INSIDE: AWARDS OVERSTUFFED FASHION THE COUNTESS CFDA PREVIEW WANTS TO KNOCK UP THE STUFFING OUT CATCHING OF FASHION. THIS YEAR’S PAGE 9 WITH AND By NOMINEES Louise J. WWDHONOREES. Esterhazy

TUESDAY, MAY 28, 2013 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00

EUROPEAN SPENDING SPREE 2014 M&A Activity Soars RESORT In Jewelry, Fashion COLLECTIONS

ber of transactions in 2013, in- By MILES SOCHA cluding more in jewelry to dove- tail with Kering’s purchase of PARIS — It’s a red-carpet moment Italy’s Pomellato for an estimated for mergers and acquisitions. $360 million last month and its Jewelry and designer ready- takeover of Chinese fine jeweler Pretty as to-wear — product categories Qeelin in December. Others also synonymous with Hollywood ce- have snapped up jewelry brands: lebrities — are entering the spot- In March, Clessidra acquired an light for dealmakers, who expect 80 percent stake in Buccellati for a stronger, more varied flow of about $103 million, while Gemfields A Picture transactions this year as Europe’s bought Fabergé in November. main luxury players hunt for new On the fashion front, Kering growth avenues. acquired a majority of London “Moroccan hats “Leather goods and cosmetics designer Christopher Kane in and Impressionist remain high on the list, but the new January; OTB, formerly Only the hot category is jewelry,” said Ariel Brave, acquired a majority of paintings — Manet Ohana, managing partner at Ohana Marni in December, and the Qatari and Monet but & Co., a boutique investment firm fund Mayhoola for Investments in Paris. “And apparel-couture, bought Valentino Fashion Group mostly landscapes.” which was long deserted by groups for $858 million in December. Such were the in their acquisition hunts, is receiv- Ohana noted he expects most inspirations behind ing more interest recently.” transactions this year to be in the Echoing other observers, $50 million to $300 million range. Tory Burch’s resort Ohana predicted a healthy num- SEE PAGE 7 collection, which, in a different turn for the designer, took on a U.S. Presses Bangladesh classically feminine look. apparel industry workers in the Here, her T-shirt and By MAYU SAINI Rana Plaza building collapse on tiered skirt done in faded April 24, causing a global outcry DHAKA, Bangladesh — The ten- for improved worker safety and in- maxi and mini floral sion was palpable here as U.S. creased pressure on major apparel prints. For more resort, Undersecretary of State for Political brands and retailers to take action. Affairs Wendy R. Sherman led a Sherman spoke at the Ruposhi see pages 4 and 5. delegation for the second U.S.- Bangla Hotel here about the timing Bangladesh dialogue. of her visit, but it was her unequiv- The talks began even as there ocal statement on manufacturing in was a citywide shut down called Bangladesh that cheered the repre- by an 18-party opposition coalition sentatives of the garment industry. on Sunday. These shut downs are “We are encouraging interna- often characterized by not only tional investors not to turn their protests but also the burning of ve- back on Bangladesh, because the hicles and bombings. solution is reform, not withdraw- The talks also took place against al,” she said. “Ultimately, success the backdrop of the deaths of 1,127 SEE PAGE 9

PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO 2 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 28, 2013 WWD.COM

A&F Cuts Forecast as Q1 Sales Fall THE BRIEFING BOX liveries. Also, in hindsight, I be- Sales slid 8.9 percent to $838.8 IN TODAY’S WWD By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD lieve that the first-quarter spring million from $921.2 million a year inventory plan was somewhat low earlier. Analysts expected a 5 cent ABERCROMBIE & FITCH CO. and this resulted in many items loss on sales of $941.7 million. cut its annual earnings forecast which did not have the necessary Impacted by the inventory as it blamed a sharp drop in depth to drive the business.” shortage, overall comparable- Marloes Horst first-quarter sales on a “short- The company is in a better inven- store sales declined 15 percent. is the subject of age” of inventory. tory position in the second quarter By brand, comps at Abercrombie “Model Call” on But Michael Jeffries, the teen with “more depth” in “key items,” & Fitch, abercrombie kids and WWD.com. retailer’s chief executive officer, the ceo said, adding: “I believe that, Hollister Co. fell 13 percent, 5 per- insisted the company is back on cent and 18 percent, respectively. track and improving its speed-to- Higher-priced spring mer- market in order to keep up with chandise and lower product costs fast-fashion rivals. lifted overall gross margin to 65.9 Although losses narrowed $7.2M percent of sales from a year-ago in the quarter, shares of margin of 58.7 percent. Abercrombie tumbled 8 percent A&F’S NET LOSS IN “We are also making good prog- to $50.02 Friday, even though THE FIRST QUARTER. ress on our cross-functional initia- Jeffries vowed to Wall Street ana- tives, which we expect will gener- lysts on a conference call that the ate substantial operating margin retailer’s inventory woes were that’s going to get even better for improvement on a sustainable, “largely” behind it. back-to-school and believe it or not, long-term basis,” said Jeffries. OF NEXT MODEL MANAGEMENT PHOTO COURTESY “We experienced some unan- superb by Christmas.” Still, Abercrombie was bearish ticipated delays in spring due to For the first quarter ended on its full-year financial results, a couple of factors,” said Jeffries. May 4, the New Albany, Ohio- and said it expects annual EPS of Jewelry and designer ready-to-wear are entering the spotlight for “One of which was a function of based retailer registered a $7.2 between $3.15 and $3.25, which is dealmakers, who expect a stronger flow of transactions this year our transitioning to faster reac- million net loss, or 9 cents a di- lower than the $3.49 per share es- as Europe’s main luxury players hunt for growth avenues. PAGE 1 tion times. As a result, it took a luted share, compared with a timate forecasted by analysts and little bit longer than anticipated year-ago loss of $21.3 million, or the $3.35 to $3.45 the company The tension was palpable in Dhaka, Bangladesh, as U.S. to flow in some of our spring de- 25 cents a share. projected in February. Undersecretary of State for Political Affairs Wendy R. Sherman led a delegation for the second U.S.-Bangladesh dialogue. PAGE 1

Abercrombie & Fitch Co. cut its annual earnings forecast as Market Approves of Lafley’s Return it blamed a sharp drop in first-quarter sales on a “shortage” of inventory. PAGE 2

“Lafley is often credited with building out the By EVAN CLARK The names of the presenters at the 2013 CFDA Fashion Awards now-struggling beauty business at P&G and is well PAGE 5 respected internally, even as growth slowed in on June 3 are starting to trickle in. WALL STREET SEEMS HAPPY to have A.G. Lafley the last several quarters of his previous tenure,” back at the helm at consumer stalwart Procter & Schmitz said. “If nothing more, his first task is to Some manufacturers in the “travel goods” category are Gamble Co., but analysts, while bullish, aren’t in- stem share losses and grow P&G at least in line endorsing new legislation that could potentially provide fresh clined to view his first tenure as chief executive of- with global peers, something that hasn’t happened sourcing opportunities. PAGE 6 ficer through rose-colored glasses. in over five years.” “Lafley was terrific....But let’s not be too romantic Jon Moeller, chief financial officer, told analysts Loro Piana has acquired 60 percent of alpaca firm Sanin SA as and rewrite history,” said Citi analyst Wendy Nicholson, on a call Friday that “this change, very simply, re- part of the Italian group’s efforts to invest in the research and who credited the ceo with simplifying the company’s flects Bob McDonald’s decision to retire and the development of the finest yarns and fabrics. PAGE 7 focus on its top 10 brands in its top 10 countries. board’s view that A.G. Lafley was currently the best “However, five years into his post as ceo, [P&G’s] person to replace Bob and build on the momentum E-commerce firms in China are facing major logistics issues momentum slowed, as it seemed that innovation hit that Bob has initiated and led.” with online sales in the Asian country growing so swiftly that a dry patch, the strategy of acquiring big businesses Moeller also said the move wouldn’t lead to “a providers cannot keep up with the demand. PAGE 8 had run its course — post Clairol in 2001, Wella in dramatic change in our strategy or priorities.” 2003 and Gillette in 2005 — and [P&G’s] relative For his efforts, P&G said Lafley would receive Countess Louise J. Esterhazy says that we’re so stuffed with lack of emerging market exposure was beginning to a base salary of $2 million and beginning with the clothes, with food, with technology — with stuff — that we’re like a catch up with the company,” Nicholson said. new fiscal year on July 1 would be eligible for an an- pumped-up helium balloon about to burst. PAGE 9 Investors approved of the ceo switch and drove nual performance bonus of $5 million. He will also

the stock up 4 percent to $81.88 Friday, although it’s receive equity grants. Photographer René Burri discusses his storied career and his not certain how long Lafley’s tenure will be, as part The executive has been consulting for the com- PAGE 10 of his mandate is to “facilitate an ongoing succes- pany in recent years and next month will get a cash new book “Impossible Reminiscences.” sion process.” Lafley took back the role of chair- payment of $1.6 million for his service in the cur- man, president and ceo from his successor, Robert rent fiscal year. The ad-page numbers are in for the first half of the year for the McDonald, who has been criticized by investors for In keeping with the company’s practice, magazine industry, and the figures compute to a 4.8 decrease the company’s relatively slow growth. McDonald will not receive any severance for retir- from last year. PAGE 11 Nicholson said she hopes the ceo “pulls out his ing. Last fiscal year, McDonald logged total com- Rolodex and perhaps brings back some other for- pensation of $15.2 million — although $10.9 mil- Jack Rogers, known for its Navajo-style sandals, is sending mer [P&G] executives who have left the company in lion of that came in the form of stock and option signals that it’s ripe for developing products beyond the recent years.” awards, the value of which might never be realized. established footwear to become a global lifestyle brand. PAGE 11 Deutsche Bank analyst Bill Schmitz Jr. called the McDonald received a salary of $1.6 million and a ceo’s return “a bold move. bonus of $2.4 million. ON WWD.COM

MODEL CALL: With her perfectly tousled hair and slightly flushed complexion, Marloes Horst looks as if she’s just Liberty Fairs to Open Retail Store been lounging on the beach. For more, see WWD.com.

show installed a retail Warby Parker stand at its By DAVID LIPKE New York edition, and in July it will feature a re- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. tail concept with The Tie Bar, Wild Soul and Word WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. IN A TWIST on the traditional trade show, Liberty Stationery, among other brands. The competing COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Fairs is opening a retail store in Los Angeles to Capsule show has for several seasons offered a VOLUME 205, NO. 108. TUESDAY, MAY 28, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two showcase a rotating roster of its brands directly to cash-and-carry vintage fair within its space. At the additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance consumers. Located at 8366 1/2 West 3rd Street in MAGIC umbrella of shows, which includes Project, Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, West Hollywood, the 800-square-foot space will be a digital extension at shopthefloor.com includes ac- Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, available to Liberty Fairs clients as an added value. cess to brands by the general public. and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver The store, dubbed Concept 8366 1/2, officially opens Ben-Avraham declined to detail the business ar- Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North June 1 in a partnership with e-tailer shopwittmore. rangements for his new retail concept but said the Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. com. The trendy site will offer a range of its indie ethos of the space is to support Liberty Fair brands Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or men’s brands in the brick-and-mortar space through with as little overhead as possible. The plan is for 30- inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine June 30, at which point a new partner will move in. day residencies per iteration, with weekend events is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. “The space will change per the partnerships to make plugged in during changeover periods. Nearby shops You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt the experience act as a consumer discovery canvas. We in the neighborhood include Alexis Bittar, Douglas of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request are open to showcasing anyone within our marketplace Fir, Civilianaire and Magnolia Bakery. for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at in any format they choose,” said Sam Ben-Avraham, Among the several dozen brands sold on www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that founder of Liberty Fairs, a new trade show that launch- Wittmore are Ian Velardi, Mark McNairy, Timo we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at es in July in New York and in August in Las Vegas. Weiland, Hook + Albert, Gloverall and Etiquette P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED The initiative comes as trade show operators Clothiers. “The shop will showcase my curated retail ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER increasingly add retail components and consumer- experience, and we’re lining up some killer events UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR facing branding opportunities to their core busi- and in-store promotions that will have us celebrat- DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A ness-to-business model. Last season, the Project ing all month long,” said Wittmore founder Paul Witt. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

4 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 28, 2013

Gucci Fendi Tor y Burch

Fendi: Opposites found balance did a subtle ethnic theme, A more tomboy outfit — floral at Fendi, where Karl Lagerfeld demonstrated via a printed silk cropped top and matching used the Roman fashion house’s tunic and matching pants in oversize vest with baggy craftsmanship to rework iconic silhouettes that paid homage to Bermuda shorts — looked great, Resort 2014 dégradé sportswear and contemporary Tuareg costumes. while a lace knit trench Gucci: Frida Giannini channeled chine maxidress was printed staples. A patchwork leather struck an elegant tone. a youthful, colorful Rio de with hearts, and a polka dot biker jacket topped silk jogging Missoni: Angela Missoni’s resort Janeiro for resort at Gucci, chiffon and Lurex halter pants with snakeskin-and- inspiration? A contemporary Tor y Burch: Tory Burch’s which she described as “a dress was embellished with leather racing stripes down their Brigitte Bardot walking on the signature style has always collection of all my getaway a front knot. Giannini also sides, while a jacquard top with sunny streets of Saint-Tropez. tended toward the tomboy with essentials, designed for an up- experimented with classic beach a foulardlike panel was shown Thus, the mood was chic and a funky flare. For resort, she and-coming Jerry Hall beaming iconography, pepping up a pair with soft denim “sweat pants.” cool, with clothes that included put her boyish leanings aside with breezy style.” of high-waisted silk crepe de A collegiate motif also ran a girly striped cotton-knit for something more classically Glamour met a playful chine pants with a fun parasol through the collection — a minidress with accordion edges feminine. Based in faded floral sensuality in the relaxed print, a motif that also decorated leather intarsia skirt featured and a lace top paired with prints in painterly colors, silhouettes — a silk crepe de a silk twill halter dress. a graphic F logo motif — as printed cotton cigarette pants. the collection came via dual WWD tuesday, may 28, 2013 5 WWD.COM

Missoni includes a pair of boots available for men and women Fashion scoops inspired by the reindeer- leather style worn by Norgay. PRESENTING DUTIES: The names misinformation and illegal The boots, which will be for of the presenters at the 2013 actions from August 2007 to sale exclusively by order at CFDA Fashion Awards on June November 2009. Bally boutiques worldwide 3 are starting to trickle in. Kerry Last February, Walter starting Wednesday, also Washington will be at Alice Tully and Giovanni Burani were feature laces and hooks Hall to present this year’s sentenced to six years in jail manufactured by the same Womenswear Designer of the for fraudulent bankruptcy German factory that made Year award. Ralph Lauren will be of the Mariella Burani them for Norgay’s boots. on hand to give the Geoffrey Fashion Group and its parent Bally on Wednesday will Beene Lifetime Achievement company, Burani Designer celebrate the launch with Award to Vera Wang, who once Holding. — A.T. a charity event in London worked for him, and Jessica organized with the Mount Chastain will do the honors for LIGHT AND MAGIC: A worldwide Everest and Himalayan Trust Riccardo Tisci, who is receiving James Turrell barrage began foundations. Both Hillary’s and the night’s International last week in Los Angeles with Norgay’s children will attend, Award. Linda Evangelista will the opening of the 70-year-old along with Rebecca Stephens, the give the Media Award in Honor artist’s retrospective at the Los first woman to reach the top of of Eugenia Sheppard to Tim Angeles County Museum of Art Mount Everest. Blanks (both hail from Canada). on Wednesday, the first major The remainder of the Andy Cohen will serve as the U.S. survey of his five-decade Everest collection, which evening’s host. The presenter career since 1985. On its includes accessories and of the Founder’s Award in heels are an exhibition at the clothes, will hit Bally stores in Honor of Eleanor Lambert to Museum of Fine Arts, Houston September. — A.T. Oscar de la Renta is still a bit on June 9 and the Solomon R. of a mystery, but none other Guggenheim Museum in New CAMUTO CARRIES ON: “What’s than his friend — and former York on June 21, followed by better than London? It’s the Secretary of State — Hillary the Academy Art Musuem in crossroads of Europe. People Rodham Clinton is said to be on Easton, Md., and Villa Panza in come here from everywhere. the short list of candidates. Varese, Italy. From Asia to the Middle — MARC KARIMZADEH East,” said Vince Camuto at a dinner to mark the launch THE ART OF LUNCH: The cream of his store there last week. of the crop of the art world Camuto and Kurt Geiger, a will gather for a private lunch division of The Jones Group held by Miuccia Prada and her Inc., which holds the license husband, Patrizio Bertelli, on for the brand in the U.K. Wednesday in Venice. The market, opened the store on intimate event will celebrate Kensington High Street. It “When Attitudes Become spans 1,776 square feet, and Form: Bern 1969/Venice stocks shoes and bags. 2013,” an exhibition curated The opening marks by Germano Celant, opening Camuto’s continued Saturday during the Venice global rollout with its Biennale at Fondazione recent openings in Dubai, Prada’s historic Ca’ Corner Germany and Ireland. Della Regina. There are now 60 stores Presidents and directors worldwide, and the label of the world’s most will be expanding into prestigious museums, such Australia later this year. as Venice Biennale president The designer celebrated Massimiliano Gioni, the Tate the launch with a Hamptons- Museums’ Nicholas Serota, the themed party at the Tate Modern’s Chris Dercon, store with rum mojitos, Paris Centre Pompidou’s Alain Champagne, macaroons and James Turrell at the Kayne Griffin Seban and Alfred Pacquement, DJ Bip Ling spinning a set. Corcoran gallery. Amsterdam Stedelijk The party was followed by Museum’s Ann Goldstein, the Turrell has managed to a private dinner at Galvin at Metropolitan Museum of put both private art collectors Windows at the London Hilton Art’s Thomas Campbell, the and the public in that elusive on Park Lane. — LORELEI MARFIL Museum of Modern Art’s Klaus altered state of mind through Biesenbach, the Guggenheim’s his perception-bending light GOING TO TUMBLR: Ahead of Richard Armstrong, the Los and space works. He revealed Stefano Pilati’s debut as creative Angeles County Museum his secret at an unusually director of Agnona and of of Art’s Michael Govan and packed preview on Wednesday Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Hammer Museum’s Ann morning. “I’ve figured out with the latter’s show on Philbin, will be seated next to how to bottle and sell the blue June 22, the first Zegna Group some of the most influential sky,” he quipped of his art, Tumblr bowed Monday. contemporary artists. The list which harnesses the natural In addition to offering a vesi

pA includes Damien Hirst, Cindy light so plentiful and sought glimpse into Pilati’s world

A Sherman, Francesco Vezzoli, Anish after among Los Angeles and way of thinking, the nn A Kapoor, Tacita Dean and Olafur creative types. The next night Tumblr is to be considered

Giov Elíasson, among others. was the long-awaited opening as “a tutorial for the correct D For more n The same night, Fondazione of Kayne Griffin Corcoran pronunciation” of the two A images, see Prada will host a cocktail party gallery, which features brands, which share the at Ca’ Corner Della Regina. many permanent elements gn letters — difficult to WWD.com/ — ALESSANDRA TURRA conceived by Turrell, pronounce by non-Italians.

runway. John Aquino including the skylights in the Pilati collaborated with by BURANI FINE: Italy’s Bourse main galleries, the courtyard Matt Mason, author of “The watchdog Consob has (down to the trellises and Pirate’s Dilemma” on the gn- photos fined the Mariella Burani trees) and a sky space in its project. Slides of words from Fashion Group, its former conference room. Pilati’s vocabulary will be inspiration: “Moroccan hats Finishing the look were a managers and Mariella — MARCY MEDINA projected in an empty room. and Impressionist paintings — plethora of accessories: big Burani’s leather goods “Stefano Pilati’s medium is Manet and Monet but mostly jewelry and new oversize unit Antichi Pellettieri 6.7 THE PEAK OF BALLY: On May fashion. He uses fabrics to landscapes,” said Burch. The handbags that were either million euros, or $8.7 million 29, 1953, when Sir Edmund create his point of view and is former was quite literal in actual bedecked with embroideries at current exchange. The Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing a master in the use of means hats — straw Panama styles with or done in a combination of two companies, along with Norgay conquered Mount of communications,” said colorful trims — and hat motifs raffia and printed snake. Burch Walter and Giovanni Burani, Everest, the latter was Mason. “Pilati is something of on intarsia T-shirts and a printed used the latter treatments respectively president and wearing a yellow pair of Bally a pirate, a pirate in fashion. sundress. Those styles played to on a highly decorative shoe chief executive officer of the boots, a gift from the Swiss He rebelled against the the bold palette Burch is known collection of sandals and group, and Burani’s chief alpine team. system when it didn’t follow for, while a range of pale blues charming espadrilles. financial officer Giuseppe Gullo To celebrate the 60th him and with his ‘manifests’ and neutrals worked nicely on If resort was an example of and Giacinto Giuliani — who anniversary of the climb, [while at Yves Saint Laurent] printed georgette maxiskirts, Burch’s romantic side, she is still acquired shares in Mariella Bally creative directors brought his image on the a great blanket tweed jacket sporty by nature, so much so that Burani UK in 2004 — are Michael Herz and Graeme Fidler streets, letting his mind do and structured tunics trimmed she revealed that a new athletic accused of manipulating have designed an outdoorsy the talking.” with embroidery. collection is in the pipeline. the stock market through capsule collection that — LUISA ZARGANI

w28a004(5).indd 5 5/27/13 3:04 PM 05272013150728 6 WWD Tuesday, may 28, 2013

textiles Seeking Duty-Free Status for Travel Goods U.S. Generalized System of Preferences Coach travel totes. By KRISTI ELLIS program to include most travel goods products that were exempted when the WASHINGTON — Coach Inc., Luen Thai program was established in 1974. USA and other manufacturers of a broad “Upon passage, travel goods, such array of briefcases, purses and backpacks as the purses, briefcases and back- in the travel goods category are endorsing packs, could be considered for ap- new legislation that could potentially pro- proval as duty-free products by the U.S. vide fresh sourcing opportunities. Trade Representative under the [GSP] Many companies in the U.S. travel program,” said Crenshaw. “That’s a goods industry are facing rising costs in win-win for companies like Coach, in China, which is the number-one supplier Jacksonville, Fla. [where the company of travel goods to the U.S. market. But has a distribution and customer service companies are somewhat hampered in center], as well as our national security where they can move production because strategy in countries around the globe. China is such a dominant player and du- The bill would give the travel goods in- ties on travel goods imports to the U.S. dustry viable market alternatives to can be as high as 17.5 percent. China, which is not a GSP country.” In an effort to find more cost-competi- If the bill is enacted, companies tive alternatives to China, the industry is and countries would still have to peti- 22 categories, or 80 percent, of travel gram, according to the USTR. hoping to advance legislation that would tion the USTR office to request spe- goods products under the GSP program Imports of travel goods to the U.S. expand a U.S. trade preference program cific eligible items to be added to GSP. for the first time. reached $9.8 billion in 2012, according and allow developing countries to qualify If a product is approved after a U.S. “Why does that make a difference?” to the AAFA. China was the number-one for duty-free benefits on exports of travel International Trade Commission re- he asked rhetorically. “The bulk of this supplier in volume, with imports of 2.2 goods products. Reps. Ander Crenshaw view, the duty-free benefits would apply type of products [in volume] comes from billion units and a value of $7.1 billion. (R., Fla.) and Adrian Smith (R., Neb.) intro- to all GSP-eligible countries. two countries — China and Vietnam con- Vietnam was second, with imports of 50.3 duced the GSP Update Act in the House on Rick Helfenbein, president of Luen trol over 90 percent of the [U.S. import] million units valued at $464.3 million. Wednesday. The bill seeks to expand the Thai USA, said the bill seeks to include market. The reason the bill is so signifi- “It gives us the opportunity to go cant is it would level the playing field into other markets and try to develop and allow countries like the Philippines, the industry,” said Angus McRae, ex- Cambodia, Indonesia and Thailand — all ecutive vice president of operations at The Fiber Price SheeT GSP-eligible countries — to participate.” Coach. “It has been very centralized in In 2012, the Philippines was the sev- the Chinese marketplace. What we are The last Tuesday of every month, WWD publishes the current, month-ago and enth-largest supplier to the U.S. mar- looking to do is diversify out of China…a year-ago fiber prices. Prices listed reflect the cost of one pound of fiber ket with 9.7 million units in imports, market where prices are increasing or, in the case of crude oil, one barrel. followed by Indonesia, the ninth-larg- quite rapidly at the moment.” est with imports of 7.7 million units. McRae said labor costs have Price on Price on Price on Thailand was 10th with imports of 6 mil- increased 20 percent in China Fiber 5/27/13 4/29/13 5/28/12 lion units, and Cambodia was 17th with year-over-year. imports of 1.5 million units, according to “This would give us all a competitive Cotton 82.18 cents 81.15 cents 75.6 cents data provided by the American Apparel edge if we moved out to other markets,” Wool $4.54 $4.62 $5.13 & Footwear Association. he said. “The duty break would give us China and Vietnam are not eligible to some encouragement from our supply Polyester staPle $1.12 $1.12 83.5 cents participate in the GSP program, which base to invest in new markets.” Polyester filament $1.01 $1.01 72.5 cents was designed to promote economic McRae said while travel goods is growth in the developing world by provid- about 10 percent of Coach’s business, the aPril synthetiC PPi 124.9 122.9 124.8 ing preferential, duty-free trade benefits addition of handbags under GSP as part Crude oil $94.25 $93 $90.66 to designated countries that meet certain of travel goods would represent 50 per- criteria, such as labor rights and intellec- cent of Coach’s business. *The Wool Price is baseD on The average Price for The Week enDeD MaY 24 of 11 DifferenT Thicknesses of fiber, ranging tual property rights protection. The pro- “I think it would affect every major froM 18 Microns To 30 Microns, accorDing To The WoolMark co. inforMaTion on coTTon anD PolYesTer Pricing is ProviDeD gram currently provides benefits for up to American retailer,” he said. bY The consulTing firM DeWiTT & co. The sYnTheTic-fiber ProDucer inDex, or PPi, is coMPileD bY The bureau of labor Helfenbein said, “China has had such sTaTisTics anD reflecTs The overall change in all sYnTheTic-fiber Prices. iT is noT a Price in Dollars buT a MeasureMenT of 5,000 imported products to 127 designated hoW Prices have changeD since 1982, Which haD a PPi of 100. oil Prices reflecT lasT Week’s closing Price on The neW York beneficiary countries and territories. In a large share of the market for so long. MercanTile exchange of fuTure conTracTs for lighT, sWeeT cruDe oil To be DelivereD nexT MonTh. 2012, U.S. businesses imported $19.9 bil- It is really no secret that many people lion worth of products under the GSP pro- making handbags, in particular, and suit- cases have been looking for an alternative to China. One of the logical alternatives is the Philippines, where a few facto- ries are up and running there. It also seems the next logical country would be Cambodia for a whole host of reasons.” He said the high productiv- ity in China makes it difficult to shift production to a develop- ing country where the produc- tivity rate is lower. However, a duty-savings benefit could be an equalizing factor for develop- ing countries and give them a chance to compete with China. The AAFA estimates that 99 percent of all travel goods sold in the U.S. are imported. AAFA has said the legislation will also protect remaining U.S. manufacturers by ex- cluding from GSP eligibility specific products that are still made in the U.S. and requir- ing the government to conduct a review before implementing ANNIVERSARY duty-free benefits for travel goods under GSP. “The industry is looking for new sources for travel goods,” said Nate Herman, vice presi- dent of international trade at the AAFA. “It will open the door to new opportunities, not only for U.S. travel goods companies but also for devel- oping countries and, in the end, U.S. consumers.”

w28a006b;7.indd 6 5/27/13 12:35 PM 05272013123630 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 28, 2013 7 WWD.COM M&A Activity Expected to Heighten This Year {Continued from page one} “There is a definite pickup in M&A TowerBrook Capital took a majority stake activity versus last year,” agreed Pierre in denim and lifestyle brand Kaporal. Mallevays, managing partner of Savigny Partners, a London-based boutique in- vestment bank specializing in luxury goods. “There hasn’t been so much fluid- ity and open-mindedness in a long time. We will see a lot of variety in investment types and sizes.” Last week alone saw two more deals in Europe. TowerBrook Capital Partners acquired a majority stake in the French lifestyle brand Kaporal, while in the men’s arena, French digital group MenInvest said it has acquired edgy London-based men’s online retailer Oki-ni. Mallevays pointed out that “everyone seems fascinated by the development success of the contemporary category,” alluding to such fast-growing brands as Acne, Rag & Bone and Isabel Marant, along with chains such as Sandro and Maje, which last month, along with Claudie Pierlot, was sold to American are groups that have accumulated bulg- turns in the last decade,” he said, refer- vesting in its own properties. private equity giant Kohlberg Kravis ing cash piles in recent years. LVMH Moët ring to the 2008-09 financial crisis and “A year or two ago we had to make a Roberts & Co. in a deal estimated to be Hennessy Louis Vuitton had cash and cash the sharp downturn in the wake of the decision — do we invest more in Cartier, worth about 650 million euros, or $859 equivalents of 2.19 billion euros, or $2.82 2001 terrorist attacks in New York, which Van Cleef, Piaget — in terms of jewelry million at current exchange. billion, as of Dec. 31, while Richemont had was exacerbated by a SARS outbreak. — or do we go and buy something?” he According to market sources, Kering a net cash position of 3.21 billion euros, or Investment experts agreed that said. “We think there is a lot, lot more has looked at a number of contemporary $4.13 billion, as of March 31. Europe’s big conglomerates are likely scope in Piaget. It’s done brilliantly in players to learn more about the segment, According to Thomas Chauvet, luxury to be the major actors on the buy side. watches, but I’d rather have Piaget ex- including Maiyet, an upstart luxury label analyst at Citi, returning capital to share- Besides acquiring brands, they are panding in jewelry than buy another jew- that promotes craftsmanship in areas holders seems an unlikely path. likely to continue quietly snapping elry company.” of economic and political conflict, like “Increasing the payout ratio or dis- up suppliers, and make select invest- Observers agreed that positive near- Colombia or India. tributing special dividends might not ments in real estate as rental prices in term prospects for luxury, while dimmer Mallevays cautioned that the number be the most tax-effective way for private top locations soar. than the boom years of 2011 and 2012, un- of targets in the contemporary segment is European family owners to pay them- Chauvet said “tactical acquisitions” of derscore a lively M&A scene. “very shallow as few of these brands are selves,” he explained. “Similarly, some suppliers of watch components and tan- “The key driver to M&A in any sector open to do a transaction.” luxury executives do not believe in the neries specializing in precious leather are is confidence,” said Ohana. “Long term, Not so for many independent, midsize benefit of share buybacks.” part of a broader industry trend toward we have confidence in the luxury space players in jewelry, fashion and a host of That’s why luxury players are likely more vertical integration. “It is key for because of the consumer’s quest for qual- other categories. to pursue what he called selective and many groups to secure long-term visibil- ity and the quest for status….I don’t see These companies face stagnant complementary acquisitions. ity over sourcing, enhance product quality anything that will stop that.” growth in historical luxury markets and “They will look for categories where and preserve jobs at home,” he said. Valuations in luxury remain high be- increasingly daunting entry barriers in they are underpenetrated to acquire According to one Paris-based analyst, cause of consistent growth and strong fast-growing emerging ones, according scale and to rebalance their portfolios. who requested anonymity, “Kering is margins that are resilient to erosion, to Ohana. This is particularly the case This is the way we understand the recent more likely to keep adding smaller brands Ohana noted. regarding China, where real estate is be- moves into jewelry by soft luxury con- and know-how; LVMH is more likely to Mallevays agreed endemic players are coming expensive, with big groups cor- glomerates: LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis keep integrating upstream with raw mate- likely to drive a lively M&A scene. nering all the best deals and spaces. Vuitton with Bulgari and PPR, or Kering, rials and sourcing, and downstream with “Groups will continue to be the most “So it is a typical opportunity-threat with Pomellato. Or similarly, the move new retail concepts such as Samaritaine, able to execute and deliver a business situation,” he explained. “It’s a good time into high-end jewelry by Swatch Group, while Richemont is more likely to keep plan after an acquisition; they will drive to sell, but if you don’t sell you will need whose core business is watches, with investing on production and to remain activity and pricing,” he said. to invest much more cash and are at risk.” the acquisition of Harry Winston earlier cautious on external growth.” Not that he expects other potential Mallevays agreed that “owners of this year,” Chauvet said, referring to the Indeed, while discussing Richemont’s buyers to sit on the sidelines. smaller firms realize that on their own, January megadeal with an enterprise full-year results last week, Johann Mallevays predicted private equity it is very difficult to capture opportuni- value of up to $1 billion. Rupert, the company’s chairman and firms will look at large targets in the ties in emerging markets, where all the The analyst also predicted luxury controlling shareholder, downplayed the lower end of the luxury spectrum, and action is likely to be in the foreseeable groups would continue to hoard cash for likelihood of acquisitions, citing a dearth independent investors will get involved future. So there is renewed interest for rainier days. of sizable targets “that are either afford- in revivals and early stage deals. the two sides to talk.” “Let’s not forget that the luxury indus- able — or for sale,” and a conviction that — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM On the other side of the negotiating table try has gone through two major down- the group can yield higher returns by in- SAMANTHA CONTI, LONDON

counted for 22 percent of sales, and the Loro Piana Buys 60% of Alpaca Firm Sanin SA latter posted a 24 percent increase. “The U.S. market is very positive for us. In terms of the number of custom- long term. This also has a social rele- demand. The total raw fiber obtained an- ers, Americans top the list, followed by By LUISA ZARGANI vance, as we create employment.” nually reaches 13,200 to 17,600 pounds the Chinese,” said Loro Piana, touting The company has actively invested compared with the 22 million pounds of a balanced distribution of sales around ROME — Loro Piana has acquired 60 in safeguarding the vicuna, a member cashmere and the 1.1 billion pounds of the world and avoiding a single focus percent of alpaca firm Sanin SA as part of the camel family that lives wild in the wool. Loro Piana produces 220 pounds of on Asia. There are 18 stores in the U.S., of the Italian group’s efforts to invest in Andes, a breed once sacred to the Incas vicuna, which are entirely absorbed by its where the company plans to open a the research and development of the fin- and that was on its way to extinction own verticalized manufacture. “The main third unit in Las Vegas this year, in ad- est yarns and fabrics. between the late 16th century and the market for vicuna is the U.S., Russians dition to expanding the New York bou- Sanin is an Argentinean company Seventies, almost wiped out by poach- have fallen in love with it, and Asians see tique and renovating its Bal Harbor, Fla., that owns the right to shear wild vicunas ers. The company established the Franco it as exotic, as they are so used to cash- venue. The group’s retail channel, which living on a territory of 210,000 acres in Loro Piana Reserve in honor of their mere,” said Loro Piana. comprises 140 directly operated stores, the province of Catamarca, Argentina. father and his brother, chairman Sergio Products made with vicuna account showed a 20 percent increase in 2012. During a press conference held Friday Loro Piana, in the Lucana area in Peru for between 1 and 1.5 percent of Loro In 2013, the group plans to open a at the stunning Villa Medici here, which in 2008. Through controlled shearing, in Piana sales. The Italian luxury group total of 12 new or refurbished stores. houses the Academy of France and four years the number of animals in the closed 2012 with sales of 630 million “It’s difficult to provide forecasts, but stands on the Pincian hill overlooking Peruvian reserve has doubled to 2,000. euros, or $806.4 million at average ex- expectations for the year are quite posi- the Spanish Steps, chief executive officer The Argentinean breed is bigger and change, up 13.1 percent compared with tive; perhaps we won’t see a jump, but Pier Luigi Loro Piana said the company has finer, lighter hair compared with the the previous year. “The year 2012 was we hope to once again post a double-digit had invested $1.6 million in the project, Peruvian vicuna, and for this reason Loro very good, even better than 2011. We gain, despite the challenges. The second but underscored that it should not be Piana characterized the new develop- have reaped the rewards of steps taken part of 2013 is the most important for us seen as a financial investment. ment as a breakthrough, as it will allow in the past, and we feel we are going in in terms of seasonality,” said Loro Piana. “This is not about profit but about the production of fabrics in a “honey, al- the right direction,” said Loro Piana, The executive reiterated that the fam- being able to produce the best fabric in most white” color. The first white vicuna conceding that exports, which accounted ily-owned company is not looking at a the world, also in memory of our father products will be in stores in 2014. He said for 85 percent of sales, helped deliver the listing. “We have the means to grow inde- [Franco], who did it back in the 1960s,” the company has 99 product categories strong performance. Europe accounted pendently and carry out our next three- said the executive, donning a blue vicuna made with vicuna, which costs five to six for 48 percent of total revenues and Asia year plans. Never say never, but we see jacket. “We took a majority stake, which times more than cashmere. Despite this, for 31 percent of sales. China showed a no need to go public,” said Loro Piana, guarantees continuity and buying in the Loro Piana struggles to meet consumer 34 percent gain. Canada and the U.S. ac- who was in Rome also to sponsor with his 3x7 (left)

8 WWD tuesday, may 28, 2013

China E-tail Growth Exposes Distribution Issues that e-tailing may be growing experience to be on par with an “In China, we say there are a consumers online. Neiman’s and By LARA FARRAR so fast that third-party logistics experience they would have in million logistics providers,” said Net-a-porter declined requests to providers and delivery services bricks-and-mortar retail. Suguiura. “Even’’ if a guy has a discuss logistics, but the U.S. re- SHANGHAI — Several in China are struggling to keep Concerns surround the quality small truck, he calls himself a tailer last week tweaked its online months ago, the manager of an up with demand, which is re- of third-party logistics providers, logistics company.” strategy in China and how it deliv- American women’s wear brand sulting in substandard service which sometimes manage every- Stephen Sher, cofounder and ers products. Rather than holding launching e-commerce in China that may ultimately damage thing from a brand’s online oper- executive vice president for mar- inventory in China, Neiman’s now decided to visit the distribution consumers’ perceptions of the ations to distribution of products, keting and strategy at Moonbasa, will ship from its U.S.-based in- center of a local third-party ser- brands they have bought online. as well as delivery companies an e-commerce fashion apparel ventories, cutting its staff in China vice logistics provider his com- By and large, Chinese logis- that transport orders to the end company, voiced a similar view. by about half. It will maintain its pany had hired. tics providers are considered ef- consumer. According to observ- “The price wars in the logis- Mandarin-language site, however. What this manager discovered ficient, particularly in big cities, ers, certain turnkey solution pro- tics industry are very fierce. This Yo o x Group chief operating when he arrived was, he said, and also incredibly cheap (send- viders in China are taking on too is a poorly regulated area with officer Giuseppe Guillot said that appalling. A video that he took ing packages across the country many clients, experience high too many suppliers and too little China “has been one of the big- of the warehouse shows piles of costs only a few dollars at most). employee turnover and take little investment. There is no single gest challenges” for the company. boxes strewn about on the floor That infrastructure works well time to understand the products player that can provide quality It has responded by setting up its with workers flinging orders that for the mass-market world, where they are helping to sell. service across China,” Sher said. own logistics center and office had been returned or were to be shoppers may not expect stellar “I think what happens in China shipped out to customers onto the service. But that could change is that logistics companies that back of a truck. It was dirty. There as shoppers buy full-price luxury maybe once worked only with toys was no security. Packages were items on the Internet. will start working with garments, In China, we say there are a million bent, if not almost ripped open. A lot of Chinese consumers and they do not know how to han- “I was completely disgusted,” “are starting to buy more pre- dle them,” said Andre Suguiura, logistics providers. Even if a guy has a said the manager, who requested mium and luxury brands online,” general manager of LifeStyle anonymity out of concern speak- Lac Tran, head of marketing Logistics, which specializes in small truck, he calls himself ing publicly about the experience and advertising for Web2Asia, a providing services specifically for might jeopardize business rela- Shanghai-based digital market- fashion retailers, including the a logistics company. tionships in China. “They didn’t ing company, said, adding that China operations of Yo o x Group. give a damn. They just tossed new markets are opening up in “When you buy something from all of the boxes on the back of a third- and fourth-tier cities for a high-fashion brand, you want to — Andre SuguiurA, LifeStyLe LogiSticS truck. We have adjusted our pack- premium e-tailing. In fourth-tier have the same experience as when aging to suit the situation. That is cities, the online shoppers spend you are buying in the store, but a According to research from in Shanghai. Yo o x works with the only thing we can do.” 27 percent of their disposable in- lot of times it is not like that.” the Shanghai-based consultancy Federal Express and its local E-commerce is exploding in come online on average, accord- Part of the problem might be Smith Street Solutions, shoppers partners, including LifeStyle China. With $190 billion in on- ing to a March McKinsey study on the fact that there are so many lo- on Tmall.com “generally rec- Logistics, to deliver products to line sales last year and a com- China’s e-commerce landscape. gistics providers in China. When ognize that a logistics company more than 400 Chinese cities. pound annual growth rate of 120 Online retailers offering full- helping fashion brands set up shop is a third party working with The e-commerce player has percent since 2003, the country price luxury items will need to on its Tmall e-commerce platform, the brand” and do not associate put a special emphasis on service. has become the world’s second- make sure their items are deliv- Alibaba provides its clients with problems directly with the brand. Couriers will wait while custom- largest e-tailing market, accord- ered with more care to meet the a list of at least 3,000 third-party Still, common complaints include ers try on products to see if they ing to McKinsey. But there are changing demands of customers solutions providers. In 2011, there slow delivery, bad service, bro- fit. The e-tailer also has created concerns within the industry who will expect their e-tailing were 600 companies on the list. ken packages and lost goods. an antifraud microchip seal to en- Problems seem to be most se- sure the authenticity’’ of products. vere during promotional events of- More third-party logistics pro- fered by e-commerce companies. viders are beginning to offer ser- In November, on Single’s Day, for vices aimed at the fashion indus- example, many e-tailing sites offer tr y, Suguiura of LifeStyle Logistics deep discounts. In 2012, Single’s said. For example, DHL Global Day generated $4 billion in on- Forwarding recently revealed line sales, according to McKinsey. plans to build a tailor-made fash- “That can stress systems and make ion center of excellence outside things challenging to manage,” of Shanghai. But still it is hard said Frank Lavin, chairman and to ultimately control quality for chief executive officer of Export delivery in third- and fourth-tier Now, which offers e-commerce so- cities where larger delivery com- lutions to brands in China. panies often hand off packages to The market is also flooded small local partners. “First- and with companies in the delivery second-tier cities are pretty stable, sector. Competition is fierce as but in third- and fourth-tier cities, rivals continually try to beat each things are getting a bit more com- Candice Crawford other on volume and low price. plicated. It is not the same service Image Consulting, Continuing Education “The express delivery market in level,” Suguiura said. “Sometimes China is not as old or well-estab- they don’t wait [for customers to lished as in the United States, so try on goods]. They don’t care. But #33 you certainly will be more likely where business is starting to in- to find areas where there might crease is in these types of cities.” be a performance gap or quality McKinsey noted in its March Learn to improve my gap,” Lavin said. study on e-tailing in China that Return rates are currently low next-day delivery is not available in China as customers are still in many third-tier cities where company’s bottom line, relatively new to online shop- e-commerce is unlocking pent- ping, analysts said. Customers up demand for merchandise not might not be able to navigate re- yet available in physical retail not just hang out online. turn processes. But returns are stores. “Warehouse space, truck- likely to increase as consumers ing routes and other logistics become more adept at ordering infrastructure would have to be THOUSANDS OF COURSES. from the Internet, which could priorities for smaller cities to cause further logistical problems. fully participate in the Internet A MILLION REASONS. Lai Jianchang, the director economy,” McKinsey said. of international business for de- The sheer size of China is just Earn up to 12 credits this summer livery company ZTO Express, one of the factors differentiating said his company would rather it from other markets. Lavin of Study evenings, weekends, and online not work with high-end fashion Export Now warned that many Take affordable credit and noncredit courses brands because the volume is brands make the mistake of ap- simply not worth it and also the proaching China the same way company does not want to have they would their home countries. REGISTER NOW to pay sometimes steep deposits “It is frustrating for them be- fi tnyc.edu/wwd as a guarantee in case products cause they are doing what they are damaged when they are de- did in their home market,” he livered. “If a product gets lost, we said. “But they are not getting have to pay too much,” he said. the same results. The more so- State University of New York In the past few years, a num- phisticated companies adopt a ber of foreign e-commerce com- very different approach. I see Fashion Institute of Technology panies, including Yoox, Neiman brands that have jumped in very Where creativity gets down to business. Marcus and Net-a-porter have quickly and said, ‘Let’s get every- entered the market in a bid to thing going next month,’ and they sell luxury products to Chinese end up cutting corners.”

w28a008b.indd 8 5/27/13 4:13 PM 05272013161504 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 28, 2013 9 WWD.COM Overstuffed?THE COUNTESS SAYS We Are!

PARIS IS A CITY WHERE ONE GETS The park is an understuffed paradise playing on the ideas — and not just about fashion. in a world that is overstuffed. We can’t By TV near him. In a small park close to the Hotel even leave nature alone — a recent He was totally Bristol, one can sit for hours and story in The New York Times said understuffed. He watch all of life go by. Everything is biotechnologists are trying to manipulate Louise kept looking over immaculate. The chestnut trees are trees so they glow at night. Why? J. at me until he and in full bloom, the smell of wildflowers It’s the perfect example of overstuffed. his daughter rose and permeates the air and the fountain sings We’re so stuffed with clothes, with food, Esterhazy began walking toward its song surrounded by an audience of with technology, with stuff that we’re me. I felt my heart go pitter- multicolored tulips. like a pumped-up helium balloon about patter and my face flush. (I’m People sit in the grass eating their to burst (of course, some have said I’ve of a certain age, but I’m not that lunch, reading books or engaging in always looked like that). We’re missing old.) He said hello in an East End the amour that the City of Light stirs the simple joys of life. accent and then leaned over closer in everyone, while the sky, when the Our closets are packed, like those of to me — to pet my dear friend weather is good, is a beautiful Parisian a famous French lady who has so many Tulip, my shih tzu. His four-year-old blue. The only things one hears are the clothes that she’s turned all the guest daughter did the same. Punch & Judy show, the birds tweeting rooms in her hotel particulier into closets. Thank goodness for Tulip. I have and the slight drone of traffic on the Guests must sleep in her husband’s bed my share of overstuffdom, but she Champs-Elysées, where the huge French when he isn’t there. So obviously she keeps me grounded. And I’m not the tricolor hanging in the middle of the Arc doesn’t have that many guests. only one. Even world leaders admire de Triomphe waves chicly in the breeze. The fashion world is overstuffed with her: French President François egos, public relations people, big shows have their photographs taken by Hollande must take walks to relax in and lavish spending. Everybody’s hyped giving to charity to boost their egos the little park, with no security, near up to the hilt to get publicity. It’s as (and maybe ease their consciences). the Elysées Palace because one day though designers are trying to cloak the Not a day goes by that Warren Buffett Tulip was there and he stopped to reality that they’re really only making doesn’t have his name in the paper pat her and spoke with her in French. body coverings. — and now he’s even tweeting, which Overnight she became a star at the But if you’re a big overstuffed teddy means he’ll be everywhere. hotel because the President of the bear these days, you always want more. There are those who do good French Republic took time to pet her. And it starts early. American parents without seeking publicity, like Bill It hasn’t gone to her head one bit. They overstuff their children with gifts, mainly and Melinda Gates, who are quietly and obviously weren’t frightened of Tulip. made of plastic, like the electric cars effectively seeking to eradicate malaria I’m striving to follow her example, boys get and then leave out in the rain to and polio — and convincing fellow even down to my diet. Ever since I was rust, or the smartphones, tablets and all billionaires like Buffett to leave all their growing up at the family schloss high in the other electronic stuff they get so they money to charity when they die. The the Austrian Alps, I’ve loved my share can sit and text their friends rather than Gateses, even worth more than $60 billion, of Sacher torte, Wiener schnitzel and engage in actual conversation. are understuffed in this overstuffed world. bramborak. But in my strive to be less And nobody seems to ever get enough There are others, like David Beckham. stuffed in all things I’ve gone vegetarian money. Hedge funders and bankers like Yes, he of “Bend It Like Beckham.” On (well, sort of). As David Beckham walked Steve Cohen, Ray Dalio, Lloyd Blankfein, the eve of announcing his retirement, he over to me, I was indulging in the most Eddie Lampert, Stephen Schwarzman was sitting in the restaurant of the Bristol delicious lunch of sweet carrot juice and and David Tepper are stuffed with one afternoon. I noticed a handsome man a vegetarian club sandwich with tomato, millions and billions year after year after sitting at another table with a little girl. avocado and eggplant with special year, as are ceo’s of major corporations, He was dressed all in gray, with a gray homemade mayonnaise, spiced with from Les Moonves at CBS and Robert stocking cap and what looked like a gray herbs and parsley. It’s delicious — and I Iger at Walt Disney to HCA’s Richard sweater with patterns on the sleeves. might even lose weight. No wonder the Bracken and Oracle’s Larry Ellison. Then I realized those weren’t sleeves — great chef Joël Robuchon is planning to Seriously, what do they do with it all? they were his arms, which were covered open a chain of vegetarian restaurants How many houses, boats, planes, cars in gray tattoos. in India. David Beckham and his daughter and other stuff do they need? Hardly anyone acknowledged him as So that’s my diet du jour in trying to Harper seen in Paris on May 3. Even the money isn’t enough — they he ate spaghetti with a glass of Coke, and be less overstuffed. Now I’m off back to

PHOTO BY KCS PRESSE/SPLASH KCS PHOTO BY NEWS/CORBIS want to get their names in the papers or he didn’t even glance at the soccer game the park to smell the wildflowers.

with a U.S. business delegation Bangladesh, as in any democ- U.S. Puts Pressure on Bangladesh that attended seminars, met offi- racy, this is for the people alone cials and leaders of the industry to decide,” she said. {Continued from page one} civil society groups, our part- and debris of Rana Plaza, out of and got a sense of the business While U.S. Ambassador Dan will depend on the will and ners in the international com- the ashes and pain of the Tazreen environment in the country. Mozena introduced Sherman commitment of industry, govern- munity, and members of the Fashions and Smart factory fires Sherman spoke about “ro- at the speech organized by ment, civil society and everyday Bangladeshi diaspora.” before it, you can chart a new bust and growing bilateral ties the Bangladesh Institute of Bangladeshis to come together She was categorical in as- way forward; that you can build a between the United States and International and Strategic to change the culture of work- signing responsibility as well as national consensus on how to im- Bangladesh”; the two countries Studies, the delegation also in- place safety and worker rights in her offer of friendship. “The prove the lives of workers — in- do more than $6 billion in trade cluded Assistant Secretary of State in Bangladesh.” responsibility for enforcing ro- deed the lives of all citizens — in every year. She unveiled sev- for Economic and Business Affairs Global brands pulling out bust labor standards is the re- Bangladesh,” she observed. eral new programs, including Jose Fernandez, Deputy Assistant from garment manufacturing in sponsibility of the government of The first U.S.-Bangladesh a $2 million initiative as part Secretary of State for Democracy, Bangladesh and a consequent loss Bangladesh. But as your country dialogue was held in September of President Obama’s Global Human Rights and Labor Karen of business have been of grave faces these challenges, its friends in Washington, D.C. The ses- Health Initiative, and anoth- Hanrahan, Deputy Assistant concern after the incident at stand ready to help,” she added. sion in Dhaka was cochaired by er $8 million for the Global Secretary of State for Population, Savar. But the pressure on brands Sherman said support for en- Bangladesh foreign secretary Climate Change Initiative. Refugees and Migration Kelly has only intensified since the hanced safety inspections could Md. Shahidul Haque, who led Discussions during the two-day Clements and Deputy Assistant building collapse which followed be secured from American com- the local delegation. dialogue were about trade and Secretary of State for Energy a fire at Tazreen Fashions that panies that source garments Over the last few weeks, some investment, governance and de- Resources Robert Ichord. killed 111 workers in November from factories in Bangladesh. dramatic changes have been ob- velopment, security cooperation Sherman spoke about a and another at Smart Fashions in “Engineers and architects from vious in Dhaka. Following a del- and regional integration. growing relationship with January that took seven lives. the Bangladeshi diaspora in the egation from the International “But as a steadfast friend of Bangladesh, especially while Sherman’s roundtable discus- United States have stepped up to Labor Organization after the in- your country, I must be frank and ramping up American engage- sion with government, labor, fac- help recruit a corps of indepen- cident at Savar, the government say that the ultimate success of ment in the Asia-Pacific region. tory owners and buyers on labor dent safety inspectors. The United formed a wage board to look at the Bangladesh story is not guar- “To borrow a phrase from issues in the apparel sector were States is also funding local labor the issue of higher wages in the anteed,” Sherman warned. Indian Prime Minister Singh, all the more crucial as leaders of and civil society organizations to sector. The freedom of associa- “My colleagues and I, along we dream of a world where one the industry have been scram- promote respect for fundamental tion for labor and the need for with a great many Bangladeshis, can have breakfast in Kolkata, bling for ways to restore some of rights at work, including freedom trade unions was also discussed have watched with dismay as lunch in Dhaka, and dinner in the lost credibility for a crucial to join a labor union.” by the cabinet and is expected to the streets of Dhaka have been Rangoon,” she said. segment of the economy, which Talking about worker safe- come up for approval before the shut down by hartal after hartal, In a joint statement, released provides jobs for more than 3.8 ty, Sherman spoke about the Parliament session in June. by angry demonstration after by the U.S. State Department million workers. Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire Sherman reiterated the im- angry demonstration. I can- in Washington on Monday, U.S. “We need to do all that we in New York City, which “shook portance of reforms for workers not presume to tell the people and Bangladesh government can to make sure this doesn’t the conscience of the American and the industry. “They are also of Bangladesh or your leaders officials said they discussed happen again,” Sherman said. public and spurred government critical to restoring Bangladesh’s what issues demand attention, Bangladesh’s request for duty- “We are working together with and industry to implement cru- image in the eyes of the interna- what wrongs must be righted, free access on the country’s gar- the government of Bangladesh, cial reforms” and helped find a tional community,” she said. or what approach your country ment exports to the U.S. the Bangladeshi and American way forward. Parallel to the meetings with must take as it faces the grave — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM private sectors, labor and “We hope that, out of the grief Sherman was another set of talks challenges of the future. In KRISTI ELLIS, WASHINGTON 10 WWD TUESDAY, MAY 28, 2013

René Burri’s Color Sense Tijuana, Mexico, 1967

RENE BURRI admits that he’s world powers with the lonely first went to Argentina to shoot, led a double life. But not in the Cuban cowboy in between an he intended to stay for three usual way. “One in black and American vintage car and a weeks and ended up spending white and one in color,” the Russian rundown Lada. I also six months in South America. noted photographer says. made this picture because it When he got back, Magnum told Burri, who is 80, was born reminded me of the period him that it had made contact in Zurich, where he studied at when Greek-style pillars could with the Cuban guerrillas in the the School of Arts and Crafts. be found in all the backwaters.” Sierra Maestra and wanted him He first became a documentary Then there is a curious- to go to the island immediately. filmmaker, then went on to looking picture of men He said no, because he didn’t join Magnum Photos in 1959. dressed in impeccable sports think that he would really be He began by shooting for Life clothes standing on packed allowed in. “South America is magazine, then Look, Paris earth against a background still the continent of mañana,” Match, Bunte, Stern, Geo and of chimneys billowing smoke, he said, and went off to go Schweizer Illustrierte. Burri taken on Das Island, United skiing with his family. But the was on assignment in the Arab Emirates, in 1976. “Das assignment did take place, and Middle East during the Suez Island is an island in the he then thought that he had crisis and China under Mao Persian Gulf that produces missed the Cuban boat. Two Zedong, and has done a years later, however, his variety of photo essays agency told him, “You’re eye and notable portraits of René off to Havana.” luminaries, including Burri He went to shoot Che Guevara (his single Guevara in Cuba with most famous image shows Laura Bergquist, who at the guerrilla leader the time was what he calls with a big black cigar); “a grand reporter” for Pablo Picasso; Alberto Look. She had approached Giacometti; Le Corbusier, Guevara when he was and Yves Klein. appearing at the U.N. “I always say that just after the Cuban photographers are Missile Crisis. Burri says, known to the greater “Guevara told her, ‘Listen, Mexico City, 1976 public for two or three Miss Bergquist, if you can pictures,” he says of get permission from the his image of Guevara, CIA or the Pentagon, you which appears in a are invited to Cuba.’” She poster on a Swiss wall did, and before long, Burri

in a 1993 shot from his found himself in a taxi new book, “Impossible headed to Havana. Reminiscences” “Not that he was the (Phaidon). way we perceive him now,” The book FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE the photographer says of features the Guevara. “The blinds were color photos WWD.com/eye. drawn, and I asked, ‘Can Burri has been I open them?’ and he said taking, usually “No.” I thought, ‘Well, it’s on the side, for much of your face, not mine.’ I had his career. Throughout PRESS PHAIDON OF COURTESY PHOTO to adjust the technical many of those years, things on the ASA. It was color was considered absolutely over two hours the wrong choice for of a cat-and-mouse thing photojournalism, but between him and Laura Zurich, nevertheless, from the Bergquist.” 1993 Sixties on, he developed Putting together the the habit of working with new book was like “my own at least two cameras, one little long march,” Burri for black and white and says. He worked on it for one for color, and often seven years. Since most with as many as four of his color pictures were slung around his neck. He produced in the form of began to shoot color on an slides, he had to have the early assignment for the ones he was interested in Swiss cultural magazine developed into small color Du. He had gone to pictures so that they could Argentina to photograph be shuffled and reshuffled what he calls “the original to create a dummy for the Marlboro man,” the book. In the end, he used gaucho, on horseback. He color as a way to tie things was asked to shoot some together, and the shades of color as a calling card for the photos subtly progress the printer, so he brought The cover of René Burri’s new book, with a in groups, from green back color shots, he says, shot of Seoul in 1987. to blue and other tones, showing “green pampas, ending with red, to draw and blue sky, and I included oil and gas,” Burri writes. the reader in. some color pictures from this “There were around 3,000 Burri claims that his next Santiago de Cuba, Cuba, 1984 moment on.” male workers (and not a single book will be about shots he “Journalism was practically woman) on the island, from all missed. There was the time in all in black and white,” he over the world. This picture is New York City in the Sixties recalls. “In 1964, I was living of a Japanese team that worked when he recognized Greta Garbo a bit in this way, I would say, for a gas company. Their living on the street and let her walk by three or four lives. I did films conditions were quite spartan, without taking a shot; she gave for Xerox around the world — but here they were taking time him a gesture of approbation. industrial films, that was the out by playing golf.” And then there was the moment way I started in the mid-Sixties Burri says of the celebrated during a visit to China in the to feed my family.” artists he has shot, “I was very Sixties, when Chinese officials Among the best features of much interested in them; I told him that they wanted “Impossible Reminiscences” wanted to meet them.” He spent him to meet a very important are the stories in the back of six months wooing Picasso orchid grower. They were quite the book by Burri about the before the painter finally mysterious but insistent, and photos he chose. For example, agreed to pose for him. The finally let him know that it was he writes about a shot he took photographer adds, “I also the last emperor of China, Puyi, in Santiago de Cuba, Cuba, in learned from [celebrities] how who was then working part 1984, “What struck me about you have to approach people.” time at the Imperial Botanical this scene was that it was a Burri likes to tell stories on Gardens. Burri passed, saying, collision of three cultures; himself about photographs and “ Yo u should keep this gardener Das Island, United Arab an incarnation of the Cuban assignments he has missed. for yourself.” Emirates, 1976 situation caught between two As a young man, when he — LORNA KOSKI WWD TUESDAY, MAY 28, 2013 11 WWD.COM

and dealing is standard operating than 2 percent at the same time last practice, no matter what they say. year, but only Cosmo has recovered Allure, Marie Claire and W were way for the first half — at 696 pages, it’s ahead of the pack through last June, up 6 percent. Glamour, down nearly MeMo pad each with percentage jumps in the 4 percent, boasts 671 total ad pages. double digits. Against those records, Vanity Fair has 647 pages, down almost their 2013 first half can only pale in 6 percent to what is roughly the same NUMBERS GAME: Memorial Day weekend Thanks to former publisher Connie Anne comparison — Allure has nearly 690 amount of ad pages the title had in could not have come soon enough for the Phillips, who resigned from Time Inc. in pages for the period, or less than 1 2011 (it had 685 pages at the first-half magazine industry. early May, InStyle, coming off a decent first percent above last year, while Marie mark in 2012). Lucky’s new publisher, With less than two months to go half in 2012, is again off to a solid start in Claire, at 756, is up nearly 3 percent. Gill Gorman Round, brought the magazine before the make-or-break September 2013, with a total of 1,261 pages, the most W, now under new publisher Lucy out from a 17 percent drop in ad pages issues close, the pressure is on to enter out of any of the fashion magazines, and a Kriz, has 549 pages, up 9 percent. Elle through last summer. Now it is down the last stretch of the year on a strong haul that is up nearly 4 percent. But can has the third-highest number of ad only 6 percent at 382 pages. O, The note with advertisers. the magazine keep up the pace now that pages, behind Vogue and InStyle, with Oprah Magazine was down 16 percent This year, there’s added pressure on Phillips is out of the picture? 1,157, up 5 percent. Cosmopolitan and to 479 pages, the second year in a row September, since the first half, from January At Susan Plagemann’s Vogue, which Glamour both were down a little more it’s posted double-digit declines in to June, had the misfortune of competing claims nearly 1,181 pages through June, the first half. The magazine against what was a robust 2012 first half paging is also up a little more than 4 was shaken in April with the and so looked softer by comparison, though percent for the period. departure of editor in chief several of the major fashion magazines The competition between the glossy Susan Casey. are up slightly for the period. supplements from The New York Times Two categories in particular From January to March, magazines and The Wall Street Journal is still that were slightly weak through had a total of 31,137 pages, down 4.8 healthy, with both titles posting double- last summer are thriving so far: percent, according to the Association digit jumps — WSJ., run by publisher food and men’s. Bon Appétit and of Magazine Media. Media Industry Anthony Cenname, posted 252 pages through Food Network, from Condé Nast Newsletter reported the declines to be its June 13 issue, or nearly 30 percent and Hearst Corp., respectively, smaller, 0.12 percent in the first quarter above the previous year, while T: The posted double-digit jumps in and 0.86 percent in the second quarter. New York Times Style Magazine, under advertising. BA had 347 pages, Let’s start with the magazines that group vice president, advertising Todd up 25 percent, while Food maintained their momentum. In the first Haskell, has 13 percent more pages, at 486. Network had 472 pages, up 16 half of last year, Harper’s Bazaar, which (Without the May design issue, which percent. Details, at 350 pages, is reduced frequency to 10 times a year in was discontinued, the magazine is up 26 up 19 percent; GQ, at 531, is up 2012, had 13 percent more pages than the percent in total ad pages). nearly 11 percent, and Esquire year before. This year, publisher Carol The caveat in all the increases — has 439 pages, up 6 percent. Smith pushed ad pages to a little more and declines — is the rates publishers Rivals Men’s Fitness and Men’s than 900, a 19 percent surge over the charged per page. Only they and their Health are running neck and same period in 2012, according to MIN. clients know the truth, since wheeling neck, and both are up double digits, 36 percent and 25 percent, respectively, following redesigns and new editorial management. That was enough for Men’s Jack Rogers’ Lifestyle Approach Fitness publisher Patrick Connors. Fla.; Nantucket, Mass.; Bal Harbour, Fla., “Let the holiday weekend By DAVID MOIN and Charlotte, N.C., with California and begin!” he said Thursday in a Florida being the brand’s best markets. Harper’s Bazaar recorded a 19 percent increase in first- tweet from LaGuardia Airport on THOSE CHIC, Navajo-style sandals have “At the moment it’s opportunistic, but we half ad pages over last year. his way to Miami. — ERiK MAzA a look that can go a long way. are readying ourselves to be more aggres- That’s the view at Jack Rogers, which sive. East Hampton is a perfect fit, given was founded in Palm Beach, Fla., in 1961 the resort, casual lifestyle aspect of our and is now sending signals that it’s ripe brand.” The cozy 300-square-foot shop is for developing products beyond the es- “super-curated and designed with a gal- tablished footwear. “The mission is to lery feel,” Schultheis said. “It has the turn Jack Rogers into a global lifestyle best of our best, the iconic sandals, as brand. We can triple the business in the well as fashion footwear, some apparel, near term,” said Clare Schultheis, the handbags and scarves.” chief executive officer. On the product side, “We are expand- According to William M. Smith, ing beyond the sandal category to have managing partner of Global Reach a stronger assortment of ballerina flats, Capital, which owns the brand along mocs and drivers, the collection will be small space with Richard Mishaan and Northwood in stores on Oct. 1,” she added. Products Ventures, “What we bought three years range from jellies to wedges and boots. ago was the most popular selling sandal With handbags, Jack Rogers is ex- panding to cross bodies, and wristlets, as well as small leather goods. There’s also been some development of sportswear where the company appears to be test- ing the waters. The company is investing in e-commerce, seeking to make the Web site more user-friendly and intuitive. It recently relaunched and has a feature to see how a bag or a sandal would look monogrammed, and another feature to customize the color of stitching and the base of sandals. There have been some fits and starts developing apparel, which Smith ac- knowledged. “I don’t think we nailed Big the product outside of shoes. We were doing too much.” Now there is a clearer vision for apparel, currently seen just The new Jack Rogers shop in East Hampton. for retailing as a complement to the foot- wear, which is wholesaled and retailed. style for the last 50 years, but that’s all “We are not reinventing the wonderful Business we bought — one sku [stockkeeping unit] heritage and equity,” said Schultheis. in many, many colors. Since then, we’ve “We are very much focusing on the Jack turned it into a nice shoe company, and Rogers aesthetic and staying true to the we are building it into a multiproduct classic, upscale, polished, casual chic WWD Marketplace is the premier destination lifestyle brand before we sell it. We have lifestyle. The brand appeals to both a longer-term perspective than some pri- mothers and daughters.” vate equity guys.” About two months ago, Schultheis for the industry’s classified and career listings. Jack Rogers, said to be approaching joined Jack Rogers, which for several $20 million in volume, opened its first quarters operated without a ceo, waiting store, on Madison Avenue between 87th for a suitable candidate. “Clare’s back- and 88th Streets, in 2011. In the past ground is so deep in footwear, having two months, the second and third stores worked at Joan & David, Cole Haan and 800.423.3314 opened, in Phipps Plaza in Atlanta and in Stuart Weitzman,” said Kristin Dennehy, East Hampton, N.Y. Though not exactly managing director of Herbert Mines racing to add more stores, Schultheis Associates, which recruited Schultheis wwd.com/marketplace said retailing is “a strategic initiative” to Jack Rogers. “She is a product-fo- and there’s “a hit list of areas and loca- cused leader and can build Jack Rogers tions” of interest, including Palm Beach, in a full lifestyle brand.”

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Published by Fairchild Fashion Media, a divisionW of Advancew Magazine PublishersD Inc., 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017

Editor In Chief Edward Nardoza Advertising vice president, Group Publisher Paul Jowdy Executive Editor, Beauty Pete Born associate publisher Pamela Firestone Executive Editor Bridget Foley ADVERTISING Director Jennifer Marder Editor James Fallon executive director, Innerwear/Legwear/Textile, Joel Fertel Managing Editor Peter Sadera INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, RMM MEDIA Renee Moskowitz Managing Editor, Fashion/Special Reports Dianne M. Pogoda ADVERTISING MANAGER, M MAGAZINE, Brett Mitchell European Editor Miles Socha ADVERTISING DIRECTOR, BEAUTY Ellie Ghadimi News Director Lisa Lockwood account manager Holland Casey Deputy Fashion Editor Sarah Taylor account manager Cassie Willard SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia account manager Ariel Tensen Senior Editor, Retail David Moin

senior Editor, Special Projects, Textiles & Trade Arthur Friedman Assistant to the Chief Revenue Office Dana Cirincione Senior Editor Arnold J. Karr Advertising coordinator Stephanie Fell Associate Editor Lorna Koski Bureau Chief, London Samantha Conti Regional/INTERNATIONAL Offices Bureau Chief, Milan Luisa Zargani West Coast Director, 323-965-7283 Jill Biren Bureau Chief, Los Angeles Marcy Medina West Coast ACCOUNT Manager, 323-965-7285 Courtney Hazirjian Asian Editor Amanda Kaiser International Director, 011-331-4451-0761 Guglielmo Bava BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis Account Manager, Italy, 011-3902-6558-4224 Olga Kouznetsova Senior Fashion Editor Bobbi Queen Account Manager, ITALY, 011-3902-6558-4236 Giulia Squeri Associate Editor Jenny B. Fine Eye Editor Matthew Lynch Advertising Assistants Senior Editor, Specialty Retail Sharon Edelson Kelly Dumser, Christopher Santorella, Tina Schlissel, Joyce Graham, Pascale Rajac, Emanuela Altimani Senior Prestige Market Beauty Editor Julie Naughton FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Marc Karimzadeh WWD.COM Fashion features editor Jessica Iredale Digital sales planners Kevin Mullahy, Jason Schneider Senior Accessories Editor Roxanne Robinson Senior Fashion Editor, Sportswear Kim Friday Marketing/CREATIVE SERVICES Senior Market Editor Antonia Sardone EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, Marketing, Janet Menaker EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, creative services, Emily Cortez Contributing Editor At Large John B. Fairchild Executive Director, Event Marketing Kristen M. Wildman Director, Integrated Marketing Jennifer Pincus wwd.com creative Director Fabio Salles copy Director Julia Donahue web Editor Krystina Gustafson DIGITAL DEVELOPMENT DIreCTOR Alexis Warchalowski Assistant Online Editors Roberta Correia; Kristi Garced ASSOCIATe marketing DIReCTOr Brianna Lipovsky senior integrated marketing manager Jennifer Borck men’s Manager, Event Marketing Michael Fountas Senior Editors Jean E. Palmieri, David Lipke manager, event marketing Julie Jacoby Fashion director Alex Badia Manager, Integrated Marketing Alissa Gross AssOCIATE Fashion Editor Luis Campuzano ASSOCIATE Manager, Integrated Marketing Amanda Mullahey ASSOCIATE MANAGER OF DIGITAL DEVELOPMENT Ellyn Puleio market editors Marketing Coordinator Danielle K. Stewart ACCESSORIES Rachel Strugatz, Alexandra Steigrad PUBLIC RELATIONS ASSISTANT Christina Mastroianni Beauty Molly Prior, Belisa Silva READY-TO-WEAR, Furs and innerwear FASHION Bobbi Queen PRODUCTION Innerwear/Bodywear Karyn Monget vice president, Manufacturing Gena Kelly Ready-to-Wear and Sportswear News Rosemary Feitelberg Group Production Director Chris Wengiel Media Erik Maza Production Director Kevin Hurley Associate Production Manager Jill Breiner CORRESPONDENTS Senior B2b Distribution Manager Michael Wagner Milan: Alessandra Turra, Cynthia Martens (BUSINESS NEWS REPORTER); London: Nina Jones, Lorelei Marfil (Editorial Assistant); Julia Neel (acting london correspondent); Los Angeles: Rachel Brown, Khanh T.L. Tran (News); New York: William Cotto, CONSUMER MARKETING Vicki M. Young (DEPUTY Financial Editor), Evan Clark (DEPUTY Editor, BUSINESS), Taylor Harris (Eye), Tara Bonet-Black, senior Executive Director Ellen Dealy Lauren McCarthy (Editorial Assistants), Andrew Shang (Fashion Assistant); Paris: Jennifer Weil (Beauty), Planning & Operations director John Cross Laurent Folcher,Joelle Diderich, Laure Guilbault, Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant (Editorial Assistant); marketing director Peggy Pyle senior ONLINE manager Suzanne Berardi layout/copydesk ASSISTANT Marketing MANAGEr Alison Christie Copy Chief Maureen Morrison-Shulas Copy EditorS Adam Perkowsky, Matthew W. Evans FAIRCHILD FASHION media art department President & Ceo Group Art Director Andrew Flynn Gina Sanders Associate Art Director Sharon Ber SENIOR Designer Colin Tierney EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT & Chief Revenue Officer Will Schenck JUNIOR Designer Zachary Gilyard consulting art director Kate Cerigo CHIEF MARkETING OFFICER Melissa Brecher VICE PRESIDENT, Finance & Operations Suzanne Reinhardt photography VICE PRESIDENT, general manager, digital Dan Shar Photo Coordinator Erin Fitzgerald vice president, human resources Nicole Zussman photographers John Aquino, George Chinsee, Steve Eichner, Editorial Director, Footwear News & Director Of Brand Development Michael Atmore Kyle Ericksen, Thomas Iannaccone Business Group photo Finance Director Devon Beemer Photo Editor Carrie Provenzano BUSINESS Manager Janet Janoff Associate Photo Editor Lexie Moreland Director Of European Operations Ron Wilson Assistant photo editor Jenna Greene

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Nili Lotan Thakoon Panichgul Maria Snyder Pamela Love Gregory Parkinson Peter Som Tina Lutz Marcia Patmos Kate Spade Bob Mackie John Patrick Gunnar Spaulding CFDA MEMBERS Jeff Mahshie Edward Pavlick Peter Speliopoulos The Council of Fashion Designers of America and the CFDA Foundation Inc. Catherine Malandrino Monique Péan Michael Spirito Colette Malouf Gabriela Perezutti Simon Spurr Isaac Manevitz Patty Perreira Laurie Stark BOARD OF DIRECTORS Esteban Cortazar Douglas Hannant Melissa Joy Manning Lisa Perry Richard Stark Diane von Furstenberg, President Francisco Costa Cathy Hardwick Robert Marc James Perse Cynthia Steffe Michael Kors, Vice President Victor Costa Karen Harman Mary Jane Marcasiano Thuy Pham Shelly Steffee Marcus Wainwright, Vice President Jeffrey Costello Dean Harris Lana Marks Robin Piccone Sue Stemp Selima Salaun, Treasurer Christian Cota Johnson Hartig Paul Marlow Mary Ping Scott Sternberg Vera Wang, General Secretary Erica Courtney Sylvia Heisel Deborah Marquit Jill Platner Robert Stock Steven Cox Joan Helpern Jana Matheson Linda Platt Steven Stolman Keren Craig Carolina Herrera Lisa Mayock Tom Platt Jay Strongwater BOARD MEMBERS Gaby Basora Emily Current Mara Hoffman Jessica McClintock Alexandre Plokhov Jill Stuart Tory Burch Dennis Basso Carly Cushnie Christina Hutson Mary McFadden Laura Poretzky Anna Sui Kenneth Cole Michael Bastian Sandy Dalal Swaim Hutson Kimberly McDonald Zac Posen Koi Suwannagate Philip Crangi Shane Baum Robert Danes Sang A Im-Propp Mark McNairy James Purcell Daiki Suzuki Oscar de la Renta Bradley Bayou Donald Deal Alejandro Ingelmo David Meister Jessie Randall Albertus Swanepoel Stan Herman Vicki Beamon Louis Dell’Olio Henry Jacobson Jonathan Meizler David Rees Robert Tagliapietra Lazaro Hernandez Stacey Bendet Pamela Dennis Eric Javits Jr. Andreas Melbostad William Reid Elie Tahari Tommy Hilfiger Richard Bengtsson Lyn Devon Lisa Jenks Gilles Mendel Robin Renzi Vivienne Tam Carole Hochman Chris Benz Kathryn Dianos Betsey Johnson Gene Meyer Mary Ann Restivo Rebecca Taylor Marc Jacobs Magda Berliner Rachel Dooley Alexander Julian Carlos Miele Brian Reyes Sophie Theallet Norma Kamali Coomi Bhasin Keanan Duffty Gemma Kahng Stefan Miljanic Judith Ripka Olivier Theyskens Reed Krakoff Alexis Bittar Randolph Duke Jen Kao Derrick Miller Patrick Robinson Gordon Thompson 3rd Derek Lam Kenneth Bonavitacola Stephen Dweck Donna Karan Nicole Miller Loree Rodkin Monika Tilley Ralph Lauren Sully Bonnelly Marc Ecko Kasper Malia Mills David Rodriguez Zang Toi Jenna Lyons Eddie Borgo Libby Edelman Ken Kaufman Rebecca Minkoff Eddie Rodriguez Rafe Totengco Jack McCollough Monica Botkier Sam Edelman Jenni Kayne James Mischka Robert Rodriguez John Truex Tracy Reese Marc Bouwer Mark Eisen Shaun Kearney Richard Mishaan Jackie Rogers Trina Turk Narciso Rodriguez Barry Bricken Meritt Elliott Anthony Keegan Yvan Mispelaere Pamella Roland Mish Tworkowski Kara Ross Thom Browne Karen Erickson Rod Keenan Isaac Mizrahi Charlotte Ronson Patricia Underwood Mimi So Dana Buchman George Esquivel Pat Kerr Lauren Moffatt Lela Rose Kay Unger Yeohlee Teng Andrew Buckler Steve Fabrikant Naeem Khan Bibhu Mohapatra Ippolita Rostagno Carmen Marc Valvo Isabel Toledo Sophie Buhai Carlos Falchi Barry Kieselstein-Cord Jeffrey Monteiro Christian Roth Nicholas Varney David Yurman Stephen Burrows Pina Ferlisi Eugenia Kim Claude Morais Cynthia Rowley John Varvatos Anthony Camargo Luis Fernandez Adam Kimmel Paul Morelli Rachel Roy Adrienne Vittadini CFDA MEMBERS Vince Camuto Erin Fetherston Calvin Klein Robert Lee Morris Sonja Rubin Patricia von Musulin Amsale Aberra Kevin Carrigan Andrew Fezza Monica Rich Kosann Miranda Morrison Ralph Rucci Tom Walko Reem Acra Liliana Casabal Cheryl Finnegan Fiona Kotur Marin Rebecca Moses Kelly Ryan Alexander Wang Alexa Adams Edmundo Castillo Eileen Fisher Michel Kramer-Metraux Kate Mulleavy Jamie Sadock Cathy Waterman Adolfo Jean-Michel Cazabat Dana Foley Regina Kravitz Laura Mulleavy Angel Sanchez Heidi Weisel Waris Ahluwalia Salvatore Cesarani Tom Ford Devi Kroell Sandra Muller Behnaz Sarafpour Stuart Weitzman Steven Alan Richard Chai Istvan Francer Nikki Kule Matt Murphy Janis Savitt Trish Wescoat Pound Simon Alcantara Julie Chaiken Isaac Franco Christopher Kunz Blake Mycoskie Arnold Scaasi Carla Westcott Fred Allard Amy Chan R. Scott French Nicholas Kunz Gela Nash-Taylor Jordan Schlanger John Whitledge Linda Allard Natalie Chanin James Galanos Blake Kuwahara Josie Natori Lorraine Schwartz Edward Wilkerson Joseph Altuzarra Kip Chapelle Judy Geib Steven Lagos LeAnn Nealz L’Wren Scott Brian Wolk Carolina Amato Georgina Chapman Nancy Geist Richard Lambertson Charlotte Neuville Ricky Serbin Gary Wolkowitz Ron Anderson Ron Chereskin Robert Geller Adrienne Landau Irene Neuwirth Ronaldus Shamask Jason Wu John Anthony Wenlan Chia Geri Gerard Liz Lange David Neville George Sharp Araks Yeramyan Miho Aoki Susie Cho Tess Giberson Eunice Lee Rozae Nichols Marcia Sherrill Gerard Yosca Nak Armstrong David Chu Flora Gill Judith Leiber Roland Nivelais Sam Shipley Gabriella Zanzani Brian Atwood Eva Chun Chow Justin Giunta Larry Leight Vanessa Noel Tadashi Shoji Katrin Zimmermann Lisa Axelson Doo-Ri Chung Gary Graham Nanette Lepore Maggie Norris Kari Sigerson Rachel Zoe Lubov Azria Patricia Clyne Nicholas Graham Michael Leva Juan Carlos Obando Daniel Silver Italo Zucchelli Max Azria Peter Cohen Rogan Gregory Monique Lhuillier Kerry O’Brien Howard Silver Yigal Azrouël Liz Collins Henry Grethel Andrea Lieberman Michelle Ochs Tabitha Simmons Mark Badgley Michael Colovos Ulrich Grimm Phillip Lim Ashley Olsen Michael Simon cfda.com Nicole Colovos Joy Gryson Johan Lindeberg Mary-Kate Olsen George Simonton Michael Ball twitter.com/cfda Jeffrey Banks Sean Combs George Gublo Marcella Lindeberg Sigrid Olsen Paul Sinclaire facebook.com/cfda Leigh Bantivoglio Rachel Comey Prabal Gurung Adam Lippes Luca Orlandi Pamela Skaist-Levy CFDA.tumblr.com Jhane Barnes Martin Cooper Scott Hahn Deborah Lloyd Ariel Ovadia Michael Smaldone John Bartlett Anna Corinna Sellinger Jeff Halmos Elizabeth Locke Shimon Ovadia Amy Smilovic pinterest.com/cfda Victoria Bartlett Maria Cornejo Tim Hamilton Dana Lorenz Rick Owens Michelle Smith

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w28bCFDA.012a;3.indd 12 5/17/13 12:51 PM 05172013125220 BE GLAMOROUS. BE YOU. BE JEWELED.

COTY CONGRATULATES VERA WANG ON HER CFDA LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD 2013 CFDA NOMINEES FASHION AWARDS AND HONOREES Generously underwritten by Swarovski Monday, June 3, 2013 WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR Alice Tully Hall at Lincoln Center Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, Proenza Schouler The Council of Fashion Designers of America would like to thank Swarovski, Alexander Wang the underwriter of the 2013 CFDA Fashion Awards, for its continued support. Marc Jacobs

The CFDA also thanks Tom and Mara Hutton and the Geoffrey Beene Foundation for its support MENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR of the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award and the Geoffrey Beene Design Scholar Award; Thom Browne Art Ortenberg for the Liz Claiborne Design Scholarship Award; Teen Vogue and Target for the Michael Bastian CFDA/Teen Vogue Scholarship; our president, Diane von Furstenberg, for her leadership; Steven Cox and Daniel Silver, the CFDA members, and the entire industry for its support. Duckie Brown

We are proud to announce that the 2013 CFDA Fashion Awards will be digitally webcast on June 4, ACCESSORY DESIGNER OF THE YEAR only on Style.com, brought to you by Swarovski. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, Proenza Schouler In addition, the CFDA acknowledges the following companies: Alexander Wang Phillip Lim GENEROUS UNDERWRITER Coty Swarovski Dennis Basso SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR WOMENSWEAR eBay Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis, Suno Gap Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters, SPONSORS Geoffrey Beene Creatures of the Wind Ernst & Young LLP, Official Voting Firm H&M Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs, HP, Official Technology Company Hand Baldachin & Amburgey LLP Cushnie et Ochs Lexus, Official Automotive Sponsor Hilldun Corporation Maestro Dobel, Official Spirit Sponsor HL Group SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR MENSWEAR United Airlines, Official Airline InStyle Tim Coppens Veuve Clicquot, Official Champagne Sponsor James LaForce Todd Snyder W Hotels, Official Hotel Sponsor Karen Harvey, Karen Harvey Consulting Group Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, Kate Spade New York Public School PATRONS Kenneth Cole Productions American Express Kohl’s Department Stores SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR ACCESSORY DESIGN Coach Lividini & Co. Pamela Love Condé Nast Lord & Taylor/Hudson’s Bay Company Irene Neuwirth DVF Studio LLC Louis Vuitton Jennifer Meyer Givenchy Michael Kors Hearst Magazines MyHabit MEDIA AWARD IMG Fashion NewLook Fashion & Management Co. Ltd. (In Honor of Eugenia Sheppard) J. Crew Oscar de la Renta Tim Blanks LF USA People StyleWatch Marc Jacobs Ralph Lauren Corporation INTERNATIONAL AWARD The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. Saks Fifth Avenue Riccardo Tisci, Givenchy Westfield World Trade Center Samsung Fashion & Design Fund Vera Wang Shopbop GEOFFREY BEENE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT Sidney Garber AWARD SUPPORTERS Stuart Weitzman Holdings Vera Wang Amazon Fashion Target Corporation Barneys New York The Natori Company FOUNDERS AWARD Belstaff The Neiman Marcus Group (In Honor of Eleanor Lambert) Bergdorf Goodman The Woolmark Company Oscar de la Renta Bloomingdale’s Tommy Hilfiger Calvin Klein Inc. Tory Burch BOARD OF DIRECTORS TRIBUTE Century 21 Stores Vince Camuto Colleen Atwood, American Costume Designer

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A look at CFDA’s special awards for 2013. GEOFFREY BEENE The Honorees LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD smart choice, given controlled inventories and the limited range of fabrics needed to get going. Though unsure she even wanted her own company at that point, the dutiful VERA WANG daughter went for it, always with an eye BRIDAL WAS THE WAY IN. toward ready-to-wear. An ironic one at that, given Vera Wang’s That would come soon enough, when self-classification as a tomboy at heart. Yet Barneys New York was making its move tulle did indeed make Wang the fashion star she uptown to Madison Avenue. Gene Pressman is today—as did chiffon, reembroidered laces and Connie Darrow committed to Wang’s and a chic, artful approach that challenged the “modern illusion dresses in black” from saccharine froth typical of the genre while still sketches. Suddenly, Wang was designing honoring essential traditions. Along the way, rtw, even if her start would hit a few bumps Wang elevated the bridal category to a new along the way. She soon found her voice, her level of relevance. It would make her the most aesthetic an intriguing mix of artful opulence successful, most famous bridal designer on the with a casual undercurrent; as an athlete and planet, the choice for starry-eyed brides from dancer, ease of movement would always be rock stars to girls next door. in the forefront of Wang’s approach to design. None of which Wang anticipated. She “If I look at the clothes just photographed, I merely wanted entrée into the fashion world don’t feel as good,” she says. “Clothes have she’d loved since her childhood days of visiting to move.” Wang’s look was and remains the Paris couture houses with her mother. as daring as it is distinctive. It has proven Wang’s story is well known: Olympic- challenging, particularly as she tries to break hopeful ice skater; beloved father who refused free of the stereotype that she’s an evening to fund fashion school; Sarah Lawrence; 16 specialist. “Bridal implies that you’re limited years at Vogue; an illuminating stint at Ralph to doing ballgowns,” she laments. “I love Lauren (he taught her to break rules). The sportswear, in my own weird way.” lore is that Wang started her company when Wang has found ample ways to expand she was getting married and couldn’t find her reach. With the 2007 launch of Simply a dress that appealed to her high-fashion Vera by Vera Wang for Kohl’s, she became expectations. That lore is but half the one of the first designers to commit to story. Her father Cheng Ching Wang—not a fashion’s high-low duality for the long fashion guy by any measure—saw a business term. She punctuated that resolve by opportunity. “For all the years I wanted him to inking a deal with David’s Bridal in 2010, send me to Central Saint Martins or Chambre helping countless brides whose high-style Syndicale—he wouldn’t do it,” Wang says. aspirations were too often clipped by “Then suddenly, when I’m 39 or 40, he says, budgetary realities. ‘I’d like to help.’ He thought it was time.” The The brand’s global reach extends to 35 brilliant businessman considered bridal a countries, including 17 Vera Wang boutiques. In addition to expected categories such as Fall accessories, eyewear and fragrance, she’s 2013. taken savvy advantage of her queen-of- bridal reputation to move into tabletop, stationery, bedding and, for a time, even mattresses, making Vera Wang a true lifestyle brand. News that she would be recognized with the CFDA’s Lifetime Achievement Award awed and surprised her. “To be respected by your peers—and I don’t mean just the designers, but editors, retailers, everyone who votes—it was just overwhelming. At the same time, I want to feel deserving. Vera That involved looking backwards at my work Wang Bridal, and my own personal journey and hoping I spring haven’t disappointed myself of all people.” 2014. RUNWAY PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; BRIDAL BY THOMAS IANNACCONE MITRA; BRIDAL BY ROBERT PHOTO BY RUNWAY — Bridget Foley

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ZE&)'$  DLQGG 30  FOUNDERS AWARD IN HONOR OF ELEANOR LAMBERT Oscar De la renta OSCAR DE LA RENTA is in a feisty mood as he discusses his recently announced Founders Award, in honor of Eleanor Lambert. “The only award I’m interested in is the one I’m not getting,” he deadpans, the half smile and signature charm doing nothing to disguise the fact that he means exactly what he says. After decades in business; a rock-solid, multigenerational clientele, and accolades galore—he received the CFDA’s Lifetime Fall Achievement Award in 1989—de la Renta covets 2013. Womenswear Designer of the Year. “I’d like to get an award for what I’m doing now, not what I did.” The Founders citation isn’t a designer award at all. Rather, it honors someone who has made “a unique contribution to the world of fashion and/or deserves the industry’s special recognition.” Past winners include a businessman/designer patron (Andrew Rosen), a press triptych (Hal Rubenstein, Tonne Goodman, Jim Moore) and a famed photographer (Patrick Demarchelier). De la Renta is the first designer recipient. If he’s confused as to how he fits in, he shouldn’t be. At once elder statesman, designer of currency and a staunch competitor, he more than meets the uniqueness standard. His thriving business speaks to the loyalty of a core customer long wooed and kept happy, while fashionista fans from Sarah Jessica Parker to Pamela Love indicate an appeal that defies demographic classification. At the shoot for this special CFDA issue, Love couldn’t temper her excitement at meeting de la Renta: “I bought one of your wedding dresses,” she told him. “And I’m already married!” De la Renta faces controversy boldly when he believes in something; hence John Galliano’s now famous “designer in residency” opportunity during the most recent collections season. Nor does he fear challenging the status quo, even if it means ruffling fashionable feathers— including the very institution honoring him. He questions what he considers the CFDA’s hyperfocus on young designers. “The mandate of the CFDA is to promote American fashion,” he says, suggesting that, while “Diane [von Furstenberg] has done an extraordinary, great job,” the organization should spend more time on significant, albeit unsexy, trade issues. “We’re talking about ‘made in the U.S.’ The only way we can be competitive is if our tariffs [on supplies] for import are lower.” De la Renta both speaks his mind and keeps an open mind. He’s one of the few designers—let’s say it, probably the only designer—equally proud to dress a First Lady from either political persuasion. And they love him for it. This summer, at Hillary Clinton’s suggestion, the Clinton Library will house a retrospective of the designer’s clothes. The show opened this month, with a party scheduled on July 8 to accommodate the just-returning couture set. De la Renta wanted to focus on Clinton’s wardrobe; she insisted the spotlight shine on him. The show then goes on tour—to the Bush and Reagan libraries. Its title: “Oscar de la Renta: American Icon.” —B.F. All portraits by george chinsee 17

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INTER NATIONAL RICCARDO TISCI award BORN INTO A large family of meager means, and Alexander McQueen and Julian Macdonald had Indeed, the blending of European and raised in Taranto and Como, Italy, Riccardo Tisci held the design reins.) American fashion sensibilities may be the key to was dreaming about America since he was a Since arriving at Givenchy in 2004, Tisci has Tisci’s appeal. “Europeans sometimes do not care child. “I went to sleep in a little bed in a room with heated up the brand to the boiling point with about wearability. They want dreams to happen. my eight sisters, and on top of my bed was the his pulse-pounding shows, and his inimitable They make collections full of dreams and then American flag,” he recalls in an interview. Tisci blend of streetwear and couture; masculinity they are doing basic commercial collections on would go on to realize his own American Dream in and femininity; darkness and romanticism. And the side, which for me is wrong,” he explains. Europe, following his ambition to work in fashion America has remained a favorite destination, “As for Americans, they concentrate too much and ultimately rising to the crème de la crème of as well as a key reference in his women’s and on urban simplicity and wearability without the Paris fashion establishment—as Givenchy’s men’s collections for Givenchy. “America is a thinking that clothes should have a dream, fifth couturier. As an adolescent, Tisci worked as a very dynamic country—that’s why so much which is also wrong.” Perhaps that explains why delivery boy, store clerk and carpenter to scrabble happens there,” enthuses Tisci, who collaborates American couture clients and department stores together enough money for art school abroad. At frequently with major musical artists including gravitated early to Tisci’s take on Givenchy. Asked 16, he scored a job designing fabrics at a textile Rihanna, Kanye West and Madonna, and his great to account for the reasons he’s popular in the firm, which only fueled his dreams of the runway. friend Marina Abramovic, the performance artist U.S., Tisci says, “One of the most important is And he made it to fashion school abroad, with whom he shares a townhouse in downtown because Americans love European fashion and I attending London’s prestigious Central Saint Manhattan. Tisci said he appreciates “the do love Americans and the American dream. So Martins, the school that produced John Galliano, freedom, the individuality, the multiculturalism, I can combine both. I make with my identity, my Phoebe Philo, Hussein Chalayan and Alexander the easiness of people for wearing clothes” craftsmanship and my creativity what American McQueen’s Sarah Burton. Upon completion of in America, particularly the utilitarian basics people dream of, i.e. easy, dynamic and wearable its B.A. (Hons.) program, Tisci worked in London they favor. References to America in Givenchy collections. But at the same time, they are and Milan, doing stints at Puma, Antonio collections are frequent and diverse, from couture and very designed clothing.” Berardi, Coccopani and Ruffo Research. All the cowboys in his spring 2009 women’s collection Tisci insists it takes “a few years to learn while, he nurtured a Goth-tinged signature label to surf culture, pinups and American sportswear what is really the soul of the house,” and he he designed and crafted himself, with a little for his spring 2012 outing. Since taking on continues to define Givenchy’s distinctive brand help from friends like the arresting, dark-eyed Givenchy men’s wear in 2008, the designer of edgy femininity. Plus he’s only getting warmed model Mariacarla Boscono. Ultimately, his has referenced Fifties workwear, baseball up. “I’ve learn so much at Givenchy, about talent and drive came to the attention of luxury and the iconography of photographer Robert creativity, about how to cut clothes,” he says. giant LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which Mapplethorpe in his collections. And while he continues to mature as a was searching for a talent to lead Givenchy “It’s always been there,” he says of those talent, the Paris power player hasn’t forgotten down an exciting new path. (Following Hubert influences. “I interpret it in my own way because I’m what fascinated him as a child, noting, “I collect de Givenchy’s retirement in 1995, Galliano, European. I play a lot with sexuality, men’s wear…” American flags.” —Miles Socha

board of directors tribute award Colleen Atwood THREE OSCAR wins and 10 nominations haven’t shopper—not being in fashion as a designer—as a such amazing actors. When you start putting clothing on diminished costume designer Colleen Atwood’s j-o-b,” she recalls. “But it taught me a lot. I learned them for a movie, it comes together for a moment in the latest accolade. “This is a major thing for me,” what looks good on people and how to alter clothes room, and you get on with it. They are not fashion designers she notes of her CFDA Board of Directors’ Tribute so they work on the human body.” nor are they costume designers. They are people who have Award. Movie fans know her finery from such After reading a script, Atwood researches in to work and function in a costume and they appreciate films as Chicago, Memoirs of a Geisha and Alice libraries and book stores. (She prefers to hand when it does that for them.” in Wonderland. over online research to others.) “I’m a book Atwood’s on-set uniform is a white shirt and jeans “It’s an interesting time for fashion and person. I like looking through books, daydreaming (preferably Acne, Adriano Goldschmied or vintage Levi’s.) film with the immediacy of the media now,” and finding stuff I don’t expect.” She shops for herself twice a year and can buy an outfit in she says. “Everyone’s designing has become so Burton’s Big Eyes and Michael Mann’s yet-to- 15 minutes flat. “I don’t even try things on mostly. If I see cross-pollinated. It’s great to feel like I’m part of be-named cyber espionage flick are next on her something that is really useful, I know right away. That’s something that I have really never been part of, in a agenda. Atwood has also teamed up with Citizens surprising to people. They ask, ‘Wow, how did you know sense. I am influenced by fashion and always have for Humanity to design a handbag collection that would fit you?’ It’s like, ‘Well, hello, it’s what I do all been, as are fashion people who are influenced by that will launch next year. “There are not that day long,’” she says. film. But it’s nice to have the dialogue between the many actors who actually want to be involved in Gucci, The Row, Victoria Beckham, Prada, Marni and two be noted.” Years before the Yakima, Wash., designing their costumes. It’s more character work Céline are top picks. “I have a little bit of everything—a very

tinez native started collaborating with such directors as with them, creating a whole persona with them,” little bit,” Atwood says. “I would definitely have more if I had r Tim Burton, Rob Marshall and Jonathan Demme, she observes. “It’s a misconception that they’re in more money.” As someone who has more of a working life Atwood worked in an Yves Saint Laurent shop there saying how they want the coat or dress [to than a cocktail-fueled, red-carpet one, Atwood still needs in a Frederick & Nelson store in Seattle, where be.] I have never seen an actor do that.” to figure out what to wear to the CFDA Awards. “I am sort of she graduated from Cornish College. “I started Singling out Charlize Theron, Johnny Depp and worried actually to tell you the truth,” she admits. “So TBD

Photo by Rodolfo Ma Photo by in fashion selling clothes and being a personal Helena Bonham Carter, Atwood says, “They’re just on that one—I need to get on it.” —Rosemary Feitelberg 18

w28bCFDA.018(19)a;29.indd 18 5/17/13 7:18 PM 05172013191858 INTER NATIONAL award Tim Blanks Tim Blanks, honored with this year’s Media Award, more than 100 countries, and a prolific career with moved to Toronto in 1978, with not a whole lot of so many bylines in so many different magazines prospects ahead. He ditched his native New Zealand (Another Magazine, Fantastic Man, Interview and at 18 to pursue a thesis in London on early 20th- more) as to make the London-based Blanks fashion century American Gothic literature—he had wanted media’s globe-trotting editor at large. Fashion TV to write on H.P. Lovecraft—only to get sidetracked by was a novel concept when Blanks started making the remaining dying embers of glam rock. Fashion File. Designers spoke only to a privileged “I was always, always and still am, as anyone audience, and few journalists were on television knows, totally obsessed with David Bowie,” he says, explaining fashion to the masses. “I just approached sipping on a glass of rosé on a recent May afternoon it from the point of view these people had never been in Manhattan’s Meatpacking District. “I had all this filmed speaking about themselves before. money saved up from my postgrad work, and I spent I just wanted to hear what they had to say,” he says. it all. I was having fun until I wasn’t, and then I had The show became immensely popular, especially to change things a little bit.” In Toronto, then in his in countries where fashion wasn’t readily accessible. early 20s, he still bummed around for a long time “All these magazine editors from Russia would go up until a friend offered him an interview for a blip to me at the most inopportune moments and tell me of a magazine called Close Up, now defunct, with it’s how they learned about fashion,” he says. Blanks’ the vaguely ridiculous, and press-shy, Canadian interviewing style hasn’t changed much over the years, interviewer Brian Linehan—Martin Short’s Jiminy and so in his videos at Style.com, where he holds the Glick character is inspired by him. title editor at large, he comes across as the calmest “All these magazines called me afterward,” Blanks man in a room full of peacocks and drama queens. recalls, and that led to a full-time job at the fashion “I have worked in music and I have worked in offshoot of local magazine Toronto Life. “That’s publishing over the course of my life,” he notes. “I do really what got me. It was kind of an accident.” From think fashion brings them all together in a way none that inauspicious interview sprang, when he was 35, of them do. Fashion absorbs more creative energy. I’m Fashion File, the Canadian TV show he hosted from always asked, ‘How can you keep doing it?’ It sounds 1989 to 2006 and that was eventually broadcast in like Pollyanna, but it’s always new.” —Erik Maza

Media Award in honor of Eugenia Sheppard

shopper—not being in fashion as a designer—as a such amazing actors. When you start putting clothing on j-o-b,” she recalls. “But it taught me a lot. I learned them for a movie, it comes together for a moment in the what looks good on people and how to alter clothes room, and you get on with it. They are not fashion designers so they work on the human body.” nor are they costume designers. They are people who have After reading a script, Atwood researches in to work and function in a costume and they appreciate libraries and book stores. (She prefers to hand when it does that for them.” over online research to others.) “I’m a book Atwood’s on-set uniform is a white shirt and jeans person. I like looking through books, daydreaming (preferably Acne, Adriano Goldschmied or vintage Levi’s.) and finding stuff I don’t expect.” She shops for herself twice a year and can buy an outfit in Burton’s Big Eyes and Michael Mann’s yet-to- 15 minutes flat. “I don’t even try things on mostly. If I see be-named cyber espionage flick are next on her something that is really useful, I know right away. That’s agenda. Atwood has also teamed up with Citizens surprising to people. They ask, ‘Wow, how did you know for Humanity to design a handbag collection that would fit you?’ It’s like, ‘Well, hello, it’s what I do all that will launch next year. “There are not that day long,’” she says. many actors who actually want to be involved in Gucci, The Row, Victoria Beckham, Prada, Marni and designing their costumes. It’s more character work Céline are top picks. “I have a little bit of everything—a very with them, creating a whole persona with them,” little bit,” Atwood says. “I would definitely have more if I had she observes. “It’s a misconception that they’re in more money.” As someone who has more of a working life there saying how they want the coat or dress [to than a cocktail-fueled, red-carpet one, Atwood still needs be.] I have never seen an actor do that.” to figure out what to wear to the CFDA Awards. “I am sort of Singling out Charlize Theron, Johnny Depp and worried actually to tell you the truth,” she admits. “So TBD Helena Bonham Carter, Atwood says, “They’re just on that one—I need to get on it.” —Rosemary Feitelberg 19

w28bCFDA.018(19)a;29.indd 19 5/17/13 7:18 PM 05172013191858 work on the human body.” After reading a script, Atwood can be found in research THE NOMINEES libraries and book stores poring over the pages. (She prefers to hand over online research to others.) “I’m a book person. I wear like looking through books, daydreaming Accessory, womens and finding stuff I don’t expect that doesn’t necessarily relate to what I’m doing,” she said. “I like the randomness of it.” Of her collaborators, she says Burton is not a Alexander Wang micromanager, “just a magical human being Only those living under the proverbial rock would and a real treat to work with.” The fact that have missed the fact that the past 12 months have they are both sort of minimalists serves been momentous for Alexander Wang. them well. “It’s about starting with a lot The designer—who continues to bring a special of things and then peeling away layers, so brand of street attitude to New York fashion—not that you find the real heart of something,” only landed the coveted job as creative director at Atwood says. Balenciaga in Paris with an impressive debut. He Burton’s Big Eyes and Michael Mann’s also showed two banner collections for his own yet-to-be-named cyber espionage flick label, i.e. spring’s memorable linear, minimal lineup are next on her agenda. Atwood has also with translucent fish wire, embroidery and eyelet teamed up with Citizens for Humanity details, and a finale of glow-in-the-dark clothes, to design a handbag collection that will followed by fall’s play with rounded proportions launch next year. “There are not that many and fuzzy textures, some inserted with polarized actors who actually want to be involved sunglass lenses. in designing their costumes. It’s more “We always try to explore new areas that we character work with them, creating a whole haven’t touched upon before while maintaining the persona with them,” she observes. “It’s a sensibility of ease and street,” Wang says. misconception that they’re in there saying For fall, that proved true for the venue as well. how they want the coat or dress [to be.] I Fall 2013. Wang shows at lower Manhattan’s Cunard Building, PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY have never seen an actor do that.” Singling from which travelers in the past would set off to Europe. It provided a perfect metaphor for his new, regular cross-Atlantic itinerary. —Marc Karimzadeh

Accessory, womens Lazaro Hernandez and wear Jack McCollough for Proenza Schouler In the decade-plus that moment, in which they Proenza Schouler has been in displayed a keen comfort with business, Lazaro Hernandez subtlety that gave way to a new and Jack McCollough have expression of chic. “There is a rarely had an off year. They are softness to color and form,” says perennially among the nominees Hernandez of fall. “There is an for CFDA awards in one category intimacy to it. You have to get or another, but now, for the closer to actually understand third consecutive year, they what you’re looking at.” have nabbed nominations Between the two seasons, their for both womenswear and accessories veered from the accessories designer of the year. kinetically colorful and edgy— And there’s a strong case to be with bags dotted with Smartie- made that the last 12 months like studs and aggressive have been their strongest yet. open-toe boots for spring—to The designers produced two the elegant simplicity of black knockout collections—spring, a and white kitten heels for fall. potent combination of cultural Another milestone came last July relevance and “randomness,” when Proenza Schouler opened partially inspired by images its first freestanding store in the found on the Internet, partially prime of Madison Avenue real inspired by the work of Gerhard estate designed by architect Richter; and fall, a watershed David Adjaye. —Jessica Iredale

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w28bCFDA.020(21)a;34.indd 20 5/17/13 7:42 PM 05172013194317 womenswear Alexander Wang Marc Jacobs Only those living under the proverbial rock would The last CFDA trophy Marc Jacobs added have missed the fact that the past 12 months have to his collection was the 2011 Geoffrey Beene been momentous for Alexander Wang. Lifetime Achievement Award—or the “half The designer—who continues to bring a special Lifetime Achievement Award,” as Sofia brand of street attitude to New York fashion—not Coppola said when she presented it to him. only landed the coveted job as creative director at Two years later, Jacobs has proved that Balenciaga in Paris with an impressive debut. He his life’s work is far from complete. Back on also showed two banner collections for his own the ballot as a Womenswear Designer of the label, i.e. spring’s memorable linear, minimal lineup Year nominee, Jacobs used Sixties-tinged with translucent fish wire, embroidery and eyelet black-and-white graphics in brute force for details, and a finale of glow-in-the-dark clothes, a highly influential look that trickled down to followed by fall’s play with rounded proportions the mass market almost instantly. and fuzzy textures, some inserted with polarized Meanwhile, his fall collection was sunglass lenses. a reflection on comfort and familiarity, “We always try to explore new areas that we something he drew on in his post-Hurricane haven’t touched upon before while maintaining the Sandy ouster from his New York home. sensibility of ease and street,” Wang says. “It’s very simple, very straightforward,

For fall, that proved true for the venue as well. EE beautiful and nice…glamorous, but [with] Wang shows at lower Manhattan’s Cunard Building, CHINS

E a kind of sadness and melancholy,” Jacobs G

from which travelers in the past would set off to R O

E remarked at the time of the show. “There’s Europe. It provided a perfect metaphor for his new, a romance to it.” —J.I. regular cross-Atlantic itinerary. Fall 2013. —Marc Karimzadeh G PHOTO BY

Phillip Lim for Accessory 3.1 Phillip Lim While Phillip Lim offered accessories sporadically earlier in his career, it wasn’t until fall 2011 that he embraced the Fall 2013. category wholeheartedly with a stand-alone collection and an instant house hit: the Pashli bag, a structured style with a signature double zip. He followed its success with the functional Fall 2013. 31 Hour bag series, and, for fall, added the Ryder group of framed, but slouchier, designs. “I like to design accessories that are pragmatic but don’t compromise aesthetics as a result of function,” Lim says. Lim ere

also designs shoes, sunglasses g E

and small leather goods. The e Feu category’s success has been—and phan e t

PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY will continue to be—instrumental in his business’ growth. “The accessories really complete PHOTO BY S PHOTO BY the overall look for me, so they are integral,” he adds, “and are designed with the same THOMAS IANNACCON PHOTO BY sensibility in mind.” —M.K. 21

w28bCFDA.020(21)a;34.indd 21 5/17/13 7:42 PM 05172013194317 THE NOMINEES PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY

Fall 2013.

Fall 2013.

Michael Bastian Don’t call Michael Bastian a preppy designer. It’s a longtime appellation he aimed to explode this past year, developing his aesthetic with a sexed-up spring show that referenced Fire Island hedonism and Donna Summer dissolution—and then injecting a darker twist with a fall collection that incorporated elements of Goth and grunge. “Frankly, I’m getting a little bored with preppy. This year we really pushed ourselves mensw and expanded the borders of who the Michael ear Bastian guy is,” says the designer. “It might be a little risky, but it’s better than staying in the same place.” That bet has paid off with THOM BROWNE his sixth CFDA nomination, including four The year started off with a presidential-level coup for Thom Browne is now sold in 123 stores for men previously for Menswear Designer of the Thom Browne when First Lady Michelle Obama wore and 40 for women, with key retail partners including Year—winning the honor in 2011—and one for his coat and dress designs for her husband’s second Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys New York, Dover Street the men’s emerging designer award. Bastian, inauguration ceremony in January. The Washington Market and Colette. This month Browne opened a who also designs a co-branded line with seal of approval came as Browne’s business has gained Tokyo flagship in the fashionable Aoyama district, the Gant, launched a capsule polo shirt range momentum and his theatrical take on runway shows company’s second retail unit following its New York with Uniqlo this spring. Come fall, he’ll open has garnered wide acclaim. store in TriBeCa. his first pop-up store in New York with arts “The way I approached my shows this past year was Brown, who won the Menswear Designer of the organization BOFFO. Hinting at his upcoming more conceptual and installation-based,” says Browne Year award in 2006, notes, “It’s nice to be nominated spring 2014 runway show, Bastian says he’s of his Paris men’s shows, which included mythological with Michael [Bastian] and the Duckie Brown guys, as ready to further expand the label’s horizons satyrs and giant Slinkys in a garden for spring and an it seems like the four of us have grown up together.” with some international flair beyond its Amish barn set for fall. —David Lipke New England roots. —D.L. 22

w28bCFDA.022(23)b;28.indd 22 5/17/13 6:34 PM 05172013183523 menswear Steven Cox and Daniel Silver for Duckie Brown Designed by Steven Cox and Daniel Silver, Duckie Brown launched in 2001 and has been a regular at New York Fashion Week since then. The line blends whimsical sportswear with elegant tailoring through a signature series of twists on proportion and bright, playful colors. For fall, a more sophisticated aesthetic focused on coats, and pieces like an elongated, knee-length black sweatshirt and a cropped raw denim jacket illustrated the designers’ ability to inject elegance while still managing to stay directional. Besides the core line, the duo also designs footwear for Florsheim and the Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown collection. The designers say, “Revisions of masculinity and a meditation on proportion are the ideas behind the last two Duckie Brown collections…the cornerstones of what Duckie Brown is about.” —Jean E. Palmieri

ear Michael Bastian mensw Don’t call Michael Bastian a preppy designer. It’s a longtime appellation he aimed to explode this past year, developing his aesthetic with a sexed-up spring show that referenced Fire Island hedonism and Donna Summer dissolution—and then injecting PHOTO BY PASHA ANTONOV PASHA PHOTO BY a darker twist with a fall collection that incorporated elements of Goth and grunge. “Frankly, I’m getting a little bored with preppy. This year we really pushed ourselves and expanded the borders of who the Michael Bastian guy is,” says the designer. “It might be a little risky, but it’s better than staying in the same place.” That bet has paid off with his sixth CFDA nomination, including four previously for Menswear Designer of the Year—winning the honor in 2011—and one for Fall 2013. the men’s emerging designer award. Bastian, who also designs a co-branded line with Gant, launched a capsule polo shirt range with Uniqlo this spring. Come fall, he’ll open his first pop-up store in New York with arts organization BOFFO. Hinting at his upcoming spring 2014 runway show, Bastian says he’s ready to further expand the label’s horizons with some international flair beyond its New England roots. —D.L. 23

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wear Max Osterweis, Erin Beatty, Carly Cushnie, Michelle Ochs, omens Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters. vski w swaro

Carly Cushnie Shane Gabier and Max Osterweis and Michelle Christopher Peters and Erin Beatty Ochs for for Creatures for Suno Cushnie et Ochs of the Wind A LABEL WITH A CONSCIENCE. It’s what Max Osterweis Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs Bonafide fashion intellectuals, Shane Gabier and set out to do with Suno, the collection named for his know how to make a racy dress. The Christopher Peters hail from the academic side of the discipline. mother, in 2008. After witnessing the post-election fallout transatlantic duo—Cushnie is a native Gabier holds a teaching position at the Art Institute of Chicago, in Kenya, Osterweis started manufacturing in Nairobi Brit, Ochs is American; both graduated where he and Peters met while the latter was a student. to employ locals to generate domestic opportunities. from Parsons the New School for Design— The past year in the life of their quirky label can be looked Designing with Erin Beatty, a Generra and Gap alum, conveys a sensual aesthetic with a at as an education in the big leagues of fashion. They staged production now also includes India and Peru. signature silhouette that is sculptural and their first proper runway show for spring, with a collection These influences combine for a colorful collection runs along female curves, which are often that pushed their unique vision of eccentricity and nerdy chic with an eclectic vibe and mismatched prints, like fall’s accentuated by sexy cutouts. in a more commercial direction without sacrificing originality. Russian folk theme with golden paisley and floral The way Cushnie sees it, the look Fall, titled “Candy” for its synthetic, superficial appeal in handkerchief patterns. embodies “a minimal aesthetic with terms of fabric and surface interest, was a further evolution “[The past two] collections found us playing with a classic edge, that is sharp and sexy, in the duo’s increasingly chic vision for their glamour geeks. pattern and texture as we normally do, but with a much highlighting the female form and defining They’ve been embraced by fashion’s inner circle, and the greater sense of intention than before,” Osterweis says. the modern woman.” “Bold, sensual and designers, who have kept their distance from the American Adds Beatty, “We strive to be real in what we design— alluring,” Ochs adds. Among those who epicenter of the business by working out of Chicago, are exploring contradictions, easing toward something have worn the label are Eva Longoria, reciprocating: Creatures of the Wind is opening a New York that feels grounded but whimsical at once—effortless Elizabeth Hurley, Jessica Alba and First studio to help them split their time between Manhattan and thoughtful.” —Marc Karimzadeh Lady Michelle Obama. —M.K. and Chicago. —Jessica Iredale 24

w28bCFDA.024(25)a;23.indd 24 5/17/13 7:28 PM 05172013192859 wwd XXXXXXX | Section II Tim Coppens, Todd Snyder, Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow. TODD SNYDER Todd Snyder has a strong pedigree. Before launching his own collection in 2011, the Iowa native spent 18 years at Polo Ralph Lauren and J. Crew. At Crew, he’s credited with introducing tailored clothing; forming collaborations with heritage brands like Timex, Red Wing, Thomas Mason and Alden, and opening the company’s first men’s- only store, the Liquor Store, in New York’s TriBeCa in 2008. Those influences are evident in his own designs, which mix British tailoring with American vintage. In a rugged fall collection, Snyder blended motorcycle-style leather jackets and double-breasted horsehide bombers with shearling collars together with slim-fitting tweed pants and skinny suits in stretch knit that spoke to his sartorial roots. “I really felt like I turned a corner this year,” he says. “I’m taking a lot more risk and getting out of my comfort zone. My collections are still rooted in old-world men’s wear, but I’ve pushed the technical side of things and used more experimental fabrics. It’s edgier, but still wearable.” —Jean E. Palmieri

Shane Gabier and swar Christopher Peters ovski menswear for Creatures DAO-YI CHOW AND of the Wind MAXWELL OSBORNE FOR Bonafide fashion intellectuals, Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters hail from the academic side of the discipline. TIM COPPENS PUBLIC SCHOOL Gabier holds a teaching position at the Art Institute of Chicago, Even before launching his own label in fall athletic street classics like bomber jackets Founded in 2008, Public School relaunched last year after a two- where he and Peters met while the latter was a student. 2011, Belgium-born designer Tim Coppens and parkas with voluminous sleeves, year hiatus in which designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne The past year in the life of their quirky label can be looked had developed a serious résumé. He earned a sweatshirts embellished with graphic prints participated in the CFDA Incubator program. at as an education in the big leagues of fashion. They staged degree from the acclaimed Fashion Academy and sleek dress pants cinched at the bottom. “We wanted to refocus the business and start with a clean their first proper runway show for spring, with a collection in Antwerp in 1998, did a stint at Bogner in “These past two seasons, I established slate so we stopped shipping product,” Chow explains. that pushed their unique vision of eccentricity and nerdy chic Munich and then moved to Adidas, where he consistency, building a foundation for the The tactic led to a reinvigorated vision and business plan, in a more commercial direction without sacrificing originality. spearheaded the development of its high-end brand that is recognizable and wearable while including partnerships with new factories and mills, new financial Fall, titled “Candy” for its synthetic, superficial appeal in men’s performance line. at the same time continuing to push the backing and a new production strategy based in New York. terms of fabric and surface interest, was a further evolution A few years later, he was lured to New York envelope conceptually,” Coppens said. Distribution for the label now includes Bloomingdale’s, Odin, Ron in the duo’s increasingly chic vision for their glamour geeks. to become design director for Ralph Lauren’s “Spring was influenced by World War II Herman and Harvey Nichols. They’ve been embraced by fashion’s inner circle, and the performance line, RLX. fighter pilot uniforms and graphics from The brand’s most recent collections have focused on marrying designers, who have kept their distance from the American It’s no surprise, then, that Coppens’ designs the early Detroit techno scene, while fall modern tailoring to active sportswear pieces, all while playing with epicenter of the business by working out of Chicago, are infuse activewear influences and technical was more an exploration of street culture proportions and layering longer silhouettes with shorter ones. reciprocating: Creatures of the Wind is opening a New York details with classic men’s wear tailoring. In his and skateboard references from my youth Leather jackets are a constant signature item. studio to help them split their time between Manhattan first runway show for fall, Coppens delivered in Belgium, both embodying a spirit of what “When you think of a leather jacket and the attitude it captures,” and Chicago. —Jessica Iredale a youthful, focused effort centered on iconic, could be Urban Utopia.” —J.E.P says Osborne, “that’s what Public School is about.” —David Lipke 25

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RIES i ACCESSO ovsk swar

IRENE NEUWIRTH JENNIFER MEYER PAMELA LOVE Los Angeles native Irene Neuwirth was a pioneer Fashion publicist-turned-jeweler Jennifer Meyer Maguire As her name suggests, Pamela Love is jewelry’s in the use of raw stones for her unique jewelry that is was introduced to jewelry design through her grandmother, ultimate hippy chick. Her down-to-earth personal characterized by the prominent use of opals, as well who taught her how to make enamel jewelry. She launched her aesthetic comes across in her jewelry, with themes as chrysoprase, labradorite and moonstone among namesake line in 2005 and quickly became known for nameplate like astrology and alchemy as well as Native others. The bold pieces have gained her a cultlike necklaces and initial and wishbone motifs that were meant to be American motifs and medieval iconography. following that boasts clients including Emma very personal and worn every day. She has a passion for and is committed to Stone, Reese Witherspoon, Scarlett Johansson, “Last year was all about pushing myself out of my comfort sustainability and localized production in and Zoe Saldana and Charlize Theron since the brand zone,” says Maguire. around New York City, where she is based. Her launched in 2000. Katie Holmes, Jennifer Aniston and Kate Hudson were among work has led to several collaborations with J. Crew, “This past year, I put my head down and truly her early adopters. Recently her pieces include bolder items with Topshop and Opening Ceremony, and has won focused on the business,” Neuwirth says. “I’m so a nature theme and stones like black diamonds, turquoise and awards such as the CFDA Lexus Eco Challenge proud of the collection and the risks that I’ve taken rubies. Her current collection took inspiration from husband Tobey in 2012 and was the Ecco Domani Fashion Fund with my designs. I love seeing how people respond Maguire’s role in The Great Gatsby with a delicate Deco-style winner in 2011. This is the third time she has been to my work and it’s so validating when I travel for bracelet. This is her first nomination for the Swarovski Award for nominated for the CFDA Swarovski Award for trunk shows and receive feedback from my clients Accessory Design. Accessory Design. and collectors. The support and brand awareness “The last year has been incredible for me and my company, and I “Although it’s always wonderful to win, there has just grown organically from there.” directly relate that to my involvement with the CFDA/Vogue Fashion is something really rewarding about knowing that This is Neuwirth’s second consecutive Fund,” says Maguire, who was a runner-up in 2012. “It gave me new I have been nominated by my peers multiple years nomination for the Swarovski Award for Accessory perspective on my business and where I want it to go. The nomination in a row,” says Love. “It tells me that I’m doing Design since becoming a CFDA member in 2009. came as a complete surprise—to be so embraced by people I truly look something right. I’m keeping my fingers crossed —Roxanne Robinson up to on a personal and professional level is quite humbling.” —R.R. this year.” —R.R. 26

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at DAVID’S BRIDAL