP Group in France and NoLIta for Sandro and in New York would have been during Labor Day.” ceo of SMCP USA. “We’ll Maje. “Our goal is to have Didier Grumbach, president of the Chambre open stores for Claudie at least five to eight stores Syndicale de la Haute Couture, was not present Pierlot in early 2013.” for each of the brands by at the meeting in 2008 and unaware of any such The completely au- February,” he said. “We agreement. “What’s sure is that it is too late to tonomous Sandro and don’t necessarily want the change anything for 2012, but I’m sure that any Maje collections are de- brands to be next to each problem with dates can be sorted out for 2013,” signed by two sisters who other, but when that does said Grumbach. “What’s tricky for us right now is are said to be friendly happen, sales increase by that the Paris calendar has become too full.” competitors. “They don’t over 20 percent. Customers Any issues pertaining to Paris’ women’s ready- spend that much time buy both Sandro and Maje. to-wear schedules will be taken up at the Chambre together,” Biousse said. It’s like cross fertilization.” Syndicale’s general assembly in late October, Evelyne Chétrite heads Both brands on Sept. 8 Sandro has its sights set on SoHo for a store. Grumbach said. up Sandro, the Left Bank- unveiled in-store shops at Boselli, for his part, is insisting the date issue needs inspired collection that’s popular with celebrities such as Bloomingdale’s on 59th Street and in SoHo, and shop-in- to be addressed. “All this upsets the equilibrium and in Alexa Chung. Judith Milgrom designs the more fashion- shops bowed on Wednesday at Bloomingdale’s in Short light of this development, the chamber is now rethink- oriented, ethnic-infused Maje. In the U.S., Maje has col- Hills, N.J. Sandro men’s in-store shops will open on 59th ing the status quo and evaluating the time frame that laborated with Vanessa Traina, while in France, it’s worn Street and in SoHo in mid-November. would work best for its members,” he said. “We will not by Marion Cotillard and Vanessa Paradis. Sandro and Maje’s Web sites, designed by Pod1, which have a decision ready before the end of October.” With L Capital’s deep pockets, Sandro and Maje are has created e-commerce sites for Derek Lam, Nanette —WithcontributionsFrom looking beyond New York. In September 2012, the brands Lepore, L.K. Bennett and Harvey Nichols, are expected KatyaForeman will hit the West Coast, said Biousse. To serve the entire to launch on Nov. 15.

ent world entirely. “I actually arrived there straight from Nairobi, Kenya,” she said. “I was actually doing Fashion scoops a documentary for PBS with Nicholas Kristof. So for two Altagamma Study Analyzes weeks I had been in the slums of Nairobi.…It was such CLUB CALVIN: The scene backstage at Calvin Klein’s an honor to be able to walk around and interview peo- Luxe Spending on the Web spring show on Thursday afternoon was a whirlwind: ple with him….It was extraordinary but a very differ- not least because the undertaking was running 30 to ent world than…” Wilde paused to survey the backlit PARIS — Brands need to start thinking multichannel. 45 minutes behind schedule. benches and fashion editors filing in. “All of this,” she That was among the key messages delivered by “This is my first runway show,” Chloë Moretz con- continued with a smile. “It balances me out. Fashion, Fondazione Altagamma on Thursday during the pre- fided amidst the very carefully controlled chaos. “Is art, beauty, culture is an important element of life. I sentation of the results of a yearly study by the foun- it always this crazy? I’m wearing Calvin Klein, and think that the time I spend in Haiti — I have an orga- dation, titled “Digital Luxury Experience, Altagamma I feel very Calvin Klein with the loose waves in my nization in Haiti; I go down there quite often — going Observatory,” analyzing the online presence and per- hair and everything. I have worn him before, for there and now going to Kenya and doing this documen- formance of 187 international luxury brands and their shoots and things. But this is crazy! It’s so hectic: tary, it keeps me balanced. I’m very grateful that I get customers’ attitudes. The presentation took place simul- Look, there’s a naked lady! Changing!” to do both. They’re certainly extremes, so hopefully I taneously at the Four Seasons Hotel in Milan and Paris. Moretz gawked at a nearby Hanne Gaby Odiele, who exist somewhere in the middle of the spectrum.” Altagamma is a trade body of 74 Italian luxury brands noted the attention and was unruffled. such as Gucci, Bulgari, Fendi and Valentino. Uma Thurman wore a royal blue long-sleeve dress, DIANA’S FANS: The third floor of Barneys New York pro- Covering eight product macro-categories, including also the work of Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa, and was vided respite for those weary from fashion week early on fashion, jewelry and watches, yachts and cars, the find- similarly nonplussed. “I’ve worn Calvin Klein all my Wednesday evening at a party hosted byMark Lee, China ings revealed that online and offline channels are com- life,” Thurman said. “I think he designed my first Oscar Machado, Penelope Tree, Diane von Furstenberg and Calvin Klein plementary bedfellows of an increasingly integrated na- gown…or some big event. I still have it somewhere. in honor of Lisa Immordino Vreeland’s new Diana Vreeland ture. Online entities such as brand’s Web sites and social I don’t do all the shows in New tome, “The Eye Has to Travel.” media forums are exerting a major influence on offline York, I really only go to my friends’ Lara Stone at Calvin Klein. Revelers swilled Champagne sales in the luxury market, which remain by far the bulk things. Diane von Furstenberg, Marc and surveyed inspirational of brands’ businesses. Jacobs, you know. This is my first Vreeland quotes (“You don’t give According to the study, online sales of luxury goods and only show this week. I’m just people what they want, you give in 2010 represented just 2.6 percent of the luxury mar- taking it easy and enjoying it.” them what they never dreamt ket’s total revenues, which represented 172 billion euros, Ashley Greene appeared amidst they wanted,” etc.) painted on or $227.26 billion at average exchange for the period. a swirl of flashbulbs and was black panels and old Vogue covers However online sales of luxury goods are expected to ichner

immediately submerged in tele- e framed that hung nearby. Grace climb at a yearly rate of 20 percent over the next few years. vised interviews. “I love Calvin Mirabella and Immordino Vreeland Of 1,500 consumers surveyed online in June, based

Klein!” Greene grinned, as if on Steve were both on hand, and signed in the key Western markets and China, 67 percent of cue. Other front-row attendees copies and greeting fashion European shoppers said they first research product on- were a little more relaxed. industry fans like Monique Péan, line before making bricks-and-mortar store purchases, “I’ve known Francisco for Photo by Amanda Hearst and Zani Gugelmann. followed by 63 percent of Chinese and 50 percent of quite some time,” Naomi Watts offered. “You know, the Machado and Tree chatted near a framed image of American consumers. Blogs and social media play an in- night I met Liev [Schreiber] at the Met ball…” Twiggy, who’s eye was emblazoned with gerber-daisy face creasingly influential role in the process, especially in A passerby familiar with the tale interjected that paint. Both of the style inspirations paused when asked emerging markets such as China, according to the study. this might be the most romantic story ever. about the era of Vreeland, and their days as models. Conversely, in 2010, 70 percent of online sales of luxury “I know, very romantic,” Watts continued. “The night Tree, wearing a long silk coat with a swirling pais- goods in Europe, followed by 59 percent in China and the I met Liev I was wearing a dress designed by Francisco. ley design, laughed at the question: “Lots of people U.S., were preceded by visits by consumers to bricks-and- So they keep inviting me, because I was a success I are nostalgic for a time they didn’t experience — I mortar stores to check out the product. guess.…But, obviously, Francisco is very special to me.” don’t miss it too much, but sometimes, sure, I do wish Social media platforms generate 150,000 messages Out front, in the bleached-white and brightly lit I still looked like that. It was fun.” related to luxury brands each week, with Burberry the space, Lara Stone was waiting for the show to begin. Klein was also at the party as a host, though he most cited brand for apparel and Gucci for accessories. Visible lately on Calvin Klein television advertisements hadn’t yet read the book. The number of members signed up to luxury brands’ and billboards across the country, Stone was sitting this “I’ve admired it, I only received it this morning,” Facebook sites is expected to more than double next year. season out. The model was wearing a tightly knit orange Klein explained, “I’ve been assured it’s a really in- In terms of brand awareness online, for the apparel frock and held hands with husband David Walliams. teresting read which is rare for a book like this. It’s and accessories categories, respectively, Louis Vuitton “It’s funny to be on this side of it,” Stone said, not just the layout, it’s really supposed to be very and Hermès came tops, with Ermenegildo Zegna and meaning the runway. “I’m excited to watch it for once.” well written, well researched. And there’s going to Salvatore Ferragamo scoring the highest points in terms be a documentary, it was just picked up in Toronto. of customer loyalty. Tiffany & Co. and Rolex took the top BALANCING ACT: Shortly before taking her seat along- It has something like 40 hours of unaired footage spots for brand awareness for jewelry and watches, with side Dylan Lauren and Graydon and Anna Carter at the from interviews with Diana. It’s interesting: That Swarovski and Chopard landing first place in terms of cus- Ralph Lauren show on Thursday morning, Olivia Wilde magazine was going through tough times then, it tomer loyalty for the categories. explained that it would be her first front row this wasn’t vital by any means. It was an interesting time, According to the study, China is expected to out- week. The actress had come straight from the Toronto an iconic time.” grow the U.S. in online sales for luxury goods by 2016. Film Festival, but before that had been in a differ- {Continued on page 19}  —KatyaForeman

w16a010b;16.indd 1 9/15/11 8:59 PM 09152011210025 8:30 PM RUNWAYthe the 8:31 PM WORLD

instant gratifi cation Proenza Schouler Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com for fashion obsessives 12 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2011 WWD.COM

FOR MORE HILFIGER IMAGES, SEE Nioxin’s New beauty WWD.com/ beauty-industry-news. Hair Thickener Hilfiger Makes Scents Out of Prep By ANDREA NAGEL NIOXIN IS LAUNCHING a new leave-in thickening treatment, Diamax, one that women’s juice has top notes of Procter & Gamble Co. executives said By JULIE NAUGHTON Bosc pear, pink pepper and green yields immediate results in increasing apple; a heart of white rose, vio- hair diameter. TOMMY HILFIGER is playing to his let leaf and hawthorn, and a dry- Reuben Carranza, chief executive core audience with his newest fra- down of sandalwood, patchouli officer of P&G Salon Professional, said grance masterbrand, Eau de Prep. and musk. The men’s juice has top Diamax uses a technology called HTX, The masterbrand, which is notes of ruby red grapefruit and a combination of four ingredients that exclusive to Macy’s in the U.S., clary sage, a heart of geranium, while not unique to beauty when used will be launched in October and tonic accord, lavender and juni- together, give the perception of thick- was created with the designers per, and a drydown of amber, oak- er, fuller hair. The kicker is that since longtime fragrance licensee, the moss and suede. Diamax is designed to work on the very Aramis and Designer Fragrances Eau de Prep Tommy Girl is an first use, P&G sees it as a door opener division of the Estée Lauder Cos. eau de toilette available in two for stylists to begin conversations about Inc. According to the designer, it sizes: 1.7 oz. for $55 and 3.4 oz. for thinning hair with salon clients, a sub- was inspired by his spring-sum- The Eau de Prep fragrances. $70. Eau de Prep Tommy, also an ject that is often taboo. mer 2011 Prep World collection, eau de toilette, is being offered in “One of the things is you can see the which celebrates all of the iterations of the preppy lifestyle two sizes, 1.7 oz. for $50 and 3.4 oz. for $65. effects after first usage, which is an im- worldwide. The new fragrances are called Eau de Prep Ottavia Piergiovanni, executive director of global marketing portant indicator in the salon. We want Tommy and Eau de Prep Tommy Girl, in reference to his for the Aramis and Designer Fragrances division of the Estée stylists to do first application in the salon original fragrances. Lauder Cos., noted that the preppy-with-a-twist vibe was car- so it can become a part of one’s daily hair “Preppy in New York is interpreted differently than prep- ried through to the bottles, which include crests on the caps routine, along with a py in London or Milan or Los Angeles,” said the designer, that are repeated on the outer boxes of the fragrances. three-part Nioxin who showcased the collection in pop-up shops around the Carol Russo, senior vice president and general man- system. It fits into globe from April through August of this year. “And that same ager, North America, for Aramis and Designer Fragrances, the routine and concept can be applied to fragrance. With any project, you noted that the brand plans an extensive media campaign to she feels like she want to evolve. Eau de Prep Tommy Girl expresses a different promote the fragrances. The centerpiece is a major print is using a beauty product,” facet of the classic American Tommy Girl, while Eau de Prep campaign shot by Craig McDean, featuring models who ap- said Carranza. Tommy expresses a different facet of the Tommy customer.” pear in Hilfiger apparel advertising. It will begin running in According to Dr. While the traditional Tommy Girl and Tommy customers November fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines, including Frauke Neuser, who might be preppy — with the guys wearing, say, pleated khaki Glamour, InStyle, GQ and Teen Vogue. As well, vials on card, helped formulate the trousers and the women oxford shirtdresses — the Eau de blow-ins and other sampling vehicles are expected to gener- product, HTX consists Prep mind-set is that there are no rules, said Hilfiger. “The ate “several million” scented impressions, said Russo. of four key ingredients: Prep World and Eau de Prep customer mixes preppy with While executives declined comment, industry sources caffeine, which in hair vintage and gives it a wink and a nod. They aren’t trying too estimated that the Hilfiger scent business generates world- care has been found to hard to be cool and chic — they just express what they feel.” wide retail sales of about $250 million. Sources estimated increase hair growth Age targets for Eau de Prep will likely mirror those of the that the Eau de Prep masterbrand could do about $40 mil- and the production of core fragrance business — 17- to 45-year-old men and women lion at retail globally, with about 25 percent of that figure hair in the hair follicle; — although Hilfiger said he thinks the two new scents will — about $10 million — expected to be generated in the U.S. panthenol, for mois- likely appeal to those consumers who “fall in the gap between Advertising and promotional spending could top $7 million, ture retention; nia- young and the middle of that range.” said industry sources. cinimide, to improve Trudi Loren, vice president of corporate fragrance devel- The masterbrand will roll out in the U.S. and Europe in moisture barrier func- opment worldwide for the Estée Lauder Cos., worked with October, with Latin America and Asia getting the scents in tion, and dimethicone, Givaudan to concoct both the women’s and men’s scents. The spring 2012. a silicone that forms a barrier on hair. “We screened The rock band Two Door Cinema Club. some ingredient com- binations and were surprised it happened Rabanne Rocks Out to give the efficacy of the overall complex,” said Neuser. Hair thinning afflicts By JOELLE DIDERICH three out of four people, said P&G, and while the Nioxin PARIS — Paco Rabanne is inviting fans of its Black XS fra- typical person loses be- Diamax grances to experience the life of a rock star with the launch tween 50 and 100 strands of its new Web site, be-a-rockstar.com, part of a major push of hair a day, if hair fiber into digital by parent company Puig. shrinks or loses its diameter as little as The Barcelona-based firm has struck a partnership with 5 percent, a person could appear to lose Universal Music Group to develop the site, which features 5,000 strands of hair over time. video content produced by Universal’s Paris-based produc- The Nioxin brand was overhauled in tion arm Off T V. Dubbed The Black XS Off Shows, the short “What is really important is the DNA of each particular May and was tightened from eight to six films about nine bands — starting with Kaiser Chiefs, Two line, so whatever tool we use for one line will never work for items. Conditioning formulas were im- Door Cinema Club and Cold War Kids — will also air on the another,” he added. proved upon by tapping into P&G technol- brand’s YouTube channel and off.tv. Digital currently accounts for 8 to 9 percent of Puig’s total ogy. Nioxin is now available in approxi- The site, which was scheduled to launch today, will feature media spend, and Albesa aims to increase this to 15 percent. mately 15,000 salons in the U.S. and in 2,500 an immersive game that allows users to see the world from “We are really happy with the results,” he added. “The salons in Canada. the perspective of a musician, and provides opportunities to first key PIs that we are getting are really much better than Diamax can be used on dry or wet hair, win concert tickets, backstage passes, free downloads and the average results in digital, so it’s really exciting,” he said. and is designed to be worked into roots and Black XS and Black XS Pour Elle fragrances. The be-a-rockstar.com site marks the first time Puig has scalp. The product, which will be carried “It’s a big step forward in digital,” said José Manuel joined forces with an outside partner on digital content. in salons for home use, will be available Albesa, chief brand officer of Puig, noting that Black XS had Mathieu Baumgartner, in charge of digital media at nationwide in January. It will retail for $50. previously focused on event sponsorship and animations. Universal, said linkups with brands, media, broadcasters and Carranza said Diamax received ac- Puig has hired a team of eight to develop digital strategies content platforms would become increasingly important as creditation from external independent for key lines within its portfolio of brands. In addition to Paco the music industry settles into a new landscape, where album testing branch, North American Hair Rabanne’s Black XS, those fragrances will include Nina by sales make up just a fraction of its revenues. Research Society, a group comprised of Nina Ricci; Candy by Prada; Valentina by Valentino, and 212 “It’s a platform for exposure for our artists that we can’t dermatologists, scientists and industry by Carolina Herrera. afford to neglect, and when a brand wants to do it in a way experts related to hair biology, in rela- “We established a road map for change and we classified that is consistent with our codes and values, it can only be tion to its claim that the product thick- five types of ways to reach people: brand awareness, brand beneficial for them and for us,” he said. ens each hair strand. A seal has been put experience, brand engagement, brand loyalty and brand ser- “A few years ago, when an artist joined forces with a on each package of Diamax. vice,” Albesa said. Focusing on 16 key countries worldwide, brand, it was frowned upon by the profession. Nowadays, A grass roots digital platform will tar- the division is developing specific content for lines in their provided it is well done and that there are real mutual ad- get and make available $1 million worth of most relevant markets. Its first initiative, unveiled earlier this vantages, an artist joining forces with a brand is a win-win Diamax to consumers with thinning issues year, was the launch of a Facebook page for Nina, which has situation,” Baumgartner added. in December. The online sweepstakes will since garnered more than 415,000 “likes.” In recent years, countless music stars have not only have salon clients provide information on “Sometimes we focus more on microsites or games con- launched their own fragrances, but also appeared in ads for which salon they frequent in return for a tents or podcasts, sometimes it’s more about video or blog major brands. Justin Timberlake is the face of Givenchy’s Play free sample of Diamax. P&G can then use communities or social networks, or e-mail marketing, or sam- fragrance, and The Strokes front man Julian Casablancas will the data to target possible customers, as well pling,” said Albesa. star in ads for Azzaro’s new men’s scent, Decibel. as regional information on thinning hair. TOMMY SHOOTS. YOU S H O P. GET THIS LOOK AT STYLE.COM/SHOPSTREET

instant gratifi cation for fashion obsessives

powered by 14 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2011 beauty LOOKING BACK

Swept-back hair — buns, French twists, braids and tails — let designers’ collections take center stage for spring. Embellished hair presented as the most breathtaking, from the black spikes jetting out of buns at Jason Wu to the loose, textured braids accented by suede rope at Michael Kors. Odile Gilbert perhaps explained the need for pulled-back hair best: “I want to see collarbones and necks and the sexiness of these areas. It is what women strive for every day.”

MICHAEL KORS HAIR: Orlando Pita MAKEUP: Dick Page for Shiseido.

PROENZA SCHOULER HAIR: Paul Hanlon for Frédéric Fekkai. MAKEUP: Diane Kendal for MAC JASON WU Cosmetics. HAIR: Odile Gilbert for Kérastase. MAKEUP: Diane Kendal for MAC Cosmetics.

BADGLEY MISCHKA HAIR: Peter Gray for Morroccanoil. MAKEUP: Tom Pecheux for MAC Cosmetics.

DONNA KARAN LIUDA HARA CAROLINA HERRERA NARCISO RODRIGUEZ HAIR: Eugene HAIR: Orlando Pita for HAIR: Eugene Souleiman for Wella Moroccanoil. Souleiman for Wella Professionals. Professionals.

MAKEUP: Diane MAKEUP: Charlotte ERICKSEN AND KYLE Kendal for MAC MAKEUP: Dick Page Tilbury for MAC Cosmetics. for Shiseido. Cosmetics. PHOTOS BY REDEFINING PAGE VIEWS OCTOBER 2011 16 WWD friday, september 16, 2011 WWD.COM Lipsticks designed by Kate beauty Moss. Moss Marks Era in Lipstick it’s for me a very emotional moment.” lip gloss and nail enamel. By NiNa JoNes Beetz noted that Rimmel’s relation- Meanwhile, Beetz said Rimmel is ship with Moss had lasted through thick central to Coty’s plan to grow its color LoNDoN — Rimmel is marking its and thin. “after two or three years, there cosmetics business to become on a par 10-year anniversary with Kate Moss was this big scandal about Kate [when the with its fragrance business. “it’s a very by launching a collection created by model was pictured purportedly taking important part,” said Beetz. “Rimmel the model. The Coty-owned brand un- cocaine], everybody dropped her, [but] we is our flagship brand for all key pillars veiled the Kate Moss Lasting Finish stuck to our guns....We wanted to be loyal of the color cosmetic world — lipstick, Lipstick collection with much fanfare to her and she was loyal to us,” said Beetz. mascara, eye shadow, foundation. it’s a in London Thursday, with a press con- During the press conference, Moss $1 billion brand, and it’s one of the most ference starring Moss. it was followed appeared onstage wearing tailored gray important color cosmetics brands in the by a party at Battersea Power station in pants with a gray jersey top, teamed with world.” and it’s through “product innova- south London, where Moss arrived via a The Kate Moss ad. the red Number 001 shade from her lip- tion” that Coty plans to grow the brand, Rimmel-branded helicopter. stick collection. Describing the London along with expanding into emerging mar- “if you had to choose the most perfect role had been instrumental in Rimmel’s look that Rimmel says she embodies, kets. semerari said Rimmel has recently icon for London, it would be Kate Moss,” expansion outside the U.K. “Beyond the Moss said it’s “an eclectic look really — i taken back its distribution in China, and said steve Mormoris, senior vice presi- face, [Moss’ role] gave an infrastructure think anything goes in London. it’s very said there is “room for growth” for the dent of global marketing at Coty Beauty. to the brand, a cohesive framework that different from Paris and New York. You brand in asia, Russia and Latin america. Renato semerari, president of Coty all the development, R&D and market- can be who you want to be.” To wit, Rimmel’s ambassadors include Beauty, added: “and 10 years after, she’s ing had been able to work toward,” said The collection launched last week at Puerto Rican model alejandra Ramos still an icon of London.” Beetz. Mormoris added: “i think without Boots in the U.K., will launch throughout Muñoz, Londoner Georgia May Jagger and Mormoris noted that throughout Moss’ her, the brand would not have doubled in the country sept. 29 and will follow into americans solange Knowles and Zooey 10-year stint as the face of Rimmel — size in 10 years.” the U.s. in January. The print ad for the Deschanel. “The key reason why we want- which also coincides with his and Coty indeed, Moss’ appointment as a face collection, which will launch in March ed to bring variety is to show how eclec- inc.’s chief executive officer Bernd of the brand was Beetz and Mormoris’ in the U.s., features Moss wearing a vi- tic the brand can be, and how well it can Beetz’s 10 years at Coty — she’d often had first major decision together when they brant red shade. an accompanying TV adapt to different skin tones and different creative input into the brand’s advertis- both joined Coty in 2001. “We thought spot, which will be shown in the U.K. personalities,” said semerari. ing campaigns. “she’s incredibly involved about how we could express [Rimmel’s beginning late this month, shows Moss in the U.s., Rimmel is the eighth- in the creativity in Rimmel, working with London heritage] best in a campaign, in posing at a fictional photo shoot, before largest color cosmetics company, and the photographers Craig McDean and a face, and it doesn’t take a genius to get she leaves the set to depart from the roof semerari said the company’s “dream” is David sims, helping them with make- to Kate Moss,” said Beetz with a laugh. of the studio on a helicopter. The lip- to take the brand into the top five. “Will up looks,” said Mormoris. “she’s a real “Ten years ago, Rimmel was a different stick collection comes in 15 shades, and that be done in one year? Certainly not,” London girl, and we made her kind of a company, and a different brand....it was will retail in the U.s. for $5.17 apiece. said semerari. “But we put a lot of pres- creative contributor to the brand.” a big decision for us: We were not a suc- Mormoris said the company will likely sure on the local team to make it as fast and Beetz said Moss’ ambassadorial cessful company, we were losing money. introduce more color categories, such as as possible.”

w16a016a.indd 1 9/15/11 7:50 PM 09152011195251 ON THE MOVE: Emilia Wickstead is among the Ones to Watch as London Fashion Week kicks off. WWD STYLE PAGE 20

Party Magician David Copperfield celebrated his recent Fantastic Man spread and birthday with a Wednesday night party at his Park Avenue penthouse, where Roberto Cavalli was among the guests. For more, see page 18.

PHOTO BY KRISTEN SOMODY WHALEN

Kremins involves a domino effect for Fair, Glamour and The New Yorker to be making a significant investment in other publishers in the company, and were credited with having decent profit Laird + Partners, the fashion ad agency MEMO PAD these moves are expected to take place margins for their Web sites. owned by Trey Laird. MDC’s ad agencies Friday or early next week. Next, there was an emphasis on and public relations firms include CONDE CHANGES: Condé Nast has let go Condé Nast spokeswomen did not finding revenue elsewhere, such as Crispin Porter + Bogusky, HL Group and of longtime Brides editor in chief Millie respond to e-mails and phone calls with e-commerce, iPad apps and mobile Kirshenbaum Bond Senecal + Partners. Martini Bratten and replaced her with Marie seeking comment. businesses. Corporate leaders also said Laird began his agency nine years Claire executive editor Anne Fulenwider. In The Brides news follows an all-hands- they want to do more with video and that ago and is best known for his work for another move, Michelle Myers is leaving as on-deck, two-hour Thursday morning the company will hire someone to help Donna Karan, DKNY, Tommy Hilfiger, publisher of Lucky to become the new meeting with all Condé Nast editors and on that front, potentially to develop TV Tory Burch and the Council of Fashion publisher of Brides, sources said. publishers in the executive dining room shows based on Condé Nast’s brands. Designers of America. His agency’s clients These moves are just the start of what on the fourth floor at 4 Times Square. Back to the changes: Fulenwider’s run the gamut from St. John, Rag & Bone is expected to be a series of shake-ups in Sources said that it was the first time all departure is the second masthead and Rimmel to Coty Fragrances, where the coming days at the publisher. WWD publishers and editors sat down together defection from Marie Claire in a week. it’s worked on campaigns for Vera Wang, has learned that Condé Nast plans to fold for such a meeting, and that it was similar Abigail Pesta, longtime editor at large for Beyoncé, Halle Berry and Faith Hill. the Brides Local magazines, which are in style to Condé Nast’s annual publishers the monthly, is heading to Newsweek and Laird’s firm specializes in published in 16 different regions. Brides meeting in Florida. Anna Wintour skipped The Daily Beast, where she’ll serve as advertising, brand strategy and identity, Local magazines and brides.com editor in a 10 a.m. Ralph Lauren show in order to editorial director, women in the world. On media planning and buying, print chief Julie Raimondi resigned this week in stay for the entire meeting, and attended Tuesday, Tina Brown unveiled the launch of production and digital strategy. order to take a job at a start-up, Lover.ly. Lauren’s 11 a.m. show. the Women in the World Foundation, an The New York-based agency employs The question now is what happens to Chief executive officer Chuck Townsend offshoot of her annual three-day summits about 80 people. Laird is believed to outgoing Brides publisher Carolyn Kremins. and president Bob Sauerberg stressed that have drawn Hillary Clinton, Madeleine be seeking to expand internationally, She is popular among executives at the importance of beefing up revenue Albright and Condoleezza Rice, among others. especially in China and Europe; grow its Condé Nast, and it’s expected that she’ll and widening profit margins, according In her new role, Pesta will focus on telling digital division, and pursue categories get a bigger book in her next assignment. to several people at the meeting. The more stories about organizations and outside of fashion. There are several possibilities of where two executives said the top priority for causes involving women and girls. Neither Laird nor Miles Nadal, chief she could wind up, but two sources said publishers and editors should be to A Marie Claire spokeswoman said a executive officer of MDC, could be reached Condé Nast Traveler is her most likely return print magazines’ profit margins successor for Fulenwider would be named for comment Thursday. MDC Partners is destination. One insider also said that GQ to prerecession, 2007 levels. Townsend shortly. — JOHN KOBLIN AND AMY WICKS a publicly traded company, trading on associate publisher Marcy Bloom is a front- emphasized that editors should be more both the NASDAQ and the Toronto Stock runner to succeed Myers as publisher of experimental with their Web sites in TREY LAIRD’S NEW INVESTOR: MDC Partners, Exchange. — LISA LOCKWOOD Lucky. Obviously any move that involves order to increase revenue. Wired, Vanity a Toronto-based holding company, is said {Continued on page 20} 18 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2011

China Chow in Balenciaga. t from nobu, and later a black-and-white cake by Crumbs. attempting to find the rooftop terrace was not for the faint of heart, as the penthouse’s elevator seemed stalled. Doors and hallways of varying lengths abounded. Behind one, apparently, was a baby named Sky, born to Copperfield and his girlfriend, Chloe Gosselin, a little over a year ago. “Oh, the baby’s here,” Gosselin nodded, appearing to keep an eye on her husband in the arcade as he offered tours to guests. “she’s sleeping.” Couldn’t it be a little scary for a child, growing up in an apartment with a massive arcade full of fortune-telling gypsies from the fifties, fake rifles and various other contraptions?

Whalen omody “Oh, I don’t think so,” Gosselin s said with a smile. “she’s David’s daughter, after all.”

Kristen Roberto Cavalli got an extensive by David Copperfield in Tom lesson from Copperfield at the Ford with Roberto Cavalli. arcade games, and momentarily photos mastered one: a spinning wheel covered in watches and a silver painted 360-panoramic views mechanical arm, which snatched them from any of the terraces when a button was pressed. or even the arcade “I’m not interested in fortune telling games, which fill the per se, this magic,” Cavalli laughed. “But Magic Kingdom entire first floor and line I love David. He is fantastic.” both levels of the living the feeling was mutual. later on the One almOst felt a little badly for Copperfield tilted his head at an room — but because the roof, when the cake had been produced David Copperfield on Wednesday evening at angle and handed back a Champagne look shot by Copperfield and “Happy Birthday” had been sung, his birthday-cum-fantastic man launch flute that had been resting atop a wood- at an errant Champagne with guests clogging all of his terraces party in his Park avenue penthouse. framed fortune telling machine to a flute was one of those and tossing cigarette butts anywhere “Has nobody heard of coasters?” partygoer who had been rooting around featured on Vegas’ and forgetting to use coasters, Cavalli Copperfield moaned in fake- in her crocodile clutch. though the billboards and buses. proved a sight for sore eyes for the King exasperation that might have belied scene was unfolding on manhattan’s east Carlos Mota, China of magic. some real frustration. “this is our first side, it was impossible not to think of Chow, Michael Stipe, Michael “as long as Roberto’s here, I’m party here, and I think maybe our last. las Vegas — not necessarily because of Michele, John Currin and Rachel happy,” Copperfield said to his beaming I keep racing after people to pick up the glassed-in rooftop pool with balmy Feinstein were all at the party, swirling friend, as he wrapped the designer in their glasses. I restored all these arcade interior temperature and large, rearing around the mazelike apartment, a hug. machines, painstakingly. for years.” terra-cotta horse statue above it, or the pursued by caterers offering dinner — AlessAndrA CodinhA

Bruce Weber Karlie Kloss and Dylan Lauren at the Boom Boom Room.

eye

Channeling Liz

Rachel Lindsay On WeDnesDay nIGHt Kelly Ripa was admiring the had advised female partygoers to channel their Roy Lohan mannequins set up in the Pierre Hotel penthouse inner taylor. Crystal Renn went all out, donning a home of Marty and Barbara Zweig. “Cleopatra”-inspired wig and eye makeup. “so Barbara sent me an e-mail that said, ‘wait till “I do love a character,” Renn said. “and you see the clothes, they’re divine,’” Ripa explained. ‘Cleopatra?’ I had to do the eye shadow look.…Of On cue, Barbara Zweig walked over to say hello to all of elizabeth taylor’s looks, it’s my favorite.…I her guest. like anything that’s a bit over the top.” “the red dress is going to blow you away,” the across the room, Rose McGowan was upset that hostess said. “there’s a size 4 mannequin and they she had missed the earlier viewing, given that can’t zipper it.” she was staying at the Pierre. oreland

each mannequin in the room wore a look from the “But I figure liz taylor would be proud m personal collection of elizabeth taylor, soon to be of that, being that I don’t believe she was the exie l auctioned at Christie’s. Instyle, which co-hosted the timely sort,” mcGowan said. cocktail party, will feature the late actress’ collection some time after midnight, Lindsay Lohan grew in October. upset with a photographer who had snapped “she’s so much tinier than any of us realized,” Ripa an unauthorized picture of her. standing up in continued of the actress, who died in march at 79. her booth, the actress grabbed the nearest thing Zweig agreed: “But you look at the picture and you on hand, a glass, and flipped it at the picture- by exhibit party

think her boobs are so big…she looks so voluptuous.” taker to get his attention. With Champagne on aylor t Other guests included Rachel Roy, Chris Benz, Dylan the ground and on the snap-happy partygoer’s Lauren, Lorraine Schwartz and Bruce Weber, on whom the shoulder, and her end achieved, lohan wagged ichner; e

dresses had a particular effect. a finger and shook her head in disapproval. and e V

“I just loved her so much as a friend,” the a hundred thumbs took to their twitter feeds. te s photographer said. “It’s wild to see the clothes. It’s the mini commotion felt somewhat quite emotional in a way.…I photographed her a lot, appropriate given the occasion. though glass so I’m imagining her in a lot of these clothes, and it’s flinging may not have been in the taylor weird for me to touch them cause she’s not in them.” repertoire, the onetime child star was no photos by later in the night, a much different set was stranger to offstage drama, and at the very least

celebrating taylor. V magazine threw a black-and-white knew how to act out a fit. ag party m

ball at the Boom Boom Room, where the dress code — MAtthew lynCh V

w16a018a.indd 1 9/15/11 7:54 PM 09152011195537 WWD friday, september 16, 2011 19 WWD.COM hner C i attracted a bevy of well- e for the line’s show wishers. the actress was at the earlier that day, which Fashion scoops Steve show with her pal André Leon had also included Talley (and she was dressed like Beyoncé Knowles and Taylor hoto by

IT’S ONLY ROCK ’N’ ROLL: L’Wren appreciate,” antonioli said. him, too, in an oversize white p Swift. “if someone wants Scott had a surprise up her linen caftanish top). goldberg to come and they show sleeve on thursday with an MICHAEL AT MICHAEL: Michael hesitated to discuss a few up, it’s exciting,” the exclusive sampling of boyfriend Douglas accompanied wife projects that are in the hopper, Rodarte co-designer Mick Jagger’s newest work. Catherine Zeta-Jones to Michael but one she is excited about said. “it makes it more scott’s runway music featured Kors’ runway show last season, centers on the “incredibly, fun and it is fun, but “one Day one night” and so it was a bit of a surprise funny black comedian” moms in the moment you’re “energy” — two never-been- to find him solo in the front mabley, who died in 1975. so focused on your heard tracks from Jagger’s new row on Wednesday morning before the show, Marcus own work it’s actually band, superheavy. those in at lincoln Center. Zeta-Jones Samuelsson was among the something you don’t the audience who liked what had been a little under the admirers who popped over pay attention to — it’s they heard will have to wait a weather, Douglas said, but he to goldberg for a quick hello. very weird — until few days to download the tunes pressed on. “it gives me more obviously it wasn’t another Mary-Kate and everyone wants to talk though. the album won’t be of an opportunity to admire ordinary Wednesday afternoon. Ashley Olsen to you about it after.… released until next week. the clothes and the models,” “normally, if you go to the park it’s an honor that people he laughed before taking his you don’t get this many people would even want to WHITE LIGHT: Alexander Wang’s seat alongside Zoe Saldana and with cameras,” she said. “but scene was an eye-opener. “it’s come to your show, whether brand will amp up milan Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. the this is fun. this is the kind of made me realize, ‘Right, that’s it’s a retailer or someone like Fashion Week and the city’s actor, who is about a year place where people might say, what women look like in the an artist. like Miranda July was White trade show with the removed from treatment for ‘i may not like your politics, real world,’” blair said. there. that’s a huge deal for presentation of a stark white throat cancer, said he’s feeling but i’m happy to see you.’ that Dressed to the nines in a us.” WWD had spoken to July rendition of its ever-famous good and a little stronger every makes me happy.” black sequined J.mendel dress, at the show, who had called Rocco bag. the White pony month. he said he’s in no rush “that’s because you bring blair hasn’t exactly been a the mulleavy sisters, in the Rocco bag, made exclusively to get back to work. “i feel them great pleasure,” offered homebody. she jetted off to film most pleasant sense of the for posh milanese boutique really good, i have an eight- and her seatmate, Deeda Blair. festivals in Venice and toronto word possible, weirdos. “yeah, antonioli and london’s 11-year-old and i’m old enough “sometimes i’m told i give them to walk the red carpet for her yeah,” laura said with a laugh. selfridges, will make its debut to really appreciate how quickly great pain,” goldberg replied. work in “Dark horse.” blair “We’re weirdos together, so it in milan on sept. 23, at the that time goes by before you will also appear with James makes sense.” antonioli concept store. a lose your fatherly influence,” IT TAKES TWO: at J.mendel D’Arcy in “Replicas,” a thriller tribute to Wang’s edgy street he said. Douglas still intends to Wednesday, leverage buyout king about a home invasion. ACRA SCENT DUE?: market style, the sleek tote is crafted return to earlier plans to play Alec Gores invited Mary-Kate and rumors are circulating that with lamb and pony calf hide liberace in Steven Soderbergh’s Ashley Olsen, friends of his family, WEIRDOS TOGETHER: Rodarte Reem Acra is in the final stages and a metal-studded base. upcoming biopic. “besides all to share a row with him and toasted its spring runway show of negotiations for a possible boutique founder Claudio his flamboyance, he was a lovely, Beth Whitson. another hollywood on tuesday night with an after fragrance licensing deal with Antonioli is planning the event lovely guy,” Douglas said. “i’ve type, Selma Blair, was also in the party at Fig. 19, where front- tpR holdings llC. neither with White milano trade never heard anybody spoken house, taking a breather from row notables Rooney Mara, David acra nor tpR representatives show organizers and said this about so warmly…it’ll be nice to her six-week-old son, Arthur. Byrne and Elle and Dakota Fanning could be reached thursday collaboration is part of his play a nice guy for a while.” her boyfriend, Jason Bleick, also swung by, as did sonic youth’s night for comment. acra is company’s ongoing quest for skipped the outing. “i’ve slept Kim Gordon. Laura Mulleavy took perhaps best known for her the world’s best designers. WHOOPING IT UP: try as she one hour in the past five weeks,” a quick break from saying bridal and eveningwear. tpR “Wang is one of the most did to keep a low profile at she said. “he’s wonderful and hello to the packed house of also owns the Freeze 24-7 skin important designers around. he Wednesday’s Chado Ralph i’m totally, totally exhausted.” well-wishers to discuss the care brand and hair care brand is a designer that i personally Rucci show, Whoopi Goldberg being back on the fashion impressive front-row turnout oscar blandi. FIT Museum Spotlights Guinness along the lines of, ‘you should always dress By RosemaRy FeitelbeRg up because you never know who you may happen to meet,’ with Daphne, it’s, ‘you What’s in Daphne’s closet? more should always dress up because you never For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. than you ever would imagine. know what man you may meet,’”s teele said. First ranked in the international best one of the standout pieces on dis- Dressed list in 1994, Daphne guinness is play is a vibrant alexander mcQueen for now getting her due in a new exhibition givenchy handpainted evening dress, the at the museum at Fit. aside from having first piece that guinness bought from the Spaces an iconic sense of style and a serious cou- designer. after the fact, her friend isabella ture collection, guinness blow suggested she meet COMMERCIAL inspired such designers mcQueen, but at the time REAL ESTATE as her friend alexander guinness wasn’t interested MANAGER CONTROLLER Required for mcQueen. the exhibition in meeting designers, steele PHILIP KINGSLEY opens sept. 16 and will run said. by chance, mcQueen NJ Distro Center TRICHOLOGICAL CENTRE, NYC Apparel Company is looking for a seas- We are looking for an enthusiastic & through Jan. 7. spotted her in london oned controller for their NJ Distribu- energetic person with excellent manage- “Daphne really regards in one of his designs and tion Center; Reporting to the CFO at ment skills & a positive approach to Showrooms & Lofts the NY Corp office, the Controller will running a successful business. The cor- fashion as an art. most chased her down the street BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS supervise the accounting office, over- rect candidate will be responsible for: Great ’New’ Office Space Avail so-called fashion icons to introduce himself with, see purchasing of warehouse supplies • Overseeing the complete manage- ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 and assist in the research and preven- ment of our recently refurbished are not really that. if you “‘you bought my coat. tion of chargebacks. The individual Trichological Centre. will work closely with management to • Communicating business strategy & google ‘fashion icon,’ you izzie told me we should identify areas for savings. Will be re- action plans to all staff. get a lot of people who are meet,’” steele said. he and sponsible to budget weekly staffing • Ensuring a positive, productive Daphne needs that ensures maximum efficien- working environment. designer clothehorses or Guinness guinness hit it off and be- cy and productivity. Candidate must • Be responsible for all stock control. celebrities,”said Valerie came friends. mcQueen re- have a minimum of 10 years experience. • Marketing, liaising with PR Compa- shot by Resumes should be sent in confidence ny to promote the PK range of prod- steele who curated the David ally loved to go through her to: [email protected] ucts. show with guinness. “the closet, looking at her clothes • Preparing reports for the Accountants. LaChappelle. • Import & export of products. depth of fashion culture and turning them inside out, • Taking an initiative to bring forward LEGWEAR SALES new ideas that will add value to the she has is extraordinary. often taking them apart. she Excellent opportunity for experienced clinic. she is so interested in the actual making of would tell him, ‘hello, you have to put that legwear sales person. Branded and • Maintaining all Company policies private label. Department, specialty and procedures. things, not that she just sees the designer back together,’ steele said. store and off price relationships a must. Base salary plus commission, The successful candidate must have the as an artist but she is also really focused azzedine alaïa, Karl lagerfeld for existing business. following experience, skills & education: Contact [email protected] • College graduate with at least 7 years on the artistry of all the craftspeople.” Chanel, Rick owens and Christian lacroix experience. Considering guinness wears vertigi- are among some of the other labels on • Proven leadership ability. Salesperson Needed • Excellent customer service & sales nous heels as comfortably as nba players display. the “Daphne guinness” show is for Ladies Dress Comp. Min 3-5 yrs skills. wear sneakers, it is fitting that the show set up in different sections, intersected exp. Specialized in Chain stores will • Computer literate. be highly preferred. Fax resume to: • Excellent time management, organi- opens with her footwear. she routinely with walls of mirrors and scrims a holo- 212-504-2779 zational, problem solving & follow up showed up for meetings about the exhibi- gram and short films, including a few that skills. • Enthusiastic, responsible, honest, tion wearing 10-inch towering shoes. they guinness did herself. her signature look hardworking, flexible & diligent. If in- terested please forward your resume certainly didn’t detract her from leaping of a tight black jacket with a white blouse along with a covering letter and salary into action, jumping on and off the plat- and leggings is well represented in the history to: [email protected]. forms, styling the various outfits with boxes short “Dandyism.” the other areas cor- Whilst we appreciate every applicant’s and boxes of ribbons, jewels and shoes. doned off are “armor,” “Chic,” “evening interest, only those under considera- tion will be contacted. guinness hesitated to loan a sliced Chic,” “exoticism” and “sparkle.” No Recruitment Agencies please. silver metallic gareth pugh dress and guinness’ individualism is a way of hooded coat, but once she did, she went life, according to steele, who said, “she out and bought another one, steele said. dresses up because, in a way, that’s her Clearly a champion of pugh’s work, his art form. With Daphne, she does not just (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] designs are featured throughout the show. dress for special occasions — every day “While Chanel once said something is an event.”

w16a019a;12.indd 2 9/15/11 9:16 PM 09152011211726 20 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2011 WWD.COM Emilia Wickstead Palmer//Harding

FOR LONDON SCENE, SEE

WWD.com/eye Shaun Teatum Jones Samson

LONDON PREVIEW: ONES TO WATCH the designers said they will continue their “search for the effortless raw aes- thetic that we started last season.” The duo’s inspirations include “teenage girls,

Keeping Up With… GIANNONI GIOVANNI ‘Wildwood, N.J.’ [a 1994 documentary], London Fashion Week kicks off today and runs through Tuesday. Alanis Morissette and Nineties editions of i-D and The Face.” PHOTOS BY Here are a few fresh faces on the scene. By Nina Jones Meanwhile, van der Horst, another 2011 Central Saint Martins M.A. gradu- A NEW POLISH Warren Noronha labels, will showcase ate, filled his master’s collection with London’s runways and showrooms dresses that run from tailored num- bold Hawaiian prints worked onto struc- aren’t only about the cutting bers to fluid silk designs. tured tunics, pants and shirts. For spring, edge. In fact, several designers Their spring collection takes its his references run from “Lilly Pulitzer’s are making their names turning inspirations from “the tensions be- resort wardrobe” to the film “Downtown out refined, elegant creations tween the masculine and feminine” 81,” which chronicles New York’s under- with a nod to the trends. and what the designers describe as ground arts and music scene in the early Emilia Wickstead trained at the darker side of “the sentimental Eighties, from which he conjured up what London’s Central Saint Martins perfection of 1950s America.” he describes as “a playful DIY aesthetic.” and is known for her simple and Show times: Fashion East will be held Sept. 18 expertly cut silhouettes in luxuri- Emilia Wickstead: Sept. 16, 12:30 p.m., at noon, at Haunch of Venison, ous fabrics. The designer creates The Connaught Hotel, Carlos Place, W1 6 Burlington Gardens, W1. made-to-order, made-to- measure Teatum Jones: Sept. 16, 5 to 7 p.m., RSA, Maarten van der Horst Marques’Almeida and ready-to-wear designs at her 8 John Adam Street, WC2 SHAUN SAMSON London studio and already counts Saloni: Sept. 20, 11 a.m. to 1 p.m., San Diego native Shaun Samson’s de- Britain’s First Lady Samantha Royal Institute of British Architects, Palmer and Harding have produced a signs riff on what he describes as “mod- Cameron among her clients. 66 Portland Place, W1 film to showcase their designs, directed ern men’s street-wear.” After earning This season, the designer by Malcolm Pate, which will be shown B.A. and M.A. degrees in men’s wear at said she’s inspired by “a by- PALMER//HARDING at London Fashion Week’s cinema space London’s Central Saint Martins, the de- gone era,” and her collec- This label, which aims to bring at the BFC. Time of the showing was not signer is showing this season as part of tion draws on the idea of “directional design” to shirt- confirmed by press time. the MAN show for new men’s designers. Paris and “harmonious Palm Saloni ing, is designed by Texas native While his 2011 M.A. collection was filled Springs summers.” Spring Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding, who LOOK EAST with oversize tunics worked in plaid and also marks the first time Wickstead grew up on the outskirts of London. Add two new names to the Fashion East knits, Samson’s spring collection takes will wholesale the collection. The designers met while studying for showcase for emerging designers this its cues from the designer’s Southern Meanwhile, India-born Saloni Lodha’s their degrees at Central Saint Martins. season: Marques’Almeida is a label Californian childhood. label, Saloni, has become known for chic Palmer earned a bachelor’s degree by Portuguese designers Marta Marques “It was the Nineties and grunge and dresses that pop with inventive prints. For in men’s wear and Harding holds both and Paulo Almeida, while Dutch designer gangster rap was on the rise — I wanted her third season at London Fashion Week, bachelor’s and master’s degrees in wom- Maarten van der Horst will also make his to dress like the older kids in my neigh- the designer has taken “Japonisme” as en’s wear. They’re officially launching debut as part of the Fashion East lineup. borhood, so I’d borrow their clothes her inspiration — expect draped column Palmer//Harding for spring. After meeting at fashion school in which were two sizes too big,” said dresses and painterly prints. Their line of men’s and women’s shirts Portugal, Marques and Almeida each Samson, recalling his childhood garb. And designers Catherine Teatum and Rob is inspired by Thirties couture and the gained master’s degrees in women’s wear “There’s an oversized feel to the [spring] Jones describe their Teatum Jones label as haunting images of German photogra- at Central Saint Martins, and for their collection, but it’s still very tailored.” “a contemporary take on elegance.” The pher Ingar Krauss. The two describe the joint graduate collection earlier this year Samson will show at MAN, Sept. 21 at duo, who in the past have designed for collection as capturing “a feeling of mel- they showed a line of frayed, distressed 10:30 a.m. at the Topman Venue at The the Luella Bartley, John Richmond, and ancholic confidence.” denim dresses and jackets. For spring, Royal Opera House, Drury Lane, WC2.

New York shows and parties. “I’ve seen her out and about.…As far as I’ve heard, she’s not speaking to MEMO PAD me,” said Goreski, before Foxman quickly turned the conversation to other topics. Both Zoe and Goreski are contributors to InStyle, {Continued from page 17} with the latter penning a new column in the magazine, LESS IS MOORE: The European shows will be going on “Brad’s Buzz Board,” that made its debut in September. without L.A. Times chief fashion critic Booth Moore. “Our world is a friendly world and there’s room for all “Budget reasons,” is what they told Moore, who was of us,” said a diplomatic Foxman. interviewed Thursday at the Calvin Klein show. Moore Brad Goreski, As for the shows, Goreski singled out looks from has been attending the shows in London, Paris and InStyle publisher Prabal Gurung, Jason Wu, Peter Som and Tor y Burch as Milan for more than 10 years, and this is the first Connie Anne Phillips DIANA ELIAZOV/BFA among his favorites. Among his many projects, he is season she’s not going. She was caught by surprise, and Ariel Foxman. also working on an autobiography-cum-advice book,

since the L.A. Times has been interested in expanding PHOTO BY tentatively titled “Born to Be Brad.” — DAVID LIPKE its fashion coverage, adding more fashion stories to The Envelope, its publication and Web site devoted to debut in November. “I hope that people will be able BREAKING BREAD: As Lulu Gainsbourg, the youngest entertainment, celebrity and awards. Moore also writes to see [in the show] all the hard work that goes into of Bambou and Serge, settled into dessert with Tom fashion stories for the L.A. Times Magazine and the starting your own business in fashion,” Goreski told Guinness, Waris Ahluwalia and Johan Lindeberg at Edi & the image section, for which she’s the editor. WWD at an InStyle luncheon on Thursday, where he Wolf on Wednesday evening, model Abbey Lee Kershaw, “I don’t know what kind of [European] coverage they and managing editor Ariel Foxman discussed the week’s tamborine in hand, joined her boyfriend’s band for a want, but they’re not going to review the collections trends for a roomful of advertisers and partners. “ Yo u surprise acoustic performance near the front of the with pictures,” she said. Clearly, Moore is upset about get to see the balance between this high-energy, over- restaurant. The occasion? A late dinner to celebrate being sidelined, but is making the best of it. “Certainly the-top, sort of glamorous type of world and then the the launch of Club Monaco x Dazed & Confused. The there are plenty of fashion stories to report in L.A. flip side — what my real life is like and what my family magazine contributed to the creative direction for Club [but] I think it’s important to go to all the cities and see is like. I’ve been with the same boyfriend for 10 years.” Monaco’s fall look book, using their photographer André how everything relates. It’s a bummer.” — LISA LOCKWOOD The show filmed from March to August and follows Saraiva. Curator Aaron Young and The Webster’s Laure Goreski as he builds his own styling agency after Heriard Dubreuil chatted with Nate Lowman, Carlos Quirarte LUNCH WITH BRAD: The airdate for Bravo’s new Brad famously splitting from his former boss, Rachel Zoe, and Mariko Munro about the campaign, which features Goreski reality vehicle, “It’s a Brad, Brad World,” has who has her own reality show on Bravo. The two other dinner guests including Elodie Bouchez, Bambou yet to be revealed, but look for the trailer to make its did not speak once during this latest whirlwind of Gainsbourg and Bloc Party’s Kele Okereke. — AMY WICKS