Desert Heat Sandy Neutrals and Intricate Weavings Take on a Sultry Air for Resort

Home , Proenza Schouler, Supercute

Go Big And Go Bold WWDAccessories BEHIND THE QUEEN MACHINE L AN INSIDE LOOK AT “PRISCILLA QUEEN OF THE DESERT” WITH COSTUME DESIGNER LIZZY GARDINER. Sec. II PAGE 9

Vince Camuto’s leather sandal.

Z Spoke’s goat leather handbag.

Loefﬂ er Randall’s calfskin sandal. WWDMONDAY, JULY 18, 2011 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Desert Heat Sandy neutrals and intricate weavings take on a sultry air for resort. For more, see pages 4 and 5.

Echo Design’s viscose and Lurex wrap.

Meredith Wendell’s lamé and cotton purse.

PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; STYLED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT

IN WWD TODAY LOURDES OF THE MANOR Making a Case PAGE 2 LEGAL: Members of the industry spoke before Congress Friday, looking to further a bill protecting copyrights and original ideas. Material Girl’s World Grows Topshop’s New Niche PAGE 4 FASHION: The retailer readies a new With New Lines at Macy’s line called Dress Up, featuring elaborate, embellished pieces in fi ne silks and serves as a public face of the brand and helps satin with beading and sequins. By DAVID LIPKE oversee creative direction and design. “The body products have fun names like Wicked Harajuku for the Kids PAGE 8 MACY’S SHOPPERS will be living in a big- Watermelon, Flirty Fruit, Midnight Magnolia FASHION: Target is partnering with Gwen ger Material Girl world come fall. and Sinful Sugar. I chose scents that I loved.” Stefani to give babies, children and tweens Madonna, Iconix Brand Group Inc. and The move into new categories for Material a taste of Stefani’s anime-inspired sensibility with Harajuku Mini. L Macy’s, all partners in the juniors brand, are Girl comes as Macy’s expands the brand’s foot- launching a range of new product categories, print. Material Girl will be in 300 Macy’s doors including beauty, intimates and sleepwear, this fall, up from 200 at its initial launch last and expanded programs in denim, outerwear August and 250 this past spring. As of July 2, and social dresses. there were 805 Macy’s stores in the U.S. The fi rst beauty offerings, which include Macy’s declined to provide total sales fi g- nail polish, lip gloss, body sprays and lotions ures for Material Girl, but Martine Reardon, will be in Macy’s stores Aug. 15, with eye pal- executive vice-president of marketing and ettes arriving on Sept. 15. The intimates and advertising, said the line was performing sleepwear are hitting stores this week, the well. “If you walk onto the sales fl oor, you’ll denim will be available on Aug. 15, social see how prominent a positioning it has on our dresses Sept. 15 and outerwear on Oct. 15. juniors fl oor. It is one of our top-fi ve brands “It was so much fun getting to pick all of in juniors,” she noted. “We are focusing on my favorite scents for the Material Girl body this youth consumer with fast-fashion that is products and lip glosses,” said Lourdes “Lola” trend-right and extremely affordable.” Leon, Madonna’s 14-year-old daughter who SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD monday, july 18, 2011 WWD.COM Industry Testifies on Piracy What’s Next for Halston? because, unfortunately, it is currently new capital into the halston busi- By KrisTi eLLis legal under U.s. law to pirate a design… By Marc KariMzadeh ness. some industry observers are

[even one] that is a key to our business,” and Lisa LocKwood wondering, however, if that’s enough washiNGToN — The council of Fashion hernandez said. to keep the brand operating. designers of america and the american rep. Bob Goodlatte (r., Va.), chairman New YorK — can halston pull it- although the late halston is apparel & Footwear association came to of the subcommittee, who introduced the self back together again, following considered a major influence in the halls of congress on Friday trying to ad- legislation this week, asked hernandez to the brand’s executive implosion late american fashion history, his reign vance a bill known as the “innovative design address assertions of critics of the bill that last week? in the late seventies was relatively

Protection and Piracy Prevention act” that nothing is truly original because all design This will be the next major hurdle short. The brand has been plagued would put more teeth into copyright protec- is derivative. for halston parent hilco consumer with challenges since those days, tion for fashion creations, claiming design “[critics] believe that unfettered copying capital LLc now that it has bought and numerous attempts to revive the piracy and knockoffs are stifling innovation. and access drives the fashion cycle and results out its two highest-profile executives, label — with designers randolph if enacted, the bill in more creativity,” harvey weinstein and sarah Jessica duke, Kevan hall, craig Natiello, would cover “deliber- Goodlatte said. Parker, as reported. Both weinstein Piyawat Pattanapuckdee, Bradley ate copies that are sub- i n response, and Parker had equity in the halston Bayou and Marco’’ zanini — failed. stantially identical to hernandez said: “The business, which now is believed to be That said, several fashion execu- the protected designs” problem is someone owned entirely by hilco. tives said the halston moniker still and would provide pro- copying, stitch for with rumors of clashes between has some resonance, particularly

tection for three years. ouri stitch, what we have board members, industry sources with Baby Boomers. all designs created S already created. There said hilco now needs a strong lead- “i have great faith in halston in the public domain Man is a big difference be- er to undo the damage of the past but not with what they [hilco] have prior to enactment of el tween being inspired four years and to start rebuilding been doing with it,” david wolfe, cre- ine

the bill would be ex- SS by something and copy- the brand. Ben Malka, president of ative director of trend forecasting empt and protection Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough, ya ing something.” BcBG Max azria Group, is said to be firm doneger Group, said. “i think extends automatically Shirley Cook and Lazaro Hernandez. he added that he close to joining halston to head up the name can be resuscitated but it to designs, without hav- hoto by believes copyright the heritage business and possibly would cost a lot of money, because at ing to register them. a P protection has “not handle other responsibilities, ac- this point you have to educate a new “heightened pleading standard” in the mea- caught up with technology” that allows cording to sources. Malka denied he generation of consumers. sure requires a plaintiff in a lawsuit to prove knock-off artists to reproduce designs over was joining halston Friday. the design is “protectable, substantially the internet quickly. Malka took over the presidency identical” and that the defendant had access “There has been a disconnect there,” of BcBG in 2001. Before that he was to, or was aware of, the “protected design.” hernandez said. president of the company’s footwear I think the name Lazaro hernandez, designer and a part- rep. Mel watt, (d., N.c.) asked propo- and accessories division. he did a ner of Proenza schouler, testified before the nents of the bill for a list of instructions that stint at medical school before pursu- can be resuscitated house Judiciary subcommittee on intellectual would be given to 12 jurors “that defines ing his passion for fashion and busi- Property, competition and the internet on be- clearly the distinction between inspired by… ness. according to sources, Malka is but it would cost a half of the cFda, outlining how his business and substantially identical.” very well connected in the investment has been damaged by copyists who are able “The proof in a case is going to rely on 12 banking world and is considered a to reproduce a runway design in a matter of uneducated, unsophisticated design people solid operator and strategist. should lot of money. a few days, before Proenza schouler even re- making those kinds of distinctions,” watt a deal be finalized, he would come to — DaviD Wolfe, ceives its first order for the original design. said. “Unless that can clearly be drawn, you halston with a strong background in Doneger group “The fashion industry is already a tough are just going to have endless litigation and the contemporary category, which will business and it is getting tougher because of that is a concern i have.” be instrumental in building heritage. piracy,” hernandez told lawmakers. Kurt courtney, manager of government as reported on wwd.com on “i don’t think any money has been he said it takes tens of thousands of dol- relations for the aaFa, said the “substan- Friday, hilco also isn’t renewing its spent in the rebirthing of the label,” lars to start a business and even more to sus- tially identical” standard is tight and a “very contract with London-based Marios wolfe added. “i think it needs massive tain it. Proenza schouler produces four col- high threshold when compared against nev- schwab, and is axing the main col- advertising to help bring it back to the lections a year at a cost of about $3.8 million, er-before-seen fashion articles.” lection he designed, to focus on the position it had in its glory days. if you hernandez said. The typical cost of a fashion courtney also dismissed the argument the less expensive halston heritage line. talk to the average fashion consumer, show runs about $320,000. bill would open the door to frivolous lawsuits it was unclear at press time whether she most likely isn’t aware that there “our designs are born in our imagination. — a position held by christopher sprigman, the company would deliver schwab’s have been attempts to revive the label. we create something from nothing at all,” a University of Virginia school of Law pro- fall halston collection to stores. it it’s been done at such a low profile.” hernandez said. “By far the majority of ap- fessor who opposes the bill and who testified will not be producing the designer The contemporary heritage line parel is based on garments already in the — saying the heightened pleading process collection for spring. Tamara Mellon, made more of a splash, with an estimat- public domain. Nothing about the proposed places the burden squarely on the plaintiff who had initially brought halston to ed distribution at more than 500 doors. legislation will change that. Nobody will ever to show that the design is original, the defen- weinstein’s attention and was on the Kim Vernon, president’’ and ceo of be able to claim ownership of the T-shirt or dant’s design is “substantially identical” and board, is also said to no longer be as- Vernon co., a brand consultant, said pencil skirt. This bill is intended to protect proof that the defendant had some access to sociated with the brand. heritage could grow into a viable only those designs that are truly original.” the design before infringing on it. richard Kaye, executive vice business for hilco, “provided they hernandez told the committee that one Jeannie suk, a harvard Law school pro- president and chief marketing offi- find and accept someone with expe- of Proenza schouler’s most popular designs fessor who supports the bill, said it “rewards cer at hilco Trading, hilco consumer rience in the industry who can be a — the Ps1 satchel — has been knocked off designers who produce original work with capital’s parent company, didn’t re- leader and stay focused on delivering repeatedly. legal protection against copyists but lim- turn a phone call Friday seeking the right product at the right price. “we have attempted to assert our rights its frivolous litigation through heightened comment about the future of halston. i think they still have time to turn it to fight this piracy, but without success pleading requirements.” hilco just pumped $7.5 million in around and get it on track.”

toDay on WWD.CoM To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, seCtors in this issue The address is [email protected], using The individual’s name. ■ EYESCOOP: Reports from the WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT FASHIOn 1,2,4,8,10,11 ACCESSORIES 6-7 Saint James Bastille Day party, ©2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. GOVERnMEnt 2 MEdIA 9 VOLUME 202, NO. 11. MONDAY, JULY 18, 2011. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily plus more photos from the Dolce (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, November REtAIL 4,8 EYE 12 and December, two additional issues in February, March, April and August and three additional & Gabbana fete, as well as issues in September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance “Priscilla Queen of the Desert.” Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared ■ RESORt 2012 tREnd: Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer Daily Quote Everything Old Is New and Fashion & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at Rehab: Bedtime Stories at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada WWD.com/eyescoop. Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, I feel almost Sicilian when I wear ■ FASHIOn: More looks from ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, the latest Material Girl collection ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North for Macy’s and Miu Miu’s Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give Dolce & Gabbana, like a proper Shanghai event at both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office

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4 WWD monday, july 18, 2011 WWD.COM Topshop’s Evening Element on the sleeves and hem; a strapless pink By sHaRON eDelsON confection with tiny pleats, tiers of ruffles, black ribbon and overlapping seashell- TOPsHOP’s NeW collection, Dress Up, shaped fabric on the bodice and a gold should do well in its flagship in las Vegas sequin dress with black leopard spots. opening in March. It does, after all, fea- Green said lease negotiations are ture sequins. taking place at several locations simul- “Dress Up, is just that: very elabo- taneously. “We’re still looking at some- rate, embellished pieces in fine silks and thing else in New york, as well as los satin with beading and sequins,” said angeles and Miami,” he said. las Vegas’ sir Philip Green, the owner of arcadia economic difficulties haven’t given him Group, parent company of Topshop and much pause. “every city’s been through a its men’s counterpart, Topman. “It will downturn,” he said. “There’s a lot of local probably do quite well in las Vegas, people. There’s still sufficient people in where we’ll have a bigger assortment of the city.” Besides, the las Vegas unit “is ‘going out’ apparel. Dresses is one of our a fairly large store, but it’s not 100,000 strongest areas and evening shoes is also square feet like the london flagship.” one of our strongest sellers. We’ll buy Topshop, which opened a flagship in deeper into those categories. ” Manhattan’s soHo in 2009, is learning Cocktail dresses from Topshop’s new Dress Up collection. The flagship, which will have 180 feet what New yorkers want. “They like to of frontage, will cost $8 million to $10 stay in fashion,” he said. “We’re not sell- tomer base. We did one in the Hamptons on probably linked to the Toronto Film million to build, Green said. ing T-shirts and jeans. Trends is what June 18 for customers that don’t necessarily Festival, sept. 7 to 18. While Dress Up seems tailor-made they want to buy. We’ve got people on the make it to the [soHo] store.” Topshop/Topman will be enter- for the las Vegas unit, Green said “there ground in las Vegas and Chicago. We’re The Chicago store will have two en- ing Brazil in February or March and was a hole in the market for all of our doing our homework.” trances, one on North Michigan avenue australia is also on tap. Green said he’s customers. When we were figuring out a Topshop/Topman flagship at 830 North and another on Pearson street. about 100 negotiating to open stores in Mexico. something new to introduce, [we found] Michigan avenue is scheduled to open exclusive pieces are being designed for He’s also found a site for a new flagship there was something our customer was on sept. 7 or 8. “It would be nice to have the store, including two suits, one in black in the U.K., near West Ham and the 2012 missing, a cocktail dress at a $120 price Mrs. Obama as a customer,” Green said, lace and the other in yellow and black. london Olympic Park. “It’s exciting to point or a long silk gown you could wear but added that he’s made no outreach to The opening of a Toronto flagship is open in places where you’ve never op- to a wedding for $350.” her. “We’re definitely looking to do pop-up being slightly delayed until the second erated before,” he said, “going into new Dress Up has several distinctly Vegas- stores in Chicago and las Vegas. It’s good week in september due to building is- territories, learning new things, learn- like offerings such as a multicolored for familiarizing customers with the brand. sues, Green said. Topshop/Topman re- ing about new markets.” Referring to sequin dress with stars and geometric If you do it off-site, in an area that’s not cently opened a pop-up shop there, so las Vegas, he added: “I’ve wanted some- shapes and multicolored beaded fringes near the store, you can reach a new cus- Green wants to do something different, where else where I can stay up late.”

A rendering of Cosabella’s Miu Miu: Stylized in Shanghai New York flagship. there’s nothing minimalist about it,” sprague told By Casey Hall WWD ahead of the event. “It’s fun and a bit magi- cal, you’re kind of on this flying carpet up here in sHaNGHaI — Miu Miu tapped into the the sky and certain laws of physics are being very world of glitz and kitsch for a cabaret- strongly, not suspended, but we might be able themed fashion event Thursday night, to create the illusion that we’re all floating up taking over five floors of the city’s iconic here on a cloud for at least a few hours.” Park Hyatt hotel. From the dining rooms, with their supper- Models made their way down a reflec- club feel and big band soundtrack, the party tive runway that weaved through three moved upstairs to the top floor of the hotel, floors of dining rooms in the hotel, which which had been transformed into a “Cabaret climbs a staggering 93 stories into the Club” — complete with tobacco-smoke haze. sky. In contrast to the quiet elegance Performances from tap-dancing argentinean and World War II-era palette of the twins, quick-change artists and a whip-cracking Forties-inspired Miu Miu collection, cowboy entertained an enthusiastic audience. Hollywood set designer Carl sprague The 92nd floor bar played host to U.K. sing- transformed the Park Hyatt’s gener- er-songwriter and sometime model, Florrie, innerwear ally austere, Zen-like decor into a who kept the fashion crowd dancing to her infec- neon, plastic, mirrored fantasyland. tious pop beats until midnight, when internation- sprague said he was tapped for al DJs Misty Rabbit and Dan lywood took to the the gig because Miuccia Prada — who stage until the wee hours. Cosabella Expands in NYC sprague describes as a “huge film buff ” This was the second major event the Prada Group has — was looking for an aesthetic reminis- held in mainland China this year — the first, a Beijing- By KaRyN MONGeT cent of his hyper-stylized work as art A model based recap of Prada’s spring collection in January. director on “The Royal Tenenbaums.” in Miu Prada chief operating officer sebastian suhl de- COsaBella WIll OPeN its first store in New york on “This is a maximalist approach, Miu. clined to discuss business matters as the company, aug. 1. which listed on the Hong Kong stock exchange last The 2,000-square-foot boutique will combine both its month, is in a blackout period before releasing its fi- showroom and retail operations into one venue at 220 nancial results. But he did allow that Prada is making lafayette street, between spring street and Broome street. a major push into China. The decor will emulate the lively, bright colors and qual- “shanghai is a massive business, but I think there ity of Cosabella’s products which include lingerie, shape- is a misconception that the China market starts and wear, loungewear and swimwear, said Guido Campello, vice ends with shanghai and Beijing,” suhl said. “We now president of sales, marketing and innovation of the family- have stores in a number of second-tier cities around owned company, which is based in Miami. China and we’ve really only scratched the surface in Designed by Turett Collaborative architects, the lux- terms of growth opportunities here.” urious space will feature the building’s original 19th- according to suhl, events such as the shanghai ex- century red brick walls juxtaposed against natural and travaganza are not just about raising the profile of the industrial materials such as a matte cement floor finish. Prada Group. Merchandise will be displayed and sold to shoppers at the The scene “This event isn’t just about shanghai, or even just front of the store, while a wholesale showroom environ- on the floor. about China, it’s also about asia in general and it’s ment will take up the center, and a private room at the part of our strategy to hold these regular events with back with fitting rooms will be reserved for celebrity cli- key people from business, government, celebrities, ents. leading to the private room will be cascading white socialites and media from all over asia and beyond,” fabric-lined walls and white framed fixtures showcasing suhl said. “Our asian sales, here in asia and from Cosabella’s 2011 ad campaign, World of Colors, as well as asians traveling overseas, accounts for 50 percent of a “Wall of Fame,” which will feature autographed pho- our sales, so it’s a very important market.” tos and favorite underwear items by a host of Cosabella- The crowd certainly reflected a diverse mix of loving celebs, said Campello. Chinese, Hong Kong and overseas guests, with ce- “We expect people to come in just to look at the celeb- lebrities in attendance including Hong Kong actress rity wall or see if they can catch a glimpse of a celebrity Cecilia Cheung and Cantopop diva sammi Cheng. coming in for a fitting,” said Campello. The morning after saw the Miu Miu cavalcade head among the divas who will have their photos and under-

harron LoveLL to los angeles for the premiere of “Muta,” a short film garments signed and framed will be sarah Jessica Parker, s

Florrie By by argentinean director lucrecia Martel. “Muta” is Bobbie Thomas, Cher, Rita Wilson, Victoria Beckham, Paula performs. the second chapter of The Miu Miu Women’s Tales, a abdul, Naomi Campbell, Jessica alba, Gwyneth Paltrow, series of short films by distinctive female filmmakers. Courteney Cox, and scarlett Johansson. Photos Fresh. Luxe. Desire.

NEXT ISSUE AUGUST 2011

ISSUE DATE : AUGUST 15th CLOSING: JULY 28th For more information on advertising in WWD Accessory, contact Jennifer Marder, Sales Development Director, at 212-630-4596. 6 WWD MONDAY, JULY 18, 2011

WCM’s leather belt. Kooba’s linen and leather tote. Stuart Weitzman’s braided calfskin sandal.

Bryna’s cotton, leather and brass handbag. R.J. Graziano’s white metal and gold-plated necklace.

BCBG’s pony hair and wood wedge. Anna Pellissari’s 14-karat gold- Pour plated, magnesite, aventurine, La Victoire’s jasper and goatskin necklace. leather clutch.

BedouinThe windswept dunes of the Arabian Desert have inﬂ uenced some of theChic best accessories for resort with earthy colors, rich embroideries and dramatic shapes. — Roxanne Robinson-Escriout

PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA WWD MONDAY, JULY 18, 2011 7 WWD.COM

Casadei’s studded leather shoe.

Lionette’s gold-plated necklace with Swarovski Elements.

Radley’s leather handbag.

MIA’s polyurethane sandal.

R.J. Graziano’s 14- karat gold-plated cuff.

Anna Beck’s 18- karat gold-plated, sterling silver and chalcedony cuff.

Anuja Tolia’s gold-plated cuff.

Modern Vintage’s leather sandal.

Bedouin Chic Isabella Fiore’s viscose, cotton, chenille and leather handbag. 8 WwD monday, july 18, 2011 WWD.COM Target to Launch Stefani Collection

Stefani is a bona fide style influ- By Sharon Edelson encer. Her upscale L.A.M.B. collection has been successful since its 2004 Target is partnering with Gwen launch, according to retailers. She also Stefani to give babies, children and designs accessories and footwear. The tweens an affordable taste of Stefani’s Harajuku Lovers fragrance quintet Japanese anime-inspired sensibility was considered a blockbuster when it with Harajuku Mini. The brand, which bowed in 2008. And Stefani keeps her will be introduced in Target stores and franchises fresh by developing new art- Material Girl Lineup on target.com in two installments, Nov. work and graphics. Harajuku Lovers 13 and again in January, is a takeoff of has a sense of fun and whimsy with a Stefani’s successful Harajuku Lovers Pop Art aesthetic. young contemporary apparel and acces- “Gwen is a creative force and her Expanding Offerings sories collection and Harajuku Lovers ability to create fun, wearable fashion fragrance. made her an ideal partner for Target,” {Continued from page one} Prices for Harajuku said Trish Adams, senior The Material Girl beauty products Mini for Target, which vice president of apparel will retail from $7 to $12. Body washes, marks Stefani’s first and accessories, Target. body lotions and body mists will come foray into clothing for Calypso St. Barth for in six scents, the nail polish in 10 col- babies and boys, range Target, a limited-time ors, and the lip gloss in 12 variations. from $3.99 to $29.99. collection that launched Eye palettes will come in two varia- “Harajuku Mini is a in May, offered appar- tions, including “Soft & Pretty” and dream come true,” said el for babies and girls. “Smoky and Sexy,” and include four Stefani. “I’ve always Other collaborations for eye shadows, a pencil, a dual-end ap- wanted to do a cool chil- the younger set have in- plicator and mirror. dren’s fashion line in- cluded Petit Tresor for Some beauty items will also be spired by the supercute Target, Appaman for placed near registers to encourage and playful kid’s cloth- Target and Little Seed impulse buys. “We have brand-new ing you find in Japan. for Target. However, most fixtures to highlight the beauty The whole idea is about of Target’s designer part- products, as well as new acces- being creative, expressing your own nerships, including Rodarte, Zac Posen sories, within the Material Girl individuality and having fun getting and Thakoon, have been in the juniors world,” said Reardon. dressed. Target has given me the cre- arena. “Our strategy of differentia- Intimates retail for $5 to $29 ative freedom to design kid’s clothing tion isn’t exclusive to our more mature and include solid and polka that is different than most anything you guests,” said a Target spokesman. “We dot pushup bras, bustiers, boy- usually see out there with great quality, like to put the icing on the cake for all friend briefs, rose-print lace attention to detail and most of all, avail- our guests. That is the fun, the flavoring panties and cupped cami bras. able at amazing prices.” of the assortment.” Sleepwear retails for $14 to $22 and in- The new Material Girl cludes tanks, tunics, sweatshirts, boxers beauty products will retail and lounge pants. for $7 to $12, intimates “The woven waistbands on the un- for $5 to $29 and party Top Marketing Exec Exits Penney’s derwear have the Material Girl logo on dresses for $59 to $79. them, so there’s a status feel to them. June of his intention to retire on July Girls want to wear this brand and show By David Moin 1,” a Penney’s spokeswoman said. It’s it off now,” said Lanie List, chief mer- expected that Penney’s will hold off on chandising officer at Iconix Brand J.C. Penney Co. INC.’s marketing filling the other vacancies until a new Group. Taking a page from Madonna’s team has experienced a string of depar- executive vice president of marketing “Like a Virgin” and “Express Yourself ” tures, among them its top official, Mike is determined. Bill Gentner, Penney’s days, List expects Material Girl custom- Boylson, executive vice president and senior vice president of marketing ers to wear some of the innerwear as chief marketing officer. planning and promotions, is acting as fashion pieces. Boylson’s exit has raised specula- interim chief marketing officer. While the brand sits on the juniors tion that incoming chief executive of- Johnson joins Penney’s board on floor and has a soon-to-be high school ficer Ron Johnson has already begun Aug. 1. and becomes ceo in November sophomore at its creative helm, the core cleaning house at Penney’s. Johnson but has already been getting his feet customer is 18 to 25 years old. is expected to bring a lot of change to wet. He accompanied Penney’s cur- “Lola is 14 but she lives in New York the business, just as he did at Apple, rent ceo and chairman, Myron E. City and has a very famous mom, so she where as senior vice president of retail “Mike” Ullman 3rd, to Hong Kong for has a very sophisticated eye,” explained he orchestrated the brand’s fast-paced, the chain’s annual supplier summit, List. “Lola is here once a month and innovative and highly productive retail where key suppliers learn about the sometimes more. She brings stuff from strategy from its inception in 2001 to state of Penney’s business and long- her own closet for inspiration. For the more than 300 stores currently in the range plans. bath and body products she probably U.S. and abroad. had 100 scents in front of her. She has B o y l s o n l e f t a very mature approach to product de- cape coats and bomber jackets. Penney’s at the begin- J.C. Penney’s velopment.” Party dresses adorned with sequins, ning of July, though incoming ceo, Madonna is a less frequent visitor feathers, lace and beading will retail Penney’s did not an- Ron Johnson. to Iconix headquarters in New York for $59 to $79. Denim, which will encom- nounce his departure than her daughter, but she wields final pass 20 trend-driven styles, including despite his stature say in much of the product, said List. faded flares, studded jeans, overdyed and long history there. “Madonna definitely has creative input styles in vivid colors, acid-wash skinny Boylson joined the also. It’s a collaboration between the jeans and suspender styles, will retail retailer as a manage- two. If Lola goes to a place with an idea from $29.50 to $32.50. ment trainee in 1978, that Madonna doesn’t think is appropri- Macy’s and Iconix are supporting the rose up the ranks to ate for the brand, she’ll veto it. She’s a expansion of Material Girl this fall with store manager, district branding expert,” said List. an advertising campaign that features manager, vice presi- While Material Girl already has some Kelly Osbourne for the second consecu- dent and director of denim, outerwear and party dresses in tive season. The fall media buy includes marketing planning its current merchandise assortments, People StyleWatch, Nylon, Seventeen, and promotions, and for fall the brand will blow out those Teen Vogue and Cosmopolitan, in ad- finally executive vice categories with full product assort- dition to outdoor — including a Times president in April ments, as they have been key sales driv- Square billboard and the Macy’s 2003. He oversaw a ers in the collections. Outerwear will Jumbotron in Herald Square — and on- huge, high-profile marketing program In addition to making organizational retail for $59.50 to $89.50 and includes line celebrity and fashion blogs. with an annual advertising budget esti- changes, Johnson is expected to drive mated at around $1 billion. Penney’s Web presence, introduce new Two other marketing executive products and get the Penney’s team to also recently left Penney’s: Nick think differently. Penney’s close to $18 Bomersbach, vice president of market- billion in sales last year is still under ing for jcpenney.com and a 10-year vet- prerecession volumes, but the company eran of Penney’s, and Christine Laczai, has the potential for growth and for el- director of digital marketing who has evating its image to attract younger cus- been with Penney’s for two years and tomers. Johnson was lured to Penney’s previously worked with VF Corp. by the prospect of reinventing another In confirming Boylson’s departure slice of retail, just as he did with the Friday, Penney’s said it has begun a technology sector, and by the opportu- search for Boylson’s successor. “Mike nity to be the top gun at a multi-billion Boylson informed J.C. Penney in early dollar corporation. FASHION’S WEB: A Dolce & Gabbana- clad crew turned out for a bash to celebrate the brand’s expansion on the ’Net. WWD STYLE PAGE 12 MEMO PAD

ACT OF CONTRITION: The embattled Rupert Murdoch, who saw his protégé and the chief executive offi cer of his media group News International, Rebekah Brooks, arrested over the weekend, attempted to make amends with the British public over the snowballing phone- hacking scandal. On Saturday, the media tycoon took out ads in the major British newspapers with a full-page apology and a headline reading: “We are sorry.” Murdoch expressed regret for the “wrongdoing” and the “hurt suffered” by the individuals whose phones were tapped by his newspapers: “We regret not acting faster to sort things out.…Our business was founded on the idea that a free and open press should be a positive force in society. We need to live up to this.…In the coming days, as we take further concrete steps to resolve these issues and make amends for the damage they have caused, you will hear more from us.” Murdoch, who last week was forced to give up his bid for a controlling stake in the broadcaster BSkyB, is also facing pressures to break up News International, which includes The Sun tabloid and The Times of London. Meanwhile, The Sunday Telegraph reported that David and Victoria Beckham, Sir Paul McCartney and Jude Law also suspect their phones were hacked by a private investigator working for News of the World, the title at the center of the scandal that Murdoch shut down earlier this month. On Friday, Dow Jones ceo and Wall Street Journal publisher Les Hinton tendered his resignation. (Brooks resigned earlier that morning in Britain and, according to The Independent, received a 3.5 million pound, or $5.6 million, severance.) Hinton led the U.K. arm of Murdoch’s empire from 1995 until 2007, when most of the misconduct is believed to have occurred, and was installed by Murdoch as Dow Jones ceo after he took over the company. The Journal, which became more hands- on in covering the scandal as the week wore on, broke the news of Hinton’s resignation. Hinton’s departure “is not surprising,” said one source at the newspaper. “He’s a distant fi gure to people on the editorial side.” Hinton testifi ed before the Culture Media and Sport Select Committee of the U.K. parliament in 2007 and 2009, saying that, as far as he knew, phone hacking was the work of one rogue reporter and that he had no knowledge of the practice at the company’s newspapers. His honesty in those testimonies has been called into question. Tod Larsen, the president of Dow Jones and Long a holdover from before Murdoch purchased the company, will now report to News Corp. chief operating offi cer and deputy chairman Chase Carey. Larsen won’t take the title of ceo. “Nobody has any of Les’ titles at this point,” said a company spokesman. This arrangement will probably be tested before News Corp. hires an executive search fi rm to replace Hinton. Live the A former Journal executive, discussing Hinton’s resignation, raised Journal managing editor Robert Thomson as a possible successor. “On the print side, Rupert has lost today the two closest colleagues he has in the world [Brooks and Hinton] and the only one who remains with anywhere near that amount of trust with Rupert is Robert,” he said. Hinton started at the company at age 15, Queen fetching sandwiches for Murdoch at his fi rst newspaper in Adelaide, Australia. In his One fi lm, seven stage productions and hundreds of headdresses resignation, Hinton said he didn’t have any part later, Oscar and Tony-winning costume designer Lizzy Gardiner in illegal activity at News of the World. “That I was ignorant of what apparently happened is still can’t get enough of “Priscilla Queen of the Desert.” irrelevant and in the circumstances I feel it is Pages 10 and 11. proper for me to resign,” he wrote in a “Dear Rupert” letter to Murdoch on Friday. PHOTO BY LEXIE MORELAND Murdoch and his son James will appear before a House of Commons parliamentary committee on Tuesday. — SAMANTHA CONTI AND ZEKE TURNER 10 WWD MONDAY, JULY 18, 2011

Will Swenson as Mitzi. What a Drag! Costume designer Lizzy Gardiner talks “Priscilla,” pom-poms and lentil bosoms. By Venessa Lau

AMERICA’S GOT TALENT — AND A features dresses with hand puppets tucked few Aussie cupcakes, too. in the folds; a parade of giant tinsel-topped Last Wednesday, amidst the judg- paintbrushes; screwball geisha girls and a ing results for the NBC reality com- Donna Reed fi t-and-fl are frock or two. The petition show, a few cast members costumery is so gaudy it’s good, and that from the Broadway musical “Priscilla fabulous kitsch factor hasn’t gone unnoticed. Queen of the Desert” took to the Gardiner and partner Tim Chappel won the stage for a splashy medley of tunes — Tony last month for Best Costume Design of “Finally,” “Shake Your Groove Thing” a Musical, going up against “Anything Goes,” and “MacArthur Park.” There, “The Book of Mormon” and “How to Succeed camping it up but dressed down in Business Without Really Trying.” Not in stripes and a black blazer, was like there was much competition with, say, lead actor Will Swenson, as well as Marie Antoinette gowns that turn into the a Supremes-like trio with fi ery mile-high iconic Sydney Opera House silhouette. bouffants, eight back-up dancers in slick When WWD recently caught up with raincoats and a quartet of sprinkle cupcakes Gardiner inside the cavernous bowels of twirling about. The latter costumes, it turns the Palace Theatre shortly before yet an- out, were delivered straight from Down other evening performance (the show de- Under in boxes packaged as oversize ovens. buted on Broadway fi ve months ago), the “I think those are the funniest costumes costume designer was still dishing on in the show,” remarks “Priscilla” costume her Tony experience. The fi rst thought designer Lizzy Gardiner, in her cheddar- that came to mind when her name sharp Australian accent. “They completely was called: “I hope I don’t fall freak people out.” fl at on my face. My Chanel When it comes to freak-worthy get- booties are killing my feet.” Scenes from ups, Gardiner has plenty to choose It’s an anecdote that “Priscilla from. The show — which tells the story speaks volumes about the Queen of the of three drag queens on a cross-coun- costumer, who, before this Desert.” try road trip through the Outback — did mostly fi lm work, including the wardrobes for “Mission: Impossible II,” “Bound” and the upcoming “A Few Best Men.” Gardiner is brassy, no-nonsense direct and a serious fashion hound. “That’s so superfi cial, isn’t it? I’m a fashion lover,” she adds, de- liberately drawing out that last word for emphasis. “Absolutely love it.” Gardiner, who’s also a stylist and recently moved to Los Angeles from her native Australia, offers plenty of other sartorial examples. Exhibit A: She’s quick to rattle off her favorite designers — Alexander McQueen (“of course”), Valentino, Lanvin, Balenciaga. “And I know I’m not meant to say his name, but John Galliano has been a great source of inspiration,” Gardiner adds. “For the moment, I love Givenchy, although I have to be careful because sometimes it’s a little too edgy for me.” Right now, she’s wearing a black Carven dress and Paul Smith jacket, her blondish hair tied back in a tight bundle — a stark contrast to the occasional actor passing by in Gardiner’s handiwork, a fl urry of pink plastic and feathers. Exhibit B: It runs in the family. Her

Backstage at the Palace Theatre. WWD MONDAY, JULY 18, 2011 11 WWD.COM Gardiner outside the theater. Below: Nick FASHION SCOOPS Adams as Felicia. KOHL’S PRESSES ON WITH J.LO AND ANTHONY: Theory, where he also heads up Helmut Jennifer Lopez and Marc Anthony might be split- Lang. Rosen has also invested in Alice + ting up, but their forthcoming apparel and Olivia and Rag & Bone. accessories lines at Kohl’s Corp. are still on track — with some slight rhetorical tweak- TRUMP’S BABY PROJECT: A still-pregnant-at- ing. Kohl’s touted the pair as “the fi rst press-time Ivanka Trump has a different kind celebrity couple to simultaneously design of baby in the works — her fi rst apparel collections for one retailer” when plans collection. Trump has been putting the for the lines were unveiled in November. fi nishing touches on a clothing line, which This weekend, a spokeswoman for the re- she is creating in a license with HMX tailer said, “The Jennifer Lopez and Marc Group. The Ivanka Trump line will be Anthony brands have always been posi- positioned in the better market and become tioned as two separate, distinctive collec- an integral element in HMX’s overhaul tions that offer high-quality contemporary of its women’s business. It is expected to style for men and women, and we look for- launch during the September market. ward to a successful September launch.” Rick Darling, president of LF USA, MODEL TWEETS: Could Jessica Stam be in a which is sublicensing the brands to new Cover Girl campaign? On Sunday, the Kohl’s exclusively, said, “We have two model tweeted that she was hard at work separate agreements with Jennifer and on a studio shoot “and it’s barely 6 a.m.” Marc and always intended to have sepa- Those wondering just what Stam was up rate lines. [Their split] doesn’t impact the to had to look no further than makeup mother, who owned a hotel in the inside of a helmet, extremely light- agreements in any way.” artist Pat McGrath, who replied that she was their hometown of Dubbo, was weight and adjustable.” working with the model on a “fabulous new a clotheshorse. “She was ob- Gardiner and Chappel met back in THE FRENCH LEGION: Bernard Arnault, chairman @Cover Girl project!” There was no further sessed,” Gardiner recalls. “She had the Eighties when he worked as her and chief executive offi cer of French information on the nature of the project, a red Valentino smoking suit, to give costume assistant on the Australian luxury group LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis which will surely be announced soon. you an idea. I just remember roll- soap opera, “E Street.” “We were just a Vuitton, was made a Grand Offi cer of the ing around in her closet going, couple of crazy, naughty, naughty kids,” Legion of Honor on July 14, Bastille Day. JUICY JUICE: Actress Elisabeth Röhm may have ‘Oh, my God.’” she recalls, noting they got pink-slipped Lars Olofsson, the Swedish chief executive taken two years off from Hollywood to Exhibit C: Following in when, on the day of a big wedding offi cer of retailer Carrefour SA, was raise her daughter, but she kept her profi le the footsteps of Cher and scene, they left the bridal gown hanging declared an Offi cer of the Legion of Honor, up by hosting an event for the Boys and Celine Dion, Gardiner over a light in the actress’ trailer. The France’s highest civilian decoration, in the Girls Club at Juicy Couture’s Malibu store, had an infamous fash- dress caught fi re and burned the trailer annual list. And Alain Manoukian, founder of and starring in two action fi lms this year, ion moment of her down. “We’re not good in the morning,” the eponymous French retail chain, was “Abduction” with Taylor Lautner and Lily Collins, own, mocked by none Gardiner deadpans of that slip in judg- made a Knight of the Legion of Honor. and “Transit” with Jim Caviezel. Off duty, other than David ment. “But it was perfect timing be- the Venice Beach-based actress loves “the Letterman. In 1995, cause we went to ‘Priscilla.’” PROENZA DEAL: The marriage between California beach life” exemplifi ed by Juicy. when she and Chappel They were actually recruited by the Andrew Rosen and Proenza Schouler could “It’s chic, not trendy. California isn’t about won the Oscar for Best writer and director Stephan Elliott, a be closer to coming to fruition with a just wearing fl ip-fl ops.” Costume Design for the fi lm childhood friend of Gardiner’s. The deal likely to be inked before the end Meanwhile, Juicy’s founders, Pamela “The Adventures of Priscilla, costume budget back then: $15,000 of the month, according to sources. As Skaist-Levy and Gela Nash-Taylor, saw the Queen of the Desert,” Gardiner for the movie versus over $1 million reported in December, sources have been completion their noncompete period with walked to the podium in a spaghet- for the current Broadway produc- speculating Rosen could be heading an Juicy parent Liz Claiborne Inc. on July 1 ti-strap gown made entirely from tion. “We just didn’t have money,” says investment group that would buy Permira’s and are set to unveil their new line soon. American Express Gold cards (254 Gardiner. “Everything was hot-glue 45 percent stake in the hot New York The duo have moved on from the girly of them). Letterman joked that gunned together. And since we were designer fi rm. The deal is expected to tracksuit look they made famous and were it expired during the commer- shooting in the desert, everything fell be separate from Rosen’s other role as recently spotted in the neighboring Ralph cial break. As for her rather de- apart because the glue melted. Some founder and co-chief executive offi cer of Lauren store in the Malibu Country Mart. mure turn at the Tonys this go- mornings we’d walk into the ward- round — she wore a simple robe truck, it’d be well over 100 de- black kimono dress by grees and there would be a puddle on Australian label Bassike the fl oor.” That’s nothing compared to — Gardiner explains, the night their truck drivers got drunk “After you pull a stunt and decided to play cricket with the like that, you never try heads of the emu costumes. Or the and outdo yourself.” comedy of errors involved in creating But that’s precisely what the perfect bust for Terence Stamp’s For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. she and Chappel have done transgender character. “Drag boobs with their current Broadway are hard and fake,” notes Gardiner. iteration. The musical “It’s the transsexual thing that’s hard- premiered in Sydney in er to do. We wanted them to look like 2006 and then played in soft and real boobs, not stuck-on bo- Spaces Melbourne, Toronto, soms.” So they tried bags of lentils again in Sydney, and — too lumpy. Then water balloons, Auckland, New which worked — until the fi lm’s end. COMMERCIAL Zealand. The “When she went to hug her love inter- REAL ESTATE DESIGNER London produc- est,” says Gardiner, who at this point Madison Ave Intimate Apparel Co. seeks Designer. Min 3 yrs exp with bras and tion began in 2009 is laughing so hard she’s on the verge panties. Knowledge of Photoshop, and is still going of tears, “they popped and water was Illustrator, Excel, spec & teck packs. Good benefits & salary. Email resume to: strong, and there are just going everywhere.” [email protected] national tours planned for Italy and Today, much of the musical’s costum- Showrooms & Lofts BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS HANDBAG DESIGNER the U.S. in 2012. The two Aussies have ery is lifted straight from the now-cult Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Design & Develop handbags from con- done, and will do, all the wardrobes. fi lm. The giant lizard costumes, for in- ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 cept to final prod. Must have merch skills & be able to multi-task. Pls The current leg features 500 costumes, stance, and the cheerleading outfi ts, for email resume along w/ salary to 261 costume changes, 150 pairs of which the oversize pigtails turn into pom- [email protected] or fax to 973-481-5375 shoes, 200 hats and headdresses, 72 pons. Or the dress made from orange and wigs (the tallest of which is three feet) pink fl ip-fl ops, an idea that came from and 295 ostrich feathers. “celebrating these hideous things called As for the makeup, about 175 thongs,” notes Gardiner. “At the time, tubes of lipstick, 75 pots of eye shad- you wouldn’t be caught dead in a pair of ow and two pounds of glitter are fl ip-fl ops. We wanted to make a joke out used every month. Perhaps the most of it.” Then there are what she calls the staggering set of fi gures involves the “Gumby costumes” — glitzy disco out- SALES Ladies Leather Accessories Est’d ladies Handbag Co in Newark NJ fake eyelashes: 24 pairs are used for fi ts with fl ared pants inspired by Donna has immed need for a seasoned sales each performance. There are nine Summer, although Gardiner swapped the pro with dept store exp to launch a new brand. Salary + Comm. Pls send resume & different styles and the longest mea- original Seventies Afro for kooky pouf salary req’s to [email protected] sures a sweeping 3.5 inches. toppers made from plastic fl ora, rubber or fax to 212-686-0945 “This Broadway show is just a bet- duckies and other odds and ends “that Sales/Merch Director $300-400K ter show,” says Gardiner. “If you’ve were really cheap and cheerful.” As for 7+ years costume jewelry sales/ merchandising & mass markets exp. made a show three, four times, obvi- those finale Marie Antoinette-meets- Resume to: [email protected] ously, it’s going to become slicker.” Sydney Opera House gowns, if you can’t The original headdresses, for exam- connect the dots, no matter. “It’s just an- ple, were made from heavy chicken other crazy moment,” she remarks. “It’s wire. “Those were agony! I felt so not a game to sit there and try to work (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] bad,” she says. “There were neck in- out what every costume means. It’s just

juries, you know. Now, they’re like meant to be entertainment.” MARCUS JOAN BY SHOW MORELAND; LEXIE BY PHOTOS BACKSTAGE AND PORTRAITS 12 WWD monday, july 18, 2011 WWD.COM Life Lessons From a Sundance Son UNBLINKING AS HE is as a writer, pitching an offbeat po- town that his father essentially built producer and documentary filmmaker, lice procedural set in after buying a mom-and-pop ski resort Jamie Redford can’t seem to get through the Four Corners, di- in 1969. As a Dalton grad who grew up one interview without the questions recting a Yale-backed playing after-school sports on Randall’s turning to his Academy Award- documentary about Island, he sees New York wide and clear. winning father. dyslexic overachiev- “Every time I come across the Triboro, “The one question I am always ers such as Richard or I guess it’s now the RFK, I have this asked is, ‘What’s it like to be Branson and reading sensation that everything else in my life Robert Redford’s son?’ How do eye all of Wallace Stegner’s — my family, my marriage, my work — is I answer that?” he says. “I don’t writings about the some sort of an illusion and I am actually know how to answer that question. American West for a stepping back into my reality,” he says. It’s the only reality I know and it’s a work he chose not to “There is something so strong about hav- good one.” divulge. Having worked ing grown up in New York City that when With his easygoing smile, scruffy cop- on documentaries, writ- you come back it seems as though every- per hair and sun-weathered skin, he is ten movies, directed thing else is just a dream.” unmistakably his father’s son, though and adapted for T V, Dream or not, he also characterizes he’s not in the habit of trading on the Redford, who earned a his childhood as “kind of schizophrenic.” family name. At 49, Jamie Redford is master’s degree in lit- “When I’d get to Utah I’d be so knee-deep with his own projects, such erature at Northwestern freaked out by the dark; and when I’d get as producing “Mann v. Ford,” which will University, said he sees used to that, I’d go back to New York and premiere tonight on HBO. Directed by himself chiefly as a sure enough, then I’d have a fear of the Maro Chermayeff and Micah Fink, the writer, with storytelling heights,” he says with a laugh. tough-to-take documentary details Ford at the core of everything His parents are no longer married, Motor Co.’s dumping of toxic waste and he does. but Redford is constantly in touch with the medical effects the practice has had “The nice thing them, often exchanging ideas. His moth- on the Ramapough Mountain Indian about writing is that it er, Lola Van Wagenen, a lifelong educa- tribe centered about 40 miles from mid- doesn’t matter who you tor, recently launched Cliohistory.org, a town Manhattan. are,” he says. “If it’s site that visualizes history. As for his fa- More often than not during a noon- not good, it’s not good. ther, Redford says most people would be time chat at Bemelmans Bar last week That’s fair with me. I’ve floored that he can put you on the ground Ra over a Diet Coke, Redford considered written many things that with funny stories. “He’s old-school so mit what was asked before providing an un- Rt weren’t good enough, he will just pick up the phone when it rehearsed response. He is blunt about Jamie Redford and I accept that.” rings,” he says. “Sometimes he will im- the film. Robe Having had two liver personate someone else until he realizes “It doesn’t let up, it doesn’t offer any transplants in his 20s who is on the line.”

false promises,” he says. “It’s simply not photo by and 30s, Redford stared When it comes to his own success, a happy ending but it really forces you to down mortality at a Redford finds an obvious joy in his pro- see a serious problem.” because honestly I just do what I do,” he younger age than most. “I’ve had to get cess, another childhood takeaway. One in four Americans, or about 74 says. “I come from a long line of storytell- used to the idea of uncertainty about the “I was just watching a rough cut of my million people, live within a four-mile- ers in my family. The problem has been future but I think everyone comes to that dyslexia film and there is a certain mo- radius of a toxic Superfund site, “And if more trying to deal with the misconcep- sooner or later,” he says. “It’s hard to say ment when you’re working and working, you’re poor, minority, Native American tions and presumptions of others. I think what I would have been like ultimately editing and editing, and you’re not satis- — it’s double that,” he adds plainly. He we have seen this explosion of celebrity prior to all this. I don’t think I waste a lot fied,” he says. “I used to build these tow- notes the Ramapough community that offspring phenomenon — in jail, drugs, of time. In some ways I feel like I’m liv- ers on the beach with sand and I would “Mann v. Ford” spotlights has “an out- causing trouble and I’m as baffled by that ing the life of two people.” put a tennis ball that would roll around rageous amount of cancer, diabetes and and sort of a hater as anybody. I think the He and his wife, a teacher and educa- and around and it would come out and high blood pressure,” and says Ford re- average person thinks things have come tion consultant, have a teenage daughter come down to the ocean. But it took a fused to participate in the film and exec- easier and that I haven’t really paid my Lena and a son Dylan, who has over- lot of time to make that work.…There is utives have yet to issue an official report. dues. There are presumptions about my come dyslexia to make the honor roll a moment in any kind of writing or film When the conversation turns to grow- last name that are very challenging.” at Middlebury College. Redford’s own project where you have that feeling, that ing up under his famous father, Redford While a sequel to the Ford documen- childhood was divided between school it’s finally coming together. I think that’s remains frank. tary is already a possibility, he’s also years in New York City, his hometown, the best feeling.” “The challenge hasn’t been for myself, at work on a litany of projects, such as and summers in Sundance, Utah, the — RosemaRy FeitelbeRg

Peaches Queen Latifah Naomi Geldof in Dolce & Campbell A Little Italy Gabbana. and Domenico Dolce “HEAD TO TOE BABY. Head. To. Toe,” declared Queen Latifah, pointing to her Dolce & Gabbana tuxedo at a party to celebrate the design duo in London. “When I wear Dolce & Gabbana I always tear it up. It makes you feel so confident and sexy, even if you’re wearing a suit.” On Thursday night, Net-a-Porter. com and Mr. Porter threw a bash for Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana at the company’s London headquarters to mark the designers’ debut on both sites. Guests, including David Gandy, Peaches and Pixie Geldof, Jaime Winston, Solange Knowles, Kelly Osbourne and Naomi Campbell, took turns Harold Tillman with posing for photos on twin Vespa scooters Natalie Massenet in set against an Italian backdrop. Dolce & Gabbana. “I feel almost Sicilian when I wear Dolce & Gabbana, like a proper Italian woman,” said Campbell. Knowles, meanwhile, had just returned from a holiday with her son Daniel in Paris. “I’ve been chilling my behind off, hanging out at Place des Vosges, eating, and drinking wine,” said Knowles. “It’s been amazing.” Gabbana’s thoughts were on his upcoming holiday: “We’re spending the summer first in Stromboli in Sicily, then in Ibiza. The first for relaxing, the second for fun.” Meanwhile, Natalie Massenet, Net’s founder who was dressed in a black, strapless dress

bRownfield by the designers, offered up some wardrobe y y

RR tips in anticipation of her upcoming trip to

me Mustique with her two daughters.

by “Pack light,” she said. “It’s a very small plane.”

photos — lucie gReene Musical How to Deal Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Eyewear With Soaring Reverso Watch Licenses Leather Prices Hits the Big 8-0 PAGE 4 PAGE 12 PAGE 2

JULY 2011

WWDAccessories Section II

Clockwise from top: BCBG’s suede and leather sandal, Kate Spade’s patent leather handbag, Meredith Wendell’s cotton and leather belt, Be&D’s canvas handbag, Mykita’s stainless steel sunglasses, Lauren Merkin’s lamb suede handbag and Ivanka Trump’s suede sandal.

For resort, designers have appropriately looked to sunny destinations, giving accessories a cheerful punch with vibrant shades of fuchsia, coral and turquoise. For more, see pages 10 and 11. Tropical Flight

Photo by ROBERT MITRA Styled by ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT 2 WWD MONDAY, JULY 18, 2011

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDACCESSORIES

As a special nod to REVERSO-VERSARY polo’s popularity in PARIS — As Swiss luxu- Argentina, Jaeger- ry watch brand Jaeger- LeCoultre has launched in the mix LeCoultre celebrates the a Grande Reverso 80th anniversary of its clas- Ultra Thin Tribute sic Reverso watch, its chief to 1931 in an exclu- executive officer is eyeing a sive U.S. edition. It key opportunity for growth in features a cordovan the U.S. leather strap made Teatro Antico di Though Jaeger-LeCoultre by the renowned Taormina’s necklace by remains a niche player Argentine polo LedaOtto at Boticca. Stateside, Jérôme Lambert bootmaker Eduardo sees growing demand for Fagliano. Though it Jai Ho bangles. classic timepieces like the is not a limited edi- Reverso, originally developed tion, only 100 of the in 1931 for British army offi- timepieces will be cers playing polo in India. produced this year. He owes this uptick in pop- This is the kind ularity in part to Jon Hamm, of initiative Lambert who wore a Reverso as Don hopes will fire up Draper in the TV series “Mad American watch enthu- Men.” Hamm was introduced siasts, whose increasing to the brand by his uncle, Gary presence on the brand’s Tobey, an avid watch collector. Web site, watch discus- Like Hamm, a growing num- sion forums and social ber of American men are seeking The Reverso. media platforms like an alternative to the chunky, sporty Facebook is key to spreading watches that dominate that market. the word among their peers. “We have always had collectors in “In the technical casual watch sec- the United States, but in the last 15 tor, the word-of-mouth factor is very im- years, we have seen the emergence of portant in the U.S. market,” he noted. a new culture: that of the young watch “These young watch aficionados, col- aficionado,” Lambert said, a day after lectors and watch lovers are the targets hosting a star-studded party in Paris to that are…the most effective promoters BOTICCA’S BAZAAR and whether it can fulfill an order by celebrate the Reverso anniversary. of brands.” LONDON — Boticca.com is a lot like a certain time. “These are clients who came from To further whet their appetites, an online dating site — for accesso- Like PayPal, the site supports the casual watches, looked to vintage and Jaeger-LeCoultre in May launched ries lovers. transactions and ensures they are through vintage are rediscovering the an online feature that allows users Customers can fantasize about, fulfilled before any money changes subtlety of the different aspects of to personalize their Reversos with flirt with — and in some cases com- hands. Customers can make orders in watchmaking,” he added. initials, maps, coats of arms or star mit to — objects of their affection, be euros, dollars or pounds, and shipping As one of the only brands to manu- signs, tapping into a tradition previ- they in metallic pink leather, eel skin takes place within one business day. facture all its movements, Jaeger- ously reserved for elite customers or rose gold. The site is currently skewed to LeCoultre is in the privileged position like King Edward VII of England, The London-based site, founded jewelry, stocking labels including of being able to set its own agenda. who had his family crest etched on by Internet business and marketing Julie Tuton Jewelry in San Francisco; Having previously put the spotlight his Reverso. veterans Kiyan Foroughi and Avid Larissa Landinez in Florence; Toosis on the Reverso’s shock-resistant at- Lambert acknowledged Jaeger- Larizadeh, acts as a marketplace for in Istanbul, and YooLa in Israel. tributes through its square-shaped LeCoultre still has a long way to go in small jewelry and accessories busi- But co-founder Larizadeh, who Squadra models, Lambert is ushering the U.S., largely because of the persis- nesses worldwide, and a platform for has an M.B.A. from Harvard and has in a new five-year cycle in the watch’s tent strength of the Swiss franc, which young or unknown talent in a famous- worked with eBay and Skype, said design history with the release of the has prompted it to raise prices world- ly fragmented industry. the aim is to have a more balanced slimmest-ever Reverso, the Grande wide twice in the last year. “We are trying to build the des- mix of bags, hats, gloves, scarves and Reverso Ultra Thin, with a thickness of “The U.S. market is beyond challeng- tination for fashion accessories on hair accessories. just 2.94 millimeters, or 0.11 inches. ing because it remains very fragmented the Web,” said Foroughi, who is of The site already stocks hats by “With the ultrathin designs, we want due to the diversity of its submarkets,” he French-Iranian origin and whose the Italian label SuperDuper Hats; to explore the aesthetic purity of the said. “It really is a continental market, background is in technology mergers clutches by the Dubai-based Poupee Reverso’s codes,” he explained. “It is a so it requires an approach and a read- and acquisitions and Web-based pri- Couture, and obi belts by the British watch that was worn at the clubhouse, a ing of those markets, and a prioritiza- vate equity investing. company Uroco. symbol of elegance and sophistication, tion of the zones where you are active. The idea for the site dawned on Staffers scour graduate shows, and that is the aspect we are going to be I think there is still a lot to be done on Foroughi when he was in the Medina trade fairs, markets, designers’ own working on for the next five years.” the U.S. market.” — JOELLE DIDERICH in Marrakech. He met a jewelry de- Web sites, and rely on word of mouth, signer who trekked for hours between and even applications from the de- her home in the Atlas Mountains and signers themselves to find new talent the Medina so that she could sell her to showcase. jewelry. “There has to be a destination “We are not looking for hobbyists, WATCH IT that solves these distribution issues but for professionals,” said Larizadeh, LOS ANGELES — A.B.S. is marking time. and allows these designers to reach adding that they are also looking for a The fashion brand is expanding with a line of watches customers globally.” compelling back story from the label; priced from $80 to $300. The site, which launched in an good quality merchandise, and profes- “Our brand stands for affordable luxury and being trend- alpha version in 2009, has since built sional customer service. right,” said chief executive officer Allen B. Schwartz, who up a base of 200 designers in 40 coun- This year, Boticca received $2.5 tapped Genesis Time Group to produce the line under li- tries. Customers are split evenly be- million in funding from retail, luxury cense. “The key is to be able to have a watch like a dress or tween North America, Europe, and and e-commerce investors including a pair of jeans, one that might look like it the Far East, and the average trans- John Ayton and Annoushka Ducas, costs $2,000 or $20,000.” Watches from action is $160. the founders of Links of London and The line ranges from bohemian styles A.B.S.’ new Boticca acts as a link between cli- the Annoushka jewelry brand. to red-carpet bling — some styles feature venture. ents and designers: Customers browse That investment will be used to ac- diamond embellishments. “We can give the site, which has an editorial feel celerate growth by expanding its mar- you a watch that’s great to go to the beach with guest editors and a weekly theme keting efforts and editorial elements, with, and to go out on the town with,” such as Seventies styles or Italy, and bringing new talent on board and he said. The focus is on whimsy and then order directly from the designer. enhancing the customer experience. color, from coral to purple and metallic Boticca takes a 25 percent com- The overheads are inherently small shades, like copper and gunmetal. mission on the retail price set by the at Boticca, which is based in Covent “I think watches and bags and jew- designer — 20 percent if the designer Garden, with money being spent on elry and eyewear and are all part of is exclusive to the site. That is sub- processing fees and administration. that completed look, and every gal stantially less than the 30 to 40 per- “So far, we’ve spent a lot of time try- today wears a watch, not so much to tell the cent markup that a brick-and-mortar ing to make this site a delightful expe- time but to be cool and put together,” added Schwartz, estimat- store would take. rience for customers and to help mar- ing first-year sales at $2 million. Designers are also under no pres- ket the designers,” said Larizadeh. “We “We didn’t do over-the-top styling because we want a con- sure to fulfill deadline-driven orders, think it’s a great category segment to sumer to be able to buy a watch and know they are going to as is often the case with a brick-and- be in, because it’s with accessories — love it as much three years from now as they do today,” said mortar store that has to maintain in- rather than clothes — that you’re able Lenny Rosenbaum, director of Genesis. “By the same token, it’s ventory. On the site, the vendor states to make a unique statement.” A.B.S., so you have to be fashion-forward. You do want to use it how many items are still available, — SAMANTHA CONTI as an accessory.” — MARCY MEDINA LONGCHAMP READY TO WEAR & ACCESSORIES SHOP AT LONGCHAMP.COM TEL: 1866 LONGCHAMP 4 WWD MONDAY, JULY 18, 2011

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WWDACCESSORIES

Tom Ford

As they seek expansion in new markets, designers are shufﬂing Lacoste their eyewear licenses to ﬁnd a The Right Fit strong match. By Luisa Zargani

AS LUXURY brands turn to emerging mar- national markets, thus “attracting designer kets to boost their bottom lines, they see Claudio brands that want to be more international.” eyewear as a viable — and quick — way to Gottardi But, as one license goes, another comes. reach aspirational new customers. Luxottica in October picked up the eyewear “The more the new economies are license for Coach, held by Marchon since growing, the more it becomes a must to 2002. Luxottica’s designs for Coach will offer access to eyewear in China, India, launch in 2012. Luxottica ceo Andrea Guerra Brazil, Mexico, countries where half of said at the time that Coach’s position in the the population had no access to eyewear,” U.S. market was attractive to Luxottica. “The said Claudio Gottardi, president and ceo of U.S. luxury eyewear market is still quite Marchon Eyewear Inc. “They want design- small…[Coach] knows consumers in the U.S. er branded products and in 10 years, there and knows how to be appealing…we think will be up to one billion wearers. The mar- that this market can be much bigger.” ket will explode.” The multiyear deal, which includes To tap into this potential, over the past renewal options, will result in four year or so, there’s been a flurry of new li- annual collections produced under censing agreements between designer hous- the Coach, Coach Poppy and Reed es and top eyewear producers, including Krakoff labels. The frames will retail Carolina Herrera and Lanvin with Italy’s in 3,000 stores in the U.S. and 1,500 Roberto De Rigo Vision SpA. And some brands are additional doors worldwide, includ- Vedovotto severing long-standing ties with their pro- ing Coach boutiques and Luxottica duction partners in favor of new deals. units such as Sunglass Hut, Ilori and Valentino SpA in June signed a licensing LensCrafters. agreement with Marchon for the produc- In July 2010, Diesel announced it was tion and distribution of its eyewear, termi- leaving Safilo after 16 years to partner with nating its 13-year pact with Safilo Group. Marcolin, which, in 2010, also secured the The five-year deal is effective Jan. Swarovski license. 1, with the first collection of sunglasses Safilo’s stable of designer brands includes and prescription frames slated to bow Giorgio Armani, Gucci and Bottega Veneta, that month. and other PPR labels including Balenciaga, Prompting the decision, Stefano Sassi, Yves Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen, chief executive officer of Valentino, said which it renewed last month until 2015, as Marchon “is a relevant and committed re- well as Dior, Max Mara and Tommy Hilfiger. ality in this sector with a strong presence Next month, Safilo and Gucci will intro- in the U.S. and in Europe, which are also duce four eyewear styles made from eco- key markets for Valentino.” sustainable materials. “Our unique brand Also last month, Salvatore Ferragamo Maurizio portfolio, enriched by the new January 2011 signed with Marchon for the production and Marcolin collections, was the engine behind the new global distribution of sunglasses and pre- business opportunities that we tackled to Swarovski scription eyewear. The first collection will continue to stretch our reach and presence be available in Ferragamo boutiques, de- in the marketplace,” said Safilo ceo Roberto partment and specialty stores and select op- Vedovotto, as the first quarter showed a gain tical shops starting in January. Marchon suc- in net profits and sales. ceeds Luxottica Group, whose license with The group underlined the contribu- Ferragamo expires at the end of the year. tion of mounting demand for medium- to The five-year license between high-end sunglasses in areas such as Ferragamo and Marchon, with an option to Asia and the Americas to the group’s renew for five more years, aims to further core business, citing particular growth expand international penetration of the potential in China and Korea. line. New York-based Marchon is one of As the style and licensing direc- the world’s largest eyewear makers, whose tor of his family’s $274 million busi- licensors include Calvin Klein, Diane ness, Maurizio Marcolin has round- von Furstenberg, Emilio Pucci, Fendi, Jil ed up a diverse portfolio of brands Sander, Karl Lagerfeld, Michael Kors and Andrea and drawn five new licenses in less Nike. It operates in more than 100 countries. Guerra than two years. The executive knows In September, Marchon inked a deal with just how important it is to establish a diver- Lacoste, whose eyewear was previously pro- sified portfolio and not rely on one major duced by Charmant, since 2006. brand. In 2004, Marcolin lost the Dolce & These new ventures further Marchon’s Gabbana license to Luxottica, but gradu- commitment to expand its European ally recovered by building a top stable portfolio. of labels that today includes Tom Ford, However, Gottardi said this musical Dsquared2, Roberto Cavalli, Ferrari, Tod’s, chairs of sorts “is all perfectly normal. Hogan, John Galliano and Kenneth Cole. Companies grow, there are different pri- “The goal became to create a diversi- orities. Sometimes, it also depends into fied portfolio because we didn’t want to what market the brand plans to expand.” put all our eggs in one basket anymore,” After securing new investors two-and-a- noted Marcolin. “To keep a balance, today half years ago, the executive said Marchon no brand should surpass a 20 to 30 percent is growing quickly and across most inter- share of sales.” MARCOLIN PHOTO BY DAVIDE MAESTRI; GUERRA BY GIUSEPPE ARESU/BLOOMBERG VIA GETTY IMAGES GIUSEPPE ARESU/BLOOMBERG BY MAESTRI; GUERRA DAVIDE PHOTO BY MARCOLIN Style: Aster/s

WWW.JIMMYCHOO.COM 6 WWD MONDAY, JULY 18, 2011

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WWDACCESSORIES Get It in Print Taking a cue from ready-to-wear’s current prints craze, sunglasses are popping up in polka dots, gingham and other kitschy graphic patterns. — Roxanne Robinson-Escriout D&G

Yves Saint Laurent Emilio Pucci Giorgio Armani

Badgley Mischka

Mosley Tribes

Roberto Cavalli Paul Smith

Marc by Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs

Dolce & Gabbana Gant Handmade

Photo by GEORGE CHINSEE A work of Metal

Rodger Stevens Nyack, USA PO2386S Italian eyewear since 1917 Persol.com 8 WWD MONDAY, JULY 18, 2011

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WWDACCESSORIES See

Calvin Klein Collection

Oliver Peoples

Bottega Veneta

Kate Spade

See Ray-Ban

Clearly Tod’s Whether in bright blues, deep reds or completely translucent, the latest frames are clearly appealing. — Roxanne Robinson-Escriout

Jil Sander

Tru Trussardi

Swarovski

Selima Optique

Prada

Photo by ROBERT MITRA ֦ WRS 2009 MGTO-1 DANICA PATRICK ֢֤֧֦֣֣֤֣֥֪֣֡֠֨֩֩֡֠ 10 WWD MONDAY, JULY 18, 2011 SECTION II

WWDACCESSORIES

Marc by Marc Jacobs’ B. Brian Atwood’s leather leather handbag. and suede sandal.

Nine West’s leather sandal.

Diane von Furstenberg’s embossed leather handbag. Sprout’s cotton, corn resin Vince Camuto’s and mother of pearl watch. suede sandal. WELCOME WWD MONDAY, JULY 18, 2011 11 WWD.COM

Photo by ROBERT MITRA

Kelsi Dagger’s suede and patent leather wedge.

R.J. Graziano’s resin bracelets.

Jamin Puech’s rayon handbag.

Botkier’s lambskin handbag.

Judith Leiber’s Austrian crystal and plated metal minaudière.

Casadei’s laser-cut patent leather pump. to PA RA DISE Resort’s tropical brights make for an accoutrement heaven on earth. — Roxanne Robinson-Escriout 12 WWD MONDAY, JULY 18, 2011

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WWDACCESSORIES Hide and Seek Furla Leather goods makers are looking for ways to deal with the skyrocketing cost of raw materials. By Rachel Strugatz

ESCALATING LEATHER PRICES might not hinder the quality or substituting our product,” he brands and designers from continuing to use the best said. Most of the product is in the $300 to $550 raw materials they can get — but it’s certainly helped range, and he confirmed that the brand will them become more creative in their design processes. continue to use European leather. Brands like Furla and Dooney & Bourke, which Dooney cited the combination of the rising have built entire businesses based on leather hand- raw material prices and the poor exchange bags, and smaller newcomers to the category, like rate of the U.S. dollar for the current state of Rebecca Minkoff, BE&D and Hayden-Harnett, are ex- the leather market, but he said he’s finally see- panding the breadth of their offerings in the category, ing prices level off. He added that he hasn’t despite soaring leather prices. seen a sales decline with the pricier merch, The price of leather continues to rise at a steady and that the new products at higher prices are rate — and according to the Producer Price Index retailing well. from the Labor Department, dollar rates for domes- Giuseppe Volpi, a board member of the tic leather surged 13.9 percent between May 2010 and Genuine Italian Vegetable Tanned Leather May 2011, with Italian tanneries seeing up to 40 per- Consortium and co-owner of Tuscan Tanneries — big clients, like Furla, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, cent increases in raw hide prices. which works with major brands such as Burberry, Gucci DKNY, Cole Haan, Coach, Rag & Bone, Helmut Lang, Despite this, demand remains high. and Trussardi — agrees. Marc Jacobs, Giorgio Armani, Etro, Trussardi and For Rebecca Minkoff ’s chief executive officer, Uri He believes the worst is over and sees a stabiliz- Burberry, aren’t skimping on raw goods. Some might Minkoff — who said the brand uses between 90 and ing market on the horizon, with customers slowly ad- be buying less by volume, but always of better quality. 95 percent Italian leather in its handbags — the com- justing to higher prices. “All of the Italian tanneries And while prices for raw hide have gone up about pany has gotten smarter in terms of design and they are aiming strongly at the luxury brands because we 40 percent since the same time last year — business had to become mindful of how to better construct a can guarantee the quality that they want. They aren’t hasn’t suffered. Votti said the tannery has increased bag when it came to raw materials. happy about the price increase, but they’ve sort of ac- its rates by about only 10 percent since January — “We began to think of little things: should the cepted it. It’s a different story for the low end of the which means leather that might have been 44.50 hangtag be metal or leather, how many studs we need market — we have almost lost it entirely.” euros per square meter ($63) in January now on a bag, and if there are some places where you had Whether this is due to the increased price of costs 49.50 euros ($70). a piece of leather that wasn’t visible, was it possible hides or the weak exchange rate, Volpi admitted Rising leather prices have also impacted to get away with a different material,” Minkoff said, his firm can’t compete with leather production smaller accessories brands that produce adding that when it came down to choosing between in South America. He said he has lost much domestically, such as BE&D and Hayden- margin and revenue because of additional leather business from the Chinese market in par- Harnett, which launched a collection of costs, he chose revenue. ticular — and former clients are now sourc- handbags last month that is all U.S.-made. “It’s not easy, but we asked ourselves, who is the ing raw materials from South America Hayden-Harnett Collection, compris- end consumer? And if you want to have a healthy and India, where the difference in price ing five styles ranging in price from $295 business, where do we have to be? That became our is nearly half that of an Italian tannery. for a waxed canvas tote with leather trim overall theme,” Minkoff said. “We are going to take a Still, he remains optimistic: “[This to $625 for a leather satchel, is the first little bit of the hit, but if the volume grows then we situation] has been going on for over a effort of partners Benjamin Harnett can compensate for that. I’d rather have the sales year, but the hardest was one year ago and Toni Hacker to bring the handbag and the business now and work out the margin later.” when the major increases just start- manufacturing process local, creating The label has become a player in the contemporary ed…Prices are quite high, but if [a jobs for Americans in the process. arena, and Minkoff attributes this to pricing product brand] wants to maintain the qual- Rebecca Minkoff According to designer and cre- at a “sweet spot,” ranging from about $295 to $495. To ity and wants a specific product, ative director Hacker, every com- get there, last fall the brand lowered the price on each they are obligated to pay more,” ponent — from organic cotton of its five best-selling styles between 15 and 18 percent said Volpi. to metallic hardware to leather — a bold move considering the state of raw materials. In pursuit of delivering “af- sourced from tanneries in up- Minkoff maintains that having the “right price” fordable luxury” to its consum- state New York — is American. has led to a better natural performance of the brand. ers, Furla’s ceo, Tommaso Bruso, Asked about the impact of Since last fall’s deliveries, the company has seen and creative director, Fabio skyrocketing leather prices, growth of about 60 to 70 percent. Fusi, said the firm has had to Hacker reasoned, “When you Dooney & Bourke has taken a dif- add value to its product to justify compare working overseas to ferent tack. It raised its pric- increased costs incurred from working here, it balances itself es by about 25 percent in mounting raw material prices. out. Maybe our pricing in the the last 18 months. This Focusing more on details, qual- end is about 10 to 20 percent was the only way for ity of the leather and the stitch- more. I’d rather pay 10 percent the company, which ing, Furla is using less metal extra and know that our money sources 90 percent hardware to cut costs. is going into America and our of its leathers from Furla has held the increase economy and keeping people France and Italy, to in retail prices for its main employed.” preserve its quality, collection to between 5 and 10 Handbag maker BE&D according to presi- percent, said Bruso. The prod- makes all its merchandise in dent Peter Dooney. uct is segmented into three cat- two New York factories, one “We don’t want egories, and only the mid- and in Brooklyn and the other in to diminish qual- higher-end products will see these Manhattan’s Garment District. ity for price. We price hikes. Entry-level hand- However, the brand still sources aren’t altering bag prices will remain the same. leather from a few tanneries in Italy, Dooney & Bourke Additionally, the brand said last month according to founder and creative di- that it will enter the higher-end cat- rector Steve Dumain. egory for the first time via a partnership Like the others, to keep up with climb- with Saks Fifth Avenue. A departure from ing prices (which he said are up 10 to 30 its main line — where most bags retail around percent, depending on the leather), he’s be- $500 — the new offerings are in exotic skins and tex- come smarter about maximizing his leather buy. tured leathers and sell from $1,200 to $1,900. “First, we took a hit on our own margin,” he said. Fusi strongly believes that investing in leather “Now, we’re doing small increases in wholesale. We from tanneries that still use traditional, Italian pro- aren’t changing prices too dramatically.” cesses is paramount to a brand’s DNA. “[We’ve] been BE&D’s bag prices have risen about 7 percent at re- around for 87 years, and you can see it in the prod- tail in the past year. He uses one “superluxe” leather uct. We use one of the oldest Tuscan tanneries, and for most of the body, and a lower-priced one for the they’ve used the same technique since the Fifties.” trim, handle and bottom gusset. He’s especially mind- Mauro Lotti, export manager of I.P. Valdarno ful of this, as he is in launching a men’s collection in International SpA, the midsize Tuscan tannery where January for spring retailing. Furla obtains its leather, concurs. The handbags Dumain said the product must give a visual effect of might cost more, he said, but the quality of leather having a higher value, “even if it’s not a higher-priced is one of the best available — and there are no harm- leather, like a crocodile-stamped leather. The per- ful chemicals used or questionable labor practices, ceived value can absorb the increase. If it looks more as in some other parts of the world. He added his expensive, then it’s OK that it is more expensive.” Naturally Inspired.

10421 SW 187 Terrace, Miami, FL 33157 | 305.233.7566 New York Showroom | 366 Fifth Avenue, Showroom 1110, New York,NY 10001 | 800.619.6588 ERICALYONS.COM 14 WWD MONDAY, JULY 18, 2011

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WWDACCESSORIES A ring in the expanded gold range by David Yurman’s Gold Play Yurman. TALK ABOUT a golden goose. bursts and bows — shapes that connect Yurman was living in company’s biggest change David Yurman is expanding with a to things we know in life. She has this California in the mid-Six- in the past decade lies in significant gold range, creating another love of fireworks,” Yurman said. ties pursuing his passion for the quality of the product. identity beyond the famous gold and Despite the historic prices gold is art. He met Sybil, a fellow sculp- Everything is now vertically qual- sterling silver “cable” chains for the reaching these days, Yurman said it’s tor and painter, in 1969. (They married ity controlled, from the mines to the actual label he founded with his wife, Sybil, not discouraging to him. in 1978.) After apprenticeships under stone cutting, and this has helped them get just over three decades ago. “The increased use of gold in our sculptors including Jacques Lipchitz and more playful and inventive. “The best thing is that this was or- collections reflects my creative inspira- Theodore Roszak and designing sculp- Next up: opening more U.S. stores, ganically grown, it was not by intent. tion,” he noted. “My designs are driven tural and craft jewelry for a decade, the expanding the 60,000-square-foot Basically, this is one big art project that by artistic sensibilities, not by raw ma- couple took their creations mainstream. TriBeCa offices by 30 percent and we’ve been evolving and expanding for terials. Our business continues to thrive In 1982, they introduced the cable that bringing more production to New York. the past 32 years,” Yurman recalled despite rising costs of raw materials, would become a signature. Currently, 78 percent of the brand’s from his headquarters in Manhattan’s because customers value our design “We needed to stand for a look and pieces are made in the U.S. The other TriBeCa neighborhood. and craftsmanship, and the intrinsic we chose an element — this helix mate- 22 percent includes watches made in David, Sybil and their son value of gold.” rial made from twisted wire that we now Switzerland, chain components and Evan, design director for Besides an emphasis on yellow, call cable,” Yurman said. And while it’s hammered metal soldered in Italy and men’s, timepiece, bridal and white and rose gold and spicing up arguably the house’s best-known design pavé work done in China. high jewelry, decided to take their mixed metal combinations, characteristic, less than half of the jew- “The value of gold and silver changes the collection in a new di- there’s a Black and Gold group, elry sold is purely cable. “There’s always the paradigm. Why go overseas to do this rection and launched the and the men’s collections pair a helix design somewhere — but it’s only [manufacturing] when the percentage gold group for fall. titanium and rose gold. Lantana 40 percent of what we sell.” of your value is more metal than labor? Previously, gold com- includes three mini-collections The $500 million company now The only reason to go overseas — why we prised just 20 to 25 percent inspired by a recent trip to boasts 25 freestanding stores (a went overseas in the first place — was of the pieces, but going for- Paris and a fascination with Nashville boutique recently opened and because of capacity,” Yurman said. “We ward, it will make up nearly night skies. Starburst, Starlight Palm Beach Gardens, Fla., is up next in didn’t have enough hands to get our work 70 percent of the brand’s and Midnight Pearl bowed at the fall); employs more than 600 people, done.” He wants, however, to bring anoth- offerings. This was the most Earrings by June’s Couture Show in Las Vegas, and has expanded to include men’s, eye- er 10 percent of this work back Stateside obvious design departure for David Yurman. and each uses elements like oxi- wear, timepieces and fragrances. and develop more local production. the company, and fall’s three dized black rhodium, blackened Yurman faced tough years in 2008 “We had a tremendous financial “serious gold collections” — Starburst, metals and black diamonds offset with and 2009, resulting in a 30 percent de- crunch and a lot of people’s lives were dis- Lantana and Tapestry — include a full bright, translucent semiprecious stones. crease in business and plenty of layoffs turbed. Every luxury business took a big range of earrings, necklaces, bracelets Fans of Yurman’s famous cable — but he said all of those positions have dip. People got rocked and felt insecure and rings in varying shades of the pre- styles needn’t worry, though. The been rehired and then some. and we pulled in for two years,” Yurman cious metal. theme still makes up about 40 percent The designer said he saw the rebound said. “But we’re back to ‘more is more,’ “Sunburst is something that Sybil of overall jewelry sales, and after all, it start in 2010, and he expects to continue the things are not so minimalist anymore. You has wanted to do. It’s about flowers, sun- is the foundation of the company. forward momentum this year. He said the want to break out.” — RACHEL STRUGATZ

Like a diamond in the sky

CZ by

Jardin Jewelry, 53 West 36th Street, Suite 301, New York, NY 10018 • 212 921 0542 Accessorie Circuit, July 31– August 2, Jacob Javits Convention Center, NYC