Leisure Class Men’S New York Market Week Kicks Off This Weekend with a Well Segmented Variety of Trade Shows and a Wide Selection of Product Offerings

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

Leisure Class Men’S New York Market Week Kicks Off This Weekend with a Well Segmented Variety of Trade Shows and a Wide Selection of Product Offerings Page 1 Thursday s s RETAIL: Wal-Mart s DENIM: FINANCIAL: The launching new green Retail stocks industry initiative, page 8. gain 2.5% is betting in broader on denim market rally, s for back- page 14. FASHION: The iconic to-school, Ossie Clark label is page 7. shutting down, page 3. Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 16, 2009 • $3.00 WwDTHURSdSportswear/Men’sAY Leisure Class Men’s New York market week kicks off this weekend with a well segmented variety of trade shows and a wide selection of product offerings. A sense of leisure pervades collections across all markets this season. Here, a linen Christopher Fischer sweater worn with polyester shorts by Parke & Ronen. Cutler & Gross sunglasses; Samira 13 necklaces; Tateossian bracelets. For more market week previews, see section II. A Threatened Industry On the Edge of Chaos Should CIT Group Fail By Evan Clark The industry is facing potential turmoil after CIT Group Inc., which provides basic financing for thousands of small- and midsized apparel retailers and vendors, said Wednesday it probably won’t be rescued by a federal bailout. After days of intense negotiations, the New York-based commercial lender said there was “no appreciable likelihood of additional government support being provided in the near term.” The company said it was “evaluating alternatives” with its advisers. The disclosure raised the possibility of a bankruptcy filing by the financial giant and left many vendors and retailers in limbo about how they’ll finance their fall shipments and finance their businesses. See CIT, Page3 PHOTO BY JEFFREY COHEN; MODEL: JAKE M./FORD; HAIR BY RYAN TANIGUCHI FOR TRESEMME; FASHION ASSISTANT: LUIS CAMPUZANO; STYLED BY ALEX BADIA CAMPUZANO; STYLED BY LUIS ASSISTANT: FOR TRESEMME; FASHION TANIGUCHI RYAN JEFFREY COHEN; MODEL: JAKE M./FORD; HAIR BY PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSSportswear/Men’sDAY FASHION 6 Although the overall men’s color palette for spring ™ has been dominated by dark, neutral tones, red A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based was the exception, in suits, coats and bags. on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL 1 CIT Group Inc. said Wednesday it had been advised there was “no appreciable likelihood” of TAKING A PULSE ON IMPULSE SHOPPING additional government support. BEAT: Ginny Hilfiger, who started her high-end Examining the Urge to Buy in Tough Economic Times s 6 Ginny H fashion brand in 2005, is getting into the bridge area with a line of tops and day dresses. In a world now embracing a “less is more” create something compelling to encourage impulse 7 DENIM: In a troubled landscape, retailers and philosophy, what are shoppers doing when they see a buys,” says Chroust, the retail trade executive. brands are targeting denim as the vehicle to drive garment they simply “must have”? “Today, that’s a harder sell, but they recognize that sales in the back-to-school selling season. Believe it or not, that depends less on pressing value propositions will resonate with shoppers. In 8 China must do more to open its market to U.S. financial concerns and more on the shopper herself. apparel, that value proposition is that one garment goods, services and investment, Commerce For many women in these challenging times, the that can update any wardrobe, is easy to care for and Secretary Gary Locke said in Beijing. term “must have” has taken on new meaning. “I makes many different outfits wearable for different First-quarter revenues at Burberry Group were seasons. Those are the pieces used to think of ‘must haves’ 8 boosted by the strong euro and new store as those great new pieces of that consumers are likely openings, rising 8.5 percent to $478.9 million. clothing screaming at you “I think consumers are thinking buying without planning.” from the pages of fashion about buyer’s regret before they Alle Fister, founder and 14 Mariella Burani Fashion Group is shaking up top management to strengthen the independence of magazines,” says Kimberly, a owner of Bollare, a West make a purchase, and that’s become its board as it restructures debt. marketing executive who was part of the new shopping process Coast-based fashion and EYE unemployed temporarily this and this new way of thinking about lifestyle communications spring. “Now I think of ‘must firm, agrees. “I am looking how and where one might best be 16 The fashion crowd gathered Monday night to pay haves’ as things like a roof over for special pieces that are homage to the first moon walk, which occurred my head and groceries in the spending any money.” wardrobe staples and have in outer space 40 years ago. kitchen. Of course, I still shop – Casey Chroust, Retail Industry character to make them a Men’s New York Market Preview is for clothing, but I am not as Leaders Association worthy purchase,” Fister says. included as a Section II in this issue. quick to buy that great new top “I am trying to buy key pieces A Ginny H day dress. or pair of shoes as I once was.” that will be able to carry over Classified Advertisements.................................................................................................15 These days, even those in the fashion industry to the next season so that I get the most out of every TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS are quick to take a more cautious approach when purchase.” [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’s name. Fitting the bill of easy care, versatility and an ability shopping for apparel these days. “I am not as likely to WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 buy something now as I used to be,” says the designer to transcend seasons is everyone’s favorite fiber: FAIRCHILD FASHION GROU P. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Lela Rose. “I think about my purchases more, and cotton. A significant 76% of female respondents and VOLUME 198, NO. 11. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June am able to weed out the impulse purchase that way.” 82% of male respondents cite cotton/cotton blends and August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division “I think consumers are thinking about buyer’s as their favorite fabrics to wear. of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. regret before they make a purchase, and that’s Like women, men today are also looking for the Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage become part of the new shopping process and this exceptional in their impulse purchases. “I do have paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian new way of thinking about how and where one the impulse buyer in me, but when I make the buy, addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES might best be spending any money,” says Casey it has to be the one thing I have been waiting for a TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, Chroust, Senior Vice President of Retail Operations long time for someone to finally make,” says Tony Ta CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as for the Retail Industry Leaders Association, a retail of JT Handbags, a luxury collection he co-founded printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to advocacy group based in Arlington, VA. with partner Jeffrey Parker. “But I also am looking one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You Women have long been “planners” when it for the one thing that no one else has. Yes, it does will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues.” First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third comes to shopping. When asked how they made have to be special.” Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to the majority of their purchases in 2009, 62% of Rose, the designer, also adopts a wait-and-see 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that women said they had planned them, according to policy with her apparel purchases. “I have been an offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ survey impulse shopper in the past, but have resisted it information, please advise us at P.
Recommended publications
  • Source Issue 2
    SS | 2015 LISTEN LIVE HACKNEY MUSIC HANG-OUTS MEET THE MAKERS LONDON INNOVATION AT ITS BEST FRESH LONDON LIVING IN AND AROUND WOODBERRY DOWN WOODBERRY AROUND LIVING IN AND FRESH LONDON HACKNEY CYCLE GUIDE TEAR OUT AND SADDLE UP HAND CRAFTED THE ART OF THE MICROBREWERY discover the river AT your doorstep... FREE new Welcome elcome to the Spring In the midst of one of the capital’s most river Summer 2015 issue of eclectic areas, Woodberry Down is a Source magazine. place that offers the tranquility of nature alongside a rich sense of community. As the season invites the TRAIL W Steeped in history, the area promises an opportunity for adventure, we curate the exciting future as it undergoes substantial very best North London experiences to fill growth. those long summer days and balmy nights. Source is published on behalf of Berkeley, From exploring the nature trail at 3rd october 2015 one of the UK’s most respected residential Woodberry Wetlands to the local summer developers and recipient of The Queen’s market, outdoor cinema screenings Award for Enterprise. As a company that and the popular Hidden River Festival, builds not just homes but helps create nowhere else in London offers such a neighbourhoods, Source is designed to varied place to live. celebrate the people and places that shape Food STALLS a genuinely vibrant community. Through a mix of interviews, reviews and feature articles, discover an area known for HISTORY innovation, craftsmanship, arts and culture. SAVE the reservoirs CAMPAIGn live music THEATRE Source on your tablet Available on your iPad or NATURE CELEBRATION Android tablet.
    [Show full text]
  • Fashioning Gender Fashioning Gender
    FASHIONING GENDER FASHIONING GENDER: A CASE STUDY OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY BY ALLYSON STOKES, B.A.(H), M.A. A THESIS SUBMITTED TO THE DEPARTMENT OF SOCIOLOGY AND THE SCHOOL OF GRADUATE STUDIES OF MCMASTER UNIVERSITY IN PARTIAL FULFILMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY c Copyright by Allyson Stokes, August 2013 All Rights Reserved Doctor of Philosophy (2013) McMaster University (Sociology) Hamilton, Ontario, Canada TITLE: Fashioning Gender: A Case Study of the Fashion Industry AUTHOR: Allyson Stokes BA.H., MA SUPERVISOR: Dr. Tina Fetner NUMBER OF PAGES: xii, 169 ii For Johnny. iii Abstract This dissertation uses the case of the fashion industry to explore gender inequality in cre- ative cultural work. Data come from 63 in-depth interviews, media texts, labor market statistics, and observation at Toronto’s fashion week. The three articles comprising this sandwich thesis address: (1) processes through which femininity and feminized labor are devalued; (2) the gendered distribution of symbolic capital among fashion designers; and (3) the gendered organization of the fashion industry and the “ideal creative worker.” In chapter two, I apply devaluation theory to the fashion industry in Canada. This chap- ter makes two contributions to literature on the devaluation of femininity and “women’s work.” First, while devaluation is typically used to explain the gender wage gap, I also address symbolic aspects of devaluation related to respect, prestige, and interpretations of worth. Second, this paper shows that processes of devaluation vary and are heavily shaped by the context in which work is performed. I address five processes of devaluation in fash- ion: (1) trivialization, (2) the privileging of men and masculinity, (3) the production of a smokescreen of glamour, (4) the use of free labor and “free stuff,” and (5) the construction of symbolic boundaries between “work horses” and “show ponies.” In chapter three, I use media analysis to investigate male advantage in the predomi- nantly female field of fashion design.
    [Show full text]
  • Press Release 15 January 2013 Swarovski Whitechapel Gallery Art
    Press Release 15 January 2013 Swarovski Whitechapel Gallery Art Plus Fashion: Giles Deacon , Bella Freud, Marios Schwab and Nadja Swarovski collaborate with the Whitechapel Gallery for annual fundraising gala 14 March 2013, 7pm - late The Whitechapel Gallery announces an exceptional evening of art, fashion and moving-image on Thursday 14 March 2013 for the annual fundraising gala in partnership with Swarovski. Major names from the world of fashion including Giles Deacon , Bella Freud, Marios Schwab and Nadja Swarovski select the most promising fashion postgraduates emerging from London to take centre stage in the first ever live catwalk show in the Gallery. Whitechapel Gallery Director Iwona Blazwick OBE , Nadja Swarovski , Member of Swarovski’s Executive Board, Mollie Dent-Brocklehurst , Art Plus Chair and Justine Picardie , Harper’s Bazaar Editor-in-Chief, lead a committee of renowned figures from the worlds of art, fashion, film and music, inviting guests to join an evening premiering the next generation of designers. Funds raised support the Whitechapel Gallery’s Education programme, which works with thousands of children and diverse community groups every year. For Swarovski Whitechapel Gallery Art Plus Fashion , outstanding postgraduate fashion collections will be paired with work by leading moving-image artists, followed by live music and celebrity DJs. An auction led by Sotheby’s Oliver Barker includes works generously donated by major contemporary artists. Guests will have the opportunity to bid on works by Andrea Büttner , Minerva Cuevas, Corinne Day, Sam Durant, Cornelia Parker, Bridget Riley, Bob and Roberta Smith and Catherine Yass . Swarovski Whitechapel Gallery Art Plus Fashion will feature a stunning catwalk show with creative direction by Sara Blonstein and Chris Ford from Blonstein & Associates .
    [Show full text]
  • Stephen Jones Datasheet
    TITLE INFORMATION Tel: +44 (0) 1394 389950 Email: [email protected] Web: https://www.accartbooks.com/uk Stephen Jones And the Accent of Fashion Hanish Bowles ISBN 9781851496525 Publisher ACC Art Books Binding Hardback Territory World Size 300 mm x 240 mm Pages 240 Pages Illustrations 297 color Price £45.00 First monograph on the work of the celebrated milliner Stephen Jones With a preface by John Galliano and texts by authorities such as Hamish Bowles, Andrew Bolton, Suzy Menkes and Anna Piaggi, with new photography by Nick Knight and David Bailey "Picture the moment, in the run-up to a Christian Dior haute couture show. John Galliano is working silently in the Paris studio with his friend and ally, the master milliner Stephen Jones. The designer is looking at the arc of a silhouette, the drape of a skirt and the tilt of a hat: 'I often work through a mirror for most of my decisions and I always see Stephen's reflection,' says Galliano. 'He is reading my every nuance. He is studying my face. I don't need to say anything - he can read my mind'." - From the essay by Suzy Menkes. Stephen Jones is one of the world's most talented and distinguished milliners. This exquisitely illustrated monograph is the first to examine his illustrious career and famous collaborations. Including photographs from private collections and museums, the book focuses on a variety of aspects of his work, from his collaborations with Boy George, John Galliano and Thierry Mugler to his work with photographers Bruce Weber and Nick Knight.
    [Show full text]
  • FALL / WINTER 2015/2016 Fashion Opts
    THE FASHION GROUP FOUNDATION PRESENTS FALL / WINTER 2015/2016 TREND OVERVIEW BY MARYLOU LUTHER N E W Y O R K • LONDON • MILAN • PARIS A F VANDERVOORST Fashion opts for options. It’s a season of either/or. Either a mini or maxi, she/he, tough/ tender, nice/naughty, romance/reality, minimal/maximal, crafts/technology, the ladies who lunch/the ladies who breakfast. Time-traveling sped through many decades, but the favorite destinations for many designers were the late ‘60s/early ‘70s. The mini-ed Mods were followed by mini/maxi duos. By the late ‘60s it was hip to be a hippie, a Boho in Soho, living on the fringe in fringe. Pants flared. Suede was the hide of record. Peasants and gypsies were fashion role models. Hats brimmed over. Granny boots walked the streets of Haight Ashbury. As The ‘70s proceeded, Boho was upgraded to the Rich Hippie. Velvet and lace, brocade and matelassé were the fabrics of record. Ruffled and ruffed romanticism, including latter-day Victorians, flourished. All these “Me Decade” (that’s what Tom Wolfe called The ‘70s) relics have been re-discovered, remodeled and reconfigured for fall. The ‘80s were big on big. So are numbers of today’s designers, especially Phoebe Philo of Céline, Vivienne Westwood and Andreas Melbostad of Diesel Black Gold. The unisex of The ‘60s was followed by the androgyny of The ‘80s, with Giorgio Armani leading the way. The man’s jacket became the mantle of authority for the women’s movement. Tomorrow’s she/he conjoins include tuxedo jackets with full skirts, aviator jackets with evening dresses, overalls with jeweled blouses and pinstriped blazers with shirts and fur skirts.
    [Show full text]
  • Twenties Something
    TOMMY’S PROENZA SCHOULER, CALVIN KLEIN NEW AND L’WREN SCOTT WERE AMONG THE STANDOUTS AS THE NEW YORK SCENT COLLECTIONS WOUND DOWN. FOR MORE, Tommy Hilfi ger SEE PAGES 6 TO 10 sticks to his roots with his latest fragrance, Eau de Prep. PAGE 12 COLLECTIONS 2012 NEW YORK SPRING WWDFRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16, 2011 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 CALENDAR CLASH Milan vs. New York Over 2012 Show Dates By LUISA ZARGANI and MARC KARIMZADEH MILAN WANTS TO SHAKE UP the show calendar — and New York and London are digging in their heels. The spring 2013 shows are slated to kick off in New York on Sept. 13 — a date that’s become a thorn in the Milanese side, with Mario Boselli, head of the Italian Chamber of Fashion, lashing out at a calendar he believes was foisted upon the Italians by New York’s Council of Fashion Designers of America. In 2008, the governing fashion organizations of the four fashion capitals — New York, London, Milan and Paris — agreed to kick off the collections season on the second Thursday in February and September. Sometimes — like this year — that means the New York shows start three days after Labor Day, but for the next three years, the shows will kick off the following week. Boselli claimed the sec- ond Thursday rule was only for the short term. “After three years, we should sit down and decide on the next three years, and we don’t understand why the CFDA has single- handedly set the New York show dates later in September next year,” Boselli said.
    [Show full text]
  • Official Guide 21 June to 9 September
    <^]S^]" !"6TbcXeP[ Official guide 21 June to 9 September Welcome to the London 2012 Festival! When the UK won the bid for the 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, we promised that this ‘once in a lifetime’ event would include a great cultural programme that could involve people nationwide. When we are asked why, we go back to the example of Ancient Greece, where the Olympic Games included artists as well as athletes. As recently as the London 1948 Games, artists were awarded medals along with the athletes. This Festival has invited artists from all over the world to create amazing events from Shetland to Cornwall, from Enniskillen to Edinburgh, from Hackney to Hadrian’s Wall – with more than 10 million FREE opportunities to take part. The Festival would not be possible without our cultural and community partners throughout the UK. But most of all, it simply would not have happened without our great funding partners and sponsors. We offer our huge thanks to them for what we hope will be a fantastic Festival for the Olympic and Paralympic Games. 9]bXSTcWTVdXST 5 Have a fabulous Festival 6 The Director’s cut Director Ruth Mackenzie gives a taste of the Seb Coe Tony Hall Festival programme Chair, London 2012 Chair, Cultural Organising Committee Olympiad Board 8 Where will you be on 21 June? Four sensational performances taking place on opening day The London 2012 Festival is only possible thanks to the exceptional 12 The unforgettable and generous support of our funders, sponsors and partners. We summer of 2012 are enormously grateful to the
    [Show full text]
  • Annual Review 2014/15
    Annual Review 2014/15 2 04 Welcome to another chapter in our story Contents 05 Our work is guided by four principles 06 Chairman – Reflection: 2014/15 and the last nine years 07 Chief Executive – Looking ahead O8 We remember 14 Showmanship 22 Our first year at Hillsborough Castle 24 Guardianship 30 Discovery 36 Independence 40 Money matters 41 Visitor trends 42 Summarised financial statements 44 Trustees and Directors 46 Supporters 48 Acknowledgments Clockwise from top left: The White Tower, Tower of London; the West Front, Hampton Court Palace; the East Front, Kensington Palace; the South Front, Hillsborough Castle; Kew Palace; Banqueting House. What an extraordinary year: our first year at Hillsborough Castle, Welcome to a spring of Georgian celebrations, a glorious summer of family festivals, then an autumn dominated by Poppies at the Tower of another London. The result of a mighty artistic and practical collaboration, the installation ‘Blood Swept Lands and Seas of Red’ took over chapter in the moat from August; overcoming enormous logistical challenges before conquering hearts and minds on an our story unprecedented scale. Hundreds of people across Historic Royal Palaces and tens of thousands of volunteers worked together on an epic project that by November had captured the imagination of many millions across the world. 4 Guardianship: Our work is We exist for tomorrow, not just for yesterday. Our job is to give these palaces a future as valuable as their past. We know how guided by four precious they and their contents are, and we aim to conserve principles them to the standard they deserve: the best.
    [Show full text]
  • Print Power Roles in Politics, Only 1.7 Percent of the Retailers in Spring’S Coolest Patterns Come in Digital Kaleidoscope Motifs
    WWD CEO SUMMIT CANCELED MAJOR STORM FORCES POSTPONEMENT OF EVENT. PAGE 2 STORE CLOSURES SEEN Retailers Brace For Sandy’s Wrath By DAVID MOIN and EVAN CLARK RETAILERS UP AND DOWN the East Coast spent the WWD weekend bracing for Hurricane Sandy — one of the largest storms to hit the region in decades. Hurricane-force winds were expected along por- MONDAY, OCTOBER 29, 20 EAR DAILY Q $3.00 tions of the coast between Chincoteague, Va., and Chatam, Mass., according to the National Hurricane Center, which also warned of a storm surge. Wal-Mart Stores Inc. said it had six stores in areas scheduled to be evacuated late Sunday and that the number was expected to rise. Business did not grind to a halt Sunday, however. In downtown Washington, D.C., where it hadn’t yet started to rain, Macy’s, Banana Republic and other stores were open. New Yorkers seemed more interested in last-min- ute storm supplies than the latest fashions as the sky darkened and winds picked up in the afternoon. Foot traffic was slow at the usually bustling 34th Street and Fifth Avenue shopping corridors. Saks Fifth Avenue was preparing to board up its flagship in the afternoon and stay closed today. Bergdorf Goodman was also boarding up its win- dows, although some customers were unfazed and continued to shop in the store. The window displays at Aéropostale had also been covered up by plywood on West 34th Street, where the chairs in front of the MERCER Macy’s Herald Square flagship were removed. At EMILY least some Gap and Victoria’s Secret stores were closing early.
    [Show full text]
  • Company Analysis Report Burberry & Mulberry
    Company Analysis Report Burberry & Mulberry M2Di Angela Anthony - [email protected] Emi Kenny-Troughton - [email protected] Evita Lie - [email protected] Alda Júlía Magnúsdóttir - [email protected] Susanne Maier - [email protected] Greta Schliek - [email protected] Contents 1 - Introduction 2 - Industry Analysis: Porter´s 5 Forces 4 - Brand History 5 - Business Model Canvas 6 - Glocalisation 6 - Mintzberg’s 5P’s 8 - 7P’s Marketing Mix 10 - Positioning Matrix 11 - Brand Equity 12- Balanced Score Card 15 - Benchmarking 16 - Conclusion 17 - Appendix 36 - Source List Introduction It was the year 1856 when dressmaker Thomas Burberry opened his first store in Basing- stoke Hampshire, England. Little did he know that just over 100 years later a man called Rog- er Saul would opened a competitor store, Mulberry, only a 90 miles away in Somerset. In response to the technological revolution and mass production trend still occurring today many fashion consumers are revisiting their roots and opting for heritage brands such as Burberry and Mulberry, who offer a more comforting and wholesome set of values as well as a fashion for- ward aesthetic. Over the past decade both brands have lost popularity due to various factors and both have consequently attempted to rejuvenate their image. However Mulberry is still strug- gling while Burberry has successfully reclaimed its place in the luxury goods market, leading to our research question; “Why has Mulberry’s relaunch been less successful than Burberry’s?”. We started out by using models such as Porter’s 5 Forces to understand the macro situation of both brands and then progressed to the Business Model Canvas, Mintzberg’s 5Ps and Glocalisation to better understand the inner workings of both companies.
    [Show full text]
  • London College of Fashion
    London College of Fashion INTRODUCTION TO THE GRADUATE SCHOOL “What I like about LCF is the commitment to quality.” HILARY ALEXANDER Former Daily Telegraph Fashion Director Oliver Ruuger MA Fashion Artefact Nam Young Kim MA Fashion Design Technology, Womenswear Contents Introduction to the Graduate School 6 London is Your Campus 10 LCF in the World 12 Working with Industry 16 Our Graduates - Where are they now? 22 Research at London College of Fashion 37 Research Centres & Hubs 44 How to Apply 50 Scholarships and Awards 53 Student Services 54 Course Information 64 Contact Information 120 5 London Introduction to College of Fashion The Graduate School Now more than ever, we are engaging with the creative, The interdisciplinary nature of our commercial and social issues that Postgraduate and research activity surround and shape the widening allows for dynamic interaction world of fashion. At national and between disciplines and the international level, we are making continual cross-fertilisation of our mark on the industry today, and ideas. We recruit a dynamic mix of students anticipating future challenges. a range of academic backgrounds and professions. We have a range of courses including Graduate Diploma, Postgraduate At this level, LCF attracts self- Certificates, Postgraduate Diplomas motivated people who embrace and Masters’ degrees. the dual challenge of independent study and close collaboration - and To study a Postgraduate Diploma find that exposure to the views of or a Masters degree you will others widens their perspective, need to have a related Honours enriches the learning experience and degree. If you do not have this accelerates creative development.
    [Show full text]
  • Typology of Dress in Contemporary Fashion
    [ Research Paper] EISSN 2234-0793 PISSN 1225-1151 Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 41, No. 1 (2017) p.98~115 https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2017.41.1.98 Typology of Dress in Contemporary Fashion Eunhyuk Yim† · Cynthia Istook* Dept. of Fashion Design, Sungkyunkwan University *Dept. of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, North Carolina State University Received October 19, 2016; Revised December 8, 2016; Accepted January 18, 2017 Abstract This study categorizes the formative aspects of dress and their implications according to the extent of reveal- ing or concealing corporeality based on body perceptions. By considering the notion of dress as bodily practice to be a theoretical and methodological framework, this study combines a literature survey and case analysis to analyze and classify the forms of women's dress since the 1920s when contemporary fashion took hold. As examined in this study, the typology of dress was categorized as body-consciousness, deformation, transform- ation, and formlessness. Body-consciousness that is achieved through tailoring, bias cutting, and stretchy fabric displays corporeality focusing on the structure and function of the body as an internalized corset. Deformations in dress are categorized into two different subcategories. One is the expansion or reduction of bodily features based on the vertical or horizontal grids of the body, which visualizes the anachronistic restraint of the body through an innerwear as outerwear strategy. The other is exaggerations of the bodily features irrelevant to the grid, which break from the limitations and constraints of the body as well as traditional notions of the body.
    [Show full text]