Should Magazines Sell Stuff? Church and State Issues Aside
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Fashion. Beauty. Business. TOMMY FASHION TOUGH TUNE IN CHINA NIGHT The shuttering of JUN 2015 Tommy Hilfiger took All the winners, the Band of Outsiders No.1 his show on the road red carpet and the exemplifies the and opened his first after-party action at challenges young flagship in Beijing. the CFDA Awards. designers face. Markets p. 26 Eye p. 35 Markets p. 24 HARD SELL Should magazines sell stuff? Church and State issues aside, “Times are tough for independent labels.” independent labels.” for tough “Times are it hasn’t worked yet. Will it ever? KRIS VAN ASSCHE KRIS VAN Hard Sell US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 Edward Nardoza EDITOR IN CHIEF Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley The EXECUTIVE EDITOR James Fallon EDITOR Robb Rice Features GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR John B. Fairchild 1927 — 2015 MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera Hard Sell MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS 46 As newsstand and EUROPEAN EDITOR Miles Socha DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark advertising revenues plunge, NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zaczkiewicz magazine companies are DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR Donna Heiderstadt SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia desperately seeking new SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman TEXTILES & TRADE revenue streams. Does the SENIOR EDITORS, FINANCIAL Arnold J. Karr, Vicki M. Young ASSOCIATE EDITOR Lorna Koski answer reside in magazine BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani e-commerce? BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Bobbi Queen The Lone Ranger ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson 50 The rugged panache SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET Julie Naughton BEAUTY EDITOR of the cowboy comes to life SENIOR FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale SENIOR ACCESSORIES EDITOR Roxanne Robinson through distressed details, SENIOR MARKET EDITOR Mayte Allende EYE EDITORS Taylor Harris, Erik Maza worn-in bandanas and MEN’S SENIOR EDITOR Jean Palmieri touches of suede. FASHION DIRECTOR Alex Badia ASSOCIATE FASHION EDITOR Luis Campuzano MEN’S REPORTER Aria Hughes MARKET EDITORS ACCESSORIES Lauren McCarthy, Misty White Sidell BEAUTY Molly Prior, Jayme Cyk DIGITAL Rachel Strugatz READY-TO-WEAR, Bobbi Queen FURS & INNERWEAR FASHION READY-TO-WEAR & SPORTSWEAR NEWS Rosemary Feitelberg MEDIA Alexandra Steigrad READY-TO-WEAR AND Kristi Garced SPORTSWEAR FASHION EYE Ally Betker, Leigh Nordstrom CORRESPONDENTS LONDON Nina Jones LONDON, EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lorelei Marfil LOS ANGELES Khanh T.L. Tran LOS ANGELES Kari Hamanaka MILAN, FASHION AND NEWS Alessandra Turra MILAN Cynthia Martens NEW YORK, EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Anna Dysinger, William Cotto, Tara Bonet-Black, Kelsi Zimmerman NEW YORK, FASHION ASSISTANTS Andrew Shang, Ashley Davis, Kayana Cordwell, Milton Dixon, Emily Mercer PARIS, EUROPEAN BEAUTY EDITOR Jennifer Weil PARIS, SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Laurent Folcher PARIS, SENIOR BUSINESS NEWS EDITOR Joelle Diderich PARIS, GENERAL ASSIGNMENT Paulina Szmydke REPORTER, NEWS PARIS, EDITORIAL AND WEB ASSISTANT Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant WEB EDITOR, EUROPE Laure Guilbault DESIGN DEPARTMENT CREATIVE DIRECTOR Nick Mrozowski ART DIRECTOR Geraldson Chua SENIOR DESIGNER Christa Guerra DESIGNER Robyn Boehler ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Jewelyn Butron PHOTOGRAPHY ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR Jenna Greene BOOKINGS AND PRODUCTION EDITOR Tricia VanGessel ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Katrina Brown All Saints’ shearling coat, PHOTO ASSISTANT Morrigan Richardson Nudie Jeans’ cotton shirt PHOTO STUDIO and Frame Denim’s cotton PHOTO STUDIO MANAGER Eileen Tsuji jeans. George Frost x PHOTO STUDIO ASSISTANT Emily Taylor PHOTOGRAPHERS George Chinsee, Steve Eichner, Michael Bastian wallet Thomas Iannaccone chain; Dan Post boots. COPY DESK COPY CHIEF Maureen Morrison-Shulas COPY EDITORS Danielle Gilliard, Maxine Wally CONSULTING COPY EDITOR Anne Rohaiem PREPRESS PRODUCTION DIGITAL IMAGING Alex Sharfman PREPRESS ASSEMBLY David Lee Chin WWD.COM SITE DIRECTOR Michelle Preli WEB EDITOR Roberta Correia ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Kristen Tauer DIGITAL DAILY DESIGNER Sharon Ber WEB PRODUCER Robert Tutton PUBLIC RELATIONS PR COORDINATOR Christina Mastroianni Billy Kidd by Photograph 004 JUNE MONTH 2015, 00,No. 20151 WWD.COM WWD.COM Contents Paul Jowdy SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER ADVERTISING ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Pamela Firestone INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell BEAUTY DIRECTOR Carly Gresh JEWELRY AND WATCH DIRECTOR Jennifer Petersen ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Samantha Hartje Shannon Fitzgerald Alexandra Smith SENIOR CLIENT SERVICES MANAGER Joanna Block CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS Annie Belfield Suzette Minetti Tina Schissel REGIONAL OFFICES/ INTERNATIONAL OFFICES WEST COAST DIRECTOR Jill Biren +1-323-965-7283 EUROPEAN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Giulia Squeri +39-02-722-33602 ACCOUNT MANAGER, ITALY Olga Kouznetsova +39-02-722-33603 SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY Emanuela Altimani EUROPEAN DIRECTOR, FRANCE Valérie Deschamps-Wright +33-1-44-51-07-611 EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE Marjorie Thomas +33-240-31-6541 ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE Pascale Rajac DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES MARKETING DIRECTOR Shannon Nobles CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Cass Spencer DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Cassie Leventhal DIGITAL SALES PLANNER Amy Keiser AUDIENCE MARKETING VP & SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Ellen Dealy The 26-year-old British actor is nominated for a CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Peggy Pyle SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Janet Menaker & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT Tony for his supporting role as a spoiled teenager PLANNING & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR John Cross SENIOR DIRECTOR, Randi Segal in “Skylight.” The Next Colin Firth? Page 39 INSTITUTIONAL SALES SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Suzanne Berardi Matthew Beard in Balenciaga’s wool blazer and Louis Vuitton’s cotton T-shirt. SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Tamra Febesh ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Lauren Busch PRODUCTION PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kevin Hurley DEPARTMENTS PRODUCTION MANAGER Providence Rao SUMMITS & EVENTS 8 Social Studies VICE PRESIDENT & GENERAL MANAGER Jennifer Macaluso EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mary Ann Bacher The best and worst in social media, what’s DIRECTOR, SPONSORSHIPS Amber Mundinger Agenda trending, whom to follow. DIRECTOR, EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING Amelia Ewert SENIOR MANAGER, ATTENDEES Kim Mancuso 32 Media People FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC Fashion 9 If Bill O’Reilly really cared about what you Stephanie George Eight new swimwear brands — all thought of him, he’d want you to know he’s not PRESIDENT AND VICE CHAIRMAN designed by women —make a splash what you might think. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF Michael Atmore FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR . Resort reviews . Fashion OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT Briefs 35 Eye FINANCE DIRECTOR Devon Beemer DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Ron Wilson • Parties Partying with the CFDA, during and after the festivities on its big night. Retail 15 • Eichner’s Eye WWD’s Steve Eichner snaps the Richemont’s Johann Rupert is highly gala, behind the scenes and the after party. WWD AND FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC skeptical about e-commerce in the • Arts & Culture Matthew Beard, film career ARE DIVISIONS OF PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION luxury sector . Lane Bryant’s ascendant, scores a Tony nod on Broadway on Jay Penske overhaul . Retail Briefs his first time out. CHAIRMAN & CEO • Report Card Rating the red carpet crowd at VICE CHAIRMAN Gerry Byrne the CFDA Awards. EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, George Grobar STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS Beauty 19 • They Are Doing Broga . Hitting Vegas with EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, Paul Woolnough Mariah . Getting Hairy . Customizing Bikes BUSINESS AFFAIRS Ulta Beauty accelerates growth . SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, Craig Perreault Marc Jacobs’ latest fragrance . BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT 89 Carolina Herrera’s Dubai launch . Bridget Foley’s Diary GENERAL COUNSEL & Todd Greene SVP HUMAN RESOURCES Smell Test . Beauty Briefs Lady Ambassadors: The realities of being the face of the brand. VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE Nelson Anderson VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE Ken Delacazar VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Tarik West 90 They Are Wearing VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERING Gabriel Koen Markets 24 Who’s got the edge in the hipster battles, Los DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Lauren Gullion Band of Outsiders: A victim of the DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS Joni Antonacci Angeles or New York? brutal environment for indie brands CONTROLLER Young Ko SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGERS Christina Yeoh, . Tommy Hilfiger aims high in 94 Remember Derek Ramsey China . Markets Briefs DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Eddie Ko Ramping up for Art Basel . Human Resources DIRECTOR OF IT OPERATIONS Rick Gascon, . .Events . Obituary & PRODUCTION Matt Williamson SENIOR IT ANALYSTS Carl Foner Aramis Miranda-Reyes 28 96 Finale Reinventing the dress shirt with IT ANALYST Don Gerber Bonanza! A mid-Eighties visit with Ralph Fred Baez advances in fit and fabric . Trends Lauren at the Double RL in Colorado. in shirting style . M Briefs ON THE COVER: David Granger, Esquire; Glenda Bailey, Harper’s Bazaar; Anna Wintour, Vogue; Linda Wells, Allure; Ariel Foxman, In Style. Illustration by Javier Muñoz 6 JUNE 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM SOCIAL STUDIES THE WEEK IN SOCIAL MEDIA Follow Us @WWD Best EDITED BY KRISTEN TAUER EDITED BY DONNA HEIDERSTADT FashionAgenda Another perfect pitch debut. The model and International expansion? Zac Posen The designer found a happy fit when he St. Louis native