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Universidade De Brasília Faculdade De Comunicação Programa De Pós-Graduação Em Comunicação

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Universidade De Brasília Faculdade De Comunicação Programa De Pós-Graduação Em Comunicação UNIVERSIDADE DE BRASÍLIA FACULDADE DE COMUNICAÇÃO PROGRAMA DE PÓS-GRADUAÇÃO EM COMUNICAÇÃO TRANS TÁ NA MODA? REPRESENTAÇÃO DE IDENTIDADES E PESSOAS TRANS NO JORNALISMO DE MODA Taya Carneiro Silva de Queiroz Brasília Março de 2019 UNIVERSIDADE DE BRASÍLIA FACULDADE DE COMUNICAÇÃO PROGRAMA DE PÓS-GRADUAÇÃO EM COMUNICAÇÃO TRANS TÁ NA MODA? REPRESENTAÇÃO DE IDENTIDADES E PESSOAS TRANS NO JORNALISMO DE MODA Taya Carneiro Silva de Queiroz Trabalho apresentado à Banca Examinadora de Exame de Dissertação, como requisito para obtenção do grau de Mestre em Comunicação. Orientadora: Prof.ª Dr.ª Fernanda Martinelli Brasília Março de 2019 Taya Carneiro Silva De Queiroz Trans Tá Na Moda?: representação de identidades e pessoas trans no jornalismo de moda Brasília, março de 2019 Exame de dissertação de mestrado avaliado pela seguinte Banca Examinadora: ________________________________ Prof.ª. Drª Fernanda Casagrande Martinelli Lima Granja Xavier da Silva (Orientadora) (Universidade de Brasília) ________________________________ Prof.ª. Drª Fabíola Calazans Examinadora (Universidade de Brasília) ________________________________ Prof.ª. Drª Tatiana Lionço Examinadora (Universidade de Brasília) ________________________________ Prof.ª. Msª Priscila Borges Suplente (IBRAM) Para todas as travestis ridicularizadas pelo jornalismo. Para todas as pessoas trans que disputam diariamente sua verdade. Para Lea T, uma pioneira corajosa. AGRADECIMENTOS Agradeço à Lua Stabile, por ter me acompanhado e debatido comigo durante todo o processo de construção desta pesquisa, e por ter dado suporte emocional nos momentos mais difíceis. À Maria Léo Araruna, por não ter me deixado desistir. Ao Bernardo Mota, que me ajudou a nomear importantes processos de violência simbólica percebidos na representação. À CAPES, por ter me fornecido uma bolsa de estudos essencial. Ao transfeminismo e o movimento trans brasileiro, por produzirem ideias, conhecimentos e categorias centrais ao desenvolvimente deste trabalho. Seus livros de anatomia, suas regras de classificação não são suficientes para a minha compreensão. Sou mais que um binômio. Não sou ela versus ele. Tampouco menos gente, sequer menos ilusão. (Marcelo Caetano, ativista transmasculino) RESUMO Este trabalho objetiva analisar a representação de pessoas e identidades trans – compreendidas por transexuais, transgêneros e travestis (esta última eminentemente brasileira) – em matérias jornalistícas das versões online das revistas Vogue e Elle dos Estados Unidos, e Vogue Brasil, desde 2010 até o ano de 2015. Tendo como base tais publicações hegemônicas no campo da moda, objetivamos compreender abordagens comuns e recorrentes que constroem e reproduzem estereótipos, transformando as multifacetadas e complexas identidades em simplificações culturais. Considera-se nesta análise que o jornalismo de moda tem como objetivo central a construção de sonhos de consumo em um universo “limpo” e ordenado, higienizando a diferença com fins de mercantilizá-la. Problematiza-se este tipo visibilidade questionando como identidades que são alvo histórico de controle institucional e marginalização chegam a ser associadas com o mercado de consumo, e, paradoxalmente, com o luxo da alta costura. Que narrativa sobre tais identidades e pessoas é privilegiada neste processo? Quais são as condições para tal associação? O que permanece e o que é modificado quanto aos significados propagados culturalmente pelos estereótipos? Neste percurso analítico destaca-se a inclusão da modelo transexual brasileira Lea T em uma campanha de alta costura da grife francesa Givenchy em 2010. Este evento é situado como um marco temporal tanto por se tratar da primeira vez em que uma modelo trans alcançou protagonismo midiático no campo da moda quanto por delimitar, propriamente, o início da representação das identidades trans no jornalismo de moda. Já no ano de 2014 percebe-se um outro marco a ser destacado, tratando-se da estrita associação entre identidades e pessoas trans com o ativismo identitário focado na discussão sobre “discriminação” e “inclusão”, sendo a política identitária condicional para o início de uma ampliação exponencial deste tipo de representação. Esse processo históricamente localizado embasa disputas culturais acerca da transgeneridade que se refletem e se efetivam também no jornalismo de moda. Palavras-chave: Moda; Jornalismo; Identidades Trans; Pessoas Trans; Gênero. ABSTRACT This work aims to analyze the representation of trans people and identities - understood as transsexuals, transgenders and travestis (the last one can only be applied to Brazil and some others latin countries) - which were themes for news stories in online versions of american Vogue and Elle and Vogue Brasil, from 2010 until 2015. Based on such hegemonic publications in the field of fashion, we aim to understand common and recurrent approaches that construct and reproduce stereotypes, transforming the multifaceted and complex identities into cultural simplifications. It is considered in this analysis that fashion journalism has as its central objective the construction of dreams of consumption in a "clean" and ordered universe, sanitizing the difference with the purpose of commodifying it. Thus, this type of visibility is questioned at how identities that are a historical target of institutional control and marginalization get to be associated with the fashion consumer market, and, paradoxically, the luxury of haute couture. What narrative about such identities and persons is privileged in this process? What are the conditions for such an association? What remains and what is modified about the culturally shared meanings of stereotypes? In this analytical course, the inclusion of Brazilian transsexual model Lea-T in a couture campaign of the French brand Givenchy in 2010 is highlighted. This event is situated as a time frame both because it is the first time a trans model has had such mediatic protagonism in the field of fashion, as it delimit, properly, the beginning of representation of trans identities in fashion journalism. In 2014, another milestone can be highlighted: the association between trans identities and people with an activism focused on the discussion of "discrimination" and "inclusion". Being the identity politics conditional to the beginning of an exponential expansion of this type of representation. Nevertheless, we speak of a localized historical process in which fashion journalism reflects and produces broad cultural disputes about what the magazines call transness. Keywords: Fashion; Journalism; Trans Identities; Trans people; Gender. LISTA DE FIGURAS Figura 1 Tailleur Bar, um dos conjuntos mais celebrados da coleção. 39 Figura 2 Lea T., segunda da direita para esquerda, na campanha publicitária 58 Outuno-Inverno 2010 da Givenchy. Figura 3 “Lea, nascida novamente”(tradução livre) 60 Figura 4 “Coleção de alta-costura outono-inverno da Givenchy, 2010. Lea T 64 é a terceira da direita para esquerda.” Figura 5 Lea T e Kate Moss na capa da revista Love Magazine 68 Figura 6 Ilustração do corpo de Saartje Baartman e ilustração de alemão 72 observando seu corpo. Figura 7 Eddie Charles (direita), com seu irmão Matthew. Edie usa J. 88 Mendel e Manolo Blahnik. Matthew usa suas próprias roupas. Figura 8 Eve Lindley (direita), com seu pai Brad. Eve usa Bottega Veneta e 89 Brad usa suas próprias roupas. Figura 9 Gisele Xtravaganza (deitada) com sua mãe, Gisela, e seu primo, 89 Carlos. Gisele usa Cédric Charlier. Gisela e Carlos usam suas próprias roupas. Figura 10 Trevon, à esquerda, e Maxie, no centro, Ryley Pogensky, à direita. 90 Maxie (centro) é retratada usando Dolce & Gabbana. Trevon e Ryley usam suas próprias roupas. Figura 11 Katie e Arin são retratados usando Ann Demeulemeester. 92 Figura 12 Ashley de la Cruz retratado com Valentijn de Hingh. Ashley usa 93 suas próprias roupas. Valentijn usa Juan Carlos Obando. Figura 13 Entrevista de Janet Mock à Piers Morgan. 108 Figura 14 Capa frontal da Candy 113 Figura 15 Capa completa aberta com as 14 mulheres trans destacadas. 113 Figura 16 Hari Nef, foto publicada na entrevista para a Vogue. 117 Figura 17 Laverne Cox na capa da revista Time. 126 Figura 18 Capa da Vanity Fair de Caitlyn Jenner. 147 SUMÁRIO INTRODUÇÃO 12 Estrutura da pesquisa 15 Problema Error! Bookmark not defined. Objetivos Error! Bookmark not defined. CAPÍTULO I – REFERENCIAL TEÓRICO-METODOLÓGICO: ANÁLISE DE REPRESENTAÇÃO NO JORNALISMO DE MODA 20 1.1 A política da representação midiática e a construção do estereótipo 25 1.2 O corpus: revistas Vogue e Elle 29 1.3 Jornalismo de moda e o universo dos sonhos de consumo femininos 31 1.4 A prática de representação no jornalismo de moda: higienização da diferença, eliminação da subversão 36 CAPÍTULO II – ENTRE CRIME, PATOLOGIA E POLÍTICA: A CONSTRUÇÃO DOS ESTERÉOTIPOS DAS IDENTIDADES TRANS 43 2.1 O estereótipo criminal 43 2.2 O estereótipo patológico 52 2.3 O estereótipo político 55 CAPÍTULO III – A NOVA TRANS E A NOVA ANDROGINIA 59 3.1 Laverne Cox, quem? 67 3.2 Lea T como celebridade na Vogue Brasil e o fetichismo na representação 69 3.3 Lea T, Andreja Pejic, “nova androginia”, ou “as lindas mulheres que nasceram homens” 76 3.4 Laura Jane Grace, a primeira celebridade a “anunciar” a transição e o prenúncio da mudança de narrativa 82 CAPÍTULO IV – A CAMPANHA DA BARNEYS NY: O LUXO SE ASSOCIA ÀS IDENTIDADES TRANS 84 4.1 Binarismo de gênero e elitização: desconstrução da feiura, validação da beleza 92 4.2 Emotividade e vitimização: identificação com o expectador 97 CAPÍTULO V – A ASCENDÊNCIA DAS NARRATIVAS
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