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Phd Thesis Eindhoven University of Technology, Eindhoven, the Netherlands Door CRAFTING SUSTAINABLE SMART TEXTILE SERVICES Kristi Kuusk Crafting sustainable smart textile services Kristi Kuusk Crafting sustainable smart textile services PROEFSCHRIFT ter verkrijging van de graad van doctor aan de A catalogue record is available from the Eindhoven University of Technology Library Technische Universiteit Eindhoven, op gezag van ISBN 978-90-386-4020-4 de rector magnificus prof.dr.ir. F.P.T. Baaijens, voor een commissie aangewezen door het College voor Promoties, in het openbaar te verdedigen op Title Crafting sustainable smart textile services donderdag 18 februari 2016 om 14:00 uur ISBN 978-90-386-4020-4 Graphic design Kerstin Zabransky Cover Kerstin Zabransky Copy edits Terry Lavender PhD thesis Eindhoven University of Technology, Eindhoven, the Netherlands door Copyright © 2016 Kristi Kuusk Kristi Kuusk All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronically or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and geboren te Pärnu, Estland retrieval system without written permission of the author. Dit proefschrift is goedgekeurd door de promotoren en de samenstelling van de promotie- commissie is als volgt: voorzitter: prof.dr.ir. A.C. Brombacher 1e promotor: prof.dr. R. Wakkary copromotor(en): dr.ir. S.A.G. Wensveen dr. O. Tomico Plasencia leden: prof.dr. L.-L. Chen prof.dr. N. Nimkulrat (Estonian Academy of Arts) ir. K. van Os (Philips Research) dr. K. Niinimäki (Aalto University, School of Arts, Design and Architecture) Het onderzoek of ontwerp dat in dit proefschrift wordt beschreven is uitgevoerd in overeenstemming met de TU/e Gedragscode Wetenschapsbeoefening. CONTENTS ACKNowLEDGEMENTS 8 4.5 Craft qualities in Textales 136 4.5.1 Methods for collecting and analysing data 136 1 INTRODUCTION 13 4.5.2 Results from the craft qualities review 136 1.1 The beginning 13 4.5.3 Second version of the craft qualities explained through the Textales Dream 1.2 Culture & craftsmanship 14 Bear and Sunny Sunday editions 137 1.3 Towards industrially produced textiles 17 4.6 Craft qualities meaning for smart textiles 151 1.4 Fashion & clothing 18 1.5 Approaches to sustainability 19 5 SUSTAINABILITY QUALITIES 155 1.6 Towards sustainable fashion 21 5.1 Background 155 1.7 Services for clothing 22 5.1.1 Sustainability challenges 155 1.8 Smart textiles evolution & examples 22 5.1.2 The study in general 157 1.8.1 Three levels of integration in smart textiles 24 5.2 Sustainability qualities in Bedtime Stories, Vibe-ing, CHACUN(E) 158 1.8.2 From conceptual artistic work to commercial products 24 5.2.1 Methods for collecting and handling data 158 1.9 Craft and sustainability qualities in smart textile services 27 5.2.2 Results from the sustainability qualities interview 159 5.2.3 Sustainability qualities in separated smart textiles: Bedtime Stories Little Red 2 THE PORTFOLIO 33 Riding Hood 162 2.1 Digital Stories on Textile 37 5.2.4 Sustainability qualities in integrated smart textiles: Vibe-ing 163 2.1.1 QR-coded Embroidery 39 5.2.5 Sustainability qualities in combined smart textiles: CHACUN(E) 164 2.1.2 Bedtime Stories 48 5.2.6 Conclusion from the sustainability qualities interviews 165 2.1.3 Textales 57 5.3 The designer-researcher’s redefined understanding of sustainability qualities 165 2.2 Body Sensing and Actuating Networks 67 5.3.1 First version of the sustainability qualities 166 2.2.1 Felt Ball 69 5.4 Redesign of Digital Stories on Textile 170 2.2.2 Tender 71 5.4.1 Applying the first version of sustainability qualities 170 2.2.3 Vibration Therapy 74 5.5 Sustainability qualities in Textales 170 2.3 Thermocraft 81 5.5.1 Methods for collecting and handling data 171 2.3.1 CHACUN(E): Thermosensitive yarns 83 5.5.2 Results from the sustainability qualities review 174 2.3.2 YB-ML: Thermosensitive conductive yarns 86 5.5.3 Second version of the sustainability qualities explained through the Textales 2.3.3 Butterfly Lace: sensing and actuating thermosensitive multicolour yarns 89 Dream Bear and Sunny Sunday editions 174 5.6 Sustainability qualities meaning for smart textiles 190 3 DESIGNING WITH CRAFT INSPIRED SMART TEXTILES 95 3.1 Process of developing craft and sustainability qualities 95 6 TowARDS THE FUTURE OF CRAFTED SUSTAINABLE 3.1.1 Research through Design approach 96 SMART TEXTILE SERVICES 195 3.1.2 Background of me as the designer-researcher 97 6.1 Craft and sustainability qualities for products and services 195 3.2 Between the material and the world 97 6.1.1 Material-related qualities in products 197 3.2.1 Material 100 6.1.2 Meaning and stories related qualities in services 199 3.2.2 Me 103 6.1.3 Time-related qualities in services 202 3.2.3 Community 107 6.1.4 Connections-related qualities in services 204 3.2.4 Society 109 6.2 Impact 207 6.2.1 Applying the craft and sustainability qualities 207 115 4 CRAFT QUALITIES 6.2.2 Towards commercialisation 209 4.1 Background of the traditional crafts 115 6.2.3 Future of the design projects 218 4.1.1 Tacit meaning in crafts 115 6.2.4 Crafts in the modern world? 219 4.1.2 Estonian crafts & Muhu skirt 117 6.2.5 What did the research bring to the society? 220 4.1.3 The study in general 119 4.2 Craft qualities in Muhu skirt, QR-coded Embroidery and Bedtime Stories 120 227 4.2.1 Methods for collecting and handling data 120 BIBLIOGRAPHY 4.2.2 Results from the craft qualities interview 121 234 4.2.3 Craft qualities in traditional crafts: Muhu skirt 124 APPENDICES Appendix 1: Presentations 234 4.2.4 Craft qualities in smart textiles: QR-coded Embroidery 125 Appendix 2: Exhibitions 235 4.2.5 Craft qualities in smart textiles: Bedtime Stories 127 4.2.6 Craft qualities through the design process 128 238 4.3 The designer-researcher’s redefined understanding of craft qualities 129 SUMMARY 4.3.1 First version of the craft qualities 130 240 4.4 Redesign of Digital Stories on Textile 134 PUBLICATIONS RELATED TO THIS RESEARCH 4.4.1 Applying the first version of craft qualities 134 CURRICULUM VITAE 242 AckNowLEDGEMENTS his thesis is not the result of an individual journey. It is a collection of shared efforts and Marjan, Jussi, Angelina, Roos, Gyula, Lucas, Sabine, Gordon, Ioana, Michal, Mili, Mukesh. experiences. I would like to express my gratitude to the people without whom this work Thank you, Christine, for playing with Bedtime Stories Little Red Riding Hood edition with T would not be in your hands. your family on the photos. To the committee members: thank you for the helpful questions and comments to improve I would like to thank the inspiring colleagues in DQI, Wearable Senses (WS), and the work. Your thoughtful feedback is greatly appreciated. elsewhere making my days at the university enjoyable. Martijn – the countless discussions and brainstorms we had while co-working, driving, rushing, arranging events, relaxing, attending Stephan, I’d like to thank you for making the Creative Industries Scientific Program (CRISP) conferences, workshops, company visits etc., were essential to keep going. It was a pleasure to Smart Textile Services project possible and believing that I could contribute to it. When we first work side by side with someone as knowledgeable, kind, and sincere as you. Jesus, thanks for all started off with you, Geert Langereis and Kees Overbeeke, I really had no idea what I was the shared swims, lunches and crazy thoughts about life. Thanks for keeping the WS spirits up getting into. You and Geert helped me to start trusting the inner voice – intuition, get guided by Carl, Michel, Brandon, Troy, Pauline, Marina, Simone, Maarten, Paola, Lilian & the WS stu- it, and let the research direction be inspired by it. Thank you for always showing me the value of dents with all your inspiring projects and questions. Rafaela, obrigada por manter os meus níveis personal experiences, and for being there from the start to the end. de vitamina com seus deliciosos sucos frescos. Oscar, thanks for your irreplaceable energetic and passionate daily guidance for the PhD pro- Thanks for sharing your thoughts and making me feel home during my visiting semester in ject. You really stretched and redefined my limits.Y our prompt comments puzzled and clarified, Aalto School of Arts and Design the colleagues at NODUS Sustainable Design Research faded and sharpened my understanding and thinking continuously. You opened many doors that group. I would have never dared to knock and made me learn a lot about myself. Thank you, Kerstin, for making this dissertation into a beautiful book. Terry, thanks for Ron, I greatly appreciate your kind support, encouragement, and focus on guiding the PhD taking care of the grammar and language of this thesis. work towards finalising the writing.Y our clear vision and result-oriented way of working brought us to the goal! Thanks for joining us in such a critical moment. I am grateful for the warm connections with friends with whom our journeys crossed in the Netherlands. Aida – thanks for introducing me to the crochet nights! Brenda, Guille, Hanne, This thesis would not be possible without the support and effort ofcraft and sustainability Dominika, Jesus, Mymza, Eric, Karina, John, Rubina, Naza, Alexey, Carolina, Daniel, Gordon, experts sharing their thoughts on my projects. Thanks for taking the time and enriching my Ioana, Francisco, Ale, Elton, and Leanne – thanks for being part of the Sunny Sunday story, for understanding with your knowledge Katrin, Marit, Mirje, Nithikul, Tuulia, Alastair, Andreas, being my family in Eindhoven! Alvise, grazie per essere la mia casa.
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