Leisure Class Men’S New York Market Week Kicks Off This Weekend with a Well Segmented Variety of Trade Shows and a Wide Selection of Product Offerings
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Page 1 Thursday s s RETAIL: Wal-Mart s DENIM: FINANCIAL: The launching new green Retail stocks industry initiative, page 8. gain 2.5% is betting in broader on denim market rally, s for back- page 14. FASHION: The iconic to-school, Ossie Clark label is page 7. shutting down, page 3. Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 16, 2009 • $3.00 WwDTHURSdSportswear/Men’sAY Leisure Class Men’s New York market week kicks off this weekend with a well segmented variety of trade shows and a wide selection of product offerings. A sense of leisure pervades collections across all markets this season. Here, a linen Christopher Fischer sweater worn with polyester shorts by Parke & Ronen. Cutler & Gross sunglasses; Samira 13 necklaces; Tateossian bracelets. For more market week previews, see section II. A Threatened Industry On the Edge of Chaos Should CIT Group Fail By Evan Clark The industry is facing potential turmoil after CIT Group Inc., which provides basic financing for thousands of small- and midsized apparel retailers and vendors, said Wednesday it probably won’t be rescued by a federal bailout. After days of intense negotiations, the New York-based commercial lender said there was “no appreciable likelihood of additional government support being provided in the near term.” The company said it was “evaluating alternatives” with its advisers. The disclosure raised the possibility of a bankruptcy filing by the financial giant and left many vendors and retailers in limbo about how they’ll finance their fall shipments and finance their businesses. See CIT, Page3 PHOTO BY JEFFREY COHEN; MODEL: JAKE M./FORD; HAIR BY RYAN TANIGUCHI FOR TRESEMME; FASHION ASSISTANT: LUIS CAMPUZANO; STYLED BY ALEX BADIA CAMPUZANO; STYLED BY LUIS ASSISTANT: FOR TRESEMME; FASHION TANIGUCHI RYAN JEFFREY COHEN; MODEL: JAKE M./FORD; HAIR BY PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSSportswear/Men’sDAY FASHION 6 Although the overall men’s color palette for spring ™ has been dominated by dark, neutral tones, red A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based was the exception, in suits, coats and bags. on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL 1 CIT Group Inc. said Wednesday it had been advised there was “no appreciable likelihood” of TAKING A PULSE ON IMPULSE SHOPPING additional government support. BEAT: Ginny Hilfiger, who started her high-end Examining the Urge to Buy in Tough Economic Times s 6 Ginny H fashion brand in 2005, is getting into the bridge area with a line of tops and day dresses. In a world now embracing a “less is more” create something compelling to encourage impulse 7 DENIM: In a troubled landscape, retailers and philosophy, what are shoppers doing when they see a buys,” says Chroust, the retail trade executive. brands are targeting denim as the vehicle to drive garment they simply “must have”? “Today, that’s a harder sell, but they recognize that sales in the back-to-school selling season. Believe it or not, that depends less on pressing value propositions will resonate with shoppers. In 8 China must do more to open its market to U.S. financial concerns and more on the shopper herself. apparel, that value proposition is that one garment goods, services and investment, Commerce For many women in these challenging times, the that can update any wardrobe, is easy to care for and Secretary Gary Locke said in Beijing. term “must have” has taken on new meaning. “I makes many different outfits wearable for different First-quarter revenues at Burberry Group were seasons. Those are the pieces used to think of ‘must haves’ 8 boosted by the strong euro and new store as those great new pieces of that consumers are likely openings, rising 8.5 percent to $478.9 million. clothing screaming at you “I think consumers are thinking buying without planning.” from the pages of fashion about buyer’s regret before they Alle Fister, founder and 14 Mariella Burani Fashion Group is shaking up top management to strengthen the independence of magazines,” says Kimberly, a owner of Bollare, a West make a purchase, and that’s become its board as it restructures debt. marketing executive who was part of the new shopping process Coast-based fashion and EYE unemployed temporarily this and this new way of thinking about lifestyle communications spring. “Now I think of ‘must firm, agrees. “I am looking how and where one might best be 16 The fashion crowd gathered Monday night to pay haves’ as things like a roof over for special pieces that are homage to the first moon walk, which occurred my head and groceries in the spending any money.” wardrobe staples and have in outer space 40 years ago. kitchen. Of course, I still shop – Casey Chroust, Retail Industry character to make them a Men’s New York Market Preview is for clothing, but I am not as Leaders Association worthy purchase,” Fister says. included as a Section II in this issue. quick to buy that great new top “I am trying to buy key pieces A Ginny H day dress. or pair of shoes as I once was.” that will be able to carry over Classified Advertisements.................................................................................................15 These days, even those in the fashion industry to the next season so that I get the most out of every TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS are quick to take a more cautious approach when purchase.” [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’s name. Fitting the bill of easy care, versatility and an ability shopping for apparel these days. “I am not as likely to WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 buy something now as I used to be,” says the designer to transcend seasons is everyone’s favorite fiber: FAIRCHILD FASHION GROU P. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Lela Rose. “I think about my purchases more, and cotton. A significant 76% of female respondents and VOLUME 198, NO. 11. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June am able to weed out the impulse purchase that way.” 82% of male respondents cite cotton/cotton blends and August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division “I think consumers are thinking about buyer’s as their favorite fabrics to wear. of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. regret before they make a purchase, and that’s Like women, men today are also looking for the Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage become part of the new shopping process and this exceptional in their impulse purchases. “I do have paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian new way of thinking about how and where one the impulse buyer in me, but when I make the buy, addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES might best be spending any money,” says Casey it has to be the one thing I have been waiting for a TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, Chroust, Senior Vice President of Retail Operations long time for someone to finally make,” says Tony Ta CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as for the Retail Industry Leaders Association, a retail of JT Handbags, a luxury collection he co-founded printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to advocacy group based in Arlington, VA. with partner Jeffrey Parker. “But I also am looking one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You Women have long been “planners” when it for the one thing that no one else has. Yes, it does will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues.” First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third comes to shopping. When asked how they made have to be special.” Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to the majority of their purchases in 2009, 62% of Rose, the designer, also adopts a wait-and-see 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that women said they had planned them, according to policy with her apparel purchases. “I have been an offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ survey impulse shopper in the past, but have resisted it information, please advise us at P.