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Fashioning Gender Fashioning Gender
FASHIONING GENDER FASHIONING GENDER: A CASE STUDY OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY BY ALLYSON STOKES, B.A.(H), M.A. A THESIS SUBMITTED TO THE DEPARTMENT OF SOCIOLOGY AND THE SCHOOL OF GRADUATE STUDIES OF MCMASTER UNIVERSITY IN PARTIAL FULFILMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY c Copyright by Allyson Stokes, August 2013 All Rights Reserved Doctor of Philosophy (2013) McMaster University (Sociology) Hamilton, Ontario, Canada TITLE: Fashioning Gender: A Case Study of the Fashion Industry AUTHOR: Allyson Stokes BA.H., MA SUPERVISOR: Dr. Tina Fetner NUMBER OF PAGES: xii, 169 ii For Johnny. iii Abstract This dissertation uses the case of the fashion industry to explore gender inequality in cre- ative cultural work. Data come from 63 in-depth interviews, media texts, labor market statistics, and observation at Toronto’s fashion week. The three articles comprising this sandwich thesis address: (1) processes through which femininity and feminized labor are devalued; (2) the gendered distribution of symbolic capital among fashion designers; and (3) the gendered organization of the fashion industry and the “ideal creative worker.” In chapter two, I apply devaluation theory to the fashion industry in Canada. This chap- ter makes two contributions to literature on the devaluation of femininity and “women’s work.” First, while devaluation is typically used to explain the gender wage gap, I also address symbolic aspects of devaluation related to respect, prestige, and interpretations of worth. Second, this paper shows that processes of devaluation vary and are heavily shaped by the context in which work is performed. I address five processes of devaluation in fash- ion: (1) trivialization, (2) the privileging of men and masculinity, (3) the production of a smokescreen of glamour, (4) the use of free labor and “free stuff,” and (5) the construction of symbolic boundaries between “work horses” and “show ponies.” In chapter three, I use media analysis to investigate male advantage in the predomi- nantly female field of fashion design. -
London National Park City Week 2018
London National Park City Week 2018 Saturday 21 July – Sunday 29 July www.london.gov.uk/national-park-city-week Share your experiences using #NationalParkCity SATURDAY JULY 21 All day events InspiralLondon DayNight Trail Relay, 12 am – 12am Theme: Arts in Parks Meet at Kings Cross Square - Spindle Sculpture by Henry Moore - Start of InspiralLondon Metropolitan Trail, N1C 4DE (at midnight or join us along the route) Come and experience London as a National Park City day and night at this relay walk of InspiralLondon Metropolitan Trail. Join a team of artists and inspirallers as they walk non-stop for 48 hours to cover the first six parts of this 36- section walk. There are designated points where you can pick up the trail, with walks from one mile to eight miles plus. Visit InspiralLondon to find out more. The Crofton Park Railway Garden Sensory-Learning Themed Garden, 10am- 5:30pm Theme: Look & learn Crofton Park Railway Garden, Marnock Road, SE4 1AZ The railway garden opens its doors to showcase its plans for creating a 'sensory-learning' themed garden. Drop in at any time on the day to explore the garden, the landscaping plans, the various stalls or join one of the workshops. Free event, just turn up. Find out more on Crofton Park Railway Garden Brockley Tree Peaks Trail, 10am - 5:30pm Theme: Day walk & talk Crofton Park Railway Garden, Marnock Road, London, SE4 1AZ Collect your map and discount voucher before heading off to explore the wider Brockley area along a five-mile circular walk. The route will take you through the valley of the River Ravensbourne at Ladywell Fields and to the peaks of Blythe Hill Fields, Hilly Fields, One Tree Hill for the best views across London! You’ll find loads of great places to enjoy food and drink along the way and independent shops to explore (with some offering ten per cent for visitors on the day with your voucher). -
Press Release 15 January 2013 Swarovski Whitechapel Gallery Art
Press Release 15 January 2013 Swarovski Whitechapel Gallery Art Plus Fashion: Giles Deacon , Bella Freud, Marios Schwab and Nadja Swarovski collaborate with the Whitechapel Gallery for annual fundraising gala 14 March 2013, 7pm - late The Whitechapel Gallery announces an exceptional evening of art, fashion and moving-image on Thursday 14 March 2013 for the annual fundraising gala in partnership with Swarovski. Major names from the world of fashion including Giles Deacon , Bella Freud, Marios Schwab and Nadja Swarovski select the most promising fashion postgraduates emerging from London to take centre stage in the first ever live catwalk show in the Gallery. Whitechapel Gallery Director Iwona Blazwick OBE , Nadja Swarovski , Member of Swarovski’s Executive Board, Mollie Dent-Brocklehurst , Art Plus Chair and Justine Picardie , Harper’s Bazaar Editor-in-Chief, lead a committee of renowned figures from the worlds of art, fashion, film and music, inviting guests to join an evening premiering the next generation of designers. Funds raised support the Whitechapel Gallery’s Education programme, which works with thousands of children and diverse community groups every year. For Swarovski Whitechapel Gallery Art Plus Fashion , outstanding postgraduate fashion collections will be paired with work by leading moving-image artists, followed by live music and celebrity DJs. An auction led by Sotheby’s Oliver Barker includes works generously donated by major contemporary artists. Guests will have the opportunity to bid on works by Andrea Büttner , Minerva Cuevas, Corinne Day, Sam Durant, Cornelia Parker, Bridget Riley, Bob and Roberta Smith and Catherine Yass . Swarovski Whitechapel Gallery Art Plus Fashion will feature a stunning catwalk show with creative direction by Sara Blonstein and Chris Ford from Blonstein & Associates . -
Stephen Jones Datasheet
TITLE INFORMATION Tel: +44 (0) 1394 389950 Email: [email protected] Web: https://www.accartbooks.com/uk Stephen Jones And the Accent of Fashion Hanish Bowles ISBN 9781851496525 Publisher ACC Art Books Binding Hardback Territory World Size 300 mm x 240 mm Pages 240 Pages Illustrations 297 color Price £45.00 First monograph on the work of the celebrated milliner Stephen Jones With a preface by John Galliano and texts by authorities such as Hamish Bowles, Andrew Bolton, Suzy Menkes and Anna Piaggi, with new photography by Nick Knight and David Bailey "Picture the moment, in the run-up to a Christian Dior haute couture show. John Galliano is working silently in the Paris studio with his friend and ally, the master milliner Stephen Jones. The designer is looking at the arc of a silhouette, the drape of a skirt and the tilt of a hat: 'I often work through a mirror for most of my decisions and I always see Stephen's reflection,' says Galliano. 'He is reading my every nuance. He is studying my face. I don't need to say anything - he can read my mind'." - From the essay by Suzy Menkes. Stephen Jones is one of the world's most talented and distinguished milliners. This exquisitely illustrated monograph is the first to examine his illustrious career and famous collaborations. Including photographs from private collections and museums, the book focuses on a variety of aspects of his work, from his collaborations with Boy George, John Galliano and Thierry Mugler to his work with photographers Bruce Weber and Nick Knight. -
The Parkland Walk Trail, Butterfly Hunt and Photographic Competition
The Parkland Walk Trail, Butterfly Hunt and Photographic Competition Welcome to the Parkland Walk Nature Trail, Butterfly Hunt and Photographic Competition. The Parkland Walk has a number of marker posts along its length. The section between Finsbury Park and Highgate has 14. The key below will guide you as to what to look out for. In addition to these marker posts, we have added extra ‘butterfly posts’ just for the duration of the Crouch End Festival. Each post has a picture of a butterfly that you might hope to see on the Walk, and some have a letter. Make a note of all the letters and arrange them at the end of the Trail to make a phrase. Each butterfly post will also carry a simple question to see how much you know about nature. It’s just for fun, no prizes, but you might be surprised at what you learn. Keep a note of how many you get right. The answer to each question will be found at the next post. Finally we are running a photo competition, so if you see something along the way, take a picture and send it to us and you might win a £20 gift voucher. Brief details are on the last page. Full details and terms can be found on our website www.parkland-walk.org.uk The Parkland Walk Nature Trail The Oxford Road entrance at Finsbury Park marks the beginning of the 1 Parkland Walk. Over 300 kinds of plants and trees have been found. Most are native English species, but some have ‘escaped’ from local gardens. -
Parks, People and Nature
Parks, People and Nature A guide to enhancing natural habitats in London’s parks and green spaces in a changing climate Natural England works for people, places and nature to conserve and enhance biodiversity, landscapes and wildlife in rural, urban, coastal and marine areas. We conserve and enhance the natural environment for its intrinsic value, iithe wellbeing and enjoyment of people, and the economic prosperity it brings. Parks, People and Nature A guide to enhancing natural habitats in London’s parks and green spaces in a changing climate Introduction My vision for London is of a green city, and a fair city, where everyone has access to a high quality green space in which wildlife can be encountered close to where they live and work. London has some of the Ýnest parks of any capital city in the world. Yet it also has some areas lacking in green space, and many more where the quality of the green spaces could be better. This booklet provides a valuable practical guide on how to improve access to nature in parks and green spaces, complimenting my London Plan Implementation Report on Improving LondonersÔ access to nature. Appropriate design and management of our parks and green spaces will be one of the key challenges that will enable the City to adapt to climate change. Park managers need to be working now to plant the trees that will provide shade for a much warmer city in the 2080s. We also need to start thinking now how our parks can help in addressing broader environmental challenges such as Þood risk management. -
LBR 2007 Front Matter V5.1
1 London Bird Report No.72 for the year 2007 Accounts of birds recorded within a 20-mile radius of St Paul's Cathedral A London Natural History Society Publication Published April 2011 2 LONDON BIRD REPORT NO. 72 FOR 2007 3 London Bird Report for 2007 produced by the LBR Editorial Board Contents Introduction and Acknowledgements – Pete Lambert 5 Rarities Committee, Recorders and LBR Editors 7 Recording Arrangements 8 Map of the Area and Gazetteer of Sites 9 Review of the Year 2007 – Pete Lambert 16 Contributors to the Systematic List 22 Birds of the London Area 2007 30 Swans to Shelduck – Des McKenzie Dabbling Ducks – David Callahan Diving Ducks – Roy Beddard Gamebirds – Richard Arnold and Rebecca Harmsworth Divers to Shag – Ian Woodward Herons – Gareth Richards Raptors – Andrew Moon Rails – Richard Arnold and Rebecca Harmsworth Waders – Roy Woodward and Tim Harris Skuas to Gulls – Andrew Gardener Terns to Cuckoo – Surender Sharma Owls to Woodpeckers – Mark Pearson Larks to Waxwing – Sean Huggins Wren to Thrushes – Martin Shepherd Warblers – Alan Lewis Crests to Treecreeper – Jonathan Lethbridge Penduline Tit to Sparrows – Jan Hewlett Finches – Angela Linnell Buntings – Bob Watts Appendix I & II: Escapes & Hybrids – Martin Grounds Appendix III: Non-proven and Non-submitted Records First and Last Dates of Regular Migrants, 2007 170 Ringing Report for 2007 – Roger Taylor 171 Breeding Bird Survey in London, 2007 – Ian Woodward 181 Cannon Hill Common Update – Ron Kettle 183 The establishment of breeding Common Buzzards – Peter Oliver 199 -
FALL / WINTER 2015/2016 Fashion Opts
THE FASHION GROUP FOUNDATION PRESENTS FALL / WINTER 2015/2016 TREND OVERVIEW BY MARYLOU LUTHER N E W Y O R K • LONDON • MILAN • PARIS A F VANDERVOORST Fashion opts for options. It’s a season of either/or. Either a mini or maxi, she/he, tough/ tender, nice/naughty, romance/reality, minimal/maximal, crafts/technology, the ladies who lunch/the ladies who breakfast. Time-traveling sped through many decades, but the favorite destinations for many designers were the late ‘60s/early ‘70s. The mini-ed Mods were followed by mini/maxi duos. By the late ‘60s it was hip to be a hippie, a Boho in Soho, living on the fringe in fringe. Pants flared. Suede was the hide of record. Peasants and gypsies were fashion role models. Hats brimmed over. Granny boots walked the streets of Haight Ashbury. As The ‘70s proceeded, Boho was upgraded to the Rich Hippie. Velvet and lace, brocade and matelassé were the fabrics of record. Ruffled and ruffed romanticism, including latter-day Victorians, flourished. All these “Me Decade” (that’s what Tom Wolfe called The ‘70s) relics have been re-discovered, remodeled and reconfigured for fall. The ‘80s were big on big. So are numbers of today’s designers, especially Phoebe Philo of Céline, Vivienne Westwood and Andreas Melbostad of Diesel Black Gold. The unisex of The ‘60s was followed by the androgyny of The ‘80s, with Giorgio Armani leading the way. The man’s jacket became the mantle of authority for the women’s movement. Tomorrow’s she/he conjoins include tuxedo jackets with full skirts, aviator jackets with evening dresses, overalls with jeweled blouses and pinstriped blazers with shirts and fur skirts. -
South East Walker June 2017 a Walk in the Park
SOUTH EAST No. 98 June 2017 Publicwalker path victory at Harrow ocal residents, backed by known as numbers 57 and 58 in the had argued that Harrow Council the Open Spaces Society, London Borough of Harrow, which should make the school reopen the Lthe Ramblers and Harrow have for centuries run in direct lines path, as required by law but instead Hill Trust, have defeated plans by across the land now forming part of the council chickened out and elite Harrow School to move two its grounds. agreed to allow the school to move public footpaths across its sports Footpath 57 follows a north - the path around the obstructions. pitches, all-weather pitches and south route between Football Lane Footpath 58 runs in a direct line Signs point the way from Football Lane. tennis courts. The objectors and Pebworth Road. The school between the bottom of Football fought the plans at a six-day obstructed the footpath with tennis Lane and Watford Road, and objectors represented themselves. straight towards it. The proposed public inquiry earlier this year. courts surrounded by fencing in the school applied to move it to a Appearing as objectors at the diversions are inconvenient and The government inspector, Ms 2003. For nine years, the school zigzag route to avoid the current inquiry were Kate Ashbrook of considerably longer'. Alison Lea, has now rejected the even padlocked the gates across configuration of its sports pitches. the Open Spaces Society and the Says Kate Ashbrook, General proposals. another section of the path but Alison Lea refused the proposals Ramblers, Gareth Thomas MP, Secretary of the Open Spaces Harrow School wanted to move reopened them following pressure principally because of the impact of Harrow councillor Sue Anderson, Society and Footpath Secretary for the two public footpaths, officially from the objectors. -
Route Description 2018 Final
LDWA London The 2nd Capital Challenge Saturday 7th April 2018 START The Bar and Restaurant at BFI Southbank SE1 8XT (formerly the British Film Institute) under Waterloo Bridge. TQ308804 The Riverfront entrance is closed for refurbishment. Use the main “Lightbox” entrance to the foyer and box office on Theatre Avenue, opposite the National Theatre; see https://whatson.bfi.org.uk and go to Your visit/How to get here and Access information. Registration Open 08:00 to 09:00 FINISH The View Tube Cafe, The Greenway, Marshgate Lane, E15 2PJ Open 14:30 to 19:00 TQ378838 Total Distance 27.6 miles Practicalities There are plenty of toilets (indicated in route description). Many are free. However it is useful to have a few small coins to hand, especially for the central London area. Toilets get cheaper as the walk progresses so make full use of BFI facilities. There are also several drinking fountains which provide good artesian water. You may want to carry some food and snacks to save time but you are unlikely to starve. A torch is essential especially as the later stages of the walk are along canals. Hazards • Roads. Use Crossings but where this is not possible take extra care. • Canal towpaths and other waterside areas and paths shared with cyclists. • Show consideration for other pedestrians especially on narrow paths. PLEASE TAKE CARE AT ALL TIMES YOU UNDERTAKE THIS WALK AT YOUR OWN RISK HQ Mobiles: Gordon Parker 07891 196930 Jean O'Reilly 07766 622702 If you retire please try to do so at a Checkpoint; in any event please notify HQ Route Description Entries in CAPITALS are briefly described in the notes at the end. -
Alexandra Palace to Tottenham Hale Walk
Saturday Walkers Club www.walkingclub.org.uk Alexandra Palace to Tottenham Hale walk Alexandra Palace, the Parkland Walk (a former railway line), two restored Wetlands and several cafés in north London Length Main Walk: 15¾ km (9.8 miles). Three hours 45 minutes walking time. For the whole excursion including trains, sights and meals, allow at least 7 hours. Short Walk 1, from Highgate: 11½ km (7.1 miles). Two hours 35 minutes walking time. Short Walk 2, to Manor House: 11½ km (7.1 miles). Two hours 45 minutes walking time. OS Map Explorer 173. Alexandra Palace is in north London, 10 km N of Westminster. Toughness 3 out of 10 (2 for the short walks from Alexandra Palace, 1 for the others). Features This walk is essentially a merger of two short walks. The first part is the popular Parkland Walk, a linear nature reserve created along the trackbed of a disused railway line. The second part links two new nature reserves created from operational Thames Water reservoirs, using a waymarked cycle/pedestrian route along residential streets. The walk starts with a short climb through Alexandra Park to Alexandra Palace, with splendid views of the London skyline from its terrace. This entertainment venue was intended as the north London counterpart to the Crystal Palace and although it was destroyed by fire just two weeks after opening in 1873 it was promptly rebuilt. Its private owners tried to sell the site and parkland for development in 1900 but it was acquired by a group of local authorities for the benefit of the public. -
Twenties Something
TOMMY’S PROENZA SCHOULER, CALVIN KLEIN NEW AND L’WREN SCOTT WERE AMONG THE STANDOUTS AS THE NEW YORK SCENT COLLECTIONS WOUND DOWN. FOR MORE, Tommy Hilfi ger SEE PAGES 6 TO 10 sticks to his roots with his latest fragrance, Eau de Prep. PAGE 12 COLLECTIONS 2012 NEW YORK SPRING WWDFRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2011 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 CALENDAR CLASH Milan vs. New York Over 2012 Show Dates By LUISA ZARGANI and MARC KARIMZADEH MILAN WANTS TO SHAKE UP the show calendar — and New York and London are digging in their heels. The spring 2013 shows are slated to kick off in New York on Sept. 13 — a date that’s become a thorn in the Milanese side, with Mario Boselli, head of the Italian Chamber of Fashion, lashing out at a calendar he believes was foisted upon the Italians by New York’s Council of Fashion Designers of America. In 2008, the governing fashion organizations of the four fashion capitals — New York, London, Milan and Paris — agreed to kick off the collections season on the second Thursday in February and September. Sometimes — like this year — that means the New York shows start three days after Labor Day, but for the next three years, the shows will kick off the following week. Boselli claimed the sec- ond Thursday rule was only for the short term. “After three years, we should sit down and decide on the next three years, and we don’t understand why the CFDA has single- handedly set the New York show dates later in September next year,” Boselli said.