NEW LONDON WRITING SMYTHSON COLLECTIONS UPDATES FASHION WEEK KICKS OFF ITS BOND ACROSS THE POND WITH STREET MATTHEW WILLIAMSON, FLAGSHIP. MARIOS SCHWAB, ISSA PAGE 3 WWDLONDON AND MORE.

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2012 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 Richter Scale For their fantastic Proenza Schouler show, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were inspired by technology and Gerhard Richter. Their graphic collages featured Internet-sourced images on T-shirts, skirts and dresses for a look that was high-resolution, high-impact. For spring collections from London, see pages 4 and 5.

PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER Buyers See Green in New York TALE OF TWO REALITIES

on such distinctive looks. By SHARON EDELSON “It’s giving the customer the chance Retail Shares Hit Highs to be an individual,” said Barbara Atkin, NEW YORK — Individual, handmade and vice president of fashion direction at Holt quirky don’t sound like recipes for big sales, Renfrew. “The real phenomenon is that but retailers believe that’s exactly what will we’re [stores] all buying the same brands, Despite Economy’s Woes inspire their customers come spring if the which are getting bigger and bigger. Yet in New York runways are any indication. a world of homogenized brands and key ment is getting very aggressive.” Designers made statements with unusual items, everyone looks different. We’re see- By EVAN CLARK Many chains expect the second pairings of materials — leather and crochet ing many trends coexisting.” half will mirror blah first-half results at Proenza Schouler, leather laser-cut to Relaxed chic, or casual couture, is a IF THE STOCK MARKET were the real — putting a huge amount of pressure look like lace at Jason Wu and reembroi- trend with big commercial implications, world, retailers would be pretty happy. on them for holiday. ShopperTrak last dered lace at Vera Wang. Elsewhere, there though. “It’s about comfort,” said Atkin. The S&P Retail Index hit a new all- week projected U.S. sales growth for were dresses that combined silk, chiffon “Silhouettes have a more pared-down feel- time high Friday and ended the day up the November-to-December period and satin or mixed prints and patterns. ing. Nobody’s teetering on high heels and 0.6 percent to 669.26, marking a 27.9 would slow to 3.3 percent from 3.7 per- Retailers insisted consumers will splurge SEE PAGE 6 percent rise for the year for the broad cent a year earlier. A large chunk of measure of the U.S. industry. that growth, no doubt, will be online, But nobody’s ready to celebrate. rather than in retailers’ brick-and- While retail stocks have rallied this mortar stores. year, and outperformed the market, “You’re seeing the disconnect the economy has continued to suffer. between the economy and the fi- Even at companies that seem to be hit- nancial markets,” said Paul Nolte, ting their stride, such as Macy’s Inc., managing director at Dearborn or Wal-Mart Stores Inc., the overall Partners in Chicago. “Financial mar- mood of retail executives seems to be: kets are responding to Bernanke…. “Things are OK — and we hope they The economy is reacting to very don’t get any worse.” high debt levels [for both consum- Bill Simon, president and chief ex- ers and governments]. Investors are ecutive officer of Wal-Mart U.S., put looking for places to put money be- it this way recently, “We’re optimistic cause they’re not getting paid any- about the fourth quarter. We do expect where and are forced into the stocks.” it to be challenging. The retail environ- SEE PAGE 7 2 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2012 WWD.COM Pakistan Plant Owners Turn Up THE BRIEFING BOX IN TODAY’S WWD By MAHLIA S. LONE People search for bodies and survivors on the third floor. LAHORE, Pakistan — As the fire that killed 289 workers at a garment factory in Karachi still smoldered, the company’s own- ers resurfaced after three days of hiding and the Sindh Minister for Industry resigned. The owners of Ali Enterprises — Abdul Aziz Bhaila and his sons, Arshad and Shahid — ap- peared in court haggard and un- shaven in the town of Larkana in Sindh province, having arranged protective bail of about 500,000 Conor Dwyer, MIR rupees, or about $5,500, for eight Henrik Lundqvist and EICHNER days until Sept. 21, when they Amar’e Stoudemire STEVE must reappear in court. Justice AYESHA

at the Calvin Klein BY Hasan Azhar Rizvi also ordered BY postshow dinner. that their passports be taken PHOTO from them and they remain on PHOTO the exit control list that forbids At a press conference in there, they had too little water in them from leaving the country. Larkana, the Bhalias said they the fire tenders and had to go to The S&P Retail Index hit a new high, but chains are still The three are charged with appeared in court in Larkana, the next one in Sakhi Hasan to struggling in an economic morass. PAGE 1 murder, attempted murder and 300 miles from Karachi because replenish their supply. Another criminal negligence. they feared for their lives in that ongoing problem in Karachi is Individual and personal may sound incongruous to Sindh Provincial Minister for city from angry demonstrators. the severe water shortage. Water big sales, but New York Fashion Week buyers applauded Industry and Commerce Rauf On Thursday, Karachi was shut tankers supply much of the citi- singular looks, even if they come at a price. PAGE 1 Siddiqui resigned from his office, down as a sign of mourning. After zens’ need for water. saying that he wants to ensure rescue work was called off on Arshad claimed the company Smythson, Britain’s most famous stationer, today will a transparent investigation. He Friday, the factory premises were had followed the factory laws, mark its 125th anniversary with a cocktail party at its newly had been under pressure from sealed by the police and a heavy there was nothing wrong with refurbished Bond Street store in London. PAGE 3 the government to resign. contingent was deployed outside their factory and the gates were The incident, which occurred to ward off further unrest. not locked. He said they did not Carven creative director Guillaume Henry has joined up at the same time a shoe fac- The owners had all exits leave the factory until midnight, with Petit Bateau to create a capsule collection consisting of tory fire killed 25 people in the locked and there were bars on some six hours after the fire nine styles for adults and children. PAGE 3 Pakistani city of Lahore, has the windows, apparently to deter started, only after a mysterious caused an outcry from interna- high crime in the area, leaving phone call from an “important Hanro of Switzerland is launching its first ready-to-wear tional workers’ rights groups and 600 men and women trapped in- person” asked them to get out. collection, called Hanro Knits, for spring. PAGE 7 organizations involved in factory side. When asked by reporters if The owners have promised to inspections and could make the claims of “extortion” were true, pay financial compensation to Casadei is projecting nearly $50 million in sales for next industry rethink corporate social Arshad declined to comment. In the victims’ families as per fac- year, with hopes that a series of complicated silhouettes will responsibility programs aimed at Karachi, many businesses give tory and labor laws here. Lawyer help get it there. PAGE 8 avoiding such catastrophes. The money to extortionist groups due Sadia Khan said according to factory, which lay in ruins, was to the severe crime and lawless- Shariah Islamic law and the Lady Gaga employed bottle-shaped carriages drawn by horse, said to have been making jeans ness in some parts of the metrop- Pakistan Penal Code, it is entire- a very public boudoir and some Lilliputian accented boots for and other clothing, but no brands olis of 21 million. Instead they ly acceptable to compensate the the launch of her new fragrance, Lady Gaga Fame. PAGE 9 have been identified. Pakistan is blamed the fire department, say- victims’ immediate family with a the fifth-largest supplier of tex- ing that it took them 90 minutes cash settlement, even in the case Oscar de la Renta took out a full-page ad in Friday’s WWD tiles and apparel to the U.S. to arrive. When they finally got of death. to publish an “open letter” that took Cathy Horyn to task for her review of his show last week. PAGE 9

Tod’s chief Diego Della Valle issued a statement criticizing top Fiat Chrysler executives for putting their own interests India Approves Retail Direct Investment ahead of those of their employees. PAGE 11 include: By MAYU SAINI Q States will be able to decide whether to allow ON WWD.COM global retailers in; NEW DELHI — The Indian cabinet Friday ap- Q A minimum $100 million investment will be re- proved 51 percent foreign direct investment in mul- quired, with at least half of the company total in- EYE: Francisco Costa hosted a corral of starlets, models tibrand retail although it stipulated that state gov- vestment in back-end infrastructure, such as ware- and socials — Emma Stone with beau Andrew Garfield, ernments would have a choice in allowing global housing and cold storage facilities, three years Diane Kruger, Dree Hemingway, Erin Heatherton and Karlie retailers to set up shop in their states. within setting up in India; Kloss — at Calvin Klein’s postshow dinner at the new India continues to be an important target mar- Q The markets will be mainly restricted to cities Beatrice Inn. For more photos, see WWD.com/eye. ket for global retailers such as Wal-Mart Stores with a population of more than one million, while Inc., Tesco plc and Carrefour that have been test- state governments will have the final say in giving ing the waters while pressing for the opening up of permission for cities with smaller numbers. CORRECTION the sector. The decision to allow foreign companies Last year the government approved 100 percent to own 51 percent of multibrand retailers was ini- foreign ownership of single-brand retail, but with a The Chrysler 300 designed by John Varvatos will not be featured tially made in December but was quickly vetoed by stipulation of 30 percent local sourcing from India. in the Neiman Marcus Christmas Book. This was incorrect in a several political parties, forcing the government to This has been protested by global companies, and story on page 16, Wednesday. It will be advertised in the holiday defer the issue. recently by Ikea, which revealed plans to invest 600 edition of Neiman Marcus’ The Book catalogue. This time the government has made what it million euros, or $780 million at current exchange, terms a final move, although it has included sev- to open 25 stores in India. The government said TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. eral stipulations aimed at appeasing opponents of Friday that a company could seek a waiver from the WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. the plan. According to economists, some important mandatory 30 percent local sourcing clause if it set COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. ones that global retailers will have to keep in mind up a manufacturing facility in India. VOLUME 204, NO. 58. MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Chanel Fined in World Tricot Case Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. PARIS — Chanel said the Paris Court of Appeal or- missed World Tricot’s claim for wrongful termina- Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or dered it to pay 200,000 euros, or $258,400 at current tion of the business relationship. inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine exchange, to World Tricot in a long-running coun- “This is the first time we have faced this type is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. terfeiting suit. of situation, although we work with close to 400 You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt The ruling Friday overturns a 2009 commer- suppliers. This very specific case is in no way a of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request cial court decision that ordered World Tricot, one reflection of the quality of our relations with our for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at of Chanel’s former knitwear suppliers, to pay the suppliers,” said Bruno Pavlovsky, president of www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that Paris fashion house 200,002 euros for “public dis- Chanel fashion. we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at paragement” for accusations that Chanel copied The case has been seen in France as a symbol P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED one of its crochet designs. of dark times for apparel manufacturers here. ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER Chanel said it would decide “shortly” if it would Subcontractors are considered an endangered spe- UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR appeal the decision to France’s Supreme Court. cies, largely due to brands outsourcing production DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A The fashion house noted the appeals court dis- abroad. — MILES SOCHA SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WwD monday, september 17, 2012 3 WWD.COM

er belts as a new category — and one for the new home collection, which includes picture frames, cashmere throws and Smythson Sharpens Its Game stackable leather-covered trays. The bespoke stationery room is more the key is in the detail. The concept of ble-digit rate every year for the past four interactive than before, allowing custom- By SAMANTHA CONTI the store is not just spatial or visual; it’s years. Smythson is owned by Jacques ers to pop open drawers and handle writ- a comprehensive, sensory experience.” Bahbout, who purchased the brand in ing paper, business cards and invitations. LONDON — Smythson may be best The new store is both playful and 2009 and whose title is chairman. Janowski, who declined to give any known for its deep blue writing paper, mindful of the brand’s heritage. Fixtures Products in the main hall range from sales projections for the brand or the gilt-edged notebooks and diaries in a ka- include a huge mirror encased in what myriad iPad, iPhone and Kindle covers store, said while Smythson is focused leidoscope of colors, but the brand is now appears to be a gilded Art Deco frame. and wallets in calfskin to the brand’s lat- on growth, the main priority right now is ready to turn the spotlight on to some of On closer inspection, the “gold” is actu- est hero, the Eliot bag, which is made quality and “delivering the extraordinary its other assets. ally made from a series of little Smythson from shrunken bull, with 14-karat gold to the customer.” Today, Britain’s most famous statio- notebooks that have been lined up with hardware and shagreen details. The He said there are plans to renovate ner will mark its 125th anniversary with only their gilded edges on view. large size costs 1,395 pounds, or $1,800, the current fleet of Smythson stores a cocktail at its newly refurbished and The back wall in the main and to open new ones, although expanded Bond Street store. Although hall features what could be a he declined to lay out details. paper products still play a starring role, Piet Mondrian painting, but it’s The Bond Smythson currently has 12 re- the new look of the store places an em- really a big bookcase stacked Street store. tail outlets and a limited whole- phasis on leather goods and on the life- with leather-bound notebooks sale distribution at stores in- style aspect of the brand. in myriad shapes, sizes and col- cluding Barneys New York. “Smythson was a sleeping beauty; it ors. In the stationery room, ar- “We’re all about triple-A real was never broken or licensed out. What tisans can customize products estate; we’re not a high-street we’re doing now is refining it,” said Andy with gold stamping. In addition brand, so it’s hard to put a num- Janowski, who joined the company earli- to their initials, customers can ber on it,” he said of the store er this year from Burberry, where he had have personal messages or even rollout strategy. served as chief operations officer and se- their child’s sketches embossed In another move to revitalize nior vice president of supply chain. on the leather books. the retail experience, Smythson Over the past few months, the brand The familiar, classical columns has revamped its Web site, which has introduced new product categories, and arches from the original in- now screens films — by Brits relaunched its Web site with cutting-edge teriors are still in place, while including Carter Peabody and technology and broadened its customiza- the floors are made from a mix of Matthew Donaldson — that high- tion offer. But it’s the flagship, at 40 New Carrara marble and English oak light the history and craftsman- Bond Street, that truly mirrors the com- parquet arranged in a traditional ship of the brand. pany’s new attitude. herringbone pattern. Large leath- The jewel in the crown of the Janowski and his team — which er goods take center stage in the main and has a special slot for an iPad in the new site is a pioneering technology that’s includes Samantha Cameron, wife hall, and there’s a simple reason for that: inside lining. unique to Smythson, a “responsive tem- of Britain’s Prime Minister David Smythson isn’t an empire built on paper. The bag also comes in snakeskin and plate” that automatically recognizes what Cameron and a Smythson veteran who “Seventy-five percent of the business crocodile, with the latter costing 18,000 type of device the customer is using and now serves as creative consultant — comes from leather goods. Ten percent pounds, or $23,220. Bags made from ex- formats the Web site to accommodate it. blew open the store’s interiors, trans- comes from stationery,” said Janowski. otic skins are housed in the “handbag Usually, different devices require sepa- forming back offices into selling space “This hall will change people’s percep- salon” in a part of the store that once rate apps, which means a shopping bas- and doubling the size of the shop floor tion of the brand.” contained stationery. ket stored on an iPhone can’t be trans- to 4,000 square feet. Janowski confirmed that the Smythson Smythson’s bags are made at its two ferred to an iPad. “It’s about celebrating our extraordi- group, which incorporates Smythson and British factories and one Italian factory. “We want people to say ‘Wow! nary legacy and bringing it to life in an Tivoli SpA, the Italian leather goods The company also shares a French tan- What a lovely shopping experience at expression of contemporary classicism,” manufacturer, has sales of 100 million nery with brands including Hermès. Smythson,’” said Janowski. “And we want said Cameron of the store. “It’s a transla- euros, or $129.2 million at current ex- There’s a new room dedicated to men’s to make sure shoppers find the same lux- tion of Smythson’s intrinsic identity, and change rates. Sales have grown at a dou- accessories — Smythson has added leath- ury online as they do in the store.” exclusive Amazon Collects Sales Tax in Calif.

footing as brick-and-mortar stores Carven Teams With Petit Bateau By Kristi Ellis that have been collecting and remit- ting sales taxes for many years. with that of another brand. tailer Didier Ludot, 10 Corso WASHINGTON — The long push The main provision in the By Joelle Diderich “Our collaborations up until Como and Japanese designer by brick-and-mortar retailers for California bill essentially changed now were often associated with Tsumori Chisato. Internet sales tax fairness reached the definition under existing PARIS — Carven creative di- a collection and a specific nar- “We would like to grow our a critical milestone on Saturday, California law of what constituted a rector Guillaume Henry has rative, but the line we have sales outside France and out- as certain online retailers such as physical presence. In Amazon’s case, joined up with Petit Bateau developed together with Petit side Europe, so the partner- Amazon.com began collecting and the physical presence was estab- to create a capsule collec- Bateau goes far beyond that. ships have a strategic dimen- remitting sales taxes for the first lished by an Amazon affiliate com- tion for adults and children, It’s no longer a story linked to a sion. It’s both a way of drawing time on orders made in California. pany that manufactures the Kindle as part of ongoing efforts by collection; it’s a story of shared people into our stores but also “Modern retailers operate in a e-book readers in California’s the iconic French children’s values,” he explained. to become even more present competitive environment that re- Silicon Valley. Amazon also has dis- wear brand to expand its in- “There is a form of joy- overseas,” he said. quires them to compete on price 24 tribution centers in California. ternational footprint. ful simplicity to what they Petit Bateau presently hours a day both in the store and California joins Texas and Consisting of nine styles, the do. When I think online,” said Sandy Kennedy, presi- Pennsylvania this year in requiring

collection will debut on Nov. 5 of Petit Bateau, I en dent of the Retail Industry Leaders Amazon to begin collecting sales taxes,

A bib by ss at Colette in Paris and 10 Corso think of freshness,” Association. “Closing the loophole and New Jersey and Virginia will re- Carven Sa Como in Milan, in addition to Henry told WWD. that has given Amazon and other e- quire the online giant to begin doing

x Petit iane as-yet-unnamed boutiques in The designer v tailers an unfair competitive advan- so next year, RILA noted. But retail Bateau. Vi

London and Brussels, before used Petit Bateau’s by tage over brick-and-mortar stores is groups are still calling for Congress to becoming available in 240 Petit trademark jer- essential to a free market economy act on pending federal legislation that

Bateau points of sale world- sey for everything Photo that is void of government picking has bipartisan support. wide on Dec. 5. from a formfitting winners and losers.” A RILA spokesman said while the Prices will range between smocked T-shirt The debate over taxing Web sales states’ enactments of Internet sales 50 euros, or $64 at current ex- dress with a white has taken place in Washington for tax laws are certainly a step in the change, for a boy’s polo shirt cotton collar, which more than a decade without any res- right direction, some online retail- and 250 euros, or $320, for a comes in both olution, but states have been enact- ers are still exempt from the differ- women’s dress. navy and red, to a ing their own laws to close what they ent state-by-state definitions of what Henry noted it was the sec- bib consisting of a say is a loophole that was created in constitutes “nexus” and are not obli- ond collaboration between the white polo collar 1992 in a Supreme Court ruling in gated to collect and remit sales taxes. two brands, after Petit Bateau on a gray cotton Quill v. North Dakota. The major- The National Retail Federation produced a T-shirt for a cap- piqué dickey. does 45 percent of its sales ity opinion in the case stated retail- launched a 60-day campaign in May sule babywear line that Carven “We tried to define the outside France and would ers are required to collect sales tax aimed at pressing Congress to pass designed exclusively for Paris Carven wardrobe through a like to increase this to 60 per- from out-of-state customers only if legislation that would give states concept store Colette to cele- few emblematic volumes,” he cent in the next few years, they have a “physical presence” in broad authority to collect sales brate his arrival at the fashion said. “It’s always about that Pergament said. the customer’s state. taxes from e-commerce sites in the house in 2009. mix between two extremes — The brand recently tapped E-tailers have relied on that de- 45 states that collect sales taxes. Since then, Carven has both seductive and demure.” Maison Kitsuné cofounders cision to avoid collecting sales tax The prospects for federal legisla- also collaborated with Robert Patrick Pergament, chief ex- Gildas Loaëc and Masaya on online orders. Brick-and-mortar tion passing this year are uncer- Clergerie and Zespa on shoes; ecutive officer of Petit Bateau, Kuroki to take over the artistic retailers argue that puts them at a tain because of the presidential Lafuma and Upla on bags and said the brand’s collabora- direction of its men’s and wom- competitive price disadvantage. election, which has shortened the backpacks; L’Amy on eyewear, tions with outside designers, en’s adult collections, starting The California state legislature time Congress will be in session. and Les Néréides on jewelry. launched two years ago, are fall-winter 2013. As a result, fu- passed legislation last year that was Congress is expected to break at However, Henry said it was part of its strategy of grow- ture outside collaborations will aimed at closing the legal loophole the end of next week until Election the first time that Carven had ing foreign sales. Previous likely focus more on children’s and putting Internet-only companies Day and return for a postelection merged its universe so closely projects involved vintage re- collections, Pergament said. such as Amazon.com on the same lame-duck session.

w17a003a;5.indd 3 9/14/12 6:27 PM 09142012182820 4 WwD monday, september 17, 2012

This season, designers LONDON COLLECTIONS were inspired by everything from distant lands to women warriors and, yes, even Spring 2013 Ernest Hemingway.

Moschino Clements Nicole Preen by Topshop Cheap & Ribeiro Fahri Thornton Unique Chic Bregazzi

For more coverage, see WWD.com/ runway.

Matthew Williamson: To India and Terrific black cotton based performers AlunaGeorge, short circle skirts. For evening, stripes and sheer chiffon. to the annual Holi Festival, minidresses followed — modernist creative director Rossella there were black dresses pavéd Slipdresses and simple shifts with its explosion of colored takes on the classic Saharienne, Jardini sent a collection that with matching sequins the size were also crafted in panels of the powders, paints, and springtime the sleeves and bodices lashed fused Seventies, hip-hop, African of M&Ms and paired with jelly contrasting patterns. Some of the exuberance. From tailored pieces tightly. Short perfecto jackets in culture and sporty street themes. sandals covered in silver glitter. designers’ stricter silhouettes to leather to silk chiffon evening black raffia and fringed suede The opening look — a — such as V-neck shifts or tank gowns, every bit of Matthew were also standout pieces. magenta, mauve and lemon Nicole Fahri: Inspired by the tops — nodded to the minimalist Williamson’s clothing was doused While loincloths of pleated yellow suede bomber jacket particular grayish light of trend that Phoebe Philo has or daubed in primary colors or leather lapping over sheer paired with purple metallic Carrara, an Italian town famous pioneered as creative director of pavéd with sparkling beads and dresses heightened the jacquard flared trousers — for its marble, Nicole Fahri sent Celine. However, Thornton and mirror ornaments. Amazonian mood, the spell was set the tone for clothes that out clothes in neutrals such as Bregazzi’s lighter, diaphanous For his 15th anniversary broken with garish colors and too were playful, yet wearable. A chalk white, taupe, and light fare offered a fresh, appealing collection, Williamson said he much disco decoration, including maxidress emblazoned with the gray. Crinkly trouser suits and take on a minimal aesthetic. wanted to go back to his design cages of crystals and cobalt peace sign evoked the Seventies, dresses ­— some with an abstract roots and rediscover his love of fringe. If Schwab finds a way to while Jardini used traditional mountain-inspired print — had Topshop Unique: This slick lineup India. That translated into purple tame his surfeit of ideas, he could African prints for flared trousers, the texture of paper lunch was built on fabrics that and white suits with a rainbow find himself a more important a tied-at-the-midriff shirt, and a bags, and a diaphanous trench revealed and concealed the of colors dripping down the back player in the fashion jungle. full skirt that was worn with an sparkled with tiny silver and gold body, all worked into insouciant, or front, and a leather jacket embellished lime mesh T-shirt. threads. Equally delicate were unstructured silhouettes. Sheer the color of café au lait, sleeves Issa London: Daniella Helayel’s “It’s like we are now,” shimmering beaded sleeveless chiffon dresses came in loose glistening with shiny beads and runway sizzled with searing Jardini said of her lineup. “A blouses and floaty chiffon shifts shift shapes and were appliquéd mirrors. And working with the tropical colors, and Seventies mix of cultures and influences. with pleats across the front. with angular, devoré motifs, artist Shane McAdams, abstract silhouettes fit for breezy walks on Traditional African prints and A dose of leather — including while others were done in roomy images of Kerala and Tibet the sand or post-swim cocktails. typical Italian jacquards, all shorts and jackets — grounded caftans. They contrasted with emerged on some of the trousers Models, their hair adorned with mixed together.” this ethereal, dreamy collection. more substantial pieces, such as to round out this sexy, giddy fresh orchids, donned caftans in oversize sweaters — one of which collection. tangerine and hot pink, jumpsuits Clements Ribeiro: Suzanne Preen by Thornton Bregazzi: Designers was paired with a sequined and with a parrot print, and long Clements and Inacio Ribeiro sent Justin Thornton and Thea chiffon skirt — boxy blazers and Marios Schwab: An impressive silk dresses — some with halter out a jaunty, youthful collection, Bregazzi chose a light-filled wing slouchy, cocoonlike jackets. The turnout of major retailers and necklines — in rich colors such as packed with the label’s signature of the Natural History Museum collection, done in a spare palette editors underscored the fact that purple, emerald, yellow and royal knitwear and details such as to host their return to the London of black, white, silver and gray, Marios Schwab is a talent worth blue. For day trips into town there clusters of flowers on the collars show schedule. The location was marked a sophisticated turn for following. With Lisa Gerrard’s were swingy, knitted skater dresses of white blouses. There were appropriate, given the python, Topshop’s higher-end label. spine-tingling vocals on the with deep V-necks that came in colorful striped crewnecks crocodile and stingray prints that soundtrack, this tribal-themed hot pink or acid green, with and reminiscent of Breton sailor tops, snaked across the duo’s modern Kinder Aggugini: Inspired by Ernest show opened on a strong note without sparkling embellishment and white cardigans dotted with yet feminine silhouettes. Hemingway’s “The Old Man with a filmy burgundy dress. on the shoulders or skirts. black sequined flowers. The duo High collared, floaty dresses and the Sea,” Kinder Aggugini It was fronted with a slither of also dug into their archive and were done in a patchwork showed a print-heavy collection leather strips, the bodice framed Moschino Cheap & Chic: Set to a found check patterns, which they of reptilian prints that were with a nautical theme. Typical in jutting black raffia. live performance by London- used for sleeveless dresses and spliced against panels of graphic sailor tattoos — swallows,

w17a004(5)a.indd 1 9/16/12 3:26 PM 09162012152839 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2012 5 WWD.COM

Matthew Marios Issa London Kinder Aggugini Williamson Schwab

SPRING 2013 COLLECTIONS LONDON Temperley London

mermaids, swordfish, and ships’ this collection saw Henry House of Christopher wheels — adorned pinafore Holland take a softer and prettier Holland Raeburn dresses and paneled skirts. approach to his perennially Broderie anglaise appeared on quirky designs. There were cute, dip-dyed tailored jackets while drop-waisted tea dresses, one a vintage map tea-towel print done in a dusty mauve floral faded into a gingham dress. print; a parka crafted in a rich For evening, the long tentacles purple metallic jacquard, and of octopi crawled over devoré tie-dye print smock dresses inset dresses. These shipwrecked with lace panels. Accessories, lasses also sported clogs by the such as slouchy beanies Swedish company Hasbeens, embellished with gobstopper- and hats by Stephen Jones. sized crystals and flat metallic leather ankle boots, further Temperley London: Alice enlivened Holland’s peppy slant Temperley looked to the on the decade’s aesthetic. intricate patterns of Moorish tiles for her collection of Christopher Raeburn: Christopher glamorous dresses, while her Raeburn was inspired by silhouettes were inspired by the first female aviators and Dior’s New Look, with a surfeit embraced some new, ladylike of full skirts and saucerlike hats. shapes and offered more of his Appliqué also played a big role, signature outerwear. New to adding ornate detail to fine silk his repertoire this season is a mesh blouses and full skirts. laminated lace, which came in a The show opened with a hooded parka, a bomber jacket column dress that had a red and matching cycle shorts, a bodice and striped skirt, made collarless zip-front blouse, and with wide ribbon appliquéd one of the designer’s signature onto the fabric. rucksacks. Also pretty was a Eveningwear, Temperley’s vintage map print that appeared undisputed forte, came in on a loose shift dress. “So much delicate ivory and the palest blue. of what we do is archaeology, Morocco’s wilder side showed digging up these things from up in digital prints, which looked the past,” said Raeburn. The GIANNONI best on silk wide-leg trousers collection was teamed with

worn with a matching top. black nylon wedges, and some of GIOVANNI

the girls carried sweet leather BY House of Holland: Though Nineties bags in the shape of dogs, owls grunge was the starting point, or rabbits. PHOTOS 6 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2012 Buyers Praise New York’s Unique Take

{Continued from page one} The Liberty customer is quite an inde- est in white, color or metallics, perforated Alexander Wang.” nobody looks uncomfortable. You can look pendent thinker and usually doesn’t fol- or laser-cut. Slouchy pajama pants, shorts, Favorite collections: “Helmut Lang’s perfectly fashionable in a flat, pointy shoe.” low trends, but we always sell color and flared and A-line skirts and dresses, some blockbuster collection with Crayola Tomoko Ogura, senior fashion director print. The pre-collections were, for the with cut-out details. Sporty and utility- brights, netting and seaming, Narciso of Barneys New York, agreed. “Simplicity is most part, all well thought-out with regard feeling motorcycle jackets and vests, bold Rodriguez’s color palette and craftsman- taking us in a new direction,” she said. to fabric seasonality, price and more fre- graphic stripes and Mod, streamlined sil- ship, a superior collection, Marc Jacobs’ A fresh breeze could also be felt com- quent deliveries to address the growing houettes at Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors. obsession with op art, black- and-white ing from the direction of new design- global demand for seasonless, affordable Favorite shows: Proenza Schouler, Vera and stripes was very commercial. Milly’s ers — some said the biggest crop in many clothing.” Wang, The Row, Michael Kors, Marc new sporty direction, a departure from seasons — such as Marissa Webb, Tanya Favorite collections: “Marc Jacobs — like a hit Jacobs, Altuzarra, Helmut Lang, Thakoon, designer Michelle Smith’s usual ladylike Taylor, Ostwald Helgason, Tia Cibani and to the head! Masterful! Victoria Beckham, Jason Wu, Ralph Lauren, Creatures of and uptown style.” Houghton. relaxed, playful and feminine. A nice move the Wind and Suno. Up-and-comers: Marissa Webb, who worked “They had perfect collections,” said forward. Joseph Altuzarra was original at J. Crew and Tanya Taylor, formerly Stephanie Solomon, vice president of fash- and thought-provoking, proving the hype Barbara Atkin, vice president of fashion with Elizabeth and James. “I will abso- ion direction at Bloomingdale’s. “Often was genuine, and Diane von Furstenberg direction, Holt Renfrew: lutely buy them.” when you look at emerging designers just gets stronger and stronger.” Sound bite: “It was a happy, upbeat season, they’re a little green. Not these.” with lots of newness, sexiness and bold- Tomoko Ogura, senior fashion director, On the down side, buyers said there con- Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion ness. It was strong. What I loved most is Barneys New York: tinue to be too many shows and presenta- director, Neiman Marcus: that it was real clothes. Beautiful, struc- Favorite shows: “Narciso Rodriguez’s tions up and down the island of Manhattan; Favorite shows: “Proenza Schouler’s em- tured, tailored separates and little jack- uplifting show with beautiful de- prices remain a concern — although de- brace of color and ability to mix technol- ets really answered a need.” tails, Proenza Schouler’s fantastic py- signers are attempting to address that with ogy with craft, especially the leather and Color story: “Color is completely moving. thon patchwork pieces, Rag & Bone, lower entry price points — and some retail- snakeskin pieces held together with cro- We’ve come out of this world where black Alexander Wang, Jennifer Fisher’s fine ers are worried over the large amount of chet, and photo prints punctuated by em- rules. The biggest message we’re tell- jewelry, Juan Carlos Obando’s beautiful black on the runways for spring. broidery. Altuzarra’s spectacular collection ing customers is that color is seasonless. presentation with papier-mâché animal Here, buyers’ views of the New York with strict tailoring, The Row’s quiet, un- Jenny Packham had the most incredible heads on the mannequins and prints he season: derstated elegance, Vera Wang’s reembroi- bright orange evening gown. Zac Posen designed 12 years ago as a graphic de- dered lace and Alexander Wang’s futuris- did a burnt orange cocktail dress. Also, signer, Martin Cooper’s first spring col- Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion lection for Belstaff and Greg Lauren’s for office and store presentation, Bergdorf repurposed fabrics.” Goodman: Proenza Wes Trends: “A simplicity in dressing emerged Sound bite: “The season was energized Schouler Gordon on the runway and feels like a ‘moment.’ by abundant sunshine and the tradi- There’s been so much color, designers tion of American sportswear.” have pulled back. Designers could incor- Favorite collections: “The most promis- porate more color in the showrooms.” ing news came from the escalating Last word: Prices are often challenging; strength of young designers. Jason we keep talking to designers about the Wu and Joseph Altuzarra showed ex- price-value relationship. If our cus- traordinary sophistication and craft. tomer finds value and beauty in the The highlight of the collections was simplicity of dressing that we feel will Proenza Schouler’s innovative, en- become more relevant, and beauty in ergetic, sporty, luxurious, desire-in- the subtle details and craftsmanship, ducing collection. Advanced contem- they will pay for it.” porary designers Alexander Wang, Phillip Lim, Theyskens, Helmut Lang, Nicole Fischelis, group vice president and Rag & Bone, all escalated their game. fashion director, Macy’s: This is an increasingly important tier.” Trends: “Black-and-white, new graph- Trends: Leather dressing, sportif motifs, ics and geometrics, pale shades, artis- futurism and the new Mod, transpar- tic prints, merging materials and sport ent layers and palate cleansing whites. combined with femininity.” Must-haves: Leg-baring slits, knee-high Favorite shows: “Alexander Wang, Calvin gladiators, something blue, shorts and Klein’s art of craft fused with high- great jackets. tech, Ralph Lauren’s happy collection, Last word: “The sheer number of offer- Michael Kors, Prabal Gurung, Jason ings in the U.S. market indicates an Wu, Bibhu Mohapatra, Rag & Bone, 3.1 escalating interest in fashion on a na- Phillip Lim and Ruffian. Ralph Rucci tional level. It’s a good thing, albeit a is really the couturier of America, Marc demanding one.” Jacobs was fresh and modern, Nanette Lepore was charming and feminine, and Jeffrey Kalinsky, executive vice president of Alexander I loved Vera Wang.” designer merchandising, Nordstrom: Marc ▼ Up-and-comers: Ostwald Helgason, who Wang Jacobs Sound bite: “There were definitely some ANTONOV GIANNONI AND PASHA GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY showed at Milk Studios with Made, ‘love’ moments, and that’s all you can Alexandre Herchcovitch, Misha Nonoo ask for.” tic palate of black, white, nude and silver.” and Louise Goldin, a designer from Favorite collections: “Altuzarra, Thakoon, Trends: “Bold brights, electric blues, hot vibrant blues and bright greens. A pot- London, who is relaunching her collec- Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler be- pinks and orange — the new neutral of the pourri of prints, florals, digitized [imag- tion. cause they weren’t just merchandise, they season. Warm-weather leather laser cut to es], organic seascapes, geometrics, plus Kill that trend: “I’m seeing a lot of knee were designed and original. All of these look like lace, full skirts, sleeveless jackets, all the color are giving the customer the shorts. They don’t look good on most peo- designers had new propositions that will relaxed chic with utility or cargo details, fit chance to be an individual.” ple. Also, I’m glad we’re out of this whole excite our customers. We loved the graph- and flare silhouettes and dresses mixing Favorite collections: “Proenza Schouler, vintage movement.” ic nature of Marc Jacobs’ show, the little prints and fabrics.” Alexander Wang, Prabal Gurung, 3.1 jacket shapes and skirt shapes and long Sound off: “The enormity of black on the Phillip Lim, Altuzarra, Tory Burch, Reed Suzanne Timmins, senior vice president and lengths. Proenza Schouler’s perforated runway was a little surprising. I don’t con- Krakoff and Rodarte. Marc Jacobs can fashion director, Hudson’s Bay Co.: leather dress, patchwork denim jackets sider black to be a statement. I consider it change our view of fashion in seven min- I’m coveting: “Narciso Rodriguez’s embel- made of python and water snake and photo to be a staple. It’s not something that will utes. The stripe has been around forever lished tops, Jason Wu’s sexy black dress- prints pieced and grommeted. Thakoon’s emotionally engage customers. It’s not a and he takes that and puts it in our face. es, Proenza Schouler’s python jean vest prints mixed with knitwear were very so- conversation starter. I’m going to be talking Donna Karan did a beautiful job, Victoria and Rodarte’s fringe jacket. Also, Phillip phisticated. Joseph Altuzarra’s split-sleeve about orange as [the] new neutral.” Beckham looked fantastic and extended Lim’s patchwork denim, and Altuzarra’s blazers, prints and men’s workwear fabrics Last word: A lot of people are showing in her collection, The Row had a really dis- knee high sandals by Gianvito Rossi — for outerwear. Proenza Schouler are es- New York, which bodes well for our in- tinctive point of view, and Oscar de la they were killer!” tablished American designers. They’re a dustry. People are feeling confident and Renta had a new eye.” Trends: “Black-and-white, the most wear- reason to come to New York. They have a financing new businesses.” Up-and-comers: Tanya Taylor, Dean Quinn, able new trend to emerge, collage patch- global view of fashion.” Wes Gordon, Osklen. “I have a whole list of work, the full skirt as an item will take a Last word: “Stores don’t need more merchan- Colleen Sherin, senior fashion director, them that I’m sending my buyers to see.” bite out of the dress market share next dise. Our customers are looking for some- Saks Fifth Avenue: spring. The new stripes are changing di- thing they don’t own already. There are Sound bite: “The top priority entering fash- Stephanie Solomon, vice president of fashion rection and alternating widths for graph- more and more shows. Designers feel that ion week was to find beautiful, wearable direction, Bloomingdale’s: ic impact, caged footwear.” if they don’t have a show, they’re not valid.” fashion, infused with exciting new ideas, In summary: “It was a very optimistic sea- Production notes: “No drop in designer strong color, and print, and New York de- son with lots of new reasons to be opti- prices, but designers are offering du- Ed Burstell, managing director, Liberty, London: livered on this promise.” mistic, because the trends have shifted.” plicate styles or silhouettes in fabrica- High hopes: “We were looking for that rare Trends: “Two color stories for spring: bold, Trends: “Op art; the Sixties and Mod, and tions with more accessible price points. combination of original thought and com- brilliant brights, especially yellow, blue, sport, with bra tops, track pants, anoraks, Some houses addressed this with diffu- merciality. Overall, it was hit and miss, orange and green. To balance the brights, tennis dresses and halter dresses with sion brands, resulting in increases in the with a number of young designers still soft, muted, washed-out colors of blush, cutouts. Comfort with less aggressive main line. Many new designers are tar- being inspired by last season’s Paris.” sea foam, pale blue. Also, lace, especially footwear, based on the sneaker and moc- geting entry price points.” Trends: “We were encouraged by both lace in colors and realistic floral and bo- casins, easing of pants and fuller skirts, Up-and-comers: Ostwald Helgason, Tia muted, and, when available, strong color. tanical prints; leather, python, suede, new- the jacket reigned as reinterpreted at Cibani and Houghton. WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2012 7 WWD.COM Stock Market’s Rise Belies Economic Pain Jack Wills Sets

{Continued from page one} make them open their wallets,” he said. But if you look at jewelry store sales Retailers have in recent years tight- But instead of the 200-point jump relative to where they were pre- reces- U.S. Expansion ened up their operations, cutting inven- the Dow Jones Industrial Average saw sion and compare that with overall re- tories and cost, shortening supply chains after Bernanke opened up the mone- tail sales, jewelry store sales look very and ramping up spending on fast-grow- tary floodgates, Dhawan said the mar- poor,” he said. By SAMANTHA CONTI ing e-commerce sites. The competition ket needs to jump 2,000 points for con- Tiffany & Co. has prepped investors has been particularly fierce, with ram- sumers to really budge. LONDON — The momentum is building at pant price promotions and the winners That’s in part because the stock Jack Wills. largely taking share from weaker com- market is still kind of underwhelming. The British clothing and accessories petitors instead of expanding the market. Scott Hoyt, senior director of consum- brand targeted at university-age students has Setting aside the upbeat stock mar- er economics at Moody’s Analytics, said 0.9% reported that sales in the year ended Jan. 31 ket, unemployment remains high at 8.1 the stock market is still crawling out of climbed 32 percent to 121.8 million pounds, percent, 12.5 million Americans are the hole it fell·· into during the recession. INCREASE IN RETAIL SALES IN or $196 million. out of work and looking for a job, more “You would think [the market] would All figures have been converted at current have given up looking, Europe faces have gone up at least with the pace of AUGUST FROM JULY. exchange rates. continued fiscal crisis and Asia’s dra- inflation and maybe population growth,” Adjusted EBITDA, or earnings before in- matic growth has slowed. Hoyt said. “The stock market’s up right for weakness in luxe this year, cutting terest, taxes, depreciation and amortization The best thing that most economists now, but so are gasoline prices, and food its profit guidance twice. was 11.8 million pounds, or $19 million. have to say about the economy is that prices are about to follow….So for every Even the wealthiest of consumers EBITDA was down nearly 26 percent from it could be worse. plus there’s a minus.” The Dow Jones are touched by the weakness. the previous year, due entirely to 20 million “We’re getting very mixed signals,” Industrial Average is ahead 11.3 percent “It’s clear that when there is tension pounds, or $32.2 million, that was invested in said Ken Goldstein, economist at The this year, but has notched only a 1.1 per- and a little bit of bad results from an international expansion. Conference Board. “In some sense, cent gain over the past five years. economic point of view, the purchasing A company spokeswoman confirmed that that’s the good news, in that it’s not power of clients is less than before,” the expansion, mostly in the U.S. but also all uniformly bad.” said Michele Sofisti, chief executive in Hong Kong, was funded directly from the That’s little comfort, though. officer of The Sowind Group, the company’s cash flow. August retail sales rose a seasonal- The hope is that there watchmaking arm of PPR. “We are investing heavily in our future, ly adjusted 0.9 percent versus July, but Sofisti, speaking at the having opened a total of 29 new stores: eight the big gains were seen in gasoline will be a rally in the TimeCrafters watch fair in New in the U.S., two in Hong Kong, 11 in the U.K. sales and automobiles. Specialty ap- York, said the recession has changed as well as eight Aubin & Wills stores,” said parel and accessories stores saw a 0.1 many luxe brands. “It brought peo- Peter Williams, cofounder and chief execu- percent sales dip, while department stock market, which will ple to reality,” he said. “Until that tive officer of the brand, said. stores nudged up just 0.1 percent. point, it was like an air balloon. Aubin & Wills is a clothing and accessories “It is just really difficult, facing make people feel a little There were brands with authentic- brand targeted at an older, post-university set. the American consumer right now ity, craftsmanship and value — and “The Jack Wills teams have worked hard, and trying to get a price increase,” bit wealthier and make there were other brands, where you and I am incredibly pleased with the results. Goldstein said. pay the price just because of the I firmly believe that our strategy of invest- August apparel prices fell 0.5 name. And I’m not speaking just ment will pay off in the longer term given the percent from July, posting the first them open their wallets. about the watch industry.” brand’s truly global appeal,” Williams added. decline since February just as As companies and industries find Last year in the U.S., Jack Wills opened stores theoretically gained leverage — RAJEEV DHAWAN, their way forward, there is, however, in locations including Philadelphia, during the back-to-school season. GEORGIA STATE UNIVERSITY a dim light at the end of the tunnel. Washington, D.C., and Greenwich, Conn. The Rajeev Dhawan, director of the “The recovery should get stron- company said it plans to open more stores in Economic Forecasting Center at ger, probably around about next sum- the Northeast and on the East Coast. Georgia State University, said the Fed’s And even the luxe chains, which until mer,” predicted Moody’s Analytics’ Hoyt. On Nov. 1, Jack Wills will open in New efforts to jump-start the recovery were recent jitters sparked by a warning from That would amount to another year Canaan, Conn., at 136 Elm St., bringing the “the only thing positive at this point. Burberry Group were seen as strong, for retailers to wait until they have any U.S. store count to 13. The company opened “The hope is that there will be a rally have lost ground. Hoyt looks at jewelry real economic wind at their backs. a store in Chatham, Mass., at the start of July. in the stock market, which will make stores as a proxy for the industry. — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM Jack Wills plans to continue opening stores in people feel a little bit wealthier and “Year-over-year growth·· is strong.... ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD the U.S. in 2013. Christian Dior Sales Hanro Knits to Debut for Spring sured woman. She knows what she and $640, and dresses will cost be- Rise 28% in 1st Qtr. By KARYN MONGET likes and places a value on quality tween $260 and $800. Colors will and workmanship,” he said. include coral, peach, coffee, deep Louis Vuitton. HANRO OF SWITZERLAND IS The focus of the collection, taupe, light aqua, stone, sand, slate, By MILES SOCHA Revenues at LVMH for launching its first ready-to-wear which will be available in sizes 2 off-white and black. Fabrics will in- the three-month period collection, called Hanro Knits, to 12, will be soft silhouettes. Styles clude tulle, lace and French terry, PARIS — Sales at the ended July 30 rose 22 per- for spring. will include shirts, drawstring as well as blends of silk and elas- Christian Dior fashion cent to 6.59 billion euros, The 21-piece collection will be pants, long and short skirts, cardi- tane and cotton and silk voile. house increased 28 per- or $8.28 billion. previewed at the Fashion Coterie, gans, elongated camisoles and un- “We looked at pricing of cent in the first quarter Dollar figures are con- which begins Wednesday, and will constructed dresses. other brands that use the same ended July 31 to 323 mil- verted from euros at aver- start selling at hanro.com from Feb. Tops will retail for between materials, and the pricing is lion euros, or $405.7 mil- age exchange rates for the 20. Distribution is aimed at major $130 and $640, while skirts will right in line — not much less lion. Dior noted department and specialty stores in be priced between $300 and $800. expensive but not over the top,” that revenues the U.S. that sell Hanro products Pants will sell for between $280 explained Snodgrass. in its own retail such as Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth stores advanced Avenue, Bloomingdale’s and the 36 percent ver- $405.7M first freestanding Hanro boutique Looks from sus the year-ago in New York. The line will also be Hanro Knits. period. sold at major stores and upscale Dior had FIRST-QUARTER SALES boutiques in the U.K., Germany reported sec- TOTAL AT CHRISTIAN DIOR and Switzerland, as well as Dubai. ond-quarter Jan Snodgrass, president of results in July Hanro USA Inc., said the company but restated decided to introduce rtw to the them Friday as its finan- period to which they refer. 128-year-old brand’s portfolio for cial year-end has been Dior SA cited double- spring because of “strong” cross- changed to April 30. digit momentum at Louis over trends with innerwear. Sidney Toledano, Dior’s Vuitton; “robust” demand “We looked at ways to expand chief executive officer, for liquor, watches and the footprint of the brand and we told WWD July and August jewelry, and an “excellent looked at trends in rtw and our were good months with “a performance of DFS and sleepwear where we have the very strong trend across Sephora globally.” know-how, quality and workman- all product categories.” In July, LVMH had said ship. It was a natural extension for Dior previously said sales in the first half rose us….We also looked at the current revenues in the first half 26 percent to 12.97 billion Hanro customer and concluded the ended June 30 advanced euros, or $16.83 billion. rtw will be something she can wear 29 percent to 573 million According to an LVMH at the office and into the evening,” euros, or $743.6 million. spokesman, Dior SA’s fi- said Snodgrass. “The rtw is meant Christian Dior SA is nancial calendar was to be layered and our intimates go the parent company of the changed in order to allow very well with the collection.” Dior fashion house and for more timely dispersal He added that the Hanro cus- LVMH Moët Hennessy of dividends. tomer is a “cosmopolitan, self-as- 8 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2012 WWD.COM

FOR MORE accessories IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ accessories-news. Casadei Pushes the Wedge

steel wedge with a degrade effect that The biggest market for Casadei re- By RACHEL STRUGATZ will come in white, gray, black or red and mains Italy, and the fastest-growing re- retail between $900 and $1,000. gions include the Far East and Middle NEW YORK — Casadei is projecting Casadei attributes his family-owned East. The creative director is looking to nearly $50 million in sales for next year, company’s success to attention to de- open a store here on Madison Avenue as EICHNER with hopes that a series of complicated tail. Revenues grew 20 percent in 2011 soon as possible and to enter Brazil. The STEVE

silhouettes will help get it there. and he projects more than $40 million in digital world is another area the brand BY Every season, three or four techno- global sales by yearend. In 2013, Casadei wants to tackle, and next year it will see

logically advanced constructions are in- is hopeful that this number will again in- the launch of e-commerce at its digital PHOTOS troduced to the lineup, Casadei creative crease by 20 percent. flagship casadei.com. Casadei creative director Cesare Casadei with director Cesare From 2011 through December The brand introduced a new store his wife and muse Alessandra Casadei holding Casadei told WWD of this year, the brand will concept at its Rome location in 2011, and the Blade pumps. at the company’s have opened a total of 13 each shop that’s opened since has imple- showroom here freestanding boutiques in mented a series of mirrored ceilings, trying to perfect the pointy-toe stiletto (it while in town for places such as Casablanca, black lacquered glass panels covered in also comes in a wedge), which has height New York Fashion white leather and waxed (115 mm), a thin heel and manages to re- Week. The focus was Afromosia wood wall dis- tain a femininity that sometimes gets lost on the wedge this Wedges from Casadei’s plays. Flagships have in the ether of extreme footwear. time around, he said, spring collection. tobacco-colored croco- “If women can’t walk, then women with innovations like dile seating. don’t need it,” said Casadei, echoing a patchwork heel com- A new brand- the words of his father, Quinto Casadei. prised of three colors of ing strategy will The elder Casadei founded the name- wood that were hand cut be executed in tan- sake company in 1958 that at one time and assembled or a wedge dem with spring or another gainfully employed Manolo fashioned from laser-cut 2013 deliveries Blahnik, Christian Louboutin and plastic treated with heat and early next year. The Giuseppe Zanotti. a brush to achieve the look of brand’s black-and- Cesare admitted that the first proto- a cracked mirror with a moth- white boxes will have type of the Blade — which originally had er-of-pearl effect. An “invisi- a shimmery, pearlized a plastic heel — broke. That’s when he ble” Lucite wedge is intended to finish and an updated turned to steel, which he calls the defin- give the illusion that the shoe has no heel Morocco; logo, as well as shop- ing material of the shoe. He picked up an — but the wedge isn’t continuous, with a Cannes, ping bags to emphasize ivory leather pump with its sleek metal slither of space between where the heel of France; the rebranding efforts on a appendage — set to debut at the brand’s the foot meets the top of the heel. Dubai Mall in consumer level. spring 2013 presentation in Milan this The main reason for Casadei and Dubai; Rome; This will culminate week — which looks hardly sturdy his wife, muse and right hand in the Sofia, Bulgaria, the brand’s four-part ex- enough to hold the weight of an adult fe- business Alessandra Casadei’s trip to and Rostov, pansion plan that kicked off male. Casadei gave surety that it does. Manhattan was to attend the Prabal Russia in 2011; two years ago, Casadei said, All footwear is produced in-house at a Gurung show on Sept. 8, as the brand and in Russian cities which includes the continued factory in Rimini, Italy, about 200 miles collaborated with the designer on the Moscow, Saint Petersburg, opening of additional retail loca- south of Venice on the Adriatic Coast, shoes for his spring collection. This Yekaterinburg and Kazan from March tions, renovating the showrooms in New and it’s been this way since the com- was Casadei’s first partnership with an through September of this year. Currently, York and Milan (the latter was completed pany’s inception 54 years ago. The same American-based designer, and the brand the brand maintains 45 doors and plans in this summer) and launching an e-com- woman has been responsible for sample worked with Gurung on developing two 2013 to set up shop in Shanghai, Beijing, merce enabled Web site early next year. production — by hand — since the late silhouettes — a sandal and a pointed Kuwait, Manila and the south of France. The One of the brand’s best-selling styles Sixties. The brand also employs four mesh-toe pump, both of which were in- shoes are sold at more than 500 doors world- remains the Blade, which was introduced women specifically tasked to embroider spired by Casadei’s popular Blade de- wide, with 25 of those in the U.S., including into the permanent collection two years and embellish each pair of shoes, when sign. Both styles have an acetate-and- Barneys New York and Neiman Marcus. ago. Casadei said it was a lengthy process the style calls for it. Swarovski’s Green Move: Lead-free Crystal

the new product is just as brilliant. He conceded the By LUISA ZARGANI research was “very costly and intensive,” also because lead gave a certain “tenderness” to the crystal, making MILAN — Swarovski is going lead-free. it “softer, easier to cut,” so that the company had to im- The Austrian crystal firm has patented a formula for prove melting, forming and grinding tools, machinery the creation of a new product, the Advanced Crystal, and chemical formulations. which is lead-free. He was adamant that the costs not fall back onto the “This was an almost impossible task and we start- customer, so Advanced Crystal will not be more expensive ed researching it 10 years ago,” said Markus Langes- than Swarovski’s crystals that previously contained lead. Swarovski, great-great-grandson of Daniel Swarovski, The company plans to fully change its overall collections founder of the company, in an exclusive interview. with the formula: “Our business-to-business, business-to- A Swarovski crystal. “Lead was always a key ingredient in crystals and consumer and our own jewelry [divisions]. Anyone work- helped add the quality of shine.” ing with us will receive Advanced Crystal,” he said. Langes-Swarovski, who has been managing the The executive said the company, which closed 2011 and Brazil, which “is doing incredibly well.” group’s Elements Business division since January, said with sales of 2.2 billion euros, or $3 billion at average While conceding 2012 was “not an easy year,” he was the formula allows crystals to be “as beautiful and with exchange, invests 4 percent of revenues in technology. optimistic and “confident in the way the business is the same properties” as those with lead. Crystals previ- “But it’s not enough. We have an obligation to do more, set up.” The company is planning to further build the ously could contain up to 30 percent lead, which was and innovation has been one of our key success movers. Swarovski brand and expand its product categories. never harmful to customers, explained the executive. There is a strong appreciation for new products, expec- The firm launched an entertainment division and is “This is not about consumer safety considerations. tations are high, customers and clients want new things, sharpening its role in the jewelry market by “looking There is no migration of lead when melted into crystal. which help catalyze creativity,” he said. at acquisitions over the years to come.” He said: “We The formula is inert, so there is no chance of any effects to Since he took over earlier this year, Langes- want to become a truly important player in the jewelry the consumer. It is our core policy to stay at the forefront Swarovski set up a new specific “innovation cell” to in- industry and evolve our new business models in 2013 when it comes to technical development and innovation, vest in “bolder and more intense” research. with our partners.” and we must take the step to prove that it is possible to To mark the founder’s 150th, the company is Langes-Swarovski was previously responsible for produce a product that is not only lead-free but is also as launching the Xirius 1088, produced according to the corporate brand management and communication, es- equally brilliant and beautiful,” said Langes-Swarovski. Advanced Crystal standard, with a gemlike cut and tablishing licensing partnerships which, in turn, led Advanced Crystal is available starting this month. available in a palette of 88 colors. “We have further im- to the creation of a beauty line and a collection of sun- Langes-Swarovski refused to see lead in crystals as a proved the brilliance of our flagship product, the jew- glasses, and he also helped expand the entertainment “dogma — we thought there had to be a way around it, and elry chaton, marketed under the new name Xirius 1088 spot Swarovski Kristallwelten, or Crystal Worlds. pushed production and research. If lead moved out of fuel reaching 2.5 times greater brightness,” he explained. A producer of precision-cut crystal for fashion, jew- and other appliances, we could do it with crystals, too.” Langes-Swarovski said company sales were up 8 per- elry and more recently lighting, architecture and in- He is especially pleased the company succeeded now cent until the second quarter, “a little below our expec- teriors, the company is still family-owned and run by as this is a “special year” — Oct. 24 marks the 150th an- tations of 10 percent,” but defined it as a “pretty good fifth-generation family members. The firm has 26,100 niversary of the founder’s birthday. “I would have loved performance given the environment.” As with most of employees and a presence in more than 120 countries. for him to see this,” said Langes-Swarovski. his peers, he remarked on the difficulties in Southern It also has its own branded lines of accessories, jewelry Lead, he said, is no longer a quality indicator, as Europe, compensated by solid gains in China, the U.S. and home decor items. WRAPPING IT UP: Emma Stone was among the starlets at the Calvin Klein after party to toast Francisco WWD STYLE Costa. PAGE 11 MEMO PAD

OSCAR’S NOTE TO CATHY: Oscar de la Renta took out a full-page ad in Friday’s edition of Women’s Wear Daily to publish an “open letter” ad that took Cathy Horyn to task for calling him a hot dog and alleging he copied Raf Simons’ styles at Dior in her review of his show last week. Margaret Sullivan, The New York Times’ public editor, weighed in Friday afternoon on nytimes.com. “There undoubtedly is a line of personal criticism that a writer shouldn’t cross when describing an artist or designer — though that line is pretty far out there when you consider the benefits such figures gain from AQUINO JOHN BY PHOTO

An Oscar de la Renta look on the runway in May. GIANNONI GIOVANNI BY Gaga’s PHOTO Travels Christian Dior couture, NEW YORK — Lady Gaga shown in July. employed bottle-shaped carriages drawn by horse, a very public boudoir and GIANNONI

some Lilliputian accented GIOVANNI boots over the two- BY day launch of her new PHOTO fragrance, Lady Gaga Fame. For more, see page 10.

A look from Oscar de la Renta’s show on Wednesday. PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER {Continued on page 11} 10 WwD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2012 Lady Gaga’s Message in a Bottle

In her second grand entrance and Knight have long been in two days, Lady Gaga arrived her artistic heroes. “So this is Gaga’s footwear. at her Macy’s Herald Square pivotal for me not as a project personal appearance Friday release, but it is a way to afternoon in a giant replica of celebrate two of the greatest eye her Lady Gaga Fame fragrance heroes in photography and art,” bottle drawn by a horse and she says. “It makes me want carriage. As she stood amidst to be a better artist for them. a horde of screaming fans, she They’re pushing me every day posed in a bronze headpiece, to reach my full potential.” black bondagewear and sky- The entertainer is proud to high black platforms adorned have created a black scent. “I with the little metal men she like black because it is a vacant wears in the fragrance ad before space,” she says. “But I’ve also heading in to greet 250 waiting been into white quite recently, fans who’d purchased fragrance actually, with my new music and sets earlier in the week. ‘Artpop.’ So, you know, I have to She wasn’t speaking to have both to survive. I wanted it the press at Macy’s, but on to be black, so I started thinking Thursday Gaga had plenty about the duality of meaning, to say in an interview at which is something I always toy Manhattan’s Mandarin Oriental. with in my music, and I thought And despite the fact that her that the name Fame would be new scent with Coty is selling good, because people would briskly, don’t expect her to be recognize that it’s something the run-of-the-mill celebrity that is associated with me. But bubbling forth on what a it’s also quite funny because “perfect fragrance this is.” it’s quite Warhol-ian and I don’t Wearing a Mordekai gold really give a s--t about perfume. crown and a salmon-and-black That’s sort of the point of it. I ichner

Basil Soda dress that appeared wanted to only create a great E

to be made of hair, she swept perfume, not any perfume that teve S into a 50th-floor room. Waving would sell, but a great artistic

the daggerlike black-and-gold one that the fans would not feel by fingernails she explains were cheated by. You should feel like Lady Gaga arrives at Macy’s.

inspired by the fragrance, she you’re buying something that is photos opines: “I don’t think it really as amazing as when you go to matters how it smells. I’m not Chanel or when you go to Yves actually smelled quite good — not? Aren’t we all insecure about best. When I’m confident and trying to be funny, but I guess Saint Laurent. You shouldn’t but ultimately, the concept of things? I feel sorry for everyone happy, I’m my most eccentric, what I’m trying to say is that in have to have money to have a Fame with this black fragrance else who’s running around because I’m celebrating fashion the celebrity fragrance world, luxury fragrance.” to me was the most important without a hat or a veil on, feeling and life. If you see me dressed you’re buying a fragrance And there’s a big sexual thing. I wanted there to be an terrible. I mean, honestly, there a little bit more plain, or maybe because you like the celebrity. undertone, she says. “This one explosive quality about this are days when I just don’t want a lot of leather, it means I’m So the challenge for me was in particular is very seductive. scent. When you first smell it, to be seen, so I put a veil on. I probably sad — or shoegazing.” to say that I’m going to create This is a very sexual fragrance. it’s a bit overwhelming. But just put a hat on. I have my burka. She attributes cutting down something that I think you This is for the woman that let it settle for a moment. It’s It’s because I don’t want you to on alcohol as one of the factors would love if you didn’t like me. wants to get laid, to be totally like a good pop song — you turn see my makeup-less, tired face buoying her mood lately. “I [Also,] it’s a nice and expensive honest. That is what fame is, the radio on and ‘aaaaahhh! today, or because I quite like it haven’t completely given up way for Steven Klein and Nick isn’t it? To get the world to It’s really loud!’ but then you’re and I don’t think my face is drinking, but I’ve given it up a Knight to take a big p--s on fall in love with you. You want like, ‘I know this one; it’s really more important than my hats, lot,” she says. “And it’s made commercialism. Truly, this was everyone to want to f--k you. Put good.’ I wanted it to be instantly to be honest. Everybody sees me a much happier person. I’m just a really exciting experiment it in a bottle, and I’m selling it.” addictive and instantly different things.” happy all the time.” with me and some friends of For those who were worried overbearing — kind of like Gaga definitely sees the “When I have a constant mine that I have viewed as about certain bodily fluids, me.” Gaga is said to currently world — and fashion — through flow of creativity that seems artistic heroes since I was never fear. Of her oft-quoted be working on a second scent, a different lens than many. to be executed well — as of a very young. This is not me in reference to wanting her scent which could launch in fall 2013. She noted that inspirations few months ago, I feel that I’ve the bottle — it’s an expression to smell like blood and semen, Fans attending Gaga’s for her much-talked about started to create some really of me and my relationship Gaga admits, “I always say Guggenheim launch party for looks — including the infamous great things. So when I’m to fame as a performer. The stuff like that to rattle people’s Lady Gaga Fame [see sidebar] meat dress — “all come from feeling good about my work, I darkness stays inside the bottle, cages, you know? I do it all the were required to wear masks separate places.” feel happy. When I’m feeling and out comes only the beautiful time.” Later, though, she notes, and hats. What would she like Ultimately, though, most not good about my work, I don’t parts of Fame.” “I probably will use that [blood to hide behind a mask? come from happy moods. feel happy — I feel miserable Gaga explains that Klein note] at some point, because it “Everything,” she says. “Why “When I’m happy, I’m at my and sad.” — Julie Naughton age

“Sleeping With Gaga” at Im an old runway prop, he said. in the chamber stayed frozen at of her recently shaved scalp. By the Guggenheim Museum. Inez van Lamsweerde sported a “15:00.” The performance was then, the crowd had begun to top hat. Someone was walking called “Sleeping With Gaga,” the trickle out. Those who left early

Mazur/Wire around in a fencing mask with a singer had tweeted earlier in the missed her unpeeling her top and taxidermy house cat attached at day, and she seemed to be saying flashing her breasts to the crowd Kevin its back. Muscled shirtless men something about the nature of from inside her chamber. It didn’t by in harnesses, meant to look like fame in the era of life-casting. garner much reaction.

photo the Lilliputian climbers who After about an hour, Gaga As the party wound down, hang off a nude Lady Gaga in the awakened. The DJ played David Lindsay Lohan, who knows ads for her new fragrance, Lady Bowie’s “Fame.” She looked in the something about the nature of Gaga Fame, handed out sample- vanity mirror, powdered her nose contemporary celebrity, stood spritzed cards. with a big black brush, produced outside the museum’s front Gaga slumbered through it all a bottle of Veuve Clicquot and door, smoking in a little alcove. on Thursday night, center stage posted iPad self-portraits on “People want to be able inside a giant mock-up of the Instagram before venturing to relate to people,” she bottle designed to contain the to the museum’s second floor. said between drags on her inky-black eau de parfum that A number of VIP guests had Parliament when asked about everyone was there to celebrate. taken in the performance from the live-streamed performance. The pop star had promised a a cordoned-off elevation of the “It’s nice when you can. I mean, performance at the launch party, museum’s ramp, including Yoko clearly with 29 million followers, and this seemed to be it. Her Ono, who looked on over the she has no problem with that. nap was projected on a giant frames of her dark glasses. But I think that’s what’s great screen above the crowd and Her victory lap complete, about her — that she’s a real To Sleep, Perchance to Meme live-streamed to her fans online. Gaga promptly returned to the person at the end of the day.” Partygoers were permitted to lay bottle. The celebrated tattoo WWD thanked her for her time THIS WAS THE LAST big party in black-tie masquerade, sipping hands on the singer, who wore artist Mark Mahoney, who had flown and told her to enjoy her evening. of fashion week, and guests black cocktails that smoked with a long black gown and 24-karat- from Los Angeles specifically “Well, it’s nice hiding here mingled about the lobby of the dry ice. Marc Jacobs stood near the gold-plated crown, through a for the event, began inking a anyways,” she said. Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum bar in a pair of bedazzled horns, little porthole. A digital clock cherubic little figure at the base — Matthew Lynch

w17a010a;6.indd 10 9/14/12 7:59 PM 09142012195956 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2012 11 WWD.COM

I will not spill,” said Camilla the nicest e-mails, he said, FASHION SCOOPS Al Fayed, Issa’s owner, of the “Well, I’ll have to thank my eyewear that awaited every assistant for that — I am guest and that ranged from kidding. I don’t have an giant daisies to exaggerated assistant.” DELLA VALLE V. FIAT: Emma Stone cat’s eyes in black or gold, to All kidding aside, they “Inadequate” is how in Calvin champagne flutes. chatted about Zoe’s juggling Tod’s chief Diego Della Klein with Guests including Derek her roles as designer, stylist, Valle summed up Sergio Francisco Blasberg, who cohosted the mother and reality star. Marchionne’s tenure as Costa. evening, Megha Mittal, Eugenie (Bravo is gearing up for chief executive officer of Niarchos, Dasha Zhukova and season five of “The Rachel

Fiat Chrysler. EICHNER STEVE BY PHOTO Arki Busson made their way Zoe Project.”) As for keeping On Friday, Della down the club’s staircase, her job titles all in check, Valle issued a statement past the soaring neck of Zoe said, “Some days I criticizing Marchionne a stuffed giraffe, and into Camilla Al Fayed look at Rodger [Berman] my and the car group’s the dining room’s dark, and Daniella husband and say, ‘I can’t. I chairman, John Elkann, theatrical decor. Mingling Issa Helayel. just can’t.’ And he says, ‘You PHOTO BY TIM JENKINS TIM BY PHOTO for putting their own with guests was Angelina Ypma, have to. Your name is on it.’” interests ahead of those who recently joined Issa as Before the lights went of their employees and chief executive officer after a career with down for a Rachel Zoe runway show, defining them as “the brands including Bulgari and Chanel. Gurung pulled a Winfrey, asking Zoe real problem” of Fiat, — MILES SOCHA AND SAMANTHA CONTI where she sees herself being five years “and not the workers, from now. “I hope Sky-Sky will have a Italy or the crisis (which ON THE PROWL: The Sydney-based label sibling. I do always say I never really surely exists).” Sass & Bide is looking to expand its retail mapped this out....As long as I have a little Della Valle’s reaction operations outside Australia, and the bit of beach and a lot of family time, I’m came after Fiat revealed first stop will be New York. “We’ve grown going to be good,” she said. Thursday that its projects extensively in Australia in terms of our — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG about the Italian plants, retail presence over the past two or three outlined two-and-a- years,” said David Briskin, the brand’s chief KARL.COM 2.0: Karl Lagerfeld’s Web site half years ago, were no longer corral of starlets, models and socials executive officer. “So we’re now looking has been revamped to include a broader sustainable, given the industry’s in attendance — Emma Stone with at heading overseas. New York is our first fashion component. His upscale Karl negative market developments. beau Andrew Garfield, Diane Kruger, Dree stop to see if we can find a store in SoHo. Lagerfeld Paris women’s collection can Della Valle defined Marchionne and Hemingway, Erin Heatherton and Karlie And also we’d love to consider London as now be purchased exclusively online Elkann as “cosmopolitan furbetti Kloss were all on hand, each decked well, and a Paris store.” through the link to Net-a-porter, which [the Italian word similar to sly]” and out in Calvin. Briskin said he hopes a New York ships to 170 countries. The e-tail section said that he is among those Italian Hemingway was quite happy location will be open within the next for Karl Lagerfeld Paris’ men’s line is entrepreneurs that “did not want in with her look, a cream, minimalist year. In the meantime, the label has “coming soon,” according to the site. any way to be associated” with these ensemble. begun shipping to the U.K., U.S. and New The Kollections area features “assuming sirs.” “They sent this over for me and I Zealand from its online store. Lagerfeld’s most recent collections, Luca di Montezemolo, chairman was like, ‘Wow, they know me pretty Currently, Sass & Bide is stocked including Karl fall 2012 women’s and of Ferrari, part of the Fiat Group, well,’” she said. outside Australia at retailers including men’s, Karl Lagerfeld Paris 2012 women’s said Della Valle’s words were Stone was pretty pleased herself. Harvey Nichols in London and Net- and men’s and Lagerfeld fall 2012. “absolutely unacceptable” — a “It’s very cool — and look at this a-porter. Last year, the Australian Despite all the changes, never fear. somewhat unexpected turn, as the open back,” the actress said of her department store chain Myer acquired a karl.com remains home to his pithy two are longtime friends and business green jumpsuit, pivoting to reveal 65 percent stake in Sass & Bide for $42.8 Karlisms, such as: “I’m living my memoir, partners in ventures such as the new her exposed backside. The look even million. The label now has 19 stores, with I don’t need to write it.” And there’s: “I Ntv high-speed trains. Della Valle caught Costa off guard. “Oh my god, a New Zealand flagship set to open in know how annoying, impossible and hard clashed with Elkann earlier this year sexy!” the designer said when he 2013. — NINA JONES to please I can be. I wouldn’t recommend over the new governance of RCS greeted Stone. “I mean…wow!” myself as a guest to anyone.” Mediagroup, which didn’t allow him Judging by his spring collection, ON WITH THE ZOE: Prabal Gurung and Rachel The quotes are found on the site’s to grow his stake in the publishing sexiness is on Costa’s mind. The Zoe closed out New York Fashion Week homepage, still under the World company. — LUISA ZARGANI more provocative lineup was a hit Thursday night with a Q&A for American of Karl section, which also links to for Kruger. Express cardholders at Lincoln Center. other subsections chockablock with THAT’S A WRAP: One would think that “This show was one of my favorites, Gurung told the crowd, “I’m channeling photomontages, including Fashion after the last look from his spring one of the best Francisco has ever Oprah today.” and Places, giving an insight into the collection circled the runway, done in my book,” she said. “Often he Noting the designer was sounding designer’s favorite things. Under Art Francisco Costa would reward himself. goes more androgynous, and this was rather raspy, Zoe asked, “Did you hear & Culture, Lagerfeld suggests Paris’ Perhaps being whisked off to a cushy a real departure, really feminine. And him? He has fashion week voice. After Biennale des Antiquaires, for instance. spa to treat himself to a massage? for my body, I mean, I have boobs, so being complimented by Zoe for writing — JENNIFER WEIL Not so luxe. this collection is perfect.” “After the show, I went to have a — TAYLOR HARRIS slice of pizza on 39th Street,” Costa said Thursday evening, waiting for HOTHOUSE FLOWERS: “We’re going to a glass of Champagne at the bar of need these as the evening rolls on the new Beatrice Inn, locale of the — and for tomorrow morning,” said designer’s postshow dinner. “I just Daniella Helayel, popping on a pair of walked in, sat down by myself and had gigantic silver eyeglasses with lenses a slice and a Coca-Cola.…And I had a in the shape of dollar signs during the second slice after that.” after party at LouLou’s, following the For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. The rebooted restaurant served Issa show Saturday night. slightly more upscale fare to the “I got them from a secret place, and Spaces a positive review, he begged to differ. COMMERCIAL MEMO PAD “Ninety-nine-point-nine percent of the people who read it read it the way I REAL ESTATE ART DIRECTOR ...... $95- $110K Graphics, Bras, Panties, Shape wear read it,” he said. Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212 465 8300 Costume Jewelry Sales Exec {Continued from page 9} [email protected] Current or recent exp selling to buyers De la Renta restated a point he of costume jewelry in specialty/ mass their celebrity status,” Sullivan wrote. made in his letter, that he has no issue merchant stores. We are a fast growing, MERCHANDISER high energy & fun company! Exper- “Ms. Horyn’s review didn’t even come with negative criticism per se. “I don’t WOMEN’S SCARVES ience is a must for this position. You’ll close to the line.” care that Cathy gave me a bad review,” Showrooms & Lofts Men’s Dress Furnishings firm expand- manage an existing specialty store cli- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS ing into women’s accessories seeking ent base as well as targeting new cus- It will come as no surprise that he said. “Journalists — either you like it Great ’New’ Office Space Avail merchandiser for women’s scarves. tomers. Please send resume and salary ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Minimum 5 years merchandise man- reqmt’s to [email protected] Horyn is in agreement. “The term was or you don’t like it, and you have to do agement experience in better and used in a professional context, as in your job as a professional. But you have bridge women’s scarves necessary. Interested parties may email their re- someone showing off his tricks, like an to behave like a professional.” sume to [email protected] athlete,” Horyn told WWD. “As for the The designer did take umbrage with ad, it seemed a bit over-the-top.” Horyn’s assertion that he had been But de la Renta still stands by his influenced by Simons’ Dior couture statements in the ad, which said that if show, particularly his peplum bustiers. Horyn could call him a hot dog, he could “Mr. Simons showed his with cigarette call her “a stale 3-day old hamburger.” pants. Mr. de la Renta went with shorts,” On Friday, the designer said Horyn wrote. De la Renta pointed he had received numerous calls out that he showed a peplum bustier of support and one big bouquet of over cigarette pants for resort in May; flowers. He added that blogs and Simons presented his couture in July. Twitter were trending overwhelmingly Asked if he might ban Horyn from in his favor. As for Horyn’s and future shows, de la Renta offered an (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] Sullivan’s assertions that de la Renta immediate no. “I’m not going to make misinterpreted what was intended as it that important.” — AMY WICKS it’s about to go down.

still. haven’t. stopped. covered. in. PIG M E N T! energetic frenetic

ELECTRIC kinetic (aesthetic) . . . ar t i stic a dream sc ene of

crimson, c y a n , emerald , ca n a ry, v i o l e t . . .

d e sig n e r dreams of another era of FOREVER sum m e r

the offi cial makeup sponsor of LONDON fashion week maccosmetics.tumblr.com