LI & FUNG BUYING HILFIGER SOURCING/2 BUYERS LAUD N.Y./13 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • February 12, 2007 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Bringing Sexy Back NEW YORK — At last! As week came to a close, delivered some much- needed seduction with a collection that was serene and, most of all, alluring. Here, her curvy bustier dress. For more, see pages 6 to 13.

The Penney’s Program: Ullman Sees Service, Exclusives as Drivers By Sharon Edelson NEW YORK — Watch out Macy’s, J.C. Penney is breathing down your neck. Myron E. Ullman 3rd, Penney’s chairman and chief executive officer, said there is ample opportunity for the department store chain to capture market share from Macy’s, which is owned by Federated Department Stores. Macy’s has an average unit retail sale of $28, whereas Penney’s is $16. But Ullman believes that by emphasizing service and introducing more aspirational brands, Penney’s can attract a higher-spending customer. Part of the service emphasis will be See Penney’s, Page 27 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007 WWD.COM Li & Fung to Buy Tommy Hilfi ger Sourcing

NEW YORK — Hong Kong-based “Li & Fung has been on the tributable to the Hilfi ger sourc- Li & Fung Ltd. and Tommy lookout for acquisition oppor- ing operations was $31 million, WWDMONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Hilfiger said Sunday that a tunities that would further en- according to the release. wholly owned subsidiary of Li hance its global diversifi cation Fred Gehring, chief execu- & Fung will acquire Tommy and maintain a much more bal- tive offi cer of Tommy Hilfi ger GENERAL Hilfiger’s global sourcing op- anced geographical mix of busi- Group, said, “We believe that Myron E. Ullman 3rd, J.C. Penney’s chief, said there is ample opportunity erations, headquartered in ness. Our share placement ex- to take things forward, we can 1 for the department store chain to capture market share from Macy’s. Hong Kong, for $247.8 million ecuted last year has augmented benefi t tremendously from the EYE: As usual, Thursday night of fashion week always features the one- in cash. our capacity for acquisitions integration of these offices two punch of the and after parties. Expected to close by March and positioned us well to cap- within the greater network of 4 28, the transaction will pro- ture this opportunity,” said Li & Fung, with over 70 offi ces Donna Karan sent out a serene yet seductive collection, while Ralph vide Li & Fung with enhanced William Fung, group managing in over 40 countries and ter- 6 Lauren delivered easy elegance as the shows wound down. global diversifi cation and en- director of Li & Fung, in the ritories, including as many as Many houses turned to sharply tailored suits, pencil shirts and glamor- able Tommy Hilfi ger to access a statement. 19 offi ces in China alone. The ous, body-clinging dresses, pleasing buyers. broader buying offi ce network, Hilfiger’s existing buying continued dedication of our 13 the companies said in a joint offi ces in Hong Kong, Taiwan, respective sourcing teams in statement. India, Bangladesh and Sri combination with Li & Fung’s Obituary...... 28 Monetary fi gures have been Lanka will be integrated into tremendous strength in prod- Classifi ed Advertisements...... 29-31 converted to U.S. dollars. the Li & Fung organization. uct development and overall Li & Fung said the purchase For the year ended March buying power will be an impor- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. will be fi nanced by its internal 31, 2006, sourcing volume was tant asset while we continue to [email protected], using the individual’s name. cash reserves and is payable on $703 million and the unaudited develop our brand.” WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT completion of the acquisition. adjusted earnings after tax at- — Vicki M. Young ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 193, NO. 33. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. 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If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615- $19.13 billion at average exchange rates, in 2006 in 2006, according to the Federation. 5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, versus 2005. Looking ahead, Grangé Cabane said the OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED In France, pretax sales grew 3.5 percent, to 6.54 Federation, which represents 250 French cosmet- MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR billion euros, or $8.22 billion. ics companies, would support CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY Sales made through selec- the implementation of the new A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. tive distribution — namely, European chemical legisla- Marionnaud Parfumeries, BEAUTY BEAT tion REACH, which stands for Sephora and Nocibe perfum- the Registration, Evaluation MONDAY: London Fashion Week (through Friday). eries, plus department stores — led growth, which and Authorization of Chemicals law. As reported, it Women’s Wear in Nevada, Las Vegas (through came in at 6.5 percent. Revenues from the mass was passed in December 2006 to regulate the use of Thursday). market bounced back, increasing 3.4 percent after chemicals in consumer products, including cosmet- Designers & Agents, London (through Thursday). two years of decline. The pharmacy channel’s ics and fragrances, across the European Union. Ready to Show and Intertex, Milan (through beauty business in France grew 1 percent in 2006, Grangé Cabane said challenges facing the in- Wednesday). following 10 years of 6.1 percent average growth dustry included continuing to protect the image per year. The country’s direct beauty sales shrunk of cosmetics products, since French consumer TUESDAY: Pool Tradeshow, CurveNV and slightly, by 1.5 percent, for the second year run- concerns about ingredients began two years ago, AccessoriestheShow, Las Vegas (through Thursday). ning. French beauty exports to 202 countries grew when parabens were said to be potentially harm- MAGIC Marketplace, Las Vegas (through Friday). 7.4 percent, to 8.69 billion euros, or $10.91 billion. ful to human health. Milano Unica, Milan (through Friday). This represented 57 percent of France’s total The Federation will launch a big-budget advertis- The U.S. Commerce Department releases the beauty sales, against 55 percent in the prior year. ing campaign later this year that is intended to high- December foreign trade report. “Sales exploded in emerging markets,” said light the benefi ts and values of beauty products. Alain Grangé Cabane, the Federation’s president. — Ellen Groves WEDNESDAY: The Commerce Department releases the January retail sales report. Guess Inc. and Jones Apparel Group report fourth- It quarter and year-end sales and earnings. Polo Names FRIDAY: Madrid Fashion Week (through Sunday). STRETCHES The U.S. Labor Department releases the Producer Asia-Pacifi c Price Index for January. SATURDAY: Atelier Designers and Pacifi c Designer Collection, New York (through Feb. 19). President Milan Fashion Week (through Feb. 24).

POLO CORP. COMING THIS WEEK SUNDAY: Moda Manhattan, Designers at the Essex is expected to announce House, Designers & Agents, Platform 2 and The today that François Delage Train, New York (through Feb. 20). will join the company Sept. Nouveau Collective, New York (through Feb. 21). 1 as president of the Asia- Pacific region. Most recently, Delage was president of the Asia-Pacifi c area for and was based in Hong Kong. For In Brief six years, he lead the brand’s efforts across 14 markets. ● BAUER CHIEF OUT: Eddie Bauer Holdings Inc. president and Delage had a 16-year career chief executive officer Fabian Mansson resigned Friday, a day after with LVMH Moët Hennessy company shareholders rejected a $286 million buyout offer from LA LAME, Leading Manufacturers of Stretch Fabrics Louis Vuitton, including serv- two private equity firms, namely affiliates of Sun Capital Partners presents ing as general manager in Inc. and Golden Gate Capital. Howard Gross, Eddie Bauer board An Innovative New Collection of Knitted and Woven Fabrics charge of the company’s fash- member and former president and ceo of Limited Stores and and Trims Made in Europe, USA and Asia ion brands in Micronesia. Victoria’s Secret Stores, will serve as interim ceo while the board Moldable Spacers • Microfibers • Textures • Metallics • Laces In Allovers and Galoons In addition, Delage has searches for a permanent replacement. Deluster, Foil, Glitter, Flock, Embossed and Puff Prints on: held various key fi nance po- Tricots,Tulles, Chiffons, ,Twills and Sateens sitions in France at Vuitton, Novelty Elastic Trims: Metallics, Reflective, Ruffles, Crochets and Rhinestones DaiNippon Ink and Chemicals For reviews, Fashion Scoops and Please Contact Glen Schneer,Vice President Inc. and Walt Disney. [email protected] • www.lalame.com At Polo, Delage will re- news throughout the day, visit port to Scott Bowman, presi- LALAME, Inc. 132 W.36th St., 11th Fl. New York, NY 10018 • Tel: 212.921.9770 • Fax: 212.302.4359 dent of international busi- ness development. fashiononsite.wwd.com ENK-CoterieAd_2-12-07FINAL.ai 2/9/07 3:47:44 PM

February 20, 21, 22, 2007 Coterie . Mezzanine . Clear . Sole Commerce . Fresh Coterie Tuesday & Wednesday: 9am-7pm . Thursday: 9am-4pm . Photo & Business ID for Admission The Javits Center, NYC Contemporary Collections, The Mezzanine, Clear, Fresh Coterie, Sole Commerce Piers 90 + 92, NYC Modern Collections, Bridge Collections, Universal Collections, European Collections, Ente Moda Italia - Made In Collections, Evening & Dress Collections

www.enkshows.com/coterie 4 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007 WWD.COM

Francisco Costa with Christina in Ricci in Calvin Klein Collection. Versace.

Juliette Lewis and Penélope Cruz, both in Versace. Coast to Coast For bon vivants, Thursday night of fashion week always Jennifer Lopez and Drew features the one-two punch of the Calvin Klein and Barrymore, both in Versace. Zac Posen after parties. Francisco Costa took over the Waverly Inn for a postshow dinner that drew the likes of Natalia Vodianova, Michael Stipe, Helena Christensen, Anouck Lepère, Camilla Al Fayed, Rachel Zoe, Astrid Muñoz, Craig McDean, Barry Schwartz and a cabal of editors. Costa was still on a high from his back-to-back shows that afternoon, even though the fi rst one had a small hiccup when a lost her shoe. “The second one was much better,” he laughed. “Things went much smoother and were much less manic. Next time, I’ll have the editors come to the later one.” Schwartz, who’d made his fi rst appearance at a Calvin Klein show since he and Klein sold the company, was looking to milk the day for all it was worth. “I fi gured I may as well get a meal out of it, too,” he joked. After the hundred or so dinner guests supped on the restaurant’s already-signature rocket salad and hearty steaks or salty salmon, the American set left in typical New York fashion — 10 minutes after the desserts were served. The klatch of European journos, seated in “Siberia,” the back garden room, lingered on, Astrid however. Costa, along with Vodianova and Elizabeth Saltzman Walker Muñoz in and IMG honcho Chuck Bennett, repaired to the Rose Bar at the Cassie Calvin Klein Gramercy Park Hotel, where Justin Portman, like any good monied in Zac Collection Euro, was found swilling Stolichnaya straight from the bottle. Posen. with Camilla Uptown, Zac Posen’s after party was held in a cavernous Al Fayed. space on the ground fl oor and lower level of the Dream Hotel, where the designer was surrounded by Rachel Bilson, Alexandra Richards, Annabel Dexter-Jones, Mirabelle Marden and Melissa Bent. Cassie, the R&B crooner, made a quick pit stop before heading off to perform a late-night gig. “The last time I went to fashion week, I was 15 and I was walking in shows,” she said. But she doesn’t exactly miss it: “I love being a singer.” Posen seemed relieved to get a chance to unwind — even if he was exhausted. “I think I slept an hour and a half last night,” he said, with a little roll of the eyes. Fashion week fetes aside, it was in Los Angeles for Donatella Versace that the real elite came Donatella out. Of course, it wouldn’t be a Versace event without an army of Versace in tanned Adonis attendants, cocktails and sexy dresses slit to there, Versace. and Thursday night’s Walk of Style party boasted an embarrassment of riches. The fashion house is all about glamazons, and the cordoned-off VIP area in the enormous clear tent was Tabitha a Gianni-era fl ashback at its best: , Cindy Simmons Crawford, Elton John, Jennifer Lopez, Demi Moore and Prince and Craig showered Donatella with hugs and kisses. “Bella!” gushed McDean Lopez as she threw her arms up to embrace the designer. “I am so happy, so happy,” she murmured in reply. Though Tatiana Patitz and Amber Valletta upped the model quotient, there were some younger starlets in the crowd: Drew Barrymore, Christina Ricci and Mischa Barton all came out to lend their support. “Oh, my God, I’m having, like, an Eighties moment!” gasped an awestruck Barton. The crowd seemed content to sip Oronoco V cocktails and gawk at the spectacle. “It’s like watching animals in a cage,” said one guest. At least they were well-dressed wild things, prowling to a great soundtrack (courtesy of Samantha Ronson): from Penélope Cruz’s chiffon train (“Excuse me, the dress,” she pleaded to those who Rachel continually trod over it) to Prince and Kanye West’s bling- Bilson covered ears to fl ashes of well-toned gams at every turn. Things in Zac made a turn for the dramatic when Sharon Stone took the stage Posen. to auction off a Lamborghini to benefi t the Elton John AIDS Anouck Foundation, giving the lucky bloke who won it for half a million Lepère in dollars a kiss on the cheek. But money can’t buy everything: Calvin Klein Paris Hilton and Brandon Davis weren’t permitted past the Collection. velvet ropes; they gazed longingly at the white hot epicenter

from raised banquettes on the side. STEVE EICHNER ALEX BERLINER/BEIMAGES; ZAC POSEN BY VERSACE BY FARRELL/PMC; BILLY KLEIN PHOTOS BY CALVIN

6 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007 City Chic And Easy Elegance Just in the nick of time, Donna Karan brought a little seduction to the season, while Ralph Lauren’s beautiful clothes oozed luxury and refi nement.

Donna Karan: These clothes, Donna Karan wrote in her program notes, “speak to a woman’s greatest asset — her ability to seduce with power and light.” She was on to something all too rare this week, because until Karan’s models took to the runway on Friday afternoon, the seduction factor had been in scant supply. Karan infused this most low-key of seasons with two welcome elements: fi rst, an intriguing sensuality, and second, a little dose of decoration in a beautifully rendered collection that was urbane and just artsy enough. Along the way, Karan reminded us of a key tenet of her design philosophy: a good bodysuit goes a long way. Her beloved stretchie provided the collection’s cornerstone, here worked with a subtlety that allowed strength and romance to coexist. She used it as the attached underpinning to curvy bustier dresses that came in wool double knit, as well as in intricately worked origami-inspired satins, some fl ashing bits of vibrant color — violet, aqua, yellow. Throughout, Karan featured another house standard, contrast, inviting textural plays — a shiny black-on-black band cinching a jersey dress; those rich-toned satin bustiers appliquéd onto the basic jersey foundation; a bolt of bright paillettes dazzling against a tight black skirt. It all made for serenity of an interesting sort. And if some excessively NEW labored draping made for a few awkward evening looks, these were rare. More often, Karan hit a near-perfect pitch. That is unless you count the fi nal musing on her YORK program. She fi nished the thought above with a reference to a woman’s ability to “truly fall make a difference in the world.” Would that a ’07 Donna divine bustier could accomplish that. Karan Ralph Lauren: Pretty? Check. Refi ned? Check. Luxurious? Check. In this oh-so-ladylike season, those elements might have added up to a blockbuster, especially from Ralph Lauren, for whom good taste is a core belief rather than a seasonal amusement. Yet in the collection he showed Friday morning, Lauren let the obvious opportunity slip away. A master at delivering easy elegance, the designer sent out a lineup of beautiful clothes. What woman doesn’t love a classic, cozy tweed, only upgraded to gorgeous cashmere? The fabric made for a major theme, shown in everything from coats to suits to slipdresses worn in girlish mien over lean sweaters. It worked best in its sleekest variations, such as a slim brown checked skirt paired with a ribbed peplum cardigan. For some reason, however, Lauren more often went for a looser line — read: dirndls and princess coats — putting volume where most women don’t want or need it, at the hips. Either way, as attractive as many looks were, the overall effect was too quiet to captivate from the runway. A racier attitude provided the show’s other key motif. Here, some all- black layerings, such as a hand-knit bolero over a turtleneck and pants, were smashing. But the introduction of gold leather pieces into the mix — a puffy ski vest over black turtleneck and skirt — suggested a too- obvious quest for cool. For evening, the same characteristic that tempered the daywear had Donna Karan a different effect. Then, the utter simplicity of a black silk velvet gown adorned with only diamond-stud earrings read not as too quiet but as the epitome of polished drama. Ralph Lauren Donna Karan Ralph Lauren Ralph Lauren Ralph Lauren WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12,2007 WWD.COM 7

PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE AND GIOVANNI GIANNONI 8 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007 Return Engagements The notion of real clothes for real women has a perennial appeal, and a number of designers, including two that are making comebacks, explored it this season.

Anne Klein: Everyone loves a comeback, and everyone loves and respects Isabel Toledo as a distinctive talent. So it might have seemed that the script for her debut at would NEW call for a smash. In fact, however, both designer and company have numerous hurdles to overcome if their relationship is to fl ourish into a viable designer-level success. Toledo’s presentation itself belied her near-decade-long YORK absence from the runway, harkening to a time of greater in- fall nocence when a fashion show was all about a designer ad- dressing his or her clients’ various wardrobe needs. In today’s ’07 superslick, hyper-focused, media-targeted events, clarity is as likely to come via a stylist’s hand as that of the designer’s. However trumped up or falsifi ed the real message, this is the au courant standard against which Toledo’s more guileless ap- proach seemed a bit quaint. Toledo’s greater challenge is one shared with the company brass. Over the years, the house has failed miserably at main- taining and modernizing the legacy of its founder, a decline that started the moment Tomio Taki and Frank Mori signed off on the creation of the Donna Karan label. Does the Anne Klein legacy resonate at all anymore beyond the generic pio- neer-of-American- motif? At the risk of sacrilege, probably not. Which begs another question: Is there a reason for an Anne Klein collection to exist at this high-end level? Answer: Maybe. Though the designer landscape is a severely oversaturated fi eld of merch, even the soggiest of bogs can sprout glorious new blossoms which women will rush to pick if the look excites them. First, though, Toledo must create that excitement, and even pretending to comb the archives may not be the best route to that end. For fall, she favored “couture-haberdashery,” infus- ing men’s wear looks with tony details, often to fi ne effect. She exaggerated bold plaids with appealing quirkiness and spiffed up such venerable standards as the twinset, shirtdress and sailor pants. “I am Anne Klein today,” Toledo said of her target constituency. “It’s every woman who has to feel comfort- able and not have to think a lot about the clothes and still feel empowered that she looks sharp.” But that Everywoman empowerment card is challenging at current sky-high designer prices where label whoredom fl our- ishes and, for those bombarded by the best Europe has to offer, classic American sportswear needs something beyond the pro- verbial twist to remain covetable. Every designer needs and deserves more than a season to perfect a look, and it would have been nearly impossible for Toledo to stand up to her pre- show hype. But Anne Klein has been off the radar for a long time, and it’s going to take a razor-sharp viewpoint — with a considerably juiced-up fashion quotient — to get it back on.

Zac Posen: The group of subdued black wool looks that opened Zac Posen’s show indicated that, after last season’s wayward collection, he was demonstrating some much- desired restraint. And deliver he did, with precise pencil skirts, body-skimming sheaths and impressive beaded separates. Primly tailored jackets and skirts were amply accented with ruffles without being overwrought. Yet for all this newfound polish, at times Posen let his exuberant quest to innovate clutter his designs, as in a coat that was a mishmash of burgundy mink, swakara and chinchilla — further complicated by ruffles. Nevertheless, Posen has made considerable strides and nowhere was his talent more evident than in his eveningwear. His series of Forties- inspired gowns and flouncy, flirty baby-dolls were delightful. And if the butterfly wings sprouting from a stiff, black mermaid dress were a misstep, no matter. Judging from their standing ovation at show’s end, Posen’s skinny starlets are ready, waiting and eager.

Chado Ralph Rucci: For 25 years, Ralph Rucci has specialized in ultraluxurious clothes spun with artsy and Asian motifs, and, once again, he stayed true to form. Much to the delight of his loyal society women who giddily lined the runway, his signatures — Mandarin collars, swirling seam details, double-face cashmere, alligator and chinchilla — were all there. Aside from the strange, Saran Wrap headpieces, Rucci approached both his fall ready-to-wear and spring couture collections with a lighter hand, and the effect was quite refreshing. A Louise Nevelson-inspired couture pattern was pared-down and chic on A-line dresses, while a sable- trimmed, satin parka, from rtw, was a real sporty showpiece. For evening — where Rucci always fl exes his most eccentric muscle — there was drama aplenty via feather accents and grand stoles. And when he went more youthful, as in a simple black velvet cocktail dress embellished with just a twinkling panel of paillettes and a fl oor-length, gray couture number Anne Klein Zac Posen with tumbling tiers of organza, the light really shone. WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007 9 WWD.COM

Tommy Hilfi ger

Tory Burch

L’Wren Scott

Chado Ralph Rucci

Chado Ralph Rucci PHOTOS BY PASHA ANTONOV, JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND THOMAS IANNACCONE GIOVANNI GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, JOHN AQUINO, ANTONOV, PASHA PHOTOS BY

Tommy Hilfi ger: Welcome to the new Tommy Hilfi ger? After type — her collections continue to hit the right chic marks while a two-season hiatus from the runway during which private being accessible and interesting to those who don’t necessarily equity fi rm Apax Partners bought his company and relocated its run in her circle. Burch understands that sometimes all that’s corporate headquarters to Amsterdam, Tommy Hilfi ger returned needed to jazz up a day dress for a quick après-work drink to New York’s Hammerstein Ballroom with his fall collection. is a sequined cardigan. She also realizes one can never have In his quest to elevate the brand’s image in the U.S., he made a enough pretty printed frocks, done “Belle de Jour”-style after determined move toward discretion. It started with his front row, her fall muse, Catherine Deneuve. But Burch is also taking baby where the star wattage was considerably lower than in the past steps into more fashion-y territory, as seen in a white oversized (Destiny’s Child’s Michelle Williams instead of Beyoncé), and sweater with black patent closures, a fabulous gray mink coat his stage set, designed to look like a moody enchanted forest, a with brown-and-cream stripes and a killer pair of fl at croc boots. bit of a downer with no clear connection to the clothes. But such matters are the transitory stuff of showmanship. L’Wren Scott: Remember when fashion shows were exclusive, Hilfi ger’s real challenge is to reinvigorate a high-profi le insider affairs? L’Wren Scott is orchestrating her ascent as a brand that has seen its share of ups and downs. His approach designer in part by playing to our longing for the old days, when was to play up the more refi ned side with which he has fl irted you didn’t have to risk being trampled by a mob to get to your seat. over the years. And what better way to achieve an upper-crust Imagine how lovely — and fl attering — it was, at the end of a packed sensibility than with a collection based on classic English week, for her handful of guests to walk into the zen-like serenity fabrics? Tweeds, herringbones, tartans, Prince of Wales and gray of the Marianne Boesky Gallery, where they found a long white fl annels made up the proper, girlish attire: jumpers, peacoats table set with deep-red roses, a lunch prepared by Olivier Cheng and bib dresses worn with gray tights and oxford lace-ups or — and a timely start. Clever, without doubt. But Scott’s approach is splashy colored pumps. Much of it was good-looking and even more than canny calculation: It suits well a small, young enterprise charming: a brown tweed toggle coat over a navy silk skirt; for targeting a rarefi ed customer. (All you upstart designers out there, evening, a polite pearl-studded navy cocktail dress. take note: There are alternative ways to show.) Scott designs with But even the best of the lot highlighted two issues: The fi rst her glamorous celebrity clients in mind and, by extension, for is something Hilfi ger has grappled with his entire career — the savvy-chic women who are far less interested in trend mongering Anglophile, pulled-together prepster belongs to somebody else. than working their assets to steamy effect. Thus, she kept to the Try though he has, Hilfi ger has never been able to transcend same siren-worthy silhouette of her two previous outings, featuring that girl’s Ralph Lauren roots to make her completely his perfect hourglass cuts, while emphasizing custom details such as own. Second, the cute propriety Hilfi ger touted was neither a minuscule fl eur-de-lis jacquard, intricately wrought buttons and distinctive nor new enough to take full command of the runway. little chiffon kickpleats that facilitate a sexy strut. Scott amped up her attention to tailoring in demonstrative tailcoats infused with Chado Ralph Tory Burch: Tory Burch sticks to a very distinct m.o.: She designs a waft of rock ’n’ roll. And she limited her palette to two colors, Rucci Couture what she would wear herself. And since she has an impeccable black and a shade of red matched perfectly to those roses. “The inner barometer of style — equal parts jet-setter and traditional collection,” she deadpanned, “is called ‘Too Much Blood.’ ” 10 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007

Designers are placing major emphasis on the silhouette, whether cinched or relaxed, sweeping or Taking Shape short, whittled or wide.

Dennis Basso Daryl K

NEW YORK fall’07 Dennis Basso Daryl K

Dennis Basso: Dennis Basso had big plans this season to leap beyond furs for deliver a cohesive collection while offering his ladies plenty of that good old his fi rst foray into the tents. But the transition from beloved furrier-to-the-tony- Basso panache. set to full-fl edged ready-to-wear designer is neither automatic nor easy, and the inherent diffi culties were evident in his show on Friday. Problem number one: Daryl K: True to form, Daryl Kerrigan sent out a collection celebrating a Beyond his penchant for bursting into tiers on dresses, tops and skirts, Basso’s louche downtown aesthetic that was both expected and welcome. It was as if point of view was a little vague. Yet in his attempt to highlight the clothes, he the message of her runway was, “Take that, all you uptowners with your pretty gave short shrift to his furs. Some of those were great — appliqued broadtail dresses and polished gloss.” Indeed, the dark layers, short tunics and low-slung jackets; a cream sheared mink coat — while others were burdened with exces- belted sack dresses looked fresh, tough and unmistakably Daryl K. Even a great sive fl ourishes. Let’s hope that next season Basso can sharpen his vision and trench, done in cream, had a cool, swingy feel to it. Mastroianni Carmen MarcValvo Joanna Joanna Mastroianni Joanna Rebecca Taylor the season’s subtlety. simple dressesincognac orwineiridescentsilkwereperfectly intunewith blocks, mixingcopper withblackonajerseyhaltergown, whilehershort, beadedvestsorillusionnecklines. Mastroiannialsooptedforstrongcolor airy mantic andslenderblackjerseydresses with beautifullydetailedlacesleeves, metallic shieldsandscapulars.Butthere wasplentyofunfetteredfare:ro- Mastroianni’s religiousandByzantineovertones: hugeembroideredcrosses, Palm Beachladieslove.Whattheymayhavetroubleembracing, though,is of youthfulness.Still,shelostnone her coresophistication,whichthose she diditwithasurprisingamountof restraint andevenarefreshingdose Joanna Mastroianni: they couldbuythem. multicolored iridescentsparkles,whichhadeditorsbuzzingaboutwhere goingupinsmoke.Oneexception:for everything theblacktightswith with arainbowfl suggested aHalloweenpartytrick,whiletheclosinglook—silverdress veered offcourse.Adressinazanysilver-and-purple, optical-illusionfabric Rowley introducedcolorand fussydetailslikeshoulderruffl in texturedfabrics,oranochresilktoppairedwithskinnypants.When stuck toamonochromaticpalette,asinthesleevelessgoldorsilvershifts the discoera.Attimes,though,shewassuccessful—especiallywhen and jacketswithshoulderpadsseemedfi her fl Cynthia Rowley: sweetly refinedtouch. trimming andnailheadembellishments—itwasallexecuted withTaylor’s And whilesomelooksindulgedinslightlyedgydetailing—chain-link textured woolsweaterdresswithprettilypleatedpetalsgracingitsneckline. feminine sensibility, meanwhile,showedacoolrestraint,asseeninthegray cocoon shapeswornoverskinnypantsorribbedleggings.Hersignature Friday. Thisseason,shepreferredtop-heavysilhouettes,suchasvoluminous two events,Taylor createdanutterlycharmingcollection,whichwasshown rest, andjustaweekago,shegavebirthtotwinsZoeIsabel.Betweenthe Rebecca Taylor: keep Valvo’s gala-goinggoddesseshappy. of cocktailandfloor-length dresses,providingasubtleGrecianmoodsureto rendered inlacqueredchiffonorcutonthediagonal,appearedanumber Sharon StoneinherGapbutton-downatthe1998Oscars.Pleats,whether cashmere zip-fronthoodiepairedwithapleatedballskirtlookedchicàla swing coatsincashmereortweedhadatouchofAudrey Hepburn,whilea a paletteofivory, blackandmetallicstoelegant,wearableresults.Snappy Valvo, butthisseasonthedesignertoneddownhisredcarpetpitch,working Carmen MarcValvo: irty collection ofcocktailwear, but,forthemostpart,minidresses Two monthsago,Rebecca Taylor’s doctororderedheronbed AccordingtoCynthiaRowley, theauroraborealisinspired ame printacrosstheskirt—seemedanaptmetaphor Joanna Mastroianni took a leap forward this season, and thisseason,and JoannaMastroiannitookaleapforward Statement-making gowns are de rigueur at Carmen Marc Statement-makinggownsarederigueuratCarmenMarc Rowley Cynthia WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12,2007 rmly groundedsomewherein es, things WWD.COM 11

PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA 12 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007 WWD.COM Fashion Scoops

SEXY BACK: With so much buzz about models and their Gisele future.” Other designers taking part include Richard Nicoll, Marios Schwab and Jonathan Saunders. weight last week, there’s clearly still plenty of room for Bündchen the curvaceous, healthy-looking Brazilian who was so au NOT ME: Kate Schelter danced the night away at the Zac Posen after party last Thursday but courant just a few years ago: Word is Gisele Bündchen will paused just long enough to deny a Page Six item that named her the likely suspect behind the walk the runway exclusively for Dolce & Gabbana in Milan Web site Socialiterank.com. “It was completely unfounded gossip,” she said with a smile. “One- later this month. The model could not be reached for hundred percent untrue. They should dig into my accountant’s receipts and look at all the money comment, and Dolce & Gabbana declined comment. I’m making from all my A-list clients.”

ON TARGET: Devi Kroell’s python, anaconda and karung BEHIND THE SCENES: Couldn’t get into Jean Paul Gaultier’s magic- bags with their often four-fi gure price tags aren’t for themed 30th anniversary party last October in Paris? (Who could, everyone. But the Manhattan accessories designer, who given the chaos at the door?) Consolation is at hand in a 256-page won Swarovski’s Award for Accessory Design photo book by Michel Haddi. It features fuzzy black-and-white snaps at the CFDA Awards in 2006, is said to be developing taken of the night’s performers, including Lily Cole, Suzy Menkes a more democratic style — for Target. Sources said and Hamish Bowles, plus the likes of Boy George and Janet Jackson Kroell is next in line to create an accessories line for hanging out with the designer. “Happy Birthday Glamour Puss! 30 the retailer, following Rafé New York, which launched Years of Jean Paul Gaultier,” which retails for $50, will be released for Target in November. “I admire the work of at the end of the month. Target and their sharp focus on great design. While I may have had conversations with Target about possible future SECOND HOME: It looks like Elie Tahari wants to charm the Old opportunities, there is simply nothing to share at this World. In January, the New York-based designer rented an 18,000- time,” said Kroell in a statement. On the other end of the square-foot palazzo in the heart of Milan that will house a sprawling spectrum, Kroell recently launched a bespoke collection, JOHN SHEARER/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY showroom, press offi ces and design studios. Word has it the featuring made-to-order bags in exotic skins such as Milanese headquarters, where he will present his fall collection to the European press on Feb. alligator and ostrich with the option of gold hardware set with precious stones, for her most 19, is a launching pad for him to raise his European profi le. affl uent and particular customers. Sources said Kroell, who is Devi Kroell also expecting her fi rst child in April, will launch her line with STAYING COOL: Zac Posen’s show Thursday night provided the usual mob of camera crews and Target sometime this year. A representative for Target declined photographers that have come to characterize his front-row scene. But at least one star was to comment. being mobbed not only by media lensmen but also by rabid fans: Sitting serenely in a chartreuse Zac Posen dress, pop singer Rihanna graciously posed for countless cell-phone and pocket-sized ROMAN HOLIDAY: Fendi, gearing up to launch a new women’s camera shots with fans as the paparazzi became increasingly incensed. “Let the professionals fragrance this summer, already has the campaign in the do their jobs!” bellowed one infuriated shooter. Their rabidity was somewhat understandable as can. Word has it Fendi ready-to-wear designer Karl Lagerfeld Rihanna was making her only fashion week appearance before jetting out to the Grammys. went to Rome to photograph the spots, which feature models A few seats down, Nicole Richie made a late appearance with Joel Madden by her side. It and Brad Kroenig. The scent, the fi rst to be seems the latter has plenty of experience with the front-row scene, having squired former fl ame launched under the auspices of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis to countless shows last season. Vuitton, is slated to arrive on counter in September. Across the aisle, proud parents Stephen and Susan Posen were observing the spectacle from third-row seats. Had Posen’s front row become so overinfl ated that even his parents couldn’t BASSO’S BFS: Patti LaBelle and Dennis Basso are “best buddies” make the cut? from 10 years back, but that doesn’t mean she offered him any “I always sit somewhere different at each show. I’ve been in the fi rst row, the last row, the pre-show pointers for his Bryant Park debut Friday. In fact, if middle.…This is my fi rst third-row experience,” explained Susan. “I like to see it from all anything, the designer gave her the lowdown. “He just told me different views. It’s like theater.” to wear one of his coats,” LaBelle said. With a gospel album Husband Stephen has his own show-going routine. “I always wear the same jacket,” he said topping the charts for the past nine weeks, the singer is still on of his grommet-emblazoned blazer. “It’s from the women’s line. After they realized I was going to tour at age 62 and has no plans to slow down. She is getting keep wearing it, they put in shoulder pads for me.” A good luck charm? her band, LaBelle, back together, and they will hit the road “Nah, I don’t need it,” he smiled. PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY next year. Away from her Philadelphia home and Nasir, her 150-pound South African boerboel, her on-the-road regime is MOORE DESIGN: Before heading for her appearance in “The Vertical Hour” on Broadway Thursday, pretty simple. “I pray a lot and do a little exercise because I have a little diabetes.” Julianne Moore buzzed by the Ralph Pucci Gallery to see her handiwork for Lutz + Patmos on Nearly 33 years after her band became the fi rst African-American contemporary act to display. Tina Lutz and Marcia Patmos recruited the actress to be their fall ’07 guest designer, and perform at the Metropolitan Opera House, LaBelle is about to be honored on her own. The Gay she whipped up a lightweight cardigan inspired by her favorite old sweater. It even has what looks and Lesbian Alliance Against Defamation will give her a special award, along with and like a sewn tear on the right shoulder, just like Moore’s tried-and-true one. “I love how lightweight tennis great Martina Navratilova in March. it is and how narrow the sleeves are.” Nearby, fellow front-rower Kim Cattrall was battling the sniffl es. While one might assume they Moore especially liked that her four-and- were a result of running to too many shows in inclement weather (she was bare-legged, after a-half-year-old daughter Liv accompanied all, at Monday morning), the actress, clad in a brown turtleneck and white fur, her to Lutz + Patmos for design meetings, claimed she caught it the night before from a fellow audience member at “.” “I went to but not enough to pursue any more fashion- a Broadway show last night and this guy next to me was sick. I think he gave me a cold,” she related alliances. “I’ll leave design to the said from her perch alongside socials like Nina Griscom, CeCe Cord, Marjorie Raein, Tiffany Dubin, professionals. Tina and Marcia are such lovely

Debbie Bancroft, Jill Roosevelt and Allison Sarofi m. people and are so gifted.” she said. “And ANTONOV PASHA PHOTO BY there’s nothing here I wouldn’t wear.” AHA!: Well, if anyone was wondering where the A-list was this fashion week, two members could Lutz + Patmos is returning the favor by be found Thursday afternoon at the new Roger Vivier boutique on Madison and 65th Street. Kate donating $30 of the purchase of each $475 Winslet and Gwyneth Paltrow both stopped by for separate appointments and to meet with creative sweater to the Tuberous Sclerosis Alliance, a director Bruno Frisoni. Winslet toured the new space and, with her stylist Tanya Gill, chose a charity Moore selected. Julianne Moore (center) shows off her new to wear to the BAFTA awards in London this past weekend. Paltrow, however, played it Glancing around the gallery at the sweater with Tina Lutz and Marcia Patmos. more low-key and engaged in a long, private conversation with Frisoni behind closed doors. designers’ knitwear displayed on Ralph Pucci’s mannequins, Moore said, “And this is so much better than a fashion show.” BRINGING TOMMY BACK: After taking two seasons off, Tommy Hilfi ger returned to Friday, but without the bold-face bling of his past. Still, Hilfi ger fi lled his front row at PIAGGI’S PICK: Fashion icon Anna Piaggi helped Yoox revamp its vintage store, which debuted Hammerstein Ballroom with some familiar faces: There was , who had been at Donna last week with nine midcentury gowns from Milanese dressmaker Tizzoni. Many are embroidered Karan earlier that day; Natalia Vodianova, who’d modeled at Calvin Klein Thursday; designer and beaded, such as a blue silk cocktail dress with a tulle underskirt, embellished with pearls, Rachel Roy and her husband, Damon Dash, and Michelle Williams, who’d been at just about rhinestones, and silver wire, for $2,750. The dresses come from Milan’s Cavalli & Nastri vintage store. everything. As for Tommy’s after party at Bungalow 8, the Olsen twins and Hugh Grant might not have shown, but that let Hilfi ger enjoy a family affair with his daughters and girlfriend of a year, CELEBRITY KID PARADE: Kids certainly ruled the runway when Child magazine hosted Dee Ocleppo. a celebrity-kid-infused show on Friday afternoon. While some of the models have walked the show before, there were some fi rst-timers there, including Diddy’s son Justin Combs, DOUBLE DUTY: Most designers are eager to take a break after showing their fall collection, but a Joseph “Rev Run” Simmons’ sons Russell and Daniel, and actress Ana Sophia Robb. Mayan gaggle of London’s new names is traveling to Milan straight after London Fashion Week to not Lopez (actor George Lopez’s daughter) modeled Hilary Duff’s new collection. Duff made only host a party, but to staff it, too. Giles Deacon will man the coat-check, Roksanda Illincic will the show to see her new line take the catwalk, and designer Cynthia Rowley was there act as a cigarette girl, Gareth Pugh will run the cocktail bar and Henry Holland will collect glasses, to cheer on her model daughter, Kit (her youngest, Gigi, opted out and took to Mom’s when, together with Pitti Immagine, the designers re-create for Milan the vibe of London club lap instead of the runway). 50 Cent (whose son, Marquise, aka 25 Cent, modeled) night Boombox. Boombox is the Sunday night club where Luella Bartley and Katie Grand have and Russell and Kimora Lee Simmons (daughters Ming Lee and Aoki Lee walked) been known to DJ and guests outdo each other with outrageous outfi ts. were also there to applaud their kids. “We are opening and closing the show,” During the event, which will be held Feb. 22 on Via Tortona, models wearing the designers’ said a proud Kimora Lee Simmons. “That’s the only way we do it, you know.” collections will mingle with clubgoers imported from the original Boombox night in London’s Hoxton Square. “This is not just a fashion party but a manifesto for our latest project,” said Lapo Cianchi, For reviews, Fashion Scoops and news communication and special projects director of Pitti Immagine. “Boombox is the perfect vehicle to realize this, through their ties with the pathfi nders of fashion who, we feel, are forecasting the throughout the day, visit fashiononsite.wwd.com WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007 13 WWD.COM Straightforward New York Season Pleases Buyers

By Sharon Edelson Doo.Ri, Rag & Bone and Chaiken.” Top trends: “We’re excited about the opaque leg, moving away NEW YORK — Designers played dress up for fall — and retailers from the legging and into tights.” were happy. New discoveries: Chris Benz Many houses turned to sharply tailored suits, pencil shirts and glamorous, body-clinging dresses as an antidote to the pre- Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director, vailing bohemian infl uences seen in recent collections. “What Neiman Marcus: looks new in New York when ubiquitous cropped jackets, de- Favorite collections: “, for having his fi nger on the fl ated volume skirts, shiny black tights and black patent pumps pulse of fashion; for a polished look and just are available at every price point? Dressing up!” said Michael a hint of Art Deco; for a superchic, super- Fink, Saks Fifth Avenue’s vice president and women’s fashion luxe collection; Phillip Lim, for a contemporary point of view, director. and Doo.Ri, for her use of jersey and her color sense.” The styles were a relief to retailers, who used words such as Top Trends: “A return to more of a polished look, the introduc- “ladylike,” “refi nement,” “simplicity” and “straightforward” to tion of the modern suit. We were pleased with the continuation describe a rich but not ostentatious sensibility. “Last season was of metallics. The dress continues to be very strong; it’s looking more intellectually challenging,” said Netaporter.com founder newest as a dress and coat combo. The sequin is the embellish- Nathalie Massenet. “We’re getting excited about the product. ment of the season as well as feathers and fur trim.” It’s stuff we all want to wear. Everything was eye candy.” If designers were prospecting for silver in the spring, they Nathalie Massenet, founder, Net-a-Porter.com: raised the ante for fall with liquid-gold treatments and mixed Favorite shows: “Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Proenza Schouler metallic looks such as gold, platinum and copper, often com- and ’s supercool and sharp collection. Oscar bined with black for a dramatic effect. One trend store execu- de la Renta was beautiful. We loved Luella Bartley for the jux- tives weren’t so sure about was the industrial zipper, which taposition of party dresses with riding boots, and Matthew appeared in several collections, sometimes for utilitarian pur- Williamson for his use of color. Also, Marchesa and Philosophy poses and other times as useless embellishment. Fashion di- di Alberta Ferretti.” rectors hailed the evolution of the covered leg, clad in opaque Top trends: “We’re loving the return to chic and pretty tights and tights with metallic sheen. and elegant.” Fur on the Here’s what buyers had to say on the New York collections: Oscar de Jennifer Wheeler, vice president of women’s designer apparel Meital Grantz, owner of Talulah G in Las Vegas and Newport la Renta at Nordstrom: Beach, Calif.: runway. Favorite shows: “Proenza Schouler’s was their best collec- Favorite shows: “Yigal Azrouël, Zac Posen, Vera Wang for day tion ever, Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein was so gorgeous, dresses and Michael Kors, which was better than it has been.” also Marc Jacobs and Oscar de la Renta. I loved what Isabel Disappointments: “Designers ripping off Rick Owens’ androge- [Toledo] has done with the Anne Klein collection. The coats, nous yet sexy feel, which could get a little bit boring. Jill Stuart A streamlined dresses and knits were really beautiful. The Michael Kors cus- was not as feminine as it usually is, and Peter Som’s dresses pantsuit at tomer is going to love what he did. He was at his best. We were were too serious.” Marc Jacobs. happy with how Phillip Lim’s collection is continuing to devel- Discoveries: “Sue Stemp. She’s my new favorite little op. The season is much more sophisticated and has a simple emerging designer.” refi nement to it. It’s cleaner, very straightforward but with a romance in all the details.” Lance Lawson and Jim Wetzel, owners of Jake in Chicago: Top trends: “Sleeveless or short-sleeved dresses layered over Favorite shows: and Doo.Ri, who pushed her- tops, cozy cardigan coats — the reason they looked so good was self forward, giving her signature jersey an edgy glamour.” because it was so darn cold— hosiery, metallics mixed with Top trends: “Fur, fur and more fur, the wide leg pant, layering.” black and footwear with chunkier heels and lace-up details.” Nicole Fischelis, vice president and fashion director for Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director of Macy’s East: : Favorite shows: “Marc Jacobs, , Proenza Favorite shows: “Isabel Toledo’s collection for Anne Klein was Schouler, Naum, Calvin Klein Collection, Ralph a great debut. Rodarte was brilliantly imaginative. Narciso Lauren, Vera Wang, Rag & Bone and Doo.Ri.” Rodriguez and Proenza Schouler looked very strong. Both Top trends: “I love the idea of activewear infusing Doo.Ri and Thakoon have come into their own, and 3.1 Phillip daywear. Also, there were knits with substance, Lim, too. Presentations from Isabel Tonchi, Lutz + Patmos and not just for sweaters but also jackets, coats and Alexander Wang were all great. Edun looked very cool in a dresses. Shine, particularly white gold.” performance at The Box.” Top trends: “I loved all the new knitwear, from oversized car- Jennafer Loporchio, Dighton-Rhode, digans to sweater dresses. The longer, leaner silhouette bal- Greenwich, Conn.: anced with fuller cocoon shapes is superchic. You can really Favorite shows: “Proenza Schouler for feel the infl uence of the upcoming Costume Institute’s exhibit the beading and their use of color. I on Poiret in the air.” loved Peter Som’s chunky cashmere sweater with pouf skirt, and he had Michael Fink, vice president and women’s fashion director, the most stunning broadtailed tra- Saks Fifth Avenue: peze coat, which we’ll be buying. Favorite shows: “Highlights include the simplicity of great I loved Sari Gueron’s coats with American sportswear at Marc Jacobs, a Connecticut-eccen- leather piping and her cap-sleeve tric attitude at Michael Kors, clean-line tailoring and va-voom dresses with French knot em- dresses at Zac Posen, the oddly hypnotic onion-dome hems at broidery. Bruce’s short-sleeved, Vera Wang, any black dress at Ralph Lauren and the coolest, heavy Indian embroidery dress geekiest girls at Chris Benz.” was amazing.” Top trends: “Dramatically shaped jackets and coats with lan- Disappointments: “I loved tern sleeves, rounded shoulders or voluminous backs paired Thakoon’s bubble skirts and the way with slimmer pants, pencil skirts or body-conscious dresses. he used volume, but a lot of it looked Burnished gold and copper metallic accents for daytime, lurex- like Lanvin, which was really sad. shot tweeds, pailette or sequin underpinnings often veiled Michon Shur was a disappointment. under black chiffon. Also, chunky, clunky stitch knits ranging The dresses looked like they’d been in shape from bolero-like peacoats to ankle-grazing cardigan done before. Vena Cava looked like coats. Feminine pleating and smocking details and feather spring. I didn’t see any growth there.” trims, which add just the right amount of tongue-in-cheek chic to an overly serious palette of black, gray and chocolate. Pumps Barbara Atkin, fashion director, Holt and the bootie-pump are the only shoes to own.” Renfrew: Favorite shows: “Marc Jacobs for swinging Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion offi ce and store the pendulum of fashion into a new direc- presentation, : tion, away from multilayers and into a Favorite shows: “Marc Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta, Thakoon, long, lean structured silhouette. Proenza Proenza Schouler, Narciso Rodriguez, Calvin Klein and Schouler for beautiful, modern sports- Donna Karan.” wear with impeccable details, Vera Wang Top trends: “A leaner, longer narrow silhouette, men’s wear, for pure art. Oscar de la Renta taking over- Phillip Lim’s knit dressing, shine, fur, fur, fur, fur. What’s interesting is the the-top luxury and embellishment and mak- dress worn innovative ways it is being used. Isaac [Mizrahi] used it as the ing it look modern, easy and not pretentious, over a blouse hem of a skirt as though it was a slip peeking out of the bot- and Zac Posen for his best collection, with was popular tom of a skirt, and Oscar used it peeking out as though it was beautiful, sexy cocktail dresses and all-out with retailers. a blouse.” glamour gowns.” One of the — With contributions from David Moin, chic geeks at Ann Watson, vice president and fashion director at Henri Bendel: Whitney Beckett and Marc Karimzadeh, Chris Benz’s Favorite shows: “Jovovich-Hawk, Josh Goot, Alexander Wang, New York, and Beth Wilson, Chicago presentation. 14 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007

Accessories Report Topping Temperley Marc Jacobs Michael Kors It All Off IANNACCONE he New York shows always come Tthrough with great American sportswear, and this season was no exception. But in a bit of a sur- prise, there was a major revival of millinery. Marc Jacobs, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Temperley all showed formal top- pings, from wide-brimmed styles to top hats and fedoras. Proenza Schouler and Erin Fetherston did versions with crystals and cloches with other monochromatic embel- lishments. DKNY and Ralph Lauren brought back the beret in an urban way, and Rodarte and Michael Kors had the frigid winter temperatures in mind in showing their big knit and mink toppers, respectively. Hats have long been a hard sell in the U.S., but Ed Burstell, Bergdorf Goodman’s senior vice president 3.1 Phillip Lim and general merchandise manager Erin Fetherston of beauty, jewelry and accessories, said, “I think that after several sea- sons, we are due for a hat revival. A big part of the new refi nement in fashion is fi nishing an outfi t, i.e., a hat or glove. Hats and caps will also be easier to wear this coming season, as the hair styles everywhere have all been pulled up and back, away from the face.” — Sophia Chabbott Proenza Schouler Rodarte KORS, RODARTE PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO; FETHERSTON, TEMPERLEY BY PASHA ANTONOV; SCHOULER, JACOBS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; LIM BY THOMAS GEORGE CHINSEE; LIM BY JACOBS BY SCHOULER, ANTONOV; PASHA JOHN AQUINO; FETHERSTON, TEMPERLEY BY PHOTOS BY RODARTE KORS, FINDINGS RIGHT ON TIME: Boucheron, best known for its glitzy baubles, is switching gears with its watch operations. The Paris house, owned by Group, has signed a three-year partnership with Swiss watchmaker Girard-Perregaux to make movements for its timepieces. The deal moves Boucheron away from the quartz movements used in its recent watches to more complicated mechanical workings, which are sought by collectors. The fi rst fruit of the collaboration features striking watches with bejeweled animals, such as a lizard or a turtle, poised on the face of the Boucheron’s Mec Jungle watch. Other models are more Tortue watch uses the traditional, with round faces new Girard-Perregaux in yellow or rose gold. Girard- movement. Perregaux, one of Switzerland’s most prestigious manufacturers, is celebrated for its highly complicated precision movements. Sales of Swiss watches last year grew almost 11 percent, capping a second consecutive year of double- digit gains, according to the Swiss Watch Federation.

JEWELS FOR THE FRANCOPHILE: Americans’ love affair with French fi ne jewelry as art and luxury is the focus of an exhibit in San Francisco’s Legion of Honor museum through June 10. The exhibit is traveling from the National Jewelry Institute at the Forbes Gallery in New York, where it opened in September, and has been bolstered in San Francisco with another 40 pieces. It is as much about enduring craftsmanship as it is about the owners of the pieces. “I wanted to focus on the celebrity of American collectors,” said Martin Chapman, curator of Masterpieces of French Jewelry at the Legion of Honor fi ne arts museum, fi ttingly a replica of the Palais de la Legion d’Honneur on Paris’ Left Bank. The exhibit is a dazzling display of France’s style-setting jewelry, including two Boucheron pieces of onyx, jade and coral from the Exposition des Arts Decoratifs of 1925, as well as many early Lalique pieces and contemporary items by JAR and Lorenz Baumer. Additions to the exhibit include a 1929 diamond necklace by Mauboussin worn by on the 2003 MTV video awards, when she kissed and Christina Aguilera. WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007 15 WWD.COM Pairing Up: Runway Collaborations a Mutual Benefi t

By Caroline Tell Sasha eason after season, fashion is becoming more of a collaborative effort. We wanted a nontraditional Primak at S Ready-to-wear designers are enlisting the help of accessories brands to add a “ Threeasfour. little oomph to their shows. These collaborations are mutually benefi cial — by show- way of promoting our product, ing on the runway, accessories brands are hoping to attract the right editorial and retail attention. and fashion and jewelry go Jewelry brand Erickson Beamon began accessorizing for Anna Sui’s runway in 1991. Today, the company known for putting chokers back on the map is also featured hand in hand. each season in the Temperley and DKNY shows. ” — Sasha Primak Co-founder Karen Erickson said she enjoys her biannual collaboration with Sui. “She’ll either have a specifi c vision of what she wants or I’ll try to follow her in- right collaboration is their partnership with Van spiration,” said Erickson. “Sometimes it takes examining the fabrics; sometimes you Cleef & Arpels. Kate Mulleavy said jewelry on the need to mind read.” runway helped complete the look. However, for this season’s Temperley show, stylist Katie Mossman picked out black “It’s more about helping the customer view our onyx cuffs and gold sphere-shaped rings that Erickson Beamon had already made. clothing in the reality of everyday life,” she said. “She walked in and said, ‘This is perfect. You’re working on what I want for Next up, New York-based Leiber will be Temperley,’” said Erickson. teaming up with Julien Macdonald Tuesday No one at Marc Jacobs’ fall show could miss the hats featured in almost every look. night at London Fashion Week. Stephen Jones, in addition to creating three collections a year for his own label, designs custom hats for Christian Dior , Comme des Garçons and Marc Jacobs. He has worked with Jacobs on his last two col- lections and with Galliano for 16 years. His fi rst partnership on the runway was with Jean Paul Gaultier in 1984. But Jones won’t work with just anyone. “We have to be good friends fi rst,” said the British milliner. “If I don’t know them, I won’t work with them. I have to meet with them, talk with them. I have to understand the aesthetic almost as much as they do.” Fine jewelry designer Sasha Primak introduced a partner- ship this season with the cut- ting-edge label Threeasfour. In trying to modernize his 27-year- old brand, Primak aimed to get his fashion-forward collection on the runway. “We wanted a nontraditional way of promoting our product, and fashion and jewelry go hand in hand,” said Primak. Fashion consultant Robert Burke of Robert Burke Associates agreed that accessories place- ment on the runway was a great way for a brand to create buzz. “It’s a very intelligent part- nership,” said Burke. “It’s great exposure for both brands. For a handbag or jewelry company, the runway gets them imme- diate attention they wouldn’t otherwise get. And it drives buyers into the showroom. The key is making the right collaboration.” According to Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte, the

An Erickson Beamon necklace at Anna Sui. THREEASFOUR BY TOM CONCORDIA/WIREIMAGE; ANNA SUI BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA TOM CONCORDIA/WIREIMAGE; ANNA SUI BY THREEASFOUR BY 16 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007

Innerwear Report SIL Themes: Global Growth, Produ

Selmark’s young contemporary lace numbers. A sexy By Karyn Monget by Natori selling for more than $1,000 each “fl ew out of the store last year.” cami-slip PARIS — Two overriding issues in the lin- “This year, we are doing kaftans with by Lisa’s gerie industry — expanding a global reach Carolina Herrera,” she said, adding that Folly. in distribution and sourcing and the col- “fun” merchandise from the U.S. like laboration on exclusive lines between mer- thongs by Hanky Panky are top sellers. chants and vendors — were in the forefront “We bought 10,000 pairs and put them at the Salon International de la Lingerie and by the cash register in different colors. Interfi lière trade fairs. Women buy 10 pair at a time.” The four-day Eurovet-operated shows, Eucovita Gonzalez, owner of which closed here Feb. 5, saw interaction be- Luintanilla-Nevado, a four-unit lingerie tween retailers and exhibitors sizing up the chain in Segovia, , said she found international marketplace for new channels some “terrifi c” full-fi gure bras by Prima of distribution as well as locations for store Donna, Felina, Lejaby and Barbara. launches and additional doors and discover- “I am so happy because this show ing innovative brands and products. understands the needs of a specialty re- Retailers reviewing collections at ex- tailer looking for top brands and quality hibitors’ stands included Neiman Marcus, lingerie,” Gonzalez said. Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom, J.C. Penney, The introduction of Fruit of the Bloomingdale’s, Henri Bendel, Victoria’s Loom underwear for women for the Secret and Style Avenue Middle East, the European market was new on the scene. Saks Fifth Avenue licensee based in Dubai. The line consists of four groups: True The show, which drew 21,976 visitors, Comfort, True Style, True Elegance served as a merchandising laboratory for and True Secrets. Jo Lewis, FTL’s retail smaller specialty boutiques and major retail- marketing manager, said the line was ers such as Kohl’s, which will introduce its “designed specifi cally for the European fi rst designer line of average-size bras bear- market with emphasis on everyday com- ing the Moments label in June, said Fran fort and simplicity.” Abranowicz, senior designer for private- The expansion of the Fruit of the brand intimate apparel at Kohl’s. Loom label in Europe follows an ag- Abercrombie & Fitch is also scouting gressive move by parent Berkshire for its own intimate apparel brand, accord- Hathaway Inc., which acquired Fruit of ing to a trend seminar presented by Jos the Loom Inc. in 2002 and signed a deal Berry, president and chief executive offi - in January to purchase VF Corp.’s inti- cer at Concepts Paris, a forecasting trend mate apparel business for $350 million. firm. Sylvia Harven, creative director of The deal is expected to be completed by Abercrombie & Fitch, was at Berry’s “The early March. Verde A full- Best of the Interfi lière” seminar, but she de- Meanwhile, main topics of dis- Veronica busted silk clined to give details of the retailer’s linge- cussion included the best venues in layers bra and rie launch, which industry executives expect which to develop new territories and seductive briefs by will be a major rollout by 2008. cultivate new consumers as competi- lace. Rosa Faia However, Harven said she was impressed tion grows fi erce for high-quality inti- by Anita. with the myriad presentations of trends at SIL. mate apparel and textiles that can be “We saw the Ultra Show, and it was over sourced and produced faster at sharper the top with a lot of seamless looks, a lot of price points. Identifying trends quickly Lurex and metallics, and a lot of baubles, and producing merchandise at a more pearls and bling,” Harven said. “It was very rapid pace to accommodate shorter opulent. Sleepwear was also incredible and lead times at retail were key. In some DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTOS BY SIL AND ULTRA looked like eveningwear or sportswear.” cases, fi nding quality, handcrafted re- Abranowicz, who noted Kohl’s proprietary sources, especially from China, is be- bra brand would be launched in more than coming a problem. 800 doors, said he was at the salon to glean Josie Natori, chairman and chief ex- forward concepts for spring 2008. ecutive offi cer of Natori Co., which ex- “Next year this time, we’ll also have coor- hibited the Josie, Natori and upscale dinating bottoms that will be fi xtured sepa- Josie Natori collections, said, “Nobody rately and sold in over 900 stores,” he said. in China now has the time or the incli- Lily Amir Arjomand, general merchan- nation to do handcrafted laces. It’s all dise manager for Saks in Dubai, said, “I done by computer. That’s why I recently knew exactly what I was looking for, and I went to India.” found it: bling. Everybody is enhanced, but Another factor expected to affect on top of that, they all want push-up looks. manufacturers and merchants is the I had to fi nd the sexiest lingerie with the increasing number of lingerie trade most bling, definitely with beading and shows. Swarovski crystal.” As retailers and vendors contem- Amir Arjomand noted that the best-selling plate how to juggle budgets and decide brands she ordered at SIL included I.D. Sarrieri, which trade shows to attend in the Lise Charmel, Roberto Cavalli and Christian U.S., Europe and Asia, two new major Lacroix. She added that one-of-a-kind kaftans shows are expected to dramatically WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007 17 WWD.COM ct Development Ultra Show’s Fashion Follies PARIS — About 500 guests turned out to view a combination of rock- Cadolle’s broaden Eurovet’s global presence in the international trade circuit: the Goth, cabaret-inspired looks and Fifties- inaugural Hong Kong Lingerie fair set for April 3 to 4 and an “exploratory Victoriana fantasy à la Josephine inspired salon” in Russia in 2008, said Marie-Laure Bellon-Homps, general manager at the Salon International de la look. of Eurovet. The giant trade show organizer is considering partnering with Lingerie’s annual fashion show. Alexander Federov, president of Wild Orchid Inc., which is based in Russia The Champagne event was and operates more than 110 Wild Orchid boutiques and 64 shops called staged to show how lingerie can Bustier, Bellon-Homps said. Another potential partner is Intercharme, a attain a couture level through cre- beauty products trade show staged in Russia in October. ativity, innovation and the use of “Our Shanghai show doubled textiles, laces and embroideries in size and attendance in just one that typically are not used in the Simone year,’’ Bellon-Homps said. “Shanghai commercial arena. Pérèle’s is a powerhouse in Asia, more than This year’s jury, presided over satin lace- Beijing. But Hong Kong is regarded by supermodel Eva Herzigova, up corset. as more relevant for companies included literary critic Fréderic from Japan and South Korea, and it Beigbeder; Jos Berry, chief execu- is viewed as politically correct with tive offi cer of Concepts Paris; cou- Taiwan. It’s an intermediate step, a ture designer Eymeric François; hub of distribution, and it’s very close Agathe Godard, reporter for to production and consumption. But Match magazine; Lydia Kamitsis, we’ll continue to stay in Shanghai, fashion historian; Edith Keller, which also is very important.” chief executive offi cer of Carlin Anne-Manuèle Hebert, Eurovet’s International; Anne de Sercey, international manager, said, “Hong lingerie consultant and designer, Kong is a platform we expect to and Jean-Pierre Vigato, owner grow in a big way. The forums, in as- and Michelin-star chef of Apicus sociation with Hong Kong Polytech restaurant in Paris. University, will help with inspiration Didier Grumbach, president of for innovation, creativity and even the Federation de la Couture, was the environment.” on hand to kick off the awards cer- Regarding Russia, Bellon-Homps emony after the show. said, “We are...testing a special- The winners of the three hon- ty event in Moscow, maybe after ors — Touch of Madness Award, the Paris salon in 2008, around the Award for Adventurous Use of Valentine’s Day. We already had a Materials and the Jury’s Special Passionata’s dinner with a panel of industry ex- Prize — were Cadolle, Passionata sheer An allover lace bodysuit by perts who said there is a need for a and Calvin Klein Underwear. bodysuit. Calvin Klein Underwear. [trade] show in Russia that features — K.M. quality lingerie. The idea will be to do a salon with a partner in place, perhaps associ- ated with a charity and a dinner, and attract people from the Ukraine and surrounding coun- tries, which total around 9 million inhabitants.” Bellon-Homps said the Shanghai Mode Lingerie fair on Oct. 26 to 27 and the upcoming Hong Kong venue would have no impact on Eurovet’s annual show in Paris and the Lyon Mode City fair in Lyon, France, Sept. 1 to 3. “As a matter of fact, we are seeing more visitors from China because of the exposure there. Two years ago, we had 1,000 Chinese visitors at the combined Paris and Lyon shows. Now, the potential is growing to 10,000.” As for Fedorov’s plans to further his retail reach abroad, the Russian architect-turned-retailer said, “I plan to open six concept stores in London this year and plan to later open stores in the U.S.” 18 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007 WWD.COM Children’s Wear Report Planet Funk Goes Younger With Play

By Emili Vesilind pint-size motorcycle is parked in each unit’s front window. There’s not a teddy bear in sight. LOS ANGELES — When brothers Oren and Noy Hayun, owners “There’s this disconnect when rock ’n’ roll types have little ones, of young contemporary retail chain Planet Funk, were mull- and they have to buy something with little pom-poms on it,” said ing over how to expand in 2005, they zeroed in on a fl ourishing Oren Hayun, who added that, before the concept was launched, market being pioneered by many of their best-selling vendors: premium brands would call the company to gauge its stance premium children’s wear. on selling kids’ products such as shrunk-down jeans. “There was a The resulting retail concept, Play@Planet Funk, corralled lot of interest in the kids’ market from the premium brands…but kids’ collections from established high-end sportswear brands when we launched, half the premium lines didn’t do kids.” — including True Religion, Trunk, Deisel and Seven For All More established companies have entered the kids’ market Mankind — with a handful of ultra-hip kids-only brands. since the concept made its debut, making it easier to stock a wide The concept, which targets label-conscious parents and gift-giv- and varied selection of stylish kids’ clothes, said Oren Hayun. ers, is growing despite the high prices of much of its merchandise. Echoing a sentiment heard throughout the kids’ wear mar- The company, based here, ket, he said, “The strength is in launched a 1,600-square-foot [looks] that make kids look like Play@Planet Funk store in little adults,” adding that brands Dallas’ NorthPark Center mall with established young contem- on Jan. 11 and will open a fourth porary and contemporary lines unit at the Westside Pavilion sold more strongly than pure Juicy Couture Baby’s here in mid-2007. kids’ brands. Top-selling brands tracksuit for boys.

The fi rst Play location opened NAN COULTER PHOTOS BY include Antik Denim, Seven For in 2005 at Westfield Fashion All Mankind, Rock & Republic Square mall in Sherman Oaks, and True Religion. Calif., and the second was Prices are steep, consider- launched last August at Westfi eld ing the rate at which kids out- Juicy Couture Valley Fair shopping center in grow their clothes. Antik Denim, Santa Clarita, Calif. The company Rock & Republic and Seven For Catches Baby Fever operates 14 young contemporary All Mankind jeans for toddlers Planet Funk stores throughout and girls retail for about $150; uicy Couture has gone baby crazy. California, and a 15th unit is to a Miss Sixty kimono-style wrap J The company, owned by Liz open at Westfi eld San Francisco top sells for $85; L.A.M.B. tennis Claiborne Inc., will launch a full col- shopping center this year. shoes are between $49 and $69; lection of baby clothes, called Juicy “There was really nowhere to a Diesel nylon bomber jacket Couture Baby, for girls and boys this Inside the new Play@Planet Funk store. shop for high-end [kids’] brands sells for $95, and Ed Hardy mesh spring. when we started,” said Oren trucker hats retail for $44. Still, “Baby fever has hit our Juicy Hayun, 33. “The department stores would have a kids’ section, the brothers said stores haven’t met with much price resistance world,” said co-founder Pamela but overall, it was so froufrou.” from shoppers beyond the fi rst month of opening. Skaist-Levy. “It seems like every ‘It’ In creating the Play stores, the company designed a no-frills The success of both Planet Funk and Play@Planet Funk has been girl is having a baby and all they want atmosphere that would engage parents — after all, they have based largely on the merchandising of denim, a less stable business to wear is Juicy, [so] all they want the credit cards — more than kids. format than in years past. But Oren Hayun maintained that both their babies to be wearing is Juicy.” “We thought, ‘What we’re doing for adults, we can do for kids, stores would adapt to new trends, noting, “For the Play concept, it’s The new line consists of every- too,’” said Noy Hayun, 34, who has three children under the age of not so much about the denim as it is the premium brands.” thing from bibs to blankets, swim- six. “I was out there in the market. I knew what was out there.” The company hopes eventually to grow the concept to 25 suits, T-shirts, onesies and, of course, Floors and ceilings have an industrial feel, and apparel percent to 30 percent of total company sales, about the same tracksuits. hangs in inset wall displays that are backlit in neon blue. A percentage of its young men’s sales at Planet Funk stores. The Juicy sense of humor is as clear in the baby line as in the adult version; baby bikini bottoms say “Juicy” on the rear and a sun hat reads, “Be Juicy” on the top. Wholesaling from $16 to $62, the Roxy and Quiksilver Get on Board With Baby Surfers line will be sold in the children’s section of the company’s New York LOS ANGELES — Devotees of surf lifestyle brands Quiksilver very delicate balance.” fl agship at 368 Bleecker Street, the and Roxy may now outfi t their babies in the brands’ famous Still, company executives said requests from retailers for Juicy Couture store on Madison boardshorts and hibiscus-print dresses. an infant line were too numerous to ignore. Avenue and at the Grant Avenue lo- Quiksilver Inc., based in Costa Mesa, Calif., has extended “We have had signifi cant call-out to add this size range in cation in San Francisco. It also will its toddler lines, Roxy’s Teenie Wahini and Quiksilver Boys, our line, so the retailers are very excited to have it,” Kelly said. be available at many of Juicy’s cur- to include infants’ sizes. The two brands work independently of each other, but rent wholesale accounts, such as “We’ve been getting a lot of call-outs for infant [apparel], launched the infants’ lines simultaneously. The design team Bloomingdale’s, Neiman Marcus, and we thought, why not?” said Anne Kelly, at Roxy modifi es looks it creates for tod- Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom. national sales manager for Roxy’s kids’ col- dlers to infants’ specifi cations, removing “For me, it became a world about lection. “We were thinking, ‘If the brands any glitter or rhinestones and retooling the babies when Pam’s son, Noah [now are already really successful, how can we fi t. At Quiksilver, the designs are more close- 6], was born,” said Gela Nash-Taylor, make them even more successful?’” ly linked to what’s happening in the men’s co-founder. “He was our Juicy muse The idea was a long time coming. wear category. “We start with men’s styles… and inspiration.” “We’ve been talking about doing infants’ and keep taking it down,” Rosenberger said. — Julee Greenberg for a few years,” said Dave Rosenberger, “The closer we get to infant, the smaller the vice president of sales for Quiksilver’s number of [stockkeeping units], but you can boys’ division. “I think the bottom line trace it back to the men’s line.” A tracksuit was, our brand has been The collection wholesales from $9 to $17 for girls. around for 30-some years an item. Bestsellers at Roxy include roll- and it’s been through a cuff jeans, yoga-style warm-up suits and few generations. You camoufl age pants. Boardshorts and zip-up look around, you see all hoodies top the list at Quiksilver. Shrunken- these fathers aged 28 to down styles are the strongest sellers, but the 40. It seemed like a re- dominant colors in the Roxy line are classic ally natural product little girl — pastel pink and turquoise. extension.” Monica Paull, director of communications The subcollec- at Roxy, added that the line’s reasonable tions, Roxy Teenie prices had hit big with shoppers. “The price Wahini Infant and points on items is so high on brands like True Quiksilver Infant, Religion and Marc Jacobs,” she said. “This shrink classic surf-in- Left: A look from Roxy’s Teenie Wahini packs the same punch [as premium brands], spired Quiksilver and line. Above: A look from Quiksilver. but the price makes it more appealing.” Roxy designs, including Initial distribution of the infants’ lines boardshorts and logo for holiday 2006 was kept small. “The collec- zip-up hoodies, to sizes 12, 18 and 24. tions shipped to 40 Macy’s and Nordstrom stores in December, Roxy has been shifting the age of and about 50 to 60 doors with core specialty surf shops, plus a its target customer to 17 from 15 for few better children’s boutiques,” Rosenberger said. the last three years, said Randy Hild, A full launch of both lines is scheduled for this spring. Roxy’s senior vice president of global “Our brand is so aspirational, and that goes into the kids’ marketing, who acknowledged that intro- wear, too,’’ Kelly said. “There’s a certain novelty to having ducing an infants’ line while trying to age your kid look like a little surfer.” up a brand “can drag you down. It’s a — E.V., with contributions from Khanh T.L. Tran PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY ROXY PHOTO BY TYLER BOYE; MODEL: MILA TYLER BOYE; RUBENSTEIN/FORD ROXY PHOTO BY

20 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007 WWD.COM Financial Analysts See Shift in Consumer Spending Habits rchstone Consulting recently completed its led the team that conducted the retail survey, Still, some retailers did well, Archstone oriented shopper was its ability to provide a bit of Afourth annual post-holiday survey of the added, “The online deals were also strong this said, and they managed to navigate the a treasure hunt by stocking cashmere sweaters season and noted strong results from Tiffany’s, year. Some retailers put up a Web site for the challenges of 2006: Tiffany’s, Costco, Best Buy and other luxury offerings at reasonable prices. Costco and Coach, as well as a structural fi rst time this year, while others learned how and Circuit City, and Coach. “They do a fantastic job at merchandising, change in how consumers are shopping. to improve theirs. The Web was clearly an The Archstone study concluded that surprising and delighting shoppers. The apparel Todd Lavieri, president and chief executive opportunity for many companies.” Tiffany, “despite increasing competition from is good-quality merchandise, and you fi nd many offi cer of the fi rm, said in an interview that To be sure, retailers may also be partly to low-cost online wholesalers, [was able to name brands in the store.” the structural change had to do with gift cards blame. According to Buss, “Retailers used leverage] its reputation for superior quality For upscale handbags that represent both and gift certifi cates. to start early discounting after Thanksgiving. and service along with a unique, experiential affordable and accessible luxury, Coach was “It is a $25 billion category and takes Now, it is earlier than that, making the holiday shopping environment to drive strong sales.” the standout, according to the Archstone revenue out of traditional holiday spending season more and more extended.” According to Lavieri, “As with any holiday survey. Its unique retail strategy of selling full- from the stores. The other thing is that we Among the factors for lackluster sales season, those with the wealth and means will price totes and accessories in urban areas and cannot overlook the economic infl uence on at the brick-and-mortar stores are growing spend at holiday. There is a correlation between different, albeit lower-price items at its outlet consumers. This year, there was over $500 household debt, rising sales of gift cards and Tiffany and how well the fi nancial industry does stores allows Coach to “avoid subsidizing billion that did not go into consumers’ hands the unseasonably warm temperatures that — the stock market and Wall Street — which purchases by discounting items for customers due to fewer refi nancings because interest caused cold-weather inventory to languish on translates into spending at its doors and the who would be willing to pay full price,” the rates have gone up.” the sales racks. And there was no hot new giving of the [signature robin’s-egg] blue boxes.” survey concluded. Andrew Buss, a director at Archstone who must-have item in fashion. Buss said Costco’s allure for the value- — Vicki M. Young

Weekly Stocks Fast Stats 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE 83.82 49.98 Abercrombie & Fitch 18.8 107588 81.19 0.42 36.10 27.30 Jones Apparel 21.2 32755 33.78 -0.16 Sears Holdings Corp. 28.09 19.51 Acadia 47.9 22600 27.46 1.11 48.12 22.14 Jos. A. Bank 14.9 22567 30.64 -0.66 stock price Feb. 8, 2006: 38.99 21.07 Aéropostale 22.6 72698 37.39 1.34 34.84 24.32 Kellwood 36.4 13005 32.49 0.00 23.72 17.01 Alberto Culver 10.2 74945 22.94 -0.05 28.72 21.75 Kenneth Cole 18.1 3416 23.80 -0.06 $180.81 3.19 1.88 Alpha Pro Tech 24.6 3486 2.94 0.15 69.97 56.86 Kimberly Clark 17.5 70381 68.34 -1.13 34.80 16.57 American Eagle Outfitters 21.1 166161 31.65 -0.63 52.82 33.65 Kimco Realty 35.0 90461 51.88 1.41 45.15 32.25 Ann Taylor 17.1 85085 34.98 -0.35 75.54 44.44 Kohl’s 24.6 100658 72.47 -0.68 Sears Holdings Corp. stock 10.45 6.17 Ashworth 114.4 2119 7.96 0.38 37.81 22.54 K-Swiss 15.0 16302 33.10 0.49 price May 3, 2003: $15.00 38.62 26.16 Avon 35.6 249797 39.06 3.89 13.98 10.85 LaCrosse Footwear 13.1 398 13.70 0.07 23.03 8.63 Bakers 38.5 326 11.70 0.20 18.86 11.37 Lakeland Inds 14.2 2092 13.75 -1.05 26.86 14.07 Bebe 21.3 45331 18.32 -0.67 32.60 22.80 Limited Brands 15.4 185908 28.50 -0.06 Return of Sears Holdings 40.00 23.80 Benetton 45.2 801 33.79 -0.31 21.95 8.66 Liquidity Services 63.7 33400 22.75 3.13 16.50 8.75 Big Dog 87.6 429 15.60 -0.20 46.18 33.62 17.8 34585 45.14 0.74 Corp. since May 3, 2003: 7.85 6.01 Birks & Mayors 8.5 70 7.04 -0.07 7.85 2.69 LJ Intl. 34.0 33180 8.12 1.26 +1,105% 33.07 25.18 BJs 18.7 39357 31.40 0.05 31.58 24.17 Luxottica 28.4 2918 31.28 0.24 46.44 23.73 Blair 18.9 420 42.08 -0.17 103.59 67.11 Macerich 159.4 35908 100.10 3.50 6.80 1.48 Blue 16.0 47440 2.25 0.56 22.84 8.49 Maidenform 19.4 8510 20.74 0.99 U.S. exports 2006 (in 1.60 0.68 Bluefly - 8606 1.19 -0.07 44.80 29.81 Men’s Wearhouse 18.4 20432 43.56 -0.26 44.33 18.88 Bon-Ton - 17239 43.07 5.75 26.31 15.20 Marcus 24.6 3420 23.14 -1.02 millions): $949,136 56.21 29.03 Brown Shoe 23.9 15046 56.09 2.02 57.65 19.15 Mothers Work 19.4 7371 35.35 0.42 36.65 22.25 Buckle 19.8 12530 36.95 3.08 30.05 17.91 Movado 19.7 8150 29.69 0.17 26.32 15.00 Caché 42.8 13182 23.09 -0.97 2.97 0.63 Movie Star - 4051 2.38 -0.21 U.S. imports 2006 (in 35.24 21.08 Carter 18.5 39464 24.66 -0.32 25.95 18.81 National Retail Properties 21.7 71138 24.89 0.19 millions): $1,699,856 15.10 8.20 Casual Male 26.7 50644 12.77 0.29 30.77 22.80 New Plan Excel Realty 33.2 58390 30.29 0.86 26.70 19.43 Cato 14.2 6108 22.75 -0.06 18.23 9.41 New York & Co. 19.0 10636 14.68 -0.05 50.36 35.80 CBL 40.3 34863 48.25 0.64 103.70 75.52 Nike 19.4 94304 103.60 3.40 U.S. trade defi cit 2006 (in 12.74 9.15 CCA 13.2 349 11.66 0.56 9.38 3.63 Nitches 24.7 4011 5.85 -0.77 15.86 7.01 Charles & Colvard 23.3 2916 7.45 0.02 57.25 31.77 Nordstrom 23.6 89321 56.88 0.20 millions): $750,720 33.93 16.50 Charlotte Russe 17.3 37416 30.01 -0.28 23.80 14.18 Oakley 33.1 17281 22.26 -1.03 15.57 9.69 Charming Shoppes 15.3 76403 12.86 -0.39 16.58 1.65 Oralabs 40.7 3871 5.14 -5.73 58.75 27.99 Chattem 26.0 8365 57.42 -0.17 6.00 3.25 Orange 21 - 1588 5.48 0.19 U.S. trade defi cit 1989 (in 46.23 33.65 Cherokee 20.9 1406 43.50 -0.67 11.55 6.90 Orchids Paper 286.3 190 8.50 -0.05 millions): $109,399 49.40 17.26 Chico’s 20.5 116135 21.37 -0.53 53.98 34.34 Oxford 16.3 6093 46.99 -1.07 71.81 42.33 Children’s Place 22.0 35098 56.50 -1.81 25.26 13.12 Pacific Sunwear 18.6 98532 19.36 -0.66 31.25 17.53 Christopher & Banks 17.6 33317 18.21 -0.01 19.24 4.43 Parlux Fragrances 26.7 95038 7.25 1.02 First designer-branded car: 44.30 34.57 Cintas 20.3 43238 41.74 0.53 23.45 17.00 Paxar 20.0 13833 22.46 0.36 57.85 26.78 Citi Trends 31.5 20410 45.88 6.47 35.14 20.36 Payless Shoes 23.2 46548 31.63 -3.33 1972 AMC Hornet by 37.49 23.88 Claire’s Stores 20.2 81410 35.48 0.99 30.36 13.49 Perry Ellis 21.8 4594 29.63 -0.56 Gucci 47.63 25.18 Coach 30.5 121078 46.86 -0.25 56.46 32.21 Phillips-Van Heusen 20.7 16631 54.06 -0.93 31.26 17.96 Coldwater Creek 31.7 158834 19.21 0.09 6.09 3.00 Phoenix Footwear 13.3 666 5.34 -0.05 68.56 53.64 Colgate Palmolive 21.3 93221 66.92 -0.82 15.01 9.30 Playtex 79.3 23969 14.29 0.35 66.77 42.85 Columbia Sportswear 19.7 14284 65.00 -0.01 85.15 45.65 Polo Ralph Lauren 22.4 50936 83.52 -0.01 41.81 17.61 Conns 15.8 9745 27.41 0.94 20.64 7.55 PriceSmart 39.0 5475 14.87 -1.49 SOURCE: DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE, 57.94 46.00 Costco 23.5 158529 55.98 -0.03 3.00 0.92 Quaker Fabric - 1717 1.34 0.15 S&P RATINGS SERVICE 9.45 7.13 Cost U Less 12.1 427 8.98 0.25 16.08 11.60 Quiksilver 19.1 147131 14.04 -0.14 58.57 20.32 Crocs 43.1 105919 54.15 -0.64 7.65 5.52 R.G. Barry 14.3 614 7.35 0.89 6.97 4.24 Culp - 276 6.74 0.14 39.55 25.81 Ramco-Gershenson 68.7 10238 37.78 0.03 13.48 9.02 Cutter & Buck 18.0 504 13.30 0.30 93.49 59.04 Regency Centers 31.7 28956 90.73 2.16 Stock Market Index 5.05 1.85 Cygne Designs - 323 2.08 -0.03 21.06 12.35 Retail Ventures - 19638 20.36 0.17 32.26 21.34 Deb Shops 17.4 534 28.38 -0.45 3.63 0.76 Revlon - 103282 1.41 -0.08 64.90 31.00 Deckers Outdoor 25.6 23120 62.97 4.65 26.70 9.73 Rocky Brands 11.0 1490 15.38 -0.12 12.00 6.61 Delia’s 57.3 7255 10.33 -0.35 33.63 22.12 Ross Stores 21.2 51312 32.76 0.16 20.50 15.19 Delta Apparel 12.5 175 16.51 -0.23 21.45 14.10 Saks 29.6 114708 20.74 1.30 Composite 10.58 6.02 Delta Galil - 48 7.97 -0.17 182.80 115.95 Sears 21.3 117974 181.47 4.34 1054.04 72.07 47.50 Developers Diversified 43.5 47944 70.54 2.76 33.28 19.25 Shoe Carnival 20.0 5450 30.30 -2.16 36.47 23.94 Dillard’s 15.1 48487 35.07 0.09 10.12 5.19 Shoe Pavilion 29.2 1375 7.35 0.65 18.32 12.10 Dollar General 22.8 107101 16.54 -0.69 123.96 76.14 Simon Properties 55.1 128755 118.22 3.26 28.09 16.91 Dress Barn 15.8 40264 21.30 -1.53 36.80 18.30 Skechers 23.2 25318 34.74 -1.37 43.46 26.58 DSW 32.6 25251 41.87 0.85 6.16 3.68 Sport-Haley - 1776 4.25 -0.95 42.06 22.34 Duckwall-Alco 24.3 1268 38.95 4.47 18.14 11.27 Stein Mart 16.9 12033 14.41 0.80 15.55 6.50 Eddie Bauer - 88859 9.17 0.03 3.81 2.83 Stephan 41.0 28 3.70 0.05 24.58 13.63 Elizabeth Arden 25.5 21387 21.50 1.00 44.70 20.35 Steve Madden 14.9 13874 30.52 -0.70 4.93 48.15 34.81 Estée Lauder 25.6 85321 46.63 0.50 18.00 11.90 Stride Rite 16.7 8906 16.99 -0.31 20.63 11.05 Everlast Worldwide 14.6 597 16.81 -0.20 13.54 10.88 Superior Uniform 37.4 102 12.68 -0.06 33.31 21.57 Family Dollar 24.0 90288 31.20 -1.30 21.24 14.20 Syms 32.5 446 19.53 0.43 45.01 32.57 Federated Department 23.3 267979 43.04 1.16 1.66 0.38 Tag-It - 4504 1.48 0.03 18.28 9.55 Finish Line 15.2 47028 12.22 -0.50 31.00 17.30 Talbots 25.2 27111 24.39 0.28 26.16 24.58 Forest City 31.6 18 25.30 0.02 13.55 9.27 Tandy Brands - 279 12.92 0.43 23.52 15.89 Fossil 24.6 17583 22.88 0.02 8.32 5.75 Tandy Leather Factory 18.7 794 7.89 -0.11 Weekly % Changes 15.32 11.30 Freds 21.2 24243 14.10 -0.15 43.56 29.67 Tanger Factory Outlet 105.0 16053 42.89 1.03 42.95 31.12 G&K 20.7 3878 38.92 0.54 63.20 44.70 Target 20.8 158766 61.67 -0.36 (ending Feb. 9) 19.98 9.80 Gaiam 84.1 14583 12.43 0.02 2.20 1.03 Tarrant Apparel - 5243 1.63 0.18 21.39 15.91 Gap 18.6 325953 19.55 0.08 63.58 36.69 Taubman 153.6 35923 62.29 2.91 Gainers Close Change 66.85 41.92 General Growth 324.5 141326 62.18 0.70 13.73 8.15 Tefron 17.1 716 10.42 0.07 43.72 25.50 Genesco 15.4 15150 42.33 1.47 41.70 29.63 Tiffany & Co. 23.2 89786 41.42 1.67 Blue 2.25 33.14 25.42 7.91 G-III Apparel 34.4 6455 25.00 2.34 37.61 24.80 Timberland 17.3 35581 28.75 -1.62 55.79 38.24 Gildan Activewear 30.0 11015 51.91 0.12 30.24 22.16 TJ Maxx 16.0 144464 28.09 -0.60 Wellco 13.76 27.64 29.10 23.08 Glimcher 109.6 13424 28.59 0.96 24.36 14.65 True Religion 18.5 24492 18.65 1.68 11.89 6.29 Gottschalks 61.5 1286 11.03 -0.09 44.53 28.80 Tween Brands 18.2 42438 35.41 0.55 LJ Intl. 8.12 18.37 78.85 33.95 Guess 32.0 26295 72.95 0.40 54.00 25.85 Under Armour 58.9 57387 48.08 2.28 Citi Trends 45.88 16.42 49.11 21.79 Gymboree 21.2 68417 36.83 -8.35 3.76 1.69 Unifi - 17513 2.89 0.03 150.00 77.30 Hallwood 5.6 1 104.76 2.26 44.43 28.65 Unifirst 18.8 18901 43.88 -0.12 Parlux Fragrances 7.25 16.37 24.80 11.76 Hampshire 9.3 282 13.70 -0.20 20.78 12.06 United Retail 6.7 9379 14.01 -0.49 26.06 17.75 Hanesbrands - 26093 25.20 -0.12 29.15 13.65 Urban Outfitters 36.0 106109 24.90 -0.26 9.97 5.50 Hartmarx 35.0 4844 6.82 -0.15 83.29 53.25 V.F. Corp. 15.8 42405 76.11 -0.01 Decliners Close Change 25.50 16.18 Helen of Troy 15.4 9092 23.92 -0.02 41.40 18.24 Volcom 29.0 7904 33.37 0.58 15.64 9.43 Hot Topic 29.4 68082 10.41 -0.28 52.15 42.31 Wal-Mart 17.3 564289 47.97 -0.11 Oralabs 5.14 -52.71 7.00 0.95 House of Taylor Jewelry - 7276 3.98 0.13 28.47 15.75 Warnaco 25.4 19469 26.31 -1.46 40.13 23.54 IAC Interactive 70.0 146479 39.62 0.99 13.85 10.50 Wellco 17.0 825 13.76 2.98 Gymboree 36.83 -18.48 21.62 12.23 Iconix 23.2 25421 19.49 -0.71 52.30 36.77 Weingarten 29.4 48581 51.91 2.12 1.45 0.37 Innovo - 19903 1.16 -0.16 25.72 18.76 Weyco 14.2 494 24.78 -0.13 Sport-Haley 4.25 -18.27 21.77 15.39 Inter Parfums 24.9 2438 19.41 -0.26 4.13 1.65 Wilsons - 2663 1.87 -0.09 43.56 24.00 J. Crew - 33003 36.45 -1.02 31.08 20.26 Wolverine 20.9 11480 29.67 -0.01 Innovo 1.16 -12.12 85.68 54.18 J.C. Penney 17.5 89883 82.85 -0.85 31.72 21.01 Zale 28.4 26701 29.40 1.30 Nitches 5.85 -11.63 11.83 7.15 Jaclyn 15.2 101 11.48 0.54 38.85 20.00 Zumiez 59.8 41777 36.18 2.50

22 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007

Financial Electronics, Home Goods Citigroup Research Report: Hampering Apparel Sales Liz Might Be LBO Target By Arthur Zaczkiewicz NEW YORK — The second an- is potential for high fashion risk. times 2008 earnings per share, but NEW YORK — Cooler temperatures and gift cards may have helped nual leveraged buyout report of Broadlines analysts Deborah that is at a “12.5 percent discount apparel sales in January, but the sector remains under pressure the Citigroup Research Retail Weinswig and Charmaine Tang to its apparel manufacturing from other product categories such as home goods and electronics. Team concludes that LBOs will noted BJ’s Wholesale Club as an peers.” The company has strong According to consumer expenditure data from the Bureau of remain active in 2007, and that attractive candidate for an LBO. cash fl ow generation, and could Economic Analysis, a division of the U.S. Department of Commerce, apparel giant Liz Claiborne They estimated an internal rate get $50 per share from a prospec- spending on clothes and shoes jumped 1.8 percent from the third might represent the most at- quarter to the fourth quarter of 2006. This compares with a growth tractive takeover candidate. A continued strong economy and low rate of 3.4 percent for furniture and household equipment, which The report said that Citi- includes electronics. group’s Risk Arbitrage team “interest rates should continue to fuel On a year-over-year basis, the pace of consumer spending on home “believes that a continued goods and electronics versus apparel was even greater. Fourth-quar- strong economy and low inter- leveraged buyouts. ter spending on apparel and shoes rose 4.3 percent year over year est rates should continue to while spending on home goods and electronics leaped 12 percent. fuel leveraged buyouts.” —” Citigroup Retail Team report So far during the fi rst quarter of this year, apparel sales have While softlines analyst shown some strength. January same-store sales for department Kimberly Greenberger said Hot of return of 21 percent, within the tive private equity sponsor. stores rose 6.5 percent on average, and analysts cited a positive re- Topic, Children’s Place, Tween 18 to 22 percent range Citigroup’s “We think the company’s di- action by consumers to “fashion-right” apparel and accessories. Brands and Abercrombie & Fitch Risk Arbitrage team leader verse portfolio of brands, its Some of the top gainers in same-store sales in the channel were are the most attractive privatiza- Shawn Collins said is what pri- proactive strategy to increase Saks Fifth Avenue Enterprises, Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus, tion candidates, she also pointed vate equity buyers are seeking its retail presence and its strong which posted gains of 11.4 percent, 11.1 percent and 11.3 percent, out that specialty retailers in for retailers such as BJ’s. balance sheet enable the com- respectively. general aren’t always the most at- On the apparel and footwear pany to capture future growth tractive targets of private equity side, Kate McShane’s analysis opportunities. to the company’s investors because they tend not suggests a rate of return for equity strategy to expand its retail busi- Apparel has only seen a 5 percent to own any underlying assets, as sponsors of 18 percent. According ness,” McShane wrote. year-over-year“ growth from December most stores are leased and there to McShane, Liz is trading at 11.8 — Vicki M. Young 2005 to December 2006. Electronics and ladies’ accessories in June 2006 and then have had a triple-growth rate. transferred the trademark to The Helen Welsh ” Group without permission. Spataro also alleged the defendants continued to use the trademarks — Craig Johnson, Customer Growth Partners after the company terminated use of the trade- mark. Spataro asked for more than $1 million in In the specialty apparel channel, the gains were not as strong. Of damages. The defendants fi led an answer and the specialty companies tracked by WWD, the average increase was J. Marcus Wholesalers Inc. and The Paradies counterclaim that denied all the allegations of 2.2 percent, which compares with 8.8 percent in the same month last Shops Inc. filed a complaint against Louis Spataro’s complaint and said the license agree- year. Overall, though, results were better than expected. Vuitton Malletier SA, asking the court for a ment is intact. They also alleged that Spataro Goldman Sachs analyst Margaret Mager said in a post-comps declaration of noninfringement. According to misrepresented an order it had prior to signing report last Friday that the Goldman Sachs Retail Composite Index court documents filed in the Western District the license agreement. Both claims are pending. gained 3 percent in January, “above our 1.3 percent estimate, helped of Pennsylvania, the plaintiffs want the court Van Cleef & Arpels Inc., Van Cleef & Arpels by results at the Gap, where same-store sales were fl at against our to issue a judgment that the “inexpensive fab- Logistics SA and Van Cleef & Arpels distribution (and consensus) expectations for [them to be] down mid- to high-sin- ric travel bags supplied by J. Marcus and sold fi led two unrelated trade-dress and copyright gle-digit percent.” by Paradies” do not infringe on a Louis Vuitton infringement lawsuits over its Alhambra jew- Mager said the sector “was helped by cooler weather and gift- Malletier trademark. Louis Vuitton SA did not elry design in Manhattan federal court on Jan. card redemptions.” She added, “Most companies appear to have respond to requests for comment. The com- 24. One case was fi led against Landau Jewelry fi nished the quarter with clean inventory levels.” plaint said the merchandise in question are and the other against Zirconmania and Jacob Retailers are going to need to be lean and mean this year. Several fabric bags with a dark-brown and light-brown Hassidim. Both lawsuits asked for a permanent equity fi rms, including Goldman Sachs, expect continuing price checkerboard pattern that retail for $9.99 to injunction and fi nancial damages. Zirconmania declines in consumer electronics, especially fl at-panel TVs. Price $39.99 with no identifying characteristics on did not respond to requests for comment. points are expected to drop 30 percent this year on fl at panels and them. Louis Vuitton sent Paradies a cease-and- Landau could be not reached by press time. total volume growth could rise at least 15 percent. As the industry desist letter in December, according to court pa- On Jan. 11, the 2nd U.S. Circuit Court of saw in the fourth quarter of 2006, this could steer shoppers away pers. J. Marcus and Paradies asked the court for Appeals affi rmed a May 2006 ruling from Judge from apparel. a declaratory judgment and to recover the cost Richard Berman in Manhattan in favor of Craig Johnson, president of Customer Growth Partners, said of the litigation from Louis Vuitton. Burlington Coat Factory in a trademark infringe- while there was no “mathematically direct parallel” between ap- Maurizio Spataro fi led a complaint in New ment lawsuit brought against the company by parel and fl at-panel television sales, “there is more of an indirect York Supreme Court against Concept One Louis Vuitton, according to Burlington’s lawyers. substitution effect. Accessories LLC, Concept Two Accessories, Sam In May, the judge denied Louis Vuitton’s motion “The year-over-year 15 percent increase in electronics for the hol- Hafi f and The Helen Welsh Group for a dispute in- for a preliminary injunction barring Burlington iday has been driven by fl at-panel televisions,” Johnson explained. volving a trademark license agreement. Spataro Coat Factory from selling a specifi c line of “Apparel has only seen a 5 percent year-over-year growth from alleged in the complaint that Concept One and women’s handbags that allegedly infringed on December 2005 to December 2006. Electronics have had a triple- Concept Two licensed the Maurizio Spataro its trademarks and trade dress. growth rate. While statistically you can’t deduce this tripling from trademark for use on ladies’ handbags, luggage — Liza Casabona loss apparel sales, I suspect there is an indirect substitution effect.” WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007 23 WWD.COM

REITs Deliver Robust Fourth-Qtr. Profi ts Sears Holdings Rolls Out By Amy S. Choi Korea, the company plans to break ground on the retail component of New Songdo City some- t was a banner fourth quarter for many U.S. time this year. Trendier Styles for Fall Imall owners, who reported both domestic and There is still no forward movement on the overseas growth. lawsuit-hampered Oyster Bay, N.Y., mall devel- SEARS HOLDINGS CORP.’S SEARS AND KMART NAME- International expansion and domestic re-de- opment, but the company had strong enough plates are aiming to become a primary destination for back- velopment have long been the growth engines of growth in the fourth quarter to raise its earn- to-school this fall. Simon Property Group, but they’re not the only ings guidance for 2007 to the range of 70 cents Sears typically targets the middle-aged Baby Boomer with tactics the company is banking on. Last week, to 88 cents per share. classic basics at moderate prices, but the Sears 2007 fall col- Simon bid on the Mills Corp., which would add Net income for Taubman in the quarter was lection shown at the Bryant Park Hotel during fashion week 47 million square feet of full-price, outlet and down 68.9 percent, to $17.2 million, or 32 cents included some trendier items for contemporary shoppers. entertainment space to its already massive re- per diluted share, from $55.4 million, or 93 cents, Always a key player for school uniforms, Sears is looking to tail reach. Mills is considering the offer, which due to a major sale in the fourth quarter of 2005, gain market share with the younger shopper. Wall Street lauded as the most logical option which accounted for a one-time gain of $52.8 The retailer is paying closer attention to details and de- for the company, despite its agreement to merge million. For the year, the company’s net earnings signs, and its exclusive Covington and Apostrophe brands in- with Brookfi eld Asset Management. were down 51.5 percent, to $21.4 million, or 40 clude warm and jewel-toned Ts, embroidered jeans, collared Still, the company is not relying entirely on cents, from $44.1 million, or 87 cents per share. blouses and business suits for that internship or fi rst job. A $60 acquisition — buoyed by a 7.5 percent jump in CBL & Associates made its fi rst step into Apostrophe jersey dress is one of the stylish items that can be funds from operations in the fourth quarter and Asia with an announcement last week that it worn to the offi ce or for a night out. strong sales throughout the portfolio, it is plow- would participate in a joint venture with Bain As one of the largest sellers of sporting goods and workout ing ahead with several international develop- Capital to invest in Jinsheng Group, a mall de- equipment, Sears is also expanding its sportswear apparel ments slated to open in the next two years. It veloper and operator in China. Though the collections. For the fall, the retailer is featuring loose track plans to open four centers in Italy, four centers $15 million investment is small compared with jackets and running pants that can be worn to the gym or for in China, and one center each in Japan and some of the larger Asian efforts, the deal offers lounging around the house. South Korea, in addition to six new develop- CBL a platform in Asia without much risk. “One Kmart is also looking to reel in the teen and contemporary ments in the U.S. of the great things about the deal is, it doesn’t customer who may usually chose Target or Wal-Mart for back- In the fourth quarter, Simon reported a require us to set up our own infrastructure out to-school. jump in net income of 76.9 percent on an $81 there,” said Stephen Lebovitz, president of CBL For the fall, Kmart is taking mainstream trends and infus- million one-time gain from the disposal of two & Associates, on a company conference call. ing them into the Route 66 and RDoll lines. The chain’s young shopping centers. The company earned $204.7 “Jinsheng is a fully functioning company with designers are pushing to combine comfort with style. million, or 92 cents per diluted share, up from integrated capabilities in leasing, management Most of the denim Kmart sells runs from $19.99 to $34.99, but, $115.7 million, or 52 cents, a year prior. For and development.” depending on the style and embroidery, some jeans are even less. the 12 months ended Dec. 31, net earnings in- The Tennessee-based REIT reported a 34 Kmart recently brought on a new handbag designer, and its creased 21 percent, to $486.1 million, or $2.19 percent jump in net earnings, to $34.4 million, collection of bags and purses is bright and youthful. Mini mes- per share, up from $401.9 million, or $1.82 per or 52 cents per diluted share, from $25.7 mil- senger bags and shoulder bags are large enough to store books share in 2005. lion, or 40 cents. For the year, the company’s and other school supplies. Taubman Centers is investing $327 million income dropped 31.6 percent, to $90.3 million, Flat ballet shoes with a suede toe in a variety of colors and in redevelopments domestically, and preparing or $1.38 per share, down from $131.9 million, or a T-shirt with a tiny skeleton design are two of the trendier for the October 2007 opening of its $155 million $2.03 per share a year prior. Net income in 2005 items aimed at a fashion-forward customer. Mall at Partridge Creek, in Michigan. In South included a one-time gain of nearly $40 million. — Jeanine Poggi 24 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007

Financial West Coast Factors Weigh 2

By Liza Casabona very well in the stock market in 2006….The market is bullish, and we’re seeing the growth in our portfolio. actors see brand identity and overseas investment as the critical topics du jour Ffor the apparel industry this year. WWD: What will change this year? In a recent roundtable discussion held in Los Angeles with factoring executives R.V.: There is a ton of private equity money out there these days. I think you could see based on the West Coast, factors discussed the role of brands, the impact of private the M&A marketplace really pick up in 2007. It’s happened in a lot of other industries equity and foreign investment dollars, a manufacturing model that is both domestic over the 2000s.I think you could see it in these industries in 2007. and global and the continued infl uence of the teen sector on apparel trends. M.C.: Talking to some of the suppliers in Asia who are working directly with the im- Participants included Mitch Cohen, executive vice president, Western regional porters on the West Coast, they are supporting the importers both fi nancially and op- manager of commercial services for CIT; Harry Friedman, senior vice president, erationally to fi gure out models where they can land fi nished product directly to the Rosenthal & Rosenthal; Kevin Sullivan, executive vice president and Western region retailer. That’s a potential risk to the industry because in the future they might end manager, Wells Fargo Century; Dave Reza, senior vice president, Western region, up competing with some of our own clients directly. Milberg Factors, and Ron Vanek, executive vice president, re- K.S.: The challenge there is going to be which of those compa- gional manager, GMAC Commercial Finance. nies can really develop the design and marketing capabilities that the companies in the U.S. have. WWD: What is the overall outlook for the apparel industry in M.C.: I think you’re going to see it more in the big box retail- 2007? ers, who require replenishment-type programs, where the sup- Mitch Cohen: We’re off to a pretty sound year. The suppliers The strategic buyers pliers need to keep their factories working at high capacity are going to continue to get squeezed for margin compression “ levels. by the retailers. The suppliers are generally getting smarter within the marketplace this K.S.: The other thing we see along those lines is suppliers on to survive, and they’re delivering a more effi cient model to the Pacifi c Rim willing to take equity positions, in some cases the retailer. year will continue to very signifi cant equity positions, in companies in this country. Harry Friedman: We’ll see somewhat of a similar situation to actively pursue brands. what we saw in 2006, with a slight increase in retail sales on WWD: How do you see the trend of direct foreign investment the apparel side. I don’t think it will beat expectations — this — Kevin Sullivan, Wells Fargo Century” shaping up this year? past year was a little below expectations. We see it as an ac- K.S.: I think you’ll see more of it. ceptable year. M.C.: That’s going to be a big change in 2007. There’s a lot of Kevin Sullivan: We see a continued emphasis on quality dollars over in Asia looking to get invested in the U.S. brands, and the clients of ours that have what are perceived H.F.: There is a growing opportunity in this regard. Overseas to be strong brands in the marketplace will do very well in 2007. Conversely, compa- suppliers will be setting up U.S. warehousing operations to control the goods com- nies that really don’t have a brand, that have to compete on a commoditized basis, are ing into this country and establishing factoring relationships to manage, collect, and still having a diffi cult time in the marketplace. Overall, our clients think it’s going to forward the proceeds of U.S. receivables back overseas. be very positive in 2007. M.C.: I think the factoring industry has a great opportunity working with Asia. You David Reza: We have a fair amount of brands in our portfolio, and they’re doing pretty can bring more value to them because of your relationships within the United States well. They’ve been under pressure, but not as much as those who sell on price alone. and understanding how to do business in the United States. If nothing else, you can We’ll continue to see some price erosion for those people. act as somewhat of an escrow account and operate and move money around the world Ron Vanek: I see it as a continuation of this year, also. The retailers, especially, did to protect and help them manage their risks. D.R.: Especially since, in a lot of cases, they’re selling to lesser- known retailers, regional chains, specialty chains or even manufac- turers getting open credit, where before they might have been estab- lishing a letter of credit to secure the purchase overseas. Now those exporters in Asia are taking on the risk our clients took on years ago here, so they need us more than ever from that standpoint.

WWD: What impact will the teen segment have on apparel this year? K.S.: What’s taking place relates to a great extent to technology. Kids at an earlier age are much more tech-savvy and have access to more information and can communicate more readily with their peers about what they like and don’t like. I think what that ends up leading to is very rapid shifts in taste. Something that maybe had a two-season run in the past might be viable for less than one season. It’s going to become a lot more diffi cult to predict the taste of the teen marketplace, given how much communication they have and how much access they have. M.C.: The teen market is more reliant on domestic manufacturing WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007 25 WWD.COM

Clockwise from left: Mitch Cohen, Kevin 007 Outlook Sullivan, David Reza, Harry today. Because of the quick turn, the trendy nature of the product, Friedman and we’re seeing a lot of local manufacturing back in business to help Ron Vanek. complement the imports. K.S.: It really is still a price-versus-delivery issue. To the extent that delivery times and the ability to change rapidly exceeds the impor- tance of price, you’ll see domestic production. M.C.: Denim’s a good example. While the fabric is being imported from all over the world, most of the washing and denim fi nishing is being done right here in Southern California. H.F.: Production, especially in this part of the market, always re- mains a work-in-progress. Moving production from country to coun- try and place to place to get the best bang for the buck is common. D.R.: If you’re going to be successful in the apparel industry, you have to have the ability to source locally or globally. Some of those challenges aren’t as great as they used to be, but knowing when to shift to take advantage of a trend is part of the planning.

WWD: What forces can we see impacting the specialty sector? H.F.: The consolidation in the industry, the ability to compete on price. If you dissected it further down and looked at what Wal-Mart’s impact has been, I think specialty stores have gotten the brunt more than the smaller department store chains and companies like that. K.S.: Where they’ve been successful is the higher end of the market- place, because there you’re dealing with a company with a customer that really places a premium on service. And a specialty retailer may be able to react a little more quickly to trends in the marketplace. I don’t know if I’d call it a revitalization in the specialty marketplace, but we’re certainly seeing an increase in the number of specialty stores that our clients are selling to. It’s mostly on the higher end where we’re seeing it, because that customer really warrants and necessitates a higher level of service. TYLER BOYE PHOTO BY R.V.: It tends to be a much more fun place to shop in, not only the product, it’s the whole environment of going in. It’s dealing with other young people. It’s a lot more fun to buy there than to go to Macy’s or wherever. D.R.: In the last fi ve years, with the emergence of a premium denim market that’s really centered here in Southern California, a lot of us have seen our clients who are in that market selling into specialty stores because of price points. We’re seeing more specialty store activity than we saw 10 years ago, when you saw so much retail con- solidation seem to impact the smaller stores and regional chains.

WWD: What other sectors besides teen will be noteworthy this year? M.C.: Accessories continue to be a big business. I see more and more utilizing accessories, for example handbags to bring in cus- tomers. K.S.: I would also point to the organic and sustainable marketplace. We’re starting to see companies begin to realize the importance of just focusing on a specifi c niche of the marketplace, as opposed to trying to be all things to all people. As opposed to what we saw years ago, some of them are becoming quite successful doing it. I think you’ll begin to see some of the major manufacturers begin showing lines that have those components to it as that becomes more accept- able to the consumer.

WWD: What other trends do you see? M.C.: Labels are where it’s at. If you read the licensing agreements, you’ll see minimums are high and royalty rates are high. If you want to get a strong label and if you want to attach yourself to that brand you’re paying a lot of money and giving up fl exibility. D.R.: Probably 75 percent to 80 percent more than you would’ve paid 10 years ago. K.S.: The strategic buyers within the marketplace this year will continue to very actively pursue brands and the fi nancial buyers — people that, in some cases, have no industry background in the apparel industry — are also very impressive. I think we’ll see that continue. There’s a lot of liquidity on the street. In some cases, the investors behind these funds are perfectly willing to get involved in the management of a company, which is something we’ve only seen in the last few years. That’s going to continue to be a very key trend within the marketplace.

WWD: What consumer trends do you see in 2007? M.C.: I think a trend that you might see in ’07 is brands that are dormant being used more and more because people are searching out for labels being revitalized. I’ve seen a couple of brands already this quarter. H.F.: We’re seeing an offshoot of that where a label, for whatev- er reason, didn’t do well or had a big downturn, was popular for awhile, then slid down that slippery slope. Now they are selling that brand or marketing it in a different way to rejuvenate it. R.V.: You’re not starting from scratch. You have some base to work off of. K.S.: We’re defi nitely seeing some brands that we would consider to be very mature actively trying to rejuvenate the brand. D.R.: There’s usually different people involved. K.S.: Different people and there’s usually initially a different im- pression of what that brand is really worth on the part of the people who own it, relative to what the marketplace might perceive it as. Valuations being what they are, there’s no telling what buyers might be willing to pay, given the current emphasis on brands. 26 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007 WWD.COM Financial

There’s a heightened level performing retailers. much-needed anchor to the corridor, in addition to of excitement around 34th “The Argent guys did a fair job, but not being re- Macy’s, the yet-to-be-redeveloped transportation hub Street in Manhattan. tail people, I don’t think they really understood who and the Manhattan Mall. Several major build- their customer was,” said Robert Futterman, president Joanne Podell, managing director at Cushman & ings have traded hands in and chief executive offi cer of Robert K. Futterman & Wakefi eld, said more retailers targeting high-end, aspi- recent months, including Associates. “But if anybody has experience maximizing rational shoppers were eyeing the street, and landlords the moderate Manhattan property value, it’s Vornado. I’m sure they’ll do some were eager to lure them in. Mall, which Vornado Realty research as to who’s performing the best and maybe Some new stores are already transforming the block Trust bought from Argent buy some people out of their leases.” and replacing mid-market general goods with fashion. Ventures for $689 million, and Two Herald Square, Vornado’s stake in the Farley Post Offi ce and Bebe Stores plans to open its fi fth store in Manhattan which an investment group led by the Sitt family Penn Station redevelopment, which is intended to at 1 West 34th Street, at the base of the Empire State recently snapped up from RFR Holdings for $500 create a transportation, retail and commercial des- Building on Fifth Avenue. The 4,000-square-foot bou- million. Both properties are primarily offi ce space; tination to rival Grand Central, is also cause for ex- tique will replace a Champs Sports in the property. the nearly 1 million-square-foot Manhattan Mall has citement, though little progress has been made on IBEX Construction is building the store, which is ex- 164,000 square feet of retail, and Two Herald Square the project since the real estate investment trust pected to open in April. has 90,000 square feet of retail at the base of the won the redevelopment bid with its partner, Related “Thirty-fourth Street used to be discount, and now property. Cos., in 2005. it’s got a combination of luxury, mid-market and dis- Though the retail tenants at Two Herald Square are Still, the prospects for the neighborhood are tanta- count,” said Jeffrey Newman, executive vice president unlikely to change — the building houses fl agships of lizing. Hundreds of thousands of retail could be added at Newmark Knight Frank Retail. “I’m seeing a lot of H&M and Victoria’s Secret — Vornado may dramati- to the market for a captive audience that is nearly 10 interest from the better retailers. All of the usual sus- cally make over Manhattan Mall, to the woe of under- times that of Grand Central’s. Many stores in Grand pects are perusing the street.” Central report sales of more than $1,000 Futterman said he wouldn’t be surprised if Coach, per square foot. Anthropologie, and Martin + Osa soon joined the A big department store between Eighth 34th Street mix. He declined to comment, however, and Ninth Avenues is another stirring on whether or not his client Apple sublet its space prospect for 34th Street, given the area’s on 34th Street because the block wasn’t quite “hip” strong demographics and easy access to enough. transportation. It would also add another — Amy S. Choi De Beers Admits Challenging Year

By Samantha Conti tor. He added that De Beers LV, the retail joint venture between the diamond company and Your Vision. Your Determination. LONDON — It’s been a year of ups and downs LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, posted for De Beers SA. triple-digit growth last year, with sales of more The diamond mining and trading company than $100 million. Our Personalized Service. said Friday net profi ts in the 2006 fi scal year Asked during the conference call if “Blood rose 32 percent to $730 million from $554 mil- Diamond,” which was released in December We combine our creative, entrepreneurial approach lion, due entirely to extraordinary gains. All fi g- in the U.S. and last month in Europe, was hav- with the resources and financial strength of one of ures were reported in dollars. ing any impact on the sale of diamond jewelry, the nation’s most respected financial institutions. Stripping out those gains — from the sale of a Penny said: “In the U.S., there was no discern- minority stake in De Beers Consolidated Mines to ible impact on sales over the Christmas period, Our innovative credit solutions include: Ponahalo Holdings (Proprietary) Ltd., and the sale and it’s still early days in Europe. Customers of a Canadian joint venture — earnings plummet- are certainly more conscious today of where • Accounts Receivable ed 50 percent to $425 million from $850 million. diamonds are coming from, and they are in- Management Services The company blamed the impact of higher creasingly looking for reassurance regarding U.S. interest rates on debt servicing, the dilu- diamond production. • Asset Based Lending tion in earnings after the sale to Ponahalo, and a “Actually, I think it’s a great opportunity for • Factoring drop in wholesale demand for rough diamonds. the industry to be transparent with customers • Letters of Credit “It’s been a diffi cult market throughout the and give them confi dence in what they are buy- • Trade Finance year,” said Nicky Oppenheimer, De Beers Group ing,” he said. chairman, during a conference call from South Last year, turnover at De Beers SA dropped Africa. “But we are investing in the future, and 4 percent to $7.63 billion from $7.96 billion, due For a quick response and competitive solutions, last year spent $950 million on four new mines.” chiefl y to a reduced supply of Russian diamonds please contact us. The new mines — in South Africa and Canada available to De Beers, and a drop in demand for — will contribute approximately $700 million to rough diamonds. De Beers’ annual production capacity. After a European Commission investigation Wells Fargo Century. Meanwhile, the company said demand for into the trading relationship between De Beers The Next Stage® in your business. diamond jewelry at retail was as strong as ever, and ALROSA, the Russian state diamond min- and that the fi lm “Blood Diamond” — for which ing company, De Beers agreed to decrease, and Leonardo DiCaprio has been nominated for an eventually cease, its diamond purchases from Academy Award for best actor — has had little that company. By the end of 2008, De Beers impact on sales so far. According to preliminary will have ceased its diamond purchases from anecdotal reports, De Beers said, global sales of ALROSA. diamond jewelry increased by 4 to 5 percent, with Although sales in 2006 fell, they were still China and India achieving double-digit growth. the second highest on record, after those in “We’re expecting sustained and rapid growth 2005. Penny said sales this year would be “con- from those two markets in the future,” said strained” due to the further reduction in dia- Gareth Penny, De Beers Group managing direc- mond supplies from Russia.

Is your current lender the wrong size for you? Sterling Factors has been servicing small and mid-size companies for over 75 years. Let us create a customized factoring arrangement that fits your needs for financing or for a non-borrowing relationship that provides credit protection and back office support. We are a full service factor that has built a solid reputation in the Apparel Industry. Call us to find out how we can help protect your assets or provide funding to help fuel your growth. For a relationship that fits, choose Sterling. New York Atlanta San Francisco Greensboro Stephen Giannetta Stuart M. Brister Tracey Hanson Tim Hutchinson 212-703-3637 770-392-3437 415-222-8103 336-545-0624 •• •• •• •• STERLING FACTORS CORPORATION Los Angeles IrvineIrvine Charlotte Miami A Subsidiary of STERLING NATIONAL BANK Kevin Sullivan Nick Susnjar Tim Blackburn Fernando A. Melo 213-443-6003 949-251-4918 704-345-0504 786-497-7254 John LaLota, President John Saraniti, VP & Director of Business Development • www.wfcentury.com• 212.575.4415 212.575.3458 [email protected] [email protected] ©2003 Wells Fargo Century, Inc. All rights reserved. www.SterlingFactors.com | Our Doors Are Open All The Way To The Top | EST. 1929 • NYSE: STL • Member FDIC WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007 27 WWD.COM Penney’s Plan: Service and Rebranding

Continued from page one unveiled Tuesday, when Penney’s reveals a new brand positioning. J.C. Penney is investing in new stores. “We’re rebranding the company because of our service,” he said. “We were running nice advertising, but it wasn’t building on itself. Our associates are engaged enough” to make them part of the brand. Ullman made the remarks during a speech to members of the Retail Strategy Council, an elite group of 15 to 20 senior executives that meets twice a year to shape the retail industry’s agenda through innovation and promoting best practices. The council is shrouded in secrecy. Other than the founding members — Oracle Retail, Harvard Business School, Loeb Associates and Bain & Co. — member companies and their representatives insist on remaining anonymous. Service was one of many topics Ullman discussed in a wide-ranging talk during a dinner at the St. Regis Hotel here last Thursday. Ticking off a list of achievements and goals attained during his two-year leadership of Penney’s, Ullman recalled a conversa- tion he had with the board of directors when he was being wooed for the top job. “The turnaround’s not enough to get me back into the fray,” said Ullman, who was retired at the time. He was referring to the improvements under his pre- decessor, Allen Questrom. What excited Ullman was reimagin- ing the company in a new way. “Why don’t we start with a clean Myron E. piece of paper and reinvent” ourselves, he told the board. Ullman 3rd “[Analysts] might say we’ve achieved our fi ve-year goal,” Ullman said last week. “The reaction of the team was not, ‘Great, let’s take the next three years off.’ Our 2007-11 plan to be announced at the [next] analyst meeting aspires to a differ- ent level. The team feels good about stretching themselves.” That stretching includes reaching for more affl uent cus- tomers with products such as Penney’s recently revealed Ullman revealed his strategy for winning over shoppers deal with Polo Ralph Lauren’s Global Brand Concepts di- and improving the company’s culture. He arrived at the Plano, vision for an exclusive lifestyle brand called American Tex.-based retailer with the idea of “engaging the customer in Lifestyle, to be launched in 2008, as well as its agreement an emotional way, not a logical way,” he said, adding that he last year to put Sephora shops into selected Penney’s units. wanted to make Penney’s “a great place to work and an easy Ullman said there’s more opportunity to capture market place to shop. That’s the antithesis of what a department store share from higher-priced competitors such as Macy’s, with is. Traditionally, there’s lots of employee turnover. There’s its average unit retail sale of $28, compared with Penney’s been a lot of talk about department stores being dead.” $16 and Target’s $10. Penney’s can provide “better styling and Because Ullman believes a company is only as good as its em- quality” by layering more expensive products into the mix. ployees, he sends them to Penney’s retail university, where for “Things that are infrequently purchased are aspirational.” one course students spend two days in a classroom with Ullman But the term “aspirational” is relative. “I’m not the type and the head of human resources. “We’re invested in the associ- of person who wants to pay 5 cents more for paper towels, ates and store managers,” he said. “We see a 200 basis-point but I’ll pay $600 for an Hermès cashmere sweater,” said [increase in] profi t when we engage the associates.” Ullman. “In Greenwich, Conn., Starbucks coffee is coffee. Associates today care about different things than they In South Central Los Angeles, it’s aspirational.” did a decade ago, including corporate responsibility, the The ceo indicated that Penney’s doesn’t want to be a high- environment and career opportunities. “They have expec- end store. Asked whether Penney’s engages in clienteling in tations of us,” Ullman said. “We need to engage them in a the same way that stores such as Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom do, he said, “We don’t noble cause. They need to have the tools and the wherewithal to make decisions. If do that. The challenge is to exceed customer expectations. We shouldn’t delude our- not, they’re clerks.” They also want to be paid fairly, so Ullman admonished the group selves [into thinking] that we can do that for our customers. Unlike the competition, we to “be competitive with compensation. Pay the median and no less for talent.” have staffi ng in hosiery, etc. It’s working for us. We’re hiring extra staff. The underlying He directed buyers to “take some risks. We want you to make some mistakes so you reason we exist is because we’re in the middle. The battle is in the middle.” can learn something. The wrong thing is to offer the same styles as last year. People While Penney’s can steal shoppers from the ailing Sears and Kmart, the retailer don’t want to buy last year’s styles.” has some challenges of its own. Penney’s core 30- to 45-year-old customer group is di- Ullman is aware consumers don’t want to shop in antiquated stores. “We have lots minishing, according to Ullman. In fact, he said, the entire retail landscape is shifting. of stores that haven’t had any investment for years,” he said. “We didn’t have any “Customers have no patience for things that don’t work. The ones that have no money money for 15 years. We’re going to renovate 70 stores a year and build 50 new stores a need solutions and price performance. What attracted customers to department year. We’re spending $1 billion a year.” stores used to be credit cards. Now they have lots of choices: online, discounters, fac- A council member asked if any of the new units will be green stores. “We’re look- tory outlets. To return J.C. Penney to the place it was 10 years ago is irrelevant.” ing at it centrally and saying, ‘How do we measure this?’ ” Ullman said. “Will the cus- So Ullman began throwing out the rule book. The retailer in October reached tomer pay for it? It’s hard to accomplish at today’s economics. The consumer expects an agreement with Liz Claiborne to launch Liz & Co. for women and Concepts by you to do the right thing. I’m not sure our customer cares that much at the moment, Claiborne for men. Penney’s now sells Nicole by Nicole Miller and Bisou Bisou. The but the associates do. They’re younger.” collections East 5th, Arizona Jean Co. and a.n.a contribute to the retailer’s $3 billion In the third quarter, Penney’s operating profi t increased 24.1 percent to $504 mil- private-label business, which Ullman would like to build to $5 billion. lion from $406 million last year and improved 140 basis points to 10.5 percent of sales. At the same time Penney’s is going after shoppers with higher incomes, the chain Total department store sales increased 7 percent and comp-store sales rose 5.2 per- is trying to meet the needs of those on tight budgets. “We’ll have other brands below cent. Same-store sales increased 3.6 percent for the four weeks ended Jan. 27 and Penney’s,” Ullman said. “We like to say our customer has two kids, too little time and total department store sales rose 5.5 percent for the four weeks. As of Feb, 3, Penney’s too little money.” operated 1,033 stores.

is no fi rm timetable for that feature’s launch. Search Adds Celeb Look-alike Apparel “I think that would be huge,” said David Polinchock, chief experience By Denise Power About 350 merchants are linked in, offi cer of Brand Experience Lab, a including newcomers lizclaiborne.com, New York think tank that studies how isual search engine Like.com will launch apparel Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth Avenue, emerging technologies shape consum- Vand accessories this week, pointing shoppers to al- Nordstrom, A|X Armani Exchange ers’ brand perceptions. most four million fashion items that closely resemble and eBay, among others. Riya collects Polinchock said Like.com scores those worn by celebrities. commission on search referrals. Rates points for resisting the desire to The Web site uses images — not just descriptive vary, Shah said, and 10 to 15 percent change human behavior, a mistake en- keywords — as the basis for a search. Love that frothy of a purchased item’s value or 40 to 50 trepreneurs often make. Some call it blouse Scarlett Johansson wore to a movie premiere? cents per click is average. the “hammer looking for a nail” syn- Click on that photo to see a selection of similar blouses The Like.com site is unique in that drome. Instead, Like.com applies tech- and shops that sell them. Like the embellishments on celebrity photos, provided by Getty nology to human nature that already the sleeve, but the color, not so much? Dial up or dial Images, drive search results. Jessica exists: we covet. down the importance of those details and the search Simpson is the most searched celeb- “I do this all the time,” he said. “I returns a more refi ned selection. rity on Like.com, followed by Mischa see someone walk down the street and “You can fully dress yourself now, on Like,” said Barton and Jennifer Lopez. I say, ‘I like those glasses.’ We all do Munjal Shah, chief executive offi cer of San Mateo, Converting visual content of an this.” With the ability to snap a shot on Calif.-based search engine Riya, which launched image to data that computers can pro- the street, shoppers can fi nd a similar Like.com three months ago. cess to deliver relevant search results item online without asking a stranger The site initially featured shoes, handbags, watches is far more complex than doing so with Visual search site Like.com where she bought it. and jewelry. This week, that mix doubles with the addi- text. Image recognition experts com- “It’s a democratization of fashion,” tion of shirts, sweaters, pants, jackets and vests for men pute a visual signature for each photo, adds apparel this week. Polinchock added. “One of the fasci- and women. New women’s categories include skirts, which contains some 10,000 data points, Shah said. nating things to me is that this didn’t come from retail. intimates, hosiery and maternitywear. Hats, gloves, Soon shoppers will be able to upload their own pho- You would have thought that some fashion-forward re- scarves, belts and sunglasses round out the mix. tos and use them as the basis for a visual search. There tailer would have thought of it.” 28 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007 Obituary Harry Rosen Amps Up Personal Service Charles R. Walgreen Jr., By Denise Power the more personal information. “Before you know it,” Rosen CHICAGO — Harry Rosen is going added, “Bob Jones is thinking Former Walgreens Chair one-on-one with 200,000 customers. about you not as somebody who Intent on amping up the served him last time, but some- harles R. Walgreen Jr., son of the founder of the 105- breadth, depth and quality of its body who has an intimate interest Cyear-old drugstore chain Walgreen Co., died in his sleep relationships with shoppers, the in doing a quality job for him: ‘I Saturday at his home in Northfield, Ill. He was 100 years old. upscale men’s wear retailer pairs am no longer a number.’ ” Born in Chicago on March 4, 1906, to drugstore entrepre- wireless technology and custom- The PDAs have cameras and ad- neur Charles R. Walgreen and his wife, Myrtle Norton, the er relationship management, or ditional features. Sales associates younger Walgreen began working for the family business at CRM, software to nurture bonds Larry Rosen, can check inventory at other stores age nine, making deliveries from his father’s second store that were far easier to build 53 ceo of to locate that must-have item for a located on Chicago’s South Side. years ago, when founder Harry Harry Rosen. shopper, send and receive e-mail After graduating from the University of Michigan School Rosen knew almost everyone who and make phone calls to alert a of Pharmacy in 1928, he held various positions within the stopped by his 500-square-foot Hugo Boss or Ermenegildo Zegna company before becoming vice president in 1933, executive shop in Toronto’s Cabbagetown loyalist to an upcoming trunk assistant to his father in 1935 and president shortly before neighborhood. whole business is based on one-to- show. Because all activity goes the senior Walgreen’s death in 1939. Today, with 16 Canada stores, one relationships,” he said in an through the CRM system, Harry Walgreen served as the company’s president from 1939 to 1963 700 employees and $200 million interview. Before implementing Rosen can monitor the frequency and as chairman from 1963 to 1976. During his tenure, Walgreen in sales, developing personal re- the solution last year, “We were with which associates are con- Co.’s annual sales grew from $72 million to $817 million. lationships with hundreds of thou- missing [opportunities] by not tacting clients so they are neither Today, Walgreens operates more than 5,460 stores that in sands of customers is a tall order. making information available to neglected or pestered. Sales man- 2006 generated $47.4 billion in sales. However, it’s doable with the right associates when they needed it.” agers can track their store perfor- After his retirement, he spent much of his time sailing tools, said Larry Rosen, chairman Now, armed with a wireless, mance on the PDAs by viewing ac- around the globe on his yacht, but kept an offi ce at the fi rm’s and chief executive offi cer. “Can I personal digital assistant, or PDA, tual, targeted and previous year’s Deerfi eld, Ill., headquarters. personally develop them? No. As computers from Hewlett-Packard, sales reports. His personal mission, according to the company, was to ceo of the company? No,” he said. sales associates can access the Harry Rosen’s next step is only raise the professional stature and working conditions of “But our people can. Web-based Sage Software CRM sys- in the discussion stages: how to au- pharmacists. To that end, he gradually reduced pharmacists’ “The secret of using technol- tem and the PCMS point-of-sale da- tomatically recognize that a valued hours at his stores from the industry average of about 66 ogy and CRM is, you have a system tabase to view information about a customer has entered the store. hours a week in 1939 to 40 hours. In the Fifties, the executive that can store information on ev- particular shopper such as size, de- With this capability, a sales asso- put his stamp on the drugstore retail business by converting erybody — what they purchased, signer preferences, past purchases ciate away on lunch break could Walgreens stores from a clerk-assisted shopping environment personal facts — all in compliance and personal details about family, be alerted to return because his to self-service, which is now the norm in chain drugstores. A with various privacy legislation, career or his last golf junket. top client just arrived. One idea decade later, he helped carve out the supercenter retail phe- secure,” he said. “It allows you to Having this information at their involves Bluetooth technology, the nomenon by opening large-format stores. extend those very strong, natural fi ngertips, rather than abandoning short-range wireless communica- Walgreen was an active member of the industry, serv- relationships that you may have a shopper to look it up on a back- tions protocol on many shoppers’ ing as president of both the National Association of Chain had with your top 10 or 15 custom- room computer or black book, en- cell phones and PDAs. Shoppers Drug Stores (1945) and the American Foundation for ers to a much larger group.” hances the shopping experience who choose to opt in to such a pro- Pharmaceutical Education (1970), as well as honorary presi- Harry Rosen’s chief informa- and builds trust, said Rosen. While gram could provide Harry Rosen dent of the American Pharmaceutical Association (2001). tion offi cer, Stephen Jackson, out- all sales associates can access their unique Bluetooth identifi ca- He is survived by his wife, Jean Walgreen; three children, lined the program last week at basic information on any shopper, tion number, be recognized upon Charles R. Walgreen III, James Alan Walgreen and Leslie Ann the National Retail Federation’s only the primary employee as- arrival and be assured of the pre- Pratt, along with 23 grandchildren and 33 great-grandchildren. advertising conference here. “Our signed to each customer can view mium service they expect. — Molly Prior

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Hampshire Group, Limited, a leader in men’s & women’s sweaters is seeking a: ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Hampshire Group, Limited a leader in men’s & women’s sweaters is seeking MERCHANDISER Est’d NY importer of costume jewelry highly motivated individuals to join our growing team. The ideal candidates Nine West Footwear Corporation – a division of Jones Apparel Group, To partner with sales, design, and /access seeks exp’d jewelry/self-starter must be Team Players, creative, detail oriented, organized & thrive in an upbeat w/proven following to sell volume a leader in the Footwear and Apparel industry, is seeking the following production to execute merchandising retailers, catalogs, premium accounts. & fast paced environment. The following positions are currently available: Base + comm + benefits. Email: positions in the Corporate Headquarters in White Plains, NY: strategies. Must have a strong under- [email protected] / F: 212-594-4466 —Technical Designer — standing of fashion trends & 5 years Individual must possess a minimum of 5 + years of design and fit experience, COSTING MANAGER – NYC ( Job # 2247) exp. Communication, analytical, and excellent sketching ability, and strong computer skills including Web PDM. organizational skills a must. Strong DIRECTOR OF MERCHANDISING – APPAREL (Job # 2332) Technical knowledge of yarns. Knit and garment construction is required. ability to manage multiple tasks & deadlines. Design Assistant VISUAL MANAGER – FOOTWEAR ( Job # 2446) — — We offer an excellent compensation Assist the design staff in all aspects of product design and development, To apply, please visit our website at www.jny.com and benefits package including a including concepts, sourcing, CADS, colors, specs and yarn for the men’s 401(k) plan. For immediate consid- 2500 Beaded Antique sweaters division. M/F/D/V An EOE Employer Embroidery swatches early 1900’s to eration please fax resumes incl. salary 1960’s original designs. Neuvo & Deco history & req’s to: 212-512-0397. plus rare 60’s for sale. Mary (212) 719.0881 — Design Assistant — Assist design staff in all aspects of product design and development, Graphic Artist Newborn / Infant-Toddler and 4–8 Girl including concepts, sourcing, CADS, colors, specs and yarn for the 2 opening’s in Large childrenswear co PRODUCTION ASSISTANT women’s sweaters division. to create screen prints, all over print, Eric Javits Inc located in Long Island embroidery & appliqué. Strong draw- City seeks person w/ min 3-5 yrs exp to All positions require a minimum of 2 years industry experience working ing and conceptual skills. Illus & support all phases of overseas production. Photoshop req’d. Able to take direction. Product development and sourcing in with Web PDM. Illustrator and Photoshop experience also required. Min 2-4 yrs exp. Email or fax resume: accessories a must. Key resp include [email protected] developing specs, measuring/evaluating We offer an excellent compensation and benefits package including a 212- 967- 8631 SK samples, recording all styling changes and communicating them to factories. 401(k) plan. For immediate consideration please fax resumes including Computer proficiency (excel,word,outlook), salary history and requirements to: 212-512-0397. When applying, Graphic Artist to $75K. Current exp in strong organizational and follow up young mens & jrs. req’d. Label pro- skills a must. please indicate for which position you are interested in. grams, trims, embroidery, placement Email resume w/salary req to: prints, brand ident, etc. Phtshp, Illus. Full [email protected] D E S I G N E R time perm exp nec. [email protected] NYC accessory co. seeks a creative & self-directed designer w/ min of 2 yrs PRODUCTION ASST. exp in ladies soft accessories to include GRAPHIC DESIGNER $55K Leading children’s apparel company rtw cut/sewn novelties, day/evening Mens Shirts, Quark, Indesign seeks a highly motivated and detail- wraps & seasonal trend items. Applicant CAD DESIGNER $55K oriented individual to oversee all must be organized & detail oriented, Woven Tops, Quark, Indesign aspects of production to ensure Search For Space In Garment Center able to follow-up on all phases of sample [email protected] 212-947-3400 on-time delivery thru daily communi- Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee development, lab dips, specs/ sizing, cation between design/sales and www.midcomre.com pricing, & production detail. Individual overseas vendors. Responsibilities Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 is required to forecast trends, possess include: follow-up with overseas facto- a high taste level, great color sense & Inventory Planner ries, delivery tracking & spreadsheets. ability to cad color ways & be proficient Strong communication skills req’d. Showrooms & Lofts in Photoshop & Excel. Salary dependent iZone Must have good working knowledge of BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS on exp & qualifications. www.izonestore.com Microsoft Outlook, Word & Excel. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Please email resumes to : National retailer of eyewear & fashion E-mail resume with salary ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 John Hardy [email protected] accessories known for its teamwork requirements Attn Charles to: ……work and live in Paradise….BALI, Indonesia posting and entrepreneurial spirit, located [email protected] in Rockleigh, NJ. The job calls for Head of Merchandising DESIGNERS WANTED knowledge of statistical forecasting, Production Coord/Product Devel $70-75K. Lg Accessory co Seeks Designer quantitative analysis and excellent Current exp in better womens or mens John Hardy seeks a leader of merchandising for US, European and Asian With Licensing exp. $$$$ communication skills. Candidate should denim sprtswr req’d. Domestic + import. markets. Collaborate with design and sales to ensure timely development Shoe Importer Seeks Designer have a college degree in operations or Strong knowl. of construction of denim Out of Shoe /Handbag Market $$$$ related field and min 5 yrs exp. Email fabric. Washes, scheduling, etc. and pricing of seasonal jewelry collections. [email protected] resume with salary requirements to: [email protected] [email protected] and reference Qualified candidate must have bachelor’s degree in fashion merchandising Inv. Planner when responding. Production Mgr to $75-95K BOE. or related study with 8-10 years of jewelry experience in luxury retail or DESIGNER Current exp in sourcing in Far East. Very hip, better young contemporary wholesale market. Strong leadership and managerial skills essential. MERCHANDISE COORD ...... 45-52K Chinese Eng Bilingual. Strong exp in 3 year company looking to add an experi- denim washes, dyeing, construction Candidate must make a commitment. enced knit and woven, fashion forward Cutting Tickets PC goods assortments Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 etc. Travel to China two times a year. designer to our fun company. Must [email protected] E-mail your resume to: [email protected] have at least 3 years of experience and [email protected] have overseas contacts for production. www.srisearch.com The brand is well established but Production Patternmaker Accounting Associate CAD Designer growing quickly. Please reply to: Established updated, fast paced, missy Fast paced Broadway showroom seeks [email protected] MERCHANDISER/ to $160K contemporary co w/ large private label Int’l textile co seeks highly motivated YOUNG MEN’S indiv who is organized, computer a CAD Designer w/3+ years experience in div seeks experienced Prod Pattern- CAD/Photoshop/Illustrator. Duties include Great oppt’y at major NYC apparel co. maker. Must be able to work from literate with excellent comm skills. Designer for merchandiser who has an under- Accounting exp in garment & textile sketching, recoloring prints, catalog pages, Tech Pak, give sewing instructions & and assisting in all phases of design. WANTED: standing of the Latino mkt in US for have knowledge of factory procedures. industry pref’d. Company paid bene- young men. Req: must have merchan- fits. Fax resume to: 212-209-4406 E-mail: [email protected] Great atmosphere w/ excellent benefits. INNOVATIVE DESIGNER dised sportswear for specialty stores to Fax your resume to: 212-221-1353 CUSTOMER & SALES Fast growing Intimate & Sleepwear Co. is Wal-Mart, time & action calendars, sku looking for a Creative & Fun Designer. plans, licensing coord., facilitate sam- ACCTS PAYABLE SERVICE pling, trends, direct designers, travel. Product Mgr- for sporting goods co. Must have 3-5 years experience with Must have 3D experience + tech. ability Midtown apparel co. seeks experienced , Immediate opening with prestigious intimates - bras, panties, etc. Must Email resume: [email protected] motivated individual for full time Cosmetic Distributor on the Northern Fax 917-591-2521 Ph: 914-337-3660 Intimates- 2 bra/foundations BEADED BRIDAL work well with others. co’s need designer & tech. designer position. Computer literacy and the Bergen / Rockland County border. Re- Email resume: [email protected] Custom made beaded bridal gowns. sponsibilities include executing sales CREATIVE CONNECTIONS AGENCY In house design/cut/sew & beaded. ability to multitask are required. Duties are diverse and detailed in & marketing programs, sales support PH: 212-563-5930 Fax: 212-563-6086 MOB etc. Couture Level Only. and order processing and research. DESIGN VP ...... 95-120K Email: [email protected] Call Geri (212) 840-7070 nature leading to involvement with OFFICE COORDINATOR both vendors as well as management. Must be hard working, motivated team L.A. Loc /Licensed casual sprtswr Major apparel company seeks Office Please send resume to: player who is well organized and com- Minard Frisher SRI Search 800-950-8382 Coordinator for busy work environment. *Product or Production* [email protected] puter literate. Retail and sales experi- [email protected] Responsibilities include ordering sup- Assistants-Coordinators-Managers ence a plus, knowledge of Microsoft www.srisearch.com plies for office and design department, Many Jobs-Excellent Salaries Word and Excel a must. Please fax equipment maintenance including Call (212)643-8090 Fax (212)643-8127 AGCY your resume to (201) 767- 4371 or email design printer operation, supporting the ADMIN/PROD ASST to [email protected]. DSNGR BOYS 4 - 20 OPEN $ Gen mdse div of accessory co seeks Established company seeks creative Purchasing Director & booking business hard working, reliable assistant to Designer $80-100K Current exp in Jr. individual for lifestyle urban product. travel for all company employees. Must Quality Control work in fast paced environment. denim collection. Preppy, non urban have Mac knowledge, Illustrator a plus. Assistant QC Good computer skills Email, Word & fashion vision. Will also do some A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. Ideal candidate will have fashion and Assist Mgr with QC for hard & soft Excel a must. Salary dep upon exp. young mens. [email protected] 450 7th AVE (AGCY) 212.268.6123 administrative background. Must be goods at home decor mfr. $35-40K PATTERN/SAMPLES Fax resume 212-302-2753 resourceful, customer service oriented, Call Laurie 212-947-3399 or Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast DESIGNER ASSISTANT and be able to communicate effectively e-mail: [email protected] work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 For Intimate Apparel Company. Must Fabric Specialist/Tech with different personalities. KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Must have exp with bedding. Assistant Planner be a fast learner, detail-oriented & FAX RESUMES TO: 212-208-4656 organized along w/a great work ethic. Research new textile trends and have knowledge of testing Retail Analyst $55-75K. Strong exp in Excellent Opportunity Construction knowledge & ability to forecasting data, review SKU’s, main- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, create flat sketches in Illustrator req’d. procedures. Sal Open BOE. The Echo Design Group, is seeking an Call Laurie 212-947-3399 or Patternmaker $80-100K BOE. Current tain weekly POS, replenishment time- Associates in fashion also req’d. Linge- tables, etc. Mdtwn. [email protected] PRODUCTIONS individual to assist in the organization rie /sleepwear exp a plus. e-mail: [email protected] exp in bridge to designer denim bottoms All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. and communication of the sales dept . Email / fax: [email protected]; KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS + denim sportswr req’d. NYC top name Call Sherry 212-719-0622. through compiling, analyzing and (212) 842-4050, Attn: V. Muskopf. EOE. . [email protected] distributing sales information, with Retail Inventory emphasis on department store sales & Designer Factory Mgr $60-80K. Exp in mens or planning. Work with Director of Sales GRAPHIC DESIGNER womens woven shirts. Supervise 250 Controller PATTERNS, SAMPLES, on fiscal planning, budgets, & special sewers. Tech knowledge of construction PATTERNMAKER Ladies Intimate Apparel Co. seeks of better shirts. Will relo to North East. iZone projects. Must have 2-3 years planning creative, detail-oriented individual. PRODUCTIONS experience in retail or wholesale. 973-564-9236 or [email protected] YOUNIQUE CLOTHING www.izonestore.com Full service shop to the trade. Must be proficient in Illustrator 10, Please email or fax resumes to: Fast paced Junior Sportswear co. is National retailer of eyewear & fashion Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Photoshop 7 & Streamline. Great work accessories known for its teamwork Email: [email protected] attitude & ability to work in a fast seeking a seasoned patternmaker/ Fax: 212-686-5017 EOE technical designer with a minimum and entrepreneurial spirit, located in paced environment are key. Contem- Fashion Market Editor Rockleigh, NJ. The job calls for profi- porary Missy/Junior Intimate Apparel of 5 years experience. Must have Patterns/Samples/Production Leading Women’s Fashion Accessories knowledge of excel and familiar with ciency in retail inventory management Bookkeeper/Office Mgr bkgrd; able to meet deadlines and Trade Magazine is seeking a Fashion software and a strong service orienta- team player a plus. Excellent benefits / cut and sew knits. Snaps/Covered Button F/C thru G/L. Min 5 years experience Market Editor to select merchandise for Please email resumes to: tion. Minimum of 3 years experience. Any Style - Full Service in Garment Industry. Knowledge of salary to compensate exp. editorial & fashion stories. Will assist Email resume w/salary requirements Call 212-278-0608 / 646-441-0950 Email / fax: [email protected]; [email protected] or fax to: factoring, chargebacks, EDI, ADP, Excel. w/coordination of monthly photography. 212-764-0352 to [email protected] and refer- Beading Service By Professional Salary commensurate with experience. (212) 842-4050, Attn: V. Muskopf. EOE. Knowledge of the accessories industry ence Inv. Controller when responding. Contract: Penney 917-576-3138 Fax resume Attn: Burton 212-714-0460 a must. E-mail to: [email protected] BUYER ...... 100-130K DESIGNER Retail Planner $80-100K Current exp China Factories Home Textiles NJ Loc Leading Dress Co. seeks a Designer or a Grader Marker $55-75K BOE. Current PRIVATE LABEL COORDINATOR in analysis, replenishment, forecasting PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Allen Platt SRI Search 212-465-8300 credentialed Assistant to design dresses exp on Gerber required. Version 8 pre- Must have 2 yrs exp in Private Label at apparel co. req’d. Retail-Link exp High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- [email protected] and separates for expanding business. ferred not nec. Growing Co. Call 973- AS400 & Excel helpful not nec. Aggressively growing sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 www.srisearch.com Fax resume to: 212-268-6838 564-9236 or Email [email protected] [email protected] kidswear co. [email protected] WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2007 31 WWD.COM

second launch party two years ago — Burkle,” said Roshan. — Irin Carmon which, by its own account, included nearly 1,000 guests after Gawker ALL CHANGE: Given the management MEMO PAD posted the details and encouraged turmoil at Gap, it perhaps isn’t Mango Adds Bags crashers — will be disappointed to surprising the San Francisco-based TO THE RESCUE: While The New York learn that any New York launch will retail chain is switching gears for By Katya Foreman Times Media Group recently reported be decidedly low-key. Instead, editor spring and touting one of its staples, a 3.5 percent decline in advertising in chief Maer Roshan will host an event khakis. The “khakis with attitude” PARIS — Mango has caught the luxury bag revenue during the fourth quarter of last in Los Angeles for the Independent campaign can be seen in the March bug. year versus the same period in 2005, Spirit Awards on Feb. 21, a nod to issues of Vogue, Vanity Fair, Elle, The Spanish fast-fashion retailer unveiled its glossy T: Women’s Fashion magazine major advertiser IFC — as well as an Allure, Glamour, Lucky and GQ, with its fi rst icon bag, dubbed Pantone after its is well up. The Times is celebrating its apparent way to take the magazine’s a mix of famous faces, including range of 12 hues, at the Palais de Tokyo here largest women’s fashion issue since launch a little further out of the Kyra Sedgwick, Dermot Mulroney, Thursday. “We decided we needed a Mango 1984 with a 16 percent increase in ad New York media maelstrom, which singer Chris Brown and Chris O’Donnell. bag,” said Cristina Esquerdo Farrus, accesso- pages from March 2006. The magazine has seen fi t to mock Radar’s three Models include “It” girl , ries manager for the brand, which produces credits the spike, to 169.8 ad pages, to incarnations on any occasion possible. and Liya Kebede. Trey around 400 accessory references. the growth of international fashion ads Roshan won’t be leaving New York Laird, creative director for Gap and “The move came following research that (61.8 pages). A spokeswoman added behind altogether, though: Socialites executive creative director at Laird + showed customers were ready to spend more that pages were also up in jewelry, Tinsley Mortimer and Fabiola Beracasa Partners, said he chose models and money for quality,” she said, citing as an exam- timepieces, accessories and retail will cohost the Los Angeles bash. actors that are “individuals with their ple Mango’s recent cashmere collection, which department stores. To date, the Times “They’re very independent socialites,” own personality.” Of Sedgwick, Laird sold out in days. has invested in the distribution and Roshan joked. He said a smaller said he’s been wanting to shoot her Vivid color and volume are featured as key visibility of T in Paris and Milan during New York party will probably follow for several seasons because she looks design elements for the suede logo-embossed the fashion shows and at various hotels the next week, though no date has natural and “never overdone.” The tote, which comes in three sizes and retails at and boutiques. New advertisers include been set. “You can have big parties campaign was shot at Pier 59 in New around $200. It will hit stores internationally Fratelli Rossetti, Ippolita, LeSportsac, and people will always pay attention York by Mikael Jansson, who has worked next month. Accessories represent around 12 Mulberry, Paul Morelli, Alberto Makali to the party and not the product,” for Gap in the past. Laird said he has a percent of revenue for the brand, according and Ritz-Carlton. The issue comes out said Roshan, adding, “A big, high- group of four or fi ve photographers that to a Mango spokeswoman, who said the fi rm is on Feb. 25 and will feature Robin Wright powered party like that — we’ll wait he likes to use, including Jansson. Gap scouting a European location for its second ac- Penn on its cover. —Amy Wicks until we have a few years under our and Laird declined to comment on the cessories-only boutique, dubbed Mango Touch. belt.” Would Angeleno and rumored ad budget. The khaki ads follow Gap’s The brand’s fi rst Mango Touch store, which PARTY POOH-POOHER: Anyone looking Radar backer Ron Burkle be stopping holiday campaign that touted black stocks bags, shoes, jewelry and glasses, opened for a repeat performance of Radar’s by? “I suppose you’d have to ask Ron pants à la Audrey Hepburn. — A.W. in Madrid in 2005.

Sales Assistant Fast paced Apparel Company has opening for Sales Assistant/Analyst with min 5 years exp. Responsibilities include order placements, sales analy- sis and follow up, communication and interfacing with retailers, and directly working with production and design. Computer literacy and familiarity with SALES AGENTS Word, Excel, and Access a MUST. A Toronto based global garment man- Should be inspired, motivated and SELLING SUPERVISOR ufacturing company is looking for detail-oriented, some domestic travel. experienced and self motivated sales E-mail [email protected] Maxstudio.com a global corporation bringing leading edge agents with excellent connection with Fax: 212-842-4050 Attn: HR EOE U.S. customers. We have our own design to today’s woman is seeking a Selling Supervisor for their factories in Toronto, Hong Kong and Sample Dressmaker Bloomingdale’s 59th Street in-store shop. The Selling Supervisor China. Our products include contempo, Formal dress manufacturer located is responsible for building clientele and facilitating sales growth. yoga, fur garments, sportswear, high in Nassau County seeks sample dress Bonpoint, the international retailer of luxury childrenswear, fashion knitted apparel and woven maker. Please fax resume (516) 686-8258 Max Studio offers both a competitive salary and benefits package. uniform apparel etc. The candidate must seeks for its two Madison Avenue boutiques : be well organized and possess strong SOURCING MANAGER/to $200k Please forward your resumes to: sales skills. Attractive commission. For mjr NYC based apparel co. Young Fax: (212) 219-9465 or E-mail: [email protected] Please forward your resume to men’s division for Streetwear & Urban STORE MANAGERS E-mail: [email protected] lines (tops, bottoms, fleece, Fr. terry or Fax: 416-293-2262 etc). Req: Must have network of facto- ries in place (varied price pts. w/Wal- SALES AGENT Candidates must have minimum 2 years High-End mart expr.) in Asia, w/special relation - SOCKS H.K/Shanghai based OEM apparel ships to handle preprod. samples etc. operation is expanding! Seek skillful Retail Management/Sales Experience , excellent E-mail resume: [email protected] Account Exec & C% sales & agent from US & Canada. Fax 917-591-2521 Ph: 914-337-3660 Net 30 possible for factor-approved interpersonal skills and superior customer service. Sales Rep accounts. Contact Archi at: [email protected] Luxury goods experience a plus. Spec Tech Assistant/ Fast growing Sport Sock Co is Quality Assurance seeking both a Sales Rep and an We offer competitive salary and full benefits package. Established apparel co. is seeking an Account Exec. Must be exp’d,moti- entry level individual with related SALES ASSISTANT background to assist in review or pre- vated and have est’d relationships Fast paced NYC women’s apparel PLEASE FAX OR E-MAIL YOUR RESUME TO: production & production samples, write company seeks a sales assistant to comments to overseas factories and with chains, mid tier stores in support sales executive. Responsibilities 212-246-3293 or [email protected] perform miscellaneous data entry. Must branded, unbranded & private label. include writing orders, filing, sample have strong organizational and computer requests, sending out packages and experience: Excel, Outlook, AS400 a plus. Email: [email protected] creating spreadsheets. Indiv must be www.bonpoint.com detail oriented, able to multi task and Please fax resume with salary require- Fax: 781-237-3199 ments to: STA (212) 213-4925 be proficient in Excel and Word. 2 years experience a must. Email resumes to: SWIMWEAR DESIGNER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE [email protected] Large apparel co seeks exp’d designer Fast paced Spec Occassion Dress Mfgr Fax to 212-768-3588 for private label swimwear line. Must be seeks a high energy and motivated suppliers able to work in a fast paced environment individual to fill an immediate opening. & have a great eye for color trends & fab- Opportunity to work in showroom with ric design. Requires Illus & Photoshop walk in traffic as well as assigned real estate exp & offers competitive salary & excel - accounts. Computer Skills preferred. SALES ASSISTANT lent benefits. Please e-mail resume to: Send resume and salary history in Major apparel company seeks assistant [email protected] confidence to [email protected] to perform diversified duties in follow-up sales and buyer communications. Must vendors recruitment Tech Designer $45-65K. 1 yr min exp in be computer proficient. Good written bridge to designer co. nec. Co. is top & verbal communications skills required. designer name brand. Wovens + c/s Please fax resume to: 212-730-9705 knits. Career oppty. Chin-Eng bilingual business services helpful not nec. [email protected] Tech Designer to $100-125K BOE. Current exp on Web PDM w/ tech pkgs opportunities of bras and panties. Midtown co. 973-564-9236 or [email protected] SALES MANAGER Cinzia Designs, specializing in sophis- TECHNICAL DESIGN ticated eyewear accessories, seeks an Private label and branded knitwear co Defi ning style. experienced Sales Manager. Experi- connections seeks highly motivated Associate Tech ence with accessories and/or reading Designer with 2 years experience. Delivering results. glasses a plus. Established relation- Advertise in WWD, DNR and FN at a special rate and reach a Duties incl. specs, lab dips, fittings. ships w/ majors preferred. Will manage Excel, Photoshop a must. Good bene- a small team of reps as well as handle unique audience of professionals across the women’s, men’s and fits and 401K. Pls e-mail your resume: your own domestic and international footwear industries. [email protected] accounts. This is an exciting opportu- Call 800-423-3314 or e-mail nity with major potential for growth. TRAFFIC/LOGISTICS ...... 45-60K NJ Loc Read,Write, Speak Mandarin fpclassifi [email protected] Visit us at Magic Booth 41627 Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 to advertise. (please bring your resume) [email protected] Ph. 480-951-2149 Fax 480-951-2394 Call 800-423-3314 or e-mail fpclassifi [email protected] to advertise. www.srisearch.com [email protected] Issue Date: March 26 Close Date: February 19

For more information on advertising, contact Jay Spaleta, publisher, ™ at 212-630-4831, or your WWD sales representative. WWDStyle Starts Here