Manhattan’sThe Retail RentsInside: Pg. 12 WILL FEDS EYE MAGS?/3 LAUREN GETS ACTIVE/10 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The THURSDAYRetailers’ Daily Newspaper • June 16, 2005• $2.00 List Sportswear The Gathering MILAN — “My resort collection reveals the essentials that have come to define an Armani style revisited for today’s ever-evolving woman,” Giorgio Armani said of his latest looks. Indeed, few things epitomize the designer’s style more than fluid fabrics, soft neutrals and feminine silhouettes, as seen here in his fitted, gathered silk jacket over printed silk pants. For more on the season, see pages 6 and 7.

Tommy’s Tales of Woe: State Probes Revealed As Pretax Income Falls By Lisa Lockwood NEW YORK — “Tommy’s Troubles” might be a better name for his reality TV series. As Tommy Hilfiger Corp. reported a 45.9 percent drop in its preliminary net income for fiscal 2005, it disclosed Wednesday that it is in discussions with state and local tax authorities in New York and state authorities in New Jersey to settle an income-tax issue for its subsidiary, Tommy Hilfiger Licensing Inc. THLI is a Delaware intangible holding company that collects royalties from third parties and affiliated companies that use the Hilfiger trademark. See Tommy’s, Page14 PHOTO BY KHEPRI STUDIO PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear GENERAL ™ Tommy Hilfiger reported a 45.9 percent drop in 2005 pretax income and 1 said it’s in talks with authorities in two states to settle an income tax issue. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based Saks Fifth Avenue has landed Hilary Swank as the Entertainment Industry on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated 3 Foundation ambassador to its annual Key to the Cure campaign. Saks Inc. was slapped with a default notice on $230 million worth of WEDDING BELLES 3 convertible senior notes, but said it had the money to repay it. Today’s bridesmaids opt for light and airy fashions EYE: Attendees at the New York City Ballet’s “Dance With the Dancers” event 4 grappled with the heat and the ambiguous dress code of “Cannes Chic.” As the temperature rises, so does the number proverbial star of the show. “Today’s bride is FASHION: Flowing, easy cuts made for sophisticated resort looks, as seen of weddings. “Summer is a fantastic time to get definitely more open-minded and a little bit older,” 6 in collections from Giorgio Armani, Diane von Furstenberg and Peter Som. married,” relates Beth Blake, owner of Thread, a concurs Yoo. “She’s comfortable with herself.” chic destination for bridal parties in New York. According to the Monitor, 65% of women ages Obituary ...... 17 “Warm weather weddings have that easy feel and 25 to 34 gave their marital status as married in Classified Advertisements ...... 18-19 sentimentality to them.” 1995, compared to just 61% in 2004. Among those To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is But that air of romanticism 35 to 55; 72% in 1995 stated [email protected], using the individual’s name. also beckons a dose of reality, that they were married compared WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 cautions Jenny Yoo, a designer of to 66% in 2005. FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 189, NO. 127. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one sophisticated bridesmaid dresses. The overall look for the additional issue in June; two additional issues in April, May, August, October, November and December, and three additional “A bride needs to be considerate modern bridal party generally is a issues in February, March and September, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., of the season,” she explains. collaborative effort among the Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill “Dresses for the wedding party bride and her attendants. “I think Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- should be light and airy and in the majority of women in bridal President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at tune with summer.” parties are well educated about additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, Agrees Christina Dalle Pezze, style and fashion,” agrees Andreas ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR designer and founder of Simple Padazoboulos, an owner of SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is Silhouettes, a boutique for Banico, a New York City custom required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new bridesmaids, “Bridal parties shop. subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, can select lighter colors, easy “Bridal parties can select “Nearly all of our customers please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild lighter colors, easy silhouettes, bring in pictures from magazines,” magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully silhouettes, and natural fibers screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive for the dresses. That will go a and natural fibers for the dresses. she says. “They’ve done their these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. That will go a long way in WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED long way in ensuring that the homework and at the end of the MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND bridesmaids are as comfortable ensuring that the bridesmaids day, they want what looks best TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART are as comfortable as they WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED as they are beautiful.” for their body type.” TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE This season’s wedding attendants are beautiful.” According to the Monitor, one ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. seem to have an endless array to — Christina Dalle Pezze, in three women cite fashion choose from, agree the experts, Simple Silhouettes magazines as a source for clothing and they are all ultimately fash- ideas. ionable. “Our collection is all about natural fibers, There truly is something for every bridesmaid, In Brief so our dresses are perfect for the warmer months,” no matter what her body type or size, stresses Dalle Pezze continues. “What you wear should be Dalle Pezze from Simple Silhouettes. “A bride ● COURT DATE: François Pinault is expected to travel to Los breathable; a cotton dress is ideal for a summer can decide that she wants her attendants to wear Angeles July 12 for the next round of negotiations in the ongoing wedding, whether the ceremony is right by the a strapless dress and the bridesmaids still have Executive Life case. Last month, U.S. District Court judge water or in the middle of the city.” a range of choices, from a lower-waisted cut to an Howard Matz urged Pinault and the California insurance com- A majority of women will put their money empire waist.” missioner to reach a negotiated accord after a jury ruled that where their comfort is, according to Cotton “Strapless happens to be our number one seller, Pinault’s family-owned holding company, Artemis, conspired to defraud insurance regulators when it acquired Executive Life’s Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™. so it’s not only a style that’s on Willing To Pay More For junk bond portfolio, reaping huge profits. Meanwhile, the jury Sixty-one percent of female trend but in keeping with the Natural Fibers Such As Cotton cleared Pinault personally of any wrongdoing. Attempts by the respondents stated that they were season,” Yoo confirms. “Sleeveless two parties to settle on a penalty sum failed earlier this month. willing to pay more for natural (Women 16-70) is a close runner up and that also ● fibers such as cotton. Yes 61% happens to be an ideal silhouette HEADING WEST: Mango, Spain’s cheap-chic fashion chain, is “It’s a very cool and summery No 34% for the summer.” set to open its first U.S. store by the end of November in the Los fabric,” considers Blake from However, warm weather Angeles area, a spokesman confirmed this week. Spanning 8,600 Thread. She also highlights an added bonus to weddings are not just limited to the summer square feet, the two-level location is slated for Santa Monica’s buying a cotton bridesmaid’s dress. “You can wear months. With the overwhelming popularity shop-heavy Third Street Promenade. According to Barcelona it again and it won’t scream that you wore it in of destination weddings, many in tropical and headquarters, the store logo and brand will be marketed as seaside locations, the need for lighter dressing MNG in the U.S. Los Angeles was chosen as the U.S. “point of a wedding party.” entry” because of “its huge potential as a market and its proxim- In fact, diversion from yesterday’s flouncy and is paramount. ity to neighboring countries such as Mexico, where Mango has unflattering frocks seems to be the defining trend in Blake estimates that out-of-town ceremonies been present for more than 10 years,” according to a company bridal dressing today. “All women want to look great comprise one in three weddings for customers statement. For 2004, Mango sales climbed 5.3 percent to 1.05 bil- in their dresses, so custom design is there to make of Thread; for these occasions, she sells her share lion euros (or $1.31 billion at current exchange), 73 percent from everyone happy,” explains Christina Kara, owner of of cotton eyelet. “We do a lot of short, white cotton international markets. Blue, a boutique located in Manhattan’s emerging eyelet dresses with pink, blue and green trims; Lower East Side. the color really comes through and gives it a ● PACSUN PRESIDENT TO RETIRE: Tim Harmon will retire It seems customization has changed the face – wonderful hue,” she says. “There’s something July 1 as president and chief merchandising officer of Pacific very sweet, yet sexy, about eyelet and that’s why Sunwear of California Inc. after almost 14 years with the compa- and the attitude – of bridal parties everywhere. ny. “We appreciate the incredible job that Tim has done in help- “Today’s bride feels obliged to please her sisters, bridesmaids really love it.” ing grow Pacific Sunwear into one of the largest specialty retail- cousins and friends so she allows them to choose And cheerful bridesmaids should make for a ers in the world,” chief executive officer Seth Johnson said in a the styles that are most flattering for them,” blissful bride. As designer Dalle Pezze concludes, “It statement. Harmon’s merchandising responsibilities will be as- Kara continues. doesn’t make sense that anyone would want to go sumed by the company’s division presidents. In addition, Reenie “Bridal parties are not about a uniform look into that day unhappy about anything. After all, Benziger has been named executive vice president of merchan- anymore,” confirms Blake from Thread. That who doesn’t want to see happy, smiling faces in their dising for the company’s PacSun Division. accounts for today’s wedding parties that often wedding pictures?” wear one color but in a variety of silhouettes, or This story is one in a series of articles based on findings one style of dress but seen in a palette of colors. “It’s from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ hard to put everyone in the same exact dress and tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, Corrections expect each person to look good. Customization is each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the James McArthur’s title was incorrect in a story on page 24, a great way for a bride to be considerate of her American women’s wear consumer and her attitudes Monday. He is executive vice president and director of strategy bridesmaids,” Blake adds. and behavior regarding clothing, and acquisitions at Gucci Group. Such consideration likely comes from a strong appearance, fashion, fiber selection and ● ● ● dose of maturity and confidence from the many other timely, relevant subjects. The Estée Lauder Cos. brand Stila will make its QVC debut on Saturday at 11 a.m. The date was incorrect in a Top Note that ap- peared on page 9, Friday. WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 16, 2005 3 WWD.COM 3 Arrests in Circ Scandal, Saks Taps Swank for ‘Key to the Cure’ By Marc Karimzadeh Saks is planning to kick off the initiative with a black-tie gala at its Manhattan flagship on Oct. Mags Could Be Next Target NEW YORK — Saks Fifth Avenue’s Oscar-winning 26. The event will be followed by a special shop- run continues. ping weekend at 58 Saks Fifth Avenue stores, its By Sara James ter, causing five of its six titles to After Nicole Kidman in 2003 52 Off 5th outlet stores and miss their rate base in 2004. It and Charlize Theron last year, Saks.com on Oct. 28-29. Five NEW YORK — As the circulation also filed a civil suit against sub- Saks secured Hilary Swank as Hilary percent of sales at Saks Fifth scandal saw its first arrests scription agent Publishers Com- the Entertainment Industry Swank in Avenue and Saks.com will be Wednesday — three men were munications Systems for falsify- Foundation ambassador to its the DVF- donated to EIF’s Women’s taken into custody on fraud ing subscriptions. G+J sold off its annual Key to the Cure for can- designed Cancer Research Fund. Off charges relating to inflated fig- four remaining women’s titles to cer campaign. “Key to 5th, meanwhile, will give 2 ures at Newsday and Hoy — Meredith Corp. last month and is Swank will appear in the the Cure” percent to the fund. there are indications the maga- negotiating with potential buyers campaign wearing a limited- T-shirt. Since its founding seven zine industry could also be in for its two remaining U.S. maga- edition T-shirt designed by years ago, Key to the Cure has federal prosecutors’ sights. zines, Fast Company and Inc. Diane von Furstenberg, fea- raised more than $15 million. Edward Smith, Robert Garcia G+J is still seeking $10 million in turing an abstract red heart This year, Wilson hopes the and Richard Czark, former em- damages from PCS to cover ad- motif and phrases like “love is campaign will break the $20 ployees of Newsday and the vertiser refunds. life” and “life is love,” in million barrier. Spanish-language newspaper Hoy, At the time the PCS suit was DVF’s own script. The T-shirt, “The event is a good match were arrested Wednesday. Smith filed, many in the industry be- available at Saks this fall, will for Saks, because we have and Garcia were arraigned in lieved this was simply another retail for $35, of which $33 will such a predominantly female Brooklyn federal court on charges chapter in G+J’s circulation be given to the cause. The customer,” Wilson said. “It’s a that included paying their own struggles. But several executives, campaign featuring Swank way for us to connect with workers to buy copies of Newsday including circulation consultant will break in fashion and that part of society, doing from street vendors being moni- and vice chairman of USA Pubs lifestyle magazines in October. something that is meaningful tored by the Audit Bureau of Chip Block, said soon after that Fighting cancer is a cause by trying to cure this terrible Circulations. They pleaded not incident this was an industry- that’s dear to Swank. “My fam- disease.” guilty and each was released on a wide problem not limited to G+J. ily has been ravaged by can- Breast cancer is Saks’ $250,000 secured bond. Czark was Since then, the ABC has be- cer,” she disclosed via e-mail. largest charitable cause. As in arrested in South Carolina and come more stringent in its docu- “My grandmother, my grandfa- past years, Mercedes-Benz will be arraigned in the Brooklyn mentation requirements for pub- ther and my mother-in-law USA is the campaign’s nation- court in the next 10 days. If con- lishers and subagents. Michael have all died of cancer and al sponsor, and it has pledged victed, each defendant faces a Lavery, the ABC’s president, who when given the opportunity to to make a $1 million donation maximum sentence of 20 years in was traveling Wednesday and help in this endeavor, I imme- again this year. It will raise prison and a $250,000 fine. could not be reached for comment, diately said yes.” money through sales of a spe- In a statement distributed by told WWD in February, “We’re into Having for the third con- cial, limited version of its the Justice Department, U.S. a new climate of accountability.” secutive year tapped a 2006 R-Class sports touring PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER Attorney Roslynn Mauskopf said, In March, EBSCO Consumer celebrity who just won the car, available at Mercedes- “Today’s arrests…are intended to Marketing Services, one of the Academy Award for best actress, Saks is setting a Benz dealerships this fall. restore transparency and fairness biggest agents in the U.S., servic- standard. Last year, Theron wore a Marc Jacobs- The Women’s Cancer Research Fund was to the newspaper and magazine ing Time Inc., Hachette Filipac- designed T-shirt, and the year before, Kidman founded by Kelly Chapman Meyer, Anne Douglas, marketplace.” It was her inclu- chi Media and Condé Nast (like sported one created by Stella McCartney. Quinn Ezralow, Marion Laurie and Jamie Tisch. sion of the word “magazine” in WWD, a unit of Advance Publica- “We want something very special for this very Its honorary chairs are Rita Wilson, Tom Hanks, connection with indictments of tions Inc.), was censured for im- special, important and meaningful initiative that Kate Capshaw and Steven Spielberg. former newspaper employees proper record-keeping by the we’re involved in, so the more high profile, the bet- Swank already knows how she would like to that indicated an ongoing Justice ABC. This followed an earlier ter for the event,” Fred Wilson, Saks Fifth Avenue’s wear the T-shirt. “It’s a really cute everyday T- Department investigation into cir- censure in the summer of 2004 of chairman and chief executive officer, said. shirt that I’ll wear with jeans,” she said. culation could affect that sector of Synapse, a subagent owned by the publishing business as well. Time Warner, for failing to collect While the U.S. Attorney’s subscription payments on time. Office said Wednesday, “We can- Sanctions against Synapse have not comment on an ongoing inves- since been lifted. Hedge Fund Gives Saks Notice of Default tigation,” a source close to the in- “We have been conducting a vestigation said records for a series of seminars with agents, il- By Liza Casabona compliance certificate to the trustee within 120 number of publications and pub- lustrating for them the kind of days of the end of the fiscal year. lishing firms have been subpoe- records ABC needs,” John Payne, NEW YORK — Saks Inc. was slapped with a de- The retailer said it has $324 million in cash naed, and indicated that maga- senior vice president of commu- fault notice on $230 million worth of debt, but on hand as well as the expectation of about $620 zines may be on the agenda. nications at the ABC, said said it has the money to repay it if necessary. million in proceeds from the pending sale of the However, the source had no Wednesday, making it clear he The retailer said in a statement Wednesday it Proffitt’s and McRae’s stores to Belk Inc. If addi- knowledge of any individual mag- didn’t think an examination of the was notified of being in default of the convert- tional funds are required, Saks said it intends to azines being targeted. magazine industry was necessari- ible senior notes, due March 15, 2024, from a rely on borrowings under its amended and re- The accuracy of magazine and ly linked to the Newsday and Hoy hedge fund that owns more than 25 percent of stated credit agreement, which has about $650 newspaper circulation figures investigations. “We’re certainly the debt. Saks was given notice because the com- million of unused capacity. has been under the spotlight for working very diligently to verify pany has delayed the filing of its annual report. The retailer’s other lenders already have several years, beginning with the all aspects of claimed circulation Saks has until Aug. 13, or 60 days from the waived any event of default that might arise scandal at Gruner + Jahr USA’s [in the magazine business],” date the default notice was given, to resolve the from its delay in filing the requisite regulatory YM and Rosie. In January, G+J Payne said. “We’ve spent a lot of issue. If Saks can’t clear the notice or get a waiv- filings, Saks said. stated that auditors had disquali- time on it in the past few months, er, then the notice becomes an “event of default.” As reported, Saks also is considering its op- fied the bulk of its subscriber ros- educating agents and publishers.” Saks said a default on this debt could lead tions with respect to its Northern division of de- holders of other senior debt notes to accelerate partment store nameplates as well as its Club Katie Holmes the maturity of their notes. If all the senior Libby Lu specialty store business. Fashion Scoop notes are accelerated, Saks’ total liability for A Saks spokeswoman said, “It’s unfortunate immediate repayment, including the convert- that the act of a single hedge fund is seeking to FASHION SCIENCE: Katie ible notes subject to the notice of default, take advantage of the current situation, but for Holmes may be crazy in love would be $1.22 billion. Saks said it would be us, it’s business as usual.” with you-know-who, but she able to repay the debt holders if any of the ma- Meanwhile, Fitch Ratings said it would not is also becoming a bit of a turities are accelerated. take any immediate rating actions on Saks’ sen- Coco nut. In Paris Tuesday “We are disappointed to have received the no- night for the premiere of ior notes in connection with the default notice “Batman Begins,” a tice of default, given the overall strength of our because Saks has “sufficient liquidity to repay beaming Holmes hit the red financial position and our public statements on its $1.2 billion of senior notes in the event all of carpet in a sophisticated the expected filing of our 2004 10K on or before its debt is accelerated in 60 days.” and understated black-and- Sept. 1, 2005. We believe that we have adequate The company is in the midst of examining im- white Chanel gown, the first resources available…to fully retire all amounts proper markdown allowances in various prior of several Chanels she is that may be accelerated and to fund our opera- periods. Due to the internal reviews, Saks de- expected to wear in the tions,” said Douglas E. Coltharp, chief financial layed its annual report and 10K, and will adjust coming weeks at premieres officer of Saks Inc., in a statement. financial statements going back to 1999. As re- for her new film and at the The default notice was sent because Saks ported, the company is also the subject of sepa- side of Tom Cruise for his breached certain covenants of the debt agree- rate investigations by the Securities and “War of the Worlds.” ment when it failed to file its annual report with Exchange Commission and the U.S. Attorney’s Perfect for all that the Securities and Exchange Commission, as Office in Manhattan. anticipated mugging for the well as to the trustee of the convertible notes. It Saks’ shares fell 2.2 percent to $18.09 in trad- cameras. also was given the notice for “nondelivery” of a ing on Wednesday. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 16, 2005 WWD.COM Heat Stroke NEW YORK — As if the steamy weather weren’t enough, attendees of the annual New York City Ballet’s “Dance With the Dancers” event on Monday night also grappled with the rather ambiguous eye® dress code of “Cannes Chic.” Gianpaolo de Felice Tim Schifter “I don’t know if it’s ‘Cannes Chic,’ ” said Julia Restoin-Roitfeld of (Mr.(Mr. GabbyGabby Karan)Karan) (Mr.(Mr. Helen)Helen) her vintage print dress, “but it’s French chic.” A few cocktail goers braved the sauna on the Terrace of the Promenade of the New York State Theater, but others, such as co-chairs Robin Renzi and Rita HAPPY FATHER’S DAY Norona Schrager and Tatum O’Neal, kept to the cooler interior. Despite the balmy So what’s it like to be the spouse of an oft- temps, it seemed not everyone was in vacation photographed social swan? Despite having to squire mode. “I’m reopening my store in the their wives around to an endless parade of black-tie Hamptons right now, so I’m going back and fetes and designer dinners as well as be bossed out forth,” said an exhausted Nina Griscom of her of shots by photographers, this gallant group always frenzied commute. After dinner, many guests manages their escorting duties with aplomb. moved to the Promenade’s balconies to get a “I understand the red carpet and the ‘step bird’s-eye view of City Ballet’s Melissa Barak’s Marisa Noel and repeat.’ And I don’t mind being shot in the specially choreographed performance before Brown and Muffie background with the palm tree,” says Tim taking to the floor themselves. Three of the Potter Aston at Schifter, husband of Helen. “Just don’t ask me to ballet dancers wore spring collection outfits Baby Buggy. store your lipstick in my tuxedo.” by Chloé, the night’s sponsor. It’s, at times, a thankless job, but what better The next night, in Barneys New York’s occasion than Father’s Day to give these loyal Chelsea Passage, dresses of a different sort husbands some better play? were on display as some of New York’s chicest mummies turned out to support Baby Buggy, one of Jessica Seinfeld’s pet charities. Seinfeld herself, due in August, was in a blue Proenza Schouler dress designed specially for her. “I wear a lot of Proenza and Marni, now that I’m pregnant,” she said. Just don’t ask her how she’s handling the heat. “I hate talking about the weather. There is nothing more Jessica Seinfeld and uninteresting than talking about the weather.” Eric Zinterhofer Rufus Albemarle Narciso Rodriguez Eric Zinterhofer Rufus Albemarle Others, such as Blair Husain, Marjorie (Mr.(Mr. Aerin)Aerin) (Mr.(Mr. Sally)Sally) Raein and Heather Mnuchin, appeared to agree, being more interested in discussing their children. Not everyone had kids on the brain, Nina though. On the way out, Jacquetta Wheeler Griscom offered her Johnson & Johnson-laden gift bag to Marisa Noel Brown, exclaiming, “Do Victoria Traina you want mine? What do I want with diaper Victoria Traina at “Dance rash cream?” at “Dance With the The previous week, in an unconventional With the Dancers.” pairing of a masculine icon and fashion, IanIan ConnorConnor Damon Dash Nathalie Kaplan and Lydia Fenet hosted a (Mr.(Mr. MarinaMarina Rust)Rust) (Mr.(Mr. RachelRachel Roy)Roy) ladies’ lunch at Christie’s. Celerie Kemble, Lauren duPont and Zani Gugelmann were among those who gathered to preview Akris’ fall collection and get a sneak peak at the DARK NIGHT: personal property of Marlon Brando — When Carolyne which is being auctioned on June 30 and EYE SCOOP Roehm threw includes personal effects such as annotated open the doors of her new East 57th Street duplex scripts, letters and film memorabilia. But it Monday night to fete Marian McEvoy and her “Glue was the fashion that really had an impact. Gun Decor” book, there was some unexpected “I’m a changed woman,” enthused Kaplan excitement. Shortly after the cocktail party started, of her new striped and strapless Akris frock. a manhole just outside the doors of Roehm’s Julia “Everyone is like, ‘What happened, building exploded, sending smoke into the lobby Restoin- Nathalie?’ So I’ve decided that it’s the and cutting off all electricity. Not that it stopped the Roitfeld clothes that make the woman and not the Lauren duPont Nathalie Kaplan celebration: Tinsley Mortimer, for one, not to be woman who makes the clothes.” prevented from going to a good party, walked up to the 13th-floor apartment in her high heels. When power still hadn’t been restored as the cocktail hour “He’s in a moment when the world seems to be a more came to a close, Roehm gamely threw together an bewildering place than he ever expected it to be, and there’s lots of impromptu meal for her guests, hoping to entertain Wicked Irish clashing narratives he’s involved in,” says McCrea, 30, who grew up them until power was restored. “It was the hottest “Cult” is a rather extreme term, calling to mind images of strange in a Dublin suburb, similar to Niall’s hometown. “And he hopes, like dinner,” she joked. Among those who braved the rituals or innocent young actresses being seduced to Scientology. But lots of us do, to find a penultimate story in the end, to find a kind of lack of air conditioning were Senga and John Jay Barry McCrea, whose debut novel, “The First Verse,” is out this underlying narrative that explains it all. But, in fact, what he’s really Mortimer, Catherine Bryan, Michael Thomas, Ben month from Carroll & Graf, applies it to more benign gatherings. doing is sewing together a kind of patchwork of reality out of all the Brantley and Jamie Niven. By evening’s end, the “I think that literary academia is sort of a cult of its own, and I different things he sees around him.” lights still were out, so guests enjoyed a think a very good one, in a lot of ways,” he says by phone Although Niall’s mystic seduction is not based on constitutional by walking back down the stairs. from Italy’s Umbria region, where he is on vacation. “I personal experience, McCrea argues it is merely an mean, if you’re going to pick any cult to join, I think it’s a extrapolation of what any avid reader encounters. “I think SO LONG, SOTO: After 24 years with the New York pretty good one.” when you start to read seriously, one of the first things City Ballet, principal dancer Jock Soto will turn a McCrea should know, having been a member of said that happens to you is you get overenthusiastic,” he says. final pirouette on the stage of the New York State group for years, first as a Spanish and French student at “You start to think that literature has all the answers, that Theater on Sunday afternoon. He will perform in five Trinity College and later studying for his Ph.D. in if you read enough, eventually you’ll come across the consecutive works, each by a different literature at Princeton University. answer. And the truth is very different. In fact, you have choreographer, including a selection from “West Currently dividing his time between his job as an to make the answers up yourself.” Side Story Suite” and Peter Martins’ “Barber Violin assistant professor of comparative literature at Yale Niall’s search for these solutions in many ways parallels Concerto,” to a virtually sold-out audience. A lucky University and months traveling across Europe, McCrea Ireland’s own struggle to construct a coherent identity. “He few will head downtown afterward to a private dinner chose to give his protagonist a considerably darker leaves home for the first time, he’s gay and he’s thinking being given in his honor by Anne Bass, a friend of encounter with the cult phenomenon. Set in present-day about coming out. He discovers that the world is much Soto’s for over 20 years. The evening will have a Dublin, “The First Verse” follows Niall Lenihan, a freshman bigger than he thought,” says McCrea. “It’s very similar to Mexican theme, including a buffet, a special from a bourgeois Irish suburb studying French and English at Trinity an insular society, what Ireland used to be. It’s like that society suddenly performance by the company’s corps and disco College. While grappling with his homosexual awakening and the finding itself rich, at an international crossroad, and trying to figure out a dancing for everyone afterward. Monday evening, freedom provided by living away from home, Niall finds himself drawn to consistent narrative for itself within that. The book is about that problem Soto will begin his move into another career, taking a pair of mysterious thirtysomethings whose obsessive literary rituals and that experience, as it pertains to Ireland and as it pertains to the restaurant business and management courses so he (they base their daily decisions on random lines chosen from books) lead protagonist. And then to all of us, essentially, in the end.” can open an eatery with his partner Luis Fuentes him away from his friends and studies and into a dark secret society. — Vanessa Lawrence within the next few years. BALLET, BABY BUGGY, DE FELICE, SCHIFTER, ZINTERHOFER, CONNOR AND DASH PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; CONNOR AND DASH PHOTOS BY ZINTERHOFER, DE FELICE, SCHIFTER, BUGGY, BABY BALLET, MCMULLAN SAM BOLTON/PATRICK THOMAS IANNACCONE; ALBEMARLE BY AKRIS BY One city + One location = One MAGIC marketplace bringing record results! PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTO BY WWDMAGIC Preview WWDMAGIC 1st Day Coated Stock Supplement: August 15 Section II: August 29 Close: July 11 Close: August 11

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Giorgio Armani Giorgio Armani Diane von Furstenberg

Fluid Dynamics Flowing, easy cuts made for sophisticated looks this season. Giorgio Armani revised his favorite closet staple — the jacket — which he worked in a number of ways, from midriff-baring cutaway styles to cotton lace pieces he paired with prairie skirts and, of course, lots of fluid silk pants. Fluidity was also the operative theme at Diane von Furstenberg, though in her case it had to do with the colorful ocean prints she shaped into her signature wrap dresses, floaty tops and jersey skirts. Peter Som, for his part, sailed away with a chic nautical-inspired collection that included shrunken blazers, pleated shorts and floaty, floral-print tops that emphasized details such as pleats, grosgrain origami belts, naval knots and delicate lace. WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 16, 2005 7 WWD.COM Diane von Furstenberg Peter Som

Peter Som PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND KHEPRI STUDIO JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 16, 2005 WWW.WWD.COM Limited Launches Jeans Denim Dish The Limited will add denim to the mix next month. The Limited Jeans Collection is set to hit all 323 Limited stores on July 11. Elliot Staples, vice president of design for Limited stores, said the company previously focused Victoria Beckham on “wear-to-work” pants, but has now seen growing po- with her Rock & tential in the denim market. Staples said the chain will Republic jeans. concentrate on dressing the consumer, not just for work, but “from Friday to Sunday afternoon.” The denim collection consists of three fits: the Cassidy, a curvier fit with a lower rise; the Drew, a low-rise straight-leg style, and the Sexy Drew, a more snug version featuring a superlow-rise and slim-leg style. The three fits will come in classic five-pocket styles and multiple lengths. A trouser type also will Diamant Jean’s be introduced as a “wear-to-work” style. diamond- The jeans will come in five washes that range studded button. from a clean, light blue shade to a more tinted, dressier version. The jeans will retail in the range of $59.50 to $98. The company declined to provide a projected retail Diamond in the Rough volume for the Limited Jeans Collection. The back pocket will feature a sideways, scripted Bringing premium denim to a new zenith, Paris- letter “L” and in-store images will feature sexy based Diamant Jean’s is a handmade denim line fea- cropped shots of women in Limited Jeans with the ac- turing real diamonds embedded in its buttons. companying slogan, “Get in Our Jeans.” “I wanted to blend a basic product with something “The direction was motivated by just telling our very precious,” said Patrick Mamou, Diamant Jean’s customer what we wanted them to do,” said Stuart owner and creative director, who launched the line de Haan, vice president of marketing for The last year. Limited. “There is no ambivalence.” The denim firm’s baroque prestige collection also —Lauren DeCarlo features red velvet appliqués, embedded pearls, writing in gold thread, waistbands of Thai silk and extravagant buttons, including a detachable diamond and gold button stud that can bring prices to as much as 3,000 euros, or about $3,600 at current exchange. “We have the most expensive jeans on the [world- wide] market,” said Mamou, noting that customers have the option of customizing their own jeans, too. But bargains are also a girl’s best friend, so Diamant recently added an Access line offering slim- fit jeans for women that sell for about 250 euros, or $300. There is also its Rigoletto line for about 350 euros, or $420, at retail, featuring silk and leather trimmings and gold buttons. Diamant Jean’s took center stage this month at the Paris-based department store Galeries Lafayette, where the denim firm is giving shoppers the opportu- nity to customize a pair of jeans. Shoppers may choose from a range of washes, styles and colors of silk embellishments. Meanwhile, Diamant Jean’s will soon introduce a line of shirts and accessories such as cuff links and The Limited Jeans ad that will run in Limited stores. rings. It has also teamed with Swiss watchmaker TAG Heuer, owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis

PHOTO BY ALEXANDRA WYMAN/BERLINER STUDIO/BEIMAGES ALEXANDRA PHOTO BY Vuitton, to design bracelets for a line of watches ex- pected to launch this fall. Beckham Rocks L.A. —Emilie Marsh It wasn’t a bad four days for Kitson owner Fraser Ross recently when Victoria Beckham arrived in Los Angeles to promote her new line. Ross said he racked up $35,000 in sales from the denim-driven collection done in partnership with Rock & Republic. Jeans featuring embroidered crowns on the back pockets and ribbed tanks with cheeky sayings such as “Royal Pain in the Ass” retail from $125 to $220. “The power of celebrity keeps the customer inter- ested,” he said. That relationship is a two-way street for Beckham, A Win for Levi’s formerly Posh Spice, who more than worked the vel- Levi Strauss & Co. has come out on top in a legal bat- vet rope. Decked out in tight jeans barely four tle with a former contract manufacturer in Mexico. Here and below: months after the birth of her third son, Cruz, A civil appellate court in Mexico City on May 31 The look of Beckham signed autographs and chatted with fans, overturned a lower court ruling and vacated a $45 mil- Diamant Jean’s. even staying an extra 45 minutes past her planned lion award in a lawsuit filed by Compania Exportadora two-hour commitment at Kitson. Her sales pitch to de Maquila Comexma. shoppers focused on the fit of the jeans. Comexma filed suit after Levi Strauss conducted an “I haven’t had much of a bum and these are good unauthorized raid on the Mexico City plant in June for me,” she said. “It’ll make your body look fantastic.” 2001. The company’s outside brand protection counsel Rock & Republic co-owner Michael Ball said the in Mexico failed to get proper approval for the raid line is also selling at stores such as Harvey Nichols from Levi Strauss and it turned up no counterfeit goods. in London. He expects it to generate about $2 mil- As part of its lawsuit, Comexma alleged the raid lion. Beckham said she plans to add a men’s and chil- had harmed the manufacturer’s reputation, led to lost dren’s line to the mix. income and contributed to Comexma’s decision to Fashion is nothing new to Beckham, nor to her close the facility. soccer star husband, David. She modeled for On March 7, a trial court agreed with Comexma and Rocawear’s advertising campaign two years ago. awarded the company $24.5 million in direct damages He has helped design a children’s line for Marks and an additional $20.5 million for harm to reputation. & Spencer, and recently developed a line of per- Levi Strauss filed its appeal on March 17. The appel- formance products, including sneakers, boots, late court also awarded it court costs and attorney fees. hooded jackets, jerseys and pants in conjunction “In overturning the lower court’s ruling, the appel- with Adidas. As a result, they like to trade tidbits late court found that there was no direct relationship of advice. between the raid and Comexma’s decision to close “We help each other out,” she said. the facility, that the damages claimed by Comexma In town with her family, Beckham said she was were not caused by the raid and that there was no in- taking the brood to Disneyland after her husband fin- tent by the company to harm the former contractor,” ished promoting his soccer academy in Carson, according to a report filed by Levi Strauss with the Calif., at the Home Depot Center. U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission. —Nola Sarkisian-Miller —Ross Tucker WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 16, 2005 9 WWD.COM The Beat Billabong Surfs Into Times Square By Melanie Kletter

NEW YORK — Surf company Billabong is taking its beach vibe to the street with a new flagship in the heart of Times Square. The 5,800-square-foot space includes two stores, Billabong and Element, a skateboarding brand owned by Billabong. The units have separate entrances on Broadway between West 44th and 45th Streets, but are connected inside. “This location is in the hub of the world and gives Billabong a global showcase,” said Paul Naude, presi- dent of Billabong USA, a subsidiary of the Australian parent firm Billabong International Ltd. “This is both a retail opportunity and a branding opportunity.” The Billabong store, which had a soft opening last month, sells merchandise for young men and women, in- cluding boardshorts, T-shirts, dresses, tank tops and footwear, as well as jewelry and other accessories. Retail prices range from about $20 to $50. There are also denim pieces and tailored shirts. The store has an open and airy feel, with beach motifs such as bamboo and rocks incorporated into the design. Pictures of men and women surfing line the walls, and the music is light and upbeat. The store also sells a selec- tion of Billabong’s other brands, including Von Zipper sunglasses and the Honolua Surf Co. apparel. The Element store has more of an outdoor feel, with darker motifs and hip-hop music playing. Element, which was bought by Billabong in 2001, sells skateboards Billabong now has a flagship in Manhattan and skate shoes, as well as apparel for young women and to showcase its offerings. men. This location marks the first store for the brand, said Travis Ford, general manager of the flagship. Executives declined to give sales projections for the flagship, but Naude said the firm sees it as a significant growth vehicle. Billabong U.S. had sales of about $253 mil- lion last year. The U.S. is the Australian firm’s largest divi- sion and accounts for some 47 percent of overall volume. Billabong has 10 U.S. stores, six of which are compa- ny-owned and four that are licensed. The Times Square store is operated by licensee Ed Leasure, who runs board sport stores in Florida and along the East Coast. Billabong also owns the Honolua Surf Co. chain, as well as Beach Access, another surf chain, which has stores under the Beach Works nameplate. Naude said Billabong has no immediate plans to open other stores. Its goal is to launch select stores to avoid competing with its whole- sale accounts. Billabong’s flagship is just three blocks north of the Times Square store of rival Quiksilver. Other traditional surf brands, including Quiksilver and Op, have been chang- ing to become more lifestyle-oriented and address a crowd beyond the beach. “We see there is a lot of growth in our sector now,” Naude said. “The board-sport sector continues to cap- ture the imagination of the youth market and we don’t see that trend changing. Over the last five years, young Element, located women have been a big growth driver for this industry.” adjacent to The store is to have a grand opening party tonight, Billabong, has a and skateboarders and surfers such as Andy Irons, Mike The store has a light and airy design.T darker motif.

Vallely and Colt Cannon are expected to attend. THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY

Dallas with a budget that was up about 30 percent. She praised 12th Street by Cynthia Vincent’s Victorian Fashion Industry Gallery Market Strikes Gold blouses and a bolero with gold paillettes, and also liked sweaters and leather outerwear items by Ya-Ya. By Holly Haber ket, including Julieri and Double Happiness jewelry. “I thought Wyeth by Todd McGill was absolutely “It was a slow June market, but it was good,” said beautiful,” said Thompson, citing a black silk shantung DALLAS — Buyers went for the gold at the fall and hol- Federico Mariel, a sales representative. “I actually bubble skirt. “It was updated turn-of-the-century. It’s iday market at Fashion Industry Gallery here, which have better numbers than I did last June. People are very forward.” specializes in contemporary resources. still buying items and denim is still important. Marty Lefler filled in fall orders for Lefler’s, his group Gold jewelry and accessories were must-have items Anything embellished did well.” of four family-fashion stores based in Conway, Ark. He at the four-day show that ended June 5, which also high- Raquel Koff, owner of Rodeo Drive in Louisville, Ky., was pleased to find a new premium denim label, Five lighted T-shirts, jeans, embellished skirts and jackets said, “I’m so happy bling is back. People are excited when Seven Five, as well as a line of tank tops and blouses such as boleros and shrugs to layer over long-fitted tops. they come in the store. It’s fun and flashy. I’ve never sold called R Jean Blouse. He also ordered layering tops from Several retailers said business was solid and they so many belts and jewelry and handbags in my life.” Michael Stars and embellished sandals by Mystique. planned to continue stocking embellishment and sparkle Koff picked up gold snake earrings with stones by “Our business has been steady,” he said. “If you have because customers have responded so well to them this Double Happiness and leather handbags with metal what people want, it’s not that big of a problem for them spring. Many came specifically for jewelry, investing in buckles and crystals by Charm and Luck. She also se- to pay the price. The trouble is continually trying to long multistrand and lariat necklaces, bangle bracelets, lected sparkling gold chandelier earrings and bangles find items that really move people. That is the key.” elaborate earrings with semiprecious stones, chunky by Tommassini, chunky Biwa pearl and turquoise chok- Judy Watts, owner of Green Eyed Lady in Marble beads and stones and plenty of charms and pearls. ers by Rhed Lucy, snakeskin bracelets with gold wire- Falls, Tex., reordered My Flat in London’s whimsical T- “We are very pleased with this…show,” said Gavin wrapped stones from Rachel Abroms and skinny se- shirts with crystal crowns and frogs, which she noted Smith, FIG director. “The word is rapidly spreading quined scarves and an embroidered velvet skirt and “sell really quickly.” Watts also placed orders for and stores are recognizing FIG as a destination for bolero by Chan Luu. Bordeaux tops with built-in bras in gold, purple and items, denim, accessories and shoes.” Coming off a strong spring, buyer Liz Thompson was olive, and jewelry by Chan Luu in bone, coconut shell, He said 40 new resources showed at FIG this mar- shopping for holiday sportswear for Premium 93 in leather and metal. 10 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 16, 2005 WWD.COM Active LifestyleX Surge in Swim Lauren Spins a Sport Line May Be Too Late By Melanie Kletter and Marianne Hayes By Melanie Kletter Stretch cotton piqué tank and NEW YORK — The heat wave in the Northeast this NEW YORK — The Lauren by Ralph Lauren label has cotton spandex month brought a much-needed boost to the swim in- stretched into the athletic arena with Lauren Active, a pants from the dustry as consumers finally started shopping for suits. line that melds fashion and function. new Lauren by However, it may be too late for many stores and ven- The better-priced division of Polo Ralph Lauren Ralph Lauren dors to meet seasonal plans. Swimwear sales this began rolling out the line at stores this spring, and it active line. spring have been disappointing, leading to markdowns, will be expanded for fall with a wider selection of prod- especially on the East Coast, where temperatures until ucts and broader distribution, said Kim Roy, president the last few weeks had been cooler than usual. of Lauren by Ralph Lauren. Mark Sidle, president of the Miami-based Swim “Many people were asking for something like this ‘N Sport chain, said the swim season can’t be saved from us,” said Roy in an interview at the Lauren show- by this late surge. The 32-unit company, which sells room at 550 Seventh Avenue here. “We had focus groups brands such as Gottex, Calvin Klein and Christina, with our customers and they were very vocal about was hurt last year by hurricanes in Florida, where wanting this type of product.” many of its stores are based. The collection fuses performance fabrics with “The season is too far gone now,” Sidle said. “Our lifestyle styling and fashion direction from the core sales have absolutely been better over the last few Lauren sportswear line, she noted. The active line is weeks and it goes to show how weather-driven this initially focused on four athletic categories: golf, tennis, category is. But watch what happens when the fitness and spa-yoga. weather cools off.” The new cruise items for Lauren Active have a nauti- Bridget Quinn Stickline, general merchandise cal feel with blue and white colorways, and include mer- manager at the Owings Mills, Md.-based Water Water chandise such as cotton tennis skirts, seamless camisoles Everywhere chain, said business has been slow, but and knit track jackets, as well as terry cloth hooded jack- is starting to pick up. ets, polyester microfiber pants and cable sweaters. There Water Water Everywhere, which has 22 stores and are also cotton jersey tops and yoga pants sells brands such as Anne Cole, Gottex and Ralph made of cotton and spandex. Many of the Lauren, is not marking down yet and is hoping to pieces have performance elements, such Knit raglan match last year’s sales. as mesh pockets in the jackets and fabrics jacket, cotton “Our margins will be fine, but volume is another with wicking properties. tank top story,” Stickline said. “The design is rooted in classic and cotton While there has been a move in the industry to pro- American design, but has a modern and piqué skirt. mote and sell swimsuits year-round, swimwear largely fresh appeal,” Roy said. among the other stores that are remains a seasonal business and stores depend on Wholesale prices for Lauren Active carrying the line this season. It warm temperatures to heat up consumer demand. range from about $15 to $70, Roy said. launched initially in about 100 Women’s swimwear sales She noted the line has a separate logo doors and will grow to 150 doors were about $2.2 billion for from the core Lauren line. While she de- for fall, said Roy, who noted the the 12 months ending in clined to give sales projections, sources line is sold on the polo.com Web April, according to The estimate Active could rack up retail sales site as well. She said the com- NPD Group. of about $30 million in its first year. pany feels Lauren Active could The industry adage is that The line targets the same customers as eventually be in about 300 to if sales aren’t rolling in a sig- the Lauren better-priced sportswear col- 400 doors. The line is sold in 20 nificant way by Memorial lection. In some stores, Lauren Active is Nordstrom stores, said Tonja Day, the season is a bust since sold alongside the core line, but with its Kuntz, Nordstrom’s corporate there will inevitably be mark- own visual displays and hang tags, while in merchandise manager for downs and lower profits. other retailers, such as Nordstrom, the col- women’s activewear. “Cust- Tuesday of this week, lection is housed in the active department. omers want apparel they can when the temperatures Bloomingdale’s and Marshall Field’s are wear for nearly all aspects of climbed to the high 90s, was their lives,” said Kuntz. “This Bloomingdale’s best day yet makes this an appealing catego- of the swim season, said Cotton turtleneck ry for designers to play in.” Frank Doroff, executive and polyester Lauren Active has been ad- vice president of ready-to- technical pants. vertised in magazines such as wear at Bloomingdale’s. Vogue and In Style, and similar marketing for the line “The late-day surge Gottex has been a top will continue in the fall, said Benny Lin, senior vice could be enough to save seller at swim stores president of merchandising and marketing for Lauren. (the season), but the clock this season. The move into activewear is part of a plan to expand is always ticking on you,” he said. the Lauren line, which has been back in the Polo Ralph The late surge in swimwear this year could also Lauren fold since 2003. Lauren sportswear had been affect buying and planning for coming seasons. The made under license by Jones Apparel Group, and Polo’s industry’s biggest swim trade event, SwimShow 2006, decision to take it back in-house resulted in legal action will be held next month and could be a harbinger of that is still pending. lean planning and tighter inventory controls for the Roy said the relaunch of the Lauren line has per- upcoming cruise season. formed ahead of plan and the company continues to ex- For those who are buying, top sellers at retail this pand the brand into new areas. In addition to sports- season are tankinis and separates from junior and wear and activewear, which are made in-house, Lauren contemporary brands. Classic swim brands such as has 11 licenses for products including eyewear, jewelry, Gottex and Jantzen are also selling well. handbags, fragrance and home. Last year, the Lauren Business has been better on the West Coast, which division had sales of about $400 million. The Lauren hasn’t had as much fluctuation in temperatures, and women’s line is sold in about 900 doors, while the petite in general at stores selling upscale brands. and large-size collections are in about 450 doors each. Bergdorf Goodman, for example, has had a strong The company has also said it wanted to open freestand- swimwear season this year, said Robert Burke, senior ing stores under the Lauren label. Roy declined to comment vice president of the fashion office, who noted that sales on the progress of a retail rollout, but said, “We feel we have spiked after June 4 with the onset of the hot weather. a lot of additional opportunities to grow this label.” Among the top swim brands selling at Bergdorf ’s are Polo Ralph Lauren is committed to building its busi- Malia Mills, Karla Colletto and Gottex, as well as design- ness in the athletic arena. The company has signed on er labels including Pucci, Missoni and Gaultier. as the apparel sponsor of the U.S. Open Tennis Julie McMackin, owner of Molly Brown’s, an up- Championships for the next four years, although the scale swim store based in Newport Beach, Calif., Lauren Active line will not be part of that deal, Roy said she has had “an excellent season.” noted. Polo sells performance apparel under its RLX “The East Coast and West Coast seasons are two dif- technical label and also has an extensive golf collection ferent worlds,” she said. “The weather hasn’t hurt us.” under the Ralph Lauren brand. While sales in the Northeast have been difficult, The active arena has seen a number of new designer Bloomingdale’s has seen strong sales in other areas, entrants in recent months, including Stella McCartney Doroff said. “Our business in Florida and California and her new collection with Adidas, as well as Pucci is really strong; business in southern California has and Sir Paul Smith, who have collaborations with been better all along.”

PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA PHOTOS BY Rossignol and Burton, respectively. WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 16, 2005 11 WWD.COM House Committee Approves U.N. Proposes Plan for World’s Poorest Nations GENEVA — The United Nations Conference on could increase LDC exports by an additional $6.4 Trade and Development has proposed a plan to billion, or 10 percent a year.” Draft Legislation for CAFTA help the world’s poorest nations break out of the Lakshmi Puri, director for international trade at cycle of poverty. the UNCTD and author of the plan, said in a news By Kristi Ellis The move also would help accelerate investment conference Tuesday that preferential quota-free opportunities in textiles and apparel manufactur- and duty-free access schemes such as the U.S.’s WASHINGTON — The House Ways and Means Committee ap- ing in poor countries, especially in sub-Saharan African Growth & Opportunity Act and the EU’s proved draft legislation to implement the Central American Free Africa and Southeast Asia, with preferential access Everything But Arms should be guaranteed for a Trade Agreement Wednesday at a hearing where textiles and ap- to lucrative, rich markets such as the United States, minimum of 10 years. parel issues were prominent in the debate. the European Union, Japan and Canada. Under such an accord, AGOA, which provided The House action and a similar move Tuesday by the Senate The proposed plan also calls for bound duty- preferential trade to poor African countries, also Finance Committee set the stage for the Bush administration to free treatment to be granted by developed coun- would be extended to Asian nations such as decide when it will send a final bill to Congress. tries to all commodities and manufactured prod- Bangladesh, Laos and Cambodia. The informal hearings allow lawmakers to make recommenda- ucts from all of the world’s least-developed coun- The U.N. blueprint also envisions technical as- tions to modify provisions in the accord and send signals to the ad- tries. This alone, estimates the UNCTD, “is likely sistance to boost export capacity and infrastructure. ministration on where they stand. The suggestions are not legally to bring welfare gains of as much as $8 billion and — John Zarocostas binding because Congress cannot make amendments to a trade bill. The committee rejected three amendments or recommenda- tions, including one seeking to double the funding for the Trade Adjustment Assistance program, which gives aid to workers who Bush, Europeans to Meet on Economics, Security lose their jobs because of imports, and another seeking to strengthen the labor enforcement provisions in CAFTA. A similar By Evan Clark in promoting democracy in post in Geneva until a successor proposal was voted down in the Senate committee. Ukraine and Lebanon, and are at USTR is named. Opposition to CAFTA is strong, particularly among lawmakers WASHINGTON — President Bush preparing an initiative to pro- U.S. Trade Representative representing the textile and sugar industries and blocs of will meet with a European dele- mote further trans-Atlantic eco- Rob Portman said Allgeier will Democrats who oppose the trade bill’s labor provisions. Retailers gation here Monday to discuss nomic growth and integration,” hit the ground running, since he and importers who favor CAFTA maintain it will give them a greater economic integration be- Barroso said. worked closely with Deily on Western Hemisphere alternative to sourcing in Asia. Other pro- tween the U.S. and Europe, as The summit will help pre- the WTO’s ongoing Doha round ponents believe it will boost export opportunities for U.S. textile well as broader security issues. pare for the Iraq International of trade negotiations, which are and agricultural products to Honduras, Guatemala, Costa Rica, European Commission Conference, co-hosted by the aimed at further liberalizing El Salvador, Nicaragua and the Dominican Republic. President José Manuel Barroso U.S. and EU in Brussels later trade, including a goal of remov- An issue raised by Rep. Jim McDermott (D., Wash.) at the hear- will head the delegation and will next week. ing global tariffs. ing revealed further complications related to a Bush administra- be joined by European Union Also on the international “Ambassador Allgeier super- tion commitment that secured the support of Sen. Elizabeth Dole Trade Commissioner Peter front, Deputy U.S. Trade vised the Washington end of the (R., N.C.) and the National Council of Textile Organizations, a key Mandelson and other officials. Representative Peter Allgeier negotiations and served as the industry association. Relations across the Atlantic, was named the nation’s repre- senior capital-based official in U.S. Trade Representative Rob Portman sent a letter to Dole which were fractured by the war sentative to the World Trade the negotiations,” Portman said. in May, assuring her he would seek to change a provision of the in Iraq, have continued to Organization. He takes the reins “As a result, he is well known at agreement to require that pocketing fabrics come from the U.S. strengthen since Bush was in from Linnet Deily, who had the WTO and will ensure that or the six signatory countries. But McDermott questioned Brussels in February, said been in the post for four years. we have a seamless transition as whether the administration’s proposed change required congres- Barroso in a statement. Allgeier will split his time be- we change our leadership in sional approval. “We have cooperated closely tween his current job and the Geneva.” Angela Ellard, majority staff director for the ways and means trade subcommittee, told McDermott that Congress would have to approve any changes to the rule of origin, including the proposed pocketing change. “Ultimately, Congress retains authority over the rule of ori- gin,” Ellard said. Dole recently said she would vote for CAFTA based on the commitment made by Portman. It is unclear whether the latest HOW TO TURN A SEA OF CONTENT revelation will have a negative impact on how textile-state law- makers vote on the accord, but many are closely weighing the ad- INTO CONTENT YOU CAN SEE ministration’s commitments to the textile industry. Any amendments have to be approved by the countries in- Access over 80,000 articles in the WWD.com Archive in less volved in the deal and the Latin American leaders have not com- mitted to the proposed change. A call to the USTR office seeking than 8 seconds. Researching the industry has never been easier. clarification on whether the change would need congressional approval was not returned. On another textile and apparel issue, Rep. Bill Thomas (R., SPECIAL OFFER: For a limited time try the Calif.), chairman of the House Ways and Means Committee, re- ceived assurances from USTR Wednesday that the agency would WWD Archive for only $295 for three months!* closely monitor a pledge made by Nicaragua to preserve current U.S. orders and not replace them with an allowance they obtained in CAFTA that permits limited use of foreign fabric and yarns. “If the direction [Nicaragua] moves in is the wrong direction, we’ll be notified?” he asked deputy USTR Peter Allgeier. “We want an early warning system in place and not an after-the-fact pronouncement.”

Prada Parent in Loan Deal MILAN — A fresh injection of cash is giving Prada a breather. The luxury goods group said Wednesday that ITMD Investments B.V., the company that controls Prada, signed a loan agreement with a pool of Italian banks — Banca Intesa, Unicredito, Centrobanca and Banca Popolare di Lodi — that will provide funding for 800 million euros, or $960 million at current exchange. The company declined to provide further details, namely when the new loan will need to be repaid. The funds will help Prada meet its most pressing deadline, a bond of 700 million euros, or $840 million, due to expire on Monday. The bond was issued in December 2001 by Deutsche Bank on behalf of ITMD Investments, following Prada’s spending spree in the late Nineties, when it added brands such as Jil Sander and Helmut Lang to its stable. At the end of May, Prada declined to release debt figures when reporting its year-end results. Net financial debt stood at To subscribe go to wwd.com/go/archive or call 212 630-4213. 675 million euros, or $810 million, at the end of 2003. The compa- ny had set a goal to reduce its debts to less than 300 million euros, or $360 million, by the end of 2004. *offer limited to new subscribers only 12 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 16, 2005 WWD.COM No doubt about it: New York City is alive with retail activity. Various corridors across the island of Manhattan are hot, and though others have cooled, it’s not TheWWDList because they’re less interesting. In The Real Estate Board of New York’s spring 2005 report, some of the smaller corridors, such as 57th Street and Broadway, between 42nd and 47th Street, witnessed a decrease in their average asking prices for rent per square foot. But, as Michael Slattery, vice president of REBNY, pointed out, “It’s not necessarily because their demand is smaller. Oftentimes, the The Streets of New York corridors are more attractive, higher-price spaces. The availability isn’t as great at the time of the report as it is for other locales.” Manhattan’s average asking Major retail corridors in Manhattan and their changes in asking rents per square foot. rent for all space rose 6 percent to $103 per square foot. — Cecily Hall DOWNTOWN: BROADWAY, BETWEEN BATTERY PARK AND CHAMBERS STREETS Change in average asking price*: 44.9 percent 2005: $126; 2004: $87 The lower end of Broadway, near Battery Park, is witnessing more openings in its available retail space. So far, retailers such as Borders and Nine West 1 have snatched up space in the area, which is making up for the retail losses in the World Trade Center, just west of this corridor. “What’s happening is that the foot traffic is picking up, the stability is coming back. People are anticipating retail’s return to the Trade Center site,” said REBNY’s Slattery. UPPER MANHATTAN: HARLEM, 125TH STREET, RIVER TO RIVER Change in average asking price: 38.5 percent 2005: $90; 2004: $65 From the Hudson River to the East River, 125th Street has been privy to new retailers, as well. Stores such as H&M have moved in, as has the Harlem 2 USA mall, a $65 million complex complete with a nine-screen Magic Johnson Theater multiplex. “The incomes of the population are higher nowadays, but north of 96th Street is still an affordable location,” said Slattery. “It’s the ideal combination: Retailers can afford the space and still be profitable.” FLATIRON: FIFTH AVENUE, BETWEEN 14TH AND 23RD STREETS Change in average asking price: 38 percent 2005: $189; 2004: $137 Everything from Gap and Daffy’s to Club Monaco and Anthropologie is found in Flatiron. But the lure could be that it’s not as crowded with tourists as 3 some other areas. This shopping corridor has witnessed retail movement with its tenants in recent years. Last September, Esprit filled the store at 16th Street that once was Emporio Armani, and Coach expanded its Fifth Avenue location last year, having taken over next-door tenant Citibank. SOHO: BROADWAY, BETWEEN HOUSTON AND BROOME STREETS Change in average asking price: 30.9 percent 2005: $212; 2004: $162 This district in lower Manhattan has seen increased demand in its asking rental prices, thanks in part to the influx of upscale retailers that have moved 4 in — such as Bloomingdale’s, which opened its SoHo location in 2004. Dean & Deluca and Balthazar (at Prince Street) make for welcome pit stops during a day of shopping. The cool crowd will wander slightly off Broadway toward hip upscale shops such as Marc Jacobs, D&G and Louis Vuitton. TRIBECA: HUDSON STREET, BETWEEN CHAMBERS AND CANAL STREETS Change in average asking price: 27.8 percent 2005: $69; 2004: $54 Robert De Niro’s beloved TriBeCa witnessed an increase in its retail rental asking prices over the past year. De Niro has opened the Tribeca Film 5 Center, Tribeca Grill (near Hudson) and Nobu. The Loft Residences at 116 Hudson — which also plans to offer retail space — is his latest undertaking. Slattery pointed out that retailers have even further incentive to open up their shops in an area if residential opportunities are also a possibility. TIMES SQUARE: SEVENTH AVENUE, BETWEEN 42ND AND 47TH STREETS Change in average asking price: 18.1 percent 2005: $320; 2004: $271 What better place to open up shop than in the tourist-heavy Times Square area? Along this strip of Seventh Avenue are retailers such as 6 Quiksilver and hotels such as the Marriott’s Renaissance New York Hotel Times Square. Smack in the center of the corridor stands the Theater Development Fund’s TKTS discount Broadway tickets booth, attracting an estimated 750,000 visitors a year to the area. MIDTOWN: FIFTH AVENUE, BETWEEN 49TH AND 59TH STREETS Change in average asking price: 3.5 percent 2005: $742; 2004: $717 Fifth Avenue has long been known as one of New York’s busier retail corridors, with countless retailers — just take a look at that asking price, 7 which is the highest of this bunch. And two of the city’s most well-known department stores also reside in this particular section of town: Bergdorf Goodman’s presence at 58th Street and Fifth Avenue has been felt since 1928, and Saks Fifth Avenue has lived at 49th Street since 1924. UPPER WEST SIDE: BROADWAY, BETWEEN 72ND AND 86TH STREETS Change in average asking price: -2.1 percent 2005: $233; 2004: $238 With Lincoln Center to the south and Columbia University to the north, Broadway’s 14-block stretch along the Upper West Side has the 8 potential to attract shoppers of all ages. Retailers such as Victoria’s Secret, L’Occitane and Banana Republic all can be found here, while popular food stores such as Zabar’s, Citarella and Fairway bring in the hungry shoppers. MADISON AVENUE, BETWEEN 57TH AND 67TH STREETS

Change in average asking price: -4.9 percent 2005: $667; 2004: $701 JAMES LEYNSE/CORBIS BY HEADQUARTERS JAMES LEYNSE/CORBIS; LVMH BIS; VIRGIN MEGASTORE BY The asking price is down just slightly for Madison Avenue, arguably the most upscale avenue of retailers. This part of town still has the second- BY ZABAR’S PETER KRAMER/GETTY; ALAN SCHEIN/CORBIS; BERGDORF BY BY MAASS/CORBIS; TIMES SQUARE Y ROBERT 9 highest average asking rent of any other major retail corridor in the city. Shoe and accessories boutiques are well represented, with Cole Haan and Jimmy Choo taking retail spaces. Other boutiques in the area include Fred Leighton (jewelry), and Givenchy, Luca Luca and Chanel (clothing). UPPER EAST SIDE: THIRD AVENUE, BETWEEN 60TH AND 72ND STREETS Change in average asking price: -5.2 percent 2005: $183; 2004: $193 If shoppers aren’t crazy about the pricy boutiques along Madison Avenue, they can head east to Third Avenue, where Ann Taylor Loft, Gap and 10 Eddie Bauer await them. The area also caters to expecting and new parents, with stores such as Mimi Maternity, The Children’s Place and Gymboree. Once the kids are dressed, take them to Dylan’s Candy Bar, a family-friendly candy shop at Third Avenue and 60th Street. TIMES SQUARE: 42ND STREET, BETWEEN SIXTH AND EIGHTH AVENUES Change in average asking price: -7.7 percent 2005: $156; 2004: $169 Theaters, restaurants and museums line this strip of 42nd Street, which was once well-known for its slew of peep shows. Nowadays, 42nd Street 11 is more child- and family-friendly. The stores themselves are more of the touristy type, including Starbucks, Cold Stone Creamery, Lids and Ya nkee Clubhouse Store. Madame Tussauds wax museum and Loews and AMC Movie Theaters have locations here, as well. MIDTOWN SOUTH: 34TH STREET, BETWEEN FIFTH AND SEVENTH AVENUES Change in average asking price: -8.4 percent 2005: $240; 2004: $262 This corridor of 34th Street offers a little of everything. With landmarks such as The Empire State Building, Penn Station and Madison Square 12 Garden nearby, there is constant activity. Macy’s itself stretches along the north side of one entire block, from Sixth to Seventh Avenues. Manhattan Mall, just off 34th at Sixth Avenue, houses more than 50 stores, just across the street from Gap and Victoria’s Secret flagships. TIMES SQUARE: BROADWAY, BETWEEN 42ND AND 47TH STREETS Change in average asking price: -16.9 percent 2005: $331; 2004: $398 What isn’t happening in this busy corridor nowadays? Between the popular tenants of Virgin Megastore, Sephora and Toys ‘R’ Us on Broadway, and the 13 historic Howard Johnson’s Restaurant closing to give way to new stores, retail life sure is booming around Times Square. Just north of this corridor at 48th Street, 1600 Broadway soon will see a luxury residential high-rise, with at least one floor of retail space, according to the Times Square Alliance. MIDTOWN: 57TH STREET, BETWEEN FIFTH AND PARK AVENUES Change in average asking price: -37.2 percent 2005: $534; 2004: $850 Though 57th Street’s asking price has decreased the most, it is one of the smaller retail corridors in Manhattan. Slattery also noted, “Change in price 14 can also depend on available space. And less availability can be the sign of a good market.” This section of Midtown holds more than just upscale retailers such as Burberry and Christian Dior: Offices such as the North American headquarters of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton are here, too. WER BROADWAY PHOTO BY LEE SNIDER/CORBIS; 125TH STREET BY SPENCER PLATT/GETTY; FLATIRON BY GAIL MOONEY/CORBIS; TRIBECA GRILL B BY FLATIRON SPENCER PLATT/GETTY; LEE SNIDER/CORBIS; 125TH STREET BY PHOTO BY WER BROADWAY LO ERIK FREELAND/COR LUCIER/GETTY LAWRENCE IMAGES; 42ND STREET BY OLIVIA; BY DYLAN’S BAUMGARTNER HOLMES/CORBIS; GIVENCHY BY ROBERT SOURCE: THE REAL ESTATE BOARD OF NEW YORK, SPRING 2005 RETAIL REPORT. *ASKING PRICE IS AS OF MARCH 2005, PER SQUARE FOOT, AVAILABLE GROUND FLOOR SPACE ONLY. Who do you think a national sunglass chain called when it needed an expansion strategy?

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Continued from page one David Dyer and Karl Lagerfeld This latest development is unrelated to the investigation by the U.S. Attorney’s Office into Hilfiger’s buying office commissions, which has resulted in 11 purported shareholder class-action lawsuits against the company as well as current and former officers and directors of the firm. Hilfiger said Wednesday it intends to “defend itself vigorously” against the shareholders’ claims, which have since been consolidated. With respect to the U.S. Attorney’s Office investigation, the THLI matter and other tax issues, Hilfiger expects to record net provisions of $30 million to $40 million. The company said it can’t predict the ultimate impact these matters or the securities class-action lawsuit may have on its business, financial condition, results of opera- tion, cash flow or historical financial statements. In this regard, Hilfiger hasn’t com- pleted its required analysis as to whether any restatement or adjustments would be required under generally accepted accounting principles. The company said it has delayed filing its fourth-quarter and full-year financial statements with the Securities and Exchange Commission due to the government’s in- vestigation. The reports are expected to be filed on or before Aug. 10. Hilfiger said that fiscal 2005 preliminary pretax income dropped 45.9 percent on a revenue decrease of 4.9 percent. The company revised its fiscal 2006 earnings and sales outlooks, citing in part a decline in orders from U.S. department stores. Tommy Hilfiger For the 12 months ended March 31, the firm said preliminary pretax income to- on “The Cut.” taled $92 million, compared with $170 million the year prior. Results in the latest year included expenses totaling $36 million related to legal fees; exiting the young men’s and H Hilfiger wholesale businesses; a restructuring of the company’s wholesale business, and the closing of the company’s Secaucus, N.J., facility. Income from operations fell 42.4 percent to $114 million in the year from $198 mil- lion. Revenues in the year fell to $1.8 billion from $1.9 billion a year ago. The company disclosed that fourth-quarter net revenues were $492 million, down 3.5 percent from $510 million in the same period a year ago. Tommy Hilfiger Europe posted fourth-quarter revenue of approximately $200 million, compared with $164 million a year ago. In fiscal 2006, Hilfiger expects net revenues to decrease in the mid-single digits, while pretax income is seen increasing by 30 to 35 percent. The anticipated decline in net revenues released Wednesday is slightly larger than the initial outlook in February due to anticipated order reductions by U.S. department stores and the recent decline in the value of the euro against the U.S. dollar, the company said in a statement. Shares of Tommy Hilfiger Corp. rose 96 cents, or 8.5 percent, to close at $12.20 on the New York Stock Exchange Wednesday. Discussing the results during a conference call Wednesday, David F. Dyer, presi- dent and chief executive officer of Hilfiger, said: “Fiscal 2005 was a challenging year, Several cast and while our results fell short of our initial plan, we made significant strides in ac- members of complishing many of the objectives we set out to achieve.” Among those were restruc- “T“Thehe Cut,” turing its U.S. wholesale business, growing its European operations and revitalizing on CBS. its product assortment. He explained the company took “an important first step in evolving into a multi- TOMMY M. RUSSELL/CBS DAVID CAST BY JAMES DEVANEY/WIREIMAGE; BY BLANKENHORN/CBS; DYER CRAIG PHOTO BY brand enterprise” with the acquisition of the Karl Lagerfeld brand. Dyer said the On the other hand, international wholesale revenue for fiscal 2005 rose to approxi- company plans to launch a small capsule collection of Karl Lagerfeld women’s and mately $526 million from $430 million, driven by both increased volume and higher men’s wear for spring 2006, followed by a full-fledged launch in fall 2006. The collec- foreign currency exchange rates in Europe and Canada. tion will target top-tier specialty and department stores. Retail revenue for fiscal 2005 increased to about $501 million from $426 million in the Further, he said Hilfiger has diversified its distribution channels by launching an prior year. Licensing revenue rose to approximately $74 million for fiscal 2005 from $63 e-commerce platform that will begin in July. It has also repositioned its H Hilfiger million for the prior year, due to the company’s international licensees, the translation of better line from the wholesale channel to a retail concept and plans to open four new the strong euro and Japanese yen and the strength in the fragrance and home businesses. H Hilfiger stores by February 2006. For the first time in several years, the company For fiscal 2006, the company expects U.S. wholesale revenue to decline approxi- has achieved positive comparable-store sales in its U.S. outlet stores, added Dyer. mately 30 percent from $684 million in fiscal 2005, partly due to the closing of its young Although Hilfiger reduced its selling, general and administrative expenses in the men’s jeans and wholesale H Hilfiger businesses. The company expects an overall de- U.S. by approximately $60 million in the last 18 months, it still needs to improve prof- crease in its continuing U.S. women’s, men’s and children’s businesses in the mid-20 itability, said Dyer. percent range due to changes in the buying patterns of U.S. departments stores. Turning to the women’s area, Dyer said the firm remains on target to introduce a Dyer added, “I’m more interested in running a small, very profitable business than casual career line for women for spring 2006 under the Tommy Hilfiger Crest label. a large business that is marginally profitable.” He said the juniors’ business is improving, and there has been strength in denim in On an upbeat note, Dyer believes that “The Cut,” Hilfiger’s new reality series on the misses’ division. CBS, will have a positive impact on the firm’s business. He said the debut episode According to Dyer, the company’s top initiatives for fiscal 2006 are: was the second most-watched program on CBS last Thursday night, following “CSI,” ● Allocate resources to sustain the positive momentum in Europe. and “even beat the NBA playoffs.” ● Position the U.S. wholesale business for growth. “To have that brand exposure on a national basis for the next 12 weeks is pretty good ● Expand the U.S. outlet store base. for the brand,” he said. He also anticipates that the new fragrance launch, True Star Men, ● Develop viable U.S. retail concepts. featuring spokesman Enrique Iglesias, will have a positive impact on the brand. “There ● Expand the e-commerce platform. are a lot of great things going on that will help drive sales for the fall period,” said Dyer. ● Continue to rationalize U.S. infrastructure. As for the U.S. Attorney’s investigation, Dyer said reports were presented to the Dyer said retail, e-commerce and the Karl Lagerfeld business are expected to be board in March and then to the U.S. Attorney’s Office in April. The special committee “major contributors to our profits and growth in the future.” of independent directors has found that the company had a “good faith basis for “Finding a valid retail concept is very important to our future,” added Dyer. In adopting the buying office commission rate” paid by the company’s subsidiaries to fact, he pointed out that the firm’s Canadian and European businesses have a “more Tommy Hilfiger Eastern Hemispheres Ltd. balanced” portfolio of retail and wholesale operations. In addition, Dyer said it was “After the special committee made its report in May 2005, the company initiated imperative “not to put all our eggs in one basket,” and having a diverse business will discussion with the U.S. Attorney’s Office about the possible resolution of the investi- result in future success. gation on a civil basis,” said Dyer. He said it also initiated discussions with the Inland “Europe,” he said, will continue to grow “by double-digit increases for the next Revenue Department in Hong Kong to resolve any issues concerning whether Tommy several years.” Dyer said the company hasn’t tapped Eastern Europe and Hilfiger Eastern Hemisphere is subject to profits tax in Hong Kong. Scandinavia yet, which represent “tremendous opportunity,” and Hilfiger has taken Dyer said the court has consolidated the shareholders’ class-action lawsuits and back its Italian distributorship. “Europe is a well-oiled machine, and we’re doing named a lead counsel and lead plaintiffs. He said the lead plaintiff filed an amended many things right. There are other opportunities to grow, too, and to have more im- complaint on May 13 and under the court’s scheduling orders, Hilfiger has until July pact on our P&Ls as we look at more European areas,” said Dyer. 15 to answer or move to dismiss the complaint. Dyer added that the firm continues to seek acquisitions to improve both its top and In another tax development, Hilfiger has filed for a refund for related tax pay- bottom lines, but hasn’t seen anything that fits the bill in the marketplace. ments it has made to New Jersey. During fiscal 2003, the state of New Jersey institut- Elaborating on its disappointing U.S. wholesale performance in fiscal 2005, Dyer ed an Alternative Minimum Assessment. Hilfiger included the AMA in its provisions said the business was negatively impacted by door reductions and decreased orders for income taxes and began to make related tax payments to the state. Prior to filing on comparable doors from the company’s major customers. U.S. wholesale revenue its fiscal 2004 New Jersey state income tax return in December 2004, Hilfiger deter- for fiscal 2005 declined to approximately $684 million from $958 million in the prior mined that the AMA wasn’t properly applied and that the company’s obligations for year. Major department stores reduced their orders for the company’s women’s wear, AMA were less than previously estimated. After discussions with the state of New men’s wear and children’s wear. The decline, however, was partially offset by higher Jersey, the company has filed for a refund. average unit prices, especially in women’s wear and children’s wear. — With contributions from Meredith Derby Sink or Swim.

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For more information, please contact Gus Floris, associate publisher, at 212-630-4636; Kathy Nelson, West Coast account executive, at 323-951-1805, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 16 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 16, 2005 WWD.COM Queen Latifah Ups Her Curvation Profile Women’s Apparel Sees By Karyn Monget Queen Latifah Prices Dip Year-on-Year NEW YORK — Entertainment diva Queen Latifah is ex- By Evan Clark panding her role in the world of lingerie as a creative con- sultant for design, packaging, advertising and marketing WASHINGTON — Women’s retail apparel prices of the $100 million Curvation brand at VF Intimates. held steady last month and were down 2 percent The Grammy Award winner and Academy Award nomi- from a year ago, a U.S. Department of Labor re- nee will appear today at a media event at the VF port said. Intimates offices here to discuss her “love of intimate ap- So far this year, price tags on women’s appar- parel” and her partnership with the full-busted Curvation el increased 0.6 percent, according to the bra and shapewear brand, for which she has been a Consumer Price Index released Wednesday. spokeswoman since 2002. Changes for the month and year-to-date are ad- As part of an exclusive contract, which VF executives justed for seasonal variations, while year-ago believe could have the potential to last 21 years, Latifah figures are unadjusted. will continue to appear in consumer advertising, but for Retail prices on all goods fell 0.1 percent the first time, her image will appear on Curvation pack- during the month, the first drop since July. aging and point-of-sale materials. The contract, which Retail sales also dipped last month, declining comprises seven three-year agreements, also includes ap- 0.5 percent to $343.62 billion, according to a re- parel and accessories products bearing the Queen port from the Commerce Department. Latifah name and image. Ken Goldstein, an economist at the Con- The brand is sold at Wal-Mart, Kmart and ShopKo ference Board, said pricing power is improving stores, addressing a hip, fashion-conscious, full-busted slowly. customer, Latifah told WWD Wednesday. In addition to “The economy is slowing, but it’s going to slow hosting the Curvation event and a photo shoot for to about a 3 to 3.5 [percent] pace, which isn’t Curvation products this week, Latifah said she was here bad,” Goldstein said. “That’s sort of average.” to wrap up a photo shoot for Covergirl cosmetics and a Goldstein said he expects the Federal shoot for the annual music edition of Vanity Fair maga- Reserve to continue to raise interest rates. The zine in November. Federal Open Market Committee meets June 29 “That old term, ‘full-figured’ — we don’t give that any and 30 and is expected to raise its benchmark credence anymore, and 60 million women agree with me,” interest rate to 3.25 percent from 3 percent. said Latifah, who wears sewn-in strapless Curvation bras Overall apparel prices were flat last month underneath evening gowns and sewn-in Curvation bras and down 0.8 percent from May 2004. underneath blouses. “This is all about being sexy, beauti- Within the women’s category, outerwear prices ful and confident, whether it’s looking sporty or dressy. rose 4.7 percent in May, but were down 4.1 percent Women don’t want to be buying a big piece of fabric that’s from a year ago. Dresses increased 2.9 percent TIFAH PHOTO BY ARNOLD TURNER/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY TIFAH cut all wrong.” LA and were up 4.8 percent against a year ago, while She was referring to 60 million American women who ways tried to carry myself in a confident way.” suits and separates slid 0.7 percent and were wear a dress size 14 and over, according to NPDFashion- Latifah will be taking Curvation’s aspirational initia- down 5 percent in the 12 months. Prices in a com- world data. tive to a new level at the Sugar Water Festival, which bined category that includes nightwear, sports- Regarding her creative input, Latifah, who works kicks off July 8 in Virginia Beach, Va. It includes musical wear and accessories slid 0.8 percent for the with Curvation’s director of merchandising, Berna artists Erykah Badu and Jill Scott and will be staged in 20 month and were up 2.3 percent from May 2004. Goldstein, said: “I want to bring Curvation to the peo- cities before concluding in Los Angeles on Aug. 10. There ple. Just because it has the Queen Latifah name on it, also will be a nationwide search called The Curvation doesn’t mean it will automatically sell. I want to make Project Confidence Awards to recognize women who per- sure it’s a quality product women want to wear. We’re all sonify the power of confidence, she said. collaborating on this project. Part of being a good part- “It’s about women who make a difference in other St. Moritz, Britton Hit ner is knowing when to listen and not demand. I’m will- women’s lives and their own lives,” she said. “To partici- ing to learn and VF definitely knows what it’s doing pate, they can log on to the curvation.com Web site and when it comes to apparel.” write stuff on the Curvation Nation blog. The Confidence With Suits by Cartier The actress, who has starred in films including “Bring- Awards will take place in early 2006.” ing Down the House” and “Beauty Shop” and was nomi- As for VF’s 21-year commitment, Kurt A. Holtz, presi- NEW YORK — Cartier filed a complaint against nated for best supporting actress in “Chicago,” said she dent of the VF Intimates Coalition, said, “This long-term St. Moritz Watch Corp. and Britton Jewelry al- acquired her marketing skills with her business partner commitment is a sign we are extremely confident with the leging trade dress, trademark infringement and and their company, Flavor Unit Entertainment. Curvation brand and Queen Latifah. We’ve set up a struc- breach of contract. “We’ve marketed half of our movies,” she said. “Mark- ture to maximize that opportunity well into the future.” The complaint was filed in the U.S. District eting is something we’ve always connected to the street, Anne Jardine, vice president of VF Intimates busi- Court, Southern District of New York by Cartier whether it’s someone who makes $25,000 or $250,000.” ness development, said, “We believe this has global po- International B.V. and Cartier, a division of “The idea of confidence” is the marketing platform for tential. We’ve had tremendous interest in the concept Richemont North America. The suit alleged the Curvation brand and product, she said, adding, outside of the U.S. It’s not just about a bra or a panty. that St. Moritz represented its St. Moritz brand “Confidence is very important to me, and that’s part of the The concept is wrapped up in a wonderful language for as Tank watches in advertising and sales of the reason Curvation wanted to work with me, because I’ve al- curvaceous women.” product. Tank and Tank Americaine are Cartier trademarks. The two companies had reached an agree- ment a few years ago where St. Moritz would stop using the Tank mark, according to Ethan Fed: Weather, Fuel Cloud Retail Picture Horwitz of Goodwin Procter LLP, Cartier’s attor- ney, but the suit alleges they did not adhere to WASHINGTON — High fuel prices and unseasonable The Beige Book found broad improvement in labor that agreement. A secondary part of the action weather spurred mixed retail activity from mid-April conditions and some shortages of skilled workers in alleged trademark and trade dress violations of through May, according to anecdotal evidence collected fields such as construction in Atlanta and San Francisco Cartier’s Himalaya trademark through author- by the Federal Reserve’s Beige Book report released or energy workers in Dallas. ized online dealers. Britton Jewelry is one of St. Wednesday. Tourism across the country remained positive, with Moritz’s authorized dealers. The report, which offers a glimpse of conditions New York showing exceptional strength. Manhattan’s “We’re actively going after everybody who is across the Fed’s 12 districts, found consumer spending hotel occupancy rate was more than 2 percentage points using Tank as well as a number of other marks picked up in Kansas City and San Francisco, among higher in April than a year earlier and average room of ours. This is part of a continuing process to other districts, but was uneven in Atlanta and Cleveland, rates jumped 17 percent. clean up the marketplace,” Horwitz said. and down in Philadelphia. Improvement in the labor market in most areas of the As described in the complaint, Cartier seeks Similar results were seen in same-store sales for May, country likely supported the increased travel and a permanent injunction against St. Moritz from released by the retailers themselves earlier this month. helped prop up sales at stores. In all, the economy using the Tank, Himalaya or other Cartier Thirty-four of the 49 chains tracked by WWD posted added 78,000 jobs in May and 274,000 in April. trademarks. The complaint also asks for all rises in same-stores sales for the month, with specialty Most of the country reported that manufacturing ac- signs, labels, promotional material and adver- stores generally outpacing the department stores and tivity expanded in May and late April, though concerns tising material to be given to them to be de- discounters. over higher fuel costs remained, said the report. Some stroyed. The complaint asked for an unspeci- In the New York district, retailers said cool weather districts said manufacturers had to assume rising raw fied amount of money in damages. slowed sales of summer clothing and swimwear. material costs due to long-term contracts and pressures This complaint follows a counterfeit and Cosmetics, jewelry and accessories sales, however, from imports. trademark infringement lawsuit filed by Cartier were strong. Despite an overall expansion in manufacturing activ- against Silverspot.com. As reported in the June In the Minneapolis district, a North Dakota mall man- ity, textiles and apparel producers have generally con- 14 issue of WWD, the luxury firm alleged that ager said April sales grew more than 7 percent from a tinued to wane as cheaper goods from overseas grab a the online retail Web site was selling counter- year ago. A Minneapolis area mall manager, however, larger share of the U.S. market and plants close. feit Cartier jewelry. described traffic as quiet. — E.C. — Liza Casabona WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 16, 2005 17 Obituary WWD.COM Celebrity Hairstylist John Sahag, 52 NEW YORK — Celebrity hairstylist and salon owner John diluting products. So I decided to find that mad professor, and Sahag, 52, lost a three-year battle with cancer on Wednesday. create a line where we didn’t make any compromises.” In 2000, Born Jean Sahag Jamgotchian in Beirut, the legendary hairstyl- he successfully expanded the line to the U.K. ist spent most of his childhood in Australia, where his couturier fa- While keeping busy with his products and salon, Sahag contin- ther, Atum, had moved his family after civil war broke out in 1958. ued to do numerous editorial shoots, ready-to-wear shows and Sahag got his start in hairstyling at the age of 14 when his commercial campaigns. Over the years, he styled a number of work was recognized in a major editorial feature in The celebrities as well, a list that included Liv Tyler, Jennifer Aniston, Sydney Morning Herald. At 18, Sahag moved to Paris to learn Melanie Griffith, Gwyneth Paltrow and Isabella Rossellini. his trade and began to build a career as a celebrated editorial He won numerous accolades from the professional and con- stylist, immediately scoring an editorial credit in Italian Vogue sumer beauty industries, including the 1999 Beauty Editors’ and working with top fashion photographers including Choice Award from Cosmetics Executive Women. Annemarie Richard Avedon, Patrick Demarchelier, Helmut Newton, Iverson, then beauty and fashion news director at Harper’s Irving Penn and Albert Watson. Bazaar, called Sahag “a beauty icon and heartthrob hairdresser. Next, Sahag took on New York, opening his signature salon, He’s the Mick Jagger of hair — one of the world’s greatest cutters.” The John Sahag Workshop, in 1985. It was there where he de- Sarah Ferguson, then the Duchess of York and a guest at veloped his signature “dry-cut” method of haircutting, a metic- that event, was later overheard asking, “John, what can you do ulous strand-by-strand shaping technique. “I didn’t create the with my hair?” technique to be different, but because that’s how I got the best Sahag is survived by his parents, Atum and Hatum results,” he told WWD in 1998. The technique, he said, allowed Jamgotchian; a sister, Mary Jamgotchian, and three brothers, him to see exactly how hair fell, yielding more precise cuts. Hoveness, Andre and Jack Jamgotchian. Private funeral serv- In 1998, Sahag launched a eponymous product line consist- ices will be held on Saturday. ing of shampoos, conditioners, frizz-taming styling shapers, In lieu of flowers, the family asks that donations be made to hairsprays and glosses distributed in more than 50,000 U.S. sa- the American Cancer Society. lons. As he said at the time, “I always found myself mixing or — Julie Naughton Luxe Pack Gains Foothold in N.Y. By Matthew W. Evans Heinz showed the Vera Wang Sheer Veil bottle, whose base was sprayed so that a lavender hue radiates up NEW YORK — The third time proved the charm last through the scent. Speaking of spraying, Pochet week for Luxe Pack New York. sprayed the base of the Island Michael Kors bot- It was the prestige packaging show’s third year tle to give the scent a hue of blue-green tropi- — and, to organizers’ delight, the crowd of ex- cal water. Also, the glass is shaped in a wave hibitors was up 20 percent to 60 companies, while pattern. attendance was up 16 percent to 1,414 visitors. “A lot of things are being added to glass it- “The third year is the crucial year,” said self,” said John Marsden, vice president of sales Christophe Czajka, president of Editions Tech- at Pochet of America, “[like] weight, to give it a niques de l’Automobile et de l’Industrie, which owns substantial [feel].” Other decorations include and operates the Luxe Pack series of trade shows, aerated glass, which features bubbles through including Luxe Pack Monaco and Luxe Pack the glass — think Tommy Bahama for Men Art Spiro, Susan Wells, Marc Rosen, Kate Oldham, Nathalie São Paulo, Brazil. In mid-April, ETAI ac- — and metal nameplates, as in the Grosdidier, general manager of Luxe Pack, and Don Ziccardi. quired Idice Monaco, the parent com- case of Viktor & Rolf ’s Flower which when disturbed by, say, the act of unscrewing pany of Luxe Pack. Bomb. the cap, gives off the aroma of leather — or lemon, “We’re at a crossroads [in New Saint-Gobain Desjonqueres strawberry or chocolate for that matter. York] but we’re on an upward trend showed off its glass creations, in- France’s Ileos Group was well represented last week and very happy,” said Czajka. “Growth cluding bottles for scents like Paris by its multiple subsidiaries. Alliora, for one, unveiled is slow but steady.” On Tuesday and Hilton, Parfums Christian Dior’s cartons featuring its new lenticular printing method, Wednesday of last week, at the Pure Poison, Baby Phat by which gives the appearance of holograph-like move- Metropolitan Pavilion here, packaging Kimora Lee Simmons and Tommy ment. Yasmin F. Siddiqi, DuPont’s global cosmetics mar- executives from fragrance and cosmetics Hilfiger’s True Star Men. SGD’s ket strategy manager, noted that DuPont’s Elvaloy — a marketing companies hunted for innova- director of sales, Shéhérazade tactile, soft touch coating on bottles and paperboard tions in packaging and delivery systems. Chamlou, noted that major trends “is newer in the [cosmetics] industry.” The bottles, tubes, pumps, cartons and in glass production Other highlights of the show in- labels made up a floor full of components include “colored cluded a presentation by Françoise in all of their shadings. Among the innova- glass, hot stamping BEAUTY BEAT Serralta, trend research manager and tions was Alcan Packaging’s dual-ended, [of graphics] and strategic planner at Pechlers Paris, cylindrical container for skin care formula- spraying on of a lot of decoration.” the styling agency. She explored four trends, “Dis- tions. The item, which is produced by the Pfeiffer of America introduced two turbing Appeal,” or experimentation with new combi- company formerly known as TechPack, new “super low profile” pumps, nations of colors, textures, eras and genres; “Holistic employs a small spatula on each end for dubbed Inspiration and Progress, Humanism,” which is typified by silence, poetry and the application of treatment product which are designed to prevent con- high-sensation tactile effects; “Performance and around sensitive areas like the eyes. tact between metal parts and Elegance,” which she called visionary boldness Also, pump manufacturer Valois in- product formulations in order to through graphics, colors and designs, and “Exploring troduced different sizes of its so- help prevent contamination. Hyper-reality,” or variations in volumes and infinite called “airless” pump bottle, dubbed When it comes to plastics, modularity. Titan. The package is designed for a Dapy Paris showed off the highly Additionally, there was a panel moderated by Marc masculine look and intended for men’s detailed, two-piece “corset” that Rosen, president of Marc Rosen Associates, which was grooming formulations, according to dresses the Jean Paul Gaultier themed “Packaging: That’s Advertainment.” The ses- account manager Lynn Schwartz, “be- Rock Star fragrance bottle — but sion included panelists Kate Oldham, vice president cause the men’s market is emerging.” it’s not your typical corset, consider- and divisional merchandise manager of cosmetics and And, while 85 percent of glass manufac- ing it’s made of a resin called acry- fragrances at Saks Fifth Avenue; Art Spiro, president turer Heinz Glas’ business is generated by Dapy Paris made the corset lonitrile butadiene styrene. Texen of Liz Claiborne Cosmetics; Don Ziccardi, chairman of — you guessed it — glass, 15 percent of its on this Gaultier scent. showed off a plastic container it pro- advertising firm Agency 212, and Susan Wells, vice revenues come from plastics, which it duced for L’Oréal’s Volume Shocking president of sales and marketing at C Group, which spotlighted last week. The firm presented newly dual mascara, which the beauty giant markets in produces promotional sets. launched, teardrop-shaped plastic bottles, featuring a Europe. Rather than using the popular dual-ended Panelists explored ideas for entertaining the cus- three-color, beach-ball-like look achieved via a co-extru- cylinder design to deliver product, Texen’s dual mas- tomer at counter in order to ensure they’ll return. “The sion process. cara container employs a parallel design, whereby the customer expects to be entertained, delighted and ex- Heinz also displayed the Curious Britney Spears mascara handle is removed and the rods are with- cited at counter,” said Wells. “It’s about the ‘ooh’ factor bottle, a diamond-shaped piece of glass with an atomiz- drawn in opposite directions. as she walks by.” er that’s based on a Heinz design from the Thirties, the Additionally, Technicaps, which is working with de- The executives agreed that while national and local company said. Heinz supplies about half of the bottles signer Thierry Debashmakoff to develop a range of fragrance advertising is key, packaging is integral, be- to Elizabeth Arden, which markets the red-hot Spears compression-molded stock jars, displayed plastic clo- cause it continually advertises the product within. scent, while glass producer Pochet supplies the rest. sures that, thanks to a special printing process, resem- Said Rosen, “Advertainment is a combination of adver- Meanwhile, exemplifying the color and adornment ble leather, denim and textiles. What’s more, the print- tising and entertainment. Packaging is the silent sales- trends dominating the upscale bottle sector today, ing process boasts microencapsulated molecules, man of what’s within.” 18 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 16, 2005

Asst. Trim Buyer/Prod’n. EXECUTIVE REGISTRY, INC. Leading Ladies’ Wear Mfr. seeks highly • V.P. Retail Operations/ motivated, detail oriented team player to assist in the Production Dept. Must be merchandising skills. - $225K ambitious, able to multi-task, and have SUPPLEX*TASLAN • Director Merchandising, a good sense of trim market. Minimum Largest Supplier of IN-STOCK Woven 2-3 yrs. exp. Fax resume: 212-358-0031 Solid Fabrics. Available in all Finishes. RTW/Men’s - $150K Domestic/Export. [email protected] MACYS.COM • BUYER: Venture Worldwide Home - $110K BOOKKEEPER 1-800-4-SUPPLEX 212-768-3331 Part time position. Looking for full BUYER RTW - $110K charge bookkeeper through general Accessories - $100K ledger. All monthly reconciliations. Seeks experienced Buyer with exceptional taste level to achieve volume & Should have exp w/ factor statements. • Planning Director/Mgrs. - $150K Fax resume to Leah at 212-730-7872 profit objectives by planning, developing & selecting merchandise for • Planners / Wholesale / Retail - Internet business. Must have 3-5 yrs. buying experience, preferably in an $110K BUYERS Internet or catalog environment, excellent computer, analytical, communi- Call (201) 587-1010 EbLens Clothing and Footwear, a 25 cation, organizational & problem solving skills. Email: [email protected] store, CT based chain poised for major expansion, is looking for Juniors Dept. Buyers with a minimum 3 years expe- PLANNER rience. Opportunities exist for highly motivated, enthusiastic buyers in the The New York based planning team of macys.com is currently seeking a GREAT OPPORTUNITY! Juniors market who are eager to work in a dynamic environment with great Merchandise Planner to manage and execute the planning, placement, and JR. MODEL / DESIGN ASST. growth potential. fulfillment processes. This position will have responsibility for assortment Applicants may fax resumes to: Leading importer of knits & Don Riccio (860) 496-7446 or planning, inventory productivity, item availability, and receiving and fulfill- sweaters looking for Full Email: [email protected] ment. This position requires 2-3 years of prior retail planning experience, time Jr. Model/Design Asst. Check us out online: www.eblens.com proficiency in Excel, a Bachelor’s degree (or comparable work experience), •Bust 35" •Height 5’7" and strong business analytical skills to achieve sales and gross margin •Waist 27" • Bra Size 34B CONTROLLER Dynamic & growing $20M Apparel Co. goals. In addition, candidates must possess the ability and desire to learn •Low Hip 37" seeks a “hands-on” Controller. Duties various Federated Department Store systems and division - specific pro- Perfect fit for recent graduate. include cash flow management w/lender, Great salary & bnfts w/oppty’s for deal w/factor & creditors, analyze charge grams that support Internet operations. The ideal candidate will possess growth. Must be computer literate back/factor statements, budgeting, A/R, excellent communication, organizational and problem solving skills, and A/P, prep of G/L and F/S. Exp. in a textile/ Call Corina 212-500-4400 apparel firm. Excellent computer skills 37th St. 25 windows 7000 ft. $16.00 the aptitude to function within deadlines, while working both independently req’d. Excellent benefits package. Fax 5500 ft. Terrace- Views- $20.00 resume & salary req’s. to: 212-764-5535 Showrooms Bwy & 7th- sublet- move in and as part of a team. Prime Manhattan Re Jon 212-268-8043 To apply, log on to: macysJOBS.com/macysdirect COUTURE SEWERS Well est’d couture co. seeks hard or Fax: (212) 704-2975 200M+ Men’s Wear Co. has outstanding working experienced sewers & or tailors 85 Mercer Street - SOHO Macys.com is an equal opportunity employer. opportunities in several of its divisions. who have a strong background work in 1,200 sq. ft. w/high ceiling. Retail Space. We are seeking proven leaders who dem- custom evening wear. Fast paced onstrate a track record of measurable environment with hectic deadlines. Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 success. This is an excellent opportunity Opportunities for growth. www.dumann.com to join a rapidly growing company. Please call (212) 869-2296 •Technical Designer for our Men’s KLEINFELD BRIDAL Sportswear Division - Requires solid DESIGNER experience in evaluating fit & production Better dress company seeks experienced For Space in Garment Center IS COMING TO MANHATTAN samples, issuing spec sheets and fit designer to head new special occasions comments and developing tech packs. line. Great opportunity and resources! Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Web PDM skills a major plus. Candidate 212-880-0414 We are Growing And Want You To Join Us ! Minimum of 5 years experience. must be extremely detail oriented, Please fax resume to: (212) 217-6081 or communicate on a professional level and Email: [email protected] Exceptional Opportunities for Talented Individuals be a team player. Strengths should in- Showrooms & Lofts clude pants, tops and outerwear. Excel- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Sales Consultants lent opportunity for advancement Designer Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Fitters •Surf Wear Merchandiser - Requires Fast growing women’s wear company ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 direct experience in surf related fashion, seeks private label designer to develop Sewers Assistant/Technical exceptional taste, and thorough knowl- new dress line. Contemporary back- edge of surf/casual sportswear market. ground a big plus. Must have experience Customer Service Representatives Designer Complete understanding of "design thru working in sample room. Computer Cashiers •Junior Denim production" process, communication and Fax resume to Christine 212-302-3318 organizational skills, and ability to take Pressers •Young Mens Denim projects from concept to finished product. Stock Associates •Dynamic Merchandiser for our Pants Seeking 2 Assistant Designers with Division - Requires proven leader with Please submit a cover letter and resume to aminimum of 2-3 years experience significant experience in pants business, DESIGNER One in junior bottoms & the other exceptional taste, excellent communi- Growing baby wear co. seeks a talented [email protected] in young men’s bottoms. Must be cation and organizational skills, and designer with min. 5 years experience or ability to take projects from concept to in Newborn, Infant & Toddler design. highly organized, detail oriented, finished product. Thorough knowledge Exp. with licensed properties and Baby Fax Resume to 718-765-8687 and able to assist in phases of de- of dress & casual pants and complete industry a plus. Please send resume to: sign - creating initial tech packs, understanding of "design thru produc- E-mail: [email protected] or tion" process. Fax: (212) 967-8108, attn. Ralph Kassin specing, and grading. Proficiency •Sportswear Merchandiser -Requires PATTERN/SAMPLES in Mac based Excel & Illustrator talented designer in Men’s Outdoor DESIGNER are a must. Apparel. Must have 5 + years experience, Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast SENIOR DESIGNER skills in Adobe/Photoshop and Illustrator. Head Designer work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Strong understanding of all facets of out- Ocean County, NJ Uniform and Hospi- Leading West Coast Home Textile Company is hiring a Senior Children’s Wear door market and garment construction. tality Mfr looking for exp’d, forward Excellent opportunity to build a brand. thinking team player to manage Designer w/ broad based home or apparel design experience Technical Designer Design Dept. Art work through sample PATTERNS, SAMPLES, (7-15 yrs) to expand established brand lines and develop Compensation: Competitive Salary, making. Garment construction knowl- Seeking an organized Technical Health Benefits, 401(k) Plan. edge, Photoshop and/or Primavision, PRODUCTIONS new brand image. Experience with prints, yarn dyes and jac- Designer with a minimum of 3-4 All qualified applicants should send and 5 yrs min uniform exp essential. All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. years experience for girls, kids, & their resumes with salary history to: Fax resume to 732-901-7337 Call Sherry 212-719-0622. quards sourced offshore. Develop all concepts. Work with product development and CAD to ensure all prototypes meet toddlers. Must be knowledgeable in E-mail: [email protected] specs, garment construction, fit- Fax: (212) 564-3742 design and costing goals. International travel as required. Design / PATTERNS, SAMPLES, tings, graded specs, and detailed Merchandising Asst. E-mail resumes to: [email protected] corrections. Technical packages, Fast growing Handbag and Accessory PRODUCTIONS strong communication skills, and ADMINISTRATIVE company seeks Design/Merchandising Full servcie shop to the trade. proficiency in Mac based Excel & ASSISTANT Assistant. Candidate must have excellent Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Illustrator are a must. Rapidly growing & successful Women’s communication skills & be able to multi Wear Co. in NYC is looking for a bright, task. Knowledge in Illustrator & Photo DESIGNER Please Fax Resume to: well organized applicant with strong -shop a must. Great work environment! PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD communication skills. Prior bookeeping Please fax resume to: (212) 947-9683 or High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- 212-768-4615 experience a plus. Please fax resume to : E-mail: [email protected] sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 MERCHANDISER 212-674-0506 Leading women’s apparel co. is FASHION OPPORTUNITIES Graphic Designer seeking a dynamic designer with ADMIN SINCE 1967 Artists - Designers - Merchandisers - 5-10 yrs exp. to join our BOSTON W-I-N-S-T-O-N Production - Sales - Technical - Etc. Young Mens/Boys design staff. Designing for a Call Barbara Murphy (212) 643-8090 (agcy) Est’d Accessories/Bag Mfr. major public contemporary co. APPAREL STAFFING DESIGN * SALES * MERCH seeks highly creative individual Candidate must have a strong ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION GLOBAL SOURCING to design original ideas and background in updated knits and (212) 557-5000 F:(212) 986-8437 WOMEN’S RESORT WEAR BUSINESS & DESIGN artwork for Young Mens and wovens for pants, skirts and Liquidating All Inventory ASSISTANT NY based major apparel company Boys product line. Candidates jackets and strong knowledge of PRODUCTION MANAGER seeks 2 individuals: Appx. 90,000 Units • Firsts & Irregulars must be able to illustrate on prints and fabrics. Must be able Anna Sui Original Wholesale Value: $1,200,000 Macintosh, Adobe platforms. to shop stores for the newest Cut and sewn Knitwear TRIM BUYER PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT (45,000 Units Prepared for Dye) Large established company seeking 2-3 yrs exp. Proficient in Word, Excel, COORDINATOR: Customer Lists & Catalogs as Part of Strong communication skills, trends and have an understanding ADS, and able to cost new collections. Organized, detail-oriented person the Purchase of Inventory proficiency in Mac X OS, MS of development time lines. strong individual with experience in to handle development for design Contact Steve McMichael / Eunice King development and working with off- PRODUCTION ASSISTANT packages & to track all prod’n issues 336-349-8275 Ext. 214 Office, Illustrator/Photoshop, Excellent Salary and Benefits 2-3 yrs exp. as liaison between domestic from order to receipt to final shipment. and Filemaker Pro required. Fax Resume HR: shore vendors on C&S knit tops. and overseas offices. Proficient in Word, Min. 3 yrs. exp. in product development Must have a min. of 2 years 617-332-3260 Good technical knowledge required Excel, ADS. Detail oriented & organized. & prod’n. Cut & Sew knit exp. a plus. in fabrics, prints, appliques, other Fax resume & sal req’s to:212 768-2358 exp in Young Mens Apparel CONTEMPORARY WOMEN’S or Accessories. We offer a embellishment. Strong communi- DESIGNER: competitive salary, and full PRODUCTION MANAGER cation and follow up skills. Strong ASSOC DESIGNER/PRINT Ideal candidate must have 3-5 yrs. Sewing Operation. in Excel and able to disseminate Contemp design firm seeks creative, exp. designing in the Contemporary/ company benefits! To apply, team player to source & devel prints. Jr. market with import exp. Must please email your resume to: Bathing suit & exercise type. and organize large amount of infor- Min 2 yrs exp + strong sense of color be a highly creative, organized, Retail Opportunity [email protected] Exp’d Only! Knowledge of mation. Manage process from devel- &drawing skills, w/ illus & photoshop self starter who thrives in a fast 19 locations averaging 35,000 sq ft, stretch fabrics. Long Island opment to pricing to production. A+ Good organization & comm skills paced team environment. Must be selling hard & soft lines on consign- or fax: 212-695-7073 to handle deadlines. E-mail resumes comfortable with both knits & wovens. ment, needs additional product. Joint Subject line in email must resident only. Please fax Please Email resumes to: with sample of work to: venture or full ownership considered. read GRAPHIC DESIGNER resume to: (516) 579-0631 [email protected] [email protected] Please fax resume to: (212) 395-9001 Fax inquiry to (704) 694-2526 or fax: 212-302-3482 or Email: [email protected] WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 16, 2005 19

Graphic Designer QUALITY CONTROL Fast paced womens wear company SUPERVISOR seeks entry level assistant to develop Growing New Jersey domestic/import monthly line sheets and look books. manufacturer seeks individual to develop, No experience in fashion necessary implement and maintain systems to en- but must be proficient in Photoshop sure compliance with customer quality ROAD REPS and Illustrator. Experience in magazine standards & regulations. Will also inter- Leading bridal manufacturer seeks MIAMI publishing a big plus. face with other departments. Qualified experienced Road Salespeople to Fax resume to Christine 212-302-3318 PATTERNMAKER - Very Experienced candidates will be aggressive, have good represent line in the West & Southeast Seeking Position HIGH-END TREND RETAIL MANAGER communication & computer skills, have territories. Please fax resume to: Call Leon Guekjian @ 305-302-5134 Barcelino - San Francisco’s premier luxury at least 2-5 yrs exp. in a manufacturing (212) 967-1682 boutique seeks professional fashion environment. Bilingual Spanish a must. savvy Mgr. with 3-5 years exp. to lead Email resume and salary req’s. to: our growing business & participate in [email protected] buying. Great compensation package. We’ll pay moving expenses for our out of area candidates! E-mail: [email protected] RETAIL or Fax: (415) 927-1081 BUYER Junior and Plus retail chain of over 300 IMPORT MANAGER stores is looking for a Buyer with at Leading Women’s Moderate Apparel least 5 yrs. buying experience. Sweater firm seeks dynamic individual to lead and/or accessory knowledge a plus! an 80 million dollar in import business Please fax resume to: (215) 969-2830 Must be familiar with all phases of im- or Email: [email protected] port production and have an extensive knowledge of Asia. Excellent benefits! Fax resume to: (212) 764-5981 Retail Planner to $70K. Current strong exp. in RETAIL LINK to Walmart required. 500 mill. vol. Mdtn Co. Great Leading Watch Mfr. seeks Merchandis- Oppty. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY ers, Graphic & Jewelry Designers, and Admin. Assistants. Fast paced environ- ment. Must have keen eye for market trends and the ability to multi-task. Energetic and enthusiastic candidates Sales Assistant only. Email resume: [email protected] Leading Importer of Knits & Sweaters looking for individual with 2 years ex- LECTRA, a world leader of high tech perience. Will follow up with buyers, solutions and related services to the coordinate with Design, Production major industrial users of textiles, Dept. Must be computer literate leather and other soft materials, is Please fax resume to (201)854-1496 seeking candidates for the following sales positions: ACCOUNT DIRECTOR The Account Director will sell Lectra’s very broad products and related services portfolio to large/strategic accounts w/in apparel, retail and technical textile arena. Will be respon- sible for increasing market share and existing client base. 5 - 7 yrs business Sales development exp, strong presentations Soundgirl, an exciting and innovative skills, ability to close large deals and a new Better Junior / Young Contempo- 4-yr degree req. 50% travel. These rary Sportswear and Denim collection is positions are available in New York seeking account executives with a min Apparel Trim Mfr. and Los Angeles offices. of 5 yrs exp. Established relationships Email: [email protected] with better dept and specialty chains a Seeking a Sales Rep in the New York Ref. job ADNY 605 in subject line. must. This is an excellent opportunity City and surrounding area. Experience to work with an industry leader on a selling hang tags, woven labels, bar-code SOLUTION rapidly growing brand. Excellent tickets, stickers, and printed labels is a salary, benefits & work environment! Kecci® must. Offering guaranteed draw against CONSULTANT Fax: 212 730 1128 [email protected] commission plus expense. Please Fax The Solution Consultant will provide www.soundgirl.com or E-mail resumes to: 323-838-8313 support to the sales team with customer Fast growing global Infant Care [email protected] qualification, preliminary project prep- Bag Co. seeks New York based aration and presentation, implementa- top Sales Reps & National tion plan scoping and quantification. Senior Account Executive You must have 5 yrs relevant exp in Sales Manger with solid proven ENTRY LEVEL SALES Karen Neuburger sleepwear seeks former INFANT ACCESSORIES COMPANY sales, pre-sales or consulting and a 4- retail dept. store buyer (wholesale exp. infant bag sales background. yr degree. 50% Travel. This position Established Baby Products Importer is aplus).Est’d CA apparel mfr. co. with Close rapport with upper store seeking an energetic, highly motivated is available in our New York office. Manhattan showroom / sales office. Pol- Email resumes to: management. Contacts with Sears, self starter with strong communication/ ished communicator w/ strong analytical organizational skills to work with sales [email protected] &retail math skills to manage top dept. Ref. job SCNY 605 in subject line. Kohl’s, Penneys, Federated, etc. management to develop new accounts store accounts. Reports to Sr. VP Sales. Exp’d in mass & mid-tier markets a and new markets. Must be experienced Patternmaker Pls. send cover letter and resume to: in sales/administration and Word/Excel [email protected] must. Strong Department Store proficient. Bilingual Spanish a plus. An ASSISTANT following from A to Z. exciting opportunity to build a career PATTERN-MAKER with a dynamic, fast growing Company! Sportswear Manufacturer seeks well- Must be able to communicate To apply, please fax or email resume to: organized assistant patternmaker. Spec. Technician constantly by E-mail. Strong 212-695-9624 / [email protected] Fax resume to: 212-944-0156 $40-48,000 This very successful company which computer skills are required. manufactures team apparel is looking E-mail attention, Personnel at: PDS PAT MAKER for a spec tech with 3-5+ yrs experi- GERBER $70-$85K ence, knowledge of knits and wovens, [email protected] [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 childrenswear background preferred, Great Co. seeks Great Sales Personality! outerwear background is very helpful Part-Time Hours; Full-Time Salary! as well. Walmart and Target exp Tel: 516-997-8633 / Fax: 516-997-8650 would be preferred. Sizes 0-Mens. Accessory Sales Rep Great company to work for with out- Fast growing Handbag & Accessory co. standing benefits. Call Ms. Bend at seeks exp’d salesperson in the mass & Product Development & 212-878-2000, fax to 212-949-3928 or SALES EXECUTIVE mid-tier markets. Must have accessory Better Junior Jeans Company seeks an Sourcing Coordinator send to [email protected] sales experience with handbags, cold For Boulder, CO area Knitwear Co. Must aggressive, highly motivated Sales Pro weather goods, etc., be self-motivated, with major dept./chain store following. have excellent knowledge of knit/woven aggressive & outgoing with strong selling construction and overseas sourcing. abilities. Great rewards to those with exp. Email: [email protected] Act as liaison between Design/Production. including a competitive compensation or Fax: (323) 581-1191 Excellent Computer skills. E-mail to: package. Fax resume to: (212) 947-9683 [email protected] Sr. Merchandiser/ or E-mail: [email protected] Designer-Belts Production Assistant Perry Ellis International seeks an indi- Sales Executive For color submittals. Well established vidual w/ 3-5 yrs small leather goods apparel mfr & importer seeks an Champion Plus seeks aggressive, exp. to design & merchandise belts/ experienced sales executive for N.Y. experienced individual to do color accessory product lines from concept ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE approvals on woven and knits using Catherine Malandrino,afast-growing, showroom. Please fax or email resume to: to final samples. College degree required. F: 714-890-3126 Email: [email protected] the Data Color spectrometer. Lab dips Please email [email protected] luxury women’s brand, seeks a highly and shade bands to be submitted to EOE/DFWP motivated & energetic, professional to Wal-Mart electronically. Must be contribute to the growth and expansion organized and prepared to work in this of the Catherine Malandrino brand. We fast paced environment. Computer are looking for a "go-getter" with expe- experience and knowledge of the data TECHNICAL DESIGNER rience at the major department store SALESPERSON color equipment is helpful. Good start- level. Candidates must have excellent ing salary and benefits. Fax resume to: Well Est’d NY Based Denim Company CHARLOTTE TARANTOLA looking for a technical designer w/ 3-5 communication & follow-up skills plus Mark Rubin at 212-444-6019 a minimum 2 years selling experience. Contemporary showroom seeks years experience. Must be knowledgeable salesperson for NE territory. in drawing flat sketches in Adobe Catherine Malandrino offers a dynamic working environment and competitive Travel and sales experience required. PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Illustrator, garment construction, Fax resume to 212-382-0681 Ladies suit MFR needs organized person grading, and fit approval process. Will salaries. Please email your resumes to: to order trim follow up w/ contractors, work w/ sending construction & sewing [email protected] domestic & China. Knowl. of excel & comments to domestic factories and word a must. Email or fax resume. laundries. We offer a great work SALES PRO WANTED F: 212-869-5393 E: [email protected] environment with opportunities for Need a change? Multi-million $ L.I. based growth plus excellent salary & benifts. Promotional Products distributor seeks Production Coordinator Fax Resume to: 212- 675- 4308 Salespeople. Garment center exp. a pro- Leading Importer of Knits & Sweaters ven +. Draw/Commission. Fax/E-mail: looking for individual with 3 to 5 years 631-824-9136 / [email protected] experience in Wovens, Knits and Anna Maier - Ulla-Maija Couture, Sweaters. Should have Common Agent TECHNICAL the couture bridal and eveningwear Experience. company, seeks a qualified individual Please fax resume to (201)854-1496 PRODUCTION to assume the role of SHOWROOM SALES Leading Ladies Dress and Related National Sales Representative. Showroom Seven, a leading multi-brand Separates Company seeking qualified Please fax resume to 212.768.4609 luxury designer fashion showroom seeks Production/QC Manager person to live in Asia to manage existing or e-mail to [email protected] experienced Sales People for full time Leading apparel company seeks individ- patternmakers/sample room. Must be positions. Must have designer level expe- ual with experience in QC and production strong in management, patternmaking, Couture Evening Wear rience and buyer contacts with Dept. & status as well as monitoring overseas fit, quality control & computer pattern- Specialty Stores. Seasonal European staff. Extensive overseas travel essential. Mfr. seeks exp’d. Salesperson. Must travel req’d. Knowledge of French a +. Excellent salary and benefits. making. Competitive salary. Reply to: have high-end Specialty Store relations. E-mail resume & salary requirements to: Please fax resume to: (212)239-2766 [email protected] Fax resume & salary to: 305-826-6028 [email protected] AMERICA’S COTTON PR ODUCERS AND IMPOR TERS. ® Registered Service Mar Registered Service ® TERS.

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