Department fashion

OUT FOR

Haider Ackerman Opposite page left: Dark grey wool pencil high-waist skirt, $585, barneys. OXBLOOD: com; carved black leather belt, $1,135, Dark Hues Cue Royal Glamour net-a-porter.com, coat and sweater, by special order. Opposite page center: Origami- sleeve cropped wool jacket, $1,315; by Michele meyer wool knit tube skirt, black, $555; This fall, fashion flirts with the dark side.A fter the black. Instead, dried blood colors saturated the black virgin-wool turtle neck sweater, $680; aubergine balloon shirt of forced cheer of summer’s clashing brights, pastels runways of Diane von Furstenberg, Alexander 61-percent wool, 39-percent silk, and prints, a cool cloud hangs over collections. Wang, DKNY, Tommy Hilfiger, Helmut Lang, $1,735; and taupe large leather corset Yet moody merlot, plum, raisin, eggplant, grape, Sophie Théallet and many others. belt, $1,315. graphite, bottle green, espresso and black “are “Oxblood is sophisticated: We call it ‘Her Royal Opposite page right: carved black anything but depressing,” says Leatrice Eiseman, Highness’ because it’s aspirational,” says Leslie leather belt, $1,135, and silk-lined Pantone Color Institute’s executive director and Harrington, Ph.D., executive director of the Color lambskin gloves, $1,135, both net-a- forecaster. “They’re rich yet robust, elegant yet Association. “Like the rest of this timeless and Diane von Furstenberg porter.com; peplum leather jacket, This page: Cotton jersey Bentley matching slacks, by special order, mysterious. By darkening hues, they become flattering palette, it speaks to our fascination with dress, $445; suede Lucette shoes, select Saks Fifth Avenue stores powerful.” recent British events—the royal wedding, queen’s $595. dvf.com. haiderackermann.be. Unlike other autumns, this season’s star isn’t Diamond Jubilee and Olympics.” w

Fall 2012 57 J. Mendel Plum techno-jersey V-neck dress with pleated bodice and full skirt, $1,990. jmendel.com.

7 For All Mankind Enhancing the opulence are lush fabrics: High-gloss snake-print leggings, $259 cashmere, leather, velvet, suede and silk bloomingdales.com. charmeuse. “You can’t go wrong investing in those pieces,” she says. What makes classics modern is the way they’re paired. Instead of slamming black against jewel-toned blocks (as in the ‘80s), these ensembles progress monochromati- Jason Wu Calf/suede leather boot cally, from oxblood to eggplant, olive to with tassel, $1,195. forest green or smoke to soot. net-a-porter.com. Sound drab? They’re anything but, by juxtaposing sharp shapes and modern materials. Though both are grape, Haider Acker- mann’s origami-folded nubby wool peplum jacket and shawl-necked charmeuse blouse Derek Lam excite. So do Derek Lam’s inky cable-knit Wine lambskin riding pant, sweater and ankle-grazing chiffon skirt. Derek Lam $1,995; white leather shell Quilting, leather trim and asymmetric minis Wine lambskin cap-sleeve with black jersey knit back, dress, $2,850. $1,990. dereklam.com make Proenza Schouler’s all-black suits dereklam.com So-ho cool. w

58 Fall 2012 Fall 2012 59 RICHgirls RULE The Brocade Brigade Musters a Midas Touch

by Michele meyer After years of unadorned minimalism, designers this autumn are going for baroque. As Dries van Noten and others tap into tapestry, Salvatore Ferragamo garnishes with curls and Miu Miu plasters wallpaper prints from head-to-toe, the Renaissance appears to have reawakened. “Designers have upped the ante after all Haider Peter Som the print we saw last summer,” says Penny Ackerman Above: Wine felted wool Concord grape jacket, $1,771, Elizabeth Lovell, Rose Byrne’s fashion stylist. jacket, $2,945; Charles, 212.243.3201. Credit Stella McCartney for first rocking black leather Stretch lambskin skirt, rococo last spring, with scroll work on trousers, $2,495, $2,275, special order only. neoprene and net sheaths adding texture black corset petersom.com. belt, $1,135; silk- and depth to a season otherwise marked by neons and madly clashing prints. lined lambskin Derek Lam gloves, $1,135. Above right: Black corded While yesteryear’s lamé seems tired and net-a-porter.com. wool crewneck cable tacky, velvet, brocade and bullion braiding Charmeuse scarf. sweater, $1,250; black silk feel rich and romantic—a regal rebellion haiderackermann.be. georgette evening skirt, against the recession’s restraint, Lovell $2,650. dereklam.com says. Alexandra Knight Rendered in deep and elegant emeralds, Elsewhere, tones harmonize with smoke and charcoal-tinged Kirby clutch in cherry glaze rubies, sapphires and onyx gilded with satin, leather and neoprene sleeveless sheaths at Prabal Gurung, and alligator with black glaze gold, the new opulence recalls the glory– alligator strip, $3,600. and excesses of Russian imperialism, paprika cashmere wrap coats and viscose capris at Banana Republic. alexandraknightonline.com. The contrast of maroon leather round clutches and pointed stilettos France’s Louis XIV and the finest work of Prabal Gurung adds sizzle to shirred berry-brown jersey dresses at Diane von Tulle gown late great Italian Gianni Versace (in the Furstenberg. embroidered with early ‘90s) and Brit bad boy Alexander If clothes beg to be pawed you’re on the right track, says Simon filigree cutwork, McQueen’s final collection (in 2010). Kneen, Banana Republic’s executive vice president of design. jet beads and onyx “Historically, brocade was reserved for crystals, $13,995. the wealthiest and most powerful people, “This season is about quiet glamour and simple, smart dressing. Ikram, Chicago. Reference novelist Virginia Woolf, not Great Gatsby flappers, and prabalgurung.com so it signifies total luxury and refinement,” skip the sequins! While the look isn’t plain, it’s never flashy.” u Lovell says. w

60 Fall 2012 Fall 2012 61 Jason Wu Asian-inspired gold-brocade hobo handbag with silk cord tassel, $1,770, select Neiman Marcus stores. jasonwustudio.com

Ferragamo Left: Gray wool military coat, $3,150; gold-embroidered green wool turtleneck, $2,150, brown leather pants, $ 2,150, Salvatore Ferragamo boutiques. ferragamo.com

Valentino Far left: Round-neck sleeveless tulle illusion dress with multi-colored floral embroidery, $25,000. Neiman Marcus. valentino.com

Ferragamo But that doesn’t mean you should flaunt it. Above: Black embroidered velvet ‘‘You don’t want to pile it on like they did in Dynasty, or it becomes Brian Atwood boots, $1,500, Salvatore Ferragamo Embroidered gray boutiques. ferragamo.com a costume,” warns Cher Coulter, celebrity stylist for Nicole Richie. So suede Moya shoes, skip jewelry, tone down makeup and keep hair sleek and pulled back. also available in “Wear Valentino’s delicate embroidered lace dresses with simple wine, $1,076, Gito Dries Van Noten black tights and shoes to convey the mood without overpowering.” in New Jersey, Above Center: Black tapestry brianatwood.com. Or keep the look “less in-your-face” by adding barely braided Brian belted 51-percent wool, 49-percent Atwood peep-toe shoes or black-on-black embroidered Ferragamo silk Regine coat, $2,670. Nordstrom. com, Barneys.com. boots to otherwise unadorned outfits, Lovell advises. The unexpected modernizes granny’s upholstery. Balmain places Gucci old-fashioned cross-stitching on leather sweatshirts, while Christopher Above right: Sapphire cotton velvet Kane weaves his needlework clutches with wire, not yarn, then frames dress brocade embroidered in them in thick black rectangles. black, $2,995. gucci.com. Should you find wallpaper prints charming, scale back to smaller patterns on shrunken, narrow jackets over capris–or mix with solids as does Sophie Théallet, Coulter says. “Otherwise, it looks like you’ve borrowed from the ‘80s–and it’s gone wrong.” Beyond that, rich girl, if it’s baroque, don’t fix it. u

62 Fall 2012 Fall 2012 63 Unlike the more playful, childish and dominatrix-inspired high and side versions, the latest look works day or night—and for all ages, hair textures and face shapes, Syfu says. “The dropped pony really can change your look.” To be in lock step with catwalks, the new pony must ride low (at the nape), and be chopstick-straight, with no volume or stray strands. Straight from Side or center parts are optional, as the runway, are brooches or barrettes, which tell a dressier tale, as at Rochas. it’s high time for the You can be a “lock star” with minimal effort. low ponytail. Spread a dollop of volumizing mousse in baby-fine hair or argan oil and flattening serum in unruly thick hair, advises Michael Dueñas, founder of New York’s Hair Room Service, who has styled Lady Gaga’s hair. Then blow dry, from the forehead to the nape, using a flat brush. Dampen hair for the sleekest pony and gloss it with silicone spray or a quarter’s worth of a shine cream, directed to the nape with a fine- tooth comb, Syfu says. Look to the ceiling and pull hair back as tightly by Michele meyer as possible. Wrap the base of the The polished ponytail is fall’s “mane” ponytail with an elastic tie, hooked event. Indeed, this peek of sleek has at each end. marched down runways from Cha- Bangs can be slicked back with a nel to Calvin Klein and Jil Sander to nickel’s worth of gel that has been Jonathan Saunders. So why, after emulsified between your palms and years, did designers banish Bohe- rubbed on the surface. But don’t let mian bed head? the pony itself get plastered. “Hair “A pulled-back ponytail comple- shouldn’t be so sculpted it looks ments­, rather than competes with, hard,” notes Syfu. this season’s strong prints, embel- For an even cleaner look, hide lishments and metallics,” says Jean- bands with strands. Take an inch- ie Syfu, a stylist whose tails lay low wide swatch from below the pony, at Charlotte Ronson. “It also works wrap around the base and clip with the current minimalism. It’s beneath the tail with a bobby pin. clean and refined, understated and Once you’ve ponied up, you can sophisticated.” escape bad-hair days all winter. u

64 Fall 2012 Fall 2012 65 Ermenegildo Hugo Boss Zegna Wool single- Three-piece slim- breasted suit, fit cashmere suit, $1,695; cotton $4,295; jacket, DKNY shirt, $285; silk $2,395; slacks, Black wool suit, tie, $125; leather $700; slim-fit $595; grey silk shoes, $595, cotton denim dress striped tie, $59.50; available at BOSS shirt, $395; knitted dress shirt, $65, stores in Dallas cashmere tie, $295; black wool coat, and Houston. brown leather belt, price upon request. Bespoken hugoboss.com. $325. zegna.com. dkny.com. Double-breasted black wool blazer, $865, by Michele meyer Five Story NYC; Menswear has spiffed up for fall and beyond. from pocket squares and tie pins to three-piece black check short point shirt, $270, “The British influence is strong right now,” says suits, double-breasted jackets, morning coats and parkandbond. Mark-Evan Blackman, an assistant menswear pleated and cuffed trousers. com; skinny design professor at New York’s Fashion Institute Epaulets, brass buttons and olive twills add a burgundy-dot tie, Gentleman Dressing of Technology. “The opulence of a handmade suit dash of West Point to London West End polish, $165, Odin NYC; or wearing a tux to dinner is appealing. Everyone, notes Blackman. Otherwise, designers cling to black wool formal Polished Head-to-Toe Menswear. trousers, $360. from rockers to hedge fund managers, orders classic tweeds, flannels and muted plaids in grays, made-to-measure. Even the average guy is looking navies, blacks and camels. at fit and finishing touches.” These details range Gaze in the dressed-up direction of Baz

66 Fall 2012 Fall 2012 67 Todd Synder Above left: Black wool tuxedo jacket, $1,425; olive wool pointed tie, $125; 80% cotton, 20% wool sport shirt in khaki, $215; 85% cotton, 15% hemp infantry pants in olive, $325. Above right: 50% wool, 50% camel hair top coat, $1,995; white cotton dress shirt, $295; charcoal wool lapel vest, $295; wool pointed tie, $125. toddsnyder.com.

Luhrmann’s upcoming remake of The Great Gatsby. Mix it up, rather than draping yourself head-to-toe in velvet or tartan. Ermenegildo Zegna “The look shouldn’t be matchy-matchy: As long Silk/cotton trench, $3,995; fair-isle as the colors work together, a paisley pocket turtleneck sweater in square, or a plaid tie with a denim shirt are cashmere, $1,595; wool handsome and distinctive,” says Blackman. “But trousers, $495; leather your accents shouldn’t have more personality fringed loafers, $725; than you. So if you’re low-key, don’t mix four or leather gloves, $380. zegna.com more patterns.” Instead, the sartorially smooth give modern Canali John Varvatos Ferragamo twists to the traditional. Many designers, including Wool-angora double-breasted long Black convertible notch lapel Blue wool double-breasted suit, Todd Snyder and Michael Bastian, add pressed Ermenegildo Zegna garnishes three-piece suits coat with black belt, price upon Hampton jacket in 93% wool, 5% $2,790; dark purple cotton slim-fit cargo pants or dark jeans—even hiking boots— with open-necked shirts over turtlenecks. A request; wool flat-front slim-fit cashmere and 2% Elastane with button-down shirt, $310; dark purple below blazers or vests. John Varvatos’ urbane shawl-neck burgundy cable-knit vest softens Paul trousers with silk belt and side band, leather-trimmed bessom pocket, wool knit sweater, $650; metallic urban warrior lets his elongated vest hang beyond & Joe’s otherwise crisp fedora and flannel slacks. $560; cotton shirt, $325; double- $1,595; black button-front waist coat scratch silk bowtie, $90; bordeaux breasted wool-silk waistcoat with with contrasting collar and lapel natural hand-finished lace-up his jacket, while Canali pairs cashmere coats, not “The well-dressed man doesn’t want to walk shawl collar and fancy pockets, price seam, $598; black wool wing-collar shoes, $1,600 available at Salvatore blazers, with old-fashioned cropped double- through a door and be noticed,” Blackman says. upon request; floral printed silk tie, shirt with shaped front and French Ferragamo boutiques. ferragamo.com breasted vests. “He wants people to realize a half-hour later, ‘Wow, $150; velvet ankle boot with lateral cuff, $398; black slim-fit straight-leg And rather than flirt with foppishness, that’s a great suit.’” u zip, $595. canali.com. dress slacks, $550; black Parisian Beetle boot in laser-scored calf, $798. johnvarvatos.com. 68 Fall 2012 Fall 2012 69