SPECIAL EDITION PARIS Just Enoughso Thechloégirl Frills Didn’T Feel Marooned
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SPECIAL EDITION Fashion. Beauty. Business. PARISSEPTEMBER 30, 2016 The Collections ShowParis Bow Clare Waight Keller looked to the sea for inspiration for her Chloé spring collection, which was full of nautical references — knots, cords, naval flag motifs, sailor collars and pants — and just enough frills so the Chloé girl didn’t feel marooned. Here, a navy dress with giant bows on each shoulder. For more on Paris, see pages 6 to 10. Photograph by Delphine Achard by Photograph creativity ı productions ı logistics BRANDART BRANDART usa italy www.brandart.it 6 East 74th Street 3rd Floor Via Andrea Costa, 19, 21052 New York NY 10021-USA [email protected] Busto Arsizio (VA)-italy +19173883186 +390331634392 SEPTEMBER 30, 2016 3 FASHION much as I like it — you need powerful new product ideas at Bottega Veneta. The funny thing is that you had some — like Intarsia — Claus-Dietrich Lahrs but you could not find them anywhere.” TOP 5 Solca wondered if Lahrs “will be able to bring execution and operations discipline to Bottega Veneta. He is certainly in for a TRENDING Named Bottega CEO challenge.” He noted that Lahrs and Bottega ON WWD.COM Veneta creative director Tomas Maier both ● He succeeds Carlo Alberto after poor results in 2015 and a profit speak German. “Will that be enough to find Beretta, who will take on the warning for 2016, Lahrs exited by mutual common ground? We will see.” agreement. Prior to Boss, Lahrs held Maier is marking 15 years of leading new role of chief client and management positions at Cartier, Louis the creative direction of the brand. At the marketing officer at Kering. Vuitton and Christian Dior Couture. end of the spring show last week, which Pinault said, “We are delighted to combined the brand’s men’s and women’s BY LUISA ZARGANI AND JOELLE DIDERICH welcome Claus-Dietrich Lahrs to Bottega collections and saw Lauren Hutton close MILAN — Just days after the celebration Veneta and to Kering. His outstanding the event hand-in-hand with Gigi Hadid, of Bottega Veneta’s 50th anniversary, par- experience and extensive knowledge of Maier gave credit to his team, taking a ent company Kering said Thursday that the luxury market will be crucial in the bow with his group of designers. Claus-Dietrich Lahrs had been appointed management of the exceptional maison Citi’s Thomas Chauvet underscored the Italian firm’s new chief executive offi- that Bottega Veneta is. I am confident he that Bottega Veneta accounts for around cer, succeeding Carlo Alberto Beretta. will build on what has been accomplished 15 to 20 percent of Kering luxury divi- Lahrs, who will join the group’s execu- so far within the house and accelerate sion’s sales and operating profit, respec- tive committee, will officially assume the its development.” tively, seeing “a significant deceleration in helm at Bottega Veneta on Tuesday. Beretta and Lahrs were not available revenue trends over the past 12 months,” in Beretta will take on the newly created for comment at press time. particular since the last quarter last year. role of chief client and marketing officer Bottega Veneta remains one of Kering’s “With this appointment, the game of at Kering, also on Tuesday. He will report core brands, although, like most of its musical chairs of ceo’s and designers in directly to Francois- Henri Pinault, chair- peers, it has been impacted by the luxury the luxury industry seems to continue,” man and ceo of the French group, and will downturn. The brand reported sales of said Chauvet. remain on the group’s executive committee. 571.2 million euros, or $637.4 million, in “Risks around Bottega Veneta’s future Beretta will monitor the equity of the the first half, down 9.2 percent in reported growth were more visible at the end of brands in the group’s portfolio; help estab- terms and 9.1 percent at comparable 2014,” before Beretta joined the company, Maison Margiela, lish “a comprehensive, measurable and exchange rates. Recurring operating when the brand was on an upswing and profitable customer culture” for each of income for the first six months of 2016 had reached revenues of 1.1 billion euros, Lanvin and Dries them, and speed the development of the totaled 145 million euros, or $162 million. said Chauvet. He cited issues then such as group’s omnichannel capabilities. “Revenue generated in directly operated “limited product diversification beyond Van Noten RTW Pinault said, “I wanted to give our mai- stores was heavily weighed down by lower the Intrecciato bag lines, imbalanced sons exceptional support and expertise in tourism in Western Europe, whereas sales pricing architecture/high price inflation, Spring 2017 what is their main challenge in the years to local customers improved in that region,” over-dependence on the Chinese and to come: the ability to meet their custom- Kering said at the time. tourist clientele, lack of retail develop- ● All three houses offered ers’ needs and fulfill their desires. I am It noted that in emerging markets, ment in the U.S., under-investment in exhilarating collections that therefore happy to appoint Carlo Alberto which accounted for 45.3 percent of the A&P and limited brand awareness in Beretta, who has demonstrated the brand’s total revenue for the period, developed markets.” were a heady exploration of qualities required to realise our ambitious Bottega Veneta’s direct sales rose 3.2 Chauvet said he believed “the market creative unsettling. customer strategy.” percent on a comparable basis, with a will question whether Mr. Lahrs is the Beretta started his career in 1993 at the significantly faster pace of growth in the right person for the Bottega Veneta job, ● Italian department store La Rinascente second quarter. owing to the challenging situation Hugo Ukrainian Prankster as senior buyer. He spent over seven “The upswing in business was mainly Boss (Mr. Lahrs’ former employer) is cur- Lunges at Kim Kardashian years there, winding up as merchandising attributable to Chinese customers repatri- rently facing in terms of brand position- at Paris Fashion Week manager for men’s wear. He was then ating their purchasing to their domestic ing and retail execution.” appointed men’s wear brand manager at market and certain regional Asia-Pacific That said, Lahrs’ experience at Louis ● Watch: Donald Trump Valentino. In 2003 he joined the Erme- markets rather than buying in mature Vuitton Germany/North America and Dior Body Shame Kim negildo Zegna group, working 11 years, markets,” it added. Couture, will help address some of the Kardashian in HLN Report eventually rising to retail development Commenting on Lahrs’ appointment issues the brand is facing, he added. director. He was appointed ceo of Bottega as ceo, Luca Solca, managing director at Chauvet observed that Bottega Veneta ● New Study Concludes Veneta in January 2015. Exane BNP Paribas, said Thursday that over the past couple of years had been Lahrs stepped down at Hugo Boss in “there was an urgent need to do some- trying to expands its customer base with Influencers Rule the Social February after eight years. While at the thing at Bottega Veneta, as the brand sales lower priced categories, such as belts Media Beauty Landscape German brand, he oversaw its rapid are falling fast.” and scarves, as well as fragrances, “with expansion worldwide at retail and whole- Solca attributed the situation to “a lack mixed results.” If Lahrs will pursue that ● Vionnet, Purple Magazine sale, as well as the growth of its women’s of product innovation: Intrecciato is still strategy, the company will need “larger Party in Paris division, appointing Jason Wu as creative most of what you see; however, it has now stores (and greater retail presence in devel- director of the women’s collection. But become boring. The same as you could oped markets)” and a boost in spending to Boss stumbled in the last few years and not sustain Gucci on the bamboo bag — as increase brand awareness. ■ NEWSMAKERS RETAIL The board and I are confident in his This Week’s Most ability to guide our associates and to Talked About Names Stein Mart CEO Resigns continue implementing our strong sales In Our Industry strategies.” turnaround like Deb Stores and served Stein Mart also gave a preview of its ● Dawn Robertson quit the as president at Old Navy for a time. comparable-store sales for the third post after seven months as Stein Mart’s president and chief oper- quarter, saying they had decreased about sales slide in the latest quarter. ating officer D. Hunt Hawkins has been 4 percent through September 27 com- named interim ceo. He has been at the pared to last year. With sales lower than BY DEBRA BORCHARDT company since 1994, where he started expected, the third quarter will take a hit Dawn Robertson has resigned as his career there in the human resources on the gross profit rate. The company will Stein Mart Inc.’s chief executive officer, department. Stein Mart has said it will also take a $1.6 million charge related to Dries Van Noten Michael Strahan chief merchandising officer begin searching for a new chief mer- Robertson’s departure. and director effective chandising officer. Robertson tried to shift the com- immediately. Robertson “Some of the sales initiatives pany away from newspaper advertising has only been in the that have been developed under towards other forms of newer media in role since March. Dawn’s leadership are import- an attempt to increase store traffic. She She has 25 years of ant for our future and we will was also striving to being in a younger, executive retail expe- continue to cultivate them to more modern customer.