WWDTUESDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY

Arnault’s Culture Club the strongest links with artists — and for the longest time,” the By MILES SOCHA chairman and chief executive offi cer of LVMH Moët Louis — The convergence of fashion and art — plus a dash of Vuitton told WWD in an interview on the eve of the opening event, political intrigue — reached a new apex in Paris on Monday night which was peopled by fashion designers, Hollywood actresses, with the offi cial inauguration of the Foundation. politicians, artists and LVMH brass. Luxury titan beamed proudly as he and French While known as one of Europe’s most formidable entrepreneurs, President François Hollande pushed a button to light up the new Arnault waved off business talk to delve into one of his favorite -designed structure, which glowed like some futuristic subjects — creativity — the fuel behind the $40 billion luxury sailing ship amidst the parkland in which it is set. empire he constructed in roughly one generation. It was a moment to savor for Arnault, a personal project of art “Since arrived at LVMH, I thought it would be a good idea to sponsorship, and a gift to that he named after his biggest pay homage to the creative realms that have brought economic and most profi table brand. success to our business, Vuitton in particular,” he said. “Louis Vuitton is the brand in our group that probably has SEE PAGE 4

From left: Raf Simons, Marion Cotillard, Bernard Arnault, Michelle Williams and Nicolas Ghesquière at the opening of the in Paris Monday night.

PHOTO BY STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE 2 WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2014 WWD.COM New CEOs at Bottega, Kane THE BRIEFING BOX Alexandre de Brettes and will also report to Bizzarri. IN TODAY’S WWD By JOELLE DIDERICH De Brettes will stay at the company to oversee the hand over before taking up another position within the group. PARIS — has appointed new chief executive A graduate of Manchester Metropolitan officers at Bottega Veneta and Christopher Kane as University, Crook joined Stella McCartney in 2004 part of a management reshuffle in its luxury divi- as merchandise and business development direc- sion unveiled earlier this year, WWD has learned. tor and was appointed vice president in 2009. She Carlo Alberto Beretta will take over as ceo of subsequently acted as a strategic brand and busi-

Bottega Veneta effective Jan. 7. A graduate from ness consultant to the British Fashion Council and WALKER Bocconi University in Milan, Beretta joins the fash- leading fashion brands for two years.

ion from Ermenegildo Zegna, where he has Bizzarri trumpeted Crook’s strong merchandis- ELYSE

spent the last 11 years, most recently as retail de- ing and commercial skills and said her expertise in FOR velopment director. Beretta previously worked at business development acquired over the years would

Valentino and La Rinascente. help the Kane brand realize its expansion potential. IMAGES He will report to Marco Bizzarri, the former ceo of “I would like to warmly thank Alexandre de Bottega Veneta, who in July took up his new post as Brettes for his dedication to Christopher Kane and ceo of Kering’s luxury couture and leather goods divi- for having successfully accomplished the integration

sion, based in Cadempino, Switzerland, where Kering of the brand within the Kering group,” he added. Shay Mitchell at the KEMPIN/GETTY has a centralized logistics and distribution hub. As part of the reorganization of the luxury divi- Pink Party in Los As expected, Bizzarri will remain president of sion, revealed in April, former Louis Vuitton execu- Angeles. For more, JASON Bottega Veneta in order to ensure a smooth transi- tive Albert Bensoussan heads Kering’s luxury see WWD.com. BY tion, Kering said. watches and jewelry division. PHOTO Bizzarri said he’s confident Beretta “has the Both report to François-Henri Pinault, chairman skills and experience necessary to build on the and ceo of Kering, and sit on its executive commit- work done so far and to continue supporting the tee. Gucci, the cash cow of the French conglomerate growth of the brand globally.” and its largest property, operates separately from The convergence of fashion and art — plus a dash of political Meanwhile, Sarah Crook has been named ceo of those divisions under Patrizio di Marco, its chair- intrigue — reached a new apex in Paris Monday night with the Christopher Kane, effective Nov. 17. She succeeds man and ceo since 2009. official inauguration of the Louis Vuitton Foundation. PAGE 1

Kering has appointed new chief executive officers at Bottega Veneta and Christopher Kane as part of a Rayden to Retire From Justice & Brothers management reshuffle. PAGE 2

MICHAEL RAYDEN, president and chief executive shops are called Justice & Brothers, of which there Primark will expand its entry into the northeastern U.S. officer of the Justice & Brothers girls and boys sub- are 216, including in Canada. Brothers was market via retail space in seven Sears stores. PAGE 8 sidiary of Ascena Retail Group Inc., will retire at launched online in 2011 and in stores in 2012. the end of January. Rayden, a 45-year veteran of retailing, led Justice for L’Oréal USA signed a definitive agreement to purchase Carol’s Herbert Mines Associates has begun a search for the last 19 years. Justice was formerly called Limited Daughter, the urban beauty brand founded by Lisa Price in her a new president and ceo of the division. Too, which Rayden shut down to convert to Justice. Brooklyn kitchen in 1993. PAGE 8 David Jaffe, Ascena’s president and ceo, said “For me, the time is right to shift my attention

Monday that it was completely Rayden’s decision to from fashion to family, allowing a new generation Cara Delevingne launched the “Cara D for DKNY” capsule retire. Rayden is 66. Jaffe said internal and external of talent to step into the spotlight and confidently PAGE 8 candidates to succeed Rayden will be considered. lead the business into its next phase of growth and collection in London on Saturday. Justice & Brothers operates about 1,006 stores. success,” said Rayden. He added that the mission Most are called Justice because they don’t house at Justice has been to help boys and girls feel confi- Value Retail, the developer of the nine Chic Outlet Shopping Brothers in-store shops. Those that include Brothers’ dent and express themselves. — DAVID MOIN Villages in Europe, celebrated the grand opening of its first outlet mall in China. PAGE 9

Nilit said it has signed an agreement to acquire Invista’s Americana, Brazil, manufacturing site. PAGE 10 VF Boosts North Face, Vans Ad Spend full-year guidance, an increase in gross margin to Boontheshop has a new 27,000-square-foot flagship in Seoul, By ARNOLD J. KARR 48.3 percent of sales from 47.6 percent a year ago South Korea, designed by Peter Marino. PAGE 10 and an increase in inventories — 4 percent to $1.82 VF CORP. is padding the fourth-quarter marketing billion — that was smaller than its revenue increase. A new look and a series of flush collectors gave a big boost to budgets of its The North Face and Vans brands as it Shares, down on the initial disclosure of results, the 12th edition of the . PAGE 10 looks to finish the year on a high note. ended the day up 0.3 percent at $63.96. The brands, two of five in the VF portfolio with VF has said throughout 2014 that it expected The three-day London Collections: Men has been transformed annual sales in excess of $1 billion, will receive to see second-half improvement in its jeanswear into a four-day event due to the rising number of shows, $10 million in additional marketing spending dur- business, revenues for which declined 2.5 percent presentations, parties and events. PAGE 11 ing the fourth quarter as the company’s Outdoor to $1.3 billion in the first six months of the year. and Action Sports coalition, responsible for about Jeanswear revenues were up 0.4 percent to $750.4 58 percent of VF’s year-to-date revenues, zeroes in million, and ahead 2 percent at constant curren- Julia Cumming may be deepening her role with Saint Laurent on a double-digit increase for the year. OAS, which cy, in the third quarter, although segment profit and could end up in its spring ads being shot in Paris now, also includes Timberland and other brands, grew dropped 0.8 percent. While Wrangler revenues, de- according to sources. PAGE 11 10.6 percent to $2.18 billion in the third quarter, rived principally from men and in the mass chan- and the unit’s 12.9 percent increase in operating nel, rose 3 percent, the Lee brand, more reliant ON WWD.COM income helped offset profitability declines in the on females and midtier stores, saw revenues con- Jeanswear, Sportswear and Contemporary units. tract 1 percent, with a “low-double-digit decline in EYE: Elyse Walker’s 10th and final Pink Party at Santa Monica While The North Face, Vans and Timberland tal- the Americas region partially offset by 30 percent Airport drew a cast of Los Angeles personalities, including lied strong revenue growth of 9, 12 and 15 percent, growth in Asia Pacific and a low-single-digit in- Shay Mitchell, Jennifer Garner, Maria Shriver, Katherine respectively, those figures represented a sequential crease in European sales,” the company said. Schwarzenegger and Molly Sims. For more, see WWD.com. decline from the stronger results — increases of 11, “The Lee business is anchored in the midtier 21 and 19 percent — reported for the second quarter. channel and its three biggest customers are Kohl’s, Eric Wiseman, chairman, president and chief exec- J.C. Penney and Sears, all of which have their utive officer of V F, explained that much of the decline challenges,” Wiseman said. “We’ve been combat- FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA was attributable to wholesale orders being pushed into ting that with innovative new products, like the @ WWD.com/social the fourth quarter from the third, while direct-to-con- Modern Series [for men] and the Curvy Fit series sumer revenues rose 32 percent at The North Face, 18 [for women] launched earlier this year and the TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS percent at Vans and 6 percent at Timberland. Heavenly Touch line just coming out now. The busi- [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. “This might concern me if I saw weakness in our ness isn’t promotional where we have new, innova- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. stores,” he told WWD, “but this is clearly about our tive products — and these are selling at full price.” VOLUME 208, NO. 83. TUESDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays wholesale partners.” Wiseman noted that VF does about 11 percent of and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. 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The Art of Arnault {Continued from page one} symbol of progress’’ that would become — coup for Arnault, who surmounted con- ner for 300 in the building’s auditorium Monday’s christening marked the sum- like the and the I.M. Pei pyra- siderable opposition from environmen- capped off with a 2011 Château d’Yquem, mit of Arnault’s decade-long quest to con- mid at the — an additional attrac- talists and neighborhood groups to con- one of Arnault’s many holdings. struct an art museum in Paris, and in a tion in the most visited city in the world. struct the 118,400-square-foot structure What draws artists to fashion? Gehry building that already has won praise He also trumpeted the fact that in the Bois de Boulogne, a vast park on “Fashion is very attractive,” Lagerfeld from the world’s architectural critics. France has a legacy of welcoming art- the western edge of Paris. said in his winking fashion. “ It also illustrates how fashion and ists and creative types from all over His luxury rival and fellow art collec- was the first to understand that.” — one of France’s banner the world — apropos for a French fash- tor François Pinault, whose family con- Koons drew a parallel in the creative exports amid general economic gloom — intentions of artists and designers. “It’s have the power to attract heads of state, a process of exciting the senses, and ex- even Hollande, whose Socialist party citing the senses leads you to ideas. It and unpopular administration enjoy an I’ve always said that even in a quiet makes life more interesting,” he said. uneasy rapport with wealth, telegraphed Kapoor mused that fashion is drawn to by the 75 percent income tax that was art because it asks “elegant questions, dif- among his government’s first proposals — environment, you should question yourself. ficult questions, problematic questions.” and that has impacted Arnault, the rich- They yield “something mysterious in the est man in France. And react when everything is quiet as if it end,” he said. “Yes, we make objects, but On Monday, Hollande took a private that’s not our real purpose. What we want is tour of the exhibitions, shook hands with is not. That’s the spirit of the group. We try to create a mythological event. Great fash- Marisa Berenson and Pierre Bergé, and ion is also mythological. It’s not really about joined Arnault and Gehry onstage for to see everything with that perspective. clothes, it’s what they represent.” speeches. Also present from politics was Swedish actress , Paris mayor Anne Hidalgo and Fleur dressed in and escorted Pellerin, France’s minister of culture and — BERNARD ARNAULT, LVMH MOËT HENNESSY LOUIS VUITTON into the party by Tisci, lamented that communications, dressed in . Hollywood can at times be too reveren- “It’s a dream that became a reality,” ion giant that employs designers from trols Gucci parent Kering, abandoned tial. “Fashion is brave. It looks at the fu- Arnault said, thanking LVMH’s 120,000 England (Phoebe Philo); Italy (Givenchy’s plans to build a namesake foundation ture,” she said. employees. “They are very proud tonight.” Riccardo Tisci); Germany (’s Karl on the Île Seguin here in 2005 and de- Michelle Williams, who fronts leather Switching from his rustic, rudimen- Lagerfeld); Northern Ireland (’s camped to Venice’s Palazzo Grassi. That goods campaigns for Vuitton and took tary French to English, Gehry spoke of Jonathan Anderson); (Dior’s Raf opening upped the ante in the tit-for-tat time off from “Cabaret” on Broadway to Arnault’s intuitive approach to the proj- Simons), and America (). game of one-upmanship between two fly to Paris, mused that art brings anoth- ect. “I found him to be quite artistic in Opening to the public on Oct. 27 with prominent French entrepreneurs. er dimension to fashion: “It adds a sense the way he thinks,” the architect said. an exhibition devoted to Gehry’s oeuvre A host of blue-chip artists turned out of permanence.” While poking fun at his government’s and works by Gerhard Richter, Christian for Monday’s VIP preview, including Jeff While Arnault stressed the founda- challenges, Hollande lauded the founda- Boltanski and Bertrand Lavier also on Koons, Anish Kapoor and Sophie Calle. tion’s primary mission and focus would tion as a “crystal palace of culture” and a display, the foundation is something of a The evening culminated’’ with a din- {Continued on page 6} w21a004(5-7)a;8.indd 4 10/20/14 8:39 PM 10202014204141 WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2014 5 WWD.COM

The new Louis Vuitton Foundation in Paris. Frank Gehry, French President François Hollande and Bernard Arnault.

Sofia Coppola and Phoebe Philo

Jeff Koons and Karl Lagerfeld

ALL PHOTOS BY STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE

Setsuko Klossowska de Rola

Marisa Berenson and and Starlite Berenson

Anish Kapoor

Hélène Arnault, Bernard Arnault and Prince Albert of .

Alessandro Sartori of .

Kris Van Assche, Noomi Rapace, Riccardo Tisci, Patrick Louis Vuitton Jonathan Anderson and Pierre-Yves Roussel.

6 WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2014 ’’ The foundation arrives at turbulent er entrepreneur that made his mark on times for the luxury sector, faced with the business world. “I knew him and we The Art of Arnault morose economies and geopolitical up- shared the same philosophy: To be alert heavals, including an anticorruption to what can go wrong even in very good {Continued from page 4} “I disagree,” Arnault retorted when crackdown in China that has dampened times. I think for creative people, it’s the be contemporary art and its links to read the musing. “When we buy works demand, and mounting fears of wider same thing. Yo u should not sleep, even earlier art movements, it has joined of art, we buy them for keeps. Maybe Ebola outbreaks. when the weather is good.” the Paris cultural fray with a cool fac- some approach it differently. I think one LVMH recently reported sales in the Michael Burke, Vuitton’s chairman tor and immediate buzz, exemplified of the problems in the art world today is third quarter gained 5.7 percent to 7.39 and ceo, said affiliations with artists by Monday’s glitzy guest list and tele- precisely the fact that there is more and billion euros, or $9.8 billion, only 4 per- shake up a heritage brand and keep it graphed by its inaugural performance — more speculation on some artists, so sud- cent stripping out the impact of currency fresh. He flashed images on his smart- a series of concerts by German electronic denly you have very young artists imme- and acquisitions. phone of sketches by artist Camille music pioneers Kraftwerk, darlings of Clees Brothier commissioned by Gaston the fashion crowd. Vuitton, part of the third generation, for “The culture of France is unique be- a Vuitton perfume in the Twenties. cause it’s a culture that has a high prior- It’s a process of exciting the senses, “It positioned Vuitton as audacious, ity on the arts, more than any other place daring, pushing the limits,” Burke said. in the world in our time since Greece. So and exciting the senses leads you Artists and architects, he added, “work as a practicing artist, if you will, this is on eternity. We’re somewhere midway be- home ground,” Gehry told WWD. “They tween of-the-moment and eternity.” love us, so music, literature, art contin- to ideas. It makes life more interesting. Asked to account for the popularity of ues to be the center.” Vuitton’s collaborations with artists, like The foundation’s opening coincides — ON ARTISTS AND FASHION its 2003 blockbuster with Japanese art- with Vuitton’s 160th anniversary and with ist Takashi Murakami, he said, “an artist the arrival of its latest arty collaboration, will respect the icon, yet be transgres- with monogram handbags dreamed up by diately selling at prices that seem unrea- Ye t in a meeting room at LVMH’s sive. It’s about dancing with an icon.…We the likes of Cindy Sherman, Lagerfeld, sonable. I think it’s a sign of a malaise.” headquarters on Avenue Montaigne, the had no idea it would do the kind of busi- Rei Kawakubo, , The foundation, meanwhile, is a sym- walls lined with works by , ness it did. It was of the moment.” Marc Newson and Gehry arriving in se- bol of the values he and Vuitton hold Warhol and others, Arnault sounded san- Nicolas Ghesquière, the Vuitton lect Vuitton stores this month. dear, creativity, quality and an entrepre- guine, stressing that he prefers the thrill brand’s new artistic director of women’s Arnault noted a limited-edition hand- neurial spirit. (See question-and-answer and challenge of uncertainty to headier, collections, collaborated with Dominique bag by the Canadian architect, an off- with Arnault, page 7.) devil-may-care times. Gonzalez-Foerster and Cindy Sherman kilter design rendered in Vuitton’s iconic Arnault noted Gehry’s unworldly struc- “I’ve always said that even in a quiet during his Balenciaga years, valuing the brown and gold canvas, would be sold at ture, hulking yet lyrical, required a host of environment, you should question your- dialogue artists bring to fashion. “The the museum. engineering marvels and aerospace tech- self. And react when everything is quiet perspective they have on things brings us So has Warhol’s prediction — that all nologies to realize its sweeping panels of as if it is not. That’s the spirit of the to another dimension. They change our department stores will become museums, glass, which shroud an intricate composi- group. We try to see everything with that point of view on things, and what could and all museums will become depart- tion of stacked boxes, designed expressly perspective,” he said, mentioning the be better for fashion?” he asked. “Art has ment stores — come true? to be functional galleries. late Apple cofounder Steve’’ Jobs, anoth- taken on so many forms.”

Peter Marino Frédéric Mitterrand and Doris Brynner

Michelle Williams and

Marion Cotillard

Bernadette Chirac and Pierre Bergé

Sophie Calle Christian Boltanski and Fabrice Hyber and Bertrand Lavier Sidney and Katia Toledano WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2014 7 WWD.COM

in a generation. An entrepreneurial Architecture can be similarly inspir- Bernard Arnault in the Hall of approach was needed to surpass ing, and Ghesquière said he was pleased the Louis Vuitton Foundation. all the obstacles, and to achieve the to stage his spring show at the foundation technical feats needed to realize what earlier this month. “I see it like a ship. Frank Gehry had imagined. Something that could sail away, or fly off This project cements the morale like a spaceship,” he said. of our employees and gives them The final building — less than half the something to celebrate that transcends size of the titanium-clad Guggenheim in the usual benchmarks people talk about: Bilbao that rocketed the Spanish city’s glob- figures, revenues, fashion reviews. al profile, along with Gehry’s — was built at a cost sources pegged at north of 100 million WWD: French President François euros, or $128 million at current exchange. Hollande attended the opening. The foundation is considered the most Does that suggest the political world important new art institution to arrive in is paying more attention to the Paris since 2006, when the Quai Branly fashion business? Museum of indigenous art and civiliza- B.A.: It’s culture. It’s more than tions opened in a curving Jean Nouvel fashion. It’s more of a celebration of building near the Eiffel Tower. It is also le génie français [“French ingenuity”]. Arnault’s biggest architectural pet project It’s about creativity, the success of since 1999, when he christened the 23- a French name in the world, and story LVMH Tower in New York by French something that I am giving to France, architect . this foundation, which I think will be LVMH has a 55-year lease for the site in emblematic for Paris. Bois de Boulogne, but the landmark build- ing is effectively a “gift” to the city of Paris. WWD: Fashion and art have forged The project was unveiled in 2006, and closer ties in recent years. How do you was originally slated to open around 2010, see this relationship evolving? but was delayed due to regulatory hurdles B.A.: There is no particular link between and attempts by neighborhood and conser- the art programming at the foundation vation associations to block its construction. and fashion. Fashion is an applied art. On Monday, the only pressing debate Fashion designers are not artists — was whether the building looked better sensu stricto — but they are connected empty or full. to the world of art. They can have “I love it empty,” said Lagerfeld. “It’s a dalliances with art that are sometimes beautiful piece of sculpture.” very fruitful, but they’re temporary. It’s Gehry had a different idea: “I can’t wait to not something systematic. see it filled with art and all kinds of people.” — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS WWD: Does it surprise you that artists FROM JOELLE DIDERICH seem so willing to collaborate with fashion brands? B.A.: Some definitely have an interest in fashion, it depends on the artist. I Bernard Arnault and French think the first time I met Jeff Koons it President François Hollande unveil was at a Donna Karan show. the Louis Vuitton Foundation. WWD: Vuitton is a pioneer inviting artists to interpret its icons. What do you think of the trunk Cindy Sherman did for your monogram projects, with drawers full of fake noses and such? B.A.: I love it. I bought a trunk for myself. I think I’ll display it in my office.

WWD: Why do you think artist collaborations appeal to consumers? B.A.: Because it’s very innovative, very original. I think when something’s done in an artistic way without commercial considerations and in a very limited series, consumers are drawn in by the Behind the Vision creativity, the originality. Artists have a certain eye, and they twist things, PARIS — Visiting the Paris homage to the creative realms that producing surprising results. That’s headquarters of LVMH Moët Hennessy have brought economic success to our what attracts people. Louis Vuitton rivals a trip to a top business, Vuitton in particular. European gallery, a hulking Richard WWD: I understand you collect art Serra sculpture anchoring the WWD: Besides hosting fashion shows based on intuition and what you like, courtyard, the hallways lined with there, how else might the foundation not future investment value. Do you works by the likes of Ugo Rondinone celebrate fashion? take the same approach choosing and Mark Rothko. B.A.: This foundation is mainly designers for your heritage brands? Art is a passion for Bernard oriented towards art — with one B.A.: When you choose a designer, it’s Arnault, LVMH’s chairman and chief exception: The Louis Vuitton fashion an investment for the long term. It’s executive officer, and he spoke about show, as the foundation carries its the same with artwork. When I buy a its links to fashion, and the mission of name. But it is a foundation for art piece of art, I think to myself, I will live the new Louis Vuitton Foundation. that was not meant to be specifically with this work of art for decades. Today, — MILES SOCHA related to fashion. young designers live in a world that is changing rapidly, where communication WWD: Why did you choose to name the WWD: Do you plan to sell any fashion is instantaneous. What interests me is foundation after Vuitton, rather than products in the gift shop? taking the long-term perspective. another brand or company name? B.A.: The handbag Frank Gehry Take the example of Marc Jacobs. Bernard Arnault: Since the 19th century, designed especially for our project When we bought the company in there have been strong links between celebrating the monogram, but that’s partnership with Marc, it was doing the brand Louis Vuitton, its founders and it, no fashion products. maybe $20 million in 1998. Today, we artists — and it has endured ever since. do more than $1 billion, so it’s long We’ve participated in numerous artistic WWD: How might the museum impact term. I saw the potential with Marc, a events, world fairs, and as you know the way people perceive the Vuitton great, great designer, and now we are [Vuitton’s first artistic director] Marc brand — and you as an entrepreneur? working with him towards — in the Jacobs collaborated with many artists. B.A.: This foundation reflects next two years hopefully, if the market [Stephen Sprouse, Takashi Murakami, the values of the group, three in allows — an IPO. Richard Prince and Yayoi Kusama.] particular: Creativity, that’s obvious because this building is extremely WWD: Yo u once told shareholders WWD: Is there any parallel between the creative and a fine example of you weren’t sure people would be foundation’s mission and Vuitton’s? architectural imagination. That’s using iPhones in 20 years, but that B.A.: The mission of the foundation why I asked Frank Gehry to design they would surely still be drinking is art patronage, while the success of it. Quality is also a very important Dom Pérignon. Do you think they’ll Louis Vuitton is based on creativity value of the group, and this building be carrying luxury handbags — and — creativity coming from stylists, is a technical feat, requiring about buying art — 20 years from now? designers or even scientists developing 30 construction patents. Finally, an B.A.: I think people will need clothes, Almine Rech product compositions, as they do for entrepreneurial spirit because this and they’ll need luggage to put them and Larry Gagosian cosmetics. Since I arrived at LVMH, I company has delivered an innovative in. So I think Vuitton will still be very thought it would be a good idea to pay building to Paris, something not seen successful in 20 years. 8 WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2014 Primark to Expand in U.S. L’Oréal to Acquire Through Sears Store Sites Carol’s Daughter By JULIE NAUGHTON Craig R. Johnson, president of Customer Growth By VICKI M. YOUNG and Partners, said Primark is setting up a “distribution L’ORÉAL USA on Monday signed a definitive agreement to SAMANTHA CONTI center in New England,” adding that “Primark is both purchase Carol’s Daughter, the urban beauty brand founded fast fashion and mainstream softlines; Wal-Mart pric- by Lisa Price in her Brooklyn kitchen in 1993. The acquisi- EUROPEAN FASHION RETAILER Primark will ex- es in a department store setting doing massive vol- tion “will enable L’Oréal USA to build a new dedicated mul- pand its entry into the northeastern U.S. market via umes with huge checkout lines. Quality is not exactly ticultural beauty division,” said Frédéric Rozé, president retail space in seven Sears stores. Selfridges, but is perfectly fine for the entire family.” and chief executive officer. The lease agreements were inked between Sears Sears Holdings has from time to time leased out He declined to give further specifics of the proposed division. Holdings Corp. and Associated British Foods, the space at its sites to third parties. A Kmart store in San Both companies declined comment on the purchase parent of Primark. Six of those sites include a Diego also houses a Northgate Market, while a Sears price, although industry sources speculated that L’Oréal Sears presence utilizing a streamlined store format in Greensboro, N.C., operates with an adjacent Whole paid about $60 million to $70 million for the brand. The deal of up to 100,000 square feet of selling space. One Foods occupying some of the original Sears space. is expected to close in 30 to 45 days, Price said. of those locations will be at the Staten Island Mall. Sears said the move provides “additional revenue It seems that 2014 is the year of the acquisition for L’Oréal, The King of Prussia, Pa., store, which currently stream, drives efficiency in store operations and in- which scooped up Sayuki Custom Cosmetics and Brazil’s houses a Dick’s Sporting Goods and a Sears store, creases customer traffic.” Niely Cosméticos in September, NYX Cosmetics in June, will be the only one of the seven sites in which Investors reacted positively to the news, sending and in April Magic Holdings International Ltd., a maker of Sears will move out, leaving the site to be occupied shares of Sears up 23.1 percent to $34.96 in Nasdaq Chinese facial masks, and Decléor and Carita from Shiseido by Primark and Dick’s. trading Monday. Co. Ltd. Meanwhile, arch rival the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. is The Weston family controls ABF. It also owns Sears has been the subject of speculation over its cranking up its merger and acquisition machine, punctuated Loblaws in Canada and Selfridges in the U.K. perceived liquidity issues. Some market observers by last week’s deal to acquire artisanal fragrance maker Le Primark had already revealed plans to expand the believe it’s not a question of will Sears file for - Labo. That purchase marked the first acquisition Lauder had low-cost fashion chain to the U.S. Primark plans ruptcy, but when. Sears has disputed the speculation made in four years since buying Smashbox. to open a 70,000-square-foot store in Boston in late over its demise, noting that it has sufficient liquidity “Carol’s Daughter possesses an expertise in the multicul- 2015 on the site of a former Filene’s Basement unit. via assets such as its real estate to fund operations. tural consumer segment, a rapidly expanding market that John Bason, chief financial officer of ABF, said the Edward S. Lampert, Sears’ chief executive officer, represents an important growth opportunity in the beauty first couple of stores would open before Christmas has been moving assets around. The latest is a rights of- industry,” said Rozé, noting that the multicultural beauty di- 2015, and the King of Prussia location would be one fering for senior unsecured notes and warrants to give vision will be a part of L’Oréal’s Consumer Products Division. of them. The others will open be- existing shareholders the right Price, as well as her current management team, will stay fore Christmas 2016. Although he to purchase additional shares of on board at their current TriBeCa offices. declined to reveal all the specif- Sears Holdings’ common stock. The “I want everyone to understand I’m not going anywhere,” ics regarding locations, he said move, if subscribed, would gener- Price told WWD. “This isn’t my swan song. It really is a part- the company is targeting areas of 23.1% ate up to $625 million in proceeds nership and we will work on it together. This is the company “high footfall in a corridor that and is projected to close Dec. 1. that I’ve always wanted to partner with. We began having con- runs from metropolitan Boston RISE IN SEARS HOLDINGS CORP.’S Lampert also is chairman and chief versations several years ago and they have now come to frui- to metropolitan Baltimore, in- executive of ESL Investments, the tion. L’Oréal has a proven track record of helping established SHARE PRICE ON MONDAY. cluding New York, New Jersey, hedge fund that is the largest Sears companies achieve their full potential while staying true to the Connecticut, wider Philadelphia stakeholder with a 48.5 percent eq- core of the brand, and they have an understanding of the fu- and Washington, D.C.” uity stake. ture of multicultural beauty. With L’Oréal’s resources behind The gross area of the stores will range from 70,000 Sears chief financial officer Rob Schriesheim us, the possibilities for the brand are endless.” In addition to 100,000 square feet, while net selling space will noted on Sears’ blog that companies such as GE and to entering new distribution, the brand will also be able to range from 55,000 to 80,000 square feet. The King of Goldman Sachs have raised money through a similar strengthen its partnerships in existing doors, said Price. Prussia store will have a gross area of 100,000 square structure while navigating “through changes in their Carol’s Daughter has definitely had its ups and downs. feet. “King of Prussia is a real ‘wow’ — all of the business environment.” In May 2005, music mogul and consumer brand marketer retailers are there, and what a way for Primark to Schriesheim added that the leasing arrangement Steve Stoute put together a star-studded group of inves- get known,” Bason said. He stressed that the retail in some cases has allowed Sears to turn “unprofit- tors — including Shawn “Jay Z” Carter, Will Smith, Jada model for Primark was very much the “standalone able or unproductive space into profitable space.” Pinkett Smith, Thalia, Tommy Mottola, James Lassiter, store” and said the units would look completely dif- He also emphasized what Lampert has said in previ- Jimmy Iovine and Andrew Farkas — to catapult the growth ferent from the Sears stores. ous earnings conference calls: “Changes in consum- of the brand, which at the time was doing about $5 million Bason said the deal with Sears was a major op- er behavior are driving our vision and our actions.” in sales in about 20 doors, including a brand-owned store in portunity for Primark, “allowing us to go from one to The latest rights offering is on top of the one re- Fort Greene, Brooklyn. In 2007, Pegasus made a $50 eight stores in one fell swoop, with our choice of lo- cently revealed for Sears Canada that is expected to million investment in the brand, as well. Carol’s Daughter cations. We have made it very clear this is an impor- generate up to $380 million in proceeds. would not comment on whether or not the stars who had tant evolutionary step for Primark. The northeast of With the new Sears Holdings offering, after in- invested in 2005 are still investors in the brand. the U.S. is very fashionable and very Europe-facing. cluding all financial moves this year such as Sears Carol’s Daughter’s products are now in about 2,700 It’s a very good way for us to go.” He said the com- Canada currently in progress and the spin-off of doors, spread across specialty beauty stores such as Ulta pany would “consider” further expansion in the U.S. Lands’ End, the retailer that operates the Sears and mass retailers such as Target Corp., as well as on HSN if these stores are successful, but added it was “way and Kmart nameplates will have generated $2.07 and carolsdaughter.com, and did net sales of $27 million too early to say.” billion in liquidity. for the 12 months ending Sept. 30. Carol’s Daughter had op- erated brand-owned stores, but in April its store division, CD Stores LLC, filed a voluntary Chapter 11 petition in a Manhattan bankruptcy court, with a plan to restructure operations for two New York stores, one at 125th Street in DKNY’s #CARAvan Crosses the Pond Harlem and the other at the Atlantic Terminal in Brooklyn. The parent company, Carol’s Daughter Holdings, did not way, Delevingne changed into vari- file for bankruptcy court protection. By LISA LOCKWOOD Cara ous pieces from the “Cara D for Carol’s Daughter launched Mary J. Blige’s debut fra- Delevingne DKNY” capsule collection. grance, My Life, via HSN in July 2010, selling 72,000 bottles THE #CARAvan moved to London These appearances followed a in 24 hours. The brand’s ad campaigns were what Stoute over the weekend. previous one at Bloomingdale’s in referred to in 2011 as moving the brand into a “polyeth- On Saturday, Cara Delevingne New York on Oct. 11. Delevingne nic space” — meaning they have more than one racial launched the “Cara D for DKNY” stepped out onto the Bloomingdale’s background — and have featured Pinkett Smith, Solange capsule collection in her home- 59th Street marquee on Lexington Knowles, Selita Ebanks and Cassie. As well, in 2013, town. She made the rounds in Avenue, holding a sign with her Price partnered with Georgia-based entrepreneur Robin London, starting at Harrods, then hashtag #CaraD4DKNY to cele- D. Groover on a salon dubbed Mirror: The Hair Salon Harvey Nichols and Selfridges, brate the launch. The first 25 peo- at Carol’s Daughter. The salon is located inside Carol’s ending the day at DKNY’s London ple to prepurchase a piece from Daughter’s Manhattan flagship in Harlem. flagship store on Old Bond Street. the “Cara D for DKNY” collec- The focus on multicultural beauty will continue to ex- Throughout the day, tion got VIP access to take a selfie pand. Nine million people reported belonging to more than Delevingne tweeted clues under with Delevingne, and the first 100 one racial group in the 2010 Census, comprising about 3 per- the hashtag #CaraD4DKNY and people to purchase from the collec- cent of the total population of the U.S. Ninety-two percent #CARAvan as to where she was tion on Oct. 11 got an autographed of people who reported multiple races provided exactly two headed each step of the way. poster by Delevingne and a limited- races in 2010; white and black was the largest multiple-race Delevingne took a photo with edition #CaraD4DKNY tote bag. combination. An additional 8 percent of the two-or-more-rac- the Harrods signature “green The 15 pieces in the collec- es population reported three races and less than 1 percent men,” did a beat-boxing and break- tion feature many of the model’s reported four or more races. Three-quarters of multiple-race dancing session at Harvey Nichols favorites, from a sweat suit to combinations were comprised of four groups in 2010: white and took selfies at Selfridges. tank tops, leather bombers and and black (1.8 million), white and “some other race” (1.7 mil- During the final stop at the DKNY a parka. Most of the pieces are lion), white and Asian (1.6 million), and white and American store, Delevingne was presented unisex, and retail prices range Indian or Alaska Native (1.4 million). This is compared with with a custom cake representing M. BENETT/GETTY DAVID IMAGES FOR DKNY from $70 for beanies and $150 for U.S. Census data from 2005 to 2006, which noted that 5 per- her favorite piece in the collec- T-shirts to a $735 leather motorcy- cent of American children under age four were identified as

tion — a bomber jacket. Along the PHOTO BY cle jacket with removable sleeves. multiracial, compared with 2 percent of people ages 25 to 29. WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2014 9 WWD.COM “Wise brands are and should be fundamentally conflicted Value Retail’s Suzhou Village Arrives in Changing China about outlet distribution. It is perhaps the best we have ever partly motivated by a realization consumer is going to be a hard- not only a necessary evil, but it By LARA FARRAR done, and the reaction from that brands that have come to fought battle. There is no easy ride is the least damaging of the op- consumers is better than we had China and expanded with break- for brands in the current climate. tions available,” the executive SUZHOU, China — Value Retail, hoped. Brands and people who neck speed are having to take a Customers are more aware. They said. “The Internet is a disaster. the developer of the nine Chic serve brands should have a very massive step back and reevaluate are more demanding.” If they are seen to be dumping Outlet Shopping Villages in productive, profitable business their business operations in order He added: “The biggest fail- online, they are destroying their Europe, celebrated the grand here. But it is not happening to appeal to a more savvy Chinese ing for brands today is they don’t full price point positioning.” opening of its first outlet mall in seamlessly. It takes real effort.” consumer seeking not only first- have the right human infrastruc- Malkin said brands will be China amid what the company’s As a sign of the complexities rate products from Western mar- ture in place, and they don’t successful in Suzhou Village chief executive officer said is be- of the Chinese market, in par- kets but also shopping experi- have joined-up leadership and and other outlet centers if they coming one of the most complex ticular protecting brand equity ences above and beyond what may management strategies.” maintain consistency. “If they markets for retailers worldwide. while avoiding what Malkin calls even be on offer in other markets. The digital environment in are operating coherently, if Suzhou Village outlet center, “In China, to be relevant, you China is also game-changing, they are stocked coherently which had its grand opening last have to be global. To be global you he said. The growth of e-com- and if their products are under- week after a soft opening in May, have to be in China, and in China, merce combined with product stood, brands are already easily is located in Suzhou, a city about you have to become more sophisti- knowledge obtained online achieving beyond sales expecta- an hour outside of Shanghai. Value cated and mature in a way that the and shared via social media, as tions in early trading,” he said. Retail will open a second location market isn’t,” Malkin said. “ Yo u well as the evolving concept of “The challenge is for brands next year adjacent to the now-un- have to have a detail focus and online-to-offline retail whereby how to address the consumer’s der-construction Shanghai Disney an execution focus. To be a global brands leverage the Internet to expectations successfully.” Resort. Around 1,000 guests attend- brand, without being commoditized drive traffic to brick-and-mortar In terms of future openings in ed the Suzhou opening on Thursday in execution, delivery in the cre- locations or vice versa, presents China, Malkin said the focus will night, which featured a perfor- ation of experience, that is the un- additional challenges. be on first-tier hospitality des- mance curated by David Quadrio, a known puzzle, and we are all facing “China is the most interesting tinations. Suzhou, for example, Shanghai-based curator and critic. it now in real time for the first time.” story in retail right now,” Malkin receives 90 million domestic and According to Scott Malkin, TACON Malkin said what he sees in said. “It is the place where the re- foreign tourists annually, Malkin founder and chairman of Value Scott DAVE the Chinese market right now lationship between digital retail said. Future projects will not Retail plc, between 10,000 and Malkin is well-established brands that and physical retail will be defined be catered to regional tastes or 20,000 visitors have come to once assumed top-line growth sooner and more decisively than spending habits, but instead be Suzhou Village weekly since its PHOTO BY would continue indefinitely, but anywhere in the West. To me, China globally focused because that is soft opening. Around 50 of the 70 “the commoditization” of brands, are now having to completely is the laboratory. Chinese consum- what Chinese consumers expect. or so brands slated to have stores Value Retail has scaled back ini- rethink their operational model ers are leapfrogging brands.” “The barriers to successful there have opened, with the re- tial plans to open around a dozen alongside newer entrants who As for retailers’ willingness projects are higher and frankly mainder expected to be open by other shopping centers across are taking a more cautious ap- to open in outlet malls, Malkin the cost and complexity of run- December. So far, average con- China, instead now planning to proach yet are, for the most said there is still some reluc- ning something this sophisti- sumer spend has been higher open up to six new locations in part, achieving sales increases. tance in China, as there had cated and this special are very than that of Bicester Village, Value coming years. “When you had top-line growth been in the U.K. when Bicester high,” he said. “So you are only Retail’s outlet center located near “Retail in China is not only without thinking too hard about Village opened. There is a grow- going to do it where you can ex- London. Brands that have opened a big opportunity, but a very de- it because you were able to open ing realization that dumping ecute it and get rewarded for ex- in Suzhou Village range from Kate manding opportunity at present,” new stores in a market like China, excess stock online is posing ecuting it. Suzhou Village is the Spade and Michael Kors to Brooks Malkin said. “Nobody is suicidal you didn’t focus too much on your significant threats to brand eq- future in China. I think the basic Brothers and Valentino. but nobody is walking along smil- individual consumer. Yo u focused uity whereby if consumers see a logic is correct, and if we work “The experience has funda- ing, saying this is just great. I don’t on flow,” he said. “I think where brand discounted online enough really hard we can keep up with mentally been very positive,” think it is going to get any easier.” the market is now for an indefinite in China, demand for its prod- the changes. The model allows to Malkin said. “Suzhou Village is This decision was perhaps period is that every new full-priced ucts could be impacted. be able to adapt if we work at it.”

Cushman & Wakefield is proud to announce that Laura Pomerantz has joined the firm as Vice Chairman and Head of Strategic Accounts

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w21a009a;7.indd 9 10/20/14 6:53 PM 10202014185442 10 WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2014 Boontheshop Frieze Art Fair Thrives Amid Slowdown enter the market, but overall this week saw a sea change in the By LORELEI MARFIL sales are strong and most gal- market. With major new bench- lery salespersons I know still marks set, the market is now in Opens in Seoul LONDON — A new look and a se- meet new collectors at the fair.” a whole new place,” said Alex ries of flush collectors gave a big According to figures re- Branczik, head of contemporary boost to the 12th edition of the leased by Frieze on Monday, the art, Sotheby’s London. Frieze art fair, which appeared Anton Kern gallery sold a Mark Kurt Mueller, director of By SHARON EDELSON to be untarnished by a widening Grotjahn sculpture for $500,000, David Kordansky, an L.A.-based European economic slowdown. while at the 303 Gallery, a work gallery that showed works by art- BOONTHESHOP, which sells brands such as Alexander The four-day fair, which by Alicja Kwade was sold for an ists including Anthony Pearson, McQueen, Givenchy, Mary Katrantzou and Victoria Beckham, closed Saturday, got a facelift estimated price of 30,000 euros, Evan Holloway and Ricky has a new 27,000-square-foot flagship in Seoul, designed by this year from Universal Design or $38,338 at current exchange. Swallow, described the fair as Peter Marino. Studio, an architecture and de- At Gavin Brown’s Enterprise, six steady and confident. “I would The store consists of two angular, white marble buildings, one sign firm whose client list in- with 16,000 square feet of space and the other with 11,000 square cludes Ace Hotel, LVMH Moët feet, connected by glass bridges and situated on one of the coun- Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the try’s tallest mountains. Crinkled silver, which covers the valet Victoria & Albert Museum and parking area, looks like gold when it reflects , Marino the National Gallery. said. “It’s as shocking, when compared to traditional Korean Some 162 galleries from 25 buildings, as the Guggenheim Museum was when it opened in countries took part in the fair, 1959 on ,” the architect added, referring to the spi- which also showcased Frieze ral structure designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. The Boontheshop Masters, the Sculpture Park, buildings’ square footage excludes the restaurants and executive Frieze Projects, Focus and Live, offices Marino built above the store. a conceptual performance plat- “The store has wonderful volumes, all different ceiling form. The latest edition of the heights,” Marino said, noting that building A is comprised of two fair was sponsored by compa- levels and building B has three. nies including Deutsche Bank, Marino is known for designing the global flagships of luxury Gucci, Alexander McQueen and brands such as Chanel, Céline, Dior and Ermenegildo Zegna in the Selfridges. Gap also created a U.S., Europe and Asia. Marino’s business in China “kept me from White Space exhibit and lounge Artist Nick Mauss created a going bankrupt during the recession,” he said. But the Chinese, who that displayed 30 T-shirts and stage for ballet performances. hold the title of the biggest luxury shoppers in the world, have reined sweatshirts created with designs in their spending. For the from previous issues of Visionaire. first time, the growth of the “The fair feels much say people know what luxury market fell into neg- Renderings of more airy and is more FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE they’re looking for, and ative territory to minus 1 the exterior of a pleasure to walk there haven’t been any percent, according to Bain and interior of through. Also the qual- WWD.com/ surprises so far. People & Co.’s 2014 annual global Boontheshop. ity of work on view has fashion-news. know what they want luxury study. improved, which was and they come for it.” “All the brands are com- about time,” said Rachael Barrett, Sawicka said one of ing here,” Marino said of founder of Three Sixty Degrees, the reasons the market Korea. “I have a commis- an art consulting firm. has remained vibrant is sion to build a new Chanel The designers brought lighting because people collect [flagship] in South Korea.” levels down so that people could A sculpture for different reasons. The average household feel more comfortable in a pre- by Jaume “I think we have a lot net-adjusted dispos- dominantly white environment, Plensa. of established collectors able income in Korea is carpeted the floors and created at this fair with signifi- $18,035 a year, according “a clean geometry” overall, in the cant collections, doing it to the Organization for words of Joanna Stella Sawicka, portraits by Ella Kruglyanskaya over a long period of time. There Economic Cooperation deputy director of Frieze. were sold for about $50,000 each. are always people who are new to and Development’s Better “There have been more inter- Galerie Perrotin reported the market who are always invest- Life Index, and the richest national visitors than I expected that a KAWS sculpture was sold ed in a quicker return — the specu- 20 percent of the popula- to see, and a large part of that for $300,000, while at Galerie lators — and that happens in every tion earns almost six times is because the quality of the Thaddaeus Ropac, a work by environment. I think the hype of as much as the bottom exhibitions at galleries outside Erwin Wurm was sold at an es- every year has receded somewhat, 20 percent. Seoul, South the fair is pretty high. Overall in timated cost of 250,000 euros, but still there are very significant Korea’s capital, has a pop- the market, collectors are much or $319,491. Sprüth Magers sold prices being paid for very young ulation of more than 20 more open and interested now George Condo’s “Portrait With artists. That is still a symptom of million people. in artists from all over the world Green Shapes” for $500,000. the market that we are in.” It’s the top 20 percent and with varied cultural back- Sotheby’s in London re- , whose gal- that Boontheshop is tar- grounds, especially when these ported its strongest ever Frieze lery showcased works by artists geting with a long list of artists focus on universally rel- week for auctions: It sold Piero including Wolfgang Tillmans, AA designers. Launched in evant issues from an interesting Manzoni’s Achrome for $20.2 Bronson and General Idea, said 2000, Boontheshop and or different perspective.” million — the highest price for she’s witnessed “continued com- Boontheshop men’s stores Barrett said that from her any work sold at auction dur- mitment” to those three artists are located in Cheongdam perspective the art market has ing the week — and noted that and to buying contemporary art in Seoul’s luxury district. not been affected by the shaky Chinese participation was up alongside older works. “I’m seeing Boontheshop, which calls fiscal climate. “I think a lot of 125 percent at the evening sale this mixture, people are not only itself “a niche for fash- new collectors may have now of contemporary art. looking at the young work, there ionistas who allow no become a little more careful in “This week, the stage belonged seems to be a distinct mixture, compromise of standards terms of what they consider pur- to Italian art. We’ve seen demand those who have been enduring, for any vulgar demands chasing, and at what level they grow over the last decade, but with those who are emerging.” of the passing fad,” is owned by Korean de- partment store company Shinsegae, which features Nilit Signs Deal for Invista Site in Brazil Boontheshop in-store boutiques at three locations. The stores are Shinsegae Centum City in Busan, which was global nylon 6.6 manufacturing Trerotola added that Invista named the world’s largest department store by the By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN operations. South America in Apparel remains committed to Book of World Records in 2009; Shinsegae Main Jung-gu in cen- general, and Brazil in particu- Brazil and this transaction will tral Seoul, Korea’s first department store when it opened in 1930, NILIT, a manufacturer of nylon lar, both represent a key oppor- allow the company to focus its and Shinsegae Gangnam in an affluent Seoul neighborhood. for apparel and thermoplastic tunity for Nilit. We have been energy in Brazil on its growing Shinsegae department stores carry brands such as Burberry, applications, said Sunday it has active in this market since the Lycra spandex business. “We Lanvin, Tiffany & Co. and Van Cleef & Arpels. signed an agreement to acquire early Nineties and have devel- are making very significant There’s also &Company, Boontheshop’s lower-priced concept Invista’s Americana, Brazil, oped an excellent reputation investments in our Paulínia, with a freestanding store in Jung-gu that features brands such as manufacturing site with intent for quality and service, with a Brazil, spandex manufacturing Maison Kitsuné, Opening Ceremony, Sacai, Sophie Hulme and to continue the site’s operations. growing number of active cus- operation and in marketing ini- Brian Lichtenberg. The companies expect the tomers. We plan to increase tiatives in Brazil,” he said. Shinsegae’s businesses are not all upscale, however. In 1993, transaction to close in the fourth our…capacity and to reinforce Nilit is an integrated nylon the company opened Korea’s first discount store, E-Mart, and in quarter of 2014, pending neces- our local presence.” 6.6 business engaged worldwide 2006 bought Wal-Mart’s ailing Korean business. sary regulatory approvals. Terms Dave Trerotola, president of in fibers for the textile industry “It is unlike any other place in the world,” Marino said of of the transaction were not pub- Invista’s Apparel & Advanced and engineering plastics for the Korea. “It’s exhilarating. My work is still mostly coming from licly disclosed, as Nilit and Textiles unit, said, “We believe automotive and electrical in- Asia — Hong Kong and Singapore — but it’s also coming from Invista are both privately held. the Americana site’s nylon 6.6 dustries. Based in Israel, it has places like Myanmar.” Fabio Kahn, managing direc- operations will enhance Nilit’s an international customer base, Shinsegae will “watch Boontheshop, and if it works, they’ll tor of Nilit’s Fibers Division, global manufacturing presence with offices and production consider other locations,” said Marino, whose last design for a said, “In addition to our sites in and we wish them well as the sites in Italy, the U.S., Germany, multibrand retailer was the Madison Avenue the U.S., China and Israel, this Americana site opens a new France, Latin America, Asia flagship in the early Nineties. acquisition complements Nilit’s chapter in its history.” Pacific and China. WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 21, 2014 11 WWD.COM

open a brick-and-mortar site in Toronto to crowdfunding to finance her current on Nov. 13. The company has had pop-up label’s expansion. Emanuel has launched FASHION SCOOPS shops and a showroom in the past. The a page on the site Crowdcube.com, in store allows customers to meet with style a bid to raise 750,000 pounds, or $1.2 advisers by appointment. It will also house million, which represents 22.7 percent of a Stumptown Coffee Roasters café and a the equity in the business, that will add to ONE MORE FOR THE BOYS: London with the performance wear designer full-service barbershop. The plan is for private investment to fund the relaunch Collections: Men just got bigger. for the new label. Gamers will spot the store to be open seven days a week, of her Art of Being label (the designer The British Fashion Council has Terez’ take on Odus the owl, Jelly Fish, with a space at 2,600 square feet that more lost the right to design under her own transformed the three-day event into a Lollipop Heads, Lemon Drops and Gum than doubles its other showroom site. name to an investor in the Nineties). four-day one due to the rising number Squares. In addition to the leggings, The start-up last month closed on a The designer has also taken on of shows, presentations, parties and once skating skirts and skating dresses Series B funding round of $15 million. Andrew Marshall as chief executive officer. events. The fall 2015 are introduced, they, Frank & Oak, which targets men in the Marshall, a management veteran who shows will run from Jan. too, will feature Candy creative fields, was founded by Ethan has held posts at Gucci Group, Dunhill 9 to 12. Topman Design Crush-inspired patterns Song in 2012. The operation is a vertical and Montblanc, recently served as ceo of will begin the week with and colors. one and there is a new collection every developing brands at Labelux and before an opening brunch at Candy Crush Saga month. — VICKI M. YOUNG that was ceo of Links of London. “My big, The Hospital Club in has a massive fan base big dream is to create a luxury brand Covent Garden. The to draw from for its SAUNDERS’ SPECS: Jonathan Saunders has and commercialize on the fact that I was provisional schedule is new apparel. As of inked a five-year deal with the Australian known, globally, albeit through Diana’s set to be published on November of last year, manufacturer Sunshades Eyewear to dress,” said Emanuel. The designer, who Nov. 10. For all those it had reportedly been produce a line of sunglasses. “This is launched Art of Being in 2005, had in making travel plans, Pitti installed 500 million important in terms of increasing the past taken on investment Uomo starts Jan. 13. So times across Facebook, our product lines and reaching FOR MORE from angel investors, but said much for a travel day. iOS and Android an aspirational customer,” SCOOPS, SEE that crowd-funding would — LORELEI MARFIL devices. The match- the designer told WWD, enable the company to “plan three puzzle video game adding the sunglasses would WWD.com. ahead.” Marshall said the KING’S NEW CANDY CRUSH: was released in April have global distribution. He label’s incarnation would How and to what degree 2012 for Facebook and described the initial encounter span a bespoke collection, Candy Crush fans dress The Candy Crush leggings from then as a mobile app in with Sunshades as a “meeting of minds” signature designs — which can be to play in the privacy the Zara Terez Collection. November of that same and praised the company’s “innovative customized — and ready-to-wear. “The of their own homes is a year. By March 2013, it approach” to materials and the quality main investment is to put this team vision probably best left there as well. knocked off FarmVille 2 as the most of its product. The 29-piece collection together,” said Marshall. He also noted But now the app’s fans can dress the popular game on Facebook. will land in stores in February and will that the label is likely to extend into part in printed leggings from the Zara — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG incorporate Saunders’ love of color accessories and license opportunities, Terez Collection: Candy Crush. King, and print. The rounded “Max” frames, such as fragrance and eyewear. the creator of the mobile gaming app GOING BRICK AND MORTAR: Men’s online an aviator-inspired style, appeared on The funding launched Oct. 12, and so Candy Crush Saga, has teamed up apparel brand Frank & Oak is set to his spring 2015 catwalk in London. One far almost 30,000 pounds, or $48,000 has version has black metal frames and blue been pledged, with until the end of this lenses, while another has retro gold year left to achieve the label’s target. frames and dark amber lenses. Prices Investors can pledge 10 pounds, or $16, 18-year-old Julia Cumming, vocalist and start at $310. — JULIA NEEL through to 25,000 pounds, or $40,200 and MEMO PAD bassist of the Brooklyn-based band above. Marshall said the second phase Sunflower Bean, of which Nick Kivlen, 19, FASHION CROWD: Elizabeth Emanuel, the of the investment, taking the funding to and Jacob Faber, 19, are also members. designer who’s best known for creating 1.5 million pounds, or $2.4 million, will HEDI’S NEW GIRL?: It’s well-documented Cumming, a 5-foot, 11-inch beauty born Princess Diana’s wedding dress with enable the label to expand into retail that Hedi Slimane has a thing for rock ’n’ and raised in Manhattan, has had a her ex-husband David in 1981, has turned next year. — NINA JONES rollers. storied professional musical career, and it didn’t take long before Slimane Julia caught on: He tapped her to walk his Cumming Saint Laurent show for the past two seasons. Sources said Cumming may be deepening her role with the brand and could end up in its spring ads being shot in Paris now. Whatever happens, a mystery brand is certainly keeping a tight rein on Cumming. WWD last week interviewed the members of Sunflower Bean for a feature and photo shoot but the shoot was canceled at the last minute when the brand objected. Hedi’s hand at work? — WWD STAFF

NIGHT OWL: Marion Cotillard is burning the for Dior. In her latest campaign, Cotillard is seen in the City of Light — posing at night GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI on the Pont Alexandre III against a fusion of electric lights representing

PHOTO BY the city’s hectic traffic. The actress wears looks from the pre-fall collection His online “Rock Diary” featured by Dior designer Raf Simons, while photographs of Lou Reed, Amy Winehouse sporting three new versions of the and more, many of whom were showcased Lady Dior bag in printed silk twill or last month in a Paris exhibition called metallic leather. The ad, shot by Craig REACH THE “Sonic” at the Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint McDean, is slated to break on Saturday Laurent Foundation. Since assuming the in Vogue Thailand, before being role of creative director at Saint Laurent, featured in Harper’s Bazaar Brazil on FASHION INDUSTRY’S rocker chicks have taken center stage Oct. 27 and Vogue Japan on Nov. 28. It in many of the designer’s campaigns, is also to be unveiled on Diormag.com which he casts and shoots himself (think on Thursday with a debut 30-second- TOP TALENT Sky Ferreira, who modeled in his pre-fall clip, directed by McDean. 2013 campaign). The designer does it — PAULINA SZMYDKE on the runways, too: His fall 2014 show soundtrack featured an original song by the L.A.- based band Cherry Glazerr, fronted by 17-year-old Clementine Creevy (the same band also soundtracked Slimane’s first short film for Saint Laurent.) WWDCAREERS COM Now one PRINT&ONLINEPACKAGESAVAILABLE of Slimane’s Marion Cotillard latest muses is for Lady Dior. Contact Christen Cosmas, WWD Classifi ed/Careers rumored to be at 212.630.3937 or [email protected] THE FABRIC PILLED HORRIBLY I HAD TO EXCHANGE IT DON’T BUY THIS ONE IT SMELLS OF BODY ODOR I HAD TO RETURN IT I AM NOT IMPRESSED WITH THE QUALITY OF THIS FABRIC AT ALL FABRIC RIPPED ALMOST IMMEDIATELY BRING BACK THE COTTON I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND I CAN STILL SMELL THE ODOR THE FABRIC LOOKS CHEAP DISAPPOINTED IN THE FABRIC IT SMELLS LIKE IT TOOK A CHEMICAL BATH JUST NOT WORTH IT ITCHY FABRIC THIS PRODUCT USED TO BE MADE WITH 100% COTTON

REPLACE COTTON AND YOU MAY HAVE TO REPLACE CUSTOMERS. Research told us that over half of all consumers would be dissatisfied if cotton were taken out of their favorite clothing. Now they’re starting to speak up. The good news is, 56% of consumers say they’re willing to pay more to ensure their T-shirts and denim jeans stay cotton rich. So if you’re thinking of replacing cotton to keep your costs down, you may want to think again. After all, there’s a reason cotton is the fabric of our lives.

cottoninc.com AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. Service Marks/Trademarks of Cotton Incorporated. © 2013 Cotton Incorporated. Source: The Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ (www.CottonLifestyleMonitor.com)