Apocalypse Wow Karl Lagerfeld Dared to Take Chanel in a New Direction — to the Dark Side
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PLUS: WWD SURVEYS KORS ON KORS CONSUMERS ON WHAT THE DESIGNER TALKS PARIS, FASHION’S FAST KATE MIDDLETON PACE, PROJECT RUNWAY AND ‘THE NORMS.” SHOULD WEAR ON HER BIG DAY. SEE STYLE, PAGE 6 WWD PAGE 6. WEDNESDAY, MARCH 9, 2011 Q $3.00 QWOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Apocalypse Wow Karl Lagerfeld dared to take Chanel in a new direction — to the dark side. The collection, which literally rose from the ashes, was atypically rooted in a men’s wear theme with a tough, mostly monochromatic statement. Lagerfeld showed great new takes on tweed jackets, handsome shearlings and pants that came cuffed or bunched at the ankle. For more from Paris, see Style, pages 4 and 5. PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI IN WWD TODAY DESIGNERS ON THE EDGE Topshop Heads to Canada PAGE 4 RETAIL: The British fast-fashion chain links with The Bay to open shop-in-shops. Worries Grow Industry The Original Web Wunderkind PAGE 5 MEDIA: Erin Ralph was Tavi before Tavi. Now, Breeds Substance Abuse after being ousted from the magazine she helped co-found, Ralph is on to her third act. having an increasingly devastating impact on By WWD STAFF fashion’s creative leaders. Georgia May Jagger’s Jeans But there is also a chorus of protest STYLE, PAGE 8 IS THE INTENSIFIED PRESSURE AND against an indulgent industry that coddles de- DENIM: The daughter of Mick Jagger breakneck speed of today’s fashion industry signers and perpetuates wild-child behavior. and Jerry Hall looks to rock ’n’ roll for a driving its creative talents to the brink? “Fashion, I think, has caught up so many de- V capsule collection of stretch denim jeans. Or does the responsibility to avoid the fl ame- signers in such a fever,” lamented a rueful Joan outs that have marred Paris Fashion Week fall on Burstein, the owner of Browns in London, who the shoulders of designers and their minders? braved a broken arm to attend Friday’s Dior That’s a debate stirring in the wake of last show and Sunday’s John Galliano presentation. week’s dramatic ouster of John Galliano from The retailer, who famously bought Christian Dior over allegations of drunken, an- Galliano’s 1984 graduation collection, pointed ti-Semitic outbursts, as well as the revelation a fi nger of blame at fashion’s breakneck pace that Christophe Decarnin was recently treated for contributing to the designer’s fall from in hospital for depression and unable to attend grace, Decarnin’s apparent breakdown and his Balmain show, under doctor’s orders. McQueen’s suicide at age 40. The two incidents — coupled with Lee “I’m sure it’s the pressure and it’s every- Alexander McQueen’s suicide last year, with thing that’s not normal at the moment. I think “signifi cant” levels of cocaine among sub- this desire to have four collections a year, and stances the coroner found in his blood — sug- you’ve got to have it, and we want it in early; gest that the combustible combination of big money, fast fame and business pressure is SEE STYLE, PAGE 2 THE TAILORED, TRUSTED, TIMELESS SHIRT THAT SIMPLY REFUSES TO WRINKLE. FIND IT AT JNY.COM/theshirt 800-848-8668 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, MARCH 9, 2011 WWD.COM Topshop, David’s Heading North A&F Alleges Infringement Abercrombie & Fitch Co. has filed a lawsuit against Surf Style Retail Management Inc., alleging trade- By DAVID MOIN Brooks has been bringing in many new brands to elevate mark infringement and unfair competition, among the offering and productivity of The Bay. “Most of the cool other claims. TOPSHOP IS COMING TO Canada via a franchising deal brands are already in Canada in some form, but Topshop The suit, filed on March 1 in a federal court in with the Hudson’s Bay Co. changes the landscape for The Bay. We have been working Miami, named as defendants four individuals who And Hudson’s Bay will be moving fast to open locations on this deal for a couple of years,” she said. are also executives of Surf Style: Avi Ovaknin, Doron for Topshop, and its men’s wear counterpart Topman, as “This represents another step in our continued inter- Malinasky, Eliyahu Levy and Shaul Zislin. either stand-alone stores or shop-in-shops inside The Bay national growth,” added Sir Philip Green, owner of the Court papers said a flying seagull logo on Surf department stores as soon as this fall. Arcadia Group, which owns Topshop and Topman. The Style’s apparel and beach accessories was “identical, “Our first three are planned for Toronto, then Vancouver British-based retailer already has franchises in the Middle or nearly identical, and confusingly similar to A&F’s then Montreal,” Bonnie Brooks, president and chief execu- East and Europe, and is considering the Far East. Topshop seagull mark,” which A&F uses for its Hollister brand. tive officer of The Bay, told WWD. “In The lawsuit said A&F sent a cease-and-desist three to five years, we could have as letter to the defendants last May 14 and that they many as 30 to 50, with probably the ma- agreed to stop using the alleged infringing mark in jority being shop-in-shops.” an agreement on July 23. Brooks would not detail the initial Instead of stopping their use of the infringing locations, but sources said the first mark, court papers said, the defendants began and Topshops will open inside The Bay have continued to use it alongside their own Surf in Toronto, specifically units on Bloor Style house mark, and that the action has “caused, Street and on Yonge Street, as well as and continues to cause, substantial and irreparable in the Yorkdale and Sherway Gardens harm to A&F’s goodwill and reputation.” malls. In some cases, they could be as A&F is seeking an injunction to bar the defendants large as 15,000 square feet and situated from using the infringing marks, destruction of infring- in men’s, women’s and accessories de- ing materials and monetary damages. partments on two or three floors. The According to attorney Michael Chesal of Peretz 92-unit Bay operates six giant flagships Chesal & Herrmann, which represents the defendants, in Canada each in excess of 600,000 “Surf Style respects the intellectual property rights of square feet. They could easily accom- others and believes that A&F is trying to spread its net modate Topshops. David Kutas, who left too broadly and prevent the use of any seagull by any- Gucci in New York a few months ago, one. Our clients’ products and stores are beach relat- where he served as vice president and ed, and seagulls are very closely related to the beach.” general merchandise manager for Gucci Based in Hollywood, Fla., Surf Style operates 24 America, will be supervising The Bay’s stores and an e-commerce site at surf-style.com. Topshop operation. — VICKI M. YOUNG The Bay is expected to officially unveil the deal today. It underscores Topshop in SoHo. the increasingly global nature of retail and Canada’s appeal. Earlier this year, Hudson’s Bay un- opened a flagship in April 2009 in the SoHo section of New Charney Hit With Sex Suit veiled a deal with Target Corp. to provide the discounter York, and has openings set for Brazil and Chicago. AMERICAN APPAREL with 100 to 150 locations by 2014 from its Zellers chain, The 300-unit David’s Bridal chain, privately owned by founder Dov Charney which is being downsized. And just last week, David’s Leonard Green & Partners, last week opened stores in the is being accused of Bridal opened its first two Canadian stores, marking the Meadowvale Shopping Centre in Mississauga, Ontario, using a teenage em- company’s first international venture. and in the Smart Centre Scarborough in the Scarborough ployee as a sex slave in Limited Brands Inc. re- section of Toronto. “Canada is a proving ground,” Brian 2008 when the employ- cently expanded into Canada Beitler, David’s Bridal executive vice president and chief ee was 18 years old, with Victoria’s Secret, Pink marketing officer, told WWD. “It’s our first international according to a report and Bath & Body Works, and foray and potential stepping stone” to other foreign coun- by the New York Daily also owns the Canada-based tries. “But at this point, it’s premature to really talk about News. The sexual ad- La Senza intimate apparel the next steps. Our goal was to enter Canada, demonstrate vances are said to have chain. Intermix will open a it’s a viable market and see what the future holds. We take started when the plain- 2,500-square-foot flagship on things one step at a time.” tiff was 17. Bloor Street in the fall, and Beitler said David’s Bridal could open 10 to 12 stores The woman, Irene plans a Canadian rollout. in Canada and expects to unveil more sites this year. The Morales, who is Kohl’s, J.C. Penney, Macy’s stores will be 8,000 to 10,000 square feet, like the U.S. now 20, reportedly Dov and Kmart are among the fleet. The chain sells bridal gowns, bridal party, special filed a lawsuit on Charney American retailers with no occasion and prom dresses, and accessories. The brid- Friday in Brooklyn stores in Canada, with Kohl’s alwear is priced from $299 to $1,600, including designer Supreme Court and the most eager to expand gowns from White by Vera Wang, launched last month, is seeking $260 million in damages.