PLUS: WWD SURVEYS KORS ON KORS CONSUMERS ON WHAT THE DESIGNER TALKS PARIS, FASHION’S FAST KATE MIDDLETON PACE, PROJECT RUNWAY AND ‘THE NORMS.” SHOULD WEAR ON HER BIG DAY. SEE STYLE, PAGE 6 WWD PAGE 6.

WEDNESDAY, MARCH 9, 2011 Q $3.00 QWOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Apocalypse Wow Karl Lagerfeld dared to take Chanel in a new direction — to the dark side. The collection, which literally rose from the ashes, was atypically rooted in a men’s wear theme with a tough, mostly monochromatic statement. Lagerfeld showed great new takes on tweed jackets, handsome shearlings and pants that came cuffed or bunched at the ankle. For more from Paris, see Style, pages 4 and 5.

PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI

IN WWD TODAY DESIGNERS ON THE EDGE

Topshop Heads to Canada PAGE 4 RETAIL: The British fast-fashion chain links with The Bay to open shop-in-shops. Worries Grow Industry The Original Web Wunderkind PAGE 5 MEDIA: Erin Ralph was Tavi before Tavi. Now, Breeds Substance Abuse after being ousted from the magazine she helped co-found, Ralph is on to her third act. having an increasingly devastating impact on By WWD STAFF fashion’s creative leaders. Georgia May Jagger’s Jeans But there is also a chorus of protest STYLE, PAGE 8 IS THE INTENSIFIED PRESSURE AND against an indulgent industry that coddles de- DENIM: The daughter of Mick Jagger breakneck speed of today’s fashion industry signers and perpetuates wild-child behavior. and Jerry Hall looks to rock ’n’ roll for a driving its creative talents to the brink? “Fashion, I think, has caught up so many de- V capsule collection of stretch denim jeans. Or does the responsibility to avoid the fl ame- signers in such a fever,” lamented a rueful Joan outs that have marred Paris Fashion Week fall on Burstein, the owner of Browns in London, who the shoulders of designers and their minders? braved a broken arm to attend Friday’s Dior That’s a debate stirring in the wake of last show and Sunday’s John Galliano presentation. week’s dramatic ouster of John Galliano from The retailer, who famously bought Christian Dior over allegations of drunken, an- Galliano’s 1984 graduation collection, pointed ti-Semitic outbursts, as well as the revelation a fi nger of blame at fashion’s breakneck pace that Christophe Decarnin was recently treated for contributing to the designer’s fall from in hospital for depression and unable to attend grace, Decarnin’s apparent breakdown and his Balmain show, under doctor’s orders. McQueen’s suicide at age 40. The two incidents — coupled with Lee “I’m sure it’s the pressure and it’s every- Alexander McQueen’s suicide last year, with thing that’s not normal at the moment. I think “signifi cant” levels of cocaine among sub- this desire to have four collections a year, and stances the coroner found in his blood — sug- you’ve got to have it, and we want it in early; gest that the combustible combination of big money, fast fame and business pressure is SEE STYLE, PAGE 2 THE TAILORED, TRUSTED, TIMELESS SHIRT THAT SIMPLY REFUSES TO WRINKLE.

FIND IT AT JNY.COM/theshirt 800-848-8668 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, MARCH 9, 2011 WWD.COM Topshop, David’s Heading North A&F Alleges Infringement Abercrombie & Fitch Co. has filed a lawsuit against Surf Style Retail Management Inc., alleging trade- By DAVID MOIN Brooks has been bringing in many new brands to elevate mark infringement and unfair competition, among the offering and productivity of The Bay. “Most of the cool other claims. TOPSHOP IS COMING TO Canada via a franchising deal brands are already in Canada in some form, but Topshop The suit, filed on March 1 in a federal court in with the Hudson’s Bay Co. changes the landscape for The Bay. We have been working Miami, named as defendants four individuals who And Hudson’s Bay will be moving fast to open locations on this deal for a couple of years,” she said. are also executives of Surf Style: Avi Ovaknin, Doron for Topshop, and its men’s wear counterpart Topman, as “This represents another step in our continued inter- Malinasky, Eliyahu Levy and Shaul Zislin. either stand-alone stores or shop-in-shops inside The Bay national growth,” added Sir Philip Green, owner of the Court papers said a flying seagull logo on Surf department stores as soon as this fall. Arcadia Group, which owns Topshop and Topman. The Style’s apparel and beach accessories was “identical, “Our first three are planned for Toronto, then Vancouver British-based retailer already has franchises in the Middle or nearly identical, and confusingly similar to A&F’s then Montreal,” Bonnie Brooks, president and chief execu- East and Europe, and is considering the Far East. Topshop seagull mark,” which A&F uses for its Hollister brand. tive officer of The Bay, told WWD. “In The lawsuit said A&F sent a cease-and-desist three to five years, we could have as letter to the defendants last May 14 and that they many as 30 to 50, with probably the ma- agreed to stop using the alleged infringing mark in jority being shop-in-shops.” an agreement on July 23. Brooks would not detail the initial Instead of stopping their use of the infringing locations, but sources said the first mark, court papers said, the defendants began and Topshops will open inside The Bay have continued to use it alongside their own Surf in Toronto, specifically units on Bloor Style house mark, and that the action has “caused, Street and on Yonge Street, as well as and continues to cause, substantial and irreparable in the Yorkdale and Sherway Gardens harm to A&F’s goodwill and reputation.” malls. In some cases, they could be as A&F is seeking an injunction to bar the defendants large as 15,000 square feet and situated from using the infringing marks, destruction of infring- in men’s, women’s and accessories de- ing materials and monetary damages. partments on two or three floors. The According to attorney Michael Chesal of Peretz 92-unit Bay operates six giant flagships Chesal & Herrmann, which represents the defendants, in Canada each in excess of 600,000 “Surf Style respects the intellectual property rights of square feet. They could easily accom- others and believes that A&F is trying to spread its net modate Topshops. David Kutas, who left too broadly and prevent the use of any seagull by any- Gucci in New York a few months ago, one. Our clients’ products and stores are beach relat- where he served as vice president and ed, and seagulls are very closely related to the beach.” general merchandise manager for Gucci Based in Hollywood, Fla., Surf Style operates 24 America, will be supervising The Bay’s stores and an e-commerce site at surf-style.com. Topshop operation. — VICKI M. YOUNG The Bay is expected to officially unveil the deal today. It underscores Topshop in SoHo. the increasingly global nature of retail and Canada’s appeal. Earlier this year, Hudson’s Bay un- opened a flagship in April 2009 in the SoHo section of New Charney Hit With Sex Suit veiled a deal with Target Corp. to provide the discounter York, and has openings set for Brazil and Chicago. AMERICAN APPAREL with 100 to 150 locations by 2014 from its Zellers chain, The 300-unit David’s Bridal chain, privately owned by founder Dov Charney which is being downsized. And just last week, David’s Leonard Green & Partners, last week opened stores in the is being accused of Bridal opened its first two Canadian stores, marking the Meadowvale Shopping Centre in Mississauga, Ontario, using a teenage em- company’s first international venture. and in the Smart Centre Scarborough in the Scarborough ployee as a sex slave in Limited Brands Inc. re- section of Toronto. “Canada is a proving ground,” Brian 2008 when the employ- cently expanded into Canada Beitler, David’s Bridal executive vice president and chief ee was 18 years old, with Victoria’s Secret, Pink marketing officer, told WWD. “It’s our first international according to a report and Bath & Body Works, and foray and potential stepping stone” to other foreign coun- by the New York Daily also owns the Canada-based tries. “But at this point, it’s premature to really talk about News. The sexual ad- La Senza intimate apparel the next steps. Our goal was to enter Canada, demonstrate vances are said to have chain. Intermix will open a it’s a viable market and see what the future holds. We take started when the plain- 2,500-square-foot flagship on things one step at a time.” tiff was 17. Bloor Street in the fall, and Beitler said David’s Bridal could open 10 to 12 stores The woman, Irene plans a Canadian rollout. in Canada and expects to unveil more sites this year. The Morales, who is Kohl’s, J.C. Penney, Macy’s stores will be 8,000 to 10,000 square feet, like the U.S. now 20, reportedly Dov and Kmart are among the fleet. The chain sells bridal gowns, bridal party, special filed a lawsuit on Charney American retailers with no occasion and prom dresses, and accessories. The brid- Friday in Brooklyn stores in Canada, with Kohl’s alwear is priced from $299 to $1,600, including designer Supreme Court and the most eager to expand gowns from White by Vera Wang, launched last month, is seeking $260 million in damages. According across borders, according to as well as those under the Oleg Cassini and Galina to the lawsuit, the forced sex lasted for eight sources. Retailers already op- Signature labels. Unlike most bridal salons, David’s months. Morales didn’t resign immediately be- erating in Canada include Wal- Bridal carries a large assortment, in regular, petite and cause she was reportedly promised job advance- Mart and Lowe’s. large sizes. ment and didn’t report the crime fearing the Canada is considered ripe “Everything in our U.S. stores will be, for the most part, trauma and embarrassment of a public proceed- A look from for expansion because there’s in our Canadian stores,” Beitler said. “Canadians have the ing. Charney, reached on his cell phone Tuesday, David’s Bridal. less competition there, it’s same desire for quality, style and design at amazing values. declined to comment. Charney has been sued right across the U.S. border That’s why they were right for us. We expect our entry will for sexual harassment in the past and has also and Canadians complain about be a game changer for the Canadian bridal market.” stirred controversy with his outré ad campaigns a lack of shopping opportunities at home. “Those in the Also on the international front, Aéropostale Inc. said and outrageous statements. None of the previ- know have been anxiously waiting for Topshop and Topman Tuesday it signed a licensing agreement with Montreal ous suits were proven in court. In recent years, to come to Canada on a large scale,” Brooks said. “We will PTE Ltd., a joint venture between Apparel Group LLC the company’s debt ballooned and the firm was in be buying the product from Topshop and Topman and pay- and Jay Gee Melwani Group, to open approximately 25 danger of falling out of compliance with its main ing a royalty based on purchases.” stores in Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia over the lender. In October, American Apparel named for- Deliveries will arrive once or twice a month to keep next five years. The first store is scheduled to open in mer Blockbuster executive Tom Casey as its act- the trendy and often irreverent Topshop assortment fresh. Singapore later this year. ing president.

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MEDIA The Original Wunderkind Erin Ralph was Tavi before Tavi. Where do you go from there?

By ALESSANDRA CODINHA a lunch at The Breslin in late January. “But with no media attention. She started NEW YORK — On a temperate midwin- out writing a blog and making comments, ter night last month, a line of what looked whereas I started out with a whole entire like teenage runaways piled into a freight magazine that had fashion, music, culture, elevator in a loft-building in Chelsea. On etc…blogs didn’t exist when I started. It closer inspection, the pouting, bespangled was actually easier to have a unique voice. youths were an aggressively hip crowd Now you really have to do something differ- from a cross section of the art, fashion ent to stand out.” and publishing industries. They’d been Ralph came of age as fashion flooded invited to join Bullett magazine at its new the Internet. There has been a surge of offices to celebrate Jessica White, a Sports youth on the editorial side of the fashion Illustrated swimsuit model who, a week industry during the last decade, due in no previously, had gained some tabloid noto- small part to an influx of bloggers: Web- riety for ending a night of clubbing by al- based content from enthusiastic young peo- legedly hitting a woman who attempted to ple considering collections, snapping street steal her taxi. portraits or presenting their own opinions White was auctioning off several nude on celebrity style. prints of herself to benefit the charity Eight years ago, with LuxuryFashion.com, Angel Wings, which aids children from Ralph was an early figure in that youth move- Erin Ralph

economically challenged areas. With the ment. Bullett was her first play for the adult ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY fashion week party at full tilt, the mercu- table. Launched late last year, with Ralph as rial model decided to give an impromptu editor in chief, the magazine reads like a fu- gether in nine months. So this next project? the fashion world, the perks of the job,” speech. White began to speak into a mi- sion of Interview and Visionaire. It describes I could do it in two. I don’t want to say start- she said. “I wanted to establish a pur- crophone, but the sound system didn’t itself in volume one as a “revolutionary ing a magazine is easy, but, once you know pose. I wanted to make the world a bet- quite cooperate. A young woman in a tight transmedia platform,” which for now means what you’re doing…its not difficult.” That ter place…to unite people. To inspire black cocktail dress, heels, and recently a magazine and Web site. Despite its indie next project is not a magazine, but another people. My big thing is helping people. bleached blonde updo rushed through and newbie status, Bullett was able to land a “creative coalition” born seven hours after Maybe it’s a weakness, but whatever.” the crowd, admonishing those who were breadth of feature subjects for the first issue her departure from Bullett, which she has The loss of the reins at Bullett has not speaking over the model. including, to name a few, Cindy Crawford, dubbed United Culture — an online social dampened Ralph’s can-do spirit or her out- “If you have any respect for me,” she ad- Elizabeth Banks and Mark Ruffalo. Its sec- media platform exclusively for artists. look on the future of media (under the right vised, “you will stop talking!” ond issue, tentatively set to hit newsstands “It’s really an ego thing, wanting a guidance). When she spoke to WWD after The blonde was Erin Ralph, and those later his month, will feature Léa Seydoux magazine,” Ralph admitted with a smile. her departure, Ralph was poised, motivated were her offices, her party — and, until last and Stephen Moyer on its covers. “Everyone said that it was, back when I and proud of her accomplishments. “This week, her magazine. Now she’s on to her And yet the ongoing development of first talked about Bullett, and I denied it... is still a success story!” she laughed into third act. Ralph’s career path may be proof that while but it’s true. You want a physical manifesta- a mug of steeping peppermint tea. There At the ripe old age of 26, Ralph is the co- such a move — from Internet entrepreneur tion of your dream.” were still some chinks in Ralph’s armor, founder of Bullett and actually something of to glossy editor, coupled with the office poli- Several times over several meetings, however. When asked whether her name a fashion lifer. A native of Wantage, N.J., she tics involved therein — makes perfect sense Ralph repeated inspirational phrases like will be on the masthead for Bullett’s spring began pitching big-city publications at age 11. to a young dreamer, it is not necessarily “Just do it!” with the fervor of a life coach, issue, Ralph winced almost imperceptibly By 13, she said, she’d been offered full-time going to be easy. As if to illustrate the point, or a Nike commercial. It is a fitting per- before widening her eyes and smiling. positions from companies that were unaware on March 4, while WWD was in the midst sonal mantra for someone with such a can- “I’m happy that this happened!” Ralph of her age. By her midteens, Ralph was run- of profiling her, Bullett’s investors bought do, did-do, is-doing attitude. At the earlier exclaimed of her departure from Bullett, ning LuxuryFashion.com, a Web site that of- Ralph out and replaced her, at least for now, lunch at The Breslin, Ralph explained how and one is inclined to believe her. “I think fered fashion-minded content alongside so- with Idil Tabanca, another co-founder and her early experiences online helped shape it’s awesome: I created this. It’s one idea: cialite and celebrity gossip centered on the the magazine’s visual director. (Ralph told her perky outlook. Hey, I have a million ideas. I can do this a bold-faced names of the era: the Hilton sis- WWD that Tabanca, 26, from Istanbul, is the “Most people’s self-esteem gets killed as million times. Bullett’s going to blow up and ters, Nicole Richie, Casey Johnson. In a 2003 project’s majority shareholder. A spokes- teenagers and their potential goes…” Ralph be huge. Sure, at first, I was clinging to it, I profile, a then-18-year-old Ralph told WWD woman for the magazine said the company interrupted herself to make a soundless, didn’t want to let go. And then I realized,” that, “by the time I’m 25, I’d like to have an is restructuring and “it has yet to be decid- plummeting dive motion with her hand. “I Ralph paused to stab a chunk of avocado, “if avant-garde magazine. Not quite as big as ed whether or not Idil will be the majority was working…I was in the city living this in- my mission is about people moving forward Nylon, more like Jalouse or Visionaire.” shareholder.” When asked about the identi- teresting, crazy life. I’d go back to this small and sharing their creativity with the world, The image of a media-savvy, young and ty of Bullet’s backers, the spokeswoman said town and all people cared about were these it’d be hypocritical of me to fight this. To unabashedly precocious fashion fanatic they preferred to be known as “an overseas really…simple things.” say ‘No, it’s my baby.’ I’ll go back to visit it, with a cultish Web site draws unavoidable investor.”) Two other co-founders, creative As she tells it, Ralph soon tired of watch it grow: it’s like it is my actual baby, comparisons to a certain tween Comme director Sah D’Simone and art director LuxuryFashion.com, and segued out of the being raised in a foster home. Luckily its des Garçons-loving member of the blog- James Orlando, will continue to round out Web-based celebrity-gossip world in order foster parents are cool and very talented.” geratti (who has been pursuing her own Bullett’s masthead. to pursue her more altruistic ideals. She Which is not to say she doesn’t have any magazine, in the image of long-shuttered At a Midtown cafe a few days after her had a brief stint as the editor in chief of takeaways. Sassy, with that fabled magazine’s founder, departure, Ralph was characteristically Zink magazine, but soon struck out on her “I’ve definitely learned that one should Jane Pratt). optimistic about her future endeavors. own again. self-finance,” she said. “So you’re really in “I feel like I was Tavi [Gevinson],” “It’s been about a year since we really “As I got older, I stopped worrying charge. That’s what I’m going to do with the Ralph said with an emphatic nod over began Bullett,” she explained. “I put it to- about things like the celebrity world, money from Bullett, for my next project.”

for Dinner” and created a blog, also be a place where there’s more of evolution. “When you’re in print you Momfilter. “It launched recently a curation of the blogosphere. “There have to justify the printed page but and is really kind of a labor of love,” are hundreds of people making these things are done online at such speed,” said Guzman. “When Cookie folded, blogs, which are labors of love and Guzman said. “In the digital space we memo pad we all still had mommy stuff on the it’s really my job as editor to keep have to unlearn so many things and brain. We haven’t tried to develop it my ear to the ground with various find ways to keep people engaged to FOURTH TIME’S A CHARM?: The director at West Elm. Reached by into a business.” Having said that, beats,” she said. “Publishing has keep a rich experience for the user.” appointment of Pilar Guzman as editor phone on Tuesday afternoon, Guzman there is a possibility that it will be changed so much. You need to get on As for the magazine, which was up in chief of Martha Stewart Living said the hiring process was a quick connected in some way to her new board with the fact that bloggers have 3 percent on the newsstand for the last marks the fourth person in two years one (she’s only been talking to job at Martha Stewart Living. “It’s become editors. If somebody knows half of 2010 — and up 20 percent in to take on the top job. Guzman, executives for a few weeks). something we’ve been talking about something better than I do, I want to advertising through the March issue founding editor of shuttered parenting Since Cookie closed in October but, for now, it’s a little pet project.” get on that bus.” according to Media Industry Newsletter magazine Cookie, succeeds Vanessa 2009, Guzman has taken various As for the content on Living’s Steering clear of taboo publishing — she said there are no hard and fast Holden, who left the publishing consulting gigs and freelanced, Web site, Guzman said it needs to words like redesign, she called the changes planned. “I’m just entering in, world in February to become creative wrote a cooking book called “Time complement the flagship title but upcoming changes to the site an so we’ll assess.” — AMY WICKS 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, MARCH 9, 2011 The Kate Debate: Weeding Down Wedding Gowns KATE MIDDLETON might be keeping mum on whether she’s picked Sarah TIMELESS QPositive (Thumbs-up) FEMININE Burton of Alexander McQueen to design BEAUTY QNeutral (No response) YET FASHION- her wedding dress, but the royal fian- QNegative (Thumbs-down) FORWARD cée did endorse one British label Tuesday — Burberry. 3% Middleton wore a beige wool SWEET AND GRACEFUL cashmere Burberry trench- coat with a frilled hem to 30% 3% 3% a public engagement with Prince William in Belfast, Northern Ireland, on Tuesday. 67% 32% 37% During the trip, the couple vis- ited Belfast’s city hall where, 65% 60% after meeting with the city’s lord mayor, Middleton spoke to members of the crowd who turned out to see the royal

Kate Middleton in Burberry Tuesday. VISUALS/DATA SOURCE: FIRST INSIGHT First Insight determined what people expect from Kate Middleton’s wedding gown. It should be strapless for sure, and from left, in satin with beaded embroidery and bodice, or chiffon A-line with chapel train and beaded back, or layered in tulle with beading and feathers. couple. She even gamely tossed a pancake, information from First Insight, which used a composite picture of the gown people as part of a Shrove Tuesday event organized its online interactive gaming software to believe Middleton should wear emerged. by the Northern Ireland Cancer Fund. engage hundreds of consumers in some The people perceive her as a “timeless The Burberry coat, which Middleton fantasy royal styling. Typically, First Insight beauty” wearing a princess-cut sleeve- paired with black opaque tights and uses its gaming technology to have consum- less gown with either a V- neck or strap- black court shoes, is part of the label’s ers create virtual stores that they merchan- less neckline, made of white satin (lace current spring line, and costs 650 pounds, dise and set prices for, helping retailers and was a close second) with beading, and a or about $1,057 at current exchange. manufacturers make product decisions and long train. Gathering and draping were of As for that wedding dress, the ques- obtain customer knowledge. less interest. They would also like to see tions are fl ying as to whether the prin- Of the 2,700 consumers that First Middleton wear a tiara (fewer were inter- cess bride will go modern and simple or Insight sent its Kate Middleton gaming ested in a veil) and to carry roses. Lilies of medieval and regal. platform to, 338 participated, and 319 the valley were a close second. WWD thought it would be fun to deter- played it all the way through. It took each Overwhelmingly, the fi ndings under- mine “the people’s choice” for Middleton’s consumer about five minutes on aver- scored Middleton’s potential to become a gown, and — who knows? — she might even age to complete. They were asked to vote major trendsetter regardless of what she be interested in what the common folk thumbs-up or thumbs-down on a variety of wears on her wedding day. — DAVID MOIN AND NINA JONES, LONDON PHOTO BY PRESS ASSOCIATION PHOTO BY think would serve her well. WWD culled silhouettes and attributes and from that,

BEAUTY BEAT Moschino Eyes the Male Market

By KERRY OLSEN The scent was com- posed by Nathalie Lorson of MILAN — Moschino Forever, Firmenich. Described as an the fashion house’s newest aromatic fougère, it includes scent, is out to capture the notes of kumquat, bergamot classic man. and star anise blended with The masculine fra- a heart of clary sage, tonka grance from Italy-based bean and black pepper. It fragrance house Euroitalia dries down into notes of vet- — Moschino’s licensee — fol- iver, musk and sandalwood. lows in the footsteps of the Moschino Forever will label’s other male scents, be available in three sizes, Moschino Friends, launched a 30-ml. eau de toilette for in 2005, and Moschino Uomo, 38.50 euros, or about $53; rolled out in 1997. 50 ml. for 51 euros, or about Moschino creative direc- $69.50, and 100 ml. for 69 tor Rossella Jardini said the euros, or about $94. scent’s name was inspired A print ad was produced by an appeal that’s meant by M/M Paris and photog- to be timeless: “It’s a bit rapher Alasdair McLellan like the Moschino fashion in Paris. The campaign line where our forte is re- features British model and interpreting classics with musician Josh Beech, who elegance and irony.” also features in the fashion Moschino Forever is roll- A Moschino Forever ad. label’s spring men’s wear ing out now in Italy and is advertising campaign. slated to reach 10,000 doors worldwide. A U.S. The scent’s bottle mirrors the Italian brand’s launch is scheduled for the second half of this year. quirky positioning with an impactful silver cap Industry sources estimate the scent could gener- that bears the brand’s logo, paired with a classic ate about 25 million euros, or about $34.5 million linear bottle design fashioned from transparent at current exchange, in fi rst-year wholesale sales. glass to showcase the juice’s bold color.

North American beauty businesses. Curti Promoted at J&J He has worked in his current role for two STEFANO CURTI, current president of Johnson years; Curti joined J&J more than 18 years ago & Johnson Consumer Products Co./Beauty, now in brand management for J&J SpA in Italy. Since has an expanded role. then, he has held various marketing and gen- Curti has been named president of Global eral management positions including managing Skincare, responsible for the global J&J skin care director in Europe with responsibility for the business, which includes Johnson’s (both the baby EMEA Wound Care franchise, the Scandinavian and adult businesses), Neutrogena, Aveeno, RoC, businesses and the European integration of Clean & Clear, Lubriderm, Ambi, Purpose, and the Rembrandt from the Gillette Co. regional Asian, European, Latin American and — ANDREA NAGEL WWD WEDNESDAY, MARCH 9, 2011 7 WWD.COM

season,” she shrugged. Cassavetes’ other half, ASH TUESDAY: In their pretty dresses, front-row Sébastien Chenut from Scratch Massive, said VIPs stood out like flowers against Chanel’s FASHION SCOOPS he has been back in the recording studio for a apocalyptic show set in the Grand Palais, a rocky new yet-to-be-named album. landscape of smoking black volcanic ash. “I Alexa Chung donned a vintage Versus dress think dark shoes are needed to walk in for this MAMA SMURF: “It’s part Wonder Woman, part for a Fendi bash across town at Le Montana. “A kind of planet,” laughed Inès de la Fressange. Smurf,” Katy Perry said of the outfit she wore to Katy Perry bit like Elizabeth Hurley,” she teased, pointing “It’s totally crazy, I never thought the place the Jean-Charles de Castelbajac show, involving to the bright tier of safety pins fixed on the would be this big, it’s amazing,” said Emma a blue wig and retro specs. The singer, in town shoulders. Brazilian top model Isabeli Fontana Roberts, who stars in the soon-to-be-released to play a concert at the Zenith, was without a said her just-launched line of metallic nail colors “Scream 4.” The actress said she planned to chaperone, her husband Russell Brand having left for Brazilian brand Risqué was doing well. “I squeeze in some sightseeing during her trip. town the night before. “We are both workers,” couldn’t wear one of the colors tonight — it is “I’m going to enjoy some free time in Paris, then shrugged Perry. “She’s supercool, she’s so fun too difficult with all the shows,” she lamented. it’s back to L.A. — back to my boring life.” and fresh,” commented admirer Yelle (born Julie Paul & Joe’s 15th birthday party at the Delicately stepping through the rubble, Budet), who will be supporting Perry next week for L’Olympia theater drew its fair share of Virginie Ledoyen said she is about to start the British leg of her tour. Singer Mareva Galanter, starlets, including Alison Paradis. The bash filming a movie about the French Revolution. who is de Castlebajac’s partner, said she is began with a fashion show and ended with a “It will be filmed in Versailles,” she said, currently touring with Nouvelle Vague and working surprise concert by Jamiroquai. adding she will play a friend of Marie on her third album. Antoinette’s. Clémence Poésy arrived just as the show was about to start and had to watch TAKING CHARGE: Rie Rasmussen is back, and she’s from the nosebleed section. “I got stuck in a on a roll. The Danish model, artist and filmmaker, traffic jam,” she explained afterward. who recently signed a global contract with Next Model Management, has been taking meetings REEL STORIES: Yves Saint Laurent confirmed with her new team in Paris this week. Speaking at its reputation as one of Paris Fashion Week’s the Valentino show, the 33-year-old said she made hottest tickets with a front row that included the switch from One Management because she Isabelle Huppert, Kristin Scott Thomas, Kanye was spending most of her time promoting other West, Ronnie Wood and Florence Welch. Jane people. “It’s been a very strange path. I started STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY Birkin, who took in the show with daughter One with Scott Lipps and I’m still one of the show coincided with International Women’s Day, a Lou Doillon, said she was taking time off owners,” she said. “But in all this time, I felt that movement born in Copenhagen in 1910. after completing yet another project about personal management for me just wasn’t being her former husband Serge Gainsbourg, the done at One.” Rasmussen said Lipps remains a PARTY CENTRAL: Paris Fashion Week’s night French singer-songwriter who died 20 years friend, but she is looking forward to ramping up owls flitted from party to party Monday night. ago this year. Birkin compiled her old Super-8 her profile, both in terms of promoting her artistic The Swedes were out in force at a private footage of Gainsbourg for “My Private Images output and featuring in advertising campaigns. screening of four short fashion films at the Le of Serge,” a documentary screened on Franco- “I feel for women, it’s important, especially in Royal Monceau to mark the first anniversary German network Arte late last month. “I was this environment of extremely anorexic-looking of the LVMH-funded site Nowness. Director fed up with doing interviews, I’ve already done 13- to 17-year-old girls who are retouched,” Johan Renck, who has just wrapped filming so many that I thought, this is the last thing she said. “There are these already gorgeous the latest Valentino perfume ad campaign, I can give. I’ve got nothing left,” she said. models who instead of training and working featuring Freja Beha Erichsen, said he’s eager While editing the footage, Birkin discovered out and having a healthy diet and rocking their to work with Swedish actress Noomi Rapace, of Emma that some of the reels had been stolen, but bodies as a piece of art, they just don’t eat and “The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo” fame. Zoe Roberts she got them back with the help of her lawyer they look honestly sick.” It should come as no Cassavetes said she is collaborating on a bikini with Karl — though she would not name the culprit. “A surprise that Rasmussen is an ardent defender line with U.S. fashion label Tucker. “I have Lagerfeld. fiend who took them 17 years ago,” was all of women’s rights. As she pointed out, Tuesday’s missed this summer so we will do it for next she would say. PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY

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On Kors

PARIS — Hilary Rhoda was among the glamorous gals who donned Michael Kors to celebrate his 30th anniversary at the American ambassador’s residence in Paris. For more on the party, see page 7.

PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE 2 WWDSTYLE WEDNESDAY, MARCH 9, 2011 fashion Reaching the Brink: Does th

{Continued from page one} University, discounted the idea that creative people gave him carte blanche to intervene on Jacobs’ addic- in fashion are more inclined to suffer from substance tion problem. their clothes, not feel, ‘Ooh, I want to know what’s abuse. “They are more visible so we see when they suf- “That’s some nerve-racking thing to go in front next,’” Burstein said. “That’s what life should be fer,” she said. “I’ve seen people from schoolteachers to of somebody and say, ‘Look, I know my career is on about, enjoying every minute of every day, and every the homeless to the parents of presidents. Some of our the line. I know that Marc’s career is on the line, but day should be special: Not wanting to grab the next recent presidents had alcoholic fathers.” please help us,’’’ Duffy recalled. “When somebody one, but you can’t cope with this one. That’s the world However, she noted being famous stands to make says, ‘Robert, do whatever you need to do to get him at the moment, that’s how I feel, and it’s sad.” Galliano’s recovery more challenging. “They have no well,’ and remember when this happened, it literally Mental health experts acknowledge fashion’s inten- room to fail. It makes everything much more difficult got Marc on the plane, to rehab, and it wasn’t an easy sive nature. to be in the public eye and to stop using,” she said. experience. “Addiction is rife in the creative industry as there Marc Jacobs, who has been open about stints in “My experience has been very positive as far as a is a tremendous amount of pressure to produce the rehab and time spent in self-help groups for substance corporation supporting me,” he added. next big thing,” observed Don Serratt, chief executive abuse, said he’s heard lawyers and construction work- To be sure, there is widespread pathos for the officer at Life Works, a private treatment center in the human tragedy behind Galliano’s disgrace and U.K. “Creative [people], by definition, are sensitive Decarnin’s apparent psychological struggles. individuals. This sensitivity makes them more vul- “I have seen so many people do monstrous things nerable to being hurt [when criticized or told their You don’t accept this under the influence of alcohol and drugs,” said model work is bad]. My feeling is that the pain is more in- Natalia Vodianova as she exited the Dior show. “This tense for them, so they medicate.” kind of business if you’re is a disease. I hope John will get help, and that’s what In her dealings with a number of high-profile cli- he needs right now. That’s what we should care ents, Fiona Arrigo, founder of The Arrigo Programme too much of an artist. about is the person. in Somerset, England, finds that “over stimulation” is “Everything’s going on — as long as it goes on for a common modern malady. — KARL LAGERFELD John as well,” she continued. “He’s certainly not a “The 24-hour cycle of demand, deadlines, lack of bad man. We all know that.” privacy, stress, that many are under is going to trip Galliano was universally condemned over the

Natalia Robert Duffy Vodianova

Karl Lagerfeld Loulou de la Falaise

anybody if they do not have the chance to discharge, ers share their battles with stress and the need to mounting evidence of anti-Semitic slurs, and he apol- process, regain their balance,” she said. “It can cause medicate to pull all-nighters. ogized “unreservedly” for causing offense, vowed to distress and sometimes have dire consequences. What “You don’t think bank tellers have problems? You seek help and denies the claims made against him. we need more than anything is time and compassion.” don’t think people in the middle of the suburbs have “I’m not saying that he shouldn’t have the rules Pshaw, retorted Pierre Bergé, who famously dealt problems?” he asked. of everyone else, but it breaks my heart to see some- with Yves Saint Laurent’s psychological frailty and Jacobs said he learned in various treatment sce- one as talented as he is to be in this situation,” said substance abuse as his longtime business partner. narios that “blaming is such a complete waste. I Michael Kors. “I have a lot more sympathy for people who have mean, it’s so pointless. To say, you know, my mother Asked if there’s more psychological stress on de- to take the train to work every day. What a load of was absent and therefore I ran amok, it’s ridiculous,” signers today, he replied: “Oh, no question,” and rat- nonsense! No, no, no,” he sniped when asked if the said Jacobs, who shows his latest collection for Louis tled off his lengthy list of collections: pre-, diffusion, industry is to blame when its creative leaders crash. Vuitton today at the tail end of the Paris shows. “It’s handbags, shoes, men’s. “Designers are artisans who are extremely privileged a self-destructive nature, it’s a mental, physical and “I mean, I forget what season I’m in sometimes. to have a poetic profession. They are not artists. We a kind of spiritual malady. If you subscribe to any of And I think it has sped up certainly,” he said. “I think have to stop saying that they are.” the teaching of any of those programs, whether it’s every designer in today’s world, I don’t care whether Many observers argued that no extenuating fac- Overeaters Anonymous, Smokers Anonymous, people you’re a designer who makes clothes that are phan- tor relieves designers of their responsibility to them- who are happy and healthy and spiritually well don’t tasmagorical or very pragmatic, you have to figure out selves, their employers, co-workers and fans. do things to hurt themselves.” something that can ground you and bring you back.” “I see designing, running a company, like a high- Robert Duffy, the designer’s longtime business part- “As a human being, I feel really sorry for him,” ac- level athletic activity,” said Karl Lagerfeld. “I don’t ner and president of Marc Jacobs International, noted tress Kristin Scott Thomas said about Galliano. Yet want to hear anything about the fragility or any of that inordinate media attention on the fashion industry, given his age and stature, she stressed there is no ex- those things. If an athlete is too fragile to run, he can- like Hollywood, creates the impression of widespread cuse for the horrible comments he is alleged to have ut- not run. And this is exactly the same. You don’t accept substance abuse — and that it’s par for the course. tered. “It’s just totally irresponsible, very sad,” she said. this kind of business if you’re too much of an artist. “You cannot blame the industry,” Duffy said. “The His defenders are asking if the fashion system, “I believe in discipline, so I’m not the right person majority of actors are not drug addicts, the majority of led by his powerful employer, did enough to help the to cry about weakness and things like this, but maybe designers are not drug addicts.” British maverick face his demons. “Why attack David I’m not human.” Duffy also countered the inference that power- when Goliath is also to blame?” asked one, who spoke Dr. Lala A. Straussner, professor and director of ful luxury groups are indifferent to the strife their on condition of anonymity. the post-master’s certificate program in the Clinical employees might face, relating that LVMH Moët Human resources, privacy and mental health experts Approaches to Addictions Treatment at New York Hennessy Louis Vuitton chairman Bernard Arnault agreed that it’s tricky territory when personal strife or WWDSTYLE WEDNESDAY, MARCH 9, 2011 3 e Industry Breed Addiction?

addiction intersects with business responsibilities. ile. It’s a question of personal sensitivity,” Catroux Lily Allen and the late Isabella Blow, said, “Any high- “So many professions push their workers, who then said. “Thirty years ago, this may have gone on in pri- pressured, stressful environment can potentially exac- seek an outlet in drink, drugs, clubbing, and prostitu- vate, but because of our current YouTube culture, erbate symptoms of underlying issues” that can lead to tion — some way of getting a release. But I would say there is no more mystery, or privacy.” substance abuse. that in fashion there is an extra level of pressure and “The people who create fashion are artists, and “Drug use then becomes acceptable and is seen as expectation because it’s on public display — unlike all artists are subject to stress. If they have a break- the norm,” Lebentz said. “The more part of the culture banking, for instance,” said Dr. Sheri Jacobson, a psy- down in private, it’s not a big deal,” added Loulou it is, then you partake more frequently, become more chotherapist and clinical director of Harley Therapy de la Falaise, another member of the YSL clan. “The susceptible, and are more likely to have a predisposi- in London, which treats a variety of illnesses and dis- designers from the major houses are under so much tion and can become dependent.” orders, including addiction. “Sometimes, however, pressure, particularly financially.” Many observers discount the suggestion that fashion people are troubled to begin with — they’ve suffered Calvin Klein, Donatella Versace and Stefano Pilati has a higher incidence of substance abuse and psycho- abuse, neglect, abandonment — and they seek refuge are among designers working today who have gone logical stress and any special skills for dealing with it. in the glamour, drugs, alcohol, an unhealthy lifestyle. public about their substance abuse, and treatment “I don’t see fashion as an industry being ahead of You could theorize that some people are predisposed regimens, in recent years. the world in terms of this issue,” said Andrew Rosen, or more prone to go down the route of addiction, and In a 2003 interview, Klein told WWD his personal president and co-chief executive officer of Theory that the scope for burnout and escapism is greater.” addictions were distinct from his professional ambi- and Helmut Lang. “It’s a devastating and unfortunate Dusty heritage brands in search of rejuvenation tions and tribulations. “I don’t believe it has anything condition that happens in every walk of life. It doesn’t have often turned to incendiary and edgy talents to im- to do with work, but, you know, I’m no expert about it, make it better or OK, it’s a devastating illness to all prove their fortunes — as Dior did with Galliano, who he said. “As you can imagine, I’m trying to deal with it, those around it. Drug addiction, and addiction in gen- woke up the French couture house. Unfortunately, this so I’m not one who should be speaking on the subject, eral, is unfortunately part of society today. approach can serve to enable bad behavior, accord- but I don’t believe it has anything to do with work or “Maybe because we’re so close to our industry, we ing to Lucian James, creative director and founder of the industry that you’re in.” feel it more,” he said, adding it’s an issue that touches Paris-based consulting firm Agenda Inc. Yet Ed Filipowski, co-president of public relations everyone in the world and that “whenever it happens, “A big part of the fashion grammar is that design- and production agency KCD Worldwide, characterized it’s horrible.” ers are expected to add a frisson of shock to fashion “psychological stress” as a huge new factor today. He admired the way Dior handled the Galliano situ-

Pierre Bergé Marc Jacobs Andrew Rosen

houses; and to flirt with the dark side. There is a ation, first suspending him and then initiating termi- kind of badge of honor of being an enfant terrible nation procedures. “They acted quickly, and it is true and the work of Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexander You don’t think bank tellers that the company is so much more than one individu- McQueen and John Galliano is rarely mentioned al,” Rosen added. without their edginess being mentioned, and have problems? You don’t While few people who work in fashion are immune celebrated,” James said. “But the difference is that to pressure, some thrive on it. dealing with edgy themes in your professional life is “I’m the kind of person that I live under pressure, completely different from sharing opinions which nau- think people in the middle of but I enjoy the pressure, so it very much relates to seate your fans and destroy your business.” your own personality,” said photographer Mert Alas, In James’ estimation, “we are witnessing the begin- the suburbs have problems? who collaborates with Marcus Piggott on numerous ning of an important debate about the relationship be- fashion campaigns and editorials. “Of course we’re tween creative and business imperatives.” — MARC JACOBS all under pressure. The bus driver is under pres- He predicted “we’ll be seeing a greater focus on sure. But, you know, it’s how you come out of it. If you controlled creativity, and business continuance, over can make good fun with it, pressure can be enjoyable.” raw creativity, debates over ‘star designers’ are inevi- “As a publicist, I have also taken on many times the Deirdre Boyd, ceo of a U.K. charity called the table in the coming months, with a renewed focus on role of ‘fashion therapist’ to my clients,” Filipowski said. Addiction Recovery Foundation, speculated that the business side of things.” “Globalization, digitalization — the speed and scope of Galliano’s need for perfection was a likely contribu- The specter of substance abuse has been a sensitive our work — has added a tremendous amount of pressure tor to his addiction. “In order to hit rock bottom, most and taboo subject for years, even as fashion history is not only to the creative field but everyone in this indus- commonly, men have to lose their money and/or their littered with examples. try. I would venture to say we are all doing at least twice jobs. For women, it’s other factors,” she noted. Claude Montana, one of fashion’s biggest stars in as much work twice as fast as we were five years ago.” “The nature of big business is that it wants results, the Eighties, endured a slow fall from grace amidst According to Filipowski, substance abuse is “accel- but companies need to watch and monitor these situ- speculation of a hard-partying lifestyle. Halston was erating” in many fields. ations. Designers need to be nurtured,” said Vanessa notorious for his rollicking Studio 54 days. Before him “We are living in a time of easy opportunity. Our in- Denza, founder and owner of the London-based fash- came the slow deterioration of Saint Laurent, who dustry also is based on approval, judgment, what’s new ion recruitment agency Denza, drawing a parallel be- Bergé said was “born with a nervous breakdown.” and next,” he said. tween Galliano and McQueen. “Both of them needed a Betty Catroux, part of Saint Laurent’s inner circle, Lou Lebentz, addiction therapist at The Priory break, an opportunity to wind down for a few months, said what’s changed is the sped-up media culture. Hospital Roehampton in London, whose patients have but the nature of the business doesn’t allow them to do “Fashion designers are artists, and artists are frag- included Kate Moss, Amy Winehouse, Susan Boyle, that because it is nonstop.” PHOTOS COURTESY OF FAIRCHILD ARCHIVE OF FAIRCHILD PHOTOS COURTESY 4 WWDSTYLE WEDNESDAY, MARCH 9, 2011 collections

It’sChanel: What price Armageddon? ChanelAll in Chanel theAlexander D Probably a cool million or so, McQueen at least when orchestrated for Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld, whose highly stylized, bleak-chic set looked like the post-apocalyptic fallout wreaked upon the gorgeously surrealistic gray garden of rocks he planted for spring. Here, an endless stretch of barren planks embedded itself into a layer of dark gray ash, its flatness interrupted by ominous hunks of stone. If the terrain required some tough negotiation by guests arriving at the Grand Palais, well, Karl likes them to live in the moment. And a moment it was. While the set unintentionally played to the dark mood still weighing on Paris, its true purpose was a fashion clue: Say au revoir to chichi, ladies! At least for fall. Because in its place is something rarely dominant at Chanel: a collection based on men’s wear. And not of the dandified or tuxedoed variety, but one that found its attitude in a toughened spirit and its savoir faire in those fabulous tweeds. That said, retailers may mourn the lack of color. Save for a rare flash of red or dark green, the collection was virtually all black, gray and white, in various tweed configurations, often with jolts of pizzazz supplied by glittering silver metallics. Chanel The jackets looked new and savvy: what appeared to be two, a Chanel classic layered over a mannish version, was actually a single piece. Ka-ching! These were worn over pants, as Karl made a major statement with trousers either cuffed above or bunched at the ankle. But he didn’t stop there, embracing the onesie in the sturdiest of incarnations — utilitarian jumpsuits in thick tweeds, quilted handbag leathers and other fabrics, some made tougher with the addition of bold leather thigh pockets. Lagerfeld loved the look so much he carried it into evening, sometimes delicately, sometimes not. Even his gowns mocked the notion of evening delicacy; two tweed stunners were equal part audacity and allure.

Alexander McQueen: The extraordinary talent of Sarah Burton, beckoned by fate, rather than ambition or ego, to front a major house, is something to love about fashion today. On Tuesday night, Burton did herself and the rarefied Alexander McQueen ethos proud with an exquisite collection, an ode to “The Ice Queen and Her Court.” Burton’s heroines are a fascinating lot, their colorless faces and small, metal-covered heads indeed projecting icy countenance. She conceived the collection narrowly, building it PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY WWDSTYLE WEDNESDAY, MARCH 9, 2011 5

collections Look closely — these clothes aren’t always what they seem. What appeared to be two jackets was one, a bodice was actually made up of broken PARIS 2011 bits of china, while simple tops, upon closer inspection, fall were intricately decorated with lace and beading. etailsAlexander Valentino Valentino around an appropriately limited McQueen palette of white, black and lilac and a very McQueen silhouette, one molded and aggressive, its structure intensifi ed by multiple graphic zippers and, sometimes, a harness. That stark impression was tempered, however, by an artisanal component evident in gorgeous hand-loomed silk and wool tweeds worked with tufts of mink and fox. Among the other stunning fabrics: checked and studded velvets and organza bulleted into crisp honeycombs on the abundant skirts of two dresses, yet frayed to exquisite imperfection on another. This was accomplished by a table full of young workers who, on the day before the show, literally brushed the fabric threadbare with fl oor brushes, toothbrushes, “any kind of brush we can fi nd,” one said. Even more remarkable, two dresses had bodices crafted entirely from mosaics of broken bone china plates. As for the evening gowns, the word breathtaking understates the reality. Their lavish white- on-white mastery made one hope that Burton is fi bbing out of necessity, and that she has, in fact, gotten the nod for a particular April wedding.

Valentino: When Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli stepped into Valentino’s shoes, the question was how they would Alexander establish their own identity while McQueen such a legendary fi gure loomed. They’ve done so quite successfully in a few short seasons. The house Valentino of Valentino now has a new look that’s been achieved to a large extent through repetition. Dusky colors — variations on nudes and blushes, one silhouette in particular, and a long-sleeve, fi tted dress with a fl ared skirt, the hemline rising or falling depending on the season — have become the house template, and were so again in this collection. It was anchored in pretty, lady looks that have become increasingly wearable with a youthful energy that doesn’t exclude an older audience. The news for fall was a cleaner, sportier day look with an intarsia motif that took the simple, Sixties cut of double cashmere dresses, jackets and swingy skirts in a more casual direction. An otherwise plain dress was done with ribbed sleeves and a knit panel on the bodice. Chiuri and Piccioli FOR FULL introduced deeper colors, like COVERAGE OF PARIS navy and oxblood on rich fur coats FASHION WEEK, SEE and trim leather trenches. Then came lighter fare in sheer silk tops, fi lmy pleated skirts and long, slim WWD.com/ gowns that fl aunted the atelier’s FASHION-SHOWS-REVIEWS. prized couture effects — lace, chiaroscuro and fl ower appliqués. There’s no question it was beautiful, and also a bit safe. But there’s a case to be made for consistency. 6 WWDSTYLE WEDNESDAY, MARCH 9, 2011

Elisa Sednaoui and Michael fashion Kors

Q&A Michael Kors HE’S THE MOST IRREPRESSIBLE MAN in the business. Kors, too, is opinionated, in a manner that swings invari- After 30 years, that in itself is an accomplishment. But then, ably toward the sunny side of a proposal, so much so that, in Michael Kors loves fashion and style as much now as years this highly competitive, difficult business, he inspires genu- ago when, as a star-struck Fashion Institute of Technology ine, near-universal affection. But then, how can you not have student, the sight of Calvin Klein at Studio 54 made him “long a soft spot for a guy, who, on a walk-through of his new, exqui- for my own banquette there” (a goal he never achieved). Or sitely appointed 7,000-square-foot store on Rue Saint-Honoré even earlier, when desire for a Cartier tank watch led his in Paris, boasts that he also has a shop on Staten Island? 16-year-old self to hunker down for serious savings (mission WWD chatted with Kors on the eve of his divine 30th anni- eventually accomplished). Today, what gets Kors’ heart racing versary dinner at the official residence of Charles Rivkin, U.S. is the sight of women wearing his clothes. “I love the models, Ambassador to France, where cocktails were taken in grand, but I really love seeing the clothes on the norms,” as he calls gilded rooms under the watchful gaze of a giant, young George his dedicated clientele, when not referring to them as “opin- Washington, and where the shrimp cocktail was served with ionated broads.” sauce imported from Manhattan. — BRIDGET FOLEY

WWD: The store is beautiful. So chic, you shouldn’t have to put the name up. WWD: What year? but friendly. You should get the vibe of [the designer], M.K.: Probably ’84. At the time, you Michael Kors: Why do people think that which doesn’t mean it has to be the same would say to a customer, “You could chic means you have no sense of humor? show every time. Same thing with a store: wear this during the day or at night.”

I think it’s the oddest thing. And I think You should walk in and get the flavor and And they would say, “You should wear it’s the same thing in a space. Either attitude of the designer. No matter how something metallic during the day?” you walk into most retail stores and it’s big we are, to me, it’s still personal.… Now, I joke that we have women who so quirky that you can’t see the product. To cut through the noise, you have to be work for me who wear cocktail dresses Or you go the other way around and it’s honest. When we decided to have this to the office. I have 70-year-old clients like a Zen temple, and it has no sense of dinner in Paris, I said, “I was kind of the who wear bare clothes. And the democ-

humor and it also has no sense of com- American in Paris while I was here.” I ratization is so different. It used to be, fort. Here, people hang out. At the end was eating a cheeseburger at Joe Allen if you had great taste, you were rich. of the day, if I think the best clothes are but totally enraptured in Paris. And what Or you were a student. Now we have the frame for the woman, the best store could be more personal and more along customers in their early 20s starting is the frame for the clothes. the lines of that combination than to have out in the workforce, and they’ve got a dinner at the ambassador’s residence? great eye and a great taste, and we make WWD: It’s been quite·· awhile since you left product for them that is sophisticated Celine. Do you miss working in Paris? WWD: All about authenticity. and attainable. The rules have just di- M.K.: I don’t miss doing two shows. Do I M.K.: If you’re authentic, people do trust minished. The age thing has changed miss spending more time here? I love you. You have to be authentic, but at the certainly. I think the word “appropri- spending time here. Paris truly is the same time surprise them, throw them a ate” has flown out the window. It’s very crossroads of fashion. Fashion is still curveball. And you know, the customers personal what appropriate means. the national sport of France. In New throw us a curveball, too. My customer’s York, when the shows are going on, not someone who usually loves long, WWD: A lot of changes. you’re never going to hear a cabdriver but this spring, she bought it. “She will M.K.: All of that has changed tremen- say, “Oh, Michael Kors’ show just let never, ever” — yes she will. So you al- dously. Also, when we see something out. They’re all going to Proenza.” In ways have to, within your framework of that’s successful, it’s as successful in Paris, everyone knows everything. You what’s authentic, still try new things. New Orleans as it is in Paris, as it is in New York, as it is in Toronto, as it is in Asia. It doesn’t matter. She gets her information. I joke that it’s like If you’re authentic, people do the Internet has turned into the fash- ion TomTom. She’s sending smoke sig- trust you. You have to be authentic, nals out: pleated skirt; Michael Kors; long; pull-on; got to have it. And some- but at the same time surprise them, how every woman knows. What hasn’t

changed, well, I think women are more STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY paranoid than ever about their bod- throw them a curveball. ies, aging. It’s gotten more extreme. So all of that.” Or go the other way around. what hasn’t changed, it doesn’t matter For example, you could look at Russia can get into a dissertation with a waiter, WWD: You’ve seen a lot in 30 years. how divine something is, if she puts it and say, “Fifteen years ago, the Russian who will say, “The Rykiel anniversary What are the biggest changes and on and she looks in the mirror, particu- consumer only wanted it glamorous and was fabulous.” It’s just part of life here. what’s the same? larly a three-way mirror, and she thinks over the top.” Now, we sell a lot of laid- So, of course, for a designer, to be in a M.K.: Number one, when I started, truly it makes her look bigger or shorter or back and sporty clothes. place where people love fashion that what we thought was global was selling older, that has not changed at all. much and they’re not shocked by it or one department store in London and WWD: Your first design experience was, depressed by it, that I miss. But doing maybe having a Japanese licensee. And WWD: How has the opening up of what famously, for Lothar’s, when you were two shows every season, I do not miss. what we thought was variation was de- we used to call the emerging markets at FIT. What were your career expecta- signing clothes for a specific American impacted your perspective? tions at the time? WWD: You’re celebrating the 30th anni- city. Like how women ··in Chicago love M.K.: For anyone in the fashion business, M.K.: Listen, I’m competitive, I’m defi- versary of Michael Kors with a dinner at gray. We need lots of color for Dallas! nothing’s more thrilling than people who nitely tenacious, so I don’t get into any Ambassador Rivkin’s residence, and in There were all these specifics, even are thrilled by fashion. For instance, I game unless I think I can win the game. New York, you chose a party at The Carlyle. within America, of how she dressed was a fashion-crazed teenager, and a lot And when I decide on something, I’m in You’re so good at being you. You didn’t want and what was appropriate. And also, of times you think that’s only the prov- it for the long haul. So I certainly thought to go to the Top of The Standard. what was appropriate for an age group. ince of youth. But what it is, is the prov- about a long career in fashion. Did I ever M.K.: I think the greatest thing about “That’s for clients in their 20s,” and “No ince of newness. You’re excited by some- think that I would be sitting in Paris being around for more than a nanosec- one will go sleeveless if they’re over 35.” thing new, and in the emerging market, opening a store, a Michael Kors store, in ond is really knowing yourself, knowing Even fabrics, the rules were so strict. you have the curiosity and the excite- Paris? Quite frankly, back when I started what makes you tick as a person, as a Everyone was like, “You can’t have wool ment level that you might not have in an — I’m trying to think — what designer designer. I always joke, when I started for spring. No way. Sandals? In the fall? established market. And quite honestly, had their own stores back then? having fashion shows in the Eighties, we Are you nuts?” And day for night, night in today’s world, the taste level and the all put our name up on the back wall. for day? Nonexistent. My first Women’s sophistication speed up really quickly WWD: Saint Laurent, certainly. Wear Daily show cover was “Day for so that suddenly you can say, “Wait a M.K.: Saint Laurent and Courrèges, WWD: That was the branding. Night,” and it was a gray flannel trouser second. Ten years ago, she was wearing yes. They were the only two freestand- M.K.: That was the branding, and now, with a gold lamé bathrobe, and a black drab clothes that had no sex appeal, no ing designer stores, and certainly as an very few people do it. And, quite honestly, cashmere robe thrown over it. glamour, and suddenly she understands American designer, you were like, “Well, WWDSTYLE WEDNESDAY, MARCH 9, 2011 7

maybe I’ll have a corner in a department WWD: Talk about the role of celebrity, to the gym too much or you travel too store, and that will be great.” Also, I never both the designer as celebrity and how much, you’ve got to have time to escape. thought, quite frankly, I’d be considered the race to get clothes on celebrities, the establishment because I’m so casual. how it’s changed fashion and if you WWD: Other than writing for television, My idea of a design meeting is to throw a think it’s all for the good. it’s the only commercial discipline that box of pizza on the floor and tell everyone M.K.: I grew up thinking that designers requires creativity on demand on a regi-

to sit down, and let’s look at some swatch- were celebrities because for me, they mented schedule. es on the floor. You know, when somebody were. I went to the Perry Ellis trunk show M.K.: I always tell everyone the crazy calls me Mr. Kors, I look over my shoul- at Bloomingdale’s when I was 17. I re- conversation I’ve had forever with ac- der and say, “My father’s not here.” And member seeing Calvin at Studio 54, and tors, if they do two films in a row, and I think in today’s world, you’re iconic. I Halston. That’s what I wanted: my own they’ve lived these characters and see it in Hollywood, too, it’s everywhere. banquette at Studio 54, just like Calvin. they’re on the set away from their

When I think iconic, Kirk Douglas, that’s friends and family, but then they take a iconic. So when I actually read something WWD: Your heart stopped. year off. What are designers supposed that says, “iconic American designer…” M.K.: Last night we had dinner at Caviar to say? “I’m tired. I’m not doing fall. Kaspia and I remembered that not that Wear last year’s clothes, and maybe get WWD: But you are now. long ago I saw Saint Laurent walking in some new nail polish.” It’s endless. M.K.: I still think I’m a kid. I’m still in flip- with his dog to eat lunch, and I couldn’t flops. And still, what I think is the most breathe. I was ·· like, “Oh, my God, Saint WWD: You have had ups and downs over exciting thing when you keep going, I love Laurent’s eating lunch!” But I think the years, and you have all outward when we consistently find not only new fashion celebrity used to be only for signs of not getting despondent. places to do business, but new women fashionistas. I was a fashionista. Now, M.K.: When we were in Chapter 11 in the and new ages and new types, because I think that designers have entered the early Nineties, I had been at it for over a they surprise me, and I like the surprise. realm of pop culture, not just because decade, which I thought was a really long of television like “Project Runway”; I time. Now I’m like, “I was a neophyte.” WWD: Starting out, did you have any idea think the Internet has certainly done But at the time, I kept thinking if some- how hard this business would be? that. I think that because fashion’s thing really does happen, will I cease M.K.: What’s funny, what I think is shock- more democratic, people actually feel being me? Oh, my God, I’ve worked so ing now, I learn a lot of things from doing that there’s something in it for them so hard, and I’ve killed myself, and if this “Project Runway,” because now I actually maybe they should be curious. doesn’t work out and we can’t manage to sit and watch fashion shows. I remember my first few shows, you know they were small shows, I had no money, it wasn’t like today, where you can have your first If you think, I’ve arrived, and I’m on show and you’re heralded overnight. I re- member thinking I would be. I remember thinking there would be reams of pages the throne, guess what? Those people [of press coverage] and all of this, and people cheering. I thought it would be like carrying the throne are going to drop it. “Mahogany,” and I was Diana Ross, and they’d be throwing flowers. Now I look back and I watch those first shows, and I’m actually very grateful for all that time WWD: This has been an unusual and sad get ourselves out of this situation, will I to learn without such a glare on me. I’m week in Paris. Do you think that there’s have any identity as a person? Is all my grateful. Thank god, quite frankly. I would more psychological stress on designers identity tied up in being Michael Kors?” not want to be 21 today, starting. No way. today than ever before? I finally realized that if I had to go M.K.: No question. When we first started back to square one, that if I was just hon- WWD: Do you have any advice? coming to Paris to do Celine, even be- est and authentic, it would work. It’s what M.K.: Be ready to have a show. There’s fore that, when I wasn’t doing Celine, I works. You have to know yourself. Also, more to it than just putting on a great was like, “I’m exhausted, I’m so busy.” you know what? If you think you’ve made show. Can you, in fact, produce the And then I came to Paris, we didn’t it, you’re done for. The question I hate the clothes? Do they fit? Can you ship them on even have pre-fall then, but we always most is, “When did you know·· you’d made time? Are they appropriate for the price? had resort so we were suddenly at it?” If you think, I’ve arrived, and I’m on And also, do you answer a question that’s six [collections] a year. And I thought, the throne, guess what? Those people car- not being answered? Because if you’re not “Oh, my God, this is insane.” I stopped rying the throne are going to drop it. answering a question that’s not being an- doing Paris, and you can say to your- swered, you’ll be a blip on the screen. self, “Oh, a breeze.” Well, suddenly we WWD: Done for? Not you. Your client have pre-fall, and then I started doing range just keeps expanding. WWD: What question did you answer, do Michael, where we ship every month. M.K.: This is the greatest thing. Mary you try to continue to answer? Then, three shoe collections, two hand- J. [Blige] singing at the dinner. It’s the M.K.: From the very beginning, I was con- bag collections, men’s. I mean, I forget trifecta, and it’s very Michael Kors be- vinced that you could be sexy and sporty what season I’m in sometimes.…I think cause it’s such a weird, eclectic mix. at the same time. [Then] everything that every designer in today’s world, I don’t [In celebration of the 30th anniversary,] was sporty was too sporty, too casual, care whether you’re a designer who Bette Midler sang to me backstage after and everything that was sexy was such a makes clothes that are phantasmagori- my show, Judy Collins sang to me that bombshell. I have always been intrigued cal or very pragmatic, you have to figure night, Mary J. sings to me in Paris. You by a sexy tomboy. That’s my ethos. No out something that can ground you and say, “Wait a minute, what do these three matter what, that’s going to be my ethos. bring you back. Whatever it is, if you go women have in common?” Survivors. Kors’ 30th Celebration, Paris Style PARIS — “I’m definitely not singing after Mary,” Kors gown, twirling in front of a mirror for Michael Kors said as he took the mic from Mary J. Blige photographers. “I am in love with this dress,” she at the climax of his 30th anniversary bash at the gushed. “I feel like I just got off a beach in the late American ambassador’s residence here Monday night. Sixties.” The model-turned-actress said she’s signed “It rips my heart out, you’re spectacular,” he enthused. up to act in an Italian movie opposite Vincent Gallo. “I Blige’s blistering performance in a sequined play a psycho psychic, and a bit of a prostitute — a catsuit — preceded by her “officially” disclosing juicy character,” she said. “It’s supposed to be in that she will portray jazz legend Nina Simone in black-and-white. But with movies, you never know.” a biopic — capped off a glamorous dinner in a Amanda Heard, poured into a camel Kors number, clear tent plunked in the middle of the residence’s said she can’t wait to don a period look for the picturesque garden. new NBC drama series “The Playboy Club,” set “Welcome back to Paris. It’s a city that’s in Chicago in the Sixties. “It’s the best epoch for never forgotten you,” Ambassador Charles Rivkin music and revolution and art, women’s liberation,” told revelers, also explaining the local habit of said Heard, currently appearing opposite Nicolas “window licking,” the literal translation of the Cage in “Drive Angry” as a “small-town diner French term for window-shopping. waitress with a bad attitude and a heart of gold.” Before feasting on shrimp cocktail, steak and Louis Vuitton honcho Yves Carcelle, who chocolate cake, models, actresses and editors negotiated the deal that saw LVMH Moët Hennessy roamed the gilded reception rooms. “It’s very retro Louis Vuitton invest in Kors’ business when the — Liza Minnelli in the Eighties,” Zoe Saldana said of New Yorker was designing Celine, was buzzing her outfit: a slinky satin blouse, sparkly plus fours about the day’s bombshell news: that LVMH was Zoe Saldana and Mary J. Blige Amanda and dangling earrings. taking a majority stake in Bulgari. “And now we Heard

Elisa Sednaoui was taken with her purple jersey have to speak Italian a little bit more,” he laughed. STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTOS BY 008 WWDSTYLE XXXXXXXXX,WEDNESDAY, XXXXXXXXMARCH 9, 2011 XX, 2011 denim Jagger and Hudson Collaborate

By SHARON EDELSON exclusive stretch-denim fabrics. Jagger will be present at the March 17 launch at DESIGNING JEANS WASN’T a stretch Neiman Marcus in Beverly Hills. for Georgia May Jagger. With rock royalty lineage —– her The gap-toothed British model, now in father is Mick Jagger and her mother her third Hudson Jeans advertising cam- is Jerry Hall — Jagger said she was Jagger wearing a lace-up style in an image paign, collaborated with the denim brand inspired by the Wrangler jeans worn from the Hudson spring ad campaign. on a capsule collection featuring new by her mom in the Seventies and rock bands such as Guns N’ Roses. There are five styles in black, white, gray and came about organically. We weren’t happy with jeans because they al- blue washes. All have skinny leg open- even thinking about it. It just happened lowed us to create a cohesive vision ings and a midrise to accommodate a because Georgia is a creative person and to keep it very focused. I wanted range of body types. and very into fashion and design. One to create a line that would consist of “I’m obsessed with [jeans],” Jagger conversation led to another and here staple wardrobe pieces. We could have said. “I knew exactly what I wanted we are.” gone in a thousand different direc- from the beginning. All the styles are a Jagger wanted to be part of the de- tions, but with the focus on jeans, we slightly higher rise and sit on my hips, sign process and submitted sketches were able to be very creative.” which makes them more wearable and and inspiration boards. “I’m with Georgia in Paris for the elongates the leg. The special fabrics “I loved the entire creative process, launch of the collection at Montaigne Georgia May Jagger make the jeans more comfortable.” starting with brainstorming and first Market,” Taverniti said. “Every chance modeling the skinny When Hudson executives talk about sketches to seeing the denim styles we get, we talk about product. ‘What jean from her Hudson Jagger, the conversation inevitably come to life at the end,” she said. “I about this?’ ‘How about that?’ Georgia Jeans capsule leads to her hip pedigree. worked with Ben on materials, fit, is so invested in the collaboration and collection. “She encapsulates the Hudson wash, rise and inseam length and pock- the energy is amazing. Success isn’t consumer with her London edge and et and trim details. Then I visited the a question. If the amount of interest laid-back Los Angeles ease,” said Ben factories, from sewing facilities to wash we’re getting is any indication, watch Taverniti, Hudson’s head designer and houses, so that I could understand how out for part two.” creative director. “She is effortlessly the jeans would be made. We’re getting Jagger said she has always been in- stylish and cool. Her capsule collection ready to ship the jeans for their mid- terested in creative pursuits. embodies the flair and sexy insouci- March launch. To see it all come to- “I just set up a darkroom,” she said. ance of rock ’n’ roll chic. gether is an unbelievable feeling.” “I absolutely love photography. I al- “This is Hudson’s first collabora- Jagger said, “[The experience] ways have my camera on me as I travel. tion,” Taverniti added. “Georgia is the helped me appreciate fashion in so But I really love all types of art. I’ve ‘face’ of our brand and our muse. The many ways. I look forward to grow- been knitting for a while, making one- conversation to create this capsule ing the collaboration. Right now I’m off scarves for friends and family.”

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