WWD CEO SUMMIT CANCELED

MAJOR STORM FORCES POSTPONEMENT OF EVENT. PAGE 2

STORE CLOSURES SEEN Retailers Brace For Sandy’s Wrath

By DAVID MOIN and EVAN CLARK

RETAILERS UP AND DOWN the East Coast spent the WWD weekend bracing for Hurricane Sandy — one of the largest storms to hit the region in decades. Hurricane-force winds were expected along por- MONDAY, OCTOBER 29, 20 EAR DAILY Q $3.00 tions of the coast between Chincoteague, Va., and Chatam, Mass., according to the National Hurricane Center, which also warned of a storm surge. Wal-Mart Stores Inc. said it had six stores in areas scheduled to be evacuated late Sunday and that the number was expected to rise. Business did not grind to a halt Sunday, however. In downtown Washington, D.C., where it hadn’t yet started to rain, Macy’s, Banana Republic and other stores were open. New Yorkers seemed more interested in last-min- ute storm supplies than the latest fashions as the sky darkened and winds picked up in the afternoon. Foot traffic was slow at the usually bustling 34th Street and Fifth Avenue shopping corridors. Saks Fifth Avenue was preparing to board up its flagship in the afternoon and stay closed today. Bergdorf Goodman was also boarding up its win- dows, although some customers were unfazed and continued to shop in the store. The window displays at Aéropostale had also been covered up by plywood on West 34th Street, where the chairs in front of the MERCER Macy’s Herald Square flagship were removed. At

EMILY least some Gap and Victoria’s Secret stores were closing early. SEE PAGE 6 ASSISTANT:

FASHION Fashion’s Glass Ceiling

By EVAN CLARK DECERVANTES; CALL IT fashion’s great divide. Women shoppers make more than 80 percent of ADRIANA the purchase decisions in fashion — yet only a frac- tion of the corporate decisions. The modern Women’s Lib movement is about ASSISTANT: to turn 50, and while women are outpacing men in higher education and taking on more prominent

PHOTO Print Power roles in politics, only 1.7 percent of the retailers in Spring’s coolest patterns come in digital kaleidoscope motifs. From the Fortune 500 are led by female chief executive ROSADO; officers, according to Catalyst research. That is less left: Prabal Gurung’s rayon and silk crepe de chine dress with chiffon than half the average of 3.8 percent for all Fortune

CABIRIA veil; Peter Pilotto’s silk and cotton blouse and silk skirt; Nicole Miller 500 companies. BY A WWD examination of 38 prominent and publicly Artelier’s rayon, silk and spandex dress. For more, see pages 4 and 5. traded companies in the fashion, retail and beauty

MAKEUP worlds found only five women ceo’s, or 13.2 percent. The imbalance seems to be the product of both a

GROUP; lingering sexism in the corporate sphere and circum- stance as women strive for a work-life balance. The

WALL old boys’ club isn’t what it was, but it is still mostly

THE men deciding who gets the keys to the corner office. AT And companies are slow to identify women as rising

SEIJI stars and get them the experience they need to take

BY on bigger jobs.

HAIR “Can women ascend even further and can we have more women at the ceo level and in other leadership roles in society? The answer is yes,” TRUMP; said Anna Marie Valerio, president of Executive FOR Leadership Strategies, who has written about women leaders. “More women are getting them- MARTA selves prepared. They have been getting themselves IMG; prepared since the Eighties. It becomes more a FOR question of what else has to change.” Valerio said women need to get more “stretch” as-

JEANNE signments that give them a management role and profit and loss responsibilities, as well as a chance to inter- MUSE; act with customers and gain international experience. FOR “One of the issues for women and for their bosses really is to help women develop broader networks,”

LORENE she said. “Networks of people who can help them un- derstand how the whole [organization] works.” PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE

MODELS: SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2012 WWD.COM WWD CEO Summit Canceled THE BRIEFING BOX

WWD’S APPAREL AND The Summit had been sched- the event and will keep regis- IN TODAY’S WWD Retail CEO Summit has been uled for Oct. 29 and 30 at The tered participants, speakers and canceled due to the impend- Plaza hotel. WWD’s editors and sponsors informed. We regret ing hurricane approaching publishers are examining pos- any inconvenience and thank A view of the Parkview Green the New York region. sible future dates to reschedule all participants for their efforts. FangCaoDi structure in Beijing. Maus Frères Takes Control of Lacoste “This transaction is the up the advisory board, and had By MILES SOCHA best guarantee for the Lacoste owned 65 percent of Lacoste SA. brand’s long-term future and The 36-year-old Lacoste PARIS — It’s a changing of the the best way to fully capitalize Dournel has been on the com- guard at Lacoste SA. on its assets,” the company said. pany’s board since 2005, is part of SIM CHI YIN PHOTO BY Late on Friday, Swiss retail In September, Michel the second generation of the fam- Retailers up and down the East Coast spent the weekend group Maus Frères SA seized Lacoste’s estranged daughter ily shareholder structure and is a bracing for Hurricane Sandy — one of the largest storms to hit majority control of the maker Sophie Lacoste Dournel was granddaughter of founder René the region in decades. PAGE 1 of crocodile-logo polo shirts, Lacoste, a French tennis hero having signed an agreement and businessman who cre- Women continue to be under represented at the highest to acquire an additional 30.3 ated the Lacoste tennis shirt levels of fashion, but today’s top women leaders are hopeful percent of the firm’s capital. The deal values the in 1929. for the next generation. PAGE 1 Maus said the deal val- In a recent interview, ues the sportswear maker sportswear maker Lacoste Dournel said it’s Hayden-Harnett was acquired for an undisclosed sum by AHQ- at between 1 billion and 1.25 business as usual at the firm Accessory Headquarters LLC. PAGE 7 billion euros, or $1.3 billion and her principal focus going to $1.62 billion at current ex- at between 1 billion forward would be to grow the Asics has embraced a multimedia approach with a multitude of change. brand’s women’s business interactive elements to promote the ING New York City Marathon The Swiss retail firm al- and 1.25 billion and improve synergies be- this year. PAGE 7 ready controlled 35 percent tween Lacoste’s manufactur- of Lacoste via its Devanlay euros, or $1.3 billion ing partners, she said. Bridget Foley discusses the controversial decision by Lord & subsidiary, Lacoste’s apparel Maus Frères, controlled Taylor to open its Fifth Avenue flagship on Thanksgiving. PAGE 10 licensee. by the Maus and Nordmann Maus said it acquired the to $1.62 billion at families, has been in busi- “Dream catchers” was the theme of this year’s Fashion Group additional tranche of shares ness since 1902 and con- International’s Night of Stars. PAGE 13 from members of the found- current exchange. trols the Gant, Aigle and ing family, including former Parashop brands. Its retail A Glamour U.K. study, titled “21st Century Woman 2012,” president Michel Lacoste, who named president of the compa- banners include Manor depart- found that the vast majority of women polled are still regularly recently resigned from the ny’s non-executive board follow- ment stores, hardware and DIY buying glossy titles. PAGE 13 board amid a family tussle. ing a meeting of shareholders. chain Jumbo and sports retail- Maus noted it has offered to Lacoste Dournel’s election er Athleticum. Forever 21 said it has cooperated with the U.S. Department of buy the shares of remaining made headlines in France due to The group posted 2011 sales Labor by providing information on its labor practices. PAGE 15 shareholders at the same price. a conflict between some 20 mem- of 5.3 billion Swiss francs, or $6 Financial terms were not bers of the Lacoste family from billion at average exchange, and ON WWD.COM disclosed. three generations that make employs some 22,000 people. Parkview Green FangCaoDi in Beijing: A new complex, claiming to be one of China’s most environmentally friendly buildings, will house Stella McCartney, Karen Millen, COS and other stores. Hunter Boot Taps James Seuss as CEO For more, see WWD.com/retail-news. James Seuss Seuss said the brand would begin By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS opening stores in the Europe, [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. U.S. and Asia, and that he hopes WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. HUNTER BOOT LTD. has found to introduce the brand in China. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 204, NO. 89. MONDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, a new chief executive officer. “I haven’t yet mapped out a Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, The British rain-boot maker retail strategy, but we’re going March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: has tapped James Seuss as ceo to focus on expanding into key S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating and global president to take the cities and cold-weather cit- Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. brand to the next level. ies,” Seuss said, referring to Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6.POSTMASTER: SEND Seuss, who currently serves as New York, Chicago, London and ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, ceo of multibrand watch retailer Tokyo. call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For Tourneau LLC, will join Hunter in Seuss added that he would New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address December, and will be based in the bring Hunter’s luxe collection, within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied London office. Seuss will remain The Balmoral, which is only sold with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 on the board of Tourneau, which is in the U.K., to the U.S. market. Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all currently searching for a ceo. The upscale sporting boot, which request for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at “It’s been great to work at a multibrand envi- incorporates leather and rubber, is a more styl- www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub. com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services ronment, but I am looking forward to going back to ish version of Hunter’s signature boots. Bringing that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at the mono-brand world,” Seuss told WWD. “Hunter that collection here is part of a larger strategy to P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK is a heritage brand, too, so there are so many won- focus on upping the company’s fashion quotient, (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. derful things to communicate to the consumer.” Seuss said. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, Hunter has positioned itself for expansion “We will continue to push the fashion piece AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. since its controlling shareholder, Searchlight of Hunter and the design team will announce Capital Partners LP, came on board last a creative director soon,” he said, adding that December. Since then, the private investment the company will also ramp up development in firm, which owns an undisclosed percentage in other categories, such as outerwear. the company, has been on the lookout for a ceo “We’re getting outerwear more widely dis- who would be able to increase Hunter’s pres- tributed and we’re making that a core part of the ence in existing and untapped markets. business,” Seuss said. “When you put on your Seuss has focused on that kind of brand Hunter boots, you want to put on your Hunter building during his two-and-a-half-year tenure jacket as well.” at Tourneau. The retail executive will also trade Footwear will still be at the core of the brand, off of his experience as ceo of Cole Haan, where and the company will likely further develop its he worked from 2006 to 2010 and his time at winter boot and seasonal shoe offering. More Harry Winston Diamond Corp., Gucci Group and fashion-inspired collaborations are also in the Tiffany & Co., where he held top management pipeline. In the past, Hunter teamed up with positions. Hunter marks a return to London for Jimmy Choo for a collaborative boot, for exam- Seuss, who oversaw Tiffany’s operations there ple. for several years and later served as ceo of While those partnerships will continue, Seuss Stella McCartney. stressed an adherence to Hunter’s 156-year her- Hunter is known for its signature rubber itage, which is built on handmade, vulcanized Wellington rain boots, and also produces outer- rubber boots. wear and other accessories. The brand, which “There’s no real clear competitor for Hunter,” reported sales of 78 million pounds, or $26 mil- he said. “It has a great combination of being lion in 2011, doesn’t have any retail stores, with fashion forward and also creating a great prob- all its merchandise currently sold via wholesale. lem-solving product.” Tap Into the Industry’s Greatest Resource WWD. Whenever. Wherever.

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From left: Honor’s silk, nylon and metal jacket and silk blouse and skirt; Casadei for Prabal Gurung shoes. Bibhu Mohapatra’s silk and cotton dress; Helmut Lang shoes. Haus Alkire’s silk organza dress with leather collar; Nicole Miller shoes.

Kaleidoscopic Cool

PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2012 5 WWD.COM

From left: Helmut Lang’s polyester and nylon jacquard dress, Clover Canyon’s neoprene dress and M Missoni’s silk dress. MERCER EMILY ASSISTANT: FASHION ADRIANA DECERVANTES; CABIRIA ROSADO; PHOTO ASSISTANT: GROUP; MAKEUP BY THE WALL SEIJI AT FOR TRUMP; HAIR BY FOR MUSE; JEANNE IMG; MARTA MODELS: LORENE

MIRROR, MIRROR ON THE WALL, WHO’S THE COOLEST OF THEM ALL? KALEIDOSCOPE PRINTS MAKE FOR SOME OF SPRING’S MOST EXCITING LOOKS. 6 WWD monday, october 29, 2012 East Coast Retail Braces for Sandy

{Continued from page one} This week isn’t a critical sales period, though the storm has already impacted Halloween-related sales. The shortfall could be made up through sales of clean- Workers ready Bergdorf up equipment, canned foods, candles, Goodman for the hurricane. bottled water and other disaster and sur- vival-related items. Two-hundred National Guard soldiers were on duty in New York City. New York Gov. Andrew Cuomo said the state re- sponse included a total of 1,175 soldiers and airmen, as well as 900 high-axle trucks ready to navigate flood waters and 11 Black Hawk helicopters. New York area subway, bus and com- muter railroad service was scheduled to be suspended as of 7 p.m. on Sunday, com- plicating the start of the work week and the normal flows in and out of the city. Big retailers say they have the protocols in place to deal with the massive storm. Warnings from weather forecasters grew ominous as the storm approached with the looming possibility of not only flooding and high winds, but downed trees and power lines, blackouts, snow and ice. “Sears has an all-hazards emergency management program which responds to any natural or man-made disaster,” said Jim Waldrop, manager for corporate cri- sis and emergency operations. “We are very, very prepared. You can’t predict ex-

actly what will happen.” ericksen kyle

The company operates a crisis com- by mand center at its corporate headquar-

ters that sends out daily communications photos to employees. In place are both flood risk and hurricane-preparedness pro- to deal with hurricanes. In advance of to areas hit by disaster. Taubman Centers said, “At all of our grams that are reviewed annually before natural disasters, Sears readies trailers Among the other emergency proce- centers we have a series of emergency Mother Nature strikes. The programs to evacuate merchandise; establishes dures at Wal-Mart: communicating with management protocols that are initiated are geared to make sure Sears stores a hotline for associates to find out the store managements and associates to re- based on the current and forecasted con- are equipped with materials to board status of stores, and has an emergency mind them of emergency procedures and ditions. We are in regular contact with up windows and protect the property, contact list. The retailer will also obtain what to do before and after the storm, local emergency-management officials including sump pumps, back-up genera- assessments from field leaders on status including store closing procedures, and to ensure we have the latest information tors, sandbags and even flood gates in of associates. maintaining an associate hotline so they on any weather situation. Our decision to certain locations. “We try to stay open as long as pos- can check the status of stores. remain open or closed is driven by these Waldrop said that Sears has a third- sible to support our customer base, but “The number-one priority is to take protocols and the information we have, party vendor that provides disaster re- safety is paramount,” said Waldrop. He care of the associates,” Gee said. After with the safety and security of our ten- sponse and recovery. Waldrop himself also said that in the past, Sears has met that, it’s all about getting the stores back ants and customers top of mind.” leads conference calls with regional with Target and other retailers to “share up and running and helping the commu- Among the steps that Macy’s Inc. takes vice presidents and other field officials and exchange best practices” for coping nity, she added. is making sure the exteriors of stores are to walk them through what’s required with Mother Nature. “We are proactive about this. We clear of anything that could blow around, At Wal-Mart, “We put in a lot of protocols that antici- and making sure internal communica- are closely monitor- pate many different scenarios,” said a tions systems are in place to reach em- ing the storm path and spokeswoman for Ann Inc., which oper- ployees if needed. preparing our stores ates the Ann Taylor and Loft specialty At Target, “The safety and well-be- and [warehouse] clubs chains. Ann Inc. has already been send- ing of our team members and commu- as much as possible ing e-mails to employees at its stores nities is a top concern,” said a spokes- to follow all evacu- and New York headquarters updating woman. “In the event of any major ation orders,” said the storm’s trajectory. The company, storm, Target helps prepare our team Dianna Gee, a Wal- like many other retailers, has an emer- before the storm hits and acts after- Mart spokeswoman. gency hotline for employees to get infor- wards to provide the specific resourc- “We will close stores mation on store closings and openings es the community needs to recover. and clubs with enough and how to get help. Currently we are preparing our stores time for everyone to The company also has in place a in the path of the storm by supplying seek shelter.” “business continuity planning team” essentials such as batteries and dry With Hurricane that moves swiftly into action when any food. In addition, we are taking the Sandy, “We have kind of natural or man-made disaster necessary steps to ensure that after the about 800 stores, strikes. Its first objective is to determine storm, in the event of power loss, per- clubs and distribution the safety and whereabouts of associates, ishable items are replenished quickly.” centers that could be and if they require help, and to reach out — With contributions from impacted. We monitor to local authorities for rescue efforts. shAron EDELson, Kristi ELLis AnD the evacuation routes The second objective is to determine JEssicA irEDALE and pay attention to the needs of stores along these the stores in routes,” so they’re terms of re- stocked to meet disas- pairs and re- ter demands. plenishments. Wal-Mart accel- The BCP team erates deliveries of is cross-func- shovels, generators, tional, involv- water, canned foods, ing officials in flashlights, gasoline communica- containers, ice chests, tions, security, candles, cleanup sup- facilities, and plies and chain saws, human re- among other items, sources. Ann and has several “di- Inc. also has saster distribution an associates Traffic was slow outside centers” outside the assistance Bloomingdales’ 59th Street storm path so the in- program. flagship on Sunday. ventories are in good A spokes- shape and ready to go woman for Uniqlo closed its New York stores early Sunday.

w29a006b.indd 6 10/28/12 3:31 PM 10282012153157 3x7 (right)

WWD monday, october 29, 2012 7 WWD.COM AHQ Acquires Asics Gets Interactive for New York City Marathon Hayden-Harnett displays — the size of two sound room has been installed into the company’s special By JEAN E. PALMIERI football fields — and 20 instal- that allows users to trigger vari- marathon-themed apparel, lations within the station de- ous sounds of the race through which ranges from base layers, By RAchEL sTRuGATz AsIcs hAs EMbRAcEd a mul- signed to “excite people of the 40 motion-actived buttons. T-shirts and shorts to jackets. timedia approach with a multi- city who commute and act as a There’s also a display with a “We’re prepared to get every- hAYdEN-hARNETT has new tude of interactive elements to memorial for runners.” “shadow runner” that will be one through the race whether owners. promote the ING New York city For the first time this year, activated by people walking by, there’s snow, sleet or if it’s The seven-year-old brand Marathon this year. Asics partnered with electro- as well as marathon-inspired hot,” scott said. was acquired for an undis- The company, which has funk duo chromeo to create a artwork, including a mural with The 43rd edition of the race closed sum by AhQ-Accessory been the apparel and foot- special marathon-themed track the names of all 47,000 regis- to be run on Nov. 4 will draw headquarters, LLc, the firm wear sponsor of the race for that includes everything from tered runners. an estimated 47,000 runners which owns Kooba, V couture the 15th consecutive year, has a police siren and a cowbell to The installation will remain and two million spectators. by Kooba, Yak Pak and Go!sak. transformed the columbus a cheering section, scott said. in the station until Nov. 19. It’s also the largest race Asics Formerly Accessory Network circle subway station — which The track will be available free Asics has also created a sponsors. “This is our super Group, the company became is near the finish line in on iTunes starting Tuesday to special edition of its Gel- bowl,” scott said. The compa- AhQ in January after Wiesner central Park — into a “mara- the first 2,620 people, and Asics Kayano 19 running shoe for ny also just signed on to spon- Products, Inc. bought a por- thon experience.” According will make a donation of $2,620 the race with a liner that sor the Los Angeles Marathon tion of ANG. to shannon scott, director of to a children’s charity in New shows the race course. The in March and is involved with “The following that this marketing for Asics America, York city. shoe, which features a purple the Pittsburgh and big sur, brand has is what intrigued there are 600 linear feet of In the subway station, a and yellow color scheme, ties calif., races.  us about it. They have a very strong following in the social media world and a very strong Web business,” Abe chehebar, president of AhQ, told WWd of hayden-harnett joining its roster of handbag companies. “The aesthetic is unique and has its own dNA. We found it very interesting and something that we can market. It’s about getting more people turned on to the brand and expanding the distribution.” designer and creative direc- tor Toni hacker said she would like to double the size of the company within the next two to three years. she projects the line will grow to $10 million in this time, from $5 million now, fueled primarily by bolstering the wholesale component of the business. The brand has closed its stand-alone store in brooklyn and has moved all operations to AhQ’s office here. during the transition phase, the line has put its wholesale business on hold (it was once carried at retailers such as Anthropologie and Nordstrom), but hacker plans to continue an e-com- merce business at haydenhar- nett.com, which will see a rede- sign on Nov. 1. The site will still carry be- spoke scarves and the slightly more expensive collection handbags, all made in the u.s. and retailing from $475 to $950 (the main collection ranges from $238 to $650 and is pro- duced in china). For spring, the digital flagship will carry the main line as well, which will also see a relaunch with “friendlier” price points. Wholesale is where she’s fo- cusing on going forward for both lines, as AhQ will be able to help hayden-harnett leverage larger orders for retailers. “[We really] only had a very strong direct-to-customer business, and we saw that re- ally ramp up over the last five years since 2007. It became a bit stronger. We’ve never really gone into major retailers, so it’s a pretty wide-open avenue,” hacker said. during February market, the brand will show its first full collection since joining the AhQ umbrella, but select styles from the upcoming summer capsule collection will be avail- able on the site upon its reveal next week. “I am so ready — everything is really hyper-intense color for spring summer,” hacker said, revealing that in addition to a lot of textured leathers, offer- ings will be full of bright blue, red, violet and magenta.

w29a007a;6.indd 7 10/26/12 6:17 PM 10262012181849 8 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2012 Women at Work: Fashion

Tor y Burch Karen Katz Rose Marie Bravo EICHNER STEVE JOHN CALABRESE BY PHOTO PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY PHOTO BY

{Continued from page one} ership roles, but an executive By nature, women are better the board seats in fashion. logged a 10.4 percent return on Several leading females in the suite that’s broadly diverse. jugglers than men. That I will “Women have been fairly invested capital from 2004 to fashion world said women some- Grossman recalled being the say definitely.” stalled at about 15 percent of the 2008, as opposed to a 6.5 percent times limit their own careers by only woman at a meeting with 40 But there remain structural board seats [in the Fortune 500] return for companies with all- not shooting high enough. people while she worked at Nike issues within companies that pre- for the better part of a decade,” male boards. Return on sales and “Women need to start taking a Inc., which she praised as gener- vent women from getting the plat- Koplovitz said. “It’s not that we return on equity were also better stand and not being scared,” said ally embracing diversity. “‘Guys, form they need to strut their stuff. aren’t moving forward [gener- at firms with boards that included Tory Burch, ceo of Tory Burch you might want a couple more of Ceo’s are chosen by boards of ally]. There’s no real reason that at least three women directors. LLC. “The word ‘ambition’ should me,’ she recalled saying. ‘I don’t directors, which are predomi- we can’t go faster because women The research shows broad not be a four-letter word. It’s speak for all women, I’m giving nantly male. Men are seen as are at the right place in the work- trends, but does not establish something I think women should you one point of view.’” more likely to know, identify force, they’re in management cause and effect. Indeed, grow- embrace. There’s been something There are also opportunities with and promote other men. roles, they’re in technology roles, ing a business requires a certain of a stigma to that word.” for women executives to connect Many companies also want to they have the experience.” alchemy that includes any num- It’s a double bind: women get ber of factors, including who labeled as too abrasive if they runs the show. assert themselves or as not hav- “The success of any ceo or ing the right stuff to make it at THE CORPORATE LANDSCAPE FOR WOMEN any company is about the com- the top if they don’t. pany’s culture, integrity and vi- The conundrum is far from the POSITIVES NEGATIVES sion,” said Carol Meyrowitz, ceo only thing holding women back. of The TJX Cos. Inc. — the larg- ● ● “It’s not this overt sexual ha- Women hold just over half Women are not getting “stretch” est U.S. fashion company with a rassment or discrimination any- of all bachelor’s and master’s assignments to build experience. woman at the helm with sales of more,” said Jan Combopiano, degrees in the U.S. $23.2 billion. vice president and chief knowl- ● Boards of directors “Whether the ceo is male edge officer at Catalyst. “But the or female, great performance ● primarily male. underlying system that’s in place, There are more women happens when the team works together to grow the business,” people have been definitely inat- leaders as role models. ● tentive to fixing that system. It’s Inertia: the imbalance in the work Meyrowitz said. “I have always really going to take champions, ● Diversity becoming more place is ingrained and will likely believed that any job should go people who are willing to put take concerted effort to change. to the most qualified person, re- themselves out there and say the important in recruitment. gardless of other factors.” system isn’t working.” Elaine Hughes, president So even women with the of executive search firm E.A. drive to excel in the corporate Hughes & Co., said women are setting are going to need some with customers in a way that stock their boards with for- Education does not appear to making headway in the industry, help from without to correct the perhaps men can’t. mer ceo’s, limiting the pool of be the stumbling block. Women with many running divisions of c-suite imbalance. “I can certainly appreciate women candidates. 25 and older hold 51.6 percent large firms. “The only way it’s going to the multiple roles that women The corporate world and of all bachelor’s degrees, 55.2 “Most publicly traded com- change is if the people at the have to play these days and fashion get better marks when it percent of the master’s degrees panies have been making a con- top say, ‘We’re going to make a that is somewhat different than comes to the makeup of boards of and 37.6 percent of the doctoral certed effort to recruit for diver- change,’” said Mindy Grossman, men,” said Karen Katz, presi- directors, though: 17.9 percent of degrees in the U.S., according to sity,” Hughes said. “Companies ceo of television shopping firm dent and ceo of The Neiman board seats among Fortune 500 re- the Census Bureau. ask for documentation that the HSN Inc. “If you don’t have Marcus Group Inc. tailers are filled by women, versus There is some evidence that research has included a diverse senior women at the top and Female ceo’s might have a 16.1 percent overall, Catalyst said. diversity in the boardroom ulti- candidate pool.” you’re not populating your leg up in other regards as well. WWD’s study of 38 fashion compa- mately falls to the bottom line. And the world has become ranks, if you will, it’s not going “I’m a wife, I’m a mother and nies found that 24.5 percent of the Fortune 500 companies with more open to the idea of female to happen by osmosis.” I’m a ceo and to achieve the ceo directors were women. at least three women board mem- leaders, like Secretary of State Grossman said it’s the ceo [part] I’ve had to juggle a lot of Still, Kay Koplovitz, chair- bers outperform firms with no Hillary Clinton and German and the chairman’s responsibil- things,” Katz said. “I am a truly man of Fifth & Pacific Cos. Inc., female directors, according to chancellor Angela Merkel. ity to make sure a company does better juggler than my male col- said there’s no good reason Catalyst. Companies with three “The globalization of media not only have women in lead- leagues out there who are ceo’s. women shouldn’t occupy half or more women board members and access to limitless informa- WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2012 9 WWD.COM n’s Glass Ceiling Prevails

Mindy tion has allowed young people when she had her baby boy last Grossman to understand that there are month and many thought the at- choices,” Hughes said. tention was unwarranted and Still, the workplace dynamic unfair given that it’s rarely news is not the only obstacle women when a male ceo becomes a fa-

face while climbing the corpo- ther. Mayer also took the con- rate ladder. troversial step of taking only 11 Kay Krill, president and ceo days of maternity leave. at Ann Inc., said young women Being ceo, though, is a 24-7 “absolutely have to have a strong job that simply crowds out other support system at home to contin- parts of one’s life.

ue to advance their careers, they “Whether male or female, WOMEN AT THE TOP need the right setup at home and to rise to the top today, it’s a the right setup at work….That is game of sacrifice, it’s a game of

absolutely the biggest issue.” compromise,” said Rose Marie THE PERCENTAGE Krill established an emer- Bravo, former Burberry ceo gency day-care center at the and a director at Tiffany & Co. OF FORTUNE 500 company. She also tries to lead and the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. RETAILERS LED·· BY by example. “I walk the walk “First of all, you have to want it WOMEN CEO’S. here,” she said. “I have not so bad. Yo u have to have the pas-

missed one of my children’s sion. And you’re going to give up plays or concerts.” things along the way, either sex 1.7% Krill acknowledged she had [will], as you devote yourself to, live-in help for her twin boys let’s just say, ‘Big Time’ career.” and that there are very definitely Bravo said there are more ex- work-life trade-offs for executives. amples of high-profile and suc- ·· “I don’t think anybody can cessful women and that girls are have it all,” Krill said. “I think picking up the skills they need to women and men have to focus aspire to reach great heights. RESEARCH CATALYST SOURCE: on what they want to have.” “Women need the support, really learned at a time when This concept of having it all they also need the tools, they we’re non-verbal, so it’s not as — a perhaps magical balance of need to know how to play cer- if we can articulate the confu- If you don’t have outsized success in both the cor- tain games,” Bravo said. “Men sion sometimes. Our conscious, porate and personal spheres — have always been better at game rational mind does the best it is a recurrent theme when the play, because you guys have can, but it can’t always com- senior women at topic of female ceo’s comes up. done sports all your lives. Yo u pete with the unconscious… Yahoo Inc. ceo Marissa Mayer have girls now who are very ac- expectations we have.” the top and you’re made her share of headlines tive in sports. I’m positive that Each generation seems to this next generation [of women] make a little more progress, not populating will see a big push forward.” although the statistics show The path forward for the there’s a long way to go be- I can certainly appreciate the multiple next generation is likely to be a fore anything like workplace your ranks…it’s not jagged one. equality is reached. roles that women have to “Even young people still “Gen-Y women do enter the going to happen feel sort of confused and have workforce really confident of to sort out gender role expecta- their ability to do whatever they by osmosis. play these days. tions,” said Kit Yarrow, a con- want to do,” Yarrow said. “They — KAREN KATZ, sumer psychologist at Golden also don’t have the gender issues — MINDY GROSSMAN, Gate University who has written that other generations do. They HSN INC. THE NEIMAN MARCUS GROUP INC. about Gen-Y. “They exist so deep look at men as equals and they in the unconscious and they’re expect to be treated equally.”

Carol Meyrowitz Kay Koplovitz Kay Krill

·· GEORGE LANGE PHOTOGRAPHY ·· PHOTO BY 10 WWD monday, october 29, 2012 DailyCandy Launches Scout App

By Lisa Lockwood God Bless Us, daiLycandy, the multiplatform women’s digital media company, on Thursday unveiled dailycandy scout, a free mobile app for the Every Shopper iPhone, iPad and iPod Touch that enables consumers to become rov- ing real-time dailycandy contribu- “TwELVE MiLLion unemployed in Black Friday. at least that afforded time tors. scouts will be able to spot this country. People should consider for non-parade duty employees to enjoy and share their local discoveries. themselves lucky to have jobs.” the turkey fest, engage (or not) in family in addition, a group of about 80 of so offered a wwd colleague imag- political feuds, watch football, clean the dailycandy’s favorite designers, ining the general mind-set of corpo- kitchen and take a rest before heading boutique owners, chefs, TV talent rate america regarding its workforce. out to work. (david told me that years and influential bloggers will join the He made the remark in a meeting on ago he asked Macy’s then-chairman Ed dailycandy scout society, contribut- Friday, a daily sit-down during which Finkelstein if he would consider open- ing their personal discoveries via we review the day’s paper and discuss ing on Thanksgiving to monetize the pa- the new app. among those who have the next day’s tentative lineup. The trig- rade crowds; Finkelstein said that would joined the society are Elizabeth ger topic was Lord & Taylor’s decision be disrespectful to his employees.) olsen, Lauren Moffatt, clare Vivier, to open for business on Thanksgiving Business remains tough. Retailers Jeannie Mai and kara Laricks. day. This led to a hearty discussion on faced with the hard reality of making scout users can snap a photo, the pros and cons of hawking high-end their numbers constantly refine and in- add a caption and upload their merch on probably the most widely cel- tensify their strategies. and surely, if you finds in real time. Editors will ebrated of U.s. holidays. open it, they will come, from nonobser- also introduce several challenges Retail editor david Moin broke the vant tourists to those seeking novelty, an each week, such as ““Flaunt Those story, including a source’s assertion that uncrowded store or a shot at a 10-second kicks” or “demonstrate your Good “Lord & Taylor wouldn’t do it if they spot on ny 1. still, there’s something Jeans.” scouts who submit the most didn’t have the associates perversely let-them-eat-cake unique finds will have the chance to volunteer.” so did Lord & about one of new york’s laud- to get direct feedback from editors, DailyCandy is launching DailyCandy Scout, a new Taylor engage an indepen- ed high-end flagships making win prizes and have their discov- mobile app that crowdsources trend-spotting. dent research house to sur- so drastic a move that sets dis- eries spotlighted in dailycandy’s vey those employees most turbing precedent for others. e-mail newsletter and video series, in the app experience. The scout with the likely to be impacted? To my it’s about greed. Period. and on its web site and social media best eye for capturing a candid fashion colleague’s 12-million un- not that greed is all bad. Just platforms such as Facebook, Twitter, pose will win a $500 H&M shopping trip. employed point, in this eco- about everyone affiliated with Pinterest and Tumblr. Fernando Romero, vice president of nomic climate, if the hon- the fashion industry buys into key dailycandy marketing part- sales at dailycandy, said dailycandy scout chos had hit the selling floor the virtues of greed to some ners will be invited to cocreate scout will help marketers monetize mobile. and stockroom in search of degree. if greed didn’t perco- challenges that showcase new products dailycandy, which has a community volunteers to man high-end late amply, i wouldn’t be here and brand experiences. H&M has signed of more than six million users, is a unit umbrella stands on the west Bridget Foley ’s writing this, you wouldn’t be on as the launch sponsor, promoting the of nBcUniversal’s Entertainment & side Highway during today’s Diary there reading it, and fashion “scout That street style” challenge with- digital networks and integrated Media. storm, chances are excellent and luxury as we know them they’d have found them. wouldn’t exist. i understand working on holidays. as But one would hope within that real- an ob-gyn in single practice, my father ity exists a twinge of respect — genuine was on call every holiday of his working respect, not cursory or mandated — for life, and missed many a Thanksgiving and the working population. Labor unions christmas dinner. His absence was essen- rose to great power in this country for Experience. It counts. tial. (The nobility of purpose didn’t make one reason — abusive employers. while the holiday any easier on his wife, the one cannot compare “volunteer” holiday mother of seven.) ditto all of the health- duty to working under unsafe conditions care workers, cops, firemen, daily media and with no job security, etc., it indicates and other essential service providers a management psyche indifferent to the who will report to work on Thanksgiving. human side of employment. on the day nonessential services and enter- once set aside to celebrate the labor tainment enterprises have a long his- force, shopping has become as ingrained tory of operating on holidays as well. an option as a backyard picnic or hitting Restaurants, hotels, museums, movie the beach. now Thanksgiving. office em- theaters, Broadway, the nFL, they’re ployees — finance, sales, dentist, p.r., you all open for duty. while their employees name it — won’t clock in on Thanksgiving; must clock in at the expense of their own the suggestion would appall (at least for family/friends/whatever time, at least, now). How did service employees, partic- ularly those in retail, get segregated into a working class not entitled to holidays? never mind that on the As a society, we’ve very next day, they will enter the most hectic, stressful month of their employment year, of late with newly crossed over to extended hours. western literature’s most re- nowned telling of employee abuse Milberg Factors is proud to celebrate our 75th anniversary. Since opening our doors Ebenezer-ville with focuses on the misfortune of a poor, intimidated bookkeeper forced in 1937, we’ve remained independent, family-owned, and focused on meeting our to work on christmas day. His clients’ needs. barely a murmur. nasty boss’ mind-set impacts not only Bob cratchit, but the whole Our business today is larger and more sophisticated, but our commitment cratchit clan. from the consumer standpoint, the end as a society, we’ve crossed over to to service hasn’t changed. We blend an entrepreneurial spirit with personal purpose is about something other than Ebenezer-ville with barely a murmur. attention. We build strong relationships, creating factoring and financing solutions wanton commercialism. The same can’t in our Friday meeting, some editors that are right for each client, and make sure that we’re there when you need us. be said about shopping, the social ele- took to explaining why a retailer might ment of collateral consideration at best. want to open on Thanksgiving. i get it; To all our clients, thank you for placing your trust in us. We look forward to helping Lord & Taylor is hardly the first retail- the aforementioned numbers, numbers, er to open for business on holidays. drug, numbers. Even given that motivation, you to succeed for many years to come. grocery and convenience stores have long there’s no reason for brick-and-mortar done so. Last year, so too did wal-Mart underwear shopping on Thanksgiving; and kmart. in those cases, executives if aunt Mary works your nerves, retire could claim necessary consumer service to your room and shop online. as their primary motivation — “oops! The decision by fashion retailers Milberg Factors, Inc. Forgot the cranberry sauce!” — even if and other purveyors of purely discre- once upon a time, people had to remem- tionary goods to open on Thanksgiving A TRADITION OF ENTREPRENEURIAL FINANCE ber what they’d forgotten a day earlier. suggests a shocking want of respect for Gap inc., too, preceded Lord & its most important employees, those in Taylor’s cross over to the dark side the trenches who work and support the www.milbergfactors.com when various of its concerns conducted selling floor. in the pre-reformation jar- ©2012 Milberg Factors, Inc. Thanksgiving business last year. and gon of that famous holiday-hater, it’s a Macy’s opened its doors at midnight on humbug of an attitude.

w29a010(12)a.indd 10 10/28/12 3:24 PM 10282012152539 2x5 (left) 2.5x7 (right)

WWD monday, october 29, 2012 11 WWD.COM innerwear Seven Bar Foundation La Perla Outlines Plan Going Forward with Italian suppliers. Distribution will in- Hosts Show in London By LUISA ZARGANI creasingly be aimed at regions where luxury is growing the most, such as Asia, Russia, Eastern The Agent Provocateur MILAN — Just as La Perla workers are ex- Europe, Latin America and top cities in the U.S. By SAMANTHA CONTI looks were paired with shoes pected to gather for a protest in Bologna today and Europe. La Perla opened five stores globally from a new collaboration with over potential job cuts, the innerwear company last year, but accelerated its retail distribution LONDON — The Seven Bar Charlotte Olympia. The Candice issued a note to the press last week to outline in 2012 with the unveiling of 24 units. The firm Foundation made its London and Bellatrix platforms were its expansion plans and assure production will plans to open 26 units in 2013. debut last week, staging a char- available to purchase straight remain in Italy. The second major priority for JH Partners ity fund-raiser in the British cap- off the runway on Net-a-porter. La Perla said it has initiated a turnaround pro- is to launch the diffusion Studio La Perla label ital with runway shows by Agent com, and afterward at Charlotte cess in order to develop and protect its future and through a single-brand network of boutiques Provocateur and Atsuko Kudo. Olympia and Agent Provocateur to improve efficiencies with the aim of staying in with a new concept. The first two units will The charity aligns itself retail stores. Italy, “which will continue to have a central role open between December and January in Italy. with lingerie firms in order to both in planning and producing collections.” In the next three years, the owners plan to open raise money for microfinance Chief executive officer Tim Brasher has told 160 news sales points globally for La Perla and to help impoverished women The Seven Bar unions that the brand’s owner, private equity fund Studio La Perla. set up businesses. In the past, JH Partners, has earmarked yearly investments The third item on the agenda is that the owners Seven Bar has staged fund- of about 4 million to 5 million euros, or $5.2 mil- are aiming at reducing operating costs and gain- raisers in New York, Miami, Foundation lion to $6.5 million at current exchange, with the ing efficiency in all production sites and Brasher Paris and Shanghai. goal of relaunching the brand globally. “La Perla has presented a plan to the unions to this end. In “Europeans definitely do it aligns itself with is and intends to continue as a symbol of Made in 2012, the company will continue to report oper- better,” gushed Renata Mutis Italy in the world,” said the company, explaining ating losses but management expects the bottom Black as she took to the runway lingerie firms that, since 2008, JH Partners has invested about line to improve next year. La Perla is expected to at Old Billingsgate, the cavern- 50 million euros, or $64.9 million, and plans to close 2012 with a loss of 5 million euros, or $6.5 ous former fish market in east continue supporting La Perla’s expansion. San million. Last year, revenues totaled 113.2 million London, as the gala evening got in order to raise Francisco-based JH Partners acquired full con- euros, or $157.3 million at average exchange. underway. “This is the biggest trol of La Perla Group in October 2008 As part of the reorganization of the group, thrill of my life to put this show money to help Last month, JH Partners told WWD it had La Perla has “opened an unemployment pro- together — it’s ladies’ night.” no intention of selling either La Perla or lux- cedure for 309 people in Bologna,” said the Guests at the Lingerie London impoverished ury home accessories, bedding and lounge- firm. Of this figure, 230 are already under a event were mostly industry fig- wear brand Frette Srl, which it also controls. government-funded leave. La Perla has a total ures, including Marigay McKee, However, JH Partners added that La Perla is of about 600 workers. chief merchant at Harrods, and women set up open to a financial partnership. The firm’s management has “declared its Sebastian Manes, buying direc- The plan, “already in an advanced stage, is availability to cooperate with unions to find the tor of women’s wear at Selfridges. businesses. based on three pillars,” including the position- more suitable solutions to minimize the social The Irish actor and comedian ing of La Perla “as a global luxury brand, inter- impact,” concluded the company. A new series Chris O’Dowd and his wife Dawn nally developed in Bologna,” and in partnership of meetings with the unions will kick off today. Porter, a British TV presenter, Ten percent of all sales of also attended. the night were earmarked for Atsuko Kudo, which special- the charity. izes in Latex designs, staged a Pieces from the new show of its pieces, which were Empowered by You lingerie col- the intimate apparel council presents paired with Nicholas Kirkwood lection also had a moment on platform shoes. the runway, with seven models Agent Provocateur staged a showing off the designs. The an innovative peek into intimate apparel theatrical show starting with collection is the first branded dancers dressed in skimpy product to be created by the army uniforms and later featur- Seven Bar Foundation. It fea- ing Marie Helvin, Olivia Inge tures second-skin Brazilian-cut Monday, November 5, 2012 2012 Intimate Apparel Council Member Companies and Peaches Geldof wearing thongs, with 20 percent from the Union League Club lingerie and saucy nightwear sale of each panty to be donated from the brand. to The Seven Bar Foundation. 38 East 37th Street • New York, NY 24 Seven Inc. The Bromley Group, LLC 5:00—5:30 PM • Cocktails & Networking Buơalo State College 5:30—6:30 PM • Presentation Carole Hochman Design Group Chantelle Lingerie, Inc. Chelsea Design Group Featured Speaker: Cuddl Duds Eileen West Fashion Forms Ken Walker Gelmart Industries Operating Partner – Innovation Hanky Panky Hanro USA, Inc. Marvin Traub Associates Intertek Invista Jockey International, Inc. Komar Company Join the Intimate Apparel Council (IAC) for its Ƥnal Lectra meeting of the year. The November presentation will Maidenform, Inc. feature Ken Walker, Operating Partner of TRAUB, for Nilit America Rago Foundations LLC his presentation titled “Innovative Peek at Intimate Spotless Enterprises Apparel.” Walker, a renowned industry leader in Wacoal retail design and brand building, will speak on the Warnaco Inc. importance of using innovation to achieve success in a Women’s Wear Daily global marketplace. Associate Members

Age Group Ltd. Annette International Barry Ross Intimate Connections Blush Lingerie La Lame, Exclusive Suppliers of Stretch Fabrics Cass & Co Clevis Bend HYP Intimate Nouvelle Seamless Pampered Passions Fine Lingerie STRETCH AND RIGID ALLOVER AND NARROW LACES, PVC LEATHER, SPACERS Simone Perele POWER MESH, MICROFIBER KNITS, METALLIC TULLE AND LACES, FOIL The Intimate Apparel Council (IAC) is a division of the GLITTER, FLOCK, EMBOSSING, BURNOUT PRINTS ON: MESH, TRICOT AND VELVETS American Apparel & Footwear Association. NOVELTY ELASTIC TRIM: METALLIC, SHEER RUFFLES, LACE, PRINTS AND RHINESTONES For IAC membership or program information, contact Heather McCue at 703.797.9061 or [email protected]

La Lame, Inc. Register today at www.wewear.org/events

w29a011a;5.indd 1 10/26/12 6:17 PM 10262012181849 12 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2012 WWD.COM

Rob Mulberry Celebrates Singapore Flagship Kardashian BEKOR

By KRISTIANO ANG GIULIANO BY

SINGAPORE — A kilt-wearing bagpipe PHOTO player marched around Mulberry’s new flagship here on Wednesday evening as a crowd of camera-wielding fans sur- rounded the store singing: “The boys, the girls, they all love Lana.” “Lana,” of course, was the American songstress and Mulberry ambassador Lana Del Rey. Dressed in a tiger-print wrap dress, she made a brief appear- ance at the 3,900-square-foot store’s ribbon-cutting ceremony. Post-costume change, into an ombré sequin dress, A look from Del Rey later performed at a private Arthur George. dinner by the Singapore River. MULBERRY

On Tuesday, Mulberry Group plc’s OF shares lost almost a quarter of their Rob Kardashian value after the company issued a profit warning on slowing demand among Mulberry in COURTESY the brand’s wholesale clients in Asia. Singapore. Socks It to You

Since then, the company’s shares have PHOTOS recovered slightly and trade near 10.5 pounds, or $16.60 at current exchange. Mulberry is 57 percent owned by “I would think Asians appreciate By JEAN E. PALMIERI “It is always disappointing to have Challice Ltd., which is controlled ‘Made in England’ more than anywhere to issue a profit warning, but we are on by Singaporean retail entrepreneur else,” she said. “They have [been ex- WHEN IT COMES TO the Kardashian fam- the right track,” said Bruno Guillon, Christina Ong. Her daughter sits on the posed so much to] ‘made in China’ that ily, Rob is the shrinking violet — at least by Mulberry’s ceo, in an interview in the company’s board as a non-executive they want to buy into something more.” Kardashian standards. limestone-tiled store. The boutique, director. “They are a long-term share- As it enters the retail market in “I’m the more low-key one,” he said, “but which opened its doors Wednesday, is holder, so we have the opportunity to China later than competitors like we’re all pretty loud.” located next to Paul Smith and Marc by build the brand on a long-term basis Burberry Group plc, Mulberry has had Early next month, Kardashian will be shout- Marc Jacobs doors. and, most importantly, do it properly,” difficulty acquiring desirable retail ing about his newest venture, Arthur George, The executive remained upbeat Guillon said. space in the country. “We want to be a collection of men’s socks that will launch at about the brand’s international expan- The executive said he sees the stag- located next to the best people, so that Neiman Marcus on Nov. 9. The retailer has the sion plans. Guillon said the less-than- nating global economy as an oppor- we can compete with the best,” said exclusive for two months, at which point distri- positive financial news would not affect tunity for the brand. “I don’t know if Guillon. “When the economy is boom- bution will be opened up. Women’s and juniors ing, landlords are open socks will be available online following the to talking about loca- Neiman’s exclusivity period. tions. In this market, “Socks are something I’ve always been they are more cautious, passionate about,” he said. “I have friends so it takes more time.” who own streetwear companies and they ask Mulberry, which has me to pick out anything I want and I only go one boutique there, will for the socks.” open three retail stores He said the name of the line is a blend- in China by April. ing of his own middle name, Arthur, and his “There is a lot of father’s, George. “I wanted to stay away from work to do [about edu- using my last name,” he said. “The label still cating] the middle class says it’s by Robert Kardashian, but I’m more in China about heritage comfortable if it doesn’t scream Kardashian and craftsmanship, at you. We don’t have to overkill everything but they are more than but, at the same time, you can’t get away aware about [Brand] from it. And Arthur George sounds classy.” Britain,” he said. The line of 100 percent Egyptian cotton Though Guillon socks, each pair of which will retail for $30, fea- said the company tures lively patterns and colors that were de- would offer custom- signed by the company’s in-house design team ers everywhere a con- and approved by Kardashian. “I tell them what The new store is 3,900 square feet. Lana Del Rey takes photos with fans inside the Singapore boutique. sistent retail experi- I’m envisioning and we work on it,” he said. ence, he acknowledged Kardashian, who has a business degree Mulberry’s plans to open 20 new retail people spend less, but they spend bet- the increasingly important role of the from the University of Southern California, stores in the year to April. The company ter,” he said. “So for us, recession is Chinese male consumer, who tends to is serious about making Arthur George a suc- operates 41 retail stores internationally. an opportunity.” spend heavily on accessories. To that cess and doesn’t look at it as just another ce- Currently 60 percent of Mulberry’s Alongside the pruning of certain end, Mulberry recently hired a dedicat- lebrity line. He’s busy trying to learn the ins revenue is still generated in the U.K., wholesale accounts, Mulberry is build- ed designer for men’s accessories. and outs of the business, from design and a figure Guillon expects to dip to 20 ing a second factory in Somerset, “In women’s accessories, there are manufacturing to sales. He hinted an apparel percent in five years as the company England. The plant, which will operate lots and lots of choices,” said Hill, who collection may not be far behind. “I’m keep- expands elsewhere. “We see opportu- at full capacity by February 2014, will indicated that future men’s accesso- ing that under wraps for now, but it would be nity everywhere,” he said. He cited the roughly double Mulberry’s production ries would see more use of gunmetal under a completely different name,” he said. small size of Mulberry’s Paris boutique capacity in Britain. and silver hardware, instead of just “Ralph Lauren started with ties and I and its limited number of stores in the Like Guillon, creative director antique brass. “We want to make it the want to emulate that,” he said. “But I’m U.S., where it operates six boutiques, Emma Hill hopes that provenance will same for men. We’re really expanding starting small and I don’t want to fail. And as examples of room for growth. prove a hit with Asian consumers. the breadth.” socks is where it begins.”

WHERE TITANS OF INDUSTRY TALK

@wwdsummits Fairchild Summits wwd.com/summits STARS ALIGN: Bella Heathcote was among the crowd at the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Los Angeles runway WWD STYLE show. PAGE 14

PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER

Dream Tea m NEW YORK — Fashion Group International’s New York gala had a “dream catchers” theme this year, which provided plenty of material for those in front of the microphone. As for what mobile phone shenanigans presenter Karl Lagerfeld displayed that had a L’Wren Scott-clad Sarah Jessica Parker and honoree Haider Ackermann cracking up, the rest of us will have to, well, dream on. For more, see page 14.

survey was conducted in 2010, leather jackets: cream (by Ralph pour hommes” collection, shortly

MEMO PAD technology ownership among the Lauren and one by Carolina before Dior’s untimely death in SARL women surveyed has advanced, Herrera), black (Coach), brown, 1957 put an end to the project. PAPER POWER: Monthly glossy and 42 percent would be very so it is not accurate to say she is Nissen, who is the beneficiary magazines still exert a significant happy to make consumer always wearing the same jacket of Gruau’s estate, said the artist influence on British women aged purchases through their mobile on air,” he wrote over e-mail. showed a different facet of his 16 to 40, according to a…glossy devices. Social networking has Upon a review of Brown’s TV personality in his portraits of magazine. But the numbers seem also grown in importance: In appearances, the spokesman men.“The women he drew were to back up the claim: Glamour 2010, 65 percent of those polled was proven correct. With her all about seduction, lightness GRUAURENÉ OF COURTESY magazine in the U.K. polled just were using Facebook. That figure reputation as a taskmaster, it is and glamor,” she said. “One gets under 4,000 individuals, and is has now jumped to 91 percent. no surprise Brown would be into the feeling that he is much more the first study to look into the Registered YouTube users have leather, if only on the tube. The assured when he paints men. He ways women’s behavior have grown from 55 percent to 88 burgundy jacket, by the way, is really loosens up.” changed following the last four percent, and Twitter users have Carolina Herrera. — ERIK MAZA The 260-page book, priced at years of financial disruption and leaped from 15 percent to 55 $95, is scheduled to go on sale the digital revolution. percent. — JULIA NEEL MASCU-LINE: René Gruau’s in the United States on Nov. The study, entitled “21st illustrations might be 9 at Assouline stores and on Century Woman 2012,” found that FAVORITE JACKETS: The Monday synonymous with French assouline.com. The launch will the vast majority of women polled after she revealed the closure glamour, but a new book from be accompanied by an exhibition A René Gruau illustration. are still regularly buying glossy of print Newsweek, Tina Brown Assouline spotlights his lesser- of Gruau’s drawings at the titles. Monthlies are regarded was on Charlie Rose wearing a known drawings of men. Pampaloni showroom in Miami much so, that at the end of the as 50 percent more influential familiar burgundy leather jacket. “Gruau Portraits of Men,” by from Dec. 3 to Feb. 15, designed experience, you will look so good than weekly magazines, T V, and In her leather duds, she had a Sylvie Nissen and Réjane Bargiel, to coincide with Art Basel Miami you will even fall in love with magazine Web sites, and almost certain Brando swagger, an “I’ll features his illustrations for Beach. — JOELLE DIDERICH yourself,” said Julia Bowe, group three times more powerful than survive this, too” defiance. She magazines including Club press and marketing director at free magazines and supplements. had already been grilled on the and Sir: Men’s International LOVE THYSELF: Harvey Nichols’ Harvey Nichols. Glossy monthlies were also digital upheaval by Howard Kurtz Fashion Journal, in addition new Beauty Bazaar opens The three photos, showing found to be the most trustworthy and the gang at “Morning Joe.” to advertising campaigns such next month in Liverpool, and women trying to kiss mirror source of information, and She has worn the jacket on as the controversial series for ahead of the launch, the store images of themselves, were were considered 78 percent TV often, so that it seemed this Christian Dior’s Eau Sauvage has released an advertising shot by Norbert Schoerner, and the more inspiring than any other was the one item of clothing in fragrance, featuring men in campaign that plays upon the campaign will appear on select medium. In terms of content, 79 her wardrobe she reached for varying states of undress. notion of becoming so beautiful outdoor sites around Liverpool percent of readers are visiting in times of duress, her leather In addition, a section that you fall in love with yourself. starting Nov. 12. The Beauty magazine Web sites, with more cloak of invincibility, her shield entitled “Gruau’s Sketchbooks” “We wanted to capture the Bazaar will be set across 22,000 than a fifth visiting those sites at against schadenfreude. But that showcases previously transforming nature of the in- square feet, on three floors, least every other day. is not the case, her spokesman unpublished clothing designs store experience and the notion in Liverpool’s fashion hub — Since the last time the pointed out. “She has several that he made for a planned “Dior of being the best you can be, so Liverpool One. — J.N. 14 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2012

FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/eye. L’Wren Star Catching Scott and Prabal Gurung IF FASHION Group Gareth Pugh, Annabelle Selldorf, James International had a prize Gager, Nicola Maramotti for Max for comic relief, it would no Mara’s Maramotti family and Jon doubt go to Neiman Marcus King of Tiffany & Co. Group’s Karen Katz this year. As in the past few years, the (Sorry, Simon Doonan, the Night lengthy speeches — Sarah Jessica of Stars’ longtime court jester Parker, Viola Davis and Glenda Bailey who nonetheless gets points for were among the presenters setting up Katz.) — made the night drag on, “I have been known to use a prompting another gem courtesy Neiman Marcus bag when I am of Humanitarian Award winner going to hyperventilate,” said Wynton Marsalis. “I am going to Katz at Thursday’s gala, where prove I am a humanitarian by she was an honoree. “But if I am not talking,” he said. going to be really sick, I pick up a Karl Lagerfeld arrived Saks Fifth Avenue bag.” fashionably late, around 9 p.m., in Katz was responding to time to hand Haider Ackermann his Viola Davis in Max Mara

Doonan’s opener, an amusing award, to thunderous applause. STEVE EICHNER tale of a twisted dream he had “Thanks for all this attention, but I with Nicola about a slumber party gone awry was not the first choice,” Lagerfeld Maramotti. at honoree L’Wren Scott’s house. told the crowd. “The first choice PHOTOS BY It started with his inability to was Tilda Swinton.” Ackermann was reach a 10-mile-high doorbell clearly moved by the accolade, and featured all the award thanking his team and Lagerfeld Carolina winners of the night, including in his speech. “As Yoko Ono said Herrera Katz and Superstar honoree once, ‘Dreaming a dream alone is Carolina Herrera. “Suddenly only a dream, dreaming a dream from behind me there came a together is reality.’ ” terrible rumbling sound and a With a theme like “dream cerise-colored Hummer crashed catchers,” the event gave some through the fence and came the opportunity to reflect barreling towards me,” Doonan on their aspirations. Renée said. “Carolina Herrera was Zellweger sat at Herrera’s table behind the wheel, driving toward with Patricia Lansing, Kelly Ripa, me in a homicidal fashion. ‘Stop,’ Mark Consuelos, Seth Meyers and I yelled. ‘Please don’t kill me.’ ” Alexi Ashe. Doonan’s subconscious Herrera, for her part, said she provided plenty of material — is still full of dreams. “I’ll let my hair down tonight “I think you never stop, Renée so you can climb up Rapunzel- because it’s a fantasy,” she said. Zellweger style,” Scott said — but not “And if you stop fantasizing, in Carolina Karen everyone took the bait. Other you’re kaput.” Herrera. Katz honorees included Derek Lam, — MARC KARIMZADEH

Mandy Moore in David Koma. Victoria Beckham and Baz Luhrmann Gwen Stefani

January Jones in Rachel Zoe Collection with Jennifer Aniston and Isla Fisher. Party Lines VESPA/WIREIMAGE JEFF OTHERS: ALL WIREIMAGE; eye SARDELLA/ AND MAGUIRE: DONATO STEFANI MOORE, HEATHCOTE, A HOLLYWOOD campaign Jennifer Aniston and producer started wearing Cushnie et Ochs, Bella Heathcote visit by Michelle Obama may have Joel Silver. A few seats down, who showed here last year.” in Prabal Gurung. been causing a traffic snarl on next to Anna Wintour and Victoria For company, Moss brought the Sunset Strip on Thursday, Beckham, was director Baz along her Stella McCartney- but at Chateau Marmont, a Luhrmann, whose upcoming “The clad mother, Linda, who helped slightly lower-stakes contest Great Gatsby” stars Maguire her spot the designers in the was happening at the annual and Fisher alongside Leonardo crowd. Another actress stalking CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Los DiCaprio and Carey Mulligan. the fashion talent was Bella Angeles runway show. “Are you going to make a Heathcote, who jumped up from This year’s finalists — A.L.C., movie about this?” one guest the miniature table where she Assembly New York, Giulietta, asked him. “Well, I think I was taking postshow tea with Illesteva, Jennifer Fisher, Jennifer already did, or at least it’s friends Mary Elizabeth Winstead Meyer, Suno, Tabitha Simmons, inspired many characters,” and Amanda Crew to bound up The Elder Statesman and Wes said Luhrmann of the fashion the parlor stairs to meet Andrea Gordon — were all starry-eyed show. “Anyway, there’s nothing Lieberman. “A.L.C. is one of my from the experience of being in more pleasurable than sitting favorite lines,” she told the Los Angeles and showing their in a beautiful garden watching stylist-turned-designer. clothes to a slew of stars that gorgeous clothes go by.” Gwen Stefani, one of included January Jones, Elisabeth Many of the guests had Lieberman’s former clients and Moss, Marisa Tomei, Emma Roberts their own agendas as well, a close friend, made a postshow and Mandy Moore. whether it was deal-making, appearance to congratulate her. Perhaps the exception industry schmoozing, or strictly Wes Gordon had a fan in Katy among the nominees was Meyer, clothes-related. Perry, who had several people who grew up in Hollywood “I always get ideas for the red sweating when she missed the and whose front-row cheering carpet here,” said veteran Emmy show but came in time for the Tobey Maguire and section included her father, nominee Moss. “I actually need photo op wearing one of his Jennifer Meyer NBC/Universal chief Ron Meyer, to meet designers who want me printed dresses. husband Tobey Maguire, Isla Fisher, to wear their clothes. It’s how I — MARCY MEDINA WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2012 15 WWD.COM

a Beaux Arts dead-ringer with sky-high partnership with Saks Fifth Avenue, ceilings and marble columns lining the hosted a cocktail party at Saks Beverly Fashion scoops perimeter. More likely than not, it was the Hills on Wednesday night. still from the film — a shot of Carola Remer “This is more my thing,” said Keener languidly leaning over a mirror, staring of book parties versus fashion parties, REBUTTAL: Forever 21 said Friday Bailey portrait of McQueen, leaping at her own visage — projected over the although the tome has more than its share that it has cooperated with the U.S. merrily in a kilt and sporran, that tables that drove the anticipation. of fashion images. The store’s third-floor Department of Labor by providing hangs at the entrance to the store. The short, featuring an assortment of designer section had been cleared out to information on its labor practices. Guests including Allen Leech of models (Remer, Codie Young, Jamie Strachan) make way for an art installation featuring The department, which disputes that “Downton Abbey,” Dominic Cooper, Luke and actors (Rebecca Dayan and Brady Corbet), framed images from each decade of the Forever 21 has been transparent Evans, Friendly Fires’ Ed Macfarlane, centers on a particularly alluring game magazine. “There are obviously thousands about labor matters, filed a legal Kristen McMenamy and Darwin Shaw partook of strip poker. “It’s definitely about the of images we couldn’t fit in the book,” said action in the U.S. District Court for of a stand-up feast of mini sausage buildup,” said Jenna Elizabeth, who directed Tonchi. “And we didn’t want to use too the Central District of California to rolls and Lincolnshire poacher rarebit the film, before taking her seat at the many party pictures, for example, because enforce a subpoena issued on Aug. 16 canapés, martinis, and other cocktails Black Book-hosted dinner. “There’s a lot that could be a whole other book. There to obtain such information about the with an English bent. — JULIA NEEL of sexually explicit activity.…But we were could be books just on fashion, on gossips, manufacturers and apparel contractors fair with the nudity. As a female director, I even on Kate [Moss].” As he was signing making Forever 21’s merchandise. was like, ‘We’re getting the boys naked in away, Keener asked, “Should I go over Ruben Rosalez, regional administrator this.’” — TAYLOR HARRIS there and help? Maybe do some hosting or for the Labor Department’s Wage presenting like the girls at car shows? It and Hour Division in the West, has FOR A CAUSE: Golf Digest is stepping up seems hard but I could learn.” described the Los Angeles-based to help Lacoste celebrate its new Miami After the cocktail event, Tonchi and retailer as working with “dozens of flagship — and raising awareness for the Keener adjourned to Spago for dinner manufacturers producing goods… First Tee at the same time. The First Tee, with an art-heavy crowd that included under sweatshoplike conditions.” a youth organization that promotes life Doug Aitken, Max Azria, Maria Bell, Eva Chow, A spokeswoman for Forever skills and leadership through golf, will be China Chow, Amanda de Cadenet, Atlanta de 21 responded that the company the beneficiary at an event the magazine Cadenet Taylor, Larry Gagosian, Kristin Carlson “shares the Department of Labor’s is hosting at the Lincoln Road store on Gore, Katherine Ross and Michael Govan, Lykke commitment to proper wage payment Nov. 19. The evening will honor LPGA Li, Craig McDean, Kate and Laura Mulleavy, Scott under the Fair Labor Standards Act. golfer and Lacoste ambassador Cristie Sternberg and Sharon Stone. — MARCY MEDINA To that end, Forever 21 promptly Kerr, who is among those featured in Golf responded to the department’s Digest’s December issue themed “Golfers VIVIENNE IS ASSANGE: Vivienne Westwood paid subpoena with information that Who Give Back.” a visit to Julian Assange at the Ecuadorian resulted in a full resolution of the Kerr, who also supports breast cancer Embassy in London on Wednesday to show matter under investigation. Forever initiatives, will be the guest of honor her support for the WikiLeaks founder. 21 also offered to meet with the at the Lincs on Lincoln event that will A spokesperson for the activist designer department and is surprised and feature a putting green, other golf-related confirmed the visit, saying that Westwood disappointed that the department activities, music and munchies. Although is selling T-shirts “in aid of the cause”, and declined to meet before filing this the guest list has not yet been finalized, directed WWD to ActiveResistance.co.uk, action but looks forward to working the magazine is expecting athletes from Westwood’s blog, called Get a Life. with them to address any issues.” the Miami Heat, Dolphins and Marlins to In a blog entry entitled “I Am Julian Unless the two parties can come Patrizio also turn out at the event. “When you mix Assange” that was posted on Thursday, to an agreement, the next step in the Bertelli Lacoste, Golf Digest, Cristie and Miami, Westwood writes, “T-shirts for Julian: you legal tussle is a court hearing. The you’re going to have more of a South can show your support of a real hero by date for that hearing has not been set. Beach experience than a Winged Foot going toviviennewestwood.com. Available — RACHEL BROWN The Prada-sponsored experience,” said Golf Digest publisher from Saturday, 3 November. Donations to AC 72 Luna Rossa. Peter Hunsinger. — JEAN E. PALMIERI Wikileaks have been blocked but 100% of STAR BLAZING: More than just a pretty T-shirt profits can help fund their work.” face, Drew Barrymore is apparently W’s BIG 4-0: To celebrate W magazine’s Assange has been living at the Embassy out to prove that she can create and 40th anniversary and the release of the since the summer, avoiding extradition market cosmetics, as well as wear Abrams book “W: The First 40 Years,” to Sweden, where he is wanted for it on camera. Since 2007, she has Stefano Tonchi and Catherine Keener, in questioning over sex offenses. — J.N. been a face of Procter & Gamble’s Cover Girl. But according to reports circulating in the market, the star’s P&G contract will end in January, and she intends to strike out on her own. Barrymore reportedly has created her own makeup line that will be retailed at Wal-Mart exclusively. Sources say she has been collaborating with the Italian-based Intercos, the leading LUNA LAUNCH: Miuccia Prada and Patrizio For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. supplier of color cosmetics, makeup Bertelli, team principal of Luna Rossa and skin care. Not only is this Challenge 2013 and chief executive the actress’ first foray into beauty officer of Prada SpA, christened with marketing, but industry sources Champagne the AC 72 Luna Rossa speculate that the project will be the catamaran on Friday in Auckland, Spaces first full makeup brand developed New Zealand, in a traditional bottle- from scratch exclusively for Wal-Mart. breaking ceremony. The Prada- COMMERCIAL A spokeswoman at P&G said sponsored Luna Rossa will take part in REAL ESTATE Barrymore “continues to be a Cover the 34th America’s Cup, which will be BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY Girl,” without saying when the held in San Francisco in September. Respected designer & founder of RAIDER JEAN CO., with 25+ yrs fash- contract is due to end. “As a rule, “This is our fourth challenge for ion background in men’s & boys’ appa- NATIONAL SALES REP we don’t discuss the details of our the America’s Cup, certainly the most rel seeks to join with ongoing apparel World renowned fine jewelry de- co., or receive financial aid. I have signer seeks aggressive sales per- contracts with our celebrities and revolutionary compared to past ones,” sold $8M-$25M per year. Retail rela- ambassadors,” she said. said Bertelli. “Launching a yacht is still Showrooms & Lofts tionships include well-known national son for exclusive representation in BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS chains & hundreds of specialty stores new business expansion w/ upscale Barrymore couldn’t be reached as exciting as ever, maybe even more Great ’New’ Office Space Avail throughout the world. I have my own majors, indep’t jewelry, and special- ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 showroom located in the heart of the for comment. She has had more than so in this case because this boat is so garment center with up-to-date com- ty stores. Exp. in jewelry/fashion ac- a passing involvement with beauty. technologically extreme, the outcome puter systems. Any interested parties cessories sales mandatory. Interest- When she signed on with Cover Girl in of state-of-the-art research and of a please contact: [email protected] ed parties please send resumes to: April 2007, she not only was cast as the huge effort from the whole team.” [email protected] brand’s face but also took a leading role A 70-member team worked on the in producing the television campaign 22-meter maxi catamaran with a 40- as its co-creative director. Prior to that, meter high wingsail, for nearly one PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS she worked for Lancôme with makeup year. Construction involved 300 people Full service shop to the trade. artist Gucci Westman. — PETE BORN for a total of 52,000 working hours. The Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 total cost of sponsoring the yacht is SAVILE SAVVY: “I think Lee would have expected to amount to about 40 million approved,” said Annabelle Neilson, euros, or $54.4 million at current WWDCAREERS.COM a friend and muse of the late Lee exchange rates. — LUISA ZARGANI MANUFACTURER WANTED Alexander McQueen at the party Rep of 38 years in jewelry business to mark the opening of Alexander ALL IN: The stage was set as soon (department stores, mass, discounters) looking for fashion/basic moderately McQueen’s men’s wear shop at 9 Savile as guests — most of the downtown priced (NOT TREND) costume manu- Row in London. “I think he would hipster set, and those hoping to join facturer. Midwest and Toronto. Great references. Email: [email protected] have said ‘Well done, Sarah [Burton, its ranks — trickled into the W Union McQueen’s creative director],’ if he was Square’s grand ballroom Thursday here tonight. It’s a beautiful shop; I’m night for a dinner celebrating Reece going to bring all my boyfriends here. Hudson’s latest fashion film installation. And he would have loved seeing that Perhaps it was the warm glow of the (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] photo by the door. He loved that photo.” votives scattered across the black Neilson was referring to the David linen-cloaked tables, or the room itself,

w29a015a.indd 15 10/28/12 3:22 PM 10282012152338 ADVERTISEMENT Middle of Everywhere: Sri Lanka, A True Regional Hub

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WWDAccessories Section II

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SECTION II WWD.COM

wwdaccessories Van Cleef’s Dazzlers There are also more unusual pieces, By Joelle DiDerich including some stunning examples of In the MIx minaudières invented by charles Arpels PAriS — After circling the globe with in the Twenties, and an entire sequence exhibitions of its exclusive creations, of jewelry from the Forties and Fifties fine jeweler Van cleef & Arpels inspired by fashion and textiles. green for green has landed in its hometown Aside from the famous Zip GeMFielDS, The london-based with a dazzling show at necklace, launched in 1951, mining and marketing company that the Decorative Arts these include lace-effect specializes in Zambian emeralds and Museum here. bow brooches, a tulle colored gemstones, is amping up its opening just days bracelet consisting of Stateside presence through a series after the brand un- clusters of fine gold of initiatives. veiled its Good luck mesh flowers studded With a new office in Manhattan’s charms collection with diamonds and chelsea, plans to build an American at the Biennale des rubies, and necklaces division, a revamped Web site launch- Antiquaires, “Van resembling braided ing in January, its first official U.S. cleef & Arpels — The cord and twill weave. ad campaign and a slew of high-end Art of Fine Jewelry” evelyne Possémé, designer collaborations, Gemfields Kimberly McDonald earrings made with runs until Feb. 10, and chief curator of the aims to establish itself as an ethical, Gemfields emeralds. features close to 500 jew- museum’s Art Nouveau- fashion-forward luxury brand. in robb report, Vanity Fair and other els, watches and precious Art Déco jewelry depart- The firm, which provides about 20 fashion publications for spring with objects, a third of which are ment, said the exhibition percent of the world’s emerald sup- a campaign shot by Mario Sorrenti — previously unseen pieces be- aims to educate visitors ply, has sought to create a stable and its first major U.S. advertising push. longing to private collectors. about the house’s trademark centralized market for emeralds and The company has been working They are displayed in creations and unique skills, other gemstones. with a series of designers, including chronological order in the like the so-called “mystery it prides itself on its consistent use Fabergé, hannah Martin, Dominic museum’s central nave, setting” procedure for pav- of conflict-free mines and a full disclo- Jones, Kimberly McDonald and others where futuristic curved glass ing precious stones using sure certification program, which guar- over the past year to collaborate on cases sit under petal-shaped no visible claws — fea- antees the provenance of every gem. special pieces using its Zambian em- suspensions, and in smaller tured on a chrysanthemum “We want to highlight the landscape eralds in various forms. side rooms, where Plexiglas brooch on loan to a museum of where [the stones] are mined and Prices range from $1,890 to tubes allow visitors a 360-de- for the first time. the natural, transparent way in which $512,000, and while the brand only gree view of selected items. “There are maybe 10 peo- they’re brought to market,” said randi sells via auction with a select group of Nicolas Bos, vice presi- ple in France who know how Molofsky lithgow, head of marketing international dealers, it plans to bulk dent and worldwide cre- to do this,” she said. “The metal and communications in the U.S. up its retail partnerships and digital ative director of Van cleef A Van Cleef & is completely invisible and all Beyond ethics, Gemfields is also presence in the U.S. its new Web site & Arpels, said the time Arpels necklace. you see are the stones. in that determined to raise its appeal to lux- will contain a mix of educational and line approach sets the show sense, it is really the ultimate ury consumers with an emphasis on editorial content, including videos, apart from the jeweler’s other evolution of jewelry as we have its emeralds and Mozambique rubies. photos of the collaborations and re- exhibitions staged in Tokyo, New York known it since the 17th century.” The brand secured advertising space tailer information. — KRIstI gaRceD and Shanghai since 2009. The exhibition features draw- “Through a chronology of the histo- ings, prototypes and a screening room ry of the house, the aim is to illustrate where visitors can take a virtual tour and describe the whole evolution of fine of the brand’s headquarters on Place jewelry and its relationship with the Vendôme, while two to three experts raTing The SiTeS: Jewelry anD waTCh branDS history of decorative arts in the 20th are on hand full-time to provide expla- This month, New York University think tank Luxury Lab, or L2, released its century,” said Bos. nations and answer questions. fourth annual Digital IQ Index ranking watch and jewelry brands based on “At the end of World War ii, for ex- Among highlights of the show are ex- their online competence in areas spanning their digital flagships (40 percent), ample, you see the influence on designs ceptional pieces once owned by celebrities digital marketing (30 percent), mobile (15 percent) and social media (15 of certain colors and motifs, like birds, such as Maria callas and Barbara hutton. which symbolize freedom, or more physi- At an opening-night gala in September, percent). Here are the top 10. — Rachel stRugatz cal consequences like the return of yel- Princess charlene of Monaco posed along- low gold, because platinum was in low side the océan diamond tiara, which she 1. Tiffany & Co. 6. monTblanC supply, having been used for building wore as a necklace for her first official ap- weapons,” he noted. pearance following her wedding to Prince 2. SwarovSki 7. PanDora likewise, the Twenties section includes Albert last year. Another room features the 3. DaviD yurman 8. De beerS several pieces inspired by the discovery of diamond-and-pearl wedding set worn by 4. TiSSoT 9. viCTorinox Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, including Princess Grace of Monaco on her honey- a bracelet featuring a hieroglyph design moon with Prince rainier in 1956. 5. CarTier 10. Jaeger-leCoulTre rendered in diamonds, rubies, sapphires, And no jewelry exhibition these days SOURCE: NYU’S LUXURY LAB emeralds and onyx. would be complete without some pieces The Sixties, meanwhile, gave from elizabeth Taylor’s collection. way to indian influ- on display here is the lion ences, reflecting so- Barquerolles dog collar ciety’s growing fasci- featuring a lion’s head Dkny ShoeS’ new look sensible shoes. high-top sneakers will nation with eastern studded in diamonds have zippers on the side, traditional philosophies, and a and emeralds, given TWiSTeD clASSicS. comfort technolo- tennis shoes boast hidden wedges and variety of best-sell- to the actress by gy. Stretch. The seven-hour shoe. Gloves knee-high boots will have stretch lin- ing pieces, includ- her then husband for the feet. Sexy, witty, breathable. ing down the inside of the boot. ing the Alhambra richard Burton to Those are some buzzwords foot- The company has sourced new biode- necklace, the celebrate the birth wear designer eileen Shields uses to gradable and recyclable materials from Philippine of her first grand- describe the next chapter for DKNY’s Germany — materials generally found wring and child. This piece shoe category. Shields joined Donna in athletic shoes — and plans to expand brooches shaped from 1971, which Karan’s design team in 1992 to help its midheel and sneaker offerings. like animals. transforms into two launch footwear and remained “Platforms have become so popular. bracelets and a clip, there for more than a decade before everything’s been really sexy, and was purchased by leaving to start her own name- that’s really relevant,” Shields Van cleef & Arpels for sake line in 2004, as well said. “But there’s a massive [lack its archives at the auction of as to open a store in of] midheels. Midheels need to be Taylor’s jewels at christie’s ireland. That line has gorgeous and well-designed.” last year. since been discontin- Prices are consistent with cur- Van cleef & Arpels hopes to ued, and Shields has rent collections. Most shoes run bring to Paris some of the excite- returned to DKNY as from $225 to $325, while over- ment generated by its show at vice president of foot- the-knee boots might go as high the Smithsonian’s cooper-hewitt wear design. as $500 to $600. The spring National Design Museum in New The brand aims to collection will be the first Yo r k last year, which drew a re- rejuvenate the category under Shields’ creative cord 278,000 visitors. with shoes that empha- direction, with initial Said Bos: “There is huge inter- size comfort and stretch deliveries hitting re- est in fine jewelry from a public that — but without the ap- A DKnY tailers in January and goes far beyond the circle of our clients Van Cleef & pearance of traditional, sneaker. February. — K.g. or potential clients and collectors.” Arpels brooches.

w29b002a;12.indd 2 10/26/12 4:35 PM 10262012163556 Handbag Showroom | 29 W35th St., 2nd Floor | New York, NY 10001 | 212.868.2770 4 WWD monday, october 29, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

wwdaccessories

Anna-Karin Karlsson MUCH OF fashion is about differentiation, and that notion is hitting the eyewear market. Appealing to consumers who want a boutique look, independent brands like Cutler and Gross, Illesteva, Thierry Lasry, Anna-Karin Karlsson, Andy Wolf, Westward Leaning, Rigards, Prism Anna Laub and newcomer Sheriff&Cherry are delivering unique frames for spring. Cutler and Gross, the U.K.-based company estab- lished in 1969 by Graham Cutler and Tony Gross, who met in optometry school, is arguably the best-known of the group. Each frame is still handcrafted in a family-run factory in the Cadore region of Northern Italy, and every frame — at $470 to $575 retail — goes through 37 processes and takes four weeks to make. “Cutler and Gross has never been trend-driv- en,” said Cutler and Gross design director Marie Wilkinson. “We pride ourselves on functional, hard- working and timeless frames. The key is to make a feature out of the frame, rather than pretending it’s not there.” He noted that the brand has partnered with designers such as Comme des Garçons, L’Wren Scott, Maison Martin Margiela, Giles Deacon and Erdem Moralioglu. The spring collection is made with Japanese flu- oro acetate, inspired by Thirties Belgian Surrealist artists, and will be sold at Dover Street Market, Harvey Nichols and Odin. Eyewear designer Karlsson said she invented the off-white plastic glitter to get “just the right shade of sparkles” for her ivory rose Cause I Flippin’ Can sunglasses. The $820 cat-eye frames feature a row of 10 rosebuds of various sizes bor- dering the top, and will hit retailers in January. “I went to Hong Kong and sprinkled glitter on Frames plastic for days,” said Karlsson, describing the pro- Through the Indie Lens cess. “I use a patented high-definition plastic.” She launched her line in 2011, but 2013 marks Boutique eyewear brands are on the rise. By Rachel Strugatz the first time she’s making a significant push in the U.S. Her collection, $525 to $898, will be carried on Moda Operandi’s Web site and at Gregory’s in Los Angeles, Beverly Hills, Dallas, Houston and Atlanta. Thierry Lasry’s “futurist vintage” frames have garnered a cultlike following since the designer started his line six years ago. Now, the line, which retails for $385 to $485 and is handmade in France, can be found in about 800 doors worldwide, includ- ing Lane Crawford, Colette and Opening Ceremony. “[Boutique eyewear is] going more high-end and luxurious with no logos and real quality,” Lasry said. His acetate cat-eye, extreme cat-eye and round shapes often feature saturated colors and mosaic or confetti prints. Westward Leaning Illesteva Sheriff&Cherry’s premier pre-summer collec- tion will launch at Barneys New York, Colette and Net-a-porter next month. The series of classic sil- houettes — mainly cat-eye and square — have twists like colorblocking or leopard prints in blue, green or red. The unisex glasses range from $115 to $130, and were inspired by a vintage archive found in Croatia dating back to the mid-Sixties to late Eighties. The styles, which founder Mauro Massarotto calls “new retro,” are all handmade using injected acetate and silver nickel. Three-year-old Illesteva based its spring collection on a “night out at a Twenties speakeasy,” according to founders Daniel Silberman and Justin Salguero. The Cutler and Gross Andy Wolf brand is also introducing its first optical offerings. The main collection retails from $165 to $290 and con- tains elements like titanium, carbon fiber and leopard and striped acetate. The line created for Zac Posen, Illesteva x Zac Posen, sells for $300. Westward Leaning’s socially conscious sun- glasses, conceptualized by Robert Denning and Karlygash Burkitbayeva while still in Stanford Business School in 2011, launched last March at westwardleaning.com. Unlike the others, though, the line features just one frame — a modern take on the wayfarer — that the designers think “com- plements and flatters just about everyone.” Currently, the line is sold for $165 to $295 in 15 Thierry Lasry Prism Anna Laub locations across the U.S. and Europe, including at Fred Segal and Opening Ceremony, and is about to enter the Japanese market. The brand is also about to release its new Wintermute collection, an under- stated follow-up to its successful Color Revolution line that featured mirrored lenses in neon colors. “For so many years, sunglasses were seen as just another way for major brands to monetize and ex- tend their core product line by enabling them to reach customers at a more attainable price point,” Denning said. “Boutique eyewear brands and sun- glasses designers are challenging this assumption, and showing glasses that are worthy, original and creative in their own right.” Anna-Karin Karlsson Sheriff&Cherry

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6 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 29, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDACCESSORIES Charting the New ‘Modern Luxury’

Several brands are pioneering a fresh niche in handbags. By Rachel Strugatz

PAY MANHATTAN RENT OR get a ers are Stella McCartney, Pierre Hardy, new handbag? Rochas and Coach. Alexander Wang That seems to be the sentiment as “We posted double-digit growth handbags, designer handbag prices reach strato- within accessories over recent years, $925 each. spheric levels. resulting in the vast expansion of our Contemporary labels are fighting luxury and designer accessories offer,” for market share in a category with too said Simon Longland, general mer- many players lacking standout product, chandise manager for accessories at and many consumers aren’t equipped Harrods. “This has enabled us to grow to invest in designer handbags, many our business significantly, allowing of which surpass $2,000. So what are the larger luxury brands to showcase consumers to do? The trend-conscious their full product offer from dedicated, shopper still wants a high-quality branded shop-in-shop concepts, and handbag — one that retains the charac- enabling us to diversify our range of teristics of its higher-end counterparts brands by introducing new lines in- on the designer floor — but without the cluding 3.1 Phillip Lim, Reed Krakoff, hefty price tag. Proenza Schouler, MCM, Coach and An oversaturation of contemporary Jérôme Dreyfuss. lines, coupled with increasingly expen- “The average luxury handbag re- sive designer handbags, has left the tails significantly over 1,000 pounds market with a gaping hole: the need [$1,600] with diffusion lines averaging for a modern luxury price point. But at approximately 400 pounds [$640]. of the extreme offerings in the market, Consequently, there is a growing de- a handful of brands have managed to mand for contemporary luxury that [in- deliver accessories that fit somewhere cludes] collections at a retail price of on the high contemporary-to-entry de- 750 pounds [$1,200] and this is proving signer spectrum, and their efforts have popular with the Harrods customer.” been met with great success. Lim is in a unique position, as his “It’s literally just Phillip Lim and handbag line has helped establish and Alexander Wang,” said Lincoln Moore, define this new “modern luxury” ac- vice president and divisional mer- cessory category. The company’s con- chandise manager for women’s hand- temporary-designer hybrid accessories bags at Saks Fifth Avenue. “ Yo u would have performed better than 3.1 Phillip be hard-pressed to find anything out- Lim chief executive officer Wen Zhou’s side those two brands that are really expectations. In just four seasons, hand- at that level. Then you have every- bags will have become roughly a third — thing beneath and above. There is or close to $40 million at retail — of the such an opportunity here.” overall business.

He calls Lim and Wang ready-to-wear “I feel like I’m starting this business designers who have become lifestyle all over again,” said Zhou. “When we brands, and commends them for having started rtw in 2005, it was exactly the a clear sensibility for accessories and for same positioning. There was nothing homing in on a couple of bag styles. Lim in between luxury and contemporary, was picked up by the New York store and something that women at our age want became available on saks.com for spring to wear and still can afford. I want to 2012, and will expand into additional top- do this at our price point, I want to use

performing doors by the end of the year. Italian leather with beautiful hard- ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT “It would be great if more people ware, and I want to give the consumer at that level did the same thing. I can what she deserves — and not [have her] think of other designers who could re- feel completely broke. We can’t pay ally tap into accessories. I think some $3,000 for a bag.” do OK — nominally at best — with From the fall 2011 season — the first handbags. A lot of designers dabble in time the brand rolled out a stand-alone accessories and they just fall short,” footwear and handbag collection — to Moore said. the current fall 2012 season, there was This fall, Harrods expanded its ac- a 275 percent increase in sales, growing THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY cessories department, doubling in from $3 million at wholesale to $7.5 mil- space from 20,000 to 40,000 square feet lion — or about $20 million at retail — in in eight rooms, up from four. 3.1 Phillip just one year. For spring 2013, sales are PHOTOS BY Lim, which has its own in-store shop, already up 76 percent from fall 2012, and is one of five new “luxury” brands that the season isn’t finished booking. ects accessories will bring in $45 mil- she is firm that Lim is still a rtw firm inhabit the increased space. The oth- By the end of this year, Zhou proj- lion at retail for the brand, 85 percent and she doesn’t want accessories to gen- of that from handbags. Accessories can erate more than half of the business. If comprise up to 35 percent of overall the accessories business continues on business for 2012. the same trajectory, the breakdown will Besides Saks and Harrods, Lim is be 60 percent apparel and 40 percent A Reece Hudson clutch, $1,195. carried at Barneys New York, Neiman accessories next year. On its digital flag- Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Nordstrom, ship, which saw an e-commerce-enabled Shopbop, Net-a-porter, Lagarconne. relaunch six months ago, handbags are com and Ssense.com. In-store shops for responsible for 65 percent of sales. Lim’s accessories also launched this fall “Our goal is to increase our ready- at Selfridges. Next year, in-store shops to-wear, and with more freestanding will bow at Brown Thomas and Le Bon stores opening, our ready-to-wear will Marché, adjacent to designer brands grow too. Forty percent is a nice ratio Celine and Givenchy. for a business that is so young and so Zhou maintains the category is grow- new. And we like that ratio,” said Zhou. ing organically and “not growing for the Lim’s handbags are mostly pro- sake of growing our numbers.” She is duced in China, with the exception of careful not to flood the market (hence the novelty elements or exotics that are waiting lists for the black Pashli satchel made in the U.S. in stores and at 31philliplim.com). The focal points of Lim’s handbag Although she predicts a steady 20 to offerings thus far have been two silhou- 30 percent increase per season — with ettes, each with several spin-offs. The the exception of the most recent one, Pashli, a more structured satchel with which nearly tripled her estimates — {Continued on page 8} Jewelry Showroom 29 West 35th Street, 4th Floor 212.868.2770 BcBgeneration.com jewelry 8 WWD monday, october 29, 2012

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDACCESSORIES

in exotic skins will be sold separately for Charting the New ‘Modern Luxury’ consumers to attach to studs on the body of the bag. The covers, which range from A 3.1 Phillip {Continued from page 6} $150 to $175, will hit retail in November. Lim handbag, zipper detailing at the front, and the 31 Kirna Zabête carries the above de- $895. Hour bag, a softer version of the Pashli signers, and co-owner Beth Buccini has with less hardware, range from about no qualms about merchandising Lim’s $795 to just more than $1,000. 31 Hour bag next to Celine or Proenza For the brand’s spring runway show Schouler. She also cited two-year-old held during New York Fashion Week, brand Reece Hudson’s handbags — es- Lim introduced several new iterations pecially the $695 oversize Bowery clutch of the Pashli and 31 Hour. They ranged and the structured $825 Siren satchel

from punky florals to liquid gold me- that will arrive early next year — as a tallic, to functional day-sized clutches “chic middle ground.” with hand slots to make for easy carry- “They are carving out this new ing. According to Zhou, new styles and niche of not super-high-end — but not offerings increased by 50 percent for low-end, either. People like to be sur- spring. The company added two to four prised and have new names. It’s so

new bodies for the main Pashli and 31 much fashion and luxury, it doesn’t Hour groups, but she maintained that feel contemporary,” Buccini said of each season will see the addition of a Hudson’s collection. The 13-year-old new group or groups. SoHo retailer picked up Hudson’s line “We wanted to get away [from] that upon its launch for fall 2010 and said ubiquitousness of having an ‘It’ bag,” she continues to do well with it. said Lim. “Ours are quiet, simple and Buccini’s customer buys designer ’’ functional, but don’t forsake design. I bags that fall within this “chic middle just want a bag that will work with our ground,” or modern luxury category. consumer and let her get through the “Someone can buy a [Proenza day….It’s not the most expensive, its Schouler] PS1, and they’ll also want the not the least expensive, it’s not the most 31 Hour bag. I don’t think that people luxurious, but its luxurious enough. It’s are as absolutely crazy focused on name a modern choice for that modern per- brands anymore. They want something a son. It should start that category and little different and a little unexpected. that dialogue.” That’s what you can find from these ven- Like 3.1 Phillip Lim, a third of dors — and the price isn’t exorbitant.” Wang’s business comes from his ever- Reece Hudson, currently car- growing handbag category, 95 percent ried at about 20 doors worldwide and of this from wholesale partners. He on Shopbop.com, was just picked up cites consistent growth — 21 percent by Barneys in seven doors including from spring 2012 to spring 2013 — also Madison Avenue, SoHo, Beverly Hills, fueled by the introduction of men’s ac- The Grove, San Francisco, Miami and its cessories, small leather goods and mov- Web site, barneys.com, for spring. Reece When we started rtw in 2005, it was exactly ing production to Italy. While they start Hudson ceo Max Stein contends that the anywhere from about $500, the average brand works well in multiple ways — the same positioning. There was nothing in handbag ranges from $795 to $895, with from sitting alongside Alexander Wang exotics costing nearly twice that. at Barneys, to having a place at Kirna between luxury and contemporary. Wang introduced two handbags for fall Zabête next to Givenchy or Pierre Hardy. 2008, a year after the brand launched, “When we started, Alexander Wang — Wen Zhou, 3.1 PhilliP lim and he called entering the accessories and Phillip Lim didn’t really have bags arena the “turning point” for the com- yet, and I love that they helped define pany. He credited accessories as impact- the category. Without them, it would be spring. Evening bags, especially min- The brand has seen steady growth of ing the overall direction and allowing much harder,” Stein said. audières like the $1,195 Bondage bag 30 percent each season, with the bulk of the company to grow, as well as the area The oversize Bowery clutch that with a connected chain and cuff, serve the collections retailing from about $700 that’s experienced the most growth. garnered major attention for the brand as a point of differentiation for Hudson. to $1,000 (exotics can exceed $2,000, how- Wang cited megabrands like Louis retails for $695, and the Siren remains When Stein and Hudson founded ever). Besides five freestanding doors — Vuitton as prime examples of how in- the current best-selling silhouette for the label, they observed that handbags three in Paris, and one in each of New tegral accessories are for a firm. “It’s were falling into two categories: design- York and Taipei, Taiwan — and plans enabled us to do a lot more experimen- er brands attached to houses and then to open two additional stores in Tokyo tal things in other parts of the company entry contemporary collections that and Seoul, the bags are carried in about because we’ve built such a strong acces- A Jérôme “felt derivative of the houses.” It was 350 doors worldwide at stores including Dreyfuss tote, sories category.” paramount to Hudson to create an inde- Neiman’s, Net-a-porter,’’ Lane Crawford, He anticipates handbags constitut- $875. pendent handbag line with a signature Printemps, Le Bon Marché and Barneys. ing 50 percent of the business in the point of view — from hardware to high- Tomoko Ogura, senior fashion direc- next few years, and accessories-only quality production in Italy. tor at Barneys, said the store is trying stores are something he’s considering. Similar to Hudson (with the excep- to elevate the space. She credited Lim, “We’ve never wanted to be catego- tion of belts), Jérôme Dreyfuss is an- Wang, Dreyfuss and Hudson with provid- rized by price point,” said Wang. “It’s other strictly accessories brand that falls ing “collections with strong, different always been about a unique positioning within the parameters characterized by points of view” with “really strong price- that first has a point of view and origi- the above designers. In fact, Dreyfuss, to-value relationships.” nality of design. Second, we see where who is married to Isabel Marant, might Elevate is also a key word for Saks, we can play with our resources.” have helped define the category when he and Moore said the store has addressed He noted that all materials come from founded his own line in 1998. But unlike the oversaturation of the contemporary Europe and hardware is custom devel- Wang and Lim, Dreyfuss wants handbags handbag category by working with se- oped. “The idea of approachability and to remain at the heart of the company. lect brands to create exclusive products. accessibility of the bags was important, He has expanded within the catego- Such is the case with Rebecca while maintaining quality,” he said. ry with the launch of his Monsieur Minkoff, which worked with the retailer Mary-Kate Olsen created a stir in Dreyfuss men’s line this year. to create a handmade, higher-end col- 2009 when she was photographed Dreyfuss noted he started his lection, retailing from about $500 to $995 wearing Wang’s Rocco textured business with apparel, but after a (exotics range from $1,200 to $1,995), black leather duffel with a stud- few seasons changed directions. more than double or even triple the ded bottom — which has since At the time, most of the hand- price of its main collection. The Rebecca become a top seller and main- bags out there were from Minkoff collection launched exclusively stay in the line. The design- “big houses with big logos” with Saks in spring 2010 and is avail- er said he’s made an effort and the women he knew able in about six locations, including the to take the collection in weren’t gravitating to- New York store, where it sits alongside new directions, includ- ward this. designer bags. Distribution for her col- ing the Prisma group, “I wanted to make lection handbags has since widened to which has cleaner, a different proposi- include Lane Crawford and Intermix. smoother leather and tion. I started doing it “We saw there was a need for an el- metal corners, and the for my friends because evated handbag,” Minkoff said. “For the more structured Pelican. I couldn’t find something girl who had graduated from buying The Pelican sling retails that I felt was fitting for my contemporary handbags and wanted to for $725 — and for holiday, friends. It’s always the way I have accessible luxury with a young de- individual, reversible covers work,” Dreyfuss said. signer look.”

w29b006(8)a;12.indd 8 10/26/12 1:54 PM 10262012135628 jewelry collection 2013

Monique erickson | [email protected] | 646.619.6817 10 WWD monday, october 29, 2012 SECTION II

wwdaccessories Fine Jewelry’s Fashionable Showdown Fashion houses play for a piece of the market. By Alexandra Steigrad

ON AN OvercAst July dAy in Paris, by fashion houses, Burke said, acknowl- Graff ’s selling strategy Kristen dunst, sofia coppola, catherine edging that venerable fashion brands like includes private vIP selling deneuve, louise Bourgoin and other dior and chanel will grab their share. events in stores or at clients’ An 18-karat well-heeled friends of louis vuitton ar- Barbara cirkva, division president of homes, as well as collaborations white gold rived at Place vendôme to fete the open- fashion, watches and fine with both the art world and with re- necklace with ing of the maison’s fine jewelry bou- jewelry at chanel, agreed, sorts. the brand also uses traditional white and tique and workshop before heading next but underscored her com- advertising and its Web site to black diamonds door to the ritz for dinner and drinks. pany’s history as well. educate customers. from Chanel. On its face, the event, like myriad “Many fashion brands “One thing that fashion store-opening parties, welcomed the have stepped into the brands do have is a passion- city’s most influential people, who, fine jewelry world to ex- ate following,” said chopard dressed in smart designer clothes, trad- pand their presence, u.s. president and ceo Marc ed pleasantries while sipping cocktails. but chanel [has] a fine Hruschka, who explained What set this party apart was its pur- jewelry heritage,” she that most houses understand pose; it marked another chapter for the said. “We are as much how to communicate luxury, 158-year-old house, namely a retail push of a pure play as exclusivity and quality. into the jewelry market through its first cartier or Bulgari. I “chopard is 152 years stand-alone fine jewelry store. think the difference old. We’ve invested enor- Over the next two years, vuitton plans is that most people mous amounts of money to open stand-alone jewelry boutiques in don’t know the ex- Sapphire and in the craftsmanship of our major cities, starting with los Angeles, tent of our offering diamond chandelier house. that’s not something Hong Kong, tokyo and New york. in fine jewelry.” earrings from Graff. you can just re-create, but the “It’s just the beginning as far as we’re that’s an obstacle fashion houses are very smart and they concerned,” said Hamdi chatti, vice facing fashion houses. While consumers will bring on the right people,” he said. president of fine jewelry and watches know chanel, not everyone knows that One example is. s dior ince she at vuitton. “We believe jewelry for the chanel sells fine jewelry. And if they do, launched dior fine jewelry in 1998, as its broad reach among fashion consum- louis vuitton consumer is part of the why would they chose to spend thousands victoire de castellane has delivered col- ers. It’s a luxury that these brands have whole look.” of dollars on jewelry from chanel? lections with the same “constant spirit,” that will allow them to compete with even though vuitton has carried jewel- cirkva replied that chanel, which is according to laurence Nicolas, dior’s the best pure-play jewelers, sofisi said, ry for 11 years, it has never focused on the celebrating the 80th anniversary of its fine jewelry director. explaining that it’s the smaller, lesser- fine side of the business in this way — and high jewelry line this year, is among the “they are always highly precious,” known companies that may struggle. it’s not the only fashion house doing so. few brands that fabricates the majority Nicolas said of the designer’s collections. susie Otero, Montblanc’s managing dolce & Gabbana, of its jewelry in Paris. “they have a ‘soul supplement’” that re- director, agreed, adding that her com- Hermès, ralph “Many of our fers to dior’s roots while also adding a pany is able to trade on its brand to lauren, Gucci, pieces are made in “creative twist.” broaden its reach. chanel and dior the ateliers by the the house’s most recent collection, Known primarily for its writing instru- are putting a big- grandchildren of released in July, nodded to Fifties cos- ments, Montblanc is taking a more ag- ger emphasis on the craftsmen who tume jewelry by including vibrant gems gressive approach, as it moves toward re- fine jewelry, while made the original such as blue-lagoon apatites, khaki branding itself as an accessories player. rivals such as pieces for chanel,” heart-shaped sphene and fire opal. “We want to become really relevant Ferragamo and she said, while ac- While colored stones were paired in the jewelry and watch space,” vivienne tam are knowledging the with traditional platinum, yel- said Otero, who focuses on entering the seg- potential roadblock. low gold and diamonds, each men’s and women’s jewelry. ment for the first One way chanel piece was backed with gold “For Montblanc, the goal is time. elsewhere, aims to change con- lace, duplicating the design to keep it elegant…and re- Montblanc is re- sumer perception is archives used by christian main accessible.” vamping its mid- by opening separate dior on couture gowns from Accessibility is key for priced fine jew- fine jewelry bou- 1947 to 1957. Montblanc, which, according to elry line, in order tiques in the same Michele sofisi, Gucci Otero, cannot yet compete with to grow sales and A yellow gold and ruby cuff from Dior. markets where it has Group’s ceo of watches and rival pure-play jewelers such as hopefully convert major stores. the jewelry, echoed that importance van cleef & Arpels, cartier and A cocktail ring with customers to its higher-priced collections. house has also added entry-priced fine of heritage and craftsmanship. tiffany & co. white, brown and But, with an influx of freshly branded jewelry in its fashion boutiques in order “consumer behavior has Montblanc’s jewelry rang- cognac diamonds baubles, there are challenges, and de- to “transition and educate” consumers, changed dramatically in the es from $150 to $15,000, and from Louis Vuitton. signer houses need to learn the tricks of cirkva offered. last four or five years,” he said. doesn’t yet have the cachet to the jewelry trade to capitalize on their But some jewelers question if fash- “customers have become much more go up against its rivals’ most expensive fashion following and compete effective- ion houses know how to ade- thoughtful in their purchasing deci- collections, admitted Otero. ly with established high-end jewelers. quately educate shoppers. sions. they are looking for real As a result, the company is focusing “A market by definition has births Although he was not refer- quality in materials, craft and, on modernizing its fine and fashion col- and it has deaths. there will be deaths,” ring to chanel, specifically, of course, design. they also lections by including edgier sculptural said Bulgari chief executive officer Graff president and chief appreciate it when there jewelry that mixes gold, silver and steel Michael Burke, offering that pure play- executive officer Henri is a narrative behind the with materials including diamonds, ers have history on their side. Barguirdjian said that item they are buying.” ebony and leather. touting Bulgari’s 130-year history in “the approach of selling a At Gucci, jewelry collec- “today, more brands are develop- jewelry, Burke predicted larger, estab- piece of jewelry is differ- tions typically refer to the ing jewelry. If this continues, people lished jewelers would have the edge in ent than selling a cou- brand’s heritage, he said, will not only consider this 106-year-old the fine jewelry market. He noted, how- ture gown.” pointing to bestsellers brand, but maybe they will also consider ever, that as the market expands and “Fashion brands are such as cocktail bracelets buying other brands,” she said. women buy more jewelry for themselves, learning the ropes,” and rings that incorporate the standoff that Otero sees materi- a large percentage of those purchases will he said. “It’s not that an ornamental horse bit. alizing, as more brands jump into the include a mix of fine and fashion baubles. simple. you need a He also cited the roman market, is one that pits unbranded jew- “It’s been said many times that jew- highly educated staff jeweler’s silver collection, elers against branded jewelers. elry is the next market segment that will that can explain the which includes its signature Although the unbranded market is larg- undergo explosive growth, just like hand- quality of a piece. bamboo wood design on er than the branded jewelry market, Otero bags did in the mid-Nineties. the same you need that in- bracelets, rings, neck- said the influx of fashion houses would thing happened with shoes in the early depth knowledge laces and watches. push out smaller, unbranded companies 2000s,” he said. “Important brands that to give confidence like dior, vuitton unless they are produce creative designs. have been very considerate with their to the customer on and chanel, Gucci “this makes the market more chal- brand extension are jumping into it.” why they should is placing its bets lenging,” she said. “I believe the world the fine jewelry market’s “dramatic” buy a $300,000 piece A Bulgari bracelet in pink gold with turquoise, on its history and is big, but in order to succeed, every growth has been a catalyst for expansion of jewelry.” tourmaline, garnet, amethyst and diamonds. authenticity, as well brand will need to have its own style.”

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The Fuchsia necklace and (right) the Cape Gooseberry ring, Mikimoto’s Royal Strategy both from from Mikimoto’s Regalia The pearl giant is using its 120th anniversary celebration as a way collection. to boost its presence outside Japan. By Rachel Strugatz

JULY 11, 1893, 16-by-21-mm. white South Sea baroque globally for the company is the Akoya. Calif., and Beverly Hills) and about 200 was the day Kokichi cultured pearl in the center, Akoya cul- These cultured pearls are produced wholesale accounts available in 250 doors. Mikimoto cultured the tured pearls and more than 15 carats of exclusively by Akoya oysters in Japan Hoffmann maintains that business has world’s first perfectly diamonds set in white gold. The com- and vary in size from 3 to 10 mm. and steadily grown by double-digits the past two semispherical pearl in pany holds the majority of market share come in various colors, ranging about years, and he projects this will continue. He Japan, and to mark the start in the high-end pearl category, with a $2,000 for a basic strand to $20,000, de- said that, postrecession, the direction of the of Mikimoto’s 120th anniver- business estimated to be close to $400 pending on quality and grading. product has elevated, and the selection has sary celebration, the brand’s million, according to industry sources. South Sea cultured pearls are also moved up to a more affluent audience. new Regalia Mikimoto collec- It’s also counted celebrities like Grace heavily incorporated and are larger China — the fastest growing market tion will go on sale Thursday. Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor and Marilyn in size (most over 10 mm.) and pre- for the brand — will see a major push at The collection — comprising 13 Monroe — who famously acquired her dominately come from Australia, retail over the next few years. There one-of-a-kind cultured pearl, dia- first Mikimoto necklace while on her Indonesia and the Philippines. are eight doors across Hong Kong mond and white gold pieces — honeymoon in Japan in 1954 with Joe The golden hue of this type of and Mainland China, but the com- made its debut this month with DiMaggio — as fans and frequent wear- pearl is the most rare — and pany plans to double that num- a tour that stopped in New York, ers of the brand’s famous pearl strands. especially popular in China. ber by 2017. Paris and London. From there, “The pearl is the star. When you see The white and black ver- South America is another seven pieces go to the New York the pieces, you’ll notice that any embel- sions sell better in the U.S. area of focus, said Hoffmann. store and the rest head to the lishment — diamonds or gold — can’t Black South Sea pearls Although the company has a London unit on Bond Street. hide the pearl,” Hoffmann said, noting are the most plentiful, the presence in cities such as Lima, “The designers went back into that the company only sells the top 3 to 5 average price for a strand Peru; Asuncion, Paraguay; Bogota, the archives to look at pieces pre- percent of pearls in the world and uses of these varies from $8,000 to Colombia, and Caracas, Venezuela, viously worn by royalty around an almost three-decade-old proprietary $15,000, considerably less than he plans to ramp up Mikimoto’s rep- the world,” said Meyer Hoffmann, grading system that characterizes its their white counterparts, which resentation in the region. “ Mikimoto America chief operat- pearls as AAA, AA, A or A+. average from $15,000 to $30,000 Mikimoto is also becoming more ing officer. “It’s the first time we’ve Pearls represent just 2 to 3 percent but can reach $100,000. The golden pearls aware of the luxury consumer’s affin- taken that expertise and created an of the overall jewelry market, making start at $25,000 and can range to $60,000. ity to all things digital. It has quadrupled international collection. In a way, Mikimoto’s audience a relatively finite Japan, where Mikimoto was founded its digital ad spend the past three years, this collection is our first big foray one. It’s because of this that Hoffmann en- and all sorting and production takes place, going from 5 percent in 2009 to 20 percent into a special opportunity to reach the sures the company executes tailored mar- constitutes 50 percent of the company’s in 2012. A mobile site was launched last market outside of Japan.” keting and design strategies by region. overall business, followed by North and year; the tablet view is currently being Retail prices range from $45,000 for For instance, Japanese like their South America at 30 percent and Asia, modified, and optimizing the experi- cultured pearl, diamond and 18-karat pearls small and dainty and never os- Europe and the Middle East at 20 percent. ence for the iPad is paramount right now. white gold earrings to $65,000 for a ring tentatious, whereas Russian consumers The firm has 29 freestanding doors and Today, 30 percent of visits to the brand’s with a 16-mm. cultured pearl encased love big pearls that reach 18 mm. in size. more than 500 points of distribution world- digital flagship at mikimoto.com come within white gold and diamonds. For The American consumer lies somewhere wide. The U.S. has four stand-alone stores from mobile or tablet devices, and 30 to 40 $320,000 there is a necklace featuring a in between — but the best-selling pearl (New York, Las Vegas, Orange County, percent of these visits originate on iPads.

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