NEW YORK BELSTAFF NEW BOWS COLLECTIONS YORK A FIRST LOOK AT THE TOMMY, CAROLINA, THAKOON, NEW BELSTAFF LINE, BASTIAN, THE ROW... COLLECTIONS WHICH WILL SHOW NEW YORK FASHION WEEK IN LONDON THE NEW YORK COLLECTIONS TOOK A FINAL TURN ON THE RUNWAY WITH SHOWS FROM DESIGNERS THIS WEEKEND. SUCHROLLS AS ON.RALPH PAGES LAUREN, 6 TO CALVIN 10 KLEIN, PROENZA SCHOULER AND RALPH RUCCI. PAGES 4 T0 7 PAGE 16

THINKING BIGGER PPR Aims to Triple In Size by 2020

By JOELLE DIDERICH

PARIS — PPR is thinking big. François-Henri Pinault, chairman and chief execu- tive officer of the French group, hopes to triple the size of its core luxury and sport & lifestyle divisions FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2012 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY by the end of the decade and increase revenues to 24 billion euros, or $31.5 billion at current exchange — WWD roughly on a par with the sales posted by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in 2011. Pinault revealed his ambitions for PPR, which is shedding its retail activities to focus on high-growth potential brands like Gucci, Puma and Bottega Veneta, at a press conference following the publica- tion of 2011 results that showed a record 26.4 percent Mara jump in net profit from continuing operations. “Our primary ambition is to build a group with rev- enues of at least 24 billion euros by 2020, with roughly 60 percent generated by the luxury division and 40 percent by sport & lifestyle,” Pinault said. “Our brands are powerful and have considerable Time potential for organic growth, because they are in line with the underlying consumer trends of today: self- “I wear a lot of black,” Rooney Mara fulfillment, a certain hedonism, consumers’ sense of responsibility for their choices and the convergence laughed backstage at the Calvin Klein of tastes from country to country and from generation Collection runway show on Wednesday. to generation,” Pinault added. “You know what, black’s easier.” He said prospects for 2012 were good, despite some economic uncertainty, noting that sales so far The Oscar-nominated star of the this year had maintained their momentum from the “The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo” fourth quarter of 2011. “PPR is confident that 2012 will be another year of sustained revenue growth and may share color preferences with improvements in our operating and financial perfor- Lisbeth Salander, but she proved mances,” the executive said. a touch more sociable than her The European debt crisis has not only hampered consumer spending in the euro zone, but is also drag- trademark character before taking ging out the off-loading of PPR’s mail order business a front-row seat alongside Emma Redcats, after banks last summer withdrew their orig- Stone. In a nice feat of synergy, inal financing deal for potential bidders. PPR group managing director Jean-François Palus the show’s mood was dark said talks continue with less than 10 interested par- and brooding, but some ties, mostly private equity funds, and the sale of of the collection SEE PAGE 16 actually had a softer side with ladylike, Avon Chatter Grows charming looks. For By MOLLY PRIOR more from AS PRESSURE CONTINUES to build at Avon Products the shows, see Inc. and investors grow increasingly impatient, the belea- pages 4 to 7. guered direct se ller could have a new chief executive of- ficer in place by its annual shareholders meeting in May. For more Mara, Momentum seems to be building in the firm’s search see page 14. for a new ceo, with HSN ceo Mindy Grossman continu- ing to dominate industry chatter about who may be the lead candidate. On Dec. 15, WWD first reported that Grossman was seen as a candidate. Other names have surfaced as well, including former Gap Inc. ceo Paul Pressler, and former Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. group president Patrick Bousquet-Chavanne, who also sits on HSN’s board. Both Grossman and Bousquet-Chavanne dismissed the talk with “no comment.” One name industry watchers can cross off the list is former Procter & Gamble Co. veteran Ed Shirley. The former beauty and grooming executive cited P&G’s non- compete policy as the reason that he has not thrown his hat into the Avon ring, although he would have liked to. “I have not talked to Avon because of this,” he said in a telephone interview Wednesday evening. “It’s a great brand. There is a lot going for it, particularly in the emerging markets, where the company plays.” Plans call for Avon’s chairman and current ceo Andrea Jung to assume the executive chairman role once a new ceo is in place. “Names are being thrown around heavily that it leaves me to believe Avon is interviewing people,” PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER SEE PAGE 10 2 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2012 WWD.COM Nordstom Gains With Rack, E-commerce across the full-line, Rack and di- ever, continues to be disappoint- THE BRIEFING BOX By DAVID MOIN rect divisions quarterly. ing, though the company has been On the brick-and-mortar side, experimenting with a new for- IN TODAY’S WWD FOLLOWING A strong year and one full-line store is planned. The mat at stores in Nashville and St. Christmas quarter, Seattle-based company has 117 full-line units Louis. The format has fewer divi- Nordstrom Inc. is boosting invest- and believes it could ultimately sions between departments and a ments in e-commerce, where it operate 125 in the U.S. better flow through women’s. Jared Leto and sees the most growth, as well as in Erik Nordstrom, president of “It’s been a challenging year Lindsey Wixson planning and allocation, and mo- stores, characterized Canada as for us and that prompted some at The Last bile devices. “an attractive market for us. We changes,” said Pete Nordstrom, Magazine party. The company is also sustaining have a lot of customers there, being president of merchandising, refer- heady growth of its Rack outlet di- as close to the border as we are. ring to the women’s apparel busi- vision, with 15 openings planned It’s a healthy retail market but a ness and the January departure of this year on top of last year’s 18, tough real estate market. We think Loretta Soffe, executive vice presi- and for the last year has been dent and general merchandise eyeing Canada for expansion, manager for that area. although getting the right real For the year ended Despite that, Nordstrom’s estate there is tricky. direct business grew close to For the year ended Jan. 28, Jan. 28, Nordstrom’s 30 percent in 2011, and was Nordstrom’s total sales sur- lifted by enhanced service passed $10 billion for the first and free shipping and returns time, and rose 7.2 percent on total sales surpassed launched in September. A a comp-store basis, while the small “pilot” testing same-day SCOTT PHOTO RUDD BY Rack outlets surpassed $2 delivery followed. There will $10 billion for the François-Henri Pinault has big goals for PPR — to triple billion in volume. Net earn- be a $140 million investment its sales by the end of the decade. PAGE 1 ings rose 11.4 percent to $683 first time. in e-commerce this year, rep- million, from $613 million in resenting 30 percent of the 2010. Earnings per diluted share we can learn a lot [in Canada] that total capital budget for the year, Avon Products Inc. could have a new chief executive officer were $3.14, compared with $2.75 a could inform us for expansion after compared to $100 million in 2011. in place by its annual shareholders meeting in May. PAGE 1 year earlier. that. At this point, it is a real estate Nordstrom plans to expand the The fourth quarter net rose question and we haven’t answered online assortment, boost the e- Nordstrom plans to invest in e-commerce, its Rack 1.7 percent to $236 million, or that yet.” Vancouver is likely commerce team with another 400 division and mobile devices in the coming year. PAGE 2 $1.11 a diluted share, compared the first target since it is close to employees, continue to rollout with $232 million, or $1.04, for the Nordstrom’s Seattle base. mobile devices to sales associates The warm weather failed to impede the progress of same quarter a year ago. Same- On the merchandise front, and further customize the custom- The North Face during VF Corp.’s fourth quarter. PAGE 2 store sales rose 7.1 percent to Nordstrom did best in handbags, er engagement online. $3.17 billion, versus $2.82 billion designer labels and cosmetics last The HauteLook Web site, The Jones Group has established the Jones Group in the year-ago period. quarter, while footwear and online owned by Nordstrom, saw a 60 Fashion Office, under the direction of Stefani Greenfield, This year, Nordstrom expects sales overall were robust all year. percent sales gain and a doubling with the purpose of supporting the growth of core and same-store sales to increase 4 to In addition, “regular-price selling of membership to over 7.5 million emerging brands. PAGE 8 6 percent, and earnings per dilut- remains at historically high lev- last year, though the acquisition ed share in the range of $3.30 to els,” said Blake Nordstrom, presi- was a 23-cent drag on earnings Monica Bellucci, who recently returned to her old $3.45. Also, Nordstrom has decid- dent of Nordstrom Inc. last year and is expected to be the home at Dolce & Gabbana, is about to launch a lipstick ed to break out same-stores sales Women’s apparel overall, how- same this year. collection for the house with her name on it. PAGE 10

It was the Ricky (Martin) and the Nicki (Minaj) show Wednesday night at the MAC AIDS Fund celebration. PAGE 12 VF’s North Face Stays Hot in Warm Winter THE NORTH FACE’S SALES proved as resilient Similarly, Wiseman noted, the Lee and Wrangler Ed Hardy is adding to his fragrance business with his-and- in fighting warm winter weather as its jackets have Western jeanswear businesses performed well, “and hers skulls, interpretations of a Hardy tattoo. PAGE 12 been battling the cold, helping to lift parent compa- then there’s the mass jeanswear business where rev- ny VF Corp.’s fourth-quarter profits above expecta- enues were flat and profit was down substantially. When The Last Magazine, J.Mendel and Proenza Schouler all tions despite heightened margin pressure. we saw cost increases coming at us [for 2011], we had to partied on Wednesday night. PAGE 14 Eric Wiseman, chairman, president and chief exec- make a decision about how much to pass along to the utive officer of VF, told WWD that, despite unseason- mass customer who sits at the epicenter of the issue of A handful of Occupy Wall Street demonstrators showed ably warm weather, the outerwear-focused North Face disposable income. We took our prices up about 15 per- up at the Calvin Klein fashion show Thursday afternoon, achieved a 22 percent increase in global revenues in cent, but that wasn’t close to covering the cost of denim.” but showgoers didn’t seem to notice. PAGE 15 the fourth quarter, divided among 24 percent growth As a result, gross margins declined about 400 in the U.S. and volume increases of 12 percent and 41 basis points in the U.S. mass jeanswear business, Nicole Richie has teamed up with QVC to do a line that percent in constant dollars in Europe and Asia, re- dominated by Wrangler’s presence in Wal-Mart, “but will launch Feb. 24. PAGE 16 spectively. He reaffirmed the company’s goal of lifting we gained share and floor space.” The North Face to a $3 billion business in 2015. He expects the pressure on jeanswear margins to The brand’s strength was a highlight of the paces- ease in the second half of 2012 and the company’s gross ON WWD.COM etting performance by the firm’s Outdoor and Action margin to rise about 70 basis points for the full year. Sports Coalition, which saw sales soar 80.6 percent, In the three months ended Dec. 31, net income The Last Magazine Party: There was a palpable air of relief to $1.62 billion, and rise nearly 20 percent exclud- expanded to $258 million, or $2.28 a diluted share, at The Last Magazine dinner party at ACME, which, when ing results for Timberland, acquired in September. against year-ago profits of $55.3 million, or 49 cents. mixed with an enthusiastic vodka sponsor, usually leads Including Timberland, the coalition, the largest of Excluding extraordinary items, such as costs related to to excitement. For more photos, see WWD.com/Eye. the five operated by VF, registered operating profits the Timberland acquisition in last year’s quarter and of $274 million, 51.9 percent higher than in the final impairment charges related to its Contemporary coali- quarter of 2010. tion in 2010, adjusted earnings per share were $2.32, CORRECTION The durability of North Face, coupled with 1 cent higher than analysts projected, versus $1.78 in Due to an editing error, the captions for Marco Bizzarri Timberland’s $713 million contribution to revenues, the earlier quarter. Revenues rose 36.8 percent to $2.91 and Patrizio di Marco were inadvertently transposed helped offset weakness in the company’s jeanswear billion from $2.13 billion, and were up 11 percent on on page 4, Thursday. business, where segment profit dropped 23.1 percent an organic basis. Gross margin fell below estimates, on a 3.4 percent sales gain, to $711.6 million, and dropping 140 basis points to 45.2 percent of revenues. gross margin declined more than expected. Based on the assumption of an average exchange “We talk a lot about the diversity of our business rate of $1.25 per euro, VF projected 2012 EPS of model,” Wiseman told WWD. “In 2008, when the lux- $9.30, below the $9.53 consensus estimate. Wiseman ury sector was struggling, midtier and mass propped said the company shifted its guidance downward WWD. us up. Now, Europe is under pressure but Asia is when the euro dropped against the dollar early in strong. There’s no disproportionate concentration January. Earlier guidance had assumed a $1.30 rate Available in any segment or market.” and been pegged at $9.48. — ARNOLD J. KARR on iPad.® TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 203, NO. 35. FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, * Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement ACCESS IT No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. 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NEW YORK THE February 17, 2012 RUNWAY Hervé Léger by Max Azria Catherine Malandrino Chris Benz REPORT Fur is showing up again and again in the fall 2012 collections, and each incarnation is more innovative and unexpected than the next. Whether used to create playful, luxe accessories, add drama and sophistication to ready-to-wear looks, or construct bold, Bibhu Mohapatra Barbara Tfank Carolina Herrera romantic outerwear, one thing is clear: fur is the luxury fabric of choice among designers.

HERVÉ LÉGER BY MAX AZRIA vintage doll aesthetic, and this season he carried the keen on vintage and current brocades as well as other theme to new heights with remarkable creativity. Giving luscious fabric types. It is a study in remarkable balance. With the highly praised presentation of the BCBG a nod to the glam girls of yesteryear, his collection had This season, she introduced an even stronger fur line-up, collection behind him, Mr. Azria enjoyed another great a hip, retro feel. Once deconstructed, the pieces o!ered with stunning pieces like her snow top shadow fox success with Hervé Léger by Max Azria. What both a more civilian appeal, one much more accessible to jacket—a piece that not only complemented the vintage have in common is a fixed desire for reinvention—the the “pretty young things” of today. Slim pants topped glamour, but also showed a strong hand at design. essential evolution of fashion. This particular collection with white astrakhan pullovers trimmed in contrasting is taking a bold step away from the signature stretch- bright mink were playful, sexy and modern. A favorite bandeau construction so dear to the original namesake. CAROLINA HERRERA piece was a white lamb coat with an ivy green mink The line-up delivered a myriad of slinky and flouncy As expected, Carolina Herrera presented another ode collar—quirky and fabulous. dresses encased in leather corsets or harnesses. The to feminine beauty this season. The textiles, colors, and Pagan influences, enhanced with key fur touches, fit embroideries resonated with chic elegance—and her with the soft-hard duality of the collection. The trompe BIBHU MOHAPATRA e!ective use of feather and fur detail gave the clothes l’œil geometric prints are a nice foil to the hard edge of Bibhu Mohapatra’s runway presentation for fall 2012 the requisite notes of luxury. There was a darker, his accessories. marked a turning point in his career. By successfully edgier feel to the mix with introductory looks in navy introducing more daywear and eveningwear to the and black, lightened up by the inclusion of beautiful CATHERINE MALANDRINO mix, Mohapatra firmly established himself within the abstract prints and tones of lilac and pink. Cropped The Catherine Malandrino Fall 2012 collection was universe of luxury ready-to-wear designers. This man jackets adorning the delicate frames of the models were inspired by the dueling forces of virtue and vice: at is extraordinarily talented: He knows how to work a a keynote this season, worn with pencil skirts or ball once, hard and edgy, yet gorgeously feminine. It is a garment, proving that a fur master is first and foremost gowns to create a longer silhouette. Her broadtail and significant departure from her past collections. Citing a masterful tailor. He understands luxury and how to knit sweatshirt will certainly be a signature piece for the stars of 1940s French cinema as a reference point, bring drama to his creations. For Mohapatra, it is all the season, equally e!ective as a sporty day look or an Malandrino created looks that will take her followers in the details, from sculpted constructions to exquisite elegant evening addition. into another realm of daytime sophistication. The sleek hardware to eye-popping color. As expected, his furs styles, enhanced with high-tech textiles, stretch vinyl were showstoppers—including a fitted ranch mink and MORE FROM THE RUNWAYS and leather, or silks and woolens, define the classy and leather bomber jacket that was among the best we’ve Other notable fur looks included St. John’s knitted seductive femme fatale. Rich, colorful fur accessories and seen this season. Mr. Mohapatra’s clients were ready for mink sweater, falling e!ortlessly o! one shoulder over a trims and key fur accent pieces add softness and drama more, and this season he delivered. wide pant, defining the line’s new “easy chic” direction. to tighten the collection’s story with a bite and a smile. Irina Shabayeva combined luxe fox and rich wool cable BARBARA TFANK knit for an entirely new take on the concept of a stole. CHRIS BENZ “Sultry” is the word used to describe Barbara Tfank’s Chadwick Bell’s silver fox coat was sexy and sophisti- Chris Benz camped it up with his celluloid-inspired Fall 2012 collection, which channels the best stylings of cated, showing that this young designer understands collection for fall 2012. Each model was styled to the polished Joans and Peggys of the 1960s. The textile how to create statement looks. Carlos Miele’s over- represent a silver screen icon, dressed to impress in selection is impeccable as usual, and so are the cuts. To sized fox poncho was cozy, comfy, and indulgent. These looks that defied time. Mr. Benz is known to love the complement her seemingly simple silhouettes, Tfank is designers show how fur can shape a signature style. THE NATURAL, RESPONSIBLE CHOICE

Fur Information Council of America 8424 A Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 860 West Hollywood, California 90069 323.782.1700 www.fur.org 4 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2012 IT’S A Ralph Lauren Proenza Schouler WRAP The New York collections ended on a strong note with ladylike, charming looks, a minimalist streak and, ultimately, beautiful clothes.

Ralph Lauren: In retrospect, it seems odd that it took until the last day of the New York collections for “Downton Abbey” to hit the runway. But then, who better to work that motif than Ralph Lauren, whose multifaceted aesthetic has one plain deeply entrenched in the charms of English country life? Lauren set the refined retro mood with an aged parquet floor, his models emerging from an immense, exquisitely carved dark wood door frame to the strains of the television series’ theme. He opened with casually elegant men’s wear looks all in mixes of the earthen tweeds, plaids and checks that he loves. In a season of major fabric awareness, his combinations felt natural and uncontrived. While the styling played to the Downton nattiness, the pieces were utterly versatile; witness the fact that a leather motorcycle jacket felt as right in the mix as a dapper spencer. As for the coats — fabulous, in a range from herringbones and plaids to ocelot-printed shearling. Wisely, Lauren didn’t stay in the manor too long, and if one wished he’d also pilfered the ladies’ closets more overtly by day, there were still good things to come. The rest of the show was all about the timeless elegance of black and gold. Several looks paired black skirts or pants with gold-embellished sweaters; a long cardigan over a shirt, tie and wide pants had a particular nonchalance. But soigné has a sensual side, which Lauren exposed in curve-hugging dresses and gowns decorated with elaborate beaded collars for that glorious combination of elegant and sexy. His ladies may reside in an abbey, but they’re not nuns.

Calvin Klein Collection: Power. It’s the ultimate aphrodisiac. At Calvin Klein, it’s also a substantial business reality: an American fashion powerhouse and engine behind parent Phillips Van Heusen’s success. That’s the only plausible reason why the Occupy Wall Street movement would plan a march outside Thursday’s Calvin Klein Collection show. In the end, however, the turnout of just a handful protesters was weak. By contrast, the idea of real strength was the central theme for Francisco Costa and his bold fall collection. “It’s very Bauhaus, but about the Bauhaus woman of the 1920s,” he said before the show. “She had strength, she was very powerful.” But Costa’s architectural ode to the strong woman didn’t translate into female warriors. The designer took the theme on with a more subtle hand, sending out appealing clothes in ultrafeminine silhouettes — almost paradoxically so — starting with the first exit: a black wool mohair A-line coat cinched at the waist with a wide silver belt. Another example came with the cropped burnt-orange cashmere sweater worn over a matching shift dress. His use of thick wools resulted in several great FOR MORE PHOTOS coats, but a few of the dresses in similar fabrics AND REVIEWS, SEE looked heavy. Costa added a touch of tough via leather, which was shown, for instance, on a shift WWD.com/ dress with exposed white panelling in the side pleats, runway. and on a sleeveless dress with a black top and a structured white, fluid skirt. The overall effect — the black set, the slow thump of the soundtrack and the models’ graphic hair, slicked sideways or cropped with cut bangs like Rooney Mara, who sat in the front row — was indeed powerful, but the reality of the clothes had a softer side: ladylike and out silhouettes was in, at least at the outset. spoke to the power of the Celine phenomenon, but not charming, even with a Fifties couture touch. The show opened with crisp white cottons in poplin in a literal way. As fantastic as the separates were for jacquard and pique because “we were just bored with their construction and impact, they were challenging Proenza Schouler: It’s no secret that Jack McCollough and wool,” said McCollough during a preview. Big boxy as well, those voluminous proportions not for the Lazaro Hernandez view each runway collection as an jackets, shirtdresses and skirts were fashioned from faint of heart. What could not be overstated were the opportunity to shred their previous show, do something flat, precise layers that folded across the body with extraordinary fabrics — all developed in-house and totally different and knock it out of the park — which uneven hems and workwear details, such as patch custom-made. they did again for fall, providing one of the New York pockets and diagonal zippers; extra-wide-leg pants Once the extreme oversize moment passed, season’s few moments of significant fashion news. sat low on the hips. It made for a powerful sportswear the designers offered more manageable shapes, So spring’s retro kitsch of bustier tops and bad car statement (it went on to include biker leathers) — with including suit jackets and stiff wrap skirts made from interiors was out; a minimalist streak done in maxed- the distinct beat of the audacious urban warrior. It also intricately woven leather in red, black and gold that WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2012 5 WWD.COM

Proenza Schouler Calvin Klein Collection Chado Ralph Rucci

LL 20 FA 12 COLLECTIONS NEW YORK AMIREZ R

ANDY S

AND GIANNONI GIOVANNI CHINSEE, E G GEOR BY PHOTOS

approximated tweed, and drapy lacquered lace tops wedding. They were taken with the colors and patterns is often not evident without a walk-through with the in robin’s egg blue and black that tied at the neck and of the traditional national garb, which inspired the designer himself. “There is no theme here, except for fell open in the back. Seeing clothes so polished and elaborate brocades they used for gorgeous short me,” Rucci explained, adding, “My idea of beautiful expensive-looking still convey a street attitude is what dresses with stiffened, arched hems, and a sweatshirt clothes.” The details said it all: a sculpted leather made it so fabulous. done in quilted silk embroidered with two exotic birds. cocoon jacket over a fur tunic with braided leather The show ended on a distinct Oriental note. “We seaming and leather miniskirt; an intricately crafted weren’t trying to do a Chinese theme or Chinese Chado Ralph Rucci: The extraordinary quality of any leather shell; a Barguzin sable coat that was reversed culture, or anything like that,” said McCollough. Maybe Ralph Rucci collection is evident at first glance. But to its raw pelts and featured Rucci’s own hand-painted not, but the Eastern link was obvious, and it wasn’t the real story this season was his use of fabrics, the calligraphy veiled in tulle. With all this, it was clear, out of nowhere. The designers vacationed in Bhutan thought behind the remarkable silhouettes and the the designer will always love his women sexy — case in October when the country was focused on its king’s complexity of the workmanship — the best of which in point those ultrahot plastic high-heeled boots.

ZD  DLQGG 30  6 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2012

Anna Sui: She’s on a roll. Anna Sui successfully reinvented Anna Sui L’Wren Scott Gant by Michael Bastian her look for fall with a lineup that drew on various Sixties inspirations, including La Liz, whose glamorous lifestyle made a huge impression on Sui. Her resulting collection had an artsy, brainy slant — hold the caftans! — right down to the eyewear. Colors came in fuchsia, orange, turquoise and lime, with a slew of great plaid coats that were adorable paired with Mod-ish shift dresses and skirts. Prints in cherries, florals, blocks, love letters and clocks made frocks and tops look playful, while cocktail numbers in gold checkerboard or satin dot jacquards had just the right dose of retro. Some of it was shown with the accessories Sui designed with Coach, a seamless addition to the fun clothes.

L’Wren Scott: L’Wren Scott conjured England in the early 1900s with beautiful claret velvet and printed silk tea- length dresses, which added a gentle dose of fluidity to the collection and underscored the designer’s stance that her clothes are not just for one body type — hers. “Anyone can wear these,” she insisted. Indeed, this season she opted for a more romantic mood, with sweeping capes, textured fabrics and touches of fur for shrugs and scarves. Referring to her quirkier looks — very high- Gant by Michael Bastian waisted velvet pants and a red ponyskin suit — the designer said, “The L’Wren Scott girl is still irreverent and has a hard edge.” Her rich collection delivered it all — even caviar, which, she playfully noted, was served for lunch to correspond with her new dresses featuring caviar beading.

Gant by Michael Bastian: When it came to his men’s looks, Michael TRA Bastian was in the mood for I M an Eighties Mod revival, but BERT the women’s looked more like O R Ali MacGraw in “Love Story.”

For both, there were tweeds, AND plaids and herringbones, all

accessorized and layered to the TARAZZO A M max in Bastian’s effortless, devil- DD may-care spirit. Men’s wear O T included textured blazers and toggle coats over denim shirts, turtlenecks and skinny cargo NNACCONE, A I pants, shown with trim fedoras, big plastic sunglasses and wing- OMAS tip Creepers. Women’s pants H T came plain, printed or plaid, UINO,

topped with anorak hoodies, Q A ski sweaters and cable-knit FOR MORE PHOTOS

ponchos over striped pullovers JOHN AND REVIEWS, SEE and cotton shirts. There were also charming suits with fitted TONOV,

N WWD.com/ A jackets and short, swingy or runway. wrapped skirts that brought back memories of MacGraw on the PASHA snowy Harvard campus. BY

Elizabeth and James: Ashley and PHOTOS Mary-Kate Olsen held their first presentation for their and the aesthetic, which the equal mind to what they smiling. “It’s about love, it’s Vivienne Tam: One always knows five-year-old contemporary Olsens described as an ongoing consider trend-appropriate — a from the heart,” said Tahari, what to expect from Vivienne collection Elizabeth and play between masculine smart move at the contemporary who personally oversaw this Tam: plenty of Asian-inspired James. The business appears tailoring and feminine élan, level — including great parkas, collection after his executive prints and embroideries. This to have done just fine without have evolved with polish and layering pieces and a brocade creative director left late last season, she called her show a slot on the fashion week considerable range. “It’s a peplum top that, Ashley said, year. Tahari stuck to a palette “Shangri-la Remix” and offered schedule. The collection is full wardrobe,” said Ashley. “felt very now.” of deep purples, turquoise up a fresh take on her usual in 700 doors; includes shoes, “We have a huge age range and strong blues and greens, East-meets-West aesthetic. done in partnership with Steve and crossover with The Row Elie Tahari: Elie Tahari was in sometimes styling hues of the Looking to the cultures and Madden, and sunglasses; has customer.” The palette was party mode at his presentation same tone in one look, i.e., a traditions of the Himalayas, a fragrance in the works, and collegiate with burgundy, navy, on Thursday. His showroom purple leather jacket with a Tam mixed ethnic elements plans to launch handbags for black and green, and there felt a lot like a crowded purple blouse and navy pencil with sleek tailoring. There fall 2013. So why show now? were twists on plaids, such as a bash, with models (some who skirt. Highlights came when he were jacquard wrap skirts “It just felt like the right time,” ruched pencil skirt worn with a were the designer’s friends, mixed up patterns, particularly over skinny pants, slouchy said Mary-Kate. Or perhaps marled, cable-knit and cropped family and staff) visibly in the blue fitted blazer with trousers, tailored coats and rich because the clothes looked in ivory peacoat with a fur collar. enjoying themselves, sipping a brocadelike front and brocades and embroideries. peak condition. While much could be described Champagne and, a rarity herringbone sleeves, paired The designer also piled on the Both the production quality as classic, the designers paid during fashion week, actually with slim-cut pants. layers with cozy Mongolian WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2012 7 WWD.COM

Elizabeth and James Elie Tahari Vivienne Tam Brood

LL 20 FA 12 COLLECTIONS NEW YORK

Bill Blass Threeasfour Joanna Mastroianni

lamb scarves and collars, sporty take on dressing up — satin hugged the body and arm, which added a sporty, cry from commercial, which is making this one of her strongest short, snug dresses with racer were shown over slim pants youthful feel to the otherwise just the way fans of the label collections in several seasons. backs, zippers and drawstring and pencil skirts. Some jackets stark collection. like it. peplums — was revamped in had a military slant with front Brood: In the past, Serkan Sarier sparkly gold bonded felt, and in pockets and bold buttons, but Threeasfour: A geometric crop- Joanna Mastroianni: Joanna shrewdly set his collection a moody blue-and-purple print the vibe was decidedly evening. circle formation was the main Mastroianni showed her cooler apart from the new designer inspired by artist Glenn Brown. The designer was at his best inspiration for Threeasfour’s side earlier this week, forgoing heap by showing off-calendar, Better yet and newer for Sarier with pieces like a short black Adi Gil, Angela Donhauser some of her glitzy signature to a few weeks after the Paris were the beautiful soft scarf houndstooth jacquard dress and Gabriel Asfour, who include more simple and sporty shows when there’s more dresses. One of them, draped and a long gold metallic knit deconstructed the motif and details like leather trim on a time and attention to spare, if from a single piece of blue-and- gown. But he also played with explored it in a range of ways. black double-faced wool jacket not open-to-buy bucks. That white floral velvet burnout, color — including blues, red The result was a number of and shorts. A bit dressier but couldn’t last forever, so for fall looked like an elegant vase. and dark green — in the form of looks rooted in reality — a still restrained were her lovely he joined the fashion week fray, contrasting panels that added lovely cream dress with black wool sheaths — a cap- putting his presentation on the Bill Blass: Jeffrey Monteiro interest to simple pieces. Some architectural seams, a cutout sleeved version had a violet last day of a long week. That kept things clean for fall with dresses and coats featured dress in a landscape print and bouquet detail on the sleeves the clothes still stood out was a notably trim and tailored brightly colored sleeves or several coats in round shapes. and neckline, another with a a great sign for him. Sarier’s look. Coats in wool or bonded embroidered strips down the These looks were still a far point d’esprit back. 8 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2012 WWD.COM Youth Movement Wows Buyers in New York sophisticated sensibilities we saw, such as Trend watch: Layering different fabrics, ar- want to collaborate with Prabal Gurung By SHARON EDELSON tonal dressing, tailoring, ultrashine, military tistic prints, wonderful color combinations and Joseph Altuzarra. Mainland Chinese moods, leather separates and novelty fur. such as burgundy mixed with orange. Also, customers are hungry for the new. NEW YORK IS COMING OF AGE. Thrill me: Special mention to Joseph banded pants, pretty tie-neck blouses, 3-D The price is right: At Lane Crawford, we are The tribe of contemporary designers Altuzarra and Proenza Schouler for their knitwear, fur pieced or patched as part of a fortunate we’re in the most booming part that includes Jason Wu, Alexander Wang, highly original collections. No other garment or on its own. of the world, Hong Kong and China. It’s not Prabal Gurung, Thakoon Panichgul, Derek country cultivates its young tier of de- Hot new designers: We keep looking at about price, it’s absolutely about design. Lam and Phillip Lim came into its own dur- signers like the U.S., the bench strength the Ecco Domani winners, Haus Alkire, Trend backlash: Oversize. So few people ing fashion week, store buyers said. While of our fashion future. Correll Correll and Sophie Theallet. can get away with it. I don’t want to see designers in the group have been on retail- New York, New York: The rising designers, it — ever. Midcalf-length skirts or dresses ers’ radar for several years and their busi- STEPHANIE SOLOMON, VICE PRESIDENT OF the modernists, to me that’s what’s tak- don’t rock our boat, either. nesses have been growing steadily, execu- FASHION DIRECTION, BLOOMINGDALE’S: ing over. Maybe New York is growing up. tives said fall 2012 was when they broke out. Trends: A return to sportswear, a plethora There seemed to be more retailers from KEN DOWNING, NEIMAN MARCUS SENIOR “Ten years ago, it wasn’t about designers of leather, fur and shine, the all-impor- European countries at the shows. There’s VICE PRESIDENT AND FASHION DIRECTOR: in America,” said Sarah Rutson, fashion di- tant three-quarter length coat. Luxury a new buzz about this new generation. Thumbs up: Color, as in all the shades of rector of Lane Crawford. “These young de- green, navy, brilliant pops of bright or- signers, it really is their time now. They’re ange and bright red, and black and white. superconfident. In a market where people Also leather, men’s wear influences, chi- are feeling quite nervous and a lot of stores noiserie and updated mink. are talking about how there’s a lot of uncer- Top collections: Jason Wu’s European élan, tainty, designers are playing it safe.” Alexander Wang, Altuzarra’s outerwear Not this group, which experiments with and Victoria Beckham’s body-conscious high-tech fabrics, leather splicing tech- dresses. Also, Derek Lam’s leather piec- niques and unusual fabric juxtapositions. es, The Row and Proenza Schouler. “We are prepared to spend the money The price is right: The customer is discern- on brands that are offering something so ing about how she’s spending her money. unique and fresh that it’s going to stand Prices for fall are all over the board out on the hanger,” Rutson said. “They’re due to workmanship, cashmere, fur and giving us what we want in terms of qual- leather. It has to be emotional. ity and elevation of design.” “Contemporary designers ruled the JEFFREY KALINSKY, EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT week,” said Stephanie Solomon, vice presi- OF DESIGNER MERCHANDISING, NORDSTROM:

dent of fashion direction at Bloomingdale’s. GIANNONI Top collections: Alexander Wang, Altuzarra “I loved Michael Kors and Ralph Lauren and Jason Wu. and appreciate their experience and their Thumbs up: Interesting outerwear, slim skill. But that [younger] generation is tak- GIOVANNI boot-cut pants, leather, fur and shearling. BY ing over the spotlight. The younger design- Also Alexander Wang’s patent leather WU ers are being taken seriously on the global hooded coats and jackets, Altuzarra’s stage. There’s this new force.” beautiful shearlings and coats and Jason Sarah Easley, co-owner of Kirna MITRA; Wu’s fur details. Zabête, said, “New York felt so strong and forceful. So many designers found ROBERT ELYSE WALKER, OWNER OF A STORE IN their voices. It felt like Europe, not New BY PACIFIC PALISADES, CALIF.:

Yo r k . The couture quality, the details.…It WANG Thrill me: Victoria Beckham, her dresses was a polished week.” are amazing. Alexander Wang makes per- The rise of the contemporary cadre fect sweater, T-shirt and jersey dresses. could be a matter of timing. Many have AQUINO; He’s building a really strong T-shirt and been in business for about five years. JOHN denim business.

“They’re hitting their stride,” said BY Hot new designers: We placed our second order Kirna Zabête’s co-owner Beth Buccini. with newcomer Tess Giberson. We’re still “They’ve had enough experience.” Victoria Alexander PHOTO waiting for our first order to be delivered, Financial backing has also made a dif- Beckham Wang Jason Wu but that’s how it is with young designers.

ference. “At Proenza Schouler, you could BECKHAM Bury these trends: A lot of outerwear that feel that there was some money behind the just isn’t flattering. It’s very architectur- collection and the boys could really create fabrications and innovative fabrics like COLLEEN SHERIN, SENIOR FASHION DIRECTOR, al, but not flattering. Women will need their dream and not worry about anything the kind we see in Paris or Milan but SAKS FIFTH AVENUE: to work out to wear the big and oversize else,” she said. Andrew Rosen and John don’t see as often here, holograms, shine Thrill me: Rag & Bone, Altuzarra, Derek trend. Nobody wants to buy something Howard invested in the business last year. and use of technology that created an Lam, Carolina Herrera, Marc Jacobs, that makes them look fat. Retailers said the contemporary busi- extra-terrestrial luminescence. Proenza Schouler and Ralph Lauren. ness has been leading other areas, such Thrill me: Rag & Bone’s Marcus [Wainwright] Trends: Eclectic mixes with luxurious lay- SARAH EASLEY AND BETH BUCCINI, as designer. “There’s a huge surge of and David [Neville] set trends and raise the ers, fur and leather trims; decorative CO-OWNERS, KIRNA ZABÊTE, NEW YORK: amazing fashion in contemporary,” said bar. Helmut Lang was innovative and in- fabrications such as brocades with me- Thrill me: Thakoon’s red light district, Elyse Walker, owner of a 6,500-square- spiring and Rebecca Taylor’s collection was tallic shine, jacquards and Lurex tweeds; Rodarte’s Australian Outback and foot store in Pacific Palisades, Calif. sophisticated and urban, not girly. Phillip updated cable knits; a plethora of coat Indian and Turkish influences at Joseph “There may be a shift where some de- Lim, Jason Wu, Alexander Wang, Thakoon styles and ultraflattering sheath dresses. Altuzarra. Also, oversize dressing at signer customers start wearing contem- and Derek Lam are the future. Young de- Sound off: The fashion week calendar has Proenza Schouler, newfangled military porary because the design is so amazing. signers are not afraid to experiment. Tory become far too cluttered with multiple at Alexander Wang and velvet blazers Contemporary has been on fire in our Burch showed a perfect collection and designers competing in the same time at Jason Wu. Victoria Beckham’s strong, store for two seasons.” moved to a whole other level. Marc Jacobs slots. Not every designer needs to pro- well-styled collection proved she’s really Here is what buyers had to say about kept me spellbound and curious. duce a full-blown runway show. a designer. We want to grow her business. the New York season: Her gowns were exceptional. NICOLE FISCHELIS, GROUP VICE PRESIDENT SARAH RUTSON, FASHION DIRECTOR, The price is right: Everybody is really aware LINDA FARGO, SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, AND FASHION DIRECTOR, MACY’S: LANE CRAWFORD: of prices. We had an absolutely strong FASHION OFFICE AND STORE PRESENTATION, Top collections: Marc Jacobs’ fun clothes, Top collections: Elizabeth and James and holiday season and January was our best BERGDORF GOODMAN: Narciso Rodriguez’s exquisite collec- Prabal Gurung. J. Crew really knocked it month ever. Women are shopping, trying Big picture: It felt like the designers saved tion, Rag & Bone, Thakoon, Phillip Lim, out of the park. new things and being experimental. their gunpowder for fall, on the heels of Nanette Lepore and Rachel Roy. Also, Tying the knot: J. Crew collaborates with Hot designers: Our Prabal Gurung orders a rather tepid pre-fall. Michael Kors, Diane von Furstenberg, various designers. Lane Crawford would are up by 25 percent. He’s a rising star, Trends: Fall will have rich offerings, given the Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein. like to collaborate with J. Crew. I also but next year he’ll be a star.

fashion office will hand-hold the design- was head buyer for designer brands at ers from a style and advertising perspec- Intermix and fashion director of Scoop Jones Group Creates New Office tive and make sure it’s on trend. There NYC. Ross, who will work in a consult- NEW YORK — In an effort to support the “It’s all part of the evolution of the are many things stylists can do to person- ing capacity, will continue as an inde- growth of core and emerging brands, The Jones Group and our quest to solidify our- ify a brand. It speaks to our interest to be- pendent fashion stylist, costume design- Jones Group has established the Jones selves as a portfolio of fashion brands,” come a design-led organization,” he said. er and consultant for celebrities, films, Group Fashion Office under the direction Richard Dickson, president and chief ex- Clurman, who spent 10 years at TV series and design houses. Her cli- of Stefani Greenfield, chief creative officer. ecutive officer of branded businesses at Vogue, rising to fashion market direc- ents include Mariska Hargitay and Vera The company has tapped Wendy The Jones Group, told WWD. He explained tor, has most recently been a consultant Farmiga. She was previously the market Hirschberg Clurman as vice president that the company has been divided by cat- to the fashion industry, working with director at Harper’s Bazaar. and fashion director of Jones New York; egory, such as footwear, jewelry and sports- such brands as Theory, Magaschoni and In addition to Jones New York and Danielle de Marne as vice president and wear, and it has lacked a central fashion Matthew Williamson in the develop- Anne Klein, Jones owns or licenses the fashion director of designer and contem- office to research and define style trends. ment, production and styling of collec- labels Rachel Roy, Rachel Rachel Roy, porary brands, and Amanda Ross as con- According to Dickson, each of the tions. De Marne was previously creative B. Brian Atwood, Robert Rodriguez, C&T sulting fashion director of Anne Klein. brand’s designers will work hand in hand director of Full Picture, where she ad- Costello Tagliapietra and Rafe. It is these The executives, all of whom work in the with a fashion-office member. “Great de- vised on the design and creative direc- labels that De Marne will focus on. fashion office, report to Greenfield. sign has a stylist attached to them. Our tion for the agency’s clients. Earlier, she — LISA LOCKWOOD 0:008:35 PM the RUNWAY PM the 0:008:36 WORLD

instant gratifi cation DesignerProenza Schouler Name Photo: MonicaPhotocredit Feudi / xxx.com / Feudiguaineri.com for fashion obsessives [ OHIW

10 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2012 WWD.COM beauty Dolce & Gabbana, Bellucci Team Up

consumers of all ages. “I think it’s also a By CYNTHIA MARTENS testament to how respected we are within the makeup business, that we attract a ce- WHEN DOMENICO Dolce and Stefano lebrity of the caliber of Monica, in addi- Gabbana were looking for a new face for tion to what we already have with Scarlett their beauty collection, they didn’t have [Johansson] and Felicity Jones,” he said, to look far in settling on Monica Bellucci, naming the other two faces of Dolce & who had recently returned to the Italian Gabbana Make Up. A visual from the Monica Bellucci ad. design house. He added Dolce & Gabbana’s cosmet- “We are very old friends of Monica’s,” ics line is currently expanding distribu- drawn to the different colors, depend- with really subtle touches that aren’t said Gabbana, reached by phone. “We tion. “We are rolling out quite fast, but ing on how I feel.” immediately obvious but really catch must have met in 1989 or 1990.…We really what we want to be sure of is that we do “Lipstick says a lot about a woman. your attention.” grew up together.” it right,” he said, naming Italy and Russia It is her most traditional gesture,” The advertising campaign for the Describing Bellucci as “a fantas- as key regions. Bellucci added. “I remember my Monica Lipstick Collection — shot by tic woman, very sunny, very feminine,” The new lipsticks will be available in grandmother even though she wasn’t photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Gabbana said that for him and design six shades and will cost $32 each. By the a young woman anymore, would al- Piggott in London in October 2011, with partner Dolce, working with Bellucci time of the launch, the Dolce & Gabbana ways take her mirror and put on some makeup by Pat McGrath — draws in- was “like working with a family member. color collection will be in about 120 to red lipstick before going to church. spiration from the golden era of Italian She’s our icon, she’s the emblem of Dolce 150 doors in the U.S., the U.K., Italy, Of course it wasn’t to show off, but it cinema, evoking the classic, voluptuous & Gabbana.” Russia, Greece, Spain and the Middle was a feminine gesture for her own beauty of actresses such as Sophia So much so that Bellucci will also front East. Feola and Gabbana declined to dis- pleasure. And when I was a little girl, Loren. It will run in print starting in a limited edition makeup line, the Monica cuss sales projections. I loved seeing the way she was taking May in Italy, the U.S., the U.K., Russia Lipstick Collection, which will hit stores “The idea for the collection was to care of herself.” and the Middle East. May 12. create different shades, different colors Asked to explain her attachment to Although P&G declined to discuss “Monica has a strong appeal to consum- depending on your mood of the day, your the Dolce & Gabbana brand over the figures, industry sources estimate that ers all over the world,” said Luigi Feola, state of mind,” Bellucci said, noting she years, Bellucci said, “I really admire the first-year sales target of the lipstick vice president of P&G Prestige, which was “honored” to be working with her the way that they channel sensuality collection could reach well over $6 mil- holds the beauty license, noting the com- friends Dolce and Gabbana once again. “I into their work, whether that’s in an lion, with a promotional war chest be- pany hopes Bellucci will help attract new love all shades in the collection and feel overtly feminine way, or sometimes tween $6 million to $10 million. Pressure Building on Avon To Find Jung’s Successor {Continued from page one} get worse.…The beauty industry is dramat- said Sanford C. Bernstein & Co. analyst ically changing and changing very quickly.” Ali Dibadj. He credited Avon’s newly in- Deutsche Bank analyst Bill Schmitz stalled executive vice president and chief wrote in a research note released Tuesday, financial officer Kimberly Ross for ad- “Beyond the operational missteps and cor- dressing Avon’s most vexing challenges ruption charges, the biggest disappoint- during the company’s earnings call on ment has been Avon’s inability to convert Tuesday but cautioned, “The problems earnings to free cash flow. While the stock is that she laid out are right, but they run clearly cheap and we believe risk-reward is deep.” Dibadj said he was amused that highly favorable here, free cash flow needs Ross — a mere 10 weeks into the cfo job to catch up with earnings, and not vice — was able to identify problem areas that versa, for investors to really get excited.” management has been unable to pinpoint Kate Benson, president of the execu- and subsequently address. Referring to tive consultancy Martens & Heads, said Avon’s recent call to improve its top-line searches for high-level ceo posts typically performance and to cut costs, he said, take at least three to six months. Avon “There’s definitely motion, but it’s rud- presumably began its search in earnest in derless motion until a new ceo is named.” December when the company announced Many expect the ceo announcement it would split the role of chairman and to come soon. “Avon will delay its first- ceo into two. As for what type of person quarter strategic update until a new ceo is right for the job, Benson said, “I’m a big is on board, which we think will be soon,” fan of transferable skill sets. As long as wrote Caris & Co. analyst Linda Bolton the person has had success elsewhere it’s Weiser in a note Wednesday. An incoming better than what Avon has now. You need ceo, as several analysts said, could scrap someone who understands the difference the findings from Avon’s current opera- between direct selling and where [he or tional review and start from scratch. she] comes from.” The new hire will likely have to hit the In her view, the right candidate is “some- ground running, said industry consultant one who is adept at galvanizing people and Allan Mottus. “If Avon drifts it’s going to articulating a vision throughout the global ranks. A vision is something that people A product from Avon Anew Clinical. talk about very glibly but not everyone has the ability to create it.” The incoming ceo also will be tasked with restoring morale — Avon reported Tuesday that in the fourth quarter its active representative base fell by 3 percent. Benson said that will come with successfully implementing changes that get the company back on track. “[Low] morale is something that is a by-product of failure.” She suspects Jung’s continued presence on Avon’s board will be an important topic of conversation for any lead candidate. — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS

PHOTO BY CN DIGITAL STUDIO CN DIGITAL PHOTO BY FROM PETE BORN

ZDDLQGG 30  DOES THIS SUCCESS STORY HAVE A SECOND CHAPTER? INSIDERS FIND OUT

MARCH 5, 2012 12 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2012 WWD.COM Nicki Ricky Minaj Martin Yankees’ New Pitch: beauty Fragrance Masterbrand FRAGRANCE IS ABOUT TO enter a whole new ball game Ricky and Nicki with the creation of a New Yo r k Ya n k e e s scent masterbrand.

EICHNER Launching at Team Up for MAC the end of April in STEVE Macy’s stores in the BY By JULIE NAUGHTON New York metropoli- tan area, at Yankees IT WAS THE RICKY AND NICKI SHOW Wednesday night PHOTOS Stadium and on- at Stage 37. ers. “I felt like Whitney was part of my family, of everyone’s line, the men’s and Before Ricky Martin and Nicki Minaj — who are the family,” said Minaj. Added Martin, “She did so much, and her women’s scents will faces of the 2012 MAC AIDS Fund campaign — took to the music will make her live forever — she will never truly die.” later expand to ad- stage on a tricked-out motorcycle and a cloud of dry ice, Martin noted that the most consistent rumor around ditional department the duo spoke of upcoming projects, marriage and Whitney him these days is that marriage is imminent for him and stores domestically Houston, in addition to the crucial role of AIDS research. partner Carlos Gonzalez Abella. “[Tabloids] can say what- and in multiple in- Fresh off a controversial Grammys performance (“Part of a ever they want, but trust me — when I get married, I’ll tell ternational markets, The men’s scent. movie I’m making,” she said), Minaj noted that she’s working the world,” said Martin, who with Abella has three-year- said Tom Butkiewicz, on her sophomore album. “It’ll be out April 3 and it’s called old twin boys, Matteo and Valentino. chief executive officer and managing partner ‘Pink Friday: Roman Reloaded,’” said Minaj, clad in a pink “MAC is once again at the intersection of fashion and of The Cloudbreak Group, of the deal inked and blue striped suit, Giuseppe Zanotti heels and eyelashes pop culture,” said John Demsey, group president of the between his firm, Major League Baseball and that nearly touched her forehead — “they’re natural,” she Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. and chairman of the MAC AIDS the New York Yankees to create the prestige laughed. She also wore her Viva Glam shade, a flamingo pink Fund, of the Minaj-Martin pairing. To date, MAC has raised fragrance duo. lipstick. Minaj said she always wanted to be a part of Viva $236 million with the MAC AIDS Fund and is on track to “In a category experiencing significant Glam, “because they give back to people with AIDS,” she said. raise $250 million by June, said Demsey. unit contraction and desperately seeking in- “They’re in need of food, they’re in need of shelter, they’re in The MAC AIDS Fund celebration drew more than 700 novation, this partnership, with a professional need of medicine. MAC and this lipstick make it possible.” people over the course of the evening, including Macy’s Inc. sports team of this magnitude, is an industry Raising awareness is also key, said Martin. “Let’s take chief executive officer Terry J. Lundgren and several of the first,” said Butkiewicz. “The Yankees are a the power that we have, and let’s tell the world that this is fashion designers MAC supports, including Alexander Wang. multibillion-dollar franchise and we think we still a very big issue,” he said. Noting that runway shows have been part of the brand’s have a global opportunity with this deal.” Martin — whose Viva Glam product is a unisex lip con- DNA for more than two decades, Demsey added that the While fragrances are a first for the storied ditioner — is gearing up to play Che in a Broadway revival brand supported more than 90 designers this season in baseball team, Jason Latimer, assistant di- of “Evita.” Previews are slated to begin March 12, with the New York alone and did the nails at several, a first for the rector of media and player relations for the opening night set for April 5. “I did Les Miz years ago, and brand. MAC has also ramped up its digital offerings, using Ya n k e e s , said he thinks it’s an idea whose time now we’re reviving this beautiful classic,” he said of the Facebook, YouTube, Tumblr and Twitter to give the brand’s has come. “We consider ourselves a top global Andrew Lloyd Webber/Tim Rice tour de force. “I’m locked fans behind-the-scenes glimpses of the New York shows, a brand and we pride ourselves on class and el- in the studio from 9 to 7, rehearsing.” practice it intends to continue in London, Milan and Paris. egance,” he said. “We felt Cloudbreak could Houston’s Feb. 11 death obviously impacted both perform- Globally, MAC does more than 850 shows each year, he said. execute that very well in fragrance.” Both scents were concocted by Firmenich, working with Cloudbreak. The men’s scent, New Yo r k Yankees, described as a sporty, woody eau de toilette, features a blend of sparkling ber- Revlon Reports Second Year of Top-line Growth gamot, coriander and cool blue sage on top; a Operating income, which was not impacted by taxes, heart of crisp ivy leaves, orange flower and ge- By MOLLY PRIOR slipped to $66 million from $67.8 million. Net sales dipped ranium, and a drydown of rich earthy patchouli, 2.6 percent to $359.8 million, from $369.2 million a year smooth sandalwood and suede. The women’s ALAN ENNIS, president and chief executive officer of earlier, driven by lower sales of Revlon cosmetics and scent, New York Yankees for Her, is described Revlon Inc., said things were looking up at the cosmetics higher product returns to make way for new items and as an alluring, flirty, playful scent. The fruity company in 2011. product restages. Excluding favorable currency fluctua- gourmand eau de parfum opens with a blend of “It was our second consecutive year of top-line growth, tions, sales were essentially flat. Revlon continued to build juicy guava, succulent plum and sun-kissed apri- which this company hasn’t done for some time,” Ennis out its product franchises, including PhotoReady and cot nectar; with a heart of drenched strawberry told WWD. ColorBurst, with new items. blossom and rich tiare flower, and a drydown He added that the company also delivered its fourth By region, net sales in the U.S. declined 4.7 percent of creamy sandalwood, delicious vanilla and consecutive year of positive free cash flow. to $191.6 million; sales in Asia-Pacific gained 4.9 percent sensuous musk, noted Jennifer Mullarkey, se- In the fourth quarter, though, profits slid 87.7 percent to $63.8 million; sales in Europe, the Middle East and nior vice president of product development for since the company registered a big tax benefit in the year- Africa ticked down by 1.4 percent to $55.9 million; in Latin Cloudbreak. Both scents will be available in 1.7 ago period. America, sales declined 5.4 percent to $28.3 million, and in oz. and 3.4 oz. sizes for $49 and $62, respectively. For the quarter ended Dec. 31, Revlon’s net income de- Canada, sales decreased 2.9 percent to $20.2 million. Promotion efforts will include a permanent clined to $36.4 million, or 70 cents a diluted share, com- For the year, Revlon’s net income was $53.4 million, or $1.02 sign at Yankee Stadium, a print advertisement pared with $296.2 million, or $5.66 a share, in the year-ago a diluted share, down from $327.3 million, or $6.26 a share, in in Yankees Magazine and a promotional day, period. Net income included a non-cash tax benefit of the prior year. Net sales gained 4.5 percent to $1.38 billion, as well as an extensive online campaign, said $16.9 million in the fourth quarter of 2011 and $260.6 mil- driven by the acquisition of Sinful Colors. Excluding favorable Dennis Keogh, senior vice president of market- lion in the fourth quarter of 2010. currency fluctuations, net sales increased 3.3 percent. ing for Cloudbreak, whom Butkiewicz credited as a driving force behind the idea. The social media campaign will include partnering with mlb.com and yankees.com on social media and a Ed Hardy Turns to Ghostly Inspiration for New Scents dedicated web address, yan- keesfragrance.com, that is ED HARDY IS ADDING A DIMENSION Hardy fragrance brand. “We wanted “This is a new direction for us,” tentatively slated to go live to his fragrance business in the form of to go away from a printed version and said Lekach. “Our demographic re- in mid-March. E-tailing will his-and-hers skulls, two ghostly inter- do an actual sculpture of [Ed Hardy’s] mains a young person who enjoys tat- be particularly impor- pretations of a Sixties-era Hardy tattoo. most iconic tattoo.” toos and nightlife, but this might also tant for the scents, Industry sources believe the The bottles are white and black appeal to collectors.” “because Ya n k e e s scents, called Skulls & Roses, could matte-touch sculpted skulls with fab- Lekach revealed that more sculpt- fans are global,” said generate $20 million in the first year. ric rose accessories, based on Hardy’s ed bottles based off Hardy’s designs Keogh, who expects “People think of Ed Hardy and trademarked Skulls & Roses tattoo. (i.e. panthers and bulldogs), may be in the rollout to also in- they think of the skull,” said Salo The original design features a white the brand’s future. clude military base/ Lekach, chief executive officer of New skull, surrounded by three crimson Within the unique flacons are post exchanges, duty Wave Fragrances, licensee of the Ed roses, with one placed in the mouth. scents blended by Givaudan perfumers free, Puerto Rico Marypierre Julien and Adriana Medina. and the Dominican The female juice, housed in the Republic, given those white container, is “warm and sug- markets’ strong ties to ary,” with notes of strawberry, violet the Yankees. leaves, honeysuckle and caramel, While all parties in- while the male version is a “fresh, The women’s fragrance. volved declined to dis- ozonic” composition of bergamot, car- cuss sales projections, damom, lavandin, moss and musk. industry sources estimated that the masterbrand It will be launched in September could do $12 million to $15 million in retail sales in about 2,000 U.S. doors — including globally, with an estimated advertising and pro- Macy’s, Dillard’s, Bon-Ton, Belk and motional spend of about $5 million globally. Ulta — and the scents are due to reach The Cloudbreak Group develops intellectual the international market next January. property, acquires licenses and identifies proper- The brand’s accompanying $2 million ad ties for acquisition or investment. The company campaign will focus primarily on social, operates globally in the luxury, department store, Renderings of the Skulls & Roses bottles and the design that inspired them. digital and print outlets. — BELISA SILVA specialty on-air and online channels. — J.N. NEW FROM NICOLE: In search of a wider audience, Nicole Richie has teamed with QVC for a new line. WWD STYLE PAGE 16

See No Evil Shala Monroque and Michelle Harper worked a little prop comedy into the fashion week debauchery at Proenza Schouler’s after party at Le Baron on Wednesday night. For more parties, see page 14. PHOTO BY JENNA GREEENE

In terms of fashion titles, British stayed flat year-on-year at 120,094. As a combined digital and print circulation Vogue fell 0.2 percent in the six whole, the men’s lifestyle sector fell 5.2 of 197,463, while Esquire recorded a MEMO PAD months to December, compared to percent year-on-year. combined circulation of 60,328 and the same period last year, to 210,806, However, both Condé Nast U.K. Harper’s Bazaar achieved a combined CARINE’S NEXT PROJECT?: Carine Roitfeld while Hearst’s Elle declined 2.7 and Hearst Magazines U.K. pointed circulation of 122,884. The company has made no secret of her wish to percent to 195,020 year-on-year, to the growth in digital sales of their said that since October 2011, 10 launch her own magazine, and the and IPC’s InStyle fell 2.5 percent to magazines, and each firm independently million users have downloaded Hearst guessing game has been with whom. 176,002. British Glamour, while still published ABC figures that combined Magazine U.K.’s apps. Now there is speculation that Roitfeld the best-performing paid-for women’s their digital and print sales. Condé IPC Media’s chief executive officer, is in talks to publish her title in lifestyle title, fell 6.8 percent year- Nast U.K. said that combining both Sylvia Auton, pointed to positive results collaboration with the media group that on-year to 466,327. All figures are for media, Vogue posted a circulation of from Marie Claire, which notched up owns Visionaire, V Magazine and VMan. the titles’ total average net circulation 211,624, while Vanity Fair achieved a a 6.4 percent gain in the six months to She’s already guest edited an issue of and distribution. circulation of 105,089 and GQ registered December compared to the previous V. Roitfeld has been seen a lot in the Those titles that did grow circulation a circulation of 125,825. Nicholas Coleridge, six months, which IPC attributed to company’s offices recently and there did so modestly. Harper’s Bazaar, managing director of Condé Nast U.K., an increase in newsstand sales and a is talk the title could be out as soon as published by Hearst U.K., rose 0.2 said: “Print is proving to be remarkably focus on delivering a “strong editorial this fall. Roitfeld could not be reached percent year-on-year to 120,004, while resilient at the luxury end, confounding product.” The title recently launched for comment. — WWD STAFF Vanity Fair rose 0.1 percent to 102,585, the doom-mongers. In addition, the iPad a biannual fashion collections spin- and Marie Claire, published by IPC in and other tablet devices are offering off, called Marie Claire Runway. Auton U.K. TITLES POST SLOW-GROWING ABCS: the U.K., rose 0.7 percent to 266,881. exciting routes to market, which is also cited the positive performances of U.K. magazines continued to post either Men’s titles also registered declines. proving popular with our upmarket Woman & Home, InStyle and Country declining or slow-growing print circulation Men’s Health fell 10.1 percent year-on- readership, in particular for GQ, Wired Life as evidence that “empty nesters figures in the second half of 2011, year to 221,176, while FHM plummeted and Vanity Fair.” Digital sales combine and those without dependent children according to data published by the U.K.’s 20.6 percent to 140,716 and Esquire fell both Apple Newsstand and Zinio sales. are continuing to buy magazines in large Audit Bureau of Circulation Thursday. 4.7 percent to 56,583. GQ’s circulation Hearst said that Elle achieved a numbers.” — NINA JONES 14 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2012 FOR MORE PARTY PHOTOS, SEE

Tenzin Wild, Magnus Berger and Anna Laub. WWD.com/eye. Calvin’s Crew BACKSTAGE AT the Calvin Klein Collection fall show on Thursday, a few of the models readying for the runway sported severe black bobs that had clearly been inspired by “The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo.” It made for a nice lead-in for Rooney Mara, Lisbeth Salander herself, and one of the brand’s two big front- row gets this season, who suddenly Felicity appeared to pose for pictures amid Last Rites Richard Chai Jones the preshow chaos. Emma THERE WAS A PALPABLE air of relief brand created by Anna Laub), with also on hand, surveying the scene. Stone in at The Last Magazine dinner party at directions to switch with a neighbor if “I think there’s definitely a level of Calvin Klein ACME on Wednesday night, which, the frames didn’t suit. luxury that’s been missing from a lot Collection. when mixed with an enthusiastic vodka As the dinner wound to a close of what’s been happening in fashion sponsor, usually leads to excitement. and guests began shimmying toward this week,” she surmised. “I’m glad “Fashion week is almost over!” Chelsea the stairs down to the dance floor, a to see J.Mendel reconnecting with Leyland laughed. “I think everyone’s new wave of people was approaching that. I think people are ready to look ready to have a good night.” the restaurant eager to join in the well-dressed again, versus this always Bartenders were set to make sure of festivities. Pouring through the doors slouchy ‘model-off-duty’ thing.” it, bringing new cocktails to guests every came Hannah Bronfman, Carly Cushnie and It wouldn’t have been a fall 2012 New time they put them down. Michelle Ochs. Lindsey Wixson was on hand, Yo r k Fashion Week evening, even the Though the invitation for dinner wearing a floor-length floral skirt and penultimate one, without a reason to had read 8 p.m., most guests arrived sweater and sipping ice water from a party at Le Baron, and Proenza Schouler later, following the Proenza Schouler cup labeled “Kanon Vodka” near the allowed the late night set one last reason show in Chelsea. Hanne Gaby Odiele, front of the bar until she spied Terr y to congregate there. Jack McCollough and who had walked in the Proenza show, Richardson and Jared Leto (wrapped in Lazaro Hernandez hosted a procession of scooted into a banquette with her what appeared to be a fringed knit well wishers that included Michelle Harper, makeup from the runway still evident. women’s cape) clamoring into the party. Shala Monroque, Alexander Wang, Rachel Zoe, “Hanne!” Magnus Berger cried, as “Let’s go!” Leto said, and headed for the Caroline Sieber, Patrik Ervell and Liya Kebede. he passed by with camera in hand, dancing fracas downstairs. Early in the proceedings, Felicity Jones snapping photos for the Last mag’s Next door at Indochine, J.Mendel was sitting in a booth off the first dance Web site. “Look at you!” Pat McGrath sat had a very civilized celebratory affair. floor, taking in the space and learning nearby with Alexandra Richards, Leyland Lola Rykiel, Hilary Rhoda, Tanya Dziahileva, some Chinatown color. and Jenné Lombardo. “I should ask her Ashley Olsen and Alex Rodriguez were all in “I think it’s really well designed,” to help with the eye makeup, she’s a attendance, with Gilles Mendel and Alec she said of the club. “We just had genius” Odiele laughed. Gores. Olsen had caused a stir at the Vietnamese before we came here, lots of Phillip Lim and Richard Chai were both show earlier in the day with her sister, good places to eat.” at the fete and eager to unwind after sitting in the front row in seemingly Mike D of the Beastie Boys sat one booth busy weeks. “They promised a dance matching all-black ensembles (complete over, enjoying the crowd. No stranger party,” Chai said. “There’d better be with oversize sunglasses). She avoided to the New York nightlife of yore, WWD “I wear a lot of black,” the actress one.” Ric Pipino sat near Eddie Borgo and press at the party. “I’m just here to asked the rapper for his assessment. said with a laugh as she looked down Keegan Singh in the center of the room, celebrate Gilles,” Olsen said. “I think they could use a little bit at the dress she was wearing from the all passing plates of house-cured salmon Ally Hilfiger and Steve Hash were also more black rubber, just something to line’s pre-fall collection. “You know with buttermilk horseradish dressing, on hand, greeting a late-arriving Monique make it a little more sleazy,” he said as what, black’s easier. The more color salt baked beets and a roughly hewn Péan. Bar Refaeli was all smiles, noting, a boothmate let out a prolonged, elated you have in your wardrobe, the longer duck paté served in a jar. Johan Lindeberg “I think this collection was beautiful, scream. “But I gotta give it to them, it takes you to get dressed. When you sat with Berger and co-editor of the Gilles really out-did himself.” The man in it’s one of the only places where it don’t have that much color, you can put magazine Tenzin Wild near the front of the question spun charmed revelers around kinda has that old ‘something wrong is anything on and it will all go together.” EICHNER restaurant. Every place at the dinner the dance floor as Paul Sevigny DJ’d classic happening in New York’ feeling.’” Though they may share a STEVE

held a box of brand new sunglasses hits from the Sixties and Seventies. — ALESSANDRA CODINHA preference in tones, Mara proved BY from Prism (a swimwear and sunglasses Filmmaker Jenna Elizabeth was AND MATTHEW LYNCH more affable than the character

she has rocketed to prominence STONE portraying. She and row-mate Emma Gilles Stone were getting a look at the Mendel, collection from designer Francisco Ashley Costa ahead of the show. Before the Olsen and models started walking, Mara talked

eye FARRELL/BFANYC.COM; Alec Gores. to WWD about her evolving style, which has gotten “more streamlined BILLY

and utilitarian” along the way. BY “I just love the simplicity of his

clothes,” she said of Costa. “One PARTY of the first things I wore through this whole press thing was one of my favorite looks…the thing I wore J.MENDEL to the CFDA[/Vogue Fashion Fund

Awards]. I love how simple his GREENE; clothes are and comfortable and beautiful and just classic.” JENNA With Mara nominated for a best BY

actress award, and the Oscars a little PARTY more than a week away, there was one question that needed to be asked. “I can’t tell you about it,” she said PROENZA of her dress selection for the big night. “It’s a secret.” RUDD; Stone, dressed in a bright red SCOTT

Costa concoction, offered up her BY own approach to the carpet, where she’s become a steady presence the PHOTOS last few years.

“Now that I’ve been more exposed PARTY Tanya to it, I know what designers I like, or Dziahileva who I respond to,” she said. “It’s not Bar Refaeli too much pressure,” she said. “It’s fun. MAGAZINE

It’s fun to get to dress up.” — M.L. LAST WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2012 15 WWD.COM

It’s part of Mayor Michael Bloomberg’s president Elizabeth S. Marcuse. “Since he FashionNYC2020 program to bolster the credits the launch of his retail career to FASHION SCOOPS city’s $55 billion fashion industry and an internship, and internships are a key recruit some fresh talent. component of an LIM College education, Parsons and the NYCEDC selected and he will undoubtedly be inspirational to NONOCCUPATION: A handful of Occupy brought the recruits to New York and are our students.” Wall Street demonstrators showed Justin Stone-Diaz of paying their expenses for the whirlwind Also at the commencement, Manhattan up at the Calvin Klein fashion show Occupy Wall Street. event. Aside from Macy’s, they are bound Borough President Scott M. Stringer will Thursday afternoon, but showgoers for Li & Fung, Diane von Furstenberg, receive an honorary Doctor of Humane didn’t seem to notice. “Our march Ralph Lauren, Bloomingdale’s, Saks Letters degree. — D.M. didn’t happen, because of the rain,” Fifth Avenue, Club Monaco, Gilt Groupe said Justin Stone-Diaz, information and Theory. The students are from such CAPE TOWN DIAMOND MUSEUM OPENS: With coordinator for Occupy Wall Street. institutions as Parsons, the Fashion Anglo American’s $5 billion cash buyout He explained that a large group had Institute of Technology, Pratt, Yale, Duke, of the Oppenheimer family’s remaining originally planned to march from UC Berkeley and Princeton, among others 40 percent stake in multinational Liberty Plaza to the Calvin Klein show. around the country. — DAVID MOIN diamond behemoth De Beers scheduled Stone-Diaz, who was wearing dripping- to be completed this month, flamboyant pepper-spray red-eye makeup and BENETTON PLAN: The Benetton family’s Cape Town-based diamond jeweler Yair standing outside the show, said the holding, Edizione Srl, said Thursday Shimansky seems poised to take over demonstrators were there to educate it will launch a tender offer to delist as custodian of South Africa’s, um, the public about their cause and Italian clothing and textile manufacturer multifaceted diamond heritage. engage people in conversation but Benetton Group in the months of March Shimansky opened the Cape Town didn’t want to be disruptive. “We don’t and April. Edizione controls 67.08 percent Diamond Museum at the end of 2011 in want to ruin the Calvin Klein show,” of Benetton, and will offer 4.60 euros, or the upgraded Clock Tower precinct in the said Stone-Diaz. He said they chose $6.03 at current exchange, a share for the city’s famed Waterfront district, his “gift Calvin Klein’s show more because of the remaining 32.92 percent of the company to the city of Cape Town.” “symbolic nature of it, and it’s the last for a total sum of over 276.6 million Hailed as the first to pay homage to

day of fashion week.” STRUGATZ RACHEL PHOTO BY euros, or $363 million. Benetton, which the extraordinary story of South Africa’s Alexander Penley, an international went public in 1986, is a small part of diamond industry, the Cape Town Diamond lawyer who’s involved with the Occupy Armani Madison Avenue flagship on Edizione’s overall holdings that span from Museum features, in an exciting experiential Wall Street movement, said the fashion Wednesday night. The party’s raison highway catering and communications to format, the story of the diamond — “the industry also has an unemployment d’être was double-sided: to fete the real estate and agriculture. world’s most desirable treasure,” not to problem, and the movement is trying renovation and to celebrate the According to sources, Benetton’s mention the oldest — from its formation to put people to work and get things on brand’s first-time sponsorship of the executive deputy chairman, Alessandro some three billion years ago deep in the a more balanced level. annual Museum of the City of New Benetton, son of co-founder Luciano Benetton, earth’s crust to the polished stone. “We don’t vilify the 1 percent. We’re York Winter Ball, to be held March is expected to effectively take the helm of Diamonds were first discovered in hoping to educate them,” added Stone- 8 at The Plaza. “We have had a long the Italian group in May. Benetton shares South Africa in 1867, and some of the Diaz. — LISA LOCKWOOD relationship with the museum,” said closed up 0.30 percent to 4.65 euros, or world’s most legendary diamonds came Graziano de Boni, chief executive officer $6.11. — LUISA ZARGANI from the country and are represented as PALS OF PROENZA: Laure Heriard-Dubreuil of Giorgio Armani in North America. replicas: the Cullinan, the Hope and the was all smiles front row at Proenza “They have always done amazing GOULD SPEAKS: Bloomingdale’s chairman Taylor-Burton diamonds among them. Schouler’s runway show on Wednesday work. This is our flagship in New York and chief executive officer Michael Gould The Israeli-born Shimansky moved to night. Recently engaged to artist Aaron — and the Museum of the City of New will don the cap and gown and deliver the South Africa in 1991 and, soon after, began Young, she explained, “I’m trying not York is a local institution — so it was a keynote address at the commencement to create platinum and diamond jewelry, to stress too much yet, there’s still great partnership.” exercises of LIM College on May 31 at with a flea market stall as his first outlet. London and Paris and Milan after this.” Interior designer Geoffrey Bradfield Avery Fisher Hall in Lincoln Center. Today, he has four elegant boutiques in Felicity Jones and Dakota Fanning were surveyed the scene: “I just love He’ll also receive the Distinguished prime locations throughout South Africa, also front row, the latter enthusing Armani.…I prefer buying his clothes Achievement Award from LIM, which and is known for introducing new cuts over the excitement of the week. “It’s in Europe because they’re my size; the is focused on the study of business and such as My Girl and Brilliant 10, both of been great,” Fanning said, “I want American market is for really big fellows. fashion, and an honorary Doctor of which he has trademarked, as well as everything I’ve seen — and I’m sure But he’s brilliant.” — KRISTI GARCED Commercial Science degree. dressing the likes of Charlize Theron and this show won’t be any different.” “Mr. Gould’s fashion and retail Christina Aguilera with his jewelry for red- Gia Coppola was on hand, sitting MILLY’S FRONT ROW: India de Beaufort, leadership is legendary,” said LIM College carpet events. — BAMBINA WISE with Theo Wenner near Eddie Borgo, Liya who appears in “Jane by Design,” was Kebede and Joseph Altuzarra. John Demsey seated in the front row of the Milly made an entrance with recent MAC show, decked out in a Milly design. “I spokesmodel Iris Apfel on his arm, just love the cut and the real vintage the latter sporting a slick of fuchsia feel,” she said. While nothing is lipstick. — ALESSANDRA CODINHA confirmed yet, she said the TV series is looking into merchandising apparel for ARMANI AFFAIRS: Uptown revelers later this year. “Jane by Design,” which including Dennis Basso, Andrew Roosevelt, airs on ABC Family, will air its eighth For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Helen Lee Schifter, Nicole and Matthew episode Tuesday night. “It’s really Mellon, Dani Stahl, Peter Davis, Tara and showing strong figures,” she said. Michael Rockefeller and Shafi Roepers Others in Milly’s front row included mingled among the handbags and Kristin Chenoweth, Gail Simmons of “Top accessories on the ground level of the Chef,” Tinsley Mortimer and Kimberly Spaces newly redesigned four-story Giorgio Guilfoyle Villency. — WWD STAFF

GLOBAL GATHERING: KCD co-president COMMERCIAL Ed Filipowski hosted a cocktail party for REAL ESTATE Assistant Controller Premier apparel company seeking an Fashion Salesperson international fashion editors at his assistant controller. Responsibilities One of the biggest Leather Apparel and Mark Lee’s Chelsea penthouse on include assisting with monthly finan- Companies seeks motivated inside cial reporting, forecasting, variance sales reps from apparel industry to sell Wednesday night. Among the crowd analysis, cash flow and special projects fashion line at our wholesale opera- dining on mini chicken potpies and including analysis of business per- tion. Min 3yrs. exp. Sal based on exp. formance metrics. 10+ years apparel Benefits, 401K, EOE mini mac and cheeses (traditional Showrooms & Lofts experience; CPA preferred. Resumes [email protected] BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS to: [email protected] party offerings at the house) were Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Emmanuelle Alt, Anna Dello Russo, Ingrid ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Designer/Stylist Sischy and Sandra Brant, Patrik Ervell Betsy & Adam is looking for new talent ! ATTENTION Designer/Stylist Wanted CLASSIFIED ADVERTISERS and Jason Wu. Ladies Dressy Evenings Gowns Asked for his most memorable E-mail resume to: [email protected] In observance of the Presidents’ Day Holiday, WWD will not publish on Monday, 2/20 nonshow fashion-week moment, Wu SALES PLANNERS [3] ...... TO $110K MIDTOWN SUBLEASE Fairchild offices also will be closed that day. ticked off the contents of his two- 35th St btw 7th and 8th Ave; Outside Walmart, Kohl’s, Target, Dept Stores balconies and kitchen; Approx 3000 sf Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 Deadline for issue of Tuesday, 2/21 is today at noon Champagne post-runway meal at Sant of office space setup with workstations [email protected] Ambroeus. “That was the best part of available for sublease my week,” the designer said, reflecting Contact: [email protected] on how nonfashion it was. “It’s fattening, it’s food and it’s indulgent.” — MATTHEW LYNCH

JOB SEARCH: “Fashion Draft NYC,” a new initiative by Parsons The New School for Design and the New York PATTERNS, SAMPLES, City Economic Development Corp., PRODUCTIONS Full service shop to the trade. kicks off this morning at Macy’s, where Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 chief executive officer Terr y L undgren will welcome 25 college and university students as they embark on three days of interviews and networking (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] Jason Wu and Anna Dello Russo with retail and fashion companies, as

PHOTO BY EVAN FALK EVAN PHOTO BY well as tours of many of the facilities. 16 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 2012 WWD.COM

Nicole Richie and items from Aggressive Growth Goals for PPR her QVC line. {Continued from page one} The luxury division as a whole posted the division — which some analysts esti- revenues of 1.4 billion euros, or $1.88 bil- mate has an enterprise value of 1.4 billion lion, in the fourth quarter, up 22.1 percent euros, or $1.8 billion — would be concluded from the same period a year earlier, thanks once debt market conditions ease. to stellar growth at Bottega Veneta and Though it remains unclear when the Yves Saint Laurent, whose couture division deal could be finalized, PPR has already turned a profit for the first time last year. stripped out revenues from Redcats and At a luncheon later with journalists, the Italian division of books and electronics Pinault reiterated his confidence for 2012, retailer Fnac from its full-year results, and citing a “structural” trend that should see restated 2010 figures to reflect their reclas- the luxury goods sector continue to expand sification as “non-current assets held for for the foreseeable future. He added that sale and discontinued operations.” young demographics in emerging markets As a result, net profit from recurring op- underpin strong growth prospects for sport erations totaled 1.05 billion euros, or $1.47 and lifestyle products. billion, in 2011 versus 835 million euros, or Pinault noted that he recently visited $1.11 billion, the previous year. Taking into Indonesia, for example, and predicted that account Redcats and Fnac Italy, net profit it “could become a bigger market for luxury rose 2.3 percent to 986 million euros, or than India,” given the right political will in $1.37 billion, in 2011. the nation. Recurring operating income rose 16.9 per- The executive also divulged that cent to 1.60 billion euros, or $2.23 billion, with Balenciaga would continue its global retail KEENAN the operating margin hitting a historic high of expansion with a new Paris location at 336 FOR MORE TEFANIE

S IMAGES, SEE 13.1 percent, up 70 basis points versus 2010. Rue Saint-Honoré.

Dollar figures are converted at average ex- He lauded that YSL made a “giant step” BY WWD.com/ change rates for the periods forward in terms of prof- fashion-news.

to which they refer. François-Henri itability, and that growth PHOTOS In 2011 as a whole, the Pinault prospects are “very good.” group recorded sales of Full-year sales advanced 12.23 billion euros, or $17.03 31.4 percent while operat- Nicole Richie Does Line for QVC billion, up 11.1 percent on ing income grew more than version for QVC because it can be the previous year. Revenues fourfold. However, asked By MARCY MEDINA worn so many ways. I paid close at- E

rose 11.2 percent in the R if the house would renew tention to the seams to give a woman

fourth quarter to 3.63 bil- AIT its contract with Stefano BEVERLY HILLS, Calif. — Aiming a nice shape, because a lot of maxi- M lion euros, or $4.89 billion. E Pilati, YSL’s creative di- to offer her bohemian-chic wares to dresses can feel tent-y,” said Richie. QU

Though the results were INI rector since 2004, Pinault a wider audience, Nicole Richie has For the $257 bag, Richie tried to M

above market consensus O replied with a big smile: “I teamed up with QVC for The Nicole come up with a day-to-night shape D

estimates, shares in PPR BY won’t make any comments Richie Collection, set to debut on the that holds everything.

closed down 3.3 percent about any designers.” home-shopping network’s “The Buzz “These details are all on pur-

at 120.40 euros, or $159.55, PHOTO Earlier at the press con- on the Red Carpet — Live From L.A.” pose,” she said of the chevron seams on disappointment over ference, Pinault broke his show on Feb. 24. placed to give the bag management’s decision to keep its dividend silence on YSL’s bitter legal battle with French Ranging in price a streamlined shape payment unchanged from last year at 3.50 footwear designer Christian Louboutin, saying from $75 to $257, and the zipper placed euros, or $4.60, a share. he was confident YSL would win the right to the line consists of a in the middle, elimi- Analysts also noted that fourth-quarter continue selling shoes with red soles. crinkled maxidress, nating the need to dig sales at PPR’s cash cow brand Gucci came in “We won the first proceedings in quite pre- a printed kimono through the contents. below estimates, totaling 886.5 million euros, cise, clear terms and I am therefore very con- jacket and a leather “Nicole represents or $1.19 billion, 13.6 percent higher in report- fident with regard to this case, even if I regret hobo bag, with more a unique combina- ed terms and up 12.2 percent on a comparable it, because these are two great houses and I print-driven blous- tion of designer and basis. This compared with an HSBC forecast think we have better things to do than to fight es, maxiskirts and celebrity,” said Doug for a 16 percent increase in organic terms. in court over a question of color,” he said. dresses to follow. Howe, QVC’s execu- Palus — like Pinault, proudly wearing a Puma separately reported a 15.6 percent “QVC is a well- tive vice president of three-piece suit from PPR’s latest acquisi- rise in sales on Wednesday. Sales for PPR’s oiled machine and to merchandise, plan- tion, Brioni — did not provide a specific ex- sport & lifestyle division as a whole were up be in business with ning and sales. “She planation for the slowdown, but noted that 25.9 percent during the quarter to 785.1 mil- them is so exciting has a strong point of Gucci limited supply to wholesalers in Italy lion euros, or $1.06 billion. because it gives me an opportunity to view about bohemian influence, from in the fourth quarter as part of its ongoing Revenues at books and electronics retailer design for a much broader range of flowing shapes and a love of prints, efforts to clean up distribution. He noted Fnac fell 3.3 percent during the period to 1.45 women,” said Richie, who was at the which always resonate strongly with that sales in Gucci’s store network were up billion euros, or $1.95 billion. The company Four Seasons Hotel Thursday, where our customer.” sharply in 2011 as a whole, with double-digit last week replaced the head of its French she was shooting a segment on get- In addition to the Red Carpet show, gains in all product categories, increased division, naming former Fnac Spain general ting red-carpet-ready. “I wanted you Richie will appear in a one-hour show footfall and rising average prices. manager Enrique Martinez to the post. to be able to walk into your closet in September, with additional appear- Despite costs linked to celebrations of the PPR’s financial documents revealed that with your eyes closed and pick some- ances in November and December. brand’s 90th anniversary and the opening of Redcats recorded sales of 3.05 billion euros, or thing special.” “I want to connect with the a Gucci museum in Florence, the brand’s op- $4.24 billion, in 2011 versus 3.12 billion euros, The $115 maxidress, whose design women watching by letting them erating margin gained 180 basis points last or $4.14 billion, the previous year. Operating was inspired by Ossie Clark and Thea know that we are similar in many year to reach a historic high of 30.2 percent, income fell to 153 million euros, or $213 mil- Porter, is a key piece for Richie, who ways; I’m a mother of two and I work. he added. Gucci had 376 stores at the end of lion, from 215 million euros, or $285 million, a has a similar version in her Winter We all want to feel relaxed on the in- 2011 and planned to open 45 more in 2012, year earlier. — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS Kate collection. side but stylish on the outside. And including 20 in the Asia-Pacific region. FROM MILES SOCHA “It was important for me to do a that’s what I’m trying to provide.”

Looks from the new Belstaff collection. are skinny suede biker trousers, and a Belstaff Steps Into Luxury surfeit of cashmere, angora and wool knits, which Cooper said are meant to motorcycle enthusiasts. The company later cling to the body in a “sensual” way. By SAMANTHA CONTI became the go-to brand for bikers, aviators Cooper said about 80 percent of the de- and sporty, outdoorsy types. Belstaff also sign concepts are for both men and women, LONDON — Belstaff is revving up for made goggles, gloves, boots and helmets. which is why it was important to him to its debut at London Fashion Week on With those inspirations, Cooper — who make the clothes as tactile as possible. Sunday, preparing to unveil a sporty was formerly design director, vice presi- Harry Slatkin, the company’s chief ex- ready-to-wear and accessories collection dent of outerwear at Burberry — has cre- ecutive officer and an investor in Belstaff focused on luxury fabrics, exotic skins, ated devoré “mud-splatter” prints for alongside Tommy Hilfiger and Labelux heritage details and finishes. dresses, biker chain-inspired weaves for Group, said there are 300 different acces- Chief creative director Martin Cooper, chunky knitwear and “biker tread” motifs sories styles for men and women, including a Burberry alumnus, said he headed for leather pieces. The branding on but- suede clutches with the “biker tread” motif, straight to the archives for inspiration tons says Belstaff England, and hardware crocodile weekend bags, and a small selec- for the men’s and women’s collection. includes metal underarm vents and tog- tion of boots and shoes. Slatkin said Belstaff “Everything in this collection needed to gles, chunky zips and metal biker chains. will go bigger on shoes for spring, and added refer to the archive, and we really want- While the collection is heavy on outer- that overall Belstaff is looking to generate 60 ed to take ownership of the brand icons,” wear — from woolen peacoats trimmed percent of revenues from women’s wear and said Cooper during a walk-through here. in cavallo leather, to cropped biker jack- 40 percent from men’s wear going forward. He pointed to a plethora of Road ets made from hand-painted python, to a The average entry price for a jacket, Masters — Belstaff ’s classic belted jackets long, PVC “dispatch rider’s coat” — there he said, is $850, and the entire collection that land just past the hip — in oiled croc- is also a wide selection of rtw and acces- is made in Italy. odile, pearlized python, napa or cavallo. sories. Satin dresses have delicate metal In the fall, the brand plans to open Belstaff was founded in Staffordshire in chains embedded down the front, while flagships in London and New York and the English Midlands in 1924 and became silk ones come with epaulets and collar will relaunch its e-commerce business known for its wax cotton fabric jackets for latches echoing the brand’s coats. There in September.

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