CONTENTS 6-9 shoot by Marie Claire Ready-to-wear 35 Numanu 36 Oxfam 10-16 Women on Sustainability 18 Ada Zanditon 37 People Tree interviews by Matilda Lee 19 Anatomy 38 Prophetik 10 Wendy Dagworthy 20 Article 23 39 Reet Aus 11 Dilys Williams 21 CDC – Lucy Tammam 40 Rita Hraiz in Mudra 11 Becky Earley 21 CDC – Elena Garcia 41 Samant Chauhan 12 Sindhu Venkatanarayanan 22 Ciel Ltd 42 Stewart+Brown 12 Livia Firth 23 Del Forte 13 Sam Robinson 24 Eloise Grey Accessories 13 Lucy Siegle 25 Enamore 14 Deborah Orr 26 Environmental Justice Foundation 43 Antonello 14 India Knight 27 Ethical Fashion Forum – Mia 44 Beyond Skin 15 Jayne Pickering 27 Ethical Fashion Forum – Raeburn 45 Butcher Couture 16 Dorothy Maxwell 28 From Somewhere 46 Fifi Bijoux 29 Goodone 46 Sonya Kashmiri 17 Estethica curators’ letter 30 Ivana Basilotta 47 Nahui Ollin Orsola de Castro & Filippo Ricci 31 Izzy Lane 48 Nina Dolcetti 32 Makepiece 49 Veja 33 Mark Liu 34 Minna 50 Contact information Estethica – the guide

Editor: Matilda Lee Estethica – the exhibition Sub-editor: Eifion Rees Art Direction: Uscha Pohl / Philippe Blondez Estethica is a British Fashion Council eco-sustainable initiative at the London Cover image: Top Noir, skirt Anatomy Fashion Week Exhibition — creating Photographer: Helena Kouzeleas at www.sarahkaye.com high end fashion without compromise. Stylist: Lucia Debieux for Marie Claire Curators: Orsola de Castro & Filippo Ricci, Hair and make-up: Irena Rogers Anna Orsini using Aveda hair products and Organic Glam make-up www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/estethica Model: Julia Schweitzer @ mandpmodels

© 2009, printed using non-toxic vegetable inks on FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) approved paper. www.fsc.org

Cert no. IMO-COC-027150 3 MONSOON IS VERY PROUD TO BE SUPPORTING ESTETHICA FOR THE FOURTH SEASON AND SHARING ITS ETHICAL JOURNEY WITH THE DESIGNERS OF THE FUTURE

STARTING OUT IN THE EARLY 1970S WITH HAND-BLOCK PRINTED COTTONS AND VEGETABLE DYES FROM INDIAN VILLAGES, SUSTAINABLE FASHION HAS ALWAYS BEEN CLOSE TO OUR HEART. WHILE WE HAVE GROWN, WE ARE PASSIONATE ABOUT KEEPING OUR ETHICAL HERITAGE ALIVE. TRADITIONAL CRAFTS REMAIN INTEGRAL TO THE MONSOON HAND-WRITING AND WE ASPIRE TO A FUTURE WHERE ALL FASHION IS SUSTAINABLE.

IT IS A LONG JOURNEY AND WE DO NOT HAVE ALL THE ANSWERS. THIS YEAR, WE ARE LAUNCHING AN EXCITING NEW INITIATIVE “CLOTHES FOR LIFE” TO HELP ENSURE THAT NO MONSOON CLOTHES END UP IN LANDFILLS. ACTION IS NEEDED ON ALL FRONTS, BUT WE KNOW THAT NEW ETHICAL DESIGN TALENT IS KEY TO A MORE SUSTAINABLE FUTURE. ENJOY THE SHOW!

PETER SIMON MONSOON: SPINNING NEW THREADS FROM OLD YARN*

PETER SIMON EXPLAINS TO MATILDA LEE, ESTETHICA’S EDITOR, HOW HE CAME TO BECOME THE FOUNDER OF ONE OF THE HIGH STREET’S MOST SUCCESSFUL BRANDS:

“THE WORD “GREEN” DIDN’T EXIST THEN, BUT WE WERE VERY GREEN. NOW THAT I THINK OF IT, WE WERE 100 PER CENT COTTON AND SILK, USING VEGETABLE DYES AND USING A CRAFT PROCESS. IT’S THE ONLY REASON I GOT INTO THE CLOTHING BUSINESS. I WOULD HAVE NEVER GOT INVOLVED IN IT, IF IT INVOLVED GOING TO A FACTORY; BUT I WAS OUT IN THE VILLAGE IN INDIA OR TRAVELLING OVERLAND.

“I TOOK ON THE SELLING OF THESE CLOTHES IN ENGLAND. I SAID TO THE PEOPLE I WAS WORKING WITH AT THE TIME, “WE’VE GOT TO HAVE A SHOP”. WE WERE VERTICALLY INTEGRATED - VIRTUALLY UNHEARD OF AT THE TIME. I SAID, “WE’RE GOING TO GO FROM JAIPUR TO KNIGHTSBRIDGE AND NO IN-BETWEEN”.

“THE FIRST SHOP IN BEACHAMP PLACE TRADED FOR A FEW MONTHS WITHOUT ANY NAME. I WANTED A NAME THAT WAS NOT ENGLISH. IN THE END I CHOSE A NAME THAT I WAS ASSOCIATED WITH, BECAUSE I WAS ACTUALLY BORN IN A MONSOON IN SRI LANKA.”

*THIS IS AN EXTRACT FROM ECO CHIC: THE SAVVY SHOPPER’S GUIDE TO ETHICAL FASHION BY MATILDA LEE, HAMLYN, 2007

Monsoon Estethica DPS.indd 1-2 03/02/2009 15:29 Marie Claire highlights fashion labels and designers that offer an ethical edge to environmental or people-practises in every edition. Its Fashion with Heart philosophy stems from Marie Claire’s belief that women want to combine ethics with aesthetics, be fashionable and glamorous, but care about the world around them. in association with

This page: dress Goodone, shoes Beyond Skin Opposite page: jumpsuit Loved for Longer at Oxfam Boutiques This page: silk dress worn Photographer: Helena Kouzeleas as top Ciel, trousers People at www.sarahkaye.com Tree, belt Oxfam, gold necklace Stylist: Lucia Debieux for Marie Claire Fifi Bijoux, silver bangle Wright Hair and make-up: Irena Rogers and Teague Loved for Longer at using Aveda hair products Oxfam Boutiques and Organic Glam make-up Model: Julia Schweitzer @ mandpmodels Opposite page: top Noir, skirt Anatomy, silver bangle Wright and Teague Loved for Longer at Oxfam Boutiques Women on Sustainability Dilys Williams Becky Earley Matilda Lee interviews eleven inspirational women for their opinions on ethical and sustainable fashion

Wendy Dagworthy

Dilys Williams, director of the Centre for Eco fashion shouldn’t be a separate issue. Sustainable Fashion at the London College It should be incorporated into the whole of Fashion fashion industry. It’s about being aware of the global environment and addressing some The Centre for Sustainable Fashion’s of the issues in a modern, desirable way. researchers are exploring new territory and Becky Earley, research fellow at the Textile You can’t force designers into being ethical at the same time engaging Masters students Environment Design project (TED) at the and eco, the main task is to make people –which is a two-way street, as students and Chelsea College of Art more aware – it’s up to them. You don’t researchers benefit from new knowledge want people to feel guilty. It shouldn’t be as it unfolds. A project we spearheaded TED in its broader sense has seven remits something designers have to do, but want involving Defra, the Indian government and for textile designers in its work. It’s a toolbox to do. Pearl Academy of Fashion in Delhi, will bring of design solutions that will challenge Being involved in London Fashion Week has together students from five different courses designers to create textiles that will have a taught me a lot over the years. The whole in the UK to research Indian textiles and map reduced impact on the environment. problem has been production, it needs more the sustainability criteria of different textiles. What excites me is that there is so much Wendy Dagworthy, head of the Royal support. In Italy, the Milanese government We are doing a call-out to designers to get potential for reusing polyester almost College of Art’s School of Fashion and has put a lot of money into supporting involved (please email n.baldwin@fashion. indefinitely. There is little research on Textiles, and one of the founders of London production. The London Development arts.ac.uk) reprocessing synthetic textiles. It’s totally Fashion Week Agency’s new team is a good starting point. The fashion industry, we discovered, really versatile. You could chop it up, extrude it and Whether it’s enough remains to be seen. wants a one-stop shop to tackle the issues melt it again. There is no formula for recognising talent. Britain has 3,000 to 4,000 designers leaving we face. In this vein, we provide resources, a The first thing we get asked is ‘where can When looking at a designer’s portfolio, school every year. We’re too small a country direct consultancy and a navigating service. we get fabrics’. We’ve collected samples, sketch books are the most interesting to hold all those graduates. They need to go We are in a neutral position and so we can information and case studies on many, part. One aspect of talent is translating an where the money is, which isn’t necessarily help provide guidelines to steer people. many eco fabrics, and we offer info back to idea into something new, innovative and a bad thing, because it’s made Britain aware ‘London Style’ is a new project working students, but there is a big need to provide desirable. No-one ever knows what people of the value of its designers. We have some with 100 SMEs (up to 250 employees) in this service for designers. want to buy, the public has to wait until the of the best education in the world – it’s an London to make them more sustainable. We come at it very conceptually: it can’t just designer comes up with it. asset of ours. It’s not only about changing design, we will be about textiles; you are really dealing with perform diagnostics at the beginning and issues of consumption. We are asking more look at things like water use and beyond. We of designers; we are asking them to be an are putting a call out for businesses to get activist – creating change through action, not involved (email above). through objects.

10 Interview Interview 11 Sindhu Venkatanarayanan Livia Firth Sam Robinson Lucy Siegle Photo: Claire Meharg Claire Photo:

Sindhu Venkatanarayanan, Sam Robinson, co-founder of the Lucy Siegle, journalist and broadcaster founder of DeviDoll.com Livia Firth, creative director of Eco Age Cross Boutique London At a base level, a lot of design is meant Coming out of the corporate world, where Dealing every day with people’s houses and We sell fashion but are driven by colour and straight for landfill. Ethical fashion is long- I used to do a lot of very high-end shopping, textiles at Eco Age (in Chiswick, London), I fabrics, and not changing hemlines. I think term in view. The most pressing problem is I came across Del Forte jeans while roaming naturally started to think about clothes. I’ve anything that is high fashion will go out of that there is a massive labour and human around Estethica, and found the concept been working with Oxfam for many years on fashion. rights issue endemic in fashion. Sometimes behind organic cotton and ethical business trade, so have been aware of ethical and fair For the past 12 years I’ve met Dosa designer public awareness of this is within our grasp; fascinating. The idea of buying fashionable trade issues. Christina Kim in Milan to buy her collection. sometimes it recedes. clothes that were doing more than just Inevitably, because ethical fashion is not In the past couple of years, she’s committed When promoting ethical issues it is really making me look good seemed intuitively mass-produced and has a smaller demand, to being completely organic and using important to make green and ethical right, but then there was nowhere I could go prices are high. But it’s alright as long as recycled. It’s really inspiring. Her enthusiasm consumer behaviour seem attainable to to shop. I thought, ‘We need a ‘Brown’s of people realise that by paying a bit more they is infectious. the public. We really need to avoid having ethical fashion’ – that’s when I began looking are buying something to love and nurture. It is difficult to find people that are able to consumers buy into it just being posh people into it. I launched DeviDoll in November 2007. If you buy a skirt for £12 or £20, why would stick to an ethical ethos – a lot of people doing things. Journalists need to My business tips? Be available to your you care for it? If something is expensive aren’t. The recession has been liberating be cheerleaders. customers. Because it’s online, you do have because it is good quality, it will last. because it has made us question the labels I’ve always been into fashion. I was to do more than put up pretty pictures. The ’12 degrees of ethical fashion’ will run we buy. We are thoughtful about what we influenced by Vivienne Westwood and the Respect the intelligence of your customers for 12 months, starting in February 2009. buy, often purchasing smaller labels. ‘Radical Fashion’ exhibition at the V&A. – they can get an organic cotton T-shirt We decided to create a collaborative series Ethical fashion as a label doesn’t turn me This was thinking fashion that wanted to anywhere. Make sure the fashion is there. of one-month pop-up ‘shops’ that explore off, but I guess there is a certain look that change the world, yet no-one accused it of If you don’t have patience to explain things, and present the many complexities around comes with that. At the same time there being elitist. I don’t know if you’re doing ethical fashion ‘ethical’ fashion. So there’ll be collections is a reaction to mass-produced; people Defra’s clothing roadmap is interesting – any favours. based on organic cotton, recycled, Fairtrade, want one-offs, really creative designs. I am it’s driven through by people determined What if… we retailers put our heads make-your-own and ‘heritage’. delighted that it’s not any more about having to make something out of it. But we are together and started our own mini eco www.eco-age.com an ‘it’ bag. also being told by the Government to Dover Street Market. When I was growing up We’ve been in the business 13 years and ‘shop for the economy’, which means that in India, five fingers together were not very seen many trends. When we started it was slow consumption makes you an enemy of strong, but as a fist they become very strong. craft-based, and craft was a dirty word – just the state. Eco fashion should do that. in the same way as organic. 12 Interview Interview 13 Deborah Orr India Knight Jayne Pickering

Deborah Orr, columnist at India Knight, Sunday Times columnist and author of The Thrift Book Ethical fashion is something that isn’t globalised and racking up huge amounts of air miles, made by people very far removed The difficulty with eco friendliness is that from the consumer. It’s about not buying it can appear so unfriendly. I think it’s clothes put together by people that have important not to have a hectoring tone absolutely no conception of how you live. – people often feel slightly lectured. Ethical fashion always embeds human There’s been a complete revolution in values, there is no disconnect between the ethical fashion in the past five years, where people that make the clothes and the people not only do you think planet-wise it’s a good Photo: Clara Blomqvist Clara Photo: that wear them. So the fashion maintains idea, but also you begin to discover you want a sense, the values of human connection is to wear as if it were in a department store. Jayne Pickering, Marie Claire fashion director part of the value of the garment. It’s where The eco aspect is the cherry on the cake. the price reflects all aspects of what has What I really wish is that ethical clothing The thinking behind Marie Claire’s ‘Fashion gone into the garment: air miles, standards was available more widely. As far as I’m with Heart’ was to promote ‘investment of living and the place it’s made. aware it’s not in department stores – it’s buys’ among our readers, rather than things I’m not against things being reasonably not out there nearly enough. It seems big that you are going to buy very cheaply and priced – there are limits to budget retailing. retailers are missing a trick, since whenever then throw away. In our fashion shoots, we People are encouraged to disregard values people see it they love it. It’s a best-kept don’t use high-street labels that still employ that are important to them. secret. It ought to be more widely available. child labour. We are not using cheap brands With the recession, eco fashion won’t go I took to the idea of thrift grudgingly, just for the sake of cheapness. away, but it will be difficult. Recessions thinking it was more like torture, but to my Designers who imbed social integrity in are unpredictable. It will help make some amazement, it’s been very enjoyable. their designs and clothes are very ‘now’. businesses more robust – it’s a different I think the era of the mindless Saturday It’s about more than just using sustainable recession to any we have experienced, and afternoon ‘let’s go to Primark and buy five fabrics – it’s in their attitudes. there will be some parts of the economy that pieces of crap’ is over. We’ve all got enough Our ‘Eco chic goes glam’ cover in June 2008 will be restructured. Recessions force change things to feel bad about already; fashion was one of our bestselling issues and ethical fashion could benefit from that. shouldn’t be added to the list. Ethical fashion is definitely the way It’s difficult to say how, though. forward, and some of the designers involved have come quite far. 14 Interview Interview 15 Dorothy Maxwell Curators’ letter

Welcome to Estethica’s sixth season

Last season we had success throwing light We should be excited about buying better – removing the biggest impacts and giving on the ‘green’ issue - being green, buying quality clothes, and not perpetuating an more options to consumers to shop smart. green, green benefits... - so, this season we endless cycle of ‘disposable’ items that fill are tackling the ‘grey’ issue. Not the cool our wardrobes and our landfills. Buy cheap, Since the credit crunch, we haven’t lost one grey that is the colour of the moment, but and someone or the environment is paying stakeholder who signed up to an action, the difficult grey that is being stuck in a grey the price. which means the sustainability issue will area, neither black nor white, forgotten survive the recession. In the 1980s, when in between. Because the momentum and Estethica is high end fashion without the economy slowed down there was no talk excitement generated by ethical fashion compromise, a celebration of the talents about the environment – it completely fell have raised a fundamental question: we and the commitments that are pioneering a off the agenda. It’s different now that there know its here to stay, but where? new definition of luxury. A new concept, a Dorothy Maxwell co-ordinates the is a business case. Sustainable Clothing Roadmap for Defra new alternative, a new idea and a new breed Too expensive to compete with the High of emerging labels that are inventing a new Street and not quite glossy enough to be language. The Clothing Roadmap launched in high end luxury, eco brands are dwindling September 2007, and initially our aim was The Sustainable Clothing Action both ways, defining their identity at a time of In our search for sophistication, eco-fashion to establish facts about the environmental Plan (SCAP) launch at Esthetica radical global changes. can be accused of not being sexy or glossy and social impacts of clothing, and bust Lord Hunt, Defra’s sustainability minister enough, but , in these difficult economic myths. We started out with stakeholders Estethica’s aim is to make their voice times, the desire for luxury is becoming from 100 organisations, and now nearly The action plan has been drawn up heard and to pave the way towards a new increasingly tasteless, so showing-off your 350 organisations are involved. The next collectively by leading names in fashion, mentality and new conscience within the fabulous ‘it’ bag is no longer a fashion milestone was to establish where the manufacturing and retail, and has been fashion industry. statement, but a statement that you really roadmap could take action, what was care very little. genuinely needed. Over eight months we co-ordinated by the Government. SCAP Ethical fashion is not too expensive. ‘Cheap’ developed an action plan, which involves 30 outlines commitments to make fashion clothes are too cheap. As unacceptable The next step will be to struggle out of the organisations that signed up to 60 different more sustainable throughout its lifecycle working conditions at home and abroad ‘grey’ area, challenging stereotypes and actions. We’ll track the implementation of – from design and manufacture to retail are feeding our insatiable and unjustified preconceptions and understanding the these actions, disseminate the information and disposal – and champions the reuse need to fill our wardrobes with inexpensive dilemmas faced by those designers that are so that the rest of the sector can benefit and recycling of clothes. Approximately garments every week, ethical labels should committed to creating new design solutions – both in the short and long-term. 1.5 million tonnes of unwanted clothing take pride in being more expensive, when for a better future - not trying to emulate ends up in landfill in the UK each year. that extra margin is buying water, education, something that they were born to antagonize There isn’t always a conflict between the Many of the actions pledged by those emancipation and freedom. but instead making their own mark; not need to encourage consumer spending to involved are already underway and will waiting for style to develop substance but help grow the economy and to promote have marked effect on the environmental designing substance’s own style. shopping in a more informed way. An impact of ‘throwaway fashion’. increase in consumption through progressive retailers is a good thing. For the non- converted retailers, we’d like to see more action on labour and environmental issues *** 16 Interview 17 ready-to-wear ADA ZANDITON ANATOMY

Inspiration for Ada Zanditon’s autumn/ Anatomy’s AW09 collection takes inspiration winter 2009 (AW09) collection began with from the couture of the 1950s New Look, the book Soil and Soul by Alastair McIntosh, with sculptured silhouettes and sharp a Scottish author who wrote about his tailouring. The lines are feminine and involvement in a community campaign to flattering, and texture, pattern and cut all prevent unwanted corporate development. combine to create a classic English Anatomy Reminiscing about ecology and community style. There are Scottish wool tweed jackets while evoking ancient England and Scotland, and coats, organic wool sweater dresses Ada attempts to bring together ‘community, with beatnik chic to wear over narrow silk spirit and place’. cigarette pants, frivolous skirts and tops with truffle trims, and sexy silk cocktail dresses. The collection is grounded in her inspirational sources, the use of wovens in the UK – such as alpaca from England, silk ‘A womenswear label that ‘A touch of retro chic and glamour woven by Vanners, and wool from Scotland values elegance balanced with combined with contemporary and Wales. These then flow into the design avant garde design and a core design’ via Celtic symbolism and spirituality, the concept of sustainability’ bardic tradition, megalithic architecture (a purity and rawness in stones), ancient warrior tribes and fierce characters such as Boudicca, a warrior queen.

www.adaz.co.uk www.anatomy.co.uk 18 19 ARTICLE 23 CONSCIOUS DESIGNERS COLLECTIVE (CDC)

LUCY TAMMAM

This season’s influence is drawn from chrysalides, with gold-toned fabrics and clothing wrapping the body to accentuate the curve of the female form, which, contradicted by a vision of modern architecture, creates the abstract angular shapes with emphasis on shoulders and waist. These two opposites twined together create shapes that are restricted by straps and sharp tailoring. Tammam is launching the ‘Tammam White’ wedding gown line in March 2009. Tammam has developed exclusive eco fibres and fabrics, including an organic-certified wild peace-silk satin, soft and luxury banana and hemp-blend yarn, and an eco, vegan interlining for traditional tailored pieces.

‘Beautifully made, perfectly cut, tailored separates and outerwear’ www.tammam.co.uk

Elena Garcia

The theme and inspiration behind the AW09 collection, Elena Garcia says, is Queen Victoria’s mourning outfits and Daphne Article 23’s AW09 collection is inspired by Guinness, who ‘has a fab way of putting Sherlock Holmes. The collection is a mix outfits together’. Elena’s signature pieces use between ‘British’ elegance and a falsely felting on silk to make beautiful camisoles, neglected dandyism. Designer Naia Rico blouses and wraps. marries sportswear and eveningwear in a strong, graphic black and white collection ‘Sustainable luxury, hand- that is underlined by an exciting accent crafted garments in carefully of colour. The label is named after Article ‘A commitment beyond style’ selected fabrics that mix the 23 of the Declaration of Human Rights. ethereal with the rough, the The collection is produced in India by a traditional techniques with women’s co-operative. the modern interpretation’

www.article-23.com www.elenagarciastudio.com 20 21 CIEL LTD DEL FORTE

For AW09, Del Forte focused on what it does best: super-flattering fits with beautiful details. ‘I revisited several of our top-selling silhouettes, such as our original boot-cut and our skinny leg, and updated them to capture the feeling of understated elegance that runs through the collection,’ says designer The AW09 Ciel story begins with silver tones Tierra Del Forte. ‘I used a lot of incredible of undyed organic alpaca knits, dripping with enamel and metal hardware, and touches fringes of crystalised fire and ice, satin jeans ‘Ciel uses the best-quality organic of gold and silver that really pop on the and tops. Ciel is led by designer Sarah Ratty, cotton, silks, eco fabrics and baby rich, saturated washes I developed for the the ethical fashion pioneer behind Conscious alpaca to create its own unique ‘Del Forte Denim is sexy, season.’ This season’s styles were designed Earthwear. Sarah incorporates ethical and organic luxury’ so that they work well both casual and environmental considerations in various take on edgy but romantic womenswear’ dressed up. The Poppy, a mid-rise skinny aspects of her collections: from guidelines cut, works with Converse and a hoodie, but on using low-wash temperatures to reduce also looks fantastic with your hottest boots energy emissions, to her ‘future heirloom’ and a luxe top. The Sorrel, a low-rise wide range of timeless modern designs that can leg, looks sophisticated with a blazer and be built on each season. heels, and just as great with trainers and a slouchy sweater. www.ciel.ltd.co.uk www.delforte.com 22 23 ELOISE GREY ENAMORE

Lady P is the new collection from Enamore, inspired by the strength and style of the leading lady from cult classic puppet series Thunderbirds. The Lady P collection, designed by Jenny Ambrose and Tamsin Weston, includes the Penelope Flair dress made from a beautifully With influence from the fine tailoring of the woven Ahmisa peace silk; Evie, an easy- 1930s and 40s, and mid-century writers such to-wear bamboo jersey dress available in as Simone de Beauvoir, Samuel Beckett and ‘Fine clothing that embodies black, leopard-print or cream, and versatile Evelyn Waugh, Eloise Grey’s first collection ‘Enamore is a high-quality UK stewardship of the land and separates made from a blend of hemp, wool to be shown at estethica pays homage to fashion label creating inspiring and Tencel. respect for the garment- Virago Modern Classics’ writers, with skirts and sustainable womenswear, Catarina Vassalo has been working with named after Rebecca West and Antonia makers’ lingerie and accessory collections’ Enamore to create an accessories collection, White. ‘I find the works and especially including jewellery, corsages, hats and photographs of such writers inspiring. There scarves that compliment the clothing range. is some independence of spirit and belief Enamore is also offering three distinct new that was arresting,’ says Eloise. ranges of lingerie.

www.eloisegrey.com www.enamore.co.uk 24 25 ENVIRONMENTAL JUSTICE FOUNDATION ETHICAL FASHION FORUM The Ethical Fashion Forum (EFF) is the UK’s industry body for ethical fashion. This season, the EFF will be building on its support for new fashion designers with the launch of a major competition entitled INNOVATION. The competition will seek out and promote the best new emerging design talent. Supported by the London Development Agency. www.ethicalfashionforum.com MIA

Inspiration for the label MIA came from designer Mia Nisbet’s time spent in Malawi. In the street markets locals sell copious amounts of secondhand clothing, which are donated and imported from the western world. ‘The sheer volume of clothes was astounding,’ says Mia. ‘It became apparent EJF’s T-shirt collection is created with print that these clothes markets would be a great designs by Zandra Rhodes, Giles Deacon, place to source clothes for my recycled collection. By producing the range in Malawi Allegra Hicks and John Rocha on the theme ‘MIA is a collection of clothing that fuses of ‘childhood, lost innocence and hope’ I am creating much-needed employment for local tailors, and thereby strengthening the recycled fabrics with traditional Malawian to represent more than a million children textiles to produce a collection that

Photo: Jane McLeish-Kelsey Jane McLeish-Kelsey Photo: local economy.’ forced to work in cotton-production around combines the richness of African textiles the world. As part of a greater collection www.miabydesign.com with Western styling’ which includes exclusive designs by Luella, Christian Lacroix, Katharine Hamnett and Betty Jackson, the T-shirts are 100 per RAEBURN DESIGNS cent organic cotton, printed with certified organic inks and are used to raise awareness Christopher Raeburn is the founder of and funds for EJF’s campaign, ‘Pick Your Raeburn Designs, a men’s and womenswear Cotton Carefully’, to help end abuses linked label that focuses on functional beauty in to global cotton-production and promote the 21st-century cityscape. Launched in organic cotton. ‘EJF is gathering unstoppable force as 2008, Christopher’s work was handpicked for EJF is looking for adventurous volunteers to ‘Camouflage’, an exhibition at the Imperial embark on ‘The Great Fashion Cycle’ from the fashionistas’ “charity of choice” War Museum in London. He showcased a London to to raise funds and awareness as it continues to inspire some of the capsule collection of reversible garments, for its work addressing abuses in the fashion world’s most celebrated designers in entitled ‘Inverted’ at London Design Festival industry, such as forced child labour in support of its campaign’ in 2008, and was recently featured in Hywel cotton fields. People will be able to learn Davies’s book, 100 New Designers. more and register for the ride at London A 2006 graduate of the Royal College of Art, Fashion Week or online. Raeburn is known for his trademark use ‘Staunchly British, all Raeburn garments of fabrics sourced from decommissioned are proudly “Remade in England” and European military stock – whether produced in East London’ parachutes, uniforms or tents. www.ejfoundation.org www.raeburndesign.co.uk 26 27 FROM SOMEWHERE GOODONE

Mixing body con with an oversized From Somewhere, recycling since 1997, silhouette, making clothes that are sexy is a creative sustainable fashion label but not slutty, desirable and obtainable, run by Orsola de Castro and Filippo Ricci. Goodone presents its first collection at Womenswear collections are made with estethica. In November 2008, Goodone was luxury designer pre-consumer waste – chosen as one of three finalists for the RE: such as proofs, swatches, production New Designer of the Year award. Goodone off-cuts and end of rolls – up-cycling designs and produces innovative, quality, high-end fashion and textile surplus into one-off clothing, which is made from hand- beautiful clothes that take into account the picked, locally sourced, recycled fabrics. balance between consumption and disposal. Goodone is currently working on an exciting Reproducible in large numbers, while still project with ‘Fashion Targets Breast Cancer’, retaining elements of the unique, each up-cycling all its past T shirts into limited piece is individually cut from high-quality ‘From Somewhere rethinks edition black and white dresses, to be reclaimed fabrics including knitwear, the fashion industry’s rubbish, launched in April. cashmere, cotton shirting, silks, jerseys, reclaiming and up-cycling ‘Goodone exceeds peoples’ tweeds and wovens. The operating principle as a design solution to an expectations of what recycled behind the label is simple: what happens to environmental problem’ clothing can be, by creating the fashion’s industry’s production surplus garments that don’t look obviously and leftovers at the end of each season? In October 2008, From Somewhere won the recycled and which are directional Designer of the Year and Innovation RE:Use yet wearable’ award at the RE:Fashion Awards. www.fromsomewhere.co.uk www.goodone.co.uk 28 29 IVANA BASILOTTA IZZY LANE

This collection has a neat, cosy ‘1970’s goes to the country’ theme. Luxurious chunky handknits in Wensleydale wool, with Ivana Basilotta’s AW09 collection is dedicated comfy skirts, fitted zipped jackets and coats to ‘our magnificent star Jupiter,’ she says. whose dyed colours contrast beautifully ‘Izzy Lane is the voice for animals in Jupiter is universally known as the planet with the rugged and natural Shetland hues. vibrating bliss, harmony and happiness. the fashion industry, and is ethically Beautiful handmade vegetarian shoes and The collection is a reminder to get Jupiter ‘Entirely dedicated to the best in and sustainably Made in Britain’ knee-length go-go boots in faux snake and located on our mental dials. The fabrics eco-sustainable contemporary crocodile skins. are soft and gentle, the styles noble and high fashion’ Izzy Lane won the RSPCA Fashion Company the dealings honorable – just some of the Good Business award in October 2008 and characteristics of Jupiter. As humans, we the Best New Designer/Business at the RE raise our vibrations by creating beautiful, Fashion Awards in November 2008. Founder elevated thoughts. This is when we are Isobel Davies has just a become patron of tuning in to Jupiter, the station of power, the Vega Trust. good fortune and abundance. www.ivanabasilotta.co.uk www.izzylane.com 30 31 MAKEPIECE MARK LIU

Mark Liu’s latest collection is inspired by a phenomenon called the ‘singularity point’. It is a moment when a system becomes self- This season brings stunning shapes, redolent aware of its own limitations and eventually of romance, unexpected knits, rich colours rewrites its own rules to take control of its and winter softness, all made sustainably in own destiny. ‘I have applied this principle to the UK from British wool – from Makepiece’s the fashion system to make environmentally own sheep. friendly changes through innovations in Roses grow out of winter dresses, while tailoring and textiles,’ he says. ‘Some of the ‘Beautiful, desirable design, dramatic ruching creates warmth and changes were so dramatic that most of the stylish silhouettes. Filmy layers of open sustainable knitwear, made garments in the collection were constructed knits add glamour, with chunky scarves for in England from a Pennine without even using a sewing machine.’ His substance. Makepiece takes natural yarns, landscape and our own latest Zero Waste collection also explores raised sustainably, spins them as locally as sheep’ environmentally conscious printing with ‘A pioneer of “Zero Waste” organic fabrics and water-based pigments. possible and knits within the community, ’ using as few chemical processes as possible, Mark Liu is the Artist in Residence at the to produce a finished product that can be London Printworks, kindly funded by the treasured for years. Leverhulme Trust, and was shortlisted for the 2008 RE:Fashion New Designer of the Year award. www.makepiece.co.uk www.markliu.co.uk 32 33 MINNA NUMANU

Inspired both by the aesthetic of the 1920s and German Expressionist film, for AW09, Numanu Label of Love focuses on structured cuts in soft organic fabrics, creating a look that is at once feminine, sophisticated and modern. Volumes play on structure and fullness, fabric falling to create deep décolletés and occasionally-

Photo: Francois Rocquemont Francois Photo: revealed shoulders. Voluptuous cotton voile complements the delicacy of silk twill, while This season Minna brings together a cotton satin thickens and combines with ‘grown-up’ look with luxurious lace/wool wool to envelop the wearer in the gentle mixes, cropped wool jackets made with warmth of full-collared coats, and art deco British wool and fitted dresses made from ‘Resolutely creative, numanu mar- curved embroideries highlight the clean and recycled fabrics. Minna celebrates strong, ries the sense of well-being offered minimalist architecture of the cuts. In 2009, Numanu will source high-quality sexy silhouettes with the hourglass shape as by natural and organic fabrics with organic cotton directly from Indian farmers a starting point. It all started in the beautiful a contemporary urban aesthetic for Dorset countryside, where Finnish designer in southern Karnataka, ensuring absolute women seeking an experience that is transparency in the cotton supply chain, and Minna Hepburn started collecting lace, ‘Timeless pieces that will brooches, buttons and other beautiful finds as meaningful as it is pleasurable’ supporting health and education projects in remain stylish beyond from strolling around local antique markets. the farming communities through a planned Not really knowing what to do with them, seasonal trends’ profit-sharing scheme. she started making tops and dresses from Scottish lace and embellishing them with her beloved findings. www.minna.co.uk www.numanu.com 34 35 OXFAM PEOPLE TREE

‘People Tree is the pioneer of 100% Fair Trade fashion’ Photo: Jourdan wearing Oxfam Loved for Longer, styled by Katie Shillingford and photographed by Rankin and photographed Shillingford Katie by styled Longer, for Loved Oxfam wearing Jourdan Photo:

Oxfam is launching ‘Sustain Me’, a campaign that promotes loving fashion for longer, at Estethica during London Fashion Week. This collaboration between world-renowned ‘I love the idea of recycling People Tree’s AW09 collection combines fashion photographer Rankin, leading stylist clothing. To give those once- styles to achieve an urban/folk mix including Katie Shillingford and some of the top talents cherished items a longer draped dresses, spot jacquards, recycled in fashion, music and film, presents a series of existence is just great. It’s also yarns, lace and appliqué embroideries. fashion-forward imagery. Clothing hand-picked an essential tool for Oxfam to Prints including kimono references, from Oxfam’s recycling plant, Wastesaver, has continue tackling poverty in checks and florals come in vibrant pop been restyled to produce stylish and trend-led the world. I love working with reds, midnight blues and magentas to looks. ‘Customers have been scouring our shops Rankin – and this is a great more muted lavenders, stones and beige for great value and unique pieces of clothing and collaboration with Oxfam’ mélange. People Tree’s design and credibility accessories,’ says Sarah Farquhar, head of retail continues to attract big names to its designer at Oxfam. ‘This increased demand is one of the – Heidi Klum collaborations. For AW09, the company is reasons behind the Sustain Me campaign and our delighted to welcome Eley Kishimoto and appeal for donations. Our research indicates that Karen Nicolls. there is £4.7 million worth of unused clothing that could potentially be sold to raise money to help those in poverty.’ www.oxfam.org.uk www.peopletree.co.uk 36 37 PROPHETIK REET AUS

AW09 brings Prophetik’s Impulsion collection, which focuses on slow fashion moving forward but with wisdom and substance. ‘Our charity focus is on land conservation, both in our home state of Tennessee and in Thailand, where we are After graduating in fashion design from the ‘Wearable philosophy… inspired euro Estonian Academy of Arts in 2002, designer working with the Asian Elephant Art and streetwear that serves a purpose and Conservation Project in raising funds to buy Reet Aus opened her own studio. In the is a visual manifestation of art, love, land for the elephants,’ says designer Jeff summer of 2005 she launched a collection Garner. ‘Our partners train the elephants poetry and the freedom found from made from natural fabrics, and in 2006 she to paint on our organic silk fabric, which we within’ introduced the ‘ReUse collection’, made ‘Slow fashion. Beautiful clothes’ turn into dresses to sell for the cause,’ In from old, mass-produced, fast-fashion the past year, Prophetik has designed stage clothes and leftovers. With her latest outfits for the Jonas Brothers for their ‘Little collection, she says, ‘I found out that jeans Bit Longer’ tour. are the world’s most popular clothing items and also a major waste source. I decided to take this waste and turn it into beautiful clothes people want to wear’. www.prophetik.com www.reetaus.ee 38 39 RITA HRAIZ IN MUDRA SAMANT CHAUHAN

Samant Chauhan’s AW09 collection is dedicated to that unsung hero, the silkworm. In the production of normal silk, the silkworm is immersed in boiling water to kill the silk work & spool the silk yarn. With ‘non-violent’ silk, produced in Bhagalpur, India, the cocoons are left alone for seven to 10 days. Once the worms mature, they are allowed to pierce the cocoons and fly away as moths. Only then does the manufacture of peace silk begin. Each cocoon is checked individually to ensure that the moth has escaped before the silk thread is spun. ‘I aim to promote Bhagalpur the world over by bringing the Bhagalpuri silk to the fore and facilitating its entry into the domestic and global mainstream markets,’ Samant Rita Hraiz in Mudra focuses on comfort, says. The silhouettes in this collection are ease and nurturing through high-quality structured, feminine and body-flattering, cashmere that is ethically produced. with the emphasis on texturing to beautify Winning Best Brand at So Ethic in Paris in the silk fabric to the superlative. ‘Voluptuous everyday sensuality 2008, awarded by Neo Planet magazine, is ‘The marriage of Eastern aesthetics In December 2008, Samant was runner-up at ‘truly exciting from the perspective that the for women’ with Western styles’ the Young Fashion Entrepreneur of the Year Tibetan and Mayan prayers that we put on Awards, organised by the British Council, for our swing tickets, wishing deep peace for all his work with non-violent silks and providing humanity, are being recognised,’ says Rita. employment to a large number of people in In November, Rita opened a new shop in rural India. Walton Street, London SW3.

www.mudracashmere.com www.samantchauhan.net 40 41 STEWART+BROWN Accessories ANTONELLO

‘Designer Antonello Tedde creates new meaning for centuries-old ‘Grow your own’ is the theme for Sardinian aesthetic and stylistic Antonello’s new AW09 handbag collection is Stewart+Brown’s AW09 collection, rich in detailing and influenced by couture. which means do great things with what traditions that has its roots in a time-tested handicraft culture’ Once again his theme is inspired by Sardinian resources you have available, step up to villages, from which each bag takes a name. the new area of personal responsibility and Colours reflect the mood of modern life: independent accountability, and lead with from black and yellow, to cream, red and creativity and originality. ‘Stewart+Brown – be good, be relevant, be yourself’ green, with an emphasis on discretion and Stewart+Brown founders Karen Stewart with particular attention to linear styles and Howard Brown are looking forward to inspired by architecture. celebrating their son Huxley’s first birthday at the end of February. www.stewartbrown.com www.antonellotedde.co.uk 42 43 BEYOND SKIN BUTCHER COUTURE

In keeping with Butcher Couture’s philosophy of high fashion, high standard, with low impact, its leather eyewear is exclusively handmade in France, using only Beyond Skin’s stylish collection is inspired by organic vegetable-tan leather (i.e. leather daring faux snake skins and faux stingrays – a tanned with plant extract and free of dabble in the wild side! This season, Beyond chrome, pentachlorophenol, benzidin and ‘Butcher Couture is a “progressive” Skin introduce an accessories line of belts ‘Beyond Skin is an exclusive, ethical azo-colorants) and hand-finished with Oeko- fashion label that aims to deliver Tex certified threads (i.e. threads made using and bags, as well as extremely affordable flat footwear label, wildly dedicated to comfy pumps. The pumps are handmade by high fashion, made to high minimal chemicals). Packaging is made from proving that fashion and ethics can an IFAT-certified manufacturer in India, with standards, with low impact to the wood and FSC-certified wood wool, and the organic cotton padded insoles, breathable go hand in hand’ environment’ leather pouch is made from recycled leather linings, natural latex rubber soles and an off-cuts. The sunglasses’ dual design also array of different coloured fabrics. offers the wearer the possibility of removing the leather cover, revealing a sophisticated and stylish rimless design. www.beyondskin.co.uk www.butcher-eyewear.com 44 45 FIFI BIJOUX SONYA KASHMIRI NAHUI OLLIN

Sonya Kashmiri’s AW09 collection was inspired by organic forms in nature. The subtle detailing uses leather as a functional British brand Fifi Bijoux creates its jewellery aspect – for example, to create handles that collection using materials sourced from interlink and provide natural strength. suppliers who uphold positive ethics Sonya Kashmiri combines a modern aesthetic The theme behind Nahui Ollin’s AW09 by avoiding worker mistreatment or with traditional craftsmanship to create a collection is the fusion between form and environmental damage. Gold comes from timeless yet contemporary range of bags, function, and how that promotes one’s mines that have a fair trade policy and purses and belts. All are made from chrome- unique individuality. The main inspiration which are community-owned. Gems are free, vegetable-tanned leather, lined with for the collection comes simply from also sourced from mines with mining organic cotton. candy, in the hopes that, ‘this coming year partnerships and fair trade protocols. Fifi will be much “sweeter” in every way than Bijoux’s AW09 collection is entitled ‘Romany’. last year’. Nahui Ollin recently obtained the licences for Tootsie Roll and Hershey’s, and is now producing branded products from their waste. ‘Uncompromising luxury as it ‘Sonya Kashmiri embraces should be; without the blood, individuality with an emphasis ‘Chic accessories utilising sweat or tears’ on traditional handcrafted 100% recycled materials’ skills, incorporating eco-friendly materials and an overall considered approach to design’

www.fifibijoux.com www.sonyakashmiri.com www.nahuiollin.com 46 47 NINA DOLCETTI VEJA

The AW09 Veja collection was inspired by ‘Veja works directly with small 1970s Brazilian volleyball style – with its Brazilian producers of organic equally urban and vintage feel. From its Themed ‘Macs, Raincoats and Galoshes,’ cotton and wild latex from the traditional range of white to grey, beige and Nina Dolcetti’s AW09 collection celebrates ‘Nina Dolcetti shoes are black, AW09 colours will also include a blue contrasting textures such as nappa and Amazon to make eco and fair designed with only beauty, line and purple palette. Veja trainers are now patent mock-croc in warm, wintry shades of trade trainers’ and form in mind, but made with available in a few select London stores and beige and burgundy. These are striking shoes morals that no-one should be around the UK, including , Poste, in which childishly to splash in puddles on Aimé, Cruise and Oi Polloi. the way to a very grown-up dinner. without’ www.ninadolcetti.com www.veja.fr 48 49 READY TO WEAR FROM SOMEWHERE REET AUS Buyer: Lauren Bonner UK buyers and press: Kersti Mikkov ADA ZANDITON Tel: 020 8960 9995 Tel: 07837 539420 Buyer and press: Ada Zanditon [email protected] [email protected] Tel: 020 7790 3279 Press: Orsola de Castro International Press: Toomas Plunt (buyer) [email protected] Tel: 07767 477206 Tel: +372 569 222 88 (press) [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

ANATOMY RITA HRAIZ IN MUDRA Buyer and press: Jocelyn Whipple GOODONE Buyer and press: Rita Hraiz Tel: 07870 400502 Buyer and press: Nin Castle [email protected] Tel: 020 7249 0199 Tel: 07830 327309 [email protected] [email protected] ARTICLE 23 Buyer and press: Elodie D’Andrea IVANA BASILOTTA SAMANT CHAUHAN Tel: +33 (0) 1 58 39 55 43 Buyer: Jules at Foundation Buyer and press: Samant Chauhan [email protected] Tel: 020 7323 9571/07903 813678 Tel: + 91-98103-00504 Press: Surgery PR Ltd [email protected] CONSCIOUS DESIGNERS COLLECTIVE Elena Garcia Tel: 020 7436 3037 [email protected] STEWART+BROWN Buyer and press: Elena Garcia Buyer and press: Jocelyn Whipple Tel: 07960 648482 Tel: 07870 400502 [email protected] IZZY LANE LUCY Tammam Buyer and press: Lorraine Vine [email protected] Buyer and press: Lucy Tammam Tel: 01748 821116 Tel: 07815 774759 [email protected] ACCESSORIES [email protected] MAKEPIECE CIEL LTD ANTONELLO Buyer and press: Beate Kubitz Buyer: Natalie or Sarah Buyer and press: Antonello Tedde Tel: 01273 900880 Tel: 01706 815888 Tel: 020 7226 2418 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Press: Jojo Cooke at Dust PR Ltd Tel: 020 7836 0440 MARK LIU BEYOND SKIN [email protected] Buyer and press: Mark Liu Buyer: Jackie at The Clear Agency Tel: 07733 011865 Tel: 0845 373 3649 DEL FORTE DENIM [email protected] [email protected] Buyer and press: Jocelyn Whipple Press: Nadia at The Clear Agency Tel: 07870 400502 MINNA [email protected] [email protected] Buyer and press: Minna Hepburn ELOISE GREY Tel: 07796 334197 BUTCHER COUTURE EYEWEAR Buyer: Mica Lamb, Agent For Change Email: [email protected] Buyer and press: Babou Olengha Tel: 07961 110171 Tel: 020 3239 8957 www.agent4change.co.uk NUMANU [email protected] Press: Eloise Grey Buyer Contact: Emmanuel Walliser Tel: 07910 96 3737 Tel : +33 (0)1 42 39 68 69 FIFI BIJOUX [email protected] [email protected] Buyer and press: Vivien : Olivia de Willermin Tel: 0141 339 8943 ENAMORE Tel : +33 (0)1 42 39 68 69 [email protected] Buyer: Amanda Dennes: [email protected] Tel: 01225 833073 NAHUI OLLIN [email protected] Press: Jennifer Ambrose OXFAM Buyer: Element23 / Jocelyn Whipple Tel: 01225 851 004 Buyer: Sasha Phillips Tel: 07870 400 502 [email protected] Tel: 07748 292926 [email protected] [email protected] Press: Evelyn Rosario, Think PR ENVIRONMENTAL JUSTICE FOUNDATION Press: Devetta PR Tel: + 1 212 343 3920 Buyer & Press: Larissa Clark Tel: 020 7739 0309 [email protected] Tel: 020 7359 0440 [email protected] PEOPLE TREE NINA DOLCETTI Buyer: Madeleine King Buyer and press: Nina Dolcetti ETHICAL FASHION FORUM: Tel: 020 7739 9659 Tel: 07772 521517 MIA [email protected] Buyer and press: Mia Nisbet [email protected] Tel: 07734 450315 Press: Antony Waller [email protected] Tel: 020 7739 9569 SONYA KASHMIRI RAEBURN DESIGNS [email protected] Buyer and press: Sonya Kashmiri Buyer: Jocelyn Whipple – Element 23 Tel: 020 8320 2522 Tel: 07870 400502 PROPHETIK [email protected] [email protected] Buyer and press: Sebastian Cole Press: Christopher Raeburn Tel: +1 615 818 9270 VEJA Tel: 07884 284560 [email protected] Buyer and press: Aurélie Dumont [email protected] Tel: 020 3355 8355 (press) [email protected], (buyer) [email protected] 50