TOUGH TUNE TOUGH of The shuttering Outsiders Band of the exemplifies young challenges designers face. 24 p. Markets FASHION FASHION NIGHT winners, the All the carpet and the red after-party action at Awards. the CFDA 35 p. Eye TOMMY TOMMY IN CHINA took Hilfiger Tommy on the road his show hisand opened first in Beijing. flagship 26 p. Markets 800 Hard Sell Hard JAPAN ¥1500 JAPAN CHINA ¥80 HONG KONG HK100 INDIA US $9.99 $13CANADA UK £ 8 €EUROPE 11 Should magazines Should magazines sell stuff? Church aside, issues and State yet. it hasn’t worked Will it ever?

Fashion. Beauty. Business. Business. Beauty. Fashion. No.1

2015 2015 JUN JUN

HARD SELL “Times are tough for independent labels.” KRIS VAN ASSCHE

Edward Nardoza EDITOR IN CHIEF Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley The EXECUTIVE EDITOR James Fallon EDITOR Robb Rice Features GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR John B. Fairchild 1927 — 2015

MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera Hard Sell MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS 46 As newsstand and EUROPEAN EDITOR Miles Socha DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark advertising revenues plunge, NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zaczkiewicz magazine companies are DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR Donna Heiderstadt SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia desperately seeking new SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman TEXTILES & TRADE revenue streams. Does the SENIOR EDITORS, FINANCIAL Arnold J. Karr, Vicki M. Young ASSOCIATE EDITOR Lorna Koski answer reside in magazine BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani e-commerce? BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Bobbi Queen The Lone Ranger ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson 50 The rugged panache SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET Julie Naughton BEAUTY EDITOR of the cowboy comes to life SENIOR FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale SENIOR ACCESSORIES EDITOR Roxanne Robinson through distressed details, SENIOR MARKET EDITOR Mayte Allende EYE EDITORS Taylor Harris, Erik Maza worn-in bandanas and MEN’S SENIOR EDITOR Jean Palmieri touches of suede. FASHION DIRECTOR Alex Badia ASSOCIATE FASHION EDITOR Luis Campuzano MEN’S REPORTER Aria Hughes MARKET EDITORS ACCESSORIES Lauren McCarthy, Misty White Sidell BEAUTY Molly Prior, Jayme Cyk DIGITAL Rachel Strugatz READY-TO-WEAR, Bobbi Queen FURS & INNERWEAR FASHION READY-TO-WEAR & SPORTSWEAR NEWS Rosemary Feitelberg MEDIA Alexandra Steigrad READY-TO-WEAR AND Kristi Garced SPORTSWEAR FASHION EYE Ally Betker, Leigh Nordstrom CORRESPONDENTS LONDON Nina Jones LONDON, EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lorelei Marfil LOS ANGELES Khanh T.L. Tran LOS ANGELES Kari Hamanaka MILAN, FASHION AND NEWS Alessandra Turra MILAN Cynthia Martens NEW YORK, EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Anna Dysinger, William Cotto, Tara Bonet-Black, Kelsi Zimmerman NEW YORK, FASHION ASSISTANTS Andrew Shang, Ashley Davis, Kayana Cordwell, Milton Dixon, Emily Mercer PARIS, EUROPEAN BEAUTY EDITOR Jennifer Weil PARIS, SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Laurent Folcher PARIS, SENIOR BUSINESS NEWS EDITOR Joelle Diderich PARIS, GENERAL ASSIGNMENT Paulina Szmydke REPORTER, NEWS PARIS, EDITORIAL AND WEB ASSISTANT Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant WEB EDITOR, EUROPE Laure Guilbault DESIGN DEPARTMENT CREATIVE DIRECTOR Nick Mrozowski ART DIRECTOR Geraldson Chua SENIOR DESIGNER Christa Guerra DESIGNER Robyn Boehler ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Jewelyn Butron PHOTOGRAPHY ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR Jenna Greene BOOKINGS AND PRODUCTION EDITOR Tricia VanGessel ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR Katrina Brown All Saints’ shearling coat, PHOTO ASSISTANT Morrigan Richardson Nudie Jeans’ cotton shirt PHOTO STUDIO and Frame Denim’s cotton PHOTO STUDIO MANAGER Eileen Tsuji jeans. George Frost x PHOTO STUDIO ASSISTANT Emily Taylor PHOTOGRAPHERS George Chinsee, Steve Eichner, Michael Bastian wallet Thomas Iannaccone chain; Dan Post boots. COPY DESK COPY CHIEF Maureen Morrison-Shulas COPY EDITORS Danielle Gilliard, Maxine Wally CONSULTING COPY EDITOR Anne Rohaiem PREPRESS PRODUCTION DIGITAL IMAGING Alex Sharfman PREPRESS ASSEMBLY David Lee Chin WWD.COM SITE DIRECTOR Michelle Preli WEB EDITOR Roberta Correia ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Kristen Tauer DIGITAL DAILY DESIGNER Sharon Ber WEB PRODUCER Robert Tutton PUBLIC RELATIONS

PR COORDINATOR Christina Mastroianni Billy Kidd by Photograph

004 JUNE MONTH 2015, 00,No. 20151 WWD.COM WWD.COM Contents

Paul Jowdy SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER

ADVERTISING ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Pamela Firestone INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell BEAUTY DIRECTOR Carly Gresh JEWELRY AND WATCH DIRECTOR Jennifer Petersen ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Samantha Hartje Shannon Fitzgerald Alexandra Smith SENIOR CLIENT SERVICES MANAGER Joanna Block CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS Annie Belfield Suzette Minetti Tina Schissel REGIONAL OFFICES/ INTERNATIONAL OFFICES

WEST COAST DIRECTOR Jill Biren +1-323-965-7283 EUROPEAN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Giulia Squeri +39-02-722-33602 ACCOUNT MANAGER, ITALY Olga Kouznetsova +39-02-722-33603 SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY Emanuela Altimani EUROPEAN DIRECTOR, FRANCE Valérie Deschamps-Wright +33-1-44-51-07-611 EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE Marjorie Thomas +33-240-31-6541 ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE Pascale Rajac

DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES MARKETING DIRECTOR Shannon Nobles CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Cass Spencer DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Cassie Leventhal DIGITAL SALES PLANNER Amy Keiser AUDIENCE MARKETING VP & SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Ellen Dealy The 26-year-old British actor is nominated for a CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Peggy Pyle SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Janet Menaker & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT Tony for his supporting role as a spoiled teenager PLANNING & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR John Cross SENIOR DIRECTOR, Randi Segal in “Skylight.” The Next Colin Firth? Page 39 INSTITUTIONAL SALES SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Suzanne Berardi Matthew Beard in Balenciaga’s wool blazer and Louis Vuitton’s cotton T-shirt. SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Tamra Febesh ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Lauren Busch PRODUCTION PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kevin Hurley DEPARTMENTS PRODUCTION MANAGER Providence Rao SUMMITS & EVENTS 8 Social Studies VICE PRESIDENT & GENERAL MANAGER Jennifer Macaluso EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mary Ann Bacher The best and worst in social media, what’s DIRECTOR, SPONSORSHIPS Amber Mundinger Agenda trending, whom to follow. DIRECTOR, EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING Amelia Ewert SENIOR MANAGER, ATTENDEES Kim Mancuso

32 Media People FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC Fashion 9 If Bill O’Reilly really cared about what you Stephanie George Eight new swimwear brands — all thought of him, he’d want you to know he’s not PRESIDENT AND VICE CHAIRMAN designed by women —make a splash what you might think. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF Michael Atmore FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR . . . Resort reviews . . . Fashion OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT Briefs 35 Eye FINANCE DIRECTOR Devon Beemer DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Ron Wilson • Parties Partying with the CFDA, during and after the festivities on its big night. Retail 15 • Eichner’s Eye WWD’s Steve Eichner snaps the

Richemont’s Johann Rupert is highly gala, behind the scenes and the after party. WWD AND FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC skeptical about e-commerce in the • Arts & Culture Matthew Beard, film career ARE DIVISIONS OF PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION luxury sector . . . Lane Bryant’s ascendant, scores a Tony nod on Broadway on Jay Penske overhaul . . . Retail Briefs his first time out. CHAIRMAN & CEO • Report Card Rating the red carpet crowd at VICE CHAIRMAN Gerry Byrne the CFDA Awards. EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, George Grobar STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS Beauty 19 • They Are Doing Broga . . . Hitting Vegas with EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, Paul Woolnough Mariah . . . Getting Hairy . . . Customizing Bikes BUSINESS AFFAIRS Ulta Beauty accelerates growth . . . SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, Craig Perreault Marc Jacobs’ latest fragrance . . . BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT 89 Carolina Herrera’s Dubai launch . . . Bridget Foley’s Diary GENERAL COUNSEL & Todd Greene SVP HUMAN RESOURCES Smell Test . . . Beauty Briefs Lady Ambassadors: The realities of being the face of the brand. VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE Nelson Anderson VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE Ken Delacazar VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Tarik West 90 They Are Wearing VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERING Gabriel Koen Markets 24 Who’s got the edge in the hipster battles, Los DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Lauren Gullion Band of Outsiders: A victim of the DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS Joni Antonacci Angeles or New York? brutal environment for indie brands CONTROLLER Young Ko SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGERS Christina Yeoh, . . . Tommy Hilfiger aims high in 94 Remember Derek Ramsey China . . . Markets Briefs DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Eddie Ko Ramping up for Art Basel . . . Human Resources DIRECTOR OF IT OPERATIONS Rick Gascon, . . .Events . . . Obituary & PRODUCTION Matt Williamson SENIOR IT ANALYSTS Carl Foner Aramis Miranda-Reyes 28 96 Finale Reinventing the dress shirt with IT ANALYST Don Gerber Bonanza! A mid-Eighties visit with Ralph Fred Baez advances in fit and fabric . . . Trends Lauren at the Double RL in Colorado. in shirting style . . . M Briefs

ON THE COVER: David Granger, Esquire; Glenda Bailey, Harper’s Bazaar; Anna Wintour, Vogue; Linda Wells, Allure; Ariel Foxman, In Style. Illustration by Javier Muñoz

6 JUNE 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM SOCIAL STUDIES THE WEEK IN SOCIAL MEDIA Follow Us @WWD Best EDITED BY KRISTEN TAUER EDITED BY DONNA HEIDERSTADT FashionAgenda

Another perfect pitch debut. The model and International expansion? Zac Posen The designer found a happy fit when he St. Louis native threw the opening pitch at a The designer showed off his sharp social stretches his reach worldwide before the stepped into someone else’s shoes for a night. recent Cardinal’s home game. media skills with this promo. Fresh Air Fund gala.

@brian_atwood @karliekloss @louboutinworld @zac_posen Brian Atwood, Shoe Designer Karlie Kloss, Model Christian Louboutin, Brand Zac Posen, Fashion Designer

Worst

Doggie bag desperately needed! Jiff Forget the rat race — Cara Delevingne and “Heavy flow #mycalvins #livestream” went big and put his health on the line for OAK demonstrated that modeling is Joel Kinnaman got up close and personal Justin Bieber and Lara Stone have fresh 1 #NationalBurgerDay. sometimes dirty business. with their rodent friend. competition. LUZ Paris-based designers Claire Mougenot and Vir- @jiffpom @caradelevingne @tildalindstam @oaknyc ginie Courtin-Clarins, who Jiff, The Pomeranian Dog OAK, Store Cara Delevingne, Model Tilda Lindstam, Model etty Images; Poly by Giovanni Giannoni Giovanni by Images; Poly etty Launching met at the Edhec Business School, launched Luz in a swimwear 2014 after discovering a gap in the market: There collection is no was no such thing as an eco-friendly swim brand in Trending Let’s Follow day at the beach, France at the time. The collection, produced #TonyAwards but these eight in South America from organic materials, focuses @cope_leanne MASTER OF CEREMONIES KNIGHT LIFE FASHION’S FAVORITE CFDA So today I have my final new brands — largely on the one-piece, @TheTonyAwards dress fitting with a style both women felt @RandiRahm so soon #TonyAwards all designed by was overlooked. But their @AmericanInParis. version is considerably sexed up, featuring high @georgebrescia women — are Fitting @PlaybillBlake for the cuts and deep décolletés, #TonyAwards at @Guillermo_GCNYC!!! while conveying a sporty making a splash feel heavy on colorblock- @DebraMessing ing. With suits priced from Thank you #TonyAwards !! So with niche $200 to $300, Luz hits in thrilled and honored to present at the U.S. this summer at the big show! offerings that The Webster and Marie @Alancumming Natasha Poly Eiffel and is also sold It appears my new name is Tony Host took the reins on range from online at Cools.com and WWD’s Instagram on Luz’s own e-commerce feed during eco-chic to site. — KRISTI GARCED #CaitlynJenner Monday night’s Luz’s organic cotton and CFDA fashion mix-and-match. elastane one-piece. Pamela With a little help from her awards. Take Sun Dutton earrings; Lillot brace- famous family members, the a look back lets; Catbird rings. reality star and former Olympic at the night as athlete amassed more than seen through her 1 million followers on Twitter eyes at WWD.com (@caitlyn_jenner) and nearly and @WWD. 300,000 on Instagram Seekers (@caitlynjenner) during her @humbertotoo @paulsmithdesign @kevin @natashapoly first day on the accounts. Humerto Leon, Cofounder Paul Smith, Kevin Systrom, Instagram For @WWD and Codesigner, Kenzo and Fashion Designer Founder & ceo Opening Ceremony CFDA Media Award Winner Leon photograph by Desiree Navarro/WireImage; Systrom by David M. Benett/Getty Images for Instagram; Smith by David M. Benett/G David M. Smith by Instagram; Images for Benett/Getty David M. by Systrom Navarro/WireImage; Desiree by photograph Leon

8 JUNE 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM Photographs by EMILY HOPE Styled by MAYTE ALLENDE WWD.COM JUNE 2015, NO. 1 9 10

JUNE 2015, NO. 1 Fashion Agenda cofounder anddesigner, said theLondon-based some crazy cutouts,” and don’t want to wear look elegantbutalsosexy, for women whowant to mare. “We create pieces aimed to capture withVali- ing bikinisfor funat age15, Spain andstarted design- summering onanislandin Fernández, whogrew up a finelinethatPaula Sexy, butstill chic—it’s VALIMARE 4 e-commerce site. ing onthebrand’s own GOOP, inadditionto retail- Operandi, Steven Alanand been picked upby Moda for one-pieces, andhave for separates to $370 styles range from $130 and matched. Seilenna prints, whichcanbemixed hand-drawn whimsical the separates, some in to skimpierstring styles. shapes, from high-waisted in avariety of colors and sized tops andbottoms ers to choosedifferent 2014, allowing custom- who launchedSeilennain New York-based designer, important to me,” saidthe body. “Fit isincredibly suited to every woman’s same size —aformula not tops andbottoms inthe brands, whichoften sell sets from other swim buying coordinated bikini became frustrated when Annelies DeRouck SEILENNA 3 the world thatday?” sona doyou want to show said. kindof“What per- to match theirmood,” Kim blue. “Women want suits sea green andCinderella shiny nude, black, coral, and Revolve, comein 365, Diane’s Beachwear from $60to $70atIShine separates, whichretail Swim last July. and launchedatMiami financing viaKickstarter, in Bali, raised additional She found amanufacturer lege fundsasseedmoney. year earlyto usehercol- of California, SanDiegoa graduated from University swimwear linethatshe so eagerto launcha Sophia Kim, 23, was GOLDEN SIEMPRE 2 rings andbracelet. spandex crop top. Catbird and bottom withrayon and and spandexbikinitop Siempre Golden’s nylon bracelet; Catbird rings. Pamela Dutton earrings and elastane andLycra one-piece. Seilenna’s polyamide, Sleek one-pieces join The flirty, feminine

WWD.COM — MARCY MEDINA — K.G. — 4 23 Viceroy Anguilla. Four SeasonsMauiand upscale hotels suchthe and inboutiques atselect brand’s e-commerce site Valimare issoldonthe and caftans average $250. $100, whilesilkrompers Separates start around accents of goldhardware. colors inluxe fabrics with line emphasizes vibrant last spring. with herpartner, AnkitJain, who launchedthebrand ping outat$275. $100 andone-piecestop- separates starting around retailers,specialty with NYC, Nasty Galandother at Satine, Madison, Scoop collection. Thelineissold once modeledherformer Alyssa Julya Smith, who Lezard in2014withmodel line in2011, launched a namesake swimwear design, havingfounded some are reversible. adjustable straps and almost every suithas Leah Shlaer, noting that or askirt,” saiddesigner as abodysuit withjeans many of ourcustomers are worn year-round by roll edge. “Our one-pieces exudes asubtle rock ’n’ Angeles-based Lezard mon inswimwear —Los styles —rather uncom- Notable for itssexy, lace LEZARD 6 from $50to $345. apparel linefor fall priced addition: acoordinating strom. Hanriot’s latest Molly Brown’s andNord- including Free People, Riot issoldin200stores, after its launch, Beach $200, andjust three years said thedesigner. trends into aswimsuit,” able to translate runway side cutouts. “I love being neck tops andfront and tional looks suchashigh- debuted withunconven- Mesa, Calif.-based Hanriot sportswear, theCosta swimwear andPrimp former designerfor Tavik wear withanedge. A last name, offers swim- designer NicoleHanriot’s Beach Riot, aplayon BEACH RIOT 5 Tibi earring. elastane topandbottom. Valimare’s polyamideand Melinda Mariabracelets. earrings; Nettie Kent and rings; Colette Malouf Vanessa LianneandCatbird and spandexone-piece. Lezard’s polyester, Lycra Tibi earring. spandex topandbottom. Beach Riot’s nylonand Produced inItaly, the Shlaer, nostranger to Suits retail from $45to — K.G. — — K.G. — — M.M. 5 6 7 e-commerce site. and issoldonthebrand’s ranges from $150to $225 all madeinNew York, throughout. Theswimwear, pops of blueandfuchsia sexy yet feel, sporty with and strap details and for prints, ruffle itsflirty tively. Theirlinestands out pion activewear, respec- Yigal Azrouël andCham- following designstints at where they each live, the lineoutof Brooklyn, forces in2013to launch Texans, joinedcreative Ann Sim, both native Swimtarte partner, Kaelea thought-out.’” that ruffleplacementwas beyond ‘cute to suit’ ‘Wow, customer. “We want to go Sparling of theSwimtarte said cofounder Alexis an evening gown would,” importance [to her]as “Swimwear holdsasmuch SWIMTARTE 8 from $258to $495. crocodile sandalspriced a lineof leatherand Angeles. New thisseason: and JillRoberts inLos at theFourSeasonsMaui Francisco, SeasideLuxe Dallas, Waterlilies inSan including Reveal in for $250at25doors, Crosher, thesuitsretail pool printby artist Zoe and blush, includinga of Grecian blue, white everywhere,” shesaid. things you see ers. “It’s not thecheeky take for resort-go- luxury Italy, offer asophisticated cover-ups, allmadein Her reversible suitsand launched for resort 2014. of LeSwim, which explained thefounder history’s cominginto it,” percent Greek, somy Adriana Caras. “I’m 100 Angeles-based designer blood, saidveteran Los Swimwear isinher LESWIM 7 Alexis Sparling, suit’ to ‘Wow, thatruffle as anevening gown would. We wantto go beyond ‘cute “Swimwear [to holdsasmuch ourcustomer] importance earrings; Catbird rings. bracelets; Cara Croninger and Cara Croninger one-piece. Meadowlark polyamide andelastane LeSwim’s stretch jersey, Colette Malouf earrings. Lele Sadoughi bracelet; and spandexone-piece. Swimtarte’s Lycra, nylon Sparling andher Done inapalette Swimtarte — K.G. — — M.M. DIGITAL TECH: KATHERINE ST. PAUL HILLAT WSMUSINGTOM FORD; MAKEUP BY MODEL: 8 ZHENYA/WOMEN; ELISA FLOWERS FORDIORBEAUTY AT BA-REPS.COM; BERK DOGAN; placement wasthoughtout.’” HAIR BY FASHION ASSISTANT: TAKUYA SUGAWARA AT WSMUSINGAVEDA; MILTON DIXON PHOTO ASSISTANT: MANICURIST ERIK TANNER; WWD.COM

JUNE 2015, NO. 1

11 12 JUNE 2015, No. 1 Resort Collections 2016 to every lifestyle. to every lifestyle. key offeringsappeal beading,resort’sdelicate to theshimmer of florals andstripes appeal. From bold yet fanciful practical convey theseason’s and texture, they Playing withpattern of easy, looks. breezy showing awidearray way, withdesigners O Leisure At Your Resortunder is WWD.COM ED EARS ISLBAKGL TOMAS MAIER DIESELBLACK GOLD ROSE LELA FENDI UBRYPOSMMXMR BOTTEGA VENETA MARA MAX BURBERRY PRORSUM

Max Mara photograph by Antonio Salgado; Bottega Veneta and Lela Rose by George Chinsee; Fendi by Paola Pansini; Diesel by Kevin Sinclair OI YILATZRAOCRD ARNADONNAKARAN OSCAR RENTA DELA ALTUZARRA SONIA RYKIEL ISN OSTR UC PREEN TORY BURCH BOSS MISSONI WWD.COM JUNE 2015, No. 1

13 Fashion Agenda FashionBriefs EDITED BY EVAN CLARK RetailAgenda

BLAKES REMAKE creatively over the space, QUOTED A Spirited Oasis which is great as I can be true to my own personal “We’ve A look OBritish designer Matthew design DNA,” Williamson from Williamson teamed with said. “I aimed to create a all been Gretchen floral artist Rebecca Louise magical oasis for guests Jones’ Law to revamp the court- to escape the hustle and entrapped Gen Art yard of Blakes Hotel London bustle of London. I’ve 2012 into the Hendrick’s Horticul- used my Osborne & Little in the last 15, show. tural Oasis, open daily from fabrics from the Samana 10 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. through collection, which work so 20 years by July 14. Inspired by the well in the space.” He also fast fashion, BESTSELLER botanical makeup of Hen- collaborated with Rockett drick’s Gin, the space was St. George to source the to buy so European Graffiti curated with British roses, furniture, while Law’s dis- juniper berries, peonies, play in the glass “birdcage” fast, at always TALENT HUNT Milanese women are apparently in a hydrangeas and lavender summer house “transforms the cheapest Fresh Faces Johann Rupert, fighting mood. Faith Connexion’s arty alongside taxidermy and the space into a wonderful Revived vintage garden furniture. floral sensory experience.” prices, and Compagnie army jacket (1,000 euros, or $1,098 at “I was given free rein — LORELEI MARFIL OGen Art, a 20-year-old current exchange) is a bestseller at this movie organization known for Financiére launching new talent in Antonia, a luxury boutique located in shows what fashion, film and art, is Richemont’s the city’s chic Brera district. The shop, reviving its Gen Art Fresh the real Faces in Fashion compe- head skeptic, which offers a cool mix of established tition, after a three-year luxury brands and emerging designers, cost of this hiatus. said it’s very “Our goal is to discover sold about 20 of the French brand’s cycle is.” that exceptional under- hard to say spring items in a few days. “The graffiti Livia Firth at the London the-radar talent, already premier of “The True Cost,” making tracks in his or her “e-commerce” gives this piece an innovative and a hard-hitting documentary career,” new co-owner Keri unique touch,” said the store’s founder on the garment industry Ingvarsson said. and “luxury” that she coproduced. The winner will be awarded Antonia Giacinti.— ALESSANDRA TURRA a one-year incubation in the same program to accelerate their career. In addition to being CHART featured in a New York Fash- breath. Taking Stock of Luxury ion Week show, the three By RACHEL STRUGATZ finalists will be mentored OA strong dollar and shifts in market share created and JOELLE DIDERICH extremes in luxury sector stock valuations over by the Gen Art fashion jury: the past six months. former IMG executive Chris- 6-month tina Neault, Betsey Johnson, Symbol TEDI Change (USD)* Robert Verdi, Man Repeller Name Ted Baker plc +31.5% blogger Leandra Medine Close (USD) 44.21 and Gen Art Fresh Faces RMS designer alumni Duckie Is Rupert Right? Hermès International SCA +14.5% Brown and Zac Posen. 383.80 — LISA LOCKWOOD irst thing’s first: Compagnie keep our clients happy. I would actually love more “There may be an acceleration going forward — we Financiére Richemont is one of of it because that would mean I wouldn’t get raped don’t know what the next generation of mobile SFERm luxury’s savviest digital players. on Fifth Avenue, in Ginza, [Tokyo,] or in shopping phones will be, we don’t know how technology Salvatore Ferragamo Italia SpA +13.9% Q+A: 31.08 what is excellence. I think the same of the people the students is wrong. As The parent of Cartier, Van malls around the world.” will progress.” Royal College the smartest people in they employ. soon as they get to the sec- Cleef & Arpels and Montblanc But Rupert seemed resigned to the fact that such There are still certain experiences that just don’t BRBYI fashion, Miuccia Prada or Q: How are you preparing has glittering online flagships a day is far off into the future, if it comes at all. translate online. Burberry Group plc +2.3% of Art’s Zowie ond year, they’re very keen 26.46 Broach Rei Kawakubo, are deeply the students for the bru- to go out and meet people and sells via the Web in the That’s a resignation that could be very much tied “With jewelry, people are often very loyal to one connected to the present tal world of fashion? and connect. We’ve had U.S., Europe, Japan and China, to Richemont’s emphasis on hard luxury goods, company, and their relationship with the jewelry MC OZowie Broach, cofounder intellectual thinking. And A: They’re sharp to the different people coming in F which just went live. The whole such as watches, which haven’t blossomed online most likely began in a tactile way, by holding the LVMHMoët Hennessy Louis Vuitton +1.7% I think they would expect of the fashion-meets-art business of life, sharp to from different stages, very of the Asia-Pacific region will follow next year. in the same way that apparel sales have. And his pieces against their skin and feeling the weight 183.04 label Boudicca and a long- understanding what they different journeys, asking Still, e-tailing makes up just 1 percent of comments are in keeping with the general rhetoric of them,” said Sheila Teague, the London-based, time educator, is the new know — and what they ‘Must you be based in CFR Richemont’s retail sales, and while the company’s in luxe, which treats the Web as high-end artisan jeweler and co-owner of Wright -5.6% Richemont head of fashion at London’s don’t. They also know the London? Can you be based 88.79 Royal College of Art, which current business model is in Iceland or Berlin? What influential chairman, Johann Rupert, is happy another white glove service, part & Teague. offers a two-year MA taking a while to shift: I had does the geography of the to take the category’s swift growth, he is bluntly of a rarefied effort to give the Teague said about 20 percent of her business 1913 program. Alumni include a student who said: ‘I can Internet give?’ José Neves skeptical of its sales impact for luxe. customer what she wants. comes from the brand’s e-commerce site, with the -12% Prada SpA Zandra Rhodes, Ossie work for Ralph Lauren and [founder of the luxury 5.70 “I don’t know the Maison where the e-com- “I am on the same page as rest deriving from the one brick-and-mortar store Clark, Christopher Bailey still sell clothes online.’ You fashion platform Farfetch. merce Web site is better, or should I say bigger, Johann Rupert. Hard luxury is in Mayfair and from private orders. There are a and Erdem Moralioglu. We don’t have to have one job. com] came and gave a talk, BOSS than their largest single brick-and-mortar build- the last category that will break barriers to high-end jewelry selling online: “People caught up with Broach just You can be fluid. You can and I think they found that -12% Hugo Boss AG ing,” he recently told investors. “It’s growing into the online space in absolute need to know the brand and have enough confi- 116.03 before her first student be part of the structure, really positive. Johann Rupert fashion show this week at but you don’t have to have Q: How’s Boudicca faring? fast, but…it’s not gigantic for any luxury goods terms,” said Mario Ortelli of Ber- dence in it to buy online,” she said, adding that her KER the college in Kensington. a narrative of a collection A: We’re still alive, but not company….The women, sorry ladies, they all order nstein Research in London, pointing to the barri- online sales tend to be gifts or the less expensive Kering -14.4% Q: What are you aiming to that’s really costly and that doing shows. It’s a lot of jeans that are slightly too small for them, and I can ers that remain for hard luxury sales online. “Hard pieces costing in the range of 500 pounds, or $770, 177.10 instill in the students? you know won’t sell. private orders, artists and give you the statistics. They’ll buy five sizes, they’ll luxury is very often used as a gift; it will take time that are purchased in haste. BCm A: I want them to be Q: Two academic years musicians. I’ve learned order five sizes, and send four back for free. It’s for customers to trust the channel; and purchases She pointed out there are a number of things -21.2% Brunello Cucinelli SpA independent thinkers, to is not much time at all. more about fashion doing wonderful. People then order four watches and are far less frequent than for soft luxury, where working against hard luxury’s success online: “The 18.30 And it’s costly. How be present to their time, private orders than any- send three back. So, within e-commerce, it’s very online is becoming more and more important.” big brands are worried about distribution and and that means philoso- have you organized the thing else. You learn about KORS phy, science, technology, M.A. program? people’s bodies, their inse- difficult to say e-commerce and luxury goods.” Ortelli said in the next five to 10 years, 10 to 15 exclusivity, especially with third-party retailers. -40.13% Michael Kors Holdings Ltd. Rupert said e-commerce was a service for the percent of total luxury sales will be done online, Cartier doesn’t want to see its jewelry sold along- 45.93 material — and history. It’s A: You need the first year curities, what mood they’re also about understanding to be playful, exploratory. I in, what their lifestyles are. company’s clients and one that needs to be seam- and for hard luxury, online will represent a frac- side something cheap. Controlling your image is

*As of close of market on May 27, 2015 great cut and drape — and think putting a cage around — SAMANTHA CONTI de Villaboa Gomez Francisco by Broach Chopard; Images for Segretain/Getty Le Pascal by Firth photograph less. “We’ll continue to grow it and it will help us tion — about 5 percent — of those overall sales. difficult online, and there needs to be a level of ►

14 JUNE 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM Illustration by MATTHEW BILLINGTON WWD.COM JUNE 2015, No. 1 15 16

JUNE 2015, No. 1 Retail Agenda D brick-and-mortar building.” better,site is orshould Isay bigger, thantheirlargest single “I don’t know where theMaison Web thee-commerce brand online.” ofshopping withthe andinteracting possibility toprovideand e-commerce theirclientswiththe have nochoice…they needtoembracedigital online more andmore frequently. Luxury players However,e-commerce. consumersbuytheseitems for products notthemostsuitable certainly retailer; highjewelry andluxury watchesare “He hastheperspective ofahard luxury group/ atHarvardness administration BusinessSchool. said AnatKeinan, professor anassociate ofbusi- merce accelerator. brands are increasingly pressing down thee-com- andVanbrands, includingCartier Cleef&Arpels. said. online],” Gilbert concierge service or e-commerce customer withbothpaths[direct brands are amongthebestatpresenting the because view theRichemont ofe-commerce mistic have both. 38 percent provide concierge and28 services, commerce, of thebrandsofferdirect-to-consumer of$85,400.highest pricelisting Forty-five percent purchasedirect onlineof$58,000, withanaverage andsawtotal thehighestaverage pricepointfor above $25,000. — have on theirsitesthatretail listed products in L2’s IQIndex andjewelry Digital forwatches enabled brands—orabout20of37 companies influence.” digital by You someonlinetouchpoint. can’t ignore the half ofallluxury purchases are now influenced a checkout scenario, butwe have thatsays data expenditures are beingconsummatedonlinein atL2Inc.“Onlydirector 4percent ofluxury the dollar,” IQIndex Digital Gilbert, saidColin zero.virtually For Mr. Rupert,that’s pennieson jewelry salesare That’s doneviae-commerce. luxury goods. be runningonparoraheadofthepackinhard not tohappen online. ofsalestend rations andevents. Andthosetypes had theirchildren andthrough majorcommemo- family jeweler following peoplefrom when they’ve Wright &Teague hasbecomeadestination, a evidence ofthe‘everywhere-ness’ ofeverything.” exclusivity. Andby itsvery nature theInternetis increases forluxuryincreases brands. wouldsaid e-commerce deliver concrete sales executive atLVMH Moët Vuitton, Hennessy Louis think it’s allone,andnotonechanneloranother.” physical stores, online stores networks.I andsocial whole revolution digital asbeing seamlessbetween space.SoIseeitvery seamlessly.digital Iseethe “Rupert is sharing his experience at Richemont,” “Rupert sharing experience is his atRichemont,” Rupert’s skepticism comesatatimewhen luxe Eleven ofthebrandsinindex are Richemont “It’s ironic thatMr. pessi- this taking Rupert is L2’s Decemberstudy looked at82 brandsin He notedthatmore thanhalfofthee-commerce “One-tenth ofapercent and ofallwatches At 1percent, Richemontfornow seemsto Teague case, alsosaidthatinherparticular Lalonde, who hasyearsLalonde, ofexperience asan

WWD.COM ing brandslargely through the discovering brandsandlearn- ers throughout theworld are said:“YoungerPierlot, consum- to Sandro, Maje andClaudie officer ofSMCPGroup, parent chiefexecutiveaniel Lalonde, Johann Rupert brands. He Hublot, Rolex, cited Audemars Piguet, tosellingonlinefromresistance hard luxury the brandsstillaren’t there yet.” Veneta.Bottega ready; customeris “The mostof Aspreysaid King,whose clientsincludeAkris, and designed, it’s notgiven thesamefocus orbudget,” management team,yet whenflagship adigital is the fullattentionofceo, designerandentire as pointsofpurchase. research, product to conduct theyshould double an app andaWeb places asimportant siteserving vehicle correctly. —iftackled Inadditiontoastore, absolutely asasales Partners, seese-commerce of penetrationoverall said. sales,”Lalonde more thandoubleover thenext five years interms percent today, Ithinkit’s very likely thatitwould next five years andiftheaverage 6 penetrationis the “digital playground” —which encompasses That’s upfrom the estimated 6percent atpresent. percent luxury retail oftotal revenues by 2020. merce operationswillaccount for12percent to18 in arecent report monobrande-com- thatdirect channels,” Kingsaid. To methat meanslimitedsupply, nothard-to-use shouldproduct behard toget tokeep itprecious. atNet-a-porter.com.)shop-in-shop Crush witha Coco offinejewelry called lection recentlyholdout, launched col- itsnew capsule “add tobag”button.(Chanel,longane-commerce to make aninformedpurchase —yet there no is the consumerallinformationtheywould need show every provide detail, great imagery andgive Chanel andDunhillasbrandsthathave sitesthat He acknowledged thathe’s seenthestrongest designingaflagship “When store you have Tony King& agency King,founderofdigital “It willbethefastest-growing channelinthe More importantly, theresearch that indicated projected Exane BNPParibasandContactLab “I believe thosebrandshave thata thementality E-Commerce Strategic Reach 30 20 25 10 15 0 5 04 09 1 3 150 130 110 90 60 40 20 0 SOURCE: ExaneBNPParibas Compagnie Financiére Richemont High-end brands, whichtend to view theWeb asmore marketing tool thansalesoutlet, have beenemphasizingdigital reach over customer experience. Bottega Veneta Saint Laurent Dior Valentino The DigitalLuxuryMap Digital CustomerExperienceProficiency Chanel Cucinelli 75 speed should one scale itup?”speed should onescale Arnault said,noting atwhat Thequestion is, will sellontheInternet. than itsstores. Web sitedraws ayear, 100million visitors more Vuitton’s andsales.He notedthatLouis nication bothforbrandcommu-presence wasimportant annual general springthatadigital meetingthis Moët Vuitton, Hennessy Louis toldthecompany’s in-store clients. (41 percent) willrepresent almost90percent ofall clientsviae-mail percent) anddigitallycontactable alltheirclientsbyvirtually name.Registered (45 thatbyjected 2020, luxury brandswillknow conditionforsurvival.” essary willbeanec- development capabilities ofdigital remain key andcore —make nomistake.Butthe travel didalongtimeago. Physical assetswill same way and as,forexample, services financial —the into‘somethingmorphing structurally new’ finally thatthewhole is luxuryment is industry according “A tothereport. more accuratestate- awildunderstatement,” will comefrom is digital 50 percent from ofsales around 25percent now. drivendigitally in-store revenues —willgrow to we domore.” can ■ potential remains andwe very substantial believe director ofKering, saidrecently. growth “The group,” Palus,group Jean-François managing percent ofthegroup’s luxury revenues. merce siteandonlinesalesnow accountfor2 evolving,”constantly Arnault said. thatwe services are toworktain trying on.It’s highcustomer demandforcer- is added. “There likeservices “order instore,” he online,collect site, forexample. ofproductsonitsU.S.a selection e-commerce number Vuitton ofcountries,butLouis only sells that Sephoraalready sitesina hase-commerce “I thinkthatastimegoes on,more products Bernard Arnault, chairmanandceo ofLVMH alsopro- Exane BNPParibasandContactLab “Saying thatanoverwhelming ofgrowth portion “Digital is more forour is thanever“Digital apriority At Kering, ofbrandsrunane-com- themajority ondevelopingThe group focusingefforts is Hermès Loro Piana Evan Clark and SamanthaConti —With contributions from

infographic by Carlos Monteiro

Fragrance photo by Thomas Iannaccone T in arelatively shortperiod.” brand.Weinto this are looking todoublevolume desire great fashion. We wanttobreathe new life and beautiful andalways appropriate. Allwomen in 1900]believed inhelpingwomen feelconfident Bryant [who foundedLane Bryant added. “Lena nail business. opportunity. Eventually, we willlaunch alipand ley explained. “We asa$50million seebeauty It’s wear it. they can aboutthedesigner,” Heas- Toledo fragrances.“Iwantallwomen to feel withashort-livedcategory fragrance. Cacique oncedabbled inthe Bryant spring 2016. Lane intheworks IsabelIsabel,is for fragrance, called withscentstripsforthelaunch.magalogs Athird tember. 8million chainwilldistribute The779-unit stores inSep- Bryant andlanebryant.com Lane Honey andKuba Rose. Thefragranceswill hitall Toledos, who are fragrances—Crystal creating two getting businessvia the seriousaboutthebeauty andinterpretations.” rications and thenwe bringinourexpertise infitandfab- “It’s Bryant. officer ofLane allaboutgreat design, said LindaHeasley, president andchiefexecutive holiday 2015 delivery. Rosethe Lela collaborationconcludeswiththe thatwilllaunchcollection inspring2016, while Sirianowillcreate acapsule and SophieTheallet. those withIsabelandRuben Toledo, Rose Lela designercollaboration,followingas itsfourth on “Project Runway” Siriano winnerChristian about what got, andeven they’ve flaunt it. sizeshouldwomen feelcomfortable ofacertain for thefirsttime,andmarketing themessage that intothemix products rations, bringingbeauty Plus-size Among other growth maneuvers, Lane Bryant Among othergrowth Bryant maneuvers, Lane hasnever mission changed,”“The theceo won’t Bryant Lane itsnametothe new attach is Bryant WWD hasalsolearnedthatLane “We are tosay trying it’s notallaboutsize,” hassigned Bryant WWD haslearnedthatLane By By Toledos get onboard. Siriano,Christian the Bryant’sLane overhaul: DAVID MOIN Potential stable ofdesignercollabo- stable ion offeringwithagrowing volume by updatingitsfash- targeting28 is $2billionin chainforsizes14 to specialty saysBryant “get over it.” who eschewlarge sizes,Lane designers o those“fattist” The $1.08 billionwomen’s The retailer will with Isabeland Ruben Toledo. September in fragrances in collaboration start selling designer. styles by the ready-to-wear swim and Theallet. Here, help of Sophie its lookwiththe been updating Lane Bryant has to published reports, Americans grew reports,to published aninch Americans sales occur. Inthelasthalfcentury, according the brand’s20 is sweet spot—where themost size12or larger,female populationis andsize their favor. More than60percent ofAmerica’s America’s are in statistics wideningwaistlines, $34.50 to$64.50. that sellforasmuch as$360. Bras range from though there are some dresses soldonlineonly at thehighend.Dresses run from $59.95 to$128, are priced from $19.95 to$98,withdesignertops ranging from $69to$118.Knitandwoven tops than before, willbedisplayed. and leathers,pricedroughly 30percent higher fall,cashmeres moderate toupper moderate.This higher-priced goods that’s toanassortment largely opportunity.” a“significant is where,” Heasley said.Ontheotherhand,hosiery after hosiery. get “Our clientscan handbagsany- by largely apassonhandbagsandgoing taking into theirbodies,andnotaway from it.” wrong.jeans is We are teachingwomen todress The viewthatlarge wear women skinny cannot invested way. inthedenimbusinessasignificant tummy-shaping fitsandskinny legs. well asadditionaldenim options,suchasstretch, at theVictoria’s Secret Angels. professing “I’mnoangel,” inanapparent crack themselves describing and as“hot,” wiggling, current which hasmodelsinlingerie campaign, sexy andbeautiful.” Themessage outinthe came and“strivesbusiness toletlarge-sizewomen feel ley, Bryant accountsfor30percent oftheLane trend technology. orproduct saidHeas- Cacique, to three tofive ayear, eachinvolving anewfashion intimate apparel launches hasacceleratedproduct stores, which average 5,000 to6,000 square feet. Livi occupying 10to15 Bryant percent ofLane bras,” Heasley said,aswell asinsellingspacewith compression andsport inbottoms forsupport session,” Heasley said.“We’ve invested inwicking, now oraworkout designedforastopatStarbucks revamped itstwo-year-old active line,Livi. “It’s Though Lane Bryant executives Bryant Though Lane don’t dwell on Pants are priced$44.95 to$118,withdenim inlayeringShe alsoseesopportunity insome “picking itsspots” is Bryant In accessories,Lane jeansweren’t“The sexy,” Heasley said.“We’ve pantfitslastyear, alsoaddedtwo Bryant Lane as Bryant’sLane loungewear Cacique labelfor WWD.COM

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JUNE 2015, No. 1 Retail Agenda Linda Heasley — andlotsofmuumuus. regardedmerchandise sometimes as“tonnage” coming acheckered withdowdy pastassociated glow oversophisticated thebrandmeansover- analyst, saidrecently.chief industry tomer. That’s Marshal amistake,” NPD’s Cohen, that theydon’t wanttomarket cus- totheplus-size year,this continues while misses’ toloseground. marketthe plus-size tracking2percent is ahead the U.S. are show size12orabove. Otherstatistics Linda Heasley, and fabrications.” bring inourexpertise infit great design,andthenwe all about size.It’s allabout “We are to trying say it’s not and68percentlarge-size garment, ofwomen in percent ofU.S. women say theywear atleastone tracking 12percent year. aheadthis Thirty-seven billioninsaleslastyeargenerated and are $4.3 grew 1percent from ayear ago. Online,plussizes market forthe12monthsendedSeptember, and $17.7 billionofthe$116.2women’s apparel customer enough.Plussizes thefull-figuredeach year duetonotservicing $12 billionto$14 lost billionworth ofbusinessis average woman weighs 165 pounds. mantodayAmerican weighs 194poundsandthe 24poundsheavier. andbecame taller Theaverage have scale.”■ tobeliketrying astart-up. At thesametime,we brand,” He money intothis from eachother. We share allofour ideas.” its own strategy, learn can thoughtheycertainly Ascena’s chairman andceo, brandhas said:“Each could beapplied toAnn,orviceversa, David Jaffe, billion inrevenues. year andaddingmoresecond halfofthis than$2 andstockdeal,seenclosinginthe billion cash acquiringchains, andis AnnInc.through a$2.2 theDressalso operates Barn,Maurices andJustice deal includedCatherines.The$5billionAscena lion buyout ofCharmingShoppes Inc.in2012.The which acquired thebusinessthrough its$890mil- withthatheritage.”baggage thatcomes an incredible heritage, butthere’s alsosomebrand stillrelevant is andthere’s Bryant “Lane Bryant. president andchiefmarketing officerforLane unlocked,” saidBrianBeitler, executive vice Secret andCatherines. Torrid, Nordstrom, Ashley Stewart, QVC, Victoria’s are Kohl’s,sector OldNavy, J.C. Penney, Target, size apparel. Among otherkey competitorsinthe overall, only Wal-Mart andMacy’s sellmore large- Recent results suggest thatchanges atthebrand amore tocast For team,trying Bryant theLane “Designers today are stillundertheimpression According from todata TheNPDGroup, some “The newownership committedtoputting “The is Bryant Asked atLane occurring ifstrategies owned is by Bryant AscenaRetailLane Group, “There’s power there thatneedstobe

WWD.COM Lane Bryant in large sizes,andforretailing try’s biggestretailer specializing before. the lossof$30.1 milliontheyear million,compared with of $4.3 hadanoperatingloss Bryant year endedJuly 26, 2014, Lane with consumers.Inthefiscal so farhaven’t fully clicked in The chainranksasthecoun- asley added.“We are only accountedfor centers anda “Wanda develop theshopping investments andwill revenue from property to reduce itsreliance on the company’s strategy southwest China. rapidly developing in city park inChongqing, the mallsandatheme luxury 28 new Wanda Plaza or $24.2billion, to build investing 150billionyuan, Group, has committed to of theDalianWanda O Empire Mainland Mall Expands Richest Man China’s GOING CHONGQING Retail The move of ispart Wang Jianlin, head country’s economy. ion hubfor sub-Saharan Africa.” considered to bethelikely fash- continent…[it] canbereasonably advanced economy of the Africa remains, infact, themost the continent. Guccisaid: “South something of abeachheadon Town andseesthestores as also hasaboutiqueinCape in Johannesburg. Thebrand corp Ltd. andisopeningastore a jointventure withGMT-Invest- South African market through O South Africa Gucci in THE CHART  Here’s aquicklookatthe Gucci isdirectly entering the saturated by malls. becoming increasingly tier 1markets, whichare from China’s eastern This signalsapivot away province of Sichuan. malls inWang’s home would include21more 10-fold increase that by theendof 2025, a its fleet of mallsto 1,000 under 30millionpeople. municipality, hometo just oper hasintheswelling of mallsthatthedevel- increase inthenumber envisions aneight-fold giant said. commercial property investment partner,” the Chongqing’s largest and willmake Wanda company’s largest ever government. Chongqing municipal in partnership withthe Cultural Tourism City” China’s property Wanda plansto build The arrangement dealisoneof“The the Briefs GDP Growth: Income level: South Africa industry expanded in2014by: trade, catering andaccommodation The wholesale, retail andmotor ADDING ON SOURCES: TheWorld Bank, SouthAfrican government Population: 34 billion (or $3.13billion) rand South African

Upper middleincome +1.5% +2.2% 54.7 million in2014 in2013 MIDDLEHURST to Forbes. a year ago, according from $15.1billion $24.2 billionthisyear wealth soared to central region. China’s fast-developing profits are to behadin Dalian Wanda holdsthat Statistics of China. Yet the NationalBureau of published thismonthby years, according to data its lowest rate innine growth istracking at government revenues. amid declininglocal spending isalsoslowing Pacific. Infrastructure sensus Forecast for Asia FocusEconomics Con- ing to data from the for homebuyers, accord- easing credit conditions to prop upactivityby government’s efforts doldrums despite the market remains inthe Wang’s estimated China’s retail sales — CHARLOTTE 505 billion (or $46.56billion) rand South African Santa Monica, Calif. pop-up for stint ashort in accommodate aGlossier retail business, whichwill the company’s budding Nasty Galfounder, on Sophia Amoruso, for us.” new dawn It’s like a exciting…. it’s super in retail and anticipated kind of than we opportunity just more there’s learning… “We’re THE QUOTE economy of the 13.3 % Accounting for

Illustration by Carlos Monteiro; Wang by China U Photograph by Spurt Growth Ulta’s EDITED BY fast should we begrowing? working Whatis inwithfreshlon, “Shecame eyes andsaid,‘How thinking. andanalytical nod tohervisionary getting highmarks from Wall Street analysts, who next five years. couldpush itsshareUlta to6percent over the sources thatatitscurrent estimate growth rate there’s tograbmore. Industry ampleopportunity percent share oftheU.S. market beauty —and that many shoppers. stillunknownmembers —buttheconceptis to of itssalescomefrom its15.5 club millionloyalty from itscurrent customers—afterall,80percent 5 to7percent ayear. percent ofsales,andcomparablesalesgrowth of operationthataccountsfor10 an e-commerce growth planintendedtoresult in500newstores, stepping onthegaswithafive-year Dillonis Mary vance forsometime,butchiefexecutive officer beauty.reigning leaderofspecialty narrowhelping Ulta thegapwithSephora, withinit—is and salonproducts andservices ofmass,prestige— andthecuratedassortment dooraddedtothe nearly chain new Ulta 800-unit more consumersacross thecountry. William Blairanalyst DanielHofkin saidofDil- Nearly years two intoherrole asceo, Dillonis hasapproximatelyDillon notedthatUlta a3 In Dillon’s view, already Ulta garnersallegiance hasworkedUlta tobroaden itsreach andrele- isn’tBut Ulta simply areal story. estate Every By By doors andmore premium brands. grow salesandawareness withnew tocharging aheadwithitsstrategy The red-hot emporiumis beauty MOLLY PRIOR PETE BORN THOMAS IANNACCONE duce thenameplateto doors by 2019, and intro- toreachmission 1,200 throttlingis aheadinits signs offatigue. retailer isn’t showing any and thehigh-growth inoverdrive, is Beauty lta The beauty emporium emporium The beauty ► of Ulta. executive officer Dillon,Mary chief Beauty Agenda WWD.COM

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JUNE 2015, No. 1 BeautyAgenda changes forthesake ofit.” strengths are. She’s to nottrying make sweeping very what good“[Dillon is] Ulta’s atidentifying DANIEL HOFKIN, tiated environment, theguest, understanding of Ulta’s positioningandcompetitive advantage. “accessible brands,”are alsoanessential part thatmassbrands,orwhat emphasizes she called which providesica, services. skin-care offers brow shaping —Philosophy, andDermalog- brands,includingBare —which Escentuals upscale eyesvisitors’ are immediately drawn toother ny’s growth. prestige andskin cosmetics care leadthecompa- gains, as sales has helpedfuelthosedouble-digit about 100doors.Theadditionofthesebrands and Clinique boutiquesLancôme eachoccupy are foundin approximately and 600locations, experience. boutiques Now Cosmetics Benefit improvingon doorsanddramatically thein-store ceo Lyn Kirby, who wooed brandsby knocking It’sto theassortment. apathfirstforged by former one roof —hassteadily a formerchandising massandclassunder that calls —known viewofbeauty Ulta foritsdemocratic percenttions anda4.2 gaininaverage ticket size. percent, driven by 7.2 percent growth intransac- $713.8 salesincreased11.4 million.Comparable May 2gained21.6 percent to$868.1 millionfrom year-ago period.Salesforthethree monthsended compared with$50million,or77cents,inthe cent to$66.9 million,or$1.04 adilutedshare, site, gained9.9 percent theyear. during sales,whichsame-store includeitse-commerce a 21.4 percent gainover theprioryear. Itstotal rate, achieving$3.24 billioninsales2014, or times forUlta. happening is againstthebackdropcise ofgood what areas willcontinue tomake usstronger.” Let’sto fixit. tohypothesize sitbackandtry about notbrokenis I’ve learnednottogo aheadandtry overnight. It’s toorisky,” saidDillon.“Ifsomething learning andnotchangingthingstoodramatically approach. “Iamabigbeliever intestingand sweeping changes forthesake ofit.” what Ulta’s are. strengths She’s tomake nottrying not?’She’sand what is very good at identifying “What we“What are creating adifferen- allaboutis While walkingthrough thestore here, Dillon Upon store enteringanUlta inGlendale,N.Y., Ulta’s netincomegained34per- first-quarter The retailer continues togrow atastaggering Fortunately thatexer- forDillonandherteam, Dillon prefers totake amore evolutionary

WWD.COM Ulta isconstantly experimenting withnew ways to drive sales. Here are three recent ones: This IsaTest outperforming theirsalesforecasts. lower fixtures —are services andbeauty — whichincludeacurated assortment, nal, Utah andMorganton, N.C. Thestores opened two suchstores located inVer- rural andurbanmarkets. InSeptember, it its traditional footprint) for store (orhalfthesize of smaller 5,000-square-foot Last year, Ulta designeda Lean andmean William Blair ttracted prestigettracted brands

available inventory attheirlocalstore. tory ads, whichallow customers to see rolled outGoogleInven- same-day delivery. It’s also Express infive markets for Ulta istesting Google Speedy delivery customer is winningheraccolades fromcustomer is vendors. aroundespecially key holidays.” every brandwe have exclusive stockkeeping units, saidDillon. “Almost helpswiththat,” sivity within bedistinctivethat we thebetter, can andexclu- consumers. able toputthemalltogether.” Shelovesand aMurad product. thenotionofbeing up aMaybelline anUrban Decay product, product For pick thatshe can absolutely critical heritis get she butsometimesshetance can it, doesn’t. great andbrands.Whenshe categories wantsassis- and walkacross thestore andpickfrom lotsof shop forbeauty. Shelikes tocurateherown look, Dillon. “She’s somebody who absolutely loves to enthusiast,” said thebeauty thatwesegment call Weand services. are very focusedona[consumer] and theway we products thinkaboutcategories, decision-making. the store —atthecenterofUlta’s associates quently refers toputtingthecustomers—and one place.” It’sservices. in thenotionofallthingsbeauty We’ve got pricepointsand allthesecategories, nobody doeswhat we doonthescale it. “We are always going tohave competition,but where she shops andwhat she wants,” saidDillon. she visited Bare Escentuals headquarters inSan Bareshe headquarters visited Escentuals He thatshortly recalled aftershe arrived atUlta, aboutthebusiness. Inc. —hasanatural curiosity marketing postsatMcDonald’s Corp. andPepsiCo wasceoatU.S.prior toUlta andheld Cellular He addedthatDillon—whopassion fortheguest.” background she andmostimportantly hasagreat Shehasa strongvision. brandandmarketing ceo SimonCowell. “[Mary’s] brought astrategic saidBare discussions,” Escentuals strategic table, or wedding. centered around key moments,suchasabirthday kits born outofthatcollaborationincludelifestyle management orCRM.Someoftheinitiatives data, consumer,the Ulta usingitscustomerrelationship retailer tocreate anumber ofexclusives tailored to Bare hascollaboratedwiththe Escentuals Dillon’s Ulta’s focusonamplifying focusonthe “It’s acompetitive marketplace andthemore lookingtoexclusivesDillon alsois toattract really guestinsightis driving“The ourmodel aboutstrategy,When speaking Dillonfre- “It feelslike we are having more round- ofthese

hours inanother 60stores thisyear. and isplanningto implementadditional impact of addingmore laborhours, the country. It’s continuingto study the hours in60stores across models withincreased Ulta useddifferent labor During thethird quarter, Help wanted a great opportunity that is forus.”■ thatis a great opportunity guests have triedour salon,you imaginewhat can at Ulta. card membershaveits loyalty thesalon visited thatonlygleaned from 7percent is thedata of she getsfor ourguest, more personalized offers.” you how understand to grow your brand.’ And ner withourvendors andsay, ‘How we help can tousegood, keenability consumer insightstopart- plicity,” we saidDillon.“Butbehindthat, have the more pointsyou get, andourguestslove thatsim- consumers. betterexplainto joinsotheycan thebenefitsto bers tooneplatformandinvited itssalesassociates The retailer recently migratedallprogram mem- Rewards itsUltamate includes program. loyalty Oliver Chen. done before saidCowen [atUlta],” andCo. analyst It’stional basis. which hasn’t storytelling, been and buy. click site. Alongsideeachvideo, customerscan and now features “haul Ulta videos”onitsWeb place” across TV, radioanddigital. print, itspositioningof“Allnicate inone thingsbeauty toworkjoined Ulta withheroncemore. pair alsoworked together atPepsiCo., andKimbell before she walkedopportunity inthedoor. The enough way.” tell, butwe hadn’t been brand,” saidKimbell.“We have agreat to story hadn’t invested Beauty enoughinbuildingtheUlta year.this chief merchandising andmarketing officerearlier in February 2014 andthenexpanded role his to league atU.S. —aschiefmarketing Cellular officer asaplayful designedtopositionUlta is escape. lastSeptember. campaign Yourself” Lose Theeffort price. To testingthe“Go Ahead, thatend,itbegan sage and ratherthanasingularfocusonproduct new markets. Ads now have amore emotionalmes- marketing approach, particularly asitexpands into It’s way.” thinkinginamore visionary that? amplify for Bare Ulta andhow Escentuals can It’shas kindofshifted atUlta. asking what’s next saidCowell. for Ulta, inform hervision “Something tory. ofmeetingstohelp Shethenusedthesetypes teamashetookherthroughhis thecompany’s his- andspenttheentire dayFrancisco withCowell and David Kimbell Simon Cowell “So now thatwe know only 7percent ofour findings Dillon saidoneofthemostsurprising way“The itworks themore is you spend,the ofUlta’sPart stepped-up marketing effort “She wantstoappeal tocustomersonanemo- Its alsostepped upitsoutreach tobloggers, tocommu- hassincedialedup its efforts Ulta Kimbell saidDilloncouldseethemarketing hasdoneawhole lotofthingswell,“Ulta butit She recruited David Kimbell —aformercol- Another key area Ulta’s offocusforDillonis The “Go Ahead, Lose Yourself” campaign. telling that story inabig telling thatstory

Illustration by Carlos Monteiro; Cowell photo by Nancy Rothstein Photography M Illustration by had a kind of opulence and glamour and became had akindofopulence andglamourbecame and goldpython soit chainandablacksilktassel, something thatevoked the senseofabag,with withthepackaging. “Iwanted sonal talisman” — somethingabitmore unconventional.” sense ofglamour, glamour ratherthanfirst-degree withanoffhanded,irreverent whichtell stories, is which very much is ofwho part Iamandhow we And Ihadtotellthatina sure andluxury, because that’s is. what decadence next indulgence to tellwasoneofthis story ofplea- weighs inandplayseverything Ifeltlike the apart. where Iwasat aesthetically,” saidJacobs. “For me, to go intermsofthethingswe were producing and clothes, thedirection inwhich I’d like my company bringonthebling. decision: His ing which latest totake direction fragrancein. his ready-to-wear while decid- color cosmetics andhis approach,holistic examining themoodsinhis before.” ultimateshowgirl? (His Cher.) that are more interesting tomethantheyever were newest girl.his “It’s allthetrappings ofthatext beads orthefeatherssequins,” saidJacobs of I like thethingsthatsymbolizeher—whether it’s the fragrance licensee.) vice president ofglobalmarketing atCoty, Jacobs’ it’s always Singer, aboutthegirl,” saidLori group thesexy,certainly one.(“For sophisticated Marc, most thequirky is is oneandDecadence Lola thesweet is girlpersonality: Daisy next door; ofthewholepart world ofdesign.” [in2001]now justfeelslikeabstract what Idoand future. pastandhis reflecting onhis in2013, withSephorathatbegan partnership he’s in2003 thatbegan andacolorcosmetics Coty in 2001.Now, with afterafragrancepartnership division ofLVMH Moët Vuitton Hennessy Louis DesignerFragrances the now-defunct American designer, who launched firstfragrancewith his ing around onthefloorinutterabandon. the adfeatures abarely clothedAdriana Limaroll- (don’t Inc.execs ask aboutthecostofgoods), Coty By By more. is more prove to out thedesigneris Decadence, With newscent, his Statement Making a Marc’s Jacobs alsofeltstrongly aboutcreating a“per- “I thoughtaboutwhere we were going with JacobsIn developing went Decadence, fora “I like theideaofthatextrovert, thatshow-off, and eachofJacobs’ fragranceshasadistinct In fact, “It’s felt ride,”Jacobs said.“What beenacrazy It’s beenquite journey forthefashion thebeauty JULIE NAUGHTON NIGEL BUCHANAN emerald-green handbag emerald-green the bottletoresemble an Decadence. newfragrance to namehis gent —that’s why hechose arc feelingindul- Jacobs is In additiontodesigning way thatwasirreverent, rovert rovert but there’s charm andyouthfulness alsothis to “You feelhersex appeal can from amileaway, Lima inabarely there Marc Jacobs slipdress. body lotionanda$50bathgel willalsobesold. for $70, 1.7 oz. for$95 and3.4 oz. for$120. A$52 amber, vetiver andpapyrus woods. andadrydownjasmine sambacandorris, ofliquid andsaffron; ofBulgarianrose,plum, iris aheart atFirmenich,hastopnotesofItalian Buzantian ofdesire,” hesaid. an object MARC JACOBS ” is. decadence because that’s what pleasure andluxury, indulgenceof this of tostory tell wasone “I feltlike thenext Advertising, shot by Steven features Meisel, Eaux deparfum inthree sizeswillbesold—1oz. which JacobsThe scent, developed withAnnie

like a secondlinewithdifferent ■ aesthetic.” Marc byit became Marc Jacobs. Buttoday, itfeels it couldn’t bereproduced oreditorializedthatway, the Jacobs blacked Andthen,for reasons that out. Itwasthesamelabel with that inthebeginning. Marcarate lines. by Marc Jacobs wasnever called not thatitwon’t itjustwon’t exist, sep- exist astwo line intothemainline,allundersame label.It’s we incorporatethat “What willdois photograph. regularJacobs label,butthatitwashard inhis to he originallybridge didhis lineby inkingoutthe by Marc Jacobs ready-to-wear line,explaining that according tosources. punch, haseroded high-end out distribution his penchantforrollingfragrance, althoughCoty’s viewedis ashaving apowerful nameforselling 2,000 doorsintheU.S. Amongretailers, Jacobs in itsfirstyear oncounter. Itwillbesoldinabout adence coulddo$25millionatretail intheU.S. sources sales,industry estimatedthat Dec- jected commercial willmake itsdebutinlateSeptember. magazines,andadigital andlifestyle beauty her,” saidthedesigner. “There’s init.” novulgarity Jacobs also discussed the elimination of his Marc theeliminationofhis Jacobs alsodiscussed While allinvolved declinedcomment onpro- fashion, runninginOctober Print willbegin WWD.COM

JUNE 2015, No. 1

21 “Light and shade, white flowers and The Smell Test: dark notes: an interesting duet but its execution needs a frisson of excitement BeautyBriefs “A pretty little fragrance. Agenda to make it dance on the skin.” Serge Lutens It is very single-noted. Not very long lasting; BEHATI PRINSLOO Juicy’s Juice

Beauty it is more like a body La Religieuse OBehati Prinsloo may be an spray than a perfume.” angel (of the Victoria’s Secret OIn an effort to identify and variety, that is) but she’s got a devil-may-care vibe going spotlight excellence in perfumery, on in advertising for Juicy WWD’s world-class panel of “A classic Couture’s new fragrance, modernized, I Am Juicy Couture, which experts reviews promising new HISPANIC APPEAL elegant and niche. Elizabeth Arden will launch fragrances as they come onto the Y Más in July. It reveals its true “I love what this perfume When CVS Health market. This week La Religieuse by nature on skin.” O stands for — the message to acquired Navarro Discount girls is to be independent, to Serge Lutens is being examined. Pharmacy last year, some be reckless and glamorous industry observers worried By PETE BORN and not apologetic,” Prinsloo whether the culture that said. The ads feature the This is a blind test: Panelists linked the Miami-based chain “Good top notes, bare Caffeine Fix model making her own form are given vials of unidentified to Hispanic consumers drydown. For as long as it lasts, of perfume by crushing fresh scent to judge impartially. Each would disappear. The it’s a skillful but ultimately blooms in her hands. “It’s of them gives a score ranging OAussie-based beauty brand Frank company looked to put those from 1 (forgettable) to 10 (unfor- directionless medley.” about being individual and fears to rest with the recent gettable) and the numbers are Body, a caffeine-infused bath and body nonconforming, not being opening of CVS Pharmacy computed into a final grade. The afraid of who you are.” line, is entering skin care. y Más. CVS rebranded 12 judges, led by chairman Michael It’s also given Prinsloo stores in South Florida with a Edwards, also make critiques The assortment, which launched on ideas for future projects: “I’ve new logo, a bilingual staff and which are unattributed. Just as seen what goes into making May 30, consists of three stockkeeping signage. the identity of the product is a fragrance and finding what kept secret from the judges to Beauty plays a major units: a facial cleanser, scrub and you love, so it would be a guard against bias, the panel- role in the look with a huge really fun project to one day ists’ personal opinions are not moisturizer priced from $19.95 to $21.95. fragrance counter stocked do my own scent.” revealed to encourage candor. with upscale scents and “Our primary focus is to continue What would it smell The most promising scents are serviced by beauty advisers. like? Prinsloo pulls a face. picked for judging and WWD distributing our products online, as that “The ‘y más’ signifies the buys the products at retail, like “Rebels!” she said. availability of more products any other consumer. is where we connect most effectively — JULIE NAUGHTON and services that are with our core customer,” noted Erika important to the Hispanic Geraerts, cofounder of Frank Body. “As consumer and an overall shopping environment that is Take Note “Pleasant — apart we continue to expand our portfolio more tailored to the Hispanic from a few sharp and offline presence, we plan to explore consumer,” said Gabriel edges — but there is Navarro, chief of Hispanic OWith Father’s Day around the corner and men’s fragrances not much to grab the “Rich, sexy, retail distribution in key markets.” Consumer Growth at CVS on the rise, it’s a good bet that the top five scents could be imagination.” — JAYME CYK Pharmacy. alluring.” Miami, which is Navarro’s prime prospects for gifting. According to The NPD Group, stronghold, is the first area men’s prestige fragrance sales reached $185.7 million and to get the new look, but manufacturers said the grew 6 percent in dollar sales in the first quarter of 2015 “The image this creates in my mind is of backstage at the concept will roll out soon to compared with the first quarter of 2014. — J.C. theater, before the show: actresses wielding powder puffs more U.S. markets. applying their makeup, polishing their nails to a sleek — FAYE BROOKMAN crimson veneer — while a wilting bouquet of jasmine left over from last night’s accolades droops in the corner.” Top Five Men’s Scents Q1 2015, based on dollar sales “Like a diva a few years beyond her prime, this “This fragrance is big, spicy floral still knows “Strong and intoxicating how to steal a scene. Its extremely déjà vu, with no rich, heady and familiar floralcy, falling into an quality thumbs its nose at old lady soapy American special twist on its own.” modernity or trends.” fragrance. Not modern at all.”

1. Bleu de Chanel 2. Armani Acqua Di 3. L’Homme Yves 4. Ralph Lauren 5. Gucci Guilty On Display Gio Pour Homme Saint Laurent Polo Red Pour Homme OAfter a short hiatus, Elements Showcase is SOURCE: THE NPD GROUP INC. Esteemed back and collaborating 5.5 D.S. & DURGA bottle sells for $150, and is with Capsule Trade Show, a Avg Score available from El Cosmico, fashion and lifestyle event of out of 10 Judges Scent in Tent PARALLEL LIVES dsanddurga.com and at directional indie designers OBrooklyn indie scent line select retailers. and beauty brands. Michael Edwards Jean-Claude Delville Victoria Frolova Nathalie Pichard Luca Turin THE VERDICT: This is a big floral that knows “One of my fondest memories Author of "Fragrances of the Senior perfumer at Drom. Fragrance industry analyst and Owner of training and evaluation Biophysicist and perfume how to make an entrance, but lacks staying D.S. & Durga is pitching a tent, To unveil the collaboration, The exhibitions will take World" and "Perfume Legends." Bois de Jasmin editor. agency Topnotes. critic for arabia.style.com. power and ability to grip the imagination. literally. It erected the shelter David Seth Moltz, cofounder place during all of Capsule’s is sitting in my kitchen to launch its latest fragrance of D.S. & Durga, recently domestic shows: New York with El Cosmico, an upscale performed two perfumed Women’s in September, New making lotion and watching campground in West Texas sets on-site in one of El York Men’s in January and art town Marfa, that offers Cosmico’s teepees with his Las Vegas in February. ‘Breaking Bad.’ Walt was trailers, tents, teepees and band Copal Opal. Using a Jeffrey Lawson, cofounder making meth and I was yurts to adventurers. pedal-driven custom-built of Elements, noted, “This allows El Cosmico x D.S. & Durga floor fan, Moltz sent out a us to maximize the number of Paul Austin Karen Dubin Christophe Laudamiel Chantal Roos Kevin Verspoor How would you rate the fragrance? Visit making lotion.” Ceo of sensory storytelling Founder and ceo Master perfurmer Cocreator of Founder of WWD.com/beauty-industry-news to vote. has desert-inspired notes mix of olfactive accords to qualified buyers and visitors agency Austin Advisory Group. of Sniffapalooza. at DreamAir. Roos & Roos Co. PerfumeKev LLC. of pepper tree, creosote accompany the sounds. we can offer our exhibitors.” Nicholas Karnaze on creating his first product for

Illustrations by Kate Copeland Kate by Illustrations and pinyon pine. The 50-ml. — SUSAN STONE — J.C. his niche men’s grooming line, Stubble & ’Stache

22 JUNE 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM Photograph by GEORGE CHINSEE Styling by RACHEL STICKLEY WWD.COM JUNE 2015, No. 1 23 EDITED BY ARTHUR ZACZKIEWICZ among the two lines, and by experienced, high-powered executives are a big many directions before they’re 2013 the two women’s lines expense. “The Yves Saint Laurent-Pierre Bergé successful in any one,” said a Markets were merged into one, taking model is very rare,” said one source. “It’s a busi- veteran fashion executive. Agenda the name, Band of Outsiders. ness. You’ve got to be involved in all business There are some who felt that In 2009, Sternberg introduced aspects.” the whole traditional men’s a line of polo shirts under the Gary Wassner, ceo of Hilldun Corp. — which preppy trend got too overex- Spike Jonze, label, “This is not a polo shirt,” factors Band of Outsiders — as well as chairman posed and became accessible at While the designer wasn’t elaborating, industry @bandofoutsiders which developed into a full line of Interluxe, said, “He [Sternberg] spent 10 years more affordable price points. J. sources said he had been in discussions with inves- of casual men’s clothing. building a great brand and it had tremendous Crew, for example, was working tors over the last few months, but a deal never Sternberg had a knack for collaborations and brand awareness and very loyal customers.” Was- in that aesthetic for a fraction materialized. Even worse, Sternberg apparently generating publicity for his stunts. Before launch- sner noted that Sternberg “never built a hierarchy of the cost. While Sternberg had substantial orders for fall, and it was expected ing Band of Outsiders, he had a career in the at the top of the company.” became known for his playful FIN to be a big season for him. entertainment industry, working as a talent agent “He had no filter. He was great in design, sales, twists on preppy classics, some But it appears he simply ran out of money. at Creative Agents Agency. At the start of his men’s merchandising; I think he did everything right for observers felt he may have Jason Well-known for his witty take on preppy with wear business, he became a media darling and the the brand side. He never found the right partner become typecast in that genre. Schwartzman, an edge, Sternberg, 40, developed a cult following poster child for California cool. He also signed col- on the business side. He had investors who were “There’s always room for an Michelle Williams, for Band of Outsiders, which he launched in 2004 laborations with brands such as Sperry Top-Sider, intelligent but not actively involved in the day-to- independent when they find a @bandofoutsiders with two products, slim-fitting men’s shirts and Olympia Le-Tan, Starbucks and Manolo Blahnik. day operations. I think he just got tired after 11 white space in the market,” said Robert Burke, ceo super-skinny neckties. Eventually, he expanded He did a collaboration with Lego and Opening years. He was worn out,” Wassner said. Asked if he of Robert Burke Associates. “What he did initially into full men’s and women’s apparel and acces- Ceremony in L.A., where he built an in-store shop ran out of money, he said, “It seems so. It was too was really distinctive. The market evolved and sories collections. In addition to a freestanding entirely out of Legos. A cookie fanatic, he also had difficult to keep going without the proper partner.” the trend is much more toward European-based store in Tokyo, the designer operated a store at an ongoing partnership with Christina Tosi of the Yet Wassner believes there’s a lot of value in the designer men’s wear, as opposed to traditional 70 Wooster Street in New York, which is having a Momofuku Milk Bar to create custom cookies for intellectual property. “It’s a great brand name with preppy or updated preppy.” sale and is expected to close at his runway shows. a very clear point of view.” According to retailers, the product was well- the end of the month. Although he didn’t advertise in mainstream Some questioned whether Sternberg made, delivered on time, had a loyal In 2007, Sternberg was one media, he was well-known for his look books, could even be called a young brand any- following and good sell-throughs. of 10 finalists for the Council of which he would photograph with a Polaroid cam- more. For the first three years, he was the Kay Lee, owner of the Otte boutiques Fashion Designers of America/ era. Each season he shot a different celebrity such “new guy” and “everybody loves the new in New York, said she was shocked when Vogue Fashion Fund award, as Frank Ocean, Josh Brolin, Amy Adams, Kirsten guy.” Then years four, five and six, it gets the brand called to cancel its fall delivery. and in 2008 he received the Dunst and Marisa Tomei. Further, he was a big real, and hopefully by the time you’re 11 “We order a lot every season. I spend CFDA’s Swarovski Award for Los Angeles, believer in social media to reach a mass audience years old, you’ve experienced the up and about $20,000 and we have 80 percent new men’s wear talent. In 2009, @bandofoutsiders and used it frequently. down cycles. “The business may not be Devendra Banhart, sell-through. I always thought they were he received the CFDA’s Mens- For example, in 2012, he live-streamed his on fire, but you’re approaching stand- @bandofoutsiders doing well, and our salesperson told wear Designer of the Year award, sharing the men’s wear collection on one model in a Parisian ing on your own feet,” said an industry me they had gotten an investor to help accolade with Calvin Klein’s Italo Zucchelli. shop window for 60 hours straight, making it the source in the designer community. open the store, they were growing and opening Despite his numerous awards, he still struggled “Longest Show Ever.” Among the difficulties: competing against the new accounts.” financially. “He won two CFDA awards. If that’s not Now well into the company’s 11th year, expec- big conglomerates such as LVMH Moët Hennessy “It’s hard to keep a clear head and not follow sobering, you can achieve the highest level and tations were much higher that the designer would Louis Vuitton and Kering, and well-financed every trend, but Band of Outsiders had a point of still have challenges. It’s rattling to everybody,” have started to hit his commercial stride. Among brands such as Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Burb- view. In a day and age when there is comfort and said one source. men’s brands that launched at similar times were erry and Coach. In the average store, 75 percent repeat business in knowing what you are looking “This should never have happened,” said Julie Thom Browne and Duckie Brown (2001), Rag & of brands are run as in-store shops. It leaves very at, they had it. Very few people can make that Gilhart, who was among the first to buy the brand Bone (2002), Patrik Ervell (2005) and Michael Bas- little open-to-buy for the independents. And even breakthrough,” said Elyse Walker, who sells the when she was senior vice president and fashion tian (2006). While Rag & Bone has sky- though he might have been generating line in her namesake store and on her e-commerce director at Barneys New York. “Scott has it all rocketed since receiving an investment about $15 million in sales, the designer site Forward by Elyse Walker. — he’s a favored designer with a significant busi- from Andrew Rosen, Brown, Ervell and source pointed out, “The money goes But while the brand is sold in top boutiques ness, no one can deny he owns that short jacket Bastian haven’t grown at the same rate. fast, you’re doing four shows a year, in 30 countries, as well as Barneys, Saks Fifth and great shirt, he has a store. He’s done all the Sources pointed out that Sternberg’s you have press offices to support. It’s Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, Nordstrom and things that are right. I’m sure if you dig super deep expenses exceeded his volume. He was remarkable how fast it can go. It’s hard Opening Ceremony it hadn’t reached the critical you’ll find mistakes as with any business, but he’s given advice to expand and build and had to keep a brand floating. There’s no glory mass needed to propel it past the $15 million mark. substantial enough to be able to weather those.” begun that, but his sales couldn’t keep up Frank Ocean, in supporting something that’s hemor- “Band was probably positioned too high in In Hollywood, where the brand was embraced with the growth. @bandofoutsiders rhaging money.” terms of the average price point to help them by Sternberg’s celebrity friends such as Rashida “We really don’t know exactly what Industry sources point to the fact that build scale,” said Janki Lalani Gandhi, managing Jones, Aziz Ansari and Adam Scott, stylists too the story is yet,” said Michael Bastian, a friend the business today has changed and become so director of investment firm The Sage Group. Its played a role in keeping it in the forefront. “It’s and fellow men’s wear designer. “It’s still really complex. A brand can no longer exclusively be women’s offering in Nordstrom, for example, Band of Outsiders heartbreaking,” said longtime men’s wear stylist upsetting. The American men’s wear world is very a wholesaler. Small companies find themselves ranged from $245 to $1,595. For men, a signature Jeanne Yang, who recalls buying the first Band of small and we’re all friends. It could honestly be overextended and it’s hard for them to compete unconstructed jacket retailed for $995 and a tai- Outsiders skinny ties in Sternberg’s apartment 11 any independent luxury brand.” on so many different levels. They need to have lored blazer cost $1,995. years ago. “If this guy with immense creativity Numerous sources expressed surprise at Band’s their own stores and be competitive in the digital Of course, hindsight is everything, noted Gil- Stops the Music and business savvy can’t do it, what does that say turn of events, as it appeared Sternberg was area. It’s all expensive and complicated, and you hart. “Let’s look back on this for him and for others about the rest of the [businesses]? I think they headed in the right direction. Some noted that he need deep-pocketed investors. It’s imperative for because we’d hate for this to be a stream of things Finding it tough to be independent, the buzzy need to change or do something to support the didn’t have a chief executive officer and probably a designer brand to stay focused, and not diverge to come.” As for Sternberg’s prospects, she said, small business model. How do you compete with could have used one to manage the business side. too soon, too fast. “If I was hiring creative talent, I’d be talking to him L.A. contemporary men’s and women’s brand the behemoth companies now?” But sometimes that can trip up a brand because “These companies get themselves spread in too this second.” ■ Said Gilhart, “It’s a question for mid- calls it quits. size businesses — after they grow to a 2004: Band of Outsiders’ Scorecard Scott Sternberg 2014: By LISA LOCKWOOD and MARCY MEDINA certain point and start needing stores, launches Band of 2008: 2009: 2013: Band of Outsiders then what? It’s a really big issue for our Outsiders as a line of Sternberg begins Sternberg wins 2010: Girl and Boy merge unveils first Stateside industry. We spend a lot of time support- men’s button-down collaborating with Swarovski Award Brand launches Girl as a into Band of Outsiders store at 70 Wooster eing an independent designer in Van Assche decided to shelve his 10-year ing young designers but where is support shirts and ties. Sperry Top-Sider. for Menswear. counterpart to Boy. label for women. Street in New York. today’s retail environment can old signature label to focus on his role as Amy Adams, for the midsize people at a time when be brutal, and Scott Sternberg, creative head of Dior Homme. @bandofoutsiders they critically need it?” founder and designer of Band of “Times are tough for independent Band of Outsiders had been busy Outsiders, is the latest casualty. labels,” said Van Assche, citing the challenging expanding on several fronts. In 2007, Sternberg 2007: 2009: 2010: 2011: 2013: 2015: Sternberg starts Sternberg ties Band of Outsiders Band of Outsiders Company ceases Last week, the contemporary market conditions for small-scale fashion brands. launched a women’s wear offshoot called Boy by Company introduces B collaboration with for CFDA’s Menswear shows spring 2012 men’s opens Tokyo store with production of L.A.-based company laid off much Sternberg was said to be distraught at the recent Band of Outsiders, maintaining the same sartorial first women’s wear Manolo Blahnik creating Designer of the Year wear collection Asian partner. fall collections. brand, Boy by Band of of its staff and confirmed that it won’t be fulfilling turn of events, and told WWD last week, “Nobody wit of his men’s wear pieces. A less expensive women’s shoes for with Calvin Klein’s Italo and resort 2012 women’s Outsiders, inspired by orders for the fall season. knows anything at this point but me, and I’ve been line called Girl launched in 2010 as a counterpart his runway shows and Zucchelli. wear collection the men’s wear line.

The same week Paris men’s wear designer Kris advised not to comment at this time.” to Boy. There might have been some confusion Eichner Steve by Photograph presentations. at Pitti Uomo.

24 JUNE 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM JUNE 2015, No. 1 25 26

JUNE 2015, No. 1 MarketsAgenda I converted gastank’s ceiling.Inattendance were Jumbotron video screen wassuspendedfrom the erlike seating. audiencethe 800-strong looked onfrom bleach- 2015 offeringswalked onalarge footballfield,as To completetheSuperBowl atmosphere, alarge In anoldgasometer, modelswearing fall his By By Designer takes to thefieldwithMainlandflagship.

WWD.COM HANNAH GARDNER nies andevents. complex given over todesign compa- 751the city’s an oldindustrial D-Park, recent football-themedrunway show in the 64-year-old his designerre-created market. making anoffensive play fortheChina parlance, Tommyn sporting Hilfiger is That’s thenews from where Beijing, the backboneof show lastweek. Hilfiger Tailored customers. toChinese and women’s andTommy linesHilfiger Collection offerthepremiumthat will,inanotherfirst, men’s Tommy Hilfiger flagship ontheMainland —astore fastest growing markets,” hetoldWWD. thelabel’s inthis, importance 30thyear. show tothemarket’s toChinawasatestament tobringthehugeder saidthedecision NewYork Olivia Palermo. TV’s Ziyi andDengChao reality Zhang actors The English andChinese“playbook”The English handed It wasthesevarsity The event alsomarked theopening ofthefirst “We believe inChinabigtime.It’s one ofour The brand’s chiefexecutive officerDanielGrie- Grieder and Hilfiger Tommy Daniel -inspired looksthatformed were stillwearing Maosuitsandriding bicycles…. players. ofChineseacrobats dressedconsisted asfootball a nodtothehostcity, thehalftimeperformance a mixture ofWestern andChinesemodels,in a vibrantgameday Thelooks were spirit. worn by ofthelateSixties andSeventiesfusing styles with inspired Love by AliMacGrawAmerican Story” — as“an thefallcollections out toguestsdescribed “When I first came to China, 20 years toChina,20 ago Ifirstcame “When people Photographs by SHANNON FAGAN

Illustration by Carlos Monteiro; Martinez photo by Najlah Feanny/Corbis has heard of.”■ million peoplein China thatnooneintheWest “therepointed out, are of5millionor10 cities out there AsHilfiger justwaitingtobetapped. tion program alsomean there awhole market is such ashis. — Hilfiger recognizes thatit French nolonger lookasFrench, for example has dest on everything.” with fashion, music andfilm.Theyare up-to-date now,” know Hilfiger what’s said.“They going on consumerslovenoted thatChinese color. TheNewYork-basedsizing right. designeralso the brand’s successinChinatogetting like details that it’s cool,”hesaid. or surfinginMalibu. designs conjurehis upimages ofskiing inAspen all-American designs.Hilfiger because thinksitis nese customersseemtorespond toHilfiger’s and China—someofwhich lingers today —Chi- college IDcards. framesthatlookedphotos intodigital like U.S. to useanapp thatallowed their peopletoinsert ontheaccounttoshowthe designer netizenshow messages toChinesefansonWeibo. mediasending himself tooktoChinesesocial added. thenewnormal,”Grieder is Digital Tommy Hilfiger affordable luxury.” amiddleclassthatwants is riding bicycles….Now there still wearing Maosuitsand 20 years ago peoplewere to China, Ifirstcame “When and overdyed rugs,butthescreens continue. more traditionalwithwhite walls,leathersofas Tommy’s latestadvertising campaigns. decorated withhighresolution screens showing in theprestigious facade In88mall,ithasa60-foot on thebusyWangfujingLocated shopping street brand awareness even ifpeopledon’t stepinside. many growth opportunities here,” Griedersaid. land flagship inShanghai. alsolookingtoopenasecondMain- Tmall anditis shop onAlibaba’s platform business-to-consumer generate ofmore sales than$222million. are of322 atotal which outletsacross 98cities, a jointventure partner. withalocal Today there through licenseesin2002, itsetup and in2010 of saleannually over thenext fewyears. 2010 —planstoadd5070 newChinesepoints been owned by NewYork-based PVHCorp. since event. luxury,” Tommy Hilfiger toldWWDbefore the Now there amiddleclassthat wantsaffordable is Chinese economicgrowth andarapidurbaniza- because it globalization While hemournsthis “Young peopleinstreets lookvery Western Aside from thedesignaesthetic,heattributes like casu thatitis “They theU.S. between animosity Despite ahistoric Later, ChinesemodelQinShupei alsojoined To awareness raise ofthenewstore, Hilfiger whole company“The going is more digital. shop,Inside the5,380-square-foot thedecoris designedtoboost The newstore is inBeijing “We are responding todemand.There are so summer,This thebrandplanstolaunch adigital The brandfirstentered theChinesemarket To meetthatdemand,thebrand—which has royed charmingnationaldifferences —the

al, that it is aspirational, al, thatitis is greatis forbrands generate atleast six efficiency. tools relating to energy financial management helping retailers implement is for aproject aimedat ofDepartment Energy recent grant from theU.S. Leaders Association’s other assets. Theanalysts worth of stocks, bondsand tively manage$459billion intheU.S.”particularly for higher-risk exposures, — andhave “less appetite on theirholdingsof equities tors polledare pullingback Merrill Lynch saidtheinves- managers, Bankof America monthly survey of fund stocks. According to its to begoingsouronU.S. O Green Grant SUSTAINABILITY O Risky Business EQUITY MARKET Market  RILA’s project will The respondents collec- The Retail Industry Global investors appear things thatare valued atabout $3billion: But what’s $3billion? Just anumber? Here are nine the company lost$3billioninmarket capitalization. lackluster itsshares outlook, plunged andovernight same-store salesinthefirstquarter andoffered a O BY THENUMBERS Dr. Dre’s Beatsmusic  The Brooklyn Nets After After 32 F/A-18 Hornet basketball team and electronics figher jets Michael Kors necessary. external financingwhere funds andleverage establish energy innovation project piloting processes, project value, improve team awareness of energy cesses, improve finance project proposal pro- efficiency budgets, improve establish dedicated energy illustrate how retailers can implementation modelsto financial management with 59percent expecting relatively flatfrom April, omy, thereadings were outlook ontheecon- to astrong U.S. dollar. which are boomingthanks switch to European stocks, in thepast few weeks: a market hasexperienced the trend mirrors whatthe cant, theanalysts said, and reading. Thedrop issignifi- centage points from April’s this isdown seven per- overweight equities,” but of thosepolled “remain at thebanksaid47percent Legalized marijuana’s Regarding respondents’ Annual maintenance Oprah Winfrey’s net costs allof South annual revenues Carolina’s roads Holdings Inc.reported soft C S a worth out r o li h n a Briefs market capitalization Michael Kors does in The Gross Domestic Shake Shack’s total aims to drive energy and ment project withDOE across thecountry. efficiency in buildings ment to increase energy DOE’s $6millioninvest- of eightrecipients of the trade association, was one amajorretailRILA, industry Management Program. nization’s Retail Energy grant theorga- supports currency plays.” this remains biasedtoward pean stocks for now, but are keeping faith withEuro- at thebank, said “investors European strategy equity months.” trends over thenext 12 remaining below historical growth andinflation of respondents seeboth a little. Seventy percent rate profitability have fallen though forecasts of corpo- “strengthen thisyear, the globaleconomy to —ARTHUR ZACZKIEWICZ Product of Guyana RILA’s energy manage- The three-year, $750,000 James Barty, headof annual sales About what Guyana

—ARTHUR FRIEDMAN Schneider Electric. Institute of Technology and Fund, theMassachusetts the Environmental Defense Transformation, Deloitte, The Institute for Market oped inpartnership with project proposal was devel- efficiency projects. The to secure financingfor energy managers’ ability retail sector by improving carbon reduction inthe ter conference call. & Fitch, duringthefirst-quar- tive chairman, Abercrombie C.Arthur Martinez forward.” moving improvement and lasting to meaningful year, andlead business this our stabilize help us changes will that the expecting but we are ed overnight, accomplish- won’t be turnaround “Our QUOTED WWD.COM

JUNE 2015, No. 1 , execu-

27 EDITED BY JEAN E. PALMIERI AND ALEX BADIA 4 New Entrants: Agenda The shirt SLIM FIT The dress shirt silhouette continues category is to shrink as customers seek tailored 2 shirts with a closer fit. bustling with new brands that ATHLETIC FIT are homing in on Shoppers expect activewear qualities such specific details as stretch fabric — which accommodates athletic frames — and moisture-wicking and solutions. features that prevent sweating.

Stantt For Stantt, technology is the tailor. The online shirt brand has created an algo- rithm that allows shoppers to find their custom size based on three measure- ments. The brand’s $98 shirts are meant to feel 3 5 made-to-measure. 1 COLLAR MADE-TO-MEASURE Brands are creating collars that The customized shirt business is CHAMBRAY maintain their shape without ties and growing and new brands are offering As brands bring a refined touch to this are infusing them with stretch so they this service at affordable prices while casual fabric, customers are responding keep their structure. established players are relaunching and wearing this popular item to work and their custom programs. on the weekend.

Untuckit and you have good reason for men to buy into Brothers launched a new natural stretch cotton Bloomingdale’s and Stanley Korshak and retails Untuckit wants to elimi- dressing up with a dress shirt, tie or not,” said fabric that’s not chemically treated in its new MX2 for $125. nate the messy look that Marshal Cohen, NPD’s chief industry analyst. collection of tailored shirts. Mizzen+Main is one of the many brands that happens when men wear Dana Dean, the vice president of sales at Gitman The cousin of the athletic shirt is the perfor- have recently entered the dress shirt category. Oth- their shirts untucked. This Brothers, said customers are often choosing lux- mance shirt, which typically includes stretch along ers include J.Hilburn, which started in 2007, and brand’s solution is a $78- Reinventing ury fabrics. “Our Elite collection has seen a real with moisture-wicking qualities and a noniron fab- Ledbury, which started in 2009. Both are offering $98 shirt that falls halfway increase in the last few seasons as sometimes the ric. Previously these shirts have been chemically dress shirts that are either custom or customlike between the belt and the bottom of the zipper and only edge you have as a vendor or retailer is the treated and stiff, but textile innovation has created at an affordable price point. features a curved hemline. inclusive better offerings that you can’t just get better-quality technical fabrics that feel expensive. “J.Hilburn was created to address a need that anywhere,” Dean said. Sarah Holland, a spokeswoman from J.C. Penney, mass shirt brands aren’t able to service because of Shoppers are also gravitating toward chambray, which sells a Stafford travel performance super- scale and level of personal service,” said Kristen The Shirt according to Dean. Although it’s a casual fabric, shirt for $40, said men expect these performance Celko, chief marketing officer, who said shirt sales Newness and variety are driving Dean said men are wearing it to work under a navy features to be built into their shirts no matter what during May were up by approximately 20 percent. he men’s dress shirt business is business in the growing men’s suit with a knit tie. The Gitman Brothers’ authentic size they are. “He wants a shirt that is high-quality, The brand has stylists throughout the U.S. who mea- growing by leaps and bounds. dress shirt category and giving work chambray shirt, which retails around $150, requires minimal care and travels well,” Holland sure males. Shoppers then use those measurements Traditional shirtmakers are features a high profile collar that keeps its shape said. Sirkin added that PVH’s best-selling dress to purchase a custom shirt online for around $139. expanding their assortments guys a reason to shop. with or without a tie. shirt brand is the Calvin Klein Steel Plus line, which Paul Trible, the cofounder of Ledbury, is to include a multitude of By ARIA HUGHES PVH is focusing on collars that maintain their retails for $75 and features noniron fabric. aiming to provide a bridge between the fit of a styles and fits, while newer structure and recently partnered with Talon, a On the higher end of the performance dress custom-made shirt and the convenience of rtw. brands are carving out a space supplier of stretch technology products. PVH will shirt category is newer brand Mizzen+Main, The shirts, which are available on Ledbury’s Mister French for themselves with custom Jonathan Heilbron, chief executive officer of use Talon’s proprietary TekFit stretch technology which launched in 2012 and is best known for e-commerce site and will be stocked at Nordstrom Brothers Mike and Matt services. Thomas Pink, has noticed an uptick in sales for on Van Heusen shirt collars starting later this its Made in the U.S. shirts that include four-way this July, retail from $145 to $165 and make up 80 French, founders of new The male customer’s increased interest in printed dress shirts. Heilbron said shoppers are year. The technology helps the collars stretch and stretch, moisture wicking and noniron fabric. It’s percent of the brand’s sales. shirt brand Mister French, Tfashion has helped transform the dress shirt from more invested than ever in fabrics. recover their shape. stocked at retailers including Saks Fifth Avenue, The brand recently started a made-to-measure believe the details on their $133-$148 linen vacation a utilitarian piece to a statement-making item This influx of newness has had a positive impact Stretch is also making its way into slim-fitting shirt program with a pop-up at Cole Haan’s SoHo shirts are differentiators. that can also be worn outside the office. Brands on the market. According to The NPD Group, in shirts, which continue to drive growth according store last month. Ledbury will continue to operate They feature a “Sunset are responding with crossover styles that feature the 12 months ending in March 2015, U.S. sales to Sirkin. the program from its store in Richmond. Both Loop” that discretely unique prints and elevated fabrics that wear well of men’s dress shirts increased 7 percent to $3 “Fit has seen the largest movement as slim and “I do think men will Thomas Pink and Gitman Brothers will relaunch holds sunglasses and a throughout the day. billion. That’s compared with 2013, when sales in fitted account for 50 percent of the dress shirts on their made-to-order programs later this year to collar that’s been treated “There have been major changes in what the the category reached $2.9 billion and 2012 when the floor today,” he said. want more variety as they include more styles and fabric options. with 3M stain-resistant consumer wants,” said David Sirkin, president of sales reached $2.78 billion. The newer, slim-fitting shirt features stretch to have more ownership “Custom is becoming bigger and bigger,” Trible technology. the dress shirt group at PVH Corp. “Fashion items “Men’s tailored clothing is doing well and that accommodate comfort and athletic body types. said. “I do think men will want more variety as have certainly been leading consumer demand as helps drive dress shirt sales. But the real reason Thomas Pink responded to this customer by in the clothes they they have more ownership in the clothes they they look for items that are not currently hanging they are doing well is that many stores now offer introducing an athletic fit, a slimmer style with decide to wear. Men are going to start demanding in their closets, such as prints, checks and updated different fits, slim or modern, as well as a tradi- stretch that retails at $195 and is designed for decide to wear. ” more fabrics and styles. It’s going to become a part

textures.” tional one. Add in the wide assortment of color muscular shoulders and a narrow waist. Gitman Carlos Monteiro by Infographic PAUL TRIBLE, cofounder of Ledbury of their vernacular.” ■

28 JUNE 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM Illustration by ZACH MEYER WWD.COM JUNE 2015, No. 1 29 Briefs Agenda

multidimensional is a dream. MARKETING: You can really get artistic in Wawrinka to star in D.Hedral ads constant exploration. O D.Hedral, an Italian men’s bodywear If you hadn’t gotten brand, has signed Swiss tennis 1 4 this job, what would you have done? player and Olympic gold medalist 2 3 5 6 I would have still been an actor. I was prepared to grad- Stan Wawrinka as its global brand uate from Juilliard and be ambassador. He will be featured in a unemployed and hustling for a decade. I was really ready print campaign and a film endorsing for that. I decided I wanted to the new athletic Seamless II Collection be an actor when I was seven and that has never changed, and Ace line launching this fall. and it never will. Wawrinka said, “I wanted to be part of

You’ve become a fan something in the lifestyle space which of Billy Reid. How did is a very interesting area for me to be that come about? I wore his beautiful clothing in as a sportsman.” The collection, to the Met Ball Gala and then which will be priced from $33 to $39, I went in one of his stores the Q&A: other day and couldn’t stop will include seamless briefs and trunks. 13 — ARIA HUGHES 7 10 Tony Award spending money because 14 15 his clothes are so amazing 8 9 11 12 just for my own wardrobe. Nominee Alex Sharp And he’s dressing me for the exhibition of art provided by Tonys as well. the Smithsonian. A reproduc- tion of LeRoy Neiman’s “Big O Alex Sharp scored the starring role What are you going Band” hangs on one wall, its in “The Curious Incident of the Dog in to wear? riot of pastels blending with a He’s got a beautiful tux for table full of brightly patterned the Night-Time” right after graduating me. It’s black, but it’s got a ties, greeting guests on entry. from Juilliard. And now he’s up for a really, really nice herringbone There will be a permanent detail to it. space reserved as a “Smith- Tony for Best Performance by an Actor sonian wall,” said Paul Stuart in a Leading Role. Here, he discusses Are you a follower spokesman Thomas Mastr- of fashion? onardi, where relics, artifacts his breakout role, his education in When I was an impoverished and artworks will be displayed fashion and what he likes to do with student, fashion didn’t seem on a revolving basis. accessible to me. I’m not The first installation is his hands when he isn’t working. wealthy by any means now, inspired by the American 19 you don’t get paid an enor- jazz movement. Paul Stuart 16 By JEAN E. PALMIERI mous amount to do a play, has pledged support for 20 21 but being a part of the world 17 18 in the nation’s capital. The the Smithsonian Jazz You must be really excited professional job actually. I and meeting people in the A Capital Idea luxury retailer has opened a Masterworks Orchestra, the about your nomination. feel like the luckiest person fashion industry opens your O Paul Stuart has arrived in 10,000-square-foot store in museum’s resident big band, I’m over the moon. You work in the world. To get to play eyes. It’s an art form and I’m a Washington with a bang — or Washington’s CityCenterDC, and has provided special uni- so hard, but you can’t imag- a part like this is an actor’s huge appreciator of arts. rather, a band. a downtown shopping and forms for the musicians. Jazz ine anything like that ever dream. I’ve been doing it In an unusual tie-in for dining mall with labels like Fer- artist and composer John happening. So when it does, eight or nine months now, What do you like to do a retailer, particularly an ragamo and Hermès already Pizzarelli was slated to attend it’s an enormous surprise but the character is so when you’re not working? independent specialty store, in residence, and Christian Tuesday’s opening party. and a huge honor. complex and there are so I’m a carpenter, so I make Paul Stuart is using a new Dior expected to open this fall. Paul Stuart operates many different layers to tables and things like that. It’s partnership with the Smith- Paul Stuart will showcase locations in Chicago, Japan Is this your first him, I never get bored. You’re something that really calms sonian’s National Museum of its men’s and women’s and its flagship on Madison Broadway role? constantly challenged, and me down, to use my hands to American History to promote collections using a rotating Avenue in Manhattan. This is my first-ever to get a character that’s that make something. American style and heritage — STEPHANIE GREEN

FURNISHINGS: Ferragamo Gets Personal O Oscar Wilde, the ultimate dandy style icon, once said: Original Penguin (15, 18, 20) “A well-tied tie is the first DKNY (14, 21) serious step in life.” Salvatore Tommy Hilfiger (7, 19) Ferragamo took note, and is Trend: Quilt Michael Kors (12, 13) launching Ties MTO, a special Calvin Klein (4, 16) service allowing clients to Boss (17) order customized ties that Hamilton (5, 10, 11) retail for about 30 percent Of Many Colors Todd Snyder (6, 9) more than its traditional ties. Ike Behar (2) To mark the launch, ¬ While white and blue might remain the biggest Turnbull & Asser (3) Ferragamo created four Brioni (1) sellers, an explosion of color and vivid patterns is short movies starring fashion Thomas Pink (8) bringing a new dynamic to the dress shirt market. personalities such as Beppe Modenese, Guglielmo Miani All shirts in cotton. and Sergio Colantuoni. — ALESSANDRA TURRA Sharp photograph by Astrid Stawiarz/Getty Images for Billy Reid; Wawrinka by Mitchell Gunn/Getty Images; Stuart by Jeff Martin Jeff Images; Stuart Gunn/Getty by Mitchell by Wawrinka Billy Reid; Images for Stawiarz/Getty Astrid by Sharp photograph

Photograph by GEORGE CHINSEE Styled by RACHEL STICKLEY Fashion Assistant: LUIS CAMPUZANO 30 JUNE 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM JUNE 2015, No. 1 31 mislead the public in any way? I really have no interest in the story at all. I Everything that I said and wrote was true. We don’t think it will rise to a national story. But I BILL O’REILLY put forth our evidence and people voted with wish Bruce Jenner well. If he’s happy, I’m happy. their clickers. It’s obvious that the point was to How did “Legends & Lies” come about? destroy the centerpiece of the Fox News network. After four major bestsellers with the Killing Everyone knows what the game is — get O’Reilly. series, Fox News was looking for a natural evolu- It’s all a matter of presentation. My presentation has How did you deal with that? tion. We selected the Old West. Next year we will I deal with it in a factual way, by presenting do a series on patriots. I am executive producing the facts. the show. What that means is, I review all the changed cable news — that’s undeniable and everybody Do you view your show as point of view scripts and I take out all the nonsense. We are journalism or entertainment? really happy with the reaction and ratings. I am a traditional journalist in the sense that I How do you view your legacy in the media? knows that — the nation has benefited from that.” got a degree at Boston University and I worked my I really don’t care what people think of me. I MEDIA way up through the ranks with the eye of becom- don’t have that gene. I’ve worked very, very hard PEOPLE By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD ing an op-ed columnist or a critic. I got an Emmy in my career. for investigative reporting, CBS hired me, then I But you can’t deny that you have impacted worked at ABC News, and later “Inside Edition.” It television news and I’d argue, even print jour- here are very few people who was all part of a plan to do commentary. I had left nalism. Can you comment on that? don’t have an opinion about “Inside Edition” because I didn’t want to do more It’s all a matter of presentation. My presentation Bill O’Reilly — especially these after six years. I didn’t want to do entertainment has changed cable news — that’s undeniable and days. His prime-time show “The anymore, but I knew I had to get visibility to prove everybody knows that — the nation has benefited O’Reilly Factor” is the top draw I could get a show. Then I went to Harvard to get from that. [At Fox], there’s enough straight news Ton Fox News, and it consistently my master’s of public administration. At Harvard, journalism during the day [and analysis at night]. beats the competition in cable I designed “The O’Reilly Factor.” Roger Ailes created a great formula. news ratings. While his dominance is due in part Have you ever gone too far in an interview? The daytime straight news at Fox still tar- to his high-octane interview style that straddles It’s a high-wire walk. Sometimes you overdo it gets a certain audience and the stories are cho- the line between fierce criticism and outright and sometimes you underdo it. I save most of my sen to speak to the network’s narrative. That browbeating, O’Reilly started his career with a guests. I could destroy them. I could but I don’t. “formula” exists at rival networks. Is that more traditional journalistic bend with stints at Sometimes like with [former U.S. Congressman] kind of coverage just the way of cable news? CBS and ABC News. Later, he worked at “Inside Barney Frank, you’ve got to go at it. Look, I don’t see any gaping holes in our [day- Edition” and at Fox News. During his 19 years at Is that an example of going too far or is time] coverage. We do it honestly. We are beating Fox, O’Reilly has penned “The Killing” series, a there another one? CNN [in the ratings]. trove of top-selling books on the deaths of histor- I watched this tape recently of me telling Phil Will the nightly newscast on network chan- ical figures, including Jesus and Abraham Lincoln. Donahue that I was going to boot him off the set. I nels become a thing of the past as the media Currently, O’Reilly is the executive producer and probably wouldn’t do that at this point. You know, continues to change? host of Fox News’ docuseries “Legends & Lies: you’re never perfect. The 22-minute newscast is still profitable. It’s a The Real West.” The show airs Sundays at 8 p.m. Do you play into the acrimony of the polit- “I save most of my guests. prestige thing. They aren’t going away. Sometimes and averages 1.2 million viewers, giving it the ical debate between the left and right or do they black out stories — like the story on the Clin- advantage over CNN in a troublesome time slot, you view what you do on your show as just I could destroy them. I ton Foundation. I don’t like that. something O’Reilly enjoys boasting about. getting to the point? What about the larger issue of how the But in recent days, O’Reilly has been quieter, I don’t look at it ideologically. We try to run a could but I don’t.” business model is changing in reaction to the following news reports from a three-year old straight show. The far right doesn’t like me at all. landscape? child custody battle claiming that the anchor had They attack me routinely. I don’t evaluate it. I let People watch the news differently. We know physically assaulted his ex-wife. The dispute ended the chips fall as they may. It’s not about ideology that. The audience is pretty big and there are a lot two weeks ago with O’Reilly losing custody of his for us at “The O’Reilly Factor.” It has worked for organization. It’s a $2 billion company [but] it’s of eyeballs. The networks have fairly consistent two minor children. 19 years. There is an authenticity to what we do. maverick. We are outside the conventional wis- audiences, but younger Americans are leaving TV The bulk of this interview was conducted before At the same time, the left isn’t going to like it. I dom. There’s a different way of going about things and getting information on the ’Net. That being those reports had been released. WWD did catch don’t believe capitalism is bad. I don’t believe here at Fox News Corp. said, network news remains viable and necessary. up with O’Reilly immediately after for a photo in a welfare system. The right isn’t going to like Aren’t most media companies like that? How There aren’t many news anchors left. Is shoot. (He declined to comment on the allega- me because I don’t believe in demonizing Barack would you classify digital media companies? anyone coming up in the ranks? tions, however he did address how he has been Obama and Hillary Clinton. They are all insurgents. They are trying to carve The guys they have now are really good, but portrayed in the media since the news broke.) Is there anyone you haven’t you inter- out a niche. they don’t have the depth of experience that the In the “Factor’’ studio, a quiet O’Reilly dutifully viewed whom you would like to interview? What do you think of the newer digital older guys had, like [Walter] Cronkite. posed for photos, but before the shoot had ended, The Pope, Francis. That would be a really inter- media companies? Why is that? he asked this reporter to take a photo with him — a esting person for me to do. The newer media companies — some of them It’s because there were just three channels sort of nuanced joke that he delighted in. Practically everyone has a camera phone are good, some of them aren’t. Even Yahoo isn’t a before and the anchors had to do everything. “I don’t want to ruin your reputation,” he said and access to the Internet. Technology has mainstream media company. What do you read in your free time? with a smirk. brought to light a lot of racial tension and Do you ever get your news from them? I read mostly nonfiction stuff. I just finished a police brutality. Is there more of it today or Not really. I’m so busy reading and doing my Billy Martin biography. I’m a big baseball fan. I’m You’ve declined to directly address the cur- is it more visible than before? projects and books. I get a summation of what’s reading all the time. rent controversy apart from the statement FBI stats say crime is down, [but] police killings, around on Fox News and I get it in a folder. Who are your heroes in politics or media? issued by your lawyer, but in regards to the felonious killings are up 89 percent. A lot of it What are some common misconceptions Howard Cosell because my father hated him. media scrutiny surrounding it, how do you [the tension] comes up from social media. I don’t about you? Your position on gay marriage has I’d listen to him on the radio. Cosell would get respond? believe that the American police in general are softened over time, yet most people might see involved and I thought that his talent was unique. After 19 years, I have come to expect personal oppressors. Violent police encounters are down. you as very conservative. I interviewed him before he died. Tom Synder [is attacks by some in the media. Nothing I can do At Fox, you guys call everyone else the Anyone who thinks I’m an ultraconservative is another one]. He was a fabulous communicator. about it. If the USA had the same libel laws that “mainstream media.” You have the highest just ridiculous. I’m against the death penalty. I’m I studied how he communicated. And Peter Jen- Great Britain has, the sliming might let up a bit. ratings on cable news, and you arguably speak an environmentalist... nings — but I don’t have any “heroes.” But until then, nothing will change. Opposing to and represent the views of the majority of Do you believe in global warming? How do you come up with some sayings like my opinions on life, liberty and the pursuit of Americas. Let’s not forget that Fox is not a My thing is if it’s cleaner it’s better. I’m not qual- “bloviator,” “gutter snipe,” and so on? happiness is valid if done responsibly. I have no media start-up. How are you not the main- ified to determine if there’s a deity controlling it. I’m trying to be different, and constantly asking, problem with that. stream media? Some people say the ice in Antarctica is massing. “How can we do it differently?” Innovation after In light of the Brian Williams scandal, did That’s a very good question, Alex. The main- So there is a lot we don’t understand. 19 years is a must. It’s basically that. You have to you feel persecuted by the Falklands allega- stream media is the establishment. I worked at Like most people, I watched ABC News’ think, think, think. You have to mull it over. I don’t tions, in which it was claimed that you fabri- CBS News and ABC News. I was never able to Bruce Jenner interview. I was surprised to want to be bored. You know, we are up against cated that you had covered the war from the conform to the way that the national media in learn that Jenner is a Republican. Do you entertainment programming at the 8 o’clock slot. ground? [O’Reilly said he covered the war, Manhattan had presented themselves. I wanted think a transgender person will ever be We are up against dancing and wrestling and but wasn’t on the Falklands Islands.] Did you to put my voice into the news. Fox is a maverick embraced by the Republican Party? singing. ■

32 JUNE 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM Photograph by STEVE EICHNER WWD.COM JUNE 2015, No. 1 33 Tk THE ULTIMATE RESOURCE FOR CURATED MEN’S FASHION C O V E R A G E

PITTI/ LONDON ISSUE DATE: 6/10 AD CLOSE: 5/27 MATERIALS DUE: 6/1 NY MEN’S MEN’S MILAN PREVIEW FASHION WEEK ISSUE DATE: 6/17 ISSUE DATE: 7/15 AD CLOSE: 6/3 AD CLOSE: 7/1 MATERIALS DUE: 6/8 MATERIALS DUE: 7/6

M COLLECTIONS ISSUE DATE: 8/26 AD CLOSE: 8/12 MATERIALS DUE: 8/17 MON JUNE 1 CFDA Awards and After Party 36 Call Them Kimye FAIRCHILD FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT MEDIA PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 213 4702 OR [email protected] WWD.COM JUNE 2015, No. 1 35 Betsey Johnson, Miles McMillan with in her own design. Zachary Quinto in Ralph Lauren Black Label.

Garrett Neff and Jason Wu

Anna Ewers in Alexander Wang, with the designer.

Nasiba Adilova, Rosie Assoulin and Jennifer Fisher.

Shayne Oliver with Binx Walton in Hood by Air.

Talk Show Natasha Poly in Michael Kors, with Yigal Azrouël, Suvi Koponen Designers, celebrities toast fashion’s biggest night. and Jacquelyn Jablonski. Photographs by Steve Eichner pubescent boy at his Bar Mitzvah. childhood in the Bronx all while Gigi Hadid in Michael Kors But they weren’t alone. seemingly forgetting that this with Karlie Kloss in Diane von Furstenberg. Awkward moments abounded was a fashion awards show ac- Maxwell Osborne even by the standards of awards ceptance speech, not a keynote with Banks in ceremonies. They ranged from address. Public School. heartwarming — Betsey Johnson If the CFDA Awards are the Aymeline Volade in lost a shoe while doing her cart- proverbial Oscars of Fashion, one The Row with Mary-Kate wheel and a split; Chelsea Clin- wanted to ask, where was the and Ashley Olsen. ton’s tribute to Oscar de la Renta playoff music? — to the borderline pathological. After Williams concluded his Kanye West delivered a classic monologue, two other very fa- rant, including an impromptu mous people who overcame the angry rap and a reminder to all plight of celebrities in fashion, ac- the critics who panned his first cepted the evening’s final award: collection that his Adidas shoes Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen won sold out, all during what was Womenswear Designers of the supposed to be a presentation of Year for The Row. They thanked the Style Icon Award to Pharrell each other, the CFDA, their team Williams. The “Happy” singer, in and their customers in less than Grimes in Proenza turn, accepted the award with one minute. Tabitha Simmons, Schouler with Jack an oral history of his shopping who won for accessories, and McCollough and habits that clocked in at a quarter Tom Ford, who won for men’s, Lazaro Hernandez. of an hour. Similarly lengthy was were also short and sweet. Thakoon Panichgul Mickey Drexler, recipient of the Afterward, everyone with Who says it’s the age of “Tonight we will find out who with Lily Aldridge in Founders Award, who paid a sin- even a tenuous connection to MON zero attention span? is the Menswear Designer of the Thakoon. cere tribute to his family and his the industry headed to the Top ► JUNE “We’re just about Year, the Womenswear Designer 1 at the half way point,” of the Year, and the Accessory Daria Strokous cracked James Corden, Designer of the Year. In addition and David Lauren the host of Monday night’s CFDA to these awards we will also Awards, and that was two hours have the Swarovski Award for and 30 minutes into the proceed- Menswear, the Swarovski Award ings. It was one of his best lines. for Womenswear, and, yes, the The English actor, new host of Swarovski Award for Acces- “The Late Late Show” and fashion sory Design. Tonight is basically outsider was generally hilarious, Groundhog Day with the addition poking fun at himself and nailing of the word ‘Swarovski.’” many of the industry absurdities On that note, they might that are considered normal. He consider renaming them the opened with a musical number on Swarovski Awards for Awkward designers’ misconceptions that Speeches, as the three recipi- they are doing god’s work. “To ents, Rachel Mansur and Floriana speak of your side-ruffled peplum Gavriel for Mansur Gavriel, as if you are Ein-f---ing-stein.” His Shayne Oliver for Hood by Air and articulation of the obvious was Rosie Assoulin accepted their almost profound: awards with the grace of a ►

34 JUN 2015, No.1 WWD.COM Donna Karan Jemima Kirke in of the Standard for the CFDA accolades from the room. Rosie Assoulin. and Refinery29’s official after “My favorite part was party. It wasn’t just designers watching Betsey Johnson be EICHNER’S EYE and their dates, but their dates’ Betsey Johnson,” said Michelle dates and each of their publicists Monaghan. “She puts us all to WWD’s veteran party photographer has snapped the CFDA crowd — the and myriad hangers-on and shame.” The designer, who said nominees, the honorees, the dates — many a-time before, but rarely while they’re seemingly anyone who needed a she’s never put much thought all under one roof. Here, he shares his perspective from the front lines of the place to knock back a few flutes into courting the establishment, convergence of Kimye, Gigi and every American designer under the sun. of Champagne on a rainy New was just pleased to bring along York night. her granddaughters, ages 7 and Even Jude Law was there. He 9. “They don’t like to go to fashion popped over after the premiere things. But when they heard they of his new movie “Spy” and was could meet Pharrell? Oh my God. Alice Tully Hall holding court in one of the booths You couldn’t keep them away,” overlooking the bar like he’d just she said. 5:50 God bless her soul, Ruth Finley’s the first to p.m. arrive. won the Fashion Icon award. The following morning while Designers, meanwhile, presenting her resort collec- “Did you see the Vanity Fair cover of Bruce Jen- huddled in their booths. Inter- tion, CFDA president Diane von 6:13 ner?” Someone pushes their Galaxy into my face. national Award winners Maria Furstenberg pondered deeper p.m. “Wow, her work is better than Kim’s!” I squawk. Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo meaning of the night. “I’m serious! I’ve seen her up close.” Piccioli consorted in one corner “I thought last night was very much reflective of our time, for with compatriots Franca Sozzani A fleet of umbrella ushers keep the guests dry as and the actress Valeria Golino. the good, the bad, for people 6:37 p.m. they walk from the red carpet to the front door. Not too far away Alexander Wang wanting to have the limelight, talk How proper! was surrounded by a posse of too long. All of that. It was very models, including Anna Ewers 2015.” She was correct, for better Spotting me on the press line, Bill Cunningham who puffed away on a cigarette or worse. Let’s not forget the 6:51 p.m. trots over. “Hey kid, are you expecting Jackie until told to stop by a waitress. media award was not presented [Onassis] or something?” He teases. “No, some- Lazaro Hernandez, Jack Mc- to a journalist as usual but to one way more glamorous and talented: Kim Collough and the singer Grimes Instagram and that its ceo Kevin Kardashian,” I laugh. “Oh no, they’ve gotten to you, were posted near the entrance Systrom accepted the honor from too,” he frowns. as if ready to bolt. Johnson, the one Kim Kardashian West, “the recipient of much praise earlier queen of Instagram.” 7:03 Karlie Kloss, I’m at a loss. Gigi Hadid, Oh My p.m. Bibhu Mohapatra in the evening, was still picking up — JESSICA IREDALE AND ERIK MAZA Godid! and Ryan Roche Wearing a big gold chain, sipping from a bottle Irene Neuwirth with 7:10 of White Girl Rosé and working a Troll doll hairdo: p.m. Michelle Monaghan in “Who is this guy?” Monique Lhuillier.

7:27 Hanne Gaby Odiele winks at me. I love watching p.m. that girl party; she has the most fun.

Kimye arrives. He is wearing some sort of a ka- 8:23 rate kimono and she is in a sheer black Proenza p.m. dress, underwear visible. “Over here! For the in- side photographer!” I yell and get the three shot: Kim, Kanye and the second baby (South West?).

“Asking me to host the CFDAs is like asking Terry 8:45 p.m. Richardson to host your daughter’s birthday party.” James Corden is officially the best host of all time.

Nice speech Mickey Drexler, but if this was the 9:01 p.m. Academy Awards you would have been played off at least 10 minutes ago.

Wes Gordon and 10:14 Pharrell’s speech lasted phorever. Saskia de Brauw p.m.

Diane Kruger in Prabal Gurung Joseph Altuzarra with Joshua Jackson in Ralph with Liya Kebede I go to snap Chrissy Teigen after the ceremony. Lauren Black Label. in his design. 10:27 p.m. “Wait a moment,” she says as she gives me an over-the-shoulder pose. “Her dress ripped in front,” a public relations person whispers in my ear.

10:53 Flash! Flash! Tory Burch and Shayne Oliver toast- p.m. ing his win. Now on to Boom Boom Room!

The Official CFDA After Party at the The Top of the Standard Plopping down and sprawling out on a banquette, 11:43 p.m. DVF takes a deep breath and gives me a look of sweet relief that says, “Thank God it’s over!”

Alex Wang partying with the Proenza boys and 11:54 p.m. Grimes, next to Hanne Gaby who’s having the most fun, as usual!

“That’s so beautiful,” Rachel Roy compliments 12:24 a.m. Rachel Zoe’s fringy dress. “I made this myself,” Zoe boasts as she does a twirl for my camera.

The Fat Jewish On the step and repeat Diane Kruger powders with Nina Dobrev 12:31 her face then feigns powdering Prabal’s. Couldn’t a.m. in Lela Rose. grab my camera fast enough. Bummer!

38 JUNE 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM JUNE 2015, No. 1 39 Arts & Culture BY ERIK MAZA On a Friday morning after a late performance of the play “Skylight,” Matthew Beard is at a photo studio in Manhattan doing that thing that young British actors do so well: fidgeting, drolly poking fun at himself, his hands invariably running through his hair. “Oh, Saturday?” he says when a reporter mentions a recent show. “That’s the problem when people come see you. Your mind goes, ‘Oh, was that the worst show ever?’” Beard — 26, lanky, fine-boned, with a perpetual wowed look on his face that can’t believe his good fortune — is the latest in a long line of adorably nebbish British heartthrobs that has included Hugh Grant and Jeremy Northam.

“Because I start the play and I have no time to settle into it, if I don’t hit the ground running, I’m screwed.” — Matthew Beard on “Skylight”

In the U.K., he broke out in the small British film “And When Did You Last See Your Father?” when a London casting agent went looking for “a young Colin Firth.” “That,” he says, “changed every- thing.” He was 17. A string of films by the Danish director Lone Scherfig followed, as well as a memorable supporting role in last year’s critical darling, “The Imi- tation Game.” Now he’s on Broadway, starring with Carey Mulligan and Bill Nighy (an older version of a nebbish British heartthrob) in a revival of David Hare’s Nineties polemic. He’s onstage for less than 30 minutes, but when the Tony Awards take place on Sunday, he’ll be in the supporting actor category in the company of Na- thaniel Parker and Richard McCabe, veterans of the British stage who log twice as much time in their brainy productions “Wolf Hall” and “The Audience,” respectively. Hare’s play, which had a run in the West End last year and got Beard short-listed for the Evening Stan- dard’s emerging talent award, was the actor’s first as a professional. “It was very intimidating, but I wanted to do it,” Beard says. “I wanted to put my money where my mouth is, Louis Vuitton’s cotton as they say.” T-shirt and Joseph’s In front of the camera in the studio, wool pants. Rag & Bone The Next Colin Firth? sneakers. Beard is a natural, a skill that comes from years as a child actor. For all his self-effacement earlier, he easily Matthew Beard, film career switches to dark and brooding with him to auditions for sitcoms and professional relationship. The two of won’t see him again for another 90, drome. Also, there’s a pace to New the click of a button, artfully showing commercials while he recited whole them have done three films together, tense minutes of bravura perfor- York,” he says, laughing at the sound off for the photographer a tattoo, a passages from “Star Wars.” starting with “An Education” (which mances from Nighy and Mulligan. of his own naïveté. “That’s an original cubed hare, on his left forearm. “At that age if you’re well behaved also starred Mulligan) and now the “Because I start the play and I thought. And I like that pace. I can ascendant, scores a Tony “It looks like a regrettable young and you don’t cry and you don’t trash upcoming “The Riot Club”; a fourth have no time to settle into it, if I don’t sort of step out of my apartment and decision. It wasn’t,” he says. “I was old the set, you get asked back quite a may be in the works. hit the ground running, I’m screwed,” straight into the bloodstream.” and sober.” Unlike posh predeces- lot,” he says. “I was always told, ‘This “I owe her so much. I don’t know he says. “There are times when I don’t He’s taken in all the sights and sors like Grant and Daniel Day-Lewis, will end and you’ll get a proper job.’ I why she cast me. I think she sort of hit it. And then I have to walk off stage checked off all the touristy land- nod on his first time out. Beard grew up in working-class just never got that proper job. I just pitied me, and has continued to pity and sit in my dressing room for two marks, except for one: He hasn’t seen Sheffield, just an hour’s drive away kept going.” me for many years,” he says. hours fuming at myself.” any other plays on Broadway. He’s from Yorkshire, a perennial hub of The Firth film came about as In “Skylight,” Beard, playing against After the play wraps up in June, asked if there are any roles he’d like television production. something of a last-minute audition type as a daft, spoiled 18-year-old, he doesn’t know what he’ll do with to take and he lights up: “Actually, I Photographs by EMILY HOPE Styled by ALEX BADIA “Everyone in my family is either a as he was preparing to put acting dominates the first 20 minutes of the himself. Like many an Englishman saw ‘Hedwig and the Angry Inch’ and Fashion Assistant: LUIS CAMPUZANO Grooming by JENNIFER builder or a teacher. As a reference I on hold to attend the University of play before disappearing until the last before him, he’s kind of fallen in love I’d love to do that.” The thought lasts BRENT for EXCLUSIVE ARTISTS MANAGEMENT using Joseph’s wool coat and always say, ‘Have you seen ‘The Full York to study English. It was another scene. His challenge, in a short time, with his adopted home. for a moment. “But you have to be BUMBLE AND BUMBLE and CHANEL COSMETICS Brioni’s cashmere sweater. Monty?’” he says. His young parents audition, with Scherfig, that has is to make a strong enough impres- “I get on with New York. Obviously, famous to do ‘Hedwig,’” he says, half juggled going to school with taking resulted in Beard’s most lasting sion and win over an audience that a huge part of it is a clean slate syn- apologetic. ■

40 JUNE 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM JUNE 2015, No. 1 41 BY KHANH T.L. TRAN, ALLY BETKER, MARCY MEDINA and LEIGH NORDSTROM

ILLUSTRATIONS BY Report Card They Are . . . STUDIO MUTI 50 Cent Depreciates, Emma Shines From Nantucket preppy (Rand) to Bushwick hipster (Katharine), here are some of the best and the worst of the week.

D Her hair is sleek DThe presidential DHer skin is DThe straw fedora (though, we wish candidate clearly flawless and the hints at Chicago she’d mix it up a little; loves a good curling lighter shade of red gangster and we’ve seen her with iron and a can of really works for her. clashes with the the pulled back bun hair mousse. But if preppy Long Island many a time) and he wants to really Great Gatsby her makeup natural make a run for the ensemble. But he The blazer- — she looks like she nation’s highest D still gives good face. draped-over-the- has on little more office, he should cut shoulders thing DThe microcheck than Rosebud Salve off the locks for a can be annoyingly cotton suit is too and a couple coats more professional affected but cute for him and of mascara. look. No one takes here it gives a when paired with a men with curls DWe get where she complementary white waistcoat and seriously. was going with the masculine a tartan tie, is just at her “#1 to Infinity” show. Baja graffiti/eveningwear annoying. And while DThe navy blazer nonchalance to #Living East’s Scott Studenberg and the suit fits him in contrast, but this with an oxford the girly beaded John Targon posed for photos most places, it’s dress is a tent on and khakis is very minidress. For Mariah backstage with the hit-maker too tight around his her petite figure. Kennedy of him. It seems nothing lately attracts (annotating the moment with manly guns. It should have Wrong party, dude. the crowds to Sin City quite like “#dead”), as did director Lee been taken up DThe tasseled an over-the-top diva. Mariah Daniels, who, in their picture and taken in so we DThe desert sneakers might Carey’s Las Vegas residency together, admired the singer’s could properly boot feels out of be acceptable for at The Colosseum is barely a ample chest, or, as he called it, see the tagging. place. According DThe shoe’s gray a teenage girl in month under way (she joins fellow her “kittens.” Taraji P. Henson and The semicrinkled to the Preppy hue is a little sad but Brooklyn, but on pop idols Britney Spears and Rita Ora have also stopped over satin and the bow Handbook, a the pointy toe shape him, they’re just Celine Dion), but the fashion set to hear Carey’s famous pipes. at the neckline penny loafer is is a winner. ridiculous. is already losing their minds or, For the rest of us, there’s just the aren’t helping the appropriate in Instagram parlance, #living sweet, sweet fantasy, baby. matters. choice.

Riding You can get yours customized at FAIL A- D James Perse or buy a mass model C from Missoni for Target. We’re Designer talking about the trusty two-wheeler. China Chow Rand Paul Emma Stone 50 Cent Fashion brands — Sjobeck Malibu, Wheels Rag & Bone, James Perse and tie Jones others — are all making their own Angerer/Getty Images; Images; Angerer/Getty DThe newly DHer simple red DIs the Eighties DDoes she actually tricked-out cruisers as of late. At Rag resigned FIFA lip complements investment banker need glasses…or are & Bone’s Abbot Kinney Boulevard president needs the retro vibe of the look meant to these decorative? Meditating at Broga store, you can even borrow one concealer to cover dress. Cute sunnies. signify he’s the Time to call of the limited-edition Solé bikes to up his sun spots latest Master of 1-800-CONTACTS. cruise around Venice Beach (for up and red cheeks. He the Universe at the DPaired with to four hours). Lorenzo Martone, who DThe fit-and-flare clearly likes to have box office? The suit the statement might have pioneered the trend of silhouette and fun under the sun minimizes his hulky spectacles, the designer bikes and just expanded the gingham print — maybe all those proportions, but hair — pulled back, to L.A., even recently invited artists give this look a trips to scouting out the light gray with gel matting It seems as though the boys are finally Sket One, David Burns, Austin Young, wholesome ladylike Qatar as the site for windowpane down the part — just Zachary Crane and ToMo to use his vibe, which is rare the 2022 World Cup. pattern mixed makes her look like catching on to yoga. The growing trend — bikes as a canvas. And if $3,500 for these days. DThe suit does with the wide a college student in an artist-signed bike is too much of nothing to elongate peak lapel is the middle of finals a commitment, there’s always Citi just too much. call it Broga — is picking up steam in the his five-foot, three- and in need of a Bike, but where’s the fun in that? inch frame. But DWe wish she DThe polka dot tie shower. hot studios of New York and Los Angeles, maybe he’s going for opted for more adds too much flair DWe like what she’s that look considering delicate footwear. to the already bold doing tonally: the he’s known as the These clunkers ensemble. An open stark white vest especially among models. More and more Napolean of football. feel a little Fee-Fi- collar white shirt against the paler Getting Hairy Fo-Fum. DThe tie’s shadow without a pocket crop top grounded are slipping on the Lycra, trying on man buns Just in time for tank-top season, geometric pattern square would have with some black. But some of the most high-profile “It” works. But it’s been the better she’d have looked and mixing in yoga with their usual CrossFit girls are going for a more natural surprising that a man choice. so much more chic look. Lena Dunham, and “Girls” of his stature doesn’t DLinen fabrics tend if she traded in the costar Jemima Kirke, Miley Cyrus, know the rules of to be unforgiving, pleated skirt for a routines to get lean and check out chicks in Daria Werbowy and Scout Willis tying a tie. Never especially in the cuff cooler option like are letting their underarm hair below the belt. area of pants. tailored culottes. their skimpy Lululemon. During his years of grow, and bragging about it on social media, usually in the pictures playing rugby, model Nick Youngquest picked of Cass Bird. And it seems to be catching on. When Cyrus posted an image showing off her hirsute look, up the practice. “I had this mentality that this hashtagging her post “#dirtyhippie,” C- B+ B- C+ natch, she got nearly 400,000 is, for lack of a better word, stupid,” he admits. likes, suggesting hairy pits are no Sepp Blatter Frieda Pinto Dwayne Johnson Katharine McPhee longer the terrain of just our more Johnson photograph by Albert L. Ortega/Getty Images; Blatter by Alexander Hassenstein/FIFA/FIFA via Getty Images; Paul by Drew Drew by Images; Paul via Getty Hassenstein/FIFA/FIFA Alexander by Images; Blatter Ortega/Getty Albert L. by Johnson photograph Ka by Eichner; Chow Steve McPhee by Jim Spellman/WireImage; 50 Cent by Jon Kopaloff/FilmMagic; by Eichner; Stone Steve by Pinto Now, he’s a certified teacher. Namaste, dude. progressive liberal arts campuses.

42 JUNE 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM JUNE 2015, No. 1 43 FEATURESIllustration by MATT MURPHY

TWO PIECES, MONOKINIS, COVER-UPS AND MORE.

ALIGN YOUR MESSAGE WITH THE LATEST TRENDS AND HOTTEST PRODUCTS IN SWIMWEAR.

July 15 July 1 July 6 46 Hard Sell ISSUE DATE AD CLOSE MATERIALS DUE In an effort to bolster sagging revenues, magazine publishers are exploring e-commerce. 50 Go West! Rugged cowboy style FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, gets a splash of panache. ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR [email protected]

THE POWER OF CONTENT WWD.COM JUNE 2015, No. 1 45 Hard

SellMagazine publishers are anxiously seeking new revenue streams and commerce is in their sights. Will it ever work?

BY Alexandra Steigrad AND Samantha Conti ILLUSTRATIONS BY Javier Munoz

Magazine e-commerce is today’s Holy Grail of publishing. The question is: Will the Grail ever be found?

Publishers are certainly praying it will be. As newsstand and advertising Not to mention the massive and costly logistical demands. revenues plummet, magazine companies are desperately seeking new streams Naturally, the publishers insist that it’s no big deal and that they are up to the of revenue to plug the holes. They’re pumping money into TV programming, challenge. Skeptics don’t think they are. online videos, native advertising departments and more. Now they’ve turned “This is a business that is alien to a publishing company,” a former retail their attentions back to commerce, as the ease and fast growth of online shop- executive, who requested anonymity, said. “It’s not going to work. It’s not their ping have reignited their belief that they, too, can become e-tailers. Why not? field of expertise. There are terrific obstacles. In their view, they already are arbiters of taste, curators of the best products “The corporation has to have a mentality to get this done,” the executive for their readers, guardians of all that is chic and covetable. Why shouldn’t they added. “Have they hired someone who comes out of the retail industry? Logis- sell what they show in their pages? tics are a huge issue. They’ll be faced with free delivery. Inventory is a huge The problem is, no publishing company has succeeded as an e-tailer up issue. They have to have good amounts of merchandise, and if it doesn’t sell, to now. how do they get rid of it? Apparel returns online are high, you have to be able Then there’s the thorny issue of editorial independence. Will the likes of Anna, to sustain returns. Are they prepared to take markdowns, and liquidate? I don’t Glenda, Robbie, Ariel and Graydon really be happy becoming merchants as well understand why they are getting into this. I don’t believe they can build enough as editors? And while consumer magazines have long been known to blur the volume to make it.” lines of Church and State — making sure major advertisers are well taken care Even publishers themselves agree — to some extent. of in credits and stories — actually selling their products is a whole different ball “For many years, Time Inc. tried to sell products and services,” said Joe Ripp, game, creating conflicts of interest that come with a shared financial interest. the company’s chairman and chief executive officer. “What they did was, they’d ►

46 JUNE 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM assign publishers to sell products and services. best-selling product to date is a $130 curling iron Condé Nast in April to serve as its editorial director have to be able to say, ‘Yes, this is a great brand, “Digital is a completely different beast,” said For Smith and Lucy Yeomans, Net-a-porter and What you really need to do is to hire merchan- called the “Beach Waver.” of e-commerce, WWD has learned. but it belongs in our edit pages rather than on the magazine industry analyst Samir Husni, who is Porter editor in chief, it took some time to learn disers to work with people who actually know the Hearst’s Harper’s Bazaar was one of the first This won’t be Condé’s first leap into e-com- site.’ And vice-versa.” also a professor at the University of Mississippi’s the e-commerce side, but the fact that technol- business to sell those products and services. Retail fashion magazines to try a revenue-share model merce, though. For instance, Allure already works WWD posed the question of ethics and the role school of journalism. “[The publisher may think] ogists, merchandisers, buyers and editors were and magazine publications are just two different by creating a marketplace, much like Amazon with MasterCard, which created a commerce hub of the editor to several other editors. Condé Nast if you order something from a magazine, from my under the same roof made it easier. things. The skill sets are different.” Marketplace, but on a smaller scale. In 2011, found on the title’s digital editions and Web site. artistic director Anna Wintour declined to com- digital side, I expect to get a percentage of that “What’s interesting for Net-a-porter versus Still, Ripp thinks that consumer magazines — publisher Carol Smith approached editor in chief Allure does not get any revenue from the part- ment, and Elle editor in chief Robbie Myers did sale. That’s where there’s a bit of danger that I can other models is, we get instant feedback from our and fashion magazines in particular — “owe” it Glenda Bailey with the idea of making the mag- nership, but instead Web traffic, which it hopes not respond to requests seeking comment. see looming on the horizon. Because of that digital shoppers,” Yeomans said, referring to data linked to their readers to go the extra mile and provide azine completely shoppable, and for customers will translate to digital advertising dollars. “The Ariel Foxman, who serves as editorial director loophole — if you buy from me via my digital site, to purchases through shoppable digital and print a way for readers to be able to buy the products to purchase through Bazaar. The duo created a connection between content and commerce has for InStyle and StyleWatch, didn’t address the then it’s OK to get a cut of the sale, you start won- pages. She also underscored the “trust” that the featured in their pages and on their Web sites. business plan and with “a little bit of money from always existed, but before the current technology, ethics issue directly, but seemed firmly in favor dering [about objectivity]. If their own product is e-tailer has built with consumers since it launched “When a fashion magazine says: ‘This is what a David Carey [Hearst Magazines president]” they it followed a jagged, meandering, slow-as-molas- of magazine commerce, saying, “The editor’s role the only one they speak about, yes, I think that in 2000 — a point of differentiation over all other star is wearing,’ and readers say: ‘I like the look. launched ShopBazaar in October 2012, according ses path,” Allure editor in chief Linda Wells said is to inspire, to bring the best of what’s new and would compromise editorial ethics and integrity publishers in terms of customer experience. Where can I get that,’ and we don’t provide it to to Smith, with Saks Fifth Avenue as a retail partner. at WWD’s Beauty Digital Summit in May. “Now, undiscovered and most importantly, to deliver of a lot of our editors. They’re becoming upscale What’s been a larger challenge for Porter is get- them, we have failed them,” he contended. “The ShopBazaar wasn’t a success in the beginning, through tech innovations like MasterPass, the path expert service to ensure that the user feels most matchmakers rather than being prostitutes. I don’t ting the publishing model right for international reason [e-commerce] Web sites have done so well but Smith and Bailey eventually found a suitable is smooth and seamless. The consumer can com- confident when making purchases. We have a think there’s an editor in today’s marketplace audiences. The duo cited distribution problems, and grown so dramatically online is because they revenue-share partner in Yoox and they negotiated plete a purchase without even leaving the page.” mantra here at InStyle: Never leave the reader who can survive his or her position by turning for one, as the magazine is sent to subscribers fill that need. In many respects, service magazines partnerships independently with designers. They without next steps. She should always be able to the magazine into an escort service rather than a and sold on newsstands globally. Another issue have failed because of the strict rule that you can’t also set up a sponsored content business, in which hen there is Lucky. Facing dwindling is credibility. There is an inherent difficulty in sell what you refer to and get the products that we Bazaar editors help create shoppable collections. ad sales, slumping newsstand revenue maintaining editorial integrity when you’re fea- find so interesting.” When asked what she would have done differ- and a shrinking readership, Condé Nast turing products sold by the retailer that owns your It’s a rationale most publishing companies are ently if she were starting over, Smith said: “I would spun off the title to BeachMint to form publication. Yeomans, a former editor in chief of beginning to adopt. Perhaps the most ambitious have brought in a serious e-commerce person to The Lucky Group. The venture had Harper’s Bazaar, shrugged that off, noting she’s venture is coming from Condé Nast, which plans handle the bills. We were missing that element. Trising-star editor in chief Eva Chen juggling several “never had more editorial integrity” because she’s to roll out shopping platforms across several of its We went to build before we understood. I think I jobs, including working as a merchandiser, writing not reliant on advertisers’ dollars. magazines. The first step was to transform Style. would have gone out there to talk to as many pure- copy, fulfillment and other back-end jobs. Chen, Some magazine executives, though, snipe at com, which has long been money-losing, from an play e-commerce people to understand and then who has since resigned, declined to comment. the idea that Porter is a true glossy. editorial site into an e-commerce marketplace, to marketplace people. We thought we were build- Things only got worse when the group’s chief “Porter magazine is the version of the Sears beginning this fall. ing a store, but we were building a marketplace.” operations officer left and was never replaced. magazine in some sense,” said Duncan Edwards, Most other publishing firms are more cautious Still, Smith noted that the majority of Bazaar’s “An editor in chief can’t be a chief operations president and ceo of Hearst Magazines Interna- than Condé, at least at this point. Hearst Magazines revenue still comes from advertising, not e-com- officer,” an insider said, adding that because Lucky tional. “I don’t mean that in a pejorative sense. — after several failed attempts to marry content merce. She justified ShopBazaar’s existence by holds inventory, it’s crucial to have “every single It’s a communication tool. Retailers have always and commerce — is focusing more on the former calling it a “differentiator” for the magazine and duck lined up. This is not something to be entered played in media. They have always been producing than the latter, although it still does have com- wished her competitors trying to pull off the same into lightly.” catalogues or some sort of owned-media com- merce plays at Harper’s Bazaar and Elle Japan. At feat “luck.” Lucky’s digital editorial director Verena von munication with their consumers forever, that’s Time Inc., food and shelter magazines have found Her competitors include Condé Nast’s rejig- Pfetten acknowledged the bumpy start but insisted nothing new.” a more receptive audience in the e-commerce gered Style.com, which is expected to launch its that since the launch of Lucky Shops in February, For the ever-conservative Hearst, the challenge world, in part because selling home and food-cen- new e-commerce model in September. According the company has signed 150 brands and 100 is finding ways to develop new streams of revenue tric goods is “more of a natural extension” than to Franck Zayan, president of global e-commerce more are set to come aboard. Pfetten said featured without taking big risks. Hearst does own a retail fashion, Ripp said. at Condé Nast and Condé Nast International, Style. items, such as sunglasses from The Row that retail business that holds inventory through Elle Japan, com will be a marketplace in which brands will for $430 and $460, were sold out, as were Edith but Edwards said the publisher would not dupli- s publishers dip — or dive — into the provide information on their products. Style.com A. Miller striped T-shirts for $95. cate that model in other markets, even though he world of commerce, the first thing will handle the transactions, and the fulfillment Although she wouldn’t elaborate on how much noted that the business now makes money. they must decide is which model will be done by the brands. Customers will not be revenue Lucky has garnered since it began, she “Retail is not an easy business to be in,” they will follow. The three gener- directed to the brands’ sites, and Style.com will did provide a breakdown of sales on a percent- Edwards said. “One of the biggest players in the ally accepted paths are the affiliate not charge the brands to appear on the site, Zayan age-basis by category. space, which is to Net-a-porter, is a break-even model;A revenue share, or true retail. said, but the publisher will take a commission on Beauty makes up 20 percent of sales, and business.” The affiliate model is the easiest and most used, the transactions. accounts for 50 percent of the items sold on the “Every women’s fashion magazine will have to Hearst is speaking from experience. In 2011, the but it’s also the least profitable. It entails linking to He declined to provide revenue projections site. Handbags account for 26 percent of sales and publisher’s Esquire magazine partnered with J.C. a retailer’s site from a publication’s one. Publishers or percentages for the new site, which will offer about 10 percent of units sold. Clothing makes address in some way their [business] model.” Penney Co. Inc. to form Clad, an e-commerce site typically receive only 4 to 5 percent of the revenue a range of categories including fashion, beauty, up 25 percent of sales, and 15 percent of units that was owned by the retailer. Esquire produced of each sale. technology and travel, mirroring the range of the sold, while shoes account for 20 percent of sales, Verena von Pfetten, Lucky magazine content and helped create editorial offer- Revenue share is more profitable — sources company’s titles, which he said reach an audience or between 12 and 15 percent of units sold. She ings on the site. After just three months in business, estimated at least three to four times more — but of more than 300 million people monthly. Style. said the average order is up 25 percent month the struggling Clad was shuttered by Penney’s. riskier, as it entails a publisher partnering with a com is the first company that straddles Condé over month, with May set to grow 25 percent in act on the excitement we spark. This is exponen- matchmaking service. Some now-defunct ‘hand- Nor was that the first time Esquire tried to dip retailer through licensing, or developing revenue Nast U.S. and Condé Nast International and he overall sales. tially true in the digital arena where consumers books’ were practicing prostitution journalism.” into e-commerce. That year, Granger created the share deals on products sold. Publishers do not said the publisher is “putting all its global weight When asked why editors should be involved in are looking for even more guidance given the “It would be nice if editors were only free to Esquire Collection, in which the magazine printed carry inventory, however, as they would in the in this venture.” commerce, Pfetten said: “I think in some ways, plethora of options. Who better than the editors edit, but I think in this world where there is so bar codes on its pages to be scanned via mobile third model, which is true retail. That version is Zayan, a former Internet and e-commerce direc- editors are merchandisers.” at InStyle to connect with them to make informed much electronic invasion on editorial product, it phone, allowing users to make instant purchases. the riskiest, as publishers would compete with tor of Galeries Lafayette, added: “We certainly She explained that Lucky had to transition, add- and assured decisions?” is important for editors to say what’s important Granger told WWD at the time: “I’m sure there the very brands and advertisers they feature, do not want editors to become merchandisers, ing: “Every women’s fashion magazine will have Agreeing was Esquire editor in chief David and what isn’t,” said Victor Navasky, director were tens of thousands of scans, but it was too but at the same time it could potentially reap the and the editorial teams of the magazines will not to address in some way their [business] model.” Granger, who was equally as evasive on this eth- for Magazine Journalism at Columbia Journalism complicated and I’m not sure how much product greatest benefits. be recommending products to be sold. We must But some media executives and observers ics issue. “We’ve experimented (and continue to School, where he also serves as professor. we moved. I bet it wasn’t very much.” The revenue-share model has become increas- keep that line between what they do and what contend that leaping that ethical canyon would experiment) with various forms of commerce, and These days, Hearst is focusing on selling ingly popular with publishers, such as People, we’ll do untouched, and they will operate as they undermine any integrity the publication has. the motivation has been the same for each of our s they eye getting deeper and deeper content, something the publisher understands. which works with e-commerce firm Joyous. People have always operated. We want to build Style. Tyler Brûlé, the founder and owner of Mon- experiences and that is: Magazines are really good into commerce, magazine compa- Edwards cited the sale of courses through Hearst’s provides video content and editorial curation, com on the assets of Condé Nast, and these assets ocle, which publishes a magazine and runs an at creating desire — selecting and recommending nies could be trying to take a page Good Housekeeping brand and subscriptions while Joyous is responsible for back-end support. are their authority and influence. This authority e-commerce site, as well as six brick-and-mortar products in such a way that people will be inspired from Net-a-porter Group and its to its CosmoBody fitness channel, although it’s It’s a marriage of convenience, in a sense, which comes, among other things, from their editorial shops, said the line is ever blurry between what to buy them. In various ways, we’ve tried to enable Porter magazine. The title, which was questionable how well those endeavors are going. allows the publishing company to “understand independence.” merchandise belongs on an e-commerce site — and that inspiration to be turned into action,” he said. launchedA in February 2014, has become a symbol “Look, it’s completely understandable why all how content and commerce work together,” said Not that the editors aren’t getting involved. what belongs in an editorial shoot. For her part, Harper’s Bazaar editor in chief for how to seamlessly integrate luxury wares into magazines have been talking about commerce for Joseph LaFalce, executive director of business According to a source, a few weeks ago, Zayan “A lot of people are saying that it doesn’t matter Bailey said: “The role of an editor is to feature the editorial pages. the last 10 years. We have the audience. We bring development digital entertainment for People met with all of Condé Nast’s editors in chief in because magazines have to survive no matter what best fashion and beauty — the fact that our readers “The strength of Porter is the infrastruc- the audience,” Edwards offered. “It’s completely and Entertainment Weekly. Products are featured New York to discuss how the company plans to it takes. It does matter, though, because it starts can buy straight from the page means we’ve made ture,” said Net-a-porter publishing director Tess natural, but our view is to test and try. So far, on People’s StyleWatch site, and according to integrate e-commerce into all of its titles via a to betray the trust of your core readership — and that dream a reality.” MacLeod Smith. “The company has the expertise we’ve found that it’s quite a challenging business LaFalce, the partnership has contributed to the new platform developed by the company. The why are you there in the first place,” he said. “And Even journalism professors, far from raising a and technology. It takes very different skills to — turning that business into a fulfilling business bottom line in a “meaningful way.” He wouldn’t integration will be spearheaded by former Asos I think [debating that] probably eats up a little bit hue and cry, recognize that the shift to magazine publish the magazine and it takes a whole different for the consumer and for us is a difficult job.” ■ comment on how meaningful, but did say the creative director Melissa Dick, who was hired by more time than we’d like, but we have to do it. We commerce is inevitable in today’s landscape. skill set to make e-commerce successful.” — With contributions from David Moin and Julie Naughton

WWD.COM JUNE 2015, No. 1 49 Closed’s jacket, Levi’s shirt and jeans and Filson’s Henley, all in cotton. George Frost necklace; George Frost x Michael Bastian wallet chain.

LONE RANGER The rugged panache of the cowboy comes to life through distressed details, statement leather belts, worn-in bandanas and touches of suede — all of which inject perennial energy into the denim world.

By ALEX BADIA Photographs by BILLY KIDD Pendleton’s wool and cotton vest, G-Star Raw’s cotton jacket, AG’s cotton shirt and 3x1’s cotton jeans. Bailey of Hollywood hat; Saint Laurent belt; George Frost rings. OPPOSITE Tom Ford’s suede jacket, Gucci’s cotton shirt and APC’s cotton jeans. Marc Jacobs blanket; George Frost ring. Polo Ralph Lauren’s jacket, Carhartt Work in Progress’ shirt, Filson’s Henley and True Religion’s jeans, all in cotton. Saint Laurent’s shirt and Baldwin’s jeans, both in cotton. Saint Laurent hat and belt; Boglioli cape; George Frost necklace and rings. OPPOSITE Billy Reid’s cotton and polyester coat, Denim & Supply Ralph Lauren’s cotton jacket, Wrangler’s cotton shirt and Seven For All Mankind’s cotton jeans. Saint Laurent hat; Dan Post boots. Mavi’s shirt, Polo Ralph Lauren’s Henley and Joe’s Jeans’ jeans, all in cotton. Bailey of Hollywood hat; Hermès bracelet; George Frost necklace. OPPOSITE Tom Ford’s suede jacket and cotton Henley and Simon Miller’s cotton jeans. Tom Ford bandana; Will Leather Goods belt; Dan Post boots; Hermès bracelet.

MODEL: MATHIAS LAURIDSEN AT IMG PHOTO ASSISTANTS: BRADLEY ENNIS AND ACKIME SNOW DIGITAL TECH: JULIA COMITA LOCATION: THE KAATERSKILL GROOMING: BRIAN BUENAVENTURA USING ORIBE HAIR CARE AT MANAGEMENT ARTISTS MAKEUP ASSISTANT: RAUL OTERO 00 MONTH 2015, No.1tk WWD.COM FASHION ASSISTANT: LUIS CAMPUZANO Bridget Foley’s Diary Lady Ambassadors

My daughter moved from her native New York to Los Angeles clarify if brand ambassadorships include any abso- lute must-wear occasions, but says the Dior ladies not knowing how to drive. The intelligence therein aside, are not obligated for all big public occasions, and “it’s our challenge to design and propel them. They driving didn’t come easily. Fearful of having to ditch the have their moment. It’s a constant discussion.” While celebrities have their moment, so do fash- comedy-writing dream and move home, defeated by driving ion houses. Raf Simons leads Dior’s current moment and in recent seasons has flexed his modernist (she failed the road test twice) she happened upon the now muscle, respectfully but decisively. Rihanna gives (sadly) defunct Mercedes-Benz Driving Academy the house a personality type it hasn’t had before — and passed the test soon thereafter. During one a high-profile “fashion girl” known for her sartorial early-morning lesson, Grainne marveled to daring far more so than, say, Lawrence, who, despite her instructor Russ about his professionalism going a little more outré at the most recent Met Gala compared with that of her previous instructor. and, despite her youth and adventurous career “We have to be professional,” said Russ. “We’re choices, shows a red-carpet penchant for dressing brand ambassadors.” like it’s 1958. While Cotillard has proven more adven- Brand ambassador. I first heard the handle, or turous than Lawrence, Rihanna plays to a different, at least it first resonated, years ago when W ran broader, younger, more Web-obsessed constituency. a story on a band of Italian socialites recruited by Toledano stresses that each case represents a Giorgio Armani. I found it hilarious — the silliest, relationship. In retrospect, Rihanna’s appearance best nonjob in the world. A decade-plus later the at last year’s Dior 2015 resort show in Brooklyn, term resides firmly within the professional lexicon the most recent of several Dior shows she’s taken as legitimately as any job title, particularly at the in, was something of a foreshadowing, the hottest luxury sector, as the response from the Mercedes cool girl on the planet adding street cred to one of instructor suggests. the most deified names in fashion, as it used the Official brand ambassadors are all around us, Navy Yard for a launchpad for Simons’ increasing utilized nowhere with greater resonance than at bravado. Though unusually demure in girlish pink, Dior, which recently welcomed a newcomer into Toledano notes that “she was super modern, wear- its fold. With the launch of her “Secret Garden” “I see Charlize doing it her ing Dior and the attitude.” video, Rihanna joins Marion Cotillard and Jennifer Translation: a brand ambassador must be more Lawrence touting Dior Couture (with crossover way and Marion, her way than just a pretty face, she must have an attitude presenting sponsor | MASTERCARD into accessories) as well as Dior Parfums’ Charlize that will translate on-screen and in print. Cotillard Theron and Natalie Portman. These women appear and Rihanna, hers. But had the idea to do a mini movie. She said early on, in ads, online films, at fashion shows (though there’s always femininity “I’m not a model. I want a story in your campaign.” Portman, not so much), and when the stakes are The results were impressive scripted films directed highest, wearing Dior to mega photo-op events. and elegance.” Sidney Toledano by the likes of David Lynch and John Cameron More often than not, they get laudatory reviews. Mitchell. “Everything was a discussion between Created by , Built for you. And as their Dior-bedecked images are beamed Marion and the directors,” says Toledano. Lynch’s WWD the world over, there’s typically no mention of on Instagram all day. Snapchat, Instagram, You- 2011 “Lady Blue Shanghai” is 15 minutes of fabu- contractual obligation. Tube. The reaction is on the speed of light. That is lous, with Cotillard acting up a storm. This type of brand ambassadorship spawned a big change now.” Leap four years later, to the recently released from the symbiotic fascination that’s gone all hot Another big change involves not a new medium “Secret Garden IV,” directed by Steven Klein, and and steamy between fashion and celebrity over but an old one — money. Today’s ambassadors are Rihanna sizzles silently but for her “Only If For a the past 15 or so years. But Sidney Toledano, chief under contract. Before, says Toledano, “the process Night” on the soundtrack. “It’s charisma,” Toledano executive office of Dior, maintains that the concept didn’t have the agents and lawyers. It was more says. “There was a period of models, in the Nineties, isn’t new. He points out that Dior maintained such direct contact with the director of a movie and the when we had Carla, Naomi, Kate, they were ambas- celebrity relationships by the time he arrived at the actresses themselves attending the show.” sadors as well, even on the runway, because they house 21 years ago. It’s unlikely that the viewing/reading/Web-search- had the personalities. Then we had the actresses He notes that the basic idea goes back even ing and ultimately shopping public cares that a con- representing and inspiring the designers. For a further. “Monsieur himself had the Princess [Mar- tract is involved. Obviously, consumers understand brand like Dior, we need people like that.” garet],” he says. Major Golden Age actresses — Mar- advertising, and respond to its aspirational appeal. Rihanna infuses the Dior image with a welcomed lene Dietrich, Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Whether it resonates at the Oscars, Met Gala or shot of edge, “another music, another face, another Kelly, Lauren Bacall — were Dior acolytes as well, wherever, that the celebrity may have been con- name to the brand,” Toledano says. He argues often wearing the house’s clothes to high-profile tractually obligated to wear something is of little that women with vastly different personalities and events, in their personal lives and in their films, consequence. If viewers like the way an actress images express Dior’s range. “I see Charlize doing it sometimes at their own request. What’s different looks in a dress, most could not care less about the her way and Marion, her way and Rihanna, hers,” today is the scope of coverage. “Now, obviously particulars that informed its selection. Certainly he says. “But there’s always femininity and ele- with the press and the Internet, [the impact] is most actresses make a point of not limiting them- gance, and wearing the dresses in fantastic ways.” summits.wwd.com huge,” Toledano says. “Take the last campaign selves to the brands they represent; for example, Whether the contractual aspect of such expres- with Rihanna. Instagram — it was on, everywhere. no one wears the same label to the Golden Globes sion detracts at all is at this point academic. The ATTEND: [email protected], 646.356.4722 SPONSOR: [email protected], 646.356.4718 In the Fifties the response was not worldwide and as to the Oscars. public has spoken: It loves looking at images of immediate. It was a few people in a movie, or in Asked whether its brand ambassadors must wear fabulous women wearing fabulous clothes, and some fashion magazine. Today, young people are Dior to major events, Toledano hedges. He won’t if they’re paid to zip up that dress, who cares? ■ EVENT FAIRCHILD SPONSORS SUMMITS 60 JUNE 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM ANNUAL PARTNERS ARE ARE THEY Echo Park Echo Park Williamsburg Echo Park Williamsburg WEARING

ECHO PARK VS. WILLIAMSBURG Echo Park Williamsburg Echo Park Williamsburg Two neighborhoods, one in Los Angeles and the other in New York, are popular spots to congregate, caffeinate or walk a four-legged friend — all while wearing outfits that complement creative ink and summer’s must-have eyewear. Which has the edge when it comes to urban style? We Echo Park, L.A. observed. You decide. Williamsburg, N.Y. Williamsburg Echo Park Williamsburg Echo Park Photographs by KATIE JONES and MORRIGAN MAZA

62 JUNE 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM WWD.COM JUNE 2015, No. 1 63 REMEMBER MARKETPLACE

Roses & Maxway Stores Calendar PATTERNS, SAMPLES, HUMAN RESOURCES Accessories  #! # !#!## !#   PRODUCTIONS Summit  # """"""" ###
## Foley to Vestaire        
 O The Accessories Council will FOR WOMEN, MEN O Resale marketplace Vestaire host its first summit on July 27 AND CHILDRENS WEAR has brought on Kate Foley as its at LIM College in New York. The U.S. contributing fashion director. event will be held in partnership VENDOR CLOSEOUT A Full Service Shop To The Trade The company, founded in France with the college, The NPD Group Fine Fast Work 212-869-2699 in 2009, launched in the U.S. last and WWD. Speakers include year and is headquartered in SHOW! Ivanka Trump, Dominique Ansel Manhattan’s Chelsea neighbor- (inventor of the cronut), costume hood. Foley, who is a stylist and a designers Dan Lawson and     former Opening Ceremony buyer, Jenn Rogien, Karen Harvey and will work on creative content and Accessories Council president 
    bolster Vestaire’s VIP program. Karen Giberson. The all-day affair will conclude with a toast CALIFORNIA MARKET CENTER to Ed Jankowski, head of Luxot- From Breaking tica’s North American luxury SHOWROOM 6C division, who is the Council’s 2015 Hall of Fame honoree. 110 East Ninth Street Fashion News Parachuting In Los Angeles, California 90079 to The Industry’s Call Anita Thomasson for appointment O Designers and artists will descend on the newly built One 252.430.2051 Top Stories Santa Fe mixed-use project in Thousands are expected to visit the stands at Art Basel in Switzerland June 18 to 21. downtown Los Angeles’ Arts District for the biannual WWD.com Delivers Parachute Market. Talking Birchbox Spotlight on Basel The design fest culls its fea- Access to Timely O Beauty subscription service OThe art world will soon be flocking to Basel, Switzerland’s third- tured exhibitors from the Birchbox has named Claire Paull local design community for a Content Anywhere its first chief communications largest city, for the annual Art Basel extravaganza, running June 18 to “pop-up” art and retail event June officer. Paull has been at the 21. The show, which since its creation in 1970 has spawned Miami and 6 and 7. Quincy Jones Produc- SEE WHAT’S FIRST You Are almost five-year-old company tions partnered with Parachute since 2011, and previously held Hong Kong offshoots, has become a fixture for aficionados, benefiting on a June 5 preview featuring IN FASHION. Subscribe to WWD.com today the role of vice president of from the city’s easy access on the border with France and Germany, jazz pianist Alfredo Rodriguez public relations and strategic and a screening of “Synesthesia.” JOIN MORE THAN 100K+ PEOPLE partnerships. She’s been instru- and its recently extended, but still very central, exhibition halls. Calling Exhibitors include Welcome WHO FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM. mental in key initiatives, including itself the “premier international art show of its kind,” Art Basel 2015 will Projects, Knibb Design, Reform the brand’s men’s launch, Gallery and Matin. international expansion and the focus on contemporary and 20th-century works, exhibiting paintings, retail store opening in New York’s sculpture, drawings, installations, photographs and video. Economic Updates SoHo. O The federal government Some 90,000 art lovers are expected linked cultural events. One showstopper releases two key economic Caspersen to visit the stands of 284 galleries from this year is the Gauguin exhibition at the indicators this week. On June 3, Joins HBC the U.S., Latin America, Europe, Asia and Beyeler Foundation — a private collection in the U.S. Commerce Department Africa — 33 countries in all. On display will a leafy city suburb. While this year’s visitors reports on foreign trade, reveal- O Hudson’s Bay Co. has ing the nation’s trade deficit be works by more than 4,000 artists. To to Basel might be disappointed to find the appointed Dan Caspersen and shifts in apparel and textile FASHION. BEAUTY. BUSINESS. executive vice president of make it easier to navigate, the event is split city’s Kunstmuseum — one of Europe’s fore- imports for April, while on June 5, human resources, succeeding into eight “sectors” based on media, artists most public art galleries — closed for a lav- Editorial Calendar the Labor Department posts May Stephen Cerrone. or galleries. ish refit and extension, the Gauguin at the employment data, updating the Caspersen will report directly Art Basel invariably fills the city’s hotels Beyeler’s intimate, Renzo Piano-designed unemployment rate and national to the office of the chairman, and restaurants and prompts countless building should compensate. — HAIG SIMONIAN and industry job figures. which consists of Richard ISSUE: June 10 ISSUE: June 17 ISSUE: June 24 Baker, executive chairman and governor, and Jerry Storch, chief executive officer. OBITUARY Denim In Depth. Domestic Trade Show Calendar. Beauty Berlin Fashion Week Previously, Caspersen was senior vice president of human Pitti Uomo. Summit ReCap. Fragrance Foundation Awards. Preview. resources for the Miami Dol- George Melvin Ivey Jr., 91 phins. Earlier, he oversaw global London Fashion Week. Men’s Milan Preview. O George Melvin Ivey Jr., a re- reenrolled in Duke and graduated chairman of J.B. Ivey & Co. and CLOSE June 10 human resources at Toys ‘R’ Us, tailer who expanded his grandfa- from there in 1947. Ivey Properties Co., favored where he led all h.r. functions, ther’s Charlotte, N.C., department Ivey moved to Greenville, S.C., high-end women’s and men’s CLOSE May 27 CLOSE June 3 including staffing, employee store chain, died May 21 after to start his lifelong career with clothing. Ivey traveled with his MATERIALS June 15 relations, training, development, being hospitalized for a variety J.B. Ivey & Co., the department buyers to markets in Paris, MATERIALS June 1 MATERIALS June 8 compensation and benefits for of illnesses at Carolinas Medical store founded in 1900 by his London and Milan. more than 20 countries world- Center. He was 91 years old. grandfather, J.B. Ivey. Ivey’s Charlotte location was wide. He was also responsible Ivey, who was born and raised Ivey’s vision for the company the grand dame of the southern for corporate communications in Charlotte, attended Duke led him to expand in the Sixties Piedmont shopping district with and the consolidation of Toys ‘R’ University in 1941. He interrupted and Seventies from downtown its ornate facade and arched Us and Babies ‘R’ Us. Before Toys his freshman year to serve for centers to regional shopping windows. Ivey knew the retail ISSUE: July 8 ISSUE: July 15 ISSUE: July 22 ‘R’ Us, Caspersen spent 25 years three years in the Naval ROTC in malls in North Carolina, South landscape was changing, and at Target Corp. developing and the Atlantic and Pacific Theaters Carolina and Florida. with no heirs interested in carry- implementing cross-company during World War II. After he Ivey, who held the titles ing on the business, he sold the NY Men’s Fashion New York Fashion Accessories In Focus. human resources practices. returned from military service, he of director, president and chain in 1980 to Marshall Field’s. Week Preview Week: Mens. CLOSE July 8

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64 JUNE 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM For advertising inquiries, please contact Shannon Fitzgerald | 323-617-9094 | [email protected] WWD.COM JUNE 3, 2015 65 FINALE Bonanza! O By the time the mid-Eighties rolled around, “Bonanza” had long been off the airwaves, but that didn’t keep Ralph Lauren from building his own Ponderosa — a 10,000-acre ranch known as Double RL in Colorado. Here, WWD visited him in 1985 in full cowboy regalia. “When I watched the movies or read the books, I only saw the purity of the West,” said Lauren at the time. For our photographer George Chinsee, it was a lesson in haute homesteading. “Ralph wanted to put a split-rail fence around the perimeter of the ranch, and it’s a fairly large property that backs up against a reserve,” Chinsee recalls. “He got a call from his accountant, who said, ‘Do you realize how much money you’ve spent already? Just stop!’”

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FAIRCHILD MEDIA Photograph by George Chinsee George by Photograph FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR [email protected] 66 JUNE 2015, No. 1 WWD.COM