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Home , Claire Danes, Drew Barrymore, Elizabeth Banks, Gwyneth Paltrow, Hailee Steinfeld, Halle Berry

JUDY, JUDY, JUDY ACCESSORIES: Luxury handbag brand Judith Leiber introduces a WWDSTYLE lower-priced collection. Page 11.

Michelle, My Belle

A rainbow of color may have populated the carpet at this year’s Oscars, but Best Actress nominee Michelle Williams went countertrend, keeping it simply chic with a Chanel silver sheath dress. For more on the Oscars red carpet, see pages 4 and 5.

PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA 2 WWDSTYLE MONDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2011

Elizabeth Banks Livia with . and Colin eye Firth.

Claire Danes in Chanel with Stone in at the Chanel Chanel at the Jennifer dinner. Chanel dinner. Hudson Livia and

January Jones in Chanel at the Chanel The Endless Season dinner. Perhaps it was because — the current “What’s Harvey’s movie?” he asked. “‘The King’s standard-bearer for -artistes the world over — Speech’? I liked that very much.” was co-hosting the ceremony, or perhaps a rare SoCal But it wasn’t all high culture in this week. cold front had in a more contemplative The usual array of fashion house- and magazine-sponsored mood than normal, but the annual pre-Oscar party bashes, congratulatory luncheons, lesser awards shows rodeo had a definite art world bent this year. and agency schmooze fests vied for attention as well. Rodarte designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy On Wednesday night — a day before the scandal that kicked things off Wednesday night with an exhibit engulfed the house and its designer, — of their work (including several looks they created took over as co-host of ’s annual for in “Black Swan”) sponsored Oscar dinner, and transformed it from an intimate affair by at the West Hollywood branch of beneath the Chateau Marmont colonnade to a Los Angeles’ Museum of Contemporary Art 150-person event that took over the hotel’s entire and an accompanying dinner at Mr. Chow. patio and garden. As part of the installation, the room’s eye “No, I’m not the new face of Dior,” said Weinstein lights would occasionally go dim. Guests in an attempt to explain his connection to the chatted idly when they couldn’t see the fashion house. “ got me to do this.” clothes, let alone their own hands. On Thursday, Essence hosted its fourth annual On Friday night, Franco himself joined Black Women in Hollywood lunch, where honoree Jennifer director Gus Van Sant at the Gagosian Gallery Hudson arrived in a fitted purple dress that showed off in Beverly Hills to celebrate the opening of their slim physique, holding her 18-month-old son. shared show, “Unfinished.” Franco’s parents, Betsy Elsewhere on Thursday, Tom Ford proved Franco wasn’t and Doug, were among those who arrived early. the only Renaissance man in town. The designer-director “We don’t get to see him much otherwise,” said hosted a number of famous pals, including Doug. With good reason: Aside from being an Oscar and , Colin Firth, and nominee and co-host, Franco’s résumé of late , at his new store on Rodeo Drive to includes painter, short-story author, performance fete its opening. artist, film editor and director — he’s set “I mean, everything he does is just flawless,” said a Y GRAVES to helm two videos for Michael Stipe, one of which -months-pregnant Rachel Zoe as she surveyed the Uma will use footage his crew shot over Oscar weekend. scene. “Too bad I can’t wear any of it.…My water could Thurman “Now there’s nothing I haven’t done,” the totally break right here.” in Chanel Franco grinned. “After this weekend I’m committing suicide.” On Saturday, an impressive guest list — including Mick at the On Saturday night, Stipe joined a mix of characters Jagger, , Ginnifer Goodwin, Cate Chanel at PC and Andy Valmorbida’s Prism Gallery on West Blanchett, , January Jones, Claire dinner. Hollywood’s Sunset Plaza for the opening of Clare Danes and Hugh Dancy — hunkered down at Chanel Rojas’ exhibition, “Inside Bleak.” Russell Simmons, and Charles Finch’s annual dinner at Madeo. As guests who rolled solo to absorb the color-blocked prints and walked in from the (it actually snowed in some Native American-inspired imagery, said he’d be backing parts of L.A. that night), a bare-legged said, the Weinsteins come Sunday night. “That’ll teach me not to go without tights ever again.” with at the Dior Harvey Weinstein dinner. at the Dior dinner. TODD WILLIAMSON; BANKS BY JEFF VESPA/WIREIMAGE; ALL OTHERS BY AM ALL OTHERS BY JEFF VESPA/WIREIMAGE; TODD WILLIAMSON; BANKS BY

Robert Duvall with James Franco at the Gagosian Gallery. DIOR AND CHANEL PARTY PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA; FORD PARTY BY SARDELLA; FORD PARTY DONATO PHOTOS BY DIOR AND CHANEL PARTY

4 WWDSTYLE MONDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2011 eye

Color Coded eye

Cate Blanchett in Givenchy couture and Van Cleef & Arpels vintage collection.

Natalie Portman in in Vera in Rodarte and Tiffany. Wang and Harry Winston. Armani Privé. WWDSTYLEWWD STYLEXXXXXXXXX, MONDAY, XXXXXXXX FEBRUARY XX, 28, 2011 00005

FOR MORE OSCAR COVERAGE, SEE WWD.com

Melissa Leo in Marc Bouwer and Forevermark.

Javier Bardem in and Colin Firth in Chopard with Penélope Cruz in Tom Ford and L’Wren Scott and Chopard. Chopard.

DESPITE THE CONTROVERSY sur- and ’s Givenchy. rounding the house, Christian Dior “What’s not to like about this?” said didn’t get shut out of the Best Actress Williams, who began to twirl around race at Sunday’s . in her gown before stopping short. Natalie Portman chose to wear Rodarte, “Whoa! Someone just grabbed my a decision apparently made as of ass.” She looked up as Blanchett Friday morning — though her fiancé, passed by with a naughty smile on Benjamin Millepied, wore Dior Homme, her face. as did . Dior Beauty ambas- Sandra Bullock found another way sador floated by in a black to get Kidman’s attention, drop- bias-cut Dior gown, declining inter- ping her clutch at the actress’ feet. views. But made her en- “Nicole, now look what you’ve trance in a white Dior Haute Couture done,” she said in mock exaspera- gown, saying, “It was the first one I put tion. Last year’s Best Actress win- on and I liked it. I’m pretty simple like ner was a good deal more relaxed that.” She didn’t answer questions as a presenter, saying, “I chose in about the controversy, but by walking this Vera Wang gown because my Dolce & Gabbana and Anna Hu. the red carpet wearing the designer, son recognizes the color red, so I her support was loud and clear. figured if he saw me on television The rest of the actresses showed he’d look at me instead of Gwyneth off a range of looks, from a silver or Nicole, which is what usually Chanel sheath on Michelle Williams to happens.” chose her gold lamé on Gwyneth gown “because Paltrow to black-and-white Armani I’m flying the flag to support British in Calvin Klein Privé on Reese Witherspoon. They fashion. She just opened a store and jewelry. were three of the tamer ones, here in Los Angeles so I wanted to though, as color stood out all over show everyone how beautiful her SARDELLA DONATO BECK/AFP/; ALL OTHERS BY OBYN the carpet, from ’s or- dresses are.” Fellow Brit Helena Anne Hathaway in ange Atelier gown to Jennifer Bonham Carter wasn’t as selfless Valentino and Tiffany. Lawrence’s red Calvin Klein number. when it came to choosing her gown, Portman turned out to be the leader though it was designed by Brit of the purple pack, followed by Colleen Atwood: “I wanted a bustle so Scarlett Johansson’s Dolce & Gabbana I wouldn’t be worried about my bum dress, ’ Couture looking too big.” VITZ/FILMMAGIC; BARDEM BY STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE; RENNER BY R RENNER BY STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE; VITZ/FILMMAGIC; BARDEM BY

Annette Bening in in Nicole Kidman in Dior Naeem Khan and and in Yves Saint Haute Couture and Lorraine Schwartz. Fred Leighton. Laurent. Fred Leighton. WITHERSPOON PHOTO BY ETHAN MILLER/GETTY IMAGES; FIRTH BY JEFF KRA BY ETHAN MILLER/GETTY IMAGES; FIRTH WITHERSPOON PHOTO BY

ADVERTISEMENT STRONGLegwear Stands K. BELL SOXLAND BELL K. SOXLAND BELL K. SOXLAND BELL K. SOXLAND

f a season is a lifetime in While current trends are always the driver — or the and leggings, too, for that matter — it’s ultimately the brake — on legwear sales, Reese credits something be- actual product that spells success for any individual fashion then five years yond the range of any designer. “No doubt we can company. As in any business, legwear manufacturers thank the weather for sales staying strong. Tights and seek to create and perfect a point of differentiation and must be a millennium, socks that deliver a warm and cozy feeling are flying off the range of possibilities is broad in this category with but that’s how long it’s the shelves.” some consumers seeking fashion, others looking for At Los Angeles-based K. Bell, founder and chief de- comfort and many in search of the perfect combination Ibeen since legwear – led by sign officer Karen Bell makes a similar report. “Two of each. thousand ten was a fabulous year, with sales increases In the view of Karen Bell, consumer demand this year tights – came roaring back. across the board in our varied markets. Holiday was ter- is “all about the hand. All our soft fibers that are natural Indeed, according to the rific with winter icons and gift multiple packs just as or polyester are showing huge increases.” important as our traditional Kathy Collins, K. Bell’s vp of NPD Group, tights sales went holiday-themed novelty socks merchandising, agrees: “we’re from just over $100 million and tights. Even with our in- “Two thousand ten continuing to have success creasing textile costs, we were was a fabulous year, with our softest fabrication, dollars in 2006 to $396 mil- able to stay competitive and which we call ‘soft and dreamy.’ lion last year – making up grow our business.” with sales increases We carry this in crews and Clearly, increasing costs across the board in knee-high silhouettes. For fall for the steep decline in sheer have hit across the apparel 2011, we’re adding over-the- business, leaving no category our varied markets.” knee styles in the same fabri- hosiery and a more-or-less untouched, legwear included. cation.” Collins adds that the Bell is undaunted, however. Karen Bell, founder and company’s cashmere blend flat profile for socks. While “We’ve had several increases in chief design officer, K. Bell products were very successful the past few months, particu- with retailers last fall and the tights sales did dip from fall larly in cotton costs. We have company is expanding the line ’09 to fall ’10, they came on remained competitive, however, and partnered with our this year. “We’ve also seen success with our soft merino cotton suppliers as well as our retailers, on commit- wool product, which really shows off our bright color strong in the fourth quarter ments, planning and purchasing. So far, it’s been a win- palette while performing with wicking and durability win for all of us.” features that are a bonus to the consumer.” to end the year up almost 33 For Susan Reese, the rising cost of labor and raw ma- Soxland’s Reese sees style as the primary driver of percent over 2009. terials is “a concern, but not a problem.” She also recog- her consumer. “Today’s consumer isn’t just open to nizes that working with retailers to form partnerships is fashion, she’s demanding it. She wants more color, Susan Reese, vp sales and merchandising at Soxland, key. “We’re partnering with our accounts to share the more pattern and different lengths. In fact, the Ameri- rode the roller coaster that was 2010. “Last year was burden of the cost increases. There will be a slight in- can woman has become so enamored of legwear that, very challenging,” she says. “At first, the world was doing crease in retail pricing, but an extra dollar or two is not sometimes, when I’m walking down Fifth Avenue, I a Debbie Downer thing, but the year ended up being going to keep a woman from buying a fabulous pair of think I’m Tokyo where legwear has always been a fash- fantastic. We saw a significant increase in bookings, tights that she just has to have.” ion accessory.” helped along by a very strong holiday season when vir- For fall 2011, Soxland is offering a broad range of tually anything in a novelty yarn or multi-pack sold in- Giving the Consumer What She Wants styles, including chunky sweater tights with, in Re- credibly well. Best of all, strong sales are continuing in While it takes designers showing, and consumers ese’s words, “a vibrant mélange of yarns, as well as the first quarter of this year.” buying, styles that look great with tights — and socks soft, cozy boot socks in ombréd colors, legwarmers in

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open and airy crocheted knits and a group of roman- socks. “This shorter silhouette has been well-received,” tic vintage thigh-highs that are so pretty I guarantee says Collins, “as consumers are starting to understand they’ll turn heads.” that merino wool is a seasonless performance fiber.” The company is also offering an over-the-knee style In terms of colors for fall 2011, virtually anything with open textures, ribbon, foil, crystal nailheads and goes although black continues to be very strong. novelty yarns. The lengths vary from 21-27 inches. They “Our palette is so varied because we sell in so many can be “worn slouched or neat, depending on the look; channels, but, overall, brights have done really well for either way they look us, and we’re featuring SOXLAND great,” says Reese. neon pink and magen- Karen Bell agrees “Today’s consumer isn’t ta shades for fall ’11,” that consumers want says Collins. “We’re more than just the ba- just open to fashion, she’s also offering crimson sics. “Although this demanding it. She wants red and orange flame, economy started out the colors of the sunset, with a huge emphasis more color, more pattern which are offset with on basic styles, fun and different lengths.” rich chestnut and cof- fashion is coming back fee. On the cooler side, strong. We have lots of we see blue influencing Susan Reese, vp sales new novelty in our col- our plush green and K. BELL and merchandising, Soxland lections as well as some teal shades. Bright incredibly funky styl- azure to dusty blues as ing in our junior lines.” well as amethyst to Kathy Collins puts it this way: “At K. Bell, we design eggplant show up in our newest designs, while our team Soxland with the end use in mind. We want to offer solution- also adds touches of metallic that keep it sophisticated 7 West 36th Street, 7th Floor based products for our customers. It might be as simple and fun.” , NY 10018 as the over-the-knee sock with soft ruching to be worn At Soxland, Reese has seen strong reactions to nude, Susan Reese, vice president, sales & merchandising slouched with boots and skinny jeans, or our new toe- sapphire blue, deep black, varying shades of heather 212 679-4588 less yoga sock, which has hidden arch support, wicking and pops of red and orange. All of these, she reports, www.soxland.com performance fibers and grippers for traction because “have been placed on new twists of leopard, cheetah and one might not want to be completely barefoot when do- zebra prints. Plus, as always, Soxland offers the most K.Bell Socks ing yoga or Pilates. This sock allows the wearer to per- whimsical novelty prints that are sure to put a smile on 350 Fifth Avenue. form and have warm feet at the same time. We had re- your face.” New York, NY 10118 quests for this from our specialty accounts and we’ve Based on what’s going on with these two companies, Greg Matson, chief operating officer kept it fun with bold stripes.” it would appear that the legwear millennium isn’t in any 212-564-4710 K. Bell has also added merino wool fiber to their sport danger of ending in 2011.

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At Soxland, we’ve been bringing winning programs to the world of retail for over two decades. We have experience in collaborating with our clients to create great sell-throughs and larger margins so that our socks deliver profit. To experience the breadth of our styles, come visit our showroom. 25 years proud and strong!

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7 WEST 36TH STREET, NEW YORK, NY 10018 T. 212.679.4588 E. [email protected] WWW.SOXLAND.COM WWDSTYLE MONDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2011 11 innerwear/accessories Fashionable Merchandise Leiber’s Overture Drives Demand at CurveNY Into Lower Prices

By KARYN MONGET up. We don’t believe that now is the time By LAUREN BENET STEPHENSON to put off the consumer with higher pric- THE MOOD WAS hopeful at the CurveNY es.…Our challenge has been to provide JUDITH LEIBER is extending its reach be- trade show at the Jacob K. Javits new, fresh designs that are considered a yond Ladies Who Lunch to encompass girls Convention Center in New York despite value at a designer price point, because who party, with the launch of Overture by worries over skyrocketing costs for raw all consumers, even at a luxe level, are Judith Leiber. materials and labor. looking for value. The consumer has be- The 15-piece line, produced with licensee A demand for fashion merchandise come more discriminating in this bad Accessory Network Group, will be sold in lux- underscored a growing sense of opti- economy, and they will still buy but what ury department stores and Judith Leiber bou- mism at the three-day fair which closed they buy has to be special. As for contain- tiques beginning in the fall, and will be priced Wednesday and was bustling with retail- ing prices, component prices go up and between $200 and $700. ers — even the last day when down…we have to be consistent Overture handbags come in jewel traffic is traditionally sparse. Retro in our designs and prices so that tones like violet and blue, as JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY Retailers left orders for satin teddy we maintain customer loyalty.” well as a heavy dose of me- immediate deliveries as by Flora Guido Campello, vice presi- tallics and leopard print. well as gift-giving items for Nikrooz. dent of sales, marketing and Though manufactured in a Mother’s Day. At the same innovation at Cosabella, said different part of the world time, volatile market prices forecasting and projecting manu- than Judith Leiber bags for raw materials as well facturing capacity are the “big- (China, as opposed to Italy) as production and labor gest issues” for fall. the accessibly priced col- costs accelerated com- “It hasn’t been hard to lection displays an unmis- mitments for fall-winter convince customers to leave takable Leiber thumbprint. 2011-2012 goods. This is orders for fall and winter and Geometric minaudieres are Handbags from Overture in sharp contrast to buy- we’ve been getting more paper plentiful and encrusted with by Judith Leiber. ing patterns in 2009 and than usual. We want retailers crystals, studs and agate geo- 2010, when a majority of to understand the production metric designs, and come with cross-body straps, while larger suede day bags are retailers would hold off cycle and we’ve been more accented with delicate studs. on seasonal orders until aggressive in making sure “There was a lot of dialogue about, ‘What will this look like?’” said Mary the last minute, thus retailers understand our Gleason, Judith Leiber Brand president, of envisioning the Overture line. “When creating an uncertain projections and our needs,” people broaden their assortment, they always think about it as a diffusion line, they environment for fore- explained Campello. think about it as dumbing the core down, but that is not what this is at all. We see casting and projec- Campello said Cosabella this really as a broadening of a customer base, not only [via] price point, but in tions, said vendors. raised prices in the “low trend and look.” A clear sign that teens” for immediate and Gleason initially decided to launch Overture as a reaction to market reali- business was improv- basic merchandise on Feb. ties. “We looked at the contemporary part of the business with two opportunities: ing was the feed- 1, but noted the company’s broader design aesthetic…and price offering,” she said. In particular, Gleason aims back from exhibitors strategy for fall will be to to compete with the secondary markets of eBay and online retailers. “When you who reported sell- Brulée’s “reengineer fibers and look on eBay and you look at the [Judith Leiber bags] being sold, they’re really in throughs of key items were up 3 to 5 per- seductive maintain prices.” that $200-to-800 range. So, if there’s a customer out there who’s buying at that price cent or more in January and February mesh “We are making our point, why can’t I get it right up front?” at major stores and specialty boutiques. romper. own laces and we are Additionally, there’s a generation of young women raised with Judith-Leiber- Top-selling ideas included a variety of developing fiber from carrying mothers, who appreciate the brand but can’t afford its $1,500 to $12,000 dual-purpose control tops ranging scratch,” said Campello. price tag. from tanks to camis, pretty, lingerie Addressing the Gleason pointed to Kathy and Nicky Hilton and said, “Some of the girls who looking daywear bras and coordinat- soaring price of cot- have grown up with their moms having Judith Leiber bags, they want their own. ing undies, contemporary loungewear ton, Campello said, They’ll buy the real deal, but they’ll also look for a more contemporary expression pieces that have a ready-to-wear spin, “Consumers know cotton of the brand for themselves.” and lightweight shapewear items is a traded commodity… Abe Chehebar, chairman and chief executive officer of Accessory Network with special treatments such as cotton could become a Group, agreed. “This is all about expanding the horizons of Judith Leiber and en- animal prints. Fashion colors also item like silk — expen- abling a wider audience to be able to own a piece of Judith Leiber,” he said. generated strong sales and red is sive. In [upscale] bou- Chehebar continued, “Judith Leiber is very unique in what they do. They’re in expected to be a top color for fall, tiques, the category their own satellite in the world of evening bags. [Overture] is more consistent with executives said. will always be there where the rest of the market is, in price point…and it’s also fashion relative, mean- Laurence Teinturier, executive and will be very com- ing, we’ll look at the top fashion trends and implement them into this business.” vice president at CurvExpo Inc., said, petitive, but I think people “I think there’s a lot of opportunity for us in this category, and this is really just “Stores are telling us that customers are will pay for it.” the start of it,” said Gleason, who also hinted at the possibility of Overture shoes coming back and they are in a mood to Gregory Gimble, vice presi- and belts in the future. buy again. Customers started returning dent of Va Bien, a shapewear specialist, the last quarter of 2010, but while they said he believes consumers will pay a want fashion in post-recessionary times, “few dollars more” for a product they they want fashion basics, and that was perceive has value. O’Connor Shuttering Showroom the focus of this show. With that idea “We are raising some prices, but se- in mind, we hosted two trend seminars lectively, in stronger styles where price By MARC KARIMZADEH space at 141 West 36th Street in 2000. for two major retailers, Macy’s and increases can be absorbed such as a solu- O’Connor made a name for herself Bloomingdale’s, and we outlined the tion garment that would be $4 or $5 dol- NEW YORK — After 19 years, Cynthia by helping businesses become signif- trends with brands from the show.” lars more at retail. Women are still going O’Connor + Company, the multiline icant retail brands, including Kate Victor Lee, chief executive officer to buy it,” said Gimble. showroom, is shuttering its doors Spade, Me&Ro, Lela Rose, Rebecca of Viceroy Collections, which has the Gimble further noted that top-booking next month. Minkoff, Botkier, Isabella Fiore and Samantha Chang daywear and sleep- shapewear items feature an enhanced “This is not a business model that Kooba. wear label, said the “overall mood was perceived value. I am willing to reinvest in,” founder At its height in 2006, the show- definitely better than it has been in the “Everyone is taking a really hard look Cynthia O’Connor told WWD. “Several room’s volume hit $54 million, ac- past two years. at the value propositions being offered… of my largest vendors have exited the cording to O’Connor, and in 2007, she “I wouldn’t say that the buyers were is it soft, comfortable, lightweight, does it showroom due to buyouts by large cor- renovated her showroom, doubling exuberant or really happy, but retailers offer firm control and is there something porations which forced me to reevalu- its space to 12,000 square feet. Since really felt like the consumers’ purchas- special like a leopard pattern? That pat- ate. Between these exits and some 2006, O’Connor also has operated a ing was on an upswing,” Lee said. “I don’t tern is another value,” he said. very large outstanding payments due 4,000-square-foot showroom in the think anyone is feeling that we’re going to Leonard Greenbaum, national sales to my company, we have decided to Cooper Building in Los Angeles. have a big surge of buying, but things are manager at TC Fine Intimates, which has close the doors.” O’Connor, who currently has about inching upward. I believe many consum- the Miraclesuit brand, said retailers were O’Connor, a former buyer at Stanley 20 lines in her roster, is pulling the ers are tired of not treating themselves to not alarmed at the company’s 4.5 percent Korshak in Dallas, had founded the plug on her garment district showroom something new in their closet.” price hike for fall. showroom in 1992, and after a two-year at the end of next month. “This journey Regarding soaring costs for raw ma- “There’s been no concern because our hiatus during which she served as ex- has been very rewarding and I feel for- terials, which includes lace, trims and company has not raised prices in 13 years ecutive vice president of licensing and tunate to have had the opportunity to embroideries, Lee said, “We are holding and we’ve been considered underpriced,” brand management at Kate Spade, build the brands that I have over the

PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY prices even though our costs have gone said Greenbaum. she reopened in a 6,000-square-foot years,” she said.