Downloading Or Purchasing Online At
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Load more
Recommended publications
-
Phd Thesis Eindhoven University of Technology, Eindhoven, the Netherlands Door
CRAFTING SUSTAINABLE SMART TEXTILE SERVICES Kristi Kuusk Crafting sustainable smart textile services Kristi Kuusk Crafting sustainable smart textile services PROEFSCHRIFT ter verkrijging van de graad van doctor aan de A catalogue record is available from the Eindhoven University of Technology Library Technische Universiteit Eindhoven, op gezag van ISBN 978-90-386-4020-4 de rector magnificus prof.dr.ir. F.P.T. Baaijens, voor een commissie aangewezen door het College voor Promoties, in het openbaar te verdedigen op Title Crafting sustainable smart textile services donderdag 18 februari 2016 om 14:00 uur ISBN 978-90-386-4020-4 Graphic design Kerstin Zabransky Cover Kerstin Zabransky Copy edits Terry Lavender PhD thesis Eindhoven University of Technology, Eindhoven, the Netherlands door Copyright © 2016 Kristi Kuusk Kristi Kuusk All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronically or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and geboren te Pärnu, Estland retrieval system without written permission of the author. Dit proefschrift is goedgekeurd door de promotoren en de samenstelling van de promotie- commissie is als volgt: voorzitter: prof.dr.ir. A.C. Brombacher 1e promotor: prof.dr. R. Wakkary copromotor(en): dr.ir. S.A.G. Wensveen dr. O. Tomico Plasencia leden: prof.dr. L.-L. Chen prof.dr. N. Nimkulrat (Estonian Academy of Arts) ir. K. van Os (Philips Research) dr. K. Niinimäki (Aalto University, School of Arts, Design and Architecture) Het onderzoek of ontwerp dat in dit proefschrift wordt beschreven is uitgevoerd in overeenstemming met de TU/e Gedragscode Wetenschapsbeoefening. -
Designing Embodied Smart Textile Services : the Role of Prototypes for Project, Community and Stakeholders
Designing embodied smart textile services : the role of prototypes for project, community and stakeholders Citation for published version (APA): ten Bhömer, M. (2016). Designing embodied smart textile services : the role of prototypes for project, community and stakeholders Eindhoven: Technische Universiteit Eindhoven Document status and date: Published: 18/02/2016 Document Version: Publisher’s PDF, also known as Version of Record (includes final page, issue and volume numbers) Please check the document version of this publication: • A submitted manuscript is the version of the article upon submission and before peer-review. There can be important differences between the submitted version and the official published version of record. People interested in the research are advised to contact the author for the final version of the publication, or visit the DOI to the publisher's website. • The final author version and the galley proof are versions of the publication after peer review. • The final published version features the final layout of the paper including the volume, issue and page numbers. Link to publication General rights Copyright and moral rights for the publications made accessible in the public portal are retained by the authors and/or other copyright owners and it is a condition of accessing publications that users recognise and abide by the legal requirements associated with these rights. • Users may download and print one copy of any publication from the public portal for the purpose of private study or research. • You may not further distribute the material or use it for any profit-making activity or commercial gain • You may freely distribute the URL identifying the publication in the public portal. -
Natural Materials for the Textile Industry Alain Stout
English by Alain Stout For the Textile Industry Natural Materials for the Textile Industry Alain Stout Compiled and created by: Alain Stout in 2015 Official E-Book: 10-3-3016 Website: www.TakodaBrand.com Social Media: @TakodaBrand Location: Rotterdam, Holland Sources: www.wikipedia.com www.sensiseeds.nl Translated by: Microsoft Translator via http://www.bing.com/translator Natural Materials for the Textile Industry Alain Stout Table of Contents For Word .............................................................................................................................. 5 Textile in General ................................................................................................................. 7 Manufacture ....................................................................................................................... 8 History ................................................................................................................................ 9 Raw materials .................................................................................................................... 9 Techniques ......................................................................................................................... 9 Applications ...................................................................................................................... 10 Textile trade in Netherlands and Belgium .................................................................... 11 Textile industry ................................................................................................................... -
Safeguards 09508 Quantitative Analysis of Animal Fibres.Pub
SAFEGUARDS SGS CONSUMER TESTING SERVICES SOFTLINES NO. 095/08 NOVEMBER 2008 TESTING STANDARDS FOR QUANTITATIVE ANALYSIS OF ANIMAL FIBRES BY MICROSCOPY - CASHMERE, WOOL, SPECIALITY FIBRES AND THEIR BLENDS Natural fibres are used extensively in today’s textile market in the return fashion on demanding natural and comfort feelings and environmental awareness. Cashmere named as “soft gold” due to its softness and rarity. It was only available to imperial families in the past, although Cashmere has become more affordable nowadays. Substitution of Cashmere with wool or other animal fibres can lead to big rewards due to the huge price difference between fibres. However, mislabeling of textile products can cause huge loss with fine and product recall, or even worse, to lose the reputation in the market. In January 2007, a law has been made in United States with stricter measurement in Cashmere labeling to protect buyers and consumer’s benefit and it is becoming the trend of luxury fibre protection globally. The Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute (CCMI) has also their definition for Cashmere. Therefore, understanding the fibre identification and testing procedures and ensuring your products labelled correctly will help you prevent unnecessary loss. SOFTLINES NO. 095/08 NOVEMBER 2008 P.2 Currently, there are some testing methods to be used for quantitative analysis of animal fibres by microscopy - Cashmere, wool, specialty fibres and their blends. • AATCC 20A-- Fibre Analysis: Quantitative, section 14— microscopical analysis procedures, • ISO 17751 – Quantitative analysis of animal fibres by microscopy - Cashmere, wool, speciality fibres and their blends (including Light Microscope & Scanning Electron Microscope method), The Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute defines cashmere as: • IWTO-58 – Scanning Electron Microscopic analysis of • The fine (dehaired) undercoat fibers produced by a Cashmere goat (Capra hircus speciality fibres and sheep’s laniger). -
Wool & Fine Fiber Book
WOOL & FINE FIBER BOOK tactile perspectives from our land CONTENTS WOOL & FINE FIBER BOOK / PART ONE INTRODUCTORY Amanda , Ed & Carrie Sparrevohn Erin Maclean PAGES: Gabrielle Mann & John Ham Bungalow Farm Angora Mann Family Farm Kirabo Pastures Sacramento, CA • Why would you use this Bolinas, CA Upper Lake, CA book? & Who might use this Hopland Research book? Ariana & Casey Mazzucchi Catherine Lawson and Extension Center Casari Ranch Blue Barn Farm Hopland, CA • How might you use this Point Arena, CA El Dorado, CA book? & Examples of Janet Heppler Blending Audrey Adams Dan Macon Nebo-Rock Ranch Tombstone Livestock Flying Mule Farm & Textiles • Natural Dyes ~ Sanger, CA Auburn, CA Covelo, CA Creating Another Layer Barbara & Ron Fiorica Dana Foss Jean Near • Annual Production, Caprette Cashmere Royal Fibers Utopia Ranch Quantity, Color, and & Love Spun Homespun Dixon, CA Redwood Valley, CA Price List Wilton, CA Deb Galway Jim Jensen • Acknowledgements Beverly Fleming Menagerie Hill Ranch Jensen Ranch Ewe & Me 2 Ranch Vacaville, CA Tomales, CA PRODUCER PAGES: Cotati, CA Dru Rivers Alexis & Gillies Robertson Bodega Pastures Full Belly Farm Skyelark Ranch Bodega, CA Guinda, CA Brooks, CA WOOL & FINE FIBER BOOK / PART TWO Julie & Ken Rosenfeld Leslie Adkins Mary Pettis-Sarley Sandra Charlton Renaissance Ridge Alpacas Heart Felt Fiber Farm Twirl Yarn Sheepie Dreams Organics Mount Aukum, CA Santa Rosa, CA Napa, CA Santa Cruz, CA Katie & Sascha Grutter Lynn & Jim Moody Maureen Macedo Sandy Wallace GC Icelandics Blue Oak Canyon Ranch Macedo’s -
Microfibers Lesson (Approximately 30-40 Mins)
Microfibers Lesson (Approximately 30-40 mins) Intro – (pairs/small groups) • Tell youth: “Take a moment and think about all the things you use and/or come in contact with each day that are made of plastic.” • In pairs/small groups: brainstorm/write list of plastic items they use in everyday life (2 mins) • Share out some items • How does plastic get into our waterways and the Puget Sound? (littering, stormdrains, boats/ships….washing our clothes!) • Alarming stat: More than 400 million tons of plastic are produced worldwide each year, with over 8 million tons winding up in the oceans. Huge contributor to plastic pollution in our waterways are: MICROFIBERS. What do you know about microfibers? • What are microfibers? o Tiny strands of plastic (>5mm) that are woven together to create synthetic fabrics o Synthetic fabrics = polyester, acrylic, spandex, nylon, rayon (Natural fabrics = cotton, wool) o **Have people look at tags on their shirts, jackets, etc., and see how many people are wearing synthetic clothing** o A recent study: of all the human-made material found on the shoreline across the globe, 85% were microfibers and matched the types of material (such as nylon & polyester) used in clothing. Microfibers video - Is Your Fleece Jacket Polluting the Oceans? • Stop the video at :53 and study the graphics: What do they mean? • Stop at 3:30 – Small group discussion: o How should this problem be solved? Who is responsible? Have youth think about what steps they would take to solve this problem. Write these potential responsible parties on the board: Wastewater treatment plants, washing machine manufacturers, individuals/consumers, clothing companies, corporations creating these synthetic fibers from petroleum, government o Have groups share out ideas and write them on the board. -
Journal of American Science 2015;11(2)
Journal of American Science 2015;11(2) http://www.jofamericanscience.org Relationships among Physical, Chemical and Industrial Characteristics of Different Dromedary Camel's Hair Types Helal, A. Animal & Poultry Production Division, Desert Research Center, Egypt. [email protected] Abstract: Three hundred kg of raw camel-hair fibers (Magrabi camels) were collected during shearing season from Camel Research Station located in Matroh Governorate. The amount of camel-hair was subjectively classified into four categories control (C1, has no classification), coarse brown fibers (C2), coarser with white fibers liken to wool kemp fiber (C3) and fine fibers (C4). Results indicate that fine camel hair contains higher amount of B, Cd, Co, Cr, Fe, Mn, Ni and S compared with coarse fibers, while coarse fibers had higher Mo, Pb and Zn than fine fibers. Coarse fibers had the highest values of amino acids (THR, SER, GLU, GLY, ALA, VAL, MET, ILE, LEU, TYR, PHE, HIS, LYS, ARG and PRO). Sulfur content of camel hair takes an opposite trend of both MET and CYS with FD, SDFD, B-force, CV of B-force, CV of tenacity, yarn metric count, Twists/meter, twist multipliers and abrasion. Copper, which involved in forming pigments found to be higher in brown coarse categories C1 and C2. Hair bundle elongation reached the maximum in C4 (34.4%), while the lowest percentage found in C3 (4.6%). Category (4) had higher twist multipliers 2.4, 2.5 and 2.6 times those of C3, C2 and C1, respectively. Fine fibers selecting subjectively from the camel-hair fleeces had a good quality as raw material and yarn. -
Pashmina Shawls
Pashmina Shawls March 27, 2021 About Pashmina Shawls In 2019, the Bureau of India Standards (BIS) published an Indian standard for identification, marking and labelling the Pashmina Shawls for its purity. Pashmina Shawls are a fine variant of shawls spun from cashmere wools. A cashmere wool itself is obtained from the Changthangi goat native to the high plateau of Ladakh. Pashmina Shawls status symbol not just for the wealthy in Indian but even across the world, known for its soft features, The shawl made up of pashmina wool was promoted as an alternative to Shahtoosh shawl. Shahtoosh Shawls is made from the Tibetan Antelope. Due to demand for Shahtoosh, the shawl had wiped out 90% of the Tibetan Antelope. To preserve what population is left, other alternatives, like the pashmina shawl, are being considered. History of Pashmina Shawls Pashmina shawls gained much prominence in the days of the Mughal Empire as objects of rank and nobility. Babur first established the practice of giving khilat – giving ‘robes of honour’ – in 1526 to members of his court for their devoted service, high achievements or as a mark of royal favour, made of Pashmina wool. Upon the complete conquest of Kashmir in 1568 by Akbar, a pair of pashmina shawls were an integral part of a khilat ceremony. Pashmina Pashmina is a fine type of cashmere wool. The wool comes from a number of different breeds of the cashmere goat; such as the changthangi or Kashmir pashmina goat from the Changthang Plateau in Tibet and part of the Ladakh region and few parts of Himachal Pradesh. -
“Al-Tally” Ascension Journey from an Egyptian Folk Art to International Fashion Trend
مجمة العمارة والفنون العدد العاشر “Al-tally” ascension journey from an Egyptian folk art to international fashion trend Dr. Noha Fawzy Abdel Wahab Lecturer at fashion department -The Higher Institute of Applied Arts Introduction: Tally is a netting fabric embroidered with metal. The embroidery is done by threading wide needles with flat strips of metal about 1/8” wide. The metal may be nickel silver, copper or brass. The netting is made of cotton or linen. The fabric is also called tulle-bi-telli. The patterns formed by this metal embroidery include geometric figures as well as plants, birds, people and camels. Tally has been made in the Asyut region of Upper Egypt since the late 19th century, although the concept of metal embroidery dates to ancient Egypt, as well as other areas of the Middle East, Asia, India and Europe. A very sheer fabric is shown in Ancient Egyptian tomb paintings. The fabric was first imported to the U.S. for the 1893 Chicago. The geometric motifs were well suited to the Art Deco style of the time. Tally is generally black, white or ecru. It is found most often in the form of a shawl, but also seen in small squares, large pieces used as bed canopies and even traditional Egyptian dresses. Tally shawls were made into garments by purchasers, particularly during the 1920s. ملخص البحث: التمي ىو نوع من انواع االتطريز عمى اقمشة منسوجة ويتم ىذا النوع من التطريز عن طريق لضم ابر عريضة بخيوط معدنية مسطحة بسمك 1/8" تصنع ىذه الخيوط من النيكل او الفضة او النحاس.واﻻقمشة المستخدمة في صناعة التمي تكون مصنوعة اما من القطن او الكتان. -
Animal Fiber Metrology
ANIMAL FIBER METROLOGY Chris Lupton Texas Agr iLife R esearc h The Texas A&M System San Angelo IRAQ AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION REVITALIZATION GROUP San Angelo, Texas October 21, 2009 Animal fiber program • Develop and evaluate improved ppgrocedures for measuring value- determining characteristics of animal fibers. • Collaborate in research ppjrojects that require fiber production and quality to be quantified. Animal fiber program • Project Leader: Chris Lupton • Research Associate: Faron Pfeiffer • Research Assistant: Sue Engdahl • Student Assistants: Eddie Swinney, Gary Henson, Kendra Franke (ASU) • (Graduate students, ASU and TAMU) • Plus administrative , secretarial , bookkeeping , and maintenance support from the unit and CS. Species we work with Muskox (qiviut), rabbit, dog, cattle, mice, et al. U. S. animal fiber testing labs • One commercial and 3 academic labs. • Our AgriLife Research lab is well equipped and staffed. • Consequently, there are plenty of opportunities for collaboration with AgriLife Research, USDA, ARS, and other scientists in academia on projects that have high national priority. Total sheep and lambs, 1908 to 2009 60000 1942, 56.2m 50000 40000 ands ss 30000 er, thou er, 2009, 5.75m in U.S. bb 0.87 m in Texas 20000 Num 10000 0 1908 1918 1928 1938 1948 1958 1968 1978 1988 1998 Year (January data) Number of operations with sheep 300000 250000 241,590 200000 150000 Number 100000 82,330 50000 0 1965 1970 1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 Year Sheep operations in Texas 25000 20000 19,500 15000 Number 10000 7000 5000 0 1965 1970 1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 Year National sheep and goat operations (farms) and trends 2008 data • Sheep 82,330. -
Spinning Alpaca: Fiber from Huacaya Alpaca to Suri Alpaca (And Beyond)
presents A Guide to Spinning Alpaca: Fiber from Huacaya Alpaca to Suri Alpaca (and beyond) ©F+W Media, Inc. ■ All rights reserved ■ F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use Spin.Off ■ spinningdaily.com ■ 1 oft, long, and available in a range of beautiful natural colors, alpaca can be a joy to spin. That is, if you know what makes it different from the sheep’s wool most spinners start with. It is Sa long fiber with no crimp, so it doesn’t stretch and bounce the way wool does. Sheep’s wool also contains a lot of lanolin (grease) and most spinners like to scour the wool to remove excess lanolin before they spin it. Alpaca doesn’t have the same grease content, so it can be spun raw (or unwashed) pretty easily, though it may contain a lot of dust or vegetable matter. Alpaca fiber also takes dye beautifully—you’ll find that the colors will be a little more muted than they would be on most sheep’s wool because the fiber is not lustrous. Because alpaca fiber doesn’t have crimp of wool, the yarn requires more twist to stay together as well as hold its shape over time. If you spin a softly spun, thick yarn, and then knit a heavy sweater, the garment is likely to grow over time as the fiber stretches. I hadn’t much experience spinning alpaca until I started volunteering at a school with a spinning program and two alpacas on the working farm that is part of the campus. -
MICROFIBER? Microfi Ber Is a Material Blended from Polyester and Polyamide (Nylon)
Microfi ber PADS, CLOTHS & MITTS CLEANING IS BELIEVING Cleaning is Believing. The Rubbermaid Microfi ber Cleaning System is built around the highest quality microfi ber, made from ultra-fi ne, non- abrasive fi bers. Rubbermaid’s products are designed to deliver superior cleaning performance while creating healthier, more appealing environments. Rubbermaid’s microfi ber pads and cloths include features and benefi ts that make cleaning faster, better, safer. THE RUBBERMAID ADVANTAGE ■ Advanced “hook-and-loop” backing makes pad-to-handle attachments secure ■ Durable pad construction withstands more than 300 launderings* ■ Color-coded pads help reduce cross- contamination by differentiating areas of use ■ Overlock-stitched and poly-bound edges retain pad shape over time and use ■ Dense microfi ber structure removes more dust, dirt and harmful bacteria than conventional cleaning products *Source: Stress Engineering, September 2003 Pad, Cloth & Mitt Features WET PADS SPECIALTY PADS HIGH- FINISH PADS PERFORMANCE This pad is WET PADS traditionally This twisted loop pad is a blend colored and optimally confi gured of microfi ber and polyester for strength and for a smooth, even application of fl oor ease of use. Edges are double fi nished… fi nish. The unique trapezoidal shape overlock-stitched then bound with polyester conforms to the frame and protects grosgrain piping for added durability. As baseboards, furniture and equipment, evidence, this construction has been proven to withstand over allowing faster, hassle-free application. 300 commercial launderings. Wet padsare suitable for routine The foam liner controls liquid release and mopping and capable of effi ciently and effectively removing dust, ensures good surface contact.