Fashion in the Making: 100 Years of Parsons (PDF)
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PARSONS THE NEW SCHOOL FOR DESIGN PERIODICALS RATE PAID 66 FIFTH AVENUE NEW YORK, NEW YORK NEW YORK, NY 10011 PERMIT NO. 760-830 VOLUMEVOLUME 23, 23,NUMBER NUMBER 5, JANUARY 7, MAY 2006 2006 THE ALUMNI MAGAZINE OF RE:D Magazine Letters to the Editor LETTER FROM THE DEAN We want to hear from you. RE:D welcomes Editor-in-Chief In this issue of RE:D, we are pleased to mark 100 years of Fashion Design at Parsons. letters to the editor regarding published Mira Jacob articles, alumni news, and suggestions If there is anything even better than being 100, it is being 100 and looking younger. Managing Editor for features. Letters may be edited for We are proud of many things about the Parsons Fashion Design program, and not the Kate Evanishyn content and/or space. Please include least of them is that America’s oldest fashion design program is one of its freshest. your year of graduation, degree com- Parsons is a consistent trendsetter in an industry that thrives on change. Alumni Relations pleted, and major. Elaine Cappiello It is a process that has not stopped in a century, and it will continue in the years to Submissions come. New tracks of study, new curricula, an MFA program for the most advanced Assistant Editor Original manuscripts, photo submissions, studies in fashion design, and an even stronger faculty are just some of the things Sarah Kricheff and/or artwork will be considered for ahead. We are committed to assuring that Parsons remains not just among the leading Creative Director publication. Unsolicited manuscripts, institutions of fashion design in the United States, but the preeminent institution: Meg Callery related materials, photography, and the gold standard of fashion education. artwork will not be returned. Designers We rarely look back: there is too much excitement to the future and besides, who Anna Ostrovskaya Address Changes has the time? But this is a special moment, and we are entitled, I think, to enjoy the Paula Giraldo Please submit address changes at: pleasures of retrospection. I am thrilled to congratulate an extraordinary department www.newschool.edu/alumni on its enduring position in design education, its astonishing list of graduates, and its Production starring role in the history of American fashion. My hearty appreciation goes out to Phoebe Berg RE:D Tim Gunn and the faculty, staff, students, and alumni on this milestone year. Parsons The New School for Design Copy Editors 66 Fifth Ave., 7th Floor Joanna Yas New York, NY 10011 Ellen Davidson [email protected] Paul Goldberger, Dean PARSONS Parsons The New School for Design USPS 760-830 www.parsons.newschool.edu/dean Volume 23, Number 7, May 2006 PARSONS is published ten times a year in September, October, November, December, January, April, May, June, July, and August by The New School 66 West 12th St. New York, NY 10011 Periodicals rate paid at New York, NY. Postmaster: Send address changes to Parsons 66 West 12th St. New York, NY 10011 above: Dean Paul Goldberger. Photo by Nick Ferrari ’03. www.parsons.newschool.edu/RE:D front and back cover: Runway shots from 2004 and 2005 Parsons Benefit and Fashion Shows. inside front cover: Detail from Jordan Dennett’s ’06 sketch for the Fashion Centennial project. For more information see page 7. CONTRIBUTORS CONTENTS LETTER FROM THE RE:DITOR features Happy 100th Birthday, Parsons Fashion Design! Need I say you 10 Fashion in the Making: 100 Years of Parsons look fabulous? Oh, it’s not just that impressive list of alumni by Stéphane Houy-Towner you’ve been wearing for the last century, or the decades of fantastic fashion you’ve given us, or even your exotic, Paris- 16 A Century of Iconic Parsons Fashion meets-New York history. Everyone knows it takes more than a Illustrations by Richard Rosenfeld ’67 splashy past to make it in the fashion industry, and what has kept you a cut above the rest is your ability to roll with the run- 18 Making It Work: Tim Gunn ways, change with the times, and take a good risk when you see carmela spinelli is the associate chair stéphane houy-towner is a research by June Weir of the Fashion Design Department. She associate with the Metropolitan it. To celebrate, we’ve put together a very special issue of RE:D, has worked for such luxury companies Museum of Art’s Costume Institute and 22 Hot Shots: Photography and Fashion Collaborate replete with all sorts of goodies, including stunning sketches as Saks Fifth Avenue and LVMH Moët a fashion and accessories scholar. He is by Michelle Bogre from faculty member Richard Rosenfeld ’67 (page 16), an inter- Hennessy-Louis Vuitton. She has a mas- the co-curator of the museum’s exhibi- ter’s degree in the history of decorative tion Rara Avis: Selections from the Iris view with the ever-charming Fashion Design Chair Tim Gunn arts from the Cooper-Hewitt, National Barrel Apfel Collection, and has been a news at parsons (page 18), and the student sketches of now-famous alumni, as Design Museum and Parsons The New contributing editor to Elle Décor and School for Design. Grolier’s The New Book of Knowledge. 5 Oscar de la Renta honored . Illustration takes discovered in the archives by Fashion’s tenacious Associate on Current magazine . Fashion provides Chair Carmela Spinelli (page 30). Parsons retrospective . Design and Technology In fact, it has been such a joy to put together this (and every!) collaborates with Comedy Central issue of RE:D that it is with very mixed feelings that I announce my own departure from Parsons. For the last three years, I have profiles had one of the best jobs imaginable—creating a publication that 30 RE:TROSPECT Commemorative Stamps reflects the intelligence, vitality, caring, and beauty that all of by Carmela Spinelli you put into the world on a daily basis. The experience has been Faculty member june weir was the richard rosenfeld ’67 is a faculty nothing short of incredible, and I thank you for it. former vice president of Fairchild member in the Fashion Design 32 Giving: Donna Karan ’68 Publications, where she served as both Department. He has worked as a fash- 33 RE:SPOND Peter Som ’97 As for the future—keep sending Parsons news of your many fashion editor and assistant publisher ion artist at Women’s Wear Daily and achievements and projects! In return, RE:D’s incomparable staff of Women’s Wear Daily and W. She has as an illustrator for a number of depart- in every issue also worked as the news editor for ment stores, including Neiman Marcus. of editors, writers, and designers will continue to amaze you with Vogue, the deputy style editor for the His work has appeared in Vogue, 1 Letter from the Dean beautiful issues. New York Times magazine, the execu- Seventeen, Brides, the New York Times, tive fashion editor for Harper’s Bazaar, and WWD Illustrated: 1960s–1990s 2 Letter from the RE:DITOR Best, and contributing editor for Mirabella. (Fairchild Books & Visuals, 2003). 4 You Tell Us: Letters to the RE:DITOR 8 RE:TINA Making a Scene in New York 24 RE:COGNITION Reunion Mira Jacob, Editor-in-Chief 25 RE:CORD Class Notes LOOKING FOR THE NEXT RE:DITOR Mira Jacob’s departure from RE:D leaves a hole in our staffing as well as our hearts. If you are an experienced Chair and faculty member of the matthew sussman is an eclectic editor with sensational design sensibility, an ability Department of Photography, photographer, director, and producer michelle bogre is a photographer, whose work has ranged from interna- to connect people and ideas, a flair for writing, and writer, and intellectual property lawyer. tional documentary television to make- this page: Fashion Design Department graduate Cara Enteles’s ’87 painting is a passion for Parsons, we’d like to hear from you. Her work has appeared in numerous over reality shows. He is currently on featured in her exhibition Spider Stories currently running in West Palm Beach, FL. magazines and books. One of her staff at The New School. Details of this job description can be found at: www.caraenteles.com photographs is featured in the show www.newschool.edu/admin/hr/joblist.htm. The Way We Worked currently on display at the National Archives in Washington, D.C. you tell us news at parsons Letters to the RE:DITOR In the last issue we asked, “Which fashion designer Spotlight on 2006 Benefit Honoree has had the most influence on your work?” Oscar de la Renta Before David Chu, founder of Elsa Schiaparelli has had the Nautica, left the company most influence on my work. From high-end couture to affordable jeans and linens to launch his own signature She stands alone as an innova- to perfume, Oscar de la Renta’s expansive reach has label, I had the opportunity tor and visionary way beyond had a significant impact on the world of fashion for to work very closely with him. her time. She transcended the the past 40 years. Well known for his luxurious, femi- Chu was committed to drawing traditional approach to design nine, fairytale-like designs worn by “ladies who lunch” inspiration from authentic by pushing the boundaries and top celebrities, de la Renta has dressed the likes sources through research. He to the max, whether through of Sarah Jessica Parker and Beyoncé, as well as First was also devoted to simple, construction, form, or textiles. Ladies Laura Bush, Hillary Clinton, Nancy Reagan, and functional design. From him, It still remains important for Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis.